To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/26/96 07:11:42 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #280


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 26 August 1996       Volume 01 : Number 280


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 18:59:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 8-track 

Ok, I will guy it from someone else.....Thanks
 

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@EMUVAX.EMICH.EDU
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 19:02:54 -0300
Subject: factory Assembly information needed

Were the heater bypass hose on the 70 cutlass painted the engin color?

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 22:12:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Fingers Crossed/bummer

> This morning there is one my wife
> said we can go look at. 1966 Olds 442. fellow says it is a New Mexico
> car. He wants $3500 for it. Says he also has a 1967 GTO 4sp from Florida.

Well the 442 was not all i desired. It is a nice car but the interior is all 
removed 
except for the bucket seats. the door and rear seat panels are in the trunk (he 
says all 
are there). all the chrome was removed, has all that also(?). New exhaust. The 
engine is 
not the orginal one but hes\ says it is one year off but the 10:1 compression 
that 
belongs in there. Couldn't get any numbers though. If he had left it togeather 
I might 
have talked wife into buying it but with headliner out and all I can see 2,000 
more 
dollars putting the paint and interior right. He also has some other nice cars 
but they 
have all been disasembled in some way. He also has a 68 f85 with the 320 hp 330 
in it. 
Has bunch of other vetts and stuff also. A little high priced for them i think. 
Any 
Ideas what a 66 4432 with a 67 engine in it might be worth??

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 19:09:58 -0300
Subject: HEIs and Trans Fluid 

The HEI is pretty easy to wire up.  They are even marked as to the 12V hookup
("BAT" I think) and "tach" are most commonly of interest.

The wiring problem is that points cars only start with 12V.  As soon as you
release the key the circuit changes to a resistor wire which drops the
voltage to reduce points wear.  To like about 9 volts.  The HEI _needs_ 12
volts at all times.  Either change the resistor wire or hook it up to a
switched 12V source.  The resistor wire starts at the body connector on your
firewall.  Just look at a factory wiring diagram, it will show which one and
what color.  Either cut and splice a nonresistor wire or, if you have a junk
yard harness (I have at least 2 to play with) just pop the connector out of
the block and pop in a non-resistance wire from the donor harness. Now both
the "start" and "run" key positions will have 12V. And this way you can
switch back to points because the resistor wire is still there.

The trans fluid thing goes something like this.  GM Dexron uses additives
that allow the trans clutches to "slip" a little.  This allows the trans to
shift more smoothly. The "other" guys build their transmissions a little
differently and their trans fluid doesn't contain as much.  Just by
completely changing your trans fluid to the "other" stuff will firm the
shifts a bit.  B&M and other brand names are usually the same stuff.  Their
market share is probably not large enough to have a major refinery make
something special for them.  The non-DEXRON fluid is what you want.  I could
be wrong on that too.  I use F@#d stuff in mine. 

Chris Urban and others on this list may have some ideas on this as well.

There should be no difference in life of the trans.  As noted a month or so
ago when the discussion on shift kits was common, an automatic transmission
will actually live longer with firm shifts.  If the clutch plates and
frictions can't slip they can't burn out either.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs   (407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 19:56:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass Radio options

Bill,
I don't know when they started offering the am/fm mono, but my 65 had one.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: "Wright, Thomas CDT " <x02311@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 20:22:46 -0300
Subject: RE: 70 cutlass Radio options

Yea, my 66 had the AM/FM mono stereo until I replaced it with a much
better one.

Tom

>----------
>From: 	mefco@sprynet.com[SMTP:mefco@sprynet.com]
>Sent: 	Sunday, August 25, 1996 6:56 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject: 	Re: 70 cutlass Radio options
>
>Bill,
>I don't know when they started offering the am/fm mono, but my 65 had
>one.
>
>Art Fuller
>
>

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 21:32:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Headliner removal help

suggestion, if you're not sure...  go to a boneyard and practice on some of
their vehicles.  you may be able to get extra parts and make your own tool for
your particular application.

- --joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 21:33:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!!

who's peg?  how old is she? and is she really available?

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 20:44:53 -0300
Subject: Wanted: 81-87 Cutlass Trunk Release Mount

I needa part.

What I'm looking for is the L-bracket mount, inside the glovebox, of a 1981-87
Cultass Coupe.  The button for the inside trunk release fits in the hole in the
front.  I got everything else for the trunk release but that.  It is shaped like
this:

Side View		Front

- ------		--------
      |		|  /\  |
      |		\_\/_/

Anybody got one?  Reply to me to keep the bandwith down.  Thanks

 ---  
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  President - Capitol City Rockets, OCA
| | |  76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 17:54:22 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Rear end Was: The Rockit's back  

     I was a bit concerned about this with my H/O when I first bought it, 
     but it hasn't really been a problem.  I have A/C and 3.73 gears, but I 
     also have an overdrive (making my 3.73's act like about 2.50's).  I 
     don't know whether I have different pullies than a standard Olds, but 
     my A/C doesn't get significantly cold until I can sustain 30-40mph for 
     a few minutes, so maybe it does.
     
     Hmm...  Did I have a point to make?  Guess not.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear end Was: The Rockit's back 
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/23/96 8:35 AM


>What would you not use 3.42 or higher with A/C?? 
     
I guess the logic is that the RPMs would be too high for the compressor 
over an extended period of time. Not the compressor couldn't physically 
stand it, but perhaps you get weirdness in the flow of Freon under those 
conditions. I haven't heard of this as a specific problem; sounds more 
like a precautionary move, IMHO.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 17:54:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter 

     Not 100% Olds related, but I can say that my $15 Radio Shack digital 
     multi-meter I bought about 8 years ago was the best tool I ever spent 
     $15 on.  It's received a lot of use.  Testing battery voltage is the 
     least of it.  You can also use the digital voltmeter to adjust your 
     TPS or read the O2 sensor if you have a later-model Olds.
     
     The continuity tester (that beeps when a circuit is complete) is very 
     handy when trying to trace wiring or see if a circuit is broken.  You 
     can use this to test switches, relays, light bulbs, dozens of uses!
     
     The ohmmeter is handy too.  Checking spark plug wires, coils, looking 
     for ground loops, finding corroded connections. . .
     
     I even used the diode tester once when trying to diagnose a blown 
     diode on my car alarm installation.
     
     Mine has an AC mode too that I've used a few times when doing wiring 
     on my house.
     
     I kinda wish it had an ammeter too, I've needed one a few times.  So 
     far I've been able to work around that though (there's more than one 
     way to skin a cat).
     
     You can use it as just a tester to find what's 12v and what's not, but 
     a test light is easier to use and easier to read for that purpose.  I 
     have a really cool 12v tester I got for Christmas last year, it 
     doesn't have a ground clip!  You hold it in your hand and touch your 
     other hand (or any other body part) to a ground and then start poking 
     around with the probe.  An LED flashes and it beeps when you hit 12v.  
     Really slick!  Sounds kinda flakey but take my word for it, it's 100% 
     reliable.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Mult-Meter
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/23/96 7:50 AM


I purchased a ?Multi-Meter? tester to test the 
voltage of my battery but apparently there are many 
(hundreds?) of other uses for this thing.  What 
other uses do you have for yours (be nice now!)?
     
************************************************** 
SG Hartfelder
Edmonton, AB  CANADA
     

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 17:54:33 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 455 headers and Carb recalibration 

     I'm just curious, how did they get a 455 Big Block for a '77 motorhome 
     when the last year for the BB was '76?  Old stock?  Or was there a 
     limited run of later year blocks for these limited applications?
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: 455 headers and Carb recalibration
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/24/96 8:32 AM


At 02:50 PM 8/24/96 -0300, you wrote:
     
>Not really, there are quite a few of them.  GM used the Toro subchassis, 
>motor, and drivetrain in the big motorhome.
     
Cool, I never knew they did that.
     

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 17:54:29 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Mult-Meter 

     Most all of the digital multi-meters that I've seen (mine included) 
     are auto-ranging and auto overload protected.  You're not supposed to 
     be able to damage them no matter how you hook it up.
     
     The only drawback to the digital meter is that the digital display 
     sometimes is hard to read with fluctuating voltages.  If the voltage 
     is changing faster than the display does, you'll just get a bunch of 
     numbers bouncing around in a general range.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/23/96 4:05 PM


On Fri, 23 Aug 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:
> You betcha!  Be careful about measuring amperage in general with a 
> multimeter.  Many have a rather limited scale, often in the MILLIamp 
> range.  Don't try to measure amperage that could be well in excess of the 
> highest range of the meter.
     
I can attest to this from painful experience... in a period of brain-fade 
when trying to diagnose my bad regulator a few months back I did exactly 
this. Fortunately all it did was fry the fuse in the multimeter, not the 
meter itself. Luckily, RS had thoughtfully included a spare with the 
meter so I was back in business again. At least I won't do *that* again 
now...  
     
Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
     
     
     

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 17:54:26 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Cam Stuff 

     $320 can to $5 US?  Now _that's_ an exchange rate!
     
     Does it take any machine work to install these on an Olds?  Can they 
     be put on a completed engine without pulling the heads or having to 
     get new pushrods?
     
     TIA!
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Cam Stuff
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/23/96 9:50 AM


Installation takes about 1.5 hours and couldn't be easier.Yes I think = 
its worth it because a) They are stronger b) less friction c) converts = 
Olds valavetrain to adjustable d) cost less than real roller rockers = 
e)they are lighter as they eliminate the bridge in conventional rockers. = 
There is a place here in Canada called Canadain High Performance, they = 
are on the west coast they sell a complete kit for the Olds = 
(rockers,pushrods, studs, guide plates, for around $320 can. Convert = 
that to US that should be about $5. If you'd like the number let me = 
know.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 02:03:03 -0300
Subject: Radio Options 

My 66 has a real good one AM/FM mono with a reverb and cool factory switch!
Don't know if this is rare but it sure is fun to turn on/off when announcers
are speaking. Gives people a sense of history.
cf
/

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 02:44:17 -0300
Subject: Smog Facade 

Warning Detailed (yeah, long) Post

Greg K. and I have been going back and forth on a smogger Toro currently
being disemboweled in a selfserve yard in San Jose. He asked how to pull
the air injection system in a recent note, I thought better to post this 
and spread the knowledge.

Background:
K-50 (exh. port air injection) and the PCV system were put on CA 1966 olds
motors to run 'em cleaner. By injecting fresh air into the exhaust the mix
was supposed to burn longer, therefore cleaner. Chemical engineers may know,
I always thought it was cleaner the the exhaust since it blew fresh air into
it. PCV recirculates crankcase gases drawn through the valve covers into
the carb which then get burned up contributing to a cleaner planet.

Why to Defeat the System:
I pulled my air injection system because it made my car backfire like a pig
on deceleration, even after I replaced the gulp valve, etc., etc. For 9 years
now the motor runs smoother, happier and quieter, if less clean. (some guilt
here, but not much seeing others with really smoggy motors of much more recent
vintage).  Better gas mileage and simpler intake system too.

To pull the K-50 while retaining back swap ability:
1) Loosen the retaining nuts/bolts on the air pump and take the belt off. Make
sure no other accessories are being run off this belt on your car.
2) Remove the eight exhaust port injectors with an open end (7/16?) wrench. Note
that these injectors have pipe fitting threads which I believe are different 
than auto threads. If in doubt measure. You can obtain plugs with Allen wrench 
heads which are about 1/2 in long and threaded correctly to plug the ports. 
Check a good parts store or hardware store. Take the injector with you to match 
the threads. Don't get plugs that are too long, otherwise you might just
interfere with a valve. At the very least you'll upset exh. airflow.
Be careful not to strip the hollow nuts which screw into the heads! Clean the
nut threads and tap the heads!
3) There are at least two large vacuum fittings on the intake manifold which 
will need to be plugged. They're just like regular vac. fittings, just bigger. 
They're located behind the Qjet on the #7 or #8 runners. I'd suggest plugging 
the fittings if they're sealed o.k. into the manifold. Or seal at the manifold  
with a metal plug teflon coated.  You could connect them to each other too.
4) There is another small vacuum line which I think runs from the manifold to 
the gulp valve (looks kinda like a top hat on the passenger side) remove and 
plug the source.  Leave all hoses, vacuum lines etc. on the system so you 
remember where they go.
5) Either leave on or take off the air pump, but you might pull the hoses for 
sanitary-ness. You'll be able to simplify the top end of the motor massively.
If you take 'em off while leaving the pump in place, plug the pump intake and 
outlets with soemthing to keep dirt out. 

I took my pump off and store the whole system as a complete unit in my
garage. Then every 2 years, I do the smog facade dance with the state of CA.

Quick & Dirty:
1) Take the belt off the pump
2) Pull the air injection hoses off their connection to the injector manifolds
3) Cap the manifolds with rubber cap/sparkplug sealed with a hose clamp

Tips:
1) Keep it all together if you pull it off, as close to actual installed setup
as you can store. That way if you ever sell or reinstall, you'll be able to
piece things back together.
2) Tap the injector port threads before you plug 'em. Carbon buildup here gets
serious
3) Keep the pump clean, if it seizes, hard to replace. Manual says clean with
Kerosene. I never have and it works fine.
4) Use Q&D method for testing only, eventually exh. pressure will blow through
the injector manifold connection to the hoses and create an exh. leak.

When I pulled mine, I relocated my alternator to the passenger side, more 
symmetry with the steering pump on left and alt. on right. Overall this is a 
cool fix, but it will cost you 3-5 hours in the take off and more in the 
reassembly.

Just contributing to the delinquency of the rest of you. Apologies to the state
of CA which changed the smog law the year *after* I legally rebuilt this motor
without smog on it. I had to chase down and retrofit my 98 or face then $500
bill, now changed to unlimited. Thanks


Chris Fair

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 02:42:31 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI's, points conversions 

At 11:43 PM 8/24/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Somebody wrote:
> >>Has anybody tried those point replacement thingys
>
>Yes, I believe Dr. Bob Barry PhD. held a discussion regarding this a month
or so ago.
>
>Greg Kalkhoff

Nope, not me, Sparkster, but someone else with a Toro, though (I can't even
keep track of us!). It was a Pertronix (sp?) Ignitor (sp? again), that fit
inside the stock distributor cap, and used the stock coil and wires. Cost
about $70.

I thought of retrofitting an HEI to my '69 Toro, but the air cleaner nearly
touches the distributor cap now, and I don't relish the thought of finding a
post-'74 Toro low-profile air cleaner unit, *and* buying new wires, hooking
up a new distributor harness, etc.

So, even if the junkyard HEI is $30, I'd spend well over $40 refurbishing
the coil, cap and rotor, _and_ adding 8mm wires, and hooking into the stock
wiring. Looks like the Pertronix would be the best bet for me, but if you
are starting from scratch (as I will be on my SX), then the junkyard HEI
would be the way to go.

And cut out that doctor stuff! ;) I get enough of that from my students... I
come here to forget about that!

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 02:42:27 -0300
Subject: RE: New Recruit 

At 03:35 PM 8/24/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Bill, I was wrong it does't have an EGR valve on the manifold, its got a
>P.C.V., (positive crankcase ventilation), valve on it.  What I want is a
>high perf. manifold that will have the proper holes for my P.C.V.  If
>you have any ideas email me.
>Tom
>P.S.  I am going to school at the United States Military Academy here in
>NY while my dad is babying the Olds back home.  Thats the reason I think
>it has the PCV valve.

If it is just a PCV valve, then the fitting will be found on the carburetor,
not the intake manifold (even my Holley 3310 750cfm carb has the pcv fitting). 

You can use any Olds big-block intake, though the '70-'72 4-bbl intakes will
be the most desireable, with an integral choke coil on the carb (no choke
stove on the intake; though I've got my '69 working pretty well) and without
the EGR (which you don't need or want). 

Of course, there is also the Edelbrock Olds 455 Performer aluminum intake
for around $195 from Summit, if you can't find one in the parts yard.

I switched my '70 SX from an original 2-bbl to a factory 4-bbl (got the iron
manifold and carb for $35; but that was back in '83, not as many around
today), and that made a *world* of difference!

Enjoy!

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 02:42:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Couple of things 

At 12:34 AM 8/25/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Wife and I went for ice cream tonight in our 96 Cutlass Supreme. Actualy it
is her car, 
[snip]
>Second - I know some of you will scream at me for bringing this up again
but in my quest 
>to  build the 250 - 275 hp 350 for low budget I came across a 70 Cutlass
wagon with a 
>350 2brl duel exhaust. My book says this is a 9-1 compression engine
producing 250 hp. I 
>bought it for $50 complete with starter and alternator. It has #6 heads on
it. They look 
>as if they had been off sometime in the past as they are slightly cleaner
tham the 
>block. Question is what are #6 heads. I didn't bother to try and start it.
I will do a 

The #6 heads are stock for a 1970 350; they are small-chamber, good-flowing
sb heads w/o hardened exhaust seats. They are part of the desireable 5-6-7
family of heads (and we all know that the 1972 7a heads are most desireable,
with the small-chambers *and* hardened exhaust seats). You only really need
to install hardened exhaust seats if you are doing major head work anyway;
if the compression test comes out good and even, and she has good oil
pressure, then just change the gaskets & oil pump, and drop her in as-is!

Excellent basis for a mild street motor; with a slightly hotter cam and a
4-bbl, you'd have your goal of 275hp (possibly even 300hp) with no problem.
Just watch out for major sludge buildup. If it is really gunked-up, you
might want to disassemble it all, have everything hot-tanked, then just go
for new gaskets, rings and bearings (if you are on a real budget, and
assemble it yourself, you might get away with it for under $500).

>Third - this cutlass wagon has an extreamly good nose on it if anyone is
interested. The 
>car has a valid NH inspection sticker thru Dec 96. Something else this car
has that I 
>haven't seen before is a cluster of gages in the right side circle of the
instrument 
>cluster. It has a Oil Amp and Water temp arranged in a triangle fashion
within the 
>circle. The car also has very little rust on it which is unusual for NH. If
anyone is 
>interested in any parts let me know and I will hook you up with the yard.
He also has 
>some Toros(can't imagine why) and a bunch of 79 - 87 cutlass's.

Hey, I'd actually make a trip up there for a right-front fender and that
gauge package; what's the number of the place? Or if you pick up something
of interest, I've got a EGR iron 4-bbl for trading that would work in your
car (if emissions is important to you, and you don't want to spring the $170
for an Edelbrock Performer Olds 350 intake).

And what year Toros do they have? Maybe I could change out the green
interior on mine for something less repulsive...

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 03:18:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Smog Facade

- ----------
> From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
 .... 

> When I pulled mine, I relocated my alternator to the passenger side, more

> symmetry with the steering pump on left and alt. on right. Overall this
is a 
> cool fix, but it will cost you 3-5 hours in the take off and more in the 
> reassembly.

Good advice, Chris.  I was advised by an rad/AC mechanic around here to do
this to ensure a balance of "pull" on the water pump.  In my case I had
removed the belt from my non-functioning (or desired) AC (74 Ninety-Eight).
 This left both alt. and PS pump on the driver's side.  The mechanic said
that he'd seen lots of water pump bearings destroyed from an uneven balance
of belt-driven accessories.  So I removed the AC compressor altogether
(along with most of the other components) and moved the alt. to the
passenger's side as it is in a 455 without AC.  I  had to go to a wreckers
to get the different mounting brackets for the passenger's side alternator
.. Looks better, too ... 

Graham Stewart
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca
 

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 07:21:18 -0300
Subject: OAI breather opened up 

Well I hope somebody can help me.  I am looking for a 
OAI breather top missing the door or has been cut up
on top.  I need this for experimentation in racing.
Me and my buddys are trying to prove that ram air
can add up to a tenth in the quarter mile.  So I need
to find one to prove this.  So if anybody can give me
any leads or just has one and is disappointed because
somebody hacked up a original or repo lid please E-MAIL
me or call me.  I thankyou all ahead of time for your help
in this matter.


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket
313 336 8135 or w machines@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 07:17:57 -0300
Subject: Head attaching apparati

Anyone out there have a set of Olds 455 head bolts or studs they want to 
part with? maybe a set you bought and never ended up using?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:04:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 455 headers and Carb recalibration

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>  I'm just curious, how did they get a 455 Big Block for a '77 motorhome
>  when the last year for the BB was '76?  Old stock?  Or was there a
>  limited run of later year blocks for these limited applications?

Dunno.  Maybe they went to small blocks or adapted some other corporate 
motor to the FWD assembly.

The 66 Toro and Mike

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:00:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mult-Meter

Tom Lentz wrote:

>   Most all of the digital multi-meters that I've seen (mine included)
>   are auto-ranging and auto overload protected.  You're not supposed 
>   to be able to damage them no matter how you hook it up.     
True.  I should have said analog meter in my original post.  Digitals, 
as you correctly point out, tend to be more forgiving.

>   The only drawback to the digital meter is that the digital display
>   sometimes is hard to read with fluctuating voltages.  If the voltage
>   is changing faster than the display does, you'll just get a bunch of
>   numbers bouncing around in a general range.

Yup.  If you intend to use the meter for reading computer codes (which 
are a series of pulses) you may want an analog rather than a digital.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:02:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Vintage Police Cars 

I was under the impression that Olds police cars were around before then.  
Does anyone know differently?
          
          Nick,
          
          Remember that the 442 package was derived from the B-09 
          Police Package...leading to those nine extremely rare 
          four-door 1964 442s (not to be confused with the four-door, 
          three barrel Toros :)).
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 19:14:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

Robert Whitaker wrote:
> Fernando,
> 
> I have a Turbo 400 and am running 3.23:1 gears (stock for an A/C 69 Hurst
> Olds).  The heads had stainless steel valves put in, a three angle valve
> cut, and hardened seats.  No porting or polishing.  I haven't been through a
> 1/4 mile yet - I'm anxious to see how it does.
> 

Robert when you do let us know. Very interested in knowing what all our efforts 
amounts to .

- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:14:30 -0300
Subject: Headers for 67 Cutlass 

Does anyone know if headers are available anywhere for the 330/350 in a 67
Cutlass. I have only been able to find them for a 400. Are the 400 exhaust
ports the same as a small block? I've gotten conflicting reports on this. It
seems to me that the 400 is a big block so the exhaust port positioning
would be different than on the small block, any ideas?

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:35:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Emblem Resto

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> Steady hand and a wiping rag help a lot on this type of work, but it's 
> real rewarding.

For those with a less steady hand, you can buy plastic sheets at any art 
supply houses called "brisket".  It's kind of a cross between clear 
plastic and a post-it pad.  Lay it over the area you want to paint then 
you can trim around the area with and exacto knife creating a mask.  
After painting the brisket pulls right off.

Does this count as a Resto Tip?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:30:38 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI's, points conversions

BobH592058@aol.com wrote:

> A fellow I knew converted to the Mallory system some years back.  These 
> use, I think, a light emitting diode (LED).  The thing failed three 
> times and he trashed it.  Might be better now but a true magnet/coil 
> setup is more reliable almost by definition.  Right Mike?

Prolly so.  LEDs have a pretty long life expectancy -- like 100 years.
Sound like Mallory may have had a design problem.  But I'd agree that 
it's hard to beat mag/coil for reliability.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:42:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Headers for 67 Cutlass 

Does anyone know if headers are available anywhere for the 330/350 in a 67 
Cutlass. I have only been able to find them for a 400. Are the 400 exhaust 
ports the same as a small block? I've gotten conflicting reports on this. It 
seems to me that the 400 is a big block so the exhaust port positioning 
would be different than on the small block, any ideas?
          
          Dave,
          
          The big block headers will physically bolt up to the small 
          block, but since the big block is taller and wider the 
          headers will likely not fit in the chassis properly (I would 
          expect they would hit the crossmember and the oil pan).  I 
          was always under the impression that the 64-67 and 68-72 
          chassis design was sufficiently similar that any given set 
          of headers would fit both, but my only small block header 
          experience was with a 68 (and the Heddman Headers fit 
          poorly, at that).  Since then all my Olds cars have been big 
          blocks.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          
          

------------------------------

From: <eekstrom@coris.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:43:51 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Junkyard HEI and condenser questions

     I had the same symptoms.  The result of worn distributor bearings.  
     After replacing the distributor, it ran like a top.  I noticed there 
     was significant side play in the old distributor versus the new one.
        
                Edward Ekstrom
                '72 Cutlass ragtop  
     
Art wrote:
>I had a 70 Ch**y pick up truck that would run wonderful everytime I tuned it. 
>Then, in a short period of time it ran lousy. Tune it up, great, then ran 
>lousy again in a short time. Finally, I put a new distributor in it and never 
>again had the problem. 
     
     

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:45:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Headliner removal help 

>I have looked everywhere except my headliner for my build sheet, so I 
>have a hunch it is there. [...] This
>headliner in my 442 is in way too good shape to mess up.

I kind of doubt you're going to find it there and it _would_ be a shame
to mess it up. I can't give you any official reason why not, but I think
there was general agreement here that the build sheet was stuck in a place
still accessible near the end of the assembly line, after they'd finished
all the steps where they might need to check the sheet for something or 
other. The headliner was one of the first items to go in, not the last.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:53:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

>No, this is a factory lamp.  The lamp up in the lid by the lock cylinder is
>what is found in more recent year vehicles.  Come to think of it, I think it
>was '69 Catalina that contributed it's lamp to my worthy cause.  That's the
>only part I could confiscate before my dealership wholesaled it.

Okay, let me backtrack a little on that. Maybe it was a dealer-installed
option, probably a lot quicker to put in than the deck lid type, which
required you to run a wiring harness through the frame of the lid (if
you've never had to do that, lucky you), down the left side hinge and 
along the trunk floor to the rear harness connector, along with a bunch
of assorted clips and wiring loom, especially around the arm of the trunk
lid (if you have a couple of holes punched in the inboard side of the
trunk lid arm, that's where the harness retainer clips go).

For Pontiac, at least, the '72 LeMans we owned had the deck lid prepunched
for the overhead light, not the hinge design, and I was able to retrofit
the deck lid light in about an hour.

Just for yucks, folks, the next time you're opening your trunk, tell us
whether there's a deck lid light opening prepunched (if so, it'll have a
little screw hole next to the big opening) just to the left of the latch,
and what year car you have.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: <eekstrom@coris.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:03:20 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: 455 headers and Carb recalibration

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>  I'm just curious, how did they get a 455 Big Block for a '77 motorhome 
>  when the last year for the BB was '76?  Old stock?  Or was there a
>  limited run of later year blocks for these limited applications?
     
     I'm not sure either.  This is either the last or second to the last 
     year for the GMC motorhome (at least under this configuration).  It is 
     definitely a big block front wheel drive olds.  One header is already 
     on.  The other will be soon.  I have not checked the engine for 
     markings to determine a year.  But we've always assumed it would have 
     been a '77 engine.
     
     Any one ever heard of having to recalibrate the carburetor after 
     adding headers? 
     
                        Edward Ekstrom
                        '72 Cutlass ragtop
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:57:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level 

>In the muffler box is a sticker to place on the bottom of the
>muffler that says "The Terminator, The bad boy of mufflers...Bite Me!" So
>now when I take the car in for repairs the repair men will be insulted
>everytime they look at my muffler:) 

...or if you've managed to flip the car on its roof, the tow truck guys
will have something to keep them amused...  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:01:28 -0300
Subject: Seat Recovering Info Here 

I've lost the original posting on this subject, but someone had been
interested in any useful tips on recovering seats. I've dug out my
Cars & Parts issues on recovering GM A-body front buckets, and these
two articles (they seem to want to turn everything into a multi-part
series; even repainting rocker covers, for heaven's sake) would most
likely be useful reading. There's quite a few pages (maybe a dozen
at least) but if anyone's interested, I'd be willing to try and fax
them out to you. Let me know.

P.S. Totally off the subject... got a Check Engine light on the way
to work this morning that turns out to be a 13 and a 44. Anyone got
a chart handy who could tell me what I'm going to find when I look
these codes up this evening?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 06:15:33 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI's, points conversions

> > >>Has anybody tried those point replacement thingys
> >

> 
> Nope, not me, Sparkster, but someone else with a Toro, though (I can't even
> keep track of us!). It was a Pertronix (sp?) Ignitor (sp? again), that fit
> inside the stock distributor cap, and used the stock coil and wires. Cost
> about $70.
> 
> I thought of retrofitting an HEI to my '69 Toro, but the air cleaner nearly
> touches the distributor cap now, and I don't relish the thought of finding a
> post-'74 Toro low-profile air cleaner unit, *and* buying new wires, hooking
> up a new distributor harness, etc.
> 
> So, even if the junkyard HEI is $30, I'd spend well over $40 refurbishing
> the coil, cap and rotor, _and_ adding 8mm wires, and hooking into the stock
> wiring. Looks like the Pertronix would be the best bet for me
> 
> -----------
> - Bob Barry
> Bob:

I had a 1973 455 Cutlass on which I put an Edlebrock aluminum manifold 
of no particular height.  I had to notch the distributor cap to get 
movement w/out HEI.  The HEI caps are very large.  I don't know how I 
would have gotten one of those on there.

I also judge cars quite a bit in AACA events.  Those large HEI units are 
real standouts as modifications.  I want to convert my distributors over 
to breakerless types but want dependability w/stock appearance.  I 
continue to listen to these discussions w/great interest & will get what 
I want soon.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:44:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Vintage Police Cars 

>I was under the impression that Olds police cars were around before then.
>Does anyone know differently?
>
>          Nick,
>
>          Remember that the 442 package was derived from the B-09
>          Police Package...leading to those nine extremely rare

I know of a guy who has a '54 Olds City Cruiser cop car.

       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 12:38:59 -0300
Subject: re: North Texas Olds Show 8/31

> Anyone in the southwest (or anyplace else for that matter) going to 
> the North Texas Olds show in Dallas 8/31-9/1? 

I would really like to go, but I don't have any info on it.  
Could someone from the list send the specifics (time, place,
directions within Dallas, etc...) directly to me please?  
I'm on digest and I don't always get to read them in a timely fashon.
Thanks in advance.

Side note - I was driving down HW 114 about 1/2 mile east of I-35E 
(In Texas, btw) and I saw shop with a probably 20 or so 1950-1970-ish 
Olds's out front in various states of repair.  Anyone know who this 
might be?  I think that area qualifies as Lewisville TX.  Next 
question is of course do we know if they do good work?  I'm looking
for a shop in the Dallas area.  Other suggestions are always welcome.

 - Travis and the 69 Olds 98 Convertable aka "Tiny"

- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:45:51 -0300
Subject: Followup: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

        Thanks to all your info and suggestions about my questions.  I went 
     to a junk yard and got a replacement trunk light assy.  It had the 
     lever and spring that were missing from mine.  I installed it and it 
     worked perfectly.  
        As far as the tabs on the rear seat and armrest panel, they are not 
     intended to hold seat belts as suggested.  The 'plate' half of the 
     seat belts cannot reach them.  There are too many tabs for just the 
     latching half of the belts.  In addition, they are too flexible to 
     hold the latches, nor can they fit over the tabs (the tabs are too 
     wide).  My hunch is that they are related to the fact that the car is 
     a convertible.  Could they have a parade application???

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 05:50:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Seat Recovering Info Here 

     I knew code 44 was Lean Exhaust, but I had to look up code 13.
     
     CODE 13 
     
     Trouble Code 13 indicates that the exhaust stream oxygen-content 
     sensor (O2 sensor) is not responding as expected. When cold, the
     sensor is 'biased' by the ECM to about 450 millivolts. Before it warms 
     to at least 600 deg F (315 deg C) it acts as an open circuit and
     when the ECM reads it, it reads the 450 mV bias. The ECM expects the 
     sensor to warm in a short period of time and begin sending its
     own voltages. The general conditions for this code getting set are:
     
     - engine running at least 2 minutes
     - coolant temperature at least 50 deg C (122 deg F)
     - O2 voltage not fluctuating (i.e steady between 350 and 550 mV)
     - TPS signal above idle
     - all above conditions met for 60 seconds
     
     Typical causes may include:
     
     1) Defective or degraded O2 sensor
     2) Deposit-contaminated O2 sensor (running leaded fuel, RTV silicone 
     deposits etc)
     3) Corroded/defective O2 sensor connection
     4) Defective sensor ground circuit
     5) Defective connection at ECM
     6) Defective ECM
     
     NOTE: If codes 21 and/or 22 are also present cause '4' above should be 
     checked first. 
     
     CODE 44 
     
     Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently 
     high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the
     ECM to compensate by increasing fuel delivery.
     
     Code 44 is set when:
     
     - O2 sensor voltage remains below 200 mV for 60 or more seconds
     - conditions are met for closed loop
     - Code 33 and/or 34 not set
     
     Possible causes include:
     
     1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
     2) Lean carburetor
     3) Water in fuel
     4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
     5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
     6) Vacuum leaks
     7) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM
     
     Note: Presence of Code(s) 33 and/or 34 may indicate MAF problem. This 
     should be the first suspect in the case of a Code 44 being set.
     
     -------------------------
     
     From the two codes given I'd look straight to the O2 sensor.  One 
     possibility for the code 44 that wasn't listed is a misfiring 
     cylinder.  If one cylinder isn't firing there will be more O2 in the 
     exhaust than normal (along with unburnt fuel, but the O2 sensor can't 
     sense that, it only knows there's too much O2).
     
     Another possibility could be an exhaust leak before the sensor not 
     letting the sensor warm up quick enough, and when it does warm up, it 
     detects O2 from outside air and says it's lean.
     
     That reminds me, I need to photocopy/shrink a version of this chart 
     down to stuff in the car.  I carry my official GM diagnostic 
     paperclip, but it don't do much good if you don't know the codes.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Seat Recovering Info Here
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/26/96 7:35 AM

     
P.S. Totally off the subject... got a Check Engine light on the way 
to work this morning that turns out to be a 13 and a 44. Anyone got 
a chart handy who could tell me what I'm going to find when I look 
these codes up this evening?

------------------------------

From: 455@clbs.k12.mn.us (Timothy P. Urban)
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:23:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Q- Jet Carbs 

>While we're on the subject of carbs....
>Some personal experiences:
>

Q-jets

snip

  Tuning Q-jets seems like the big
b*tch, being that you have to mess with the choke linkage (if you have
one) and the accelerator pump roll pin every time you change jets.

snip

Older Q-jets had a clip on the top bend of the accelerator pump linkage
instead of an s-turn.

These are swell to pilfer off old Q-jets if you plan on doing a lot of
tuning, as I have.

Tim Urban

Timothy P. Urban
Technology Coordinator
urban@clbs.k12.mn.us
(218) 335-2203

http://www.clbs.k12.mn.us/urban/urban.html
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:39:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: 81-87 Cutlass Trunk Release Mount

Brad Nicholson wrote:
> 
> I needa part.
> 
> What I'm looking for is the L-bracket mount, inside the glovebox, of a 1981-87
> Cultass Coupe.  The button for the inside trunk release fits in the hole in 
the
> front.  I got everything else for the trunk release but that.  It is shaped 
like
> this:
> 
> Side View               Front
> 
> ------          --------
>       |         |  /\  |
>       |         \_\/_/
> 
> Anybody got one?  Reply to me to keep the bandwith down.  Thanks
> 
>  ---
> | | |  Brad Nicholson
> | | |  1987 442 W-42
> |/|\|  President - Capitol City Rockets, OCA
> | | |  76062.3042@compuserve.com
>  ---

Friends of mine own several auto wrecking yards in the NYC/LI area and 
should have that in bracket in something. I'LL check for it on the 
weekend and let you know !

- -- 

Bill !                                         _           _       ___
                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition    /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1986 442 The Perfect "10"                /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                              |_|         |_|   |_______|
          
               Visit http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 12:22:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Seat Recovering Info Here 

>     - engine running at least 2 minutes
>     - coolant temperature at least 50 deg C (122 deg F)
>     - O2 voltage not fluctuating (i.e steady between 350 and 550 mV)
>     - TPS signal above idle
>     - all above conditions met for 60 seconds

Interesting. I got the light several times on the way in on the Kennedy
Expressway during rush hour, usually when we got back up to speed after
a stop-and-go section. I had a feeling this was going to be the O2
sensor since the car has almost 75K on it and has been running fine
otherwise -- actually it's still running fine.

>     Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently 
>     high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the
>     ECM to compensate by increasing fuel delivery.

Wonder if I'll see a slight increase in gas mileage after I swap the
sensor, then. I've been tracking it already and the numbers do match
what the gummint says the car is supposed to get around town: 19 mpg.

>     1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted

Defective, probably. Shorted, I doubt.

>     2) Lean carburetor

Ain't got one.

>     3) Water in fuel

Doubt it. Full tank of Amoco Gold.

>     4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor

Nope.

>     5) Fuel pressure or volume too low

Ehhh. Doubt it. Should probably check the age of the fuel filter, though.

>     6) Vacuum leaks

Nope.

>     7) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM

Hey, I calibrate my PROM daily, and see my dentist twice a year.  :-)

>     From the two codes given I'd look straight to the O2 sensor.

Me, too. And hey, I even have the Special Tool (socket) for the job.

>     That reminds me, I need to photocopy/shrink a version of this chart 
>     down to stuff in the car.  I carry my official GM diagnostic 
>     paperclip, but it don't do much good if you don't know the codes.

Yeah, one of us should do an Official Olds Owners Error Code Wallet Card.
Thanks!

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 14:52:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Headers for 67 Cutlass

> Does anyone know if headers are available anywhere for the 330/350 in a 67
> Cutlass. I have only been able to find them for a 400. Are the 400 exhaust
> ports the same as a small block? I've gotten conflicting reports on this. It
> seems to me that the 400 is a big block so the exhaust port positioning
> would be different than on the small block, any ideas?

I can't think of a reason why the headers for a 350  shouldn't work. Hooker
and Hedman both have part numbers for small block headers.

Boyd Parker (aka Rocketeer)            __|__
                                      |  |  |  Why drive just a car...
1966 4-speed Cutlass Convertible      |  |  |  when you can ride a rocket !
1970 4-4-2 Convertible                |  |  |
                                      | /|\ |
                                      |/ | \|
                                      |__|__|
                                         |

------------------------------

From: Peter_Teubel_at_Safety1st-MA@harte-hanks.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 12:10:20 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI Questions 

     Greetings, list members.  
     
        I have a question for you.  I recently purchased a 1982 Olds 98 
     Regency.  It was originally a diesel but somewhere down the line a 403 
     was installed (good deal).  
     
        My question is this:  Is the rear end gear ratio (which is stock) 
     different for the diesel engine vs the gas engines?  
     
        The reason I'm asking is because it seems like this car is geared a 
     bit tall.  Makes for nice take-offs, but lousy gas milage.  What are 
     your thoughts on this??
     
     
     
     Pete
     
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:39:28 -0300 
Subject: Re: 66 w/ EGR?

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com

>        Uhhhh...why is this a problem?  On virtually all Olds V-8s
>          known to mankind, the PCV valve mounts to the valve cover.
>          Only the 69 H/O and 70-72(?) W-30s and W-31s (actually not
>          sure about that last one) had the PCV valve actully mounted
>          on the intake manifold.

My '70 442 is also set up this way, with the PCV from the intake
to the carb.  I remember seeing a note in somebodys catalog that
the manual trans cars had this also. (I was searching for a
replacment for the right angle elbow piece that comes out of
the intake, as mine was cracked).

I wish it was a W-30 motor... :-)

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:06:32 -0300
Subject: Resto  Corner  .....

Today's tip comes from Jason Labay from Ohio,

You know the white lettering in "Brake Release"????
well that sometimes get's faded, so his suggestion that he uses is to 
put white out in the letters.  the letters stay white and the extra that is
outside of the letters can be carefully scraped off when dry.

Good tip!  keep those resto tips coming in!


i have some sad news though....  I may not be on every single day to post 
a new tip.  I will be on often enough to try to keep the mail number down
on my account, and i promise whenever i am on, i will post new tips and
those that all of you post, i will include in the resto tip book / contest.
The reason why i wont be on as often is i am student teaching 1 1/2 hour
travel time each way, and the work load in college can get hectic at times.


see you soon...
- --joe ferrero   Resto Corner

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:46:57 -0300 
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile ID Book

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>

>I Finally got my "Catalog of Oldsmobile 4-4-2, W-Machines & Hurst/Olds ID
>Numbers 1964-1991" book after ordering it 6 months ago.  Not a bad book at
>all for just $20.  The color pictures of paint codes and trim codes for all
>the years are really nice.

Except the color for the 1970 rallye red still doesnt look orange to me, like
I keep seeing on cars.

Also, is the head code listed wrong in almost every year, or was that
supposed to be an "example" in the first paragraph?  I dont have the
book with me, but I seem to remember them calling out a C head for
everything from '68 thru the 70's.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442 4-Speed

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:13:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Diesel gears 

     I had a similar question a few months back and apparently nobody knew. 
      My SO's truck is a converted diesel (to a 350R) and I asked because 
     it seems geared just the opposite of yours.  Lousy take-offs, but low 
     RPM's on the freeway.  I'm not sure about "good" gas mileage. . .  The 
     nearly 3-ton beast gets about 13-14mpg on the freeway.  Depends on 
     your definition of "good" I guess.
     
     Since your car is an Olds we may be able to come up with an answer.  
     Look on the front passenger side of the rear axle and you'll see some 
     numbers/letters stamped there (unless it's severly rusted off).  Post 
     'em or e-mail 'em to me and I'll look up what rear end ratio you have.
     
     Tom L.
     tlentz@teknon.com


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: HEI Questions
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/26/96 11:35 AM

     
        My question is this:  Is the rear end gear ratio (which is stock) 
     different for the diesel engine vs the gas engines?  
     
        The reason I'm asking is because it seems like this car is geared a 
     bit tall.  Makes for nice take-offs, but lousy gas milage.  What are 
     your thoughts on this??

------------------------------

From: Peter_Teubel_at_Safety1st-MA@harte-hanks.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:25:50 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Diesel gears 

     I would think a truck would be different, since they didn't use the 
     GM-converted-gas-engine diesel.  More low-end torque in a "TRUE" 
     diesel.
     
     I'll check out those numbers and e-mail you them tonight.
     
     
     
     
     
     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)
     
     
     


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Diesel gears
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at ~INTERNET
Date:    8/26/96 2:42 PM


     
     I had a similar question a few months back and apparently nobody knew. 
      My SO's truck is a converted diesel (to a 350R) and I asked because 
     it seems geared just the opposite of yours.  Lousy take-offs, but low 
     RPM's on the freeway.  I'm not sure about "good" gas mileage. . .  The 
     nearly 3-ton beast gets about 13-14mpg on the freeway.  Depends on 
     your definition of "good" I guess.
     
     Since your car is an Olds we may be able to come up with an answer.  
     Look on the front passenger side of the rear axle and you'll see some 
     numbers/letters stamped there (unless it's severly rusted off).  Post 
     'em or e-mail 'em to me and I'll look up what rear end ratio you have.
     
     Tom L.
     tlentz@teknon.com
     
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: HEI Questions
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET 
Date:    8/26/96 11:35 AM
     
     
        My question is this:  Is the rear end gear ratio (which is stock) 
     different for the diesel engine vs the gas engines?  
     
        The reason I'm asking is because it seems like this car is geared a 
     bit tall.  Makes for nice take-offs, but lousy gas milage.  What are 
     your thoughts on this??
     

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:44:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp

On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> Okay, let me backtrack a little on that. Maybe it was a dealer-installed
> option, probably a lot quicker to put in than the deck lid type, which
> required you to run a wiring harness through the frame of the lid (if
> you've never had to do that, lucky you), down the left side hinge and 
> along the trunk floor to the rear harness connector, along with a bunch
> of assorted clips and wiring loom, especially around the arm of the trunk
> lid (if you have a couple of holes punched in the inboard side of the
> trunk lid arm, that's where the harness retainer clips go).
> 
> For Pontiac, at least, the '72 LeMans we owned had the deck lid prepunched
> for the overhead light, not the hinge design, and I was able to retrofit
> the deck lid light in about an hour.

Just for interest, the trunk light on '68 and '69 Cutlasses (maybe 
earlier too) is in neither of these locations. It is mounted in 
approximately the forward center-left of the trunk lid and extends into the 
trunk, not hidden up in a brace. It sort of looks like a gold hockey puck 
with a hole cut in one side to let the light out. Surface-mounts to the 
underside of the trunk lid with 2 screws, and the cover (actually the 
part that looks like the puck) snaps off to allow for mounting and bulb 
replacement. This design uses a mercury switch that is integral with the 
bulb socket. Installed mine in no time. There is a hole in the brace it 
mounts to to allow the wire to be snaked down to the hinge area, where it 
connects to the wiring harness. 

As was said earlier, the 70-72 (?) Cutlasses used the light adjacent to 
the hinge as the factory unit. Seems strange that GM would use several 
different designs for such a generic part.

BTW, this trunk lamp design on '68s uses the exact same merc switch as in
the underhood lamps of that and presumably many other years. If anyone has
any of these merc switches around that still work, I could use one.  The
underhood lamp on mine needs a new merc switch. They are a small glass
capsule - sort of like a small-caliber bullet or a cold pill - with metal
caps on each end and a partial load of mercury. Over time the innards seem
to corrode and they fail. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:03:37 -0300
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

Its a straight forward bolt on. Remove your existing valvetrain rockers =
and then screw in the studs and guide plates, attach the new rockers and =
yes pushrods must be replaced but they are included in the kit ( but =
they are the wrong size.. specify correct size when ordering .... around =
9.9" will be needed). These couldn't be easier to replace though.

- ----------
From: 	Tom Lentz[SMTP:tlentz@teknon.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, August 25, 1996 4:54 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re[2]: Cam Stuff


     $320 can to $5 US?  Now _that's_ an exchange rate!
    =20
     Does it take any machine work to install these on an Olds?  Can =
they=20
     be put on a completed engine without pulling the heads or having to =

     get new pushrods?
    =20
     TIA!
    =20
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator =
_________________________________
Subject: RE: Cam Stuff
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/23/96 9:50 AM


Installation takes about 1.5 hours and couldn't be easier.Yes I think =
=3D=20
its worth it because a) They are stronger b) less friction c) converts =
=3D=20
Olds valavetrain to adjustable d) cost less than real roller rockers =3D =

e)they are lighter as they eliminate the bridge in conventional rockers. =
=3D=20
There is a place here in Canada called Canadain High Performance, they =
=3D=20
are on the west coast they sell a complete kit for the Olds =3D=20
(rockers,pushrods, studs, guide plates, for around $320 can. Convert =3D =

that to US that should be about $5. If you'd like the number let me =3D=20
know.
    =20
    =20
    =20
    =20
    =20
    =20
    =20
    =20

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:23:16 -0300
Subject: Ignition Kill Switch 

When I put the HEI in the Apprehender, I supplied it with +12volts from the
ignition switch. I would like to put an off/on switch in the middle of this
wire for use as an ignition kill switch. I was looking at AC/DC switches in
a local electronics store today and they had a couple 12v 10amp units. Are
these heavy enough to suit my needs?

       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:16:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile ID Book

Yea, I noticed that too. When I first read it I thought I should have
C-heads on my 80...but my Chris Witt head ID chart solved that problem.....


>Also, is the head code listed wrong in almost every year, or was that
>supposed to be an "example" in the first paragraph?  I dont have the
>book with me, but I seem to remember them calling out a C head for
>everything from '68 thru the 70's.
>
>-Jeff
__________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 IROC Z/28...............salvage yard special
1980  4-4-2 W-30.............1 of  886       OCA#027572

1975 Hurst/Olds W-25...1 of 2535  H/OCA#0278A             
Just what the doctor ordered....those awesome W-Machines.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #280
********************************
 
