
oldsmobile-digest           Sunday, 16 June 1996        Volume 01 : Number 205


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From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:11:10 -0300
Subject: Re: H/OCA and stuff 

I am happy for the vote to be disconnected from the OCA. It saves me the
money of being inthe OCA just to be in the H/OCA. I really enjoy the OCA's
Journey with Olds, but not enough to need it now. I know what you mean about
that article on the Lightning Rods being worth the membership. It was worth
the membership alone for me just to get leads on parts for my 75. I like the
idea of using the free classified add for list advertising. I would
volunteer my ad also.


At 05:13 PM 6/14/96 -0300, Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>     I don't remember who it was that was asking me in e-mail about the 
>     H/OCA and OCA, but I thought I should post for that person and all to 
>     see that the H/OCA will be officially disconnected from the OCA on 
>     August 1st.  What does this mean to you?  It means you will no longer 
>     have to be a member of the OCA before joining the H/OCA, and it means 
>     the H/OCA dues go up $5 to compensate for the additional overhead of 
>     being independent.

>     
>     Tom L.
>
>


Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio					z28cfi@gwis.com
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power			jlabay@phoenix.kent.edu
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power
H/OCA member #0278A

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 17:00:57 -0300
Subject: Oil Thanks

Thanks for all the input about the synth vs. non-synth oil info.  I just sat
back and whatched the bytes fly.  Also thanks for the exhaust info, it looks
like Torque Tech or Hooker for the kit when I can afford it.

One thing I didn't make clear in my oil post, the engine is a 307 Y-code (?) in
a 1987 442 that has had religious oil changes that never spanded farther than
3000 mile intervals.  The only leak I have is on the passenger side valve cover
and the car does not use a drop of oil, 5qts in - 5 qts out each time.  I a
little wary of full sybth because of the mileage on the engine and the
previously mentioned tendency to "find" possible leaks, that is why I am leaning
toward Valvoline Dura-Blend.  I have been using Havoline 5W-30 for the last 4
years, Valvoline prior to that and I haven't seen Valvoline Dura-Blend in 5W30,
just 10W30 and 40.  Should I worry about the weight change.

BTW - back in 1988 I saw another 1987 442 here in Maryland with the tag 442MUCH
also.

Again, many thanks, great group!!!

Brad Nicholson
1987 442 W-42 
76062.3042@compuserve.com
President - Capitol City Rockets Chapter, OCA

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 18:23:02 -0300
Subject: Re: What the heck was that?

> Yesterday evening I'm driving home and pull up to a red light behind
> an '84 Toronado....
> But here's the kicker: the rear suspension was sticking out well below
> under the car and looked an awful lot like a _front_ suspension, with
> A-arms visible, etc. Actually it looked like the hardware that you see
> peeking out from under the front of a Chevyvan. So it seemed to have,
> um, very independent rear suspension. It wasn't four-wheel-drive or
> anything like that.

>From '79 through till '85, the Toronado shared the E-body platform with
the Buick Riviera and Cadillac Eldorado.  The '80-'85 Seville used a
variation known as the K-body ( GM's K-car ).  The introduction of this
platform in 1979 allowed GM to use an A-arm, swing axle type independent
rear suspension that had been in development from the early '70s for the 
FWD cars.  Actually, Cadillac had experimented with independent rear
suspension in the '30s, but found little benefit and much more
complexity because of the RWD cars they were producing.  Anyways, this
new design permitted a lower floor, so trunk and rear seat capacity was
preserved despite a major downsizing.  There was also a reduction in
unsprung mass, but the previous design was very good in this area
already.  The view from the rear is indeed distinct; shock absorbers sit
prominently (easily visible if the level control is working) to the left
and right, while a thin, straight stabilizer bar extends horizontally,
connecting the two semi-trailing arms, which themselves appear to curve out
from a point near the middle.  BTW, the lower portion of these control
arms was dipped in wax as an added measure of corrosion resistance.  The
E/K-body from '79 till '85 represent the last generation of body-on-frame,
front wheel drive vehicles produced. 

Kevin Wong
'80 K-car  :)

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 20:21:03 -0300
Subject: Dagnabit 

Well, I tried to go to the Olds Homecoming, but my car decided that
she would rather attempt suicide.

I was on my way.  The car was running fine.  I was cruising in the
fast lane.  I looked down to see the HOT idiot light lit.  I was right
at an exit, so I pulled off an parked.  When I stopped the car the
coolant overflow resevoir overflowed.  It was hot.  There was a Wendy's
and a Red Cross Blood Donation Center right there, so I grabbed lunch,
and sacrificed a pint of blood to the Oldsmobile gods, while the car
cooled.

I checked the coolant level.  It was a little low, so I added some.
I decided to try for Lansing, again.  I got back on the freeway.
Now, my car wouldn't shift into 3rd.  I pulled off, again.  I
checked my tranny fluid.  It didn't register on the dipstick.
It took two quarts.  I figured that's what caused it to overheat.

I started to go back on the highway, again.  It still wouldn't
shift into 3rd.  I aborted, and headed home.  

My max speed is now 45 mph.  After that, the revs become distressing.

My tranny had been leaking for a while.  I tried the half pint of
brake fluid fix.  I don't think I would recommend that.

Other than that, my car is running fine... except for the starter,
brakes, suspension, roof...

On the bright side, $500 worth of suspension parts arrived from
Kantner, today.  And, during this adventure I rolled the Odometer.
I don't know how many times it has rolled, but this is at least 200,000
miles.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 21:27:23 -0300
Subject: Q-Jet Testimony 

In a message dated 96-06-14 08:06:01 EDT, Joe  writes:

>I have, however, found an excellent solution.  
>          Jiffy (among others) sells machined aluminum plugs with 
>          o-rings which replace the spun-in factory units.  Simply 
>          file off the spun-in metal, drill a hole in the factory 
>          plug, thread in a sheet metal screw, and extract the plug.  
>          The replacement is simply pushed into place (lubricate the 
>          o-ring first) and incorporates a boss which bears against 
>          the throttle plate housing to retain the new plug.  I 
>          installed these in my 70 W-30 when I thought the factory 
>          plugs were leaking (that was not the problem...) and they 
>          have worked fine for several years now.
>          

Joe,

Thanks for the reply. You guys will make a believer out of me yet!  (:

Could you please tell me where to get one of these plug replacement kits. I
have asked around locally with no results. I am not familiar with Jiffy....is
it a similar outfit as the Zip Kit carb overhaul kits company?

Thanks in advance,

Greg K

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eon.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 22:54:46 -0300
Subject: test

If you get this message... please respond.

Thanx. 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
S.G. Hartfelder  Owner: '38 Oldsmobile Street Rod
18619-68 Ave      http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/hartfelder.html
Edmonton,  AB
CANADA

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 00:35:45 -0300
Subject: Re: probly 

At 20.42 06,13,96 -0300, you wrote:
>Buddha wrote:
>> 
>> ok, this porbably wont be too popular with the "purists"out there, but i
>> must ask it...i have recently come into ownership of a 69 El Camino...is
>> there a way to put a Cutlass front end on, as this was the same platform as
>> the Chevelle?  dont worry it will probably get the 442 treatment and have
>> Full olds markings on it...
>>                          Zack
>>       ___
>>      /. .\
>>     _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
>>    / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
>>    \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
>>   /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
>>  *************
>
>Wow, that sounds neat!  I don't know if it will work but it sure sounds 
>feasable.  Are you thinking of trying the Cutlass interior too?  What 
>about the Olds station wagon tail lights?  Could trumpet exhausts be 
>adapted?
>
>That's an even better idea than a 442 station wagon.
>
>Bill Culp
>

it has Carerra buckets, and the only pieces i will be thinking about
swapping are the pieces with a chevy symbol...as for the tail lights, they
will get a painted on rockets...custom sytle :)
                    zack
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 00:37:53 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198

I will consult my source of the bearing eating rumor before posting a 
reply on that topic, but on to another topic.  I have heard that racers 
are experimenting with "bean oil" and are finding it to be superior to 
any petroleum based product.  Anyone else heard same?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 00:48:46 -0300
Subject: Re: test 

In a message dated 96-06-15 23:24:12 EDT, you write:

> If you get this message... please respond.
>  
Got it!

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 01:57:12 -0300
Subject: Re: test 

In a message dated 96-06-15 23:24:12 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:	test
 Date:	96-06-15 23:24:12 EDT
 From:	shartfel@planet.eon.net (SG Hartfelder)
 Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
 Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
 To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Oldsmobile List)
 
 If you get this message... please respond.
 
 Thanx.  >>


Got it!

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 12:03:17 -0300
Subject: Re: test

SG Hartfelder wrote:
> 
> If you get this message... please respond.


OK.


The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eon.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 13:00:09 -0300
Subject: Help Starting

Hi Guys!  Youve been a great help diagnosing other car problems Ive
had.  So, Im hoping you can help me with this one.

Its a starting problem.  Sometimes it starts.  Sometimes it doesnt.

Ive measured the voltage of the battery before starting and its 12.12
volts.  Once it finally does start, the battery measures 13.68 volts.
Does this mean the alternator is good?

When it doesnt start, all I get is a clicking sound?  However, if I turn
on the headlights they are quite bright.  Does this mean the solenoid is
good?

Its weird, the car can sit for a week and start, no problem.  But after
driving around for an hour I can turn it off and immediately afterward
attempt to start it again and..... it wont start.  The car does turn 
over for a few seconds but not enough for it to catch and actually start.
Then, it's had it.

To get it to started, I have to attach a trickle battery charger to it 
for 10-15 minutes then it usually starts.

Here's my latest theory, the battery is only rated at 460 cold cranking 
amps (quite low I think) and cable from the starter to the battery 
is a strand wire containing probably 100 copper wires and the battery 
doesn't have enough power to actually turn the starter.  The 
battery is in the truck because the 350 takes up all the engine 
compartment space.  So, it has quite a distance (maybe 10-12 feet) to 
move the power from. 

This one is driving me crazy.  The car HAS to be dependable before I
trust it driving anywhere.  The weather is great here and I'd really like
to get out, drive around and be able to stop and feel confident I'll be
able to get going again.

HELP!!!!  Thanks for your advice.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------
S.G. Hartfelder  Owner: '38 Oldsmobile Street Rod
18619-68 Ave      http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/hartfelder.html
Edmonton,  AB
CANADA

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 13:15:51 -0300
Subject: 67 98 RBmpr wanted

Forwarded message:
> From ajohnson@telos.ca Sat Jun 15 00:18:09 1996
> Message-Id: <199606150413.AAA18554@main.telos.ca>
> From: Andrew Johnson <ajohnson@telos.ca>
> Date: Sat, 15 Jun 96 00:18:16 -700
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: Mozilla/1.0N (Windows)
> Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=iso-8859-1
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Subject: Olds
>
> I'm looking for information (if possible) on finding a REAR BUMPER
> for a 1967 Olds 98 four door Luxery Sedan.  If you could put me in the
> right place to find such a part, Please e-mail me.  A friend of
> mine needs only this part to complete his car.  Thank You...

I directed him to "Bumper Mo" ? and/or Steve DeNovi of OCA fame, and HMNews of
course, also Ron Memmer as on the web page.

Any other helpful hints for him, please email him directly at the address shown
above, in the "fwded message" part.

- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 13:24:23 -0300
Subject: Swap meet

I went. Late. Made contacts, including meeting the illustrious leader of our
list, Greg... and Darrel from Traverse City... Got many contacts, sold a few
parts, bought a few parts... fought the misinformation battle... One older guy
who OUGHT to know what's what- his friend had a nice W30 intake for $1000 and a
pair uf well used Ka heads for $250- strangely enough, did not sell... anyhow,
he tried to tell me that the 425 and 455 cranks are the same stroke. I tried to
have him explain how, then, one displaced 425 cid and the other 455 on the same
bore, but his explanation made my head hurt, so I preessed on. Never did get to
see the CARS...

Bought a pair of C heads, an intake for what Mondello says is '72 MT except W30
applications- the seller claimed it was "right off a '68 Delta" but it did NOT
have the divorced choke cavity, so I knew that was not correct...
  Bought a "#5" water pump for $5- can't beat that price for a usable  unit,
and since I did not have a #5, that much closer to a complete collection...
  Bought a couple of manuals that I was missing before- 1965, 1974...
Sold a few items, a flywheel, couple harmonic balancer repair sleeves, oil pump
drive rods, pair of headers, a 66 hood...

The race car went away just after I left the house for the swap meet... Have
yet to hear how it fared. *glances about nervously*...
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 13:27:00 -0300
Subject: 78? Factory AL wheels

At the swap meet, there were two-three complete sets of those rare factory AL
wheels as used on 78? H/O? & others, with caps, for $350-$450 a set. There was
one lone wheel too. Pretty. Nice. Costly.

Interested parties can contact me, I got the number of at least one vendor who
had the set with Gold paint on them, claimed it was correct for the 78 H/O that
the rest of the pcs were from...

- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 09:03:22 -0300
Subject: Re: test

SG Hartfelder wrote:
> 
> If you get this message... please respond.
> 
> Thanx.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> S.G. Hartfelder  Owner: '38 Oldsmobile Street Rod
> 18619-68 Ave      http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/hartfelder.html
> Edmonton,  AB
> CANADA

S.G.:

Here is my response.  Do I pass the test.  What do I get?

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 09:20:04 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

Dan Williams wrote:
> 
> > 
> 
>      Do you think the gears are too steep, or do you just not like the noise.
> My 68 442 4-speed car  is an a/c car so it has the highest gears available 3.23
> (non-posi).  Is yours posi?  The funny thing is I'd like to replace my 3.23
> with 3.90s.  The car does not launch very well with 3.23 gears (lacks the feel
> of a muscle car).  Granted the gas mileage is better and it cruises nice on
> the highway.  However, I don't drive the car very often and it is just for
> cruising around and having fun.  I'd really like to drive your car (or
> anybody's for that matter!) with 3.90s and see the difference.
> 
> -Dan

Dan:

My car launches well and is a posi, but is not a W30.  It is a standard 
400 MT with ram air cleaner.  The cam in mine should take a little lower 
RPM's with no trouble.

The noise is the problem.  I just hate to hear it wind so hard at 
cruising speeds and even with a wide ratio 4-Speed, it goes through 
gears a little quickly.

I will be adding AC this winter.  Gas mileage is okay and our 
cheap excuse for premium has worked for the last 10 years that I have 
owned the car. It hasn't been more than 50 miles from here while I 
have owned it.  Come to Alabama and try it.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 09:24:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '68 442 rear end caper

JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> My 1968 442 4-Speed has 3.90 gears and they are a pain....
> 
> I would love to have 3.23 or 3.31 for my Olds...
> 
>         Bill,
> 
>         I have a 3:08 posi Type O rear end in my 70 W-30 (not the
>         original).  I will gladly trade for your 3:91s...I'll even
>         volunteer to pay shipping both ways.
> 
>         Joe Padavano
>         jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
> 
>         66 442
>         68 W-30
>         69 H/O
>         70W-30

I appreciate your offer ( and it is a generous one), but I am set on 
3.23 - 3.31.  Higher might not do what I want.  I bought a 396 Camaro 
new with 3:08's and cleaned plugs the 2 years that I owned it every 
month.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 14:28:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Help!

Hi Guys!  You=EDve been a great help diagnosing other car problems I=EDve
had.  So, I=EDm hoping you can help me with this one.

It=EDs a starting problem.  Sometimes it starts.  Sometimes it doesn=EDt.

I=EDve measured the voltage of the battery before starting and it=EDs 12.12
volts.  Once it finally does start, the battery measures 13.68 volts.
Does this mean the alternator is good?

When it doesn=EDt start, all I get is a clicking sound?  However, if I turn
on the headlights they are quite bright.  Does this mean the solenoid is
good?

It=EDs weird, the car can sit for a week and start, no problem.  But after
driving around for an hour I can turn it off and immediately afterward
attempt to startit again and..... it won=EDt start.  The car does turn over
for a few seconds but not enough for it to catch and actually start.
Then, it's had it.

To get it to start, I have to attach a trickle battery charger to it for
10-15 minutes then it usually starts.

This one is driving me crazy.  The car HAS to be dependable before I
trust it driving anywhere.  The weather is great here and I'd really like
to get out, drive around and be able to stop and feel confident I'll be
able to get going again.

HELP!!!!  Thanks for your advice.
- -----
I really don't know much about the electrical/charging system, but could it
be the starter? I was just trying to help, don't get mad! =3D) Good luck...
BeaTniK

     ------------------------------------------------------------------
     1965 Oldsmobile 98 Town Sedan   TIP # 1048   I Trade Live Concerts
     Always Buying Nirvana Items   MiSTie # 53344       Keep On Skankin
     ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #205
********************************

