
oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 29 July 1996        Volume 01 : Number 250


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 06:17:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Air to W-31

John & Robin Whitcore wrote:
> 
> We recently acquired a fully original #'s matching '70 W-31. The car
> never came with air conditioning. I was thinking about putting it in
> but wasn't sure about 2 things.
> 
> 1) Would it devalue the car? (Can it be installed in a way that it
> could be yanked without ever knowing it was there ?)
> 2) Given the setup of the engine/gears (original spec) would the car
> stall at every stop light? Would it affect the cars performance when
> not running?
> 
> It's hot in Florida!
> 
> John & Robin:

I'm afraid that you will need a little more work than you are imagining. 
 The heater version uses a different cowl than the AC version.  Your 
cowl will need to be cut for the AC & then the heater holes in the wrong 
place will have to be filled or just get a cowl section from an AC body 
& piece it into your old one.  Based on this, it can't be 'yanked' 
without evidence unless yo use an aftermarket type that fits under the 
dash.

I believe that AC enhances the value of a car even if it is of the 
aftermarket type as long as it is professionally done.  People are 
damanding massive extras that were not always purchased 25 years ago.

I don't believe that there be any problem in operation if done right.  
You would love it & not have stalling, overheating, etc.  Don't forget 
to get everything if you are taking from an original AC car.  You will 
need everything under the hood including brackets, hoses (which may have 
to be replaced), compressor, HD cooling system parts including clutch 
fan, radiator, & fan shroud & AC condensor.  The AC box mounted on the 
firewall needs to be in nice condition.  The AC fan may be different, AC 
heater core, condensor, & all associated wiring & that AC cowl section.

Inside you will need the AC dash pad & ductwork.  The AC control panel & 
associated wiring as well as the plastic ductwork at the bottom of the 
dash.  The kick panels are different as they don't have the vents in 
them are also needed as well as the ductwork going into the right 
kickpanel.

That is most of it.  Now to tear your car apart & spend real money 
getting it to work.  I recommend if you are going to do it - I am - to 
get a parts car (a sedan will work just fine) where it becomes a sit the 
cars next to each other & transfer parts situation.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 11:27:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Custom Sized Super Stock Wheels

John,
Specialty Wheel in Sandy, Oregon is probably who you've been told about.  I bet 
he will make a wheel for you.  I bought 5 new SS1's from them and am totally 
pleased.

Art Fuller 

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 06:30:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Tri-Power Parts FS

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> Hello,
>   I own a 68 442 convertable and was told to write you and ask to subscribe.
> I also have a 66 tri-power intake and original carbs   Thanks and Write Back
> please!
>                                                            Thanks,
>                                                              Craig
>                                                              


You are in good company w/a 1968 442 convertible.  There are several 
'68's on the list including mine.  Welcome & tell us about the 442.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

PS:  I don't know anything of the value of the tri-carb setup.

------------------------------

From: SCOT SWANSON <SCOT442@cris.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 14:17:12 -0300
Subject: Introduction 

I have been reading along with the mail list for a few weeks now.  I enjoy
the stories and the information. I am actually keeping a lot of them for
future reference!

I got tied into Olds about 5 years ago.  I was driving thru town and saw a
1968 Cutlass.  It was a high gloss eggplant color just sitting there saying
"buy me", so I did.  What a joy, for about 6 months I charged around in it
every where.  The previous owner had built up the 350 and even with the open
rear end, it would flat scoot!  (Well relative to my experiances to date, I
also owned a VW Dasher diesel.)  One night while driving home the engine
started into a very load clicky clack rythum.  My friend and I looked at it
and did not see anything obvious with the valve train and even disconnecting
each of the spark plugs were not able to effect a diagnosis.  Shortly after
that my life did a 180 and everything went into a holding pattern. Since
then the Cutlass has sat, and is my longest running "good intention"  I have
fallen more in love with Oldsmobile.  I have picked up a "fair" Convertible
and a nice 442.  The Cutlass theme is staging parts, with a 455 from a '68
98, 3:42 posi and TH400 from a '70 442.  Soon??? I will start to play with
the Cutlass, any ideas?  I am thinking along the same lines as Darren
Shroeger as having a drivable car that can be played with on the weekends.
The Byron Drag strip is real close and offers opportunities.  Had fun there
one day beating my friend's '70 442 but that's another story.

Keep those technical descriptions coming.  Until I find a hands on class or
program to educate me on engines, transmissions, and suspensions those long
detailed positngs are priceless.

Scot Swanson            OCA# 023046     1968 442 (Pride and Joy)              
Rockford, Illinois      1968 Convertible (Fun in the Sun)      1968 Cutlass
(Pending $)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:06:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

SCOT SWANSON wrote:
> 
> I have been reading along with the mail list for a few weeks now.  I enjoy
> the stories and the information. I am actually keeping a lot of them for
> future reference!
> 
>
> Keep those technical descriptions coming.  Until I find a hands on class or
> program to educate me on engines, transmissions, and suspensions those long
> detailed positngs are priceless.
> 
> Scot Swanson            OCA# 023046     1968 442 (Pride and Joy)
> Rockford, Illinois      1968 Convertible (Fun in the Sun)      1968 Cutlass
> (Pending $)


Scot:

Nice cars.  Dollars & time make a difference.  You aren't any 
different than most on the list.  At this rate the 1968's will outnumber 
the Toronado's & then I will have to get another Toronado.  I agree on 
the techincal discussions.  I have a nice file of them now plus other 
comments to which I hope to refer as the need arises.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Chris Miller <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 15:16:25 -0300
Subject: Re: thermostat

OLDSPWR@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dave:
> Putting in a cooler thermostat does not necessarily make the car run cooler.
>  In your case, if the radiator, fan, & water pump are not all working
> together, the cooler thermostat will open at 160 or 180 and remain open until
> the water reaches that desired temperature.  If the water/antifreeze never
> gets cooled, the thermostat will remain open and the water will continue to
> flow through the radiatior.  All the cooler thermostat will do is open
> earlier.  If you have problems with the car running warm, check the 'entire'
> cooling system. including the fan, clutch, radiator, water pump, and the
> thermostat (to see if it is partially stuck!)
> 
> On a side note, I just finished building my 403 about two weeks ago when I
> was getting ready to fire it up for the first time.  The temperature kept
> creeping until it hit 240 when I decided that was enough.  I then replaced
> the cheap aftermarket flex fan with a stock 6 blade aluminum clutch fan, with
> no success.  It turns out the brand new Robert Shaw balanced sleeve
> thermostat was stuck closed.  So I replaced it with another 180 unit and then
> car rarely creeps above 190.  It usally runs 180 on the highway with no
> problems at all.
> 
> Hope this info helped,
> Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com

I recently rebuilt a 455 and have been having the same problems, 
ie.running extremely hot, it will get up to 220-230 on the highway and I 
have a brand new 4-core radiator, 6-blade fan w/clutch, and Robert Shaw 
180.  I was wondering what your piston to wall clearance was, I used 
.001 over factory with forged pistons and I think that might be to 
tight.  Any ideas?

Chris Miller <cya442@erols.com>

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 15:12:43 -0300
Subject: Introduction

Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 12:34:24 -0500
Message-Id: <H000018e00443de5@MHS>
Subject: Introduction
TO: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca,
    SCOT442@cris.com
Encoding: 44 text

Scot

I have just recently bought a 69 442 and want to have a driveable auto
also.  The car is in relatively good shape.  All of the numbers are
correct.  There are so many performance mods that could be made.  But I
want it to look stock and not have a big lopey cam sound.

The first thing I did was get the a/c fixed.  That was $610.  I am now
flat broke.  My next project is going to get the rear end fixed. 
According to the axle code (gs) I am supposed to have 3.42:1 limited
slip.  Well, the limited slip has gone away.  I have just ordered the
clutch disks from GM ($83.75).  Hopefully that will get both tires
moving.  Right now with one skinny tire spinning I get 0 traction.  The
big Olds will fry the right rear tire untill 3/4 through 2nd gear.  I am
going to try to get some SSII wheels modified to accept a larger tire. 
I will plant those under the wheel wells and hopefully move forward
instead of spinning and smoking.

I will then replace the grandma mufflers with some Flowmasters.  After
that I plan on painting the car back to its original color.  It is
supposed to be platinum.  It is presently a dull machine gray.  Another
thing that I did was to replace the points and condenser with a Mallory
Unilite conversion kit and replaced the coil with one of theirs that fit
into the stock holder.  It was a royal pain to work on that distributor
while it was in the car.  If I had it to do over again I would just put
in a HEI and save the original distributor in case I needed all of the
correct parts.

Do you have a Mondello catalog.  He is the Olds GURU.  You can get his
catalog for $5 from Mondello Performance Products 1103 Paso Robles
Street Paso Robles, CA 93446 (805) 237-8808.  You can sometimes catch
Mr. Mondello on Tues and Thur from 2 - 6 Pacific time.  He can answer
your technical questions. 

I was thinking about getting a Mondello JM18-20 cam for my Olds.  What
do any of you think?  My car has a 400 ci motor with 10.25:1 or is it
10.5 compression, stock intake and exhaust manifolds, stock carb, 3.42
gears, and soon to have Flowmaster mufflers.  I don't want a big lopey
rough idling cam.  I would like for the car to sound stock except for
the Flowmasters.

This message has began to ramble.  I will go for now.

John Harris

------------------------------

From: <borlase@faith.gordonc.edu>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 18:33:25 -0300
Subject: floor board repairs

Hello folks.  

I have replaced the floor boards and interior carpet on my '72 Cutlass 
Wagon.  The work was done at a body shop that is run by a friend of my 
step-fathers.  He did a great job with it, but several things were wrong 
with the car when it was returned to me.

rear bench seat not attatched (fixed)
kick panel light sockets dangling and not working (fixed)
overhead courtesy light not working
underhood courtesy light not working
transmission gear indicator cable broken.
    Where can I get one?

The floors were rusted out and had big holes.  So I had the winshield 
resealed but it was not removed.  Portland Glass didn't want to remove 
because they said that the old caulking could break the windshield if it 
was removed.  Where can I get the clips so that they can remove the 
windshield?  On a related note, the new carpet got soaked after the first 
rain storm.  Areas affected were front passenger side and rear passenger 
side.  Where could the water be coming in from?  There is a little leak 
from the rear view mirror, but there was like an inch of water in the 
car.  Weatherstripping needs help, but on driver side only.

Any ideas on these problems?
Thanks in advance.

http://www.microdata.com/rborlase
http://www.microdata.com/rborlase/borlase.htm

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 18:34:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Air to W-31

My comments on putting air on a numbers matching W31, ecspecially aftermarket 
air.  I personally think that if you have a knocked out original car like this 
you don't add to it.  Aftermarket air does not add to the value.
Several months back I bought a non air 70 442 4 speed convertible with 33,000 
documented miles.  I hate non air cars, but would never think of adding air to  
this car.

Art Fuller
It's just as hot in Texas

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 18:46:15 -0300
Subject: RE: Olds Magazine? 

YES THE OLDSMOBILE CLUB OF AMERICA DOES..........???????

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 14:12:06 -0300
Subject: Re: floor board repairs

borlase@faith.gordonc.edu wrote:
> 
> Hello folks.
> 
>   So I had the winshield
> resealed but it was not removed.  Portland Glass didn't want to remove
> because they said that the old caulking could break the windshield if it
> was removed.  Where can I get the clips so that they can remove the
> windshield?  On a related note, the new carpet got soaked after the first
> rain storm.  Areas affected were front passenger side and rear passenger
> side.  Where could the water be coming in from?  There is a little leak
> from the rear view mirror, but there was like an inch of water in the
> car.  Weatherstripping needs help, but on driver side only.
> 
> Any ideas on these problems?
> 
> 


The water could be coming from the windshield that was 'fixed'.  A 
'fixed' windshield should not leak a drop.  Most glass companies will 
not guarantee to be able to save windshields they remove.  You must take 
a chance on this & possibly buy a new one.  The clips for holding the 
chrome on the windshield area are standard issue at glass replacement 
shops.  I wonder why they didn't have them.

A parts car in a salvage yard would be a good source of the gear 
indicator cable.  You might be surprised at GM even having one.  Try 
them first.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 19:58:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Th 200-4R Problems..

> >Well now that I have the car on the road, I am having problems with the
> >tranny.  After I properly adjust the TV cable (which is very straight
> >forward), the engine picks up about 200 rpms before it shifts from 1st to
> >2nd.  2nd to 3rd is a little sloppy and 3rd to 4th is fine.  I took it back
> >to the shop I had it built, and they claimed that it was a problem with the
> >TV cable (The TV cable regulates line pressure inside the trans).  So they
> >adjusted the cable so I was shorter, thus increasing the line pressure.  Now
> >it shifts sloppy from 1st to 2nd, and picks up about 200 rpms before it
> >shifts from 2nd to 3rd.  3rd to 4th is still fine.  Therefore I assume this
> >is a pressure problem and not a problem with clutch slippage, etc.  I talked
> >to an Art Carr tech and he said he couldn't help me because he didn't know
> >how the tranny was built.  And yes, I am taking it back to the shop I had it
> >built on Tuesday.  I am just trying to get some input.
> 
> A TV cable doesn't, as you say, "regulate" anything. It is a simple 
> mechanical control, actuation on one end to actuate something else on the 
> other end. All mechanical controls should be no less than 80% efficient. 
> What this means is if you have a 1 pound weight on one end of the cable, 
> it should not require any more than 1.2 pounds to move the weight in the 
> cables routed position and at the temperature extremes. This is a older 
> cable, is it sticking? If you had the TV cable in your hands it should be 
> very smooth if you actuate it. A TV cable, often referred to as the 
> "kickdown" cable, transmits the energy to the transmission to go to a 
> lower gear at or near WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Some TV cables have 

The TV or throttle valve cable does indeed cause TV pressure and line
pressure to increase in direct proportion to the throttle opening.  If, on
the otherhand, the car is not running, it simply serves as a mechanical
linkage between the throttle and a plunger in the control valve assembly
of the transmission.  However, during the operation of the vehicle, this
cable does impart a useful throttle signal to the transmission which
results in measureable changes in fluid pressure in various control
valve ciruits, so it is often said that the "TV cable regulates line pressure",
in vague, everyday terms <g>.  Also, it is inappropriate to refer to the TV
cable simply as a kickdown cable since it controls shift points and feel,
part throttle downshifts, and detent downshifts (the kickdown function).  

When the car was returned to the transmission shop, it was mentioned that
they adjusted the cable shorter in an effort to increase line pressure.
This is a cheap attempt at a workaround for a more serious problem, and
may in fact prevent full throttle operation.  If there isn't any binding
in the TV cable or TV plunger, the problem probably lies in the rebuild
(the more likely case here).  It was mentioned that there originally was a
1-2 flare, then a 2-3 flare was noted after the TV misadjustment; did all
this occur at WOT or at light throttle?

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 18:34:16 -0300
Subject: RE: thermostat

Wow you got that right it should be like .005 at least with forged pistons.

I was wondering what your piston to wall clearance was, I used 
.001 over factory with forged pistons and I think that might be to 
tight.  Any ideas?

Chris Miller <cya442@erols.com>

------------------------------

From: Bird62@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 20:58:50 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe 

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:04:16 -0300
Subject: Re: floor board repairs

At 06:33 PM 7/28/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello folks.  
>
  Where could the water be coming in from? 

A big hole somewhere?     ;)
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:44:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Air to W-31

Re. what you'd need to take from a parts car to convert to A/C... aren't the 
intake manifolds different too? Air cleaner too perhaps? I seem to recall 
someone telling me there's a boss on the front of a 455 intake that's 
tapped for threads on air cars, not even drilled on non-air, though I 
might be mistaken.

Man, all in all that seems like lots of work. I dunno if I'd even consider 
trying it. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:46:47 -0300
Subject: Compression ratios - was New Motor Considerations 

I have a September 1973 Parts and Illustrations book set.  In Section 00.000
they have some very helpful and nice horsepower and torque curves drawn for
all the available engines for each year.

I think a good test of what happens with compression ratios can be obtained
from the information in these curves.  In particular when we compare the 1970
versus 1971 engines which were essentially the same except for compression
ratio.  In '70 the big 455's were at 10.25:1 and thereafter 8.5:1. There may
have been a 10.5:1 in there someplace but most were 10.25:1.  I am sure I
will be corrected.

In any case, the following compares the _gross_  (not net) horsepower and
torque ratings given in my parts book.  These are the max ratings for the
most powerful 455 cid engines shown.

Hmm, I am planning to re-do my engine which is currently as a real 8:1 and
raise it to 9:1 by milling the heads, etc.  Since I can run any fuel out
there and run NOS without retarding the spark, I now question the need to
raise it at all.

Year                         Horsepower                    Torque (lbs ft)

1970                           400                               510

1971                            350                              460

So, dropping two (darn near) full compression points reduced HP 12.5% and
torque 9.8%.

Since we are talking of the ability to raise current 8:1 engines to 9:1 or
thereabouts one could expect 6% increase in HP and 5% in torque.

This, of course, is based on very little data but it seems to agree with the
changes predicted by the program.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:52:24 -0300
Subject: Olds Dealer Loses Franchise -- Long 

The following article appeared in the local newspaper today.  It involves the
Oldsmobile dealer where I was employed from 1987 to 1995.  Thought some of
you may find it interesting, as it sounds like this will be happening in
other areas of the country soon.  Sorry about the length.

Paul

As printed in the Lebanon Daily News, Lebanon, Pa.  7-28-96

GM CAR DEALERS SWAPPING FRANCHISES

     Come late August, a 66-year-old Lebanon automotive tradition will end:
the last new Oldsmobile will be driven out of the lot at Ebersole
Pontiac-Oldsmobile-GMC Truck at 1900 Cumberland St.
     That's because Ebersole Pontiac and Frederick Chevrolet are among the
first 10 car dealers in the country to implement General Motor's Project
2000: a national realignment of GM dealerships designed to improve customer
service and car sales in the 21st century.
     Under the plan, Ebersole Pontiac - which sells Oldsmobiles, Hondas, and
GMC Trucks - will swap its Oldsmobile franchise for Frederick Chevrolet's
Buick operation.
     A comparable number of Oldsmobiles and Buicks are sold in Lebanon County
according to both dealers.
     "We want to be team players with GM," Ebersole said of the model switch
planned for the end of next month.  "For me, it was a concern only because
our dealership has sold Oldsmobiles for 66 years."
     "It's a good play for both of us," said Fred Laurenzo, owner of
Frederick-Chevrolet-Cadillac-Buick-Geo-Toyota, an immense dealership with
nearly 20 acres of cars on 1505 Quentin Road.  "The reason that we're doing
this is to better serve the Lebanon market.
     "We can train our people better," Laurenzo added.  "We can be more
efficient.  The equipment we buy can be specific to the cars we sell."
     Laurenzo stressed the current Buick and Oldsmobile owners shouldn't
worry that the changes will negatively impact servicing of their cars.
 "Every customer will feel at home," he added.  "Any concerns that they might
have will be handled by Randy and I at a personal level."
     Traditionally stiff competitors, the two men said they've collaborated
since last October to plan a smooth transition.
     "This is the future of GM as we know it," Laurenzo said.  "We wanted to
negotiate from a position of strength.  It's going to happen shortly - so
let's get it done."
     GM's marketers, Laurenzo said, have determined that Chevrolet, Olds and
Cadillacs sell best when grouped together; while Pontiac, Buick, and GMC
Truck are a natural set.  He added that America's largest automobile
manufacturer intends to revolutionize the way it does business in the next
few years.
     For openers, crossover models that are identical except for cosmetic
trim of badging - like the Chevrolet Cavalier/Pontiac Sunbird - will be
history, Laurenzo said.
     "Each model will be more distinctive," Ebersole said.  "Each car is
going to be geared towards a segment of the market."
     Ironically, Ebersole said the Buicks he will sell six weeks from now
more resemble the Oldsmobiles sold at his dealership for six decades than the
new generation of Olds themselves.
     "Oldsmobile will target a younger crowd," he added.  "You know, 'This is
not your father's Oldsmobile.' "
     GM also plans to stagger the start of its model years, a move that will
bring fresh GM models to the Lebanon market at least twice a year.
     "Their feeling is they're going to be releasing 'x' number of new cars
every 'x' number of years," Laurenzo said.  "By doing it this way, there will
be new cars on the market every six months.
     A preliminary step in the local implementation of GM's Project 2000 plan
is the closure of Laurenzo's Friendly Buick-Pontiac-Chevrolet in the east end
of the county.  The Friendly dealership, which is housed in two buildings on
opposite ends of Myerstown along 422, will close on or about Saturday, Aug.
3.
     The consolidation will bring Friendly's remaining inventory to
Frederick's main lot in Lebanon.  The Buicks will then go to Ebersole.
     "GM's idea is to eliminate smaller dealerships and realign dealers under
certain franchises," Laurenzo said.  "There's so many things that are
involved with training mechanics and sales people that it's often difficult
for smaller dealers to keep up with the technology and expense.
     "We have world class facilities at our place (on Quentin Road),"
Laurenzo added.  "Friendly does not."
     Laurenzo said that he expects most of Friendly's 25 employees to find
jobs with Frederick of Ebersole.
     Ebersole will pick up the rights to sell Pontiac and Buick in the
Myerstown area.
     Frederick Chevrolet is a 12-year-old dealership with 100 employees that
has sold more than 50,000 cars since 1984.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:08:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Air to W-31

Greg,
You forgot to mention the core support. The car currently probably doesn't have 
a fan shroud.  That core support doesn't have shroud attachments on the bottom. 
Guess you could weld some on.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:12:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442 

In a message dated 96-07-27 21:50:13 EDT, you write:

<< my 4-speed car also has big time wheel spin
  but should be ok once i install no-hop t-bars, let's hope anyway?
  >>

 Install "No-Hop" bars to cure wheel spin?????

Oh well.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:10:25 -0300
Subject: Re: To forge or not to forge... 

In a message dated 96-07-26 17:37:16 EDT, you write:

<< nitride the crank  >>

Having searched high and low for a shop which provides such services and
failed (even Chris Witt couldn't help me), where do you get your cranks
treated?

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:12:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Custom Sized Super Stock Wheels 

In a message dated 96-07-28 10:11:00 EDT, you write:

<< olks
 
 Do any of you know the name, address, or phone number of a company that
 makes custom sized SS wheels?  I have been told that there is a company
 in Oregon.  I need a wider tire under my Olds but I don't want some
 aftermark chrome wheel.
 
 John Harris
  >>

Stockton Wheel, Stockton, California can make anything you want.  It just
costs $$$.  Information will give you the number.  They've been around a long
time and they advertise in Muscle Car Review. Popular Hot Rodding, etc.

If you want something local, check with garages/shops that cater to off road,
dirt track, street rods, etc.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:12:19 -0300
Subject: Re: thermostat 

In a message dated 96-07-28 14:19:05 EDT, you write:

<< I recently rebuilt a 455 and have been having the same problems, 
 ie.running extremely hot, it will get up to 220-230 on the highway and I 
 have a brand new 4-core radiator, 6-blade fan w/clutch, and Robert Shaw 
 180.  I was wondering what your piston to wall clearance was, I used 
 .001 over factory with forged pistons and I think that might be to 
 tight.  Any ideas?
  >>

Is there a shroud around the fan?  Does the fan fill the shroud to within
3/4" or so?

If not, correct that problem first.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:12:51 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

In a message dated 96-07-27 15:29:33 EDT, you write:

<<  I think people mistakenly use NOS for
 N2O, because a lot of people (like me, before I got involved
 with y'all) don't know what NOS means.  And, in a lot of
 the contexts, nitrous oxide kind of fit.
  >>

Actually, I suspect NOS was first used becaue it referred to one of the
largest manufacturers of such equipment = Nitrous Oxide Systems = NOS.

Kinda like Xerox to refer to photocopying.

N2O is closer to being correct of course.  The "market" will determine
sticks.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:25:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Air to W-31 

Numbers matching W-31s are rare beasts.  As many who follow this list know, I
do not consider myself part of the so called "correct" crowd. But this sounds
like a very nice car.

IMHO and experience, you would do great damage to the historical and
perceived value of the car.  They were flat out screamers, not a family
cruiser.

The bottom line is what do you want?  If the car is any kind of investment,
leave it alone and as showroon original as possible.  W-31s did not come with
a/c.

If you intend to keep ut because you love it and _really_ want the a/c, it's
your car.  If it provides little or no enjoyment as it is, change it.

I will have owned my '67 442 30 years this coming October.  It is _far_ from
original in spite of having some very rare W-30 pieces.  Do what pleases you
and your family.  Just realize that numbers matching W-31s are hard to come
by.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 18:32:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Air to W-31

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> Greg,
> You forgot to mention the core support. The car currently probably doesn't have
> a fan shroud.  That core support doesn't have shroud attachments on the bottom.
> Guess you could weld some on.
> 
> Art Fuller


Art:

I thought that all W cars had heavy duty cooling including fan shrouds, 
3 or 4 row radiators, & clutch fans.  My 1968 w/out AC is equipped this 
way.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:01:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Th 200-4R Problems.. 

Response to Mike Halls reply:

My TV cable operates very smoothly and is not stuck or old.  All of the TV
cables I have seen are adjustable, and they must be.  A TV cable and a
kickdown cable are entirely two different things.  A 350 type trans uses a
kickdown cable and does not have to be hooked up (although it should be).  I
have seen the hole in the trans for the kickdown cable threaded and fitted
with a pipe plug in some performance built 350's.      

As for the TV cable, an older issue of Hot Rod states in the article "That's
a Switch": "TV Cable: On a nonvacuum-modulated trans like the TH200-4R (or
TH700-R4), the throttle valve (TV) cable controls line pressure, upshifts,
and down shifts, so its proper adjustment is critical for ensuring
transmission longevity."   The article, "How to Install A TV-Cable bracket on
Holley Carbs", in the September 1995 issue of Car Craft states: "Late model
GM cars with automatic overdrive transmissions use a sophisticated racheting
Throttle Valve (TV) cable in lieu of a standard kick-down cable.  They rely
on the TV cable to control automatic upshifts, downshifts, the kick-down
point and (most importantly) line pressure.  Proper TV-cable geometry and
adjustment are critical for achieving desirable shift quality and avoiding
early transmission failure."

I hope these two quotes clarify my stating why the TV cable 'regulates' line
pressure.  I probably should have used the word 'control' instead or
regulate.  Anyway, the bottom line is that I think its a pressure problem
inside the tranny and not the TV cable.

I do appreciate your response though, Mike.  A lot of people read this mail
and I want it to be as accurate as I possibly can.  Overdrive trans are
really a blessing for older Olds because they can really add some
streetability to an otherwise  'gear bound' car.  I hope that my experience
with this 200-4R will help somebody else out on this mail list in the future.

Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:26:49 -0300
Subject: main seals 

Well, I finally had some time to play with the 442 today. I was able to get
the cooling system flushed and filled so I can let it run now. I had the car
running for a total of about 20-30 minutes and just backed it in and out of
the garage a few times, I was suprised that it even went into gear. But,
what I thought was really strange.....no leaks!!
I had already bought replacement engine seals and was going to do that next,
but the old ones seem to be holding fine. I havn't changed the trans fluid
and filter yet, but I did add about a quart to top it off. 
What do you guys think....The engine is completly rebuilt but I did it 10
years ago and it hasn't been started in 8-9 yrs. Could the old main seals
possibly still be good??

Todd Hall
'72 442
Cleveland, OH

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:40:42 -0300
Subject: Re: main seals 

At 11:26 PM 7/28/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, I finally had some time to play with the 442 today. I was able to get
>the cooling system flushed and filled so I can let it run now. I had the car
>running for a total of about 20-30 minutes and just backed it in and out of
>the garage a few times, I was suprised that it even went into gear. But,
>what I thought was really strange.....no leaks!!
>I had already bought replacement engine seals and was going to do that next,
>but the old ones seem to be holding fine. I havn't changed the trans fluid
>and filter yet, but I did add about a quart to top it off. 
>What do you guys think....The engine is completly rebuilt but I did it 10
>years ago and it hasn't been started in 8-9 yrs. Could the old main seals
>possibly still be good??

Todd,

I'd have to say you're one lucky man. Hey, if they don't leak they don't
leak. Keep the seals on hand, though, just in case...

BTW, what kind of seal did you use, rope or neoprene?

I have similar concerns about a TH400 I had rebuild twelve years ago, used
for a year (about 3000 miles) and then stored. I know that the innards were
in good shape, but I'm afraid to look after all this time; I'd imagine its
seals were all dried up, but seeing your case, I guess you just never know. 
>
>Todd Hall
>'72 442
>Cleveland, OH
>
>
>

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 19:52:28 -0300
Subject: Re: main seals

Todd Hall wrote:
> 
> But,
> what I thought was really strange.....no leaks!!
> I had already bought replacement engine seals and was going to do that next,
> but the old ones seem to be holding fine. I havn't changed the trans fluid
> and filter yet, but I did add about a quart to top it off.
> What do you guys think....The engine is completly rebuilt but I did it 10
> years ago and it hasn't been started in 8-9 yrs. Could the old main seals
> possibly still be good??
> 
> Todd Hall
> 

Todd:

Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.  My Toronado waited 13 years to be 
started again & doesn't leak a drop.  I'm happy & not looking for 
trouble.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 03:41:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Custom Sized Super Stock Wheels

BobH592058@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 96-07-28 10:11:00 EDT, you write:
> 
> << olks
> 
>  Do any of you know the name, address, or phone number of a company that
>  makes custom sized SS wheels?  I have been told that there is a company
>  in Oregon.  I need a wider tire under my Olds but I don't want some
>  aftermark chrome wheel.
> 
>  John Harris
>   >>
> 
> Stockton Wheel, Stockton, California can make anything you want.  It just
> costs $$$.  Information will give you the number.  They've been around a long
> time and they advertise in Muscle Car Review. Popular Hot Rodding, etc.
> 
> If you want something local, check with garages/shops that cater to off road,
> dirt track, street rods, etc.
> 
> Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
> '67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
> Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
> U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs Hello, the company is called Specialty wheels, ltd.
 34566 S.E.gunderson rd. Sandy, or. 97055 1-503-668-4793
     Mike Brady 69' 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 03:52:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442

BobH592058@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 96-07-27 21:50:13 EDT, you write:
> 
> << my 4-speed car also has big time wheel spin
>   but should be ok once i install no-hop t-bars, let's hope anyway?
>   >>
> 
>  Install "No-Hop" bars to cure wheel spin?????
> 
> Oh well.
> 
> Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
> '67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
> Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
> U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs  

Traction bars move the center of gravity toward the rear of the car,
this forces the rear wheels to the ground for maximum traction 
without wheel hop. Oh well.

Mike Brady 1969 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 03:53:27 -0300
Subject: Yet another......Flaming Oldsmobile 

I've gotta admit all these messages per day gets a bit tiring to go through
(especially as I've got 2 Oldsmobiles, five kids, a job & a
half.................) but the Flaming Oldsmobile-Saga's have brought back
one of my favorite stories:

My ex husband  had a story about his first Oldsmobile, a '67 Cutlass Supreme
Convertible.  He is a speed fanatic and had replaced the original 330 with a
built 455.  He had just got it running (being his first rebuild it had its
share of problems...) and a 'promising' first date with what would become
his  girlfriend.  They were tooling along on their way to wherever they were
going - both dressed up and hormonal no doubt - when they're at a stoplight
& my ex says "is that smoke coming out of my hood?"  He jumps out (Nancy was
a bit high strung & started shrieking about now expecting to explode on her
first date...)  He gets the hood open & yep - thats not only smoke but foot
high flames off the gas on the manifold that had caught on fire.  He's
frantic - no extinguisher - no ones offering any assistance -  its taken him
5 attempts to get the car to simply run for (he had NO assistance with the
rebuild - which oughta explain alot) and now its burning!  Nancy regains
some sense and gets out of the car - he's trying to find ANYTHING to smother
the flames with but he'd cleaned the car out for the B-I-G date!  He turns
to her and shrieks  (I heard both sides of this story & hers wasnt quite as
funny as his) "Give me something to put it out with!" - she screams back
"WHAT?"  The flames are burning brightly and he snaps - he rips her shirt
off of her and smothers the fire!  So now she's standing in the middle of a
busy street in her bra & is really pi**ed off!  She starts screaming at him
- - "why'd you do that?" and he says "My CAR was on fire" (putting things in
perspective for her for the future.....) and she continues screaming  at him
and he is screaming back for a few minutes longer till it dawns on her she's
quite the spectacle.  Needless to say they were both high strung & in
retrospect he could never figure out why he used her shirt & not his!!  Its
just one of my favorite of his many stories......   

Heavy Metal Forever!  Lisa Madsen
'67 Delta 88 Custom & '72 Vista Cruiser
Sincerely


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 & '72 Vista Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/lisa.htm

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 05:09:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Th 200-4R Problems..

Kevin Wong wrote:
>The TV or throttle valve cable does indeed cause TV pressure and line
>pressure to increase in direct proportion to the throttle opening.

No, I disagree. The TV cable only transmits energy. The throttle causes 
the effect to the transmission. The cable is only the link between the 
two.

>Also, it is inappropriate to refer to the TV
>cable simply as a kickdown cable since it controls shift points and feel,
>part throttle downshifts, and detent downshifts (the kickdown function).

Yes, yes, yes... They still call em' kickdown cables anyway.

>When the car was returned to the transmission shop, it was mentioned that
>they adjusted the cable shorter in an effort to increase line pressure.
>This is a cheap attempt at a workaround for a more serious problem, and
>may in fact prevent full throttle operation.

I agree...


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 05:32:02 -0300
Subject: Ninety Eight 1964  4DHT in Finland

Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
Thanks for many good answers to my queries.

> The bulb changing can be done on American cars either by taking the 
> screws out of the lenses & removing them to get at the bulbs or by 
> looking inside the trunk, finding the bulb holders near the bumper, 
> twisting them a part turn & removing them for the bulb.  I don't have 
> such a car, but these are the usual ways.

Well, here we are with my poor engklish. As you there in America have been
forced to learn the metrics, we in Finland have been 'forced' to learn the
english language. As I have to use the english a lot in my job, I don't blame
anybody about that. :).

When I asked about the bulb changing, I meant the INTERIOR lamps, not the lamps
that are outside the car. The lamp body is ring formed with no visible screws
outside. The opaque lens inside the ring is very thin and I doubt if it could be
removed some way without crushing it.

It will become dark in Finland soon. During the darkest period the sun is up
only 4 hours here in Helsinki. If I would live beound the artic circle
(norther than Rovaniemi) then there would be a period when the sun would
not rise at all. In compensation they have a period during the summer
when the sun don't fall.

> I believe that your clock question has been answered.  Another fix, is 
> to change it over to a quartz movement that is readily available in the 
> US.  These make for very reliable clocks.   

Thank You for that answer. What a genius clock! I'll see what happens when
I keep on turning and telling that thing how to go on.

> Was this car sold new in Finland, or imported later? How do those cars *get*
> there anyhow?

No it was imported from America 5 years ago. It originates from Texas. The cars
that
have been in Texas or other dry parts of the continent are usually in a better
condition
than those that come for example from Florida or other wet and salty districts.

In Finland the government uses salt on the roads during the winter to keep the
ice away. This is bad news for all car owners, since the salt is VERY corrosive
and the vechiles virtually 'smelt' into it (shhhhh....). Thanks to the nature
protect
groups the salting is nowdays more and more rare. I think there are many things
that
are common with nature protection and the car enthusiasts. Think about that.

To get such a car into Finland is quite simple: You just get yourself or a good
friend  into America and buy a car. Then You pack it into a container and ship
it
into Finland. If this seems to be expensive, think that we have a very high car
taxation here in Finland. For a new car it will be somewhat 30..40%.
So, when a new car at America costs about $18.000, the same car in Finland would
cost about $40.000. When You buy a car that is older than 25 years, you don't
need to pay the taxes. The shipping fee is about $1000.

> You travelled with three children who are not your own? You are either very
> brave, or completely insane!

The answer is: "completely insane".
- - The children make a lot of noice.
- - There must be a pitstop now and then.
- - You can't smoke in the car which contains children. (I never smoke in my
  Olds whether there are children or not)
- - The children get bored after the first 500 metres and start the endless
  tone-band that says "is there still a long way to go?".
- - The children want to have candy and after they have it, they drop
  the partly digested candy on the car sofa.


BUT I LOVE THE CHILDREN. So I must be completely insane. (One fact: You don't
get bored)

If somebody has ever travelled with less than say 3 children, he/she propably
has
noticed that they make a lot more trouble than say those 5 I travelled with. For
some
reason the children feel more comfortable (and make less mess) when they count
more than
3. So this is the reason for the 3 aliens not my own.

> Wow. You'd be considered pretty adventurous to do that in the USA; to do it
> in Finland you must be a hero! Actually I hear that American cars are pretty
> hot in Scandanavian countries, especially Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler cars from
> the 1950's.

The American cars are not popular here in Finland. Hot, yes.
I have heard the same thing about the tiny Japanese rice-cups in America.

> about it (though not much; base-10 numbering systems suck, we have it just
> because that's how many fingers we have and French Rationalists lacked
> historical consciousness; base-12 is more useful and convenient for
> dividing, but don't get me started on this...)

Well, my profession is computers and I usually use the hexadecimal number
system. (base-16).
It would be advantageous to have 6 extra fingers wouldn't it?

> In spite of the fact that we stupid Americans still cling to miles and 
> gallons, we have the vague notion of Celcius.   :)

Sorry about my celcius-lesson. :).

And again many thanks about the hints.
Esko Ilola
Telephone 	+358 2040 3439
Email		esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi
Snail-Mail 	Ukonkivenpolku 7B5
		01610 VANTAA
		FINLAND

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 06:06:15 -0300
Subject: RE: floor repairs (water problems)

Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
Here are some suggestions to find out the river:

- - the door window lid is never water proof and so the water can go into the door
and if the holes in the bottom of your door are open, it will continue safely to
the ground helping the grass to grow. However, if the hole(s) are closed for
some reason, the door will fill with water and at some point it will begin to
enter your car.


- - the air conditioning system (if it takes the outside air on top of the hood)
may receive a lot of water with which it can normally manage well. Sometimes the
 water running path is not clean (leaves, rats, mice...) and the water has to go
the same way as the air does.

Hope you find the river or learn yourself to swim.

Esko Ilola
Email      esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi
Phone      +358 2040 3439
Snail-Mail Ukonkivenpolku 7B5
           01610 VANTAA
            FINLAND

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:29:14 -0300
Subject: Resto  Tips  .....

Having the "correct heater hoses and vaccume lines can be a real chore,
since most NOS rubber hasn't stood the test of time well.   A cheap way
to have correct looking hose is to trace an origional hose markings onto 
a piece of paper and to have a rubber stamp made at a printing company.
then get the right color ink and stamp the margings on  with the appropriate
spacing between marks.





Resto Corner        (hope you like this tip.)

- --joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:51:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442

On Sat, 27 Jul 1996, John Harris wrote:

> Folks,
> 
> I have a 1969 442.  Right now I have the original wheels and original
> size tires.  I am having mucho wheel spin under full acceleration.  What
> I would like to do is to find some old SSII wheels and have them
> modified to accept a wider tire.  Do any of you know how wide of a tire
> I can get UNDER a 1969 442?  I will need to know the backspacing and
> overall width or the wheel.

I put some 15x7 SSII's on my '69 w/ Hoosier Quicktime 295-60-15's  The rim's
a little narrow - an 8" (or 10") would be better.  I'd say a 15x8 w/ 4.5"
of backspacking would easily fit...

- -Rod
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:50:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Floor Mats 

>Don't suppose you got a part number still?

Keith Wood is the current owner of the car, and got the whole receipt file
along with it. If I saved the floormat package (at least the card stapled
to the top) or the dealer receipt, either would be in that file. I don't
have Keith's email address handy but you could send mail to Bryceman for
forwarding; Keith's his manager...

>Maybe I should just try another dealer that might have a clue?

Definitely. There are all kinds of parts guy behind the counters at the
dealerships; you just need to find one who will do a little digging.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:17:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Ninety Eight 1964 4DHT (Hurst) 

>You may not have to open it up. The mechanism slows down a bit if you turn
>it backwards; just try turning it backwards by 12 hours and see if there is
>any difference in its speed. If it is still too fast, turn it back another
>12 hours. This is a pretty ingenious system of compensation; if the clock is
>5 minutes fast, and you turn it back, the mechanism is slowed down a bit,
>and if it is 5 minutes slow, it speeds up a bit when you turn it ahead.

Okay, this is nitpicking, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the
minimum amount of movement required to nudge the regulator mechanism is
20-minutes-worth in either direction. So if the clock is gaining, say,
five minutes over a short period of time, try turning it back twenty, then
forward fifteen in order to both correct it and tweak the regulator back
just a little bit.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #250
********************************

