
oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 25 June 1996       Volume 01 : Number 213


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 00:28:44 -0300
Subject: 442 Firewall Tag 

In a message dated 96-06-23 19:51:33 EDT, you write:

> ST      67-33867     LAN     3786     BODY
>     TR      975-B            P-2          PAINT
>             W   2LG
>             4F   5VY
>
>

Well, let's try this...

ST 67(1967)-3(Oldsmobile)3867(Cutlass Supreme Convertible)

LAN 3786 (Lansing plant body sequence number)

TR 975-B (Trim code for Red bucket seats) 

PAINT P-2 (Paint code for Pewter with a Black convertible top)

and that's about as far as I go.  I think the other codes are for options.

Paul

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 23:31:54 -0300
Subject: 1959  OLDSMOBILE  Super 88 parts

Found this in rec.autos.antique, hopefully someone can use this stuff.
BeaTnIK

>Have: Original 394ci Carter AFB carb; hood emblem; chrome turn signal 
>lever; nice front parking lenses; and all 4 hubcaps, $200.
>
>-John: hfan38b@prodigy.com

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:31:39 -0300
Subject: AC

TODAY is the greatest day of my life (sniff). For TODAY, I have AIR CONDITIONING
for the first time since I bought my 442 5 years ago. I am so proud (sniff).

PS. (Reference Point) High 90's this week, in the 100's last week


            Pat ( I live in Hell, but people call it Texas) Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			  clark@abu.dseg.ti.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:52:14 -0300
Subject: Re: AC

> From: Pat Clark 952-3776 <clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com>
> TODAY is the greatest day of my life (sniff). For TODAY, I have AIR CONDITIONING
> for the first time since I bought my 442 5 years ago. I am so proud (sniff).

Congrats, Pat!!  Your success has given me the impetus to get the ozone-depletin'
unit in 'Big Red' up to snuff, for the first time since I took ownership 4 years ago :)
Actually, it's prolly a msall thing on my Cutlass, just a leak somewhere... the compressor
is good as far as we can tell.  It's been at or near the bottom of my list of things to fix
'cuz I almost only drive the car on days when I can put the top down anyways
(i.e., not raining)


>             Pat ( I live in Hell, but people call it Texas) Clark
                                                       ^^^^^
                                It sure was Hell for the Red Sox in Texas this weekend :P




Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'88 Cadillac Brougham, a.k.a. 'Big Blue' -- Olds 307 Powered!!
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:42:10 -0300
Subject: Misalignment

I have a slight misalignment problem...

A/C bracket, matching up to Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, off about a 
quarter inch, centerline to centerline.

Anybody had this happen to them? How did you fix?

I could grind on the bracket ID, making the hole larger in the cast iron 
but I'm afraid the section will be too thin and will break. There isn't 
enough material on the intake to do anything with that.

TIA,
Mike


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 06:56:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Misalignment

Mike Hall wrote:
> 
> I have a slight misalignment problem...
> 
> A/C bracket, matching up to Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, off about a
> quarter inch, centerline to centerline.
> 
> Anybody had this happen to them? How did you fix?
> 
> 
> 
> TIA,
> Mike
> 
> 
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Mike:

If I remember correctly, my R4B on the '73 455 required many little 
modifications for cruise, PS, AC, etc. and I just made them.  Things 
haven't improved since the early 70's I suppose.  Factory engineering 
surely can be taken for granted.

I can only say to watch out for alignment of pulleys when you set your 
modifications in stone.  Also look out for interference with any other 
system on the car.  You might use washers above and/or below the bolt to 
strengthen it or have a piece welded onto the bracket for strength.
 
Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 12:20:22 -0300
Subject: Dolt Mechanics- 69 442 engine

> Going to pick up the 69 442 engine with spun bearing tomorrow. With luck it
> just might come with xst manifolds or something.

Went & got it yesterday... the guy was kinda cheap, had taken the pan off,
no xst manifolds to be seen, notched rocker arm covers 'not there', geeeez.
crank out "so I could see the innards", fine... also had removed the carb
#29251, which I found on a nearby bench. He tried to calim that that was not
the carb off that engine, but the number told all... then he says that's it,
but "it doesn't go w/ the engine at that price"- not how *I* recall the phone
conversation going... Whatever, let's see what I *do* get...

  OK, start looking at it, bronze paint.... over orange? Hmmmmm. C heads, yep,
G block, yep... Yep, coupla bad bearings, crank is scored, OK, still about
worth it...  Funny, the MAINS look worse than the RODS, and the middle bearings
worse than the front ones. Very unusual.

  Oh, what's this? a FORGED CRANK !?!?! I decide that it's definitely worth it,
start snickering & giggling inside. Talk him out of the carb for another
$50, not a bad price for a -251 carb in "good shape" [we'll see about that].
Give $, load her up... He tells how it used to be in a friend's 69 442, "ran
real good" [Yeah, I bet, & for how long? Read on... Heh.]

  Notice that flexplate still attached to crank... is broken near the center,
oh well, easy to find, right? Funny, one flexplate bolt is missing. Hmmmmmm.
Drive off snickering that I finally got a forged crank, but, hey, that ID #
seemed familiar...

  Stop 1/2 mile down the road, measure the crank's flexplate bolt pattern.
AAAAAARGH, that's why that # was familiar- it's a *425* crank! Jeeeeez. Back to
the house, point this out, ask if he has a correct crank for this engine, no he
says, this one is out of that engine, no others around.

  OK, fine, I can find a use for this crank, I have a good N crank for this
motor... But here's the kicker- this dolt put a 425 crank into a late 400
engine... but with the stock late 400 rods & pistons. Let's see, the L400
stroke is 4.250, 425/E400 is like 3.975"... a diff of, oh, 0.275", which means
that the rod journal is about 0.140" closer to the crank center, which means
that, with stock L400 rods & pistons... the piston never came closer than about
0.150" to the deck surface...
  Must've made for compression on the order of 5 or 6:1! Sheeeeesh. "Ran real
good" Yeah, I bet. No wonder he pulled it out & put a 350 in. Dang.

  Oh, and  let's talk about the flexplate. Hey, all the holes don't line up,
that's OK, just put in 5 of them... never mind where that giant weight ends
up... must've been real good for the BALANCE, eh? Way I see it, the BEST the
weight could've been is about 5 degrees off, more likely out of position by 1/6
or 1/3 of a turn- way out of place. What a dork.

  Get it home, take off a head, cool, it has 442 [high compression] pistons-
not just a Vista engine. Has big-valve C heads. Correct intake, choke coil
still works. Has a cam of some sort, appears aftermarket. No chamfers on the
front... Pistons & rods look salvageable. Here's a rocker pedestal- hey, never
saw one quite THAT worn before- like over 1/8" worn away! Literally. Oh, and
another in similar condition... and a third, and a fourth! The other 4 were
grubbier, but not nearly as worn... so, in it's short life, this engine wore
half of the rocker pedestals to nubs...? wonder why/ how that happened. Left
out an oil gallery plug perhaps. Yeah, it musta "run real good!" allright... I
know this engine had a short life, too, because not much carbon was on the
pistons, and the bathtub intake gasket had almost NO gunk built up on it. I'd
say it lived about thru 1 oil change. Must've been something to see that run...

  Dang, between this kind of mechanical work, and that guy at the swap meet who
thought that putting 403 heads on his 350 was going to make it run BETTER...
seems the world's just full of misinformation about the Olds.

Just because it CAN be done, doesn't mean it SHOULD be!
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <DAVEI@MAIL.IDT.NET>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:38:34 -0300
Subject: 67 cutlass accelerator

I have replaced my jetaway with a turbo 350 and now I want to get rid of 
the accelerator linkage (with the variable pitch stator switch) and 
replace it with something more unobtrusive. Any ideas or help will be 
appreciated

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 12:39:04 -0300
Subject: starfire in Sweden needs parts

OK, another contact via the web page... can any of y'all help out this guy? Got
parts, a car, contacts? I'm afraid the only thing I could do is point him to
Hemming's Motor News... -Chris-

> From stefan@sic.se Mon Jun 24 09:34:26 1996
> Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:34:50 +0100
> From: Stefan Berg <stefan@sic.se>
> Reply-To: stefan@sic.se
> Organization: Svenska InternetCentralen
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> Subject: starfire
> X-URL: http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/rocketsci.html

> Hello,
>
> I'm a Starfire owner in Sweden. I've got an Oldsmobile =
>
> Starfire -62 coup=E9.
> There was a WOMAN smashing in to my car a couple of weeks =
>
> ago and I just cant find new parts. This is the one and only =
> Starfire in this country and it is in mint condition. =
> Please, let me know if you have any left back bodyparts for =
> sale.
>
> Please, let me know if you want images of this beauty.
>
> Micke Sundstr=F6m
> ISDN Group of Sweden AB
> Kaptensgatan 13
> 114 57 Stockholm
> Sweden
> +46-(0)8-6677010
> fax+46-(0)8-6670610
> E-mail micke@sic.se
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 05:45:13 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 455 

     I think there's an issue about valve cover clearance with the 455 in a 
     '78-'87 Cutlass.  I've been told that you can't have taller than stock 
     valve covers or they'll hit the power brake booster.  Also, if you 
     don't have A/C, you'll need to cut a notch in the heater core housing 
     for clearance.  I guess A/C cars don't have this problem since the 
     housing is shaped differently.
     
     But other than that, it fits right in!  Better beef up that radiator 
     though!
     
     What type of tranny are you planning on using?  I know TH350's fit 
     right in, not sure about TH400's.  You could also use a TH200-4R 
     tranny if it's built right.  People think they're weak trannies, but 
     if built right they can live behind big blocks.  I know of several 
     buick GNs that run 11-12 second 1/4 miles with that tranny, and of one 
     early 70's buick with a buick 455 and 200-4R, all running with no 
     problems.
     
     Then again, if it's in a truck and you plan on towing stuff, a TH400 
     might be the way to go.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: 455
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    6/23/96 1:11 AM


     >> is there a way to put a 455 in a 78-88 Cutlass?  i am asking this 
     because 
     
     Anyway, to answer the question at hand (although you lost me with the
S-10 part...)  If the Cutlass had an Olds V8 already (260, 307, 350, 260X or 
350X) the 455 will bolt right in.  The exhaust needs to be modified, and the 
accessory brackets need to be alterred.  Most can come from the donor car, 
except the AC, which will require fabrication to run the smaller, R4 
compressor.  

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 08:05:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Dolt Mechanics- 69 442 engine

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> > Going to pick up the 69 442 engine with spun bearing tomorrow. With luck it
> > just might come with xst manifolds or something.
> 
>
> seems the world's just full of misinformation about the Olds.
> 
> Just because it CAN be done, doesn't mean it SHOULD be!
> --
> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
> wittchri@pilot.msu.eduChris:

Wow!  I have been told that red necks are only found in the deep South. 
 One must have gotten away.  We'll send someone after him - can't let 
our best talent be exported.  It could drain the economy.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 06:15:44 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Computer Codes, plus *YES!* (long) 

     The carb book is just called "Rochester Carburetors" by Haynes.  It's 
     a big blue book, got it for $12 from the local Al's Auto Supply.  It 
     also has lots of good info on adjusting the mixture control solenoid, 
     which involves a dwell meter and looks a bit more complicated than the 
     TPS, but I could probably do it.  Fortunately, I don't think I need 
     to.
     
     The car is still running great after the TPS adjustment, I can't 
     believe the difference, it's like a new car.  It even idles better!  
     The adjustment was free, unless you count the investment in the book 
     and $4 for the jumper wires (which I needed to have around anyways).  
     I think it took me a grand total of 15 or 20 minutes to do the actual 
     adjustment once I decided to commit to doing it.  About 10 of that was 
     spent finding the right size nails to fit into the TPS socket (I 
     didn't want to bend anything in there) so I could attach the jumper 
     wires.
     
     Yeah, I read that about the Buick guys adjusting their TPS.  I didn't 
     think it was too relevant to me since they have a throttle body and 
     fuel injection.  Guess I was wrong.  I hear they set their TPS to 
     about 0.35 volts (opposed to the factory spec of 0.48V) for better 
     response.  Something else they check is that it goes all the way to 5V 
     on WOT, and I saw instructions there on how to take apart the TPS and 
     adjust that, but it's not relevant to a carb.  Mine only goes to low 
     4's on WOT.  Maybe I'll get the guts to try tweaking it again soon.
     
     On the Buick GN page I also saw how to make a poor-man's ram-air 
     system, which may be adaptable to a Cutlass, I'll have to experiment.  
     And they gave some traction tips, like a bigger pinion snubber and an 
     air bag in the right rear spring.  Which is kind of a moot point
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Computer Codes, plus *YES!* (long)
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    6/23/96 2:12 PM

Tom, nice explanation on the TPS adjustment.  By an odd coincidence, I had just 
p ut this on my list of "things to check, uh, sometime", after reading a little 
blu rb by a GN owner who said he got a nice improvement after having someone 
adjust his.  Read it on the GN page, the existence of which I was also reminded 
of by one of your posts!!  Anyway, with your instructions, I 

BTW, what was the name of the Carb & CC book?
     

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 13:49:46 -0300
Subject: which 350, etc.

> Doubble bonus!  Anyway, I guess it really does pay to check some of these
> things out, huh Chris!

A-yup... helps to get folks who travel a lot trained as spotters/ flier passers
too... My brother's gf just spotted a pink ? 67 Cutlass for him. We stopped to
see it yesterday. He wants $5500/BO for it, overpriced by a factor of 3-5 I'd
say... typical. VERY red body metal, even the radiator support. Needs
completion. Has a 400 small block engine & trans [choke! gack!] with it. OK,
whhatever...

> > but people who drive fords....

I think an icy stare is the best response to that sort of comment, besides a
personal email reply. Remember, writer, there's always at least one listening.
I recall grumbling about "#$%# lawyers" to a list reader, discussing he fools
at Friedland... ooops, he's a lawyer! Open mouth, swap feet... My Ford F150
works very well, thanks, for picking up Olds engines & such from Padnos, etc.,
beat the heck out of the Dodge I had before, in ride, handling, load ability,
air, tlit, cruise, I love it. -Chris-

> is not correcting the problem.  The Starter/solenoid would be last & can
> be checked at most parts places.

If it comes to them, just replace them. Cheap insurance. The 403 guy just
bought a new starter, with new sol. attached, for $30 at Auto Zone. Hi-tork
unit, too. -Chris-

> From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
>
> The Mitchell Interchange Manual that I have gives the following casting #'s:
> 1970 455, 390hp Dual Exhaust
> LH: 406199

Yeah, that's what he thinks he needs. Funny, in all my travels, I have NEVER
seen one of those. At least, it never made it to my giant database of Olds ID
#'s... go figure. The "S" xman I just got is only the second of those I've ever
seen. So, what casting LETTER is this mysterious 406199 unit? -Chris-

> WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> > OK guys I still need a 72 saddle color dash pad.
> > I would like a original saddle AC dash pad.
> > 72 W30 Race Rocket

My brother says he just might have one of them. Will investigat, will take a
while... -Chris-

> Not really.  The 4-4-2 was not a separate model until '68-'71 but was an
> option only available on the Cutlass Supreme in 1967.  Therefore this VIN #
> tells you that it is a '67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (38677) built at the
> Lansing, Michigan Plant.  It may very well be a 4-4-2 optioned car.  In
> order for it to be a 4-4-2 it should have:
>
> A 400 cid engine (bronze color).
> A single 4bbl carb.
> Automatic or Standard Trans.
> Dual Exhaust with chrome tips.
> Front and Rear sway bars with boxed lower rear control arms.
> Letter C cast on front of left cylinder head and rear of reight cylinder head.
> Nick DiGiovanni

This guy knows his '67's!

> Special chrome air cleaner. Automatic has single snorkel (same as '66)

Dang... that '67 442 engine that came in my 68 had a round chrome open-element
air cleaner on it, chrome RACovers, too... I ditched the ACleaner in CA,
thinking it was a K-mart unit or something. Oh, well. Live & learn. -Chris-

> Forgot to mention his was a 350ci. but it was more than just running hot it
> would overheat at a mortal rate.

Did I mention that you need to be sure the lower radiator hose is in good shape
and has a wire inside it... I have actually seen them get sucked shut by the
water pump at speeds above idle, if the hose is soft and no spring/ wire inside
to keep it open. That's a tough one to spot, cuz you never see it happen at
idle... Oh, and remove the t'stat, put it in boiling salt water, see if
it actually does open. Or, just replace it. -Chris-

> Saturday I made it to the Homecoming in Lansing. The only problem was the
> traffic from Detroit to Lansing on the Interstate - how *do* you folks put
> up with that each day? Just crazy, either bumper to bumper at 70 mph or
> stopped due to construction. Anyway, it was a beautiful day and I had no
> problems thanks to the excellent directions some of you gave me. Thanks!

Yeah, try it towing a race car on a dolly. Alternate routes...

> Found the Olds plant and was amazed that you could just drive in and
> park. Put on my Bryceman shirt and wandered around. Was looking for

I thought they coulda used a few more signs, and maybe ones that said something
like "swap meet" or "cars" instead of "Craft Show"...

> people and DeNovi wanted to buy my shirt. I figure if Bryce and Chris
> wanted to go into business together selling these things they'd make a
> fortune because I got lots of nice comments about it. Something to
> consider, guys.

Funny, nobody offered to buy MINE...

> Finally I went back to wandering around the vendor area and as I'm walking
> along I hear a voice yell out, "Hey... who are you?". It's our esteemed
> Mr. Witt, finally, who ID'ed me from the shirt.

Only 2-3 of us from here there, and only 2 of us had the shirt, I think.

> I had intended to call Bill Goodnight of the list who's also in Boise and
> meet with him too while I was there. My conference had us pretty well
> booked, though, and since I met a very special person while I was there
> (another story... do we have anyone here in Indianapolis? ;-)   ) I was
> otherwise occupied and didn't get the chance. Sorry, Bill.

Well, well... What luck!

> All in all it was a great week. One of the lessons I learned was that for
> us in the east we really have a lot of challenges compared to our friends
> out there when it comes to old cars. I mean, I was astounded to see old

There's an understatement....

> From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@top.monad.net>
> Subject: Still asking
>
> Me again. In my quest for a good choice engine to rebuilb I collected a
> 350 from an 78 Olds Salon. It has a 4brl manifold and is still all Gold
> paint. When I tried to clean the pad on the left front I lifted a large
> flake of rust and I think the number went with it. It does have the ID 3A
> on the heads. Would this or a combo of the other engines make a good
> starting place. The rest of the car was in fair shape so if anyone needs
> parts I could get them.

I thought we settled this... use the -558 "2" block. All of your heads are uh,
sub-optimal, but the #8's are the worst. The 3A heads would be the best, I
believe they have actual small-block sized ports, taller than they are wide,
where the intake meets the head... whereas the 7A's for instance has nearly-
square ports there, much less tall, much less flow. Throw out the #8's. Really.
Kill them. Use the 3A heads IF they have taller- than- wide intake ports by a
factor of oh, over 1.25. If not, get earlier heads: 7a [tiny capital "A"] from
a '72 are optimal, or #5, 6, or 7 [sans any "A"- 1971] are suitable as well.
Diff: 7a's have hard xst seats, good for unleaded fuel use. Others CAN be
fitted with same, but at some $. I believe the 5A heads would also be small,
squarish intake ports, but could be mistaken...
  Use a non-roller cam, getting new cam, right? Regular lifters, "2" block
350's pushrods & rockers- watch out for later rockers, some use 3/8" balls on
the pushrods, and would not work well with 5/16" ball pushrods, or vice-versa.
  email privately for more detailed discussion. -Chris-

> From: John & Robin Whitcore <retrotek@phoenixat.com>
> Subject: `69 442 Dash?
>
> We bought a `69 442 that we are stripping so we can have some minor
> body work done to it and to get it repainted.  Does anyone know how
> the dash comes off?  For the life of us, we can't figure it out.
> HELP!!!

> Well, there are a ton of speed nuts that hold the dash on.  This is one
> of those dreaded dashes (68-69) that nobody wants to remove.  I've done
> 4 of them and they were all a pain.  A big help would be an assembly
> manual, it will give you a location of all the speed nuts, but you don't
> need it.  Just start feeling your hands around the back of the dash.
> You can start near the vents at either end of the dash.  Also, you'll
> probably have to remove the gauges at some point.  Some tips, are to use
> a deepwell socket for the nuts because the studs in the dash are pretty
> long.  Also, make sure you have plenty of socket extensions and flexible
> driver.  Another must is to remove your seats and drop the steering
> column (optional) if you want to.

I concur. Step 1: GET a manual- a Chassis [Service] Manual and/or Assembly
Manual. Meanwhile, I have done it w/o removing all those things mentioned, but
it's a contortion act... Deep 1/4" drive socket, 11/32" if I recall correctly
[Hah!], flexible drive tool, cordless screwdriver helps a LOT. A LIGHT so you
can see what you are after... Remove the obvious ones, the gently tug on the
dash, see where it seems to still be held, crawl back under and look/ feel for
the fastener- you know they are all on the perimeter of the plastic/ foam pad
area... seems to me like the most-hidden ones are under the heater control, and
way up on the far driver's side, which youcan barely see with one eye if you
get it in the right place... FLEX DRIVE tool! One right by the glove box,a
too... the tug & watch where it's still held method works well for locating
them in general. Ooops, that one, under the gages??? There's ONE that has no
nut, instead, it is PRESSED into a nut-like device that holds it by FRICTION.
To remove that last one, you do have to tug fairly hard on the dash, and then
you hear a "bad" sound as the screw threads come out over the friction's
protest. That might be the one in the center of the gage area- I forget if top
or bottom... -Chris-
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 13:56:05 -0300
Subject: More on the 455/ trans/ radiator

> So, I have the opportunity to buy a rebuilt '69 Police 455-4V engine, with 350
> trans, and 4-row radiator... don't think I should pass that up. Anyone
> hereabouts {Lansing, MI} need a 455 or trans? Engine was bored 30 over, forged
> pistons, W30 spec cam, very healthy.

Saw/ heard it run, put a deposit on it. Gotta sell some C heads &c to Dick
Miller I guess...

Very healthy. Could use headers. Stock intake, I think, but a really nice,
pretty, new Edlebrock carb sitting on there... Starts easy, runs GREAT. Sweet
motor. Reciept for over $500 in trans work: new 11" converter, stronger this &
that, reprogrammed valve body for firm shifts... "Just" a TH350 though. New
4-row radiator.

I think it's worth $1000 as a package, will separate. It'd cost at least $1000
in parts and machine work to build just that motor.
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 14:17:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 1967 442 

In a message dated 96-06-23 01:03:29 EDT, you write:

>>  Front and Rear sway bars with boxed lower rear control arms.
[snip]  
>   Well, I got the car home, and it has all of the above, so I guess it's
real!
>  :)

I'd be one big smiley face too! So it had the boxed control arms and
anti-sway bar in the rear after all? That'd be good. $4200 is a great price,
if the rust is not too bad. Enjoy!

>  Now lets talk about "heat soak" <grumble>.. heheh

Ah, that's when you pull a muscle and need to relax it. Get your '67 running
right, and you'll have to "heat soak" your neck after a night of cruising. ;)

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 14:40:05 -0300
Subject: misc. stuffs

> From: John & Robin Whitcore <retrotek@phoenixat.com>
> Subject: `69 442 w/455 Engine
>
> We're the owners of a '69 442 w/ a 455. We noticed that any Olds
> books/manuals we could get our hands on stated that the '69 442 was
> only available with a 400 engine; except for one. Was the 455 actually
> an option for the '69 442?

Only in an H/O. Well, and big cars, Toronados, etc. NOT in a standard 442, not
even a W30 442, no.

> The "Oldsmobile 442 & W-Machines Restoration Guide" by Motorbooks
> International lists the 455ci Performance Engine as 1969 Optional
> Equipment (p90, Option L32). Our car also has a letter C cast on the

Lots of misinformation floating about re: Olds in general. You've come to the
right place.

> left and right cylinder heads as it says in the spotters tips for the
> 400ci engine.  The casting numbers on the engine denote a 455 between

Well, yeah, except that... 1) heads can be changed easily, I can put C heads on
a 260 engine if I want to... 2) C heads were used on EVERY big block from 1967
to 1969... 425's, E-400's, G-400's, 455's... only the way exotic W30's and some
H/O's got other-than-C heads in those years.

> `68 and `72 (396021-F).  We are just curious as to what we've got!

Yep, that's a standard good old 455. Find the VIN derivative stamped onto the
vertical machined pad at the front of the engine, on the left side, just below
the deck surface, for a more positive year-ID. Oh, and, get the number off the
oil fill tube, too. Carb number would help, as would a dist'r number. Intake
casting number or letter? How about the xst manifolds, big letter near the
front, about an inch tall? 6-digit number near the center?

Hey, as luck would have it, I JUST picked up a 'correct' 69 442 400 engine!
wanna trade? It has a forged crank [yuk yuk! out of a 425...] but I can upply
it in 'correct' form, too... In Lansing, MI   -Chris-

> From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
>
> >I have three olds engines. I beleive them all to be 305's.
> Blasphemer!

Heh! I love that phrase...

> The 3955582 indicates a 350.  The #8 heads are the smogger heads from '73-7?
> 350s.

Actually, the "2" at the end is usually larger, separate. the 395558 part is
the good old 6-digit block casting #, whereas the "2" is the block ID, similar
to the "F" of the above '69 "442" [incorrect] engine.
  I repeat, the #8 heads are virtually useless unless you WANT to make an
engine with 7.8:1 compression.

> >The second one has the number 4790GM 5.0 L G behind the water pump with
> >3FY317794 on the Cly head pad. It also has 7A on the heads.
>
> I can't for sure ID the block but based on the heads thats a 307, '86 or
> newer.  Those heads have a swirl port design which, according to Joe M.,
> stop making power at 4200 RPM.

Yep, roller-cam 307. Wanna see what a 7A head is like? Plug off one nostril.
Not bad, huh, can still breathe. Now go out for a quick 1/2 hour run like that.
Uh-huh. Yep. Be sure to go up a few stairs while you're at it.

> >The third has 3161-5A on the pump ledge and 5A on the cyl heads.
> Another 307, this one has the '80-'85 better 5A heads.

Non-roller-cam most likely.

>  What's your budget?  Are you buying new pistons, cam, etc.?

Yeah, that's pretty key here... any engine rebuild at all STARTS at about
$1000, about half of which is typically spent at the machine shop. Bore job,
grind crank, balance it, these things come in $100- $200 chunks... If you can
use the stock bores, so much the better...  -Chris-

> Anyone have an unused stock-equivalent or SLIGHTLY hotter (below .470
> lift) cam they have decided against using and would like to sell?  Or, a
> used cam with lifters marked as removed from the bores.

I got a roller cam out of a 307!   Heh. A few stock used cams on hand. Lifters
are only $35, buy new ones...-Chris-

> 1967 4-4-2 Convertible - <---"been waiting a LONG time to type that! :)"

Wouldn't just happen to have red plastic inner fender wells would it? :)

> On the same note, does anyone have steel non-rotator retainers for sale?

Yes, Paul, I have several of EVERYTHING on hand. If used-but-useful is adequate
for your purposes, compose a list, and snail it to:
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing, MI 48911
  & I'll set you up just fine. Cheap too. I have valves, springs with dampers,
retainers, you name it.

> >>and where is Baniff.
> Banff is in Alberta and just across the B.C. border.  It's about 9-10 hours

Only one vowel in Banff... musta been that vowel shortage back in '03...

> Congratulations!  You won't believe the fun you will have and the
> frustration too.  These things beat new cars all over the place - unless
> you want cheap comfortable transportation to get quickly from point A to
> point B.
> Bill Culp

Pretty sure that's NOT what one buys a 29-year-old convertible with way too
much engine for... btw, '67 442 man, is that the correct "E" block 400 engine?
Look by the oil pressure sender just behind the water pump...

> From: glenn connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
> Subject: found overheating cause!!
>
> Thanks to all those that provided their insights and suggestions to the
> overheat problem with my newly rebuilt 455.  It turns out that the new
> waterpump's impeller was not attatched to the shaft.  As I was removing it,

My gosh! That's a new one to me! Who woulda figured THAT? Oh, is that supposed
to be tight on there? :)

> I have also just got a 78 Olds 350 w/ 3A on the heads from a Salon. Now i

That'd be a late-smogger 350 engine. Those heads should have the 'proper' small
block size "tall" intake ports. -Chris-

> only have to read the FAG's to figgure the best way to go. As for budget,

Heh. Read the WHAT?

> as usual it is somewhat limited. If I don't have to replace pistons etc I
> won't. Wife doesn't always see things the same as me. have headers on the

Watch out for the definition of "have to" I had the shop assume that I wanted
to bore the last engine because the bores were 0.004" tapered... since the
factory manuals allow .005-.006" of taper/ out of round, I decided to not bore,
saved about $150 in machine work, and $300 in pistons.

> 307 in my Cutlass now. Will they fit the 350. I beleive they will but I

No problem. No diff's, s'long as 7A heads are not involved [big A, roller cam
307's]

> need to ask anyway. Also the smogger 350 has an elderbrock al. manifold
> on it. Plan to use it on the finished engine. also anyone have

Ok... should work out fine. Check port sizes on heads and intake while they are
apart, make sure they are similar, within 1/8" or so of same size...

> suggestions on the type of cam to use. I dive 67 mi to work each way 50%
> of which is intersate highway. Would like economy but I am willing to
> sacrifice some for some balls. It gets boring and there is always someone
>  to pass!
>  Thanks again.

Well, maybe you should use the lifters/ pushrods/ rockers with big balls, then
:)...  Ahem, jesting aside... Edlebrock cam commonly sold with that intake
oughta be a real good combo, if you want a bit more, uh, huevos, try a slightly
more agressive cam from say Mondello/ Engle, etc. With that you might consider
having larger [2.000" ] valves fitted to the heads while they are apart.
- -Chris-

>   Anyone know what details I can find out about with the tag on the firewall?
> It reads:
>
>      ST      67-33867     LAN     3786     BODY
>      TR      975-B            P-2          PAINT
>              W   2LG
>              4F   5VY

This is apparently some sort of alien language, possibly French. :)
I don't have the books on hand right now, but I bet Bob knows...

> Does anybody have a set of Mickey Thompson valve covers they would like to
> sell???
> Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com

saw a set go at the swap meet- too late for me to get them. Next time, I'm
gonna load the trailer the day BEFORE the swap meet... -Chris-

> Hope this helps, but I guess it doesn't.  I'd gladly let you try the manifold
> I have from a '66 Starfire, but my '67 98 is waiting patiently and it took me
> a long time it.
> Paul

Is that an "S" manifold?
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:06:26 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 455 

Olds V8 in S10:
That would be neat.  With Bravada interior front end, tail lights, skirts, 
etc.  An Aurora engine?  Ok, back to reality . . .

There are a number of books and vendors available for swapping a Ch*vy V8 
into an S10.  They are probably a good place to start, taking the BOPC 
differences into account.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

- -------------------
     To get to the confusing part, tho.  What is this going into; a Cutlass
or an S-10?  The S-10 will need a different tranny to accomodate the BOP
bolt pattern, and will require changing the lower motor mounts on the frame
(which as far as I can tell requires pulling the lower control arms --or the
firesaw-- to get to the mounting bolts. 

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:16:49 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: fun with 260's? 

Chris,
You'll have to keep us informed on how this goes.  I've always thought it 
was an interesting idea, but like someone said, I would just have a shiny 
turd after all the work.

I'd like to see it done, hopefully with good results.  I've got to agree 
with Charley about breaking the sound barrier :).  Hey, maybe get some 
diesel heads, fill 'em, grind them ports, wallah, big valve, 12:1 cr.  
Maybe Smokey Yunick has done this.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

- -------
>So, a friend, Pat Lind, has decided to do what some of us can only dream about
>doing...
>
>Hot-rod a 260 engine...
>
>Anyhow, somebody had to do it... And Pat's a big-car freak, too... Hmmm....

Anyway, I always thought it'd be really interesting to see what it could do.
Hell, if ford can make a 289 break 35 miles per hour, we should be able to
break the sound barrier, right???  :)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:22:53 -0300
Subject: Definitions

Based on my experiences and others' stories, here's what folks who are trying to
sell you parts mean based on what they say:

  "Runs good"
- -If you don't mind the coolant & oil mixing and overheating due to the cracked
head and/or block. Oh, and that std-size piston in a factory 0.010" oversize
bore might be a bit noisy. Or maybe it had 6:1 compression from the
short-stroke crank that was installed, cut the HP in half...

  "spun a bearing"
- -because the previous "mechanic" put in a crank with a wee bit shorter crank,
attached an incorrect flexplate with most of the bolts, and of course never
balanced it. Between the flexplate weight being who-knows-where and the crank
being balanced for a 425 but used with G400 pistons & rods... that would tend to
kind of beat on the bearings a little I guess.

  "3-series posi differential"
- -2.56 open, lamest ratio/ case there is. Good for axles, 12-bolt coverplate.

  "Four-eleven gears"
- -Or maybe 3.90, or 3.08, really, I don't know, never even bothered to count
turns or anything...

  "It's got a 403 big block"
- -I am totally clueless. Someone told me it's a 403 or a big block or something
like that.

  "It's a Solid Main Web 403"
- -It's a 403. Maybe 1977. Weren't all the '77's SMW engines? [NO!]

  "Rocket 350"
- -smogger 350 with 8:1 compression, but way more power than the 4- or 6-banger
I'm used to driving.

  "Golden Rocket 350"
- -Smogger 350, back when they were painted gold, as was just about every small
block from 1964 to 1976 or so.

  "Rocket 455"
- -a 455 of some sort, probably a smogger 200 HP J-head unit. Might even have a
red air cleaner.

  "Real 442"
- -ragged out Cutlass [not even Cutlass S] that I stuck a "good running"  "455
Rocket" engine [see above for definitions of quoted phrases] into...

  "1968 W30 motor"
- -1973 J-head smogger motor. Common as dirt, good for rods, block, scrap cast
iron.

  "I don't know"
- -I know, but I ain't saying, because it would make the item appear to be worth
considerably less than what I am asking.

  "Rockcrusher Trans"
- -a 3- or 4-speed manual trans that I found.

  "it's got dual exhaust"
- -that I cobbled up using some common-as-dirt #1 & 4 xst manifolds, capped off
the extra hole.

  "it doesn't leak"
- -because I sealed the leaks with some kind of goo that will last until just
after you buy it.

  "the timing's off or something"
- -something like... it overheated and cracked the block, but I had to keep
driving it. So now the rings are baked solid onto the pistons, it burns oil
like you own a refinery, has no compression, needs a full rebuild.

  "it's new"
- -or, rather, it WAS new, at one time.

  "low miles"
- -1/4 mile at a time...
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:24:12 -0300
Subject: 330 available

I have, coming to Lansing real soon, a "good running" [no, really!] 330-4V
engine with trans, 1966 vintage. Anyone interested? It needs a good home. Runs
& goes.
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:50:57 -0300
Subject: Re[6]: Changing Differential Fluid 

I knew someone made a product to solve this sounds easy, looks easy, lube 
on the ground, lube in the face, lube running to my arm pit job!  I never 
asked because I was probably imagining the look I would get from the parts 
counter guy!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

- ------------------
They do sell "lubricant pumps" for this job, which are very useful for a 
variety of purposes...made to screw onto a standard oil bottle, kind of 
like a hand-soap dispenser.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:50:33 -0300
Subject: Re: 330 available

> I have, coming to Lansing real soon, a "good running" [no, really!] 330-4V
> engine with trans, 1966 vintage. Anyone interested? It needs a good home. Runs
> & goes.
> --
> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

Dag-nab-it!  This is one of those rare occasions when I wish the Good ol'
US of A weren't so durn big... Lansing's a good 1100 miles away from here :P

Chris, too bad it can't run & go right out here to Boston, I'd love to drop it
in Big Red and replace the '73 vintage high-mileage 350 currently powering
her... and it might be a tad quicker than doing the rebuild on the basketcase
'64 330 I acquired last year.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'88 Cadillac Brougham, a.k.a. 'Big Blue' -- Olds 307 Powered!!
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:05:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Definitions

LOL Chris, tho this list of terms would be funny if'n your definitions weren't
so *True* -- And let me add one I experienced recently:

  "Mint"
- -- This was used to describe a '65 Corvair ragtop with a 'For Sale' sign on it
   that my buddy and I pulled over to look at last week.  From a distance,
   it looked okay.  However, once within 15 feet of it, one could see a 15 y.o.
   black paint job all full of cracks.. tired interior... new but cheap
   knock-off wire hubcaps... and a thick layer of old caked-on mud inside
   the right rear fenderwell (no posi on that transaxle, I guess :) )
   Nice top, best part of the whole car.  Uh, oh, it's an automatic.
   And a model 880, which I believe is the 110 H.P. version.

   I figure *maybe* $1500.  If you're in the market for a Corvair, that is.

   So the guy comes out while we're looking at it, and tells us he'd let it
   go.... for $5,500!!!  I guess our spluttering laughter caught him off guard,
   as he kept repeating that the car was "Mint... totally Mint".

   It's still there, in all its 'mint-ness' :), in case anyone's interested...



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'88 Cadillac Brougham, a.k.a. 'Big Blue' -- Olds 307 Powered!!
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:12:59 -0300
Subject: Re: You've done it before 

>> Blasphemer! 

>I already appoligized for the blunder - very sorry - don't know what 
>came over me.  Hope my Olds still starts after a mistake such as that!

Well, mine would run cranky for a while if I had offended it thusly.  :)
Those two extra cubic inches make a big difference, you know.

>I have also just got a 78 Olds 350 w/ 3A on the heads from a Salon.

Not sure about those heads at the moment.  I'll have to check Mondello's
technical manual and get back with you.  Speaking of which, if you're
building an Olds, you'll want this very thing, as well as the Mondello
catalog.  Give them a call and ask for the V8 technical manual ($24, worth
it).  Contact info is on Bryce's web page, http://www.442.com (sorry, I'm
too lazy to get it myself.  Besides, you should check out the page!).

> Now i 
>only have to read the FAG's to figgure the best way to go.
                       ^^^
WELL now, if that's the way you feel!  ;)

>As for budget, 
>as usual it is somewhat limited. If I don't have to replace pistons etc I 
>won't. Wife doesn't always see things the same as me.

Come now.  There's always room for a $2000 engine in any budget.

> have headers on the 
>307 in my Cutlass now. Will they fit the 350.

Yes.  All small blocks (260-307-330-350-403) are physically the same on the
outside.  The exhaust ports on the heads will certainly be somewhat
different, but I'm not sure how much this affects header installation as
I've never done that (yet).

> Also the smogger 350 has an elderbrock al. manifold 
>on it.

Is it the "Performer 350", #3711?  Keep it.  Use it.  Good stuff.

>also anyone have 
>suggestions on the type of cam to use. I dive 67 mi to work each way 50% 
>of which is intersate highway. Would like economy but I am willing to 
>sacrifice some for some balls.

Good man.  The Mondello catalog will help.  Also check out the Edelbrock web
page, www.edelbrock.com.  Check out the Olds intake manifolds, and you'll
see they list a camshaft, valve springs, timing chain, and stuff to match
the certain intake.  I remember at least one person on the list using the
cam #3712 (matched to the #3711 intake) to satisfaction, and that happens to
be the cam I'm using on my own 350 build-a very streetable (daily driver, in
fact) application.

__________________________________________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."
stwom@ctp.com       |  -Yoda
__________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:19:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Dolt Mechanics- 69 442 engine 

At 08:05 6.24.96 -0300, you wrote:
>Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>> 
>> > Going to pick up the 69 442 engine with spun bearing tomorrow. With luck it
>> > just might come with xst manifolds or something.
>> 
>>
>> seems the world's just full of misinformation about the Olds.
>> 
>> Just because it CAN be done, doesn't mean it SHOULD be!
and taqht is exactly why i have decided to put a Chevy 350 into the
S-10/bravada...i wont have to swap trannies, and i can just find valve
covers with rockets on them...you may call it blasphemy, but it must be done...
                        zack

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 16:47:38 -0300
Subject: Quarter panel advice

Once more time, does anybody have any experience with the J.C. Whitney quarter
panels for '68's ?

Year one says theirs will not truly fit a convertible, Sherman's says theris
will, Brother's Auto says theirs will, but some the suppliers say their
wheelhouses will not fit convertibles.

Is any body familiar with this quandry ?

Is there a best among these suppliers ?  I bought the floor pans from year one
and they fit just fine.

Again, just need some advice.

The frame is nearly done being sandblasted, the DP-90 epoxy goes on tonight.

Next question : Urethane or original rubber for the front-end ?  The rear arm
bushings look fine, so I'll opt to let them there for now.

Thanks to all, from a new Olds guy.

Frank Boerger/'68 cutlass convertible

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 12:11:48 -0300
Subject: 69 parts

Anyone have a 69 antenna, non power? How about  NOS quarters?

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 18:29:00 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Dolt Mechanics- 69 442 engine 

and taqht is exactly why i have decided to put a Chevy 350 into the 
S-10/bravada...i wont have to swap trannies, and i can just find valve
covers with rockets on them...you may call it blasphemy, but it must be done...
                        zack
          
          
          You realize, of course, that at a minimum you have to use a 
          Rocket Block Chebby motor.....
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 19:05:45 -0300
Subject: Re: found overheating cause!! 

Oh man, who would have guessed that!!  Glad you found it.  Things like this 
are enough to turn you hair grey!

Any thoughts on how the impeller became loose enough to spin on the pump's 
shaft?

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

- ------------------------
It turns out that the new
waterpump's impeller was not attatched to the shaft.

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 19:29:29 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 parts 

At 12:11 PM 6/24/96 -0300, Chris Urban wrote:
>Anyone have a 69 antenna, non power? How about  NOS quarters?
>
>
>
>
>
>
Will the antenna off of a 69 Delta 88 work? I have to check if it is even
there though, never looked for it.


Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio					z28cfi@gwis.com
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power			jlabay@phoenix.kent.edu
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power
H/OCA member #0278A

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 20:16:39 -0300
Subject: RE: 69 parts

I'm not sure, but the 69 Cutlass one is oval shaped. What do you think?


- ----------
From: 	Jason P. Labay[SMTP:z28cfi@gwis.com]
Sent: 	Monday, June 24, 1996 6:29 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca; 'oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca'
Subject: 	Re: 69 parts

At 12:11 PM 6/24/96 -0300, Chris Urban wrote:
>Anyone have a 69 antenna, non power? How about  NOS quarters?
>
>
>
>
>
>
Will the antenna off of a 69 Delta 88 work? I have to check if it is even
there though, never looked for it.


Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio					z28cfi@gwis.com
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power			jlabay@phoenix.kent.edu
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power
H/OCA member #0278A

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <DAVEI@MAIL.IDT.NET>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 23:35:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Quarter panel advice

Frank Boerger wrote:
> > 
> Next question : Urethane or original rubber for the front-end ?  The rear arm
> bushings look fine, so I'll opt to let them there for now.
> 
> Thanks to all, from a new Olds guy.
> 
> Frank Boerger/'68 cutlass convertible

Frank, I put the polygraphite bushings from PST in my 67 Cutlass Conv. 
...love 'em the front end is incredibly tight, also used the KYB gas 
shocks and a steering box out of a Pontiac (2 1/2 to 3 turns lock to 
lock) can't believe how good it feels. Based on this I'd go with the poly

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 20:38:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Dolt Mechanics- 69 442 engine 

At 18:29 6.24.96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>and taqht is exactly why i have decided to put a Chevy 350 into the 
>S-10/bravada...i wont have to swap trannies, and i can just find valve
>covers with rockets on them...you may call it blasphemy, but it must be done...
>                        zack
>          
>          
>          You realize, of course, that at a minimum you have to use a 
>          Rocket Block Chebby motor.....

yeah, and as soon as i find the holy grail, i will let you know :)  
                        zack

------------------------------

From: Doug McClanahan <mcclan@wsdot.wa.gov>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 20:56:25 -0300
Subject: steering box

Someone wrote:
>Frank Boerger wrote:
> > 
> Next question : Urethane or original rubber for the front-end ?  The rear arm
> bushings look fine, so I'll opt to let them there for now.
> 
> Thanks to all, from a new Olds guy.
> 
> Frank Boerger/'68 cutlass convertible

>Frank, I put the polygraphite bushings from PST in my 67 Cutlass Conv. 
>...love 'em the front end is incredibly tight, also used the KYB gas 
>shocks and a steering box out of a Pontiac (2 1/2 to 3 turns lock to 
>lock) can't believe how good it feels. Based on this I'd go with the poly

Which make, model and year of a pontiac did you take the steering box from?  Also, 
please include your internet address so that I can bombard you with questions about your 
suspension.  Thanks!

Doug
mcclan@wsdot.wa.gov

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 22:19:01 -0300
Subject: Big Block 403s, and ignorant car salesmen... was Re: Definitions

>   "It's got a 403 big block"
> -I am totally clueless. Someone told me it's a 403 or a big block or something
> like that.
> 

	Ha!!  It's funny you should mention that...I had an experience with 
one such "403BB" about a month ago.  
	
	I was used car "shopping" (used car gawking would actually be more 
accurate, since neither me nor my friends can actually afford any more 
cars, but I digress..) when I spotted a 70 something Poncho T/A with "6.6 
Litre" boldly showing on the shaker hood.  Naturally, I gravitated tward 
the thing to get a closer look.  Hmm.  Looked better at a distance.  The 
thing needed paint *real* bad.  Oh well, not like I can afford it 
anyway.  
	
	As I was about to leave the thing, I was intercepted by one of the 
salesmen, and my friend who was also browsing came over to get a better 
look.  The sales guy said it "ran real good" and that it was a "real 
solid car" (see Chris' other definitions for an explanation of what 
these really mean!).  I commented to my friend that the 6.6 in it was an 
Olds 403, and that if the hood had said 6.6 on it, it was the Poncho 
400.  The sales guy responded with "Yea, this beauty has all the goodies...
power everything, T-Tops...the Big Block..."  Ha!

	It was hard to contain myself.  

	I don't know about anywhere else, but it seems like around here, 
half the time (if not more) I know more about the cars I look at (and 
ask about) than the sales people who try to "help" me.  Seems like 
poor form on their part.  Seems to me salespeople should know their 
product...or is it just me?  It's like the time I was gawking at a really 
nice 25th anniversary Daytona edition T/A with the same friend.  The 
sales guy said it had a small block...Well, not exactly, but I guess 
that turbo V6 *does* have a physically small block.  But still... :)
	
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 23:06:25 -0300
Subject: Getting the '70 back on the road

Well the time is almost near. 

After sitting in the garage for the last
3 months getting the block painted, replacing the factory intake,
collecting all the correct Olds power steering hardware and proper 
AC type water pump pulley, replacing the neon-orange plug wires,
getting the rear Alternator bracket and hunting down the right air 
cleaner, the '70 442 ragtop is ready to so some summer cruising.
Even in need of help, the Matador red on black color scheme really
suits this car. Once it is running and out of the garage, will take some pics
to be included with the '66 on Bryce's web page.

Will be pulling the Hookers (headers that is) off of it and replacing
them with the correct W and Z exhaust manifolds. Anybody interested in them?

Also ran across a set of Hardin/Marine aluminum valve covers, anyone
out there putting together an Olds powered boat?

My apologies to the list and the original sender of the Ford Drivers
survey, for my response to it. It had been a bad day and hit me the
wrong way. In the future I'll keep my opinions to myself...

Boyd

------------------------------

From: DrkSole@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 03:36:59 -0300
Subject: '73 Rally pac solved. 

Well, got the rally pac in.  Works fine, looks good. Had to completely
reorder the wires. For reference the order for changing wires when putting a 
77' rally pac in a '73 Cutlass Supreme is
Gray goes where the striped tan wire was
Green > grey 
blue > black
tan > pink
black > for seat belt light; tape end and move out of way.
pink > blue
brown > green 
tan w/stripe > tan

Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.
Also, does anyone out there know where I can get the header panel for a 
73 Cutlass, (not Supreme)? A friend of mine with a '73 H/O needs it since his
car had a Supreme front end when he bought it. Thanks..
DrkSole
'73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #213
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