To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/11/96 09:23:32 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #263


oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 11 August 1996       Volume 01 : Number 263


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "AUVAX7::RILES" <RILES%AUVAX7.decnet@auscam.amd.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 19:07:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Unusual Tabs on 72 Cutlass Convertible

If I understand what you are describing, my '71 convertible has them and I 
clip my seatbelt buckles to them when in not in use.

- -Robert

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:42:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Is everyone at Nats? 

In a message dated 96-08-08 12:25:24 EDT, lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey) writes:

>>I was wondering about that myself, but Greg has said that he often has
>>to unsubscribe AOLers due to mailbox problems. Greg? How many AOL accounts
>>are on the list?

Dan,

I get that when I send mail directly to an AOL member from AOL. If they are
offline for any amount of time, and their mailbox gets full, its gets kicked
back....ALONG WITH ALL THE OTHER MAIL YOU SENT!!!!!!!   I hate that! I have
to maintain my mailbox every 2-3 days (especially on this list), otherwise, I
would also be an offender !!

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:41:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Is everyone at Nats? 

In a message dated 96-08-08 12:25:24 EDT, tlentz@teknon.com (Tom Lentz)
writes:

>I'm not on AOL, although I am trying to collect enough AOL disks to 
>     build another garage out of  :-)

Tom,

I know what you mean. I've been using AOL for 5 years and I still get disks
from them as if I have never used it. I must have about 15 of them laying
around here.   DUH!

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:41:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Movies 

In a message dated 96-08-09 16:23:47 EDT, BLAINES@strata3d.com (Blaine
Sanders 5483) writes:

>>It was in a Steven King movie.  The liscense plate was something to the
>>effect of Hi Toned SOB.  I think the movie was The Dark Half???
>
>It must be "The Dark Half".  I rented "Needful Things" last night.  That
>wasn't it... still a great show, though!
>
>

BINGO!! I reneted the Dark Half and it is the movie!!!! Black 66 Toro with
chrome wheels. Not lot of screen time though. I just FF through the movie to
look for it. I will watch it later tonight in its entireity for the plot. It
looked EVIL though!. 

Later,

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:41:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Hey Toro-heads! 

In a message dated 96-08-08 18:17:04 EDT, tc75918@hpr169.mdhc.mdc.com writes:

>I believe they set a trap for it where they wired the face of a cliff
>with dynamite, then set somebody up for bait.  Lured the car to drive 
>off the cliff, the fired the dynamite and buried it.  May have been an
>old rock quarry or something.
>
>

Good memory Dan!!

I went to Blockbuster and they do not have it on thier computer. I will have
to ferrit it out somewhere else.

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:42:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Hey Toro-heads! 

In a message dated 96-08-08 16:27:20 EDT, lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert
Lawrence) writes:

>> I think it was Stephen King's "Needful Things".  Or maybe not.  It was
>> definitely a movie adaptation of a Stephen King novel, though.
>
>
Rented it last night..the car in there was Mercedes (circa 1950)

Spookie movie though! Although I have seen better good vs. evil plots before.
On the Toronado scale I give it a 3 (out of eight cylinders)!

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:42:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Hey Toro-heads! -Reply 

In a message dated 96-08-08 16:56:24 EDT, BLAINES@strata3d.com (Blaine
Sanders 5483) writes:

>Geeze, guys... I didn't mean to offend anyone.

Blaine,

No harm done. WE STILL LOVE MAN!

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:42:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Movies 

In a message dated 96-08-09 17:53:27 EDT, graham.stewart@utoronto.ca (Graham
Stewart) writes:

>Yup, Blaine it is The Dark Half (1993), I'm about 98% sure. 

Graham,

You can  now be 100% sure!  Thats the one alright!   (:

Sparky

------------------------------

From: John Thomas <johnt@csra.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 22:23:52 -0300
Subject: brakes and turnsignal problems with 72 Cutlass  

              Hi! I just bought a 72 cutlass 2 door hardtop that is about
90% restored.
The only problems are the brakes and the turnsignals. The brakes are front
and rear 
drums and the shoes were replaced and the rear wheel cylinders were rebuilt
before I 
got it. It has manual brakes and the brake pedal is very hard. It never goes
to the 
floor, but you prctically have to stand on the pedal to stop the car. 
         Also, the turnsignals do not work at all. The brake lights and tail
lights
work fine, but when the turnsignal lever is switched up or down nothing 
happens.
I've checked the fuses, the bulbs, and changed the blinker, but I still don't
have any turnsignals. Does anyone have any suggestions of how I can cure these 
problems? Any help would be appreciated.
                
                    Thanks,
                  John R. Thomas

                  johnt@csra.net

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 17:23:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Fw: '70 Olds 442 W-30

Gary Bowles wrote:
> 
> ----------
> > 
> >
> > I have the chance to buy an Olds 442 W-30 for about 6K.  I know these
> > are high performance cars and are relatively rare.  But I know little
> > more than that.  Were they ever used for racing?  What made a W-30 a
> > W-30?
> > The specific car I have found has a 455 with ram air, a QuadraJet carb,
> > posi-traction, radical cam (stock), BENCH seats, AUTO-trans,
> > air-conditioning and power windows to name a few options.  It
> > desperately needs paint and has minor rust behind the wheels in the
> > quarter panels.
> > The sooner you could respond, the better, because I feel that this deal
> > won't last.
> >
> > Thanks!!!
> >
> > Brad
> > 
Brad:

Those cars are rare.  They were probably always raced.  You should find 
'W30' in chrome behind the front wheel well within the stripes running 
front to rear through the side marker lights.  The fender wells should 
be red plastic.  The hood is fiberglass over a steel frame w/a ram air 
system going to the air cleaner.  A rubber seal locates the air cleaner 
to the hood when closed & a black plastic cover goes on the air cleaner 
w/a trap door that opens to let in the cooler air.  The intake is 
aluminum.  The dual exhaust goes through the bumper w/trumpet tips.  
Performance axles are the norm w/3.23 up through 3.91 or better.  The 
transmission should shift a little hard.  The camshaft is a little rough 
w/a definite rumble to the exhaust.  Disc brakes are standard w/heavy 
sway bars front & rear.  Heavy duty cooling is standard w/4 flue 
radiator, clutch fan, & shroud.

That is standard.  The rest could be any 442 type accessories.  I'm sure 
that someone has the codes for checking out the engine, D type heads, & 
transmission, distributor, & carburetor codes.  Missing any of the above 
standard parts could spell real money in replacement.  $6,000 isn't bad 
if it is really a W30 & is all there.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 23:09:30 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 Olds 442 W-30

Here is some info to help you out. The serial number is on the left door
hinge post. The body code numbers are as follows: 442 Sports Coupe        4477
                                                442 Hardtop Coupe     4487
                                                442 Convertible             
4467
Production was as follows:
                                                442 Sport Coupe
1,688           8.7%
                                                442 Hardtop Coupe  14,709
76.1%
                                                442 Convertible
2,933         15.2%
                                                                            
                                  ---------
                                                                            
                                  100%
The engine was a 455, 4bbl rochester. Carb model 4mv7040258 with A/T.
Compression was 10:5, 370hp@5200 and 500torque@3600. Transmission
3-spd-a(2.48 first, 1.48 second, 1.00 third.). On the automatic  the 3.42
rear was standard with the 3.23 optional, but standard with air
conditioning. The Hurst Dual Gate was an option. HotRod magazine in 1970 got
this car, with the A/T to do a 1/4 time of 13.98 at 100.78. The fiberglass
hood is standard in the W-30. Hope this helps........
At 05:46 PM 8/10/96 -0300, Gary Bowles wrote:
>I have the chance to buy an Olds 442 W-30 for about 6K.  I know these 
>are high performance cars and are relatively rare.  But I know little 
>more than that.  Were they ever used for racing?  What made a W-30 a 
>W-30?
>The specific car I have found has a 455 with ram air, a QuadraJet carb, 
>posi-traction, radical cam (stock), BENCH seats, AUTO-trans, 
>air-conditioning and power windows to name a few options.  It 
>desperately needs paint and has minor rust behind the wheels in the 
>quarter panels.
>The sooner you could respond, the better, because I feel that this deal 
>won't last.
>
>Thanks!!!
>
>Brad 
>
>bodog@napanet.net
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 23:13:46 -0300
Subject: Hurst Heritage books.... 

I was at the local big swap meet here today and came across a book dealer
out of Charlotte, NC called Midlife Classic Cars that was selling the Hurst
Heritage books for $11.00. I have been looking for this book everywhere and
finally found it. The number for anyone interested is 1-704-598-5113. He
said that he has about 35-50 books left.

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 23:26:06 -0300
Subject: Swap meet finds..... 

I went to the Randolph Parts Spectacular swap meet here in Randolph, OH
today and seen some goodies, but didn't have the money to but them:( Came
across a tri-power olds intake for $125, NOS 70, 71 and 72 rear bumpers for
$150 each. Factory chrome SS II wheels for $300. Only Hurst/Olds parts were
framed 75 t-tops and frameless 75 t-tops glass only, no metal. In general a
real lack of olds parts. Several cars for sale. A 68 442 for $7,500, 83 H/O
for $6,500 and others I can't remember. Iwas walking around with an
oldsmobile 442 shirt on and had several people approach me wanting to know
if I had parts. They were frustrated at the lack of Olds stuff. Did manage
to purchase a 75 and an 80 service manual, $60 for both. If anybody is in
the area on September 27, 28 and 29 there is a bigger swap meet at the
Canfield fairgrounds in Canfield, OH. My dad and I will be seting up at a
swap meet for the first time and have a TON of stuff we are taking. In fact
we will be taking the big semi-truck and flatbed trailer full of parts.  The
family towing business helps fill the trailer a little faster with parts to
sell. 

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28...the rebuilt salvage car.... 
(an 82 Z/28 in the body of an 88 IROC with 92 Z/28 ground effects)
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 23:36:50 -0300
Subject: 1980 442 W-30 research findings..... 

I told everyone Monday of a 1980 442 W-30  that I am considering buying.
Well I did some little fact finding on my own and came across some
interesting info. This car was produced, only 886 made. The paint scheme is
the same as the 79 H/O. Externally the only differences that I can see
between a 79 H/O and the 80 442 W-30 is that the 80 has 4 headlights and a
rear deck spoiler standard. There are 442 badges on the fenders, rear trunk
and interior door panels. Factory dual exhaust was standard and this car
still has the original muffler and pipes (it is from Arizona) and has 92,000
miles. This was the last year of the 442 until 1985. The car has the 350
with 3a heads. I was hoping to have the car last week but am having trouble
getting the money. I put $500 down to hold it and will try and round up the
money this week to complete the deal. I am paying $4000 for it and it is
show ready as it sets. I am worried about the guy selling it out from under
me before I get the full amount to him. Is there some law that forbids him
to sell it to someone else while my $500 is holding it? This is a used car
dealer lot, not a private sale. Thanks....!

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28...the rebuilt salvage car.... 
(an 82 Z/28 in the body of an 88 IROC with 92 Z/28 ground effects)
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <dink@infinet.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 19:50:03 -0300
Subject: Olds Recovered

Well they found my olds.   It had no rims, no stereo, no clubs, no 
tools.  But they left the MSD6a, msd wires, acell supercoil, etc..   
Must have been morons, or just wern't thinking.  Well  the Insurance 
guy totalled it, and gave me check for it.  

 While looking for a new ride I found a 83 Hurst/Olds with lighting rods and 
all for $8000.00. 
 The guy says he has too many cars and has to get rid of it.  It had 
about 75K miles on it, and had been repainted.  Is this a good deal 
or what?  He said the going price was about 10 ~12 or so.  He said he 
has to get rid of it, and tell anybody I know of that  might want it.  Anybody 
want it?


Later,
  Dink

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Dink                 Dayton, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~dink
/////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 16:56:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass brakes

At 12:17 AM 8/10/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Dave,
>
>He finally took it
>to a older brake shop and they fixed the problem by connecting the master
>cylinder rod to the OTHER hole on the brake pedal.  They explained that at
>some point he had taken away some of the pedal's  mechanical advantage.
>
>Scot Swanson  

My pedal only has one hole...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 17:10:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Movies

At 08:41 PM 8/10/96 -0300, you wrote:

>BINGO!! I reneted the Dark Half and it is the movie!!!! Black 66 Toro with
>chrome wheels. Not lot of screen time though. I just FF through the movie to
>look for it. I will watch it later tonight in its entireity for the plot. It
>looked EVIL though!. 

>Sparky

I rented both "The Dark Half" and "Needful Things" this weekend.  No
Oldsmobiles in NT, but that Toro in TDH, what a car!  Never really had a
good look at one (that I can remember).  Was considering a 67 Cutlass for my
next car purchase, but now I'll probably be looking for a 66 Toro.  What an
awesome machine!  That car is _very_ sharp.  The movie wasn't too bad
either.  Probably not as good as the book.  Stephen King books usually
translate into rather corny movies...  
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 00:50:30 -0300
Subject: Re: brakes and turnsignal problems with 72 Cutlass  

At 10:23 PM 8/10/96 -0300, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca wrote:

>......

> Also, the turnsignals do not work at all. The brake lights and tail
> lights work fine, but when the turnsignal lever is switched up or 
> down nothing happens.  I've checked the fuses, the bulbs, and 
> changed the blinker, but I still don't have any turnsignals.

> Does anyone have any suggestions of how I can cure these problems? 

I'm not an Olds man, but I've helped my buddy work on his Cutlas.
There are a couple of possibilities that I can thing of based on
what you've done.

1. Your turn signal switch has seen better days.  To check this you'll
probably have to pull the steering wheel.   You'll need to find where the
wire for the turn signals come out on the connector at the bottom of the
steering column.
    a. Using a volt meter, check that you have 12V to the turn
       signal switch in the column.
    b. If "a" is good, set the turn signal for a left turn and check
       for 12V at the appropriate wire on the connector on the column.
    c. There is a very small switch mounted in the steering col.  It's
       inclosed in plastic, between 1/8" and 1/4" square by about 1"
       long.  If this is stuck or shot, the brakes, flasher and or the
       turn signals will not work.

John

 
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!

------------------------------

From: CMatt95460@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 01:11:50 -0300
Subject: 73 Cutlass 

    I own a 1973 Olds Cutlass S.  I have owned the car for 5 years now, and I
am just begining restoration.  It has a 350, quadrajet, 350 trans, it's
pretty much all original equipment.  When I bought the car, it had been kept
in a barn for 5 years, so the paint is pretty much crap, but it has very
little rust.  It had 76,000 miles when I bought it for $1200.  I had to
completely replace the brakes.  Since then I have added Cragar S/S rims and
wider tires.  It had been my daily driver in the summer months for the last
five years, now it has just over 90,000 miles.  This spring I decided I
wanted to started putting some money into restoring it.  I had the swivel
buckets re-upholstered, put in a nice new stereo and new speakers, and laid
down new carpeting.  Then, I decided to fix the one problem that the engine
had, a cracked exhaust manifold that produced a dreadful ticking sound.  Only
the best for my Olds, I thought, ordering the most expensive ceramic coated
headers for it.  I've had the headers for about 4 months now and have yet to
get them on.  
     The driver's side went one with little trouble.  I did have to remove
the starter, and discard the starter heat sheild.  I now plan to get a mini
starter so that there is more clearance for the wires.  The passenger side
has been the real problem.  Two bolts broke off in the head.  One is broken
off flush, the other has just had the head of the bolt snapped off, so I
figured if I could get the header on, I could just tighten a nut onto that
bolt and it would get me around for a while, until I had the money to have
the head removed and get the bolts taken out properly.  Well, the next
obstacle was the oil filter. The stock size it way too large to allow the
header to fit.  So I considered a relocator kit, and then found a filter from
a renault straight six that is only about an inch tall, but fits my car.
 Problem solved, I thought.  So, I drained the oil, removed the filter, and
the arm that the filter sits on, and found that the header still doesn't have
enough room to get into place.  Does anyone out there have any ideas???
    I had considered unbolting the engine, and using a cherry picker to raise
it enough to get the header in, or just completely tearing my engine apart
and rebuilding it, something I had planned to do eventually anyway, just not
now.  It does leak a little oil and trans, plus the bolts broken off in the
head could be fixed if I did that.
     Any ideas would be appreciated!  Also, I could use an " S " hood for my
car, and a front bumper.  

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 01:30:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered

At 07:50 PM 8/10/96 -0300, Dink wrote:
>Well they found my olds.   It had no rims, no stereo, no clubs, no 
>tools.  But they left the MSD6a, msd wires, acell supercoil, etc..   
>Must have been morons, or just wern't thinking. 

They took what they could sell on the aftermarket. Not much resale value on
the blackmarket for the MSD6a, wires, etc. Calling them morons is a nice
term though......

 Well  the Insurance guy totalled it, and gave me check for it.  

Is there body damage? interior damage? I can get you Delta parts rather
easily as we get alot of them

> While looking for a new ride I found a 83 Hurst/Olds with lighting rods
and all for $8000.00. 

Ok price, I see them cheaper here with original paint. I saw a 1984 H/O in
the national Deals on Wheels classifieds for $3450. The picture of the car
looked great ...kinda hard to believe. 
>
>Later,
>  Dink

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28...the rebuilt salvage car.... 
(an 82 Z/28 in the body of an 88 IROC with 92 Z/28 ground effects)
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A

------------------------------

From: Ross Campbell <rossc@netwizards.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:41:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Question: Standard vs Deluxe?

PMRjr@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Since I am still looking for 1966-1967 toronados.  I found several 1966
> Toronados they are standard, deluxe, standard and deluxe then I can not
> decide which one I want.. because I like both based on the condition of
> unrestored cars.  I was told that Today's 1966 Toronado" standard" is rare
> right now because they produced less than 5000 Standard Toronados  in 1965
> which was small number than Deluxe's. I am not sure it's correct, I  <snip>

I've seen the standards in the junkyards. Basically, it's just got less
neat power gadgetry. No power seat, no power mirrors, etc... If you had
a choice, choose the deluxe. I think all of those power options are part
of what make the 66 Toronado so neat!

Ross Campbell
Owner of a sad, old, rusty 66 Toronado.

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:58:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing - Engine In 

>Craig Dobbins wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>>   Does anyone out there have any experience doing a full detail job under 
the
>> hood with the engine still in? 
>
>]For the stuff to 
>use try The Eastwood Company in Penn., call them at (800)345-1178 for a 
>free catalog
>
>Chris M.

Eastwood also has a web site, but I lost their bookmark with two DOS
partitions on the master HDD.  A search should turn them up.



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:58:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Legislation 

So, are palmetto bugs what's used for croutons in FL?  Sounds like a good
name for abandoned VWs.

>Spud wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah, but it would probably smell mildewed, like the hotel rooms.
>
>OK, how 'bout a Palmetto bug?
>
>The 66 Toro and Mike

>-- 
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:58:50 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Suspension questions 

>
>On 8/6, Blaine Sanders wrote:A
>
>>I need to redo my whole front end suspension.  Who makes an excellent
>>quality poly-graphite bushing kit for a decent price?  Is bushing
>>replacement a difficult proceedure?  Can it be done by one person that
>>has never done it before?  Thanks.
>
>Blaine, 
>
>The real chore on my car (remember, there was no engine, no body, no weight on
>the frame), was to decompress, and re-compress the front springs.

I 100% agreee with this.  When I did the front end on my Delat 88 (body on
frame), this was the most difficult part.  Rather than buying a compression
tool, I forced and monkied around ubtil I got them in.  Next time, I'll buy
the tool (or rent, if I can find them cheap enough); so should you.  You can
get pairs of them for anywhere from $40 to what ever you're willing to pay,
depending on the style and source.  Look over the design carefully and make
sure you're confident it will perform, be easy to use and not fly apart on
you.  Also make sure its geometry is compatible with you car (another ease
of use part).

The other problem I encountered was the holes in the lower control arms to
rivet on the ball joints was larger than the holes in the replacement ball
joints and the bolts that came with them.  I just did the best I could, but
were I to face the same situation again, I'd try to bush the hole in the
control arm [sounds like a Resto Tip(tm)].  There wasn't enough metal in the
area around the holes in the replacement ball joints to make drilling them
out a worthy consideration.  I don't remember the brand of ball joints, but
they were from a trustworthy name brand company; shame, that.

Another interesting facet was that the nuts holding the pivot shaft for the
upper control arm were out of round (I don't know if the factory did this or
not, but may have, since I got the car with 88k on the odo).  I had to
struggle to get them off and wasn't able to start them on the threads at
reinstalltion.  I retapped them, after hitting them with a hammer to round
them out.  Shouldn't have.  They backed off more than once, so I replaced
them with a nyloc style nut.

>I have air tools in my shop

Not a necessity, but nice, if you've got them.  I used a 1/2" ratchet and a
piece of pipe as a cheater bar.  I now have an 18" breaker bar that I'm sure
would do the job nicely.
>
>Frank Boerger
>'68 Cutlass convertible/'68 coupe-for-parts
>"Now covering at least 2 acres east of Tallahassee, FL "

Whole job took a weekend and a couple of nights after work.  I could
probably do it in a day now, with the spring compressor.

BTW, I got the PST catalog in the mail the dayu after my last post.  Blaine
already has one.  Steele rubber is primarily aimed at the much older car
(30's to 50's).  For others interested, PST has a web site that you can
order their catalog from at http://www.p-s-t.com.

Happy wrenching!


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: "Gary Bowles" <bodog@napanet.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:59:48 -0300
Subject: Hurst Dual Gate???

I am thinking of getting a '70 Olds 442 W-30 with an AT.  People have
mentioned the Hurst Dual Gate, but I haven't a clue of what it is.  Please
explain what it is.
Thanks.

Brad.

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 01:58:24 -0300
Subject: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement 

Hello,
  I own a '68 442 convert, all matching #'s, has the original 400 engine.  I 
know from experience that these engine's run hot.  I picked up a 7-blade Olds 
fan w/clutch (not sure if from a '68 or '70 or '71, but one of those) for 
almost nothing.  I want to replace my 4-blade with the 7-blade to keep the 
engine cooler.  Is there anything I should know before I just start 
wrenching?  Should I leave the origianl clutch in there, or replace the whole 
thing or what?  If anyone knows anything about this, please write back to me, 
I'd appreciate it.

                                                   Craig Dobbins
                                                    '68 442 convert.

------------------------------

From: Jon442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 09:56:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Hurst Dual Gate??? 

<< I am thinking of getting a '70 Olds 442 W-30 with an AT.  People have
 mentioned the Hurst Dual Gate, but I haven't a clue of what it is.  Please
 explain what it is.
 Thanks.
  >>

The Hurst Dual Gate is a special console automatic shifter that is found in
only a few Oldsmobiles in the late '60s and early '70s. It is easily
identified by the second slot, or gate, that is to the right of the normal
PRNDSL gate. When the shifter is moved over to the right gate and pulled all
the way back, the car is in first gear. When you are ready to shift into
second, slap the shifter forward, and the car goes into second gear. The
advantage of the Dual Gate is that the car cannot be overshifted, because
there is a detent that prevents the shifter from going past second. When the
shifter is released, it springs over to the left slightly and is now ready
for the slap up into third gear. Because the right gate only has first,
second and third gears, it cannot be accidentally shifted into neutral,
reverse or park. 

Jon Wessel
Director
Hurst/Olds Club of America

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 10:36:04 -0300
Subject: Re: I Made It Back!

> Welcome back, Tim! BTW, were you on the Cape last week with "Big Red"? On
> vacation with my '69 Toronado in Dennisport, I pulled up to a light next to
> a '67 convert driven by a blonde-headed person; was that yours?

T'weren't me, Bob -- I haven't been  down the Cape since early June, and
won't be again until next Sunday (8/13) -- and at this point it'll be sans
Big Red :( (logistics of transporting kids, in-laws, bicycles & such sort
of preclude it this year).  Besides, I'm not blonde -- but I know a few
blonde jokes, does that count? :)


You saw a red '67 ragtop in Dennisport, eh?  I'll be in Brewster, next
town over from Dennis.  If it's owned by a local, maybe I'll see when I'm
there...

> 
> -----------
> - Bob Barry
> - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
> - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)
> 
> 


Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'88 Cadillac Brougham, a.k.a. 'Big Blue' -- Olds 307 Powered!!
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <dink@infinet.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 08:09:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered

> Is there body damage?
all the locks were punched out, and the trunk lid was beat up pretty 
good.

> interior damage?
yeah, they knived  all kinds of gang crap in the seats and the 
armrests.

> I can get you Delta parts rather easily as we get alot of them
well, thanks for thinking of me, but i guess this is a sign to move 
on to something else, maybe?

> Ok price, I see them cheaper here with original paint. I saw a 1984 H/O in
> the national Deals on Wheels classifieds for $3450. The picture of the car
Hey, now that's not bad.  I don't know what i'm going to buy now.  I 
need a daily driver, that gets good gas mileage and crap like that.



Dink

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Dink                 Brunswick, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~dink
/////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------

From: "Jeff Hunter" <jchunter@xcelco.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 12:00:44 -0300
Subject: '68 Toro for sale

Found this on rec.autos.antique and thought some of you may have an
interest:

Power Windows,Seat,Antenna,etc....
This is not a parts car, runs great
Some spare parts...$1000.00 Firm
Call Mark @ 604-530-4006 after 5:30pm Mon-Fri

Thanks
- -Jeff Hunter
jchunter@xcelco.on.ca

------------------------------

From: "David Morton" <dmorton@rci.rutgers.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 14:57:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

O.k., that answers my question, I think-- since I havent' got a manual, and 
I'm too lazy to get under the car and scrape off all the grease, I don't 
know how the ball joints are held on the a-arm on this car-- sounds like 
they are riveted in, but also pressed in?  I'm not familiar with this 
tool you mention (not the "pickle fork" for separating the ball joint, but 
the cup-shaped thing).  Is this commonly available?

Dave

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 15:54:07 -0300
Subject: Fwd: Introduction 

a "pickle fork" also called a ball joint or tie rod seaperator is available
at most auto parts stores to but or some stores let you use them for
free(western auto i think)
or you can also but them at sears they carry one made by lisle that has all
three sizes and can be used with a sledge hammer or a air hammer( whole set
about$30 or the single forks about $15
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	dmorton@rci.rutgers.edu (David Morton)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-11 14:00:01 EDT

O.k., that answers my question, I think-- since I havent' got a manual, and 
I'm too lazy to get under the car and scrape off all the grease, I don't 
know how the ball joints are held on the a-arm on this car-- sounds like 
they are riveted in, but also pressed in?  I'm not familiar with this 
tool you mention (not the "pickle fork" for separating the ball joint, but 
the cup-shaped thing).  Is this commonly available?

Dave

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 16:25:04 -0300
Subject: Fwd: clarification 

snap on makes a ball joint press set for 1971 thru current with 9 different
adaptors that is similar to a universal press==part # CJ76C for about $350 

matco makes a set part # BJP7025 that comes with 5 different adaptors for
about $150
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	dmorton@rci.rutgers.edu (David Morton)
To:	STEE911@aol.com
Date: 96-08-11 15:09:03 EDT

Pickle forks are of course familiar.  The question I have is about the 
_other_ tool that several people have mentioned.  Apparently it is a 
small, portable press for sqeezing pressed-in ball joints out of 
a-arms  . . That is to say, NOT a "pickle fork," not the tool for 
separating the tapered, threaded shaft from the spindle assembly.

So, the question stands:  what _is_ this strange tool people are 
describing for removing the ball joint from the control arm?

Dave

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 16:38:19 -0300
Subject: classified ad humor 

Opened the paper this morning and looked at the cars for sale and came
across this joke of an ad.

1981 Hurst/Olds, original 425 V8, only 6,000 original miles, cragers, 3.42
rear, complete restoration from radiator to rear end. $4,500.

....thats a pretty good price for an ultra rare car with a production run of
0........:)

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28...the rebuilt salvage car.... 
(an 82 Z/28 in the body of an 88 IROC with 92 Z/28 ground effects)
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 11:49:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

David Morton wrote:
> 
> O.k., that answers my question, I think-- -- sounds like
> they are riveted in, but also pressed in?  I'm not familiar with this
> tool you mention (not the "pickle fork" for separating the ball joint, but
> the cup-shaped thing).  Is this commonly available?
> 
> Dave

Dave:

Only the origials will be riveted on.  Replacements are bolted on.  My 
brother-in-law loaned me these cast bell shaped tools that are used to 
hammer in the pressed ball joints evenly without damaging the joints.  
Knowing him he got them from Snap On (expensive).  They were rather 
simple w/a flat end for hammering & a ringed edge to go around the 
outside of the joint w/a depression (cup shape) to allow the joint to 
stick up in the tool.  Some use an old socket of the correct size, but 
that is a little hard on sockets.  Possibly a parts house may loan you a 
set.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Gary Bowles" <bodog@napanet.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 17:19:50 -0300
Subject: Hardened valve seats VS compression ratio

I am now buying a '70 Olds 442 W-30.  It has a rebuilt 455.  When the guy
had it rebuilt, he had the valve seats hardened.  He claims this lowers
the compression ratio from 10.5 to about 9.5.  Is this true?  I know
motors, and the rebuild process, but I have never heard of a valve seat
hardening to change the compression ratio.  No other items have been
changed from the stock specks(i.e. rods, crank, piston heads, etc.) to
change the compression.  So is the compression really lowered?
Thanks
Brad

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 17:59:40 -0300
Subject: Fwd: Hardened valve seats VS compression ratio 

i have never heard that you can harden valve seats
as far as i know you have to install hardened seats to prevent burning
unhardned seats when using unleaded gas unless you use a addative to the gas
i dont think that this would change the compression ratio unless excessive
machining was performed to shave or mill the head surface possibly because of
a warped head surface<<you can make up for this with a gasket and
spacer<<available thru fel-pro
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	bodog@napanet.net (Gary Bowles)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-11 16:21:09 EDT

I am now buying a '70 Olds 442 W-30.  It has a rebuilt 455.  When the guy
had it rebuilt, he had the valve seats hardened.  He claims this lowers
the compression ratio from 10.5 to about 9.5.  Is this true?  I know
motors, and the rebuild process, but I have never heard of a valve seat
hardening to change the compression ratio.  No other items have been
changed from the stock specks(i.e. rods, crank, piston heads, etc.) to
change the compression.  So is the compression really lowered?
Thanks
Brad

------------------------------

From: "Gary Bowles" <bodog@napanet.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 21:24:16 -0300
Subject: engine specs

I am trying to find the camshaft duration/lift specs for a '70 olds 455
from a 442 W-30.  The W-30 cam specs are different than the regular 442
cam.
hanks
Brad

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #263
********************************
 
