To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/07/96 05:20:14 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #259


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 7 August 1996      Volume 01 : Number 259


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 13:25:39 -0300
Subject: I'm baaaaaack!

	Hey everyone!

Made it back safely from my trip to California yesterday!  I'm so starved 
for my fix of both this list and working on my Olds, I've been going 
through some serious withdrawls.  Coming back to find 896 messages in my 
inbox calmed my nerves a little though :).

	Anyway, the trip was fun, and the only car trouble I had was a 
voltage regulator that went bad, and a muffler that fell off.  Not bad 
for a Chubby ;).  Anyway, I did make it to Hot August Nights in Reno on 
the second.  It was awsome!  For thoes who don't know, it's one of the 
biggest cruise night/car show type events in the west.  They block off 
the whole downtown to let all these classic cars cruise while Jerry Lee 
Lewis is blasted over a PA system.  They even had a fireworks show!  It 
was a lot of fun.

	At the car show, there was (predictably, I suppose) just about every 
Corvette and 55-57 Chubby from this half of the world.  GTOs and such 
were also pretty well represented.  Lots of hot rods too.  Oldsmobiles 
were about equal to Buicks in number, which wasn't much :(.  Only found a 
couple mid 50s cars, one 59 convertable (nice!) only (!) 442.  Of course, 
I was only there on one day, and the cars come and go so there were 
probibly more there, but I missed them.  But anyway, it was cool just to 
see so many old cars at one time.  And most of them were in really nice 
shape.  Made for a lot of good pictures.

	Anyway, I'm going to get back to reading my messages.  Just skimming 
through them, it looks like I have a lot of reading about leaking Q-Jet 
plugs, and something about glowing exhaust manifolds.  :)

			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98
	

	P.S.-- The tire chart is still inthe works! 

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 13:53:48 -0300
Subject: Fwd: 1968 400 C.I. engine 

you need hardened valve SEATS to be able to run todays unleaded pump gas
without them you will burn ex valves and/or seats
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
CC:	kissrulz@gnn.com
Date: 96-08-05 23:50:08 EDT

STEE911@aol.com WROTE:

>if the engine is indeed original you definatly need to have the heads
>reworked so you can have hardened valve seats installed

I'm not so certain about this.  When I went to have the heads done on my '73
Delta 88, I asked several people about the valve guides.  I was told by
everyone that had a knowlegeable answer, that GM used hardened valve guides
in all their engines since sometime in the mid- to late fifties.  So?  Not
so?

Spud
'86 FXST
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:04:50 -0300
Subject: The Idiots Among Us.... (long) -Reply

>Maybe a one-car accident when he's driving alone will solve that
>problem someday. Those Jeeps are awfully unstable, I hear... 

You know, he probably *can't* drive alone.   The "big beefy guy shaped
like a bowling ball" has to have his wife and kid in there to balance out
the weight...  Otherwise it would be like the Flintstones at the Bedrock
Diner when they order the dino ribs. ;-)

- -BS

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:04:25 -0300
Subject: Fwd: Smoke from tailpipes 

most likely the mod vac line is connected to a single runner on the
intake==follow this line and check if the plug is fouling more than the
others==this is a easy fix
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Daniel Gulino)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-06 10:20:32 EDT

Another possibility for white smoke from the tailpipe is transmission 
fluid being drawn into the intake manifold due to a leaking vacuum 
modulator.  Check your transmission fluid level.



Dan Gulino

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:28:42 -0300
Subject: Rear Sway Bar & Body Flex?

All this talk about the flexy 78-88 G-bodies makes me think... if you've 
never driven a convertible, you haven't had flex yet. Just by nature they 
are far more flexible than any closed car that I've driven to date. I've 
thought that maybe I'd like to try stiffening up mine somehow and have 
thought about the rear frame reinforcements they sell through the catalog 
places, but Dal Allen has them and tells me they didn't do very much. If 
there's something cheap that works I might consider it.

Would anyone happen to know whether a rear sway bar and boxed lower
control arms might add a little stiffness? I know it will help stiffen up
the handling so I might want to do it anyway, but will it also reduce the
body flex? Any other suggestions on this? We're talking a '64 A-body
here... 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:44:13 -0300
Subject: Re: The Idiots Among Us.... (long)

Greg,

Boy, I could write a book on these idiots  (as I'm sure the rest of you 
could).  But every cloud has it's silver lining:  The wife and kid had to 
go home with him  -- you're only stuck with a bad memory.

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> Okay, this is the point where I will pick up the cellphone and call the
> cops. 

I've found it very effective to call them in as a possible DUI.  Whenever 
I've called to report a jerk, I pretty much get a "ho-hum" from the 
dispatcher.  But a DUI!  Now that's something they can sink their 
teeth into!  Lights!  Sirens!  Videotape!  BAT!  Court apprearances!  The 
dispatcher didn't even want me to get off the phone until they had the 
car in sight.  The guy didn't get a mile away before Deputy Dog had him 
pulled over.  NNnNN.

> Sorry about not reposting the whole damn article all over again...

That's OK, Andy.  I've got five more copies if you need one.  ;)

> Dunno what came over me...

It happens.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:49:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Legislation

Spud wrote:
> 
> Spread some of that goodness out West, Mike.

I'm in Florida.  We DID make income 
taxes and gill-nets unconstitutional.

I could send you a box of sand...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:29:29 -0300
Subject: Diesels (was Legislation)

I thought that Die&Sells were actually much better for the environment
than gasoline-powered mobiles.  Used to be (don't know if its still
true), you could get a big tax credit by proving the purchase of a new
diesel.  Sure, the exhuast LOOKS bad, coming out all sooty, but its
mostly just carbon and water, correct?

- -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------==============================
                                

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:34:45 -0300
Subject: G-body frames

> Of course, you can box and strengthen the
>stock frame

Can you elaborate here?  Not sure what you mean by "box and strengthen."
 Basically, what you're saying is, there's no significant improvement to
be had in this frame short of a roll cage.  I'm not going to do a roll
cage for a daily driver, but if there's anything else that isn't too
bulky or involved that will help me reduce the flex, I want to look into
it.

- -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------==============================
                                

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eol.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:10:40 -0300
Subject: Article

Hey Greg Beaulieu, while at the all Olds show in 
Olds, Alberta, I noticed an article in a magazine 
sitting on the seat on one of the cars that I 
thought had your name as the author.  The magazine 
was your standard 8.5 x 11" size and the pages were 
glossy and I believe the articles subject was on 
the internet.

Was that you?
What was the magazine/issue?

SG Hartfelder
1938 Olds - Street Rod

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:45:29 -0300
Subject: Body Flex 

Have been thinking about the frame flex problem on my 98 conv. I've 
magnaflux checked and replaced most of the moving suspension bits and
it seems that much of the somewhat unnerving flex is in the 320,000
mile old frame. As a conv. it was heavy duty to start with, but I
don't think even GM in the 60's was designing for such mileage on 
anything buy maybe enclosed taxi cabs. 

On mine there is a cross member which runs just underneath the drivers
seat horizontal between the two rails. It's welded with a rubber mount
to each rail. The member has bent substantially at each mounting point.
It clearly looks wrong, but I'm not sure what to do about this. Ideas?

Also I ran it 200 mi. or so at freeway speeds (70-80mph) this weekend
and lane changes and road bump oscillations caused me to slow down at
several points. Well, I can't have that, so has anybody welded in 
reinforcements to the fram rails, X members or other solutions?

Sure would love to stiffen up the frame and get some of that shake
and shimmy out of this car. 

Look forward to your ideas
TIA
chris fair

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:49:00 -0300
Subject: FW: Diesels (was Legislation)

From: 	Shawn Twomey
Sent: 	Tuesday, August 06, 1996 1:37 PM
To: 	"'olds list'"
Subject: 	Diesels (was Legislation)

Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

>I thought that Die&Sells were actually much better for the environment
>than gasoline-powered mobiles.  Used to be (don't know if its still
>true), you could get a big tax credit by proving the purchase of a new
>diesel.  Sure, the exhuast LOOKS bad, coming out all sooty, but its
>mostly just carbon and water, correct?@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no 
try."  

Absolutely correct, Shawn !

Carbon, water vapor, and CO2 only...you won't get carbon monxide poisoning from
a diesel, either...but I  still  like my oldsmobile !!

Frank Boerger

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:52:10 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body frames

As part of the downsizing effort GM undertook in the late 70's on these 
cars, the frames were significantly weakened, both on these and on the 
bigger B and C bodies. I remember (dinosaur that I am) reading an article 
in one of the magazines in '76 or '77 when these were introduced where 
this was discussed. The author said that the GM engineers had a sample 
frame on display at the long-lead preview and that you could kick one end 
and the other would wiggle. Nice feature!

The other issue with these cars is susceptibility to frame rot since it
seems the metal stock they used so thin to begin with. I ran across an '84
(?) LeSabre in a junkyard here a while back with 24,000 miles on it.
Looked absolutely mint. The junk guy said it was, except the frame was
totally gone and it wasn't worth replacing it... sad.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 14:20:00 -0300
Subject: Re: The Idiots Among Us.... (long) 

>> Okay, this is the point where I will pick up the cellphone and call the
>> cops. 
>
>I've found it very effective to call them in as a possible DUI.  Whenever 
>I've called to report a jerk, I pretty much get a "ho-hum" from the 
>dispatcher.  But a DUI!  Now that's something they can sink their 
>teeth into!  Lights!  Sirens!  Videotape!

Actually I don't need to label 'em as a DUI (I've had to make this call
maybe two or three times over the past, oh, four years or so that I've
had a phone in the car); all I need to do is give the dispatcher a running
commentary of whatever I'm seeing, and they're convinced. After all, it 
takes a serious wacko to get me to pick up the phone in the first place, 
so I don't have to wait too long for him to do something stupid again
while I'm on the phone.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 15:25:59 -0300
Subject: 69 Olds Rear End (Attn: B. Culp)

Date: Tue, 6 Aug 96 10:18:57 -0500
Message-Id: <H000018e0046a082@MHS>
Subject: Olds Rear End
TO: bculp@hiwaay.net
Encoding: 42 text

Mr. Culp

I am in Huntsville, AL.  Right now I am at work.  It is probably a
matter of time until I get busted and thrown off of the mailing list. 
My computer is "for official use only"

I live in Toney, AL.  I bought the Olds about a two months ago.

I have the axle codes for the 1969 models in the shop manual.  I don't
know about the codes for 1968 rear ends.  I have a restoration book at
home.  I will look in there to see if I can find the codes for 1968 rear
ends.  My axle code was stamped on the axle housing in 1/4 inch letters.
 It was on the passenger side about 1/2 way between the differential and
the wheel.  It was toward the top of the axle housing.

My rear end is presently an open differential.  The clutch disks have
been worn out.  I went to Bill Penny Olds in Huntsville and got the
clutch disk pack ($83.75). I then ordered a rebuild kit from Drive Train
Specialists (DTS) in MI.  Their kit has a pinion seal and all the
bearings for the differential as well as some shims.  That kit cost me
$60 + another $8 for shipping.

I don't have enough faith in myself to attempt to tear apart the rear
end and rebuild it.  It looks like a monster from the instructions in
the shop manual.  There are all kinds of dial indicators and shim
measurements required. I am willing to let some one more qualified set
up the rear end.  If I messed it up,  there are no replacement parts (no
ring and pinion gear suppliers that I know of).  I talked to a shop
about doing the work.  They said it would be about $250 - $300 in labor.
By the time I get finished I will have around $410 to $460 in the rear
end. OUCH!

I am apprehensive of swapping my gears, or rear end, for someone else's
because the parts are so hard to find.  I would kind of like to keep my
3.42s and buy some 3.91s.  That way if I just couldn't stand the taller
gears, I could switch back.  And if I got some faulty 3.91s that broke,
then I could put my 3.42 back in.  I know that they are o.k.

If you find an axle code on your 68 I will try to find out
what gear you are supposed to have.

John Harris

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:28:17 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body frames

This I have seen first hand many times. Just a year ago we junked a 1980
Cutlass Supreme that was beautiful inside and out with 34,000+ miles. It
could have been a show car with minor work. My dad went to pick it up with
the forklift and -snap- the rear frame fell to the ground...sad. We have not
had a 78-87 olds with a frame that was decent....all have major rust
somewhere. Even the rustproofed cars have rot. I had to get rid of my first
car, a 79 Cutlass Supreme, due to excessive frame rot.

>The other issue with these cars is susceptibility to frame rot since it
>seems the metal stock they used so thin to begin with. I ran across an '84
>(?) LeSabre in a junkyard here a while back with 24,000 miles on it.
>Looked absolutely mint. The junk guy said it was, except the frame was
>totally gone and it wasn't worth replacing it... sad.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
>
>

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28...the rebuilt salvage car.... 
(an 82 Z/28 in the body of an 88 IROC with 92 Z/28 ground effects)
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:34:18 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body frames 

At 01:34 PM 8/6/96 -0400, you wrote:
>> Of course, you can box and strengthen the
>>stock frame
>
>Can you elaborate here?  Not sure what you mean by "box and strengthen."
> Basically, what you're saying is, there's no significant improvement to
>be had in this frame short of a roll cage.  I'm not going to do a roll
>cage for a daily driver, but if there's anything else that isn't too
>bulky or involved that will help me reduce the flex, I want to look into
>it.

Whatever you do to strengthen your frame would be bulky, involved and
*expensive*. The frame on your car, for the most part, is a "C" channel
frame; a cross-section of the frame rail would look like a box with one side
cut out. Of course, earlier A-and G-body cars had the same type of frame,
but of heavier construction so there was not as much flexing.

When there were convertibles available, even the heavy-gauge C-channel
frames would flex, so they would "box" the frame, by constructing the frame
rails with box-section tubing (i.e. not missing the fourth side).

To "box" your frame rails, you would basically cut a piece of heavy-gauge
steel to cover the open side of the frame, and weld it in place.
Street-rodders do this all the time on '32 Fords etc.; a bit more
complicated, though, on a late-model Cutlass (unless of course, you are
doing a body-off restoration...).

You can, however, stiffen up the suspension pieces with boxed or tubular
items, for much less effort (and less $$$ if you are paying someone to do 
this).

Good luck!

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:45:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: 1968 400 C.I. engine

At 12:46 AM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:

>When I went to have the heads done on my '73
>Delta 88, I asked several people about the valve guides.  I was told by
>everyone that had a knowlegeable answer, that GM used hardened valve guides

>Spud

I believe they were talking about hardened valve SEATS, not hardened valve
guides...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:46:17 -0300
Subject: Re: The Idiots Among Us.... (long)

At 10:09 AM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Sorry about not reposting the whole damn article all over again, BTW;
>I dunno what came over me...
>
>Andrew C. Green 

You're forgiven...but this is the _LAST_ time!!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 15:42:09 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body frames 

>This I have seen first hand many times. Just a year ago we junked a 1980
>Cutlass Supreme that was beautiful inside and out with 34,000+ miles. It
>could have been a show car with minor work. My dad went to pick it up with
>the forklift and -snap- the rear frame fell to the ground...sad.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but are these cars supposed to be moved
around with forklifts? Put it another way: a frame hoist is supposed to
lift the car at somewhere near its wheels. Picking it up with a forklift
seems to put too much load in the middle; IMHO this will flatten the floor
pan and (rusted) frame rails in that area and allow the ends to collapse.
I don't doubt that there's a lot of breakage like this around junkyards
where cars are picked up in the middle, but here in Chicago, heart of the
rust belt, I don't see these same failures among rustbuckets on the street
which are still sitting on their wheels.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:50:27 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Diesels (was Legislation)

At 02:49 PM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>Sure, the exhuast LOOKS bad, coming out all sooty, but its
>>mostly just carbon and water, correct?

>Absolutely correct, Shawn !
>
>Carbon, water vapor, and CO2 only...you won't get carbon monxide poisoning 
from
>a diesel, either...but I  still  like my oldsmobile !!
>
>Frank Boerger

I thought the black exhaust from those busses, garbage trucks, etc. looks
thick and black from unburned fuel content. 
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:53:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Rear End (Attn: B. Culp)

At 03:25 PM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:

>I have the axle codes for the 1969 models in the shop manual. 
>John Harris

John,

If it's not too much trouble and you have a few minutes, could you post
those rear end codes for '69's?  I'd sure appreciate it!!

Thanks!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 16:59:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Diesels (was Legislation)

On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Shawn Twomey wrote:

> I thought that Die&Sells were actually much better for the environment
> than gasoline-powered mobiles.  

     Yep, just like SO2 and NOx is supposed to be better for the 
envirornment than just unburned hydrocarbons.  Lead is a non-issue nowadays.
   
> Sure, the exhuast LOOKS bad, coming out all sooty, but its
> mostly just carbon and water, correct?

    You've still got hydrocarbon waste.   If it wasn't for the oil lobby, 
mabye we could use efficient fuels such as M85 or CNG.  I know I 
would, but it's hard to find a place to buy these fuels.   

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 17:12:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear Sway Bar & Body Flex?

On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> All this talk about the flexy 78-88 G-bodies makes me think... if you've 
> never driven a convertible, you haven't had flex yet. Just by nature they 
 
    Agreed... my '71 CS was a flexbox before I did the frame and floor.

> Would anyone happen to know whether a rear sway bar and boxed lower
> control arms might add a little stiffness? I know it will help stiffen up

     I already had the sway bar on the open lower arms.  Installing a set 
of boxed arms just seemed to make the rear "tighter", but I don't think 
it did much for the overall rigidity of the car.

> Any other suggestions on this? 

     My '71 had a noticeable difference after replacing body mounts and 
the corrosponding rust in the floor.

> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 17:23:35 -0300
Subject: M85 and CNG

At 04:59 PM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:
>If it wasn't for the oil lobby, 
>mabye we could use efficient fuels such as M85 or CNG.  
>                     -->   Bob Valentine  <-- 

What are M85 and CNG?  
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 17:51:53 -0300
Subject: Guides 

I installed bronze valve guides and hardened valve seat to run the car on
unleaded
chris fair

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 17:43:26 -0300
Subject: RE: Rear Sway Bar & Body Flex?

Would anyone happen to know whether a rear sway bar and boxed lower
control arms might add a little stiffness? I know it will help stiffen up
the handling so I might want to do it anyway, but will it also reduce the
body flex? Any other suggestions on this? We're talking a '64 A-body
here... 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


Not really!!!
Roll cage?

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 17:48:12 -0300
Subject: RE: Body Flex

The best thing I have tried was to bolt together a large X shaped frame =
reinforcement. It started just ahead of both wheel humps and ended up =
near the front body mount holes. I welded tabs on the frame itself to =
which this crossmember was bolted. It must be flat enough to under the =
transmission crossmember and I put a loop in the center to go around the =
drive shaft as a safety loop. This considerably improved the frame =
stiffness but still not near as well as a roll cage ( evn a partila one =
) would=20

- ----------
From: 	Chris Fair[SMTP:ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, August 06, 1996 1:45 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Body Flex


Have been thinking about the frame flex problem on my 98 conv. I've=20
magnaflux checked and replaced most of the moving suspension bits and
it seems that much of the somewhat unnerving flex is in the 320,000
mile old frame. As a conv. it was heavy duty to start with, but I
don't think even GM in the 60's was designing for such mileage on=20
anything buy maybe enclosed taxi cabs.=20

On mine there is a cross member which runs just underneath the drivers
seat horizontal between the two rails. It's welded with a rubber mount
to each rail. The member has bent substantially at each mounting point.
It clearly looks wrong, but I'm not sure what to do about this. Ideas?

Also I ran it 200 mi. or so at freeway speeds (70-80mph) this weekend
and lane changes and road bump oscillations caused me to slow down at
several points. Well, I can't have that, so has anybody welded in=20
reinforcements to the fram rails, X members or other solutions?

Sure would love to stiffen up the frame and get some of that shake
and shimmy out of this car.=20

Look forward to your ideas
TIA
chris fair

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:15:02 -0300
Subject: Gear ratio question

How exactly does the gear ratio thing work?  Reason I'm asking is:  I
used to run stock diameter tires on my '72 Cutlass.  My speedometer
was correct, and I could easily bury it (120+ mph).  Now I have tires that
are much smaller diameter than stock, my speedo is off by 5-10 mph, and
my top speed with the motor wound out is 110 mph (which is actually
about 100 mph).  Should I change my gears up or down to get more
speed back?  (I haven't checked to see which ratio I currently have). 
Thanks.

- -Blaine S.
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:20:38 -0300
Subject: Suspension questions

I need to redo my whole front end suspension.  Who makes an excellent
quality poly-graphite bushing kit for a decent price?  Is bushing
replacement a difficult proceedure?  Can it be done by one person that
has never done it before?  Thanks.

- -Blaine S.
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: eda@dl.tc.faa.gov
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:23:35 -0300
Subject: Re: The Idiots Among Us..../ T-3 Lamps 

Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca> wrote:

> try rear-ending me and find myself wishing I had a lug wrench under the
> seat or some other device handy in case he does. Thru that set of lights

And you guys think I carry The Club for theft protection!!  Seriously, it
does come in handy - remember the woman who beat a would-be carjacker
half to death with one?  Were it not for him being stupid enough to pull that 
crap with his kid in the car (you'd think his wife would yank the keys on
him, you know?) I don't know that I'd wait until he rear-ended me to start 
swinging/throwing/shooting/whatever.  But I feel for you - how I would handle
the situation varies widely by what I'm driving - not only because of the
capabilities/limitations of each car, but because of how much damage I'm 
willing to risk, especially for the H/O.  Rejoice in the thought that he
will eventually succumb to his blood pressure and/or ulcers from getting
too torqued about nothing.  Hope that the kid gets the insurance money.

Incidentally, I meant to reply earlier about T-3 lamps - I posted something 
many moons ago describing the different types, from this same blurb & 
drawings, if you save articles or back issues - if not, I may have the back 
issue.  In any case, the September '94 issue of MuscleCars, pg. 14, "Muscle
Parts" section, says:

	Performance Years now stocks correct, original-style
	T-3 headlamps used on all GM cars from 1956-67.  They're
	correct down to the T-3 logo.  Prices range from $89-$99
	for a set of four.  Performance Years Inc., 320 Elm Ave.,
	Dept. MC994 (as in MuscleCars 9/94, heh, you could 
	have a little fun with that, keep 'em guessing...), 
	North Wales, PA 19454; 1-800-542-7278.

The part about having fun w/the dept. number is mine, not from the magazine,
of course.  The picture shows 3 different lamps, which I described in detail
in the long-ago post - let me know if you want me to try to dig it up.

Same page has blurbs on the corporate "Rocket Block", '64-'74 GM front-disc
brake conversions for GM, G-Body poly control-arm bushings by Energy 
Suspension, & a couple other items.  Also the issue w/part 2 of the Doc
Watson interview, a 442 burning rubber across the page with the subscription
coupon, and a one-pager "Alternative Muscle" feature on the '76-77 442's.
(Not to mention a nice '71 GS Convertible, restored by a reader, for you
Buick guys).  Anyone know if they still put this mag out?  Can't seem to
find it anywhere...

Easy on the road, guys, remember...it must be really hard on these poor 
people to be that stressed, or that pressed for time...

Ed Atlee			'77 Cutlass Supreme
eda@dl.tc.faa.gov		'84 Hurst/Olds
	R O C K E T	P O W E R E D ! !

oh, just this once:
'85 Pontiac Firebird 2.8 V6 (the migraine car...)
'88 Chrysler LeBaron, 2.5L 4-banger (the new daily driver - hey, it was FREE! 
Stop it guys, I know I promised, but it's 40 miles to work and the gas and...

;-)

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:27:46 -0300
Subject: Resto parts.

Anyone had any experience with Brothers Automotive?  They have quite
a few resto parts that I haven't seen in any other catalogs (i.e. - NOS
Dual Gate shifters/related parts, correct spec/# Q-Jet carbs, factory
455 D. Exhaust manifolds, etc.)  Does anyone know about the quality of
their resto parts?

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:49:55 -0300
Subject: Resto parts.

I have ordered a couple of things from them. I ordered a blue interior seat 
kit,
it took me 3 months to get, and a ram air hood screen, it took 5 weeks to get.
They have used manifolds, and probably expensive.    

Mike


__________________________________________________________________________

Anyone had any experience with Brothers Automotive?  They have quite
a few resto parts that I haven't seen in any other catalogs (i.e. - NOS
Dual Gate shifters/related parts, correct spec/# Q-Jet carbs, factory
455 D. Exhaust manifolds, etc.)  Does anyone know about the quality of
their resto parts?



- ----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 19:09:31 -0300
Subject: Resto parts. -Reply

>>> <mike.blankenship@medaphis.com> 08/06/96 03:49pm >>>
>I have ordered a couple of things from them. I ordered a blue interior
>seat kit, it took me 3 months to get, and a ram air hood screen, it took 5
>weeks to get. They have used manifolds, and probably expensive.    
>
>Mike

So, in other words, "they suck!"? =-)

- -BS

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 19:00:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: 1968 400 C.I. engine

You also need unleaded-compatible guides, however from what I've heard 
it's not economically sound to just yank the head and do the valvejob if 
you want to run unleaded.  Just run straight unleaded till the seat 
recedes then do the headjob, it will take a while and the money you save 
on lead additive can payfor the valvejob.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 19:16:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Diesels (was Legislation)

Exactly...with CNG (natural gas) or LPG (propane), you get a high-octane 
fuel that's gaseous (no emulsion problems), burns CLEAN (CO2 and H2O), 
and has nearly the equivalent BTU per gallon as gasoline (LPG has a tad 
less, CNG a tad more).  From what I've read, burning these gases in your 
engine is so clean, your oil doesn't get dirty, the chambers never carbon 
up, and your engine wears a lot slower.  Pull the heads after running it 
for thousdands of miles and the chambers are still shiny!  In fact when 
breaking in a motor intended to run on these fuels, it is suggested that 
you use gasoline so the rings and bores can break in correctly...

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:45:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Resto parts. 

At 06:27 PM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Anyone had any experience with Brothers Automotive?  They have quite
>a few resto parts that I haven't seen in any other catalogs (i.e. - NOS
>Dual Gate shifters/related parts, correct spec/# Q-Jet carbs, factory
>455 D. Exhaust manifolds, etc.)  Does anyone know about the quality of
>their resto parts?
>
I have seen their Dual Gate Shifters and they are slightly different than my
original one.  They do not have the three screw holes to bolt the chrome top
plate and are thus slightly shorter than the original.  They also do not
come with the chrome top plate.  That you would have to find somewhere else
as nobody makes a reproduction of that..yet.  Also, their dual gate does not
come with the two brackets (front and back) that support the unit to the
floor.  I've seen the black shifter knob that they sell and it looks good
but everybody else sells that part too ;)
The correct spec/# Q-Jet carbs are newly stamped new Carter carbs from what
I have heard and use slightly different parts than what was used back then
on the original Q-Jet's.
I don't know anything about their Dual Exhaust manifolds.
Hope this helps.

Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 20:06:13 -0300
Subject: RE: Fwd: 1968 400 C.I. engine

Your absoluteley right there Paul. 

- ----------
From: 	Paul R. K. Kuromoto[SMTP:suntzu@ohana.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, August 06, 1996 6:00 PM
To: 	STEE911@aol.com
Cc: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Fwd: 1968 400 C.I. engine

You also need unleaded-compatible guides, however from what I've heard 
it's not economically sound to just yank the head and do the valvejob if 
you want to run unleaded.  Just run straight unleaded till the seat 
recedes then do the headjob, it will take a while and the money you save 
on lead additive can payfor the valvejob.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 22:41:16 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 W30 faCTOR 

At 01:10 AM 7/28/96 -0300, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca wrote:
>So does anyone have any insights on how to distinguish a '68 W30
>from a plain jane 442? Aside from the motor of course, as this car
>did not come with the original motor.
>
>The reason I ask is that when I told Chris Witt about the 1/8" pinstripes
>along the bottom of my dash, he said his W30 had those. Maybe my '68
>is a W30 car, he suggested.
>
>So I ran outside and checked for evidence of OAI scoop mounting. Hmmm...
>No holes in the bumper, but some suspiscious-looking holes in the
>radiator support.
>
>Chris also told me to check the radiator keeper for 2 curves vs. 1 curve.
>Mine is the 2 curve version, which indicates either AC (which the car
>doesn't have) or heavy-duty cooling (ie: W30).
>
>Any other things to check?
>


  The one big thing you need to have on this car is a set of "D"
cylinder heads. A W-30 must have these or it's not real. The other item that
this car must have is a Muncie manual trans, or a "OW" code TH-400 automatic.


     Jim Chermack 
     Virginia Beach, Va. (804)474-0869
>
>
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!

------------------------------

From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 22:41:19 -0300
Subject: '67 Toronado For Sale 

  I have a nice driver of a '67 Toro Deluxe For Sale.

   Orig. Engine (113,000 miles), Maroon, P/S, P/B, A/C, Pwr Windows, Pwr
Antenna, Pwr trunk, Pwr Seat, AM/FM Stereo, Tilt/Tele, Preety clean car.
Loads of new and N.O.S parts. All new rubber seals, tires, brakes, shocks,
entire front end, exhaust, headlight actuators, alt, batt, turn signal
switch, emblems, water pump, etc. $4500.00 OBO
Includes extra parts too!

     Jim Chermack   OCA#24575
     Virginia Beach, VA. (804)474-0869
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!

------------------------------

From: rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 00:11:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Carbs (QJ Parts) 

>I tried to learn the qjet, but every change seemed to require pulling
>the airhorn whose gaskets would tear and you can't buy separate from a
>total rebuild kit.

Actually, now that Edelbrock has a line of remanufactured/tweaked QJs the
airhorn gaskets are available in packs of 5 for $9.99 from Summit.
Edelbrock has also come out with a decent collection of tuning parts such
as primary metering rods, jets, power piston springs, secondary metering
rods and secondary metering rod hangers. This saves the trouble of
scrounging around the salvage yard when your looking for a particular
tuning part.

Personally, I like the QJ. It is a bit more difficult to get dialed in
since there are more variables available to play with than in the Holley
design (I had to whip up a little spreadsheet to help figure what various
changes in rod/jet combinations would have on fuel delivery). However,
these same variables are what allows the QJ to be more versatile. Another
list member recommended Doug Roe's book on these carbs and I wholeheartedly
agree. I wouldn't even open up a Quadrajet without it.

The thing to keep in mind is that the engine doesn't _know_ what type of
carburetor it has on it. All it knows is whether it's getting the proper
air/fuel ratio and sufficient airflow for the current conditions. If it is,
it will run well with just about anything.

Rich

- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 00:20:08 -0300
Subject: eng\trans swap350\350 to 455\400 

71 cutlass with orig 350c.i. and turbo 350==just bought a 455c.i. and
turbo400 out of a 70 delta88 and want to put it in the cutlass==anyone have
any info on motor mounts, trans mount and crossmember, driveshaft etc??

when installing aftermarket cam which is better and/or easier??<<using
adjustable pushrods or special ordering exact length ones??<<in the 455
??where can they be ordered as a good price??

how much of a variable is acceptable in lifter preload??==ie:.020 on one .035
on another

any ideas on a possiable donor car for any needed parts??

throttle kickdown switch??

any good books on general rebuilding or on hot rodding olds motors??

how bout donor car for different ratio rear end "posi?" that would be a
complete bolt on?"ie:same width, spring perches etc

same car has front drum brakes==donor car for disc ??would the delta88 work??

GUTHRIE=OWNER 70 CUTLASS
STEE=MECHANIC/OWNER TOOLS

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 02:41:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Legislation 

>Spud wrote:
>> 
>> Spread some of that goodness out West, Mike.
>
>I'm in Florida.  We DID make income 
>taxes and gill-nets unconstitutional.
>
>I could send you a box of sand...
>-- 
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO

Yeah, but it would probably smell mildewed, like the hotel rooms.
Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 02:50:56 -0300
Subject: Re: M85 and CNG

On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Dave Paulison wrote:

> At 04:59 PM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:
> >If it wasn't for the oil lobby, 
> >mabye we could use efficient fuels such as M85 or CNG.  
> >                     -->   Bob Valentine  <-- 

> What are M85 and CNG?  

   M85 stands for "Methanol 85%" - it's a mixture of 15% gasoline (for 
lubricity which straight alcohol doesn't have) and 85% Methanol.  I've 
run M85 in my '71 with only a slight decrease in performance.  Mainly due 
to the fact that I didn't re-jet the carb for only one tankfull.

   CNG = Compressed Natural Gas

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
     "Clinging Tenaciously to the Trailing Edge of Technology"

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 03:05:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Carbs (QJ Parts)

On Wed, 7 Aug 1996, Rich Inacker wrote:

> Personally, I like the QJ. It is a bit more difficult to get dialed in
> since there are more variables available to play with than in the Holley
> design (I had to whip up a little spreadsheet to help figure what various
> changes in rod/jet combinations would have on fuel delivery). However,

    I'd be interested in seeing a copy of this!  Could you post?  The same
chart included with AFB's is a great tuning aid.

> these same variables are what allows the QJ to be more versatile. Another
> list member recommended Doug Roe's book on these carbs and I wholeheartedly
> agree. I wouldn't even open up a Quadrajet without it.

   Agreed.   That book ended a long time mystery for me - the different 
length of main metering rods.    It amazes me how many parts carbs I 
pick up that have the wrong rods in them...  The chart of secondary rods 
is also a handy item.  I DO wish he'd been a little more lenghty on 
tuning for street/daily driver cars.  

> Rich
> rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 05:28:34 -0300
Subject: Misc stuff on the road to Seoul... 

                    OK, thanks to a medical problem (not mine,
          another passenger), my flight from SFO to So.  Korea has
          been temporarily diverted to Anchorage.  Well, I've never
          been to Alaska, either...

          Misc responses to random postings:

          To Bob Barry on the air valve wrap spring:

          After sending my last post I went out into the garage and
          looked at a Q-Jet.  The spring appears to be easily replaced
          once the lock screw is loosened and the adjusting screw
          (really just a shaft with a screwdriver slot in it) pulled
          out.  As to adjusting to prevent recurrence of the broken
          spring, I usually do this with the carb disassembled so that
          I can see the spring.  Loosen the lock screw and back off on
          the adjusting screw until the wrap spring is not contacting
          the air valve shaft pin.  Carefully tighten the adjusting
          screw until the spring just touches the pin on the air valve
          shaft, then turn an additional 3/4 turn.  Tighten the lock
          screw.  Note that with some practice, you should be able to
          feel this initial contact point without having to see the
          spring. This will allow you to adjust it on the car in the
          future.

          To Fernando on square carb adapter/spacer:

          The "ram" effect of the additional spacer height depends on
          a lot of factors, including the operating RPM, manifold
          runner length, engine mods, etc.  In addition, you will note
          that tunnel ram manifolds incorporate a gentle turning of
          the flow, something you will not get with a simple spacer on
          a stock 4bbl manifold.  Finally, take a good look at the
          spacer and manifold.  Unless there is a careful hand
          blending of all steps, restrictions, etc, the added
          turbulence and restriction will far outweigh any performance
          advantages.

          To those complaining of the difficulty in finding Q-Jet air
          horn gaskets for jet tuning:

          Lubricate the paper air horn gasket with oil (motor oil or
          3-in-1 oil, for example) prior to installing the gasket.
          This will prevent the paper from sticking to the carb
          casting and allow its reuse if the air horn is removed
          carefully.  While this won't work if the carb has been
          together for several years (you _were_ going to rebuild it,
          weren't you?), it _will_ allow reuse over reasonable periods
          of time (ie, months between removals).

          Joe (on the road to Seoul) Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:16:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear Sway Bar & Body Flex?

Greg, boxed control arms will improve the cars ride stability but they will 
not stiffen the body, if 
anything they will enhance any body flex you already have.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 18:38:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc stuff on the road to Seoul...

JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com wrote:

>           To Fernando on square carb adapter/spacer:
> 
>           The "ram" effect of the additional spacer height depends on
>           a lot of factors, including the operating RPM, manifold
>           runner length, engine mods, etc.  In addition, you will note
>           that tunnel ram manifolds incorporate a gentle turning of
>           the flow, something you will not get with a simple spacer on
>           a stock 4bbl manifold.  Finally, take a good look at the
>           spacer and manifold.  Unless there is a careful hand
>           blending of all steps, restrictions, etc, the added
>           turbulence and restriction will far outweigh any performance
>           advantages.
> 

To Joe (on the road to Seoul) Padavano

Good point. Have a good trip.

- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 10:41:16 -0300
Subject: FW: Directions to Atlanta Show

- ----------
From: 	Frank Boerger[COMPUSERVE:103454,317]
Sent: 	Tuesday, August 06, 1996 8:43 AM
To: 	'Oldsmobile usenet'
Subject: 	Re-request :Directions to Atlanta Show

Please Respond !:

The following is an encore presentation:

I plan on attending the OCA show in Atlanta...be there Fri/Sat.

After I drive north about 265  miles, where is the show ?  I seem to have
misplaced my directions.

Thanks much !

Frank Boerger
'68 Convertible/68 coupe parts car
"Now covering at least 2 acres east of Tallahassee, FL "

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 10:45:04 -0300
Subject: 69 rear axle codes

Date: Wed, 7 Aug 96 07:47:55 -0500
Message-Id: <X00000000046ec00@MHS>
Subject: Returned mail: Service unavailable
FROM: MAILER-DAEMON/mime////////RFC-822/MAILER-DAEMON@sylveste
TO: jharris
Encoding: 6 text, 28 message


While connected to mailserver.rttc.redstone.army.mil. [136.205.74.251] (tcp):
>>> HELO sylvester.rttc.redstone.army.mil
<<< 553 Local configuration error, hostname not recognized as local

554 oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca... Service unavailable

Date: Wed, 7 Aug 96 07:47:55 -0500
Subject: 69 A-body rear end codes (ATTN: Dave Pa
FROM: 
John#f#Harris/mime////////RFC-822/John#f#Harris#a#sylvester#f#rttc#f#redstone#f#army#f#mil@sylveste
TO: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Encoding: 22 text

Folks

There are a whole lot of axle codes.  I am just going to list the
anti-spin codes for the type "O" axles on A body cars.
There are two catagories.  The first is for standard equipment cars:
R3 = 2:56
SB = 2:78
SD = 3:08
SF = 3:23
TM = 3:42
TO = 3:91
TY = 4:33

The other column is for cars equipped with JL2.  In my book option JL2
was power front disk brakes.  I don't know what his has to do with the
rear end but here are the codes for A bodies with JL2
R7 = 2:56
S3 = 2:78
S5 = 3:08
S7 = 3:23
S9 = 3:42
T3 = 3:91

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 13:46:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Legislation

Spud wrote:
> 
> Yeah, but it would probably smell mildewed, like the hotel rooms.

OK, how 'bout a Palmetto bug?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 11:06:32 -0300
Subject: RE: Legislation

Actually, wouldn't it probably be full of cat shit?


- ----------
From: 	Mike Frederick[SMTP:edison3@cpeq.com]
Sent: 	Wednesday, August 07, 1996 12:46 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Legislation

Spud wrote:
> 
> Yeah, but it would probably smell mildewed, like the hotel rooms.

OK, how 'bout a Palmetto bug?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 13:20:23 -0300
Subject: Qjet Tuning 

Rich,
Thanks for your tuning tips. Agree with you on the engine not knowing
what carb is up there, just if it's being well fed (or over- or under-
fed). Great, great tips on tweaking qjets, guess I have to call
summit! Is there any chance you could email your spreadsheet or its
design features to the group? This is excactly the kind of information
we novices need. 
chris fair

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From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 13:24:17 -0300
Subject: Kickdown Switch 

You can find throttle kickdown switches on Big old's (88's and 98's from
65-70 or so mounted just in front of the firewall. They have an integrated
switch pitch converter switch on the kickdown too, if you need it. You
can id them by the two wires running south to the tranny and one wire
coming in from the harness on the fire wall. Mid 60's Caddies had kickdowns
mounted on teh intake manifold which might work with some modification.
Upside is they were intended to work with a qjet, dowside is the manifold
is probably differently shaped.

Happy boneyard hunting!
chris fair

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From: "Catalano's" <info@catalano.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 17:27:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Suspension questions 

At 06:20 PM 8/6/96 -0300, you wrote:
>I need to redo my whole front end suspension.  Who makes an excellent
>quality poly-graphite bushing kit for a decent price? 

Try: PST Suspension
     P.O. Box 396
     Montville, NJ 07045
     (800) 247-2288

                        
>Is bushing replacement a difficult proceedure?  Can it be done by one
person >that has never done it before?  Thanks.

I've never done this myself, but am planning on doing this in the next year
or so and PST seemed to have decent prices and a variety of suspension kits. 

They also have a how-to video you can order for $20. Has anyone seen this
video? Is it worth the money? 

Todd
thall@en.com
'72 4-4-2

>-Blaine S.
>'72 Cutlass Supreme
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #259
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