
oldsmobile-digest          Thursday, 13 June 1996       Volume 01 : Number 202


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 05:13:03 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Upper Control Arm Bushings 

     I saw in a car magazine (Hot Rod, Camaro Craft, something like that) a 
     few months ago that a company is now making polyurethane bushings with 
     a grease zerk built in.  Anybody have any experience with those?
     
     How about those polygraphite "graphite impregnated" bushings (by 
     PST?).  That sounds kinda gimmicky to me.
     
     On another note, I was going to replace my power antenna ('84 H/O) 
     last night but after a good look I decided that I can do without it 
     for a while (antenna is in good physical shape and still works as an 
     antenna, just no power).  Getting that dang thing out either involved 
     removing the fender (gotta remove the hood too to do that) or removing 
     the fenderwell (which involves removing lots of misc. parts and 
     systems attached to it on the inside).  Ugh.  Maybe some punk will 
     come along and snap it off some day so I can have the dealer replace 
     it on the Insurance Co.'s dime.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    6/11/96 8:13 PM


At 17.16 06,11,96 -0300, you wrote:
     
>>replace them with Polyurethane units...it will be alot more solid in the 
>>turns...
>>                         zack
>
>But it will still squeek!
>
     
i know...but you can cut down on squeaking ALOT by using the right 
lube...but the best bet is...they wil last almost FOREVER
                         zack
     

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:45:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Upper Control Arm Bushings 

>     On another note, I was going to replace my power antenna ('84 H/O) 
>     last night but after a good look I decided that I can do without it 
>     for a while (antenna is in good physical shape and still works as an 
>     antenna, just no power).  Getting that dang thing out either involved 
>     removing the fender (gotta remove the hood too to do that) or removing 
>     the fenderwell (which involves removing lots of misc. parts and 
>     systems attached to it on the inside).  Ugh.

Didn't somebody here say that all you really need to do to get access
is to unbolt the lower edges of the fender and around the perimeter of
the wheel well, then pull the fender outwards? This was the method I
used to get the blower out of our '72 LeMans, from the same area behind
the fender. Worth a try?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 05:43:03 -0300
Subject: A-body tips 

     I just thought you all might want to know, the latest Car Craft has a 
     "101 Tips and Tricks" in the current issue that contains a lot of 
     stuff relevant to A-bodys.  Like retrofitting F-body disc brakes, 
     G-body power brake boosters, B-body master cylinders, electric vacuum 
     pumps, and adapting G-body close-ratio steering boxes (found on H/O's, 
     Monte SS's, Grand Nationals, etc).
     
     Tom L.

------------------------------

From: Paul Bartlett <bartletp@osshe.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:14:34 -0300
Subject: Toronado Electric Window Mystery

I'm not sure if anyone can help me on this...

I recently bought a 1966 Toronado.  Neither the electric windows nor
electric seat work.  The previous owner had disconnected the wire from the
circuit breaker that provides the current to electric windows and seat. 
When I tried to reconnect the wire, I got a lot of SPARKS which indicates
that somewhere the current in the wire was shorting to the body of the
car. 

I found a relay behind the left kick panel under the dash.  When I
unbolted the relay from the body of the car, I could reconnect the wire to
the circuit breaker and not get sparks.  I took the relay apart and found
that the components in the relay had been touching the relay cover.  I
believe this was causing the short. 

I haven't found a new relay, so I thought to repair the old one.  The
relay works when testing it on the car's battery.  I reconnected the relay
and now have the following difficulties: 

1:  With ignition off, the relay is activated (points in relay are closed). 
The power windows work, but the power seat does not.  

2:  With ignition on, the relay is not activated (points in relay are
open).  Neither power windows nor power seat work.

3:  With ignition on and with me using my fingers to push the points in
the relay together, power windows and power seat both work.

All of this seems odd to me.  I would have thought that everything would
work the opposite of the way it is currently working.  I thought that
the power seat would work with ignition off and that the power windows
would only work with ignition on.  It seems to be the other way around.  

It also seems odd that the relay is activated with ignition off and then
deactivated with ignition on.

Would anyone by chance know how all of this is supposed to work?  Thanks
for your help. 

Paul Bartlett
E-mail bartletp@osshe.edu

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:25:19 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

In a message dated 96-06-12 00:02:58 EDT, you write:

>There is a reason why they don't start good. Besides being junk to begin
>with, the plugs invariably always leak. Just a bad design........ period!

Sparky:

Can't agree with that - at all.  Q-jets are different beasts than other
types.  I've been using them for 30 years.  There are fixes for the bowl
leakage.  The '66 models had the most problems. They were corrected pretty
soon.  When my '67 was new I knew I was getting somewhere when I sucked the
Q-jet dry in first gear!  Installed a slightly Buick needle and seat and an
cheapo AC electric fuel pump and car ran mid 12's routinely. With a 3.08 gear
it also got very, very close to 20mpg.

I've tried most all of the other carbs including various Holleys including
everything from a spreadbore to a 3-barrell (anyone remember them?),
Thermoquads, AFB's Rochester 4GC, 2GC and more.

Holleys are great drag carburators, lots of experience, parts, book, etc.
 For a car that is driven much at all, they suck.  Flat spot of idle, lousy
fuel economy, power valve that blow from any backfire, etc, etc.

Of them all, the Q-Jet is still my favorite.  Warts and all.  Set up properly
they can match any of them for performance, durability and economy.  IMHO :-)


Bob Handren  OCA# 7728



The Holley is best for

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:25:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings 

In a message dated 96-06-12 07:43:12 EDT, you write:

>
>Why will it still squeak? Because of the urethane? The originals didn't
>squeak till now (10 years), shouldn't replacements not squeak? If I don't
>want the squeak use rubber, otherwise use urethane?

I have no idea why they squeak, probably because the polyurethane is much
harder than the rubber and will move as opposed to flexing for the rubber.
  When I installed poly in the rear suspension of my car it did not squeak at
first.  After a few days it started.

Polyurethane is a great _performance_ material.  Putting poly-u bushings in
your 1969 Luxury Edtion 98 would not be wise if you want to keep the
luxo-barge quality of quiet and soft ride.  If you want more control,
durability and performance, use 'em and either accept the noise or keep
lubricating them.  They way grease and oil attract dirt, I'll gladly accept
the noise.  

With my 3" inch exhaust, headers, etc. I don't hear it very often anyway!

Bob Handren OCA# 7728

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:47:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

>I found a relay behind the left kick panel under the dash.  When I
>unbolted the relay from the body of the car, I could reconnect the wire to
>the circuit breaker and not get sparks.  I took the relay apart and found
>that the components in the relay had been touching the relay cover.  I
>believe this was causing the short. 

Certainly sounds like it. What exactly was touching the cover? IOW, sounds
like something must have been seriously out of position, or the cover was
dented in, or...? Also, in some relay designs the pilot circuit (the one
that turns on the main circuit) _is_ grounded through the cover, although
that isn't necessarily supposed to be true in this case (a Toro owner will
have to tell you that).

>1:  With ignition off, the relay is activated (points in relay are closed). 
>The power windows work, but the power seat does not.

Well, that's definitely backwards... 

>2:  With ignition on, the relay is not activated (points in relay are
>open).  Neither power windows nor power seat work.

Right... A theory is slowing developing in my foggy brain...

>3:  With ignition on and with me using my fingers to push the points in
>the relay together, power windows and power seat both work.

Um, okay...

>It also seems odd that the relay is activated with ignition off and then
>deactivated with ignition on.

Ah-ha. The way this is acting, it sounds as if you have two separate power
feeds (to arm the windows and to arm the seat) and no ground. When the car
is off, the live circuit (for the windows) is apparently using the dead
circuit (for the seat) as a ground; ergo you have one working circuit.
When the car is on, the dead circuit goes live, both wires are at +12V, 
no current flow occurs between them and neither feed to windows nor seat
is armed.

>Would anyone by chance know how all of this is supposed to work?  Thanks
>for your help. 

I'm going by symptom description here, not a wiring diagram, so I can only
make suggestions, but here's what I'd do:

1) Figure out which wires go into the relay to turn on the main power to
the accessories. Apparently there are two circuits being controlled here:
seats and windows. Since each can be turned on separately, there presumably
are going to be two input (pilot) wires. Ignore the fat wires at the relay;
those would be the main power to seats and windows, with either one or two
equivalently fat supply wires. Focus on the small-gauge wires.

2) Map out which small-gauge wires are hot, and which are grounds. Follow
the hot wires if possible to see where they get their power from. Their
color may be a clue; e.g. pink=ignition-hot, red=acc-hot, orange=always-hot.
Someone may have reversed the leads somewhere so that windows are now on
the orange circuit and seats are on the pink, and not vice-versa.

3) If any wires are black (uh, colored, not burnt :-), they are almost 
certainly intended to be grounds. Test to see if they really are.

4) If you have color-coded wires going in and no black ones coming out,
the relay may be intended to ground through its case in order to close the
contacts. (Certainly the big fat wires should not ground here at all.) See
which terminals ground to the case, and see if the wire attached to those
terminals should logically be doing that.

There! A nice long essay with no conclusion at the end. Hopefully this
will give you something to experiment with, though; if you find out 
anything interesting, get back to us...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:15:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery

Paul,

Boy, this is a screwy one.  Don't have one of those relays handy, maybe 
Greg K has one lying around.

> 1:  With ignition off, the relay is activated (points in relay are 
> closed).

This SEEMS wrong right here.  Why would the relay be energized with the 
car off?  Seems like a great way to drain a battery.  Ignoring the 
contacts, are you certain the relay is energizing?  Have you measured it 
with a voltmeter to be sure it has 12 volts?

> The power windows work, but the power seat does not.

Definitely wrong.
 
> 2:  With ignition on, the relay is not activated (points in relay are
> open).  Neither power windows nor power seat work.

Hmmm.  BTW, don't be misled by the position of the contacts.  Relay 
contacts are either "normally open" or "normally closed", there state 
WITHOUT the application of power.  Opened or closed does not, of itself, 
indicate if the relay is energized.
 
> 3:  With ignition on and with me using my fingers to push the points in
> the relay together, power windows and power seat both work.

This would seem to indicate that the wiring is correct.  But it would 
also indicate that the relay is not OK.  If you can push it with your 
finger and everything works, it sounds like the relay contacts are toast.
 
> All of this seems odd to me.  I would have thought that everything 
> would work the opposite of the way it is currently working.  

Agreed.

> It also seems odd that the relay is activated with ignition off and 
> then deactivated with ignition on.

More than odd.  If the juice is off, where is the power coming from to 
energize the relay?

Also, does the relay have multiple contacts or only a single set of 
contacts.  Does each set of contacts have only two points or do they have 
three.

Anybody else?


The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:10:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

>Right... A theory is slowing developing in my foggy brain...

Whoops, that should have read either "slowly developing in my foggy brain"
or "slowing development in my foggy brain"...  :-)

I forgot to mention one other thing to look for: assuming you can find 
two small-gauge feed wires plugged into this relay, one hot, one not, 
and their terminals are interchangeable, then swapping them over should 
net you a power seat that works with the ignition off and power windows 
that don't, instead of the other way around.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 14:16:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushings

> I have no idea why they squeak, probably because the polyurethane is much
> harder than the rubber and will move as opposed to flexing for the rubber.
>   When I installed poly in the rear suspension of my car it did not squeak at
> first.  After a few days it started.
> 
> Polyurethane is a great _performance_ material.  Putting poly-u bushings in
> your 1969 Luxury Edtion 98 would not be wise if you want to keep the
> luxo-barge quality of quiet and soft ride.  If you want more control,
> durability and performance, use 'em and either accept the noise or keep
> lubricating them.  They way grease and oil attract dirt, I'll gladly accept
> the noise.  

I understand that after some use, non-lubricated polyurethane bushings
tend to wear down, eventually producing some slop in the suspension.  
Polyurethane bushings with grease fittings will provide better durability.
It may be possible to get urethane bushings with different (lower) durometer 
characteristics, which would be more suited for an Olds 98 type vehicle.
 
Kevin

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 14:36:27 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

At 01.00 06,12,96 -0300, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-06-11 23:23:01 EDT, you write:
>
>>Damn this quadrajets are hard to start.
>
>Dan,
>
>There is a reason why they don't start good. Besides being junk to begin
>with, the plugs invariably always leak. Just a bad design........ period! I'm
>working on a fix (as suggested by Mike Frederick). I will be bench testing
>soon.
>

an excellent replacement that works extremely well...the Carter AFB...one of
the best damn carbs i ever had to install on an olds
                    zack

      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 14:42:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Upper Control Arm Bushings 

At 05.13 06,12,96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>     I saw in a car magazine (Hot Rod, Camaro Craft, something like that) a 
>     few months ago that a company is now making polyurethane bushings with 
>     a grease zerk built in.  Anybody have any experience with those?
>     
these are the ones that went on the 67 PU...they stopped ALOT of the
suspension slop that is in those trucks...allows use of more lube which gets
rid of 
>     How about those polygraphite "graphite impregnated" bushings (by 
>     PST?).  That sounds kinda gimmicky to me.
those are impregnated to help reduce the squeaking...havent used them but
its supposed to help alot
     
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:33:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

>This SEEMS wrong right here.  Why would the relay be energized with the 
>car off?  Seems like a great way to drain a battery.

Power seats are majorly weird, to use the technical term. I was doing
battle with one in a 1980 Bonneville once, trying to figure out why it
was making all the right relay-clicking noises but not moving. From what
I remember, I learned that the little joystick control does some goofy
double-duty switching: it closes some contacts to route power that it
hasn't actually switched on yet, then, as you press further, it turns on
the main power relay, and the juice goes through it (the switch) to
activate whichever motor is being "pointed" to.

So at the relay you should normally (i.e. with car off) find:

1) Pilot (small-gauge) wires that are normally dead until something (such
as the joystick switch) activates them. When they go hot, the relay
activates.

2) One fat power wire leading _from_ the relay _to_ the power accessory,
also dead. When the relay activates, this wire goes hot.

3) One fat supply wire, hot at all times. Nothing is actually closing the
relay contacts with the car sitting unused, so the supply power has nowhere
to go. 

Complicating this is the fact that this design of relay apparently controls
two separate accessory circuits with two separate pilot inputs. No wonder
Paul's head is spinning.

>Ignoring the 
>contacts, are you certain the relay is energizing?  Have you measured it 
>with a voltmeter to be sure it has 12 volts?

Yes, what do you find? Probably at least one _will_ be hot, but we're
interested in finding out which one(s).

>> The power windows work, but the power seat does not.
>
>Definitely wrong.

Bass-ackwards, IMHO.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:30:57 -0300
Subject: Olds Homecoming 

I'm sorry to say this, but I won't be able to attend the Homecoming this 
Saturday.  Some other personal business came up at the last minute.  Dang.

Everyone have a good time!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 16:35:03 -0300
Subject: FS: 1966 Olds F85 

***************FOR SALE***************
1966 Olds F-85 Deluxe 2-door hardtop.
Rebuilt 330 c.i. V-8, 3-spd. man. trans.
Less than 10,000 miles on rebuild
Recent shocks, brakes (Lifetime warranty
shoes) and paint.

Wrecked on passenger's side.  Rebuildabe,
or use mechanical parts in your undamaged body.
Interior has been exposed to the elements
due to broken right rear window.
Good Driver's side sheet metal.
Car would be driveable with tires/wheels
and a battery.

Spent over $2000 on engine and transmission
rebuilds alone.

Asking $2000 or best offer.

Reply by e-mail or call Jeff Lanthripp at
(423) 825-1457.

- --
Jeff Lanthripp                          redbeard@cdc.net

     ------------------------------------------------------------------
     1965 Oldsmobile 98 Town Sedan   TIP # 1048   I Trade Live Concerts
     Always Buying Nirvana Items   MiSTie # 53344       Keep On Skankin
     ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:48:38 -0300
Subject: Who's in Boise?

Is anyone on the list in the Boise, Idaho area? Wes Fujii maybe? I'll be 
there all next week, staying at the Red Lion Riverside hotel. Would like 
to meet up with folks if anyone's interested.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:47:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming

Well, I'm still going to be there if everything works out OK. Can anyone 
give me basic directions for:

(a) Metro Airport in Detroit to Lansing (what Interstate?)
and
(b) Once I hit Lansing, what exit to take to get to Townsend and general 
directions to the show?

Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:56:37 -0300
Subject: Social Notes

Jim Chermack of the list (accesses by his neighbor John Blair's account. 
Blair is restoring a Bricklin which explains a lot re. why he lets his
buddy use his computer to subscribe to a mail list... :-) ) is visiting
Halifax right now on the USS Arleigh Burke, a navy sub-chaser. We got
together last night and had a great time... he enjoyed seeing my '68 and
my friends' '70 and '71 SXs, and we all had a great time talking Olds,
grilling burgers and sampling some of our great Canadian beer... think we
converted his shipmate Rick from a Ford to an Olds guy too! Jim showed us
pics of his rather impressive Olds collection (the Toro virus has struck
him too - uses a '67 as a daily driver) and we all made plans to see each
other at the '97 meet. A fun time had by all. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 18:00:07 -0300
Subject: RE: Looking for Parts

On Wed, 12 Jun 1996, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> In JC Whitney/Warshawsky Metro Catalog No. 125B, the bumpers are on
> page 83. I've found _rear_ bumper listings for '70 Cutlass, '70 442,
> '71-'72 Cutlass and '71-'72 442. In a different box on the same page
> are listings for urethane bumper/fascias, both front and rear, for
> '81-'86 RWD Cutlasses.

Pretty sure at least some of these are the dreaded Taiwanese bumpers. 
I've heard mixed reviews as to their quality... approach with caution.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: ndg@traverse.com (Nielsen Design Group)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:02:32 -0300
Subject: '68 442 rear end caper 

Hello all,
Turns out my '68 442 restoproject came with no rear gears in place;
just an empty differential housing with the axleshafts peeking out.
Along with the car came a complete twelve-bolt rear end from
an Olds bigcar. Knowing NOTHING about rear ends, I figured I'd try to
tackle putting all the pieces together, betting on youthful enthusiasm
to pull it off instead of know-how.

Much to my dismay, it turned out to be a 2.63 posi (42-tooth ring,
16-tooth pinion). Really hadn't planned on creating a Turnpike Cruiser.
And to my further dismay, I have been told that this rear end won't
even work in the 442. Seems the 442s and Cutlasses from '68 - '70
used an exclusive 12 bolt cover/10 bolt gear "O axle" rear end.

After speaking with a helpful fellow at Richmond Gear, I learned that
the 2.63 carrier can be made to work with lower gears (say 3.42)
by using a Mr. Gasket adaptor with a little machining. Comments?
What does everyone think of such a practice?

Also, does anyone know what the stock gears were in '68 for the 442?
How about the Hurst/Olds? The H/O gears may be a better bet as I
plan to go with a freshened-up 455 for motor. Any "ultimate" 455 gearing
opinions out there? This is a factory 4 speed Muncie car.

In worst case, I may need to seek out the correct carrier/gears. Perhaps
this is the most feasible thing to do instead of getting into big labor
and machinework $.

Any feedback at all would help me out of the fog!

- -Darren Shroeger
 '68 442

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 18:43:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming

> From oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca Wed Jun 12 16:56 EDT 1996
> Date: 	Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:47:01 -0300
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
> Well, I'm still going to be there if everything works out OK. Can anyone 
> give me basic directions for:
> 
> (a) Metro Airport in Detroit to Lansing (what Interstate?)

94 West (toward Chicago), to 275 North, to 96 West (to Lansing), to 496
(North) West (to downtown Lansing).

> (b) Once I hit Lansing, what exit to take to get to Townsend and general 
> directions to the show?

The Olds' building is a great big building, with a great big Oldsmobile
sign on the roof, and a bunch of smokestacks.  You can see it from 496.
When it's close, get off at that exit.  It's on the south side of 496.
Just exit, and drive toward the Olds' building.  It's a block from the 
freeway.  The show is in the parking lot of the Olds' building.

I hope those directions are correct.  That's what I remember from going
there, last year, and I'm going to use them.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:13:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming 

>From Metro Airport take I-94 west to I-275 north to I-96 west.  Once on I-96
west, it goes 
all the way to Lansing. once you get to Lansing you want to get on I-496
west.  Look for a big sign that says OLDSMOBILE headquarters, get off that
exit and turn left.  Olds HQ.
will stare you in the face.   The distance from 94 to 275 is about 3 to 5
miles.  From 275
to 96 is about 12 miles. So have fun and hope to see you.  From W
Machines(mark)

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:27:20 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

In a message dated 96-06-12 12:29:50 EDT, you write:

>Can't agree with that - at all.  Q-jets are different beasts than other
>types.  I've been using them for 30 years.  There are fixes for the bowl
>leakage.  The '66 models had the most problems.

Bob,

Ok, I will temper my response a bit here. Your are right in one thing, when
they are working right, they are wonderful. I have had a few that were
outstanding. Again you are correct with the 66 model carb. I try and put 67
carbs on my 66's whenever possible.

I'm still not convinced of the infamous "epoxy" fix yet. I hear some are
having some success with tapping and inserting a threaded allen screw with a
rubber washer. However, the casting there is quite thin and usually crappy
(as pot metal usually is at birth).

Years ago when these carbs were still in production, it was no big deal as
you could buy the middle part of the carb for 20 bucks and replace (when they
started to leak).

I ran a 66 Toro with a 67 carb to Indy a few years ago and got 23 mpg. And it
also performed too! I wish I wouldn't have sold that car!  It had the best
carb on it Iever had!

We are currently testing silver solder, mercury amalgums, and a Marine
product as suggessted by Mike F. I will keep everyone apprised of the
results.

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:27:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

In a message dated 96-06-12 13:34:45 EDT, Mike F writes:

>Boy, this is a screwy one.  Don't have one of those relays handy, maybe 
>Greg K has one lying around.
>
>
Sorry, Only one I have is in the show car. All other cars are manual and I
never thought to scavenge them when I used to cruise the bonyards.

I will keep my eyes open however.

Greg (The Sparkmeister)

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:27:21 -0300
Subject: Re: FWD, RWD, left foot braking (long posting)... 

In a message dated 96-06-12 07:54:15 EDT, you write:

> I always thought that left foot breaking was for people who were so old, 

Joanne,

I know my hair is getting a little grey and a bit thin........but I'm not
THAT old!  (:

Sparky

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:27:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

Paul,

I haven't had the pleasure of lunching one of these units yet. Actually, its
too small of a job for me, I prefer melting entire wireing looms!  (:

But seriously, I have had few Toros with power, the ones I did had electric
seats and windows. The seats worked without the key and the windows didn't.
Why, I don't know. Looks like your getting some good advice from the others
though.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. You still may wanna call Oldsmobile USA
though. Also Mike Fusick may be helpful here. As usual, my shop manual is
where I'm not!  AARRGGHH! I can't win with that thing!

Spark O' Rama 

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:27:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

In a message dated 96-06-12 13:47:02 EDT, Andrew Green writes:

>Bass-ackwards, IMHO.

I agree! I would try and trace the wires back to the repective source (seat
motor, and window buttons). Sounds like somewhere something got out of whack
there! Does it look like someone (with a room temperature IQ) may have
attempted a repair previously?

Greg K.

------------------------------

From: AMSOILL@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 22:08:18 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198 

In a message dated 96-06-08 14:06:41 EDT,
oldsmobile-digest-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca writes:

>  3) Anyone have any experience w/ semi-synthetic oils, specifically
>        Valvoline DuraBlend or Castrol's version?
>     

Hi Brad;
          Semi-synthetic oils, or "blend" oils, by law, can have as little as
- -->--> 1% <--<--
synthetic oil in them and still be legally called a "blend".  If the oil
bottle does not even tell you the percentage of the "blend", then you'd be
basically purchasing something without even knowing what you are getting.
 This is tantamount to purchasing a car sight unseen...no one does that.

  Why use a pretend-it's-a-synthetic oil anyway?  100% synthetic oils offer
so many advantages over other oils, it's not even close.  With the most
experienced manufacturer in the field, AMSOL INC., you will benefit from
reduced engine operating temperatures by typically 20-50 degrees Fahrenheit,
a longer lasting engine by as much as 2-3 times, more power, better fuel
economy, lower emissions,  smoother and quieter engine operation, easier
winter starts, sludge build up will be virtually eliminated, save money,
fewer engine repairs, etc.  The benefits of a high qulaity synthetic oil are
many.  Another good synthetic oil on the market is Mobil 1.  Not as good as
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil, but a very good oil none the less.  In my
opinion, with the test results I have seen over many, many years in this
business, Mobil 1 is the second best synthetic oil available in the world and
I'd use it if I could not get my hands on AMSOIL.  The other oils, in my
opinion, are just "all the others".

    I have to smile when I see these other oil companies *just introducing*
their "New" and "Revolutionary" synthetic oils.  Sure, synthetic oils were
"New" and "Revolutionary" ...*over 20 years ago* when AMSOIL introduced them
to the motoring public! :-)

  So be cautious of products that have not been on the market very long.  In
whatever product you use, it is always better to go with a reputable,
experienced manufacturer, than with a company that is just begining to market
a product.  You can't beat experience. :-)

                  I hope this has been of help.  If anyone would like an
interesting article comparing synthetic oils with petroleum oils, or would
like an AMSOIL catalogue that offers toll free factory direct ordering, just
e-mail me and I'll e-mail you the article and snail mail you the catalogue.

 
                                         Cheers,
                                                   Steve

                     7 year independent AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer
                        10 year B.F.Goodrich T/A Certified Tire Specialist
                                1977 Oldsmobile SKO Cutlass owner

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 22:55:07 -0300
Subject: Fiberglass hoods 

Were the W-30 hoods made of fiberglass? How about the hood on a '69
Hurst/Olds? Does anyone here have a damaged example of either for sale? How
about aftermarket? Do you guys know if an aftermarket replacement hood or
the scoops themselves are available? I remember seeing (in my younger days)
companies advertised in the back of hot rod and the like selling
factory-looking fiberglass repro hood scoops for everything from vettes and
cudas to Oldsmobiles.


 EXCESSIVE IRON rules the road!
'65 442
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
 bryceman@442.com
 www.442.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:40:36 -0300
Subject: Re: FWD, RWD, left foot braking (long posting)...

Joanne Beausoleil wrote:
> 
> I am learning a lot from this thread... for instance, I always thought that left foot breaking was for people who were so old, that their 
reflexes weren't fast
> 
> Yah.  Everything's down hill after 16 or so.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 22:57:17 -0300
Subject: Hood scoops again 

Oh yeah, doesnt that Lauren Eng. place sell a W-30 looking hood that will
fit the mid-eighties Cutlasses? I have seen one driving around Topeka with
a hood like that.


 EXCESSIVE IRON rules the road!
'65 442
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
 bryceman@442.com
 www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 23:50:17 -0300
Subject: engine

I think I get the 394? engine, if still there...
Um, guy with blown? 371- this 394? has the xst manifolds on it yet!...  Duals?
I dunno.

Please anyone with pre-65 Olds engine expertise, mail me or call me at
517-882-9747 ASAP, collect if you must, from 'info guy'...

I will prolly take the engine to the swap meet... or else the tri-carb engine.

The race car's engine is FINALLY all assembled & ready to go, scheduled to race
this weekend. Wish I could be there. It just has to work this time.
   One problem- the StuporCars Unlt'd. bronze paint that sprays for all of 2 to
4 seconds between nozzle cleansings... ended up in desperation spraying the
engine w/ no nozzle, just pressing down the can's nipple with my fingernails...
That sucked. But it got some paint on the engine.
  Interesting side note- the block was power-washed at the shop after the line
hone... and it changed the paint from Bronze to almost a perfect match for the
std. old sb Gold color... go figure.

The 403 is ready to install, also. Ahhh. 0.440 lift cam... Should be quite a
step up from the tuckered out 350 smogger it's replacing. Tork City! for a
smogger that is...
  The "good running" 403 turned out to have coolant in the oil, cracked head.
Another $200 or so in mitaswells after the heads came off... and tons of labor
cleaning parts, etc. Dern.
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 23:41:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Window Mystery 

In a message dated 96-06-12 12:25:51 EDT, you write:

> I thought that
>the power seat would work with ignition off and that the power windows
>would only work with ignition on.

As per my current '67 98 and former '66 & '67 Toros: Electric windows AND
seat DO NOT operate unless the ignition is in run.  Current models allow the
seat to work all the time, but older models don't.

Paul

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez) 
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:22:09 -0300
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile ngomez@iadfw.net

     ------------------------------------------------------------------
     1965 Oldsmobile 98 Town Sedan   TIP # 1048   I Trade Live Concerts
     Always Buying Nirvana Items   MiSTie # 53344       Keep On Skankin
     ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 01:41:42 -0300
Subject: 1965 Olds F85 $1500

>Path:
news.iadfw.net!newshost.cyberramp.net!BellSouth!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip74
>From: jerosa@primenet.com (Harder Family)
>Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
>Subject: 1965 Olds F85 $1500
>Date: 10 Jun 1996 20:41:01 -0700
>Organization: Primenet
>Lines: 36
>Message-ID: <4pipsd$aa5@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
>X-Posted-By: ip74.fhu.primenet.com
>X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4
>Xref: news.iadfw.net alt.autos.antique:25301
>
>I have the following Oldsmobile that I would like to sell:
>
>1965 Olds F-85 Deluxe Model Sedan, 4-door
>Air conditioning, power steering, power brakes
>330 V-8 2bbl
>204,000 miles, original engine
>Current paint - Baby Blue, Original Paint - Metallic Blue
>
>Plate information is
>        086C
>ST      65-33669        LAN 45138
>TR      923             D-D
>        EZAK
>        4R
>
>The car has been used exclusively in Florida from 1970 to 1981 and in Arizona 
>since then.  It is in running order with nearly no rust.  The engine is the 
>original, and runs well now, but my mechanic says it will need some work in 
>the future.  I have owned the car since 1970, but due to many factors, I am 
>unable to continue to keep it.  The car was cleaned/prettied up for a high 
>school car show a few years ago by my son, but the paint job is fading.  We 
>also have the repair manuals for it.
>
>Blue Book is listing the car from about $3200 on down, with about $1500 for 
>good condition.  
>
>I would like help in finding someone who is interested in purchasing the car 
>as a classic to maintain.  I am asking $1500, but will take the best, 
>reasonable offer I get within the next month or so.
>
>Email if you are interested as I don't check the boards very often.
>
>Thanks - 
>
>Robert Harder
>Arizona

------------------------------

From: AMSOILL@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 22:08:18 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #199 

In a message dated 96-06-10 00:41:34 EDT,
oldsmobile-digest-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca writes:

>  This was most likely brought up once before, but just to refresh my
>memory, what is the size of the tach and speedo in the 81-88 guage option.
>I'm planning on changing the tach and speedometer in my car and just need to
>know what size they are before I take it all apart.
>     BTW, just put new tires on my car yesterday.  Considering I have 14x7
>ARE wheels on it, I wanted to get a wider tire and little more low profile
>look.  I put on 215-60-14.  That 60 series tire lowered the car pretty good.
>I'll give you the low-down on how it all works out.
>     Thanks.
>Brodie
>85 Salon

Hi Brodie;
             If you have the rear wheel drive Cutlass Salon, a P215/60R-14 is
an undersized tire.  The correct size options for that car are a P215/70R-14
or a P225/60R-14, with the nod going to the P225/60R-14 size for better
handling.  In fact, P235/60R-14's would fit on your car with no problem and
would give you a very pleasing handling improvement.  The 7" wide wheel is
also ideal for this tire size.  The P215/60R-14 is meant for a smaller,
lighter car, like a Chevy Z-24 Cavalier.  Your Cutlass will not reach its
full handling potential with undersized tires on it.  If you want to lower
the car, the correct method is to use different springs while maintaining the
correct tire size.

          I hope this has been of assistance.  If anyone has questions about
tires, oils, ATF or gear lubes for your Oldsmobile, feel free to give me a
shout and it would be my pleasure to help you out.

                                              Cheers,
                                                      Steve

                          7 year indpendent Synthetic Lubricants Dealer
                        10 year B.F.Goodrich T/A Certified Tire Specialist
                                1977 Oldsmobile SKO Cutlass owner

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 06:06:32 -0300
Subject: T-Top & Engine blews, err blues, 

     Well, still no news on the blown (?) 455 in the Rockit.  Fired it up
the other day and ~drove~ it up on ramps.  (Took a few tries, but it got
there!) Still runs. Actually not too bad, considerring there's 8 or 9 quarts
of oil there!  I'm still under the assumption that the pickup tube fell off,
but I'm starting to believe the damage might not be very severe.  (since it
still runs, and takes a little while to start knocking -- aerated oil,
perhaps?  ...hopefully...)  Haven't done a thing to it since then.  
     
     T-Top question for you all...  My driver's side hatch-latch has taken a
dive.  In the gear setup inside (that actuates the lock "pegs" foreward and
rearward) one of the gears is stripping out.  Obviously a by-product of
having them adjusted too tight to the weatherstripping!  Currently, the
front peg locks in place, and the rear one just kinda hangs out where ever
it feels the most comfortable.  Usually ~not~ where it's supposed to be!  
     Any clues/suggestions?  Does GM carry the gears?  (Sure, for $1500, and
we'll throw in a free glass panel with that, too!!!  -- I'd like to avoid
~that~ option!)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 06:06:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What *is* this thing?? 

I think it's a carbon canister.  I've never seen one on these cars (I've
never looked...) but they used them in Suburbans and full size pickups.
It's a round critter shaped like an air cleaner with a smaller diameter?
You should be able to see or hear the carbon beads on the inside of the wire
mesh.  That would be my guess, anyway.




>     Yup, it's siliconed to the bottom of the air cleaner, around the top 
>     of the carb.  You can see the line of blue silicone around the edges, 
>     a nice perfectly straight and clean line too, like it was factory.  It 
>     can't be there to catch any sucked in oil.  The only place oil could 
>     possibly come from (which it isn't) would be the PCV system, which has 
>     it's own filter on the rocker cover connected by a hose to the side of 
>     the air cleaner, and the air should flow _from_ the air cleaner _to_ 
>     that anyways (and then through the crankcase, then PCV valve, then 
>     straight into the carb).  Besides, if oil somehow came in through 
>     there, it'd hit the air filter first.
>     
>     After I sent that, something popped into my mind; could it be an air 
>     silencer?  If anyone has experience with this, is there a performance 
>     gain to be expected by removing it?  How do I remove it w/o damaging 
>     the air cleaner?
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: What *is* this thing??
>Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
>Date:    6/7/96 11:42 AM
>
>Are you sure its siliconed to your air cleaner, and not clipped on, and hooked 
>up to a hose to your PCV valve?  It sure sounds like the bit o' mesh to catch 
>the oil before it gets sucked into your intake...
>     
>Tim Churchill
>
>
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 16:49:47 -0300
Subject: More on rear ends (no pun intended)

Forgot to mention the rear gears also depends on if you have the close 
ratio or wide ratio transmission.  I assume that you have the wide ratio 
which only came with a max of 3.42.  The Close ratio started at 3.42 and 
went up to the mentioned 4.66.  I looked it up and the 4.66 were dealer 
installed, but I think I still remember something higher than that.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 16:44:26 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear & Carbs

Depends on if you have AC or not and also if it a canadian built or not.  Basically 
anything 3.08, 3.23, 3.42, 3.91, 4.33 and 4.66 for us built.  I think you could get even 
higher from the dealer (up to 5 something).  The highest available in a US AC car is 3.23.  
That is what I currently have in my a/c car and I wish it was a little higher for cruising 
around town.  However, on the highway it is great.  I'd just pick a ratio based on what 
type of driving you are going to do. 
 
> Also, does anyone know what the stock gears were in '68 for the 442?
> How about the Hurst/Olds? 

As for the quadrajet, mine has the "epoxy" treatment and was just rebuilt.  The worse 
problem I have is something seems to be wrong with the charging system.  When the car is 
running, you can see the lights pulse.  This pulse can be confirmed with an ammeter.  So, 
when I go to start the car, I only get about 4 tries and then the battery goes dead.  But 
that is another problem.

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (Bill Goodnight)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 22:57:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Who's in Boise? 

At 05:48 PM 6/12/96 -0300, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca wrote:
>
>Is anyone on the list in the Boise, Idaho area? Wes Fujii maybe? I'll be 
>there all next week, staying at the Red Lion Riverside hotel. Would like 
>to meet up with folks if anyone's interested.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>Greg:

I am in Boise.  I am street rodding a 1949 Olds Club Coupe.  I just
purchased a donor car - a 1971 Delta 88 - 455, tilt column, TH400, etc.
Give me a call.  345-0158.
>
>

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 09:11:41 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198

>  Why use a pretend-it's-a-synthetic oil anyway?  100% synthetic oils offer
>so many advantages over other oils, it's not even close.  With the most
>experienced manufacturer in the field, AMSOL INC., you will benefit from
>reduced engine operating temperatures by typically 20-50 degrees Fahrenheit,
>a longer lasting engine by as much as 2-3 times, more power, better fuel
>economy, lower emissions,  smoother and quieter engine operation, easier
>winter starts, sludge build up will be virtually eliminated, save money,
>fewer engine repairs, etc.  The benefits of a high qulaity synthetic oil are
>many.  Another good synthetic oil on the market is Mobil 1.  Not as good as
>AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil, but a very good oil none the less.  In my
>opinion, with the test results I have seen over many, many years in this
>business, Mobil 1 is the second best synthetic oil available in the world and
>I'd use it if I could not get my hands on AMSOIL.  The other oils, in my
>opinion, are just "all the others".


I hope you can back up your claims with proof... Testing reports from 
your lab posted here would be a nice start... Personally, I don't believe 
several of your claims.

Question: How do you know when a salesman is lying?

Answer: His lips are moving...


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: William Walden <WWalden@bdm.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 09:42:01 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198 -Reply 

I have an oil-related question for you.

The owner's manual on my '66 Cutlass w/330 high compression engine
warns not to use "energy saving oil".  What is the reason for this
warning, and is it possible to use synthetic oil without any significant
problems?

Thanks for any light you can shed on this.

Bill Walden
'66 Cutlass 2-door hardtop

------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:10:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods

On Wed, 12 Jun 1996, Bryceman wrote:

> Were the W-30 hoods made of fiberglass?

'70 - '72 hoods were made of Fiberglass.

> How about the hood on a '69 Hurst/Olds? 

A standard steel hood with a hole cut in it, and scoops mounted on top.

> How about aftermarket? 
>Do you guys know if an aftermarket replacement hood or the scoops 
>themselves are available? 

Try VFN or US Body Source.  Both make repros of the Ram Air (W-27) Hood 
('70-'72) I believe.  The '70 hood will fit '69...  They also make a '70 
style ram air hood for the later model Cutlasses ('81-'88).  Year One 
used to sell the '69 H/O scoop. 


- -Rod
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 13:09:31 -0300
Subject: Re: T-Top & Engine blews, err blues,

buehner wrote:
> 
>      Well, still no news on the blown (?) 455 in the Rockit.  Fired it up
> the other day and ~drove~ it up on ramps.  (Took a few tries, but it got
> there!) Still runs. Actually not too bad, considerring there's 8 or 9 quarts
> of oil there!  I'm still under the assumption that the pickup tube fell off,
> but I'm starting to believe the damage might not be very severe.  (since it
> still runs, and takes a little while to start knocking -- aerated oil,
> perhaps?  ...hopefully...)  Haven't done a thing to it since then.
> 
>      T-Top question for you all...  My driver's side hatch-latch has taken a
> dive.  In the gear setup inside (that actuates the lock "pegs" foreward and
> rearward) one of the gears is stripping out.  Obviously a by-product of
> having them adjusted too tight to the weatherstripping!  Currently, the
> front peg locks in place, and the rear one just kinda hangs out where ever
> it feels the most comfortable.  Usually ~not~ where it's supposed to be!
>      Any clues/suggestions?  Does GM carry the gears?  (Sure, for $1500, and
> we'll throw in a free glass panel with that, too!!!  -- I'd like to avoid
> ~that~ option!)
> 
>       Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
>       Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>       Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>       "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
>       "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)Got the same problem on my 83 Hurst/Olds with the passenger side, the 
damm car only has 9000 org. miles on it. The entire internal gear mech is 
 available from the dealer about $50 bucks for mine. The only thing 
stoppping me is the fact that its going to happen again ! If somebody out 
there with machining talent hears this theres would be good money in 
making a dependable replacement part for this problem. Monte's/Grand 
Prix/Regal/Cutlass all use the same mechs.


Keep us posted !
- -- 
Bill!                                      __     __
                                          |  |   |  |              _
83 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition     |  |   |  |            /  /
86 442                                    |  |___|  |          /  /
                                          |   ___   |        /  /
         _           _       ___          |  |   |  |      /  /   ____ 
       /  |        /  |    /  _  \        |  |   |  |    /  /   /  __  \
     /    |      /    |   |_|   | |       |__|   |__|  /  /   /  /    \  
\
   /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /                   /  /    |  |      | 
 |
  |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__                 /  /      |  |      | 
 |
        |_|         |_|   |_______|              /  /         \  \ __ /  
/
                                               /_ /             \ ____ /
            The Perfect "10"
                                               15th Aniversary Edition

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:44:14 -0300
Subject: tires 

My Bravada pickup is going to get 15x7 wheels on it...up from the 14x6...i
was thinking about 245/60's...is this ok, or should i go with a different size
                         zack
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:26:06 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198 

A>>  3) Anyone have any experience w/ semi-synthetic oils, specifically
>>        Valvoline DuraBlend or Castrol's version?
>
> Semi-synthetic oils, or "blend" oils, by law, can have as little as
> -->--> 1% <--<--
> synthetic oil in them and still be legally called a "blend".

1) Could you tell us, if known, what the blend percentages are for the
two brands he is asking about?
2) Are there in fact brands of semi-synthetic oil out there which are only
1% synthetic, and which ones are they?

[...]
> The benefits of a high quality synthetic oil are
> many.  Another good synthetic oil on the market is Mobil 1.  Not as good as
> AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil, but a very good oil none the less.

3) How is Mobil 1 inferior to AMSOIL?

> I have to smile when I see these other oil companies *just introducing*
> their "New" and "Revolutionary" synthetic oils.  Sure, synthetic oils were
> "New" and "Revolutionary" ...*over 20 years ago* when AMSOIL introduced
> them to the motoring public! :-)

4) Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a 20-year head start, AMSOIL is still
only selling via multi-level marketing programs similar to Amway (which, if
I recall correctly, has its own line of engine additives). Shouldn't such
a new and revolutionary product have broken into common use long before the
major oil companies took an interest in developing their own lines? I know
you're selling it, not writing their business plan :-) but forgive us all
a little skepticism here...

> I hope this has been of help.  If anyone would like an
> interesting article comparing synthetic oils with petroleum oils, or would
> like an AMSOIL catalogue that offers toll free factory direct ordering, just
> e-mail me and I'll e-mail you the article and snail mail you the catalogue.

For Olds list members with web access, you can also check an Amsoil web page
run by another independent dealer at http://www.amsoil.com which has more
writeups on the product line.

Andrew C. Green
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498

------------------------------

From: Bneuw30@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:55:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods 

The whole hood was fiberglass.  I have one from my original 1970 W-30 which
was wrecked.  They are available on the aftermarket, but they don't have the
metal screening built into the bottom of the hood scoops.   Several of the
Olds-only companies sell the reproductions.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #202
********************************

