
oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 9 July 1996        Volume 01 : Number 226


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:37:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA) 

          
          
          
 The gas pedal on 89, Cutlass Ciera feels heavy any suggestion ?
Was used to driving 93 Corolla. Specially in city driving with speed 
range of 40 - 60 pedal doesn't work smooth. Needs extra force to push 
the padel( ther is resistence).

          Two things.  First, I suspect there is just a different feel 
          in the olds than there was in the Corolla.  This could be 
          due to different throttle springs, different linkage ratios, 
          etc.  Second, there is a good possibility that the throttle 
          cable on the Ciera is worn, especially with your note that 
          the excessive friction appears primarily in a certain 
          throttle position.  An easy way to check for this is to 
          disconnect the throttle cable from the carb/throttle body 
          under the hood.  Attempt to move the cable manually; any 
          excessive force or binding in this action is cause to 
          replace the cable.  The throttle cable is a multi-strand 
          stainless steel cable inside a plastic sheath.  Some of the 
          strands of the cable will often fray and break inside the 
          sheath, causing them to dig into the plastic and increase 
          the friction and required operating force.  Note that this 
          condition can lead to a stuck throttle (yes, I speak from 
          experience), so I would check here first.
          
          Also, do not ever lubricate the throttle linkage, at least 
          not under the hood, with anything but a dry graphite 
          lubricant.  WD-40 or other liquid lubes or grease may 
          temporarily make the problem go away, however in the long 
          run these lubricants will pick up underhood grit and grime, 
          compounding linkage friction.  Binding or friction in the 
          linkage (at least, cable-style throttle linkages) is an 
          indication of another problem which should be fixed.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 17:53:51 -0300
Subject: Need parts identified...

Hey, anyone out there that can help me?

I have a set of heads and a 4-bbl manifold off an un-known Olds engine. 
The  car was either a '70 or '74 Cutlass 4-door (I think).  I don't know the
engine size, but I'm sure it was the original engine.  After scraping off
some of the grease and grime, I discovered that the original color was a
gold/bronze.  The Intake manifold has OLDSMOBILE cast into it in raised
letters.  The only numbers I could find on the heads looked like: 
CFB 411 828, but the light was dim and they were covered in oil. 
There were no apparent numbers on the intake manifold, except for
the firing order.  The valve covers had Oldsmobile embossed on them,
and were also the same gold/bronze color.

If anyone can tell me what cid engine these came off of, I'd really
appreciate it.  If those numbers are incorrect, tell me where to find the
correct ones.  Thanks!

- -BS

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:09:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Need parts identified... 

Hey, anyone out there that can help me?
          
The valve covers had Oldsmobile embossed on them, and were also the 
same gold/bronze color.


          The gold color is indicative of a 350 cid engine.  The 
          embossed valve covers were used in the mid-1970s, so it is 
          definitely _not_ a 1970 (at least the valve covers aren't 
          from a 70...).  BTW, these embossed valve covers look great 
          when chromed.  I've done this on a nuber of cars, and 
          everyone asks where I got the valve covers.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:12:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Anyone replaced a `72 heater core? 

>At 06:32 PM 4/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>I found a green liquid beginning to rust the front passenger floor pan in my
>>`72 Vista Cruiser     My motor's auto repair manual says that the heater
>>case assembly comes out after the blower motor is removed but that can't be
>>right.  They must mean the blower an shroud along with it.
>>
>>>Greg Pruett
>>
>>Greg:
>
>Unfortunately the manual is right.  Good cars have been sent to heaven over

[SNIP]

Funny you should mention this...
One of my co-workers is putting AC in his Chevelle. For the heat exchanger
he went the disassembly route... BUT, he said it was worth it because you
can practically stand there and work instead of reaching around everything.


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:32:42 -0300
Subject: More FAQ info

Here is some more info (for that missing/overlooked/stuff not there  stuff)

for section B. ENGINES 1949 - 1964
             1.  What CID's 

303:  1949 - 1953  (you had the years xxx'ed out, I assume that means you 
324:  1954 - 1956      didn't have the info...)


for section D. ENGINES 1994 - PRESENT
             1. What CID's

A 4.0 liter engine is actually a 244, not a 200 as you had listed; I don't
know the actual displacement of the Auroro engine, though.

Some more engine info:

Year    Disp.     Comp.    Bore    Stroke     HP        Torque     Induction
49-51   303     7.5 to 1   3.75     3.44   135 @ 3600  253 @ 1800    2 bbl
52      303     7.5 to 1   3.75     3.44   160 @ 3600  265 @ 2000    4 bbl
53      303     8.0 to 1   3.75     3.44   165 @ 3600  275 @ 2200    4 bbl
54      324    8.25 to 1   3.88     3.44   185 @ 4000  300 @ 2000    4 bbl
55      324     8.5 to 1   3.88     3.44   202 @ 4000  332 @ 2400    4 bbl
56      324    9.25 to 1   3.88     3.44   240 @ 4400  350 @ 2800    4 bbl
57      370    9.75 to 1   4.00     3.69   300 @ 4600  410 @ 2800   Tri-Power
58      370    10.0 to 1   4.00     3.69   312 @ 4600  415 @ 2800   Tri-Power
59-60   394    9.75 to 1   4.125    3.69   315 @ 4600  435 @ 2800    4 bbl
61      394    10.0 to 1   4.125    3.69   325 @ 4600  435 @ 2800    4 bbl
62      394   10.25 to 1   4.125    3.69   330 @ 4600  440 @ 2800    4 bbl
63-64   394    10.5 to 1   4.125    3.69   345 @ 4800  440 @ 3200    4 bbl
62-63   215    10.0 to 1   3.50     2.80   215 @ 4600  301 @ 3200    Turbo 
64      330   10.25 to 1   3.94     3.39   310 @ 5200  355 @ 3600    4 bbl
65      400   10.25 to 1   4.00     3.98   345 @ 4800  440 @ 3200    4 bbl
66-69   400    10.5 to 1   4.00     3.98   350 @ 4800  440 @ 3600    4 bbl
66      400    10.5 to 1   4.00     3.98   360 @ 5200  440 @ 3600   Tri-Power
66-67   425    10.5 to 1   4.13     3.97   385 @ 4800  475 @ 3200    4 bbl
68-69   400    10.5 to 1   4.00     3.98   360 @ 5400  440 @ 3600    4 bbl
68-70   455   10.25 to 1   4.13     4.25   400 @ 4800  500 @ 3200    4 bbl
70      455    10.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   365 @ 4600  510 @ 3000    4 bbl
70      455    10.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   370 @ 5400  300 @ 3600    4 bbl
71      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   340 @ 4600  460 @ 3200    4 bbl
71      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   350 @ 4200  460 @ 2800    4 bbl
72      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   300 @ 4200  410 @ 3200    4 bbl
73      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   270 @ 4400  370 @ 3200    4 bbl     


There was also an engine coded W-43 in 1969-1970, though it was never
offered as a production unit.  It was a four valve per cylinder 455 cid
engine.  It was developed in 1969-1970 by John Beltz, Lloyd Gill, Joe Jones,
and Frank Ball.  It was rated at 500 to 550 hp at 6500 rpm with a single
Rochester Quadrajet on an aluminum manifold.  It was constructed with a cast
iron block and heads as well as an aluminum block and heads, which shaved 75
pounds of the 455 cid production engine weight.  The engine had narrow valve
angles for super-efficient combustion chamber design, central spark plugs
(hemi heads!) and could be adapted for chain or gear driven overhead
camshafts.  

The engine had a 4.125 inch bore and 4.250 inch stroke, used 3.00 inch main
bearings and 2.50 inch rod journals, had 10.2 to 1 compression, and a four
bolt main block.  Intake valves measured 1.750 inches and exhaust valves
measured 1.375 inches (four valves per cylinder).

There was an experimental engine based on the W-43, coded OW-43.  It was
designed for road racing applications.  It had the same basic configuration
as the W-43, but the materials were different.  The block was cast from
Reynolds-356 alloy and fitted with pressed in dry steel cylinder liners for
the forged 12.2 to 1 pistons.  It used billet steel connecting rods and a
machined forged steel crank.

The OW-43 was developed at the same time that Chevrolet released it's all
aluminum ZL-1 427 engine, but the Olds engine was far more advanced and
exotic than the Chevrolet engine.  It had a redline just under 8500 rpm, and
put out 300 HP at 3000 rpm, and 600 HP at 6000 rpm.  The top output recorded
for this engine at the Lansing dyno facility was 700 _REAL_ horsepower at
6800 rpm.  Tests were run with both carburetion (four Weber 48-IDA two
barrels) and injection (three-inch ram stacks), with injection showing the
most potential over 6000 rpm.

Here are casting numbers for some engine blocks (1964-72):

Small Block
CID    Year     Casting #     ID code
330   64-67     381917         A
350   68-72     395558         2 (69 is bronze, don't know about other years)
394    64       585786         ?
 

Almost all of this info comes from the book "Oldsmobile, The Performance
Years" by Martyn L. Schorr, published in 1983 by Quiksilver Communications.
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:46:40 -0300
Subject: RE: Hi Torque Starter 

>At 10:48 PM 7/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>Well for one they reduce a bit of weight, but the big thing is they can
>spin a high compression engine over easier, and faster, without breaking
>down as a conventional one tends to do after any time on such an engine.
>>
>>----------
>>
>>What is the advantage of these expensive "high torque" starters if one is
>>having no starter problems?  From what I have seen and read about them, they
>>are actually small electric motors using a reduction gear drive.  I thought
>>they were a "race" item intended to reduce weight a few ounces.
>>
>>Other than that, what do they have to offer?
>>
>>Bob Handren
>>
>>Bob:
>
>I have some high compression cars (1967 Toronado, 1968 442, 1970 Buick GS
>455, 1963 Supercharged Avanti, 1969 390 AMX, 1963 Dodge 383, 1962 Dodge 361)
>& they do fine on their standard starters.  The compression ranges form 9.0
>to 10.75.  Most have AC & other electrical accessories.  Most starters are
>old too.  I think that a good condition starter & electrical system will do
>well on even high compression.
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama
>>

Agreed! The starter for your engine will work! A heat shield will make it
work longer (especially if you modify the exhaust). BIG battery cables WILL
make a difference (Try 0 Gauge instead of 4 Gauge).


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@clic.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:48:14 -0300
Subject: Brakes & Vacumn secondaries:

Salut tout le monde:

FINALLY, today I finally got around to replacing the left front caliper 
on my 82 Delta 88 Royale Brougham.  I've had the part for awhile but 
haven't had the time to do it.  For the last month I've been using my 
second vehicle, 81 Vo*vo, which I've had to use for 2 very long trips.  
I can say that after going for a cruise this afternoon I really miss my 
olds.  The comfort factor alone is enough to want to keep on driving it. 
 I accquired the other (car) due to the cost of gas here (it was free 
and all I had to do was put a motor in it) and tried to convince myself 
that it would be for the best...  I think I might just have to sell it 
and invest the proceeds into the olds, i.e. some neglected body work or 
perhaps start the hunt for the 350 I'd like to put in it.

I do have an olds related question for the gurus out there:

Vacumn secondaries:  having a heavy foot at times I like to tromp on it 
once in awhile and I've noticed that its got a bit of a flat spot before 
picking up RPMs.  With the air cleaner off and blipping the throttle I 
noticed that the secondaries were slow to open.  What should I be 
looking for to fix this?

JK McCall
jkmccall@qbc.clic.net

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:57:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Shift kits 

     Hi guys!  Good to be back, been on vacation the last week. . .
     
     Anyways, everyone I've talked to says that shift kits are good for the 
     tranny.  The theory is that a quicker shift gives the tranny less time 
     to slip.  While it's slipping parts are wearing away.  The problem is 
     that not everyone wants neck-snapping shifts, so they didn't make them 
     that way from the factory.
     
     On another note, I got to go out to the pull-n-save junkyard today.  I 
     didn't find anything I was looking for, but I did see several smogger 
     350's, an older 350 (no egr) with #5 heads and a 4bbl, and a big block 
     (dunno the CID) in an old (also pre-egr) 98 w/ C heads and a 2-bbl.  
     If anyone is interested they're in Spokane, WA.  The place wants about 
     $160 for an entire engine (everything, including accessories, but you 
     pull it), considerably less with a core exchange.  Heads were $24, 
     manifolds $12.  Also less with core exchange.  I know C heads are 
     valuable and I'da grabbed em if I had a use for them.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Fwd: Shift kits
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/2/96 5:26 PM


In a message dated 96-07-01 23:07:23 EDT, chip@in-motion.net (Chip McMann) 
writes:
     
>One more thing.....Are Shift kits bad for a transmission???
     
  I know nothing about
shift kits, except that I've heard guys talk about how they have one and 
except for that I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to put one in the tranny as 
is.

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:06:07 -0300
Subject: Need help...

I have two questions:

Q1:
Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?  A few months ago, I found a
Pontiac 455 with TH400 tranny for $600 (and the *ugly* car even came
with it!).  The engine ran decent, but would need rebuilt.  Even still, I
thought that was an excellent deal... but I passed it up, because I couldn't
find anyone that was smart enough to answer this question.  Two
different mechanics said, "yeah".  Then when I asked, "are you sure?",
one said, "uh well", and the other one said, "sure I'm sure!", but he didn't
look confident in himself.  Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400
was different than the Olds, and wouldn't bolt up anyway.

Q2:
What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the line.

Thanks for the help...

- -BS

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:09:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA) 

At 04:53 PM 8/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>       The gas pedal on 89, Cutlass Ciera feels heavy any suggestion ?
>> Was used to driving 93 Corolla. Specially in city driving with speed
>> range of 40 - 60 pedal doesn't work smooth. Needs extra force to push
>> the padel( ther is resistence).
>> 
>>       Any helpful hints are appriciated.
>
>buy heavier shoes..  most people who switch from imports to GM have
>to do this,,   GM Goodwrench sells a stylish pair in 8-13mens, Thom
>McHann sells the same pair for $30 less. either that or go to a junkyard
>and find a corolla gas pedal and epoxy it to the top of your Oldsmobile
>gas pedal.   
>
>
>Doug Ahern      

>Doug:

He sure is lucky to have you around.  There is no need for further help
after your advice.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
>

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:12:29 -0300
Subject: RE: '69 442 dash

I have a 69 air condition dash I may be persuaded to part with.

- ----------
From: 	JIM DAVIDSON[SMTP:"jdavidsn@ix.netcom.com"@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, July 07, 1996 11:16 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: '69 442 dash

Bryceman wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone know a good source for dashes. It seems most suppliers
> >(Supercars, Year One...) deal with everything but.
> >
> >Also, does any one know of any solutions to fixing a cracked dash.
> 
> I would try Halls Olds salvage. last time I was there, they had three 69
> dashes. Their address and phone is on the Olds page under Olds Parts
> Sources link.
> 
>  EXCESSIVE IRON rules the road!
> '65 442
> '66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
>  bryceman@442.com
>  www.442.com

In case you want to have the equivalent of a brand new dash for your car 
rather than a repaired one, I can recommend Just Dashes in Van Nuys, CA. 
They will completely redo your core and match the grain and color (from 
an unfaded area of the original).  Their work is not exactly cheap but 
it certainly is outstanding--and probably the same cost as a repro would 
be if one were available. Their phone number is (818)780-9005. I've had 
them do four dashes for me including a '59 Cadillac (that's a tough 
one!) and I've never been disappointed.  Jim Davidson, Los Angeles

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:11:19 -0300
Subject: RE: Hi Torque Starter

Bill wrote:

I have some high compression cars (1967 Toronado, 1968 442, 1970 Buick =
GS
455, 1963 Supercharged Avanti, 1969 390 AMX, 1963 Dodge 383, 1962 Dodge =
361)
& they do fine on their standard starters.  The compression ranges form =
9.0
to 10.75.  Most have AC & other electrical accessories.  Most starters =
are
old too.  I think that a good condition starter & electrical system will =
do
well on even high compression. =20

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
While this may be true you have to take into account advertized =
compression ratio's are seldom as high as they say, and also when I say =
high comrpression engines I refer to 10:5 actual  and up. Anything under =
this a standard starter should be able to handle>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:28:36 -0300
Subject: RE: Priming oil pump, windage tray and cup plug Q's

.

1) Should the oil pump be primed in some way before I install it on the
engine? I've heard of people packing it with vaseline or another type of
grease, and know that a VW oil pump won't pump oil unless you fill it =
before
installation (don't ask how long I let the engine run before deciding =
that
oil light just *wasn't* going to go out...). What about on an Olds, =
then?
should I fill the pump with oil before installing it? Or would just
pre-lubing the engine be enough?

What I do is this. Get an old distributor and take the shaft out of it. =
Grind the gear teeth (only)  off the bottom then grind down the other =
end to fit a drill. Once the engine is in place install this tool in =
your drill then insert in the distributor hole. Spin your tool until you =
start to see oil coming out of some of your pushrods. At this point try =
and push down on all the rockers from the pushrod side. You will hear =
and feel a faint squirt as oil totally fills your lifters. Now turn your =
engine over by hand about 1/4 turn and repeat. This is because not all =
lifter oil holes are exposed at one time so you have to do this until =
all rockers are firm to the push. At this point you can acuratley adjust =
your lifter preload.

2) I've installed Mondello's windage tray on the bottom end, and have a =
few
questions about its "fit to application" nature. I dimpled the tray to =
clear
the rod bolts; should the edges be bent inward, however, to a specific
distance from the crank's counterweights in order to scrape off the oil? =
How
exactly should it fit?

This windage tray is a real piece of crap. Mondello should have much =
better quality for the price he charges for a bent bit of steel. At any =
rate this is a windage tray not a crank scraper. It should be a min. =
distance of 0.60 from any moving part. More clearance will not make any =
difference.

In addition, 8 nuts are supplied to attach the tray to the extra-long =
studs;
how are they installed? I have the tray sandwiched between two nuts on =
each
stud; is that what he planned?

Yes

Yes, I have the Mondello tech guide, but all he talks about is dimpling =
the
oil pan to clear the studs (BTW, a note to JM; hire a professional =
editor
for your next edition of that manual. The excellent information you do
provide is muddled by your (dis)organization of material, your sentence
structure (please, at least one noun and one verb in each sentence), and
your grammar.)
I agree completely.

Has anyone here on this list installed on of these pans? Any =
tips/warnings?
When you dimple your pan try and use as little heat as possible as it =
will weaken the pan to the point that a good hit will cut thrrough the =
metal. I usually make a deep sump pan by welding two stock pans =
together, this gives you all the clearance you will ever need, plus it =
holds a lot more oil with a stock height bottom. The one I just made =
holds 8 quarts.
3) Finally, the rebuild kit included a freeze-plug package, but I'm at a
loss as to where some of the plugs they provide go. The cam plug and the
freeze plugs are pretty self evident; it's the specs on the rear left =
oil
galley plug that I need help on (the one that covers up the threaded =
galley
plug). There are three plugs left in the kit: 19/32" (definitely not =
it),
29/32" and 15/16" plugs. It appears as though either of these last two =
plugs
could be used for that hole, but I don't want to use up one meant for
another place where the other plug *wouldn't* work.
Can't help there sorry.

Once that Q is answered, then where do the other two plugs go? Is one of
these (the 19/32" perhaps) the oil pump pressure spring retaining cup? =
The
shop manuals give no indication of possible uses for the two remaining
plugs. Any experience here would be greatly appreciated.
Dr. Robert Barry
Theology Dept.
Providence College
Providence RI 02908

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:38:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Temperature Gauge.... 307/4Bbl 

>Hello, All... I just purchased a cheepie Sun mechanical water 
>temperature gauge, and was wondering where I should install the sending 
>unit. It says I can't use a "T" connector,

Nope; you need to immerse the sending unit or switch right in the coolant
flow, and a T fitting won't let you do that. Wish someone had told the
Chicago Tribune syndicated "Motormouth" columnist that a couple of weeks
ago, before he told three million folks that you could do that.  :-(

>and I don't want to disturb 
>the computer's signal.

Nope.

>It's a 1986 Olds 307/4Bbl. It's been pinging a 
>lot, and I can't seem to get it to stop.

Just curious: what octane of fuel are you putting in? I used 89 routinely
in my '82, but _one_ tankful of 87 put in by someone who borrowed the car
gave me a lot of knocking until it was all gone...

>I see three sending units in the front of 
>the intake manifold, I assume the one in the very front is the oil 
>pressure sender, due to it's small neck circumference.

Well... You have idiot lights, right? For the single-wire sending units,
you can turn on the ignition and test to see which is which. The oil
pressure warning will be on, but will go _off_ as soon as you unplug
the wire from the sending unit (actually it's just a switch which is
grounding that circuit when the engine's not running), but come on again
when you ground the lead against the block. Find the temperature warning 
switch, the one you should be looking for, the same way by grounding its 
lead on the engine block to see whether the TEMP warning light goes on.

Don't mess with any sending unit having a twisted-pair (i.e. more than one)
wire attached; those are computer sensors.

Once you've found the temp sender switch, replace it with your Sun gauge
sender. The TEMP light won't work anymore (although the bulb in the dash
will come on during bulb proveout when you crank the starter), but you've
got a gauge in there now, which is better.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (William Goodnight)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:45:50 -0300
Subject: Re: '71 442 taillight bezels 

At 08:18 PM 7/7/96 -0300, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca wrote:
>
>
>On Fri, 5 Jul 1996, Darrell T. Weinman, M.D. wrote:
>
>> Dear Oldspersons:
>> 
>> Any information as to how to obtain '71 taillight bezels?
>> 
>
>Do you need lenses?  If Delta 88 lenses are same, I have some in excellant
condition.  My bezels are pitted but intact.  Make offer.

Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew A. Senko" <senko@reston.ans.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:52:14 -0300
Subject: Re: H/O sighted [2]

Drew Senko (me) wrote:

>> ...and one lonely Oldsmobile.  It's an '83 H/O Black and gray exterior.
>> Interior looked pretty good (to me).  The gauges claimed 62K miles.  The
>> car had 15" chrome SSII (or SSIII, they were chrome so what's the
>> difference?) wheels that needed some attention.  The bottoms of the doors
>> did not exhibit any deterioration.  The car also has a moonroof.

>> The H/O was one of the few cars on the lot that did not have a price on the
>> window.  The place was closed so I couldn't ask.  If anyone's interested,
>> the place was Gene's Auto Sales in Bridgeville Delaware.

Bill Gochenour queried:

> You didn't mention the color of the interior, was it maroon or snad gray?

To which I now reply:

It was maroon.  One more thing I remember now is that the trunk lid had
holes that would imply it used to have a spoiler.

                    _
                    |\            Convertibles                     
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)                  http://members.gnn.com/senko
.________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: rbishop@iAmerica.net (robert bishop)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 20:54:53 -0300
Subject: Re: '71 442 taillight bezels 

>Dear Oldspersons:
>
>Any information as to how to obtain '71 taillight bezels?
>
>Darrell T. Weinman, M.D.
>
>
>I have seen 71 taillight bezels in the Year One catalog for Olds. 
Robert Bishop  71 Olds Cutlass Supreme SX 455

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 12:58:14 -0300
Subject: Re: H/O sighted; replacing radiator 

     Too bad you didn't see a price on that H/O, it sounds like a pretty 
     good find.  From the description I'd say $4k maybe $5k would be a good 
     deal.  The moonroof is not a stock item that I've ever heard of on the 
     H/O's, probably an aftermarket addition?  Yes, that textured paint on 
     the rocker panels is stock.  It replaced the stainless rocker strips 
     that were on earlier G-bodies.  It's supposed to be tougher and resist 
     chipping from rocks much more than normal paint.  It seems to be doing 
     it's job on my H/O.
     
     I'm not sure I quite understand you about the transmission lines.  If 
     the car is just going to sit in your yard for the day while you take 
     the rad down with another car then you don't need to do anything.  
     I've just left the lines hanging there many times before and never 
     lost more than a few drops of fluid.  Just don't try to run the car 
     while they're off.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: H/O sighted; replacing radiator
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/8/96 8:27 AM

love with, and one lonely Oldsmobile.  It's an '83 H/O Black and gray exterior. 
Interior looked pretty good (to me).  The gauges claimed 62K miles.  The
car had 15" chrome SSII (or SSIII, they were chrome so what's the 
difference?) wheels that needed some attention.  The bottoms of the doors 
did not exhibit any deterioration.  The car also has a moonroof.
One strange thing, the lower sections of the body, the parts that 
were painted gray were not smooth, but had a textured look.

Now my only problem is, how do I plug the transmission line, or what
do I use to plug it for an entire day while I take the radiators with me to 
the shop?  Any suggestions?
     

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:03:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help... 

I have two questions:
          
Q1:
Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?... 

          NO!!!  Unlike today, in the 60's and early 70's, each GM 
          division had their own unique engines.  Despite the fact 
          that Pontiac, Buick, and Olds all had 455s, each was 
          different, with differnt bore and stroke.  No parts 
          interchange except the distributor cap and carb gasket!  
          Most "experts" who claim that these engines are the same are 
          drawing from their "extensive" Ford/Mopar experience, where 
          a single corporate engine line is used across divisions.
          
...Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400 was different than the Olds, and 
wouldn't bolt up anyway.

          He would also be wrong.  The Buick, Pontiac, and Olds TH400s are 
          all the same, with the same bellhousing bolt pattern (there may be 
          some internal differences in shift points, depending on whether 
          the trans was slated for a luxury car or a performance car).  The 
          only thing to look out for is the tailshaft length.  A-body cars 
          (Cutlass/Skylark/LeMans) have short tailshafts, while big cars 
          have long ones.  This impacts driveshaft length and crossmember 
          mount location, so get the right one.

Q2:
What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?

          Any 68-72 A-body (Cutlass/F-85/442/Skylark/Special/Gran 
          Sport/Tempest/LeMans/GTO/Malibu/Chevelle/Monte Carlo/Grand 
          Prix).  Note that there are a bunch of options here, with 
          12-bolt Type-C, 12-bolt Type-O, 10-bolt Type-C (8.2 inch 
          ring gear), 10-bolt Type-O, and 10-bolt Corporate (8.5 inch 
          ring gear).  Any one of these will physically bolt into your 
          car, however the U-joint sizes may be different.  And, of 
          course, the strength of each varies, with the 12-bolt 
          Type-C(hevy) as the strongest (and with the best parts 
          availability).  Do you care about originality or not?
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:01:31 -0300
Subject: Re: More FAQ info 

At 04:32 PM 5/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Here is some more info (for that missing/overlooked/stuff not there  stuff)
>
>for section B. ENGINES 1949 - 1964
>             1.  What CID's 
>
>
>61      394    10.0 to 1   4.125    3.69   325 @ 4600  435 @ 2800    4 bbl

Might add:
61-63    215    8.75 to 1   3.50     2.80   155 @ 4800  210 @ 3200    2 bbl
61-63    215   10.25 to 1   3.50     2.80   185 @ 4800  230 @ 3200    4 bbl
63       215   10.75 to 1   3.50     2.80   195 @ 4800  235 @ 3200    4 bbl

>62      394   10.25 to 1   4.125    3.69   330 @ 4600  440 @ 2800    4 bbl
>63-64   394    10.5 to 1   4.125    3.69   345 @ 4800  440 @ 3200    4 bbl

Might change:
>62-63   215   10.25 to 1   3.50     2.80   215 @ 4600  300 @ 3200    Turbo
(1 bbl)
 

>
>I thought that the 442 engine (400 - 455) was bronze, 350's were gold, &
455's were metallic blue up through 1972.
>
>Almost all of this info comes from the book "Oldsmobile, The Performance
>Years" by Martyn L. Schorr, published in 1983 by Quiksilver Communications.
>--
>Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
>dpauliso@metrolink.net
>
>
>
>Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

*215 information taken form 1961, 1962, 1963 Oldsmobile Chasis Manuals.

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:12:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Shift kits

I've heard that you shouldn't put the full-deal Trans Pak (B&M 
recalibrator, as opposed to the cheaper Shift Improver) on a trans with 
more than 50k miles on it.  Anyone have a clue as to why?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:15:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Shift kits 

  
>
>In a message dated 96-07-01 23:07:23 EDT, chip@in-motion.net (Chip McMann) 
>writes:
>     
>>One more thing.....Are Shift kits bad for a transmission???
>     
>  I know nothing about
>shift kits, except that I've heard guys talk about how they have one and 
>except for that I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to put one in the tranny as 
>is.
>
>Speaking of shift kits - I will be putting one in my 400 Turbo trans for my
455 Buick.  Stage 1 cars had a much stiffer shift than regular 455's.  What
is a good shift kit to stiffen up the shifts in my car without going to a
strip type conversion?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:23:01 -0300
Subject: Re: '71 442 taillight bezels

Delta 88 lenses are not close.

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:31:45 -0300
Subject: Re: SICK'EM BOYS!

>Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>> 
>> > Hey speaking of toro's, I've often wondered why they never reached a
>> > higher level of collectability? After all they were the " flag ship" 
>> > of the olds line, and i believe way ahead of there time.
>> 
>> Well, a lot of folks are more interested in performance, ya know... 
>> [uh-oh, *dons asbestos underwear*]
>> 
>> > really grown on me over the years and it woulndn't surprise me if 
>> > some day one of these will sit next to one of my 4-4-2s.
>> 
>> Grown on you, like a.. oh never mind, I think the water's hot enough 
>> already!
>> 
>> That VIRUS! It spreads & spreads! If only I had a -CARB- on the red 
>> one, I could still drive it around the fields, too!
>>
>> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

Watch it, Witt - we've been monitoring you over here on the Toro mini list.
Before you know it, you'll have a fleet of 5000 lb fwd monsters bearing-down
on you!!! :)


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:34:31 -0300
Subject: Re: SICK'EM BOYS!

> Watch it, Witt - we've been monitoring you over here on the Toro mini list.
> Before you know it, you'll have a fleet of 5000 lb fwd monsters bearing-down
> on you!!! :)
> 
> 
> -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

Good thinking!  He may be able to find good homes for those engines...

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:38:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help... 

At 06:06 PM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I have two questions:
>
>Q1:
>Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?  A few months ago, I found a

No, completely different design (just like their 350's and 400's are
completely different).

>Pontiac 455 with TH400 tranny for $600 (and the *ugly* car even came
>with it!).  The engine ran decent, but would need rebuilt.  Even still, I
>thought that was an excellent deal... but I passed it up, because I couldn't
>find anyone that was smart enough to answer this question.  Two
>different mechanics said, "yeah".  Then when I asked, "are you sure?",
>one said, "uh well", and the other one said, "sure I'm sure!", but he didn't
>look confident in himself.  Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400
>was different than the Olds, and wouldn't bolt up anyway.

Actually, the Pontiac and Olds TH400's *are* identical (man, that guy isn't
right about anything!). The B-O-P (Buick-Olds-Pontiac, and also Cadillac)
bellhousing patterns are identical, and differ only from Chevy within the GM
transmission line.

>Q2:
>What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
>bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
>got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
>looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the line.

Any '68-'72 A-body (Chevelle, Malibu, Cutlass, 442, Vista Cruiser, Tempest,
LeMans, GTO, Grand Prix (after '69), Monte Carlo, El Camino, Skylark, GS)
are all direct bolt-ins, except perhaps for the u-joints. I believe
positraction was an option on all these lines for all these years. The
earlier '64-'67 rear axles will also bolt-in, I believe, but are narrower;
fine if you want to fit more tire and modify the wheelwell.

>Thanks for the help...
>
>-BS
>
>

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:38:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Shift kits 

At 10:57 AM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>     On another note, I got to go out to the pull-n-save junkyard today.  I 
>     didn't find anything I was looking for, but I did see several smogger 
>     350's, an older 350 (no egr) with #5 heads and a 4bbl, and a big block 

That older 350 is probably a '69; good starting point for a small-block buildup.

>     (dunno the CID) in an old (also pre-egr) 98 w/ C heads and a 2-bbl.  

Likely a '68-'69 motor, also likely low-compression.

>     If anyone is interested they're in Spokane, WA.  The place wants about 
>     $160 for an entire engine (everything, including accessories, but you 
>     pull it), considerably less with a core exchange.  Heads were $24, 
>     manifolds $12.  Also less with core exchange.  I know C heads are 
>     valuable and I'da grabbed em if I had a use for them.

Yeah, sell them to Dick Miller Racing; Chris W., what's the going price on
these at the moment? Or have you flooded the market...?

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:05:34 -0300
Subject: '84  H/O

Recently rebuilt 307 [nightmare from hell story omitted]
Headers added.  Now idles rough or stalls.  Check engine 
code 12.

Any clues as to correct settings?

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:43:54 -0300
Subject: RE: fuel lines 

I drained the old gas out of my '72 Cutlass this morning. I pulled one of
the fuel lines from the back of the tank and siphoned it out. What I was
curious about is why are there four fuel lines out of the tank and where do
they all go?  

Some are for the fuel pump and the other 2 are for the vapor cannister.

Roger Borlase
http:\\www.microdata.com\rborlase

------------------------------

From: "Darrell T. Weinman, M.D." <bigd@wave.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 13:16:16 -0300
Subject: Digest

Dear Oldspersons:

Please change my "subscribe" to "subscribe digest"

Thanks,

DTW

------------------------------

From: "Darrell T. Weinman, M.D." <bigd@wave.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 13:09:09 -0300
Subject: Re: found 1966 Toronado for sale

Dear Paul:

Is that the Toro dog back of Rogue Animal Hospital used car lot?

DTW

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 17:13:11 -0300
Subject: Cars & Parts book (More Info)

The Cars & Parts book is available from C&P (don't have the #).  Don't 
try and order it from Classic Motorbooks.  It is in their catalogue, but 
they can't get it for some reason.  The cost was $20 or $25 bucks.  
There isn't anything new as far as you wanted to see <Chris>.  Like I 
said, worth it for the paint & trim and the info on newer cars.  

Man, do I give out specific info or what?  I can look up the C&P number 
if somebody needs it and include the exact price.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 23:56:33 -0300
Subject: NAOC Nationals 

Anyone going to the NAOC Nationals in Wheeling, WV this coming weekend?

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 00:01:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help... 

In a message dated 96-07-08 18:09:59 EDT, you write:

>Q2:
>What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
>bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
>got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
>looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the line.
>
>

The former owner of new '72 had the rear go out a while ago.  It was a
standard rear with a standard ratio.  He had a posi unit installed, but no
one has ever been able to figure out exactly what it is.  When I worked at
the Olds garage the fellas in the parts department tried to cross reference
the codes and I think they came up with something like a '73 to '77 Malibu.
 I'd like to go to a stock Olds posi but too much $$$.  See, those Chevies in
the bonesyards are good for something!

Paul

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 02:04:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help... 

>I have two questions:
>
>Q1:
>Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?  A few months ago, I found a
>Pontiac 455 with TH400 tranny for $600 (and the *ugly* car even came
>with it!).  The engine ran decent, but would need rebuilt.  Even still, I
>thought that was an excellent deal... but I passed it up, because I couldn't
>find anyone that was smart enough to answer this question.  Two
>different mechanics said, "yeah".  Then when I asked, "are you sure?",
>one said, "uh well", and the other one said, "sure I'm sure!", but he didn't
>look confident in himself.  Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400
>was different than the Olds, and wouldn't bolt up anyway.

First of all, every slackjaw who pretends to know anthing at all about cars
will tell you that an Oldsmobile
is a pontiac is a buick is a (shudder) C*evy.  Few people know better.  The
engines are not alike at all.  The Pontiac is identical in overall dimension
to an Olds 455.  According to a Petersen engine book I have from 1970 they
both had the following measurements.  legnth: 29in   width:30in  Height23in
The books say that the Pontiac has the same motor mount location as an
Oldsmobile, but I don't know if it the mounts are in exactly the same
postion relative to the facing that bolts to the transmission.  So the
engine may sit an inch or so closer or farther away from the radiator.  I'm
not sure.  The pontiac is probably a more viable swap than a Buick or Ch*vy
if you need a 455 but can't find an Olds.  I don't know for sure, I've never
tried.  I do know that a Pontiac 455 is a strong engine when
overhauled,(Mom's `ol Grandville was a damn fast car.) and is capable of
producing torque and HP numbers close to an Olds 455.  

Another thing.  People trying to unload a crappy  car with a 455 will tell
you anything.  I was looking at a trashed `73 or `74 98 Royale and the guy
who was trying to sell it told me any parts off the car would fit my `72
F-85 wagon.  I hate it when they think that just because you look 18 you're
completely ignorant.  The only things that interchange between thoes two
cars are the engine and transmission and maybe the battery.  I'm glad I knew
better at the time, having allready tried to get tie rod ends from a custom
cruiser to fit my car...Lucky I kept the reciept.  So in case you din't
allready know, the big Oldsmobiles interchange hardly anything with the
little ones.           
>Q2:
>What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
>bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
>got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
>looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the line.

I couldn't tell you, I'd like to know myself.

Greg

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------------------------------------------------
The Hybrid Electric Vehicle Team of Virginia Tech
http://www.vt.edu:10021/org/hybridcar/index.html
FIRST PLACE IN THE `96 FUTURECAR CHALLENGE
49mpg city;  0-60 in 12 sec 

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 02:11:48 -0300
Subject: Re: NAOC Nationals 

>Anyone going to the NAOC Nationals in Wheeling, WV this coming weekend?
>
>Paul
>
I was wondering what NAOC stood for, I can't remember.  Where and
when(exacly) is it?

Thanks, 
Greg

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------------------------------------------------
The Hybrid Electric Vehicle Team of Virginia Tech
http://www.vt.edu:10021/org/hybridcar/index.html
FIRST PLACE IN THE `96 FUTURECAR CHALLENGE
49mpg city;  0-60 in 12 sec 

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 00:13:47 -0300
Subject: RE: Priming oil pump, windage tray and cup plug Q's 

At 06:28 PM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>1) Should the oil pump be primed in some way before I install it on the
>>engine? I've heard of people packing it with vaseline or another type of
[SNIP]
>What I do is this. Get an old distributor and take the shaft out of it. 
>Grind the gear teeth (only)  off the bottom then grind down the other 
>end to fit a drill. Once the engine is in place install this tool in 
>your drill then insert in the distributor hole.

I was going to use the old oil pump driveshaft driven by a drill, connected
to the new driveshaft (by two 5/16" allen-headed socket screws, joined by a
hex coupler). I noticed that unlike the SB Ch*vy, there are no oil passages
in the Olds distributor, so the body is not necessary to spin the oil pump
and get pressure.

My question is whether I have to fill or prime the pump *before* I install
it. Will it be able to suck the oil from the pan without any prior preparation?

> Spin your tool until you start to see oil coming out of some of your 
>pushrods. At this point try and push down on all the rockers from the 
>pushrod side. You will hear and feel a faint squirt as oil totally 
>fills your lifters. Now turn your engine over by hand about 1/4 turn and 
>repeat. This is because not all lifter oil holes are exposed at one time 
>so you have to do this until all rockers are firm to the push. At this 
>point you can acuratley adjust your lifter preload.

I put the lifters in a cup of oil and use a pushrod to press the plunger
down until no more air bubbles come out. That pretty much fills them up, and
gives the oiling system a head-start.

>>2) I've installed Mondello's windage tray on the bottom end, and have a few
>>questions about its "fit to application" nature. I dimpled the tray to clear
>>the rod bolts; should the edges be bent inward, however, to a specific
>>distance from the crank's counterweights in order to scrape off the oil? How
>>exactly should it fit?
>
>This windage tray is a real piece of crap. Mondello should have much better 
>quality for the price he charges for a bent bit of steel. At any rate this 
>is a windage tray not a crank scraper. It should be a min. distance of 0.60 
>from any moving part. More clearance will not make any difference.

The metal is quite soft, and easy to form. You're right, though; this
windage tray is something that any 7th-grade shop class could use as a
beginner's project. Do you mean .60" or .060" clearance? Do I really need
over a half-inch of clearance between the rods and the tray? I hope my
bottom end doesn't move around *that* much!

>>Yes, I have the Mondello tech guide, but all he talks about is dimpling the
>>oil pan to clear the studs (BTW, a note to JM; hire a professional editor
>>for your next edition of that manual. The excellent information you do
>>provide is muddled by your (dis)organization of material, your sentence
>>structure (please, at least one noun and one verb in each sentence), and
>>your grammar.)
>
>I agree completely.
>
>>Has anyone here on this list installed on of these pans? Any tips/warnings?
>When you dimple your pan try and use as little heat as possible as it will 
[SNIP]
I'm still wondering what I would have to dimple; my oil pan fit with no
interference whatsoever.

>3) Finally, the rebuild kit included a freeze-plug package, but I'm at a
>loss as to where some of the plugs they provide go. The cam plug and the
>freeze plugs are pretty self evident; it's the specs on the rear left oil
>galley plug that I need help on (the one that covers up the threaded galley
>plug). There are three plugs left in the kit: 19/32" (definitely not it),
>29/32" and 15/16" plugs. It appears as though either of these last two plugs
>could be used for that hole, but I don't want to use up one meant for
>another place where the other plug *wouldn't* work.
>
>>Can't help there sorry.

Awww, that's the one I really need help with. Anyone?


- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 00:26:09 -0300
Subject: Toro governor gear- Good source found 

Well, solved the TH425 shifting problems. The governor's gear was chewed
right up. The governor is described in the shop manual as being serviced
only as a complete unit. *Nobody* seems to carry this part new (Not
Oldsmobile USA, not Fusick, not Kanter), though there are certainly enough
used Toros around to donate a used piece. It seemed like a shame to replace
the whole thing, though, since the governor weights and springs were in
perfect condition; it was just the plastic gear that had committed hari-kari.

So I call a tranny shop down the street from my new house; it's the kind of
place that has been in business in this same location for about 35 years. I
ask if they have a unit lying about; sorry, they say, no governors around,
but they *do* have a plastic gear service piece, for all of $5.00!  :)

The counter guy says they had about 300 of them when he started working
there 18 years ago; they're now down to about 150 or so(!). So, should
anyone be in need of a governor gear for the TH425 in their Toro (symptoms:
car only in 1st or 3rd in "D", accompanied by no speedo/odometer movement),
the place to call is:

        Portland Transmission Company
        290 Smith St.
        Providence, RI 02908-4997 

        (401) 455-8300
        (800) 556-6496

That supply will probably last for about another 25 years or so, so no need
to stock up right now (though I picked up two; probably a lifetime supply).
Interestingly enough, he said that the same part is also used on a Firetruck(!).

Well, tomorrow I install this part, get an exhaust, and have a fine-running
'69 Toro (I hope!).


- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 02:54:52 -0300
Subject: Re: NAOC Nationals

Greg Pruett wrote:
> 
> >Anyone going to the NAOC Nationals in Wheeling, WV this coming weekend?
> >
> >Paul
> >
> I was wondering what NAOC stood for, I can't remember.  Where and
> when(exacly) is it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Greg
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------------------------------------------------
> The Hybrid Electric Vehicle Team of Virginia Tech
> http://www.vt.edu:10021/org/hybridcar/index.html
> FIRST PLACE IN THE `96 FUTURECAR CHALLENGE
> 49mpg city;  0-60 in 12 sec
> Hello!! It's national antique oldsmobile club, they have a nice newsletter called runabout's to rocket's.

------------------------------

From: sfindley@slps.k12.mo.us (S. Findley)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 02:04:39 -0300
Subject: remote login 

        Hello it's me again.  I have been trying the remote for a little
over two hours.

        I am able to begin the login procedure.  The machine takes my user
id and passwords and the modem sends them off to the server, which logs me
in, connects, and turns off my carrier.  The  The line "St. Louis Public
Schools Communications Server" and then "Where?" appear on the screen.  At
this point the IP Address should be assigned, but the script aborts.

        I am at a loss here.  I will be up until around 11:30 tonite and at
school tomorow, at 8:15.  If you will be around at 11:15 tomorrow I can
meet with you then.

        My phone number is 469-6094 if you want to call me.


                Thanks for all your help,
                        Sue Findley

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 01:02:12 -0300
Subject: Cars and Parts for sale in NY/NE area (not mine!) 

Here are some of the olds-related listings for the Bargain News that I got
from their web site (www.bargainnews.com). Lots of interesting stuff in
here, especially the H/O & W-30 parts. AS usual, none of these listings are
mine, so don't contact me about the cars or parts.
**********************************

66 TORONADO, ps, pb, air, florida car, $5000 or best offer. (203) 865-0964=
=20

69 TORONADO, runs, needs rear quarter, $1500. (203) 274-4915=20

76 TORONADO, runs good, needs minor body work, p/everything, 455 engine,
FWD, 2 dr coupe, red, new tires, air shocks,
exhaust, $900 or best offer. (203) 729-3271=20

70 CUTLASS CONVERTIBLE, Rocket 350, automatic, runs good, needs work, $1200
or best offer. (203) 426-4558=20

70 CUTLASS SUPREME convertible, Rocket 350, 4 BBL, new GM, quarters
installed, car in apart undergoing restoration work,
asking $1700 or best offer. (203) 374-5401=20

70 CUTLASS SUPREME, 2 dr, hard top, 350, 4 bbl, 12 bolt rear, $450. (917)
249-8836=20

70 CUTLASS SX, custom paint, Pro Shop drive train, complete brakes, shocks,
springs, p/windows, p/tilt, air, buckets, console,
$3500. (917) 281-5175 (BX)=20

71 CUTLASS CONV'T, 455 ci, 400 auto trans, 12 bolt posi, buckets, console,
12 bolt posi, runs strong, solid condition, stock. (203)
366-6683=20

72 CUTLASS CONVERTIBLE, newly restored, too much to list, $10,500. (718)
847-1093=20

72 CUTLASS SUPREME, convertible, Rocket 350, dual exhaust, new top with
glass rear window, factory air & rims, $6500 or best
offer. (203) 799-1999=20

76 CUTLASS SUPREME, 2 dr, one owner, 112,000 mi, $700. (203) 878-0586 aft=
 6pm=20

77 CUTLASS SALON, t-top, 65,000 miles, original owner, runs well, body needs
work, best offer. (203) 966-5066=20

77 CUTLASS SUPREME, mint shape, 83,000 original miles, asking $1600. (203)
468-9449=20

77 CUTLASS SUPREME, very little rust, runs well, $1300. (203) 732-3137=20

77 CUTLASS, 2 dr, 350 engine, orig owner, asking $1200. (914) 937-2291=20

38 OLDS TOURING SEDAN, 4 door, flathead 6 cyl, 3 spd on floor, radio,
heater, everything new or rebuilt, recent body off
restoration, some extra body parts, $8500. (860) 873-8307 aft 5pm=20

39 CADILLAC HOLIDAY COUPE, all original, except 54 Olds motor, was the start
of a rod back in the 50's, $14,000. (860)
443-0594=20

39 OLDS COUPE, gd cond, 77 Nova subframe, 10 bolt rear, no eng or trans,
$3000. (203) 261-6372=20

40 OLDS 60 SERIES, 4 door, mint, $10,500. (516) 462-1820 (S)=20

63 OLDS DYNAMIC 88 CONV'T, 394 engine, ps, auto, gold, black interior,
64,000 miles, exc cond, asking $5900. (516) 981-4190
8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat=20

66 OLDS CUTLASS, ps, p/antenna, p/trunk, black & white, 330 ultra high
compression, 320hp, 62,000 orig mi, $2000. (203)
741-0498=20

71 OLDS CUTLASS CONVERTIBLE, 350 auto, ps, p/disc brakes, air, factory mags,
new exhaust, $2200 or trade. (516) 794-6437=20

67 OLDS CUTLASS, 2 dr hard top, gray, black vinyl top, 330 V8 eng, excellent
cond, asking $5495. (203) 239-7246 until 11:30am
or aft 5:30pm (28)=20

69 OLDS DELTA 88, 2 dr, 455, TH400, 108,000 original miles, excellent
condition, $1400. (203) 888-7024 lv message (28)=20

32 OLDSMOBILE, rare, small V8, gd body, runs well, rebuilt auto trans, $3000
or best offer. (860) 663-3351 aft 5pm=20

53 CADILLAC FLEETWOOD, 4 dr, late model chassis, 455 Olds powered, running
cond, $1500. (860) 444-1215 eves & wknds=20

54 OLDS SUPER ROCKET 88, complete, $425. (203) 929-0777=20

56 OLDSMOBILE 88 HOLIDAY, 4 door, $800 or best offer. (203) 264-3635=20

57 OLDS S-88, 4 dr hard top, very gd cond, asking $3500. (203) 366-8774=20

59 OLDS SUPER 88 HOLIDAY, hardtop, 2 tone green & white, 394 4 bbl, 315hp,
auto, runs exc, body in gd shape, needs finishing,
exc orig int, plastic on seats from factory, $1500 OBO. (201) 628-0409=20

60 OLDS DYNAMIC 88, 2 dr hardtop, mint, 30,000 orig mi, no rust, repaint
only, done up as mild late 50's type custom, bolt-on
items only, $9500 firm. (201) 347-3114=20

60 OLDSMOBILE SUPER 88 CONV'T, for restoration, make offer. (203) 853-4076=
=20

64 OLDS F85, rebuilt 330-V8, Holley carb, 350 Turbo trans, 373, 12 bolt,
posi, runs exc, body needs work, $1200 firm. (516)
796-3398 (N)=20

65 OLDS STARFIRE CONV'T, in primer, ready to paint, factory a/c, full power,
needs interior work, $3750. (516) 487-7001=20

65 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS, 2 dr Sedan, 8 cyl, garaged, one owner, good cond,
$2500 or best offer. (203) 269-8528=20

66 OLDS 98, restored, 425 engine, full power, garaged winters otherwise
driven daily, many new parts, $2200. (203) 274-2807=20

66 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME CON'T, original cond, needs restoration, $2500.
(516) 424-5517 (S)=20

66 OLDS CUTLASS, 62,000 orig miles, all power, exc cond, black & white, 330
ultra high compression, 320hp, $2300 or best offer.
(203) 741-0498=20

67 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME, 330 4 bbl, ps, pb, air, aqua green, black int,
bucket seats, needs some work, runs exc, $1500
nego. (718) 956-0809 eves=20

67 OLDS CUTLASS, 2 door, 52,000 miles, good glass and vinyl, 250, straight
6, good for restoration, best offer. (203) 878-0347 aft
7:30pm Mark=20

68 OLDS CUTLASS CONV'T, rare, factory red w/air, new top & tranny, stainless
steel brakes, suspension, $4250 or best offer.
(914) 939-6637=20

68 OLDS CUTLASS S 2DR, exc body and int, buckets, console, 442 hood, no
rust, new motor and tranny optional, $650 neg. (718)
241-4378 anytime=20

69 OLDS 442 CONVERT, looks & runs great, new paint, new top, 455, asking
$5500. (718) 658-8963=20

69 OLDS 442, 2 dr HT, orig owner, 75,000 orig mi, full pwr, air, disc
brakes, black on black, $7500. (203) 322-7255=20

69 OLDS 98 CONV'T, ps, pb, auto, 455, needs right 3/4 nose, runs like new,
$1950. (413) 732-8899 days=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS CONV'T, needs minor work, $1500. (516) 922-7679 (N)=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS, 4 door, ps, pb, new vinyl top, 150,000 miles, looks and
runs great, orig owner, $3000. (203) 625-8764=20

70 OLDS CONVERTIBLE, mint cond, everything new, chrome bumpers, $6500. (518)
784-4122=20

70 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME, 350, 4 bbl, turbo hydromatic 350, 442 dual exhaust
w/cutout bumper & trumpets, new
interior,factory cruise guages & tach,a/c, too much to list, $1200 nego.
(718) 241-4378=20

72 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME, 2 dr HT, 350 rocket motor, 1 owner, auto on floor,
p/windows, air, am/fm, rallys w/locking center
caps, 85,000 original mi, extra parts, must sell, asking $1500. (201)=
 641-0792=20

73 OLDS DELTA 88 CONVERTIBLE, new top, rugs, tires, runs exc, exc cond,
$2900 or best offer. (203) 373-9084=20

75 OLDS, 4 dr, 350, auto, gd cond, 60,000 orig mi, $600. (860) 824-0300=20

76 OLDS, 2 dr, runs good, no dents, minor rust, $250. (516) 563-7273 (S)=20

66 OLDS 442 CONV'T, rare factory tri-power, 1 of 230, 4 spd, forest green
w/white top & interior, second owner, like new North
Carolina car, $16,000. (516) 742-7523=20

66 OLDS 98 CONV'T, needs engine work, asking $1500. (914) 763-8400=20

71 OLDS CUTLASS S, 2 dr hardtop, reblt 350 rocket motor, new tires, new gas
tank, int mint, gold w/black vinyl top, new dual
exhaust, must sell, asking $2300 nego. (201) 641-0792 aft 3pm=20

77 OLDS 98, 4 dr, all power, many new parts, $500 or best offer. (718)=
 380-4475=20

77 OLDS CUTLASS SALON, 350, runs exc, air, am/fm radio, 350, clean, needs
minor body work, $500. (718) 738-1797=20

68 OLDS CUTLASS S 2DR, exc body and int, buckets, console, 442 hood, no
rust, new motor and tranny optional, $650 neg. (718)
241-4378 anytime=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS CONVERT, 350, auto, $2000. (516) 922-7679=20

71 OLDS, hardtop, hit in front, gd running, no rot, asking $900. (718)=
 822-7023=20

71 OLDSMOBILE 442, 2 dr, hardtop, 4000 mi on prof restoration, 455, V8, 4
spd, posi rear, gauges, air, mint cond, $9895 or best
offer. (203) 270-9972 aft 5pm=20

72 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME CONV'T 454, restored, new paint, new int, new top
chrome Olds mags, must see, asking $8000.
(718) 792-4875=20

72 OLDS CUTLASS SUREME, 2 dr, V8, 350 rocket body in primer, hit fender,
runs mint, must sell, $200 firm. (516) 924-1229 Kevin=20

39 OLDS PARTS, tail/brake lights w/license plate light & bracket, factory
orig, never used, $125 pr. (516) 266-3305 leave message=20

48 OLDS 98 DRIVETRAIN, 59,000 mi, straight 8, auto, runs/drives, $500 or
trade. (516) 794-6437=20

48 OLDS PARTS, rearend, front suspension. (516) 499-1231=20

54 OLDS 88 PARTS, complete rear end, rear bumper, side mouldings, etc. (203)
378-8336=20

56 OLDS FIESTA spinner hubcaps, orig, vgd cond, set of 4, $150; 59 Cadillac
orig bullet taillight, set of 4, $150. (718) 948-0943 aft
6pm=20

56 OLDS HOLIDAY WINDSHIELD, for sedan, tinted, in exc cond, in custom made
wooden box, best offer. (203) 637-4223=20

62 OLDS F85 FOR PARTS, needs total restoration, not running, $500. (914)
423-6305=20

65 OLDS 330 CU IN ENGINE, needs rebuild, forged crank, $250; 59 VW engine,
36hp, needs rebuild, $200. (718) 836-6629
4pm-10pm=20

65 OLDS CUTLASS TRUNK LID, $50. (203) 929-6526=20

66 OLDS TURBO 400 TRANS, w/converter, $40; late 60's mopar 4 spd trans,
$125; orig shifter w/rods, $50. (516) 593-1931=20

67 OLDS CUTLASS CONV, parting out, 330 V8 automatic. (203) 234-7300=20

68 OLDS 442 PARTS, cut-out bumper, tach & gauges, radiator support, Hurst
Olds exhaust manifolds, NOS hood chrome, grille,
headlight housings, taillight lens. (914) 472-4977=20

68 OLDS CUTLASS REAR BUMPER, mint cond, 442 grilles NOS, grille emblem bar
NOS.. (914) 472-4977=20

68 OLDS CUTLASS REAR BUMPER, not 442, rechromed, 68 442 or Cutlass new GM
front bumper, has shelf wear. (516) 796-3899=20

68 PONTIAC GTO parting out, 69 442 convertible, 69 Olds Cutlass convt, 70
LeMans convt, 70 Impala convt, 70 Cutlass hardtop
and more. (516) 254-2278=20

69 OLDS 350 MOTOR, $200, also 350 Olds HP completly rebuilt, $650 neg. (718)
241-4378 anytime=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS radiator support, $150; 69 Chevelle radiator support & rear
bumper, make offer; 79 Z28 p/doors, $200; parting
out 67 Chrysler New Yorker, 56 Chrysler Windsor, more. (516) 841-0940 days,
John=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS CONV parting out, 350 automatic. (203) 234-7300=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS, hood, trunk lid, right hand door, disc brake
setup, 336 10 bolt posi rear. (516) 753-0720 aft
4pm=20

69 OLDS CUTLASS PARTS, doors w/pwr windows, doors with posts, glass, bk int,
bumpers, taillights, a/c unit, 12 bolt non posi
rear, fenders, much more (718) 241-4378=20

69 OLDS HURST orig hood scoop, also 83-84 hood, 83-84 hood scoop. (516)
753-0720 aft 4pm=20

70 OLDS 442, factory fenders, left & right, factory ram air cleaner, factory
rally pack. (203) 281-1172=20

70 OLDS CUTLASS GRILLES, mint cond, $75. (914) 472-4977=20

70 OLDS PARTS, Cutlass & 442 rechromed front bumper, rear quarter skins,
rear tail light lenses, rally rims, disc brakes, 4 spd
trans, 10 bolt posi 336 gears. (516) 579-2611=20

70-72 OLDS 442 CONVERTIBLE quarters, NOS, $1000; 1975-77 Olds 442/Cutlass
Hurst hatches and roof bands, NOS, $800 or
trade. (914) 624-3878=20

70-72 OLDS CUTLASS 350 MOTOR, disc brakes, wheel moldings, fenders & hoods,
rear bumper, am/fm radio, doors, buckets,
console, interior, more. (203) 879-1087=20

70-72 OLDS PARTS, dual gauge shifter; wheel well moldings, NOS 70 headlight
housings; NOS side marker lenses in box; NOS
hood pins, 70 taillights, rear bumper, chrome; 64-65 chrome air cleaner,
much more. (914) 939-6637=20

70-72 OLDS PARTS, fenders, mint cond, $375; 70 Ram air hood, mint cond,
$1000; 70 Cutlass grills, 71 Supreme grills, 71 442
grills w/emblem, sport steering wheel, p/trunk, much more. (914) 939-6637=20

71 OLDS 442 SS1 RIMS, 14x7, with BF Goodrich radials, white letter. (516)
796-3899=20

71 OLDS CUTLASS BACK WINDOW, $35; chrome hood hinges for 71-72 Cutlass, $50;
windshield wiper motor & all mechanisms
for 79 Camaro, $25; brake booster & master cyl for 79 Camaro, $20; more.
(516) 254-6824=20

71-72 OLDS CUTLASS BACK WINDOW $35; chrome hood hinges for 71-72 Cutlass
Supreme, $50; windshield wiper motor &
mechanism for 79 Camaro, $25; brake booster & master cyl. (516) 254-6824=20

71-72 OLDS CUTLASS PARTS, p/windows, doors, Ram Air hood, flat hood,
radiator support, Rally II mag whls, more. (516)
794-6437=20

71-72 OLDS CUTLASS PARTS, new GM radiator support, never used; 2 used front
fenders, rear quarter panels, used trunk floor kit,
rally rims, disc brake setup, 336 10 bolt posi. (516) 753-0739=20

72 OLDS 455 ENGINE, turbo 400 trans. (718) 224-3094=20

72 OLDS AM/FM RADIO, $125. (516) 221-3644=20

75 OLDS HURST HOOD, $75 & $125, grills, tank lid, front seats, ripped frnt,
brake rotors, turbo 400 core, taillights, many misc.
(914) 946-8160=20

77 OLDSMOBILE MOTOR, 403, turbo 350, 10 bolt posi rear, disc brakes, ps, on
rolling chassis, $450 or best offer. (203) 879-1776=20

83-84 HURST OLDS new wheels, 15x7 all chrome w/red stripe; also used 87 442
rims, gold stripe style. (516) 753-0739 aft 4pm=20

86 OLDS 442 FACTORY MAGS, 15x7, chrome style, all 4, with center caps. (516)
579-2611 or (516) 753-0720 aft 4pm=20

BBC 7/16 CRANK PUSH RODS, 7/16 die plates, 7/16 stud, $125 set; parting out
72 Supreme, fresh cut 1010 crank & bearings, for
350 Olds, $100; Olds stock 350 oil pan, $10. (516) 254-6824=20

CHEVY ATI DISTRIB, $25; Olds ATI distrib, $15; stock 4 bbl Chevy manifold,
$25; stock Chevy 2 bbl manifold & carb, old style,
works gd, $50 both; Olds 425 J heads, 500 mi on rebuild. (516) 254-6824=20

CHRYSLER 318 ENG & 904 TRANS, $300; Olds 4 spd bellhousing & stand flywhl,
$100; chrome short water pump for SBC, $35; 4
spd pedal setup for 79 Camaro, $75; passenger fender for 80 Regal, $35.
(516) 254-6824=20

ENGINE, 350 Rocket, 350 turbo trans from 76 Olds, $500 both. (516) 467-6087=
=20

INDYMATIC AUTOMATIC SHIFTER, looks like 4 spd, $15; alum MT valve covers for
Olds 350-455, $20; rear taillights for 79-81
Camaro, $15; rear taillight harness for 79-81 Camaro, $5; hood hinges. (516)
254-6824=20

MAG WHEELS & BEAUTY RINGS, 4, for Olds, 15 x 7, $100 negotiable; 3 chrome &
black western mag rims & tires, 15 x 7, $60
negotiable; buckets for 72 Cutlass Supreme, rear seats, $250 set, more.
(516) 254-6824=20

OLDS HEADERS, BB, 65-76 Cutlass 442 wagon, 71-76 Delta 88, new, $100; SB,
68-77 442 Cutlass, 71-81 Fireird, $80. (914)
632-4184=20

OLDS NOS PARTS: 41-90 RF fender stone guard, 50 98 center grill bar, 51 tail
light chrome housings, 52-53 88 & Super 88 2 dr
rear quarter spears, 59 tail light bezel, more. (203) 378-2268=20

OLDS TURBO 350 TRANS, $200. (516) 221-3644=20

STOCK BB CHEVY OIL PAN, $20; stock 350 Olds oil pan, $15; 350 Olds oil pump
& screen, new, $20; 4 stock Olds mag whls &
beauty rings, 15 x 7, $100 negotiable. (516) 254-6824=20

TIRES AND RIMS, Olds Super Stock II wheels, complete w/215/70R14 radial
tires, exc cond, $250 set of 4. (914) 472-4977=20

59 OLDSMOBILE TAIL LIGHTS, NOS, $40 pair. (860) 649-8821=20

64-72 OLDS CUTLASS 442, Nova, Camaro, Firebird, Skylark, Lemans, many
various parts, too much to list. (516) 795-5329=20

67 OLDS 4 DOOR front seat, black, exc cond, best offer. (860) 346-5008=20

68 OLDS 88 PARTS, doors, hood, grill, trunk, $150. (860) 649-8821=20

69 OLDS 442 PARTS, 4 spd shifter, $75, 4 spd setup, $150, NOS grill, $50,
auto trans/console, $50, M20 trans, needs assembly,
$225, plus other parts. (203) 269-9951=20

70 OLDS 350 MOTOR, complete, runs exc, 92,000 orig mi, $250. (203) 238-3663=
=20

70 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME grilles, mint, $75; 70 Olds 442 sports steering
wheel, mint, $95. (914) 472-4977=20

70-72 OLDS CUTLASS PARTING OUT all parts except engine & trans. (203)
387-9129 Mark=20

70-72 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 442 parts: rust free fenders, rad support, trunk
lid, dash, int, drs, fact mags, bucket seats &
console, disc brakes, more. (203) 238-3663=20

71-72 OLDS 442 BUMPER core, exc cond, $350. (914) 472-4977=20

74 OLDS 455 ENGINE, $300. (203) 933-4186=20

74 OLDS CUTLASS PARTS, hood, $100; left & right front fenders, $75 ea; left
& right drs w/glass, $100 ea; rear bumper, $50. (203)
263-4144=20

77 OLDS 350 MOTOR, 30,000 mi, $300. (203) 263-4144=20

77 OLDS CUTLASS PARTS, auto, 350, runs good, whole for parts, $550. (203)
589-8360=20

81 OLDSMOBILE 307, rebuilt, runs mint, chrome valve covers, 4 barrel carb,
trans, new starter, $500 firm. (203) 265-1935=20

83 OLDSMOBILE HURST, steering columns, $150; 79 Hurst Olds w/wheel, $150; 77
Cutlass, $75; 68 Camaro, $75; 70 Camaro,
$75. (914) 946-8160=20

83-86 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME fenders only, $45 each. (718) 439-8796 (B)=20

ENGINES, 350 Olds, 350 Pontiac, $350 each. (203) 735-4634=20

GM TURBO 350 TRANSMISSION, auto, from Buick, Olds & Pontiac 301 engine, $75.
(516) 736-0774=20

OLDS 350 ENGINE, 50,000 mi, rebuilt cam, fits Cadillac, Olds, etc, ready for
installation, $295. (718) 417-7357=20

OLDS 350 TRANS, $200. (516) 221-3644=20

OLDS 455 ENGINE, built by Ceralli, forged pistons, roller rockers, Arp
hardware, NOS 4 spd crank, can demonstrate, $1800. (212)
942-0452=20

OLDS BB HEADERS, $40, non EGR 4 bbl intake & new gasket and 1'' spacer, $60,
18'' 7 blade flex fan, $20, autofloor shifter/black
console, 68 442, near mint,$70. (203) 230-9516 Phil=20

OLDS CUTLASS 442 PARTS, manual steering box, $125; 71 W-30 turbo 400, $700;
68 W-30 Ram Air scoops, $100. (212)
942-0452=20


copyright=A91996 Bargain News, LLC. All Rights Reserved=20

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: atsmith@icnet.net (Andrew Smith)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 01:36:57 -0300
Subject: 1988 Toronado Trofeo Cpe

I am looking at buying a 1988 Toranado Trofeo.. It has all the options 
and 115,000 miles. The dealer is asking for $6000.. Is that what its 
worth? Everything is in perfect condition, leather seats and everything. 
Is this is rip or worth the dough?

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:57:40 -0300
Subject: Re: '84  H/O 

     Check engine code 12 is normal.  Means no signal from tach, which is 
     correct because the engine isn't running when you're testing.
     
     Some random ideas and things to check:
     
     Make sure jumper is removed from ALDL, unplug battery for a minute or 
     two to totally reset the computer for the new engine.
     
     Could be a nasty vacuum leak.
     
     Likely something wrong with the carburetor.  Check the float level 
     (you can use an external dipstick-style plastic gauge) and clean the 
     idle circuits out with carb cleaner and then compressed air.  Check 
     the settings of the TPS and idle mixture solenoid.  The idle mixture 
     solenoid is a tricky adjustment, you'd best have a manual for that.  
     TPS is pretty easy.  The idle mixture screws are used to fine-tune the 
     idle mixture _ONLY_AFTER_ setting the idle mixture solenoid correctly.
     
     I thought maybe a bad O2 sensor might be the culprit too, but it 
     occurred to me that it should still idle okay while the engine is 
     warming up since the computer hasn't entered closed-loop mode yet and 
     will be ingorning the O2 sensor.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: '84  H/O
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/8/96 6:57 PM


Recently rebuilt 307 [nightmare from hell story omitted] 
Headers added.  Now idles rough or stalls.  Check engine 
code 12.
     
Any clues as to correct settings?
     

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 05:47:18 -0300
Subject: Re: H/O sighted [2]

Andrew A. Senko wrote:
> 
> Drew Senko (me) wrote:
> 
> >> ...and one lonely Oldsmobile.  It's an '83 H/O Black and gray exterior.
> >> Interior looked pretty good (to me).  The gauges claimed 62K miles.  The
> >> car had 15" chrome SSII (or SSIII, they were chrome so what's the
> >> difference?) wheels that needed some attention.  The bottoms of the doors
> >> did not exhibit any deterioration.  The car also has a moonroof.
> 
> >> The H/O was one of the few cars on the lot that did not have a price on the
> >> window.  The place was closed so I couldn't ask.  If anyone's interested,
> >> the place was Gene's Auto Sales in Bridgeville Delaware.
> 
> Bill Gochenour queried:
> 
> > You didn't mention the color of the interior, was it maroon or snad gray?
> 
> To which I now reply:
> 
> It was maroon.  One more thing I remember now is that the trunk lid had
> holes that would imply it used to have a spoiler.
> 
>                     _
>                     |\            Convertibles
>      .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
>      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
>      =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)                  http://members.gnn.com/senko
> .________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________
Holes in the deck lid does mean it had a spoiler, wait till you try to 
find the oem spoiler. That item will run you $650 easy, before paint, 
trust me I just got a replacement one for myself. Not fun.

- -- 
Bill !                                        _           _       ___
                                            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
83 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition     /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
86 442 The Perfect "10"                 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
                                       |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|

            See the site at http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:57:19 -0300
Subject: Re: '84  H/O 

     I forgot the most obvious thing to check.  The timing chain could be 
     off a tooth, that would cause exactly the symptoms noted.

     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: '84  H/O
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET 
Date:    7/8/96 6:57 PM
     
     
Recently rebuilt 307 [nightmare from hell story omitted] 
Headers added.  Now idles rough or stalls.  Check engine 
code 12.
     
Any clues as to correct settings?
     

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 03:10:19 -0300
Subject: Re: The Final Oil Down!!! 

Hi Andrew, 
the upgrade is done to retain high oil pressure and higher temps.  I should
explain
that the motor break-in is done is the summer months.  My car likes to run at
temps 
of 190 to 200 degrees.  The extra 1000 miles is to insure that the motor is
really 
broke in.   If I stayed with 10w40 the car would run fine, but I prefer the
higher 
viscosity of a racing oil.  The 20w50 seems to handle the abuse better.  
But the best is to run synthetic by personel experience.  Their is a group of
ten 
other fellows with Olds that I cruise and race with and we have collected
data 
amongst ourselves that shows what works and what doesn't.   The group
consists
of     1.  69 442   2. 72 cutlass supreme   3.  65 442   4.  70 442   
5. 72 cutlass post coupe  6.  70 W-30   7.  80 cutlass supreme  8. 72 cutlass
s
9. 72 W-30  10. 71 442 W-30  11. 72 cutlass s  12. 72 cutlass supreme 

We are all running 455's bored from .030 to .060 and if you are able to
attend the 
Mondello Olds Nats on July 14th (next Sunday)  you will see our group.
The 69 442 is Bright Orange and you can't miss it .

------------------------------

From: davei@mail.idt.net (Dave Isho)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 04:49:35 -0300
Subject: Re: any 330's? 

>Anyone have a '67 330 engine lying about, dismantled? The one with casting ID
>"3"? If so, please contact me, I have a question for you.
>--
>Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>wittchri@pilot.msu.edu


I was just getting ready to trash one this week...havn't checked the casting
ID, will do that today...What's your question about it?
Dave Isho (67 Cutlass CS Conv.)
D & S Limousine
and Sedan Service

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 08:09:42 -0300
Subject: Parts...

I just talked to one of my friends who purchased a bunch of my Oldsmobile 
parts from me a while back and he is moving. The parts gotta go, he is 
sending a complete list to me but here is some of the stuff:

- - 1971 OG TH-400, out of 1971 442.
- - 1971 442 steel hood, paint stripped, rust free (not OAI).
- - 1972 complete doors, rust free, paint stripped.
- - 1970 (?) rear decklid, rust free, paint stripped.
- - 1971 442 Disc Brake setup, complete, everything is there.

My personal favorite:
A ORIGINAL Olds 8-track demo tape... (Oooooo, Ahhhhhh)

Much, much, more... send me some e-mail if anyone has an interest. He is 
located in Mt. Pleasant, Michigan (close to the "middle of the mitten" 
for you Michiganders).


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 08:09:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Shift kits

>Anyways, everyone I've talked to says that shift kits are good for the tranny.

Yep, they are right.

>The theory is that a quicker shift gives the tranny less time to slip.

Yep, right again.

>While it's slipping parts are wearing away.

Yep, yep, yep...

>The problem is that not everyone wants neck-snapping shifts, 
>so they didn't make them that way from the factory.

Well, the factory doesn't "make" anything, it just assembles a bunch of 
parts. The Engineers did fiddle with valve bodies, spring rates, band 
material and everything else in order to meet the specifications for the 
car. "Neck-snapping" shifts is much more acceptable in a W-30 than say a 
Toronado, speed is critical to both cars but marketing defines that one 
is more, dare I say, "civilized" than the other, maybe a more PC term 
would be "more appropriate". I have been installing B&M TransPak's in 
TH-350's and TH-400's since 1978. I think they have a good product and it 
isn't too difficult to install. The key, in my opinion, to long lasting 
longevity to a automatic transmission is "DO NOT MANUALLY SHIFT GEARS". 
Most people tend to forget the automatic in automatic transmission for 
some reason. If you must shift gears, the fix is simple, get a "MANUAL 
transmission.

Happy Oldsmobiling,
Mike Hall


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 08:09:47 -0300
Subject: Re: GM - Oldsmobile Home Page

Greg Beaulieu writes:

>Seriously, has anyone here found that software to work ok?

Sorry to hear of the trouble, works just fine here, Shockwave installed 
just fine.

>Did you have to do anything trick to set it up?

Ummm, no....

>I'd love to see the Olds site in all it's glory...

The Shockwave plugin for Netscape is different, the pics are a little 
small for my tastes. It was cool for the first 15 seconds but the novelty 
soon wore thin. The graphics intensity on the Olds site is huge, I can 
feel my hair turning grey just waiting for the pics to come up, at 28.8 
no less!!!


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 09:47:19 -0300
Subject: RE: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA)

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB6D73.3DF42E20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Your cable could be frayed. 

- ----------
From: 	Lloyd Culp[SMTP:bculp@hiwaay.net]
Sent: 	Monday, July 08, 1996 6:09 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA)

At 04:53 PM 8/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>       The gas pedal on 89, Cutlass Ciera feels heavy any suggestion ?
>> Was used to driving 93 Corolla. Specially in city driving with speed
>> range of 40 - 60 pedal doesn't work smooth. Needs extra force to push
>> the padel( ther is resistence).
>> 
>>       Any helpful hints are appriciated.
>
>buy heavier shoes..  most people who switch from imports to GM have
>to do this,,   GM Goodwrench sells a stylish pair in 8-13mens, Thom
>McHann sells the same pair for $30 less. either that or go to a junkyard
>and find a corolla gas pedal and epoxy it to the top of your Oldsmobile
>gas pedal.   
>
>
>Doug Ahern      

>Doug:

He sure is lucky to have you around.  There is no need for further help
after your advice.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
>





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------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 13:02:33 -0300
Subject: Re: GM - Oldsmobile Home Page

Mike Hall wrote:
> 
> The graphics intensity on the Olds site is huge, I can feel my hair 
> turning grey just waiting for the pics to come up, at 28.8 no less!!!

Exactly my earlier point.  When will the HTML/Java bozos get it through 
their thick heads that all the overblown sound/graphics overhead simply 
slows it to the point where much of their intended audience simply 
clicks-off out of download boredom?

And they can stuff the frames too!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 12:46:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Cars and Parts for sale in NY/NE area (not mine!)

Robert J. Barry forwarded from the Bargain News:
>
> 76 TORONADO, runs good, needs minor body work, p/everything, 455 
> engine, FWD, 2 dr coupe ...

Oh, the rare TWO-DOOR Toronado!  And with the optional FRONT-WHEEL drive!
Wow!  Somebody better jump on this one.  Wonder if it has the manual 
transmission and that 3 barrel carb?      ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 12:40:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Toro governor gear- Good source found

Robert J. Barry wrote:
> 
> but they *do* have a plastic gear service piece, for all of $5.00!  :)

Cool!  Glad you found your part, Bob.  I think I'll order one at that 
price just to have a spare.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Michael Blennerhassett <blenner@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 10:20:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Toro governor gear- Good source found

On Tue, 9 Jul 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:

> Robert J. Barry wrote:
> > but they *do* have a plastic gear service piece, for all of $5.00!  :)

> Cool!  Glad you found your part, Bob.  I think I'll order one at that 
> price just to have a spare.
> The 66 Toro and Mike
> 

me, too.  When I first found the old '66 Toro, and kicked 
the chickens out of the back seat, 'cos it was sort of sitting in a farm 
yard in, well, improvable condition, first gear was an option that was 
rarely available; nothing else wrong.  Seems the governor gear was 
messed up.  Confoosed the 
trans shop, they gave up, fixed it myself by chance more than good planning.
 
So thanks for the info!

Michael (the '57 one).> 

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 10:22:34 -0300
Subject: 69 W-32 and U-joints

Well Mr. Witt, it took me a while but here is the info (slight) from that BOP
magazine that had the article on a 69 442 W-32:

"For the person who wants something in-between the W-31 and W-30"
Only available on the 442 series
Was a slightly detuned W-30
Used the W-30 4-sp engine hooked to the TH400
350 hp compared to 360 for the W-30
Only 247 W-32 made in 69
W-32 stickers where the usual W-30 , 31 appear

Sorry, but thats about the extent of the info!


On another note. What is the best way to check U-joints? Car on jack stands?
Standard transmission in 1st? How much play in the driveshaft is normal? If
I get any play at all does that mean that something (Tranny,u-joint,rear-end)
is messed up? Please advise.


 				Pat Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			  clark@abu.dseg.ti.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 10:30:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts...

Mike,                                                                           
 Mt. pleasant, Michigan, home of my old Navy buddy, Jack Sisson.  I was at his 
home once on my way to Middletown, Ohio.                                        
 How much is the demo tape?                                                     
 Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 09:28:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts... 

> How much is the demo tape?

Something you might consider (and I'm throwing this out to the general
population 'cause I don't know the finer points of _how_ to do it)
would be to convert the promo tape to a .WAV file or other audio format
that could be downloaded from Bryce's web page. It's not that long of a
tape, is it?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 09:23:59 -0300
Subject: Re: NAOC Nationals 

>>Anyone going to the NAOC Nationals in Wheeling, WV this coming
>>weekend?
>>
>I was wondering what NAOC stood for, I can't remember.

Need Another Olds Cutlass, of course. Jeez, do I have to explain 
_everything_ around here?  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Milone, Louis" <LMILONE@sunriver.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 13:36:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help...

I bolted a 4.56 posi from a 65 chevy right into my 71 Cutlass S.  (took it 
out two weeks later, definelty not for the highway) but it fit.

lou
83 H/O
 ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner
To: oldsmobile
Subject: Re: Need help...
Date: Monday, July 08, 1996 9:38PM

At 06:06 PM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I have two questions:
>
>Q1:
>Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?  A few months ago, I found a

No, completely different design (just like their 350's and 400's are
completely different).

>Pontiac 455 with TH400 tranny for $600 (and the *ugly* car even came
>with it!).  The engine ran decent, but would need rebuilt.  Even still, I
>thought that was an excellent deal... but I passed it up, because I 
couldn't
>find anyone that was smart enough to answer this question.  Two
>different mechanics said, "yeah".  Then when I asked, "are you sure?",
>one said, "uh well", and the other one said, "sure I'm sure!", but he 
didn't
>look confident in himself.  Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400
>was different than the Olds, and wouldn't bolt up anyway.

Actually, the Pontiac and Olds TH400's *are* identical (man, that guy isn't
right about anything!). The B-O-P (Buick-Olds-Pontiac, and also Cadillac)
bellhousing patterns are identical, and differ only from Chevy within the GM
transmission line.

>Q2:
>What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
>bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
>got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
>looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the 
line.

Any '68-'72 A-body (Chevelle, Malibu, Cutlass, 442, Vista Cruiser, Tempest,
LeMans, GTO, Grand Prix (after '69), Monte Carlo, El Camino, Skylark, GS)
are all direct bolt-ins, except perhaps for the u-joints. I believe
positraction was an option on all these lines for all these years. The
earlier '64-'67 rear axles will also bolt-in, I believe, but are narrower;
fine if you want to fit more tire and modify the wheelwell.

>Thanks for the help...
>
>-BS
>
>

 -----------
 - Bob Barry
 - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
 - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 13:50:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Toro governor gear- Good source found

Michael Blennerhassett wrote:
> 
> Michael (the '57 one)

This is starting to sound like one of those sci-fi movies where everyone 
is a clone with the same name and a number attached to identify them.  
What are the Greg(g)s gonna do?

The 66 Toro and Mike-49  (or should that be Funk-49, James Gang fans?)


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 13:59:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts...

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> ...convert the promo tape to a .WAV file or other audio format that 
> could be downloaded from Bryce's web page.

You should be able to do it with any half-assed sound card.  My 
SoundBlaster Pro will allow me to suck stuff in.  You should be able to 
plug a tape deck up to the audio in and record with whatever WAV or DAT 
type software you've got.  Plenty of freeware converters to change it to 
VOC files or whatever.  Prolly should use 8-bit sampling at 11KHz rather 
than 16-bit at 22 or 40-something to keep the file size down.

It isn't an 8-track is it?   :o

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 11:39:23 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: NAOC Nationals 

>Anyone going to the NAOC Nationals in Wheeling, WV this coming weekend? 
>
>Paul
>
I was wondering what NAOC stood for, I can't remember.  
          
          
          National Antique Oldsmobile Club?
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30  (and no, I don't consider them antiques!)

------------------------------

From: "Andrew A. Senko" <senko@reston.ans.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 11:14:32 -0300
Subject: radiator replacement

Well, I read the long instructions given by Joe Padavano about fitting a
4-row radiator into a space that previously held a 3-row unit, and I must
say that I didn't understand exactly what you were talking about, Joe.  So
I did what anyone would do in this situation, I printed the message.  Then
I went home, pulled the old radiator and tried to make the new one fit
again.  Nothing had changed, and the new one still didn't fit.
Close examination had shown why it wouldn't fit.  Hmmm... maybe it's time
to re-read that message.  Lo and behold!  It made perfect sense this time!
Joe's instructions were right on the money.

Today I plan to take both radiators to the shop where I bought the new one
and I hope to leave with either:

1) A new 4-row radiator that DOES NOT have a drain valve on the bottom side.
   Then I can modify the metal brackets as Joe described and make it fit.

OR

2) A new 3-row radiator that will drop into place without modification.

Thanks to Joe for the detailed instructions, and thanks to everyone else
that responded.
                                                                 _
                                                                 |\
Drew Senko                   Convertibles         .__====-_._____|_\______
senko@reston.ans.net             Rule!            [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.gnn.com/senko                      =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
'71 Cutlass Supreme convertible ______________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #226
********************************

