
oldsmobile-digest           Sunday, 14 July 1996        Volume 01 : Number 237


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com" <wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com> 
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 15:12:02 -0300
Subject: Goodbye (again) 

Hello folks, it is with great regret that I must leave your fine
company/companionship as I am preparing to change jobs and will 
be losing my email account soon.  I will miss you all, and hope 
I have an opportunity to get hooked back up with you in the future.

Thanks again to Greg, for providing such a great service and 
bringing us all together.  Thanks to Chris, David and all the other
folks that have put so much energy into this organization.  It's
truly amazing how far we've come in so little of time.  There's so
much technical information and experience flowing here, too bad we
can't capture every little bit of it and put it on a CD ROM (Hey,
there's a new idea!).

Till we meet again, may your Rocket flames never go out!

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/ 

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 14:50:43 -0300
Subject: Re: brakes, misc. stuff

At 11:22 PM 7/12/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Dave,
>
>You may be right about the air. After further thought I guess it does sound
>more like a bad booster but, I wouldn't bet the ranch just yet. It could be
>some crap in the line(s), a stuck or dirty proportioning valve, or any other
>wierd possibility or combination of things. Including poor vacuum supply for
>wahtever reason.
>
>Sparky
>
Proportioning valve is what I'll check next, I guess.  The booster was good
when I put it on; I checked it to make sure.  Vacuum supply is good, too.
The only thing I haven't replaced are the front wheel cylinders,
proportioning valve, and brake lines.  Can a proportioning valve be bought
new, or do I have to get a used one?

Thanks for the help!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 15:02:31 -0300
Subject: Re: blower fan

At 11:05 AM 7/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>The blower fan on my '72 cutlass wagon has stopped functioning.  I have 
>checked the fuses and they were all good.  Can anybody point me in a direction
>on where I can find the blower motor and trace the wires to see if there
>is a break in the circuit?  Or how to fix the old blower?
>
Roger:

I had a problem with my blower motor for a while; it didn't work at all.  I
discovered it was just a loose connection at the A/C controls inside the
car.  You might want to check that (and the other things mentioned!) before
you try replacing the motor.  It's a real pain in the *ss!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <dink@infinet.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 17:49:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Goodbye (again) 

> There's so
> much technical information and experience flowing here, too bad we
> can't capture every little bit of it and put it on a CD ROM (Hey,
> there's a new idea!).
> Wes Fujii

Well I just bought a cd-burner, and would be happy to put all the 
posts on a cd, if somebody has them saved.  Good idea!

Dink
____________________________________________
Dink     Brunswick, Ohio
80 Olds Delta 88 Royale MSD, K&N, Dynomax, Etc
95 Formula 6M, 1SC, T's, Hurst, !Cags
Dink@infinet.com   http://www.infinet.com/~dink
- --------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 18:25:01 -0300
Subject: Re: blower fan

Greg,
I was just kidding.  I've been looking for a good wagon for years. I want a 70 
because I'm going to make a "one off" out of it.  I have 70 ram air hoods and a 
complete 70 w30 to make a 70 w30 flat top wagon.(before everybody tells me, I 
know about the factory wagon).

I have one spotted in Ft. Worth that has been sitting for years, but haven't got 
the owner to commit to selling it to me.  Might have to put a contract out on 
him to get his attention.  You'd be surprised how cooperative a person gets if 
his knees are going to get nailed to the floor.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 23:03:43 -0300
Subject: Re: blower fan

Roger M. Borlase wrote:

> inoperable blower motor

Thought I would suggest checking the blower motor resistors -- a set of resistive coils used
to controll fan speed.  In later years, found on top of blower motor housing; earlier, I don't
know.  Had this problem once on my '84.  Terminals on the resistors were very corroded & one 
coil broken.  A new set of resistors (~$12.00) solved the problem.
Good luck!
- -- 

Bruce D. Brumm (bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com)
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI
'91 Thunderbird Sport 5.0 HO
'84 Cutlass Supreme 307-Y
'86 Cutlass Salon 307-Y

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 23:05:58 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body gauges...

OLDSPWR@aol.com wrote:
> 
> If anybody has received my spec's on installing factory gauges in a 78-87
> Cutlass, please drop me a line to let me know it you got them and what you
> think.  If I forgot anybody (by accident), PLEASE let me kno and I will send
> it right out.
> 
> BTW, if anybody else is interested in the above mentioned spec's, I have a
> few left stamped and sealed, so send me your regular address and I'll send
> you a copy...

I requested, but did not receive these specs.
My address is as follows:

  Bruce D. Brumm
  3280 Bloomfield Ln. #708
  Auburn Hills, MI  48326

In advance, thanks!
- -- 
Bruce D. Brumm (bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com)
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI

'84 Cutlass Supreme 307-Y
'86 Cutlass Salon 307-Y

------------------------------

From: Ken <rottin@en.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 19:38:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds @ Norwalk

RbtNeumann@aol.com wrote:

> in.  It sounds like Sunday is the day to go...things start around 8 and
> finish up around 5.  I'll be there Sunday in my 72 dark blue Delta 88
> Convt...I'm even considering racing it...I've never dragged before, but I
> think it would be fun and you can't beat the price.  I'd like to see what
> she'll do...and see just how big that margin for improvement is...I'm sure
> I'll be among the slowest there, but who cares?  Well, that's about all I
> know...if anyone out there is gonna show, let me know and I'll keep an eye
> out for ya.
> 
> -Aaron

 I'm gonna go sunday.  A 1967 Aqua w/Blk top 442 convertible is gonna 
get me there.. It's gotta temp tag!  Dunno if I'm gonna race.. With no 
radiator overflow bottle, no seatbelts, no battery hold down they may 
not let me. Lame swap meet eh? Guess I aint gonna find a 66' trips 
manifold.. <sigh>

Ken 
Cleveland, Ohio
67' 442 Convert.

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 23:37:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds @ Norwalk Again

> just look for a fat blonde hair guy.


Hey! I resemble that remark...


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 11:41:20 -0300
Subject: Re: I forget

Chris Witt writes:
>VERY funny, Joe! If you would care to look at *the* technical reference 
>manual,
>Mr. Mondello's, in the cam bank angle chart, you'll see that he lists the
>  "425, except Toronado" engine for *1965*.


I got a laugh from page 50 just above the "Carburetion" section. The last 
sentence reads, "These points are good to 7000 plus/minus rpm without 
floating."

A Olds engine at negative 7000 rpm would be fun to see... ;-)


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 19:45:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Goodbye (again) 

wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com wrote:
> 
> Hello folks, it is with great regret that I must leave your fine
> company/companionship as I am preparing to change jobs and will
> be losing my email account soon.  
> 
> Till we meet again, may your Rocket flames never go out!
> 
> Wes Fujii
> ________________________________________________________________
>       ___   ___ ___
>      /  /  /  //  /
>     /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
>    /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
>   /  /  /  //  /_______
>  /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
>           /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
>          /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
>         /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
>        /__/   \_______/

Sorry to hear it.  We hope that you can come back at the new job.  Good 
luck (NICE LOGO).
- -- 
SLTG

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 00:52:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Alum. intakes and steel intake gaskets 

At 12:07 PM 7/13/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>Any experience on what works here and what doesn't? If I use the stock-type
>>steel unit, which sealer works best? I've heard RTV around the water
>>passages, and the spray-type copper gasket stuff for the intake passages.
>>
>>Bob, I have used a stock steel intake gasket on my torquer intake for six
>>years before I to replace it.  The failure was it rusted out at the water
>>passages.
>
>Tim McChesney
>71 convetible
>74 supreme

Tim, thanks for the reply. Do you recall what kind of sealer you used?

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 00:52:05 -0300
Subject: Re: More on my 403...(etc...) 

At 12:56 AM 7/13/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Haven't been to active on the list lately, but I have been reading my mail.
> I have been working my tail off trying to get my 403 back together.  Here is
>some info that might be of interest to you....

Hey, want to enter the Summer Olympics as the "Synchronized 403 Rebuild" team?

[snip]
>So I went overboard, and wound up spending big bucks.... (but well worth it)
>As for the cam, I am using a JM 20-22 with a Cloyes true roller timing chain.
>When I went to degree, it was 2 deg advanced. (Actually 2 deg on the intake
>and 1 deg on the exhaust according to the Engle cam card).  Not too bad for
>lining up the marks on the chain, but I was prepared an had the offset
>bushing kit.  

I didn't have the bushing kit, but luckily the roller timing chain I had
lying around had +4 and -4 degree notches on the gear. Straight up, the cam
was retarded by 6 degrees; changing to the +4 degree notch brought cam
timing to 2 degrees advanced (I guess their 4 degrees is actually 8 degrees
advance) too.

>Since I changed the cam, now I had to use the 350 7a heads I aquired
>recently.  So I put the 2" intakes in it and kept the 1.625 exh.  It works
>out pretty well because the 4A heads are 2.00" int and 1.50" exh while the 7a
>heads are 1.875" int and 1.625" exh.  So you also get a bigger exh valve.  I
>used the intake valves from my 4A heads with a 45 deg seat and the exhaust
>valves from a set of J heads with a 30 deg seat.  I did some very mild port

I used the 2.00" valves from a 455 E head, and the stock exhausts. I left
the 2.00" in the stock heads, if I ever have to lower the compression ratio
or burn up the current valves (always good to have a backup).

>work on the intakes to blend the bigger valves in and took out the sharp
>edges in the exaust ports.  Since I am lucky enough to work with a
>professional engine builder, he let me work on the heads at his home shop and
>use his flow bench.  The bigger intake valves helped alot at low lift and
>balanced out at high lift (.600). (I just changed the valve size and not the
>actual shape of the port).  As for the exhaust, I picked up 10 or so cfm just
>by removing the sharp edges.  

I didn't flow mine; just removed the AIR bumps, removed sharp edges, blended
the bowl into the seat, teardropped the guide bosses and polished the chambers.

>And since I used bigger valves, it is hard to get the correct geometry of the
>valve train back, so I bought a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers (from
>Summit).  They came with no instructions, so I called them and they were
>useless!  So much for $217 rockers...
>So I went with Mondellos instructions and milled the pads .110" (the
>thickness of the guideplates)  I drilled the holes out to 3/8 " for the studs
>and tapped them with 7/16" x 14 (for BBC studs from ARP)  I also reduced the
>height of the valve guides to .7" for the cam lift (over .500").   I then
>turned down the OD of the valve guides to .530 for the teflon oil seals.
> BTW, the seals from Mondello were very poor quality, and I wasn't happy with
>then at all.  So much for $20.  

I'm glad you did that experimentation for me. I considered all that, but I'm
going with a torque-cam (.440" intake/.472" exhaust) since this is going in
an Electra coupe. I stuck with the stock seals and rockers, and I guess I'm
glad I did. I will be going with the rollers, though, for my 455, so I'm
glad to hear your warnings.

>As for mounting the heads on the 403, I drilled out the mounting holes to
>27/64" as spec'd by Joe in his book.  One of the outer holes punched into the
>return oil hole.  (I did this on a milling machine for accuracy).  Not a big
>deal, but it should be noted.  One of the dowel pins had to be enlarged to to
>5/16".  (One was 5/16" the other was smaller...). After this work, they fit
>with no problem.

I didn't have any problem with punching through on my 7a's. Those dowel-pin
holes screwed up my machinist too; he checked the 5/16" one and figured the
heads were all set. Didn't even occur that there would be different size
dowel pins on the same head. What was Olds thinking? Did they get a bargain
on dowel pins if they bought both sizes?

>After I got the heads on the engine, I had to check the length of the pushrod
>to get the correct roller rocker geometry.  It is VERY hard to get the right
>geometry as spec'd by Joe in his tech book.  I'm not to happy with this
>all... but it works.  

Not too hard with the stock-type setup; I just need the right length
pushrods, and some shims.

>I just started the engine yesterday and it seems to run fine with the
>exception of a stuck closed thermostat (which I fixed tonight...)   More to
>follow on how it runs...

I'd like to hear how people here start up their rebuilt engine for the first
time; any tricks/tips/warnings/ceremonies that you have had success with?

>So time for some observations...
>
>Both Mondello and Dick Miller are hard to work with.   Sometimes they are OK,
>but usually difficult (nothing new...)

It often comes through that they are trying to sell you something, so I come
here with my questions.

>As for Joe's tech book:  I like the book, but were the hell does it reference
>7a (small cap  A) heads???  It seems to me like WE talk about those quite a
>bit and Joe himself filled me in about the induction hardened seats.  So were
>is the small cap A in his chart????
>So much for 5 years and 5000 man hours of work Joe...

Well, he mentions the 7A 307 head... No hint, however, on the hottest SB
head setup.

Maybe JM doesn't know everything about Olds motors after all

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 00:51:58 -0300
Subject: Re: I forget 

At 10:41 AM 7/13/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Chris Witt writes:
>>VERY funny, Joe! If you would care to look at *the* technical reference 
>>manual,
>>Mr. Mondello's, in the cam bank angle chart, you'll see that he lists the
>>  "425, except Toronado" engine for *1965*.
>
>I got a laugh from page 50 just above the "Carburetion" section. The last 
>sentence reads, "These points are good to 7000 plus/minus rpm without 
>floating."
>
>A Olds engine at negative 7000 rpm would be fun to see... ;-)

My favorite is the one Joe chose to lead off his book with, on p.2. It is in
the form of a letter which "Dr. Olds" has apparently edited for clarity:
- -----
Question: "Dear Dr. Olds, I have a 455 Oldsmobile engine with 11:1 TRW
pistons, "C" casting heads and Fel-Pro Permatorque head gaskets. Dr., is
this possible?"

Joe: "No, it's not possible. This is so far from being accurate that it's
really not funny."
- -----

The above interchange is so far from being good writing or editing that it's
really not comprehensible. Apparently, the crucial sentence went something
like "Will this combination of parts yield a true 11:1 compression ratio?"
Taken literally, Joe is saying that the person asking a question assembled
an impossible combination of parts.

So, the key to understanding the Mondello Tech Manual is to learn to
appreciate the "figurative sense" of his writing. Jeez, who'd a figgered a
grease-monkey would need a background in post-modern literary criticism to
assemble a 403...

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 03:42:40 -0300
Subject: HELP!_Parts_swap_for_65_98 

> Second, I would install new bushings. Something like polyurethane or
> DelAlum (from Global West). Anybody used poly. bushings?? I hear they
> squeak (unless you use some special grease with a graphite suspension).
> Poly. bushings are MUCH cheaper than the DelAlum, and I am not going to
> race this beast, so I would prefer the poly.

Poly does squeak but PST at 800-247-2288 sells PolyGraphite, which as you 
can tell from the name has graphite embedded in the polyurethane. There may 
be others with a similar formula but PST boasts it is exclusive. 

I can say this based on my experience and that of some others who have dealt 
with PST (Bob Barry was writing about their 403 overhaul kit a while back): 

 - their kits are complete and of excellent quality at very reasonable 
   (almost cheap) prices. 
 - No squeaks yet in my 67 Cutlass ragtop (at least from the suspension, 
   though cowl shake seems to be more pronounced). 
 - Global West's poly is colored and squeaks. 
 - PST Bushings are black (graphite?) so if you are into showing the car 
   you lose no points because they look OEM (it would take a fanatical judge 
   to twig that they are different. The only deficiency on a show car is the 
   sway bar bushings are decidedly non-factory looking, but ADDCO sells poly
   sway bar bushings for around $20 which do look similar to factory. 

Good luck

Dal

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 10:39:11 -0300
Subject: Re: blower fan

At 11:03 PM 7/13/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Thought I would suggest checking the blower motor resistors -- a set of
resistive coils used
>to controll fan speed.  In later years, found on top of blower motor
housing; earlier, I don't
>know.  
>Bruce D. Brumm (bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com)

On my 69 the resistors are located to the right (passenger) side of the
protrusion in the firewall where the refrigerant lines enter the inside of
the car.  It is held in with two hex head screws; it's got four wires
connected to it.  One is a single black wire (ground??) connected by a spade
lug.  The other three are in a keyed black connector, one green, two black. 

Hope you can decipher that!!  
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: 455@clbs.k12.mn.us (Timothy P. Urban)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 11:42:29 -0300
Subject: A sideways story... 

I've got short story to tell you, and maybe a quick tip to save you all
with 4 speed Muncies a little headache on the road...

I own a 71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with 455 and a Muncie 4 speed. I had
brought my 3 year old son, Jake with me to work in Cass Lake, MN for the
day.  On the way home I took kind of a back way home and lo and behold,
realized I had forgot to drop something off in downtown Cass Lake several
miles down the road.  I slowed to a stop on the road, and pulled pointed
towards the ditch so I could back up and turn back to town.

I came to a quick stop and, not wanting to be perpendicular to the traffic
for very long, quickly slapped the tranny into reverse and eased my foot
off of the clutch.

The car dies.

I quickly start the car, still in reverse, and ease my foot off the clutch.

The car dies again.

Still sideways in the the road.  I am starting to panic a little.

I then push the clutch pedal in to put the car in neutral, and the shift
lever won't budge.  SO I start it up again, and think hey, I'll add a
little juice and kind of drop the clutch and maybe that'll work.  Car just
dies right off, nice clutch smell coming from under car. Heart rate
becoming a little quick.

We exit car and start to wave down a passerby, who happens to be an EMT and
radios for a wrecker.  Me, starting to think about big bills for repairs.

I start to wave traffic by while holding my three year old from running
around and getting squished by traffic squeezing by on the shoulder.  We
flail away at the 1000 or so deer flies that suddenly found us, Jake
beginning to wonder why we decided.  The wrecker gets there, piloted by an
older gentleman in a tank top and beer belly, and he finally gets her
hooked up, and mentions something about being stuck in two gears.

I have him crank it up in the air and slip underneath and, lo, car is in
one forward and one reverse gear! I pull both rods back to neutral, hop in
to see what's up, and in few minutes I am on my way home!

Anybody else get stuck in such a stupid place?  Anyways, though you might
want to note the symptoms of the problem, just in case you panic too and
don't think about the obvious...

Timothy P. Urban
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

455@clbs.k12.mn.us
http://www.clbs.k12.mn.us/urban/urban.html

is jake watching?

------------------------------

From: Mark Samaniego <marks@IntNet.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 17:23:35 -0300
Subject: Temp sensor

I am still unable to locate a single-wire Temp sending unit on my '86 
Olds 307 motor. Does ANYONE know the location of this sending unit? The 
one I am looking for is a single-wire idiot light sender. Is there one 
on this motor? I have looked for almost hours for another 
single-wire sender and cannot find one. The only ones I have found:

Single-wire sender, looks like the oil pressure, suspicions confirmed 
by list member. It is located in the block, directly behind the water 
pump. 

Two (2) two-wire sensors, I am under the impression that these are 
computer sensors, and shouldn't be disturbed. They are located about 1" 
behind the oil sending unit, in the very ffront of the intake manifold.


PLEASE HELP!  (Argh!)

Mark S.

(If anyone is interested, Sunpro gauges has a web site. 
http://www.actron.com )
- -- 
           >> marks@intnet.net <<
** Lost In Cyberspace, Wallowing In Technology **

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #237
********************************

