
oldsmobile-digest           Friday, 14 June 1996        Volume 01 : Number 203


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: J.Easton@zds.com (Jeff Easton)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:57:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Hoods

>From: Bneuw30@aol.com
>Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:55:48 -0300
>Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods 

>The whole hood was fiberglass.  I have one from my original 1970 W-30 which
>was wrecked.  They are available on the aftermarket, but they don't have the
>metal screening built into the bottom of the hood scoops.   Several of the
>Olds-only companies sell the reproductions.

  The original OEM hoods from olds were fiberglass, glued to a steel subframe.
The repo that Year One sells is all fiberglass.  Using it will probably require 
softer springs.

  From personal experience, most Olds hoods have cracks in the glass near or in 
the "webs" on the leading edge of the intake scoops.  Also check for cracks or
damage in the glass on the front nose and the rear edge tips, usually put there 
by the guy stacking hoods against his fence. :-)  Check the metal inside the 
nose where the front extension bolts on to make sure the steel hasnt bent away 
from the fiberglass, thus the extension wont bolt on straight.  Make sure the 
screen is still there, to filter out the occasional small bird you may ingest..
They were originally tack welded on.

  All these things can be fixed, it just takes more money... or time if you 
already know how to do fiberglass.

  According to my body guy, the repo hood would cost a lot more to paint, since 
the glass is wavey and would require 5 or more passes of block sanding by hand 
to get it smooth, thus lots of labor.  My car is black thus this type of thing 
shows up pretty bad on my car.


- -Jeff Easton

1970 442 4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Rie von Eyben <Dbird@sloc.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 15:24:12 -0300
Subject: Date:	Thu, 13 Jun 1996 15:24:12 -0300

Dear Oldsmobiler.

Can you please supply me with some tecnical data on a ' 80 350 v8 =
oldsmobile engine?. I recnently boufgt a Caddi with such an engine =
installed, and would like to know how powerful it is!

Thanky you

Anders Madsen

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 14:53:33 -0300
Subject: Hello...? Anybody in? 

This has got to be the slowest day I've seen in a long time. Is it
due to nice weather, or just a lot of people signed off for summer
vacation?

>7 year independent AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer
>10 year B.F.Goodrich T/A Certified Tire Specialist
>1977 Oldsmobile SKO Cutlass owner
                 ^^^
Can anyone enlighten me about what an SKO Cutlass is?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:24:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Hello...? Anybody in?

> 
> This has got to be the slowest day I've seen in a long time. Is it
> due to nice weather, or just a lot of people signed off for summer
> vacation?
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
> Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473


	Well, I am here. Just don't have too much to say! Hang in there A.G.,
5:00 will get here soon enough.


 				Pat Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			      clark@abu.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.

------------------------------

From: WKELLY@TrentU.ca
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:26:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Hoods

My Dad recently restored a 1947 Olds.  He is interested in the
history of his car, as well as corresponding with other owners of
same (or similar) makes.  

					Doting daughter,
					Wendy

P.S.  We have already been advised to join the Oldsmobile Club and
I will pass that info on to him.
P.S.S. He has recently injured himself, so I'm trying to
download anything related at all so he'll have something to read to
help pass the time.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------

Wendy Kelly
WKELLY@TRENTU.CA

- --------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:38:18 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198 

In a message dated 96-06-13 04:20:56 EDT, you write:

> I have to smile when I see these other oil companies *just introducing*
>their "New" and "Revolutionary" synthetic oils.  Sure, synthetic oils were
>"New" and "Revolutionary" ...*over 20 years ago* when AMSOIL introduced them
>to the motoring public! :-)

Actually synthetic are a bunch older than that.  The Germans in WWII made
them out of necessity because the Allies blocked access to crude oil.
 Wouldn't be surprised if synthetic oils and lubricants are even much older
than that.

Anybody know?

Bob Handren  OCA  #7728

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:38:41 -0300
Subject: Re: More on rear ends (no pun intended) 

In a message dated 96-06-13 05:04:41 EDT, you write:

>Forgot to mention the rear gears also depends on if you have the close 
>ratio or wide ratio transmission.  I assume that you have the wide ratio 
>which only came with a max of 3.42.  The Close ratio started at 3.42 and 
>went up to the mentioned 4.66.  I looked it up and the 4.66 were dealer 
>installed, but I think I still remember something higher than that.
>
>-Dan
>
>
>

If it's a Type "O" you could get 5.00 gears too! 

If you can't find the necessary parts I hate to say it but the easiest thing
to do is get hold of a Ch*vy 12-bolt and stick that in.  Easy parts
availablilty, bigger ring and pinion, etc.  '69 +/- Olds manufctured in
Canada actually come with "C" rears.  I don't believe any 12 bolt "C" rears
were installed but Olds' did come with "C" rears for a year or two.

In fact, I'm still looking for a pinion yoke from a Canadian built Olds
Cutlass with such a rear.  Anybody see one please let me know.  They used the
larger Olds u-joint and will fit the 12-bolt as well.  I know because years
ago I took a chance and actually did it.

Bob Handren

Bob Handren

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:38:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods 

In a message dated 96-06-13 12:03:44 EDT, you write:

>The whole hood was fiberglass.  I have one from my original 1970 W-30 which
>was wrecked.  They are available on the aftermarket, but they don't have the
>metal screening built into the bottom of the hood scoops.   Several of the
>Olds-only companies sell the reproductions.
>
>

I've certainly seen repro W-30 hoods with screening.  There is more than one
company reproing them -  and no, I don't them.  If they don't specifically
advertise that eht correct screen and steel mounts are included, don't buy
it.

Bob Handren

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:38:39 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

In a message dated 96-06-12 18:31:25 EDT, you write:

>I'm still not convinced of the infamous "epoxy" fix yet. I hear some are
>having some success with tapping and inserting a threaded allen screw with a
>rubber washer. However, the casting there is quite thin and usually crappy
>(as pot metal usually is at birth).
>
>

Well, glad you tempered your opinion some. :-)

The early epoxy fixes didn't work.  Gasoline is darn near the ultimate
solvent.  It eventually ate it's way between the epoxy and bowl.  Move 25
years later:  My neighbor across the street has a '66 Goat with a '67 400.
 His wasn't proven to be a leaker but when he rebuilt he used some "stuff" he
got at the parts store.  It was a two parter and almost certainly epoxy of
some type.  It turned Navy grey when mixed and seemed quite different from
the stuff I used years ago.

He's on his 2 week Navy Reserve stint this and next week.  If you are
interested I can follow up on 1) how it is working and 2) what the heck it
is.

Anybody out there just let me know if interested. Chemistry of that kind of
material has made af few advances over the last 20+ years.

Bob Handren  OCA #7728
'67 W-30 Modified
'70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

------------------------------

From: Paul Bartlett <bartletp@osshe.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:51:40 -0300
Subject: Toronado Electric Windows Update

Thanks for all your advice regarding the difficulties I am having with the
electric windows and seats in the 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado.  I hope to
work on it this weekend and send a progress report next week.

I read one e-mail suggesting that I disconnect the battery when working
around the instrument panel.  I forgot to do that.  After reading the
e-mail, I got very concerned, went home during lunch, and disconnected the
negative cable from the battery.  The car is still fine with no fried wires.

IS IT REALLY TRUE THAT BOTH THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS AND ELECTRIC SEAT ON A
1966 OLDSMOBILE TORONADO SHOULD ONLY WORK IF THE IGNITION IS ON.  COULD
OTHER PERSONS PLEASE CONFIRM THIS. 

I am still learning about relays.  There are three terminals on the relay.
 The first is the fat supply wire that comes from the circuit breaker on
the fender well by the battery.  The second is another fat wire that goes
from the relay to the power accessory.  From the e-mails, the key appears
to be the "pilot (small-gauge) wires" that are used to activate the relay. 
Both pilot wires are pink.  One appears to come from the "electric window"
terminal in the fuse box, the other appears to come from the power seat switch.

The points on the relay appear to be normally open.  The points close when
the pilot wire is grounded.  But when I turn on the ignition or move the
power seat switch, it seems to send current down the pilot wires to the
relay.  MY QUESTION -- WHAT SHOULD CAUSE THE RELAY TO ACTIVATE (to close
its points) -- GROUNDING THE PILOT WIRE OR SENDING CURRENT DOWN THE PILOT
WIRE.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Paul Bartlett, 
E-mail bartletp@osshe.edu

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:56:38 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in?

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB5940.E89E7B60
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have nothing exciting going on, I'm just waiting to get my car out of the paint shop tomorrow night... (yawwwwnnn)

- ----------
From: 	Pat Clark 952-3776[SMTP:clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com]
Sent: 	Thursday, June 13, 1996 3:24 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Hello...? Anybody in?

> 
> This has got to be the slowest day I've seen in a long time. Is it
> due to nice weather, or just a lot of people signed off for summer
> vacation?
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
> Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473


	Well, I am here. Just don't have too much to say! Hang in there A.G.,
5:00 will get here soon enough.


 				Pat Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			      clark@abu.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.




- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB5940.E89E7B60
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB5940.E89E7B60--

------------------------------

From: Dave Voorhis <dave@armchair.mb.ca>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:07:15 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

At 04:38 PM 13/06/96 -0300, you wrote:

>[...] His wasn't proven to be a leaker but when he rebuilt he used some
"stuff" he
>got at the parts store.  It was a two parter and almost certainly epoxy of
>some type.  It turned Navy grey when mixed and seemed quite different from
>the stuff I used years ago.

Sounds like JB-Weld.

Dave Voorhis, '66 and '67 Toros
dave@armchair.mb.ca
http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:17:03 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

In a message dated 96-06-13 16:09:16 EDT, you write:

<< >[...] His wasn't proven to be a leaker but when he rebuilt he used some
 "stuff" he
 >got at the parts store.  It was a two parter and almost certainly epoxy of
 >some type.  It turned Navy grey when mixed and seemed quite different from
 >the stuff I used years ago.
 
 Sounds like JB-Weld.
 
 Dave Voorhis, '66 and '67 Toros
 dave@armchair.mb.ca
 http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave >>


Dave, any experience with this stuff when used on fuel components?

Bob H.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:20:52 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in? 

>Well, I am here. Just don't have too much to say! Hang in there A.G.,
>5:00 will get here soon enough.

The key is for 5:00 to arrive before any annoying customers call up.

> 				Pat Clark
>
>     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.

This has something to do with Toronado electrical systems, I assume?  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:38:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Windows Update 

>IS IT REALLY TRUE THAT BOTH THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS AND ELECTRIC SEAT ON A
>1966 OLDSMOBILE TORONADO SHOULD ONLY WORK IF THE IGNITION IS ON.  COULD
>OTHER PERSONS PLEASE CONFIRM THIS. 

Actually I think _you_ did; see below:

>I am still learning about relays.  There are three terminals on the relay.
> The first is the fat supply wire that comes from the circuit breaker on
>the fender well by the battery.  The second is another fat wire that goes
>from the relay to the power accessory.  From the e-mails, the key appears
>to be the "pilot (small-gauge) wires" that are used to activate the relay. 
>Both pilot wires are pink.
                      ^^^^
Pink = Power only when ignition is on

>One appears to come from the "electric window"
>terminal in the fuse box, the other appears to come from the power seat 
>switch.

At first I thought it was just a matter of perspective; I interpreted this
to mean that power was supplied from the fusebox to both this relay and the
power seat switch. Both pink wires attach to the same terminal, right? (You
did say that there were three terminals on the relay, and the other two are
taken up by the fat wires.)

But in reading on, I changed my mind:

>The points on the relay appear to be normally open.  The points close when
>the pilot wire is grounded.

Okay, fine...

>But when I turn on the ignition or move the
>power seat switch, it seems to send current down the pilot wires to the
>relay.

Seems like you have two sources, all right. You could confirm this by
disconnecting the pilot at the fusebox, then moving the seat switch to
see if the relay still activates. If it does, then the seat switch is
indeed feeding power to the relay, just like the fusebox would if the
ignition was on. It would do this in order to turn on the main supply
to its motor(s) after you've moved the seat switch in one of its many
possible directions. If the seat switch had another (battery) source,
this would enable it to move the seat even with the ignition off.

That being the case, it would be interesting to see if you could unplug
the fusebox wire as before, then see if the windows will work _while_
_the_power_seat_is_in_motion. This would tell you that the relay feeds
power to both accessories, and that the seat switch has its own pilot
power supply.

>MY QUESTION -- WHAT SHOULD CAUSE THE RELAY TO ACTIVATE (to close
>its points) -- GROUNDING THE PILOT WIRE OR SENDING CURRENT DOWN THE PILOT
>WIRE.

Sending current down the pilot wire should activate the relay to close its
points. Grounding the pilot wire would short circuit it. This relay most 
likely grounds its pilot wire through the casing (i.e. current goes in the
pilot terminal and through the coil windings, grounding to the case). See 
if there is continuity from the pilot wire terminal to the exterior case of 
the relay. Probably there is.

>Thanks again for your help.
> 
>Paul Bartlett, 
 
Good luck, Sparky! (...or is that Sparky #2 now? :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:54:03 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in?

k
> >
> >     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.
> 
> This has something to do with Toronado electrical systems, I assume?  :-)
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431

Don't know. Ain't never had one o' them fiancy tor-nay-does before! 
(but it sure sounds like the word to describe them would be "Lucas") ;-)


 				Pat Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			      clark@abu.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey King <jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:17:17 -0300
Subject: Synthetic Oils

> I have to smile when I see these other oil companies *just introducing*
> their "New" and "Revolutionary" synthetic oils.  Sure, synthetic oils were
> "New" and "Revolutionary" ...*over 20 years ago* when AMSOIL introduced
> them to the motoring public! :-)

For what it's worth, I first started using Mobil 1 back in 1975, shortly
after it's introduction (that's been over 20 years) in my first brand
new car.. a 1975 Ch*vy Laguna Type S-3.  Had it rolling around in the 
trunk for 3 weeks before I had the guts to put it in, but once I did, I
was sold.  I've used it ever since.

By the way, why did I receive both of Steve's responses as individual 
messages when I'm subscribed in DIGEST form???  If I didn't know any
different, I'd say it smacked of an unsolisited e-mail advertisement!

Jeff
- -- 
================================================================
Jeffrey W. King(N5PNU) Internet: -----> jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
Route 1, Box 290       Internet/packet:   n5pnu@dfwgate.ampr.org
Krum, TX. 76249        Packet:    N5PNU @ N5AUX.#DFW.TX.USA.NOAM
214-956-6031 (work)    214-597-1021 (pager)
817-482-3446 (home)    If none of the above works:    HEY YOU!!!
================================================================
           http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
================================================================

------------------------------

From: Michael Blennerhassett <blenner@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:24:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Windows Update

Mine work with the key on only. Always have, always will.. I hope.
Michael+Toro/66

------------------------------

From: Lucas Frick <frick@macrochip.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:21:57 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in?

What is this? 
(but it sure sounds like the word to describe them would be "Lucas") ;-)
 
Luke

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:13:38 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

I got a Haynes manual on Rochester carbs, it seems really good so far and I've 
learned a lot.  They mention the leaking problem and recommend the epoxy fix, 
specifically JB Weld.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    6/13/96 1:14 PM


     The early epoxy fixes didn't work.  Gasoline is darn near the ultimate 
     solvent.  It eventually ate it's way between the epoxy and bowl.  Move 
     25 years later:

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:52:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Hello...? Anybody in? 

In a message dated 96-06-13 17:33:23 EDT, Joanne writes:

>Lucas

As in "Lucas Flame Throwers?"  I think that was made in reference to
me....another name for Sparky!  (:  Nice one Joanne! I was beginning to run
out of names for myself!

May be slow on the board, but they are dropping like flies here at
work.....pant, pant...

Gotta run,

The Original......"Sparky"

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:51:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Electric Windows Update 

In a message dated 96-06-13 17:33:23 EDT, Mike F writes:

>Mine work with the key on only. Always have, always will.. I hope.
>Michael+Toro/66

Let me take that back. The only car I had where the seat worked with the key
off was the 68 Toro, however, it did NOT have power windows though! All the
other ones I had with seats AND windows would only work with key on. 

Sorry, if I confused you......must have been the amperage last Sunday!

Sparky

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:55:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in?

> What is this? 
> (but it sure sounds like the word to describe them would be "Lucas") ;-)
>  
> Luke

Lucas electronics, the "Prince of Darkness"
"If Lucas made guns, wars wouldn't start"

Lucas makes the electronics and wiring for British cars such as Triumph and MG.
Notorious for having problems.


 				Pat Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			      clark@abu.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:47:40 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in? 

>What is this? 
>
>>(but it sure sounds like the word to describe them would be "Lucas") ;-)
> 
>Luke

Relax, no flame there. Pat's referring to Lucas electrical systems, used
in most if not all British cars and named for Joseph Lucas, the British
electrical parts manufacturer. Lucas quality control could be politely
described as theoretical, and Joseph Lucas is known fondly as the "Prince
of Darkness" for, among other things, lighting systems which carefully
avoid the hazard of blinding oncoming motorists through the ingenious
concept of not generating any visible light from components normally 
thought to have been designed to do so.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 22:04:44 -0300
Subject: Re: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades

BobH592058@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Anybody out there just let me know if interested. Chemistry of that 
> kind of material has made af few advances over the last 20+ years.

Bob,

The material that I suggested that Greg K try is called Marine Tex.  It 
is a two-part mix and is available in either black or white.  You'll find 
it in most marine supply stores such as E&B Marine or U S Boats.

It's supposed to be OK to use in motors, the manufacturer claims you can 
even use it to patch cracked heads!  (Not that I've tried)  I have used 
it on my own boat for a variety of repairs and it is definitly MUCH 
harder than any epoxy I've run across.

Word of warning: Use sparingly, trying to sand it down is a good way to 
increase the value of sand-paper stock!


The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:13:43 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Hello...? Anybody in? 

     Totally off topic... but what the hey, it's been slow:
     
     Why do Brits drink their beer warm?
     
     Because Lucas also makes refrigerators!
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in?
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    6/13/96 3:13 PM


> What is this? 
> (but it sure sounds like the word to describe them would be "Lucas") ;-) 
>  
> Luke
     
Lucas electronics, the "Prince of Darkness" 
"If Lucas made guns, wars wouldn't start"
     
Lucas makes the electronics and wiring for British cars such as Triumph and MG. 
Notorious for having problems.
     

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:12:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods 

>Were the W-30 hoods made of fiberglass?
The '70-'72 O.A.I. (Outside Air Induction) factory hoods are called W-25
hoods and came on the W-30, W-31, Rallye 350 and as an option on 4-4-2's.
Mine came from the factory on my 4-4-2 and the build sheet shows a code W-25
ordered option.  These hoods are fiberglass and attached to a steel
subframe.  They weigh 18 pounds less than the all steel hoods.  The '71-'72
O.A.I. hood is different in the front than in '70 and will not fit properly
or visa versa.  The going price on these hoods in Hemmings Motor News is
about $1000-$1500 for ones that are in good shape.  Most every one of these
hoods have stress cracks in the leading edge area of the intake scoops.
This is usually caused by people lifting the hood from the front leading
edge were there is no steel subframe.  This causes the hood to twist
slightly and thus cracking.  The proper way to open the hood is to lift
further inside the hood were the steel subframe is.  All of the reproduction
ones are a solid piece of fiberglass and you can not use your stock hood
springs or you will break the hood.  I have even seen guys at car shows who
have an aftermarket hood and holding their hood up with a stick.

>How about the hood on a '69 Hurst/Olds?
In '69 a standard steel hood was used with a hole cut in it, and mailbox
type scoops were mounted on top.

>Do you guys know if an aftermarket replacement hood or the scoops
themselves >are available?
Year One sells an all fiberglass hood for $449.00. 
 
>the scoops themselves are available? 
The '69 H/O Hood scoops are also available for $119.00.

Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:53:29 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

Nielsen Design Group wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> Turns out my '68 442 restoproject came with no rear gears in place;
>  Seems the 442s and Cutlasses from '68 - '70
> used an exclusive 12 bolt cover/10 bolt gear "O axle" rear end.
> 
> . Comments?
> What does everyone think of such a practice?
> 
> 
> opinions out there? This is a factory 4 speed Muncie car.
> 
> > 
> > -Darren Shroeger
>  '68 442

Darren:

My 1968 442 4-Speed has 3.90 gears and they are a pain.  The car is 
never raced and hums like crazy on the highway.  It is a 12 bolt O type. 
 I understand that a different rear end came on the 1971-1972 cars and 
is as good as is the old type.  My 1970 Buick 455 GS is going from the 
older type to the newer 1971 version from a Stage-1 car (3.42's instead 
of the current 2.76).  I understand that it is a bolt in.

I would love to have 3.23 or 3.31 for my Olds and will find some soon 
and save those crazy 3.90's.  I understand that many automatic 442's Had 
3.07'S with higher ones available of which 3.23's were common also.

I wouldn't do anything with those big Olds gears except try to trade for 
the proper ones out of a Cutlass or try for the Buick/Pontiac/Chevy 
substitutes.  Rear end work is a big dollar effort.  Complete correct 
rear ends are the cheapest, most satisfying way out.  It is a bolt in if 
you use the proper set.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:32:44 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

> is as good as is the old type.  My 1970 Buick 455 GS is going from the 
> older type to the newer 1971 version from a Stage-1 car (3.42's instead 
> of the current 2.76).  I understand that it is a bolt in.

     That's the nice thing about most rears; if they're from the same 
chassis, they will bolt in place with at most a u-joint change.

     I yanked the 10-bolt Olds 2.56 rear out of my '71 and swapped in a 
2.78 posi 12-bolt Olds rear.  Worked fine.
   
> I would love to have 3.23 or 3.31 for my Olds and will find some soon 
  
     I've been told that some of the 71-72 A-bodies used a 8.5" GM (Chevy)
rear.  Rare, but these would be the best find since there's TONS of them 
out there for parts, ect.   Around when I swapped my rear I pulled a 8.2" 
Chevy 3.36 open rear out of a '71 ElCamino figuring that since it's a 
Chevy there's got to be a pile of posi guts for them.  NOT SO!  The $50 
Olds rear was the best deal, just needing new axle bearings.   Heck, 
Chev's usually trash the axle when the bearings wear out.  ;^)

> I wouldn't do anything with those big Olds gears except try to trade for 
> the proper ones out of a Cutlass

     If I had one with proper gears I'd keep it.  The main weak spot are 
the axle bearings.    The plus side to a 8.2" or 8.5" Chevy rear is that 
if you break something you can get it.   FYI, the 12 bolt Olds carrier 
and gears look substantially stronger than a 10-bolt Chevy.   Anyone know 
the availability of 12-bolt Olds gears?

     My stock of rear end "tradeable" parts:

	12-bolt 3-series Chevy posi carrier
	10-bolt 3.36 open Chevy rear 
	1 set of 10-bolt Olds ('71) axles with NEW axle bearings - never used.
     	12-bolt Olds 2.78 Posi rear - new axle bearings

     Things I'd trade for:

	12-bolt Chevy housing (68-72 A-body)
	10 bolt 8.2" Chevy 3.08-and-up posi carrier
	
                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:52:08 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

> My 1968 442 4-Speed has 3.90 gears and they are a pain.  The car is
> never raced and hums like crazy on the highway.  

Bill,

     Do you think the gears are too steep, or do you just not like the noise.  
My 68 442 4-speed car (just to let you know we are somewhat on the same 
playing field) is an a/c car so it has the highest gears available 3.23 
(non-posi).  Is yours posi?  The funny thing is I'd like to replace my 3.23 
with 3.90s.  The car does not launch very well with 3.23 gears (lacks the feel 
of a muscle car).  Granted the gas mileage is better and it cruises nice on 
the highway.  However, I don't drive the car very often and it is just for 
cruising around and having fun.  I'd really like to drive your car (or 
anybody's for that matter!) with 3.90s and see the difference.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Mark Wolfe <markw@wwa.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:41:52 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

Lloyd Culp wrote:
> 
> Nielsen Design Group wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > Turns out my '68 442 restoproject came with no rear gears in place;
> >  Seems the 442s and Cutlasses from '68 - '70
> > used an exclusive 12 bolt cover/10 bolt gear "O axle" rear end.
> >
> > . Comments?
> > What does everyone think of such a practice?
> >
> >
> > opinions out there? This is a factory 4 speed Muncie car.
> >
> > >
> > > -Darren Shroeger
> >  '68 442
> 
> Darren:
> 
> My 1968 442 4-Speed has 3.90 gears and they are a pain.  The car is
> never raced and hums like crazy on the highway.  It is a 12 bolt O type.
>  I understand that a different rear end came on the 1971-1972 cars and
> is as good as is the old type.  My 1970 Buick 455 GS is going from the
> older type to the newer 1971 version from a Stage-1 car (3.42's instead
> of the current 2.76).  I understand that it is a bolt in.
> 
> I would love to have 3.23 or 3.31 for my Olds and will find some soon
> and save those crazy 3.90's.  I understand that many automatic 442's Had
> 3.07'S with higher ones available of which 3.23's were common also.
> 
> I wouldn't do anything with those big Olds gears except try to trade for
> the proper ones out of a Cutlass or try for the Buick/Pontiac/Chevy
> substitutes.  Rear end work is a big dollar effort.  Complete correct
> rear ends are the cheapest, most satisfying way out.  It is a bolt in if
> you use the proper set.
> 
> Bill Culp


Just for the record, 3.55's were too short for me, I was running out of 
engine at about the 900 ft mark, and was praying it stayed togather at 
6000 rpm (455 on the bottle), I broke that rear end (8.2 inch poncho), 
and am back to the stock gears which are 2.7 something's.   I'm looking 
at a set of 3.23's or there about.   And I'm not going with the Type-O, 
but brand F, as it's cheaper to find parts for.
Cul,
Mark Wolfe

------------------------------

From: Mark Wolfe <markw@wwa.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:49:01 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

Bob Valentine wrote:
> 
> > is as good as is the old type.  My 1970 Buick 455 GS is going from the
> > older type to the newer 1971 version from a Stage-1 car (3.42's instead
> > of the current 2.76).  I understand that it is a bolt in.
> 
>      That's the nice thing about most rears; if they're from the same
> chassis, they will bolt in place with at most a u-joint change.
> 
>      I yanked the 10-bolt Olds 2.56 rear out of my '71 and swapped in a
> 2.78 posi 12-bolt Olds rear.  Worked fine.
> 
> > I would love to have 3.23 or 3.31 for my Olds and will find some soon
> 
>      I've been told that some of the 71-72 A-bodies used a 8.5" GM (Chevy)
> rear.  Rare, but these would be the best find since there's TONS of them
> out there for parts, ect.   Around when I swapped my rear I pulled a 8.2"
> Chevy 3.36 open rear out of a '71 ElCamino figuring that since it's a
> Chevy there's got to be a pile of posi guts for them.  NOT SO!  The $50
> Olds rear was the best deal, just needing new axle bearings.   Heck,
> Chev's usually trash the axle when the bearings wear out.  ;^)
> 
> > I wouldn't do anything with those big Olds gears except try to trade for
> > the proper ones out of a Cutlass
> 
>      If I had one with proper gears I'd keep it.  The main weak spot are
> the axle bearings.    The plus side to a 8.2" or 8.5" Chevy rear is that
> if you break something you can get it.   FYI, the 12 bolt Olds carrier
> and gears look substantially stronger than a 10-bolt Chevy.   Anyone know
> the availability of 12-bolt Olds gears?
> 
>      My stock of rear end "tradeable" parts:
> 
>         12-bolt 3-series Chevy posi carrier
>         10-bolt 3.36 open Chevy rear
>         1 set of 10-bolt Olds ('71) axles with NEW axle bearings - never used.
>         12-bolt Olds 2.78 Posi rear - new axle bearings
> 
>      Things I'd trade for:
> 
>         12-bolt Chevy housing (68-72 A-body)
>         10 bolt 8.2" Chevy 3.08-and-up posi carrier
> 
>                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--
>                     --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
>         "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"


You sure the 8.2 wasn't a poncho?    Easy to tell by the bolt in axles 
(which are interchangable with the type 'O'), and the cover has indents 
where the axle tubes are.
Cul,
Mark

------------------------------

From: Mark Wolfe <markw@wwa.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:51:09 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

Dan Williams wrote:
> 
> > My 1968 442 4-Speed has 3.90 gears and they are a pain.  The car is
> > never raced and hums like crazy on the highway.
> 
> Bill,
> 
>      Do you think the gears are too steep, or do you just not like the noise.
> My 68 442 4-speed car (just to let you know we are somewhat on the same
> playing field) is an a/c car so it has the highest gears available 3.23
> (non-posi).  Is yours posi?  The funny thing is I'd like to replace my 3.23
> with 3.90s.  The car does not launch very well with 3.23 gears (lacks the feel
> of a muscle car).  Granted the gas mileage is better and it cruises nice on
> the highway.  However, I don't drive the car very often and it is just for
> cruising around and having fun.  I'd really like to drive your car (or
> anybody's for that matter!) with 3.90s and see the difference.
> 
> -Dan


Gears sound fine, probably a lack of torque under the hood.  :)   Also 
the first gear ratio in some of the 4 speeds don't do you any good.   
Cul,
Mark Wolfe

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 01:01:05 -0300
Subject: RE: Hello...? Anybody in? 

At 18.55 06,13,96 -0300, you wrote:
>> What is this? 
>> (but it sure sounds like the word to describe them would be "Lucas") ;-)
>>  
>> Luke
>
>Lucas electronics, the "Prince of Darkness"
>"If Lucas made guns, wars wouldn't start"
>
>Lucas makes the electronics and wiring for British cars such as Triumph and MG.
>Notorious for having problems.
>
usually the only times they worked was during the day and in good
weather...BAD, BAD design for such a damp country like England :)
                    zack

>
> 				Pat Clark
>    				 69 442
>    			        400/TH400
>    			      clark@abu.com
>
>     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.
>
>
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 01:06:26 -0300
Subject: probly 

ok, this porbably wont be too popular with the "purists"out there, but i
must ask it...i have recently come into ownership of a 69 El Camino...is
there a way to put a Cutlass front end on, as this was the same platform as
the Chevelle?  dont worry it will probably get the 442 treatment and have
Full olds markings on it...
                         Zack
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:07:21 -0300
Subject: Re: T-Top & Engine blews, err blues,

Bill Gochenour wrote:
> 
>  Currently, the
> > front peg locks in place, and the rear one just kinda hangs out where ever
> > it feels the most comfortable.  Usually ~not~ where it's supposed to be!
> >      Any clues/suggestions?  Does GM carry the gears?  
> >
> >       Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
> >      
> >              Got the same problem on my 83 Hurst/Olds with the passenger side, the
> damm car only has 9000 org. miles on it. The entire internal gear mech is
>  available from the dealer about $50 bucks for mine. The only thing
> stoppping me is the fact that its going to happen again !. Monte's/Grand
> Prix/Regal/Cutlass all use the same mechs.
> 
> Keep us posted !
> --
> Bill!                                      
>                                            
> I bought a 1987 Mustang GT with T-tops and they are working just fine 
even though my hot rod daughter has put 102,000 fast miles on the thing. 
 Maybe they are similar and have a part that is sturdier.  They have 
locks and latches on them.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eon.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 02:05:11 -0300
Subject: HELP!!

Hi Guys!  Youve been a great help diagnosing other problems Ive had.  
So, Im hoping you can help me with this one.

Its a starting problem.  Sometimes it starts.  Sometimes it doesnt.

Ive measured the voltage of the battery before starting and its 12.12 
volts.  Once it finally does start, the battery measures 13.68 volts.  
Does this mean the alternator is good?

When it doesnt start, all I get is a clicking sound?  However, if I turn 
on the headlights they are quite bright.  Does this mean the solenoid is 
good?

Its weird, the car can sit for a week and start, no problem.  But after 
driving around for an hour I can turn it off and immediately afterward 
attempt to startit again and..... it wont start.  The car does turn over 
for a few seconds but not enough for it to catch and actually start.  
Then, it's had it.

To get it to start, I have to attach a trickle battery charger to it for 
10-15 minutes then it usually starts.

This one is driving me crazy.  The car HAS to be dependable before I 
trust it driving anywhere.  The weather is great here and I'd really like 
to get out, drive around and be able to stop and feel confident I'll be 
able to get going again.

HELP!!!!  Thanks for your advice.


- ----------------------------------------------------------------
S.G. Hartfelder  Owner: '38 Oldsmobile Street Rod
18619-68 Ave      http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/hartfelder.html
Edmonton,  AB
CANADA

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:13:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods

Bneuw30@aol.com wrote:
> 
> The whole hood was fiberglass.  I have one from my original 1970 W-30 which
> was wrecked.  They are available on the aftermarket, but they don't have the
> metal screening built into the bottom of the hood scoops.   Several of the
> Olds-only companies sell the reproductions.

Don't these things have a metal frame on the bottom side of them as does 
the standard all metal ones?

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 01:42:37 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 rear end caper

On Fri, 14 Jun 1996, Mark Wolfe wrote:

> You sure the 8.2 wasn't a poncho?    Easy to tell by the bolt in axles 
> (which are interchangable with the type 'O'), and the cover has indents 

    Nope.  It's a C-clip rear.  I guess the only reason I'll consider a 
c-clip rear is because I've never had one let go on me.  8^)

- --> Bob

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:42:39 -0300
Subject: Re: probly

Buddha wrote:
> 
> ok, this porbably wont be too popular with the "purists"out there, but i
> must ask it...i have recently come into ownership of a 69 El Camino...is
> there a way to put a Cutlass front end on, as this was the same platform as
> the Chevelle?  dont worry it will probably get the 442 treatment and have
> Full olds markings on it...
>                          Zack
>       ___
>      /. .\
>     _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
>    / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
>    \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
>   /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
>  *************

Wow, that sounds neat!  I don't know if it will work but it sure sounds 
feasable.  Are you thinking of trying the Cutlass interior too?  What 
about the Olds station wagon tail lights?  Could trumpet exhausts be 
adapted?

That's an even better idea than a 442 station wagon.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 07:43:47 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198

I heard a nasty rumor that synthetic oils contain a material that 
corrodes bearing metal..any truth to this?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 07:56:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods

Dick Miller Racing has the most complete line of Olds-specific fiberglass 
components that I've seen, though I haven't looked very hard.  He's got 
race-weight fiberglass hoods, fenders, bumpers, doors, and even a 
one-piece front-end.  Seems he's got the most parts for A-body cutlasses 
but he also has a lot for G-body cutlasses and some X-body omega parts.
Trunklids, too.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Miles Lott <milos@insync.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 08:58:34 -0300
Subject: '72 350 Engine noise 

I recently purchased a '72 with about 130k miles on it.  The
oil pickup screen was clogged, so I replaced the pump and
screen I had ready just in case.  In the process, I damaged the
harmonic balancer, which has also been replaced.  I have
also replaced the water pump due to leakage.  The car does
not seem to burn oil or leak now, but I have since noticed a
"new" problem:

The engine seems rather unbalanced.  It shakes constantly.
When it warms up and after a couple of miles of driving, there
is a loud thunking sound coming from the block (I think).  I can't
localize the noise, as it seems to exist everywhere.  I am close
to resigning myself to a rebuild/swap of the block, but need to
be sure before I lay down the bucks.  Any clues?  It kinda sounds
like someone is tapping it with a 2 by 4.


Miles Lott (http://www.insync.net/~milos)
A.A.S. E.E.T./SBE BCST ENG

KTXH Ch. 20 in Houston, TX - home of the 
Rockets, Astros, Aeros, Terror

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:02:04 -0300
Subject: Q-Jet Testimony was: The Flaming Dubonette & Engine Gernades 

          I've got to agree with Bob on the Q-Jet.  In 22 years of 
          driving 442s, I've never had a problem with a _properly set 
          up_ Q-Jet.  Unfortunately, these carburetors require 
          knowledge and a careful touch to adjust properly, in 
          addition to suffering from difficult parts availability 
          (jets, rods, etc).  I must say that in all those years, I 
          have never suffered from the dreaded float bowl plug 
          leakage.  I have, however, found an excellent solution.  
          Jiffy (among others) sells machined aluminum plugs with 
          o-rings which replace the spun-in factory units.  Simply 
          file off the spun-in metal, drill a hole in the factory 
          plug, thread in a sheet metal screw, and extract the plug.  
          The replacement is simply pushed into place (lubricate the 
          o-ring first) and incorporates a boss which bears against 
          the throttle plate housing to retain the new plug.  I 
          installed these in my 70 W-30 when I thought the factory 
          plugs were leaking (that was not the problem...) and they 
          have worked fine for several years now.
          
          As to aftermarket carbs, I've used both Holley and Carter 
          AFB units.  The Holley is definitely a WOT carb only.  The 
          infamous flat spot can be tuned (as in change the RPM at 
          which it occurs) but not eliminated.  The Carter AFB is an 
          excellent carb also, which I have used on the street in both 
          single and dual quad applications.  The AFB is easily 
          tuneable with available Strip Kits (collections of jets, 
          metering rods, springs, etc).  The only drawback is that the 
          AFB is not a spreadbore design, and thus requires the fugly 
          adapter to install on a factory manifold.  Plus, I happen to 
          like the idea of a spreadbore...itsy bitsy primaries for 
          better fuel economy ("when driven the same...").
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:17:38 -0300
Subject: RE: '72 350 Engine noise

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB59C9.F3ECC6A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Timing chain?

- ----------
From: 	Miles Lott[SMTP:milos@insync.net]
Sent: 	Friday, June 14, 1996 7:58 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	'72 350 Engine noise

I recently purchased a '72 with about 130k miles on it.  The
oil pickup screen was clogged, so I replaced the pump and
screen I had ready just in case.  In the process, I damaged the
harmonic balancer, which has also been replaced.  I have
also replaced the water pump due to leakage.  The car does
not seem to burn oil or leak now, but I have since noticed a
"new" problem:

The engine seems rather unbalanced.  It shakes constantly.
When it warms up and after a couple of miles of driving, there
is a loud thunking sound coming from the block (I think).  I can't
localize the noise, as it seems to exist everywhere.  I am close
to resigning myself to a rebuild/swap of the block, but need to
be sure before I lay down the bucks.  Any clues?  It kinda sounds
like someone is tapping it with a 2 by 4.


Miles Lott (http://www.insync.net/~milos)
A.A.S. E.E.T./SBE BCST ENG

KTXH Ch. 20 in Houston, TX - home of the 
Rockets, Astros, Aeros, Terror






- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB59C9.F3ECC6A0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB59C9.F3ECC6A0--

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:33:49 -0300
Subject: Re: T-Top & Engine blews, err blues, 

> Got the same problem on my 83 Hurst/Olds with the passenger side, the
> damm car only has 9000 org. miles on it. The entire internal gear mech is
> available from the dealer about $50 bucks for mine. The only thing
> stoppping me is the fact that its going to happen again!.

Not necessarily. Mine were getting really hard to operate because the
stamped teeth gears would bind up on their center pivots and skew sideways.
I can see how the next step would be for the teeth to let go. I went in
there with a few drops of motor oil on all the moving parts and it was fine
after that. GM assembles them practically dry, which is not a great idea.

So I'd splurge on new assemblies while you can still get them, and just
lube them a little bit.

>Monte's/Grand Prix/Regal/Cutlass all use the same mechs.

Same T-tops, in fact...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 12:35:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiberglass hoods 

Bryceman, Dick Miller Racing has fiberglass W-30 hoods listed in his latest
newsletter. I called on a price for a 75 442 fiberglass hood and they wanted
$229. You can even get full fiberglass 70-72 front end pieces.

 Do you guys know if an aftermarket replacement hood or
>the scoops themselves are available? 
>
> EXCESSIVE IRON rules the road!
>'65 442
>'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
> bryceman@442.com
> www.442.com
>
>


Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio					z28cfi@gwis.com
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power			jlabay@phoenix.kent.edu
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:30:01 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Hello...? Anybody in? 

          
Lucas electronics, the "Prince of Darkness" 
"If Lucas made guns, wars wouldn't start"
          
Lucas makes the electronics and wiring for British cars such as Triumph and MG. 
Notorious for having problems.
          
          Q:    Why do the British drink warm beer?
          
          A:    They have Lucas refrigerators.

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:43:03 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: '68 442 rear end caper 

          
          
My 1968 442 4-Speed has 3.90 gears and they are a pain.... 
          
I would love to have 3.23 or 3.31 for my Olds...

        Bill,
        
        I have a 3:08 posi Type O rear end in my 70 W-30 (not the 
        original).  I will gladly trade for your 3:91s...I'll even 
        volunteer to pay shipping both ways.
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70W-30

------------------------------

From: AMSOILL@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:02:03 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #198 

In a message dated 96-06-14 06:49:49 EDT, suntzu@ohana.com (Paul R. K.
Kuromoto) writes:

>I heard a nasty rumor that synthetic oils contain a material that 
>corrodes bearing metal..any truth to this?

Hi Paul;
           As you have asked me this question, I'll be glad to answer it for
you.  Well rumors are usually just that; rumors.  No, there is no truth to
this at all.  High quality synthetic oils protect engines against wear much
better than petroleum oils do.  Film strength is how much lubrication you
have available between two pieces of metal.  The film strength of a petroleum
oil, any brand, typically hovers around 500 psi before all the oil is forced
out and you have metal-to-metal contact.  Whereas the film strength of a high
quality synthetic oil is about 3,000 psi.    Most people I know would prefer
the 3,000 psi film strength protecting their expensive engines.

    Synthetic oils have many, many advantages over petroleum oils and are
literally taking the place of petroleum oils.  New cars like the Corvette
come from the factory with synthetic oil already installed in the engine.  In
fact, if a petroleum oil were to be ever used in that engine, it would *void
the warranty*.  Ditto with the Chevrolet/GMC Cyclone/Typhoon P/U.  Yes, the
differences are indeed that great.  The petroleum oil could allow engine
damage to occur, that a synthetic oil would not allow to occur and that is
why the warranty would be voided if a petroleum oil were used in that engine.

   Also, all Porches now come from the factory with synthetic oil in the
engines, as do all Dodge Vipers, Aston Martins, Alfa Romeo's, the Dodge
Shelby Chargers all had synthetic oil in the engines right from the factory,
as do other cars.  Millions and millions of vehicles have been O.E. equipped
with synthetic oil because of a synthetic oils many advantages over a
petroleum oil.

  An interesting tidbit of information I will leave you with as long as you
bring up the question of what is in an oil or not, and this is not commonly
known publicly, but when you crack open your favorite bottle of petroleum
oil, it *already has* contaminats in it that you are pouring into your
expensive engine.  Yes that's right.  Petroleum oils are refined from crude
oil from the ground and all have all manner of naturally occurring
contaminants in the crude oil.  Most of these contaminants are refined out,
but not all.  Your "clean, fresh" unopened bottle of petroleum oil,
(regardless of brand), has a very nasty list of contaminants already present
in it; like parafin, (wax), napthenes and benzynes, asphalt and a host of
other undesirables.  When these contaminats found in a petroleum oil are
exposed to combustion blowby gases, they create other nasty acids and
compounds that don't do a whole lot of good for your expensive engine.  This
is one of the main reasons that petroleum oils need to be changed so often.

    Whereas with a synthetic oil, (a 100% synthetic oil anyway), again,
regardless of brand, synthetics are manufactured molecule by molecule in a
*clean laboratory*.  This means that a synthetic oil is analyticallly clean
and *devoid* of all the naturally occurring contaminants that are found in a
petroleum oil.

  This is in and by itself gives many very desirable benefits to a synthetic
oil.  Firstly, and obviously, if you are not pouring contaminants into your
engine, something that is not even present, is not going to do any harm.
 Also, when a petroleum oil is formulated, the chemist needs to chemically
address the problems and shortcomings of the naturally occurring contaminants
that are found in a petroleum oil.  The chemist does this with the selection
of the additive package that is put in with the oil.  The additive package,
in and by itself, does not provide lubrication.  The more additives that are
needed, the less lubrication there is.  So with a synthetic oil, the chemist
does not have to include as many chemicals in the oils additive package and
this results in more lubrication available from a synthetic oil, and all the
benefits that are associated with more lubrication, i.e. lower engine
operating temperatures from reduced friction, less engine wear, more power,
better fuel economy, etc.

   Now, not all synthetic oils are formulated to take advantage of the
benefit I mentioned above.  Synthetic oils differ much more from brand to
brand than petroleum oils do.  A number of the companies who have just now in
the past 2 or 3 years begun marketing synthetic oils, use the very same
additive package that they do in their petroleum oils.  Virtually any
synthetic will outperform a petroleum oil, but not formulating an additive
package that can highlight all the advantages of a synthetic oil, is not
taking full advantage of the synthetic oil base formula.  This may not allow
the advantages of a synthetic oil over a petroleum oil to be fully realized.

    The difference between a synthetic oil and a petroleum oil is like night
and day.  It is like comparing a high-tech F-14 Tomcat to a WWI Sopworth
Camel.  Yes, they both fly, but the similarity ends there.

   Synthetic oils are the future and there will come a time not far down the
road that all new cars will be equipped with synthetic oils right from the
factory.  But fortuneatley for us Oldsmobile nuts, <g>, you don't have to
wait for the future because synthetic oils are here now.  Do your favorite
Olds a favor and try a synthetic oil out.  Your Olds will love 'ya for it!
:-)

                        I hope this has been of help and interest to all.


                                             Cheers,
                                                      Steve

                     7 year Independent AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer
                        10 year B.F.Goodrich T/A Certified Tire Specialist
                                 '77 Oldsmobile SKO Cutlass Owner
                                         

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:35:18 -0300
Subject: Re: probly 

I know of a guy that is in the process of doing this exact thing. His name
is Mark Hanley and can be rached at 613-384-4200


>Buddha wrote:
>> 
>> ok, this porbably wont be too popular with the "purists"out there, but i
>> must ask it...i have recently come into ownership of a 69 El Camino...is
>> there a way to put a Cutlass front end on, as this was the same platform as
>> the Chevelle?  dont worry it will probably get the 442 treatment and have
>> Full olds markings on it...
>>                          Zack
>>       ___
>>      /. .\
>>     _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
>>    / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
>>    \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
>>   /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
>>  *************
>
>Wow, that sounds neat!  I don't know if it will work but it sure sounds 
>feasable.  Are you thinking of trying the Cutlass interior too?  What 
>about the Olds station wagon tail lights?  Could trumpet exhausts be 
>adapted?
>
>That's an even better idea than a 442 station wagon.
>
>Bill Culp
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:35:22 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 350 Engine noise 

I'd say you not only damaged the balancer but the crank along with it. This
engine will most likely not live long the way it is.



>I recently purchased a '72 with about 130k miles on it.  The
>oil pickup screen was clogged, so I replaced the pump and
>screen I had ready just in case.  In the process, I damaged the
>harmonic balancer, which has also been replaced.  I have
>also replaced the water pump due to leakage.  The car does
>not seem to burn oil or leak now, but I have since noticed a
>"new" problem:
>
>The engine seems rather unbalanced.  It shakes constantly.
>When it warms up and after a couple of miles of driving, there
>is a loud thunking sound coming from the block (I think).  I can't
>localize the noise, as it seems to exist everywhere.  I am close
>to resigning myself to a rebuild/swap of the block, but need to
>be sure before I lay down the bucks.  Any clues?  It kinda sounds
>like someone is tapping it with a 2 by 4.
>
>
>Miles Lott (http://www.insync.net/~milos)
>A.A.S. E.E.T./SBE BCST ENG
>
>KTXH Ch. 20 in Houston, TX - home of the 
>Rockets, Astros, Aeros, Terror
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:42:25 -0300
Subject: Re: What is this thing? 

I believe that thing is an activated charcoal (carbon) vapor barrier that is
used to slow or prevent excessive fuel vapors from escaping your carb.  Since
the vapors are heavier than air, when your engine is off, the vapors fall to the
float bowl vapor return line, down through the EVAP purge valve, and into the
EVAP cannister.

Personally, I had one in my Trans Am, and I have also found one in a 1979 
Corvette dual scoop air cleaner assembly as well.  I ripped the bugger out
along with the stupid air baffle that is supposed to route your air evenly
around the air cleaner element.  The heat stove air door was removed from
the inside of
the snorkel, and the heat stove hole taped up.  The vacuum line to the
bellows to
open the air door now sports a small ball bearing inside it to block the
vacuum, 
and the 2 inch heat stove duct is still intact.  From the outside, my air
cleaner
assembly looks 100% stock, but the above modifications chopped a tenth or more
from my quarter mile times.  And, it was FREE!   

(BTW, I have another air cleaner assy. that I picked up at the bone yard for
twenty bucks that I can use if I want to go green.)

        --- Dan.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 12:51:42 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 350 Engine noise 

At 08:58 AM 6/14/96 -0300, you wrote:
>I recently purchased a '72 with about 130k miles on it.  The
>oil pickup screen was clogged, so I replaced the pump and
>screen I had ready just in case.  In the process, I damaged the
>harmonic balancer, which has also been replaced.

Uh, define "damaged", please... As someone else said, perhaps
the crankshaft was damaged, too? Related possibilities: Wrong
replacement balancer? Not secured properly on end of crankshaft?
Insufficient torque? (Those things have a _high_ torque spec.)

Possible rod knock from oil starvation during initial startup?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 14:01:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Synthetic oil eating main bearings !? 

>I heard a nasty rumor that synthetic oils contain a material that 
>corrodes bearing metal..any truth to this?
>
None whatsoever.  Twelve years of abuse and my engine still runs like new. I
looked specifically at the crank bearings at 65,000 miles, and saw no wear
at all except for one polish mark on the rear main bearing.  There is no
varnish anywhere except for the inside of the valve covers either.  I did,
however, have to replace the valve stem seals and the rear main seal in
1992.  I use a three month/six thousand mile oil change schedule and use AC
duragard filters at each change.  

111,000 miles and seven sets of tires later,
        --- Dan.
        [ '84 Trans Am w/Mobil 1 synthetic oil - ]
                21 MPG highway; Oil consumption: 1 quart per 9,000 miles
average.
                Best of 15.46 E/T @ 89.9 MPH.
                       

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 14:20:05 -0300
Subject: SKO

>
>                                                     Steve
>
>                    7 year Independent AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer
>                       10 year B.F.Goodrich T/A Certified Tire Specialist
>                                 '77 Oldsmobile SKO Cutlass Owner
 


I know that someone has asked before, but what is a 77 Olds "SKO" Cutlass?

Steve?


 				Pat Clark
    				 69 442
    			        400/TH400
    			      clark@abu.com

     The careful application of terror is also a form of communication.
                                        

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #203
********************************

