To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/23/96 05:56:00 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #277


oldsmobile-digest          Friday, 23 August 1996       Volume 01 : Number 277


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:31:38 -0300
Subject: RE: I need your help and support....

Well as far as I can tell if you pay someone for an engine rebuild that =
is what you should have. There should be no worn out items as a rebuild =
is a complete refurbishing  top to bottom.

- ----------
From: 	JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu[SMTP:JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu]
Sent: 	Thursday, August 22, 1996 4:24 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	I need your help and support....

i have a 48 oldsmobile, and i just had the engine rebuilt. parts were
$1000, from kanter auto... and labor was $1500 from a machine shop /=20
proto type builder for GM, briggs and stratton, and harley davison.

The engine was lubed and the oil pump was primed prior to starting....
but as soon as the engine was started, we heard a clicking that sounded =
like
valves.  I ask the machinest what it was.... he looked... and said the =
engine
(that put on appxoximate 30 miles on the engine) had wear of 60,000
in the valve guides.  Besides being my problem....
who do i go back on?  kanter, the machineist, and should i have to pay =
more to
get this fixed?

please....  any re: is helpful.  thanks.

- --joe ferrero (the resto tip guy)

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:48:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level

The H pipe does work towards lowering the sound, sometimes by qquite a 
bit.  But yes, the manifolds will DEFINITELY quiet your exhaust down.  
Headers cause a scavenging effect which drives out the exhaust pulses 
much faster and at higher velocity than with exhaust manifolds.  When you 
hit the scavenge RPM, the exhaust will get a "machine gun" tone and 
that's the loud crackle you get especially with glasspacks or 
flowmasters.  Manifolds tend to blur the shaprness of this tone because 
they do not scavenge exhaust gas as well. 

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Mike Coccagna <MikeC@oz.kis.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:47:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust shop recommendations

Todd, 

I checked with a friend of mine who has a '89 Mustang in the body of a
'81 Fairmont station wagon. When he installed the 5.0, he went to the
Meineke at 3825 Dupont Ave, in Kensington.  Paid $155 for everything- -
mufflers, pipes, etc.  That was 5 yrs ago and it's still there.  They
bent the pipes, etc....

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442


Todd Morris wrote:
> Listpeople in the Wash,DC metro area--can anybody recommend a good exhaust 
shop.  Show quality
> not needed, just a shop that does solid performance oriented work at 
reasonable price.
> thanks
> 
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:04:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear end Was: The Rockit's back  

3:23 is a good rearend ratio.  At about 80mph you will reach 2800rpm.
3:23 and 3:08 are good highway gears and is acceptable with A/C.
I know of some fellows that use 3:42 with A/C but I would not go any 
higher than that unless you buy underdrive pulleys.  Now this is for A/C
cars.  A non-A/C car 3:73 is a good gear to cruise and still cruise 80mph
with
no problems.  If someone says to use 3:55 gears, they are only chevy gears.



W MACHINES(MARK PRINCE)

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:11:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level 

I have 3 inch exhaust with 3 chamber flowmasters. The system is 
aluminized with H pipe from headers.  If I got two chambers the system
would be two loud due to the exhaust resonating.  go with 3 or 4 chambers.
My system was also done with Mandrel bends to prevent any downsizing 
in the bends such as with 2.5 exhaust with a machine bend, the bend 
diameter will go to 2.25 or even 2.00 and you lose profiency.  I paid 
$650.00 for the custom exhaust.  Another plus is that the place I had 
the exhaust done put flanges on the rear of the mufflers incase I have to 
pull a tailpipe out the way to do some work




W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: Cdrpaulson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:17:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Radiator Paint 

I feel compelled to echo Sparky's suggestion.
You see, the Eastwood Co. simply takes all the guesswork out of a great deal
of the restoration business.  What this does is eliminate the weeks of
research that would otherwise be necessary for a correct and long-lasting
paint job.  In fact, this is true for many of their products; however, many
of the paints are, of course available locally.  On the subject of radiator
paints, you can be sure that the Eastwood Co. is as good as one would want.  
Ultimately, my suggestion is to call Eastwood, order their catalog (or borrow
one), look at the caption and decide.  I have bought many products from
Eastwood and have never been dissatisfied.  In any case, I consider the
Eastwood catalog an essential piece of literature in muy garage's library.
 Their phone/address is:

To order - 1-800-345-1178
Fax       -  610-644-0560
Canada - 1-800-820-9042
Address - The Eastwood Company
                580 Lancaster Ave., Box 3014
                Malvern, PA    19355-0714

Also, I recall Craig (likes that crazy rock group KISS) wanted to know the
POR-15 stuff.  I will be using POR-15 on all outer surfaces of my frame rails
as a rust preventer.  This decision comes after much study.   You should also
purchase their rust remover/surface prep solution.  On the inside frame
rails, I will be using Eastwoods "Heavy Duty Anti-Rust"  which does not
require removal of all old paint.  POR 15 is at:

Restomotive Laboratories
P. O. Box 1235
Morristown, NJ  07962-1235
1-800-457-6715

P.S.  The people at the POR 15 toll free number were technically helpful.
 The people at the toll free number for Eastwood may refer you a a toll
number for technical help.

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 14:31:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Synthetic Trans Lubricants

>         On another list whicj I subscribe to, (DSM LIST) our cars, which
> are Talons,Laser,Eclipses, we have problems withthe trans not shifting
> smoothly enough, causes a big crunch from 1 to 2. Red Line and BG
> Syncroshift seems to be the most popular brands they swear by. I need to
> switch my trans fluid on my cars and I think I will use Red Line when
> the time comes. I think I have an URL for them, if I find it I will post
> it.

I have one of those cars, mentioned above and yes it does not shift very 
easily 
from 1st to 2nd.  I replaced the trans fluid and the car actually shifted 
worse.  
I talked to the dealer and they suggested the synthetic.  All I could find was 
the 
Mobile 1 brand (I really wanted the Red Line).  What a difference it made.  
I'll 
never use a non-synthetic again.  Also, it flows much better when it is cold 
out.  
Something to keep in mind if you ever drive in cold weather.

Also, I'd be interested in that URL.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 22:02:17 -0300
Subject: Re: 1980 442 W-30 research findings.....

Well at least I know more are out there. Yes the car came with the Rocket
350, 3A heads, standard. His 538 is for black painted cars. Mine is one of
348 white cars, for a total of 886. I got mine for $4,000 which I consider a
steal since it is basically was in show condition when I bought it, no rust
except for surface frame rust. Found out that my spoiler was a dealer
installed option, not factory.
>
>     Today here in Havre, I saw a 1980 442-W30.  Gold on Black, Gold rims,
>no spoiler, Saskatchewan plates.  Just saw it driving by.  I found it
>interesting, anyway.  Seeing the "W-30" on the front fenders got me a bit
>excited, tho'...
>
__________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 IROC Z/28...............salvage yard special
1980  4-4-2 W-30.............1 of  886       OCA#027572

1975 Hurst/Olds W-25...1 of 2535  H/OCA#0278A             
Just what the doctor ordered....those awesome W-Machines.

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 22:22:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Northern Ohio Olds Show 

In a message dated 96-08-22 09:05:33 EDT, you write:

<< I'd bring the 98. >>

OK.  Will do.  Would rather have the A/C anyway, I think.  I'll put the
Delcotron, voltage regulator and coil back in tomorrow nite so she's ready
for the weekend.  Looking forward to the "Biggest Dent" award.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 22:21:56 -0300
Subject: Re: A-body 2piece stereo mounting 

In a message dated 96-08-22 00:06:31 EDT, you write:

<< is there anything in the
 manual on that? >>

Fixing, no.  Installing, yes.  But as you know the '72s are drastically
different from your '69 - sorry, no can help here. :(

Paul

------------------------------

From: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 15:24:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

Rocketeer wrote:
> 
> The '67 425 in my '66 convert will be getting some upgrades this fall.
> 
> Has anyone out there used Modello's JM18-20 cam? If so, what did you
> think about it?
> 
> Has anyone used Comp Cams roller tip rockers, any comments on these?

I have a set of Comp Cams roller tip rockers on my 455 and they are 
working great!  Definately allows you to use a bigger cam and adjusting 
them is rather easy.  And speaking of Mondello's Cams, has anyone used 
the JM20-22 or JM22-25 with a 4-speed and 3.91 rearend?

Chris M.
'68 442
cya422erols.com

------------------------------

From: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 16:15:49 -0300
Subject: Re: WINTERIZING IN BUFFALO!

Cdrpaulson@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Steve - with lots of 442 stuff in boxes, some of which are useless parts to
> be sold to guys like ya'all...in Virginia - Paulson (just the right number of
> vowels)

Whst kind of stuff do you have in those boxes?

Chris M.
'68 442
cya442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 22:46:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level

Todd Morris wrote:
> 
> 
> So I just get off the phone with an exhaust shop (AA Speed Shop) recommended 
by kind folks
> on this list.  The guy sounded quite competent and quoted $450 for dual 2 
1/2", aluminized,
> 2 chamber flowmasters, and H pipe included, custom bent.  The general 
feeling of this list
> was that 2 chamber flowmasters are just too loud.  However, the shop guy 
said they're not
> loud at all if used with regular xmans (not headers) and an H pipe.  Does
> Xmans and an H pipe really make that much difference???   He even went so 
far as to say that
> 3 chambers with xmans and H pipe are TOO quiet.  I'm skeptical.....thoughts??
> 
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

I am one of the guys who told you about AA Speed and they recommended 2 
chamber also, but from what I've read and heard (mine are 3 chamber) I 
would'nt go with anything noisier than the 3-chamber!  Also, how much 
are they going to charge you for the mufflers? I got mine from Summit 
Racing and saved a bunch! I also have the H-pipe and it did help 
alittle.  Any other questions drop me a line a  cya442@erols.com.

Chris M.
'68 442

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 22:54:26 -0300
Subject: Re: North Texas Olds Show 8/31

Robert,
I'm going, but it's only about 30 miles for me. I'm part of the North Texas 
group. Will be looking for you.

Art Fuller
Chapter Rep.

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:17:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Condensors, Was: Thanks Folks 

>Hey, that reminds me of another wacky problem in the distributor that
>Dad's '78 Delta 88 came down with. Seems that the engine would miss
>at high speeds, and the problem turned out to be one of the wires inside
>the distributor that had to flex as the plate rotated, and which had
>broken inside its insulation. Looked fine, tested fine, until one bright
>mechanic (not me) thought to test its continuity while turning the
>plate-formerly-known-as-breaker by hand. Yup, when the wire moved, its
>continuity went down the tubes.

Another thought on ignition oddities:  if the wire from the coil into the
distributor has some insulation rubbed away or even one strand of wire is
poking out and grounding to the engine, the coil won't charge properly and
can cause a hard to diagnose condition.

>>> (1) Paraphrased from "Saturday Night Live", circa 1976. Trust me.

>God, and to think I remember 
>watching that live on TV, not just in reruns!

Likewise, but it doesn't seem all that long ago.

>Andrew C. Green 



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:17:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Thanks Folks 

>Okay, so to recap, you suspected a shorted coil, yet a replacement from
>the tractor ran just as bad when in the car, but either coil ran fine
>when installed in the tractor. Therefore the problem is not with the
>coil(s).

Yes.

> Assuming your points are properly gapped, I'd say your condenser
>is toast.

Yes.

> Its job is to prevent sparking/arcing at the points, yet yours
>are experiencing meltdown. Try another condenser (yes, even new ones off
>the shelf can be bad, especially if they've been sitting around a few
>years)

I've found this true, even of Blue Streak; usually quite reliable.

>Andrew C. Green



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:17:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Resto  Tips  ..... 

>here's a useful tip for the bare metal finishes.....

This and the questions about hood hinge finishes got me wondering: since
Navel Jelly(tm) is phosphoric acid, can it be used to provide the phosphated
coating mentioned in another post?  I've noticed that the iron parts I've
used NJ on look grayed, as mentioned as typical of phosphated coatings.

Anyone remember Parkerizing?


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: spud@kudonet.com (Spud)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:17:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Condensors, Was: Thanks Folks 

>Well, IMHO there's a little bit more to it than spark supression, Andy.

Except that's just about it.  It's only a snubber.
  
>DC voltage cannot be step up through a transformer alone (which is what 
>the coil is).

Not so.  The physics of a mutually coupled inductor pair does just this.
The charging cycle in the primary builds up the magnetic flux in the coil,
which is coupled to the secondary.  When the points open, the charging
circuit is opened, collapsing the magnetic field in the primary.  As the
primary field collapses, the secondary follows suit, discharging into the
spark plugs.

Part of the reason for a high voltage in the secondary is due, not just to
the greater number of turns in the secondary winding, but  in large part due
to self-inductance in the secondary: V=L(dI/dt) means that the current
through the inductor cannot change instantaneously, but the voltage can.  As
the rate of change of the current increases, as in discharging into a spark
gap, the voltage increases proportionally.

Most of the energy stored in the magnetic field of the secondary goes to the
spark plugs because in a step-up transformer, the impedance of the primary
looks large compared to the spark gap of the plugs (the impedance
transformation of a transformer is reciprocal to the voltage
transformation).  But, because of a phenomenon called back emf, the primary
has a higher than 12 V induced at its terminals.

Since the battery is not connected to the primary of the coil during
discharge, the voltage on the primary can increase uncontrollably, unless a
secondary means of limiting that voltage exists across the terminals of the
primary: the condensor (a capacitor).

For capacitors, it's the voltage that can't change instantaneously, though
the current through it can (I=C[dV/dt]).  So, the condensor moderates the
jump in voltage on the primary of the coil and shunts excess current to
ground, keeping the points from burning up as fast.

> The condensor, or capacitor, is charged by 12v then 
>discharged through the coil through the action of the points.  The pulse 
>generated by this charge/discharge cycle is what's stepped up from ~12v 
>to the 25-35,000v of the coil output.

Not so.  See the above.

>But I do agree with you diagnosis, doctor.   ;)

Me, too.

>-- 
>Michael R. Frederick



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: kdporter@midwest.net (kdporter)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:55:11 -0300
Subject: rallye 350 for sale

   
> 
> 
>
>one more time,i have a 70 rallye 350 for sale,the car has all the rallye
options,oai hood,still have the original air cleaner with the flapper
top,the car also has a dual gate shifter and console it has a rear
spoiler,raly-pac,4 spoke wheel,front&rear sway bars,the car has the int.
light package,this car also has a 71 455 with 70 E heads,and cast intake,the
engine has been renewed,new pistons,cam,etc. the car also has a turbo 400
trans it is new as well.i still have what is soppost to be the original
engine {cannot read the numbers on the block} it also has one number 6 head
& one number 7 head,i do have the original exhaust manifolds,intake & carb
for the small block.need to sale the car because i just dont have the time
or the money for it anymore it needs a good home and a good restoration.  
>      i will sale the car without moter or trans for $3000.00 
>  or with moter and trans for $3800.00 
>  if you are interested email me or call me at {618}987-2884 
>    i am located in Hurst Ill. about a hour south of Stlouis 
>  thank you
>

kenny-dena porter
kdporter@midwest.net
 
 

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:57:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 into a '64 F-85 

At 02:04 PM 8/22/96 -0400, you wrote:
>     Thanx go to all for your help!!
>     Now about that '74 455 whadya all think....

Eric,

Here's why you should pass on that '74 455:

1) The heads are too small for any real performance potential
2) The pistons are low-compression
3) The crankshaft is the weakest 455 one around (non-Nodular iron)
4) It probably has an EGR intake, and carb calibrated for such.

As someone else noted, if you were going to change the pistons, heads,
intake, cam, and crank, then sure, go with the '74; the block, rods and HEI
would be useable. If you get a running '68-'70 455, though, you could
install it as is and still have a performance motor.

Of course, the '74 455 will have more power than the original 330, but even
a SB Ch*vy could easily be built to outperform a smogger 455.

I'd only do it as an interim motor, and install it as is, while I looked for
something more suitable.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: kdporter@midwest.net (kdporter)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:56:48 -0300
Subject: rallye 350 for sale

one more time,i have a 70 rallye 350 for sale,the car has all the rallye
options,oai hood,still have the original air cleaner with the flapper
top,the car also has a dual gate shifter and console it has a rear
spoiler,raly-pac,4 spoke wheel,front&rear sway bars,the car has the int.
light package,this car also has a 71 455 with 70 E heads,and cast intake,the
engine has been renewed,new pistons,cam,etc. the car also has a turbo 400
trans it is new as well.i still have what is soppost to be the original
engine {cannot read the numbers on the block} it also has one number 6 head
& one number 7 head,i do have the original exhaust manifolds,intake & carb
for the small block.need to sale the car because i just dont have the time
or the money for it anymore it needs a good home and a good restoration.  
      i will sale the car without moter or trans for $3000.00 
  or with moter and trans for $3800.00 
  if you are interested email me or call me at {618}987-2884 
    i am located in Hurst Ill. about a hour south of Stlouis 
  thank you

kenny-dena porter
kdporter@midwest.net
 
 

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 04:42:28 -0300
Subject: Toro Pickup for Melling

I would like to know if anyone has found the Toronado pan 1" drop pickup 
for their Melling pump somewhere other than mondello.  Is the "FWD" 
listing in the Melling catalog the 1" drop pickup?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:38:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Advice.... 

     For the coverages you want, nearly any alarm will work.  Any electrical
system can be disabled by a competent installer.  You can have a starter
kill, ingnition kill, brake line lock, hell, whatever you desire.  There are
a few paging alarms around, too, but I have no recommendations.  My Autopage
alarm worked awesome for a couple years, then just died.  They don't make it
anymore.  I'm not impressed with their current lineup.  The last I've heard,
Code Alarms doesn't have much for paging options, either.  Frankly, I don't
care about Viper's offerings.  I think Alpine once had a fairly advanced
paging system, I'm not sure.  
     As far as the "original look" part, that all depends on the installer.
Code once had a tracking alarm, too.  If the alarm was set off, it would
dial a built in Mitsubishi/Diamond Tel cell phone to a central tracking
station, which would then call the local police, and tell them where the car
was.  Really cool.  Really spendy.  I never got to see or use one, but I bet
false alarms would be kindof a bummer!  I don't recall the price, but I know
it was in four digits.  I don't know if they still sell it, either.  
     Hope this helps some...




>Can someone recommend a good car alarm that wont mess up the original look
>of my 80 442? Something good, not one that uses alking or chirping as its
>main defense. I want starter disable, etc. I am spoiled with my 88 IROC
>having fuel injection I just yanked the fsues for the pump and injectors. My
>80 442 has no ECM. Thanks...
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
>1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
>1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
>1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:38:54 -0300
Subject: Re: signature (cars) 

>Look at this signature that I saw on UseNet rec.autos.antique:
>
>======================================================================
>From: martin-1@worldnet.att.net (John Martin)
>
>[snip article]
>
>John
>
>68 Cutlass Targa Top (I Made) 350R
>71 Cutlass 403R
>======================================================================
>
>
>A 68 Cutlass Targa!  Whaddaya think of that?
>-- 
>Drew
>
Chainsaw, Torch, or Milwakee Sawzall???
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:38:50 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Darwin Awards (non car related jokes) 

>In a message dated 96-08-14 14:59:29 EDT, you write:
>
><< These broke up my day... enjoy. >>
>
>Enjoy?  About people shooting themselves or falling out of windows or being
>scarred for life?  I don't think so.  Next time I'll pass, thanks.

     Yeah, right!  Tragically amusing!  Foolishly hilarious.  As demented as
it sounds, I think it's funnier than hell!  (I may go there for saying that,
but it's the irony of the world we live in!)  Ranks right in there with
shooting yourself with the homemade fuse!  These would be a lot better, were
they not fatal, those always suck, but it really is amusing!
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:38:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 9/96 issue of Hot Rod mag 

>Anyone got the September '96 issue of Hot Rod Magazine?  That issue
>itself is fairly worthless as far as content goes.  It's devoted mostly to
>the '96 Power Tour.  There's a nice '6? 442 convertible on page 28,
>though. 

     Yup, a '67.  Can't leave out the '66 on page 43, and the '70 GSX on 41.
(Sorry, wrong list for that one, but I've a soft spot there, and hey, it's
not a bowtie or ford, so it's good!  BOP's rule and that's all there is to
it! )  :)



                         
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:38:57 -0300
Subject: Chill out!   Toothbrush 

>>Is it true there is only one toothbrush in Alabama?
>>and that one belongs to someone from Georgia.

>this is not a gossip group...go elsewhere with your BS
>
Wah, wah.  This list is all in good fun.  That's what cars and auto
enthusiasts are all about, right?  Some jokes may get a little off color,
but I'd personally assume that anyone intelligent and coherent enough to own
and love the world's finest cars (and hence get on this list) should easily
be able to handle a joke or two without getting torque'd off.  It's just
like the three biggest lies of a Montana farmer.  The truck's paid for, the
check's in the mail, and I was just helping the sheep through the fence...
I'm happily from Montana, with the unabomber, freemen, and all that crap,
and I don't have any problems hearing jokes aimed this way.  I'd really like
to believe the rest of the members of this list are mature enough to feel
the same way.  Here's my thoughts on the subject:  If you're so strung up
that you can't even take a joke, buy a Ford and sell your Olds to someone
who's not liable to crack up and shoot everyone in Burger King!    (Sorry
Curly, this isn't aimed ~directly~ at you, but more-so at those who are too
caught up in their technical lives to stop and take time out for a little
fun.)  Lighten up, already!  This is supposed to be educational ~and~ fun.
I see nothing wrong with that.
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:39:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!! 

>hey, i'm a single 22 yr. old guy, looking for a nice, intelligent, attractive
>female (about the same age) that either owns or knows someone who owns an
>oldsmobile.  have her e-mail me sometime.  my address is in the header of
>this message.  Thanks.

     Yeah, p.s.  Send pic. of the Olds!!!

          (AND her toothbrush!!)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 06:39:02 -0300
Subject: Re: A Story!  Oh Joy! 

>
>Boys, Girls and Internet Novices:  It's story time!!

          S N I P

     Gee, Andy, what a nice story.  Didn't seem to have much to do with
Olds, though, but that's OK.  I agree there is a problem with multiple
postings and crowded servers, etc. but it seems there are about two or three
people on this list who object to straying from the subject.  C'mon guys,
lighten up.  This list was *not* intended to teach us everything there is to
know about Oldsmobiles.  This list was intended (to the best of my
assumptions) to bring those of us with similar interests together.
Everybody on this list has a common interest: Oldsmobiles.  Nothing wrong
there.  If there were a cooking list, all the cooks would talk about
recipes, who burnt what and how, and what small animal goes into the pot
next week.  I'd hope they wouldn't start world war three because some
extremist doesn't think a discussion of wine choices is appropriate
conversation for a cooking list!  For God's sake, guys, what are we doing
here if we can't have fun?  Were you ever in 4H, or Boy Scouts (or Girl
scouts...  I remember, I got kicked out for eating brownies!  Sorry had to
throw that in there.  For those that are humor impaired, get over it)  They
are clubs, just like this mailing list.  There is business to take care of,
but it involves much more than that.  The routine business is just in place
to make sure the organization can stay together one more week, and the
organization is there for entertainment value.  Come on, you didn't really
sit in the corner and tie knots all week long, did you?  I'd hope you
discussed interesting things with friends occasionally.  This list has
strong hopes of creating friendships by means of similar interests, and it
has worked quite well.  I never thought I could laugh so much at one
toothbrush!!!  (OR at one tooth!)  I found it very enjoyable and worthwhile.
Some of us like Oldsmobiles.  Some like Olds's and alarms.  Some like
Olds's, alarms, and humor.  Some don't like alarms.  Some don't care about
what color a certain car should have been. 
     If we weeded out every item that everyone didn't care about, all that
would remain would be a FAQ column, with no updates, and little value.  If
you don't like certain things, don't read them.  If your day is hectic
enough that you can't handle downloading those last four humor postings,
then you need a vacation.  If you simply don't care for any form of humor,
then you need a life.  That's all there is to it.  It's currently after 5:00
AM, I'm still weeding through over 800 messages.  You don't see me whining
about excess postings, or blank postings, or even generic stories.  Get over
it, dude.  S**t happens.  If you can't allow a little humor into your life,
you've got some serious problems.
     My plea to the Olds list members is to keep this stuff coming.   The
teethbrush, the darwin awards, all of it, I find very worthwhile.  I'd ask
for a numerical vote on who all wants and doesn't want this stuff, but that
would waste even more bandwidth than a joyous story!
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:34:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear end Was: The Rockit's back 

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 3:23 is a good rearend ratio.  At about 80mph you will reach 2800rpm.
> 3:23 and 3:08 are good highway gears and is acceptable with A/C.
> I know of some fellows that use 3:42 with A/C but I would not go any
> higher than that unless you buy underdrive pulleys.  Now this is for A/C
> cars.  A non-A/C car 3:73 is a good gear to cruise and still cruise 80mph
> with

> 
> W MACHINES(MARK PRINCE)

I used 3:23 gears on my new 1970 Buick GS 455 Stage 1 AC car (automatic) 
& got 14-15 mpg on the highway at 70 mph speeds.  RPM's were such that 
the car was very quiet on the highway.  My previous car was a 1968 
Camaro SS396 325 hp non-AC (automatic) using 3.08 gears & delivered 17 
mpg on the highway at 70 mph.  In those days, I could live w/something 
like that.  For a toy, I can live w/it today also.  Oldsmobiles shuld do 
something similar.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

PS: My 1968 442 4-speed w/3.91 gears is just bad.  I don't want to know 
how bad either.

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 08:32:40 -0300
Subject: Thanks: Lamp adjusted and Inspection done

Thank you guys.

My wife sends 'special' thanks to all of you who
helped us to find that lamp adjusting screw.
(And the clock keeps time exactly now).

We have decided to buy flat-top tires for winter
with no spikes on them. On my experience this
could be a good idea. It worked well on a Saab....

Have ordered weather stripping kit and PS-overhaul
kit from Fusick's. The guy who talked with me
was very nice and did his best to understand my
engklish. Many thanks to him too.

The weatherstripping is almost complete. What we
are missing is:
- - side window rubber lids
- - front door weatherstripping

Would it be possible to repair the old side window
rubber lids. Anyone done that?

If somebody has weatherstripping for my front-doors
or knows where to buy them, please tell us.

- -- 
**********************************************
* Esko & Anneli Ilola                        *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile 98  1964  4D HT                 *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:18:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Front End, Differential(2 & 3 series)

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> no sir, I launch my original 3:23 rear posi but replaced it with a 2:56
> carrier
> out of a 72 cutlass supreme. I had to use the spacer plate from Moroso
> with the 4:10 gear.  If i had the 2:73 carrier it would not have been
> necessary.
> 3 series and 4 series carriers are for the 12 bolt chevys.  So yes you can
> use
> the 2 and 3 series carriers from 71 to 80 with the 8.5 carriers.
> 
> W MACHINES

Hey, that's good news. O.k....How about posi.Can I use that 2.73 diff. that I 
have 
and replace the carrier (the part w/ the gears) not the pot, with a posi unit, 
lets 
say with a 3.42 posi unit. What year can I get this from to fit the '72 2.73 
carrier?
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:43:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level

Todd Morris wrote:
> 
> 
> Does Xmans and an H pipe really make that much difference???   He even went 
so far as to say that 3 chambers with xmans and H pipe are TOO 
quiet.  I'm skeptical.....thoughts??
> 

Todd, and H pipe evens out the pulses an engine will produce. The pulses 
are what cause the noise and if theye are uneven that's what make 
exhausts louder. The stock Xmans also help reduce the noise. He maybe 
right. Do you plan on keeping the Xmnas on ? What if you replace them 
with headers?
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 09:51:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear end  Was: The Rockit's back 

> At 06:04 AM 8/22/96 -0300, you wrote:
> >I've still got the
> >3.23 posi in there for the curious ones.  
> 
> I've been considering swapping my 2.?? open rear for probably a 3.23 posi.
> Just wondering what kind of rpm's your turning at, oh, 65 or 70 mph (highway
> speeds).  That is the only concern I have (should I have more?), because I
> drive my car every day about 12 miles on the interstate.

depends on your tire size.

MPH     tire dia.       rearend         RPM
65      26.5            2.92:1          2400
65      26.5            3.23:1          2660
65      26.5            3.55:1          2930
65      26.5            3.73:1          3070

65      28.0            2.92:1          2280
65      28.0            3.23:1          2520
65      28.0            3.55:1          2770
65      28.0            3.73:1          2910

a 225/70R14 has a  26.5" dia.

As you can see, a 3.73 w/ 26.5 tires acts more like a 3.55 w/ 26.5" tires.

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:00:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

Can anybody out there who has Mondellos cam catalogue post the cam 
numbers w/ there specs. I don't have a catalogue, not sure why since I 
ordered his JM16-18 cam for my 350 but no catalogue came with it. Anyway 
I'd be interested in knowing what the other cams specs around this cam I 
have are. I want to you if I could of gone with a big cam without 
sacraficing idle and more.

- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:02:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Northern Ohio Olds Show 

At 10:22 PM 8/22/96 -0300, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-08-22 09:05:33 EDT, you write:
>
><< I'd bring the 98. >>
>
>OK.  Will do.  Would rather have the A/C anyway, I think.  I'll put the
>Delcotron, voltage regulator and coil back in tomorrow nite so she's ready
>for the weekend.  Looking forward to the "Biggest Dent" award.
>
>Paul


I'll look for you.



Dan


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: hitson@leadbelt.com (Roger Hitson)
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 22:10:54 -0300
Subject: Re: SENSOR ON TOP OF 400 ENGINE

>At 02:22 PM 8/18/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>>least I think it's a sensor that's on the right?  It looks like a post 
coming 
>>up out of the intake manifold (right hand side) with three hose fittings 
>>comming off of it.  All three have been cut off right at the post and have 
>>just little pieces of hose still on the leads coming off the post.  I have 
no 
>>idea what this is
>>                                                      Craig Dobbins
>>                                                      '68 442 convertable 
>Craig:
>
>I think what you're describing is a thermostatic vacuum switch.  It is used
>for routing vacuum to the distrubutor.  It switches the vacuum source for
>the vacuum advance to full or ported vacuum, depending on the temp of the
>coolant.  One of the three lines attaches to the distributor, one other goes
>to a full vacuum source on the intake manifold, and the other attaches to a
>ported vacuum source on the carb.  I believe the vacuum advance should
>receive vacuum from the full vacuum source when the engine is cold, and when
>it warms up, it gets the ported vacuum (less advance).  Mine has the top
>vacuum line connected to the vacuum advance module, the center one goes to
>the carb, and the bottom one goes to the full vacuum source on the manifold.
>I don't know if this hookup is right, though, since my switch is broken.
>Someone here will know the correct hookup.  The thing kinda looks like this:
>
>   _
>  | |= <-- top (connected to vacuum advance)
>  | |= <-- center (connected to carb vacuum source)
>  | |= <-- bottom (connected to manifold vacuum source)
> _| |_
>|_____|
>_|___|_____
>
>This diagram is based on the way the one on my 350 is hooked up, and is
>subject to correction, as always!
>      
>         
>--
>Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
>dpauliso@metrolink.net
>
>
>
>
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------------
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------------

Craig:

Did you ever hook up the TVS?

If so:
1. Which of the recommended ways? and
2. Can you tell any difference in engine operation/performance? 

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:14:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Thanks: Lamp adjusted and Inspection done 

At 08:32 AM 8/23/96 -0300, you wrote:

>The weatherstripping is almost complete. What we
>are missing is:
>- side window rubber lids
>- front door weatherstripping
>
>Would it be possible to repair the old side window
>rubber lids. Anyone done that?
>

I'm not sure what you mean by "rubber lids."

Fusick does sell window weatherstrips.  I purchased
leading edge weather strips for the rear windows of my
'64 Jetstar 88 2 door hardtop.  Fusick might also have
the door weatherstrip.  Another source would be
Steele Rubber Products.  They sell all sorts of rubber
parts for old cars.


Dan





>If somebody has weatherstripping for my front-doors
>or knows where to buy them, please tell us.

************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:37:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Condensors, Was: Thanks Folks

Spud wrote:
> 
> > DC voltage cannot be step up through a transformer alone (which is 
> > what the coil is).
> 
> Not so...

I disagree.  Hook up you 12v battery to the primary of your coil and 
measure the output.  Unless you're REAL quick and can get a meter on it 
in the first couple of time constants, you measure zero.  But in the 
charge/discharge cycle of an ignition circuit, we not exactly talking DC, 
are we?  More like low frequency.

> Since the battery is not connected to the primary of the coil during
> discharge, the voltage on the primary can increase uncontrollably...

In a perfect world.

> So, the condensor moderates the jump in voltage on the primary of the 
> coil and shunts excess current to ground, keeping the points from 
> burning up as fast.

Agreed.  Certainly the cap effects the output pulse but I'd still 
maintain the capacitor's role in an LC circuit is more than "spark 
supression"  

Think we're splitting hairs here?

> > The condensor, or capacitor, is charged by 12v ...

Yeah, poor choice of words on my part. I was trying to oversimplify and 
got a little carried away.

STAY TUNED FOR OUR NEXT EXCITING DISCUSSION:

    Transconductance in Vacuum Tubes and How They Can Lower Your E.T.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Todd Morris <tmorris@bt1dc18e.bet.ibm.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:24:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level 

Forwarding note from: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca> 	Thu, 
22 Aug 1996 18:43:04 -0300 
   
I've not had problems with headers in the past but on the 71 442 I think 
you have to raise the engine to install them.  Kind of a hassle and not 
worth it for me so I doubt I'd ever install them.  However, I do realize 
their performance and efficiency advantages.  If someone knows for certain 
that headers can be installed without raising the engine I'd seriously 
consider 
installing them when/if I redo the rest of the exhaust system. 
 
 
>Todd, and H pipe evens out the pulses an engine will produce. The pulses  
>are what cause the noise and if theye are uneven that's what make  
>exhausts louder. The stock Xmans also help reduce the noise. He maybe  
>right. Do you plan on keeping the Xmnas on ? What if you replace t.hem  
>with headers? 
 
 
Todd Morris 
71 442 
  

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eol.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 11:37:19 -0300
Subject: Mult-Meter

I purchased a  Multi-Meter  tester to test the 
voltage of my battery but apparently there are many 
(hundreds?) of other uses for this thing.  What 
other uses do you have for yours (be nice now!)?

**************************************************
SG Hartfelder
Edmonton, AB  CANADA

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eol.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 11:39:45 -0300
Subject: Merry Olds

I'd also like to get a copy of the 26 different 
versions of In My Merry Oldsmobile.

How could I get a (cassette) copy??

**************************************************
SG Hartfelder
Edmonton, AB  CANADA

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:45:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Condensors, Was: Thanks Folks 

>> The condensor, or capacitor, is charged by 12v then 
>>discharged through the coil through the action of the points.  The pulse 
>>generated by this charge/discharge cycle is what's stepped up from ~12v 
>>to the 25-35,000v of the coil output.
>
>Not so.  See the above.
>
>>But I do agree with you diagnosis, doctor.   ;)
>
>Me, too.

So to recap (again), I apparently have two experts here who don't agree
with each other but both agree with me. Maybe I should run for office...

Another question to toss out here: So the coil fires when the magnetic
field collapses when the primary shuts off. Does it not also do something
similar when the field sets up (i.e. when the primary is switched _on_)?
In other words, I thought from what I learned years ago that the pulse 
produced in the secondary which fires the plugs is caused by changes in
the magnetic field, either "on" or "off". Details?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 14:54:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter

SG Hartfelder wrote:
> =

> I purchased a =91Multi-Meter=92 tester to test the
> voltage of my battery but apparently there are many
> (hundreds?) of other uses for this thing.  What
> other uses do you have for yours (be nice now!)?

Door stop, hockey puck, smashing Palmetto bugs...

Kidding, kidding...

Our old friends at Radio Shack have a book call "Using Your Meter" (Duh!) =

#62-2039 for $5.99 and a lot of electronic supply houses carry Tab or =

Sams books on the same subject.

Beside voltage measurements, resistance measurements (ohms scale) are =

pretty useful around a car.  Checking for blown fuses (good =3D 0 ohms), =

continuity of wires, wires shorted to ground, etc.  I've also used it to =

read the codes from the car's computer.

Lots of potential uses around the house, too.  Checking outlets, etc.  =

Get one of the books, it'll open up a whole new world.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- =

Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:47:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Thanks: Lamp adjusted and Inspection done 

>>Would it be possible to repair the old side window
>>rubber lids. Anyone done that?
>>
>
>I'm not sure what you mean by "rubber lids."

I'll take a stab at this: I think he's referring to the weatherstripping
over the triangular vent windows on the front doors. The portion forward
of the vent pivot, over that portion of the glass which turns inward when
opened, is like a rubber flap or lid that covers the edge of the frame.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Todd Morris <tmorris@bt1dc18e.bet.ibm.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:59:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear end Was: The Rockit's back  

Forwarding note from: WMACHINES@aol.com 	Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:04:08 
-0300 
   
What would you not use 3.42 or higher with A/C?? 
 
 
>3:23 is a good rearend ratio.  At about 80mph you will reach 2800rpm. 
>3:23 and 3:08 are good highway gears and is acceptable with A/C. 
>I know of some fellows that use 3:42 with A/C but I would not go any  
>higher than that unless you buy underdrive pulleys.  Now this is for A/C 
>.cars.  A non-A/C car 3:73 is a good gear to cruise and still cruise 80mph 
 
 
Todd Morris 
71 442   
   
   
  

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:03:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!!

but hey....  as long as she doesn't mind the car hobbie....

seriously....   i'm interested and available and 22 if you know of any
single, attractive, intelligent females....  a picture of the olds or
her toothbrush is optional!  --joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 11:00:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter 

>I purchased a 'Multi-Meter' tester to test the 
>voltage of my battery but apparently there are many 
>(hundreds?) of other uses for this thing.

261, actually. Or 262, if you count the one about using the test 
probes as emergency corn cob holders.

>What other uses do you have for yours (be nice now!)?

I find I use it most often for testing ground connections by measuring
resistance (or continuity, depending on your point of view) between the
suspect wire or part, and the body of the car. On a related note, the
resistance test helps determine whether a component such as a bulb or 
switch is burned out or broken. One thing I wish _my_ meter had was a
buzzer to signal continuity, so I wouldn't have to squint at the meter
each time just to see if the needle is sweeping or not.

Most often after that I'm testing to find hot wires and see if they're
really carrying 12V when they're supposed to.

The thin probes are essential for reaching recessed contacts in plugs
and connectors. For spiking a wire to see if it's carrying current,
I have a separate analyzer (made by CarTronix, I think) with a hooked
probe on the end; you hook the wire in question, then push a sliding
knob on the analyzer which spears the wire in the hook with a thin
needle probe and lights an LED if 12V is present (there's a ground 
wire and clip on the analyzer to ground the test probe). If you do a
lot of electrical work this kind of tool is the next thing you need
to buy after the multi-meter.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Todd Morris <tmorris@bt1dc18e.bet.ibm.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:07:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff 

Forwarding note from: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com> 	Thu, 22 Aug 
1996 15:24:47 -0300 
   
Chris, I'm curious how involved it was to install the Comp Cams roller  
rockers.  Also, do you really think they're worth it? 
 
 
Todd Morris 
71 442 
 

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 08:13:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Thanks: Lamp adjusted and Inspection done 

Hey,
  Call the people at METRO weatherstripping and rubber parts 
(1-800-878-2237).  They make all of their own stuff (copy it from an original 
piece, so almost everything is exact).  Just tell them what you need, or just 
ask for a catalog.

                                                     Craig Dobbins
>Date:		Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:14:13 -0300
>From:	Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Thanks: Lamp adjusted and Inspection done
>
>At 08:32 AM 8/23/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>>The weatherstripping is almost complete. What we
>>are missing is:
>>- side window rubber lids
>>- front door weatherstripping
>>
>>Would it be possible to repair the old side window
>>rubber lids. Anyone done that?
>>
>
>I'm not sure what you mean by "rubber lids."
>
>Fusick does sell window weatherstrips.  I purchased
>leading edge weather strips for the rear windows of my
>'64 Jetstar 88 2 door hardtop.  Fusick might also have
>the door weatherstrip.  Another source would be
>Steele Rubber Products.  They sell all sorts of rubber
>parts for old cars.
>
>
>Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>>If somebody has weatherstripping for my front-doors
>>or knows where to buy them, please tell us.
>
>************************************************
>Daniel A. Gulino
>Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
>Department of Chemical Engineering
>Ohio University
>Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
>(614) 593-1495
>(614) 593-0873 (fax)
>gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
>http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
>************************************************
>
>

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:13:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Junkyard HEI and condenser questions

Greg,
I might have missed part of your conversations on the Vista problem, and if 
so, 
please excuse me. 
I had a 70 Chev. pick up truck that would run wonderful everytime I tuned it. 
Then, in a short period of time it ran lousy. Tune it up, great, then ran 
lousy 
again in a short time. Finally, I put a new distributor in it and never again 
had the problem. The original distributor was just worn out evidently.

Art Fuller
72 flattop wagon

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 11:04:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear end Was: The Rockit's back  

>What would you not use 3.42 or higher with A/C?? 

I guess the logic is that the RPMs would be too high for the compressor
over an extended period of time. Not the compressor couldn't physically
stand it, but perhaps you get weirdness in the flow of Freon under those
conditions. I haven't heard of this as a specific problem; sounds more 
like a precautionary move, IMHO.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: DESIMONEP@aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:19:15 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI/Radio Noise 

Good spark plug wires will definitely help ignition noise, but the purist
solution is to install a very large capacitor across the positive and
negative supply wires to the ignition. MSD sells such a device for ~$25, I
have one on my car with multiple amps and it solved the problem. After I
installed dual electric fans on the radiator, I had the same problem but with
noise from the fans. I installed a second MSD Capacitor across the supply
lines to the fan and...    silence again! As it says in the MSD catalog,
these baby's are worth their weight in gold! (If you have radio noise, of
course! Or else you could take your wife out to dinner to sweet talk her into
the next part you need for your baby!!!)

Phil De Simone
desimonep@aol.com
1968 Olds Cutlass "S" Convertible

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:20:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter

multi-meters can be used to check continuity of wires, fuses, lightbulbs,
voltage of ac/dc, amps, resistance, shorts,and i'm sure there are many other
uses too.   hope this gives you some ideas.
until later....

- --joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: eric_b_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:45:59 -0300
Subject: Moisture pack update

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     Just an update and a few instructions
     1.This weeks supply got thrown out last night by one of the graveyard 
     people. So, other than the few that are allready promised their ration 
     you're going to have to wait until next week. 
     2.The packs measure 5 X 5 X 1/2 (inches) and weigh in at or around .15 
     pounds each.
     3.The best way, I'm told, to use and make these last the longest 
     possible is to put them in a strainer on top of a bowl. The beads dont 
     absorb that much, they just attract a lot of moisture. So, if you let 
     the excess moisture run off and empty regularly you get extended 
     usage. So I'm told. I'm fairly sure that they can be baked but don't 
     hold me to it. 
     That is all. 
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 Deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:50:02 -0300
Subject: Resto  Tips  .....

using a spring type clothes pin, you can save your fingers from being stabbed
when checking wires with a multi meter or probe while keeping a good 
connection.

drill a small hole at each of the circular grooves of the clothes pin (on one
side only), clamp your wire with the clothes pin and stick the metal probe
into the hole of the clothes pin.  the probe stays centered on the wire
for good contact, and the other side doesnt have a hole acts as a stop, to
save your finger from being punctured.

This will have an illustration in the Resto Tips Book when it is released.


Resto Corner

- --joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:51:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Moisture pack update

where do i send shipping money to???

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:50:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

At 10:00 PM 8/22/96 +0000, you wrote:
>Can anybody out there who has Mondellos cam catalogue post the cam 
>numbers w/ there specs. I don't have a catalogue, not sure why since I 
>ordered his JM16-18 cam for my 350 but no catalogue came with it. Anyway 
>I'd be interested in knowing what the other cams specs around this cam I 
>have are. I want to you if I could of gone with a big cam without 
>sacraficing idle and more.


Mondello Cams are as follows:

CAM             INTAKE  EXHAUST INTAKE          EXHAUST         LOBE
NUMBER          LIFT    LIFT    DURATION .050   DURATION .050   CENTER
JM-14-100       .432    .455    204             212             112
JM-16           .472    .472    210             210             114    
JM-16-18        .472    .488    210             216             112
JM-18-20        .488    .496    216             226             112
JM-20-22        .496    .512    226             230             110
JM-22-25        .512    .523    230             236             108
JM-22-25-10     .512    .523    230             236             110
JM-25-28        .523    .544    236             248             108
JM-28-29        .544    .544    248             258             108
JM-30           .560    .576    252             263             106
JM-32           .584    .568    266             270             107
JM-34           .488    .472    216             210             114
JM-36           .523    .512    236             230             114
                                        
The remaining #'s are mechanical and roller cams.  Hopefully the chart will
come out in a readable form.

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455 

------------------------------

From: eric_b_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:54:33 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Darwin Awards (non car related jokes)

     Did you guys see last years winner. Some guy strapped a JATO (Jet 
     assisted take off) bottle to his Impala and touched it off (solid 
     rocket used to launch C-5's and such off of short runways) 
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 Deluxe
     Albany, OR

     


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: FW: Darwin Awards (non car related jokes)
Author:  Non-HP-oldsmobile-owner (oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca) at 
HP-Corvallis,mimegw1
Date:    8/23/96 2:38 AM


>In a message dated 96-08-14 14:59:29 EDT, you write: 
>
><< These broke up my day... enjoy. >> 
>
>Enjoy?  About people shooting themselves or falling out of windows or being 
>scarred for life?  I don't think so.  Next time I'll pass, thanks.
     
     Yeah, right!  Tragically amusing!  Foolishly hilarious.  As demented as
it sounds, I think it's funnier than hell!  (I may go there for saying that, 
but it's the irony of the world we live in!)  Ranks right in there with 
shooting yourself with the homemade fuse!  These would be a lot better, were 
they not fatal, those always suck, but it really is amusing!
     
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern 
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner 
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)
     

------------------------------

From: <eekstrom@coris.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:01:21 -0300
Subject: 455 headers and Carb recalibration

     My father owns a 1977 GMC motorhome with a 455 Rocket in it.  In fact 
     is whole drive train is shared with a toronodo.  He is in the process 
     of adding headers to replace a leaky exhaust manifold.  He has heard 
     that after adding headers to an engine, the carburetor should be 
     recalibrated.  I assume this means new jets and perhaps needle rods.   
     Is this necessary?  Does anyone know of a shop in the Chicago area 
     that can perform this?
     
     
     Ed Ekstrom
     eekstrom@coris.com
     '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
     
     John (my Dad) Ekstrom
     '77 GMC Kingley Motorhome

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:28:37 -0300
Subject: RE: Cam Stuff

Installation takes about 1.5 hours and couldn't be easier.Yes I think =
its worth it because a) They are stronger b) less friction c) converts =
Olds valavetrain to adjustable d) cost less than real roller rockers =
e)they are lighter as they eliminate the bridge in conventional rockers. =
There is a place here in Canada called Canadain High Performance, they =
are on the west coast they sell a complete kit for the Olds =
(rockers,pushrods, studs, guide plates, for around $320 can. Convert =
that to US that should be about $5. If you'd like the number let me =
know.

- ----------
From: 	Todd Morris[SMTP:tmorris@BT1DC18E.bet.ibm.com]
Sent: 	Friday, August 23, 1996 12:07 PM
To: 	Olds List
Subject: 	Re: Cam Stuff

Forwarding note from: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com> 	Thu, 22 Aug =
1996 15:24:47 -0300=20
  =20
Chris, I'm curious how involved it was to install the Comp Cams roller =20
rockers.  Also, do you really think they're worth it?=20
=20
=20
Todd Morris=20
71 442=20
=20

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 12:20:14 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Darwin Awards (non car related jokes) 

>     Did you guys see last years winner. Some guy strapped a JATO (Jet 
>     assisted take off) bottle to his Impala and touched it off (solid 
>     rocket used to launch C-5's and such off of short runways) 

Stop. Do not pass Go. Do not collect $200. Go directly to...

http://www.urbanlegends.com/afu.faq

and follow the links for "Life in the Fast Lane."

The Urban Legends FAQ lists this particular story as "Unanswered and may 
be unanswerable", apparently due to either too many contradictory sources
cited in the various versions, or not enough sources at all.

(Do an Alta Vista search on "jato darwin urban legend" and marvel at how 
many versions of this thing are floating around out there.  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:07:13 -0300
Subject: RE: Cam Stuff

- ----------
Definately allows you to use a bigger cam and adjusting 
them is rather easy.  And speaking of Mondello's Cams, has anyone used 
the JM20-22 or JM22-25 with a 4-speed and 3.91 rearend?

My personal favourite for a street car with power brakes is JM3-4

------------------------------

From: eric_b_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:34:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Moisture pack update

     I think the best way to do this would be for you to send me a pre-paid 
     box. That way I don't have to keep track of everyone's money. Just 
     send the box with a note inside saying how many you want. If anyone 
     has a better suggestion I wouldn't mind hearing it.
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 Deluxe
     Albany, OR

my E-mail is 
Eric B. Buckner@Non-Hp.om.cv.hp.com
or
ender@dnc.net

If you need my home address I'll send it to you personally.
     


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Moisture pack update
Author:  Non-HP-oldsmobile-owner (oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca) at 
HP-Corvallis,mimegw1
Date:    8/23/96 9:51 AM


where do i send shipping money to???

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 16:40:16 -0300
Subject: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

     
     I have a couple of puzzling items on my '72 Cutlass Supreme 
     Convertible.  I hope you folks can shed light on these.
     
     The first involves the trunk lamp.  The lamp was installed in the 
     trunk when I purchased the car, with a functional bulb and a working 
     12v supply.  What is missing is a ground to the bulb.  The bulb is 
     mounted in a plastic shell.  This shell is held to a bracket by the 
     left trunk hinge by 2 clips.  There is no electrical connection from 
     the chassis ground to the bulb.  The bulb is pinched into the shell, 
     and there does not appear to be any parts missing (obviously there 
     is).  The factory manuals do not illustrate the part or give any clue 
     as to how it should be connected.  Also, the manuals indicate that the 
     switched interior supply is feeding the lamp.  Does this mean that 
     there is no switch on the trunk?  My suspicion is that somehow the 
     trunk lid should have a metal tab that can contact the bulb when the 
     lid is open, but I can't tell what it should look like or how to mount 
     it.
     
     
     The second mystery involves a series of plastic tabs on the forward 
     edge of the rear seat cushion and on the rear armrest panels below the 
     courtesy lamps.  They are facing up.  They are lined up such that you 
     could almost set a piece of 1/4" plywood into them standing upright. 
     The ones on the armrest panels are white (the interior is white), and 
     appear to be carefully installed on the car. The center ones are 
     slightly different in shape and are black.  The seat belts are too far 
     away for them to be used to hold them.  
     
     I sent a message a couple of weeks ago on the tabs, and I suddenly was 
     unsubscribed.  I don't know if it went out, nor could I see any 
     potential responses.  I apologize if you folks have already responded 
     to this, and would appreciate another reply.
     
     Brett Chaveriat                brett@actel.com 
     Arlington Hts, IL
     
     '72 Cutlass Supreme convt  

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:43:10 -0300
Subject: Camshaft adviceand etc requested

Folks

Right now I have a 1969 442 with the follllowing:
400 cid engine
4 barrel Quadrajet
automatic  TH400
stock torque convertor
air conditioning (just spent $610 to get it fixed)
power steering
power brakes
3:23 to 1 open differential
SSII 14x6 skinny wheels P225 tires
Stock distributor with a Mallory Unilite conversion to replace the
points and a new 40kV coil.

In the near future the rear end will be a 3:90 posi and 2.5 exhaust
through 2 chamber flowmasters.  Stock exhaust manifolds (intake and
exhaust)

I was thinking of a JM20-22 mondello cam.  What do ya'll think?
Right now the 3:23 one wheel wonder will spin that skinny tire dern near
forever.  When I get the 3:91s I'm sure traction will be my main
problem.  What do ya'll do for traction?  Tire size? tire make?  wheel
size?  wheel backspacing? Anti hop bars?  tubular control arms?

I don't drive the car much.  Just on the week ends and to the drag strip
on occasion.  It is an 1/8 mile track.  Do I need to find an oversize
pulley for the air conditioner.  Where can I get one?

I envite and apperciate any advice or reccomendations that ya'll can
give me.  I value ya'lls opinions and experience.  I don't have enough
money right now to "buy" experience.  I would eventually figure this
stuff out but boy what an expense.

TIA

John M Harris
69 442

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 23:12:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Noise Level

Well, I don't have a 455 so I can't say for sure, but on the 350 the drivers 
side goes in without 
lifting the engine. That's using Heddman headers. On the passenger side, I had 
to lift the engine 
just a little in order to clear the firewall, funny theres more stuff 
(steering column) on the 
drivers side and yet the pass. side is more trouble. Some one else who has a 
71 w/ 455 help w/ 
this?

- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:09:41 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement 

Hello,
  I looked again at my fan on '68 442.  It is a 4-blade with the non-clutch 
attachment.  Seeing as how the 7-blade that I have has the clutch on it, is 
there anyway of removing the 4-blade (well I know I can remove it but . . .) 
and attaching the 7-blade to the same fitting that went on the 4-blade?

                                                       Wondering,
                                                        Craig Dobbins


>Yes, I agree with the above statements.  I was refering the comment that
>these engines run hot as being "during idle traffic".  There for it would
> be
>more beneficial to have a fan turning all the time in such conditions.  As
>far as when the vehicle reaches speed then there probably is no difference
>between the two for cooling.  The small HP loss with a clutchless fan is
>also probably not noticable unless you are drag racing.
>
>Another thing that can be done to increase cooling during idle somewhat is
>to put a larger diameter pulley on the water pump and/or a smaller one on
>the crank.  This will in effect increase the flow through the water pump
> and
>the entire cooling system.  As long as the rad is large enough to
>dissipate/exchange the heat fast enough then this should help.
> 
>Nick DiGiovanni
>Port Coquitlam, B.C.
>1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:02:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

>     I have a couple of puzzling items on my '72 Cutlass Supreme 
>     Convertible.  I hope you folks can shed light on these.
>     
>     The first involves the trunk lamp.  The lamp was installed in the 
>     trunk when I purchased the car, with a functional bulb and a working 
>     12v supply.  What is missing is a ground to the bulb.  The bulb is 
>     mounted in a plastic shell.  This shell is held to a bracket by the 
>     left trunk hinge by 2 clips.

I'm not sure how original that design is; the usual factory lamp mounted
under the lip of the trunk lid near the trunk lock cylinder (look for a
squarish opening in the lid frame to the left of the latch, with a small
screw hole punched next to it). Yours may be an aftermarket design; I've
seen it once before on a '69 Bonneville (and ironically, that one didn't
work either until I reassembled it).

>  There is no electrical connection from 
>     the chassis ground to the bulb.  The bulb is pinched into the shell, 
>     and there does not appear to be any parts missing (obviously there 
>     is).

Guess so. I think there was some kind of little actuator arm that stuck
into the hinge assembly, something like that.

> Also, the manuals indicate that the 
>     switched interior supply is feeding the lamp.

I don't _think_ so. If you look at the large harness connector in the left
side or rear of the trunk, where the aluminum bus conduit running from the
fusebox plugs into the rear wiring harness, you should find an orange lead
available for the trunk light. If you don't find an orange lead plugged in
anywhere, test to find an unused plug contact that's hot at all times;
that'll be your trunk light power lead.

The _hood_ lamp is commonly powered by a switched power supply, though;
it only operates when the vehicle lights are on. If you're retrofitting
a GM underhood lamp, hunt for a dangling, unused brown lead in the vicinity
of the master cylinder.

>     I sent a message a couple of weeks ago on the tabs, and I suddenly was 
>     unsubscribed. 

Yes, we do that to people who ask questions we can't answer.

>     Brett Chaveriat                brett@actel.com 
>     Arlington Hts, IL

Huh. Small world. Guess what town I live in.  ;-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 14:07:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat

>      switched interior supply is feeding the lamp.  Does this mean that 
>      there is no switch on the trunk?  My suspicion is that somehow the 
>      trunk lid should have a metal tab that can contact the bulb when the 
>      lid is open, but I can't tell what it should look like or how to mount 
>      it.

Just guessing...

Usually those lamps are controlled by a mercury switch.  Opening the
trunk causes the mercury to flow and make contact.  That should be
part of the lamp socket.  The housing is no srewed to the trunk lid to
provide a ground?

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 10:18:44 -0300
Subject: BIG fatty tires on rims 

Hi everybody,
  I have a set of what I think are SSII rims (painted).  These rims can take 
the extra fat tires (painted a gold color, not sure if these were special 
rims or what?!)  I want to put these on my '68 442 after it's painted with 
bigger tires (just) in the back.  If I put the largest, fattest size tire I 
can on them (probably around 265-275 or so), will this affect my 
transmission?  I don't want to beat on it just for the sake of fat tires, and 
a friend of mine told me that a tire that big will eventually do damage to 
the transmission unless I haul it out and have some work done on it to make 
it more heavy duty.  Everything on the car is original.

                                                      Thanks,
                                                       Craig Dobbins
                                                       '68 442 Convertable

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 14:23:32 -0300
Subject: FW: WINTERIZING IN BUFFALO!

On Mon, 19 Aug 1996 you wrote :
>If I had some silica gel crystals I'd put them in the 
>interior and trunk to absorb moisture, but I've never collected enough of 
>them to do that. Doesn't seem to hurt anything. I've done this each 
>winter for a few years, and store the car for about 5 months this way 
>with no problems.

An old trick to prevent moisture if you don't have access to a commercial
dessicant like silica gel, is to put a large throw away type aluminum roasting
pan in the trunk and in the interior filled with kitty litter.  This dry clay
draws a fair amount of humidity out the atmosphere.  You can change it now and
then if you feel the need.  You can even use the old stuff for the kitty !

Dry Portland cement is cheap and does a good job, too !

Hey ! this sounds like a Resto-tip !

Frank Boerger
'68 convertible/'68 coupe-for-parts car
Tallahassee

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 14:37:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter

> I purchased a  Multi-Meter  tester to test the 
> voltage of my battery but apparently there are many 
> (hundreds?) of other uses for this thing.  What 
> other uses do you have for yours (be nice now!)?

Multi-meters usually measure voltage, current, and resistance
(impedance) for AC and DC.

I have never used the AC features for a car.  But for DC...

Voltage:
  Battery across terminals should be 12V with engine off.

  Battery across terminals should be ~13.8V with engine on (means
  alternator is working).

  To see if fuse, wire, lamp socket, lighter, etc... is alive, measure
  between what you are checking, and ground, which is most metal
  parts on the car.

Current:
  You measure current by placing the ammeter in the circuit, not across
  the connections.  If you measure the current being drawn from the
  battery, take off a cable, and measure between the cable end and the
  battery terminal.  If you just try to measure from the + to - terminals
  on the battery, you will find that your ammeter won't handle 500-1000
  amps, and will probably stop working/start smoking.

  If the ignition is off, and all accessories are off, there should be
  no current flow from the battery.  Most of us have a clock or digital
  radio that will cause a current flow, when everything else if off.
  
  Use your ammeter to figure out what is killing your battery overnight.

Resistance:
  The resistance between two ends of the same wire should be negligable.
  If you think there may be an internal break in a wire, you can measure
  the resistance between the two ends.  It will be pegged (maximum) if
  there is a break, it will be zero, of very close, if the wire is okay.

  The ohmeter requires a power source.  This is why your multimeter needs
  a battery, if it is analog.  Digital mutimeters require a battery
  to run their internal digital components (e.g. display), also.

  If your ohmeter has a continuity beep, then it will beep if there is
  no resistance, so you don't have to look at the display.  A nice
  feature.

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v



  
  

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 23:45:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

That's great Robert, thanks now I know the specs when JM cam question come up.

I remember seeing this catalogue once. Does it still have the description 
according to Joe, 
what the cam works best with or what it will need inoder for the cam to work 
(i.e stall 
converters, headers, head work...)? I remember it saying that the JM16-18 was 
works with good 
the street racer and works w/ the stock converter. What does it mention about 
the JM18-20 and 
JM20-22?

 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Kevin Daly <cosmo@wasatch.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 14:36:14 -0300
Subject: Cylinder Heads

I have a '71 455 in my boat that recently removed one of the heads on.  When I 
pulled it 
out I noticed the exhaust valve seat had come out and was wedged sideways, but 
wouldn't 
let the valve close.  Also, the head was cracked.  I was wondering if anyone 
knows how 
much 2 new heads would cost, and where I can get them.  I've got to get the 
boat in the 
water before Labor Day.

Thanks,

Kevin Daly
cosmo@wasatch.com

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 23:59:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat

Brett,
	the trunck light grounds to the chassis through the clip on the 
fixture. The way the light works 
is with a metal cam or rod that act as a gate. The light needs to be place on 
the pillar in the truck on 
the drivers side. It should be placed in such a matter that when the lid is 
opened the the lid hinge 
contacts the little rod sticking out of the light fixture. The rod contacts 
the light thus grounding it. 
If there is no rod like think when a bend on it then you missing that part and 
the light won't work 
without it.

Your other question was answered some time ago, concerning those plastic tabs. 
I think some one said they 
are used to harness the front shoulder belts asin the hardtops there was aclip 
on the foor, On 
convertibles they used the tabs on the rear seats.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 18:23:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter

Robert Lawrence wrote:
>
>   Battery across terminals should be ~13.8V with engine on (means
>   alternator is working).

At fast idle.

>   To see if fuse, wire, lamp socket, lighter, etc... is alive, measure
>   between what you are checking, and ground, which is most metal
>   parts on the car.

On the DC VOLTS range.  Don't try this on OHMS!
 
> Current:
>   You measure current by placing the ammeter in the circuit, not across
>   the connections.  If you measure the current being drawn from the
>   battery, take off a cable, and measure between the cable end and the
>   battery terminal.  If you just try to measure from the + to - 
>   terminals on the battery, you will find that your ammeter won't 
>   handle 500-1000 amps, and will probably stop working/start smoking.

You betcha!  Be careful about measuring amperage in general with a 
multimeter.  Many have a rather limited scale, often in the MILLIamp 
range.  Don't try to measure amperage that could be well in excess of the 
highest range of the meter.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 14:53:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter 

>>   To see if fuse, wire, lamp socket, lighter, etc... is alive, measure
>>   between what you are checking, and ground, which is most metal
>>   parts on the car.
>
>On the DC VOLTS range.  Don't try this on OHMS!

Actually I did this once by mistake (tried to check voltage with the
meter switched to Ohms); fortunately all it did was recharge the half
dead battery in the meter. Lucky me.  :-)

>You betcha!  Be careful about measuring amperage in general with a 
>multimeter.  Many have a rather limited scale, often in the MILLIamp 
>range.  Don't try to measure amperage that could be well in excess of the 
>highest range of the meter.

My Craftsman engine analyzer came with a shunt device to attach to the
battery terminals to enable you to measure amperage using the analyzer.
Big nasty-looking thing it was, too, obviously designed for major juice
flow. I've always wondered why my hand-held multimeter can measure some
rather high AC amperage but no more than minor DC amperage (milliamps).
Maybe someone would like to explain that...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 16:02:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

At 02:45 AM 8/23/96 +0000, you wrote:
>That's great Robert, thanks now I know the specs when JM cam question come up.
>
>I remember seeing this catalogue once. Does it still have the description
according to Joe, 
>what the cam works best with or what it will need inoder for the cam to
work (i.e stall 
>converters, headers, head work...)? I remember it saying that the JM16-18
was works with good 
>the street racer and works w/ the stock converter. What does it mention
about the JM18-20 and 
>JM20-22?
>
> 
>Regards
>Fernando Proietto
>
Fernando,

Mondello's comments about the JM-18-20:  Spicy street cam with lots of
torque, 1000-5500 rpm range, semi-smooth idle, recommended using Edelbrock
Performer Manifold and Holly Carburetor, NO - high stall torque converter,
YES - head work & headers, and NO - 3.41 or lower gears.

Mondello's comments about the JM-20-22:  Semi-hot street cam with great
power and torque, 1400-6000 rpm range, semi-rough idle, recommended using
Edelbrock Performer Manifold and Holly Carburetor, YES - high stall torque
converter, YES - head work & headers, and YES - 3.41 or lower gears.

I am presently running the JM-20-22, I have a stock torque converter, stock
(cast iron) intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and a Q-jet carburetor.  It
runs excellent with this set-up, my 455 really came to life!

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 01:30:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Stuff

Robert Whitaker wrote:
> I am presently running the JM-20-22, I have a stock torque converter, stock
> (cast iron) intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and a Q-jet carburetor.  It
> runs excellent with this set-up, my 455 really came to life!
> 

Robert,
	are you running and auto trans and what gears do you have? How about 
your 
heads any work to them?

- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 19:33:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> > On the DC VOLTS range.  Don't try this on OHMS!
> 
> Actually I did this once by mistake (tried to check voltage with the
> meter switched to Ohms); fortunately all it did was recharge the half
> dead battery in the meter. Lucky me.  :-)

Yup.  Lucky you.  This would be more of a problem with an analog meter 
than a digital (no meter movement).  In an analog, if you peg the meter 
rapidly you run the risk of bending the needle.  Bend it too much and it 
will never zero.

> I've always wondered why my hand-held multimeter can measure some
> rather high AC amperage but no more than minor DC amperage (milliamps).
> Maybe someone would like to explain that...

If memory serves, AC has to be rectified to DC to drive the meter so it's 
"sampled" differently than DC.  Both are then sampled through the meter's 
internal shunts.  Since the internal shunts for general use have to be 
rather small (to fit inside), larger extermal shunts are available when 
needed.

And now, for the rebuttal, here's Spud...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 19:35:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Condensors, Was: Thanks Folks

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> So to recap (again), I apparently have two experts here who don't agree
> with each other but both agree with me. Maybe I should run for office.

How about President?  We could use another option.
 
> Another question to toss out here: So the coil fires when the magnetic
> field collapses when the primary shuts off. Does it not also do 
> something similar when the field sets up (i.e. when the primary is 
> switched _on_)? In other words, I thought from what I learned years ago 
> that the pulse produced in the secondary which fires the plugs is 
> caused by changes in the magnetic field, either "on" or "off". Details?

Not without the schematic and my trusty HP calculator.  I still have 
teethmarks on my ass from the last one.   :o

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 15:50:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter 

>Yup.  Lucky you.  This would be more of a problem with an analog meter 
>than a digital (no meter movement).  In an analog, if you peg the meter 
>rapidly you run the risk of bending the needle.

It is an analog, but the needle seems to be damped a little somehow so
it never whacks the peg too hard.

>Bend it too much and it will never zero.

Heh. Speaking of this, I had a helluva time trying to set the dwell on
the old '72 when I couldn't get the analyzer needle to move past about
1 o'clock on the dial. Finally examined the meter and noticed a tiny,
hairy leg sticking out of the meter at the base of the needle. A spider
had crawled into the analyzer and died there, and one leg was hooked
around the base of the needle. Got it out with some dismantling. Yuck.

>Since the internal shunts for general use have to be 
>rather small (to fit inside), larger extermal shunts are available when 
>needed.
>
>And now, for the rebuttal, here's Spud...

The gentleman who set his car on fire?  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 13:03:48 -0300
Subject: '68 Convertable Top Repair 

Hello,
  On my '68 442 Convertable I have 2 spots on my top that I'd like to fix up 
if possible.  One is at the base of the rear glass window, at the bottom 
corner, on the driver's side.  The heat seal that seals the top to the glass 
has broken open; it runs from the corner along the bottom of the glass.  I'd 
say it's about a 3-4 inch opening.  Does anyone know of anyway to reseal this 
so water can't get into there.  I was told to use WELDBOND adhesive, but it 
just gave way because of the tension of the top, and made a big mess too that 
I just had to clean up.  If there is anyway to re-heat seal it with an iron 
or something, I'd sure like to know, because I'm pretty sure that an adhesive 
is just going to eventually stretch out and break free.  The other spot is on 
the top of the roof, above the back seat driver's side 1/4 window, right 
where the top folds back when you put it down.  On either side, on the 
exterior of the top, there are small metal triangular shaped trim pieces that 
are at the ends of a vinal strip that runs from side to side on the top (WOW, 
this is a long discription).  The triangular trim piece on the driver's side 
has cut through the first layer of the top.  I was told that this was because 
it was screwed down too tightly in the factory (original top).  Does anyone 
know if there is anyway I can take off the trim piece (well, I know I can 
take it off, but . . .) and put another piece of material underneath it to 
keep water out and make it look decent?  And if so, what kind of material 
should I use?  I'd also kinds like to attach the new piece of material to the 
top in order to totally seal it off, is this possible?

  ONE FINAL QUESTION - I am planning on replacing all of the weather 
stripping.  Should I replace the top at the same time?  It's in really good 
shape besides the two problems I described above.  Also, what should I do 
first - Replace the weather stripping and (maybe) top, or paint the car?  I'm 
not sure which order these steps should be done in.


                                                   Thanks for your time,
                                                    Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 19:54:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

     Fernando,
     
        Thanks for the info on the trunk light.  I must be missing that 
     rod.  I will keep an eye out at shows and junk yards to see exactly 
     where it goes in the plastic retainer.  If I can't find a replacement, 
     I could probably fabricate a reasonable facimile.
     
        As far as the tabs on the seats, I used the shoulder harness clips 
     to illustrate what I was talking about in my original posting.  The 
     convertibles of this vintage didn't have shoulder harnesses, to my 
     knowledge.  The pocket is too "thick" to hold a belt anyway.  In 
     addition, I see no way that a shoulder harness could have been 
     anchored up high, like on the seat or just rearward of the door.



     Brett Chaveriat                brett@actel.com 
     Arlington Hts, IL
     
     '72 Cutlass Supreme convt  
     
     

______________________________ Forward Header 
__________________________________
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at SMTPlink-Actel
Date:    8/23/96 11:15 AM


Brett,
 the trunck light grounds to the chassis through the clip on the fixture. The
way the light works 
is with a metal cam or rod that act as a gate. The light needs to be place on 
the pillar in the truck on 
the drivers side. It should be placed in such a matter that when the lid is 
opened the the lid hinge 
contacts the little rod sticking out of the light fixture. The rod contacts 
the 
light thus grounding it. 
If there is no rod like think when a bend on it then you missing that part and 
the light won't work 
without it.
     
Your other question was answered some time ago, concerning those plastic tabs. 
I
think some one said they 
are used to harness the front shoulder belts asin the hardtops there was aclip 
on the foor, On 
convertibles they used the tabs on the rear seats. 
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto
     

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 20:30:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Mult-Meter

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> >And now, for the rebuttal, here's Spud...
> 
> The gentleman who set his car on fire?  :-)

No, SPARKY toasted his car.  Spud toasted of me.   :(

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 17:37:46 -0300
Subject: 68 Top Problems 

Craig,
I salute you for looking to creativity of this group before getting a new
top. My solution would have been to do the top and weatherstripping in 
one go to get it really right. Not sure about your back window fix, you
can get a new one of those w/o a new top. Strongly agree that you won't find a
permanent fix for such a separation, either the material is strong enough to
handle the stress from conv. top stretch or it ain't. As for the top itself, 
it sound s like you maybe in new top territory. Happy to stand corrected from
those smarter than me though.

If you need to talk yourself into new weatherstripping, note that new stuff
will reduce wind noise, water seepage and look better too. 

In the do as I say, not as I do dept:

One of the most logical resto processes I ever heard was:

1) engine/suspension/drivetrain
2) paint
3) top/interior 

Kind of like building a house where you go from framing to finish work. 
Generally a bad idea to have the cabinets done when you want to rip out
the walls they're attached to....

Hope this helps. Oh, when you do the roof rail rubber, do the doorstripping
too and replace the tarpaper rain seal in the doors and quarter with heavy
mil vinyl or plastic sealed with (what else) duct tape. And clean the water
drain channels in the doors and quarters at the bottoms of each.

chris fair

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 17:49:15 -0300
Subject: Multimeter 

Gotta say, after all that toothbrus* and off-topic blaze, it's great
to see some great real live on topic stuff again! 

Just accentuating the positive.

BTW: took the 98 conv. to lunch, top down on a perfect 78 degree CA
dry day. Nothing quite the noise from an open four barrel at 70mph.
   

Diggin it.
cf

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 19:49:09 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 17:48:03 -0300
Subject: Virtual Olds CD

Anyone have the 800 number handy to get his?  I misplaced
mine.  thanks!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #277
********************************
 
