To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	09/12/96 09:22:34 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #298


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, 12 September 1996    Volume 01 : Number 298


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 02:45:04 -0300
Subject: 67 98 Snub 

Bob Barry,
The 98 trim ring vs. disc snub info is some of the best trivia I've ever 
heard. That is some deep olds knowledge. Dang, you're good. I thought I
knew a bit about 98's.

As a return, I once stopped at library of congress and checked out an
old book on Olds. In 1966 they built a one off in a color called Pasha
Pearl (kind of bamboo). They put in different wood grain and Toro buckets.
Kind of like the 63 98 sport convertibles, but updated. Sure thought it
was cool to see a 98 convertible with Toro buckets. 

Hope that's news for you in good turn.
cf

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 02:54:12 -0300
Subject: Smog Legal Cams? 

Here's a good FAQ question in the era of ever tougher smog regs cross country:

What cam grinds will pass smog regs and still provide good power?

I have an isky that I can look up the grind on which passes smog regs no
problem with the ususal equipment on (air injection, pcv). It is an econo
cam though and I was wondering if I get into the motor, how far can I go
with cam timing and grinds before it goes past the will-pass-smog line?

In my town I must be able to swap back and forth, but it would be cool to
find a cam that's not lumpy, provides good power and still is cool with 
big (loopy) brother.
cf

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 05:33:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Big Alternator 

>I'd have to look at the stamping on top of the unit, but I think, now 
>that you mention it, that it is the 100amp unit. It is definitely for
>commercial use in a limo. That's why I kicked down the extra cash. With
>all the electrical accessories I've added, I'm pretty sure the factory
>didn't contemplate these kinds of loads in 1966. 
>
>I should also add that I run a parallel output wire, probably 4 guage
>to the junction block to keep from overheating the factory smaller 
>wire. Big red thing with beefy terminals to be sure that juice isn't
>frying stuff. 
>
>So, yeah, I think I've got the 100amp unit. But my damn high beams with
>halogens installed still seem to cut out when I run them more than 4 
>minutes at a time. Any ideas on that one?
>cf
>
The headlights are probably overloading thier own circuit breaker.  (It'll
cause them to flash on and off.)  I'd recommend running a relay to your high
beams with a heavier power wire to them, too.  In '66 they weren't
anticipating high load lighting systems, either.  (I'd assume....)  I missed
the rest of the posts on this thread, so I'm just jumping in the middle
here.  I hope I'm not being redundant.
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 04:40:28 -0300
Subject: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert??? 

Hello,
  I was just wondering if anyone out there has heard of anyone, seen any ads, 
or knows where there is a decent '68 442/Cutlass Convertable (even a '69 
Convert) that is being parted out?  Please return a note if you do.

                                                    Thank You,
                                                      Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:55:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Die Cast Models 

I WAS TOLD BY THE COMPANY THAT THEY WOULD BE OUT Sept 1 and you can get them at
Toys R uS for $19.00 dont pay 30 or 40 dollars for them. All the models are
prices at 19.00....

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:57:09 -0300
Subject: RE: 70 Hood info. 



------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:57:59 -0300
Subject: RE: 70 Hood info. 

Only the 70 W-25 hood will go on a 70. The 71-72 will go on both years....

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:25:06 -0300
Subject: Models of '67s?? (Was Re:  Die Cast Models)

> They do have a couple of Olds model kits though.
> 
>  >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
>      >67 Cutlass CS Convertible


But Dave, does *any* company have a plastic model, or die-cast, of the '67?

I have yet to see one... was told once by someone at a swap meet specializing 
in
models that any kits would be from '67, no one is making a '67 Cutlass/442 kit.

:(:(:(:(:(



Tim (Who'll Have to Make Do with the Real Thing) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
 

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 04:30:51 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info.

Robert J. Barry wrote:
> 
> At 06:22 PM 9/11/96 -0400, you wrote:
> [snip]
> >I didn't know that the factory built 445 non 442 Cutlass S's.  Of course
> >the SX was built as a 455.
> 
> Once GM allowed them to, Olds made the L33 2-bbl 455 an option on the
> Cutlass line, up until Feb. of 1970 (so about six months). Then I believe
> the 455 was an option on the '72 Cutlass line, apart from the 442 option
> (which was no longer a separate model). So 1971 would be the only year that
> the 455 was only available in the 442 or SX.
> 
> -----------
> - Bob Barry

Bob,

Do you believe that would include the 4-speed on a 2-barrel 455?  I 
should have qualified that as 1970 of course.  I'm sure that you have a 
direct source.  I'm just curious about this type car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 18:42:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Netscape Question

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> Guys,
> I'm just playing around with Netscape mail for the first hour now and am
> wondering how or if I can config. it to send olds list posts to the news
> part of the program rather than email which gets quite clogged with all
> of the information I enjoy so much.
> 
> It would help me a lot if someone can give me some direction on this
> point. TIA and sorry for the non-olds post.
> cf

Chris,
	not sure I understand your question however, I think the answer 
is no. The olds list is a list server and the new from from a new group. 
Both are e-mail systems but both are handled differently. Basically, you 
can't get there from here. sorry..
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 05:43:22 -0300
Subject: Die cast Model source 

Hi,
  Has anyone checked out the die cast catalog offered by Eastwood?  I have 
one on the way, I'll post a listing about it if there's anything worth while 
in there.

                                                  Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 05:50:13 -0300
Subject: Florida Graveyard (junkyard) - '68 442  

>Hi, 
  One of our members out there was checking out a junkyard for some of us,
 I happened to be one of the requesters (asked for convertable Q-ter panels).
I'm not exactly sure who the person was who went and looked, but could that 
person please write me back and tell me if they went or if they found 
anything?  My computer's been down for a week, I missed a bunch of stuff.

                                                Thank You,
                                                   Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:13:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Axle Bearing

At 15:50 09/11/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>
>Once you remove the brake drum, you can remove the axle by taking off the
>four bolts which hold the axle in place. You will have to rotate the end
>of the axle which has one oversize hole precisely for removing the axle
>bolts. You'll need a socket extension to get at the bolts and possibly a 
slide 
>hammer to remove the axle. I think the bearing is press in.
>
>My experience is only disassembling in search of rear end gears. I have 
>never replace a my own bearings.  Just a caveat.
>cf
>
Just turn the drum around and put it back on the lugs backwards and screw 3
of the lugnuts back on 2-3 turns and use the drum as a slide hammer to get
the axle to pull out of the rearend. Go to the parts store to have new
bearings pressed on-- not to expensive and it goes right the first time!!!

Brad (0-0||||0-0)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 05:12:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Show

jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:
> 
> Yesterday was The St. Louis Archway Oldsmobile Clubs Fun Show '96.  
> I talked my father into showing his 1969 Cutlass Supreme (It didn't take TOO
> much arm twisting!).  He bought it new back in '69, and recently had it
> restored.  It is black with red interior, has the original 325hp 350-4bbl
> engine that he specially ordered back in '69.  

 After I came home yesterday, I pushed my '69
> convertible out of the garage, and degreased the suspension/frame and now I
> am ready to start replacing front suspension parts, and then begin some
> detailing.
> 
> Jeff Zeilmann


Jeff,

You & your father have a nice set of cars.  That going home & just doing 
something to the Olds is my idea of a fine evening/weekend.  The story 
of your father getting his dream Olds is a nice memory.  Those 
situations go to make a car into a family member in no time.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:32:47 -0300
Subject: 'nother one bites the dust/ or Pocket Rocket! (long)

Well, I hauled off my Delta 88 to the foundry today-- it wasn't easy-- it 
only had 66,000 miles on it (and one extraordinarily scrunched up 
driver's side).  Everything seems to be going well with putting the 350 
motor into the '84 Cutlass!  There has only been one problem so far... 
those *!@#$&%^$$!!! at Greene County Rentals rented me a defective 
cherry-picker!  As me and a friend were moving the motor, one of the 
wheels popped off of the sucker, therefore knocking it off balance and 
sending the entire 350 rocket, TH400 tranny, and engine hoist, tumbling 
in my direction!  I managed to catch the load-- at least I slowed it 
down, I'm big, but not that big.  It really only actually fell about 2 
feet to the ground (landing on my leg-- but I'm not hurt).  It bent 
(REALLY bent) the pully, fan, transmission filler tube, and valve cover.  
It looks like I might have gotten lucky though, nothing else seems to be 
hurt.  The motor turns over by hand so I don't think (hope not hope not 
hope not) that the crank was warped.  Besides this incedent (I rented 
another c-p from a REPUTABLE company-- if you are ever in the tri-cities, 
Tennessee area and need to rent anything odd, try East Tenn. Rent-Alls on 
the Bristol Hwy. outside of Johnson City)  everything else seems to be 
going fine on the engine swap.  After I removed the radiator core support 
from the cutlass, both engine and tranny slid right into place.  If 
anybody else does this, use motor mounts for a '78-'80 cutlass with a 350 
in it (frame mount available from dealer).  The transmission tunnel did 
not have to be "massaged" as some people worried, but the crossmember and 
driveshaft are not going to work.  The crossmember is going to be 
modified a little bit by a real good welder I know, and the driveshaft 
will have to be shortened and balanced.  I've got the electrical 
connections set up (the correct way, not the jury-rigged way) and will 
probably be able to actually crank 'er up late today.  I have one big 
question though, I found a '79 or so Cutlass with a 350 in it in a 
junk-yard (good parts car) and the motor looked somewhat smaller than 
my '74 model.  I know that there were 2 different sizes made of the 231, 
was it the same way with the 350?  Is mine not a 350?  Is the motor in 
the parts car not a 350, the motor mounts fit my motor, and the ones from 
the 305 that was originally in the cutlass did not?  They both had the gold 
painted valve-covers (what color did the 307's have (sorry to sound like 
an idiot, but this is only my 2nd olds so far).  Does anybody have any 
measurements that my 350 should conform to (manifolds, valve covers, etc?
Sorry to ramble on so bad, but I've been too busy to write for a few days 
now.

Cheers,
Clayton Pierce
zcwp11@access.ETSU-Tn.Edu




PS.
addition to the buick/olds/f*rd thread
460 huh! I've got a 429 in an old Mercury.  Hard to work on, and I can 
hear that 6-8 mpg motor sucking the gas from here!

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:45:05 -0300 
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info.

From: mefco@sprynet.com

>Dave,
>A 70 hood will not work on a 71 or 72. Therefore, a 71 or 72 hood will not
work
>on your 70.

One of the parts places out of Indiana (Paddock?) had, on its catalog cover,
a picture of a '71 442 Convertible with a '70 Ram Air hood.  To the untrained
eye it was almost passable.  To anyone involved in cutlass's from that
era, its an obvious mix-n-match.

The catalog I remember it on is at least a couple of years old.  I think they
still had the painted fender eybrows but the chromed trim on the leading
edge of the hood.  It also appeared that the '71 center stone shield peice
was intact and that they just left off the '70 hood extension, and cut
the chrome trim off at that spot..

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:58:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 'nother one bites the dust/ or Pocket Rocket! (long) 

>those *!@#$&%^$$!!! at Greene County Rentals rented me a defective 
>cherry-picker!  As me and a friend were moving the motor, one of the 
>wheels popped off of the sucker, therefore knocking it off balance and 
>sending the entire 350 rocket, TH400 tranny, and engine hoist, tumbling 
>in my direction!

Something for which I'm sure they have a disclaimer in the fine print...

Does it make any difference to the stability of those things if you
_pull_ or _push_ to move them around? (Actually I mean whether you
lead with the single support wheel under the engine, or with the two
rear support wheels under the hoist...)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:12:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Netscape Question

Chris Fair wrote:
>
> I'm just playing around with Netscape mail for the first hour now and 
> wondering how or if I can config. it to send olds list posts to the 
> news part of the program rather than email which gets quite clogged 
> with all of the information I enjoy so much.

Chris,

Not sure I understand your problem (I'm running Netscape eMail also).  
You DO know that you can set up additional folders (as I have) to move 
mail from the inbox to where ever for archiving, don't you?  If you need 
additional info, contact me directly or give me a call.

The 66 Toro and Mike

- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "ROB MALLAND" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:23:46 -0300 
Subject: 63 (QTY) 442's for sale in U.S.A. 

Hello, if you are not aware of WWW.traderonline.com go check it out!
They have 63 442's for sale in the U.S.A. Ranging from '67 to 78 and plenty of
W-30's...

Also, for those on the West Coast the "Seattle Times" is now on-line and they
have a few Toro's and 442's in the paper today.


Remember: You can find a rusty trim ring from a '70 442 and build a whole 100
point car around it from part suppliers, but if you have a '73-'77 442 in 99%
condition--you will spend a lifetime getting it to 100 point. (ouch, I'm bitter
this morning !)

Rob Malland '73-442
            '96-Cutlass Supreme



- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:39:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Florida Graveyard (junkyard) - '68 442 

Craig,

That would have been me.  And I apologize, but the Lincoln Log has been 
having air-suspension problems (which I think I've finally gotten 
straightened out) so my travels have been very limited for the last week 
or so.  

SO... I'm now shooting to get back over there Saturday morning to check 
it out.  BTW, Dave P came up with a business card he got at a show 
several years ago with apparently the same address.  Name: Bob Anderson.

Will advise.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:33:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964 (4DHT Holiday Sports Sedan) 

>Well, I was going to, but I've checked at all the auto parts places around
>town here (there's five or six different ones), and nobody can even get one.
>They can get the key & tumbler part, but not the switch.  Anybody else try??

I'm waiting for a callback now from the supplier who provides "older"
electrical parts to my local auto parts place. Stopped by the store
last night; they verified that 1964 was too far back for their in-store
parts book, but gave me the number of the supplier to call the next
morning. Just got off the phone with them just now. A really unflappable
guy with an impenetrable... um, New Jersey accent? (Area code 718) took 
all the details and told me someone would call me back. Assuming they
come up with a part number, they'll ship it to my local place for me.

More news as it develops; no, I'm not going to order it until we all get
coordinated here, verify that no one else finds it first, and Esko gives
me a go-ahead.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:22:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 98/88 Door Fit 

Seconded.  The 88 and 98 were different body styles, one a B the other a C. 
I think these might have been built on one body style starting in the late 
70's or early 80's.

You could take a number of measurements and compare at the boneyard, or 
check the Hollander interchange guide.  Andy, could you look this up?

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- ------------
My vote goes with the guys on this list re the idea of swapping 98 and
88 rear doors. They had some very real body differences but most
of the mech. stuff swaps.
cf

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:31:56 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Needing Mondello info 

$9 isn't too bad for the content.  The latest Car Craft has a catalog 
ordering section.  You might also want to get Dave Smith's catalog (check 
Bryce's web page).  I think mine was $5.  He has some nice cam kits.  Sorry 
to say I haven't ordered anything yet from either, but both can be pricey.  
I would try to buy most of the common items from the typical large, 
national speed shop, with the exception of a cam.  I'm only spending two 
cents here, though!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- --------
I called them today, and requested a catalog.  They want $9.00 bucks for it. 
 Ha!  I only need it for the sole purpose of doing some price and part 
availability comparisons, and to see what they have to offer.  I've heard 
good and bad things about them, but to try to stick ya for nine bucks right 
off the bat is not the way to win customers over.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: eric_b_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:57:32 -0300
Subject: axle bearings (completed)

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     Thanx to all who gave their advice!!
     The work only took me 30 min. and $50. 
     A lot easier than I thought it would be.
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 Deluxe
     Albany, OR
BTW the bearing retainer has to be cut off and the bearing is then hyd pressed 
off. Then the bearing/bearing retainer get pressed on. Don't forgett the inner 
seal!! The jackoff that did this before me did. No wonder the bearing went all 
at once.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:54:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964 

The search is taking some interesting turns.

The supplier called back: They're drawing a blank. If we can come up
with the original GM part number, it may help them look up a cross
reference or superceding number, but otherwise, it does not look good.

For lack of a better idea, I called my local outfit again and got
through to the manager this time. He puts me on musical hold for a
while, then comes back on-line right in the middle of a rousing
chorus of "Crawling from the Wreckage" to tell me that he can't find
a different supplier, but thinks there is a company in Milwaukee that
might have it, as they recently provided something similar to a local
guy who owns another 1964 Olds, he thinks a Super 88. He can't remember
the name of the company, nor the local customer, but says he sees the
guy every Sunday morning at church.

I asked him to forward my number to the Olds owner next Sunday and ask
the guy to call me next week. We'll see what happens.

(Brett Chaveriat, if he's referring to you, please be sure to go to
church next Sunday.  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:12:15 -0300
Subject: axle bearings 

 >>It is held in place by a pressed
>>on collar.  At this point, I take mine to a muffler/brake place, and they
cut
>>off the old collar, press off the old bearing, press on the new bearing,
press
>>on and stake the new collar, you pay, say $30, slide the assembly into the
>>differential, install the four bolts as original, install drum/wheel/lugs
nuts,
>>and VIOLA !!!

Whoa, wait a minute, "stake the new collar"?

That would be quite a feat, hammering on the axel shaft.  Hammering on the
collar would likely start to loosen it.  Leave it alone.  It is a press fit
for a reason.  The interference holds it in place.  The collar should not be
touched until the bearing needs replacement.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs   (407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:12:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Big Alternator

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> So, yeah, I think I've got the 100amp unit. But my damn high beams with
> halogens installed still seem to cut out when I run them more than 4
> minutes at a time. Any ideas on that one?

Cycling off and on?  Or just dies?  If so, what do you do to get them 
back on?

(please show your worksheet, grades will be posted Friday)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:12:04 -0300
Subject: Resto Guides 

>>>>In fact has anyone else seen any books specific to 
>>Oldsmobile on restoration, ie Engine, tranny rebuilding?

>>Jeff Zeilmann
>>SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
>>'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

Um, Jeff, don't you have an Olds Service Manual?

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs   (407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: John & Robin Whitcore <retrotek@phoenixat.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:22:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Seeking books recommendation...

Robert J. Barry wrote:

> 
> No, just an arm and a couple of toes. I had mine leak checked and recharged
> (2 1/4 lbs freon) for about $125. The basic check special, with 1 lb. of
> freon added, is $59.95

Man!  That's expensive.  Where the heck did you take it.  We just got
our AC leak checked/repaired and 3lbs freon added - in our Buick.  It
was $30/lb for us and a half hour of labor.  You paid twice as much as
our mechanic gets charged.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:13:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 98/88 Door Fit 

>Seconded.  The 88 and 98 were different body styles, one a B the other a C. 
>I think these might have been built on one body style starting in the late 
>70's or early 80's.
>
>You could take a number of measurements and compare at the boneyard, or 
>check the Hollander interchange guide.  Andy, could you look this up?

(Andy is sitting at his desk staring off into space and idly picking
his nose as if waiting for a stoplight to change...)

What? Huh? Me? Um, yeah, I can do that, but what year were we talking
about again? I was, er, distracted by other things...

(flips pages like mad...)

Well, my book only goes back to the early '70's, but all the listed
Olds rear doors show the same thing: '88 and '98 are broken out to
different listings. In fact, the only rear doors shown as sharable at
all seem to be for station wagons, across brand lines (e.g. 2336). 
Doesn't look good...

The sharing of front ends (same platform) between 88 and 98 started
much earlier than the late '70's. I know the '73 is the same up front; 
only the rear quarters and taillights are different, which is where 
our problems seem to be: in either the door profile or the skin contour,
which varies depending on which rear quarter panel is used.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:22:49 -0300
Subject: Die Cast Models

Stopped by the local Wal-Mart last night and picked up a die cast model of
a 1970 442 convertible.  It is made by a company called Playing Mantis and 
is part of their Johnny Lightning series.  This is also part of their Indy 500
Championship Collection featuring limited edition pace cars.  There are two
cars per package: the pace car and race winner.  The olds looks pretty 
realistic
except that mine is in lime green (Wow!) even though the included picture 
shows it in white and gold.  You guys would be a much better judge at how
authentic they made it, but it looks pretty cool to me.  If anyone finds it in
white, or any other colors, I'd be interested.  The cars cost me $4.96.

The back of the package also lists that they made these for the 1974 Hurst
Olds and the 1977 Olds Delta 88.  I did not see these at the store though.

Happy shopping
- -Rick

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:20:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Big Alternator 

>> So, yeah, I think I've got the 100amp unit. But my damn high beams with
>> halogens installed still seem to cut out when I run them more than 4
>> minutes at a time. Any ideas on that one?

Yeah, your problem is elsewhere, not with an alternator running out of
breath. For some reason you're tripping the circuit breaker in your 
headlight switch -- I assume they come back on again after a bit -- so
you want to check your wiring, grounds, etc. for a partial short. Try
looking at the headlamps themselves, see if one is suspiciously dim and
check its wiring.

As others have said, halogens take less power than original tungstens,
not more, and if the alternator was overloaded they'd just get dim anyhow.

Now, if you've gone and swapped in aircraft landing lights or something,
maybe there is a problem there... :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:31:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> ...but thinks there is a company in Milwaukee that might have it, as 
> they recently provided something similar to a local guy who owns 
> another 1964 Olds, he thinks a Super 88. 

Sparky lives in Milwaukee but he's on a mini-vacation right now (actually 
when up to the farm to strip a donor-Toro).  Maybe he knows something 
about this place.

Since Sparky's a funeral director there, he prolly knows the pastor.  
What's the name of the church?  

"Dear St Anthony, please come around, 
a switch is fried and can't be found"

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:38:44 -0300
Subject: Parts: '70 Delta 88 seats, doors, etc 

I've come across a light green 4dr '70 Delta 88 at the bone yard.  Seats 
are green, but in perfect shape, front and rear (even the plastic covering 
is perfect except for some rips on driver's seat).  Front driver door and 
read pass. door are pretty good also.  This car is a nice specimen, can get 
the parts cheap.  I'm just looking for it's parts to find a good home, not 
make a bundle of money!

I also have a tissue dispenser (Rocket emblem is gone though), and gas tank 
vapor condensor for sale (w/ original hoses for those 1000 point cars).

Anyone interested, let me know.  I'm in Illinois.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:05:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Models of '67s?? (Was Re:  Die Cast Models) 

At 09:25 AM 9/12/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>> They do have a couple of Olds model kits though.
>> 
>>  >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
>>      >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
>
>
>But Dave, does *any* company have a plastic model, or die-cast, of the '67?
>
>I have yet to see one... was told once by someone at a swap meet
specializing in
>models that any kits would be from '67, no one is making a '67 Cutlass/442 
kit.
>
>:(:(:(:(:(
>
I saw a plastic model of a 67 pro-street Cutlass at Carlisle. The guy who
had didn't want much for it. I don't remember who made it, but I have the
guy's phone number and could get more info for you if you were interested. I
remember that I didn't want it because it had a built in hood scoop or
something like that so it couldn't be made to look like a regular 67 without
a lot of work. Apparently, this company re-released this kit so it's value
wasn't real high to a collector (which I'm not anyway).

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:58:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964 

>> ...but thinks there is a company in Milwaukee that might have it, as 
>> they recently provided something similar to a local guy who owns 
>> another 1964 Olds, he thinks a Super 88. 
>
>Sparky lives in Milwaukee but he's on a mini-vacation right now (actually 
>when up to the farm to strip a donor-Toro).  Maybe he knows something 
>about this place.
>
>Since Sparky's a funeral director there, he prolly knows the pastor.  
>What's the name of the church?

No, no, the church is in Arlington Heights, IL, along with the '64 Olds
owner; only the company that found the obscure part for him is up there
in Milwaukee...

Speaking of companies elsewhere, I just got a Summit catalog in the mail
for no apparent reason. Made for fun reading, but I dunno how they got
my address; I mean, even J.C. Whitney gave up on me _years_ ago...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:05:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Models of '67s?? (Was Re:  Die Cast Models) 

At 09:25 AM 9/12/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>> They do have a couple of Olds model kits though.
>> 
>>  >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
>>      >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
>
>
>But Dave, does *any* company have a plastic model, or die-cast, of the '67?
>
>I have yet to see one... was told once by someone at a swap meet
specializing in
>models that any kits would be from '67, no one is making a '67 Cutlass/442 
kit.
>
>:(:(:(:(:(
>
I saw a plastic model of a 67 pro-street Cutlass at Carlisle. The guy who
had didn't want much for it. I don't remember who made it, but I have the
guy's phone number and could get more info for you if you were interested. I
remember that I didn't want it because it had a built in hood scoop or
something like that so it couldn't be made to look like a regular 67 without
a lot of work. Apparently, this company re-released this kit so it's value
wasn't real high to a collector (which I'm not anyway).

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:12:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info. 

At 12:14 AM 9/11/96 -0300, you wrote:

> I'm in the process of
>looking for a  W-30 hood and need to know which year W-30 hoods are the
>same as my 70'? I've heard that the 70'-72's are all the same. I look
>forward to the good info and advice I'll get on this list!
>
>Dave Holgate
>(am435@detroit.freenet.org)
> 

Hi Dave,

Nice car, I just tried to buy one myself but bid too low unfortunatly!

Must be your lucky day though, I was just checking the Tradin Times here and
there is an ad for a an original fiberglass factory 1970 Ram Air hood. He's
asking $500 for it, an excellent price IMO. It's in Willougby, OH just a
little east of Cleveland, not too far of a drive from Detroit. The phone
number is (216) 951-7370 days.

Now if I can just find one for my '72 Damn it!


 
J. Todd Hall                         
Cleveland, OH       
1972 4-4-2        

"If you ever drop your keys into a river of molten lava, let'em go, 
 because, man, they're gone." 
                                    

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:25:22 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 98/88 Door Fit 

Sorry.  Thanks for checking.  The year was '67.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- -----------
>You could take a number of measurements and compare at the boneyard, or 
>check the Hollander interchange guide.  Andy, could you look this up?

(Andy is sitting at his desk staring off into space and idly picking
his nose as if waiting for a stoplight to change...)

What? Huh? Me? Um, yeah, I can do that, but what year were we talking
about again? I was, er, distracted by other things...

(flips pages like mad...)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:26:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Resto Guides

Bob,

>>>>In fact has anyone else seen any books specific to
>>Oldsmobile on restoration, ie Engine, tranny rebuilding?

<<Um, Jeff, don't you have an Olds Service Manual?

Indeed I do.  But I am also looking for something supplemental to it. 
 Although the Service Manual is very detailed, It NEVER hurts to have 
additional sources of reference.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:26:30 -0300
Subject: RE: Alternator conversion 

>When I convert to an internally regulated alterantor, what kind of car do I
>need to get one from? 

I think Cutlasses went internal in 70 or 71...one from that year (with the same
engine size) should work fine.

> I need a core, too, I guess.  I want to get a new one
>at the local parts-monger store (probably Pep Boys).  I don't want to pay a
>core charge for an old one (unless, of course, it costs more to buy a core
>than to pay the core charge).

it doesn't matter where you get the core from or what it looks like, or at
least it doesn't around here...




Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/index.html 
cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader, 1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973  
Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X, 1955 Cadillac Seville, 1969  
Cadillac DeVille Convertibles (2), 1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham
1961 Imperial Custom, 1973 Buick Riviera                                     

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:38:43 -0300
Subject: Engine weight 

I'm going to be pulling the engine out of the 442 again so I can finish
detailing the engine compartment and engine. I need to buy an engine stand
and wanted to know which one to buy. What's the ballpark weight of an Old's
350, how bought the 455? 
I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where
the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of
these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?

Anyone got a cherry-picker I can borrow? ;)



J. Todd Hall                         
Cleveland, OH       
1972 4-4-2        

"If you ever drop your keys into a river of molten lava, let'em go, 
 because, man, they're gone." 
                                    

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:45:44 -0300
Subject: Netscape 

Mike & Fenando,
Thanks for your replies, looks like the answer is I can't treat email
like a netnews. Mike, thanks for the tip on folders, I figgerd that
out pretty quick after firing n'scape up, was just wondering if there
was a way to auto set n'scape to put my olds mail in one place and
work in another.

Sorry for the non-olds post! But, uh, I did drive the 98 conv. on
a great 68 degree day with the top down to work this a.m. and it 
ran o.k.!
cf

------------------------------

From: RBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:56:27 -0300
Subject: Advice on Delta?

     I am new to the list and would like to take this opportunity to 
     introduce myself, my cars and ask for some advice.  I have a '74 Delta 
     88 Royale Conv., '71 442 and a '72 442 Conv. (my first car/kept 
     through blood, sweat and tears)
     
     The real question is on the Delta; to make a long story long...
     Background - This car sort of fell into my hands last fall.  It was my 
     wife's grandfather's and given to her father upon the grandfather's 
     death.  Not driven much and sat out for ten years; (much to my 
     dismay!)  Given to her brother, who drove it a while (with a cracked 
     exhaust manifold!) till his job transfer last fall.  He was only going 
     to get a couple hundred for it the shape it was in (really rough) and 
     it was likely to be headed for the boneyard w/44K on the clock!  I 
     pulled the heads, drilled and tapped the multiple broken ex.manifold 
     bolts, put in new valve seals, repainted it stock gold and put on 
     chrome valve covers that I had around.  
     
     Anyway, I fixed it up and am driving it as a daily driver to minimize 
     depreciation of other cars and for fun.  I travel 100 miles per day 
     and have tuned it to max. poss. and am getting 15mpg (no surprise 
     w/smog heads and stock cam - that trough of gas in the middle of the 
     road would great for me).  I REALLY enjoy this car on the highway and 
     have surprised many so-called "sporty" new cars.  I am now going to 
     put this car on the market due to "dilution of resources - no $" while 
     simultaneously incurring the wrath of my wife and daughter who love 
     this land yacht.  I am seeking advice on how much to ask (fair market 
     value).
           
     Details: '74 Delta 88 Royale Conv. burgundy w/blk top, 350,4V, 60K 
     miles  straight & never hit.  New items include conv.top, dual 
     exhaust, tires, carb, radiator, water pump, brake master 
     cylinder/pads, shocks, pinion seal etc.  Has a bad re-paint  
     (oxidized)and some rust in rear quarters, (I did a "good" bondo job if 
     there is such a thing, after cutting out rust and treating w/ 
     Eastwood's metal conversion and primer).  Chrome is somewhat pitted 
     (headlight bezel and door handles).  
     
     Overall a very nice car at a glance and an excellent trouble-free 
     driver.  I was thinking 3 to 4K.  Any thoughts anybody?
     
     Questions on other topics and cars will follow.  This message is long 
     enough! sorry
     
     Bob Braden / OCA#?
     rbraden@qualitybio.com
     '71 442 coupe
     '72 442 conv. 
     '74 88  conv.

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:41:31 -0300
Subject: FW: axle bearings

Yeah,Bob, it is an interference fit. I apologise for the poor choice of
terms.(stake vs. press) ...I was in kind of a hurry...but I did get the first 
11
steps right !  

Frank Boerger


 >>It is held in place by a pressed
>>on collar.  At this point, I take mine to a muffler/brake place, and they
cut
>>off the old collar, press off the old bearing, press on the new bearing,
press
>>on and stake the new collar, you pay, say $30, slide the assembly into the
>>differential, install the four bolts as original, install drum/wheel/lugs
nuts,
>>and VIOLA !!!

>Whoa, wait a minute, "stake the new collar"?

>That would be quite a feat, hammering on the axel shaft.  Hammering on the
>collar would likely start to loosen it.  Leave it alone.  It is a press fit
>for a reason.  The interference holds it in place.  The collar should not be
>touched until the bearing needs replacement.

>Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
>'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
>Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
>U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs   (407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:51:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 98/88 Door Fit 

>Seconded.  The 88 and 98 were different body styles, one a B the other a C. 
>I think these might have been built on one body style starting in the late 
>70's or early 80's.

damn, does that mean a fender off of a 71 or 72 88 won't fit my 72 98?

what fenders _will_ fit on a '72 98? I need one bad, preferably with cornering
lamps.

thanks


Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/index.html 
cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader, 1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973  
Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X, 1955 Cadillac Seville, 1969  
Cadillac DeVille Convertibles (2), 1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham
1961 Imperial Custom, 1973 Buick Riviera                                     

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:48:02 -0300
Subject: Anyone remember Auto World? (Was Re: Models of '67s??) 

>I remember that I didn't want it because it had a built in hood scoop or
>something like that so it couldn't be made to look like a regular 67 without
>a lot of work. Apparently, this company re-released this kit so it's value
>wasn't real high to a collector (which I'm not anyway).

Does anyone remember a mail-order place called Auto World in 
Scranton, PA? They sold both model cars and real car parts, in 
separate catalogs. I found a 1968 model car catalog a while ago 
in the basement of my parents' house. Jeez, paging through that 
thing brought back some memories... Is that outfit still around?

If I can find that catalog again this weekend it might show who 
was making '67 442 kits back then, too...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:56:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 98/88 Door Fit 

>damn, does that mean a fender off of a 71 or 72 88 won't fit my 72 98?

No, I think it should fit your car. The '73's do (1676A (with cornering
lights) or 1676B (without)). No listings for '71 or '72 in my book, but
visually they were pretty much the same as the '73's, IMHO.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:17:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Netscape

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> Mike & Fenando,
> Thanks for your replies, looks like the answer is I can't treat email
> like a netnews.

Nope.

> Sorry for the non-olds post! But, uh, I did drive the 98 conv. on a 
> great 68 degree day with the top down to work this a.m. and it ran 
> o.k.!

Fair :) enough!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:52:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight

You can also put nylon belts used to lift heavy machinery around the engine.
Very soft surface and won't scratch the engine. Don't got a cherry-picker,
but do have my dad's 94 Chevy towtruck with a hydraulic boom. Very nice for
pulling engines and putting them in. Don't think he will let you borrow it
though:)

At 01:38 PM 9/12/96 -0300, Todd Hall wrote:
>I'm going to be pulling the engine out of the 442 again so I can finish
>detailing the engine compartment and engine. I need to buy an engine stand
>and wanted to know which one to buy. What's the ballpark weight of an Old's
>350, how bought the 455? 
>I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where
>the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of
>these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?
>

________________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Grad Student in Sports Administration at Kent State University
1988 Iroc Z/28	1974 Buick Riveria Stage I 455
1980 4-4-2 W-30	1975 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:52:22 -0300
Subject: Re: 63 (QTY) 442's for sale in U.S.A. 

I know exactly what you are saying. I had to go buy a parts car in Michigan,
300 miles away just to get a few useable parts for my 75 H/O. It is geting
better though. I occasionally see a 73-33 part in those catalogs. 

>Remember: You can find a rusty trim ring from a '70 442 and build a whole 100
>point car around it from part suppliers, but if you have a '73-'77 442 in 99%
>condition--you will spend a lifetime getting it to 100 point. (ouch, I'm 
bitter
>this morning !)
>
>Rob Malland '73-442
>            '96-Cutlass Supreme

________________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Grad Student in Sports Administration at Kent State University
1988 Iroc Z/28	1974 Buick Riveria Stage I 455
1980 4-4-2 W-30	1975 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: a.riisager@lycke.lhc.se (Anders Riisager)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:06:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Manual problem - In Sweden

On Sun, 8 Sep 1996 09:30:15 -0300, you wrote:

Well that can I understand. But do you remember  in what place you
bought it ? Or can you think it be potability to copy those side fore
handling about Oldsmobile 350 5,7 Diesel  engine motors.  
Of course should a pay fore our work whit it. But if you don't have
easy to find  a copy engine then i think the copy work will be fore
expendability. 
So the best way I think are ware can I find a great book like you4r ?

Well. in Sweden is it raining now and the sun are hiding behind the
clouds. And my nice care are standing in the garage and feels sorry.

A have drive lots of cars, from the east stat cars Lada to the english
Jaguar and Italian Lambortgini Espada. But never i have feel so
comfortably sense I bought my Olds Cutlass, and I really like the
ground power from the Diesel. 

But I start wonder why their is so little E-mailpost about diesel
engine. In two week I4ve got 2300 letters but only 8 have handling
about diesel.  Only you have answer to my letter.
Have you a idea why ?

Many Greatings
Anders Riisager // Sweden

>I have a 1979 repair manual which has all of the production motors detailed
>in it. I would be happy to help, but I can't give up the manual.
>
>
>Katana 72                    It's NOT your fater's Oldsmobile     Hastings,
>MN, USA
>
>

***************************
* Anders Riisager         * 
* Lycke Vdstergerd        * 
* S440 33  HARESTAD       *
* Sweden                  * 
* a.riisager@lycke.lhc.se *
*************************** 

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:10:42 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Axle Bearing 

          Here's a trick for getting the axles out of a Type-O rear 
          end.  Once you remove the four bolts holding the axle 
          retainer to the housing, place the brake drum back over the 
          wheel studs outboard side in.  Loosely thread the lug nuts 
          back on, flat side in, until the end of the stud just 
          reaches the edge of the nut (ie, the nut is completely 
          threaded onto the stud, but no further).  Now use the brake 
          drum as a slide hammer to pull the axle out.  Prepare for 
          90W gear oil to dribble out of the end of the axle tube.
          
          I usually just take the axle shaft to a machine shop to have 
          the bearing R&R'd, as I don't have a press or the proper 
          puller.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:20:46 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 70 Hood info. 

          
One of the parts places out of Indiana (Paddock?) had, on its catalog cover, a 
picture of a '71 442 Convertible with a '70 Ram Air hood.  To the untrained 
eye 
it was almost passable. 

        They had to have butchered the 71 grilles, because the grilles 
        stick up past the forward edge of the hood.  The 71-72 W-25 
        hoods (and stock metal hoods as well) have notches in their 
        leading edges to clear the grilles.  The 70 hood (fiberglass or 
        metal) will not close and latch with the stock 71-72 grilles in 
        place.
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30
        (former owner of 71 and 72 442s)

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:21:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Advice on Delta?

At 01:56 PM 9/12/96 -0300, RBraden@qualitybio.com wrote:

>     Overall a very nice car at a glance and an excellent trouble-free 
>     driver.  I was thinking 3 to 4K.  Any thoughts anybody?
>     

Bob,

Sounds like a nice car.  Too bad you have to sell it.  

As a point of reference, I bought my '75 Delta 88 convertible
in March of 1994, and I paid $4700 for it.  It was a Florida
car, so it had zero rust, but it did have 95,000 miles on
it, which is considerably more than yours.  The paint job
was very nice (I've had it in parades), but it needed a new
top, which I had put on.  The old one was torn in a couple
of places, and I wanted to start life with it with a new one.

If you're car is no worse than, say, a 20-footer, I'd say you
were justified in trying to get something in the $3500 range.
What you have going for you is the new top and low miles.
What you have against you is the condition of the body and
paint, which is what will make the impression on the buyer.

Good luck.


Dan


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:29:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight 

I'm going to be pulling the engine out of the 442 again so I can finish 
detailing the engine compartment and engine. I need to buy an engine stand 
and wanted to know which one to buy. 
        
        Go for the heavy duty unit.  I had a 455 short block on 
        one of the cheap ones and the front caster buckled while 
        trying to move it, dumping the motor on the ground.  Big 
        wheels and large diameter, thick wall tubing.

What's the ballpark weight of an Old's 350, how bought the 455?

        Somewhere between 600 and 700 lbs.
         
I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where 
the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of 
these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?

          I've always been scared of these, given the number of times 
          I've had to put Heli-coils in the carb bolt holes of 
          aluminum intakes.  A better choice is one of the adjustable 
          engine lifters, which bolts to the diagonally opposite 
          corners of the engine and uses a screw mechanism to adjust 
          the tilt of the engine.  This is invaluable when 
          reinstalling the engine, especially if you are putting it in 
          with the trans attached
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          
          

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:40:17 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 98/88 Door Fit 

I would check Hollander (many yards have them), and measure, measure, 
mearure!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- -----------

damn, does that mean a fender off of a 71 or 72 88 won't fit my 72 98?

what fenders _will_ fit on a '72 98? I need one bad, preferably with cornering
lamps.

thanks

Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu

------------------------------

From: "ROB MALLAND" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:35:34 -0300 
Subject: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442

Hi, this is an unsolicited message about 1973 Cutlass and 442's.
(I was so impatient for '73 stuff I had to write some for myself !!)

    1973 offered the Cutlass,Cutlass "S"(sport), and Cutlass Supreme.
Basic body styles only differed in the "Supreme" with it's rectangular shaped
1/4 panel windows and the Cutlass/Cutlass"S" with a triangle shaped 1/4 panel
windows. The interior is slightly different for "Supreme" vs. the other two
models.(door panel trim, emblems, ect.) 

The 442 option was coded: W-29.  It was a $120.00 package. It was not availble
on the "Supreme".  This W-29 option gave you Emblems, H.D. suspension, blacked
out grille, Special hood with louvers, and stripes down the hood, fenders, 1/4
panels,and trunk lid.
<<< 9,797 442's were built in '73 >>> (251 cutlass's and 9,546 Cutlass "S")???
Engines offered for 1973: 250/6cyl.???
                          350 2bbl.
                          350 4bbl.
                          455 2bbl.
                          455 4bbl.

Tranny's:   TH350 (250/350ci only)
            Th400 (455 only)

Rear Axle (Factory):2.73   Anti-Spin availble on ALL axles
                    3.08
                    3.23    
                    3.42
  
A Hurst/Olds was offered in 1973 with a first ever color choice of
Black/Gold_or_White/Gold.
The code was W-45.
The running gear was ONLY a 455 4bbl. with TH400. and posi (3.42 a/c or 3.23
non a/c)
Codes were: L-77 455/400/3.23 (non a/c)
            L-75 455/400/3.08 (a/c)
This H/O was basicly a 442 with the exception of the 1/4 panel windows which
were "opera" style (kinda square-ish, and very small) with a H/O decal in them.
The basic 442 hood had a fiberglass "bubble" of louvers riveted on the hood
which put the louvers aprox. 1" above the rest of the hood. The area around the
tail lights were "blacked out" and you got the rest of the usual H/O emblems
around the car. Chrome tailpipes were cool. Of special interest was the new
spring loaded hood emblem "H/O".
<<< 1,097 of these H/O cars were built in 1973 >>>

Availble options (only "neat" ones listed here): color-keyed SIII(SSII still
availble),, Sunroof, Wide-ratio 4-speed, SWIVEL-BUCKETS, Anti-Spin axle,
color-keyed dual side sport mirrors, mini console, sports console.

I have no idea how many regular Cutlass,Cutlass"S", and "supreme's" they made
for 1973.
(DRKSOLE,did I do alright? let me know if you have more info.)

Please E-mail me back if any info is wrong/missing.
Rob Malland
Tacoma,WA.    '73-442

- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@clic.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:51:11 -0300
Subject: Q-Jet Books:

After following Bob Handrens very detailed instructions on how to obtain the " 
$15.00 
worth of gold on the Q-jet" it has arrived.  LOTS of stuff.  Cost to me was 
$15.00 U.S. 
(+ exchange + 3.50 for the money order) about $ 24.00 CDN.  An interesting 
point, 
looking at the postage that they paid $ 28.04 U.S. they are not making money 
on this.

Here is a general break down on what is included in this package:

- - Carburetor Parts History 
- - Carburation New/Reman. carburetors, carb kits and parts
- - Fuel injection complete units, kits and components
- - Mechanical Carburetors
	Fundamentals
	Monojet
	Twojet
	Varajet
	Dualjet
	Quadrajet
- - Parts and Service Manual (covers all models)

All this came in a box 12x10x10.5 (Full), unfortunately I did not order the 
hardcover 
binder ($36.00) so I'll have to try to keep it all in order until I find some 
way to 
organize it.  

I have another Manuals order form (two came when I ordered it) if anyone is 
interested, 
or you can order it directly from AC-Delco at the following:

	AC-Delco
	35000 Industrial Road 
	Livonia, MI 48150-1250

and "Request Manuals order Form MO 970."  After that arrives, order PN 9XC for 
the 
contents only or order PN 9X for the $36.00 in hardcover binder.

Thanks again Bob Handren, lots of reading ahead.

Joe McCall

------------------------------

From: DESIMONEP@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:59:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info 

Well, I just finished a 383 Che** motor that cost me about $12,000.00. It is
very streetable, makes horsepower by increasing stroke and a little bore not
by super or turbo charging. It has a roller cam, roller lifters, roller
rocker arms, forged crank and other goodies easy and cheaper to get for that
genre of engine.

I would like to build a 455 mostly for street cruising, and operation in the
lower RPM range. My budget for this motor is ~ $12,000.00. I want it to look
externally, as close to possible to stock, for the smog police we have out
here in California. (The smog laws are getting tougher here all the time, and
my current philosophy is to lean towards compliance, and work within the laws
to achieve my performance goals. I think it will be easier and CHEAPER in the
long run!) I am counting on extensive machine work inside and on the heads to
make the engine run as strong and RELIABLE as possible. This is my daily
driver, I really love this car, it's everything I always wanted in a car, and
to my suprise it's an Oldsmobile!! I'm a definite convert!

When I purchased the car, it had a 403 in it, the 4A block we were talking
about previously, so I dont know if it could have come with a 455 originally?
1968 Cutlass "S". My research so far indicates it probably came with a 350,
but all the CA smog info I've found indicates that a 455 was an option for
68. Probably the larger cars had a 455, not the Cutlass, but the CA smog
books don't break 1968 down into models, just the year. (Is it possible to
have ordered a 68 Cutlass with a 455 from the dealer or factory???) I need to
prove to the smog guys that a 455 "COULD" have come in the car that year!

Thanks for any help, you guys are a wealth of knowledge and experience. In
fact, I've been able to get many of my local car friends on the computer
because of all the car info on here, and other newsgroups. (But this list is
the only one I subscribe to, I seem to have lost interest in my Che**'s, the
more and more I drive my Olds!!)

Phil De Simone
desimonep@aol.com
1968 Olds Cutlass "S" Convertible


In a message dated 96-09-11 23:59:17 EDT, you write:

> << Well, I'm about to go feet first into a 455 project motor, are you
saying
>   that Mondello is overpriced and/or hard to deal with? I'd like to know,
>   because I'm needing a block, heads, and other items, and I'm not sure
where
>   to start. This is the first Olds motor I'm doing and would like some
advice.
> 
>   I need a 1968 455 block and (C?) heads. Also, anyone know where I can
find 
> a
>   forged crank? Any advice appreciated!! Thanks,
>    >>
>  Yes Mondello is overpriced.  What type of performance are you looking at.
>  Are you wanting to drag race on a regular basis or just building to cruise
>  and 
>  occasionaly take to the strip for some fun.  The next thing is you need to
>  set 
>  a goal of how fast and how much money you want to spend.  Performance 
>  does equal dollars but there are different stages.  For example, I have 
> spent
>  
>  probably 3000.00 on my engine build, but I run 12.47's at 108.63 mph but 
>  is also streetable.  let me know and I will help you further.
>  
>  W MACHINES
>  72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: DESIMONEP@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:00:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info 

In a message dated 96-09-12 00:16:26 EDT, you write:

> I've heard 
>  good and bad things about them, but to try to stick ya for nine bucks
right 
>  off the bat is not the way to win customers over.  Especially when Year
One, 
> 
>  Kanter, Edelbrock, Brothers, and Fusick all send a free catalog.  And Year

>  One is perhaps the most polite group of people I have ever dealt with.  I
am 
> 
>  open for comments.

I haven't heard of Kanter and Brothers. What Olds parts do they offer, and
does anyone have numbers for them, thanks!!

Phil De Simone
desimonep@aol.com
1968 Olds Cutlass "S" Convertible

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:01:48 -0300
Subject: re: List related, not Olds related

I'm just on digest now, but back when I was on "regular" (?)
I noticed that often messages would show up "out of order"
(ie the reply got to me before the original post did).
I think this was (is) due to the precedence of the mail.
This stuff is sent out as "bulk" precedence.  It's just
like "bulk" mail from the USPS.  Sometimes it gets there
next day, sometimes it takes a month.  

The nice thing about digest is that you see the messages in the 
order they hit the hit the server.  Of course the downer is that
digest is usually around 100k or so and it gets sent out as 
"bulk" also, so once in a while digest number n+1 gets here
before digets number n does... :P


Other list related thing - whats' up with Esko's messages?
I saw a message in there about problems with is service,
but I've seen one of his messages at least 10 times in the
digest.  (about half of them after his "oops" message)
Is it still "echoing" around in the system or what?

- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: Mike_Nicodemus@ccgate.apl.com (Mike Nicodemus)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:59:36 -0300
Subject: Digital dash

     I have an Olds Cutless Supreme 1990.  I curently have 124,000 miles 
     and in excelent condition.  I have one problem.  My digital dash went 
     out at 100,000 miles.  Occasionally it will work but only 25% of the 
     time.  Do you have any suggestions?
     
     Mike Nicodemus
     502-868-3383

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:12:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 'nother one bites the dust/ or Pocket Rocket! (long) 

     The valve covers on a 307 are black.  In fact, everything's black.  
     It's really boring (but easy to find paint for!).  Took about 3 hours 
     to R&R one 307 valve cover gasket 2 weekends ago due to all the 
     wiring, vacuum hoses, air hoses, and brackets over the thing.
     
     That's funny, I thought all olds small blocks were identical from the 
     outside.  From 10 feet away I thought it was impossible to tell a 260 
     from a 403??


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: 'nother one bites the dust/ or Pocket Rocket! (long)
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/12/96 6:49 AM


the 305 that was originally in the cutlass did not?  They both had the gold 
painted valve-covers (what color did the 307's have (sorry to sound like 
an idiot, but this is only my 2nd olds so far).  Does anybody have any 
measurements that my 350 should conform to (manifolds, valve covers, etc? 
Sorry to ramble on so bad, but I've been too busy to write for a few days 
now.
     

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:24:49 -0300
Subject: FW: Re[2]: 70 Hood info.

          
>One of the parts places out of Indiana (Paddock?) had, on its catalog cover, 
>a
picture of a '71 442 Convertible with a '70 Ram Air hood.  To the untrained 
>eye
it was almost passable. 

   >     They had to have butchered the 71 grilles, because the grilles 
    >    stick up past the forward edge of the hood.  The 71-72 W-25 
   >     hoods (and stock metal hoods as well) have notches in their 
   >     leading edges to clear the grilles.  The 70 hood (fiberglass or 
   >     metal) will not close and latch with the stock 71-72 grilles in 
   >     place.

I've got their catalog # P6S1, with the "brown" 442 convertible ( front cover)
w/white stripe running up the hood, and it boy it looks pretty good to me !  I
don't have any training, but this particular car doesn't appear to have a ram
air hood...maybe it was in a different catalog.  They might have found another
car.

Frank Boerger
        

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:24:46 -0300
Subject: FW: Engine weight

At 01:38 PM 9/12/96 -0300, Todd Hall wrote:
>I'm going to be pulling the engine out of the 442 again so I can finish
>detailing the engine compartment and engine. I need to buy an engine stand
>and wanted to know which one to buy. What's the ballpark weight of an Old's
>350, how bought the 455? 

It's a pity I'm not near you...I bought the 3,000 # engine hoist from Sam's 
Club
for $ 199, and it snatched the 350/TH-350 combo from both of my cars with no
problem.  If you can use one enough to justify the purchase, I think it's a 
good
deal.  It even folds up for storage.
Don't have my book handy here at work...if you don't get an answer by tomorrow,
I'll post the weight.

>I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where
>the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of
>these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?

No experience, but I would be concerned, too.  If you can find a set lifting
chains (connected by a common ring) you  can connect to the bolts that go
through the manifold and into the heads.

Frank Boerger
Tallahassee, FL

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (William Goodnight)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:30:14 -0300
Subject: Attention Toro Freaks! 

Todays Boise Newspaper has the following Ad:

        1967 Toronado.  33,000 original miles, always garaged, All power,
Air, Like New!         208-734-4415.

I think I saw this car yesterday on the road.  I tried to catch the old
lady, but I got hung up in traffic.  It was maroon with a white vinyl top,
and it was showroom.  I am not into Toros, but I can't imagine what you
would have to invest to restore one to this condition.

Bill Goodnight
Idaholc@primenet.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:19:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Digital dash 

>     I have an Olds Cutless Supreme 1990.  I curently have 124,000 miles 
>     and in excelent condition.  I have one problem.  My digital dash went 
>     out at 100,000 miles.  Occasionally it will work but only 25% of the 
>     time.  Do you have any suggestions?

"went out" means... what? If it simply stays black, I would look for
loose connectors in back where they plug into the circuit board, stuff
like that, especially since you say it works 25% of the time; i.e. if
it blew its mind, it would be dead from that point on, period. If only
some things have gone dead, see what feeds the offending circuit(s);
e.g. separate power supply circuit, sending unit, etc.

I would try a little careful disassembly of the dash and see what you
find in back.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:25:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Digital dash

On 12 Sep 96 at 18:59, Mike Nicodemus wrote:
>      I have an Olds Cutless Supreme 1990.  I curently have 124,000
>      miles and in excelent condition.  I have one problem.  My
>      digital dash went out at 100,000 miles.  Occasionally it will
>      work but only 25% of the time.  Do you have any suggestions?

Get a new dash?

There are replacements avail, but prolly about $200 if I recall 
correctly from my sister's ex-Z24 Ch*vy.  I remember something about 
the dealer having a way of setting the mileage, etc. to correct 
numbers.  If you have a service manual, it probably has the 
procedures for that and you could try a junk yard for the part.

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: "AUVAX7::RILES" <RILES%AUVAX7.decnet@auscam.amd.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:00:00 -0300
Subject: Production numbers on 4-speed cars

G'day,

Does anyone know if there are any production numbers for 4-speed cars (Olds, 
of 
course) from mid-60s to early 70s?  I am especially interested in 4-speeds in 
sleepers, meaning not 442s or W cars.

Thanks,
Robert Iles

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:13:45 -0300
Subject: C heads...

> Well, I'm about to go feet first into a 455 project motor, are you saying
> that Mondello is overpriced and/or hard to deal with? I'd like to know,
> because I'm needing a block, heads, and other items, and I'm not sure where
> to start. This is the first Olds motor I'm doing and would like some advice.
> I need a 1968 455 block and (C?) heads. Also, anyone know where I can find a
> forged crank? Any advice appreciated!! Thanks,
> 
	When you start looking for a pair of C heads, if you can't find a
pair locally, I know of a couple pairs up here I could grab.  One pair is
on a 68 Toro (big valve!) still have to call on the price, the other is
probibly a pair of small valve units (don't know) but they would go for
$100 plus whatever it would cost to ship them.  If you or anybody else is
interested, just let me know.

	
				Scott 
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:30:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info

>  Kanter, Edelbrock, Brothers, and Fusick all send a free catalog.  And 
Year

>  One is perhaps the most polite group of people I have ever dealt with.  I
am
>
>  open for comments.

<<I haven't heard of Kanter and Brothers. What Olds parts do they offer, and
<<does anyone have numbers for them, thanks!!
 ----------
Phil,

You can look at most of what Kanter has to offer at http://www.kanter.com/
But Brothers you probably will have to call for the catalog.  If you say you 
saw them (Brothers) in "Cars and Parts" magazine they will send it to you 
free.  Brothers is kind of a combination of Fusicks and Year One.   Hope 
this helps:

Brothers Automotive
Route 3, Box 372
St. Joseph, MO 64505
(816) 662-2060
Cutlass/442

Kanter Auto Products
76 Monroe St.
Boonton, NJ 07005
(800) 526-1096
FAX (201) 334-5423
http://www.kanter.com/
email a request for a catalog to:  sales@kanter.com
Cutlass/442 & 88/98 Suspension & Misc

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 09:00:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Axle Bearing

At 10:13 AM 9/12/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Just turn the drum around and put it back on the lugs backwards and screw 3
>of the lugnuts back on 2-3 turns and use the drum as a slide hammer to get
>the axle to pull out of the rearend.
>Brad (0-0||||0-0)

Hey, that's an excellent idea, Brad!  I've done rear wheel bearings once on
my Olds and three times on a Toyota I used to own, and always rented one of
those axle pullers.  Never thought of doing it with the drum.  Thanks!

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:42:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info

<< Kanter, Edelbrock, Brothers, and Fusick all send a free catalog.  And 
Year
<<I haven't heard of Kanter and Brothers. What Olds parts do they offer, and
<<does anyone have numbers for them, thanks!!
________________________
Phil,

In my previous message I gave you all the info that I have on the two of 
them, but I don't have any information on any Internet sites, or Email 
address for Brothers.  Does anyone know if Brothers is on the net?

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:53:12 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Engine weight 

At 04:24 PM 9/12/96 -0300, Frank Boerger wrote:

>It's a pity I'm not near you...I bought the 3,000 # engine hoist from Sam's
Club
>for $ 199, and it snatched the 350/TH-350 combo from both of my cars with no
>problem.  If you can use one enough to justify the purchase, I think it's a
good
>deal.  It even folds up for storage.

I've seen similar deals around town. Rental place want's $42 to rent it,
since I'll need to rent it twice and prolly need one at least once more in
my life I may just go buy one. Unless of course I could get Jason to borrow
his Dad's truck and come pull it for me. ;)

>
>>I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where
>>the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of
>>these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?
>
>No experience, but I would be concerned, too.  If you can find a set lifting
>chains (connected by a common ring) you  can connect to the bolts that go
>through the manifold and into the heads.

I'm thinkin this is the way to go, thanks for the advice guys. I've seen the
adjustable one's that Joe Padavano mentioned at Summit and I don't think
they were too expensive.

 
J. Todd Hall                         
Cleveland, OH       
1972 4-4-2        


                                    

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:17:35 -0300
Subject: Re 98/88 Fits

Generally it seems that front end (front doors, hood, fenders, bumper)
stuff is compatible between 88s/98s while rear end (trunk lid, rear bumper,
quarter panels aren't).

More specifically:

Hood:
All 65-76 88s and 98s share the same hoods per model year.  Also 71-72
hoods and interchangable.  The only thing to watch for is 1970 where the
may be a difference based on whether the car has AC or not.

Front Bumper:
>From 68-76: they share the same front bumper each year.  Before 68, there
are some difference based on model designation.

Rear Bumper:
88s and 98s are different.

Front door:
These follow models designations per year.  That is,  all 2 door hardtop
coupes from the same year will have the same door, whether they are 88 or
98.  Same goes with 4 door sedans.  With convertibles there are differences
in some years between 88s and 98s. So you need the same type or 88 or 98 to
get the door from, not just another 88 or 98 from the same year.  To find
out your designation look at the VIN: 37 stands for 2 door hardtop coupe,
etc.

Rear door:
Rear doors are different from 88 to 98, regardless or type or year.

Front fenders:
These are generally the same between 88s and 98s of the same year. 
However, from 69-70, Delta 88 mode 36647 (Delta 88 Royale) has different
fenders from others 88s and all 98s.  Also you have to watch for cornering
lamps or no cornering lamps.  74-75 88 and 98 front fenders are the same.

Of course almost all mechanical stuff is the same, with the exception of
anything to do with the 98's longer wheelbase (driveshaft), and some
suspension components.  

This information is from GM's 65-76 Olds parts catalog.  Of course they
weren't "always" perfect (ha ha), so there could be an error somewhere.  If
anyone wants any information more specific, let me know.  Best to include
the first 6 or 7 digits of the VINs involved, as this should ensure model
type.

Hope this helps.
Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:40:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 88 and 98 fits

Generally it seems that front end (front doors, hood, fenders, bumper)
stuff is compatible between 88s/98s while rear end (trunk lid, rear bumper,
quarter panels aren't).

More specifically:

Hood:
All 65-76 88s and 98s share the same hoods per model year.  Also 71-72
hoods and interchangable.  The only thing to watch for is 1970 where the
may be a difference based on whether the car has AC or not.

Front Bumper:
>From 68-76: they share the same front bumper each year.  Before 68, there
are some difference based on model designation.

Rear Bumper:
88s and 98s are different.

Front door:
These follow models designations per year.  That is,  all 2 door hardtop
coupes from the same year will have the same door, whether they are 88 or
98.  Same goes with 4 door sedans.  With convertibles there are differences
in some years between 88s and 98s. So you need the same type or 88 or 98 to
get the door from, not just another 88 or 98 from the same year.  To find
out your designation look at the VIN: 37 stands for 2 door hardtop coupe,
etc.

Rear door:
Rear doors are different from 88 to 98, regardless or type or year.

Front fenders:
These are generally the same between 88s and 98s of the same year. 
However, from 69-70, Delta 88 mode 36647 (Delta 88 Royale) has different
fenders from others 88s and all 98s.  Also you have to watch for cornering
lamps or no cornering lamps.  74-75 88 and 98 front fenders are the same.

Of course almost all mechanical stuff is the same, with the exception of
anything to do with the 98's longer wheelbase (driveshaft), and some
suspension components.  

This information is from GM's 65-76 Olds parts catalog.  Of course they
weren't "always" perfect (ha ha), so there could be an error somewhere.  If
anyone wants any information more specific, let me know.  Best to include
the first 6 or 7 digits of the VINs involved, as this should ensure model
type.

Hope this helps.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:25:00 -0300
Subject: FW: Needing Mondello info

**This is a resend.  I don't know if this went through the first time.**
>  Kanter, Edelbrock, Brothers, and Fusick all send a free catalog.  And 
Year
>  One is perhaps the most polite group of people I have ever dealt with.  I 
am
>  open for comments.

<<I haven't heard of Kanter and Brothers. What Olds parts do they offer, and
<<does anyone have numbers for them, thanks!!
 ----------
Phil,

You can look at most of what Kanter has to offer at http://www.kanter.com/
But Brothers you probably will have to call for the catalog.  If you say you 
saw them (Brothers) in "Cars and Parts" magazine they will send it to you 
free.  Brothers is kind of like a combination of Fusicks and Year One. 
  Hope this helps:

Brothers Automotive
Route 3, Box 372
St. Joseph, MO 64505
(816) 662-2060
Cutlass/442

Kanter Auto Products
76 Monroe St.
Boonton, NJ 07005
(800) 526-1096
FAX (201) 334-5423
http://www.kanter.com/
email a request for a catalog to:  sales@kanter.com
Cutlass/442 & 88/98 Suspension & Misc

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:23:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Attention Toro Freaks!

On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, William Goodnight wrote:
>         1967 Toronado.  33,000 original miles, always garaged, All power,
> Air, Like New!         208-734-4415.
> 
> I think I saw this car yesterday on the road.  I tried to catch the old
> lady, but I got hung up in traffic.  It was maroon with a white vinyl top,
> and it was showroom.  I am not into Toros, but I can't imagine what you
> would have to invest to restore one to this condition.

Man, why couldn't this have been advertised when I was visiting Boise for 
a week back in June? Shoot... I could have driven it home... and then I 
could have joined the Toro list too!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:34:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964

On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:
> "Dear St Anthony, please come around, 
> a switch is fried and can't be found"

LOL! :)

Here is the original p/n for the '64 ignition switch: 1116646

The lock cylinder p/n, in case you need it: 7006914

Hope this helps us track one down for Esko.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:20:04 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Needing Mondello info 

     I'm sure someone else will come in and correct me if I'm wrong, but 
     AFAIK the '68 Hurst/Olds was the only way you could get a 455 in a 
     Cutlass that year.  Well, at least they *were* Cutlass's before being 
     shipped to Hurst for customizing.
     
     Tom.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/12/96 12:19 PM

but all the CA smog info I've found indicates that a 455 was an option for 
68. Probably the larger cars had a 455, not the Cutlass, but the CA smog 
books don't break 1968 down into models, just the year. (Is it possible to 
have ordered a 68 Cutlass with a 455 from the dealer or factory???) I need to 
prove to the smog guys that a 455 "COULD" have come in the car that year!

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:39:02 -0300
Subject: Parts 

>A 4 or 2 door? am/fm?  clock? Just wondering what parts it has.. thanks.
>DrkSole
>73 Cutlass Supreme

It's a 4 with a clock(it was ticking) and a WORKING am radio and the rest
of the stuff....
Kenneth

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:44:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info.

Another thing to consider about the 70 versus 71-72 ram air hood, is that the 
core support is different.

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:51:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Attention Toro Freaks!

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> ...and then I could have joined the Toro list too!

Still can...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:43:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964 

>Here is the original p/n for the '64 ignition switch: 1116646

Thanks. It's too late for today but I'll call it in tomorrow. He
did not sound too encouraging about this and I thought later that
he might have asked for the original p/n as a "go away" strategy
of asking for an impossible bit of info to get rid of an annoying
customer (me) who wanted something they didn't have.

Esko, are you sure you don't want to buy _two_ of these things in
case it turns out that the problem, um, is not in the switch?  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 14:03:43 -0300
Subject: Draining Torque Converters (Was: Transmissions, Olds &  

	     non-Olds)

For Dave and all who wish to know...

>From "Turbo Hydra-matic 350 Handbook" by Ron Sessions, Copyright
1985.  Page 14-15.

"Converter & Cooler Flushing Method -- I prefer this method of draining
the convertor for 3 reasons:  There's no chance of metal chips getting
into the convertor; no potential leaks are added; and the cooler is also
flushed." ...
  "You'll need an assistant, a short length of  3/8-in. rubber hose, and a
large bucket for this one.  Disconnect the *cooler-outlet* or transmission
return line at the radiator -- it'll be the _top_ line if it's a cross-flow 
rad-
iator.  If you're working with a downflow radiator, find the top line at the
transmission and trace it to the radiator -- that's the return line.
  Disconnect the line using a flare-nut wrench.  Use another wrench on
the radiator fitting to keep it from turning.  Slip one end of the hose over
the radiator fitting and put the other end into the bucket.  Have a pre-
arranged system of hand signals; otherwise there's going to be a lot
of screaming, yelling and running around -- and a big mess.  Have your
assistant start the engine.  The pressurized fluid will begin gushing from
the hose.  Observe the color of the fluid.  When it turns from reddish-
brown to bright red, this is the signal for the engine to be shut off.  The
bright red fluid is the new stuff.  Don't flush it out.   If it takes longer 
than
45 seconds for the fluid to run clean, stop the engine and add another
quart or two.  Refit the cooler line and add about 5 quarts of new fluid."


Or, to make a long story short...  After draining tranny and replacing filter,
fill tranny up to correct level with new fluid.  Then remove the return line
at the radiator, connect a hose to radiator and put the other end of the
hose into a large bucket.  Start car.  Fluid will pump out of hose into
bucket.  If clean fluid does not come out within 45 seconds, shut off car
and add more fluid.  Start engine again and wait till new fluid comes out. 
Make sure you pump out enough that trasmission is not over-filled.  Shut
off engine.   Replace return line, start engine and check fluid level.  Add if
necessary.  

If you disconnect the lower line and just pump it out there, you're only
draining the convertor.  But if you drain it out of the top line, you're
flushing the cooler, too -- which is better.

Have fun!

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 10:14:12 -0300
Subject: '72 cutlass signal lense (and info) needed  

I need to get an amber signal lense for the passenger front fender turn
signal.  I lost mine due to a dumbass attack I had on Sunday.  I also
managed to dent the hell out of the fender and put a dimple in the front
bumper.  I was backing up and didn't see a 15 inch high stump left from a
maple sapling that was on my right side.  Of course, I found it soon enough
when I cut the wheel really hard to the left. I managed to get the dent out
by popping the hood and hitting it from the backside with the bottom of my
fist.  I still have some ripples to get out now with a hammer and dolly.
The bumper looks fine from the front but the side where it wraps around the
corner is dimpled in.  The paint looked like it was scratched to the metal,
but when I looked closer I saw that it was nothing but tree bark smeared all
over it.  It rubbed out with some turtle wax rubbing compound.  The
scratches never got past the top coat so the finish is still yellow, it just
don't shine up no more in that patch.

I have a couple of questions:
- -It doesn't look like the turn signal lense can be re-attatched to the
assembly.  Does the lense and assembly have to be replaced as a unit?
- -Is it likely that the crome will chip on the bumper when I try and work the
dimple out with a hammer and dolly?
- -Does fusick or year one sell the signal assembly?  Does anyone know how 
much?


If anyone has an extra turn signal lense or assembly they want to sell
please e-mail me.

Thanks a bunch.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser 

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:40:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello 

In a message dated 96-09-12 01:46:08 EDT, you write:

<< As we've talked about these are not ch*vies, exclusivity has it's upside
and
 its downside. I'm not about to blow big shekels on my motor, but for those
 people who can and want to, I thinks it's o.k. that there's someone there
 to serve that market. Just ain't for me, I'm a street guy with a 98. A
 blown nitro 4 bolt main, dry sump, Toro pan, lumpy cam, smog illegal, fuel
 injected would just be kind of funny on that car.  >>

But Mondello started out by building chevys and mopars in alter fuel
cars.  He did not get involved with olds till the late 60's early 70's

W Machines

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:42:28 -0300
Subject: RE: '72 cutlass signal lense (and info) needed  

Greg,

>Does the lense and assembly have to be replaced as a unit?  

Don't remember.  But am inclined to think so.

>If anyone has an extra turn signal lense or assembly they want to sell
>please e-mail me.

I think that I do at home.  If I do I'll mail it Angela and have her get it to 
you somehow.

Roger Boralse
'72 Cutlass Cruiser
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase/wagon.html

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:31:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Draining Torque Converters (Was: Transmissions, Olds &  

     The top line doesn't seem to be the return line on my '84 H/O.  The 
     external cooler I got came with showed a little chart as to which line 
     was in from tranny and which was return.  I didn't trust the chart so 
     I started the car with the engine cold, drove around the block once, 
     then power-braked it gently for a few seconds to warm up the tranny.  
     The engine wasn't anywhere near warmed up at this time and the 
     thermostat hadn't opened yet.  I went up front and felt the two lines 
     coming from the tranny.  Top one was warm, bottom one was cool.  
     Radiator side tank was cool to the touch.  I deduced from this that 
     the bottom line was the return line, just like the chart said.  BTW, 
     there appears to be no pattern to that silly chart at all.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Draining Torque Converters (Was: Transmissions, Olds & 
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/12/96 4:16 PM
     
If you disconnect the lower line and just pump it out there, you're only 
draining the convertor.  But if you drain it out of the top line, you're 
flushing the cooler, too -- which is better.
     
Have fun!
     
- -Blaine
     
     

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:52:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello 

<<But Mondello started out by building chevys and mopars in alter fuel
cars.  He did not get involved with olds till the late 60's early 70's

W Machines>>

Gotcha, didn't know his background. I was just trying to make the case
that to some people his services might represent good value. Just not
to me. Not on my 98 anyway, now if I were to get a nice say 67 cutlass
convertible with a low mileage frame, mebbe I'd call 'im. 

Some other lifetime, but it's fun to dream.
cf

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:51:38 -0300
Subject: Fall CCR Olds Show - Wash DC area

Hello Oldsmobilers!!!

I know this came out at leasr twice before, but here it is again.  It will be
out 1 more time
before the show {Mainly for the newbies on the list}

The Capitol City Rockets Chapter of the Oldsmobile Club of America will be
having our
8th Annual All-Oldsmobile Fall Show on Sunday October 6, 1996 @ Templeton
Oldsmobile
in Vienna, VA featuring:
  
o  OCA judging w/ awards
o  FREE T-shirt, dash plaque and goodie bag for each entry. (Goodie Bag 
Stuffers
from
Mobil 1 Racing, Fusick Automotive, Edelbrock, The Wax Shop, Olds Parts USA, 
Auto Custom Carpets, Western Auto Parts America, STP, Son of a Gun, JB Weld,
Steele Rubber, Stencils & Stripes, Apple Hydraulics and others)
o  Oldies 100 WBIG to supply the tunes.
o  Food vendor for your heart clogging needs with breakfast & lunch
o  Parts Department open w/ discounts on all cash & check purchases
o  Great door prizes to be given away all day. (Prizes from Templeton Olds, 
K&N Engineering,  Auto Custom Carpets, Olds Parts USA, Mothers, 
Edelbrock, Stencils & Stripes, Apple Hydraulics and others)

Pre-registration $10 first car, $5 each additional car,  $12 day of show.
PRE-1949 Oldsmobiles & spectators are free !!!!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

PRE-REGISTRATION ENDS SEPTEMBER 21 !!!!!

Gates open @ 9AM, judging starts @ 12PM,  
awards as soon as judging is completed (3PM???)

For more info or a registration form, e-mail me.


 ---  
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  1994 88 LSS (soon!!!)
| | |  76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:51:07 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 cutlass signal lense (and info) needed 

Greg,
The entire assy. comes out, and the lens is separate from the assy. I have a 
complete assy., plus a good lens for $25 + $5 shipping. Let me know if 
interested.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: DESIMONEP@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 21:14:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Needing Mondello info 

In a message dated 96-09-12 17:49:32 EDT, you write:

> I'm sure someone else will come in and correct me if I'm wrong, but 
>       AFAIK the '68 Hurst/Olds was the only way you could get a 455 in a 
>       Cutlass that year.  Well, at least they *were* Cutlass's before being

>       shipped to Hurst for customizing.
>       
>       Tom.

If this is so, what did Hurst do to the Olds Cutlass in 68 to make it a H/O?
Did they have a dual gate shifter that year?

------------------------------

From: Curt Chesnut <cchesnut@interramp.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 21:30:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight 

At 04:29 PM 9/12/96 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm going to be pulling the engine out of the 442 again so I can finish 
>detailing the engine compartment and engine. I need to buy an engine stand 
>and wanted to know which one to buy. 

         I had the same experience and bent up the oil pan.  Do go for
         the biggest unit you can get.
>        
>        Go for the heavy duty unit.  I had a 455 short block on 
>        one of the cheap ones and the front caster buckled while 
>        trying to move it, dumping the motor on the ground.  Big 
>        wheels and large diameter, thick wall tubing.
>
>What's the ballpark weight of an Old's 350, how bought the 455?
>
>        Somewhere between 600 and 700 lbs.
>         
>I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where 
>the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of 
>these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?
>
>          I've always been scared of these, given the number of times 
>          I've had to put Heli-coils in the carb bolt holes of 
>          aluminum intakes.  A better choice is one of the adjustable 
>          engine lifters, which bolts to the diagonally opposite 
>          corners of the engine and uses a screw mechanism to adjust 
>          the tilt of the engine.  This is invaluable when 
>          reinstalling the engine, especially if you are putting it in 
>          with the trans attached
>          
>          Joe Padavano
>          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
>          
>          66 442
>          68 W-30
>          69 H/O
>          70 W-30
>          
>          
>
>
>
*==========================================*
*  Curt Chesnut                            *
*  cchesnut@interramp.com                  *
*==========================================*

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #298
********************************
 
