
oldsmobile-digest           Friday, 5 July 1996        Volume 01 : Number 222


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 19:10:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear speaker..  

At 06:21 PM 4/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>BobH592058@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> ... two very small "tweeter" stereo speakere...
>
>You reminded me of something I think I might have mentioned before, Bob.
>Low frequencies are very non-directional.  
>
>The high frequencies are VERY directional so mid/tweeters effect the 
>stereo image a great deal.  
>Radio Shack, among other, sells a TWO INCH midrange (40-1281) for 27 
>bucks and a 2" piezo tweeter (40-1383) for 5.  
>
>The 66 Toro and Mike
>
>
>--66 Toro:

I'd speak to Mike, but I prefer to go straight to the top.  Will these
speakers you mentioned do a good job on my regular AM/FM factory radios?
What about regular AM radios?  What about 6 volt cars?

Bill Culp
Decatuur, Alabama
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 19:21:12 -0300
Subject: dash interchange question 

Will a dash off of a 73-77 Cutlass fit a 74 El Camino? My dad is building up
his 74 El Camino SS 454, and parts are harder to find for a SS than a H/O
from that era. He wants to go a little different in his restification and
put a Cutlass dash in. Since it is the same A-body platform I think it
should fit. I obviously would have to drill new mounting holes. What do you
all think?

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power  
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power     
HOCA member #0278A...in need of 75 H/O and 442 parts!

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 22:50:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear speaker.. 

Lloyd Culp wrote:
> 
> I'd speak to Mike, but I prefer to go straight to the top.  Will these
> speakers you mentioned do a good job on my regular AM/FM factory 
> radios? What about regular AM radios?  What about 6 volt cars? 

Don't matter 6 volts, 12 volts, 120 volts AC.  That's only what power is 
supplied to the radio.  Has nothing to do with what comes out the speaker 
terminals.  Could do it with anything.  Something to keep in mind is the 
absolute WORST device in any audio system is the speakers.  Only thing is 
to watch is putting too much of a load on the radio (which could lead to 
smoke-city).  Let me know what you're wanting to do and I'll tell you how 
it can be done.

So, yes, even an old 6 volt VW radio would benefit.

The 66 Toro (and yeah, the old wirehead)


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: John & Robin Whitcore <retrotek@phoenixat.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 17:10:01 -0300
Subject: Painting Engine

We have a '69 442 w/ a 455 and we want to paint the engine block. How 
hard is it to pull the engine and what's all entailed in doing so? Has 
anyone ever painted their block without pulling the engine?

.....j&r

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 22:07:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear speaker..  

At 10:50 PM 4/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Lloyd Culp wrote:
>> 
>>   Will these
>> speakers you mentioned do a good job on my regular AM/FM factory 
>> radios? What about regular AM radios?  What about 6 volt cars? 
>
> Let me know what you're wanting to do and I'll tell you how 
>it can be done.
>
>So, yes, even an old 6 volt VW radio would benefit.
>
>The 66 Toro (and yeah, the old wirehead)
>
>
>I am now working on my 1962 Dodge W/AM radio & my 1966 Toronado W/AM-FM
Search.  What can be done in the way of speakers.  I also have a 1949
Studebaker W/6 volt AM.  What speakers would you advise as all currently
have very old 9x6's?



Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 22:14:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Painting Engine

I painted the engine while in my car last Saturday. I do have the whole
front end (hood, fenders, header panel) off the front of my 75 H/O. The
pevious week I painted the frame. To begin with I got rolled plastic and
covered up all the frame and firewall, distrib, carb(yes I left the carb
on!) I made sure it was covered good, that was the longest part of the job
was covering every corner. Once done I painted it using spray cans. It came
out REAL well. No overspray at all. The only area that is lacking is the
underneath of the engine, but who sees that anyway. I am not going to put
mirrors under there when I show it. Good luck...

At 05:10 PM 7/4/96 -0300, John & Robin Whitcore wrote:
>We have a '69 442 w/ a 455 and we want to paint the engine block. How 
>hard is it to pull the engine and what's all entailed in doing so? Has 
>anyone ever painted their block without pulling the engine?

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power  
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power     
HOCA member #0278A...in need of 75 H/O and 442 parts!

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 22:25:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Painting Engine

j&r,
Painting an engine in the car isn't exactly a day at the beach.  It's messy.  If 
you do, wrap everything you don't want painted with aluminum foil and mask off 
everthing on all four sides of the motor.
Now, on the other hand, if you want to clean up, and paint the rest of the 
engine compartment, pull the engine.  It's easier for me to pull the engine and 
trans. together.  That way, you can reseal the engine while its out, clean and 
paint the engine compartment and put it back.
If there's someone that owes you, or someone you can blackmail, get them to do 
it for you.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 23:09:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Painting Engine 

At 05:10 PM 4/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>We have a '69 442 w/ a 455 and we want to paint the engine block. How 
>hard is it to pull the engine and what's all entailed in doing so? Has 
>anyone ever painted their block without pulling the engine?
>
>.....j&r

Pulling the engine isn't really hard, but does take time & can surely get
into the might-as-wells.  New motor mounts, accessories such as starters,
alternators, water pumps, etc., etc..  The engine is taken loose from the
transmission and may lead ot leaks if you don't now have them.  It would be
a good time to put a new seal in the front of the transmission, possibly an
oil pan seal on the engine, or even a rear main seal. See what I mean?

To get it out, you need a hoist - you can rent that - & a friend or so to
help keep the engine steady and not banging everything up getting it in &
out.  The wiring including ground straps must be unhooked from the engine,
the radiator & fan must be removed, the engine must be unhooked from the
transmission & all linkages must be unhooked, accessories like alternators,
AC, & sometimes the carburetor must be removed or unbolted & put out of the
way, the exhaust must be unbolted either at the engine or the manifolds, &
the motor mounts must be unbolted from the frame. 

Once you get started under the hood, there seems to be no place to stop.  It
does look fabulous though.  I am painting my 442 W/engine in place.  It is a
chore, but by taking enough pieces off the engine, it can look very good.
The engine and parts to be painted must be super clean - remember the paint
must stay and look nice for a while or it isn't worht the effort.  I am also
stuck W/painting mine the color that someone else gave it - some yucky
orange - as it is very hard to get everywhere W/the engine in the car & that
stupid color would sure stand out against the correct bronze.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama  
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 00:32:56 -0300
Subject: Re: antique car insurance

> Info on several collector car insurance companies follow.

What about those of us who need insurance for a restified daily driver?  
My car is too old to make comp/collision worth the premium (on a normal 
policy).  It's had a new paint job, new interior, and is getting a new 
engine.  When I'm done, I'll have spent a *buttload* of money on it, and 
I want to drive it every day with no restrictions.  I also live in an 
apartment, so I don't have a garage.  Is there some type of insurance 
that will cover people like me, or is that just wishful thinking??  I 
also can't get a decent appraisal on it.  *Sigh* . . . . . 

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 00:46:38 -0300
Subject: 66 Toro pcs.

to the guy looking for 66 Toro cruise items: I have 2 such parts cars, not sure
if cruise is on either, will take time to get around to it. What part exactly
is the "motor" you refer to? the bellows that actuates the throttle, the unit
that mounts mid-speedo-cable, or what?
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: dave_byers@lansing-online.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 20:57:06 -0300
Subject: Take me out for a week's vacation

unsubscribe oldsmobile David Byers <Dave_Byers@lansing-online.com>
David_Byers@Lansing-Online.com

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 01:16:50 -0300
Subject: Re: '65 Olds 98 (was Re: Fusick Trip and INTRO...) 

>        In fact, when I see an `83 camaro I expect it to be modified.  As
>often as not,  they have had a broomstick through the cat converter and
>muffler, traction bars, and rear tires that don't fit in the fender wells.
>The latter is typically mated to a tired 200HP engine & drivetrain that has
>been thrashed by 16-year olds for the last 5 years of its life.  Don't
>forget the tinted windows, no fear decal, thumping stereo, and cigarettes.
>The faster versions of theese cars have a half dozen window stickers
>including summit racing, competition cams, and holley.  5.0L mustang owners
>have an affinity for these practices too.Everyone knows what I'm talking
>about.  You see a million cars like this, don't you?   I mean really, It's
>been done.

You speaketh the truth! Don't forget all the trucks with way-too-many
ground effects and an engine that's all muffler. I'm pretty sure those cars
suck, I love seeing Mustangs (yellow 1994 GTs are my favorite) in my
rearview mirror. So long as my already 4500 pound car isn't weighed down
with junk (including people) it will pass everything except the gas
station. =)

Finally glad to see another 1965 Olds 98 owner on the list. Let me know if
you need me to decode any of the numbers, I have a set of original chassis
and body manuals. Keep in touch!
Nick

      ------------------------------------------------------------------
      1965 Oldsmobile 98          TIP # 1048         Trade Live Concerts
      Dallas, Texas             MiSTie # 53344        Collect Hot Wheels
      ------------------------------------------------------------------
                Official Signature File Of The Olympic Games

------------------------------

From: Michael Blennerhassett <blenner@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 11:04:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Toro pcs.

That's me!  Thanks for the reply.

The original cruise on my 66 Toro is run by an electric motor at the back 
driver's side of the engine.  According to signals from the speed sensor, 
which has a speedo-type cable going in, it mechanically - not vacuum - 
adjusts the accelerator position.

So, it really is a motor that I need, but in the interests of getting 
a functioning unit, maybe I should take a complete unit?

In case  you have stuff, here are my numbers:
Michael Blennerhassett
 work 905 525 9140 x22771
 play 905 765 3760

*********************


On Fri, 5 Jul 1996, Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> to the guy looking for 66 Toro cruise items: I have 2 such parts cars, not sure
> if cruise is on either, will take time to get around to it. What part exactly
> is the "motor" you refer to? the bellows that actuates the throttle, the unit
> that mounts mid-speedo-cable, or what?
> --
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 14:30:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Toro pcs.

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> to the guy looking for 66 Toro cruise items: I have 2 such parts cars,

Chris,

Don't I remember you telling me you were going to check and see if one of 
your parts Toros had a usable right bumperhorn when "the thaw came"?  
Should you get back out in the fields for the Michael's cruise control 
parts, I appriciate an update.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: "Dan Birnell" <dbirnell@netusa1.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 11:31:16 -0300
Subject: 78 Cutlass Supreme For Sale

For Sale:
1978 Cutlass Supreme
82,8XX Miles
305/4bbl (Engine code H)
AT on column
Black paint
Black interior.
Interior is in great shape, no rips in vinyl, & newer carpet.
rear bumper has infamous rust hole, but still solid otherwise.
great daily driver.  small exhaust leak between splitter & Catalitic
converter.  Needs paint job. (sat outside for most of is life)
original rallye wheels.
call 1-219-626-2641 or 1-800-792-0086 and ask for Dan Birnell
asking $1095

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 11:38:42 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 Cutlass Supreme owner... 

At 09:26 AM 7/4/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>If anyone else has a '72 Cutlass Supreme, I'd love to hear about it...
>


I've had a '72 Cutlass for about 14 years now. I rebuilt the engine in high
school and ran out of money and time shortly thereafter. It's been sitting
in the garage collecting dust for the past 10 years or so. 
I just discovered www.442.com and this mailing list, and my interest in the
car has returned! The engine doesn't need much work but the tranny needs to
be rebuilt and the body is stripped down to primer, interior is in fair
condition. 

First project is to drain the 10 year old gas and get some fresh fuel in it. 
Any suggestions before I start the engine for the first time in several years?


Thanks...

Todd Hall
thall@en.com

BTW: I have a brother named Mike Hall, not an olds guy tho'...
78 Trans Am, and a beauty. [ the car, not my brother :) ]

 
  

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 15:21:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear speaker (a bit long) 

Lloyd Culp wrote:
> 
> I am now working on my 1962 Dodge W/AM radio & my 1966 Toronado W/AM-FM
> Search.  What can be done in the way of speakers.  

Most radios produced around then had 8 ohm speakers; a few had 4 ohm and 
a few oddballs such as 10 ohm. Since the tolerance for general electronic 
components is 20%, for all practical purposes you can consider 10 and 8 
ohms to be the same.  Hopefully you'll find the impedance marked on the 
back of the speaker or in the manuals if you have them.  I would replace 
any old speakers with a close match replacement.  If you considering 
adding additional tweeters, I go for a speaker that is a little "boomy"; 
one that has a little too much bass (which will be balanced out by the 
added tweeters).

It is always safe to go up in impedance (replace a 4 ohm with an 8) but 
you will lose a small amount of volume.  It may not be safe to go lower 
unless you KNOW you radio/amp is rated for the lower impedance.

When hooking up multiple speakers, wiring spaeakers in parallel will 
decrease impedance.  Assuming you wired two 8 ohm speakers in parallel, 
the impedance would be 8 / 2 = 4 ohms.  Three in parallel (not 
recommended) would be 8 /3 = 2.67 ohms.

If you wire them in series, the impedance simply adds.  Two 8 ohms in 
series would be 8 + 8 = 16 ohms.  Note that you could hook two 8 ohms in 
series for 16 ohms then wire two baks of these in parallel for 8 ohms 
again (16 / 2 = 8 ohms).  This would be one way to hook 4 speakers up to 
an 8 ohm radio and spread the sound around a bit.  Note that while the 
total volume shouldn't change, the volume from each speaker would be 1/4 
of what you would had from a single speaker.

One of the best ways to beef up an old radio without sacrificing the OEM 
radio (or the points) is too stash a power booster out of sight.  Even a 
cheapie like a Spark-o-matic (what-a-name) prolly has better specs than 
the original.  Note that the impedance of the booster is usually prett 
high, 100 ohms or more, so they present no loading problem to your old 
radio.  For mono radios, simply hook the speaker output from the radio to 
BOTH left and right inputs on the booster.  Just make sure you hook them 
in the same direction, don't cross the wires.  This won't give you stereo 
(simulating stereo is another trick) but it will sound a lot better.

The piezo speakers I mentioned earlier have a very high impedance, 
usually around 100 ohms.  The nice thing about this is you can hook 
seveal up without overloading the amp.  Though the math is more 
complicated, hooking two 100 ohm piezo tweeters up to an existing 8 ohm 
speaker would give a load of about 7 ohms ... a safe bet.  Also, the 2" 
R/S piezo tweeter is only 5 bucks, cheap enough for an experiment.

Note speakers called "dynamic" are what we're all familiar with and not 
the same as piezo.  You'll find examples of these on page 172 of the 96 
RadioShack catalog.  If you add dynamic mid-ranges or tweeters, you'll 
need to add a crossover (a little more complicated but not much) and 
many people feel this is a better (sounding) route.  Let me know if you 
want to try this.

> I also have a 1949 Studebaker W/6 volt AM.  What speakers would you 
> advise as all currently have very old 9x6's?

A lot harder to tell about these guys.  Do you have any technical data on 
them?  I assume this is a vacuum tube radio so what we can mess with is 
*slightly* different from transistorized stuff.  The impedance of the 
speakers is what we'd need.  There ARE ways of hooking up 12 volt 
electronics to a 6 volt system using devices such as a DC-DC converter or 
DC voltage doubler. 

BTW, I don't recommend any brand of speakers.  Too much depends on the 
listener.  If it sounds good to you it IS good even if your buddy hates 
it and even if it was made by RonCo.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 12:45:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Toro pcs. 

At 02:30 PM 5/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>> 
>> to the guy looking for 66 Toro cruise items: I have 2 such parts cars,
>
>Chris,
>
>I would like to second Mike's reminder.  I am in need of good chrome for
the rear quarter glass, a passenger door window glass, stainless for the top
of the passenger door & rear quarter glass, stainless for the windshield,
disc brake wheel trim rings (shallow type), back-up light (or just lenses),
nice 1967 tilt steering wheel, & I don't have a cruise either.  

What are you going to do about this?  Seriously, I would be in the market
for these items if you have any.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama 
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: batkison@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 15:22:51 -0300
Subject: Re: '65 Olds 98 (was Re: Fusick Trip and INTRO...)

You forgot to mention the eye-grabbing red and yellow neon lights that typically 
appear under the sides of the vehicle or around the license plate frames!
Brad

------------------------------

From: batkison@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 15:29:52 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 Cutlass Supreme owner...

I would replace all fluids in the motor and prime the engine in advance before you 
attempt to fire it!
Brad

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 18:32:50 -0300
Subject: Anyone replaced a `72 heater core? 

I found a green liquid beginning to rust the front passenger floor pan in my
`72 Vista Cruiser( A station wagon that is basically a Cutlass Supreme from
the nose to the B-pillar).  That must be the heater core, I tried tightening
the hoses down around the flanges but a week later the mess is back.   

 Anyone tried replaceing the heater core on a Cutlass with air conditioning?
How long does it take?  My motor's auto repair manual says that the heater
case assembly comes out after the blower motor is removed but that can't be
right.  They must mean the blower an shroud along with it. 

I have just got the heater core bypassed for now.  Any info would be very
much appreciated.

Greg Pruett



- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------------------------------------------------
The Hybrid Electric Vehicle Team of Virginia Tech
http://www.vt.edu:10021/org/hybridcar/index.html
FIRST PLACE IN THE `96 FUTURECAR CHALLENGE
49mpg city;  0-60 in 12 sec 

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:42:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear speaker..  

Mike:

Thanks for the speaker info.  The front speakers in the car now are _lousy_,
probably for the reasons you state and also because the radio and speakers
were what I had.  They were not in a "package".  Probably don't match worth
squat.

Your advice is also timely.  The wife wants me to re-install the stock
original radio for looks, and relocate the modern one to the glove box before
we leave for Atlanta and the OCA Nationals.

Since I'll be under the dash anyway, I'll take your advice and install the
R.S. speakers while I am at it.  I don't often go to Radio Shack (overpriced
in my biased view) but they do frequently have what one needs, so convenience
rules.

Your advice "sounds" good to me - pun intended. :-)

Bob

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:44:42 -0300
Subject: Re: antique car insurance 

In a message dated 96-07-04 23:40:50 EDT, you write:

<< What about those of us who need insurance for a restified daily driver?
  >>

Norm Hines is a member of the Capitol City Rockets Chapter of the OCA and we
know him from having lived there and been fellow charter members of the
Chapter.  He is in the insurance biz.  At one time he had the type of
coverage you describe on his cars and I know he had a loss and it was handled
well.  One of his teenagers actually drove the 442 convertible to high school
every day until some &%#^@# messed with it.  Busted windows and torn top as I
recall.

Your message gave me the excuse to call him and ask.  According to Norm, the
major insurance carriers such as State Farm, Prudential, Allstate, etc. will
write the type of coverage you are seeking.  Usually you must obtain an
appraisal of the cars worth (from a recognized expert appraiser), supply
photographs (usually front and rear) and give an estimate of the mileage you
expect to put on the car.  They will then quote you a rate - which he warns
will be very high!

So it can be done.  His coverage is now of the "garage queen" variety and
runs less than $100 a year for each car.  So the difference in costs is
large.  In fact, in my personal experience normal coverage meeting only the
legal minimum liability requirements in most states is much more expensive
than the antique coverage which will include protection for damage/loss of
the car.

Norm feels most people driving vintage Olds' every day are just doing without
the coverage.  I agree.

Tough decision.


Bob Handren  OCA #7728
'67 W-30 Modified
'70 SX Convertilbe
Oviedo, FL

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:57:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Anyone replaced a `72 heater core?

Greg,
The heater core comes out from the inside. You have to take the heater stuff out 
from under your dash to reach it. It's one of those jobs that takes longer to 
get to it than replace it once you're there.  The new heater core is fairly 
inexpensive.
The last time I had one leaking, I paid to have it replaced. I think it was less 
than $150. Maybe a little more, but what ever the price was, I thought it was 
worth it.									
										
Art Fuller				

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 20:15:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear speaker.. 

BobH592058@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks for the speaker info.

Anytime.  And always happy to help with specific problems.

> Probably don't match worth squat.

More likely either the radio or the speakers are el-crappo.  If you have 
a home speaker that sounds good, hook it up to the radio.  If it sounds 
ok, it proves the speakers are junk.  Otherwise...

> I'll take your advice and install the R.S. speakers while I am at it.

Don't mean to hawk R/S, they're just the most convenient example.  (and 
one of the few sources so piezo tweeters).  Any local store has some 
decent dynamic speakers, let your ears be your guide. And don't buy into 
that garbage about underpowering speakers and how you MUST have a huge 
power amp (spelled $$$$). 

> I don't often go to Radio Shack (overpriced in my biased view) 

Not so biased.  A friend of mine who was once in their management program 
said they make 40% EVEN ON SALES ITEMS!  Bottom line: they are overpriced 
but they do have good sales (like Sears).

> but they do frequently have what one needs, so convenience rules.

Yup.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 17:50:37 -0300
Subject: T-tops & interior lights

Those of us driving G-body's (78-87 Cutlasses) that have t-tops have an
interior lighting problem, as no overhead dome light is provided - there
are two lights down by the kick panels and two in the rear passenger
compartment, but these are hardly adequate when you need to see inside
your car at night.  I know that Andrew had an overhead map light console
that fit rather well and attached to the center plastic trip piece
between the tops, but apparently this product is no longer available.

Anyway, I came up with another somewhat creative solution to this
problem.  I got the idea when my sister totalled her '90 *hevy Lumina. 
The rear-view mirror on that car has map lights on the underside that,
on the Lumina lighting switch, can be turned on by themselves, before
the rest of the interior lights come on.  Otherwise the mirror is the
same as on my '85 442.  So my dad and I ripped the wiring from the roof
of the Lumina and opened the t-shaped plastic piece directly above the
mirror on my car.  The wires running to the aforementioned rear
passenger lights ran thru there, and splicing in the mirror lights was a
simple task.  We then ground a small bump in the plastic piece to run
the thick black wire holder down to the mirror, attached the new mirror,
and in no time at all, I have overhead interior lights.  Of course, I
can't control them separately like in the Lumina, but you'd be surprised
how well those little lights alone (alliteration, neat!) light up my
life.  Total time was like 15-20 min.  So anyway, that's my story, hope
you enjoyed it, I know _I_ did.


______________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."
                 |   -Yoda
______________________________________________
                                

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 17:53:21 -0300
Subject: Re: The Final Oil Down!!! 

 Brad, I use 10W40 Vavoline to break in my engines for 500 miles. 
Then I switch to 20W50 Vavoline.  I run that for 1000 more miles
to protect my engines.  I use this car for street and strip use.
I do heavy cruising in all kinds of temps and weather.  After
the 1500 Miles I then start to use Mobile 1 synthetic oil.
I have noticed that the car runs cooler and shaves about
2 to 3 tenths off my time slips at the track.  As for redline, I use 
their water wetter additive and boy does it make a difference.  Many
racers in this area use Redline and found it to be a very good and 
helpful product.



72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
(W Machines:Mark Prince)

------------------------------

From: <clint@boto.netherworld.org>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 18:20:30 -0300
Subject: Re: T-tops & interior lights

On Fri, 5 Jul 1996, Shawn Twomey wrote:

> Those of us driving G-body's (78-87 Cutlasses) that have t-tops have an
> interior lighting problem, as no overhead dome light is provided - there
> are two lights down by the kick panels and two in the rear passenger
> compartment, but these are hardly adequate when you need to see inside
> your car at night.  I know that Andrew had an overhead map light console
> that fit rather well and attached to the center plastic trip piece
> between the tops, but apparently this product is no longer available.

Hmm... I have a dome light that Wynand put into the car before I bought
it.  It sits directly above the center console between the seat headrests
(if that makes any sense).  It has a cool three way switch on  it as well,
but it's getting flakely.   I'll be reqiring it when I redo the interior
and put a hidden radar detector up there...

Clint

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 20:24:56 -0300
Subject: Re: '65 Olds 98  

>>        In fact, when I see an `83 camaro I expect it to be modified.  As
>>often as not,  they have had a broomstick through the cat converter and
>>muffler, traction bars, and rear tires that don't fit in the fender wells.
>>The latter is typically mated to a tired 200HP engine & drivetrain that has

[SNIP]

I call these the "Mattel Hot Wheels" cars. You forgot the cut springs that
make them comically bounce down the road.

>
>You speaketh the truth! Don't forget all the trucks with way-too-many
>ground effects and an engine that's all muffler. I'm pretty sure those cars
>suck, I love seeing Mustangs (yellow 1994 GTs are my favorite) in my
>rearview mirror. So long as my already 4500 pound car isn't weighed down
>with junk (including people) it will pass everything except the gas
>station. =)

Well, a BMW 325 pulled away from me the other day... I can live with that
for a while, but, this is not what I had in mind...
As I mentioned originally, Brakes first, Suspension second, Rocket power
third...

>
>Finally glad to see another 1965 Olds 98 owner on the list. Let me know if
>you need me to decode any of the numbers, I have a set of original chassis
>and body manuals. Keep in touch!
>Nick

[SNIP]

Yo!! I am very surprised! Up till now, I thought everybody rebuilt 442's
and Cutlussi (sp?;-). No offense, but I thought I was the only person that
thought this car was worth the time until I found this list. I am keeping
the suggestions so far and will use them to define the stages to upgrade
the "Great White Shark". I'll try to get the digital camera out and take
some pictures for a Web page to show the progress.

BTW, one of the main goals is to make this beast appear as stock as
possible so I can enjoy the full impact of shock and surprise as I take off
like the rocket on the emblem.

One last thing; Can I get the steering box to respond quicker if I used a
bigger/better power steering pump? The one on there is fine for cruising
around, and I don't think that there is anything wrong with it, but I can't
get the wheel to move fast enough. Would a pump capable of more volume (not
pressure) help this? Should I be looking for a different steering box
instead (less turns lock-to-lock)?


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #222
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