To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/27/96 07:53:36 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #281


oldsmobile-digest         Tuesday, 27 August 1996      Volume 01 : Number 281


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 20:26:01 -0300
Subject: Olds diesel truck engine (was: Diesel gears) 

     I would think a truck would be different, since they didn't use the 
     GM-converted-gas-engine diesel.
     
          Not true.  The Chevy/GMC pickups used the Olds 350 diesel 
          until the 6.2 liter "truck" diesel was brought on line in 
          the 80s.  I have a 73-79 Chevy Truck parts book which shows 
          this quite clearly.  That's what makes the 
          Olds-engine-for-Chevy-diesel swap so easy.  In addition, the 
          truck parts book lists some neat stuff, like an oil filter 
          adapter for the diesel (fits any late Olds V8) with tapped 
          fittings for a remote oil cooler!
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          
          

------------------------------

From: R4C442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 20:57:31 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI's, points conversions 

Just an add-on to Bill's note. I put an HEI on my 400 which has an Edelbrock
O4B
and it was necessary to cut about 1/4 of the base completely away to get it
to fit.
This setup didn't thrill me to death even though it put on quite a display at
night!
I am now running the magnetic-trigger distributor from JM/MSD and an MSD
6A/Blaster II. Great ignition system ! No problems to date...plugs read
better than they ever have.


Ron Forsee
Mr. 65 442  (Had mine for 31 years!)

------------------------------

From: R4C442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 21:04:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition Kill Switch 

Hey Bryce!
     I did exactly what you are intending to do and the toggle switch used
was the same rating. Been about 6 years now and have had no problems.
Incidently, be creative about the location of that switch as it is an
excellant theft deterrant.


Ron Forsee  & Mistress (that's my wife's term for my hotrod)
Mr. 65 442

------------------------------

From: "Wright, Thomas CDT " <x02311@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 21:25:54 -0300
Subject: RE: Ignition Kill Switch

To all considering a kill switch, ( and this means you Bryceman), I had
my local mechanic install one on my ignition and then put it in my
cigarette holder.  It's great, out of sight from everybody else but
within easy access to switch on at any time.

Justin
66 Dynamic 88

>----------
>From: 	R4C442@aol.com[SMTP:R4C442@aol.com]
>Sent: 	Monday, August 26, 1996 8:04 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject: 	Re: Ignition Kill Switch
>
>Hey Bryce!
>     I did exactly what you are intending to do and the toggle switch
>used
>was the same rating. Been about 6 years now and have had no problems.
>Incidently, be creative about the location of that switch as it is an
>excellant theft deterrant.
>
>
>Ron Forsee  & Mistress (that's my wife's term for my hotrod)
>Mr. 65 442
>
>

------------------------------

From: Oldsman 71 <Oldsman_71@wow.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 21:42:40 -0300
Subject: olds

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: LRoss922@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 22:01:36 -0300
Subject: - 

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: Daniel R Burk <ws6transam@voyager.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 01:08:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Transmission fluids

Craig:

I converted my '84 1/2 700R4 transmission over to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF
back in 1993 with 65,000 miles on it.  I had it torn down and inspected, 
and had the 2-4 shift band replaced.  When the band was worn in (approx. 
500 miles) I experienced quicker shifts, and more consistant operation 
when the transmission got up to temp. (no more slush-o-matic operation)

I now have another 65,000 miles on the car in which I have autocrossed, 
drag raced, and generally acted like a hoon. (Australian lingo for 
hell-raiser.)  It looks like brand new fluid, smells like brand new 
fluid, and generally performs like the day I poured it in.  And the
'84 700R4 transmission shows no signs of old age.

Go find it at your local regional Mobil distributor.  They use it in the 
Caterpillar tractors.  The stuff ran me about fifty dollars for 12 
quarts.

	-- Dan.
		(1984 Oldsmobile Trans Am WS6/L69)

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 21:32:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

In a message dated 96-08-26 10:10:15 EDT, you write:

<< Just for yucks, folks, the next time you're opening your trunk, tell us
 whether there's a deck lid light opening prepunched (if so, it'll have a
 little screw hole next to the big opening) just to the left of the latch,
 and what year car you have. >>

My '72 C/S does have the trunk lid pre-punched for the lite.  But these lids
were used from '70 to '72 (like nobody knew that) and this style lite (on the
hinge) may have been phased in sometime during those years.  Also, different
lites may have been used at different assembly plants.  I have a buddy that
has a '72 "S" coupe (350, 4speed w/ac, BTW).  I ordered his car in the summer
of '71 and still has it.  He has the same trunk lite I do (on the hinge) and
his trunklid in punched also.  This is a factory installed lite and has been
in the car all these years.  Both these cars are Lansing built, his in
November, mine in February.

Paul 

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 21:34:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!! 

In a message dated 96-08-25 19:43:41 EDT, you write:

<< who's peg?  how old is she? and is she really available? >>
 
She's a young woman with TWO Cutlasses, 20-25, ?????????

Peg! Yo Peg, where are you??????????

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 21:32:41 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass Radio options 

In a message dated 96-08-24 18:35:42 EDT, you write:

<<  If you know about
 these radios please share some information on them .....Thank you. >>

Yep, they're all correct radios for '70 to '72.  The '70 & '71 stereo radios
came as a 2 piece unit, for '72 it was all one piece.  That stereo "label"
lites up when it's on a stereo station.  My stereo bulb's been burnt out for
2 years, as is the one in my '67 98.

Paul

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:43:04 -0300
Subject: RE: Ignition Kill Switch

Justin,
Now that I know where your kill switch is, I'm going to steal your car.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 23:44:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass Radio options

Paul,
1970 was a two piece unit, and in 1971 they went to the one piece unit.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 00:02:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Followup: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

In a message dated 96-08-26 12:07:22 EDT, you write:

<< As far as the tabs on the rear seat and armrest panel, they are not 
      intended to hold seat belts as suggested. >>

These tabs are shown on page 14-99 of the '72 Fisher body manual.  The
illustration is for "B & E" convertibles.  They are called "front seat
shoulder belt retainers".  Shows only one per side (naturally).  Does not
show a tab at the bottom of the armrest.  Don't know why you have so many.
 There is no illustration for "A" convertibles.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Fritz Eder <Redman@why.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 00:09:50 -0300
Subject: Re: North Texas Olds Show 8/31

tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com wrote:
> 
> > Anyone in the southwest (or anyplace else for that matter) going to
> > the North Texas Olds show in Dallas 8/31-9/1?
> 
> I would really like to go, but I don't have any info on it.
> Could someone from the list send the specifics (time, place,
> directions within Dallas, etc...) directly to me please?
> I'm on digest and I don't always get to read them in a timely fashon.
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Side note - I was driving down HW 114 about 1/2 mile east of I-35E
> (In Texas, btw) and I saw shop with a probably 20 or so 1950-1970-ish
> Olds's out front in various states of repair.  Anyone know who this
> might be?  I think that area qualifies as Lewisville TX.  Next
> question is of course do we know if they do good work?  I'm looking
> for a shop in the Dallas area.  Other suggestions are always welcome.
> 
>  - Travis and the 69 Olds 98 Convertable aka "Tiny"
> 
> --
> Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
> tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation


	I actually live about 5 minutes up the road from this shop.  I dont
know the name of the shop off the top of my head, but next time I drive
by it I will try to get it and re: do they do good work??????? Dont
know.....  They do occasionally have some nice cars that sit on the
lot.......

									1976 
Jet Boat  (455 OLDS)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:10:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Trunk Lamp

> > For Pontiac, at least, the '72 LeMans we owned had the deck lid prepunched
> > for the overhead light, not the hinge design, and I was able to retrofit
> > the deck lid light in about an hour.
> 
> Just for interest, the trunk light on '68 and '69 Cutlasses (maybe
> earlier too) is in neither of these locations. It is mounted in
> approximately the forward center-left of the trunk lid and extends into the
> trunk, not hidden up in a brace. It sort of looks like a gold hockey puck
> with a hole cut in one side to let the light out. Surface-mounts to the
> underside of the trunk lid with 2 screws, and the cover (actually the
> part that looks like the puck) snaps off to allow for mounting and bulb
> replacement. This design uses a mercury switch that is integral with the
> bulb socket.
> As was said earlier, the 70-72 (?) Cutlasses used the light adjacent to
> the hinge as the factory unit. Seems strange that GM would use several
> different designs for such a generic part.
> 
> BTW, this trunk lamp design on '68s uses the exact same merc switch as in
> the underhood lamps of that and presumably many other years. 
> 
> Greg Beaulieu       

Greg:

I have seen the metal covered ones that you mention on Oldsmobiles back 
into the '50's.  My 1962 Jetfire has one & I believe that my friend's 
'55 has one.  Mine are all silver colored.  I have never seen a gold 
one; possibly that is a Canadian exclusive.  Other GM cars don't carry 
these.  Pontiac carries the hinge mounted ones starting in the middle 
'60's.  My '70 Buick GS has the hinge type.  I have had other Buicks w/a 
simple lamp in socket mounted inside the trunk lid brace & I believe 
that these are common in other GM cars.

An interesting type of light is the one that mounts either on the trunk 
lid or under the hood for Pontiacs & Buicks of the middle '50's through 
'70 or so.  It is made w/a reel that allows it to be used as a trouble 
light for changing tires or marking the car on the road.  I have several 
of these for my '63 Grand Prix & the '70 Buick.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:42:06 -0300
Subject: More on my fubar 350 

After going through a number of points and condensers and other various
ignition parts I decided to go ahead and upgrade to HEI.   I think maybe the
points distributor may have a problem with worn bushings.  I'm not quite
done with the swap but I don't anticipate any problems.  I'm pretty sure
that the problem is with ignition since the miss occours worst under load.
I've also messed with the choke to see if the car is possibly leaning out.
I couldn't change the characteristics of the miss so I'm leaning more
towards ignintion.  It just doesn't act like a leaning-out or over-rich mix
anyway.  My dad noticed someting interesting about the points-distributor
cap.  Five of the spark plug wire sockets looks just like new, the brass
still shines inside. (the cap is 7 days old)  Three of the sockets look
tarnished and very dark.  I wouldn't doubt that his could be associated with
the miss in some way, but I don't know how.  Maybe the play in the
distributor shaft is causing the miss and the tarnished sockets somehow.

I would just like to know if someone can tell me what the plug gap should be
when using HEI .  I was also wondering why the HEI requires a wider gap.
Will the plugs burn up otherwise?

All the input on my recent problem has really been appreiciated and I hope
this new (well, newer anyway) distributor will be the end of it.  Last week
was just one of thoes weeks.



Anyone who might be entertained by hearing the boring details of what I've
done to try and fix the problem can read on. Someone might find it mildly
interesting but I make no guarantees. 

Well I've been busy the last couple of days trying to get moved into my
apartment, get situated for college, and fix my car which still isn't
running well.  The last time I sent an e-mail I had suspected the coil.
Found out the problem wasn't the coil. (since it was still runing crappy
after I swapped the coil with the one off the tractor)  I then changed the
points and condenser and the car still had the same affliction;it still ran
like it was burning up points.  We had checked the voltage coming to the
coil and read eight volts.  In desperation we changed the plugs in case one
was maybe shorting through a crack in the porcelain somewhere and causing
the symptoms.(They were due anyway)  It didn't help any and so we decided
maybe there was a bearing worn out in the distributor since the shaft felt a
little wiggly.

I picked up an HEI distributor from a junkyard for $35 after school.  It
came off a shelf in the back of the store so I don't know the condtion of
the car it came out of.  Installed the HEI in the car but it wasn't putting
out any spark.  Pulled it back out and upon inspecting the spade connections
to the coil  we found out they were making crappy connections.  Tried
cleaning the connections but the distributor still had no spark.  We
replaced the coil with one from an old Ch*vy 6 cyl HEI that was lying
around.  (I think Johnny Cash sung a song about a car that was made out of a
hodgepodge of different make parts.  I think I'm gonna top him if I keep up
like this much longer. Anyway...)  Tested the distributor while it was lying
on the radiator support by hooking up 12 volts to it, grounding it, an
spinning the shaft with a spark plug and wire hooked up...got a healthy
spark.  Saw a dramatic display of how hot the spark really was when I
noticed an arc was jumping a one-inch gap between one of the posts on the
cap and the top radiator hose...Musta been enough dirt on the hose to
conduct to ground.  Forgot to mark where the rotor was when I took the
distributor out, so I had to find TDC on #1 and line up the rotor so it
would fire #1.  It was just my luck that I was 180 degrees out the first
time I tried.  It was dark so we called it a night and went to get the
proper plug wires for the HEI distributor.  I'm going to turn the
distributor around and try it again in the moring.

Thanks once again.

Greg Pruett
`72`76`76`56 Olsmobile-Ch*vy-F*rd-Case Tractor Vista Cruiser


 

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 02:39:18 -0300
Subject: Re: More on my fubar 350 

with an HEI distributor the gap is .080  and you need AC Delco
R46SX spark plugs.  The big difference between points and HEI
is that the HEI will deliver more spark then the points, also 
because the points work like a spring, they weaken in a relative 
short time.  The HEI sits about a inch higher than your points 
distributor.  When you buy the cap and rotor, I would go with
the High performance parts of Standard Igniton a division of 
blue streak.  I forgot to mention that your standard spark plugs
R44 or R45's will make your car run rough due to the small 
gap.  If you gap these to .080 than you bend the electode out of
shape which will cause miss fire.  If your timing moves up and down
when timing, then the bushings in the HEI are worn and you have to 
shim it.  
If you have money availible, I would suggest the MSD Pro Billet Dist.
Of course you need the blaster 2 coil and a MSD 5 or 6 box, but what a 
diffence it makes with no timing deviations.  I use NGK 5670-6 plugs gapped
at .040 for performance.
well good luck


W MACHINES(Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 03:11:33 -0300
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

I am interested to know....I heard from more than one person who has said 
the pushrods are the wrong length, including Mondello and Mr. 
Urban...however I ordered the pushrod that was supposed to come with the 
kit (before I knew it was supposed to be wrong length)...and the rocker 
centers on the valve just fine...aside from loation of the rocker tip on 
the valve are there any other considerations for pushrod length?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 20:21:05 -0300
Subject: Re: More on my fubar 350 

     All the gaps on HEI cars that I have had have been .060.  My '84 H/O 
     uses .080 (!) but I think that's a bit excessive.  You will be 
     changing the plugs to ones that an HEI car uses (like R46-SX), 
     correct?
     
     From what I understand, HEI doesn't *require* a wider gap, but the 
     higher energy spark *allows* you to run a wider gap without missing.  
     A wider gap is generally a "good thing" because it's that much more 
     spark exposed to the fuel/air mixture allowing more reliable, 
     complete, powerful, and efficient combustion.  You could still run the 
     lower gap, you'd just be cheating yourself out of a free bonus!
     
     Tom L.
     tlentz@teknon.com


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: More on my fubar 350
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/26/96 10:05 PM


I would just like to know if someone can tell me what the plug gap should be 
when using HEI .  I was also wondering why the HEI requires a wider gap. 
Will the plugs burn up otherwise?

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 20:21:01 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Transmission fluids 

     I've had similar good experiences with synthetic ATF.  I'm not 100% 
     sure the synthetic is to blame for everything good I've experienced, 
     so I haven't mentioned it until now, but it somwhat paralells what 
     you've seen.
     
     The 200-4R in my '84 H/O shifted a bit lazy and worse of all wouldn't 
     downshift well and seemed not to want to unlock the TCC after coming 
     off of a freeway trip of more than a few miles.  The fluid in it 
     seemed okay, but it was a bit overfull.  After pumping out about a 
     half a quart it was still a bit overfull and still exibited the 
     problem.  Not knowing how long the old stuff had been in there, I had 
     it changed and used Castrol synthetic ATF (I think it was around 
     $20-$25) since I couldn't find Mobil synth ATF (my first choice).  I 
     had 'em change the diff gear lube too, but didn't use synth there 
     because I'm planing on taking it apart to put in a posi carrier very 
     soon anyways.
     
     All the problems went away, and it shifts _very_ nicely.  Like Dan, I 
     also noticed more consistent operation when up to temp.  Cold morning 
     operation is more consistent too.  It's only been about 8k miles, but 
     the fluid looks brand new still.  I don't know for certain that a 
     fluid change with any old ATF wouldn't have done the same thing, but 
     still I'm very happy with the synth. ATF and feel I got my money's 
     worth.
     
     Tom L.
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Transmission fluids
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/26/96 6:21 PM

I converted my '84 1/2 700R4 transmission over to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF 
back in 1993 with 65,000 miles on it.  I had it torn down and inspected, 
and had the 2-4 shift band replaced.  When the band was worn in (approx. 
500 miles) I experienced quicker shifts, and more consistant operation 
when the transmission got up to temp. (no more slush-o-matic operation)
     
I now have another 65,000 miles on the car in which I have autocrossed, 
drag raced, and generally acted like a hoon. (Australian lingo for 
hell-raiser.)  It looks like brand new fluid, smells like brand new 
fluid, and generally performs like the day I poured it in.  And the
'84 700R4 transmission shows no signs of old age.

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 04:10:57 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: HEI's, points conversions

> The 66 Toro and Mike wrote:

> Prolly so.  LEDs have a pretty long life expectancy -- like 100 years.
> Sound like Mallory may have had a design problem.  But I'd agree that 
> it's hard to beat mag/coil for reliability.

The LED:s may die if exposed to high temperatures while operating.
Typically a temperature of 190 degrees (inside the case) will destroy
the component. I agree that a coil is a wise choice to put into the
infernal operating conditions under the hood.

When I had this Saab-stuff, I constructed a spark-booster for that
poor thing. The good this in this is that you can use the original
points. If somebody is interested on this subject, I can tell more about
it and write building instructions for it. The unit is wery simple
and requires just a little understanding on electronics.

- -- 
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile 98  1964  4D HT                 *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 05:53:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: HEI's, points conversions

Well I've had my mallory unilite distributor for a bit over a year now 
and so far nothing but smooth timing.  That all may change though, I've 
yet to see whether it'll fire up with my new engine!

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 06:42:28 -0300
Subject: >>MELLING PUMP/TORO PAN OWNERS!!!<<

Has ANYONE found a place other than Mondello that sells the bolt on 
melling "box" style pickups (PU-1 in JM's catalog)?  Do I REALLY have to 
pay 35 bucks for it?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: lew@kbp.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:35:56 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:27:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

Chris Urban wrote:
> 
> Its a straight forward bolt on. Remove your existing valvetrain rockers and 
then screw in the studs and guide plates, attach the new rockers and yes 
pushrods m


Chris,
	I remember you saying that this was offered by Comp.Cams . Do you have 
a part no for this 
kit? Second, are you supposed to specify the push rod length or the year? 
Reason asking, is 
because I have #5 heads on my '72 350. Is there any difference between the 
rocker surface area on 
#5 and #7 heads. If you get to specify the length then thats no problem the 
size is the size, but 
if they want a year then I may have to give them 1968, the year of the #5 
heads instead.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:52:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Vintage Police Cars

> I was in the local book store yesterday and I saw a book on "Vintage Police
> Cars".  I glanced through it and the only picture of an Olds that they had
> was on the very last page.  The caption read something like: "'67 Delmont 88
> with a 425 ci with 365 HP and this put an end to 11 straight years of
> Chrysler police cars".  Not even a paragraph on the car, just a one sentance
> caption.  I checked the index and sure enough that was the only page with
> Oldsmobile.  The other pages were all...uh.... not Oldsmobile.  I was under
> the impression that Olds police cars were around before then.  Does anyone
> know differently?

Well, that caption probably meant in was an end of 11 years of mopar 
police cars at that particular department.   Ford, Oldsmobile, Chevy,
Dodge, and Plymouth all had police car packages during the 60's.
Add Pontiac and Hudson to that group for the 50's.  During the 70's 
it was really on;y mopar, ford, and chevy.

Most departments went with the other manufacturers, the Oldsmobile police
cars were pretty rare, especially in the 60's.

------------------------------

From: Peter_Teubel_at_Safety1st-MA@harte-hanks.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:01:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds diesel truck engine (was: Diesel gears) 

     Now that's suprising.
     
     What catalog are you refering to?  I just might want to get myself a 
     copy....if for nothing else, for that remote oil cooler.  Thanks.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Olds diesel truck engine (was: Diesel gears)
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at ~INTERNET
Date:    8/26/96 5:39 PM


     I would think a truck would be different, since they didn't use the 
     GM-converted-gas-engine diesel.
     
          Not true.  The Chevy/GMC pickups used the Olds 350 diesel 
          until the 6.2 liter "truck" diesel was brought on line in 
          the 80s.  I have a 73-79 Chevy Truck parts book which shows 
          this quite clearly.  That's what makes the 
          Olds-engine-for-Chevy-diesel swap so easy.  In addition, the 
          truck parts book lists some neat stuff, like an oil filter 
          adapter for the diesel (fits any late Olds V8) with tapped 
          fittings for a remote oil cooler!
     
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
     
     
     
     

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:34:24 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Olds diesel truck engine (was: Diesel gears) 

     Now that's suprising.
          
     What catalog are you refering to?  I just might want to get myself a 
     copy....if for nothing else, for that remote oil cooler.  Thanks.
          
          The catalog is the dealer parts book.  Old versions are 
          often available from the dealership (they used to give them 
          away when they got a new one!) or at swap meets (where I got 
          mine).  I picked up the one for the Chevy trucks since I 
          owned a 74 at the time.  I also found Olds parts books 
          covering 65-70.  A great source for assembly drawings and 
          part number listings.  Also a reference for information on 
          obscure options.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          
          
          
          
          
          

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 10:16:24 -0300
Subject: Mallory Unilite Conversion (long)

Folks

I sent a message yesterday but I never saw it posted.  So here it goes
again.

I have actually installed the Mallory Unilite conversion kit in the
distributor of my 69 442.  I will attempt to recall the process for you.

First let me highly reccommend that you take the distributor out of the
car to do the conversion.  I did not and I regret it.

First thing you do is remove the wire that goes from the points to the
coil.  Then remove the points.  (well first you remove the cap and
rotor)  After you remove the points you must remove the grounding wire
that goes between the vacuum advance and the plate that the points bolt
to.  

The Unilite module mounts to a plate and this plate is mounted to the
plate in the distributor that the points were mounted to.  But before
you put the Unilite module on its backing plate you must cover the back
of the module with a white grease.  I assume this is some sort of
electrical insulator. (TAKE OFF THE ADVANCE WEIGHTS AND SPRINGS BEFORE
YOU START ANY OF THIS.  IT MAKES THINGS MUCH EASIER.)

OK now the module is in place.  It has three wires that you run out of
the distributor through the hole that the point to coil wire went
through.  Mallory supplies you with a new gromett. 

Next is a real pain ita if you have the distributor in the car.  You now
have to assemble the 2 piece shutter wheel.  This gizmo is a 2 piece
wheel that has 8 slots in it and it travels through the module and
interrupts a light signal.  This interruption sends a signal to the coil
to fire.  Anyhow this wheel has to be held in just the right way so that
you can run a bolt through the wheel and through the plate that the
advance weights set on and through the rotor.  You then put a nut on top
of the rotor and tighten it down.  There is one bolt (machine screw) on
each side.  But that aint all.  The square peg on the back of the rotor
must be filed down to about 1/8 inch or the rotor won't set right.

Now that you are at this point you are just about finished.  Put the cap
back on and go to the wires.  The three wires have to be put into a
connector.  Two of them are ran to the coil and one to ground.

Remember to retime the car when you are finished.

My Unilite has been working for about 2 months.  I sure hope it doesn't
go bad.  If the module goes bad you are back to square 1.  You will have
to undo everything.  You can't just unbolt the module because it is
attached to a plate and that plate is attached to the point plate.  The
module is connected to its backing plate from the bottom anf therefore
the screws are covered.

If I had it to do again I would use a conversion kit with a magnetic
pickup.  It seems like it would be more reliable.

John Harris
69 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 13:46:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition Kill Switch

Bryceman wrote:
> 
> I was looking at AC/DC switches in a local electronics store today and 
> they had a couple 12v 10amp units. Are these heavy enough to suit my 
> needs?

Don't know what the current requirements for the HEI are but judging by 
the guage of the wire, 10amps should be fine.  BTW, any switch rated 12v 
or higher will work.  A 120v 10a at a better price?  ...buy it.  Also, 
marine supply stores have a ton of 12v stuff.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 13:55:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Mallory Unilite Conversion (long)

John Harris wrote:
> 
> But before you put the Unilite module on its backing plate you must 
> cover the back of the module with a white grease.  I assume this is 
> some sort of electrical insulator. 

It's to aid heat transfer from the module to the plate.  The same thing 
is done when replacing output transistors in your radio or amp.

> This gizmo is a 2 piece wheel that has 8 slots in it and it travels 
> through the module and interrupts a light signal.

Back to the reliability thing: I would suspect that dirt/soot/etc 
(esp if Sparky was working on the wiring) could also be a problem with 
this type of pickup.  Smoke detectors that use this same technology start 
to get wacky after a bit as their optical sensors get crudded up.

> If I had it to do again I would use a conversion kit with a magnetic
> pickup.  It seems like it would be more reliable.

Agreed.  Good info, John.  Thanks.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:53:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition Kill Switch 

>     I did exactly what you are intending to do and the toggle switch used
>was the same rating. Been about 6 years now and have had no problems.
>Incidentally, be creative about the location of that switch as it is an
>excellent theft deterrent.

A friend of mine with a Ch*vy Z-28 uses the hide-in-plain-sight approach:
the car won't start if the switch for "rear defog" isn't on. The idea is
that the thieves probably won't notice that the car doesn't _have_ a rear
defogger.  ;-)

The switch is a toggle type used for the fan-forced rear defogger. You
could probably rig something to work with the grid type of defogger that 
uses a momentary switch to start a timer -- have it closed an untimed 
relay, for instance.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:57:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Followup: Trunk Lamp and Strange Tabs on Back Seat 

>These tabs are shown on page 14-99 of the '72 Fisher body manual.  The
>illustration is for "B & E" convertibles.  They are called "front seat
>shoulder belt retainers".  Shows only one per side (naturally).  Does not
>show a tab at the bottom of the armrest.  Don't know why you have so many.
> There is no illustration for "A" convertibles.

Anything in the owner's manual? Our '69 blathered on at some length
about the _overhead_ clips and the exact way you were supposed to fold
the shoulder straps when not in use (fold the tab back so it's between
the roof and the outer fold of the belt). Even had an illustration.
Maybe there's a mention of stowing belts in convertibles that refers
to those mysterious clips? I'll check my copies of old manuals if I
can still find them...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:42:07 -0300
Subject: Re: More on my fubar 350

At 06:42 PM 7/26/96 +0000, you wrote:
>
>I would just like to know if someone can tell me what the plug gap should be
>when using HEI .  I was also wondering why the HEI requires a wider gap.
>Will the plugs burn up otherwise?
>
- ---------------
I installed an HEI from Performance Distributors, Inc.  The vacuum advance
curve was custom set by them based on my engine, cam, carburetor, etc.  They
recommend a gap of .050 - .055.  I opened my plugs to .050 but that's
stetching the electrode a bit.  I'll try the AC R46SX plugs as recommended
by some earlier.  Has anyone seen any ET reduction with an HEI?  Like to
hear about it.

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 05:13:31 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Ignition Kill Switch 

     I know that my '79 Cutlass had a nice big 'ol rocker switch to the 
     left and below the steering wheel to turn on the cruise control.  If 
     you don't have cruise it might be a good idea to go down to the 
     junkyard and get this switch and use it as a kill switch.  It even has 
     a little light when activated.
     
     It's harder to tell that the car doesn't have cruise without looking 
     under the hood, assuming the theif doesn't also know that there's 
     supposed to be a button on the end of the signal lever also.
     
     I've also tossed around the idea of hooking a relay up to the starter, 
     activated by the brake lights.  So you'd have to step on the brakes to 
     start the car.  I know some new cars work this way (got stranded and 
     confused for about 10 minutes in a F*rd rental that wouldn't shift out 
     of park until I stepped on the brake.... argh!).  I suppose you could 
     hook it up to any other 12v accessory too (turn signal, lights, etc.).
     
     If you put a kill switch or relay in, make sure that you have some way 
     to bypass it should the switch ever fail in the middle of nowhere.  
     Like being able to pull the wires off the back of the switch and 
     connect them together.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Ignition Kill Switch
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/27/96 7:21 AM
     
The switch is a toggle type used for the fan-forced rear defogger. You 
could probably rig something to work with the grid type of defogger that 
uses a momentary switch to start a timer -- have it closed an untimed 
relay, for instance.

------------------------------

From: Ernie Marinko <ernie.marinko@yale.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:21:44 -0300
Subject: Cool Can 

I have heard 2 conflicting opinions on the use of dry ice in a Cool Can.
One said don't use dry ice in a cool can because it will freeze the gas
line.  The other said I can put anti-freeze in with the dry ice, it won't
freeze anything and it will keep the fuel well below the 32 degrees that
regular ice does.  For now I'm just putting regular ice in it.  

The theory behind this is for every 10 degrees you can cool the intake
charge you gain 1 percent in horse power.  If you have a 300 HP engine and
cool the fuel 20 degrees you just gained 6 cheep ponies.   Anybody have any
experience with using dry ice in a cool can?  

PS: Thanks for all the input on cylinder head installation with power
brakes.  I discovered in doing this that you must hold the last pushrod in
the hole while you place the head on the engine.  If you put the head on
first the brake booster will be in the way and you can't put the pushrod in. 
 
- ---------------
Ernie Marinko
Library Systems
27258

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:22:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Ignition Kill Switch 

>     I've also tossed around the idea of hooking a relay up to the starter, 
>     activated by the brake lights.  So you'd have to step on the brakes to 
>     start the car.

Oooh, I like that one.

Only thing I would add to that is that I'd run the power for the relay
through the starter interlock, so that the relay only operated when the
car was in Park or Neutral, not every effing time you stepped on the brake,
to cut down on wear and tear on the relay.

>  I know some new cars work this way (got stranded and 
>     confused for about 10 minutes in a F*rd rental that wouldn't shift out 
>     of park until I stepped on the brake.... argh!).

The shift unlock solenoid triggered by the brake pedal is wired this way;
you hear the quiet "clunk" of it unlocking when you step on the brake only
when the shifter is in Park to begin with.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:35:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Headers for 67 Cutlass 

>I can't think of a reason why the headers for a 350  shouldn't work. Hooker
>and Hedman both have part numbers for small block headers.
>
>Boyd Parker (aka Rocketeer)

Boyd, Hooker and Heddman do not list 350 headers for a 67 they do list them
for 68-on. I tried the 68 headers and they hit the crossmember (too much
bending required for a fit). That's why I was asking about the 400 headers.
My speed shop is very good at letting me return items, so I ordered the 400
headers to try them out, I'll post the results next week. Thanks

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: Tom Waldron <tomw@harborside.teleres.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:03:00 -0300
Subject: Tach on '84 H/O

The tach on my '84 H/O is reading too high. Is there any way I can adjust   
it to where it should be? It's a little unnerving to be red-lining at   
60mph.

Tom Waldron  tomw@harborside.teleres.com
'84 H/O  

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:14:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Tach on '84 H/O 

>The tach on my '84 H/O is reading too high. Is there any way I can adjust   
>it to where it should be? It's a little unnerving to be red-lining at   
>60mph.

Any chance that the circuit board jumper is set for 6 cylinders instead
of 8?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:50:10 -0300
Subject: Reply to: Re: Hey Toro owners... need advice -Reply 

Alas, It is not as good as originally thought.  $1800 is about what it's
worth.  But he thinks it's worth $3000+  He's a crazy, sentimental fool.

>>> REGGIE GOBLE <REGGIE_GOBLE_4@wow.com> 08/25/96 09:43am
>>>
BUY THE CAR OR GIVE ME HIS ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBER. I WILL
TRAVEL TO PICK IT UP IF AS GOOD AS YOU SAY. HOW LONG HAS IT
SAT WITHOUT BEING CRANKED OR DRIVEN FOR ANY DISTANCE?
1800 IS A STEAL IF AS YOU SAY. ONE MANS TRASH IS ANOTHER
MANS TREASURE.  REGGIE GOBLE
STAFFORD VA

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 20:47:03 -0300
Subject: Bucket Seat Q's 

Hey, did my mail server go down? Or is everyone just taking an
afternoon siesta?

Question #1:
 Does anyone know which cars I can get buckets from that are the same
as what would have been put in a '72 Cutlass Supreme?

Question #2:
 I noticed in Year One and other catalogs that they sell bucket mounting
brackets for doing the bench-to-bucket conversion.  Are these mounting
brackets the same as what would be in the car that originally had the
buckets?  Is there some structural difference in the way they were
mounted that requires the use of these brackets?

Question #3:
 Has anyone done a bench-to-bucket conversion using these aftermarket
mounting brackets?  How'd it turn out?  Does the installation look clean?
Was it easy?  Does it look different than the original bucket mounting? 
Do they mount firm and stay firm?  Do you wish you had kept the bench?
=)

Thanks everyone... wherever you are...

- -Blaine 
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 15:41:37 -0300
Subject: 1970 heads; Was: Couple of things 

These heads might have the (induction) hardened seats if the valve retainers 
are
actually valve rotators and the heads have the deep spring pockets 
(requirement 
for the rotators).  They are probably hardened.

My experience comes from a rather plain '70 D88 w/2bbl 455 w/40-50k of '85 to 
'87 very low lead leaded gas.  The car was run hard a good amount of the 
time.  
The valves and seats were in perfect order.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- ----------
The #6 heads are stock for a 1970 350; they are small-chamber, good-flowing
sb heads w/o hardened exhaust seats. You only really need to install hardened 
exhaust seats if you are doing major head work anyway;

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:09:29 -0300
Subject: (CRAP! , I Erased It!) 1968 442 parts! 

Hello again,
  I recently wrote a message to the board that I was looking for some parts 
to my '68 442 convertable; I received a return on this, but credited to my 
quick fingers and stupidity, the message has been erased!  They were (BESIDES 
the Convertable QUARTERS - ANYBODY HAVE ANY OF THOSE - CONTACT ME!!!!)  the 
rear wheel stainless trims for the rear wheel wells, the pop metal pieces 
that go at the end of the stainless trim that runs along the top of the side 
body panels (up near the headlights), and a rear brake light assembly (red 
plastic) for the passenger side.  I'd appreciate any contacts from any of us 
private owners, or any leads to where I might be able to find parts, 
especially the convertable quarters.  

P.S. - TO THE PERSON WHO PREVIOUSLY CONTACTED ME ABOUT THE PARTS, PLEASE 
WRITE BACK!  SORRY, DIDN'T MEAN TO shout.

                                                  Thank you all,
                                                   Craig Dobbins
                                                    '68 442 convertable

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:10:32 -0300
Subject: OIL and LUBES 



------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:27:47 -0300
Subject: Re: (CRAP! , I Erased It!) 1968 442 parts!

> ...the message has been erased!

                * WARNING * DO NOT DELETE * WARNING * 
Craig,

That was prolly me, re: Cutlass Boneyard.  I still have your requests.  
As soon as I can back over to that side of town during business hours, 
I'll investigate.  I'll let you know what I find out.

> SORRY, DIDN'T MEAN TO shout.

No problem.  I've got the intensity on my monitor turned down.   ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


> P.S. - TO THE PERSON WHO PREVIOUSLY CONTACTED ME ABOUT THE PARTS, PLEASE
> WRITE BACK!  
> 
>                                                   Thank you all,
>                                                    Craig Dobbins
>                                                     '68 442 convertable

- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 11:29:24 -0300
Subject: OIL and LUBES 

Hi everybody,
  Sorry about that first message sent in -- no content!  I just wondered if 
any older Olds owners had any recommendations on what type of Oil is the 
Best?  I've recently read a current issue of Consumer's Reports which stated 
that "all oil is the same" just so long as it has the star shaped symbol on  
the bottle wich indicates that it passes all regulations.  However, just 
recently someone posted a letter saying that Quaker State isn't any good 
because it leaves a waxy build-up on your engine parts; this was stated to be 
because of the base of the oil.  Just to let you all know who haven't read 
the issue, Consumer's Reports tested SEVERAL different oil types (including 
Quaker State) in NY City taxi cabs for 100,000 miles (making regular oil 
changes), and then ripped apart the engines and measured the cylinder walls  
with a micrometer to measure for wear.  NO oil did better than any other, and 
no additive (Slick 50 for example) helped in preventing engine wear.  Now, I 
still think something like DuraLube can prevent problems that are the RESULT 
of a breakdown of the oil vescosity or lack of lubrication (What do you 
think?),  BUT, I'm not really sure about the oil thing.  I informed by the 
previous letter on the mailing list that Pennzoil and Castrol are the best to 
use,  ANY OPINIONS ON THIS?  Also, when greasing our chassis, does anyone 
have any experience with one name brand grease providing better protection 
than another?  I just usually use what's on sale.  I was wondering about 
this, and I kinds though that a little Q and A session about this might help 
us all out.

                                                  Talk Later,
                                                   Craig Dobbins  

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:41:57 -0300
Subject: Marine Supply Stores 

That is a very good suggestion!  It is worth a trip to your local marine 
supply store just to check out the hardware, tools and paint they have.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- ------------------
Also,  marine supply stores have a ton of 12v stuff.

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:00:56 -0300
Subject: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>>> Craig Dobbins <kissrulz@gnn.com> 08/27/96 08:29am >>>
>Hi everybody,
>  Sorry about that first message sent in -- no content!  I just wondered if
> any older Olds owners had any recommendations on what type of Oil
>is the  Best?  I've recently read a current issue of Consumer's Reports
>which stated  that "all oil is the same" just so long as it has the star
>shaped symbol on   the bottle wich indicates that it passes all
>regulations.  <SNIP>

Craig, I saw this Consumer Reports on cable about a month ago.  They
also stated that the oil in these taxi cabs was only changed every 7000
(?) miles and that the wear was very minimal.  What the report was
trying to tell us is that it's a big waste of money to change our oil every
3000 miles like everyone recommends, because it's not really
neccessary.   I also read in another article once that oil never really
breaks down if it's kept clean -- it only get contaminated.  One guy ran
over 100,000 miles and never changed his oil... only his toiletpaper roll
filter.   Hmm...

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:54:54 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES

On 27 Aug 96 at 11:29, Craig Dobbins wrote:
>  I just wondered if ... had any recommendations on what type of Oil is
> the Best?  
> I informed by the previous letter on the mailing list that Pennzoil 
> and Castrol are the best to use,  ANY OPINIONS ON THIS?  

Craig - 

Careful!  You may start an oil war with severe marketing by members 
hawking their Multi-Level marketing Stuff!

Just kidding.  Even though my car is a newer (a '91) I thought I'd 
share some comments on Castrol.  I started out changing my oil with 
Castrol around 6,000 miles on the clock.  I had previously used it on 
my Ciera GT without problems and figured it would work well.  Well, 
after a few times through the oil change cycle, I noticed that the 
car would perform a lot better right after the oil change, and remain 
at that performance level for about 2,000 miles.  After that, the car 
would perform sorta sluggishly.  The oil pressure didn't seem to stay 
up, either.  

My car has the H.O. Quad4, which I think may be more suseptable to 
difference in oils viscosity than the larger engines.  I'm not sure, 
but changing the brand of oil changed the performance difference - 
Quaker State prolonged the performance gain to over 3,000 miles 
(about 3500) and using the synthetic even better (I recently was 
negligent and went 3 months (6,000) miles without changing the oil 
and had no noticeable difference.)  

As I type this, I also remember the gas mileage decreasing between 
the oil changing cycles, so this may support this.

I wouldn't recommend changing to a synthetic if you have over 60k 
miles on your car since it flows better and may find some weak spots 
you didn't know about yet -

just my .02.

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 08:48:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Headers for 67 Cutlass

At 12:35 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Boyd, Hooker and Heddman do not list 350 headers for a 67 they do list them
>for 68-on. 

Just thumbing through my Summit catalog, here...they have the "Summit", uh,
brand(?) headers listed for a 64-73 Pontiac Tempest 326-455, $79.50 a pair.
Disclaimer says "For offroad and racing use only", though.  

They should fit, huh folks?  Both are A-body cars (Tempest and Cutlass). 
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 08:54:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: HEI's, points conversions

At 04:10 AM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:

>When I had this Saab-stuff, I constructed a spark-booster for that
>poor thing. The good this in this is that you can use the original
>points. If somebody is interested on this subject, I can tell more about
>it and write building instructions for it. The unit is wery simple
>and requires just a little understanding on electronics.

Yes, please tell more...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 15:18:35 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>What the report was
>trying to tell us is that it's a big waste of money to change our oil every
>3000 miles like everyone recommends, because it's not really
>neccessary.

I read that, too, but I'm not convinced. We do a lot more cold starts and
short trips than those taxis. 7K oil changes may be fine for those taxis
(at least, long change intervals are probably the least of the taxi problems)
but not for private cars.

Someone else complained in the reader letters column of the following issue,
now on sale, about how their test didn't really resemble common use of the
oil in non-taxi conditions, and they gave what I thought was a rather lame
reply about how hard acceleration and long idling periods should also wear
out an engine the way frequent cold starts could.

>I also read in another article once that oil never really
>breaks down if it's kept clean -- it only get contaminated.

What, theory being that if it's translucent, it's good? There's a bit more
to it than that, IMHO; there are additives to consider, how long they last
before degrading or wearing out, etc.

>One guy ran
>over 100,000 miles and never changed his oil... only his toiletpaper roll
>filter.   Hmm...

Oh, jeez, yeah, there's one of those guys infesting misc.consumers, I think.
Ralph somebody. He never gets around to answering specific questions on lab
results, etc, despite numerous requests.

My personal unscientific routine is 1500-mile (eek!) oil changes with
AC-Delco oil (if I can find it) and filter, or Valvoline if the AC-Delco
is sold out. This costs me roughly the cost of a case of beer or less,
every other month, which is an expense I can live with...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:14:27 -0300
Subject: FAQ Suggestion (differentials)

Since I have been searching around for info on differentials,  I think
that there should be a sectionin the FAQ about them.  What do you think?
 Who out therre knows abouth these odd ball Olds rear ends.

It seems as though Olds went ape sh-- crazy in 68, 69, and 70.  They
decided to build their own thing.  i.e. not standard and won't
interchange with a thing.

I am still tracking down a posi carrier for my 69 442.  Of course let me
specify.  I am tracking down the small carrier.  There was a large
carrier and a small carrier.  The large was 3.42 and up.  The small was
3.23 and down.  Richmond Gear is the only company that I know of that
makes gears for these rear ends.  They make gears for the 3.23 and
smaller carrier.  They make 3.42, 3.90, and 4.10 ratios for the small
carrier.

These carriers have 12 bolts on the cover and 10 bolts on the ring gear.
 I think the ring gear is 8.5 inches and in 69 I think the axles have 28
splines.  Sounds like a chevy but it aint.  It is enough different that
nothing will fit.  That means don't let some one sell you a posi carrier
unless they know what they are talking about.  I have called a bunch of
places and have had folks look in a catalog and they think just because
I have a 8.5 inch ring gear with 10 bolts and 28 spline axle that there
are bunches of posi carriers.  BEWARE..  

The Bryceman page had an update to the tech section about supertuning
68, 69, and 70 W-machines and there was some info in there about axles
and differentials.  It sounded like Olds had different axles in 68 and
69.  Different number of splines and different diameters.

What exactly is the difference between the 3.42 and up carrier and the
3.23 and down carrier??  Who knows?  You can not interchange ring and
pinions.

Just my thoughts.  What do yall think.

John Harris 69 442

------------------------------

From: John Harris <John.Harris@rttc.redstone.army.mil>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:31:52 -0300
Subject: FAQ Suggestion (differentials)

Date: Tue, 27 Aug 96 13:48:54 -0500
Message-Id: <H000018e004ce042@MHS>
Subject: FAQ Suggestion (differentials)
TO: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Encoding: 37 text

Since I have been searching around for info on differentials,  I think
that there should be a sectionin the FAQ about them.  What do you think?
 Who out therre knows abouth these odd ball Olds rear ends.

It seems as though Olds went ape sh-- crazy in 68, 69, and 70.  They
decided to build their own thing.  i.e. not standard and won't
interchange with a thing.

I am still tracking down a posi carrier for my 69 442.  Of course let me
specify.  I am tracking down the small carrier.  There was a large
carrier and a small carrier.  The large was 3.42 and up.  The small was
3.23 and down.  Richmond Gear is the only company that I know of that
makes gears for these rear ends.  They make gears for the 3.23 and
smaller carrier.  They make 3.42, 3.90, and 4.10 ratios for the small
carrier.

These carriers have 12 bolts on the cover and 10 bolts on the ring gear.
 I think the ring gear is 8.5 inches and in 69 I think the axles have 28
splines.  Sounds like a chevy but it aint.  It is enough different that
nothing will fit.  That means don't let some one sell you a posi carrier
unless they know what they are talking about.  I have called a bunch of
places and have had folks look in a catalog and they think just because
I have a 8.5 inch ring gear with 10 bolts and 28 spline axle that there
are bunches of posi carriers.  BEWARE..  

The Bryceman page had an update to the tech section about supertuning
68, 69, and 70 W-machines and there was some info in there about axles
and differentials.  It sounded like Olds had different axles in 68 and
69.  Different number of splines and different diameters.

What exactly is the difference between the 3.42 and up carrier and the
3.23 and down carrier??  Who knows?  You can not interchange ring and
pinions.

Just my thoughts.  What do yall think.

John Harris 69 442

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:44:57 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply

- ----------
> From: Blaine Sanders 5483 
>What the report was
> trying to tell us is that it's a big waste of money to change our oil
every
> 3000 miles like everyone recommends, because it's not really
> neccessary.   I also read in another article once that oil never really
> breaks down if it's kept clean -- it only get contaminated.  One guy ran
> over 100,000 miles and never changed his oil... only his toiletpaper roll
> filter.   Hmm...

Yes, oil remains oil ... it just gets dirty. Also the additives
(detergents, etc.) eventually get used up or worn out.  I had an night
school automotive shop teacher (ex GM dealership mechanic) who drove a Olds
Cutlass Calais.  It had a leaky oil pan and he had to add about 1 quart a
week.  He never changed his oil (just the filter regularly) as he figured
that the quart a week he was adding replenished the additives sufficiently.
 He drove the car over 200,000 miles.  I remain a 3000 mile changer myself,
however.

Incidentally, this guy had some great stories about working in the GM
dealership in the 60s.  Wish I could remember them all.  I do recall though
something about how much the mechanics loved the Toronado when it first
came out.  Also, apparently they used to drop the engine out the bottom if
one needed removing, instead of up top.  Apparently it was easier and
faster to remove one of the crossmembers and suspension components.  I
don't remember the details, however.

Graham Stewart
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca


 

------------------------------

From: dcart@micro.ti.com (Donald B Cart)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 16:58:54 -0300
Subject: Pontiac Newsgroups ? 

 A friend of mine, honest it's not me, has seen our Olds list
and is interested to know if there's one like it for Pontiacs.
A Pontiac newgroup would also be applicable.  Anybody come
accross one lately ?

 No doubt it can't be as good as this list, but he's a Pontiac
guy and not an Olds guy.

Thanks,
Don
(dcart@ti.com)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:04:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Bucket Seat Q's

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> Hey, did my mail server go down? Or is everyone just taking an
> afternoon siesta?
> 
> Question #1:
>  Does anyone know which cars I can get buckets from that are the same
> as what would have been put in a '72 Cutlass Supreme?

I believe that any GM 1968-72 except Vega, Corvair, Corvette, & Chevy 
Nova .  The tracks vary so if you need them they come w/Cutlass, 
Skylark, Lemans, & Chevelle.
> 
> Question #2:
>  I noticed in Year One and other catalogs that they sell bucket mounting
> brackets for doing the bench-to-bucket conversion.  Are these mounting
> brackets the same as what would be in the car that originally had the
> buckets?  Is there some structural difference in the way they were
> mounted that requires the use of these brackets?

Don't know about Year One.  Braces may be needed on tunnel side of seat 
for brackets.
> 
> Question #3:
>  Has anyone done a bench-to-bucket conversion using these aftermarket
> mounting brackets?  How'd it turn out?  Does the installation look clean?
> Was it easy?  Does it look different than the original bucket mounting?

I'm sure that it looks good, but I've never done it or seen it done.

> Do they mount firm and stay firm?  Do you wish you had kept the bench?
> =)
> 
> Thanks everyone... wherever you are...
> 
> -Blaine
> '72 Cutlass Supreme

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:15:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Headers for 67 Cutlass

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> At 12:35 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
> 
> >Boyd, Hooker and Heddman do not list 350 headers for a 67 they do list them
> >for 68-on.
> 
> Just thumbing through my Summit catalog, here...they have the "Summit", uh,
> brand(?) headers listed for a 64-73 Pontiac Tempest 326-455, $79.50 a pair.
> Disclaimer says "For offroad and racing use only", though.
> 
> They should fit, huh folks?  Both are A-body cars (Tempest and Cutlass).
> --
> Dave Paulison       


The body might be happy, but what about the differences in the engines?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 17:21:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Pontiac Newsgroups ? 

At 04:58 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
> A friend of mine, honest it's not me, has seen our Olds list
>and is interested to know if there's one like it for Pontiacs.
>A Pontiac newgroup would also be applicable.  Anybody come
>accross one lately ?
>


There is a Camaro/Firebird (GM F-body) maillist

         send requests to majordomo@cisco.com, command is
         subscribe f-body-digest

I don't know if there is a Pontiac mailing list.


J. Todd Hall                         
Cleveland, OH       
1972 4-4-2        

"If you ever drop your keys into a river of molten lava, let'em go, 
 because, man, they're gone." 
                                    

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 12:22:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Pontiac Newsgroups ?

Donald B Cart wrote:
> 
>  A friend of mine, honest it's not me, has seen our Olds list
> and is interested to know if there's one like it for Pontiacs.
> A Pontiac newgroup would also be applicable.  Anybody come
> accross one lately ?
> 
>  No doubt it can't be as good as this list, but he's a Pontiac
> guy and not an Olds guy.
> 
> Thanks,
> Don
> (dcart@ti.com)


Don:

I believe that I have seen one somewhere.  Too bad about being a Pontiac 
guy.  Someone has to be 2nd best or 3rd or whatever.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 10:04:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Headers for 67 Cutlass

At 12:15 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>64-73 Pontiac Tempest 326-455, $79.50 a pair.

>The body might be happy, but what about the differences in the engines?

Well it has one listing for all engine sizes, 326-455.  I suppose you'd have
to call them to find out if they have different part #'s for different
engine sizes.  The Pontiac and Olds small blocks should be the same
dimensionally, shouldn't they?  So if they have one that fits a '67 Pontiac
350, it should fit an '67 Olds 350.  

Don't think for a minute that I know what I'm talking about here; I'm just
throwing ideas out.  If there's anybody who knows how true/untrue the above
babble is, please confirm/correct.  Thanks!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 13:43:55 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

Andrew,
  I agree fully with your idea about the changes, 7000 miles is way too much. 
 I've never heard of AC-Delco oil.  And IMHO, I can not believe that AC-Delco 
has their own refinery to make their own oil; it's gotta be purchased from 
another supplier and then packaged under their own name.  Did you read the 
letter page that talked about Quaker State coating the engine with a waxy 
substance (I can't remember exactly what they (HE - The guy that wrote the 
letter) called it.  But it was the same stuff that is used to seal fruit 
preserves in jars, you know that wax layer on top (homemade preserves)).  
Where do you find the AC-Delco oil anyway, and what weight do you use?

                                                     Craig Dobbins.

                                                        
>Date:		Tue, 27 Aug 1996 15:18:35 -0300
>From:	"Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply
>
>>What the report was
>>trying to tell us is that it's a big waste of money to change our oil
> every
>>3000 miles like everyone recommends, because it's not really
>>neccessary.
>
>I read that, too, but I'm not convinced. We do a lot more cold starts and
>short trips than those taxis. 7K oil changes may be fine for those taxis
>(at least, long change intervals are probably the least of the taxi
> problems)
>but not for private cars.
>
>Someone else complained in the reader letters column of the following
> issue,
>now on sale, about how their test didn't really resemble common use of the
>oil in non-taxi conditions, and they gave what I thought was a rather lame
>reply about how hard acceleration and long idling periods should also wear
>out an engine the way frequent cold starts could.
>
>>I also read in another article once that oil never really
>>breaks down if it's kept clean -- it only get contaminated.
>
>What, theory being that if it's translucent, it's good? There's a bit more
>to it than that, IMHO; there are additives to consider, how long they last
>before degrading or wearing out, etc.
>
>>One guy ran
>>over 100,000 miles and never changed his oil... only his toiletpaper roll
>>filter.   Hmm...
>
>Oh, jeez, yeah, there's one of those guys infesting misc.consumers, I
> think.
>Ralph somebody. He never gets around to answering specific questions on lab
>results, etc, despite numerous requests.
>
>My personal unscientific routine is 1500-mile (eek!) oil changes with
>AC-Delco oil (if I can find it) and filter, or Valvoline if the AC-Delco
>is sold out. This costs me roughly the cost of a case of beer or less,
>every other month, which is an expense I can live with...
>
>Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
>Datalogics, Inc.
>441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473
>
>

------------------------------

From: LRoss922@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 17:45:09 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe 

I want to unsubscribe from the mailing list, I will re-subscribe to the list
in the future
thank you.
LRoss922@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 10:18:54 -0300
Subject: Newsgroups (No Olds content)

Warning!! This post has no Olds content (though it does have Pontiac).
Delete it if you don't want to read it!  Thank you!

You can search for newsgroups at:

www.cen.uiuc.edu/cgi-bin/find.news

Type in your search string (pontiac, or whatever), it will list all
newsgroups with that string in them.  I tried pontiac, no matches were
found.  You might try pon, pont, or anything else like that.

You can search for mailing lists at:

www.liszt.com

Again, I tried pontiac and got no matches.

- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 10:21:19 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply

At 01:43 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Andrew,
>Quaker State coating the engine with a waxy 
>substance (I can't remember exactly what they (HE - The guy that wrote the 
>letter) called it.  But it was the same stuff that is used to seal fruit 
>preserves in jars,

Paraffin wax??
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:53:45 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Headers for 67 Cutlass 

At 12:35 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
          
          
Just thumbing through my Summit catalog, here...they have the "Summit", uh, 
brand(?) headers listed for a 64-73 Pontiac Tempest 326-455, $79.50 a pair. 
Disclaimer says "For offroad and racing use only", though.  
          
They should fit, huh folks?  Both are A-body cars (Tempest and Cutlass). 
          
          Yeah, they'll fit fine...so long as you use a _Pontiac_ V-8 
          and not an Olds.
          
          Once again class -- A Chevy 350 is not a Buick 350 is not a 
          Pontiac 350 is not an Olds 350.  The only things they have 
          in common are the distributor cap and the carb bolt pattern.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Oldsman 71 <Oldsman_71@wow.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:00:45 -0300
Subject: subscribe

I sent my "subscribe oldsmobile" letter yesterday,  maybe you did not get it.

                                                          Oldsman 71@wow.com

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 19:05:30 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Headers for 67 Cutlass 

The Pontiac and Olds small blocks should be the same dimensionally, shouldn't 
they?  So if they have one that fits a '67 Pontiac 350, it should fit an '67 
Olds 350. 

       NO NO NO...First of all, there is no such thing as a 67 Olds 350 
       (it was a 330 that year), but more importantly, the two motors 
       are completely different dimentionally.  Block, heads, internal 
       dimentions, port size, spacing, and location, etc.  This isn't 
       Ford or Chrysler where all car lines use the same engine.  In the 
       60s, each GM car line used proprietary engines.  This is what 
       lead to the great Chevy-engine-in-the-Olds lawsuits in the 70s, 
       as GM moved towards the "Corporate Engine" philosophy.  The 
       confusion is somewhat understandable, given today's car lines.  
       Olds even went so far as to develop the "Rocket Block", which is 
       really a HD small block Chevy block with an Olds rocket emblem on 
       the outside but SBC internal dimensions for Olds-bodied race 
       cars.
          
Don't think for a minute that I know what I'm talking about here; I'm just 
throwing ideas out.  If there's anybody who knows how true/untrue the above 
babble is, please confirm/correct.  Thanks!

        That's what we're here for.
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme 
dpauliso@metrolink.net
          
          

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 17:25:28 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>I've never heard of AC-Delco oil.

Yeah, I kept forgetting to ask this here, but now's as good a time as any:

I used to be able to get AC-Delco motor oil at either Trak Auto or K mart
here in the Chicago area, and most likely other stores as well but those
two are within short driving distance of my place. Within the past couple
of months the supply seems to be drying up -- Trak Auto remaindered it at
something like $9/case so I grabbed a bunch of it, and K mart still has
it on the shelf but only a small amount, less than they used to. They had
it in 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 and the price was comparable to Valvoline
and the other major brands.

So anyway, where's it gone? Anyone else still buying it? I used it with
no problems, and hey, if your GM engine breaks due to oil-related problems,
having AC-Delco oil in the crankcase makes for a pretty good bargaining
position as far as trying to get reimbursed for repairs, don'tcha think?

>And IMHO, I can not believe that AC-Delco has their own refinery to make 
>their own oil; it's gotta be purchased from another supplier and then 
>packaged under their own name.

Yeah, no doubt. But if they're offering it, I'll be happy to use it; I just
can't seem to find it all of a sudden.

>Did you read the 
>letter page that talked about Quaker State coating the engine with a waxy 
>substance (I can't remember exactly what they (HE - The guy that wrote the 
>letter) called it.  But it was the same stuff that is used to seal fruit 
>preserves in jars, you know that wax layer on top (homemade preserves)).

Paraffin? Well, yeah, I read that posting; don't know what to make of it,
though. Can't say that I've heard of this problem before...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:40:26 -0300
Subject: Shifters 

72 Cutlass convertible with console and regular automatic shifter...
What is involved in converting it to a Hurst dual gate? I think this would
be an easy conversion, anyone ever do one?

       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:39:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Headers for 67 Cutlass 

>       first of all, there is no such thing as a 67 Olds 350 
>       (it was a 330 that year)
        
>        Joe Padavano
>        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com


Joe, you were right on all parts, but this 67 does have an Olds 350 in it.
It was replaced last year when I trashed the 330 :( But your points are
still correct and they still apply as the 330 and 350 were virtually the same.

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: mike trussell <eagle1@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:10:47 -0300
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 20:47:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifters 

72 Cutlass convertible with console and regular automatic shifter...
What is involved in converting it to a Hurst dual gate? I think this would 
be an easy conversion, anyone ever do one?
          
           Bryce,
          
           It turns out that the factory console has molded-in ridges on the 
           underside to indicate the proper cutout for a dual-gate or factory 
           4-spd.  You will need the shifter (doh!), cable, chrome top plate, 
           and the two woodgrain pieces for the console (they are different 
for 
           the dual-gate).  Bottom line is that if you get the shifter with 
the 
           console (more likely than finding the shifter by itself), it is a 
           very easy conversion.  I did this on a 71 Cutlass.  Any factory 
           service manual for 70-72 will detail this - I can fax you copies of 
           the relevent pages if you send me your fax number.
          
           Joe Padavano
           jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
           66 442
           68 W-30
           69 H/O
           70 W-30
          
          
          

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #281
********************************
 
