To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	07/30/96 10:32:58 AM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #251


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 30 July 1996       Volume 01 : Number 251


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:18:28 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

>I'm not a member of the grammer police,

We don't want you on the Spelling Police, either.

But I believe there's a vacancy in the Trolling Department...  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:38:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Dealer Loses Franchise -- Long

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> GM CAR DEALERS SWAPPING FRANCHISES

Interesting.

I always wanted to grab a couple of those nice metal "Frederick" tags 
they put on the Cadillacs.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:59:06 -0300
Subject: AOL Question

I have an admin question for all of you...

I do *NOT* want to turn this into an AOL-bashing session. However, as 
admin, I have a constant problem with AOL users getting full mailboxes. 
When this happens all of the mail comes back to me. Note that this is 
different from people who initially got introduced to online services 
through AOL and then later hooked up with another provider. These 
accounts are still active; their mailboxes are just too small.

Is there any way these mailboxes can be expanded by the user? I'm pretty 
ruthless in dumping AOL users from the list when their boxes get full but 
I don't like doing it. How much space do they give users for mail anyway?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:02:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Floor Mats 

>Keith Wood is the current owner of the car, and got the whole receipt file
>along with it. If I saved the floormat package (at least the card stapled
>to the top) or the dealer receipt, either would be in that file. I don't
>have Keith's email address handy but you could send mail to Bryceman for
>forwarding; Keith's his manager...
>
Keith Wood's Email address is   kwood@scilab.com

          Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:47:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Yet another......Flaming Oldsmobile

Lisa Madsen wrote:
>
> - he rips her shirt off of her and smothers the fire!  

Great story, Lisa.  But you've got to admit, it was certainly one of the 
most creative ways anybody ever came up with to get a girl's top off.  ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Dan Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:30:25 -0300
Subject: Re: sweet Starfire sighted! 

> When he first arrived he told me he
> bought it for $500 from some old guy and was thinking of selling it for like
> $800 or so. Then the real story came out. Funny guy.
> -Darren Shroeger

don't ya just hate a wise guy???

- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/index.html $
$cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader, 1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973  $
$Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X, 1955 Cadillac Seville, 1969  $
$Cadillac DeVille Convertibles (2), 1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham$
$1961 Imperial Custom, 1973 Buick Riviera                                     $
- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:48:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

Active recruiting has now begun for the Quad4(42) segment of the 
list.  We must overcome!  The Toro guys will be overtaken! (Just 
kidding, the FWD Olds guys with lots o' power should stick together!)

BTW, did anyone see the early '90s Quad442 on ESPN2's IMSA race 
Sunday AM?  It had a good run, with a close 2nd.  Lots of action and 
the guy really kicked butt...

Mike 
'91 W-40 Quad442

Bill Culp wrote:
> At this rate the 1968's will outnumber the Toronado's & then I will 
> have to get another Toronado. 


Mike

------------------------------

From: "AUVAX7::RILES" <RILES%AUVAX7.decnet@auscam.amd.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:11:00 -0300
Subject: How to decipher option list

Anyone,

The handwritten sales receipt for my '71 Cutlass has all options listed by 
code 
number.  Does anyone know how I can decipher these codes to find out exactly 
what options the car was ordered with?

- -Robert

------------------------------

From: dcart@micro.ti.com (Donald B Cart)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:09:41 -0300
Subject: Another Quad4 

You can add me to the list of Quad4 owners.  I have a '91 HO Quad4
in a Calais I-series.  I've seen the Quad4 referred to W-40 and W41,
how do these relate to the HO Quad4 (that is, 180 hp-5 spd) ? 

Also, does anyone know production numbers of the HO Quad4 ?  Don't
see too many of them around town.

Thanks,
Don

------------------------------

From: Michael Blennerhassett <blenner@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:09:25 -0300
Subject: problems w/ new 425

Here is the problem: My 66 Toro 425 was completely rebuilt to factory
specs by local machine shop. I put it back in, hooked it up, and it ran
very very roughly, will not idle with timing set at 8-10 degrees advanced
(and I did match the spark to the compression stroke, not the exhaust
stroke), engine will rev up, drops back to stall/stumble along. 

No vacuum - 4-5 inches at the sort-of-idle.  The engine will run faster, 
can run up to 18, 19 inches at 1500 rpm.

I thought the might be a problem (orig. QJet) due to extreme wear evident
in primary axle shafts, even leaky well plugs, although the engine was
running well (at 280,000 miles until the timing chain rearranged itself)
with that carb when I took the engine out. I Located a rebuilt carb (that
matched, really!), and put it on last night.  No difference. No vacuum. I
have to keep the idle way up to even keep it lit..  Arrgh!

There are no major vacuum leaks.  New plugs.  dwell is 30 degrees.  firing
order checked was checked by 2 people.  The compression was around 200 psi
on the test stand.  Oil pressure is 60 psi cold (we're at 80 F) and drops
to 30 hot.  No binding in the belt driven accessories. 

Anybody got an idea?  I hate to have to take this to someone, and I'm out 
of ideas..


Michael (no,. not that one, the one in Canada)

*** without  a running 1966 Toro ***

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:13:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

Mike Coccagna wrote:
> 
> ...the FWD Olds guys with lots o' power should stick together!)

Agreed!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:16:16 -0300
Subject: Re: AOL Question

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> Is there any way these mailboxes can be expanded by the user?

Dunno but I expect they can ... for a price!  That's one reason why I use 
and recommend an *independent* Internet Service Provider (ISP).

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:24:20 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

> >I'm not a member of the grammer police,
> 
> We don't want you on the Spelling Police, either.
> 
> But I believe there's a vacancy in the Trolling Department...  :-)
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431

We'll I finally dumped that piece of junk Oldsmobile and got me
a nice Saab with a Chevy engine... ;)

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1996 Saab           
lawrencr@gdls.com |   __,~--,__\____  
(810) 825-5450    |  /      |~ |    \  
Sterling Hts., MI |  =-(o)------(o)--= 

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:34:14 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

Robert Lawrence wrote:
> 
> We'll I finally dumped that piece of junk Oldsmobile and got me
> a nice Saab with a Chevy engine... ;)

UNSUBSCRIBE THE TRAITOROUS BUGGER!

The 66 Toro and Mike    ;)


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Dave Voorhis <dave@armchair.mb.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:39:26 -0300
Subject: Re: problems w/ new 425 

At 01:09 PM 29/07/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Here is the problem: My 66 Toro 425 was completely rebuilt to factory
>specs by local machine shop. I put it back in, hooked it up, and it ran
>very very roughly, will not idle with timing set at 8-10 degrees advanced
>(and I did match the spark to the compression stroke, not the exhaust
>stroke), engine will rev up, drops back to stall/stumble along. 

>Anybody got an idea?  I hate to have to take this to someone, and I'm out 
>of ideas..

Wild guess:

Ignition problem, maybe?  If you're running with points and condenser, I'd
try substituting both for known good ones.  Try a different coil, too.

The fact that the symptoms appeared immediately after rebuild sure makes me
suspect a timing problem, though.

Dave Voorhis, '66 and '67 Toros
dave@armchair.mb.ca
http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:39:53 -0300
Subject: Who Ordered Cars & Parts' 4-4-2 Book? (was Re: How to decipher option 
list) 

>The handwritten sales receipt for my '71 Cutlass has all options listed by
code 
>number.  Does anyone know how I can decipher these codes to find out exactly 
>what options the car was ordered with?

I'm _pretty_ sure this is covered in Cars & Parts' new 4-4-2 numbers book.

Now then, _somebody_ on this list has a copy, or at least should be getting
one in the mail Real Soon Now, since word has got back to me from Amos Press
that at least one person from our list has ordered one-- he mentioned our
email list when phoning in his order, although they can't remember his name 
at the moment. Anybody want to raise their hand?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:50:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442 

Folks,
          
I have a 1969 442.  Right now I have the original wheels and original 
size tires.  I am having mucho wheel spin under full acceleration.  What 
I would like to do is to find some old SSII wheels and have them 
modified to accept a wider tire.  Do any of you know how wide of a tire 
I can get UNDER a 1969 442?  I will need to know the backspacing and 
overall width or the wheel.
          
Thanks
          
John Harris
          
          John,
          
          My 69 H/O has BFG 255/60R15s front and back on the originaly 
          H/O wheels (15" SSII).  I've not had a problem with 
          clearance.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:46:24 -0300
Subject: Re: problems w/ new 425 

>Anybody got an idea?  I hate to have to take this to someone, and I'm out 
>of ideas..

Okay, seeing as you've put a whole 'nuther carb on it with no change in
(missing) vacuum, I'd be interested to see whether there's a leaking base
gasket between carb and manifold (since we can apparently rule out the
carb itself, and there really isn't much else between that and everything
downstream toward the cylinders). So... leaking base gasket or leaking
intake manifold gasket (or a cracked intake manifold)?

Tried the old squirt-something-flammable-around-the-suspect-areas trick?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:55:33 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 W30 faCTOR 

So does anyone have any insights on how to distinguish a '68 W30 
from a plain jane 442?(...snip...)
          
The reason I ask is that when I told Chris Witt about the 1/8" pinstripes 
along the bottom of my dash, he said his W30 had those. Maybe my '68
is a W30 car, he suggested.

          My previous 68 442 (not the current W-30) also had the 
          pinstriping, so this was not unique to W-30s.  Check instead 
          for red plastic fenderwells (as opposed to black) with 4" 
          cutouts for the OAI hoses.  The bumper did not have cutouts, 
          as the scoops went under the bumper.  Cutouts were not in 
          the core support in 68.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
  
          
          
          

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 15:24:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Ninety Eight 1964 4DHT (Hurst) 

>Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
>Hi there :) !
>
>I just joined this mailing robot to see if there is some sense in doing
>so.
>Another reason is my Olds 98 1964 4DHT (Hurst).
>

Welcome!
I have a '65 98, 2 door Auto.
>
>Here is a little story of my Olds:

[SNIP]

>The journey was pleasing with many beautiful wiews. My wife slept in the
>rear seat
>with two of the five children. The rest of us fitted comfortably on the
>front seat.
>Our car is childrens favourite, because they can populate the front seat
>and are able
>to sit thre side-by-side. (Anybody having similar experiences?).

I only have one son, 6 yrs. old, and he LOVES the car! He calls it the
Great White Shark! He helped me replace the water pump... Would have had a
frustrating time of getting the fan shroud back on without him...

>
>At the evening (8pm) the temperature was about 8 degrees below zero. In
>case You don't
>know celcius, the zero point is the point where the water freezes and
>100 degrees over
>zero is the temperature where the water boils. Anyway, it was not too
>cold when we
>arrived.

Having lived in S. California for 5+ years, sounds cold to me...

[SNIP]

I am sure someone on the list can get you the manual...

>The Olds has a clock in it's dashboard and unlike us humans, this thing
>seems to go
>faster as it becomes older. I have not opened the clock (yet) but i will
>do so in the
>near future. Any information about that clock is welcome. Please, don't
>tell me it
>can't be opened. I already know that, but I will open and trim it
>anyway!

Mine doesn't run at all. If you have any tips after you attack yours, let
me know...

Gas is getting a bit more expensive here( at 10 to 15 miles/gallon), how do
you afford to run this car in Finland?!?!?!?

>
>You can contact me directly via:
>Telephone       +358 2040 3439
>Email           esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi
>Snail-Mail      Esko Ilola
>                Ukonkivenpolku 7B5
>                01610 VANTAA
>                FINLAND


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:39:06 -0300
Subject: Re: How to decipher option list

Robert,
If you'll list the codes I'll try to help you.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:08:03 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

>> Dan Lacey writes:
>> >I have been wanting to ask what NOS is....but I won't...
>>
>> It could mean a couple of different things today, right?
>>
>> The standard usage: New Old Stock
>>
>> The new usage: Nitrous Oxide...
>
>N2O is Nitrous Oxide.  I think people mistakenly use NOS for
>N2O, because a lot of people (like me, before I got involved
>with y'all) don't know what NOS means.  And, in a lot of
>the contexts, nitrous oxide kind of fit.
>
>I'm not a member of the grammer police, but it's clearer if
>we use N2O for nitrous oxide and NOS for new old stock.  A lot
>of FAQs (I haven't checked ours, lately), have an acronym section
>to define things like NOS, N2O, FAQ, IMHO, LOL, ROTFL, BTW...
>
>I would suggest we add one (if we don't have one, already), but
>someone may suggest I do it.
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-----
>Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
>lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
>(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
>Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

NOS is used regularly on the hotrod lists for Nitrous Oxide System.

New Old Stock is one I have been trying to figure out on my own for a while
now. I saw it mostly when 442 discussions showed up, and I was assuming it
was some kind of model/option! (OK, enough confessions.)

Don't forget the favorite: WOT - Wide Open Throttle!!!!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:46:53 -0300
Subject: Re: problems w/ new 425 

     Sounds to me like the timing chain is off, maybe they missed it by a 
     tooth or two.  Check it, and while you're at it, degree that cam!
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: problems w/ new 425
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/29/96 9:47 AM


Here is the problem: My 66 Toro 425 was completely rebuilt to factory specs 
by local machine shop. I put it back in, hooked it up, and it ran very very 
roughly, will not idle with timing set at 8-10 degrees advanced (and I did 
match the spark to the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke), engine 
will rev up, drops back to stall/stumble along. 
     
Anybody got an idea?  I hate to have to take this to someone, and I'm out 
of ideas..
     
     

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:46:56 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: FAQ 

     No, no, no.  I belive the proper response to this is:
     
     "Wanna race me for pink slips?"
     
     Then, after he loses the Saab he'll go out and buy himself another 
     olds.
     
     Tom "Saab, the name even _sounds_ slow.  Saaaaab" Lentz


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: FAQ
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/29/96 10:16 AM


Robert Lawrence wrote:
> 
> We'll I finally dumped that piece of junk Oldsmobile and got me 
> a nice Saab with a Chevy engine... ;)
     
UNSUBSCRIBE THE TRAITOROUS BUGGER!
     
     

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:32:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Easybake car parts 

>Dan,
>I met a guy at a car show from Kansas. He had a show 70 w30 with beautiful
>SS1's. The black inserts were perfect.  He said he painted them and put
>them in
>the oven in his kitchen and baked the paint on.  He was really pleased
>with the
>results, but when his wife got home the whole house smelled like paint. He was
>in serious trouble.
>
>Art Fuller

I have seen good results with a toaster oven... For the bigger stuff, you
might just pick up an old oven for the garage (Also good for ceramic
coatings...)

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 15:38:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Ninety Eight 1964  4DHT in Finland 

> When I asked about the bulb changing, I meant the INTERIOR lamps, not the 
lamps
> that are outside the car. The lamp body is ring formed with no visible screws
> outside. The opaque lens inside the ring is very thin and I doubt if it 
could be
> removed some way without crushing it.

Are you talking about the dome light; the light in the center of the
roof?  This is usually held in by two tabs, 180 degrees apart, that are part 
of the plastic cover.  The method of removal is to squeeze the the cover at
the tabs and pull down.  Be careful not to crack the cover, or break a
tab.

How do you know where the tabs are?  Turn the dome light on, and
you can see the shadows.  Of course, if the light is burned out,
then you can't do that.  Of course, the only time you want to
take the cover off is to replace the burned out bulb.  Some help, eh?

There may be some discoloration of the plastic at the tabs, or you may
be able to pry around with a small screwdriver, or just squeeze in
different places.

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v



 

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:42:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442 

>Folks,
>
>I have a 1969 442.  Right now I have the original wheels and original
>size tires.  I am having mucho wheel spin under full acceleration.  What
>I would like to do is to find some old SSII wheels and have them
>modified to accept a wider tire.  Do any of you know how wide of a tire
>I can get UNDER a 1969 442?  I will need to know the backspacing and
>overall width or the wheel.
>
>Thanks
>
>John Harris

Measure the wheel once you get it. Lay the wheel on a level surgace and
measure from the ground to the bolt pattern. Flip the wheel over and
repeat.

Keep the middle of the tire in the same place when you have it modified.

Use a wheel that is about 70% - 80% the width of the tire.
Alternatively, you could put your money into VERY good tires (alot of money).


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:53:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Ninety Eight 1964  4DHT in Finland 

>Are you talking about the dome light; the light in the center of the
>roof?  This is usually held in by two tabs, 180 degrees apart, that are part 
>of the plastic cover.  The method of removal is to squeeze the the cover at
>the tabs and pull down.  Be careful not to crack the cover, or break a
>tab.

As it happens, I have a 1972 dome light lens here on my desk (you'd be
amazed what I have on my desk) (actually, so would I; I really must sort 
through it one of these days) (one of the cleaning crew complained about
tripping over a 1966 Toronado bumper sticking out near the bottom, or so 
he claims), and the lens I have here has three tabs, 120 degrees apart.
 
To figure out what yours has, I would suggest just trying with fingers to
push it a little to one side to peek down the edge of the lens; you should
be able to see something without breaking it.

Back when they are newer and a little more flexible, you can pop the first
tab out by sticking a key down the side of the lens, but I would _not_ try
that with a 32-year-old part. Good luck, and maybe reproduction lenses are
available anyway.  :-)

BTW, are you sure the bulb is burned out, and that the real problem is not
that the fuse has blown because the lighter got stuck in?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:09:42 -0300
Subject: Re: AOL Question 

>I have an admin question for all of you...
>
>I do *NOT* want to turn this into an AOL-bashing session. However, as
>admin, I have a constant problem with AOL users getting full mailboxes.
>When this happens all of the mail comes back to me. Note that this is
>different from people who initially got introduced to online services
>through AOL and then later hooked up with another provider. These
>accounts are still active; their mailboxes are just too small.
>
>Is there any way these mailboxes can be expanded by the user? I'm pretty
>ruthless in dumping AOL users from the list when their boxes get full but
>I don't like doing it. How much space do they give users for mail anyway?
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

I would seriously consider not being on this list if I had an AOL account.
We bounce people off of both of our lists everyday from AOL. Our list don't
have NEARLY the volume of this one!!!!!!!!!

They can always re-subscribe easily...

Do you have problems connecting and delivering to the AOL mail exchangers?


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:16:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

Mike Coccagna wrote:
> 
> Active recruiting has now begun for the Quad4(42) segment of the
> list.  We must overcome!  The Toro guys will be overtaken! (Just
> kidding, the FWD Olds guys with lots o' power should stick together!)
> 
> BTW, did anyone see the early '90s Quad442 on ESPN2's IMSA race
> Sunday AM?  It had a good run, with a close 2nd.  Lots of action and
> the guy really kicked butt...
> 
> Mike
> '91 W-40 Quad442
> 
> 


Mike:

I would have said something, but then I thought better of it.  One 
should never pick on the little guys.  NICE RACING!

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 01:29:27 -0300
Subject: Re: problems w/ new 425

Michael,
	Tellus a bit more about those factory specs. Did you change the torque 
converter? How long did the 
rebuild take, mybe the QJest sat too long and dried up the seals..etc...That 
happens all too often. Can you 
try a different carb that you know works well?      
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:29:06 -0300
Subject: Re: AOL Question

Mike Frederick wrote:
> 
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> >
> > Is there any way these mailboxes can be expanded by the user?
> 
> Dunno but I expect they can ... for a price!  That's one reason why I use
> and recommend an *independent* Internet Service Provider (ISP).
> 
> The 66 Toro and Mike
>         


Mike:

Yeah on that.  I tried AOL & Compuserve, but now use an independent ISP. 
 I won't go back for any reason that I can think of.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:34:12 -0300
Subject: Re: problems w/ new 425

Michael Blennerhassett wrote:
> 
> Here is the problem: My 66 Toro 425 was completely rebuilt to factory
> specs by local machine shop. I put it back in, hooked it up, and it ran
> very very roughly, will not idle with timing set at 8-10 degrees advanced
> (and I did match the spark to the compression stroke, not the exhaust
> stroke), engine will rev up, drops back to stall/stumble along.
> 
> No vacuum - 4-5 inches at the sort-of-idle.  The engine will run faster,
> can run up to 18, 19 inches at 1500 rpm.
> 
>
> There are no major vacuum leaks.  New plugs.  dwell is 30 degrees.  firing
> order checked was checked by 2 people.  
> Anybody got an idea?  I hate to have to take this to someone, and I'm out
> of ideas..
> 
> Michael (no,. not that one, the one in Canada)
> 
> 

Michael:

An idea might be a non-degreed cam if you cannot find a vacuum leak.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:36:04 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

Robert Lawrence wrote:
> 
> >
> 
> We'll I finally dumped that piece of junk Oldsmobile and got me
> a nice Saab with a Chevy engine... ;)
> 
> 
> Robert Lawrence   | 1996 Saab
> You what!

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:41:02 -0300
Subject: RE: problems w/ new 425

When you replaced the timing gears are you sure they were installed properly 
and not say a tooth out.

- ----------
From: 	Michael Blennerhassett[SMTP:blenner@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA]
Sent: 	Monday, July 29, 1996 12:09 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	problems w/ new 425

Here is the problem: My 66 Toro 425 was completely rebuilt to factory
specs by local machine shop. I put it back in, hooked it up, and it ran
very very roughly, will not idle with timing set at 8-10 degrees advanced
(and I did match the spark to the compression stroke, not the exhaust
stroke), engine will rev up, drops back to stall/stumble along. 

No vacuum - 4-5 inches at the sort-of-idle.  The engine will run faster, 
can run up to 18, 19 inches at 1500 rpm.

I thought the might be a problem (orig. QJet) due to extreme wear evident
in primary axle shafts, even leaky well plugs, although the engine was
running well (at 280,000 miles until the timing chain rearranged itself)
with that carb when I took the engine out. I Located a rebuilt carb (that
matched, really!), and put it on last night.  No difference. No vacuum. I
have to keep the idle way up to even keep it lit..  Arrgh!

There are no major vacuum leaks.  New plugs.  dwell is 30 degrees.  firing
order checked was checked by 2 people.  The compression was around 200 psi
on the test stand.  Oil pressure is 60 psi cold (we're at 80 F) and drops
to 30 hot.  No binding in the belt driven accessories. 

Anybody got an idea?  I hate to have to take this to someone, and I'm out 
of ideas..


Michael (no,. not that one, the one in Canada)

*** without  a running 1966 Toro ***

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:34:33 -0300
Subject: RE: Compression ratios - was New Motor Considerations

I would just like to add that some camshafts with larger durations =
require more compression to function properly, also I have run as high =
as 10:1 in a big block without  any detonation problems using regular =
fuel 86 octane. The 10:25 :1 compression that OLDS gives is actually a =
lot lower if you were to go and measure everything, its closer to about =
9.5. and the 8.5 engine is closer to about 7.9 so you can take out alot =
of material and be safe.

- ----------
From: 	BobH592058@aol.com[SMTP:BobH592058@aol.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, July 28, 1996 8:46 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Compression ratios - was New Motor Considerations

I have a September 1973 Parts and Illustrations book set.  In Section =
00.000
they have some very helpful and nice horsepower and torque curves drawn =
for
all the available engines for each year.

I think a good test of what happens with compression ratios can be =
obtained
from the information in these curves.  In particular when we compare the =
1970
versus 1971 engines which were essentially the same except for =
compression
ratio.  In '70 the big 455's were at 10.25:1 and thereafter 8.5:1. There =
may
have been a 10.5:1 in there someplace but most were 10.25:1.  I am sure =
I
will be corrected.

In any case, the following compares the _gross_  (not net) horsepower =
and
torque ratings given in my parts book.  These are the max ratings for =
the
most powerful 455 cid engines shown.

Hmm, I am planning to re-do my engine which is currently as a real 8:1 =
and
raise it to 9:1 by milling the heads, etc.  Since I can run any fuel out
there and run NOS without retarding the spark, I now question the need =
to
raise it at all.

Year                         Horsepower                    Torque (lbs =
ft)

1970                           400                               510

1971                            350                              460

So, dropping two (darn near) full compression points reduced HP 12.5% =
and
torque 9.8%.

Since we are talking of the ability to raise current 8:1 engines to 9:1 =
or
thereabouts one could expect 6% increase in HP and 5% in torque.

This, of course, is based on very little data but it seems to agree with =
the
changes predicted by the program.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BRAD.NICHOLSON@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:35:30 -0300
Subject: "GM" Floor Mats 

Tom,

Try Auto Custom Carpets @ (800) 633-2358.  A friend of mine got their Corvette
carpet kit and was very pleased w/ the quality.  They have custom cut mats for
each specific car, not the generic ones they sell at the front parts counter &
K-mart.  I think they have a web page also.  They also do custom embroidered
mats w/ logos includings a couple of Olds like the rocket from the 60's I 
think.
 The type you and I have, in my 1987 442, are probably the same and the rubber
GM is called a dielectric stamp I think.  I'm getting a set of mats later this
summer.  They are real nice southern type folk to deal with.  Last year for my
club's local show they donated flyers and a certificate for free floor mats. 
This year they uped the anty w a certificate for a complete carpet kit!  Give
them a call and check their prices. They advertise as OEM specifications -
Quality, fit & apperance.

 ---   
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  President - Capitol City Rockets, OCA
| | |  76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---

=====  Cut from original post  =======

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>   Subject: Floor Mats 

     Does anyone know a source for NOS floormats for an '84 H/O?  Or even a 
     part number for me?  The guy at the olds dealer was clueless, couldn't 
     find a part number for the stock ones, but had plenty of aftermarket 
     ones to offer me!  I'm guessing that it's a pretty generic G-body 
     part, since it just says "GM" in the center.
     

------------------------------

From: "Michael Calvo" <mcalvo@hologic.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:54:34 -0300
Subject: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"  

     
     
     Hello everyone,
     
      I'm somewhat new to the list.  I have already posted once about a 
     week back concerning the "Cost of a '70 442 W30", well I ended up 
     falling in love with the car so I bought it for 6k, (he was asking 
     7k). It's a nice 4spd original owner car and everything seems to be 
     there except for the original carb. The owner had a rebuild done and 
     it was replaced with a #7040253 which was for a '70 442 w/MT not a '70 
     W30 w/MT.  Guess they thought it was close enough. Oh well.  The motor 
     was rebuilt about 10k ago but the rubber rail gaskets under the 
     aluminum W30 manifold were leaking pretty good so I decided to give up 
     a Sunday and fix them. I Pulled the manifold off, cleaned everything, 
     dimpled the end rails, used RTV silicone instead of the rubber gaskets 
     and put in another stock steel "bathtub" gasket. I also converted to 
     HEI while I was caught up in the flow. Well today I'm flipping through 
     my new Mondello Technical Reference Manual and I notice a section 
     where the doctor says "when installing an aluminum intake manifold, 
     never use the stock steel manifold gaskets. They will leak and cause 
     the manifold to warp." Well that statement just kinda ruined my day. 
     I'm real curious, how do you guys/gals feel about Joe's thoughts on 
     those stock gaskets. Have any W30 owners warped their manifolds using 
     them?  I value and respect Mondello's technical knowledge but does 
     this have more to do with aftermarket aluminum manifolds?  What do you 
     think?
     
     Thanks,
     Michael Calvo
     
     '68 Cutlass Supreme 
     '70 442 W30
     
     mcalvo@hologic.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:56:19 -0300
Subject: Re: "GM" Floor Mats

BRAD.NICHOLSON@ssa.gov wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Try Auto Custom Carpets @ (800) 633-2358.  A friend of mine got their 
Corvette
> carpet kit and was very pleased w/ the quality.  They have custom cut mats 
for
> each specific car, not the generic ones they sell at the front parts counter 
&
> K-mart.  I think they have a web page also.  They also do custom embroidered
> mats w/ logos includings a couple of Olds like the rocket from the 60's I 
think.
>   Give
> them a call and check their prices. They advertise as OEM specifications -
> Quality, fit & apperance.
> 
>  ---
> | | |  Brad Nicholson
>
>  ---
> 
> =====  Cut from original post  =======
> 
> From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>   Subject: Floor Mats
> 
>      Does anyone know a source for NOS floormats for an '84 H/O?  Or even a
>      part number for me?  The guy at the olds dealer was clueless, couldn't
>      find a part number for the stock ones, but had plenty of aftermarket
>      ones to offer me!  I'm guessing that it's a pretty generic G-body
>      part, since it just says "GM" in the center.
> These people do have nice stuff, but are a little high.  Tamaraz's will 
get you their products cheaper.  Most all carpet comes from them right 
here in Gadsden, AL.

Bill Culp
Decatur, AL

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:11:16 -0300
Subject: Re: How to decipher option list 

>Date:		Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:11:00 -0300
>From:	"AUVAX7::RILES" <RILES%AUVAX7.decnet@auscam.amd.com>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	"oldsmobile" <oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
>Subject:	How to decipher option list
>
>Anyone,
>
>The handwritten sales receipt for my '71 Cutlass has all options listed by
> code 
>number.  Does anyone know how I can decipher these codes to find out
> exactly 
>what options the car was ordered with?
>
>-Robert
>I know how,
  First call 1-800 and your local information #, this will give you 1-800 
information.  Ask for Olds customer service.  Call them and ask the for the # 
to the Olds History center.  Call the history center and leave your name, 
address, phone #, vehicle make and year, and your VIN # on the machine.  In 
about a week you will receive a package from them with a nice letter stating 
production #'s on your car and stuff on nice Olds stationary, a book of parts 
suppliers from around the country, a list from a guy in NJ who sells all 
original Olds books, and a options list for your car with all of the codes 
that you are talking about next to all of the availible factory options.  

                                                   Good Luck,
                                                      Craig Dobbins
                                                       Kissrulz@gnn.com

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 18:14:06 -0300
Subject: Re: main seals 

I would just change the fluids, granny it for a while, later steadily 
increasing the launches!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
                  or see: www.cps.msu.edu/~twomeysh/
- -----------

I had already bought replacement engine seals and was going to do that next,
but the old ones seem to be holding fine. I havn't changed the trans fluid
and filter yet, but I did add about a quart to top it off. 
What do you guys think....The engine is completly rebuilt but I did it 10
years ago and it hasn't been started in 8-9 yrs. Could the old main seals
possibly still be good??

Todd Hall
'72 442
Cleveland, OH

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:27:09 -0300
Subject: Aids for the Oldsmobile Enthusiast (fwd)

All this chat about deciphering option codes is real interesting, but you 
don't need to call 1-800 information to get the #s for the Olds History 
Center - that's why we're all here! Here are the phone #'s, courtesy of 
David Brown:

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 1995 13:41:20 -0400
From: David Brown <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: Aids for the Oldsmobile Enthusiast

This publication is a good reference for parts and services related to 
restoring an Olds.  It is compiled by the Oldsmobile History Center and can 
be requested, free of charge from either

Oldsmobile Division of GM corporation
Customer Assistance  1-800-442-6537

or 

Olds History Center
517-885-1502 (6:30am - 2pm, M-F)

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:34:25 -0300
Subject: Re: AOL Question 

In a message dated 96-07-29 11:03:23 EDT, ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Greg Beaulieu)
writes:

>Is there any way these mailboxes can be expanded by the user? I'm pretty 
>ruthless in dumping AOL users from the list when their boxes get full but 
>I don't like doing it. How much space do they give users for mail anyway?
>
>

Greg,

I feel the same way and I am an AOL user! I think, but not sure, that our
mailboxes hold 500 e-mails before its full. I have never seen a way to
increase/decrease the size of box. All I know is, that it takes a bit of
management (at least 2 times a week) to tend to my mailbox. Especially, which
a group as large and busy as the Olds board. I am pretty good with it, as
well as most others. However, there are a few that seem to only log on every
couple of weeks. Thats too long with this sort of volume. 

I have also had to delete names from my list, as ALL my mail gets kicked back
when only ONE person has a full mailbox. A major pain in the ***.

Sparky 

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:47:18 -0300
Subject: Re: main seals 

At 12:40 AM 7/29/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Todd,
>
>I'd have to say you're one lucky man. Hey, if they don't leak they don't
>leak. Keep the seals on hand, though, just in case...

Unbelievable, ain't it!  I was not looking forward to that job.

>BTW, what kind of seal did you use, rope or neoprene?

If I remember correctly it was rope and I guess I did a *really* good job
installing them  :)


>I have similar concerns about a TH400 I had rebuild twelve years ago, used
>for a year (about 3000 miles) and then stored. I know that the innards were
>in good shape, but I'm afraid to look after all this time; I'd imagine its
>seals were all dried up, but seeing your case, I guess you just never know. 

Wanna rub my head? 

Todd 

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:38:43 -0300
Subject: Re: AOL Question 

>I feel the same way and I am an AOL user! I think, but not sure, that our
>mailboxes hold 500 e-mails before it's full. I have never seen a way to
>increase/decrease the size of box.

If that's true, and AOL counts more on quantity than size of accumulated
email files, maybe one solution might be to switch subscribers with a lot
of bounce incidents to digest subscription instead.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:48:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442 

In a message dated 96-07-29 00:53:48 EDT, you write:

<< Traction bars move the center of gravity toward the rear of the car,
 this forces the rear wheels to the ground for maximum traction 
 without wheel hop. Oh well.
 
 Mike Brady 1969 4-4-2
  >>


How do you change the center of gravity of a car without changing ride height
or moving weight around someplace?  If the "traction bars" cause the
suspension to react such that on acceleration the car body is made to rise
(versus squatting or no change at all), OK, that would push the tires harder
into the pavement. That would increase traction some.  If the tire spin is
really bad, they won't solve the problem completely since you are essentially
over powering the tires, not any center of gravity. For a street driven car
you shouldn't need them at all.

The easiest way to stop wheel spin is to use larger, stickier tires.

The easiest way to stop wheel hop is to control the suspension (as with good
shocks and Air-Lift bags). And use stickier tires.  It's that simple.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: "bansell" <bansell@xl.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:07:13 -0300
Subject: Need parts for 84' H/O 

     I am looking for a set of rust free doors for my 84' H/O..
     I will also need complete stripe kit for the same.
     Does anyone know where I could find this king of stuff?
     -thanks in advance
     -Bill
     bansell@xl.com

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:47:43 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"  

     My big question is "What else are you going to use"?  I've never seen 
     any non-steel-pan gaskets for the Olds, except the 2 piece ones that 
     Mondello has in his catalog.  Anyone know of such a beast?


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: 455 "Bathtub gaskets" 
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/29/96 1:17 PM

     
     where the doctor says "when installing an aluminum intake manifold, 
     never use the stock steel manifold gaskets. They will leak and cause 
     the manifold to warp." Well that statement just kinda ruined my day. 
     I'm real curious, how do you guys/gals feel about Joe's thoughts on 
     those stock gaskets. Have any W30 owners warped their manifolds using 
     them?  I value and respect Mondello's technical knowledge but does 
     this have more to do with aftermarket aluminum manifolds?  What do you 
     think?
     

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:05:43 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets" 

Michael Calvo wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>      Hello everyone,
> 
>       I'm somewhat new to the list.  I have already posted once about a
>      week back concerning the "Cost of a '70 442 W30", well I ended up
>      falling in love with the car so I bought it for 6k, (he was asking
>      7k).   The motor
>      was rebuilt about 10k ago but the rubber rail gaskets under the
>      aluminum W30 manifold were leaking pretty good so I decided to give up
>      a Sunday and fix them. I Pulled the manifold off, cleaned everything,
>      dimpled the end rails, used RTV silicone instead of the rubber gaskets
>      and put in another stock steel "bathtub" gasket.  Well today I'm 
flipping through
>      my new Mondello Technical Reference Manual and I notice a section
>      where the doctor says "when installing an aluminum intake manifold,
>      never use the stock steel manifold gaskets. They will leak and cause
>      the manifold to warp." Well that statement just kinda ruined my day.
>      I'm real curious, how do you guys/gals feel about Joe's thoughts on
>      those stock gaskets. Have any W30 owners warped their manifolds using
>      them?  I value and respect Mondello's technical knowledge but does
>      this have more to do with aftermarket aluminum manifolds?  What do you
>      think?
> 
>      Thanks,
>      Michael Calvo
> 
>      


Michael:

It is nice to hear that you have what you love.  Those things are sure 
easy to love.

I had a 1973 455 w/Edlebrock for 13 years & never had any trouble using 
the stock gasket.  It was only removed once.  I reused the same gasket 
w/RTV & went on my way.  If I had known Mr. Mondello & his advice, I 
would probably never had done it.  I think that he is overreacting.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:13:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Need parts for 84' H/O

bansell wrote:
> 
>      I am looking for a set of rust free doors for my 84' H/O..
>      I will also need complete stripe kit for the same.
>      Does anyone know where I could find this king of stuff?
>      -thanks in advance
>      -Bill
>      bansell@xl.com


Bill:

Doors are easy if you are near N AL.  I suppose about $50-$75/door.  
Shipping would be bad though.  I know nothing of stripes.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: William Ansell <wansell@lynx.dac.neu.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 18:17:44 -0300
Subject: s

> 
> 
>      I am looking for a set of rust free doors for my 84' H/O..
>      I will also need complete stripe kit for the same.
>      Does anyone know where I could find this king of stuff?
>      -thanks in advance
>      -Bill
>      bansell@xl.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:25:09 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets" 

>
>
>     Hello everyone,
>
>      I'm somewhat new to the list.  I have already posted once about a
>     week back concerning the "Cost of a '70 442 W30", well I ended up
>     falling in love with the car so I bought it for 6k, (he was asking

[SNIP]

Have fun with the new wheels!

I believe that RTV is NOT a good idea for applications involving gasoline.
Gas is a solvent for RTV... Read the back of the tube... Maybe it's not the
same stuff I use.

Am I the only guy that never finishes a tube before:

A) It hardens
B) the tube cracks
C) Both

I guess could solve this problem by spending less time on-line and more
time under/over/inside the car!





*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 18:42:56 -0300
Subject: Olds FAQ in HTML

The FAQ link on my page has been updated with a sparkling, new HTML
version of the document, thanks to Todd Hall (thall@en.com), who says he
will continue to work on it and send me updates.  Its not perfect, but
reflects a lot of work.  Some of you mentioned to me that, when in .txt
format, Netscape would not word wrap long lines, so this solves that
annoyance.

Please direct any formatting comments both to myself and Todd, and of
course any content comments to David Brown.

The URL:  http://www.cps.msu.edu/~twomeysh

- -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------==============================
                                

------------------------------

From: SCOT SWANSON <SCOT442@cris.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 18:53:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction 

>At this rate the 1968's will outnumber the Toronado's & then I will have to
get another Toronado.  

Bill, 

You can never have too many cars.  Will look for any at the fall show in
Jefferson WI

Scot Swanson

------------------------------

From: "bansell" <bansell@xl.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 15:20:08 -0300
Subject: Need parts for 84' H/O 

     I am looking for a set of rust free doors for my 84' H/O.. 
     I will also need complete stripe kit for the same.
     Does anyone know where I could find this king of stuff? 
     -thanks in advance
     -Bill
     bansell@xl.com
     p.s I am in the boston area

------------------------------

From: CISGWW@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:17:47 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe please 

please remove me from your service, purchase of olds not completed as
expected

------------------------------

From: Jason Barnes <CAFj@humanitasEAP.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:31:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"

Im thinking of buying a used Torker intake for my 455 CS.  Ive heard
that blocking off the exhaust runner(forget the proper name)that passes
hot gases under the carburetor will help with performance.  Is this
something that can be accomplished with an aftermarket gasket?  Does it
affect driveability (other than a longer warm up period)?

jason Barnes
71 Cutlass conv.
BTW Thanks to everyone who helped with my alternator conversion, it works 
great

------------------------------

From: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:47:25 -0300
Subject: Re: thermostat

Chris Urban wrote:
> 
> Wow you got that right it should be like .005 at least with forged pistons.
> 

Ok, so my next question is where did you find that info at?  I've 
questioned various people and have gotten various answers, such as, 
Summit Racing & TRW - both said .001 over factory is fine, Mondello - 
said  to use .003-.004.  Sure would be nice to get a staight answer!
Have you used this clearance before?  I would hate to tear into this 
engine if it isn't going to help.

One thing to mention is that it only does this on HOT! days, over 80 
degrees.

cya442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@EMUVAX.EMICH.EDU
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:47:49 -0300
Subject: Olds parts for sale

Yes I have a 68 tail light (Cutlass) and the 68 Cutlass backup assembly give me
a call at (810) 227-3086 Ask for Don ......Very reasonable prices. Michigan

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 23:20:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds FAQ in HTML

Shawn Twomey wrote:
> 
> The FAQ link on my page has been updated with a sparkling, new HTML
> version of the document, thanks to Todd Hall (thall@en.com)

Some very nice work by Todd.  We are all in your debt.

Thanks, guys.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:24:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442 and if hop bars are necessary 

The biggest rear tire you can put on your car is ( I recommend)
Mickey Thompson or M&H race master dot tires 
with sizes 29x12.5x15 or 29x12x15.  I use M&H tires.  I have no
tire spin and I generate 470hp and 523lbs torque.
At the Mondello Nats I ran a 12.68 et at 107.23mph
As for your rims, I have SSII rims that were modified from 15x7's to 15x8's
from a place here in Michigan called Weld Craft.  I added the inch to the
rear and 
had the center moved forward.  The back spacing has to be 4.5 inches.
They could also add to the front the inch necessary which i wish i would have
done.
The cost to modify the rims is $65.00 which is a great deal.

NO, you do not need no hop bars.  I use air bags and 50/50 shocks.
driver side is set at 5psi and passenger is at 18psi.  I have not experienced
wheel hop or spinning tires.  note Tire pressure is set at 13psi

Weld Craft 
39660 schoolcraft,suite 102,103
Plymouth MI 48170
313 420 2211
313 420 2764 fax

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:17:20 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 455 "Bathtub gaskets" 

     I've heard that it's one of the cheapest/easiest/bang-for-the-buck 
     mods that can be done to an Olds motor, is to block off the exhaust 
     heat crossover passage in the manifold.  The only drawback that I know 
     of is the choke.  The choke uses this passage to tell when the engine 
     is warm.  If you're in a warm climate this might not be a problem, or 
     perhaps you could also rig up an electric choke, which was available 
     on some quadrajets although I don't know which applications.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/29/96 3:46 PM


Im thinking of buying a used Torker intake for my 455 CS.  Ive heard 
that blocking off the exhaust runner(forget the proper name)that passes 
hot gases under the carburetor will help with performance.  Is this 
something that can be accomplished with an aftermarket gasket?  Does it 
affect driveability (other than a longer warm up period)?
     
jason Barnes
71 Cutlass conv.
BTW Thanks to everyone who helped with my alternator conversion, it works 
great
     

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:17:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Need parts for 84' H/O 

     The doors shouldn't be a problem, since they're not specific to the 
     H/O model.  Check junkyards outside of the rust zone, they should be 
     plentiful.  I've seen dozens here in Spokane.
     
     I saw a stripe kit for sale in Thunder and Lightning, the H/OCA's 
     newsletter a while back.  He wanted $1500 for the set though!  Lauren 
     Engineering makes a reproduction stripe set for considerably less, 
     although I've never seen it myself and have never heard of someone who 
     tried it, so their quality is unknown.  Their address is on Bryce's 
     web page (www.442.com).
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Need parts for 84' H/O
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/29/96 2:46 PM


     I am looking for a set of rust free doors for my 84' H/O.. 
     I will also need complete stripe kit for the same.
     Does anyone know where I could find this king of stuff? 
     -thanks in advance
     -Bill
     bansell@xl.com
     

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:45:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"  

In a message dated 96-07-29 16:02:26 EDT, you write:

<< Well today I'm flipping through 
      my new Mondello Technical Reference Manual and I notice a section 
      where the doctor says "when installing an aluminum intake manifold, 
      never use the stock steel manifold gaskets. They will leak and cause 
      the manifold to warp." Well that statement just kinda ruined my day. 
      I'm real curious, how do you guys/gals feel about Joe's thoughts on 
      those stock gaskets. Have any W30 owners warped their manifolds using 
      them?  I value and respect Mondello's technical knowledge but does 
      this have more to do with aftermarket aluminum manifolds?  What do you 
      think?
      
      Thanks,
      Michael Calvo >>

Well Michael, first consider that the aluminum manifold that came on your '70
is close to 30 years old now.  If there is a big problem I would suspect it
would have shown up by now.

I use the soft gaskets because they do seal better, IMHO.  An aluminum intake
is softer and will tend to warp with _heavy_ torque values.  Following the
factory torque _and_ tightening sequence should be fine.

You don't think ol' JM is trying to sell us some intake gaskets and valley
trays do ya?

BTW, if you do go the soft gasket route, just cut the valley tray portion off
the original steel gasket.  Instant valley tray for nada.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:44:39 -0300
Subject: Re: problems w/ new 425 

My vote is for improper cam timing also.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:36:42 -0300
Subject: RE: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"

No a gasket will eventually burn through. The best thing is to have the =
heads welded up or filled with Mondello's zinc alloy. This will not only =
keep the hot gas away from the carb but also shape your middle exghaust =
ports so they can flow better and in return get more HP.

- ----------
From: 	Jason Barnes[SMTP:CAFj@humanitasEAP.com]
Sent: 	Monday, July 29, 1996 6:31 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"

Im thinking of buying a used Torker intake for my 455 CS.  Ive heard
that blocking off the exhaust runner(forget the proper name)that passes
hot gases under the carburetor will help with performance.  Is this
something that can be accomplished with an aftermarket gasket?  Does it
affect driveability (other than a longer warm up period)?

jason Barnes
71 Cutlass conv.
BTW Thanks to everyone who helped with my alternator conversion, it =
works=20
great

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:16:14 -0300
Subject: RE: 455 "Bathtub gaskets" 

As much as I hate to admit it Mondello is right, put in some proper gaskets.

- ----------
From: 	Michael Calvo[SMTP:mcalvo@hologic.com]
Sent: 	Monday, July 29, 1996 4:54 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	455 "Bathtub gaskets" 

     
     
     Hello everyone,
     
      I'm somewhat new to the list.  I have already posted once about a 
     week back concerning the "Cost of a '70 442 W30", well I ended up 
     falling in love with the car so I bought it for 6k, (he was asking 
     7k). It's a nice 4spd original owner car and everything seems to be 
     there except for the original carb. The owner had a rebuild done and 
     it was replaced with a #7040253 which was for a '70 442 w/MT not a '70 
     W30 w/MT.  Guess they thought it was close enough. Oh well.  The motor 
     was rebuilt about 10k ago but the rubber rail gaskets under the 
     aluminum W30 manifold were leaking pretty good so I decided to give up 
     a Sunday and fix them. I Pulled the manifold off, cleaned everything, 
     dimpled the end rails, used RTV silicone instead of the rubber gaskets 
     and put in another stock steel "bathtub" gasket. I also converted to 
     HEI while I was caught up in the flow. Well today I'm flipping through 
     my new Mondello Technical Reference Manual and I notice a section 
     where the doctor says "when installing an aluminum intake manifold, 
     never use the stock steel manifold gaskets. They will leak and cause 
     the manifold to warp." Well that statement just kinda ruined my day. 
     I'm real curious, how do you guys/gals feel about Joe's thoughts on 
     those stock gaskets. Have any W30 owners warped their manifolds using 
     them?  I value and respect Mondello's technical knowledge but does 
     this have more to do with aftermarket aluminum manifolds?  What do you 
     think?
     
     Thanks,
     Michael Calvo
     
     '68 Cutlass Supreme 
     '70 442 W30
     
     mcalvo@hologic.com

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:45:17 -0300
Subject: RE: thermostat

	Well for starters if you bought TRW pistons the instructions in the 
box =
say .005 for any performance application. I have used this a number of =
times (like about 50) and have never had a piston scuff on me for any =
reason. This clearance also helps the engine accelerate faster as there =
is less drag in the bore. Now for a non performance application =
clearance can be a bit tighter but .003-.004 " would be the max. This =
will take a lot longer to break in and yes generate more heat, but .001 =
is definetly too tight. Did you mean .001 OVER factory ( which would be =
.004-.005) or  did you mean .001 gap?=09
	What did you gap your rings at?=20

- ----------
From: 	Chris and Robin[SMTP:cya442@erols.com]
Sent: 	Monday, July 29, 1996 6:47 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: thermostat

Chris Urban wrote:
>=20
> Wow you got that right it should be like .005 at least with forged =
pistons.
>=20

Ok, so my next question is where did you find that info at?  I've=20
questioned various people and have gotten various answers, such as,=20
Summit Racing & TRW - both said .001 over factory is fine, Mondello -=20
said  to use .003-.004.  Sure would be nice to get a staight answer!
Have you used this clearance before?  I would hate to tear into this=20
engine if it isn't going to help.

One thing to mention is that it only does this on HOT! days, over 80=20
degrees.

cya442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:52:37 -0300
Subject: Piston rings for sale

For sale: 455 Standard bore(4.1250") piston rings, moly face top ring, 
cast second, Sealed Power.  Box opened, but unused and unfiled.  Standard 
tension oil rings.  Email me for info.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 22:15:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds FAQ in HTML 

>The FAQ link on my page has been updated with a sparkling, new HTML

[SNIP]

I like the the way it is ONE page with intra-page links. This makes it easy
to print, eliminating the need for following the links and printing
individual pages, or having a separate text version.

Now all we need is a CGI script that will take the VIN #, etc. and spit out
a custom FAQ for your car!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:13:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Max tire and wheel size 69 442 and if hop bars are necessary 

In a message dated 96-07-29 19:29:39 EDT, you write:

<< NO, you do not need no hop bars.  I use air bags and 50/50 shocks.
 driver side is set at 5psi and passenger is at 18psi.  I have not
experienced
 wheel hop or spinning tires.  note Tire pressure is set at 13psi
  >>

Amen to that brother!

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:12:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets" 

In a message dated 96-07-29 18:26:26 EDT, you write:

<< Im thinking of buying a used Torker intake for my 455 CS.  Ive heard
 that blocking off the exhaust runner(forget the proper name)that passes
 hot gases under the carburetor will help with performance.  Is this
 something that can be accomplished with an aftermarket gasket?  Does it
 affect driveability (other than a longer warm up period)?
 
 jason Barnes
 71 Cutlass conv. >>

I run a Torker on the '67 and the '70 will get one soon.  They work pretty
well.

If you use the aftermarket soft gaskets (e.g. Mr. Gasket) you can block the
exhaust passage with a thin piece of _steel_.  I've used an old tin can. Just
cut a piece and place it over the opening.  Some of these gaskets actually
come with no opening cut for the crossover.  If you don't block it as
described a hole will appear in a few minutes. :-)

OTOH, blocking this passage by itself will help only a little.  The major HP
loser is the different passages the exhaust gases are released into in the
cylinder heads.  These crossover access passages realy mess up gas flow.  If
you live in a climate where it gets below ~45 degrees F, you will have
driveability problems too.

The "best" solution is to fill the exhaust passage opening(s) in the heads,
e.g. with Mondello's zinc alloy kit.  That way all the exhaust passages will
at least be the same basic configuration.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 22:20:07 -0300
Subject: Re: To forge or not to forge...

Bob Handren writes:
><< nitride the crank  >>
>
>Having searched high and low for a shop which provides such services and
>failed (even Chris Witt couldn't help me), where do you get your cranks
>treated?

A speed shop or machine shop cannot help you with nitriding forged steel. 
The process is akin to case hardening but uses a gas and extreme heat to 
change the outer surface structure at a molecular level. I have been 
using Nitriding steels for years in deep drawn stamping dies and certain 
high impact areas or wear areas in assembly tooling, injection moulds and 
progressive dies. Normal sources for this in Metro Detroit do not do this 
kind of work, but I know that Dick Miller of Dick Miller Racing does have 
a source. Call him at 517-782-2012.


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:52:25 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 "Bathtub gaskets"

Hey Michael, 
	If you plan on changing the valley pan gasket (again!!) then you 
may want to consider using Fel-Pro's gasket. Try and find the one with 
screen meshing over the intake ports. Apparently they will aerate the 
fuel by dispursing it into little dropplets after passing by the screem 
meshing. Helps improve efficiency and power. I've never tried them but 
the important thing here is that they are not steel and they are a two 
piece setup, like Ch*vy uses. I can't remember the name right now but 
I'm sure the auto parts counter guy, you know the guy with infinite 
wisdom and patience, will know. As many here will atest to the 
experiences of explaining a part upon ordering, on the phone to boot.

Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:44:15 -0300
Subject: Re: GM Collectors Guide (BOP)??

I fell for the same "trap" that you did.  They used to be a decent magazine 
with some good Olds stuff, then they were sold.  The content started to get 
smaller and smaller, until one day they had like 2 articles in the entire 
magazine and a black and white non-glossy cover.  Now they don't have any 
articles at all and their classified section is a joke.  I'm not pleased at 
all.

- -Dan

OLDSPWR@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Does anyone out there subsribe to GM Collectors Guide, formerly BOP (Buick
> Olds Pontiac)????
> 
> The only reason I subsribed to this magazine (at $25 a year) was because they
> featured one Olds a month along with new products.  Now for the past few
> months the entire magazine has been dedicated to classified ads.  If I wanted
> to read classifieds on Olds I would pick up a Hemmings.  I wonder if they
> have a lack of feature cars.  If they do maybe we could send them some
> pictures of our Olds.  Anybody have any other thought???
> 
> Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:58:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Who Ordered Cars & Parts' 4-4-2 Book? (was Re: How to decipher 
option list)

I have the book, now what do I win.  I'd go with the Oldsmobile resto manual 
instead, 
more info and more pictures.  The only advantages to the Cars and Parts book 
is the 
73 and up info and the color photos of trim and paint colors.

- -Dan

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> >The handwritten sales receipt for my '71 Cutlass has all options listed by
> code
> >number.  Does anyone know how I can decipher these codes to find out exactly
> >what options the car was ordered with?
> 
> I'm _pretty_ sure this is covered in Cars & Parts' new 4-4-2 numbers book.
> 
> Now then, _somebody_ on this list has a copy, or at least should be getting
> one in the mail Real Soon Now, since word has got back to me from Amos Press
> that at least one person from our list has ordered one-- he mentioned our
> email list when phoning in his order, although they can't remember his name
> at the moment. Anybody want to raise their hand?
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:23:49 -0300
Subject: Brake lights & stuff

My brake lights have never worked on my 68.  Well, one replace fuse and 
fixed loose wire and I now have brake lights on the drivers side.  
However, they do not work on the passenger side.  I swaped one of the 
bulbs over at it worked fine in the drivers side.  Maybe I should have 
swaped both lights over?  Also, when I turn on the head lights, all 4 
light bulbs (2 per side - duh!), come on.  You would think the brake 
lights would work also.  What should I check?

Looks like I won't be getting that 68 442 convertible.  That lady won't 
budge on the price and now she put it in the paper for $9800.  Well, I 
guess somebody will pay her the money.  Good thing I didn't know about 
uprising of 68s on the list or I might have had to buy it.  

Everybody had some good suggestions on the paint thing, but nobody has 
been able to supply the temp and time.  Somebody must know this one.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 23:59:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Ninety Eight 1964 4DHT in Finland 

In a message dated 96-07-29 15:10:18 EDT, you write:

<< reproduction lenses are available anyway.  :-) >>

I am fairly sure that these "sail panel" courtesy lites are the same ones
that my '67 98 uses.  New lenses are available from Fusick.  I replaced one
my bulbs and the original, almost 30 year old lense survived.  The trick is
to carefully pry those tabs out with a small flat head screw driver.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 23:56:29 -0300
Subject: Virtual Showroom 

Just got my Oldsmobile Virtual Showroon CDRom today.  Really cool!  Let's you
look at all the models on a turntable.  You can open doors, hoods and trunks.
 Some models let you interact.  You can open the sliding door on a Silhouette
with the remote, fold or remove the seats.  You can run the power windows up
and down and move the mirrors on a Cutlass Supreme.  The Aurora lets you move
the driver's seat and mirrors, lock and unlock the doors and flash the lights
and sound the horn - all with the remote control.  The Bravada shows you how
the Smart-Trac works on different road surfaces.  The LSS shows you the
Guide-Star navigation system.  And they also give you a really cool road map
program.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 00:00:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Aids for the Oldsmobile Enthusiast (fwd) 

In a message dated 96-07-29 16:31:22 EDT, you write:

<< Olds History Center
 517-885-1502 (6:30am - 2pm, M-F) >>

As per the latest JWO their hours are 7am to 11am

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 00:12:19 -0300
Subject: Re: How to decipher option list 

In a message dated 96-07-29 12:18:17 EDT, you write:

<< The handwritten sales receipt for my '71 Cutlass has all options listed by
code 
 number.  Does anyone know how I can decipher these codes to find out exactly

 what options the car was ordered with?
  >>

List your options here and I can decipher them with my '71 salesman's SPEC
book -- with prices, too (guess you already have those though, if you a have
a receipt - duh). 

Paul
The book guy

------------------------------

From: dink@infinet.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:47:58 -0300
Subject: Olds Stolen

Well today sucked.  Some asshole stole my baby, my Oldsmobeast.  I 
hope someone finds it one piece, but I doubt it. It was stolen from 
work in the middle of the day, in a sorta nice part of town. It wouldn't be so 
bad if it wasn't for the $3000 stereo and $1500 golf clubs in the 
trunk.  Nobody ever knew I had the stereo, I never showed it off, I 
guess they stole it for a different reason.  Well this truly sucks, I
now have no car, no Oldsmobile, no Golf clubs, and no trust in 
anyone.  Well if anyone in the cleveland area finds olds parts real 
cheap for am 80 Delta 88, please email me.   Dink@infinet.com

And if anyone finds a complete Sony car system, or King Cobra clubs 
please tell me.

Sorry for venting but I had to.

Dink

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Dink                 Dayton, Ohio
http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle
/////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 01:19:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Brake lights & stuff

At 05:23 PM 7/29/96 -0300, you wrote:
>My brake lights have never worked on my 68.  Well, one replace fuse and 
>fixed loose wire and I now have brake lights on the drivers side.  
>However, they do not work on the passenger side.  I swaped one of the 
>bulbs over at it worked fine in the drivers side. 

Did you check the sockets?  I had trouble with my taillights on my 69; the
sockets were falling apart.  I replaced them with some I bought at Pep Boys,
and they work fine, now.
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 01:46:44 -0300
Subject: 70 cutlass 350/350 to 455/400 

ive got a 70 cutlass with a 350 and a turbo 350 trans and i want to switch to
a 455 and a turbo 400==anyone know if i will need a different crossmember and
or driveshaft==if so what year cars parts might work??
also have a 350 block rods pistons cam heads ex manifolds to sell if anyone
is interested==and when the 455 goes in another 350 and bop turbo 350 will be
for sale
if you have ever done this please e-mail me or post a reply==any help would
be great!!!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:38:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Brake lights & stuff

Dan Williams wrote:
> 
> My brake lights have never worked on my 68.  Well, one replace fuse and
> fixed loose wire and I now have brake lights on the drivers side.
> However, they do not work on the passenger side.   What should I check?
> 
> Looks like I won't be getting that 68 442 convertible.  That lady won't
> budge on the price and now she put it in the paper for $9800. 
> -Dan


Dan:

Sorry about the 442.  They are great cars.  Getting $9800 will probably 
be tough.

About the lights.  Check all connections especially the grounds.  Clean 
it all & check continuity w/volt-ohm meter.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 02:49:58 -0300
Subject: AOL Question

> 
> Is there any way these mailboxes can be expanded by the user? I'm pretty 
> ruthless in dumping AOL users from the list when their boxes get full but 
> I don't like doing it. How much space do they give users for mail anyway?
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

Read mail regularly and use the trashcan or download.

I think this is all that is needed to keep Your mailbox voluminous.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Email       esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi
> X400        G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi
> Telephone   +358 2040 3439
> Snail-Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5
>             01610 VANTAA
>             FINLAND
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 02:49:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass 350/350 to 455/400

On Tue, 30 Jul 1996 STEE911@aol.com wrote:

> ive got a 70 cutlass with a 350 and a turbo 350 trans and i want to switch to
> a 455 and a turbo 400==anyone know if i will need a different crossmember and
> or driveshaft==if so what year cars parts might work??

    You can just slide the x-member back to mount the T400.  If you can't 
get a T400 driveshaft from a donor car (any 68-72 A-body with a T400), 
will need to get a T400 yoke and shorten the driveshaft about 1".  I 
*THINK* (I'm sure I'll be corrected) the universal-to-universal length of 
the shaft is 53" for a T400, 54" for a T350.   I got so fed up with 
scrounging for a driveshaft I just blew the $50 and got it shortened.  ;^)

    You'll also need to rig up a switch to send +12 to the downshift 
solenoid in the tranny at WOT.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

    

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:56:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Virtual Showroom

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Just got my Oldsmobile Virtual Showroon CDRom today.  Really cool!    The 
LSS shows you the
> Guide-Star navigation system.  And they also give you a really cool road map
> program.
> 
> Paul

Paul;

I ordered one of these & expect ot get it in a couple of weeks.  I 
received one from Pontiac & I love the Trans Am engine sound w/the 
rising tach as you start it up.  The Olds one seems even better.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:37:49 -0300
Subject: Starfire-Jetstar one chapter info

I apologize for forgetting who showed interest in this club, a little
to quick on the delete button, but here's the info
  Starfire/jetstar1 chapter
  2657 April dawn way
  Gambrills,MD 21054

    Mike Brady 1969 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:09:16 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

>We'll I finally dumped that piece of junk Oldsmobile and got me
>a nice Saab with a Chevy engine... ;)

OFF with his head!


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 07:39:01 -0300
Subject: RE: 455 Questions 

>A rocket olds engin is just a name that was carried over from the 1949 Rocket
>88 that came with a V8. In 69 the 98 came standard with a 365hp 455 and it was
>most likly painted olds blue. G.D. 70 Cutlass Supreme
>

     Uhh,   ~JUST~ a name??????     :)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 07:39:04 -0300
Subject: Re: My next driveway cover??? 

>In a message dated 96-07-23 04:46:52 EDT, you write:
>
><<  and definately not much of a "fun" color :  A few shades
> worse than vomit-yellow!   >>
>
>But yellow is a "fun" color.  Definately a convertible color.  (And you
>better watch it because my '72 Supreme is yellow!)  Anyway, they called that
>color Saffron, and it was real popular on 98 convertibles in '67.  They even
>had a matching yellow convertible top and yellow interior.  Must have been a
>real big hit with the ladies, as I have heard of quite a few of these now.
>
>So let me get this straight.  Now there's two '67 98 convertibles?  A regular
>one and a parts car?  What are you waiting for?!
>
>Paul
>and the iron banana
>

     Well, this yellow looks to have lost all of it's "fun," I'm afraid...
It's a fairly sick shade of it, a combination of oxidized paint, rust, and
dirt.  As for the parts car, it's a 4 door.  The needed parts are on it,
though (except the top, of course!!!)  My only holdup is $$$.  I should know
for certain by Thursday afternoon.  (I'm needing to sell another car to do
this...)  This waiting part is really hard on the nerves!Q#@$!@#$.!!!
     Oh, the parts car has a 425, also.  Found a rusty C head in the trunk,
and a C head on the block.  Also found an "A" head on the other side of the
block ??!!?  Hmmm, you do the math here...  I'm guessing they had head
problems, just a hunch. 
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 04:57:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Aids for the Oldsmobile Enthusiast (fwd) 

Yea right,
  Try calling between those hours, the answering machine works pretty good 
then too.
                                                   Craig.
>Date:		Tue, 30 Jul 1996 00:00:23 -0300
>From:	PHartlieb@AOL.COM
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Aids for the Oldsmobile Enthusiast (fwd)
>
>In a message dated 96-07-29 16:31:22 EDT, you write:
>
><< Olds History Center
> 517-885-1502 (6:30am - 2pm, M-F) >>
>
>As per the latest JWO their hours are 7am to 11am
>
>Paul
>

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:05:01 -0300
Subject: Re: My next driveway cover??? 

Hi,
  What shade of yellow is Saffron?  I was thinking of doing my 442 
convertable in the original yellow for '68 (with the black side stripe of 
course).  I saw a '69 w/an origianl yellow paint job, but it was sort of a 
weak lighter yellow.  Is the yellow '68 442 convertable on the top of Lisa 
Madsen's home page close to Saffron - sort of a medium darker, richer yellow? 
 Someone out there can help me, I hope!
                                                   Craig
                                                    1968 442 convert.
>Date:		Tue, 30 Jul 1996 07:39:04 -0300
>From:	buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: My next driveway cover???
>
>>In a message dated 96-07-23 04:46:52 EDT, you write:
>>
>><<  and definately not much of a "fun" color :  A few shades
>> worse than vomit-yellow!   >>
>>
>>But yellow is a "fun" color.  Definately a convertible color.  (And you
>>better watch it because my '72 Supreme is yellow!)  Anyway, they called
> that
>>color Saffron, and it was real popular on 98 convertibles in '67.  They
> even
>>had a matching yellow convertible top and yellow interior.  Must have
> been a
>>real big hit with the ladies, as I have heard of quite a few of these now.
>>
>>So let me get this straight.  Now there's two '67 98 convertibles?  A
> regular
>>one and a parts car?  What are you waiting for?!
>>
>>Paul
>>and the iron banana
>>
>
>     Well, this yellow looks to have lost all of it's "fun," I'm afraid...
>It's a fairly sick shade of it, a combination of oxidized paint, rust, and
>dirt.  As for the parts car, it's a 4 door.  The needed parts are on it,
>though (except the top, of course!!!)  My only holdup is $$$.  I should
> know
>for certain by Thursday afternoon.  (I'm needing to sell another car to do
>this...)  This waiting part is really hard on the nerves!Q#@$!@#$.!!!
>     Oh, the parts car has a 425, also.  Found a rusty C head in the trunk,
>and a C head on the block.  Also found an "A" head on the other side of the
>block ??!!?  Hmmm, you do the math here...  I'm guessing they had head
>problems, just a hunch. 
>    
>      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
>      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
>      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)
>
>

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 10:03:08 -0300
Subject: Resto  Tips  .....

Painting fasteners can be a real pain.  But, if you take a piece of scrap wood
and drill rows of holes (of varying sizes),  you can stick bolts in the holes 
and shoot on the paint.  When the paint dries, simply remove the bolts.
Nuts can be painted by screwing them onto bolts that have been run through a 
piece of wood.


- --Resto Corner

- --joe ferrero


hey, if you have a tip, post it on here under resto tips....

this is not a company that puts this out, just your average 22 year old guy.
these things i came across in my restorations, and i'm sure some of you have
some things that made your restoration easier.  Please post them.


Let me know this, do you enjoy this?  should i continue? I have more, but
it is always nice to have encouragement if a good thing will last.

thanks again...
- --joe

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:15:50 -0300
Subject: RE: Olds Stolen

If the stereo has a detachable face plate and you still have the receipt
you can get the main unit replaced at least. I worry about this kind of
crap all the time. My 86 Supreme is irreplaceable to me. I would 
probably only get 2k from insurance if it was stolen, and I could never
replace it with that. Whats everyone's opinion on car alarms? Has anyone 
installed/had one installed in their older olds?

- ----------
From: 	dink@infinet.com[SMTP:dink@infinet.com]
Sent: 	Monday, July 29, 1996 7:47 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Olds Stolen

Well today sucked.  Some asshole stole my baby, my Oldsmobeast.  I 
hope someone finds it one piece, but I doubt it. It was stolen from 
work in the middle of the day, in a sorta nice part of town. It wouldn't be so 
bad if it wasn't for the $3000 stereo and $1500 golf clubs in the 
trunk.  Nobody ever knew I had the stereo, I never showed it off, I 
guess they stole it for a different reason.  Well this truly sucks, I
now have no car, no Oldsmobile, no Golf clubs, and no trust in 
anyone.  Well if anyone in the cleveland area finds olds parts real 
cheap for am 80 Delta 88, please email me.   Dink@infinet.com

And if anyone finds a complete Sony car system, or King Cobra clubs 
please tell me.

Sorry for venting but I had to.

Dink

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Dink                 Dayton, Ohio
http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle
/////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:20:54 -0300
Subject: Key/Lights Buzzer

Can anyone tell me where the relay is located on an 86 Cutlass Supreme
Coupe that handles the buzzer for lights on/key in ignition when the car is
off? The toggle in the door jam still turns the courtesy light on and off, but
the buzzer is dead. I am hoping it is in some nice convenient location like
under the dashboard near the fuse box so I don't have to take the dashboard
apart? Thanks.. Joanne

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:36:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass 350/350 to 455/400

You'll need to change the brackets that set down in the saddle that receive 
the 
motor mounts. If the trans is has a long tail you'll have to work with moving 
the cross member, and you might have to have the drive shaft shortened. You 
will 
go from a mechanical passing gear on your gas pedal to an electrical one.
Really an easy conversion except for these changes.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 06:08:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Key/Lights Buzzer 

Hi, 
  I'm having a problem with my '86 Cutlass (a lot of 86 Cutlass' today) where 
the rear defroster isn't working.  It worked on + off for a while , but 
doesen't respond at all anymore.  No, it's not the fuse, and yes it could be 
the switch.  Any other ideas though?  Also, my cruise doesn't work at all 
anymore.  It would work for a while (at the end of when it stopped working) 
when I turned on the windshield wipers, so it may be a wiring problem in the 
turn signal shaft.  Any helpful hints, or is this going to be a royal pain to 
fix?  One other thing, when I start it up, and it's idleing high, and I put 
it in reverse (and the tourque (spelling?) converter kicks in), it makes sort 
of a loud cracking noise.  Possibly a universal joint that's loose?  Any 
idea's on these subjects would be very helpful.
                                                     Thank you,
                                                       Craig
                                                        Kissrulz@gnn.com
                                                        '86 Cutlass supreme
                                                        '68 442 convertable

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:06:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Stolen

dink@infinet.com wrote:
> 
> Well today sucked.  Some asshole stole my baby, my Oldsmobeast.

Dink,

Geez, man, I don't know what to say.  You right, this really sucks.

> It was stolen from work in the middle of the day, in a sorta nice part 
> of town. 

No point in going to the bad side of town to steal junkers.

> I guess they stole it for a different reason.  

Living in Tampa, one if the car-theft capitals of the country, the vast 
majority we see are kids joy-riding.  When they run them out of gas, they 
leave them in a parking lot and steal the one next to it.  Let's hope 
that's all that happened to yours.

> Sorry for venting but I had to.

Under the circumstances, you're being far more reserved that I would be. 

Keep on the cops.  I've never had much luck with them unless you bug the 
hell out of them (or distribute doughnuts).  We're pullin' for ya.

WE LOVE YA MAN!

The 66 Toro and Mike 


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Jerry Childers" <FlashJRC@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:24:59 -0300
Subject: RE: Vanity Plates (Was Re: '84 H/O's, steering gears, etc.) 

There is a great vanity plate on a Vette here in B'ham: IXLR8 or "I 
accelerate".

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Andrew C. Green
Sent: 	Friday, July 19, 1996 1:45 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Vanity Plates (Was Re: '84 H/O's, steering gears, etc.)

>On vanity plates, saw a Vette last night that said, "MYIN".  As in,
>"Mine, mine, all mine, mwahaha!", I guess.

Nominations for _good_ vanity plates? I can think of two (we have a
seven-letter maximum in Illinois) I've seen in the past:

A dark-blue metallic '69 442:  DRK STAR

A nice Champagne Bronze SSEi:  MY WINGS


Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #251
********************************
 
