
oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 9 July 1996        Volume 01 : Number 230


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:55:53 -0300
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On Mon, 8 Jul 1996 13:09:04 -0400 Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 13:09:04 -0400
> Subject: Re: 70 88 duals xman revisited
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> 
> > At 04:52 PM 6/21/96 -0300, Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> > >Anybody KNOW for sure the casting code and/or number for a LH duals xst
> > >manifold for a 70 88 such as W33 car?
> 
> Jason Writes:
> > The Mitchell Interchange Manual that I have gives the following casting
#'s:
> > 1970 455, 390hp Dual Exhaust
> > LH: 406199
> >
> > *this manifold can be found on the following cars:
> > Olds 65-66, 425, LH, Dual Exh
> > Olds 67, 425, Dual Exh, LH
> > Olds 68-69, 455, Dual Exh, LH
>   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> > Olds 70, 455, 390HP, LH
> 
> That's funny, the '69 big car 455 I just recently picked up has not a 406199
LH
> xst manifold, but an "S" manifold, the number of which escapes me right now.
> The mystery is still thick...
> --
> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu


Hi..
According to my GM 62-71 Olds Parts Catalog, 406199 is the correct number for
350 
360 380 series with a 455 "performance package" engine LH xst manifold.  The 
number for the regular 455 (without duals) is 393384.  These numbers were not 
used originally on any other years, however by the late 70s part number 406199 
had superceded prior 425 and 455 engines with dual exhaust.  So if you drove
your 
65 98 with duals into a GM dealer in 1981 to get the LH manifold replaced,
you'd 
get 406199, even though the original number was 387297.  This is why Mitchell 
lists it that way.  Confusing, eh?

If you're looking for the original casting for a 70 88 with the W33 performance

engine, 406199 is the correct number.  All this information only applies to
full size 
Olds (88 98 Toro), by the way.  At the moment I don't have the material on
Cutlass's

Of course the left hand manifolds have been hard to find for a while it seems,
so if 
someone put on the single manifold (393384) and had the exhaust pipe custom 
build to fit it, that would be another explanation.  If you send me the numbe
you 
have, I'll try to find its original application.

Good Luck .....


graham.stewart@utoronto.ca





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Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:44:17 -0300
From: Graham Stewart <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Subject: Re: 70 88 duals xman revisited
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:55:54 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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On Mon, 8 Jul 1996 13:09:04 -0400 Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 13:09:04 -0400
> Subject: Re: 70 88 duals xman revisited
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> 
> > At 04:52 PM 6/21/96 -0300, Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> > >Anybody KNOW for sure the casting code and/or number for a LH duals xst
> > >manifold for a 70 88 such as W33 car?
> 
> Jason Writes:
> > The Mitchell Interchange Manual that I have gives the following casting
#'s:
> > 1970 455, 390hp Dual Exhaust
> > LH: 406199
> >
> > *this manifold can be found on the following cars:
> > Olds 65-66, 425, LH, Dual Exh
> > Olds 67, 425, Dual Exh, LH
> > Olds 68-69, 455, Dual Exh, LH
>   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> > Olds 70, 455, 390HP, LH
> 
> That's funny, the '69 big car 455 I just recently picked up has not a 406199
LH
> xst manifold, but an "S" manifold, the number of which escapes me right now.
> The mystery is still thick...
> --
> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu


Hi..
According to my GM 62-71 Olds Parts Catalog, 406199 is the correct number for
350 
360 380 series with a 455 "performance package" engine LH xst manifold.  The 
number for the regular 455 (without duals) is 393384.  These numbers were not 
used originally on any other years, however by the late 70s part number 406199 
had superceded prior 425 and 455 engines with dual exhaust.  So if you drove
your 
65 98 with duals into a GM dealer in 1981 to get the LH manifold replaced,
you'd 
get 406199, even though the original number was 387297.  This is why Mitchell 
lists it that way.  Confusing, eh?

If you're looking for the original casting for a 70 88 with the W33 performance

engine, 406199 is the correct number.  All this information only applies to
full size 
Olds (88 98 Toro), by the way.  At the moment I don't have the material on
Cutlass's

Of course the left hand manifolds have been hard to find for a while it seems,
so if 
someone put on the single manifold (393384) and had the exhaust pipe custom 
build to fit it, that would be another explanation.  If you send me the numbe
you 
have, I'll try to find its original application.

Good Luck .....


graham.stewart@utoronto.ca





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Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:44:17 -0300
From: Graham Stewart <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Subject: Re: 70 88 duals xman revisited
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Cc: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:55:57 -0300
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>       The gas pedal on 89, Cutlass Ciera feels heavy any suggestion ?
> Was used to driving 93 Corolla. Specially in city driving with speed
> range of 40 - 60 pedal doesn't work smooth. Needs extra force to push
> the padel( ther is resistence).
> 
>       Any helpful hints are appriciated.

buy heavier shoes..  most people who switch from imports to GM have
to do this,,   GM Goodwrench sells a stylish pair in 8-13mens, Thom
McHann sells the same pair for $30 less. either that or go to a junkyard
and find a corolla gas pedal and epoxy it to the top of your Oldsmobile
gas pedal.   


Doug Ahern      doug@cosmic.uga.edu  1964 F-85 Cutlass 
http://www.cosmic.uga.edu/doug.html  1969 Dart 
Sys Admin, COSMIC, Univ. of Georgia  1974 Satellite ex-cop car



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From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Subject: Re: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA)
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 16:53:53 -0300
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:55:58 -0300
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Uh, WD-40?

The 66 Toro and Mike (ducking)


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649



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To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: Re: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA)
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:55:58 -0300
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Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 8 Jul 1996 BRAD.NICHOLSON@s3abac8.ssa.gov wrote:
> > transfer rate seemed real slow.  You definetely need the ShockWave 
> > and Quicktime VR add ons for Netscape Navigator to make the site 
> > "move".
> 
> Yes, I found it very slow as well. 

I though it about average.

> Their last suggestion was to re-download and re-install Netscape 2.x 
> again, then re-download and re-install Shockwave.

Typical response from technical support staffed by dorks who haven't the 
faintest idea of how any of this stuff actually works.  Those that know 
get promoted, those that don't answer phones.

> Seriously, has anyone here found that software to work ok? Did you have
> to do anything trick to set it up? I'd love to see the Olds site in all
> it's glory...

I've never bothered with the add-ons.  The internet has gotten slow 
enough and with a not-to-quick site like Olds, the last thing I want is 
the additional overhead of plug-ins.  BTW, I've yet to download one that 
worked correctly from the git-go.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:40:56 -0300
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Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> If you tap into the (um... white?) wire which collects the grounds for 
> all the other interior lights on the circuit, it will go on with all 
> the other lights when somebody opens a door and triggers one of the pin 
> switches in the door jamb.

RELATED TECH NOTE: By connecting more pin-switches to the common-ground 
wiring, you can have additional trips for interior lighting such as rear 
doors on the 4-doors (which for some reason rarely seems to have the 
switches) or a hatchback.  Have done this to many of my vehicles over the 
years including van side and rear doors.

Also note that adding lights MAY require you to change the fuse to one 
with a slightly higher rating (but additional pin-switches wouldn't).

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:02:13 -0300
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At 03:42 PM 7/8/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>First project is to drain the 10 year old gas and get some fresh fuel in it. 
>>Any suggestions before I start the engine for the first time in several
>>years?
>
>*** WARNING ***
>This muther-scratcher is l-o-n-g...
>
<snip>

Thanks for the all the good advice!

I should have mentioned that this is(was) a freshly rebuilt engine. .030"
over 350 block, new pistons & rings (10.5 - 1), crane cam (I forget the
specs off the top of my head but it's a lumpy muther), Holly intake and 750
duel feed carb, Mallory breakerless distributer and Accel Supercoil. New
valves, springs, and pushrods. I had also replaced the waterpump, alt, and
starter. 

This engine has never been broken in since I never quite finished it. Why??
Went to college, got a job, got married...you know all the excuses. I know I
will have to replace the seals (the garage floor was a good hint) and I also
plan to do the oil changes as recommended. Would you modify or add anything
considering it's a rebuilt engine?

Thanks Again!
Todd Hall ('72 Cutlass)
thall@en.com    



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:02:13 -0300
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 The gas pedal on 89, Cutlass Ciera feels heavy any suggestion ?
Was used to driving 93 Corolla. Specially in city driving with speed 
range of 40 - 60 pedal doesn't work smooth. Needs extra force to push 
the padel( ther is resistence).

          Two things.  First, I suspect there is just a different feel 
          in the olds than there was in the Corolla.  This could be 
          due to different throttle springs, different linkage ratios, 
          etc.  Second, there is a good possibility that the throttle 
          cable on the Ciera is worn, especially with your note that 
          the excessive friction appears primarily in a certain 
          throttle position.  An easy way to check for this is to 
          disconnect the throttle cable from the carb/throttle body 
          under the hood.  Attempt to move the cable manually; any 
          excessive force or binding in this action is cause to 
          replace the cable.  The throttle cable is a multi-strand 
          stainless steel cable inside a plastic sheath.  Some of the 
          strands of the cable will often fray and break inside the 
          sheath, causing them to dig into the plastic and increase 
          the friction and required operating force.  Note that this 
          condition can lead to a stuck throttle (yes, I speak from 
          experience), so I would check here first.
          
          Also, do not ever lubricate the throttle linkage, at least 
          not under the hood, with anything but a dry graphite 
          lubricant.  WD-40 or other liquid lubes or grease may 
          temporarily make the problem go away, however in the long 
          run these lubricants will pick up underhood grit and grime, 
          compounding linkage friction.  Binding or friction in the 
          linkage (at least, cable-style throttle linkages) is an 
          indication of another problem which should be fixed.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:02:14 -0300
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Hey, anyone out there that can help me?

I have a set of heads and a 4-bbl manifold off an un-known Olds engine. 
The  car was either a '70 or '74 Cutlass 4-door (I think).  I don't know the
engine size, but I'm sure it was the original engine.  After scraping off
some of the grease and grime, I discovered that the original color was a
gold/bronze.  The Intake manifold has OLDSMOBILE cast into it in raised
letters.  The only numbers I could find on the heads looked like: 
CFB 411 828, but the light was dim and they were covered in oil. 
There were no apparent numbers on the intake manifold, except for
the firing order.  The valve covers had Oldsmobile embossed on them,
and were also the same gold/bronze color.

If anyone can tell me what cid engine these came off of, I'd really
appreciate it.  If those numbers are incorrect, tell me where to find the
correct ones.  Thanks!

- -BS


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------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 21:07:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Headers (was: 493 olds stroker..) 

In a message dated 96-07-09 16:37:15 EDT, you write:

<<  I suspect the operative term is "competition", as these tend 
           to be larger diameter tubes than street headers.  >>
Didn't  look any larger than my old Olds (I like that) headers.  Just had the
little tag tacked on informing the world that you a set of "Competition"
headers. Ohhh.

Bob Handren.

------------------------------

From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:02:16 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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Hey, anyone out there that can help me?
          
The valve covers had Oldsmobile embossed on them, and were also the 
same gold/bronze color.


          The gold color is indicative of a 350 cid engine.  The 
          embossed valve covers were used in the mid-1970s, so it is 
          definitely _not_ a 1970 (at least the valve covers aren't 
          from a 70...).  BTW, these embossed valve covers look great 
          when chromed.  I've done this on a nuber of cars, and 
          everyone asks where I got the valve covers.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



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------------------------------

From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:02:18 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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>At 06:32 PM 4/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>I found a green liquid beginning to rust the front passenger floor pan in my
>>`72 Vista Cruiser     My motor's auto repair manual says that the heater
>>case assembly comes out after the blower motor is removed but that can't be
>>right.  They must mean the blower an shroud along with it.
>>
>>>Greg Pruett
>>
>>Greg:
>
>Unfortunately the manual is right.  Good cars have been sent to heaven over

[SNIP]

Funny you should mention this...
One of my co-workers is putting AC in his Chevelle. For the heat exchanger
he went the disassembly route... BUT, he said it was worth it because you
can practically stand there and work instead of reaching around everything.


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************




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------------------------------

From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:04:42 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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Here is some more info (for that missing/overlooked/stuff not there  stuff)

for section B. ENGINES 1949 - 1964
             1.  What CID's 

303:  1949 - 1953  (you had the years xxx'ed out, I assume that means you 
324:  1954 - 1956      didn't have the info...)


for section D. ENGINES 1994 - PRESENT
             1. What CID's

A 4.0 liter engine is actually a 244, not a 200 as you had listed; I don't
know the actual displacement of the Auroro engine, though.

Some more engine info:

Year    Disp.     Comp.    Bore    Stroke     HP        Torque     Induction
49-51   303     7.5 to 1   3.75     3.44   135 @ 3600  253 @ 1800    2 bbl
52      303     7.5 to 1   3.75     3.44   160 @ 3600  265 @ 2000    4 bbl
53      303     8.0 to 1   3.75     3.44   165 @ 3600  275 @ 2200    4 bbl
54      324    8.25 to 1   3.88     3.44   185 @ 4000  300 @ 2000    4 bbl
55      324     8.5 to 1   3.88     3.44   202 @ 4000  332 @ 2400    4 bbl
56      324    9.25 to 1   3.88     3.44   240 @ 4400  350 @ 2800    4 bbl
57      370    9.75 to 1   4.00     3.69   300 @ 4600  410 @ 2800   Tri-Power
58      370    10.0 to 1   4.00     3.69   312 @ 4600  415 @ 2800   Tri-Power
59-60   394    9.75 to 1   4.125    3.69   315 @ 4600  435 @ 2800    4 bbl
61      394    10.0 to 1   4.125    3.69   325 @ 4600  435 @ 2800    4 bbl
62      394   10.25 to 1   4.125    3.69   330 @ 4600  440 @ 2800    4 bbl
63-64   394    10.5 to 1   4.125    3.69   345 @ 4800  440 @ 3200    4 bbl
62-63   215    10.0 to 1   3.50     2.80   215 @ 4600  301 @ 3200    Turbo 
64      330   10.25 to 1   3.94     3.39   310 @ 5200  355 @ 3600    4 bbl
65      400   10.25 to 1   4.00     3.98   345 @ 4800  440 @ 3200    4 bbl
66-69   400    10.5 to 1   4.00     3.98   350 @ 4800  440 @ 3600    4 bbl
66      400    10.5 to 1   4.00     3.98   360 @ 5200  440 @ 3600   Tri-Power
66-67   425    10.5 to 1   4.13     3.97   385 @ 4800  475 @ 3200    4 bbl
68-69   400    10.5 to 1   4.00     3.98   360 @ 5400  440 @ 3600    4 bbl
68-70   455   10.25 to 1   4.13     4.25   400 @ 4800  500 @ 3200    4 bbl
70      455    10.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   365 @ 4600  510 @ 3000    4 bbl
70      455    10.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   370 @ 5400  300 @ 3600    4 bbl
71      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   340 @ 4600  460 @ 3200    4 bbl
71      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   350 @ 4200  460 @ 2800    4 bbl
72      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   300 @ 4200  410 @ 3200    4 bbl
73      455     8.5 to 1   4.13     4.25   270 @ 4400  370 @ 3200    4 bbl     


There was also an engine coded W-43 in 1969-1970, though it was never
offered as a production unit.  It was a four valve per cylinder 455 cid
engine.  It was developed in 1969-1970 by John Beltz, Lloyd Gill, Joe Jones,
and Frank Ball.  It was rated at 500 to 550 hp at 6500 rpm with a single
Rochester Quadrajet on an aluminum manifold.  It was constructed with a cast
iron block and heads as well as an aluminum block and heads, which shaved 75
pounds of the 455 cid production engine weight.  The engine had narrow valve
angles for super-efficient combustion chamber design, central spark plugs
(hemi heads!) and could be adapted for chain or gear driven overhead
camshafts.  

The engine had a 4.125 inch bore and 4.250 inch stroke, used 3.00 inch main
bearings and 2.50 inch rod journals, had 10.2 to 1 compression, and a four
bolt main block.  Intake valves measured 1.750 inches and exhaust valves
measured 1.375 inches (four valves per cylinder).

There was an experimental engine based on the W-43, coded OW-43.  It was
designed for road racing applications.  It had the same basic configuration
as the W-43, but the materials were different.  The block was cast from
Reynolds-356 alloy and fitted with pressed in dry steel cylinder liners for
the forged 12.2 to 1 pistons.  It used billet steel connecting rods and a
machined forged steel crank.

The OW-43 was developed at the same time that Chevrolet released it's all
aluminum ZL-1 427 engine, but the Olds engine was far more advanced and
exotic than the Chevrolet engine.  It had a redline just under 8500 rpm, and
put out 300 HP at 3000 rpm, and 600 HP at 6000 rpm.  The top output recorded
for this engine at the Lansing dyno facility was 700 _REAL_ horsepower at
6800 rpm.  Tests were run with both carburetion (four Weber 48-IDA two
barrels) and injection (three-inch ram stacks), with injection showing the
most potential over 6000 rpm.

Here are casting numbers for some engine blocks (1964-72):

Small Block
CID    Year     Casting #     ID code
330   64-67     381917         A
350   68-72     395558         2 (69 is bronze, don't know about other years)
394    64       585786         ?
 

Almost all of this info comes from the book "Oldsmobile, The Performance
Years" by Martyn L. Schorr, published in 1983 by Quiksilver Communications.
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net



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------------------------------

From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:04:44 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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Salut tout le monde:

FINALLY, today I finally got around to replacing the left front caliper 
on my 82 Delta 88 Royale Brougham.  I've had the part for awhile but 
haven't had the time to do it.  For the last month I've been using my 
second vehicle, 81 Vo*vo, which I've had to use for 2 very long trips.  
I can say that after going for a cruise this afternoon I really miss my 
olds.  The comfort factor alone is enough to want to keep on driving it. 
 I accquired the other (car) due to the cost of gas here (it was free 
and all I had to do was put a motor in it) and tried to convince myself 
that it would be for the best...  I think I might just have to sell it 
and invest the proceeds into the olds, i.e. some neglected body work or 
perhaps start the hunt for the 350 I'd like to put in it.

I do have an olds related question for the gurus out there:

Vacumn secondaries:  having a heavy foot at times I like to tromp on it 
once in awhile and I've noticed that its got a bit of a flat spot before 
picking up RPMs.  With the air cleaner off and blipping the throttle I 
noticed that the secondaries were slow to open.  What should I be 
looking for to fix this?

JK McCall
jkmccall@qbc.clic.net


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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:04:45 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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>At 10:48 PM 7/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>Well for one they reduce a bit of weight, but the big thing is they can
>spin a high compression engine over easier, and faster, without breaking
>down as a conventional one tends to do after any time on such an engine.
>>
>>----------
>>
>>What is the advantage of these expensive "high torque" starters if one is
>>having no starter problems?  From what I have seen and read about them, they
>>are actually small electric motors using a reduction gear drive.  I thought
>>they were a "race" item intended to reduce weight a few ounces.
>>
>>Other than that, what do they have to offer?
>>
>>Bob Handren
>>
>>Bob:
>
>I have some high compression cars (1967 Toronado, 1968 442, 1970 Buick GS
>455, 1963 Supercharged Avanti, 1969 390 AMX, 1963 Dodge 383, 1962 Dodge 361)
>& they do fine on their standard starters.  The compression ranges form 9.0
>to 10.75.  Most have AC & other electrical accessories.  Most starters are
>old too.  I think that a good condition starter & electrical system will do
>well on even high compression.
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama
>>

Agreed! The starter for your engine will work! A heat shield will make it
work longer (especially if you modify the exhaust). BIG battery cables WILL
make a difference (Try 0 Gauge instead of 4 Gauge).


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************




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------------------------------

From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:04:46 -0300
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     Hi guys!  Good to be back, been on vacation the last week. . .
     
     Anyways, everyone I've talked to says that shift kits are good for the 
     tranny.  The theory is that a quicker shift gives the tranny less time 
     to slip.  While it's slipping parts are wearing away.  The problem is 
     that not everyone wants neck-snapping shifts, so they didn't make them 
     that way from the factory.
     
     On another note, I got to go out to the pull-n-save junkyard today.  I 
     didn't find anything I was looking for, but I did see several smogger 
     350's, an older 350 (no egr) with #5 heads and a 4bbl, and a big block 
     (dunno the CID) in an old (also pre-egr) 98 w/ C heads and a 2-bbl.  
     If anyone is interested they're in Spokane, WA.  The place wants about 
     $160 for an entire engine (everything, including accessories, but you 
     pull it), considerably less with a core exchange.  Heads were $24, 
     manifolds $12.  Also less with core exchange.  I know C heads are 
     valuable and I'da grabbed em if I had a use for them.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Fwd: Shift kits
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/2/96 5:26 PM


In a message dated 96-07-01 23:07:23 EDT, chip@in-motion.net (Chip McMann) 
writes:
     
>One more thing.....Are Shift kits bad for a transmission???
     
  I know nothing about
shift kits, except that I've heard guys talk about how they have one and 
except for that I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to put one in the tranny as 
is.


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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:04:48 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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I have two questions:

Q1:
Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?  A few months ago, I found a
Pontiac 455 with TH400 tranny for $600 (and the *ugly* car even came
with it!).  The engine ran decent, but would need rebuilt.  Even still, I
thought that was an excellent deal... but I passed it up, because I couldn't
find anyone that was smart enough to answer this question.  Two
different mechanics said, "yeah".  Then when I asked, "are you sure?",
one said, "uh well", and the other one said, "sure I'm sure!", but he didn't
look confident in himself.  Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400
was different than the Olds, and wouldn't bolt up anyway.

Q2:
What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the line.

Thanks for the help...

- -BS


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From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: Need help...
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:10:09 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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At 04:53 PM 8/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>       The gas pedal on 89, Cutlass Ciera feels heavy any suggestion ?
>> Was used to driving 93 Corolla. Specially in city driving with speed
>> range of 40 - 60 pedal doesn't work smooth. Needs extra force to push
>> the padel( ther is resistence).
>> 
>>       Any helpful hints are appriciated.
>
>buy heavier shoes..  most people who switch from imports to GM have
>to do this,,   GM Goodwrench sells a stylish pair in 8-13mens, Thom
>McHann sells the same pair for $30 less. either that or go to a junkyard
>and find a corolla gas pedal and epoxy it to the top of your Oldsmobile
>gas pedal.   
>
>
>Doug Ahern      

>Doug:

He sure is lucky to have you around.  There is no need for further help
after your advice.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
>



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From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Need help with heavy gas padel( 89 CUT CIERA)
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:10:11 -0300
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Bill wrote:

I have some high compression cars (1967 Toronado, 1968 442, 1970 Buick =
GS
455, 1963 Supercharged Avanti, 1969 390 AMX, 1963 Dodge 383, 1962 Dodge =
361)
& they do fine on their standard starters.  The compression ranges form =
9.0
to 10.75.  Most have AC & other electrical accessories.  Most starters =
are
old too.  I think that a good condition starter & electrical system will =
do
well on even high compression. =20

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
While this may be true you have to take into account advertized =
compression ratio's are seldom as high as they say, and also when I say =
high comrpression engines I refer to 10:5 actual  and up. Anything under =
this a standard starter should be able to handle>
>
>
>
>
>







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From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
To: "'oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca'" <oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Subject: RE: Hi Torque Starter
Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:11:19 -0300
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:10:12 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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I have a 69 air condition dash I may be persuaded to part with.

- ----------
From: 	JIM DAVIDSON[SMTP:"jdavidsn@ix.netcom.com"@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, July 07, 1996 11:16 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: '69 442 dash

Bryceman wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone know a good source for dashes. It seems most suppliers
> >(Supercars, Year One...) deal with everything but.
> >
> >Also, does any one know of any solutions to fixing a cracked dash.
> 
> I would try Halls Olds salvage. last time I was there, they had three 69
> dashes. Their address and phone is on the Olds page under Olds Parts
> Sources link.
> 
>  EXCESSIVE IRON rules the road!
> '65 442
> '66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
>  bryceman@442.com
>  www.442.com

In case you want to have the equivalent of a brand new dash for your car 
rather than a repaired one, I can recommend Just Dashes in Van Nuys, CA. 
They will completely redo your core and match the grain and color (from 
an unfaded area of the original).  Their work is not exactly cheap but 
it certainly is outstanding--and probably the same cost as a repro would 
be if one were available. Their phone number is (818)780-9005. I've had 
them do four dashes for me including a '59 Cadillac (that's a tough 
one!) and I've never been disappointed.  Jim Davidson, Los Angeles






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From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
To: "'oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca'" <oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Subject: RE: '69 442 dash
Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:12:29 -0300
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:10:15 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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.

1) Should the oil pump be primed in some way before I install it on the
engine? I've heard of people packing it with vaseline or another type of
grease, and know that a VW oil pump won't pump oil unless you fill it =
before
installation (don't ask how long I let the engine run before deciding =
that
oil light just *wasn't* going to go out...). What about on an Olds, =
then?
should I fill the pump with oil before installing it? Or would just
pre-lubing the engine be enough?

What I do is this. Get an old distributor and take the shaft out of it. =
Grind the gear teeth (only)  off the bottom then grind down the other =
end to fit a drill. Once the engine is in place install this tool in =
your drill then insert in the distributor hole. Spin your tool until you =
start to see oil coming out of some of your pushrods. At this point try =
and push down on all the rockers from the pushrod side. You will hear =
and feel a faint squirt as oil totally fills your lifters. Now turn your =
engine over by hand about 1/4 turn and repeat. This is because not all =
lifter oil holes are exposed at one time so you have to do this until =
all rockers are firm to the push. At this point you can acuratley adjust =
your lifter preload.

2) I've installed Mondello's windage tray on the bottom end, and have a =
few
questions about its "fit to application" nature. I dimpled the tray to =
clear
the rod bolts; should the edges be bent inward, however, to a specific
distance from the crank's counterweights in order to scrape off the oil? =
How
exactly should it fit?

This windage tray is a real piece of crap. Mondello should have much =
better quality for the price he charges for a bent bit of steel. At any =
rate this is a windage tray not a crank scraper. It should be a min. =
distance of 0.60 from any moving part. More clearance will not make any =
difference.

In addition, 8 nuts are supplied to attach the tray to the extra-long =
studs;
how are they installed? I have the tray sandwiched between two nuts on =
each
stud; is that what he planned?

Yes

Yes, I have the Mondello tech guide, but all he talks about is dimpling =
the
oil pan to clear the studs (BTW, a note to JM; hire a professional =
editor
for your next edition of that manual. The excellent information you do
provide is muddled by your (dis)organization of material, your sentence
structure (please, at least one noun and one verb in each sentence), and
your grammar.)
I agree completely.

Has anyone here on this list installed on of these pans? Any =
tips/warnings?
When you dimple your pan try and use as little heat as possible as it =
will weaken the pan to the point that a good hit will cut thrrough the =
metal. I usually make a deep sump pan by welding two stock pans =
together, this gives you all the clearance you will ever need, plus it =
holds a lot more oil with a stock height bottom. The one I just made =
holds 8 quarts.
3) Finally, the rebuild kit included a freeze-plug package, but I'm at a
loss as to where some of the plugs they provide go. The cam plug and the
freeze plugs are pretty self evident; it's the specs on the rear left =
oil
galley plug that I need help on (the one that covers up the threaded =
galley
plug). There are three plugs left in the kit: 19/32" (definitely not =
it),
29/32" and 15/16" plugs. It appears as though either of these last two =
plugs
could be used for that hole, but I don't want to use up one meant for
another place where the other plug *wouldn't* work.
Can't help there sorry.

Once that Q is answered, then where do the other two plugs go? Is one of
these (the 19/32" perhaps) the oil pump pressure spring retaining cup? =
The
shop manuals give no indication of possible uses for the two remaining
plugs. Any experience here would be greatly appreciated.
Dr. Robert Barry
Theology Dept.
Providence College
Providence RI 02908







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From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
To: "'oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca'" <oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Subject: RE: Priming oil pump, windage tray and cup plug Q's
Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:28:36 -0300
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:10:16 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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>Hello, All... I just purchased a cheepie Sun mechanical water 
>temperature gauge, and was wondering where I should install the sending 
>unit. It says I can't use a "T" connector,

Nope; you need to immerse the sending unit or switch right in the coolant
flow, and a T fitting won't let you do that. Wish someone had told the
Chicago Tribune syndicated "Motormouth" columnist that a couple of weeks
ago, before he told three million folks that you could do that.  :-(

>and I don't want to disturb 
>the computer's signal.

Nope.

>It's a 1986 Olds 307/4Bbl. It's been pinging a 
>lot, and I can't seem to get it to stop.

Just curious: what octane of fuel are you putting in? I used 89 routinely
in my '82, but _one_ tankful of 87 put in by someone who borrowed the car
gave me a lot of knocking until it was all gone...

>I see three sending units in the front of 
>the intake manifold, I assume the one in the very front is the oil 
>pressure sender, due to it's small neck circumference.

Well... You have idiot lights, right? For the single-wire sending units,
you can turn on the ignition and test to see which is which. The oil
pressure warning will be on, but will go _off_ as soon as you unplug
the wire from the sending unit (actually it's just a switch which is
grounding that circuit when the engine's not running), but come on again
when you ground the lead against the block. Find the temperature warning 
switch, the one you should be looking for, the same way by grounding its 
lead on the engine block to see whether the TEMP warning light goes on.

Don't mess with any sending unit having a twisted-pair (i.e. more than one)
wire attached; those are computer sensors.

Once you've found the temp sender switch, replace it with your Sun gauge
sender. The TEMP light won't work anymore (although the bulb in the dash
will come on during bulb proveout when you crank the starter), but you've
got a gauge in there now, which is better.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:14:09 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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>Dear Oldspersons:
>
>Any information as to how to obtain '71 taillight bezels?
>
>Darrell T. Weinman, M.D.
>
>
>I have seen 71 taillight bezels in the Year One catalog for Olds. 
Robert Bishop  71 Olds Cutlass Supreme SX 455



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From: rbishop@iamerica.net (robert bishop)
Subject: Re: '71 442 taillight bezels
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:14:12 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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Drew Senko (me) wrote:

>> ...and one lonely Oldsmobile.  It's an '83 H/O Black and gray exterior.
>> Interior looked pretty good (to me).  The gauges claimed 62K miles.  The
>> car had 15" chrome SSII (or SSIII, they were chrome so what's the
>> difference?) wheels that needed some attention.  The bottoms of the doors
>> did not exhibit any deterioration.  The car also has a moonroof.

>> The H/O was one of the few cars on the lot that did not have a price on the
>> window.  The place was closed so I couldn't ask.  If anyone's interested,
>> the place was Gene's Auto Sales in Bridgeville Delaware.

Bill Gochenour queried:

> You didn't mention the color of the interior, was it maroon or snad gray?

To which I now reply:

It was maroon.  One more thing I remember now is that the trunk lid had
holes that would imply it used to have a spoiler.

                    _
                    |\            Convertibles                     
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)                  http://members.gnn.com/senko
.________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________


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Subject: Re: H/O sighted [2]
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Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:52:14 -0300
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:14:13 -0300
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At 08:18 PM 7/7/96 -0300, oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca wrote:
>
>
>On Fri, 5 Jul 1996, Darrell T. Weinman, M.D. wrote:
>
>> Dear Oldspersons:
>> 
>> Any information as to how to obtain '71 taillight bezels?
>> 
>
>Do you need lenses?  If Delta 88 lenses are same, I have some in excellant
condition.  My bezels are pitted but intact.  Make offer.

Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:14:14 -0300
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I have two questions:
          
Q1:
Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?... 

          NO!!!  Unlike today, in the 60's and early 70's, each GM 
          division had their own unique engines.  Despite the fact 
          that Pontiac, Buick, and Olds all had 455s, each was 
          different, with differnt bore and stroke.  No parts 
          interchange except the distributor cap and carb gasket!  
          Most "experts" who claim that these engines are the same are 
          drawing from their "extensive" Ford/Mopar experience, where 
          a single corporate engine line is used across divisions.
          
...Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400 was different than the Olds, and 
wouldn't bolt up anyway.

          He would also be wrong.  The Buick, Pontiac, and Olds TH400s are 
          all the same, with the same bellhousing bolt pattern (there may be 
          some internal differences in shift points, depending on whether 
          the trans was slated for a luxury car or a performance car).  The 
          only thing to look out for is the tailshaft length.  A-body cars 
          (Cutlass/Skylark/LeMans) have short tailshafts, while big cars 
          have long ones.  This impacts driveshaft length and crossmember 
          mount location, so get the right one.

Q2:
What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?

          Any 68-72 A-body (Cutlass/F-85/442/Skylark/Special/Gran 
          Sport/Tempest/LeMans/GTO/Malibu/Chevelle/Monte Carlo/Grand 
          Prix).  Note that there are a bunch of options here, with 
          12-bolt Type-C, 12-bolt Type-O, 10-bolt Type-C (8.2 inch 
          ring gear), 10-bolt Type-O, and 10-bolt Corporate (8.5 inch 
          ring gear).  Any one of these will physically bolt into your 
          car, however the U-joint sizes may be different.  And, of 
          course, the strength of each varies, with the 12-bolt 
          Type-C(hevy) as the strongest (and with the best parts 
          availability).  Do you care about originality or not?
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:14:16 -0300
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     Too bad you didn't see a price on that H/O, it sounds like a pretty 
     good find.  From the description I'd say $4k maybe $5k would be a good 
     deal.  The moonroof is not a stock item that I've ever heard of on the 
     H/O's, probably an aftermarket addition?  Yes, that textured paint on 
     the rocker panels is stock.  It replaced the stainless rocker strips 
     that were on earlier G-bodies.  It's supposed to be tougher and resist 
     chipping from rocks much more than normal paint.  It seems to be doing 
     it's job on my H/O.
     
     I'm not sure I quite understand you about the transmission lines.  If 
     the car is just going to sit in your yard for the day while you take 
     the rad down with another car then you don't need to do anything.  
     I've just left the lines hanging there many times before and never 
     lost more than a few drops of fluid.  Just don't try to run the car 
     while they're off.


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: H/O sighted; replacing radiator
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/8/96 8:27 AM

love with, and one lonely Oldsmobile.  It's an '83 H/O Black and gray exterior.

Interior looked pretty good (to me).  The gauges claimed 62K miles.  The
car had 15" chrome SSII (or SSIII, they were chrome so what's the 
difference?) wheels that needed some attention.  The bottoms of the doors 
did not exhibit any deterioration.  The car also has a moonroof.
One strange thing, the lower sections of the body, the parts that 
were painted gray were not smooth, but had a textured look.

Now my only problem is, how do I plug the transmission line, or what
do I use to plug it for an entire day while I take the radiators with me to 
the shop?  Any suggestions?
     


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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:18:11 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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At 04:32 PM 5/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Here is some more info (for that missing/overlooked/stuff not there  stuff)
>
>for section B. ENGINES 1949 - 1964
>             1.  What CID's 
>
>
>61      394    10.0 to 1   4.125    3.69   325 @ 4600  435 @ 2800    4 bbl

Might add:
61-63    215    8.75 to 1   3.50     2.80   155 @ 4800  210 @ 3200    2 bbl
61-63    215   10.25 to 1   3.50     2.80   185 @ 4800  230 @ 3200    4 bbl
63       215   10.75 to 1   3.50     2.80   195 @ 4800  235 @ 3200    4 bbl

>62      394   10.25 to 1   4.125    3.69   330 @ 4600  440 @ 2800    4 bbl
>63-64   394    10.5 to 1   4.125    3.69   345 @ 4800  440 @ 3200    4 bbl

Might change:
>62-63   215   10.25 to 1   3.50     2.80   215 @ 4600  300 @ 3200    Turbo
(1 bbl)
 

>
>I thought that the 442 engine (400 - 455) was bronze, 350's were gold, &
455's were metallic blue up through 1972.
>
>Almost all of this info comes from the book "Oldsmobile, The Performance
>Years" by Martyn L. Schorr, published in 1983 by Quiksilver Communications.
>--
>Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
>dpauliso@metrolink.net
>
>
>
>Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

*215 information taken form 1961, 1962, 1963 Oldsmobile Chasis Manuals.



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:18:13 -0300
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Delta 88 lenses are not close.


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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:18:13 -0300
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>Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>> 
>> > Hey speaking of toro's, I've often wondered why they never reached a
>> > higher level of collectability? After all they were the " flag ship" 
>> > of the olds line, and i believe way ahead of there time.
>> 
>> Well, a lot of folks are more interested in performance, ya know... 
>> [uh-oh, *dons asbestos underwear*]
>> 
>> > really grown on me over the years and it woulndn't surprise me if 
>> > some day one of these will sit next to one of my 4-4-2s.
>> 
>> Grown on you, like a.. oh never mind, I think the water's hot enough 
>> already!
>> 
>> That VIRUS! It spreads & spreads! If only I had a -CARB- on the red 
>> one, I could still drive it around the fields, too!
>>
>> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

Watch it, Witt - we've been monitoring you over here on the Toro mini list.
Before you know it, you'll have a fleet of 5000 lb fwd monsters bearing-down
on you!!! :)


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:18:14 -0300
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I've heard that you shouldn't put the full-deal Trans Pak (B&M 
recalibrator, as opposed to the cheaper Shift Improver) on a trans with 
more than 50k miles on it.  Anyone have a clue as to why?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:18:17 -0300
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>
>In a message dated 96-07-01 23:07:23 EDT, chip@in-motion.net (Chip McMann) 
>writes:
>     
>>One more thing.....Are Shift kits bad for a transmission???
>     
>  I know nothing about
>shift kits, except that I've heard guys talk about how they have one and 
>except for that I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to put one in the tranny as 
>is.
>
>Speaking of shift kits - I will be putting one in my 400 Turbo trans for my
455 Buick.  Stage 1 cars had a much stiffer shift than regular 455's.  What
is a good shift kit to stiffen up the shifts in my car without going to a
strip type conversion?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:22:03 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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> Watch it, Witt - we've been monitoring you over here on the Toro mini list.
> Before you know it, you'll have a fleet of 5000 lb fwd monsters bearing-down
> on you!!! :)
> 
> 
> -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

Good thinking!  He may be able to find good homes for those engines...

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v



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Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:34:31 -0300
From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
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Subject: Re: SICK'EM BOYS!
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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:22:04 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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At 06:06 PM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I have two questions:
>
>Q1:
>Is a Pontiac 455 the same as an Olds 455?  A few months ago, I found a

No, completely different design (just like their 350's and 400's are
completely different).

>Pontiac 455 with TH400 tranny for $600 (and the *ugly* car even came
>with it!).  The engine ran decent, but would need rebuilt.  Even still, I
>thought that was an excellent deal... but I passed it up, because I couldn't
>find anyone that was smart enough to answer this question.  Two
>different mechanics said, "yeah".  Then when I asked, "are you sure?",
>one said, "uh well", and the other one said, "sure I'm sure!", but he didn't
>look confident in himself.  Another guy told me that the Pontiac TH400
>was different than the Olds, and wouldn't bolt up anyway.

Actually, the Pontiac and Olds TH400's *are* identical (man, that guy isn't
right about anything!). The B-O-P (Buick-Olds-Pontiac, and also Cadillac)
bellhousing patterns are identical, and differ only from Chevy within the GM
transmission line.

>Q2:
>What late '60 - '70's cars came with Positraction rear-ends that will
>bolt up to my '72 Cutlass Supreme without modifications?  I'm sure there's
>got to be a whole slew of them, but I don't have any idea where to begin
>looking.  I'm tired of burning up *a* tire every time I hit it off the line.

Any '68-'72 A-body (Chevelle, Malibu, Cutlass, 442, Vista Cruiser, Tempest,
LeMans, GTO, Grand Prix (after '69), Monte Carlo, El Camino, Skylark, GS)
are all direct bolt-ins, except perhaps for the u-joints. I believe
positraction was an option on all these lines for all these years. The
earlier '64-'67 rear axles will also bolt-in, I believe, but are narrower;
fine if you want to fit more tire and modify the wheelwell.

>Thanks for the help...
>
>-BS
>
>

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:22:07 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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At 10:57 AM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>     On another note, I got to go out to the pull-n-save junkyard today.  I 
>     didn't find anything I was looking for, but I did see several smogger 
>     350's, an older 350 (no egr) with #5 heads and a 4bbl, and a big block 

That older 350 is probably a '69; good starting point for a small-block
buildup.

>     (dunno the CID) in an old (also pre-egr) 98 w/ C heads and a 2-bbl.  

Likely a '68-'69 motor, also likely low-compression.

>     If anyone is interested they're in Spokane, WA.  The place wants about 
>     $160 for an entire engine (everything, including accessories, but you 
>     pull it), considerably less with a core exchange.  Heads were $24, 
>     manifolds $12.  Also less with core exchange.  I know C heads are 
>     valuable and I'da grabbed em if I had a use for them.

Yeah, sell them to Dick Miller Racing; Chris W., what's the going price on
these at the moment? Or have you flooded the market...?

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)



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From: "Mailer" <Mailer.Central_Message_Center@inbox.ei.educ.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:22:09 -0300
Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) 

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I drained the old gas out of my '72 Cutlass this morning. I pulled one of
the fuel lines from the back of the tank and siphoned it out. What I was
curious about is why are there four fuel lines out of the tank and where do
they all go?  

Some are for the fuel pump and the other 2 are for the vapor cannister.

Roger Borlase
http:\\www.microdata.com\rborlase


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Date: 	Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:43:54 -0300
From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
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Subject: RE: fuel lines
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #230
********************************

