
oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 22 July 1996        Volume 01 : Number 243


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From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 23:50:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 350 engin nock

Octane deficiency. If you had a 71 that probably wouldn't happen.

------------------------------

From: Mike Coccagna <MikeC@oz.kis.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 23:56:04 -0300
Subject: Re: quad 4

curly@sgi.net wrote:
> 
> At 12:55 AM 7/20/96 -0300, you wrote:

> hey mike it's it just a plain jane olds calais with no options...just have a
> ceterforce clutch, K&N, and flowmaster...and no haven't seen the GM book i
> supposed i can get that at any GM dealer thanks

GM Performance Parts catalogs are usually found at Ch*vy dealers.  
About $4 if I remember right.

Also, you can get a HyperChip and different thermo (at least for the H.O.)

BTW, This makes at least 3 Quad4 owners here.  Watch out Toros, 
our virus us starting!!!!

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 00:02:49 -0300
Subject: Re:  Loose wheel

>>and he tells me to buy a used wheel in similar or better condition and
>>they'll replace it. 

>You have this in writing, right?

Uh, to be clear, I should have said "and they'll pay me back."  Nope,
didn't get it in writing, I never think of these things.  I believe,
however, that the threat of a lawsuit will probably induce them to
change their minds, should they choose to reneg.

Shawn


- -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------==============================
                                

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 00:05:34 -0300
Subject: 490 cid small block

>Well, my dream is to drop a cut-down 425 crank into a solid-main 403 block,
>get 490ci with stock bore, and drop it in an '83 H/O. I'd like a 7000rpm
>*small-block* Olds, with 1hp/ci, putting out about 500hp but looking like a
>180hp 307...

Goodness.  And I was worried that people might think dropping a 350 in
my '84 would be blasphemous.  Only thing here...you have to make it as
docile and "gentlemanly" as the stock motor.  Its just a rule.

Shawn

- -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------==============================
                                

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 00:11:49 -0300
Subject: quad 4

>From: curly@sgi.net
>Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:41:05 -0300
>Subject: quad 4

Yep, go to any GM dealer and ask them for the '96 "GM Performance Parts
Catalogue."  About $8 or so.  I don't have it in front of me, but from
memory there's quite a bit of good stuff in there for the Quad 4.  Other
Olds stuff includes DRCE racing blocks, which take Chevy big block
components, aftermarket-style gauges with the Olds rocket logo, not too
much for Olds V8s, but they did have some valve covers and it seems to
me they maybe had one or two cams....in any case, prices aren't in the
catalogue itself but you can bet they're sky high.

Shawn

- -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------==============================
                                

------------------------------

From: Mike Coccagna <MikeC@oz.kis.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 00:20:45 -0300
Subject: Re: quad 4

Shawn Twomey wrote:
> 
> >From: curly@sgi.net
> >Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:41:05 -0300
> >Subject: quad 4
> 
> Yep, go to any GM dealer and ask them for the '96 "GM Performance Parts
> Catalogue."  About $8 or so.  I don't have it in front of me, but from
> memory there's quite a bit of good stuff in there for the Quad 4.

Just ran and got it.  P/N 12365414 	Retail Price - $6.95

There are about three pages of parts, including a setup to replace the 
fuel injection with Mikuni or Webers, cams, etc.

>  Other Olds stuff includes DRCE racing blocks, which take Chevy big block
> components, aftermarket-style gauges with the Olds rocket logo, not too
> much for Olds V8s, but they did have some valve covers and it seems to
> me they maybe had one or two cams....in any case, prices aren't in the
> catalogue itself but you can bet they're sky high.

Prolly, but the quality should be better too (factory teams are still racing
the Quad in SCCA stuff and kicking a*s too...)

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: DGMCEWEN@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 02:10:43 -0300
Subject: Re: quad 4 

The place you want to try is called Mantapart, located in New Springfield,
OH. Ph # is 216-549-3188. They have been building a TON of parts for Q4's for
the past 10 years. They sent me a pretty comprehensive catalog, but the
prices will make you cringe. 340hp is only a checkbook away. Doug, W41SCX  

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 11:28:49 -0300
Subject: WTB:  1968 442, 4 speed

Friend looking for a '68 442, 4 speed - in real
good condition - any out there?

------------------------------

From: Ken <rottin@en.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 11:19:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Traction help...was Re: My next driveway cover???

Lloyd Culp wrote:
> >Our race car (1969 Pontiac Judge) was running in pure stock class NHRA and we used air bags to control a 4-speed posi.  It worked great.  
The
> bags fit right in the coil springs.  We just experimented at the track
> before time trials & were ready to go when racing began for the day.  We
> could even adjust easily for either lane or changes in track conditions
> as the day wore on.

 Any of you guy heard about/use the "No Hop Bars" from Lakewood?
They bolt to the rearend housing where the upper control arm normally 
would, then the upper control arm bolts to them.  This shifts the 
mounting point of the upper control arm about 3 inches upwards.  I 
bought a set thinking that it would be nice to have no wheel hop without 
the bulky ladder bars hanging underneath the car. Anyways it's a little 
late now seeing as I already bought them, but are these things any good?
Will they cause undue wear on the forward diff. seal because of the 
angle change, or will I be ok using them on the street?

Thanks,
Ken
Cleveland, Oh
1967 442 Convertible (hop along)

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 13:49:51 -0300
Subject: Re: An Olds owner once again

>1.  The parking brake seems to be unusually stiff.  What lubricant is 
>reccommended?


As I work as a Engineer for the world's largest cable manufacturer, I can 
answer this with some authority (for once). There is not a real easy 
answer for this but using pure silicone would be your best bet. I would 
try running a mild lubricant such as WD-40 through the cable till it runs 
clear, then I would use some compressed air to blow the risidual 
lubricant off the cable and then I would let it sit and drain for a 
couple of days. Then take the silicone and working the cable back and 
forth, feed the silicone in one end till it starts coming out of the 
other end.

The only danger here is that I don't know the material make up of the 
liner material of the conduit. Today, almost all automotive cables use 
PTFE (teflon) for the liner material. A small number of some PTFE 
formulations will react with Silicone, thus "eating it".

Good Luck,
Mike


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: ne1469@ix.netcom.com (Karl Davlin )
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 12:57:17 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile



------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 12:47:32 -0300
Subject: Re: WTB:  1968 442, 4 speed

At 11:28 AM 7/21/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Friend looking for a '68 442, 4 speed - in real
>good condition - any out there?
>
Check Hemmings, they always have lots of cars for sale in there. 
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 12:46:42 -0300
Subject: 70 350 engine knock

At 11:50 PM 7/20/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Octane deficiency. If you had a 71 that probably wouldn't happen.
>
Uhhh...not necessarily.  My stock 69 350 (10.25:1 compression) runs fine,
with no pinging, on high (92 or 93) octane fuel.  

There are a several things which can contribute to pinging, among them are
carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, timing, overheating, and high
compression.  

Octane deficiency _could_ be the problem, but don't rule out everything else
without checking!!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 14:54:08 -0300
Subject: Re: quad 4 

I bought the Oldsmobile gauges, which are Autometer gauges with 
the Olds logo and script.  The cost was 368.00 for  the fuel, oil pressure
and water temp gauges.  I also use to own a 1990 Quad 442 but just
traded it in for a 1994 Suburban to pull my W-30 on a trailer.



W Machines
72 442 W-30 race rocket
former owner 90 Quad 442
1994 Ch*vy Suburban

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 14:56:44 -0300
Subject: RE: 70 350 engine knock 

Does anyone know anything about a lean burn causing the engin to run hot and
contribut to engin  knock?. 70 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 15:11:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 350 engin nock 

At 02:36 PM 7/20/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 70 rocket 350 four barrel in my Cutlass Supreme. The engin does not
>burn any oil and runs excellent except it pings durring casual driving. I have
>reduced the timeing to eight degrees and run premium fuel plus octain buster
>but the ping still shows up. The car runs very clean and no blask smoke come
>from the tail pips. Can any one provide some info on what could be causing this
>. thanks 

If it pings during light throttle or cruising, you have too much vacuum
advance. If it pings during acceleration from a stop, you have too much
initial advance. If it pings at high rpm, you have too much centrifugal
advance. Or any combination of the above.

You can buy an adjustable vacuum advance unit from Crane, which can modify
the rate and amount of vacuum advance, as well as the rate (but not the
amount) of centrifugal advance.

I have the same problem on my '69 455 (10.25:1 nominal comp. ratio); at the
factory setting of 8 deg. initial advance, it doesn't ping on moderate or
heavy acceleration, but does on light acceleration. I've reduced the initial
timing to 6 deg. to avoid pinging. With the adjustable vacuum canister, I
can adjust the rate and amount of vacuum advance, so I can return to the
factory 8 deg. (or more).

BTW, I run 93 octane with no booster, no problem. The 93 should be enough,
even with a 10:1 motor (which probably is actually a 9.3:1).

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 17:25:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 350 engine knock

It sounded to me like he had already done most of the things to provent pinging. 
I never experienced pinging on 8.5 compression engines that I have on the 10+.

Art Fuller 

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 19:35:48 -0300
Subject: Re: WTB:  1968 442, 4 speed

At 11:28 AM 7/21/96 -0300, Linda Zuccaro wrote:
>Friend looking for a '68 442, 4 speed - in real
>good condition - any out there?
>
I am looking inSunday's Akron Beacon Journal and see a 68 442, 433cu. in.,
tri-power, 12 bolt, 3.91 rear, muncie 4 speed, original paint, much more
$10,000.

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power  
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power     
HOCA member #0278A...in need of 75 H/O and 442 parts!

------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 19:58:04 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 vs 425

> I agree that the 400/425 block is the quicker quarter-mile performer . To my
> knowledge, the quickest  factory Olds was the 66 W-30. But I must disagree
> with the statement that the 425 wasn't available in the 442 as the early 65's
> had them from the factory before the 400 became available.

I couldn't resist this one. From where/whom did this information come from?


Boyd Parker (aka Rocketeer)                
                                                         
1966 4-speed Cutlass Convertible (425 powered)         
ride a rocket ! 1970 4-4-2 Convertible                       
                                          
                                         
                                           

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 16:01:50 -0300
Subject: Re: An Olds owner once again

Mike Hall wrote:
> 
> >1.  The parking brake seems to be unusually stiff.  What lubricant is
> >reccommended?
> 
> As I work as a Engineer for the world's largest cable manufacturer, I can
> answer this with some authority (for once). There is not a real easy
> answer for this but using pure silicone would be your best bet. 
> 
> Good Luck,
> Mike
> 
> 
> Michael R. Hall                                  
>
> Mike:

It is always nice to hear trained/experienced advice like this.  That & 
Sparky are the only reason that I put up w/800 messages/day.  I'll file 
this message away too. 
- -- 
SLTG

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 21:41:45 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 vs 425

Boyd,
I don't understand, are you also saying a 425 came in early 65 442's? I've never 
heard this before.  I bought a 65 442 new in Ohio around September of '64. GM 
was on strike and this was, at that time, the only one around that part of the 
country . It had a 400 engine.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: PMRjr@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:15:45 -0300
Subject: any suggest for stripping all old paint on the top only 

Hello everyone, 
I have 1967 Cutlass Supreme Sport Coupe, I am planning to strip all old paint
on the top only ( hood, top, and trunk hood) due to damage by hail storm.  I
am thinking about using the machine that can use sandpaper to remove all
paints but I know that would take it for long time.  I would like to hear
what can you suggest me that I can do is stripping old paint by something
like chemicals, or special machine that I can rent. 
I would like to leave both sides of paints because of good conditions and my
body shop can paint to match the color (Blue) so I decide to strip on the
tops only before go to the body shop for save my money to pay.  I hope that I
will hear from all of you soon    Thanks PMRJr. 

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:17:43 -0300
Subject: RE: 455 vs 425

I don't know if I agree with that statement. My experiences have been =
mostly with 455 and not 425 and I feel because the OLDS is so limited in =
its cylinder head breathing that having a higher reving 425 vs more =
displacement 455 the 455 would be a better choice simply because the =
heads would limit the rpm. I've seen 455 turn 7200rpm, how much more can =
the 425 turn with the same head?

- ----------
From: 	Rocketeer[SMTP:bparker@nmsu.edu]
Sent: 	Sunday, July 21, 1996 6:58 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Cc: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: 455 vs 425


> I agree that the 400/425 block is the quicker quarter-mile performer . =
To my
> knowledge, the quickest  factory Olds was the 66 W-30. But I must =
disagree
> with the statement that the 425 wasn't available in the 442 as the =
early 65's
> had them from the factory before the 400 became available.

I couldn't resist this one. From where/whom did this information come =
from?


Boyd Parker (aka Rocketeer)               =20
                                                        =20
1966 4-speed Cutlass Convertible (425 powered)        =20
ride a rocket ! 1970 4-4-2 Convertible                      =20
                                         =20
                                        =20
                                          =20

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:13:52 -0300
Subject: RE: 490 cid small block

Hey thats an interesting idea, what sort of rod length would you be =
looking at? I've thought about a lot of odd ball combinations over the =
years  and usually the end up being very expensive once you plan the =
entire build out. This is one I've not considered and must give some =
thought.

- ----------
From: 	Shawn Twomey[SMTP:stwom@ctp.com]
Sent: 	Saturday, July 20, 1996 11:05 PM
To: 	'olds list'
Subject: 	490 cid small block

>Well, my dream is to drop a cut-down 425 crank into a solid-main 403 =
block,
>get 490ci with stock bore, and drop it in an '83 H/O. I'd like a =
7000rpm
>*small-block* Olds, with 1hp/ci, putting out about 500hp but looking =
like a
>180hp 307...

Goodness.  And I was worried that people might think dropping a 350 in
my '84 would be blasphemous.  Only thing here...you have to make it as
docile and "gentlemanly" as the stock motor.  Its just a rule.

Shawn

- -----------------=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- -----------------=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
                               =20

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:45:53 -0300
Subject: Wanted: Fender 

Wanted: Right front fender for 67 Cutlass. Got to be a good one somewhere!

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 23:35:21 -0300
Subject: Weekend Project: Engine Rebuild Notes 

I finally got a chance to button up the 403 this weekend, since the +.100"
pushrods came in from Summit. A couple of things I thought I'd share with
the group...

1) Harmonic Balancer Installer- You can't buy one, for an Olds at least.
Maybe Mondello will sell you one, but why when you can make your own for
about $5? All you need is about 8" of 3/4-16 threaded rod, a nut to match,
and a washer larger than 3/4" (7/8" is good). After striking out at my local
PepBoysAutoPalaceActionAuto, I went to the old hardware store in town to see
what they could do. Turns out they had about three-dozen 5' lengths of the
right thread rod that had been sitting around for years (I guess not much
call for that kind of thing...), along with the washer and nut. I picked up
a 3' section of rod, cut it down, and now have a nifty Olds-specific
harmonic balancer installer that works beautifully. I also have enough
threaded rod left over for about 3 more of these tools, if anyone needs one.

the next topic is a bit more disturbing...

2) LIFTER PRELOAD!!!! Armed with a couple packs of shims and my +.100"
pushrods, I prepared to get the proper .030"-.050" preload by measuring
.030"-.045 under the rocker pedestal as Mondello specified. As I adjusted
the first one according to these specs, I saw that the lifter looked like it
was getting depressed by more than .040". Check with the dial gauge, and
sure enough, the .045 clearance I was leaving was giving me .080" of preload!

I found that .028" of clearance between the pedestal and the head would
yield .040" of preload, and went from there. My question is: Where did
Mondello get that spec for adjusting the lifter preload? Maybe I'm just
unable to understand what he means in his section on setting preload. Any
insights into this?

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 00:17:25 -0300
Subject: NAPA Part #'s 

On the NAPA part numbers to convert from Metric to 3/8" flare on the steering
boxes:

I have to find them, and I will send them right out to you!

Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #243
********************************

