To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/10/96 06:39:16 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #262


oldsmobile-digest         Saturday, 10 August 1996      Volume 01 : Number 262


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:57:54 -0300
Subject: Re: something I noticed at the newstand 

We should count our blessings they didn't use a C*maro!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- -----------
Some idiot put in a picture of the
wrong year Toro.  The caption read '66 Toronado but the picture was of a
68-69.  I'm not knocking the '69 Toronados, I think they're some kick-ass
cars, but you'd think somebody would have spotted it before the mag got into
print.  Kind of upsetting, isn't it? 

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:54:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction 

At 10:56 AM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Now, on a Fiat spyder, this isn't such a bad job.  Anybody have any tales
>to tell of doing ball joints on this type of car?  And has anybody ever
>tried to use one of these "ball joint removers" that some rental places 
>offer to remove pressed-in ball joints with the control arms still on 
>the car?
>Dave Morton

I haven't done ball joints on a Toro, but I did do them on my Cutlass.  I
don't know how similar they are, though.  I didn't have to remove the
control arms.  The only special tool I needed was a ball joint separator, to
break the spindle off the ball joints.  The lower ball joint is pressed in
and I just pounded it out with a 2 lb. hammer.  I had to use a cold chisel
on the rivets which held the upper ball joints on.  The lower ones just
press back into the holes, the upper ones should come with nuts & bolts to
hold them in (instead of rivets).  It wasn't a real hard job; took about a
half a day to do all four.  That was on a Cutlass, though...don't know 'bout
them Toro's...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:41:08 -0300
Subject: FW: Resto parts. -Reply

Geeze, I'm glad I asked before I ordered anything...  Sounds like they're
just a bunch of junk-dealin' A-holes. People like that shouldn't be in
business.   We should all wipe our a**'s on our catalogs and send 'em
back to them.

>>> Frank Boerger <103454.317@compuserve.com> 08/07/96 07:37am
>>>
I ordered an drivers side outer wheelhouse from them 6 weeks ago...the
charge is
on my credit card...no wheelhouse...we are going to war  !!  Mike the
counter
guy and I are on a first name, last time basis.

Frank Boerger
'68 Cutlass convertible

------------------------------

From: <clint@boto.netherworld.org>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:53:46 -0300
Subject: RE: Movies & cars

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996, AUVAX7::RILES wrote:

> Along this same thread, my neighbor owns the GTO Judge (sorry Olds lovers)
> that was used in the movie "Dazed and Confused", a highschool flick filmed
> in Austin, Tx. a couple of years ago.  BTW, it is for sale.

Woo!!!!  I loved that car!!!  Wish I could afford it...

Clint

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:54:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

At 11:48 AM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Dave,
>
>I haven't had the "opportunity" to replace the ball joints on my 1966
>Toronado.  But the 1966 Service Manual has good detail of what needs to be
>done.  Do you have a copy of the Service Manual.  If not, would you like
>me to send or fax copies of the appropriate pages?>
>
>Paul Bartlett, email bartletp@osshe.edu

Ehhh, I don't have a Toro.  Someone else was asking what kind of job it was
to replace the ball joints as compared to a Fiat(???!).  I was only relaying
my experience with ball joint replacement in my Cutlass, not knowing how
similar (or dissimilar) it is to replacing them in a Toro.  Sorry for the
confusion...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:57:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

At 11:48 AM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Dave,
>
>I haven't had the "opportunity" to replace the ball joints 
>Paul Bartlett, email bartletp@osshe.edu

Ehhh, I don't have a Toro.  Someone else was asking.....

Oops...wrong Dave.  Now that we have two, I'm going to get confused...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Graham Stewart <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:01:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Movies

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:39:28 -0400 Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:

> It must be "The Dark Half".  I rented "Needful Things" last night.  That
> wasn't it... still a great show, though!
> 
> - Blaine
> '72 Cutlass Supreme
 
Yup, Blaine it is The Dark Half (1993), I'm about 98% sure.  The evil guy 
roars 
around in a great looking black 66 Toro.  Took awhile to remember, Stephen 
King 
threw me off, but that's because it was directed by George A. Romero, a more 
memorable figure in my opinion.  Check out Dawn of the Dead ... no 
Oldsmobiles, 
but lots of zombies.  
I sent a message about this earlier today which must have disappeared into the 
abyss:
Other movies with prominant Olds:
- -Black Sunday (1977): the terrorist woman who helps Bruce Dern drives a 
light blue 
69 Delta 88.
- -Sorcerer (1975): Very prominant yellow 73 (?) 98 in early street shot 
(later 4 guys 
get crushed in a blue Chrysler something)
- -X (1993): Malcolm X drive a 63-64 (?) 98 around the streets of Washington.  
Did 
Spike Lee choose that car because of the Public Enemy song ... ?
Maybe there's a database in the making here.

Sorry: all a wee bit off topic.

graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:02:34 -0300
Subject: brakes

Did you replace the hard lines or the rubber ones??
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:05:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Toros etc. in movies

At 05:07 PM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:

>I used to rent late sixties/early seventies movies to see the cars:

I like to watch old TV shows just for glimpses of old familiar cars.  Old
police shows are pretty good for that.

>Maybe we have the beginnings of a database here ... 

Maybe so!

>Graham Stewart

- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:06:17 -0300
Subject: Re: BMW

At 01:38 PM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:
>ANYONE KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A PORCUPINE AND A BMW?
>
>
>THE PORCUPINE HAS PRICKS ON THE OUTSIDE!!
>
Yeah, that was posted to the list a couple days ago.  
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: "David Morton" <dmorton@rci.rutgers.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:09:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Fiats?!? (WAS Re: Introduction)

Ah, my friend (maybe not for long, though) who bought the Fiat would 
love to have the spares, etc.  Just let me know how much you want 
for shipping. . .

As for the ball joints, isn't it true that the Olds ball joints are 
pressed into the a-arm?  That's why I asked-- because the Fiat balljoints
are just riveted/bolted, so "special tools" aren't needed to get them 
out.  

Thus, I'm assuming that I need to take the whole a-arm out of the car
and use a press, so I'm wondering how hard it is to get the a-arm in 
and out -- given the funky suspension and drivetrain set-up.

Any thoughts?  

Dave

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:12:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Resto  Tips  .....

At 03:07 PM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:

>When removing your old headliner, pick one side (driver or passenger)
>and front or back.  Label / number your headliner bows and install them
>the same way as you removed them.  it will make the headliner job alot 
>easier, as well as hang correctly!!!

>--joe ferrero

Make sure you put the bows back in the same holes they came out of.  Usually
there are three holes you can put the end of the bow in.  Mark the correct
hole before you remove the bows.  Cut the old headliner off the bows (if it
hasn't already fallen off!) with a knife.  Make sure you put the bows back
in the same order from front to back that they came out!  Little paper tags
attached to strings work good for marking the bows.  Good Luck!!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:19:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing - Engine In

I've detailed my engine compartment over the last couple of years. The 
engine has never been out, though most everything else has...

To start with, get everything as clean as possible before you even think 
about painting anything. This is grunt work, messy and unpleasant, but it 
has to be done. you can take several routes including steam cleaning 
which I *didn't* do. I used various solvents and cleaners includding Gunk 
Engine cleaner, Simple Green (a wonderful degreaser), and regular mineral 
spirits (note: do *not* use lacquer thinner for this!). Plenty of water 
and you're then ready to start doing more detailed cleaning. 

I used a 3M cleaning pad (not a soap pad but a plasticky thing) with
spirits to work over the spots that wouldn't come off otherwise. Lots of
solvent is needed. I removed everything that could be removed to sand off
surface rust: air cleaner, battery tray, top of rad support, alternator
and brackets, even the valve covers (get new gaskets while you're at it).
The stuff that couldn't be removed I sanded in place the best I could. 

I used various paints: engine gold (correct for a 350), semi-black ( a 
couple of different kinds, I don't know which is "correct"), spray cast 
gray, Krylon Rust Gloss Black. The booster and other cad-plated parts 
like the alternator fan can be duplicated fairly closely if you use your 
imagination. I cleaned the surface rust with fine sandpaper, then sprayed 
them silver. Then I just very lightly misted them with some gold and 
green spray that I had and presto! a reasonable facsimilie of cad. It's 
not as shiny as the real thing but I like it. If you want to really get 
it nice you'll need to take out the rad, take off the fan and pulleys, 
and get at the front cover area. It's hard to get at with everything in 
place. I'm going to do the firewall next week and it shouldn't be too bad.

My engine room didn't have a whole lot of goop in it. If the fender wells 
have had rustproofing sprayed on them you'll need to get it off and I 
can't tell you the best way to do that without damaging the plastic. 
Right now I'm slowly going through it cleaning and polishing the corroded 
parts - trans cooler lines, PS hose fittings, that sort of thing. The 2 
biggest improvements were the air cleaner lid (with new decal) and the 
rad support. Everything else is just gravy... and it *can* be done! 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:18:45 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Legislation 

IT IS VERY, VERY REAL!!  Just pick up any Hemmings, turn to the letters in 
the back and read the monthly Stella letter and letters from others.  The 
CARB, EPA, pollution credit (crushed cars) buying industries just want us 
to beleive that they are looking out for our best interest.  It's better to 
present opposition when proposal meetings are taking place than after a law 
is enacted.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- ---------------
I've been reading this thread for some time now, and I think it's just an
urban legend of sorts. I always read in various automotive newsgroups about
how one state or another is going to destroy all cars four years and older.
The story changes, different states and different details are used each
time.

I don't think we have anything to worry about it, if it ever came down to
it, the classic/lowrider/custom/hot rod/enthusiast community could come
together and present much opposition to any regulations. Well, that's just
my opinion. Take it easy...
Nick

      ------------------------------------------------------------------
      1965 Oldsmobile 98          TIP # 1048         Trade Live Concerts
      Dallas, Texas             MiSTie # 53344        Collect Hot Wheels
      ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: PMRjr@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:14:01 -0300
Subject: Toronado Question: Standard vs Deluxe?  

Since I am still looking for 1966-1967 toronados.  I found several 1966
Toronados they are standard, deluxe, standard and deluxe then I can not
decide which one I want.. because I like both based on the condition of
unrestored cars.  I was told that Today's 1966 Toronado" standard" is rare
right now because they produced less than 5000 Standard Toronados  in 1965
which was small number than Deluxe's. I am not sure it's correct, I wonder if
you could help the information about standard and deluxe before I decide to
buy.  
Thanks PMRjr.

1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Future owner of 1966-67 Toronado

------------------------------

From: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:13:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing - Engine In

Craig Dobbins wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
>   Does anyone out there have any experience doing a full detail job under the
> hood with the engine still in? 

I've done it both ways and believe me it is easier with it out and I'm 
sure your going to get a lot of mail telling you that. For the stuff to 
use try The Eastwood Company in Penn., call them at (800)345-1178 for a 
free catalog, Good Luck!

Chris M.
"68 442"
cya442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: Chris and Robin <cya442@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:13:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing - Engine In

Craig Dobbins wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
>   Does anyone out there have any experience doing a full detail job under the
> hood with the engine still in? 

I've done it both ways and believe me it is easier with it out and I'm 
sure your going to get a lot of mail telling you that. For the stuff to 
use try The Eastwood Company in Penn., call them at (800)345-1178 for a 
free catalog, Good Luck!

Chris M.
"68 442"
cya442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Bartlett <bartletp@osshe.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:55:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Toronado Question: Standard vs Deluxe?

I have never seen the "Standard" Toronado.  I see in the service manual
that the interior of the  "standard" Toronado has different door panels. 
Never having seen the "Standard" Toronado, I expect they must be pretty
rare.

Paul
i> 
> Since I am still looking for 1966-1967 toronados.  I found several 1966
> Toronados they are standard, deluxe, standard and deluxe then I can not
> decide which one I want.. because I like both based on the condition of
> unrestored cars.  I was told that Today's 1966 Toronado" standard" is rare
> right now because they produced less than 5000 Standard Toronados  in 1965
> which was small number than Deluxe's. I am not sure it's correct, I wonder if
> you could help the information about standard and deluxe before I decide to
> buy.  
> Thanks PMRjr.
> 
> 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> Future owner of 1966-67 Toronado
> 
> 


- -- 
Paul Bartlett
Phone (503) 737-0510
E-mail bartletp@osshe.edu

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 20:52:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

At 05:57 PM 8/9/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Oops...wrong Dave.  Now that we have two, I'm going to get confused...
>--
>Dave Paulison  

Or maybe we have four...I can't count..;)
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:55:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Unusual Tabs on 72 Cutlass Convertible

brett@actel.com wrote:
> 
> 
>      I have a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible with some strange plastic tabs
>      mounted on the rear seat and the rear trim panels.  They run along the
>      bottom front of the rear seating area.  They are retainers that work
>      similar to the retainers that hold shoulder harnesses above the door
>      on non-convertibles of this era.  
> 
>      What are these for?  Any suggestions?


I wonder if someone once fitted a cover ala T'Bird Sports Roadster for 
your car.  Let's see what everyone else guesses.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:00:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing - Engine In

Chris and Robin wrote:
> 
> C
> >
> > Hello everyone,
> >   Does anyone out there have any experience doing a full detail job under 
the
> > hood with the engine still in?
> 
> I've done it both ways and believe me it is easier with it out and I'm
> sure your going to get a lot of mail telling you that. For the stuff to
> use try The Eastwood Company in Penn., call them at (800)345-1178 for a
> free catalog, Good Luck!
> 
> Chris M.
> Chris is 100% right on everything he said including Eastwood.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:39:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing - Engine In

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996, Lloyd Culp wrote:
> > use try The Eastwood Company in Penn., call them at (800)345-1178 for a
> > free catalog, Good Luck!
> > 
> > Chris M.
> > Chris is 100% right on everything he said including Eastwood.

I advise caution when dealing with Eastwood spray paints. I have had 
nothing but bad experiences with them. They are very unforgiving as to 
surface prep and tend to curdle if you spray a second coat. For my money, 
the Krylon and Plasti-Kote products are far superior. Just my $0.02...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Daryl Moore <dmoore@smartt.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:33:49 -0300
Subject: Signal light switch

I have a 1991 oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and I have been having problems 
with the signal light switch.

I have replace the switch three times to no avail.  Does anyone know 
where the problem may be.  I think there is a short somewhere in the 
system.  Any help that any one can give me would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Daryl

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 01:52:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Signal light switch

Daryl Moore wrote:
> 
> I have a 1991 oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and I have been having 
> problems with the signal light switch.
> 
> I have replace the switch three times to no avail.  Does anyone know
> where the problem may be.  

Not yet.  Your information is a little thin, Daryl.  How about a 
description of what it's doing and/or what it's not doing.

> I think there is a short somewhere in the system.  

Shorts generally blow fuses.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: SCOT SWANSON <SCOT442@cris.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 00:17:17 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass brakes 

At 05:16 PM 8/8/96 -0300, you wrote:
>I need a proportioning valve for my 69 Cutlass.  Or maybe it's just a
>junction block.  It mounts on the frame below where the master
>cylinder/vacuum booster is located.  The two lines from the master cylinder
>go into it, and four lines come out, two for the front drums, and two for
>the rear drums.  This is the last piece left on the brakes that I haven't
>replaced/checked recently, so I am assuming it is the reason for the hard
>pedal I have (haven't fixed it yet!).  Anybody have one, or some Good Ideas
>as to what might be causing the hard pedal? Everything seems to function
>correctly, except I have to stand on the brake pedal to stop the car.  It's
>not much fun to drive in that condition.  Thanks!
>--
>Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
>dpauliso@metrolink.net
>
Dave,

I can only offer this second hand.  My friend had a 70 Cutlass that had
brakes that worked fine IF he used both legs!  They were tight.  He too
looked into everything that had to do with the brakes.  He finally took it
to a older brake shop and they fixed the problem by connecting the master
cylinder rod to the OTHER hole on the brake pedal.  They explained that at
some point he had taken away some of the pedal's  mechanical advantage.  We
guess that may have happened during one of his troubleshooting efforts.

for what its worth

Scot Swanson   Real cars:  68 Cutlass, 442, convertabile, 
               Sub entities: 82 Eldo, 74 F@%) P.O.S.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 00:31:55 -0300
Subject: Need Help! adjusting APT valve on '78 QJet 

When I pulled the QJet carb on my rebuilt 403 to rebuild *it*, I got it
apart, straightened out some screwed-up-ness about it, and proceeded to
screw it up a bit more...

See, behind the Power Valve is an Adjustable Part Throttle (APT) power valve
that is factory set for each car. Of course, the Shop Manual says this, and
that you *should not touch* that screw (which I already did :(

So, I need to know a couple things about this adjustment:

1) Where is a good baseline to begin?
2) Does turning the screw up richen the mixture? or down?
3) What is the best way to tune in the APT power valve?

I tried HP's Rochester Carburetors, but thought I'd ask here in case someone
had any experience on this.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 00:31:52 -0300
Subject: Re: I Made It Back! 

At 03:36 PM 8/7/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>After an involuntary 2 week sabbatical from the Olds group (due to a Sun
>crash, which brought the rest of the "House o' Cards" network down,
>flummoxing the mail server -- best known by a guy who just left on his
>Honeymoon, natch -- which just got straightened out by the other systems
>folks), I just wanted say how happy I am to be able to read all the posts
>to my favorite (not to mention only) electronic newsletter.  They've been
[snip]
>Tim Churchill
>-------------
>'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
>'88 Cadillac Brougham, a.k.a. 'Big Blue' -- Olds 307 Powered!!
>'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

Welcome back, Tim! BTW, were you on the Cape last week with "Big Red"? On
vacation with my '69 Toronado in Dennisport, I pulled up to a light next to
a '67 convert driven by a blonde-headed person; was that yours?

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: sbay@dowco.com (Susan Bay)
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 00:49:14 -0300
Subject: Bye Bye

unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 05:09:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Hey Toro-heads!

>(Now that I know what they look like, I remember
>seeing one in a movie several years ago.  It was all black with really dark
>tinted windows.  It was like a demon car or something.  What's the name
>of that movie?)


The name of the movie was, "The Dark Half". In typical fashion, the book 
was light years ahead of the movie in terms of quality. The car was a 
black Toronado with a bumper sticker which read "HIGH-TONED SON OF A 
BITCH". A chilling story written by Stephen King. As a collector of 
Stephen King books, not his best, not his worst... The Stand, another 
book by King is argueably his best book and one of the best tales of good 
versus evil ever written.


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 10:43:20 -0300
Subject: FW: FW:First year of Olds 350...

>I thought that Corvette had a 350/350 in '65.

>steve
>'70 Cutlass
At 05:48 PM 8/8/96 -0300, you wrote:
>> when GM did introduce the 350. I seem to remember 68 as being the
>year...anybody else recall?
>
>Yes, '68 was the first year.
>
>Frank Boerger
>'68 Cutlass convertible/'68 coupe-for-parts
>
>
No, 'Vettes has 327/350's thru '68.  my brother's '69 convertible vette had the
first year of the 350/350.

Frank Boerger

------------------------------

From: Gary Bowles <bodog@napanet.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 17:46:38 -0300
Subject: '70 Olds 442 W-30

I have the chance to buy an Olds 442 W-30 for about 6K.  I know these 
are high performance cars and are relatively rare.  But I know little 
more than that.  Were they ever used for racing?  What made a W-30 a 
W-30?
The specific car I have found has a 455 with ram air, a QuadraJet carb, 
posi-traction, radical cam (stock), BENCH seats, AUTO-trans, 
air-conditioning and power windows to name a few options.  It 
desperately needs paint and has minor rust behind the wheels in the 
quarter panels.
The sooner you could respond, the better, because I feel that this deal 
won't last.

Thanks!!!

Brad 

bodog@napanet.net

------------------------------

From: "Gary Bowles" <bodog@napanet.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 18:43:04 -0300
Subject: Fw: '70 Olds 442 W-30

- ----------
> From: Gary Bowles <bodog@napanet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> Subject: '70 Olds 442 W-30
> Date: Saturday, August 10, 1996 1:46 PM
> 
> I have the chance to buy an Olds 442 W-30 for about 6K.  I know these 
> are high performance cars and are relatively rare.  But I know little 
> more than that.  Were they ever used for racing?  What made a W-30 a 
> W-30?
> The specific car I have found has a 455 with ram air, a QuadraJet carb, 
> posi-traction, radical cam (stock), BENCH seats, AUTO-trans, 
> air-conditioning and power windows to name a few options.  It 
> desperately needs paint and has minor rust behind the wheels in the 
> quarter panels.
> The sooner you could respond, the better, because I feel that this deal 
> won't last.
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> Brad 
> 
> bodog@napanet.net

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #262
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