To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	09/13/96 03:58:20 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #299


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, 13 September 1996     Volume 01 : Number 299


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 21:48:40 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info. 

At 03:30 AM 9/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
>> Once GM allowed them to, Olds made the L33 2-bbl 455 an option on the
>> Cutlass line, up until Feb. of 1970 (so about six months). Then I believe
>> the 455 was an option on the '72 Cutlass line, apart from the 442 option
>> (which was no longer a separate model). So 1971 would be the only year that
>> the 455 was only available in the 442 or SX.
>> 
>> -----------
>> - Bob Barry
>
>Bob,
>
>Do you believe that would include the 4-speed on a 2-barrel 455?  I 
>should have qualified that as 1970 of course.  I'm sure that you have a 
>direct source.  I'm just curious about this type car.
>
>Bill Culp

I don't have the original sales catalogs at hand, but I am quite positively
sure that both the 4-speed manual *and* the 3-speed automatic were _options_
for the 455; the standard transmission you got if you didn't order one of
these was, of course, the 3-speed MANUAL transmission that GM teamed up with
its cars (apparently to be able to quote lower base prices; the only
possible reason for AM radios to be standard equipment on GM cars through
much of the '80's!).

Others have mentioned seeing some of these early 2-bbl 455 powered Cutlasses
at car shows; it was news to me, however, as I always had thought that the
SX was the only other way to get the 455 in the Cutlass lineup besides the 442.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: HWM442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:04:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info. 

PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM E-MAIL LIST. THANKS

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:16:36 -0300
Subject: Silicone Grease?

Hi all, 


Can anyone recommend or have experience with a silicone based grease/lubricant?

I need a lubricant that is unaffected by water (moisture/condensation) and 
won't destroy 
a fairly soft rubber piston for the healight actuator cans on 66 & 67 Toros. I 
was told 
that the factory used vasolene petroleum jelly off all things and that 
ordinary 
axle/bearing grease will dissolve the rubber over time.  

Someone mentioned to me a silicone lubricant that is used on spark plug caps 
to prevent 
moisture build up and reduce arcing. Is this true? Will this stuff work for my 
application?

TIA

Greg

- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:33:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert???

At 07:40 09/12/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello,
>  I was just wondering if anyone out there has heard of anyone, seen any ads, 
>or knows where there is a decent '68 442/Cutlass Convertable (even a '69 
>Convert) that is being parted out?  Please return a note if you do.
>
>                                                    Thank You,
>                                                      Craig Dobbins
>
Hey Craig!! Where have you been? Long time no hear. I need some '68 parts as
well for my car and the convertible top needs some help. Any extra parts
that you hear about, let me know.Ok? See ya...

Brad '68 CS convt

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:37:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Manual problem - In Sweden 

At 02:06 PM 9/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
[snip]
>But I start wonder why their is so little E-mailpost about diesel
>engine. In two week I=B4ve got 2300 letters but only 8 have handling
>about diesel.  Only you have answer to my letter.
>Have you a idea why ?

Anders,

As much as you love your Diesel, Americans hate them with a passion (I'll
qualify that in a moment).

The Olds Diesel 350, in its first version, was poorly engineered and broke
down regularly on consumers who never had a diesel before (hence the
nickname "die & sell"). Basically, they modified the gasoline-powered 350 to
run diesel, but didn't modify it *enough*. They revised it in 1981, but by
then the diesel's reputation was shot.

On the other hand, there is a loyal bunch of diesel owners here in the USA
who would never drive anything else. They are mostly Mercedes and VW Rabbit
(Golf) owners; having ridden in my uncle's 300D, I am convinced that the
first bunch is in a state of utter denial, trying to justify their purchase
of an expensive 4-door truck.

Most of us here on the list like the Olds 350 diesel motor, because the
strengthened block makes an excellent basis for a strong _gasoline_ motor
that does not have to pass emissions inspection in many places (where
diesels are exempt from testing). There is even a kit to turn your 125hp
diesel motor into a 300+hp motor, if 140mph is of interest to you... ;)


>>I have a 1979 repair manual which has all of the production motors=
 detailed
>>in it. I would be happy to help, but I can't give up the manual.
>>
>>
>>Katana 72                    It's NOT your fater's Oldsmobile    =
 Hastings,
>>MN, USA
>>
>>
>
>***************************
>* Anders Riisager         *=20
>* Lycke V=E4sterg=E5rd        *=20
>* S440 33  HARESTAD       *
>* Sweden                  *=20
>* a.riisager@lycke.lhc.se *
>***************************=20
>
>

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:37:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight 

At 12:38 PM 9/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm going to be pulling the engine out of the 442 again so I can finish
>detailing the engine compartment and engine. I need to buy an engine stand
>and wanted to know which one to buy. What's the ballpark weight of an Old's
>350, how bought the 455?

Get a 4-wheel unit; worth whatever extra it costs. Also buy an extra-heavy
duty unit, with say a 1500lb capacity. My 3-wheeler was always on the verge
of dumping the motor on the ground.

>I was also going to buy one of those intake manifold plates (bolts on where
>the carb sits) to use to pull the engine. Should I be concerned using one of
>these with an aluminum intake, would that be too much stess on it?

I was able to get by with some really heavy chain attached to the accessory
mounts on the opposite heads. If you put studs in the manifold *all* the way
into the threaded hole, you might not have a problem. Chain works just as
well, though, and is probably cheaper.

>Anyone got a cherry-picker I can borrow? ;)

Sure, what time you want to come by? (it's in CT, though; you can have it
for the week... :)

BTW, I posted this before, but will mention it again: You can get some
really good stands and cherry-pickers from those wholesale clubs (BJ's,
Sam's, Price Club, etc.). I got a couple of 4-wheel engine stands for
$49.95, and a 4000lb hoist for $200. They are made in China, but the Chinese
seem to have figured out stick welding and hydraulic pumps by now, since
these have served me well this summer pulling, moving and reinstalling my
engines.

One caveat. They may have figured out metal fabrication, but they haven't
mastered the ability of including all the nuts and bolts required to
assemble the unit. Be sure you can get to a hardware store between the time
you buy and assemble it, and the time you actually need to use it.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:37:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info 

At 02:59 PM 9/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, I just finished a 383 Che** motor that cost me about $12,000.00. It is
>very streetable, makes horsepower by increasing stroke and a little bore not
>by super or turbo charging. It has a roller cam, roller lifters, roller
>rocker arms, forged crank and other goodies easy and cheaper to get for that
>genre of engine.
>
>I would like to build a 455 mostly for street cruising, and operation in the
>lower RPM range. My budget for this motor is ~ $12,000.00. I want it to look

Wow, even Mondello could build you a motor on that budget. Really, a strong
street 455, putting out over 400 real hp, shouldn't cost you more than half
that; heck, you could get one of Mondello's stroker motors for that much
(which looks 100% stock).

>When I purchased the car, it had a 403 in it, the 4A block we were talking
>about previously, so I dont know if it could have come with a 455 originally?
>1968 Cutlass "S". My research so far indicates it probably came with a 350,
>but all the CA smog info I've found indicates that a 455 was an option for
>68. Probably the larger cars had a 455, not the Cutlass, but the CA smog
>books don't break 1968 down into models, just the year. (Is it possible to
>have ordered a 68 Cutlass with a 455 from the dealer or factory???) I need to
>prove to the smog guys that a 455 "COULD" have come in the car that year!

The '68 Hurst/Olds had the 390hp 455; just tell them your car had a
repaint... (no scoops or other identifying marks, really). Maybe just throw
on an H/O badge or sticker to keep them happy (or better yet, a H/O tune-up
sticker); like they'll _know_ there were no convertible H/O's...

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:45:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Fisher Body code: 

In a message dated 96-09-11 20:21:58 EDT, you write:

<< 82 05D 3BN37 M 760921
 26E  11L 11T
      AM6 CF5 C04 BX2
 
      NM4
   B1487 >>

82 means 1982
05D means the body was produced the 4th (D) week of May (05)
3BN37 means the car is an Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Coupe (a Royale Brougham
Coupe would be a Y37)
M means the car was produced at the Lansing MI plant
760921 is the body unit number
26E is the trim code for the interior.  Again, these factory codes don't
match the order book codes. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest that
the E means Dk. Blue. The 26 would designate the seat type and fabric type.
11L means the lower body color is #11 White
11T means this car is equipped with a #11 White vinyl top (order code A)
AM6 is the seat option code, in this case a Divided Front Bench Seat with
Dual Controls (maybe the 6 here crossed over the 6 in the trim code?)
CF5 is a roof option for the Electric Sliding Tempered Glass Astroroof
(Cool!)
C04 is a roof option for the Vinyl Padded Landau Roof Covering (in White as
above)
BX2 is the option code for Lower Body Side Moldings (an additional wide
chrome molding directly above the standard rocker panel moldings)
NM4 is unknown to me - this may be an option code for a standard feature or
emission system, etc.
B1487 - I have no idea

How close did I get.  I'm 100% sure about everything 'cept the trim code.

Paul

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:54:39 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Hood info.

Bob,
An older gentleman came to my house several years ago with his mother-in-law's 
70 Cutlass S, to ask me the value of the car. The car looked new both inside 
and 
out. While I was admiring the original, never out of the trunk, spare tire I 
noticed dual exhausts under the bumper. I went up front and raised the hood 
and 
there was a 455 with a 2 barrel carb. This was the original engine. It had a 
400 
on the back of the engine, but was definitely factory.
Of course, I told him the 23,000 mile car was worth $500 and offered to take 
it 
off his hands. Really, after talking to me I sold it for $9500 for him.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: John Chamberlain <sglassbr@isd.ingham.k12.mi.us>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:04:39 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile 442

I am looking for a photograph of a 70-72 442 in race trim, with the
front wheels in the air to use for an advertisement promoting quick real
estate sales. do you have anything you could send, or something similar,
perhaps?

						Thanks,
					    John Chamberlain

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:13:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine numbers

At 04:48 09/11/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>At 07:21 PM 9/10/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>Could someone please tell me where to look on the engine and tranny to find
>>the serial numbers so I can check them against the VIN number.Someone sent
>>the locations here once,but they did not seem to be where he said they
>>were.Also,how can you tell what style heads are on the motor? I.E. "F","A".
>>Not that I think my engine is very good or rare,but would just like to know.
>>TIA.....
>>
>>Brad (0-0||||0-0) Convertible
>
>For both things, you want to look at the front driver's-side corner of the
>engine. Down to the left of the #1 sparkplug will be a raised number
>(small-block) or letter (big-block) cast into the head. For your '68 350, it
>should be a "4".
>
>The block vin derivative would be on a machined pad on the side of the
>block, just below where that letter is cast into the head. I had trouble
>reading that on the 403 I recently pulled, when the motor was *out* of the
>car. Good luck reading it in the car...
>
>-----------
>- Bob Barry
>- 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
>- 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)
>
Bob,thanks for this info.I think I found the number on the head.It is a "5".
Does this mean anything to anyone? Haven't found the VIN number yet,but
still looking.....

Brad  '68 (0-0||||0-0)  Looks best at New Courier #9 font

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:23:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile ID Book 

In a message dated 96-09-11 23:04:49 EDT, you write:

> Pretty good.  Although, I think that Roger M. Borlase (post below) had the
>  color right: bamboo.  At least, it resembles bamboo more than any thing
I'd
>  call honey; but, there may not be much difference between the two.

Trust me.  That color info came right out of the Dealer Color and Trim Album.
 81 was Bamboo in the '72 book, but its Honey Beige in the '73.  New names
fool people into thinking that the color engineers are developing new colors.

Paul

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:24:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Die Cast Models 

In a message dated 96-09-12 08:02:31 EDT, you write:

<< I WAS TOLD BY THE COMPANY THAT THEY WOULD BE OUT Sept 1 and you can get
them at
 Toys R uS for $19.00 dont pay 30 or 40 dollars for them. All the models are
 prices at 19.00.... >>

date has been moved to November 1st. The company ERTLE is the maker, 
and yes go to Toys R Us

W Machines

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:24:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Autronic, uh Guidematic 

In a message dated 96-09-12 00:19:55 EDT, you write:

> Wow, it took them another entire year to engineer a _wheelcover_! There
must
>  have been about a dozen committees at work in order to produce *that*
>  wonder; probably made the situations in "Dilbert" look utterly rational...
>  

...and the result was a version of the 14" deluxe wheel disc, only in 15"
size...

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:24:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models 

In a message dated 96-09-12 11:39:42 EDT, you write:

> die cast model of
>  a 1970 442 convertible.  It is made by a company called Playing Mantis and

>  is part of their Johnny Lightning series.  This is also part of their Indy

> 500
>  Championship Collection...The olds looks pretty 
> realistic
>  except that mine is in lime green (Wow!) If anyone finds it 
> in
>  white, or any other colors, I'd be interested.  The cars cost me $4.96.
>  
>  The back of the package also lists that they made these for the 1974 Hurst
>  Olds and the 1977 Olds Delta 88.  I did not see these at the store though.
>  
>  Happy shopping
>  -Rick

You have a '70 that's green???  The '70 I have is yellow (not the right color
either).  The '74 I have is green.  What goes here???  Are you sure you have
the '70 and not the '74  And the '77 is black & bronze instead of black and
silver.  Keep looking for the other ones (or other colors).  I went to a lot
of Kay-Bee toy stores till I found all mine.  They also have a Muscle Car
series with a '69 442 (with a Hurst hood) that comes in many colors.  So far
Ive found red & yellow.  Then they have a Dragster Series or something like
that where they have a Custom Toronado ('70) that also comes in many colors.
 Ive found it in Copper & Maroon.  Happy Huntin'!  (Shhhhh, be wary, wary
qwuite...)

Paul

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:30:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Needing Mondello info

At 12:14 AM 9/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-09-12 17:49:32 EDT, you write:
>
>I'm sure someone else will come in and correct me if I'm wrong, but 
>AFAIK the '68 Hurst/Olds was the only way you could get a 455 in a 
>Cutlass that year.  Well, at least they *were* Cutlass's before being
>shipped to Hurst for customizing.
>      
>     
>If this is so, what did Hurst do to the Olds Cutlass in 68 to make it a H/O?
>Did they have a dual gate shifter that year?
- --------------------

The only way to get a 455 in an A-body in 1968 was with the Hurst/Olds.

The car started out as a 1968 442 and got the following list of goodies to
make it a Hurst/Olds:

- - 455 cubic inch engine (Toro engine rated at 390 HP & 500 ft lbs torque)
- - W-30 heads (D casting) for non-air cars, and just C heads for a/c cars
- - Special recurved distributor
- - Specially jetted Rochester Quadrajet
- - W-30 cold air induction system (under bumper scoops)
- - W-30 red plastic inner fender wells
- - 3.91 anti-spin rear axle
- - Modified TH400 transmission
- - Power front disc brakes
- - H.D. cooling
- - Peruvian Silver paint (Toro only color) with black stripes edged with white
  pinstripes, trunk lid was also solid black
- - H/O emblems
- - Hurst Dual Gate automatic shifter


Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:37:02 -0300
Subject: Re: 98/88 Door Fit 

In a message dated 96-09-12 12:59:46 EDT, you write:

> damn, does that mean a fender off of a 71 or 72 88 won't fit my 72 98?

They should - same from the cowl forward
  
>  what fenders _will_ fit on a '72 98? I need one bad, preferably with 
> cornering
>  lamps.

How 'bout a fender from another '72 Ninety Eight?  I've got cornering lamps
on the  meat wagon?  Why?  Keep from knocking over grave markers in the
dark??

 Paul
 

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:39:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442

ROB MALLAND wrote:
> 
> Hi, this is an unsolicited message about 1973 Cutlass and 442's.
> (I was so impatient for '73 stuff I had to write some for myself !!)
> 
> 
> I have no idea how many regular Cutlass,Cutlass"S", and "supreme's" they made
> for 1973.
> (DRKSOLE,did I do alright? let me know if you have more info.)
> 
> Please E-mail me back if any info is wrong/missing.
> Rob Malland
> Tacoma,WA.    '73-442
> 


Rob,

Nice job.  Those Oldsmobiles are a good set of cars.  I ordered a 1973 
Vista Cruiser w/455 4 barrel, 3.23 posi & everything else I could get.  
I had to later add the SSIII wheels, sport mirrors, & gauge package 
because they wouldn't sell them on a station wagon.  They were all 
available for a 4 door sedan.

The car was very slow, the engine surged at stoplights, & got around 8 
mpg. I experimented w/a '70 442 cam, Edlebrock maniford, B & M street 
shift kit, headers, 650 Holley, & recurved distributor.  The results 
were nice torque of the chirp tires from 1st to 2nd type & 14-15 mpg on 
the highway.

I didn't like the Holley & changed the original Quadrajet to Buick Stage 
1 specs to replace it.  I hated the headers coming loose, burning 
gaskets, & ruining solenoids & replace the headers w/stock exhaust.  The 
results were more reliability, same seat of the pants performance feel, 
& equal gas mileage.

My experiment was done on the car at 7,000 miles.  I drove it another 
123,000 very happy miles until 1987 when I bout a brand X.  That was a 
nice smooth powerful car w/a lot of fine memories.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:55:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models JL 500 

Well my friends, I happen to collect die-cast cars also.
the Indy 500 Pace cars you are talking about will be produced
in 6 different series.  The original colors were released first with
production of 44,000 cars.  The yellow 70 is series one, and the green 
is series two.  In series one the 74 is green and the 77 is brown. IN 
series two the 74 is blue and the 77 is white.  series 1-6 are limited to 
production of 22,000.  The Pace cars true colors were released at the 
Indy 500 back in May.  They have been tough to get because of the true 
colors.  I have one extra set with all 8 cars in original colors that I will
sell.  So JL will make a total of 7 different sets such as 1-6 series and 
the original colors.  JL also offers the Custom Toronodo with six series.
Each series the cars are painted a different color but details remain the
same.  Sometime next week, I will compile a list of all the Oldsmobile
diecasts
that I know of and there is alot to collect, just ask my wife.


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 and JL,Hot Wheels and Matchbox collector
plus plastic 

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:59:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight 

>Anyone got a cherry-picker I can borrow? ;)

     Uhh,  can I E-mail it to ya?  :)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:59:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Digital dash 

>     I have an Olds Cutless Supreme 1990.  I curently have 124,000 miles 
>     and in excelent condition.  I have one problem.  My digital dash went 
>     out at 100,000 miles.  Occasionally it will work but only 25% of the 
>     time.  Do you have any suggestions?
>     
>     Mike Nicodemus
>     502-868-3383
>
Pull 'er out and check all the connections at the plug-in between the
cluster and the dash.  My roommate's car did the same thing.  His ended up
being a loose terminal in that plug.  A thought, at least...

    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:54:45 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 cutlass signal lense (and info) needed 

Greg Pruett wrote:
> 
> I need to get an amber signal lense for the passenger front fender turn
> signal.  I lost mine due to a dumbass attack I had on Sunday.  I also
> managed to dent the hell out of the fender and put a dimple in the front
> bumper.  I was backing up and didn't see a 15 inch high stump left from a
> maple sapling that was on my right side.  Of course, I found it soon enough
> when I cut the wheel really hard to the left. 
> 
> If anyone has an extra turn signal lense or assembly they want to sell
> please e-mail me.
> 
> Thanks a bunch.
> 
> Greg Pruett
> `72 Vista-Cruiser

Greg,

Sorry to hear about your car.  I have no parts for a 1972, but I want 
you to know how badly I feel.  I have come so near to doing just this 
type of thing myself.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:02:20 -0300
Subject: Re: 98/88 Door Fit 

  
>>  what fenders _will_ fit on a '72 98? I need one bad, preferably with 
>> cornering
>>  lamps.
>
>How 'bout a fender from another '72 Ninety Eight?  I've got cornering lamps
>on the  meat wagon?  Why?  Keep from knocking over grave markers in the
>dark??

no, it's more like a beacon at night, when it comes on other cars had better
get the hell out of the way because 7,000 lbs. and 26 or so feet of Oldsmobile
is about to turn!


Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/index.html 
cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader, 1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973  
Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X, 1955 Cadillac Seville, 1969  
Cadillac DeVille Convertibles (2), 1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham
1961 Imperial Custom, 1973 Buick Riviera                                     

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 14:07:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Silicone Grease? 

>Someone mentioned to me a silicone lubricant that is used on spark plug
caps to prevent 
>moisture build up and reduce arcing. Is this true? Will this stuff work for 
my 
>application?
>
>TIA
>
>Greg
>

Yup.  It also makes it a lot easier to pull the boots off of the plugs.  I
bought a tube of grease along with a new set of wires a couple of weeks ago.
I think they stock it specifically for spark plug wires.  You can buy about
1/2 ounce for a buck and a half at  advanced auto.(if memory serves me,
less than $2 anyway)  Kinda steep but I figured I just needed enough to lube
sixteen boots so I didn't mind so much.  I didn't use half the tube.  
I don't know for sure if the silicon is safe for your application but I
can't really see how it could be any worse than vasoline.    

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 19:10:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Wiper problems

Mike Frederick wrote:
>=20
> Hey, Esko!
>=20
> What was that again about the wiper switch???
>=20
> The 66 Toro and Mike and Mike and Mike and Mike
>=20
> Is there an echo in here?
>=20
> --
> Michael R. Frederick, CEO         =20

Mike,

Esko. The name is Esco, not Echo.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:20:23 -0300
Subject: Re: 88 and 98 fits 

In a message dated 96-09-12 17:05:04 EDT, you write:

> Front Bumper:
>  >From 68-76: they share the same front bumper each year.  Before 68, there
>  are some difference based on model designation.
>  

I would be interested if you would elaborate on this particular area, never
knew there were any differences in front bumpers, 'cept in '67 'cause the
Delta 88s and Delta Customs had their parking lites between the headlites and
the Ninety Eights and Delmont 88's had their's down in the bumper.  Always
thought that was stupid to have two bumpers like that.  There was a car
around here about 5 years ago that was hit in the front end.  It was gold,
but the hood and driver's fender were lt. blue.  He had the Delta 88 headlite
with the parking lite in between, and had a Delmont 88 bumper with the
parking lites there too.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:20:32 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 cutlass signal lense (and info) needed  

In a message dated 96-09-12 19:32:41 EDT, you write:

> If anyone has an extra turn signal lense or assembly they want to sell
>  please e-mail me.
>  
>  Thanks a bunch.
>  
>  Greg Pruett
>  `72 Vista-Cruiser 
>  

I think I have an extra lens in the garage.  It's not amber tho.  It's clear,
the bulb is amber.  Why don't you think it can be re-attached to the
assembly?  Where are you?

Paul

------------------------------

From: DrkSole@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:22:50 -0300
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442 

>Subj:   1973 Olds Cutlass and 442
>Date:   96-09-12 14:54:36 EDT
>From:   storm442@hotmail.com (ROB MALLAND)
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Reply-to:       oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:     oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

>Hi, this is an unsolicited message about 1973 Cutlass and 442's.
>(I was so impatient for '73 stuff I had to write some for myself !!)

>    1973 offered the Cutlass,Cutlass "S"(sport), and Cutlass Supreme.
>Basic body styles only differed in the "Supreme" with it's rectangular
shaped
>1/4 panel windows and the Cutlass/Cutlass"S" with a triangle shaped 1/4
panel
>windows. The interior is slightly different for "Supreme" vs. the other two
>models.(door panel trim, emblems, ect.) 
 Also, the header panels and tailight lens on Cutlass/s and Supremes were 
 different, the Supreme having straigt plastic divider on the lens while
 the Cutlass/S had a rocket on the divider. The header panel on a Supreme
 Featured narrower grills, and a space between the headlights and the grill
 the Cutlass had a lower, wider grill, and no space. The 442-H/O used the 
 Cutlass panel, thought the grill was different. 

>Rear Axle (Factory):2.73   Anti-Spin availble on ALL axles
>                    3.08
>                    3.23    
>                    3.42
      3.73-5.00 Axles were offered as dealer installed. 
      3.42-5.00 were not offered w/HD cooling or AC

>A Hurst/Olds was offered in 1973 with a first ever color choice of
>Black/Gold_or_White/Gold.
>The code was W-45.
>The running gear was ONLY a 455 4bbl. with TH400. and posi (3.42 a/c or 3.23
>non a/c)
>Codes were: L-77 455/400/3.23 (non a/c)
>            L-75 455/400/3.08 (a/c)
>This H/O was basicly a 442 with the exception of the 1/4 panel windows which
>were "opera" style (kinda square-ish, and very small) with a H/O decal in
>them.
>The basic 442 hood had a fiberglass "bubble" of louvers riveted on the hood
>which put the louvers aprox. 1" above the rest of the hood. The area around
>the
>tail lights were "blacked out" and you got the rest of the usual H/O emblems
>around the car. Chrome tailpipes were cool. Of special interest was the new
>spring loaded hood emblem "H/O".
><<< 1,097 of these H/O cars were built in 1973 >>>
  Don't know if the hood ornament was spring loaded. The  442-H/O hood had 
  louvers in the metal, the bolt on plastic louvers were part of the CutlassS
  package. The H/O's came with a dual-gate shifter as well. The H/O could
also
  be ordered with a digital Hurst tach, which was not available on other 
  Cutlass/S, Supreme, or 442.


>Availble options (only "neat" ones listed here): color-keyed SIII(SSII still
>availble),, Sunroof, Wide-ratio 4-speed, SWIVEL-BUCKETS, Anti-Spin axle,
>color-keyed dual side sport mirrors, mini console, sports console.
  I don't think that a sunroof was offered. The 4-speed couldn't be had with
  the H/O, but it could be ordered with the 455 in the other models,
something
  Pontiac and Buick didn't do, and included a Hurst shifter, at least in442.
  Other options of interest are the Rally Pac, Superlift shocks,Clock, Cruise

  AC, block heater, remote trunk release, sport steering wheel, rear defrost,
  courtesy lights, the Salon Package on the Cutlass/S and wagons, bumber
Guards,
  thermometer, door edge guards, hood lock, tilt wheel, PS, PDB, and the  
  Supremes had regular buckets, instead of swivels.

>I have no idea how many regular Cutlass,Cutlass"S", and "supreme's" they
made
>for 1973.
>(DRKSOLE,did I do alright? let me know if you have more info.)
>Please E-mail me back if any info is wrong/missing.
>Rob Malland
>Tacoma,WA.    '73-442
>---------------------------------------------------------
>Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>---------------------------------------------------------
 All info I've listed is from the Assembly manual, hope it's accurate.
 BTW what engine/tranny does your 442 have?
 DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:39:44 -0300
Subject: FWD: FS: 1970 Cutlass Convertible

This car doesn't belong to me, but I saw it for sale and thought you all
might be interested. It's in Dallas. Take it easy...
Nick
- -----
>From: dwginther@aol.com (DWGINTHER)
>Subject: FS: 70' Cutlass Convertible

>Original 1970 Olds Cutlass convertible, rocket 350 V8, red exterior with
>white interior, bucket seats, console shifter, new tires, 95K miles, runs
>well
>$3800 OBO, contact Dean, 214-424-2858 or dwginther@aol.com
>Dean W. Ginther
>DWGinther@aol.com
>dg5444@etsuacad.etsu.edu

- ------------------------------------------------------------------
1965 Oldsmobile 98          TIP # 1048         Trade Live Concerts
Dallas, Texas             MiSTie # 53344        Collect Hot Wheels
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:37:06 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 cutlass signal lense (and info) needed  

> If anyone has an extra turn signal lense or assembly they want to sell
>  please e-mail me.
>  
>  Thanks a bunch.
>  
>  Greg Pruett
>  `72 Vista-Cruiser 
>  

Greg,  

You can have mine for free.  I only paid $5 for it several years ago.  It does 
not have the lense if I remember correctly.  However, I could be wrong.

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:40:44 -0300
Subject: '72 vin # 

Could some one please decode this tag from my firewall on my '72 cutlass 
cruiser? 

ST 72 33G36 R 01882 BDY
TR 929   A52 63 11 PNT
05D0184

Thanks.

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:38:00 -0300
Subject: Re2: Die Cast Models

In a message dated 96-09-12 11:39:42 EDT, you write:
> die cast model of
>  a 1970 442 convertible.  It is made by a company called Playing Mantis 
and
>  is part of their Johnny Lightning series.  This is also part of their 
Indy
>  except that mine is in lime green (Wow!) If anyone finds it
> in white, or any other colors, I'd be interested.  The cars cost me $4.96.
>  The back of the package also lists that they made these for the 1974 
Hurst
>  Olds and the 1977 Olds Delta 88.  I did not see these at the store 
though.
_______
>>silver.  Keep looking for the other ones (or other colors).  I went to a 
lot
>>of Kay-Bee toy stores till I found all mine.  They also have a Muscle Car
>>series with a '69 442 (with a Hurst hood) that comes in many colors.  So 
far
>>Ive found red & yellow.
___________
I have two of the Johnny Lightning Muscle Car U.S.A. series '69 442s.  I got 
them at a local discount store here called "Grandpas," which are all over 
the St. Louis Metropolitan area.  They were only $2.49 each.  They are 
actually a Hurst Olds, complete with hood scoop and whale tail fin on the 
trunk.  I have one in blue and one in green (they apparently don't have them 
with original colors of white and gold).  Each one comes complete with a 
collector coin that has a picture of the car, the car model, a limited 
edition number, and a series issue number.  They are 1:64 scale (Matchbox 
size).  The quality is pretty good.  On a scale of one to 10, I'd give it 
about a 7.  With the exception of slightly oversized wheel wells, it is a 
pretty neat item.  It even has a hood that opens.  Not bad for under 5 
bucks!  There is a number on the back of the package for questions, and a 
free issue of their newsletter.  It is 1-800-MANTIS-8.   I haven't called it 
though, and there is a T-shirt offer that you can write to for, that expired 
12/31/95.  It is Johnny Lightning Sportswear offer - P.O. Box 248, 
Cassopolis, MI 49031-0248.  I've had these for about a year.  I remembered 
them when I saw the above message.  Hope this helps for anyone looking for 
them.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:38:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert???

At 07:40 09/12/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello,
>  I was just wondering if anyone out there has heard of anyone, seen any 
ads,
>or knows where there is a decent '68 442/Cutlass Convertible (even a '69
>Convert) that is being parted out?  Please return a note if you do.
>
>                                                    Thank You,
>                                                      Craig Dobbins
>
Hey Craig!! Where have you been? Long time no hear. I need some '68 parts as
well for my car and the convertible top needs some help. Any extra parts
that you hear about, let me know.Ok? See ya...

Brad '68 CS convt
___________
Ditto!

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:58:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Anyone remember Auto World? (Was Re: Models of '67s??)

Yes Auto World is still around but it only deals in model cars, slot 
cars, etc.  I'm also into Aurora Slot cars.  

Anyway I went there 3 years ago as I have relatives in Scranton.  Oscar 
Koveleski(Good American Name, I an say that because I'm a Pollock too) 
sold out to a couple of his workers and that's all thats left.  I too 
have a few old catalogues too about '71.  Boy they sold neat stuff then!!

How about Honest Charlie too!!!!! Seems like yesterday.

Later, Jeff

On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, Andrew C. Green wrote:

> >I remember that I didn't want it because it had a built in hood scoop or
> >something like that so it couldn't be made to look like a regular 67 without
> >a lot of work. Apparently, this company re-released this kit so it's value
> >wasn't real high to a collector (which I'm not anyway).
> 
> Does anyone remember a mail-order place called Auto World in 
> Scranton, PA? They sold both model cars and real car parts, in 
> separate catalogs. I found a 1968 model car catalog a while ago 
> in the basement of my parents' house. Jeez, paging through that 
> thing brought back some memories... Is that outfit still around?
> 
> If I can find that catalog again this weekend it might show who 
> was making '67 442 kits back then, too...
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 01:01:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Needing Mondello info

'68 H/O is the ONLY "A" body OLDS or better yet GM car to get a 455 from 
the factory that I know of. The BAN was lifted in '70. Since the car was 
an "aftermarket" through Hurst they got around the Corporate GM BAN.


On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, Tom Lentz wrote:

> 
>      I'm sure someone else will come in and correct me if I'm wrong, but 
>      AFAIK the '68 Hurst/Olds was the only way you could get a 455 in a 
>      Cutlass that year.  Well, at least they *were* Cutlass's before being 
>      shipped to Hurst for customizing.
>      
>      Tom.
> 
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
> Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info
> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
> Date:    9/12/96 12:19 PM
> 
> but all the CA smog info I've found indicates that a 455 was an option for 
> 68. Probably the larger cars had a 455, not the Cutlass, but the CA smog 
> books don't break 1968 down into models, just the year. (Is it possible to 
> have ordered a 68 Cutlass with a 455 from the dealer or factory???) I need 
to 
> prove to the smog guys that a 455 "COULD" have come in the car that year!
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 01:05:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Needing Mondello info

Buy the "HURST HERITAGE" and the "Oldsmobile 442 & W Machines
 Restoration Guide" I'll tell you more then we could on the net.  Neat 
pictures too!!

 On Thu, 12 Sep 1996 DESIMONEP@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 96-09-12 17:49:32 EDT, you write:
> 
> > I'm sure someone else will come in and correct me if I'm wrong, but 
> >       AFAIK the '68 Hurst/Olds was the only way you could get a 455 in a 
> >       Cutlass that year.  Well, at least they *were* Cutlass's before being
> 
> >       shipped to Hurst for customizing.
> >       
> >       Tom.
> 
> If this is so, what did Hurst do to the Olds Cutlass in 68 to make it a H/O?
> Did they have a dual gate shifter that year?
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 01:29:55 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Engine weight

>I've seen similar deals around town. Rental place want's $42 to rent it,
>since I'll need to rent it twice and prolly need one at least once more in
>my life I may just go buy one. Unless of course I could get Jason to borrow
>his Dad's truck and come pull it for me. ;)

Ahh, rental sounds better. Asked dad and he quoted me $100 to go up and pull
it out. Call tow companies in Cleveland that have hydraulic wreckers and get
some quotes. Someone closer might do it alot cheaper.

________________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Grad Student in Sports Administration at Kent State University
1988 Iroc Z/28	1974 Buick Riveria Stage I 455
1980 4-4-2 W-30	1975 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 01:34:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Re2: Die Cast Models 

In a message dated 96-09-12 23:57:58 EDT, you write:

<< have two of the Johnny Lightning Muscle Car U.S.A. series '69 442s.  I got

 them at a local discount store here called "Grandpas," which are all over 
 the St. Louis Metropolitan area.  They were only $2.49 each.  They are 
 actually a Hurst Olds, complete with hood scoop and whale tail fin on the 
 trunk.  I have one in blue and one in green (they apparently don't have them

 with original colors of white and gold).  Each one comes complete with a 
 collector coin that has a picture of the car, the car model, a limited 
 edition number, and a series issue number.  They are 1:64 scale (Matchbox 
 size).  The quality is pretty good.  On a scale of one to 10, I'd give it 
 about a 7.  With the exception of slightly oversized wheel wells, it is a 
 pretty neat item.  It even has a hood that opens.  Not bad for under 5 
 bucks!  There is a number on the back of the package for questions, and a 
 free issue of their newsletter.  It is 1-800-MANTIS-8.   I haven't called it

 though, and there is a T-shirt offer that you can write to for, that expired

 12/31/95.  It is Johnny Lightning Sportswear offer - P.O. Box 248, 
 Cassopolis, MI 49031-0248.  I've had these for about a year.  I remembered 
 them when I saw the above message.  Hope this helps for anyone looking for 
 them. >>

There are 11 series of the 69 442 and one box set with the right colors 
for the 69H/O and a special set from FAO Schwartz and the Toy Fair 95 car
which makes 14 different colors for the 442.  They are shipping the Muscle 
Cars USA vol II in the stores this week, sorry no Oldsmobiles.


W Machines

------------------------------

From: tjhill <tjhill@cris.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:02:02 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 Olds Cutlass Supreme for sale

> > 71 Cut Sup Conv for sale: Painted 3 yrs... 
> > reasonable offer around $6000.00
> 
> Thomas,
> 
> 2 questions: what is the mileage and where is the car located? Email me
> privately if you wish. Thanks!
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada



1st question: 93,000 original miles (still runs great)
2nd question: Boston, Massachusetts

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:16:20 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 vin # 

In a message dated 96-09-12 23:46:13 EDT, you write:

<< Could some one please decode this tag from my firewall on my '72 cutlass 
 cruiser? 
 
 ST 72 33G36 R 01882 BDY
 TR 929   A52 63 11 PNT
 05D0184
  >>

72 is model year  3 is division which is Olds 3G is cutlass 36 is station
wagon

















                                                                            2
seat
r is for Arlington Texas where the car was built
01882 is unit number
tr 929 is color interior which is saddle vinyl
A52 is conventional bench seat
63 is lower body color which is saddle bronze
11 is upper body or fabric color which is cameo white
05D0184 IS TIME built code 

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:19:52 -0300
Subject: Doors 

>Seconded.  The 88 and 98 were different body styles, one a B the other a C.
>I think these might have been built on one body style starting in the late
>70's or early 80's.
>
>You could take a number of measurements and compare at the boneyard, or
>check the Hollander interchange guide.  Andy, could you look this up?


To put in my $.02, I have a 66 98 and a 67 88 and the doors are very 
diffrent...
Kenneth

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:27:33 -0300
Subject: FW: axle bearings 

Yeah,Bob, it is an interference fit. I apologise for the poor choice of
terms.(stake vs. press) ...I was in kind of a hurry...but I did get the first 
11
steps right !

Frank Boerger


 >>It is held in place by a pressed
>>on collar.  At this point, I take mine to a muffler/brake place, and they
cut
>>off the old collar, press off the old bearing, press on the new bearing,
press
>>on and stake the new collar, you pay, say $30, slide the assembly into the
>>differential, install the four bolts as original, install drum/wheel/lugs
nuts,
>>and VIOLA !!!

>Whoa, wait a minute, "stake the new collar"?

>That would be quite a feat, hammering on the axel shaft.  Hammering on the
>collar would likely start to loosen it.  Leave it alone.  It is a press fit
>for a reason.  The interference holds it in place.  The collar should not be
>touched until the bearing needs replacement.


Hey about that stake/press thing, we lost an axel on the track, the force
of the turn sucked it right out of the bering.  We hammered it back on with
a pipe and a sledge then with a pare of sun glasses and a nail put a blob
on behind the bering.  It has never come out again...
Kenneth

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:26:42 -0300
Subject: Re: '72 vin # resent 

In a message dated 96-09-13 01:19:12 EDT, you write:

<< Could some one please decode this tag from my firewall on my '72 cutlass 
  cruiser? 
  
  ST 72 33G36 R 01882 BDY
  TR 929   A52 63 11 PNT
  05D0184
   >>

  72 is model year  3 is division which is Olds 3G is cutlass 
36 is station wagon 2 seat
 r is for Arlington Texas where the car was built
 01882 is unit number
 tr 929 is color interior which is saddle vinyl
 A52 is conventional bench seat
 63 is lower body color which is saddle bronze
 11 is upper body or fabric color which is cameo white
 05D0184 IS TIME built code 
 
 W MACHINES
 72 442 W-30
  >>

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:34:58 -0300
Subject: Parts 

>Just turn the drum around and put it back on the lugs backwards and screw 3
>of the lugnuts back on 2-3 turns and use the drum as a slide hammer to get
>the axle to pull out of the rearend.
>Brad (0-0||||0-0)

>Hey, that's an excellent idea, Brad!  I've done rear wheel bearings once on
>my Olds and three times on a Toyota I used to own, and always rented one of
>those axle pullers.  Never thought of doing it with the drum.  Thanks!

I have seen this done at he track but remember those guys don't give a
sh*t.  Be prepaired to replace some studs.
Kenneth

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 03:02:42 -0300
Subject: Parts 

OK this is what I have, Stripping an 67 delta 88.
The seats (bench)have no rips at all.
The carpet(god forbid anyone would want it) is self renueing (mold)
The dash came out ok and all the gauges are intact and work
Crank wing and side windows
The trim around the ft win is intact and a lovely shade of cream..
The grill looks to be ok and the turn signal trim is all there (four layers)
The ft bumper is tweaks, not dimpled but tweaked, little rust but no rust out
The gas tank it going to be yanked and will join the 98's in a pile should
anyone want it
All I need of the doors is the outer skin and I would consider another bent
door in trade.
Still have the windows out of the 66 98 and expect to get them out intact
from the 67 88 also
The beastie had air so did the 98, any I still have both.
Heater box will come out nicely if anyone wants it, if not Hatchet Time!
Still have the grill and head light assembly out of the 66 98 also the t
lights, a little worse for the ware.
I am just gutting this thing so send in requests, I am not above trading
and am looking for a disk setup that would fit the 67 88
Anyone want fr drums? I've got 5
Also any in formation about the worth of a Buick 430 would be aprecated,
runs but really needs a tune up.
I really don't want to see the trim and things go to the dump again and
could be talked down to COD for shipping.
Kenneth

PS:  I am looking for sponsors for this Olds we race.  Just think of a
classic Olds punching through an impala, does my heart good...hey just how
long can I run a 425 at 5500 RPM's anyway?

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 06:21:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Silicone Grease?

Greg Pruett wrote:

> Yup.  It also makes it a lot easier to pull the boots off of the plugs.  I
> bought a tube of grease along with a new set of wires a couple of weeks ago.
> I think they stock it specifically for spark plug wires.  You can buy about
> 1/2 ounce for a buck and a half at  advanced auto.(if memory serves me,
> less than $2 anyway)  Kinda steep but I figured I just needed enough to lube
> sixteen boots so I didn't mind so much.  I didn't use half the tube.
> I don't know for sure if the silicon is safe for your application but I
> can't really see how it could be any worse than vasoline.

Greg,

Thanks for the advice. Its not that vasoline is bad.....at least initially as 
it tends 
to get gooie and loses its properties when it gets wet and/or old. Also, this 
is a 
winter car (Milwaukee 25 below 0) vasoline gets a bit thick at that 
temperature!

Do you have a product name for that stuff?

Greg
- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 04:34:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight

I have to say those "tilters" are wastes of money.  I have had no 
problems installing engines in cars with a simple chain.  If you have to 
"tilt" the engine you can adjust the chain a few links either way.  Cheap 
and easy...

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 05:11:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Needing Mondello info

Speaking of Toro pans, a subject which has ben dormant a while, I heard 
that as lately as 5-7 years ago, there were still some NEW Toro pans 
available from GM dealers..there must still be some out there no?

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 22:35:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Q-Jet Books:

At 03:51 PM 9/12/96 -0300, you wrote:
>LOTS of stuff.  Cost to me was $15.00 U.S. 

>unfortunately I did not order the hardcover 
>binder ($36.00)

>After that arrives, order PN 9XC for the 
>contents only or order PN 9X for the $36.00 in hardcover binder.

Please clear this up...Does the binder cost an _extra_ $36.00 (in addition
to the $15.00 the manuals cost)?  Or does the $36.00 for the binder include
the manuals?  Just trying to decide how to order this stuff...
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@clic.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:51:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Q-Jet Books:

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> 
> Please clear this up...Does the binder cost an _extra_ $36.00 (in addition
> to the $15.00 the manuals cost)?  Or does the $36.00 for the binder include
> the manuals?  Just trying to decide how to order this stuff...
> --
> Dave Paulison 

Dave:

>From the order form:

9X  PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL with CONTENTS
Includes a hardcover binder with contents.  This does not include 
the Volume II.......Complete Set  $36.00

91-9  9X Parts and service binder only......$21.50

91-9.2  Volume LL parts and service binder only.....$21.50

9XC  9X Contents only......$15.00

Hope this helps


Joe McCall

------------------------------

From: "bansell" <bansell@xl.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 05:16:39 -0300
Subject: 84' HURST PICTURES? 

     DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND PICTURES (JPEG,GIF'S) 
     OF AN 84' HURST.. IF ANYONE KNOWS COULD YOU PLEASE WRITE
     ME BACK AT THIS ADDRESS.. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
                                   -BILL ANSELL
     bansell@xl.com

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 13:22:42 -0300
Subject: Re: 84' HURST PICTURES?

bansell wrote:
> 
>      DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND PICTURES (JPEG,GIF'S)
>      OF AN 84' HURST.. IF ANYONE KNOWS COULD YOU PLEASE WRITE
>      ME BACK AT THIS ADDRESS.. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
>                                    -BILL ANSELL
>      bansell@xl.com

If you can get your hands on a printed pictures, get them to me, and I'll 
scan them in high res. in any format you need. If you need an "83" that I 
can help you with ! Check out the sample gif's at the site below.

Let me know !

- -- 

Bill !                                         _           _       ___
                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition    /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1986 442 The Perfect "10"                /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                              |_|         |_|   |_______|
          
               Visit http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 13:52:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Silicone Grease?

Gregory G. Kalkhoff wrote:
> 
> Can anyone recommend or have experience with a silicone based 
> grease/lubricant?

My neighbor has some kind of a "Nuclear Grade" lubricant that his son got 
for him.  He uses in on his boat stuff -- which spends a good deal of 
time in salt water -- with no ill efects.  I'll get the specific numbers 
off the can when I see him and maybe "Windy" Ludlam can locate it.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:19:40 -0300
Subject: more on "pocket rocket"

Well, I don't reckon that that 350 got hurt when it fell-- Because it runs!!!
I've gotten most things straightened out, and I DROVE the cutlass to the 
muffler shop late yesterday evening-- with only open manifolds, but not 
very far!  This afternoon, I should have a well-running Oldsmobile again.  
What I meant about the size difference between the two 350's I saw was that 
my valve covers seem quite a bit wider (I haven't measured yet) and mine just 
all-together seemed to take up more room in the engine compartment.  This 
weekend I'm going back by the junkyard and I'm going to measure stuff.  To 
the person who asked whether it is better to push or pull an engine hoist:  
both of the ones I rented had 2 legs in the from rather than one, but it 
seemed easier to pull it towards me from the back than to push it.  !!Make 
sure that you have somebody with you to keep the motor from swaying as you 
move it, with a 455, getting the motor swaying could have disasterous results!!
The second cherry-picker I rented had a handle made for pulling it along 
from behind-- this was very handy!

Bye for now,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:28:12 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Engine weight 

I have to say those "tilters" are wastes of money.  I have had no 
problems installing engines in cars with a simple chain.  If you have to 
"tilt" the engine you can adjust the chain a few links either way.  Cheap 
and easy...
          
          Sorry, I have to disagree.  While it is certainly possible 
          to adjust the chain (and admittedly cheaper), your choices 
          are to 1) temporarily set the freshly painted engine down on 
          your freshly painted frame while you readjust (and usually 
          the motor will rock, sending the valve cover into the 
          firewall) or 2) pull the motor back out, set it down, and 
          readjust.  Obviously either of these will work, but neither 
          is desireable.  I realize that most times we are not working 
          on 100 point show cars, and I have, in fact, done just as 
          you suggest more times than not.  Given the choice, however, 
          the cuss factor will be much lower when using the tilter.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 10:39:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine weight 

>One caveat. They may have figured out metal fabrication, but they haven't
>mastered the ability of including all the nuts and bolts required to
>assemble the unit. Be sure you can get to a hardware store between the time
>you buy and assemble it, and the time you actually need to use it.

Let me also suggest that you splurge an extra 75 cents or so to buy
Grade 8 bolts, just to be sure that all that fabulous metal fabrication
doesn't collapse just because one of its fasteners failed.

If I recall right, Grade 8 bolts have 5 lines on the head, Grade 5 have
3 lines, lesser grades have none. This is for imperial (inch) sizes;
the metrics use numbers instead, and I'll have to let someone else tell
us the details for those...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: hitson@leadbelt.com (Roger Hitson)
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 23:56:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Silicone Grease?

>Hi all, 
>
>
>Can anyone recommend or have experience with a silicone based 
grease/lubricant?
>
>I need a lubricant that is unaffected by water (moisture/condensation) and 
won't destroy 
>a fairly soft rubber piston for the healight actuator cans on 66 & 67 
Toros. I was told 
>that the factory used vasolene petroleum jelly off all things and that 
ordinary 
>axle/bearing grease will dissolve the rubber over time.  
>
>Someone mentioned to me a silicone lubricant that is used on spark plug 
caps to prevent 
>moisture build up and reduce arcing. Is this true? Will this stuff work for 
my 
>application?
>
>TIA
>
>Greg
>
>-- 
>Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
>4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
>Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
>414-447-7500
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________--

I used to buy a silicone paste lube in a small tube from NAPA. I used it for 
seals around a T-top car and it worked very well - held up to heat, sun, 
etc., better than Vaseline or ArmorAll & similar.

When I first tried to buy this product, the NAPA parts guys told me just to 
use Vaseline or ArmorAll. At my insistence they ordered the product I 
eventually purchased through them. Seems they didn't stock it.

Don't remember for sure, but believe it was a NAPA brand label. 


Roger Hitson

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:51:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Silicone Grease? 

At 01:52 PM 9/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Gregory G. Kalkhoff wrote:
>> 
>> Can anyone recommend or have experience with a silicone based 
>> grease/lubricant?
>
Manufacturers today recommend dielectric grease. You can get it at any parts
store that knows what their doing(that kinda narrows it down don't it!!??).
Niehoff puts it out as well as good sparkplug wire manufacturers, etc.

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible...up on jackstands again!!
     

------------------------------

From: RBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:22:29 -0300
Subject: Insurance Info?

     I am in the process on obtaining classic car insurance on my 
     completely restified '72 442 Convertible (W 30 copy and modified but 
     streetable 455).  Does anyone have any particular recommendations or 
     companies to avoid at all cost?
     
     After comparing info. from a bunch of companies from Hemmings,  I am 
     thinking about going with Hagerty Classic Automobile Insurance of 
     Traverse City, MI.  They are underwritten by Greenwich Ins. Co.  who 
     is a member of the NAC Re Corporation group and carry an "A" rating.  
     This is an Agreed Value Policy that reflects the full amount that I 
     willingly "over?"spent on this car.
     
     Any info./ experiences out there would be GREATLY appreciated!
     
     Bob Braden / OCA#?
     rbraden@qualitybio.com
     '71 442 coupe
     '72 442 conv. 
     '74 88  conv. 

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:37:03 -0300
Subject: GM Resto Parts Locator 

Mr. Goodwrench has finally got his resto parts locator on line.  Check out

        http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmrp/r4000.htm

There's a lot of sources listed of GM licenced resto parts...  

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:54:33 -0300
Subject: HEI Update... 

OK, last night I got a recurve kit for my HEI distributor.  I put in the new
weights and the blue springs (the medium ones).  It's a little better now.  I
also turned the distributor counter-clockwise a tidbit.  But I still don't seem
to have the power I used to have with the points ignition.  I checked the
vaccum advance when I had the cap and rotor off by sucking on the line.
 The thingy moved, so I figure that the distributor part of it is working.  But
then I removed the line from the distributor while it was idling.  Not much
change, if any at all.  I put my hand over the end of the line.  There
wasn't enough vacuum to even tell.  I reved the engine... no noticeable
change.  Is this normal?  I had to suck on the hose pretty hard to get the
thing to move.  Shouldn't that hose be sucking on my finger pretty hard? 
And even harder when the rpm's go up?  I checked out a book from the
library about ignitions and it shows one of those valve things with the
three nipples.  It said the top one goes to the carberetor (where?), the
middle one goes to the distributor, and the bottom one goes to the
manifold (where?).  Well, on mine, the top and middle ones are hooked to
the carb, and the bottom one is hooked to the distributor.  Could this be
my problem?  What is the function of these valves and how are they
supposed to be hooked up?  Anyone with a '71-'72 Cutlass know?  It
must have been hooked up right before the old distributor was removed,
but it's not now.  Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks,
- -Blaine
'72 "Still Gutlass" Supreme

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 21:03:02 -0300
Subject: Server down

Just in case anyone has tried to reach me please try again as my server was 
down since Monday.

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:34:00 -0300
Subject: Re3: Die Cast Models

Hey, check out Johnny Lightning products on the net at 
http://www.phreakco.com/bone/jl/jl.html

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:39:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442

<<Nice job.  Those Oldsmobiles are a good set of cars.  I ordered a 1973
<<Vista Cruiser w/455 4 barrel, 3.23 posi & everything else I could get.
<<ad to later add the SSIII wheels, sport mirrors, & gauge package
<<cause they wouldn't sell them on a station wagon.  They were all
<<available for a 4 door sedan.

<<The car was very slow, the engine surged at stoplights, & got around 8
<<mpg. I experimented w/a '70 442 cam, Edlebrock maniford, B & M street
<<shift kit, headers, 650 Holley, & recurved distributor.  The results
<<were nice torque of the chirp tires from 1st to 2nd type & 14-15 mpg on
<<the highway.

<<I didn't like the Holley & changed the original Quadrajet to Buick Stage
<<1 specs to replace it.  I hated the headers coming loose, burning
<<gaskets, & ruining solenoids & replace the headers w/stock exhaust.  The
<<results were more reliability, same seat of the pants performance feel,
<<& equal gas mileage.

<<My experiment was done on the car at 7,000 miles.  I drove it another
<<123,000 very happy miles until 1987 when I bout a brand X.  That was a
<<nice smooth powerful car w/a lot of fine memories.

<<Bill Culp
<<Decatur, Alabama
_______________________
Bill,

I must say, you have great writing skills.  Not just with this one, but with 
a bunch of  messages you've posted.  Very interesting stuff, easy to follow, 
and fun to read.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:48:00 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Engine weight

My .02 worth:
I just pulled my engine out about 3 weeks ago, and rented a cherry picker 
for only $17 for 4 hours.  It only took me about an hour to pull the engine 
 (everything was all ready for it before I brought the cherry picker home). 
 At that rate, it would take quite a few pulls to justify me to buy one. 
 You might want to check around.  I rented mine from a rental center that 
rents everything from babyseats to bulldozers.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible
________________________________________________________
>I've seen similar deals around town. Rental place want's $42 to rent it,
>since I'll need to rent it twice and prolly need one at least once more in
>my life I may just go buy one. Unless of course I could get Jason to borrow
>his Dad's truck and come pull it for me. ;)

Ahh, rental sounds better. Asked dad and he quoted me $100 to go up and pull
it out. Call tow companies in Cleveland that have hydraulic wreckers and get
some quotes. Someone closer might do it alot cheaper.

------------------------------

From: "ROB MALLAND" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 10:27:42 -0300 
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442

YOU WROTE:
The interior is slightly different for "Supreme" vs. the other two
models.(door panel trim, emblems, ect.) 
Also, the header panels and tailight lens on Cutlass/s and Supremes were
different, the Supreme having straigt plastic divider on the lens while the
Cutlass/S had a rocket on the divider. The header panel on a Supreme Featured
narrower grills, and a space between the headlights and the grill the Cutlass
had a lower, wider grill, and no space. The 442-H/O used the Cutlass panel,
thought the grill was different.
 ---<< yes, you're right, and the H/o used the 442 grille >>--- 

3.73-5.00 Axles were offered as dealer installed. 
3.42-5.00 were not offered w/HD cooling or AC
 ---<< yes, again you're right. >>---
The basic 442 hood had a fiberglass "bubble" of louvers riveted on the hood
which put the louvers aprox. 1" above the rest of the hood. 
Don't know if the hood ornament was spring loaded. ---<<The book
"Hurst-Heritage" shows a nice picture ofthe "new" spring-loaded hood ornament
>>---The  442-H/O hood had louvers in the metal, the bolt on plastic louvers
were part of the CutlassS package.
 ---<< I meant to say that the H/O used the 442 hood with the addition of a
fiberglass "bubble" of fake air inlets--The basic 442 hood has large louvers
that are recessed in the hood, while the H/O's actually stick up avove the
hood. The Cutlass$ that I owned previous had what you described, the two chrome
"grille-louvers" on each side of the hood on the crease marks. >>---
 The H/O's came with a dual-gate shifter as well. The H/O could also be ordered
with a digital Hurst tach, which was not available on other Cutlass/S, Supreme,
or 442.
color-keyed dual side sport mirrors, mini console, sports console.
 ---<< yes,exactly. >>---
 I don't think that a sunroof was offered. ---<< Vista-Ventilator was an option
on 442,not sure about H/O >>---The 4-speed couldn't be had with the H/O, but it
could be ordered with the 455 in the other models, something Pontiac and Buick
didn't do, and included a Hurst shifter, at least in 442. 
 ---<< Yes, I meant to say that  only 442's could get the muncie M-20 wide
ratio >>---
Other options of interest are the Rally Pac, Superlift shocks,Clock, Cruise AC,
block heater, remote trunk release, sport steering wheel, rear defrost,
courtesy lights, the Salon Package on the Cutlass/S and wagons, bumper Guards,
thermometer, door edge guards, hood lock, tilt wheel, PS, PDB, and the 
 All info I've listed is from the Assembly manual, hope it's accurate.
 BTW what engine/tranny does your 442 have?
 DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme
 ---<< my info came from the original dealer brochure for '73,wow--some funny
pictures in there of '73 hair styles and clothes !! also the book
"Hurst-Heritage" ,the book "Oldsmobile-the performance years" and some from the
assembly manuals.  I owned a '73 "Supreme" for 1 year till somebody wrecked
into me, then I bought a '73 Cutlass$ and had a great time with it till I
discovered a '73-442- which I bought in '86 and still own today. (although it's
for sale now because I think I am going to get a year I can actually buy parts
for i.e. '70-'72) However the '73 will always be my favorite year !
Right now my 442 has a non-matching #'s engine-but the rest is pretty much
stock. (we weren't so touchy about matching #'s back in '83-'87)
It's a 350/TH350. I have seen literaly over 60 1973 Cutlass/$/442's in the
Puget Sound area and I have NEVER seen a 4-speed car,EVER... The first one I
see I will probably buy just out of curiosity. Have you ever seen one (I even
look at car shows-none pop up.)

ROB MALLAND  '73-442 
TACOMA,WA (really Bonney Lake for you WA guys. 
              '96-Cutlass-Supreme


- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "ROB MALLAND" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:54:56 -0300 
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442

YOU WROTE:
I hated the headers coming loose, burning gaskets, & ruining solenoids &
replace the headers w/stock exhaust.  The results were more reliability, same
seat of the pants performance feel,& equal gas mileage.
Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

     BILL, My friend had a 73 "Custom Cruiser" and he too was somewhat
dissapointed w/ overall performance-he definitely should have done what you did
!!
     My '73-442 has a Mondello built (please,no boo's !) 350c.i. (I only spent
$3500.00) I also had header problems, and when I took them off and replaced
them with the stock manifolds the car was quieter, more of a sleeper--also no
more starter problems.  The stock manifolds look realy good after you sandblast
them and use the Easton clear protector.
     I purchased the Original 1973 full color dealer brochure from one of the
"10 second quotes" guys out of Hemmings-to see what what options were availble-
and sure enough, the SSIII were ONLY availble on Cutlass/S/Supreme/Omega. My
friend also swapped the SSIII on his cruiser-they looked really good.
     Bill, I still wouldn't mind a spacious cruiser to load the
kids/dog/cooler/kitchen sink -and go for a cross country drive to see the
relatives...My '96 Cutlass Supreme 4dr. is not half as roomy as the old one you
had !

Rob Malland  1996-Cutlass/Supreme
Tacoma, WA   1973-442 (still looking for parts/cars in my area !)
     

- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:34:58 -0300
Subject: FW: Silicone Grease?

Greg:

It's true about silicone grease...you often find it around the brake parts
section.  It won't wash off, or attack rubber parts...goos at higher temps, 
too.
I even work a little into my wiper blades, let it absorb, wipe off the excess,
and it seems to let them last longer. Just use precautions if you are going to
paint in that area later...the stuff seems to migrate every where !

At NAPA it is sold under the Balkamp brand.  I just bought some at Pep Boys, 
and
it's called "Silicone Lubricant Grease".

Frank Boerger

>Can anyone recommend or have experience with a silicone based
>grease/lubricant?

>I need a lubricant that is unaffected by water (moisture/condensation) and
>won't destroy 
>a fairly soft rubber piston for the healight actuator cans on 66 & 67 Toros. I
>was told 
>that the factory used vasolene petroleum jelly off all things and that 
ordinary

>axle/bearing grease will dissolve the rubber over time.  

>Someone mentioned to me a silicone lubricant that is used on spark plug >caps
to prevent 
>moisture build up and reduce arcing. Is this true? Will this stuff work for 
my 
>application?
- -- 
>Greg Kalkhoff     

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:25:00 -0300
Subject: RE: GM Resto Parts Locator

These two messages came through blank : "GM Resto Parts Locator" & "HEI 
Update..."  They are two topics I would be interested in hearing about, so 
if someone would mind forwarding me these if they got them, I would really 
appreciate it.  Thanks a bunch.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 13:32:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass and 442 

Bill,

>That was a nice smooth powerful car w/a lot of fine memories.

I know what you mean...

Roger Borlase
'72 Cutlass Cruiser
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:24:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Ninety Eight 1964 

>Here is the original p/n for the '64 ignition switch: 1116646

Okay, I relayed that this morning to the outfit I was talking to
yesterday. Bob, the guy I spoke to yesterday who wanted this number, 
had just left for lunch but I gave them the details to forward to
him so we'll see if he calls back.

Esko, if you're reading this, raise your hand... I assume if you
suddenly find a switch elsewhere you will let us know?  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 13:20:00 -0300
Subject: Vin #

Could someone help me decode my VIN#s off my '69 Convertible?
Here they are:

ST69   33667LAN434727  BDY
TR      944              75    B    PNT
          07A

Thank you (In advance)

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:20:10 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 84' HURST PICTURES? 

     There's one picture of mine at www.442.com (under the owner's 
     registry, Tom Lentz).  If you're using Netscape right click on the 
     photo to bring up a save-as menu.  I also have two press release 
     photographs from GM.  They're in B&W though.  I can scan the B&W one 
     and e-mail it if you like.
     
     Or, if you'd like a "particular" photo, I have a few shots left in a 
     roll that I need to use up before I get it developed.  I can go out 
     and snap a few for you.  It's kind of a cheap camera, so it won't be 
     pro quality.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: 84' HURST PICTURES?
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/13/96 9:36 AM


bansell wrote:
> 
>      DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND PICTURES (JPEG,GIF'S) 
>      OF AN 84' HURST.. IF ANYONE KNOWS COULD YOU PLEASE WRITE 
>      ME BACK AT THIS ADDRESS.. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
>                                    -BILL ANSELL 
>      bansell@xl.com
     
If you can get your hands on a printed pictures, get them to me, and I'll 
scan them in high res. in any format you need. If you need an "83" that I 
can help you with ! Check out the sample gif's at the site below.
     
Let me know !

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 13:40:00 -0300
Subject: FW: GM Resto Parts Locator

Thank you all very much.  (Brad and Dave) I got em!

Jeff
_____________________________________
<<These two messages came through blank : "GM Resto Parts Locator" & "HEI 
Update..."  They are two topics I would be interested in <<hearing about, so 
if someone would mind forwarding me these if they got them, I would really 
appreciate it.  Thanks a bunch.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:46:06 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI Update...

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> OK, last night I got a recurve kit for my HEI distributor.  I put in the new
> weights and the blue springs (the medium ones).  It's a little better now.  I
> also turned the distributor counter-clockwise a tidbit.  But I still don't 
seem
> to have the power I used to have with the points ignition.  I checked the
> vaccum advance when I had the cap and rotor off by sucking on the line.
>  The thingy moved, so I figure that the distributor part of it is working.  
But
> then I removed the line from the distributor while it was idling.  Not much
> change, if any at all.  I put my hand over the end of the line.  There
> wasn't enough vacuum to even tell.  I reved the engine... no noticeable
> change.  Is this normal?  I had to suck on the hose pretty hard to get the
> thing to move.  Shouldn't that hose be sucking on my finger pretty hard?
> And even harder when the rpm's go up?  I checked out a book from the
> library about ignitions and it shows one of those valve things with the
> three nipples.  It said the top one goes to the carberetor (where?), the
> middle one goes to the distributor, and the bottom one goes to the
> manifold (where?).  Well, on mine, the top and middle ones are hooked to
> the carb, and the bottom one is hooked to the distributor.  Could this be
> my problem?  What is the function of these valves and how are they
> supposed to be hooked up?  Anyone with a '71-'72 Cutlass know?  It
> must have been hooked up right before the old distributor was removed,
> but it's not now.  Any help would be appreciated...
> 
> Thanks,
> -Blaine
> '72 "Still Gutlass" Supreme

O.K. Blaine,
	More than likely you got the ports all mixed up. Just as a test forget 
about the valve 
on the intake manifold. This is smog related. You'll hook this up later. Now, 
want I want you 
to do is unplug all the three ports. Now I know you have a connector on the 
intake between the 
carb and the front of the intake. It maybe a tee or just a 90 degree type. 
That source has 
vaccuum. If you are using a quadra-jet then use this connector and tee off a 
line for use to 
the vac. advance on the distributor. If you tee into it you will notice you 
have vaccuum. If 
not then you intake is plugged, this is bad and must be fixed. If you have a 
holley then use a 
top port on the left side/front of the carb to the vac. adv. 

Both of thses suggestions should atleast be able to allow you to test you HEI. 
Now to fix your 
TCSV (Transmission Controlled Spark Valve). It has three ports. This valve 
will open one of 
the ports more/less given the temperature of the coolant. You can simply test 
this by allowing 
the car to warm up to operating temp and by placing a vac. hose on one of the 
port blowing air 
into it. One port will be used as a source of vaccum, porbably the top one. 
The other two will 
be for the vac. adv. and the air cleaner (I think). When the engine is cold 
the ports should 
flow easily because you need more vac. adv so that it will warm the engine up 
sooner. As the 
temp rise the valve begins to close allowing less vac, since the engine is 
warm you won't need 
as much now. There was a post a little while back which showed a diagram of 
the vavlve and 
showing where the ports go but I can't seem to find it right and I have the 
chasis manual at 
home not with me right. Just do what I mention on top and atleast you should 
be able to 
atleast test the HEI. 
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 14:43:52 -0300
Subject: RE: Vin # 

>ST69   33667LAN434727  BDY
>TR      944              75    B    PNT
>          07A

Here's a resonable attempt:  (Though this other guy is do a MUCH better job of 
this detective work)
'69 year.  3 -> olds 3667 -> Cutlass v-8 conververtable.  
Lan -> Lansing, Mi plant	434727-> number of car to come out of that 
plant that year.  944 -> trim code  07a -> built first week in July.  
75 -> Aztec Gold exerior B  -> Gold converible top?

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 10:57:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert??? 

Hi Brad,
  My computer's been down and in the shop (hard drive!) for about a week + , 
so my access to the list has been more than limited.  What stuff do you need? 
 I'm getting some parts from this guy down south, really nice guy, private 
owner.  The prices are very reasonable too.  Write me back!

                                                     Craig
>Date:		Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:33:28 -0300
>From:	Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert???
>
>At 07:40 09/12/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>>Hello,
>>  I was just wondering if anyone out there has heard of anyone, seen any
> ads, 
>>or knows where there is a decent '68 442/Cutlass Convertable (even a '69 
>>Convert) that is being parted out?  Please return a note if you do.
>>
>>                                                    Thank You,
>>                                                      Craig Dobbins
>>
>Hey Craig!! Where have you been? Long time no hear. I need some '68 parts
> as
>well for my car and the convertible top needs some help. Any extra parts
>that you hear about, let me know.Ok? See ya...
>
>Brad '68 CS convt
>
>

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:02:40 -0300
Subject: Dip Stick Tube 

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get a broken dip stick tube
out of my block. It broke off flusk with the block of course...The engine is
still in the car so removing the oil pan is out of the question. 

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible...up on jackstands again!!
     

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:04:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Insurance Info? 

Hi, 
  I have classic insurance through J.C. Taylor in PA, $12,000 worth of 
coverage cost me $110.00 per year, good company.  Many classic vehicle owners 
I know go through them.

                                              Craig Dobbins
                                               '68 442 Convert.
>Date:		Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:22:29 -0300
>From:	RBraden@qualitybio.com
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Insurance Info?
>
>     I am in the process on obtaining classic car insurance on my 
>     completely restified '72 442 Convertible (W 30 copy and modified but 
>     streetable 455).  Does anyone have any particular recommendations or 
>     companies to avoid at all cost?
>     
>     After comparing info. from a bunch of companies from Hemmings,  I am 
>     thinking about going with Hagerty Classic Automobile Insurance of 
>     Traverse City, MI.  They are underwritten by Greenwich Ins. Co.  who 
>     is a member of the NAC Re Corporation group and carry an "A" rating.  
>     This is an Agreed Value Policy that reflects the full amount that I 
>     willingly "over?"spent on this car.
>     
>     Any info./ experiences out there would be GREATLY appreciated!
>     
>     Bob Braden / OCA#?
>     rbraden@qualitybio.com
>     '71 442 coupe
>     '72 442 conv. 
>     '74 88  conv. 
>

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:10:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Insurance Info? 

At 11:04 AM 9/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi, 
>  I have classic insurance through J.C. Taylor in PA, $12,000 worth of 
>coverage cost me $110.00 per year, good company.  Many classic vehicle owners 
>I know go through them.
>
>                                              Craig Dobbins
>                                               '68 442 Convert.

$12,000 worth of what kind of coverage? I would not think that this includes
liability. Where does your liability insurance come from? Is it on another
policy?

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible...up on jackstands again!!
     

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:19:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Insurance Info?

Craig Dobbins wrote:
> 
> Hi,
>   I have classic insurance through J.C. Taylor in PA, $12,000 worth of
> coverage cost me $110.00 per year, good company.  Many classic vehicle owners
> I know go through them.
> 
>Yeah, but what well they allow you to do with the car? Can't drive 
it...atleast like I want to.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:19:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Dip Stick Tube 

Dave,
I'd remove the LH exhaust manifold, get a pair of vice grips and
yank it out.
cf

------------------------------

From: "ROB MALLAND" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:22:35 -0300 
Subject: Cars for sale in Seattle (y-74 indy & '63-88?)

Hello, 
     A couple of cars for sale in the Seattle Times/P.I. today... they are
online so you can check them out in fuul on your own.. two worth mentioning
were: 1970 Olds Indy Y-74 -$1700.00/o.b.o. (206)743-7025
                 1963 Olds -88 ???

    I am only aware of "traderonline" and the "Seattle Times" on the web to
cruise a lot of ads at once is there any other place I can veiw a lot of ads at
once? (newspapers/clubs/ect...) I wish Hemmings would do as traderonline did-
that is, to publish all the info about the car and then change you the price of
the mag if you want the phone number.
    Help me out here people! Thank you.

Rob Malland   '73-442
Tacoma,Wa     '96-Cutlass-Supreme


- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:29:46 -0300
Subject: '66 Tri-Power Question 

Hello all,
  To those of you who know a bit about the BB '66 tri-carb intake, I'd 
appreciate a little information.  I just got mine all cleaned up and looking 
like new from a locally owned parts store/machine shop.  I've been told by 
people on the page that the square panels that are bolted on the top of the 
manifold (on either side of the center carb intake) are supposed to come off, 
revealing a sliding mechanism which is supposed to slide open when the engine 
heats up to a certain degree.  I am writing because even after cleaning, I 
can not get these square panels off.  I don't know if they're rusted on, or 
if I'm trying to take off the right thing or what.  The intake was just 
sitting around for years, along with the original carbs (and I want to 
restore it), but if these panels sre supposed to slide open, I'd sure 
appreciate some help here.  I'D LIKE TO KNOW THE BEST WAY to possibly get 
these top square shaped panels loosened up and removed, and then somehow free 
up the internal sliding mechanism and get the intake working the way it 
should again.  Any help from anyone who know what I'm talking about, and who 
knows what they're talking about would be GREATLY appreciated.  

  P.S.-  Just as a side note, I received two center carbs and only one end 
carb with this purchase ($500.00).  The end carb is the worst of them all, 
but restorable, and one center carb is better than the other, but needs 
restoration.  If anyone reading this has an end carb and may consider selling 
it or trading it for an original center carb, I'd really like to talk to you. 
 If anyone can help with this, please send back a message.  I'm also posting 
a separate message about wanting an end carb to the list.

                                                      Thank You,
                                                        Craig Dobbins.  

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:34:57 -0300
Subject: FW: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert???

I am  working on a '68 C/S convertible, and have a '68 coupe parts car.  Unitl 
I
get further along in the restoration, I won't know what I will have disposable
duplicates of.  What kinds of stuff are you guys looking for, and Craig, have
you found any convertible quarter panel sources, yet ??

Frank Boerger//Tallahassee, FL


>Hi Brad,
>My computer's been down and in the shop (hard drive!) for about a week + , 
>so my access to the list has been more than limited.  What stuff do you >need?
I'm getting some parts from this guy down south, really nice guy, >private
owner.  The prices are very reasonable too.  Write me back!

                                                     Craig
>Date:		Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:33:28 -0300
>From:	Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Anyone parting out a '68 442 Convert???
>
>At 07:40 09/12/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>>Hello,
>>  I was just wondering if anyone out there has heard of anyone, seen any
> ads, 
>>or knows where there is a decent '68 442/Cutlass Convertable (even a '69 
>>Convert) that is being parted out?  Please return a note if you do.
>>
>>                                                    Thank You,
>>                                                      Craig Dobbins
>>
>Hey Craig!! Where have you been? Long time no hear. I need some '68 parts
> as
>well for my car and the convertible top needs some help. Any extra parts
>that you hear about, let me know.Ok? See ya...
>
>Brad '68 CS convt
>
>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 16:36:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Dip Stick Tube 

     Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get a broken dip stick tube 
     out of my block. 
          
          I've had this happen also.  I found a self-tapping bolt 
          which would tightly fit into the stump of the dipstick tube, 
          then used a slide hammer to surgically remove it.  My slide 
          hammer required me to weld the self-tapping bolt to a 1/4-20 
          bolt (actually an Olds valve cover bolt) in order to attach 
          it to the slide hammer, but yours may vary.  Weld the bolts 
          head-to-head, screw the self-tapping end into the tube, 
          thread the slide hammer onto the other bolt, and slide away.
          
          BTW, this is a neat trick for pulling all sorts of things.  
          I've welded up a series of "adapters" like this.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:41:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Dip Stick Tube 

At 03:19 PM 9/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Dave,
>I'd remove the LH exhaust manifold, get a pair of vice grips and
>yank it out.
>cf
>
Thanks Chris but the LH head is off, the problem is that the tube is broken
flush with the block.

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible...up on jackstands again!!
     

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:49:05 -0300
Subject: Date:	Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:49:05 -0300

>Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 00:15:06
>To: oldsmobile
>From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>


Howdy again,sorry about your HD. Hope you made/have backups!!! I have been
repairing computers and peripherials since 1983, so I know all about
failures with hardware.This is a list of what I need for the Cutlass.I also
need shocks and springs all around,but will probably get those parts
new,unless you can find some springs from the rear of a wagon.

I am looking for some parts for my '68 CS convertible. Mostly interior parts
like a dash courtesy light lens,(mines kinda yellow), two lenses for the
rear arm rest lights, a drivers door handle pad -black-,a parking brake
pedal pad and the knob for the release, a glovebox lock mech, two front
window handles, a passengers door panel -black/no carpet-, driver side sun
visor, rear quarter windows rubber strips -2-, and a dashboard clock that
works. Also I am looking for a front right side running light(markerlight)
and some metal connecting bar pieces for the convertible top that have
broken. I don't have a very big budget for this car right now because Honey
has other things she wants to spend money on -curtains or some stupid thing
like that- but I would like to here from any '68 Cutlass and convertible
owners that have extra parts taking up space. Thanks....be talking to you
soon. Dont forget to backup!! Use your mirrors!!;-)
>
>Brad  (0-0||||0-0) CS Convt
>

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 17:25:59 -0300
Subject: Silicone Lubricant

All,

Thanks for all guidance and wisdom.

I did locate a tube of it at my local Olds dealer. If anyone is interested, 
heres the 
numbers:

DELCO REMY

1974984     1 #D1920

Silicone Dielectric Grease

Net Wt. 14.2 grams

Small 3 inch tube, the grease has a vasoline color and is slimy as all get out!

Thanks again,

Greg

- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 17:46:53 -0300
Subject: Needs parts (1984 Toro)

Fellow Olds enthusiats:

While at the Olds dealer today getting my silicone grease and various other 
parts, the 
service manager comes up to me and asks me for my help. (they all know I'm a 
Toro freak)

He takes me to a 1984 Toronado Caliente that has been whacked but good on the 
right 
side. It used to be a cream puff, now its just plained creamed!! However, it 
is fixable 
and the owner evidently has good insurance allowing them to put it together 
again.

The manager explains to me that they have all the parts except for the 
following which 
are no longer available from GM.

Right side lower door molding and corresponding rear quarter molding.

part numbers:

12112 20499039 MLDG  Discontinued Jan '95
08304 20499041 MLDG  Discontinued Sep '92

As these are specific to the Caliente model (84-85) these are rather hard to 
find. 

I don't expect to find any NOS of these parts, but if anyone knows where there 
is one in 
a boneyard somewhere in reasonable shape or has knowledge of these parts, 
please let me 
know.

The dealer seems to be in a pickle here, so they may step up to the money or 
possibly 
pay a finders fee.

TIA  (again!)

Greg
- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 11:56:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Insurance Info? 

Fernando,
  I am alloed 2500 miles per year, and you are required to atend one club 
show per year.  You are also required to belong to a classic car club.  I 
don't know about you, but I never put more than 2000 miles per season on my 
'68 442 convert, in fact, I never even drive it unless I can put the top 
down!  If I remember correctly, you live around the Toronto area, so your 
winter are like mine (Buffalo).  You may drive yours more than me though.  A 
saturday and sunday vehicle here.

                                                       Craig Dobbins
>Date:		Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:19:52 -0300
>From:	Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Insurance Info?
>
>Craig Dobbins wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>>   I have classic insurance through J.C. Taylor in PA, $12,000 worth of
>> coverage cost me $110.00 per year, good company.  Many classic vehicle ow
>ners
>> I know go through them.
>> 
>>Yeah, but what well they allow you to do with the car? Can't drive
> it...atleast like I want to.
>-- 
>Regards
>Fernando Proietto
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #299
********************************
 
