To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/04/96 12:32:16 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #256


oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 4 August 1996       Volume 01 : Number 256


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 14:31:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Turbo V8

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> As an aside, came across a strange beastie in the junkyard not too long 
> ago.  A 1976 "Eldorado Fleetwood". Key characteristic was multipoint 
> fuel injected 425 motor. Cool.

WAY Cool!  Anybody know if that'll bolt up / adaptable to our 425s?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 15:06:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Lettering and Graphics

buehner wrote:
> 
> I trust ink jets will work the same?

Sure.  The idea is to be able to feed continuous vinyl and print a easy 
to see pattern on the paper backing.  So you can't use the average laser 
or other sheetfeeder -- unless we're talking SMALL graphics.

> Note about the vinyls, be cautious about colors and qualities.

Yup.  Make sure your using a good quality vinyl.  Something suitable for 
outside signs like 3M products.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 15:08:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Atlanta Bound

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Heading for Atlanta Sunday PM. 
> I miss the one-liners from 66 Toro and Mike already.

I'll save them for you  ;)

   Have fun!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 11:32:55 -0300
Subject: HELP, PLEASE! 

Everyone,
  I asked this question before, but unfortunatly, only recieved one response 
wich was non-helpful at best.  My question was --  is it possible to rebuild 
shocks?  I am buying a set of original spiral shocks (the type that 
originally came with Olds' from about '66-72, with the twisted outer metal 
casing) for my rear end.  I know they need to be rebuilt, if possible.  But 
if it isn't possible to do this, I'm not going to buy them.  So, if someone 
can tell me either way, I'd appreciate it.  Also, does anyone know where I 
could get this kind of work done?  And, if anyone has any either NOS or 
really good condition spiral shocks, I'd like to ask if you would consider 
selling them.  Any help at all would be apprecited.

                                                   Thank you,
                                                    Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 09:57:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Locks 

     Don't I remember seeing a stud kit in either Mondello or Dave Smith's 
     catalog for this purpose?
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Locks
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/2/96 6:58 PM

exhaust manifold bolts would work. Think about the double nuts that are on 
your emergency brake line. It never loosens. Perhaps if you tightened the 
exhaust bolts against a nut on the outside of the manifold they would stay 
put.
     
That's about all the mechanical creativity I've got... 
chris fair
     
     

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 13:40:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 toronado

Reggie:

welcome to the club.  I have a 1967 that is getting back on the road 
after many years storage.  I just saw a 1968 or 1969 in a junk yard that 
is missing the front seat & engine.  It was complete & rust free 
otherwise for $200.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: <clint@boto.netherworld.org>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 20:31:30 -0300
Subject: NY/NJ gathering!!!

Hi All!!!!

There's going to be a gathering of muscle from some of the mailing lists I
belong to and you're all invited.   This is going to happen on the weekend
of August 10th (sorry for the late notice).   People are being invited
from the Impala SS list, the Oldsmobile list, both F-body lists, and the
Monte list.

While there is talk of going to a dragstrip, it looks like more of the
people committing so far are more in favor of a dinner/cruise.  It will
probably happen in the Long Island area, but this could easily change
depending on who'd coming from where.

Email me at z28@access.digex.net and cc your response to JWOLF@morgan.com.

Thanks!
Hope you see some of you
Clint
                      _________
Rocket Boy!         _|_ _\\____|_   '81 Cutlass Supreme, Silver, T-Tops
Clint Thompson       |___//____|    Mods: L69/700R4, GU5, 16x8 IROC rims, 
etc...
clint@boto.netherworld.org          Future: 383LT-1, M21, 4bbl, W-25, etc...

------------------------------

From: Ken <rottin@coil.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 21:52:00 -0300
Subject: J-2 intake

X-Mozilla-Status: 0001
Message-ID: <3203F287.45F4@coil.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 1996 20:44:55 -0400
From: Ken <rottin@coil.com>
Organization: K&D Holland Trucking
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@cnn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: J-2 intake
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A friend of mine has a J-2 Tri power setup off a 1957 Olds 394.
He also has a 6 1-barrel stromberg setup for the same motor.  He 
has offered to let me borrow either setup (wont sell them). The question 
is will either of these 394 setups bolt directly to a 67 425.  If the 
manifolds are smaller could am aluminum plate be machined as a spacer to 
match the ports <my father is a machinist :) >  and if so would it run 
worth a darn?  

Ken
Cleveland, Ohio
1967 442 Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 00:24:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Lettering and Graphics

> > I trust ink jets will work the same?
> 
> Sure.  The idea is to be able to feed continuous vinyl and print a easy 
> to see pattern on the paper backing.  So you can't use the average laser 
> or other sheetfeeder -- unless we're talking SMALL graphics.

Nope.  Inkjet printers "spray" ink onto the paper and therefore will not 
make a traceable pattern.

------------------------------

From: QCRL73A@prodigy.com (MR PHIL A KEANE)
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 04:26:13 -0300
Subject: HELP 

    Howdy,
  I have a 69 Cutlass Supreme w/ 350 Rocket, th350 trans.  Currently 
I am attempting to install Hooker Compition headers, and a 2.5" 
exhaust.  I am having seroius problems with body contact and fitting. 
  What should i do...is it worth just forgeting about the headers???  



                                            Thank You,
                                                  Phil

------------------------------

From: mike <h07@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 04:53:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Rebuilding original Spiral Shocks 

>  I am going to purchase a set of Original spiral shocks for my '68 442, 
>however (of course) they're old and need to be rebuilt.  Is this possible?  
>And if so, does anyone know where I could get this kind of work done?  I've 
>asked around and have gotten answers from "NO" to "YES, but I don't know who 
>would do something like that".  Any help would be appreciated, I think they 
>look sharp under the rear end.

You might check with Apple Hydraulics, 1610 Middle Rd, Calverton, NY 11933
(800) 882-7753.  They advertise that they rebuild spiral shocks in Hemmings.

If you get them rebuilt please let me know how it turns out because I'm
considering getting some rebuilt also.

Mike
'79 Starfire GT
h07@earthlink.net

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 01:19:29 -0300
Subject: 1968 400 C.I. engine 

EVERYONE (BIG PROBLEM AND QUESTION TO ENGINE GUYS, PLEASE READ ALL),
 
   I am a newer owner of a '68 442 convertable.  It has matching #'s (the 
original 400 engine, has auto trans. of course).  My question is to all of 
you:  My engine has 65,750 original miles on it (not really driven at all 
since 1984 and stored in a heated garage).  I want to paint the car next year 
and get it into shape.  Mechanically, everything is sound (for now at least). 
 When I bought it from the original owner 3 months ago (70 year old man), I 
took it home and degreased it; this was the first time the engine was 
degreased in 28 years!!!  It, of course, NEEDS engine and compartment 
detailing;  either the front or rear seals (oil residue on bottom of engine 
back to trans.), and the intake manifold gasket needs replacing (along with 
the heads being done of course -- NEVER been redone).  So here it is -- 
Before the $2-3000 paint job goes on, should I yank the engine and go over it 
totally (bearings, high volume oil pump, new rings or possibly bore 30 over 
with new pistons and rings -- to go along with the head job and gasket job).  
OR, should I just leave the engine in for now, do a in-compartment detail job 
myself, put a oil pressure gague on it under the hood, send the heads out 
(minus the other stuff), and leave the gaskets as is (I have a little burble 
of oil leaking from the very front/middle of my intake, and VERY slow oil 
seepage coming from eith the front or rear seal)?  Nothing has been done to 
this car since it came out of the showroom in 1968, except BASIC 
maintainance, new tires, new wheel cylinders and backing plates.  I only 
drive it on weekends (and not to mention, bought it in N.Y.(out of May 
Hemming's).  I live in Buffalo N.Y., and only drive it from late May to 
September) and when I do a compression check (IF everything is OK), and the 
oil pressure is OK, should I just wait until 90 or 100,000 miles or so before 
totaly taking out the engine?  I've heard it both ways -- "pull it now to 
avoid unwanted wear" and "wait another 30,000 miles or until you lose 
performance, then pull it and do the whole engine then, or else it's a waste 
of time".  I don't know what to do and am very confused on this subject (as 
you can probably tell from the form of this letter!)  If anyone can help me, 
I'd sure appreciate an unbiased opinion.  I'll answer all returns about any 
questions about the car gladly if it will help anybody form a correct opinion 
about my situation.  I'm sick of being tossed back and forth between "pull 
it" and "wait".  I only drive it 1,500 miles per summer season.

                                        Somebody Help Me Please,
                                          Craig Dobbins
                                          1968 (65,700 mile) 442 convertable

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 10:55:49 -0300
Subject: Fwd: 1968 400 C.I. engine 

if the engine is indeed original you definatly need to have the heads
reworked so you can have hardened valve seats installed and pulling the
comlete engine is no big deal once you have the hood removed and a
hoist==after sitting for so long the seals will be hardened and a basic
replacement of the seals and gaskets and maybe the oil pump while your in
there is a good idea==if your compression checks ok and the pistons look ok
you might be all set or you can go one step further and check your mail and
rod bearing clearance with plastigauge just to make sure.
good luck==sounds like a nice one!
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-04 04:24:39 EDT

EVERYONE (BIG PROBLEM AND QUESTION TO ENGINE GUYS, PLEASE READ ALL),
 
   I am a newer owner of a '68 442 convertable.  It has matching #'s (the 
original 400 engine, has auto trans. of course).  My question is to all of 
you:  My engine has 65,750 original miles on it (not really driven at all 
since 1984 and stored in a heated garage).  I want to paint the car next year

and get it into shape.  Mechanically, everything is sound (for now at least).

 When I bought it from the original owner 3 months ago (70 year old man), I 
took it home and degreased it; this was the first time the engine was 
degreased in 28 years!!!  It, of course, NEEDS engine and compartment 
detailing;  either the front or rear seals (oil residue on bottom of engine 
back to trans.), and the intake manifold gasket needs replacing (along with 
the heads being done of course -- NEVER been redone).  So here it is -- 
Before the $2-3000 paint job goes on, should I yank the engine and go over it

totally (bearings, high volume oil pump, new rings or possibly bore 30 over 
with new pistons and rings -- to go along with the head job and gasket job).
 
OR, should I just leave the engine in for now, do a in-compartment detail job

myself, put a oil pressure gague on it under the hood, send the heads out 
(minus the other stuff), and leave the gaskets as is (I have a little burble 
of oil leaking from the very front/middle of my intake, and VERY slow oil 
seepage coming from eith the front or rear seal)?  Nothing has been done to 
this car since it came out of the showroom in 1968, except BASIC 
maintainance, new tires, new wheel cylinders and backing plates.  I only 
drive it on weekends (and not to mention, bought it in N.Y.(out of May 
Hemming's).  I live in Buffalo N.Y., and only drive it from late May to 
September) and when I do a compression check (IF everything is OK), and the 
oil pressure is OK, should I just wait until 90 or 100,000 miles or so before

totaly taking out the engine?  I've heard it both ways -- "pull it now to 
avoid unwanted wear" and "wait another 30,000 miles or until you lose 
performance, then pull it and do the whole engine then, or else it's a waste 
of time".  I don't know what to do and am very confused on this subject (as 
you can probably tell from the form of this letter!)  If anyone can help me, 
I'd sure appreciate an unbiased opinion.  I'll answer all returns about any 
questions about the car gladly if it will help anybody form a correct opinion

about my situation.  I'm sick of being tossed back and forth between "pull 
it" and "wait".  I only drive it 1,500 miles per summer season.

                                        Somebody Help Me Please,
                                          Craig Dobbins
                                          1968 (65,700 mile) 442 convertable

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 12:16:19 -0300
Subject: RE: Fuel injection

I have in my possesion Dick Millers new system but have not had the time to 
install it yet. When I do I'll let you know how it went.

- ----------
From: 	Chris Fair[SMTP:ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com]
Sent: 	Friday, August 02, 1996 9:01 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Turbo V8


Chris,
Sounds like your turbo 455 customer better check with Gale Banks in the valley
down in LA. I believe custom turbo systems are their specialty. While we're
on the topic of exotic induction....

Does anyone have experience with the Holley 900 cfm fuel injection system on a
BB olds? Was thinking this would be pretty cool and good for power and 
environment
at once. I mean, assuming a closed loop system.

Has anyone ever home brewed a multipoint fuel injection system on a BB olds? 
What parts and results were acheived? Cost? Hmmm....


As an aside, came across a strange beastie in the junkyard not too long ago. 
A 1976 "Eldorado Fleetwood". Key characteristic was multipoint fuel injected
425 motor. Cool.

cf

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 12:30:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 1968 400 C.I. engine

Craig,
I can only give my opinion, but , that is low milage on the engine. It 
probably 
doesn't need a rebuild. Unless you just need to spend $1000 I would pull the 
engine, reseal and paint it. While its out, you can detail the engine 
compartment.
While I had the engine out I would probably replace the oil pump, water pump, 
and fuel pump.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #256
********************************
 
