To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	08/28/96 08:29:10 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #282


oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 28 August 1996     Volume 01 : Number 282


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 23:15:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Couple of things

> The #6 heads are stock for a 1970 350; they are small-chamber, good-flowing
> sb heads w/o hardened exhaust seats. They are part of the desireable 5-6-7
> family of heads 
> if the compression test comes out good and even, and she has good oil
> pressure, then just change the gaskets & oil pump, and drop her in as-is!
> I will most likely tear it down anyway. The car had a collection of oil 
bottles under the hood and in the back seat. I am assuming it burns oil.
Perhaps because the heads were redone and not the rings.
> Excellent basis for a mild street motor; with a slightly hotter cam and a
> 4-bbl, you'd have your goal of 275hp (possibly even 300hp) with no problem.
> Hey, I'd actually make a trip up there for a right-front fender and that
> gauge package; what's the number of the place?

The number of the yard is (603) 585-6601. The person to talk to is Nick. 
He is very hard to get a hold of. Someone will usually answer the phone but
they don't do prices etc only take mesgs. I go there most every Sat and I will
try and get the years of the Toros. 
> 

 
> of interest, I've got a EGR iron 4-bbl for trading that would work in your
> car (if emissions is important to you, and you don't want to spring the $170
> for an Edelbrock Performer Olds 350 intake).

I have an Edelbrock alu manifold already. Was thinking of buying the matching 
cam
to go with it. 


> - Bob Barry
> - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
> - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 20:51:53 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

Yeah, I kept forgetting to ask this here, but now's as good a time as any:
          
I used to be able to get AC-Delco motor oil at either 
Trak Auto or K mart here in the Chicago area, and most 
likely other stores as well but those two are within 
short driving distance of my place. Within the past 
couple of months the supply seems to be drying up...

          I don't know if this is related, but I remember reading that 
          GM had spun off AC-Delco as a separate company (note all the 
          new AC-Delco ads which _do not_ show the GM logo anymore).  
          This is apparently a part of GM's new corporate philosophy 
          to get back to its roots (ie, car manufacturing) and to spin 
          off anything unrelated to the core business.  Witness the 
          sale of EDS and the rumors of Hughes Aircraft (my former 
          employer) being on the block.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 20:17:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifters -Reply 

Joe, while you're at it, could you fax those to me, too?  I've got a '72
Cutlass Supreme that I want to install a Dual Gate into...  Thanks.  The
number is (801)628-9756.

- -Blaine

>>> <JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com> 08/27/96 05:47pm >>>
           service manual for 70-72 will detail this - I can fax you copies of 
           the relevent pages if you send me your fax number.
       
          
          

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 12:44:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Headers for 67 Cutlass

At 07:05 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:

>       NO NO NO...First of all, there is no such thing as a 67 Olds 350 
>       (it was a 330 that year),

Duh, I knew that; REALLY, I did!

>       but more importantly, the two motors 
>       are completely different dimentionally.  Block, heads, internal 
>       dimentions, port size, spacing, and location, etc.  This isn't 
>       Ford or Chrysler where all car lines use the same engine.  In the 
>       60s, each GM car line used proprietary engines. 

I thought probably the BOP group used one engine and C*evy used
another...guess not.


>        That's what we're here for.

Thanks, Joe!
        
>        Joe Padavano
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 20:34:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifters

Bryce,
If you already have the console cut for the dual gate, just put it in. Sure 
better have the correct cable or it won't work.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 21:23:28 -0300
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

Chris,
	I remember you saying that this was offered by Comp.Cams . Do you have 
=
a part no for this=20
kit?=20

Sorry no I order from Canadian High Perf as mentioned previously and =
they don't list a Comp cams part #

Second, are you supposed to specify the push rod length or the year? =
Reason asking, is=20
because I have #5 heads on my '72 350. Is there any difference between =
the rocker surface area on=20
#5 and #7 heads. If you get to specify the length then thats no problem =
the size is the size, but=20
if they want a year then I may have to give them 1968, the year of the =
#5 heads instead.

Firstly all Olds rockers are the same size. Secondly you have to specify =
the length when you order and the best way to do that would be with a =
pusrod checking tool. The most practical thing to do in this case would =
be to order the kit without the pushrods then once the new rockers are =
installed you check the correct pushrod length with your tool and order =
the pushrods which are usually fairly cheap. the reason that there is no =
set length is that it will very with size of cam, amount milled from =
head or block, brand of lifters, etc.
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 21:51:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!!

> << seriously....   i'm interested and available and 22 if you know of any
>  single, attractive, intelligent females....  a picture of the olds or
>  her toothbrush is optional!  --joe ferrero >>
> 
> Hey, where's Peg????  She seems to fit this description.


I'm right here . . . . flattered that you thought of me . . . . I even
have one of those cool toothbrushes with the blue indicator bristles!
(And a coupla spiffy Oldsmobiles to boot.)   What a catch, eh???   :)

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:04:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!!

> She's a young woman with TWO Cutlasses, 20-25, ?????????
> 
> Peg! Yo Peg, where are you??????????


I'm here, just back from Pittsburgh for a few days.  Gee, I'm glad I
didn't unsubscribe while I was gone; I woulda missed all this stuff!
In relation to the Cutlasses, the grey one won a trophy in the beater
class at Nats, although I have to say that the car who took first deserved
it.  For those of you who didn't make it to the show, he has to open his
trunk with a screwdriver.  If that doesn't work, he can always reach up
under the quarter panel to pop it!  I am pleased to say that Grey Mine
(its name, for those of you who haven't seen my babies on Bryce's page)
earned a whopping 50 points out of 1000.  Pretty good, eh???

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:12:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Tach on '84 H/O

Don't feel bad, my 80 442 redlines while it idles and buries the tach with a
little push of the gas. If I didn't know any better this car could rev past
10,000:) 

At 04:03 PM 8/27/96 -0300, Tom Waldron wrote:
>
>The tach on my '84 H/O is reading too high. Is there any way I can adjust   
>it to where it should be? It's a little unnerving to be red-lining at   
>60mph.
>
>Tom Waldron  tomw@harborside.teleres.com
>'84 H/O  
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 IROC Z/28...............salvage yard special
1980  4-4-2 W-30.............1 of  886       OCA#027572
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25...1 of 2535  H/OCA#0278A
Just what the doctor ordered....those awesome W-Machines.

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:50:27 -0300
Subject: Oil Debate 

My 455 has recently changed from 10-30 valvoline to 20-50. Much better oil
pressure on warm days and when the motor has been running a while. Also
higher pressure when cold. I think the switch was a good one. 

My 2,800 lire
chris fair

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:51:33 -0300
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

The applicable Comp Camps part numbers are 1441-KIT for smallblocks and 
1442-KIT for bigblocks.  It was a pain when I ordered my pushrods because 
no major warehouse has them in stock but then again I used the ones that 
were supposed to come with the kit.  I had to order from Comp Cams direct 
and they charged me 70 bucks!

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:53:31 -0300
Subject: Differentials 

I have a big olds and haven't yet got good info. on whether or not anythign
swaps with A bodies. Anybody know. Anyway there were Type O and Type P reard
ends on the 66 big cars and I'm hunting for a 3.08 or 3.23 to replace the 
freeway gears in my 98 now. I think I've got a 2.56 or 2.73 in there now. 

Any comments on what parts, at a minimum, I can swap? I'm thinking ring
and pinion and carrier, but what else do I have to worry about?
thanks
cf

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:20:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Related!!!

Peg O'Connor wrote:
> 
> > 
> > Peg! Yo Peg, where are you??????????
> 
> I'm here, just back from Pittsburgh for a few days.  Gee, I'm glad I
> didn't unsubscribe while I was gone; I woulda missed all this stuff!
> In relation to the Cutlasses, the grey one won a trophy in the beater
> class at Nats, although I have to say that the car who took first deserved
> it.  For those of you who didn't make it to the show, he has to open his
> trunk with a screwdriver.  If that doesn't work, he can always reach up
> under the quarter panel to pop it!  I am pleased to say that Grey Mine
> (its name, for those of you who haven't seen my babies on Bryce's page)
> earned a whopping 50 points out of 1000.  Pretty good, eh???
> 
> 
> peg


Peg:

Your Oldsmobiles have about as much class as my toothbrush.  They are 
fun though no matter what the condition.  I am a little like 
Vice-president Gore.  If I close one eye, cock my head just right, & 
squint a little, they all look new again.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:31:41 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

At 03:18 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
>I read that, too, but I'm not convinced. We do a lot more cold starts and
>short trips than those taxis. 7K oil changes may be fine for those taxis
>(at least, long change intervals are probably the least of the taxi problems)
>but not for private cars.
>
>Someone else complained in the reader letters column of the following issue,
>now on sale, about how their test didn't really resemble common use of the
>oil in non-taxi conditions, and they gave what I thought was a rather lame
>reply about how hard acceleration and long idling periods should also wear
>out an engine the way frequent cold starts could.

I have to agree with you Andrew.  Taxi cabs must run close to 24 hrs a day
without shutting the engine off.  The most engine wear occurs during the
first 30 seconds of starting an engine because of little or no oil in the
high wear areas because its sitting in the oil pan.  You also need some 600
rpm (I think its close to this number) to get the oil pumping through the
system and the starter does NOT turn anywhere close to that.

>>I also read in another article once that oil never really
>>breaks down if it's kept clean -- it only get contaminated.
>
>What, theory being that if it's translucent, it's good? There's a bit more
>to it than that, IMHO; there are additives to consider, how long they last
>before degrading or wearing out, etc.
>
>Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
>Datalogics, Inc.
>441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

Yeah, that goes along the same line as "If its clear (clear dish soap, clear
underarm deodorant etc.), then it's gotta be environmentaly friendly"

Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 22:31:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifters 

At 06:40 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
>72 Cutlass convertible with console and regular automatic shifter...
>What is involved in converting it to a Hurst dual gate? I think this would
>be an easy conversion, anyone ever do one?
>
>       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
>'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
>           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

A friend of mine did this with his '71 Cutlass Supreme.  Your existing
console has some perforations were the shifter should go and needs to be cut
in those areas.  The Chassis Service Manual shows were this is but you can
probably see it from underneath.  You can use your existing top plastic
woodgrain piece but it needs to be cut were the front of the dual gate
chrome top plate meets.  In effect you will cut this plastic piece in half
and only keep the front half.  You also need a dual gate shifter cable which
is about an inch longer.  If you have a TH350 then you also need to get or
fabricate a different bracket on the tranny where the shift cable links up.
The TH400 can use the existing linkage.  You need different support brackets
(front and rear) for the dual gate shifter and these are important because
the front one holds the shifter cable in place.  Also, both these brackets
are needed to ensure that the shifter is bolted in the right place.  The
light (under the P-R-N-D-2-1) that you have in the console now will have to
be relocated into a separate metal (painted white) holder that is located
under the dual gate shifter.  This piece is very difficult to find (I was
lucky that I had an original in mine).  This is not a crucial piece but
makes a nice finish.  There are two ways to do the neutral safety switch.
1) The neutral safety switch which is probably located behind your existing
shifter must be changed to the dual gate neutral safety switch or it will
not function. The dual gate one has an extra long linkage.  A neutral safety
switch from a dual gate is also very difficult to find and expensive.  2)
You can use a column shift neutral safety switch with clips which is easy to
find and will never be noticed because it sits up under the dash on top of
the steering column.  You will find that there are some conectors already
near that area for a column shift car.  I forget the wire colors but I think
2 green and 2 purple??  Anyways, one pair is for the reverse lights and the
other is for the Park and Neutral starting on the switch. The other leads
going to your console for the console lights can remain.
I hope this helps...
 
Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 00:21:18 -0300
Subject: Re: More on my fubar 350 R46SX 

The problem with points is that they start to flutter at 4000RPM so 
then you have a power loss.  I made the change over with a stock
455 and went from 15.6's to 14.9's in the quarter.  First thing I 
do when I buy a pre 74 455 or 350 is to toss the point distributor.

I have kept a 69 and 70 W-31 point distributors with the correct
numbers and you know nowbody wants to buy them.  So stay 
with the HEI.  When using R46SX AC DELCOS the book says to 
gap them at .080 but try .060 it does make a difference in power
with no harmful causes to the engine or distributor.  Trust Me
personal experience.


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket 
former owner of 
70 SX
(2) 72 442'S
78 Cutlass Supreme
(2)  71 Supreme's
90 Quad 442
and have still another 72 W-30 4sd with X in the vin

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 00:45:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Vent cover and hood questions (98 1964 4DHT Holiday sports sedan)

> Yes, PCV was standard starting in '63.  The '63 dealer facts books shows a
> photo of this system from the side.  Shows the small vacuum line going up
> under the air cleaner, possibly to the carb.  Book says "Unlike similar

	*snip*

	Just as a note, on my '60, there is a thing that attaches to the 
back of the block for crank case breathing, that originally (as far as I 
know) had some sort of "J" tube that just fed the atmosphere thoes 
fumes.  It was actually missing when I bought the car, so all kinds of 
nasty crud had basically plugged the thing.  So much for emissions 
control!  :)  After I put the engine together, I found a big gromet, and 
a pcv valve that fit the hole originally intended for the tube, and ran a 
hose up to the air cleaner.  Right now it's a chrome open element unit, 
but the air cleaner that came with the car had holes in the sides like 
one could attach there.  Who knows...that air cleaner probibily dosn't 
even go with the car.

>  >   I have removed the ventile covers and painted them
>  >   BLACK after hours of cleaning. I really miss that
>  >   sand-blowing machine I used to have.....
>  >   There is no problem in painting them again with
>  >   the correct colour; the only problem is, WHAT
>  >   COLOUR. The covers had a silver paint on them
>  >   and I'm sure that was not the original colour.
>  
>  Hmmm, if you've got the 394 V-8, would your engine orignally be green?
> 
> No, only the low compression 394's are green.  The high compression 394's are
> red.  The high compression engine was standard in the 98 and the Super 88.
>  Low compression engines were standard in the Dynamic 88, with the high
> compression as an option.  Jetstar 88's used the F85 330 engine.

	Actually, in 1959, and 1960, *all* 394s were green.  The 371 should 
be gold.  But, yea that red sounds right.  I've seen it on a couple 
'62s.  

	On a completly different note, yesterday I was in the local K-mart 
browsing the mens jeans, when I spotted something on a label that looked 
strikingly familiar...It was an Oldsmobile on the tag of a pair of "Power 
Blues" jeans that looked an awful lot like that '54 in the owners 
registery (forget whos)...right down to the plate that says "BLUES"!!  
Weird.  Almost enough to make you wonder if someone did'nt steal the idea 
from him....do I smell royalties blowing his way?  ;)

	Anyway, just my 2 bits for the day...
		
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 03:23:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil Debate

> My 455 has recently changed from 10-30 valvoline to 20-50. Much better oil
> pressure on warm days and when the motor has been running a while. Also
> higher pressure when cold. I think the switch was a good one. 

It's also a good switch if your oil pump is going bad, as mine is.  I put
20-50 in it all the time, which seems to give better lubing between parts
and more protection.  Also seems to slow down the rate of oil loss.

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:27:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifters

I havn't actually done a conversion to a dual gate even thoufg my 
cardoes have the console shifter. When I had my interior apart I had a 
chance of obtaining one, the shifter only but I chose not to given how 
difficult it is to find the top plates. However, someone did show me on 
my car that if I wanted to I would have to redrill out either the shift 
cable hole as the cables are different AND/OR the shifter retaining 
holes due to the shifter being different. This is usually not  a problem 
but rememberthat you will have extra holes in your floor when you're 
done. Be prepared to cover them with something, like floor putty or 
similar.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 18:31:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

Chris,
	I'm in the process of making that pushrod checking tool right now. 
Havn't quite started but 
I know what I have to do. If you don't have the Comp. Cam part no. then do you 
have the Canadian 
High Performance product no. I'm really interested but I don't what to get 
something I don't want.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 09:59:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Couple of things 

>The car had a collection of oil bottles under the hood and in the back
>seat. I am assuming it burns oil.

Excuse me, but I'd like to nominate this for Understatement of the Week.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 10:01:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifters 

>You can use a column shift neutral safety switch with clips which is easy to
>find and will never be noticed because it sits up under the dash on top of
>the steering column.  You will find that there are some conectors already
>near that area for a column shift car.  I forget the wire colors but I think
>2 green and 2 purple??  Anyways, one pair is for the reverse lights and the
>other is for the Park and Neutral starting on the switch.

If you got the colors right above, I'm 95% sure that the green (probably a
light shade) would be for backup lights and the purple would be for starter
interlock.

>The other leads
>going to your console for the console lights can remain.

Those would be gray.

>I hope this helps...

Ditto.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 10:04:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>>I used to be able to get AC-Delco motor oil at either 
>>Trak Auto or K mart here in the Chicago area, and most 
>>likely other stores as well but those two are within 
>>short driving distance of my place. Within the past 
>>couple of months the supply seems to be drying up...
>
>I don't know if this is related, but I remember reading that 
>GM had spun off AC-Delco as a separate company (note all the 
>new AC-Delco ads which _do not_ show the GM logo anymore).  

Yes, I got some junk mail about their new Rapidfire spark plugs
and noticed the new logo. I like the old one better.  :-)

BTW, the AC-Delco oil I'm talking about is not to be confused with
"Goodwrench" motor oil which you can supposedly get at the dealer.
Personally I've never seen a bottle, although I think I came across
a picture of one in the owner's manual or someplace...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 07:21:42 -0300
Subject: Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>Date:		Thu, 29 Aug 1996 10:21:19 -0300
>From:	Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: OIL and LUBES -Reply
>
>At 01:43 PM 8/27/96 -0300, you wrote:
>>Andrew,
>>Quaker State coating the engine with a waxy 
>>substance (I can't remember exactly what they (HE - The guy that wrote
> the 
>>letter) called it.  But it was the same stuff that is used to seal fruit 
>>preserves in jars,
>
>Paraffin wax??
>
Yep, That's the stuff!

       Craig Dobbins


- --
>Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
>dpauliso@metrolink.net
>
>

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 11:34:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>Yes, I got some junk mail about their new Rapidfire spark plugs
>and noticed the new logo. I like the old one better.  :-)

I called Western Auto the other day to price some rapidfires... I was told
they arent being manufactures for Olds engines. I EVEN asked if I could get
'em for newer engines like the 307. No dice. Isnt this some kind of
discrimination?



       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 10:39:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>I called Western Auto the other day to price some rapidfires... I was told
>they arent being manufactures for Olds engines. I EVEN asked if I could get
>'em for newer engines like the 307. No dice. Isnt this some kind of
>discrimination?

Yeah, maybe we can sue somebody!

Seem to recall someone here mentioning that there's only four or five
ranges available at the moment, presumably for _the_ most common engines.
I've been meaning to try and get some for my wife's car, so I may learn
more about the Rapidfires Real Soon Now.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 07:51:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

>Date:		Wed, 28 Aug 1996 10:04:24 -0300
>From:	"Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply
>
>>>I used to be able to get AC-Delco motor oil at either 
>>>Trak Auto or K mart here in the Chicago area, and most 
>>>likely other stores as well but those two are within 
>>>short driving distance of my place. Within the past 
>>>couple of months the supply seems to be drying up...
>>
>>I don't know if this is related, but I remember reading that 
>>GM had spun off AC-Delco as a separate company (note all the 
>>new AC-Delco ads which _do not_ show the GM logo anymore).  

Yea, but I just installed new AC-Delco spark plugs in mine about 2 months 
ago; looked like the same old GM AC-Delco box and plugs to me?

>Yes, I got some junk mail about their new Rapidfire spark plugs
>and noticed the new logo. I like the old one better.  :-)
>
>BTW, the AC-Delco oil I'm talking about is not to be confused with
>"Goodwrench" motor oil which you can supposedly get at the dealer.
>Personally I've never seen a bottle, although I think I came across
>a picture of one in the owner's manual or someplace...
>
>Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
>Datalogics, Inc.
>441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473
>
>

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 08:46:04 -0300
Subject: Shifter Plate on '68 442 Floor Shifter(POP Metal) 

Hi all,
  I was just wondering if anyone could give me a little assistance here 
(again!).  On my '68 442, I have the automatic floor shifter.  At the base of 
the shifter post is a chromed pop metal plate (approx. 1.5 feet by 6 inches - 
rectangular shaped just like everybody elses').  When I store the car in 
about a month, I want to pull this plate off to have it rechromed over the 
winter.  I can see where the screws are on the sides that need to be removed 
in order to do this, but how do I get the plate past the shifter stick (big 
wooden ball on top)???  Are there screws below the plate which attach the 
shifter stick that can be removed in order to pull the entire stick off, 
which would then free up the pop metal plate?  Thought I'd ask before I 
tried, seeing as how there is apparently quite a few of us here who know a 
bit about shifters (lots of Dual-gate postings recently).

                                                   Thanks,
                                                    Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 05:37:04 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: OIL and LUBES -Reply 

     I went through that a few months ago at Napa looking for some for my 
     307.  They make R-46TSX which they tried to sell me, which are the 
     tapered seat plugs, rather than gasket type.  They went back and found 
     a listing for the correct plugs that says the part number and that 
     Rapidfire's exist, but they can't get them, don't know who can, and 
     every other place I've tried gives me the same story.  I gave up.
     
     Sometimes it's hard enough to find just plain old AC R46SX plugs.  
     Most places I check don't have 'em but can order them.  I got the last 
     set off the shelf from the local parts store.  From the look of the 
     box they've been there for many many years!
     
     FWIW, I try to stick with the AC plugs too.  I've had two autolites 
     physically fall apart on me (but they seem to work okay when they're 
     in one piece), bosch's fouled after a while, and NGK's ran rough and 
     started hard.
     
     It's a conspiracy I tell ya!
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/28/96 7:49 AM
     
I called Western Auto the other day to price some rapidfires... I was told 
they arent being manufactures for Olds engines. I EVEN asked if I could get 
'em for newer engines like the 307. No dice. Isnt this some kind of 
discrimination?

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 08:50:29 -0300
Subject: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference) 

Hi,
  With all of this talk about Rapidfire Plugs, I had just one question.  What 
makes these plugs better than regular AC-Delco or Autolite plugs.  I mean, if 
they're anything like the Splitfire's, then I have to say I have doubts about 
them - especially for the price they're probably asking.  Here's my attitude 
on "Newer" car products that are supposed to be "Better" - Look at racing 
guys like Dale Earnhardt (spelling?) and others.  You don't see them using 
any special plug; just regular plugs, and for another example - oil filters.  
Fram has a new filter out that costs almost $11.00; it has the same additive 
in the filter that is in slick 50 and Duralube.  If those guys are running 
engines that are worth more than my entire car, don't you think they'd be 
using Duralube (or whatever) and the special plugs (platinum or 
Rapid/Splitfire's).  That's just my opinion I guess, but those guys choose 
what autoparts to use (i.e. Tires).  They have so many sponsers wanting them 
to use their products that they can pick and choose, and I'd think they'd 
choose what works best.  Oh well, just my 2 cents anyway.

                                                      Craig Dobbins.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 11:58:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifter Plate on '68 442 Floor Shifter(POP Metal) 

>I can see where the screws are on the sides that need to be removed 
>in order to do this, but how do I get the plate past the shifter stick (big 
>wooden ball on top)???  Are there screws below the plate which attach the 
>shifter stick that can be removed in order to pull the entire stick off, 
>which would then free up the pop metal plate?

Don't think so. (You could try putting the car on display at the next
Chicago Auto Show; some moron will have the knob off for you within
five minutes.)

Check where the shaft meets the knob. If there's a hex nut visible,
that may be functioning as a locknut or jam nut; you unscrew that a
little bit away from the knob, then unscrew the knob.

On newer models, particularly those with a T-handle and/or pushbutton 
release, the knob is held on by a large U-clip which slides into a 
slot on the front base of the knob. Look at the front edge near the 
bottom, and if you find a slot there with the head of a clip visible, 
pull it straight out with needlenose pliers or a small flatblade 
screwdriver.

Reassembly is the reverse of above. :-)  Sometimes the U-clip is a
little reluctant to go back in, so you have to jiggle the knob a bit
up or down, or straighten the ends of the clip a bit first.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 13:15:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifter Plate on '68 442 Floor Shifter(POP Metal) 

 >in order to do this, but how do I get the plate past the shifter stick (big
>wooden ball on top)???  Are there screws below the plate which attach the
>shifter stick that can be removed in order to pull the entire stick off,
>which would then free up the pop metal plate?  Thought I'd ask before I
>tried, seeing as how there is apparently quite a few of us here who know a
>bit about shifters (lots of Dual-gate postings recently).

You should be able to unscrew the knob (big wooden ball) on top of the
shifter lever.

       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "BARKER A." <atbarker@mke9.ra.rockwell.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 13:18:37 -0300
Subject: RE: Newsgroups (No Olds content)

Hey guys
I went to the site for mailing list and the address they gave for ford didn't
work.  Does anybody have an address for a ford mailing list.   Sorry, my 
brother
crashed my olds.  I still read the digest list though, olds are great cars.
I'm feeling depressed, I have 4 cars and a motorcycle, none in proper working
condition.  

thanks
Tony (wishing he didn't let his bro borrow the olds) Barker
81 Cutlass (wrecked)
82 Mustang LX (no engine, body is a 90)
81 Mustang (good engine, hit by drunk driver)
70 Buick Skylark ( 350 V8, no brakes)


Dave wrote :

You can search for newsgroups at:

www.cen.uiuc.edu/cgi-bin/find.news


You can search for mailing lists at:

www.liszt.com


Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:49:12 -0300
Subject: W MACHINES (Was:Re: More on my fubar 350 R46SX -Reply) 

>W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
>72 442 W-30 race rocket  former owner of  70 SX
>(2) 72 442'S
>78 Cutlass Supreme
>(2)  71 Supreme's
>90 Quad 442 and have still another 72 W-30 4sd with X in the vin

Where on earth do you find/afford these cars?  I'd give anything if I could
just find a '72 W-30 or 442...

- -BS

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 13:29:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil Debate -Reply 

>It's also a good switch if your oil pump is going bad, as mine is.  I put
>20-50 in it all the time, which seems to give better lubing between parts
>and more protection.  Also seems to slow down the rate of oil loss.

I've been running 10w40 in my 350 for the past 5 years (only about
8,000 miles and 5 oil changes) because I didn't know any better.  As
soon as my engine warms up, I get some serious clicketty-clackin' going
on when I hit the gas.  I've concluded from the discussions here that my
oil weight is the problem (it's about 105 degrees on any given day here
during the summer).  I even looked in my owners manual and it says that
when the temp is over 90 to use 20w50.  Oops!  So anyway, Peg, my
common sense is telling me that if I switch from 10w40 to 20w50 after all
these years, that my oil pump is gonna burn up on me from suddenly
having to pump that thicker oil.  Of course, I'm not sure how an oil pump
works, so I may be wrong...  Anyone?

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:44:29 -0300
Subject: RE: Newsgroups (No Olds content) 

AI'm feeling depressed, I have 4 cars and a motorcycle, none in proper working
>condition.  
[...]
>81 Cutlass (wrecked)
>82 Mustang LX (no engine, body is a 90)
>81 Mustang (good engine, hit by drunk driver)
>70 Buick Skylark ( 350 V8, no brakes)

Hmmm. What if you combined all four into one car? That way you'd get...
let's see... a Cutlass with a Mustang engine, Skylark body, a tendency
to eject the driver in right turns, and no brakes.

Maybe that wasn't such a great idea after all...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:57:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Newsgroups (No Olds content)

BARKER A. wrote:
> 
> Does anybody have an address for a ford mailing list.

Ford
         (send requests to fordnatics-request@lists1.best.com;
           subscribe commands are 
           subscribe fordnatics     
              -and-
           subsingle fordnatics
           the former for digest and the latter for regular)

Ford Bronco (early types)
          (send requests to jgarden@pepperdine.edu)

Ford Escort
         (send requests to philhy@junior.nsm.uh.edu)

Ford Explorer
         (send requests to server@slic.cts.com, command is
            subscribe explorer-l)

Ford Festiva
         (send requests to wd22yl@sun1.wwb.noaa.gov)

Ford Mustang
   the classic mustangs list is for Mustangs through 1973,
   the modern mustange list has ceased operation, and no "official"
   replacement has yet appeared.  nobody cares about the Pinto, er,
   Mustang II, so don't ask.

   classic:
         (send requests to listproc@east.xsis.xerox.com, use listserv
           commands; list name is classic-mustangs)

Ford Probe
         (send requests to majordomo@bh.org, command is
            subscribe ford-probe)

Ford Thunderbird (1955-1966)
         (send requests to gwotel@hooked.net)

The 66 Toro and Mike (whose also stuck with a Lincoln)


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:06:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference)

On 28 Aug 96 at 8:50, Craig Dobbins wrote:
>   With all of this talk about Rapidfire Plugs, I had just one
>   question.  What 
> makes these plugs better than regular AC-Delco or Autolite plugs. 

The tip is shaped like an asterick (sp?) or the *.  I think there are 
about 12 points on there (I forget).

I installed a set of size 5's (new numbering system for RJ123456343x42 or 
whatever it was) about 6,000 miles ago and the car "seems" faster 
and I am definitely getting better gas mileage (about 15%).  I was 
using Bosch Platnums before...

Another .02-

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 13:27:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference) 

>I installed a set of size 5's (new numbering system for RJ123456343x42 or 
>whatever it was) about 6,000 miles ago and the car "seems" faster 
>and I am definitely getting better gas mileage (about 15%).  I was 
>using Bosch Platnums before...

The usual comeback to a post like this when the article in question
is Splitfires (and no, I am _not_ flaming you here!) is to ask what
sort of improvement was seen when new copies of the previous plugs
(Bosch Platinums, in your case) were installed. Obviously there usually
aren't two identical engines available to do this sort of thing. I've
been trying to arrange just such a test with my mother's car and my
wife's car, both of which use the same engine, same year, and in which
I've just installed a new set of regular AC plugs (and cap, rotor and
wires) in my mother's car. My wife's car will get Rapidfires and the
same other components if and when I can find the right Rapidfire plugs,
and if I'm feeling really scientific, after a month or so I'll swap
plugs between the two cars and keep measuring.

The snag here is that both cars are '86 Chrysler K cars, and I'm not
sure yet whether I'm going to find Rapidfires that fit. Wish me luck.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:36:54 -0300
Subject: When to start using Synthetic Oil? 

Now that I have a rebuilt motor, I was pondering using synthetic oil. A few
questions:

* When should I start? It is "broken in", inasmuch as I've driven it a
couple-hundred miles and the rings seem to have seated nicely (no oil
burning/consumption). Should I wait until a thousand miles? Or switch over
during my next oil change at 500 miles?

* Which brand have you had good luck with? Mobil 1 seems to be the most
common/available; is there any major difference between brands?

* How does using synthetic oil affect the length between oil changes? 

TIA

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:36:56 -0300
Subject: Redline Water Wetter: experience/sources? 

I've heard only good things about Redline's Water Wetter coolant additive;
can anyone back this up? 

My 409 Olds runs at about 200-210 degrees most of the time, so I'd like to
bring that down if possible. (it stays this temp under all conditions, even
idling in traffic on a hot day, so overheating is not a concern)

Water Wetter is supposed to increase the cooling efficiency of the coolant,
dropping temps by about 10 degrees. Since the motor is entirely fresh, and
the radiator is a brand-new 3-row unit, and the clutch fan is in good shape
(as is the shroud), I'd think this additive would be the most efficient way
to drop the temps a couple more degrees.

(yes, I know a 4-core radiator, 19" fan, etc. etc. would do the job, but the
budget for more mods is non-existent right now)

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:45:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference) 

At 08:50 AM 8/28/96 -0300, you wrote:

>If those guys are running 
>engines that are worth more than my entire car, don't you think they'd be 
>using Duralube (or whatever) and the special plugs (platinum or 
>Rapid/Splitfire's).  That's just my opinion I guess, but those guys choose 
>what autoparts to use (i.e. Tires).  They have so many sponsers wanting them 
>to use their products that they can pick and choose, and I'd think they'd 
>choose what works best.  Oh well, just my 2 cents anyway.
>
>                                                      Craig Dobbins.

Craig you couldn't be closer to the truth on this one. These guys spend top
dollar to make the cars they drive perform tenths of a second faster than
the other guys, if they could make more power or better performance by using
a particular product you can bet your life they'd be using that product.

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible
     

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:54:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference)

Dave Isho wrote:
> 
> if they could make more power or better performance by using a 
> particular product you can bet your life they'd be using that product.

I agree with both you and Craig on this but don't be so quick to judge 
what's good and bad by what's used in racing.  Many racing bodies 
regulate what can or cannot be used VERY tightly.  (I think Rusty Wallace 
got fined the other day for the wrong underwear.)  Example:  ALL Winston 
Cup cars use Unical gas -- not cause it's better, cause that what they 
gotta use.  (and cause Unical gives it to them).

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:57:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OIL and LUBES -Reply

On 28 Aug 96 at 11:34, Bryceman wrote:
> I called Western Auto the other day to price some rapidfires... I
> was told they arent being manufactures for Olds engines. I EVEN
> asked if I could get 'em for newer engines like the 307. No dice.

Bryceman, 

As I hate to recommend it for something like plugs, call an Olds 
dealer.  They should have better info regarding these and what they 
fit.  AC has started a new numbering scheme using single digits (like 
5).  They did cost me about $4 from the dealer - about the same as 
Pep Boys...

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

> Isnt this some kind of discrimination?

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 00:11:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil Debate -Reply

Blaine,
	do the swtich, use the 20w50 it much superior oil to the 10w40. Don't 
worry about 
the oil pump, if you have seen them you won't worry. Basically, the pump 
consists of two 
large fat gears that that spline into each other along the gear side. Doing so 
it  creates 
a vaccuum and oil is sucked through the pump (gears) and upwards. They look 
like rock 
cruchers, the 20w50 won't burn it out.

- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:18:30 -0300
Subject: [none]

> I have heard 2 conflicting opinions on the use of dry ice in a Cool Can.
> One said don't use dry ice in a cool can because it will freeze the gas line.

I don't think you could freeze the gas in the lines with dry ice, but I don't
have facts to confirm this.  Anybody know where to look up the temperature at 
which gas freezes?  

As for the dry ice, my memory says that it is not significantly colder than 
"regular" (ie H2O) ice.  The main reason to use dry ice is that it is "dry",
ie you don't end up with a water all over whatever it was you were trying 
to keep cold.


- - Travis and the 69 Olds 98 Convertable aka "Tiny"

- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:24:18 -0300
Subject: shop manuals 

Year One has shop manual reprints for $46.  Anyone seen them
cheaper?  I still haven't got my Fusicks catalog...

Thanks,
- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:20:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference) 

an or cannot be used VERY tightly.  (I think Rusty Wallace
>got fined the other day for the wrong underwear.)  Example:  ALL Winston
>Cup cars use Unical gas -- not cause it's better, cause that what they
>gotta use.  (and cause Unical gives it to them).

Yeah, and there is some racedriver on the duralube commercials saying he is
not allowed to use anything like duralube in his race car, but he does use
it in his personal car.

       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:38:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference)

Bryceman wrote:
> 
> Yeah, and there is some racedriver on the duralube commercials saying 
> he is not allowed to use anything like duralube in his race car, but he 
> does use it in his personal car.

No doubt because he's just in love with the stuff.  Money has nothing to 
do with it, blah, blah, woof, woof...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:41:10 -0300
Subject: Re: shop manuals

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> Year One has shop manual reprints for $46.  Anyone seen them
> cheaper?  I still haven't got my Fusicks catalog...
> 
> Thanks,
> -Blaine

Blaine,

I got my 66 Toro shop manual from Fusick. Was 35 bucks about 5 years ago and 
was an 
original in very good shape! I don't know what Mike Fusick gets now, but you 
may wanna 
wait a few days till you get their catalog.

(all of the above)    Sparky    (:

- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:39:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference)

On 28 Aug 96 at 13:27, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> The usual comeback to a post like this when the article in question
> is Splitfires (and no, I am _not_ flaming you here!) is to ask what
> sort of improvement was seen when new copies of the previous plugs
> (Bosch Platinums, in your case) were installed. 

I had a _little_ change - nothing spectacular over the AC's.  I was 
into the experimentation stage, and had replaced the ACs after 10k 
with the Bosch, so I think the degradation of the performance of the 
plug was minimized.  The Bosch did not change in their performance in 
the 60k miles plus they were in there.  I changed them since I:  1) had 
them in for over 60k miles, 2) was hitting 100k miles and wanted to 
see what they (the Bosch plugs) looked like anyways, 3)heard another 
member of this specific list had installed them in his '91 W-41 Quad 
with good results (smoother idle, better response).  

I will say since I have installed them, I am getting between 34.5 and 
38 MPG consistantly on my commute....

> I've been trying to arrange just such a test with my mother's
> car and my wife's car, both of which use the same engine, same year,
> and in which I've just installed a new set of regular AC plugs (and

Weren't you doing this about 4 or 5 months ago (shortly after I did my 
switch)?  I remember this same conversation from that time....

Mike 
'91 W-40 Quad442
Mike

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:01:43 -0300 
Subject: Re: Bucket Seat Q's

>Question #1:
> Does anyone know which cars I can get buckets from that are the same
>as what would have been put in a '72 Cutlass Supreme?

Any A body from '68-72.  Seat cover patterns are different though...

>Question #2:
> I noticed in Year One and other catalogs that they sell bucket mounting
>brackets for doing the bench-to-bucket conversion.  Are these mounting
>brackets the same as what would be in the car that originally had the
>buckets?  Is there some structural difference in the way they were
>mounted that requires the use of these brackets?

Bench seats only have two brackets, one at each end.  Buckets need four.
I think the Year One parts are only the inner brackets and you re-use the
outer brackets from the bench seat.  (I may be confusing this with the holes
in the floor though).

You need to drill the inner holes in the floor (near the tunnel) as the bench
cars didnt have them drilled.

>Question #3:
> Has anyone done a bench-to-bucket conversion using these aftermarket
>mounting brackets?  How'd it turn out?  Does the installation look clean?
>Was it easy?  Does it look different than the original bucket mounting?
>Do they mount firm and stay firm?  Do you wish you had kept the bench?
>=)

I had a '72 cutlass where some previous owner had converted from
bench to buckets.  The seats were solid and from inside the car it
looked like any other bucket seat car.  Underneath was a different
story.  The inner bolts were a obvious tip off that the car had been
converted.

My current ride has the factory, optional bench seat.  I think its
kinda unique and dont plan to change it.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:25:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Newsgroups (No Olds content) 

Ok, I thought this was an OLDSMOBILE mailing line..........

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@EMUVAX.EMICH.EDU
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:36:13 -0300
Subject: Parts for Sale

I have two center consols for the 67-68 two speed auto trans. Both are complete
except the cables. Call Don Del at (810) 227-3086 Mich Thanks

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@EMUVAX.EMICH.EDU
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:38:44 -0300
Subject: Information Needed for 70 Cutlass

Could someone tell me if the heater bypass hose was paintealong with the engin
at the factory.. thanks

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:42:39 -0300
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

Well how about this the number there is 1-800-663-8228

- ----------
From: 	Fernando Proietto[SMTP:proietto@dow.on.doe.ca]
Sent: 	Tuesday, August 27, 1996 5:31 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Re[2]: Cam Stuff

Chris,
	I'm in the process of making that pushrod checking tool right now. 
Havn't quite started but 
I know what I have to do. If you don't have the Comp. Cam part no. then do you 
have the Canadian 
High Performance product no. I'm really interested but I don't what to get 
something I don't want.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 10:36:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil Debate -Reply

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> >It's also a good switch if your oil pump is going bad, as mine is.  I put
> >20-50 in it all the time, which seems to give better lubing between parts
> >and more protection.  Also seems to slow down the rate of oil loss.
> 
> I've been running 10w40 in my 350 for the past 5 years (only about
> 8,000 miles and 5 oil changes) because I didn't know any better.  As
> soon as my engine warms up, I get some serious clicketty-clackin' going
> on when I hit the gas.  I've concluded from the discussions here that my
> oil weight is the problem (it's about 105 degrees on any given day here
> during the summer).  I even looked in my owners manual and it says that
> when the temp is over 90 to use 20w50.  Oops!  So anyway, Peg, my
> common sense is telling me that if I switch from 10w40 to 20w50 after all
> these years, that my oil pump is gonna burn up on me from suddenly
> having to pump that thicker oil.  Of course, I'm not sure how an oil pump
> works, so I may be wrong...  Anyone?
> 
> -Blaine


Blaine:

20W50 should only improve things.  A pump so weak that it dies under the 
strain of a heavier weight oil couldn't have gotten you around the block 
anyway.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@EMUVAX.EMICH.EDU
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:48:51 -0300
Subject: toratioInformation

This past weekend I saw a cutlass Convert(pace car) 70, that had the
reproduction doo. I anot trying to hurt the sales of these, but the appearand
appearance of then was bad. First the vyl was d flat, and theBurl wood was not 
close to the orriginal. Worst off, was the Burl wood did not match the overlays
on the dash. When you looked at it you could realy tell they were not
orriginal. I could see if you realy needed them then they may do, but I
recomend looking for some orriginals or repaintinect your orriginals. I wrote
thibecausseeing reproduction items in a cataloge makes me believe they are 
correct. Only when you then do you realize how correct or incorrect they are...

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 09:18:12 -0300
Subject: Re: 

>I don't think you could freeze the gas in the lines with dry ice, but I don't
>have facts to confirm this.  Anybody know where to look up the temperature at 
>which gas freezes? 

You may find it here:

http://ram.chem.tulane.edu:8000/f-body/trivia/gasoline.html

It's a gasoline FAQ.  I haven't looked through it, but it looks very
complete.  It has headings like "What causes an empty fuel tank" and "How
can I remove water in the fuel tank".  Looks like a good amount of info...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 09:59:34 -0300
Subject: Re: No subject given 

     
I don't think you could freeze the gas in the lines with dry ice, but I don't 
have facts to confirm this.  Anybody know where to look up the temperature at 
which gas freezes?  
     
     Not sure exactly, but you also have to remember that he'll probably be 
     using some sort of race gas, which (I think) has some alcohol and 
     other stuff in it that would lower the freezing point.  If he's that 
     worried, I suggest buying some dry ice and packing it around a 
     baby-food jar of gasoline to see if it freezes.  Cheap test. . .
     
As for the dry ice, my memory says that it is not significantly colder than 
"regular" (ie H2O) ice.  The main reason to use dry ice is that it is "dry", 
ie you don't end up with a water all over whatever it was you were trying 
to keep cold.
     
     . . . or make puddles all over the track, which the race officials 
     (not to mention the guy after you) tend to frown upon.
     

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 09:41:29 -0300
Subject: Re: toratioInformation

At 04:48 PM 8/28/96 -0300, you wrote:
>This past weekend I saw a cutlass Convert(pace car) 70, that had the
>reproduction doo.

Reproduction what??

>I anot trying to hurt the sales of these, but the appearand
>appearance of then was bad. 
>First the vyl was d flat,

I can't tell what that is either (vyl was d flat)...

> and theBurl wood was not 
>close to the orriginal. Worst off, was the Burl wood did not match the 
overlays
>on the dash. When you looked at it you could realy tell they were not
>orriginal. I could see if you realy needed them then they may do, but I
>recomend looking for some orriginals or repaintinect your orriginals. I wrote
>thibecausseeing reproduction items in a cataloge makes me believe they are 
>correct. Only when you then do you realize how correct or incorrect they 
are...
>
Please clarify...it's kind of hard to tell what you're talking about
(something about repro dashes??).

Thanks!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 10:03:23 -0300
Subject: questions & car for sale

Warning:  the car for sale is not an Olds, it's a VW.  My dad's.  Thought
someone here might be interested in it (or know someone who is)  I put it at
the bottom of this post, if you're not interested, don't read it.

Will a heavier weight oil (20w50 vs. 10w40) stop mechanical noises (read:
worn out parts).  My lifters/rocker arms need replacement soon, but in the
meantime, I'd like to quiet them a little.  They're not real noisy, just a
slight ticking every now and then (especially when it's real hot).  Would
switching to 20w50 from 10w40 make a difference?  What about putting in a
straight weight oil, like just 40w or 50w?  Do I need to use a multi-vis
oil?  What are the advantages or disadvantages of using a multi-vis oil? 

Someone posted a procedure for changing from an externally regulated
alternator to an internally regulated one while keeping the old external
regulator and wiring in place (to keep that "original" look).  I thought I
saved it, but I can't find it.  If it's not too much to ask, could someone
repost that?  I'd sure appreciate it!!

*WARNING*  VW for sale below!




>For Sale: 1967 VW Bug.  Location: Palm Bay, Florida
>
>Recently rebuilt 1600DP.  Front disk brakes.  Porsche 914 wheels.
>White/w Black interior.  Solid pan, etc.  De-chromed.  
>Front fenders shaved.
>VDO gauges: Tach, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp., 
>            Cyl. Head Temp., Volt meter.
>New front beam (not lowered).  New battery.
>Seats, Head liner, Carpet all excellent.
>
>Driven daily. 26 mpg
>It aint perfect but it's pretty!!   [Well, for a VW ;) -- DP]
>I'm askin' $4500.00 - offer??
>
>Fred Paulison: 407-676-4280 after 4:30PM EST
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:48:21 -0300
Subject: Not My 455 (oil) 

Craig,
My 455 has not had oil problems but it does burn some. Haven't noticed increase
or decrease since change to 20-50.It might be a litle more sluggish, but I 
hadn't
noticed.
cf

------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:01:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Not My 455 (oil) 

>Craig,
>My 455 has not had oil problems but it does burn some. Haven't noticed 
increase
>or decrease since change to 20-50.It might be a litle more sluggish, but I
>hadn't
>noticed.

For people who have made this change, is it advisable to change back to
10-40 in the winter or is 20-50 ok for winter as well?

       Life, Liberty and the "Hot Pursuit" of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:04:04 -0300
Subject: '70 SX Convertible

In the September JWO that came today I note with extreme interest the 
following:

"1970 Cutlass SX convertible, yellow with black top and interior, AC, PS, 
tilt, PW,, PS, PDL, 455 4V, Auto. $5,900. Mike Izzo. (818) 343-2656."

The name Mike Izzo sounds familiar for some reason. But what I would give 
to have this car if it's in any kind of shape! The 818 area code is 
listed as the Pasadena, California area so that's promising if it's a 
local car, hopefully not much rot. I wonder exactly what you get for 
your $5,900? I'm really not in a position to pursue it now anyway, but 
I'm wondering if anyone here has called about this already? It is my 
dream car (except maybe for the color scheme, but who cares?), but given 
my finances and its location I guess it'll have to stay that way.

BTW, I also note that someone has a '70 dual-gate setup for sale 
(shifter, cable and console), no price. (414) 634-5900. In Wisconsin.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:57:10 -0300
Subject: FW: Bucket Seat Q's

As far as I can tell from the catalog, the year one brackets are not completely
factory correct (missing a few turns and tweaks), but otherwise would not
noticibly different in form fit or function.>Question #1:
> Does anyone know which cars I can get buckets from that are the same
>as what would have been put in a '72 Cutlass Supreme?

>Any A body from '68-72.  Seat cover patterns are different though...

>Question #2:
> I noticed in Year One and other catalogs that they sell bucket mounting
>brackets for doing the bench-to-bucket conversion.  Are these mounting
>brackets the same as what would be in the car that originally had the
>buckets?  Is there some structural difference in the way they were
>mounted that requires the use of these brackets?

>Bench seats only have two brackets, one at each end.  Buckets need four.
>I think the Year One parts are only the inner brackets and you re-use the
>outer brackets from the bench seat.  (I may be confusing this with the holes
>in the floor though).

You were correct !

>You need to drill the inner holes in the floor (near the tunnel) as the bench
>cars didnt have them drilled.

Rear holes only ??

>Question #3:
> Has anyone done a bench-to-bucket conversion using these aftermarket
>mounting brackets?  How'd it turn out?  Does the installation look clean?
>Was it easy?  Does it look different than the original bucket mounting?
>Do they mount firm and stay firm?  Do you wish you had kept the bench?
>=)

>I had a '72 cutlass where some previous owner had converted from
>bench to buckets.  The seats were solid and from inside the car it
>looked like any other bucket seat car.  Underneath was a different
>story.  The inner bolts were a obvious tip off that the car had been
>converted.

On a '68, the rear floorbrace has threaded holes to receive rear 5/16" bolts,
whether it was originally equipped with benches or buckets.  If you were 
careful
to use black anodized bolts, it should not look "unfactory" at all.

I had to remove the factory brackets for the buckets, as I was replacing the
floorpans.  As was mentioned before, the outside brackets are the same forbench
or buckets.  The weld in bucket brackets are spot welded flush (I did mine with
Oxyacetylene gas welding), and only the rear bolt (5/16) must be drilled thru
the floor pan to do the job like GM.  If I did not have the services of a good
weld shop, or did not want to flame the carpeting, I would consider putting the
year one brackets down with a barage of stainless, 1/4" pop rivets, or similar
fasteners.  (Boy, I'm gonna hear it from the purists !!)

Frank Boerger
'68 Cutlass convertible (which I am nearly ready to part out, donate, or
burn.....)

------------------------------

From: Kevin Daly <cosmo@wasatch.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:05:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil Debate

I use Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my 455 boat.  It's better for the harsh 
conditions I run my boat at.  The sudden acceleration and the 5-10 
minutes of 3500-4000 rpm while somone is skiing.  The problem is 
that it goes through about 1 quart of oil per 44 gallon tank of gas.  
I wouldn't think about any thing less.  

Kevin Daly

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> My 455 has recently changed from 10-30 valvoline to 20-50. Much better oil
> pressure on warm days and when the motor has been running a while. Also
> higher pressure when cold. I think the switch was a good one.
> 
> My 2,800 lire
> chris fair

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:11:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Redline Water Wetter: experience/sources? 

try a bottle and put in a 160 thermostat and your temp should
go down.  Also when using this product, run a 50-50 mix
of water and coolant.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:25:54 -0300
Subject: DOT 5 Brake Fluid Conversion

Anyone ever converted to DOT 5 brake fluid using their existing brake 
hardware i.e. not during a rebuild? If so, how do you flush all of the 
old fluid out of the system? I heard that alcohol was used for this but 
that sounds strange to me. If so, how do you get the alcohol out? 

Any positive or negative effects from your personal experience after doing 
the switchover?

Enlighten me, please.... 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 11:44:27 -0300
Subject: Re: questions & stuff 

     First, nobody here has pointed out the down sides to using a heavier 
     weight oil.  Foremost, don't use it during the winter!  If you're in 
     an area that drops below freezing and intend to drive your car during 
     that time, I wouldn't recommend using anything thicker than 10w40.  
     Secondly, a thicker oil might hurt gas mileage and/or power just a 
     tad, since it's thicker the crankshaft has more goop to plow through.
     
     To answer your questions:  Might help, might not.  It will probably 
     quiet down the problem some, but it won't go away.  A straight weight 
     oil like 30w would work fine during fair weather months.  Check the 
     owners manual to see when it recommends a 30w oil.  The only 
     disadvantage I know of to using a multi-vis oil is that the additives 
     required to make it multi-vis don't contribute much to the lubricating 
     properties of the oil.  Therefore, more multi-vis additives means less 
     room in there for the oil itself.  I know some people who have sworn 
     off multi-vis oils for this reason (which I think is taking it too 
     far), or who shy away from extreme multi-vis oils (like 10w40) and 
     only use a narrower range, like 15w30.
     
     To the person who asked about the synthetic oil:  I'm using Mobil-1 
     synthetic in my 307 (70k miles), and I previously used it in my 260 
     (rebuilt new).  I would wait until the next oil change at 2000-3000 
     miles until you switch to synthetic.  I had this problem with the 
     rebuilt 260 and the rings not sealing.  Other than that I'm very happy 
     with the Mobil-1.  During cold weather the oil pressure comes right 
     up, and during long, hot drives the oil pressure doesn't start to drop 
     as much.  Since Mobil-1 doesn't come in very many varieties, I checked 
     the Mobil home page and they say it's okay to mix viscosities.  If you 
     mix two in even proportions you can just average the numbers and 
     that's what you'll have.  While you can extend the oil change interval 
     with synthetic, IMHO if you do so then you're probably negating the 
     other benefits of the synthetic.  IMHO after 3000 miles it's still 
     usable and in better shape than a normal oil would be after 3000 
     miles, but not in better shape than the _new_ normal oil your car 
     would normally have every 3000 miles if you weren't using synth.  
     Clear as dirty oil (mud?), right?
     
     To the person who asked about Red Line Water Wetter:  I'm using it.  
     My temperatures are lower, but I can't say for sure whether the watter 
     wetter is to blame.  I flushed the system and added a cooler 
     thermostat at the same time I used the Watter Wetter.  However, I've 
     never heard a bad review of the stuff.  Some of the guys on the turbo 
     buick list swear by the Watter Wetter and deionized water, with maybe 
     20-30% antifreeze too.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: questions & car for sale
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/28/96 1:51 PM

Will a heavier weight oil (20w50 vs. 10w40) stop mechanical noises (read: 
worn out parts).  My lifters/rocker arms need replacement soon, but in the 
meantime, I'd like to quiet them a little.  They're not real noisy, just a 
slight ticking every now and then (especially when it's real hot).  Would 
switching to 20w50 from 10w40 make a difference?  What about putting in a 
straight weight oil, like just 40w or 50w?  Do I need to use a multi-vis 
oil?  What are the advantages or disadvantages of using a multi-vis oil? 
     

------------------------------

From: Oldsman 71 <Oldsman_71@wow.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:53:38 -0300
Subject: DRIVE BELTS

Does anyone know what brand of drive belts came on my 71 Delta Royale
from the factory?  I have heard many different suggestions: Gates, Goodyear, 
etc..   I need to replace the belts on my car and thought it would be nice to 
get as close to original as possible.

Thank you.
Brad Ross  OCA#026076
1971 Delta Royale

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:59:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs (No Big Difference) 

>> I've been trying to arrange just such a test with my mother's
>> car and my wife's car, both of which use the same engine, same year,
>> and in which I've just installed a new set of regular AC plugs (and
>
>Weren't you doing this about 4 or 5 months ago (shortly after I did my 
>switch)?  I remember this same conversation from that time....

Curses! Somebody who comprehends what they read! I was afraid of that.
Yes, I got as far as getting Mom's car done and she says she's keeping 
track of gas mileage, etc., not that she drives it a whole lot; shortly 
after that I got majorly sidetracked and have not gotten around to doing 
the spouse's Dodge. Was hoping you all would forget that until I had 
something new to report on it...

I'm sorry, I'm going to have to shoot you now.  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Kevin Daly <cosmo@wasatch.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:10:53 -0300
Subject: Lincoln

I saw the Ford Mailing lists, how about a Lincoln list.  My grandpa has a '66 
Lincoln
Continental that I think I'm going to take on as a project.  

Thanks,

Kevin Daly

------------------------------

From: rbishop@iAmerica.net (robert bishop)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:17:13 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 SX Convertible 

>In the September JWO that came today I note with extreme interest the 
>following:
>
>"1970 Cutlass SX convertible, yellow with black top and interior, AC, PS, 
>tilt, PW,, PS, PDL, 455 4V, Auto. $5,900. Mike Izzo. (818) 343-2656."
>
>The name Mike Izzo sounds familiar for some reason. But what I would give 
>to have this car if it's in any kind of shape! The 818 area code is 
>listed as the Pasadena, California area so that's promising if it's a 
>local car, hopefully not much rot. I wonder exactly what you get for 
>your $5,900? I'm really not in a position to pursue it now anyway, but 
>I'm wondering if anyone here has called about this already? It is my 
>dream car (except maybe for the color scheme, but who cares?), but given 
>my finances and its location I guess it'll have to stay that way.
>
>BTW, I also note that someone has a '70 dual-gate setup for sale 
>(shifter, cable and console), no price. (414) 634-5900. In Wisconsin.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
>
>
Greg, if SX Olds are your thing, check out my 71 on Bryceman's owners
registry. It is listed as Robert Bishop's 71 SX Cutlass Supreme.
The 70 conv. sounds like a good choice to me.

rbishop@iamerica.net 

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 18:11:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Redline Water Wetter: experience/sources? 

>try a bottle and put in a 160 thermostat and your temp should
>go down.  Also when using this product, run a 50-50 mix
>of water and coolant.

Really? I thought one of the main points of using Water Wetter was
that it enabled you to use little or no antifreeze (assuming you're
not parking the car in subfreezing weather), and thus the increased
percentage of water made for better cooling, with the Water Wetter
taking care of the anti-corrosion duties or whatever that the
antifreeze would have been responsible for. Just wondering...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@emuvax.emich.edu
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:49:29 -0300
Subject: Re: toratioInformation 

Well I am getting fragmented mailing and lots of noise on my line. I was
talking about the bad quaility of the reproduction door panels.

------------------------------

From: Oldsman 71 <Oldsman_71@wow.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:56:06 -0300
Subject: paint

I need to repaint the air filter housing (just the top) on my 71 Delta.  I am 
looking for paint that will match almost perfectly.  Does anyone have any 
suggestions?

Brad Ross
1971 Delta Royale  (The big green beast)

------------------------------

From: DELPROPO@EMUVAX.EMICH.EDU
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:54:01 -0300
Subject: Phone line/computer noise

:[/3I=qc=z<|M7mRIofG}}/>yWm+^-[zeEO1V+o0y_oyy{w{d7~w6={Sorry for any frnOnM>2Wk


Sorry for any fragmented mail messages I am getting noise on the line and rt
the university computer is crashing:[RvRagn

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 12:52:07 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Redline Water Wetter: experience/sources? 

     That might be how some of it's effects are accounted for, but it's 
     supposed to be a surfactant (sp?).  It basically makes the watter 
     "thinner" and "runnier" and lowers the surface tension.  This lowered 
     surface tension doesn't allow bubbles to form as easly.  When bubbles 
     form they tend to cling to coolant passage walls and radiator walls, 
     wherever one of these tiny bubbles are heat will not transfer very 
     efficiently (since it's transferring from metal to air to coolant, 
     rather than straight from metal to coolant).  I'll have to check on 
     the bottle I have at home, but I think it says you can run straight 
     water with it, but they recommend about 30% coolant for maximum 
     corrosion protection.
     
     Sorry to get off track guys, this isn't strictly Olds related, but 
     seeing how a lot of Olds' with big engines could use cooling help I 
     think it's worth mentioning.
     
     . . . and it's a pretty color too!  Don't be alarmed when you add it 
     too your coolant.  Your coolant will turn slightly orangeish, like 
     it's got rust in it.  It doesn't, that's just what color it is.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Redline Water Wetter: experience/sources?
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/28/96 3:37 PM


>try a bottle and put in a 160 thermostat and your temp should 
>go down.  Also when using this product, run a 50-50 mix
>of water and coolant.
     
Really? I thought one of the main points of using Water Wetter was 
that it enabled you to use little or no antifreeze (assuming you're 
not parking the car in subfreezing weather), and thus the increased 
percentage of water made for better cooling, with the Water Wetter 
taking care of the anti-corrosion duties or whatever that the 
antifreeze would have been responsible for. Just wondering...
     
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431 
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com 
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473
     
     

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 21:26:20 -0300
Subject: Re: DOT 5 Brake Fluid Conversion 

Anyone ever converted to DOT 5 brake fluid using their existing brake hardware 
i.e. not during a rebuild?
          
          I assume DOT 5 is the silicone brake fluid.  I did this to a 
          71 Cutlass over 15 years ago when I switched to fron disc 
          brakes.  I took no special precaution to flush the lines, 
          just running the new fluid through as a part of the bleeding 
          process.  Master cylinder was rebuilt and all rubber hoses 
          were replaced.  Never had a problem in all that time, 
          although this was a very infrequently driven car (the good 
          news is that the silicone didn't absorb water during the 
          time the car sat).
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #282
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