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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #266


oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 14 August 1996     Volume 01 : Number 266


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oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 14 August 1996     Volume 01 : Number 265


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:02:46 -0300
Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise '96

Anyone planning on going to the Woodward Dream Cruise with their Olds,
Saturday the 17th? Maybe we could plan on someplace to meet, if enough
people are interested.

I found a website that has some event info. on the Cruise, check it out.
http://www.gatecom.com/~kathy11/dream.html

Regards,
Brian

1970 442 W-30

- ------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:52:05 -0300
Subject: Fwd: brakes, misc. stuff 

put your foot on the brake pedal then shut off the engine==if the booster is
working properly the pedal will raise slightly


- - ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	dpauliso@metrolink.net (Dave Paulison)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-12 16:52:30 EDT

At 02:00 PM 7/14/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Still sounds to me 
>like you're not getting any power assist.

That's what it feels like, but I was sure the booster was good.  The old one
leaked vacuum, which made the engine miss.  I checked the new one before I
installed it.  It worked, and it doesn't currently leak.

> How much vacuum draw do 
>you get on the check valve?

Don't know; I don't have any way to check it.  If I take the check valve out
of the booster with the engine running, it's suckin' pretty strong...

>And can you compare that to a similar car?

Ummm, nope.  No similar cars at my disposal.  I'm going to replace the front
rubber brake lines next.  They're original (I think).
- - --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

- ------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:56:59 -0300
Subject: Fwd: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement 

if you need a spacer most parts houses will have them in different sizes for
use with a flex fan
- - ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Greg Beaulieu)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-12 18:47:29 EDT

On Sun, 11 Aug 1996, Craig Dobbins wrote:
>   I own a '68 442 convert, all matching #'s, has the original 400 engine.
 I 
> know from experience that these engine's run hot.  I picked up a 7-blade
Olds 
> fan w/clutch (not sure if from a '68 or '70 or '71, but one of those) for 
> almost nothing.  I want to replace my 4-blade with the 7-blade to keep the 
> engine cooler.  Is there anything I should know before I just start 
> wrenching?  Should I leave the origianl clutch in there, or replace the
whole 
> thing or what?  If anyone knows anything about this, please write back to
me, 

Craig,

If it's anything like my '68 350, the clutch fan won't fit. I tried the 
same thing and it fouled on the power steering pump. The clutch fan 
apparently came with the HD cooling or A/C options and had a different 
water pump with a longer neck. Unless you can dummy up a spacer I don't 
think it'll work.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 20:50:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> 
> >   I own a '68 442 convert, all matching #'s, has the original 400 engine.  
I
> > know from experience that these engine's run hot.  I picked up a 7-blade 
Olds
> > fan w/clutch (not sure if from a '68 or '70 or '71, but one of those) for
> > almost nothing.   Is there anything I should know before I just start
> > wrenching?  
> 
> Craig,
> 
> If it's anything like my '68 350, the clutch fan won't fit. I tried the
> same thing and it fouled on the power steering pump. The clutch fan
> apparently came with the HD cooling or A/C options and had a different
> water pump with a longer neck. Unless you can dummy up a spacer I don't
> think it'll work.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu       


Those clutches for the fan come in different shaft lengths.  My toronado 
one is different in length than my 442.  Check the depth you need & ask 
the counterman for that one.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

- ------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 02:17:00 -0300
Subject: Re: M85 and CNG

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996, Dave Paulison wrote:

> >   M85 stands for "Methanol 85%" - it's a mixture of 15% gasoline (for 
> >lubricity which straight alcohol doesn't have) and 85% Methanol.  
> >                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  

> Doesn't methanol have adverse affects on aluminum (i.e. your carb)?
> --
> Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
> dpauliso@metrolink.net

    I don't know for sure, but the only real problem I can see with 
alcohol fuels is that they tend to be rather hydroscopic.  Alcohols in 
general will be rougher on plastic/rubber parts - but I don't think you'd 
see a huge increase in wear on Al parts.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
     "Clinging Tenaciously to the Trailing Edge of Technology"

- ------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:55:55 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement 

On Sun, 11 Aug 1996, Craig Dobbins wrote:
>>   I own a '68 442 convert, all matching #'s, has the original 400 engine.  
I 
>> know from experience that these engine's run hot.  I picked up a 7-blade
Olds 
>> fan w/clutch (not sure if from a '68 or '70 or '71, but one of those) for 
>> almost nothing.  I want to replace my 4-blade with the 7-blade to keep the 
>> engine cooler.  Is there anything I should know before I just start 
>> wrenching?  Should I leave the origianl clutch in there, or replace the
whole 
>> thing or what?  If anyone knows anything about this, please write back to
me, 
>
>Craig,

According to my service manual the 'A' Body (with 8 cyl.) fans were either
6-blade or 4-blade for that motor.  A 18" 7-blade was used on the L-6
engine.  Since the 4-blade fan does not have the clutch, you will actually
get better cooling than with the clutch fan.  This is because the non-clutch
fan is always fully engaged and will constantly keep the rad cooler.
If you want to go with the clutch fan, then you will need to get a pulley
from an A/C or H/D car to replace your existing pulley and you will need a
water pump from the same type of car.  Hope this helps.


 
Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"

- ------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 04:32:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement 

Sorry about that, I meant to say that I have the 5-blade fan on my '68 442.  
It has a clutch on it, and I also have a separate 7-blade with the clutch 
that goes to that one also.  I didn't want to kust try to slap it on, but the 
screw holes seem to match up.  Could I just use the 5-blade clutch and mount 
the seven blade fan to it?  All responses would be appreciated (again!).

                                                        Thanks all, 

                                                         Craig Dobbins
>Date:		Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:55:55 -0300
>From:	Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@Direct.CA>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement
>
>On Sun, 11 Aug 1996, Craig Dobbins wrote:
>>>   I own a '68 442 convert, all matching #'s, has the original 400
> engine.  I 
>>> know from experience that these engine's run hot.  I picked up a 7-blade
>Olds 
>>> fan w/clutch (not sure if from a '68 or '70 or '71, but one of those)
> for 
>>> almost nothing.  I want to replace my 4-blade with the 7-blade to keep
> the 
>>> engine cooler.  Is there anything I should know before I just start 
>>> wrenching?  Should I leave the origianl clutch in there, or replace the
>whole 
>>> thing or what?  If anyone knows anything about this, please write back
> to
>me, 
>>
>>Craig,
>
>According to my service manual the 'A' Body (with 8 cyl.) fans were either
>6-blade or 4-blade for that motor.  A 18" 7-blade was used on the L-6
>engine.  Since the 4-blade fan does not have the clutch, you will actually
>get better cooling than with the clutch fan.  This is because the
> non-clutch
>fan is always fully engaged and will constantly keep the rad cooler.
>If you want to go with the clutch fan, then you will need to get a pulley
>from an A/C or H/D car to replace your existing pulley and you will need a
>water pump from the same type of car.  Hope this helps.
>
>
> 
>Nick DiGiovanni
>Port Coquitlam, B.C.
>1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"
>
>

- ------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 04:42:35 -0300
Subject: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH 

Hello,
  I have a resto question for those of you with experience restoring dashs.  
On my '68 442 (and possibly other year 442's), on the dash, there are circles 
that go around all of the knobs and features on the dash (i.e. - cigar 
lighter, radio knobs, headlight switch).  These circles are little raised 
plastic circles, and the top side of each circle is coated with a silver 
finish.  Some of the silver finish on some of the circles has worn off over 
time.  Does anyone have a good resto tip on how to reapply this silver 
finish.  I've been told to just take a silver permanant marker (by a MOPAR 
friend) and carefully go over the tops of the circles, but I wondered if this 
would be the right way to do it, or if there is a better way.  

                                                          Thanks,
                                                            Craig

- ------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 09:41:48 -0300
Subject: Olds on the little screen 

          OK, so here I am in South Korea (in Taejon, about 150 km
          south of Seoul).  My hotel gets exactly one english language
          TV channel (STAR TV from Hong Kong, a repository of ancient
          American TV shows).  What comes on as the Sunday afternoon
          movie, but the original 2 hour movie for Hardcastle and
          McCormick.  Out of sheer boredom I watch.  Halfway throught
          the movie, two thugs drive up (on TV, that is) in a black
          car with some type of hood scoop (it's a close-up shot, so I
          can't ID the car).  The bad guys get out, rough up the
          heroes, and get chased back to their car - an apparently
          then-new 83 H/O!  H&M give chase in a mid-60s small block
          Vette (this is before they get the Coyote).  Even more
          amazing, the H/O does _not_ get trashed in the ensuing chase
          scene (however the Vette stunt car takes a serious hit to
          the front suspension and fwd body on a jump, only to return
          in concourse condition in the next view).

          Unfortunately, this is as close to an Olds as I got on this
          trip, which is due to end Thursday.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

- ------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 09:09:01 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH

Craig,

Re. the chrome trim on the dash, I've heard the silver paint markers are 
the best bet. I've seen this done and it looks OK. I don't know any other 
way to restore this area. There are places that do plastic chrome plating 
but this one might be impossible due to the fine lines and lettering on 
the dash, and besides you'd have to remove the dash to do it - probably 
not practical.

The only problem I've had is finding one of those paint markers around 
here. Nobody seems to sell them in these parts.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 10:34:49 -0300
Subject: Hurst Heritage books

>I was at the local big swap meet here today and came across a book dealer
>out of Charlotte, NC called Midlife Classic Cars that was selling the Hurst
>Heritage books

Could Jason or anyone else recap what exactly is in these books?

Thanks

- - -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- - -----------------==============================
                                

- ------------------------------

From: "AUVAX7::RILES" <RILES%AUVAX7.decnet@auscam.amd.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 10:43:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Olds on the little screen

I caught a Babewatch rerun and saw a '68 Cutlass Convertible that one of the 
lifegaurds was driving.  It had Cragar mags or somesuch on it.

- - -R

- ------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 13:18:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>      Totalled just because of missing wheels and stereo equipment, or was
>      it wrecked?  Of course the guys are morons, why do you think they
>      resorted to theft in the first place!
> 
>      $8k seems about right, maybe just a bit high for the H/O, depending
>      upon how good of condition it's in.  If it's repainted, did it get new
>      stripes on it too?
> 
>      If he says he has to get rid of it, that's your clue to make him a
>      low-ball offer and wait a few days.
> 
>      Sorry about the loss of your ride, man!
> 
>      Tom L.
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
> Subject: Olds Recovered
> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
> Date:    8/10/96 8:04 PM
> 
> Well they found my olds.   It had no rims, no stereo, no clubs, no
> tools.  But they left the MSD6a, msd wires, acell supercoil, etc..
> Must have been morons, or just wern't thinking.  Well  the Insurance
> guy totalled it, and gave me check for it.
> 
>  While looking for a new ride I found a 83 Hurst/Olds with lighting rods and 
all
> for $8000.00.

How many miles does the 83 H/O have on it for $8000? I recently picked up 
an 83 from the original owner with 9969 miles on it for a cool $15,000. 
Loaded! t-tops, lite gray cloth interior, extra stripe kit complete with 
all logos/emblems, extra bucket seat skin, and a pile of OEM parts he 
bought "just-in-case". So eight grand if it's mint, ain't bad. Remember 
in 1983 only 3001 of those cars were produced, and not to many good ones 
are left I bet.

- - -- 

Bill !                                         _           _       ___
                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition    /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1986 442 The Perfect "10"                /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                              |_|         |_|   |_______|
          
          Visit them at http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest

- ------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 09:49:28 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH 

>These circles are little raised 
>plastic circles, and the top side of each circle is coated with a silver 
>finish.  Some of the silver finish on some of the circles has worn off over 
>time.

I think it's actually chrome, not just silver; black plastic and chrome
edges were real big back in them thar seventies (give or take a bit :-).
I have old clock radios and stereos in my basement that are covered in
that stuff. Don't know exactly how the chrome was deposited on the plastic
but I have not heard of any aftermarket rechroming process; the closest
you could get may be to polish up what chrome remains, then dab on some
silver enamel with a tiny brush to fill in the missing bits. It should
blend in with the surviving chrome. If you can find a silver marker, great.

Second thought: silver enamel is more like a suspension of powder than a
paint, and it's real runny. Might be better to try dipping a small cloth in
the paint, then wipe it gently over the raised ridges. Too much liquid and
it will simply run all over the place. Definitely practice on scrap first.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

- ------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 10:05:32 -0300
Subject: Re: brakes, misc. stuff 

Sending this reply _again_ because it apparently went nowhere yesterday.
Apologies in advance for when it mysteriously pops up again around, oh,
October 23rd...

>To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
>Subject: Re: brakes, misc. stuff
>
>>>Okay, wild-assed guess: Suppose this system has the type of warning light
>>>switch consisting of a piston 
>>                        ^^^^^^
>>Where?  In the proportioning valve?  Or master cylinder?
>
>It would be wherever the warning light wire plugs in... 
>
>>>I think you said you hadn't replaced the
>>>proportioning valve yet; is that where the warning light wire connects?
>>
>>Yes it is
>
>Into the middle of the valve body, by any chance? Half the brake lines on
>either side of it?
>
>Basically you've got a little piston in the middle of a cylinder bore,
>and around the "waist" of the piston is a recessed area in which the
>head of a plunger rests, perpendicular to the cylinder bore. If the 
>piston moves either way in its bore, the plunger is pushed outwards 
>from the recess.
>
>So what's pressing on the piston from either end are both brake systems,
>one at each end. Should one system fail, pressure at that end collapses
>and pressure from the _other_ end shoves the piston off-center. The head
>of the plunger is pressed out of its recess and triggers the BRAKE light
>on your dash. My flaky theory is that the piston is still stuck at one
>end of its bore and is blocking the system that failed at some point in
>the past. Testing to see if there's continuity through the warning light
>terminal to ground through the valve body would be interesting. Hopefully
>it will not be grounded that way; this would indicate that the switch has
>been triggered and the valve may be jammed.
>

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

- ------------------------------

From: bryce_smith@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 11:28:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered 

>>  While looking for a new ride I found a 83 Hurst/Olds with lighting rods
>>and all
>> for $8000.00.
>
>How many miles does the 83 H/O have on it for $8000? I recently picked up
>an 83 from the original owner with 9969 miles on it for a cool $15,000.
>Loaded! t-tops, lite gray cloth interior, extra stripe kit complete with
>all logos/emblems, extra bucket seat skin, and a pile of OEM parts he

Could someone send me the Email address of the guy who originally started
the thread about an 83 H/O he was looking at for $8000. I must have trashed
the original message.

          Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '70 Cutlass Convertible
           Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

- ------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 07:44:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered 

It wasn't a '83 it was a '68 or '69.  I'm the guy that put the reply in about 
it. Sorry for the confusion.
                                                           Craig Dobbins
>Date:		Fri, 12 Apr 1996 13:18:05 -0300
>From:	Bill Gochenour <billg@SJUVM.STJOHNS.EDU>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Olds Recovered
>
>Tom Lentz wrote:
>> 
>>      Totalled just because of missing wheels and stereo equipment, or was
>>      it wrecked?  Of course the guys are morons, why do you think they
>>      resorted to theft in the first place!
>> 
>>      $8k seems about right, maybe just a bit high for the H/O, depending
>>      upon how good of condition it's in.  If it's repainted, did it get
> new
>>      stripes on it too?
>> 
>>      If he says he has to get rid of it, that's your clue to make him a
>>      low-ball offer and wait a few days.
>> 
>>      Sorry about the loss of your ride, man!
>> 
>>      Tom L.
>> 
>> ______________________________ Reply Separator
> _________________________________
>> Subject: Olds Recovered
>> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
>> Date:    8/10/96 8:04 PM
>> 
>> Well they found my olds.   It had no rims, no stereo, no clubs, no
>> tools.  But they left the MSD6a, msd wires, acell supercoil, etc..
>> Must have been morons, or just wern't thinking.  Well  the Insurance
>> guy totalled it, and gave me check for it.
>> 
>>  While looking for a new ride I found a 83 Hurst/Olds with lighting rods
> and all
>> for $8000.00.
>
>How many miles does the 83 H/O have on it for $8000? I recently picked up 
>an 83 from the original owner with 9969 miles on it for a cool $15,000. 
>Loaded! t-tops, lite gray cloth interior, extra stripe kit complete with 
>all logos/emblems, extra bucket seat skin, and a pile of OEM parts he 
>bought "just-in-case". So eight grand if it's mint, ain't bad. Remember 
>in 1983 only 3001 of those cars were produced, and not to many good ones 
>are left I bet.
>
>-- 
>
>Bill !                                         _           _       ___
>                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \
>1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition    /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
>1986 442 The Perfect "10"                /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
>1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
>                                              |_|         |_|   |_______|
>          
>          Visit them at http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest
>

- ------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 12:45:20 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH -Reply 

>The only problem I've had is finding one of those paint markers around 
>here. Nobody seems to sell them in these parts.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
>Canada

Try an Arts & Crafts store.  There *must* be one of those around... What
else would all the Canadian housewives do in their spare time (besides
gabbing on the phone with their girlfriends)?  If you don't have a
specialized Craft store, try the craft/fabric dept. of your local Wal-Mart
equivalent...  Good luck! =-)

- - -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

- ------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 13:02:29 -0300
Subject: Your oppinions, please. 

I've been looking at a '69 Cutlass for a while now and can't decide if it's
worth $2000.  It was completely restored about 7 years ago.  The
interior is starting to show some wear, but not too much.  It could almost
pass for well-maintained original.  The dash is in excellent shape.  The
outside was redone about 5 years ago.  No telling how much bondo is
there (I intend to check, tho).  The paint looks excellent, though I don't
think it's an original color.  It's a dark metallic grey with a black vinyl 
top. 
Was that an original color in 69?  I guess I could check the paint code on
the body tag, eh?  The engine compartment is *very* clean, and the
engine is even the correct color.  The drive train, according to the owner,
has been very well maintained.  Overall, the car is not very far from
being show-worthy.  Here's the kicker:  over 200,000 miles on the
chassis.  Whaddya'll think?  Is a '69 Cutlass with 200,000+ miles on it
worth 2 G's?

Thanks, 
Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

- ------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 12:14:56 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH - Resto Tip 

At 04:42 AM 8/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello,
>  I have a resto question for those of you with experience restoring dashs.  
>On my '68 442 (and possibly other year 442's), on the dash, there are circles 
>that go around all of the knobs and features on the dash (i.e. - cigar 
>lighter, radio knobs, headlight switch).  These circles are little raised 
>plastic circles, and the top side of each circle is coated with a silver 
>finish.  Some of the silver finish on some of the circles has worn off over 
>time.  Does anyone have a good resto tip on how to reapply this silver 
>finish.  I've been told to just take a silver permanant marker (by a MOPAR 
>friend) and carefully go over the tops of the circles, but I wondered if this 
>would be the right way to do it, or if there is a better way.  

The silver finish is actually a type of chrome plating on the plastic and is
very difficult to do.  This is because they were never originally painted on
but chrome plated instead.  Mr.G's in Hemmings (Ph.(817) 831-3501 &
(817)838-3131) advertises as the best rechromer of plastics.  They are very
expensive but claim that what they do will look like original.  I gave them
a call regarding a small piece of plastic about a foot long with two small
chrome strips on it and they quoted me $80.00 US not including S&H.  I told
them I would ahhh.... think about it.

There is no such paint that is chrome paint even if it is labeled that way.
"Chrome" paint looks like silver when it is applied.  Actual chrome has a
mirror -like quality that can't be reproduced with paint.  However the next
best thing for doing what you are asking is to use a silver paint marker.
It looks really good from a few feet away and is only noticeable if you look
closely.  The name of the marker that I have used is GUNDAM MARKER and is
made in Japan by GUNZE SANGYO.  The code # is GM05[200](I think).  I got
mine at the local hobby store and I have seen it in most model hobby stores.
Paint is drawn out of the tip if you press on the tip with a little
pressure.  Its easy to use.

Another way to do the same thing is to buy the Acrylic Paint by TAMIYA.  The
code # for this is Chrome Silver X-11.  IF you can't find the TAMIYA line
then try the HUMBROL line.  They have Silver (MC17), and in their Metal Cote
line they have Polished Steel, Polished Aluminum and of course Gun Metal.
If you use a brush, no matter how small, it is very difficult to get very
straight lines and not go over the edges.  It works much better if you use a
Q-Tip to apply the paint or a small sponge brush made by ARMORY (NB-108
Sponge or smaller).  This will give you an even line over the entire ridge
without the "squigles" that a regular brush would make around the edges.

Hope this helps :) 
Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2 - "Snarls Softly and Carries a Big Kick"

- ------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 06:05:27 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH 

     The best way I've found to touch things like this up is model paint.  
     It looks good, but not shiny and perfect like factory chrome, but like 
     chrome paint as you'd expect.  Still, it's a big improvement over 
     what's there now and it's easy to do.  Head down to your local hobby 
     shop/toy store and pick up a bottle and a small brush.  They also have 
     paint pens there too that would probably work equally well, but are 
     harder to perform details with than the brush.
     
     One tip: the silver paint tends to rub off or get discolored rather 
     easily when handling it.  Pick up a small bottle of clear model paint 
     too to go over the silver with after it's dried a day


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/13/96 5:05 AM


Hello,
  I have a resto question for those of you with experience restoring dashs.  
On my '68 442 (and possibly other year 442's), on the dash, there are circles 
that go around all of the knobs and features on the dash (i.e. - cigar 
lighter, radio knobs, headlight switch).  These circles are little raised 
plastic circles, and the top side of each circle is coated with a silver 
finish.  Some of the silver finish on some of the circles has worn off over 
time.  Does anyone have a good resto tip on how to reapply this silver 
finish.  I've been told to just take a silver permanant marker (by a MOPAR 
friend) and carefully go over the tops of the circles, but I wondered if this 
would be the right way to do it, or if there is a better way.  
     
                                                          Thanks,
                                                            Craig
     
     

- ------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:21:25 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH -Reply

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> What else would all the Canadian housewives do in their spare time 
> (besides gabbing on the phone with their girlfriends)?  

Shovel snow?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- - -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

- ------------------------------

From: Richard Bonazzoli <bonazzoli@5onflr.ENET.dec.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 13:25:21 -0300
Subject: RE: Your oppinions, please. 

>Here's the kicker:  over 200,000 miles on the
>chassis.  Whaddya'll think?  Is a '69 Cutlass with 200,000+ miles on it
>worth 2 G's?

Yes.

- ------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 08:25:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Your oppinions, please.

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> I've been looking at a '69 Cutlass for a while now and can't decide if it's
> worth $2000.   Here's the kicker:  over 200,000 miles on the
> chassis.  Whaddya'll think?  Is a '69 Cutlass with 200,000+ miles on it
> worth 2 G's?
> 
> Thanks,
> Blaine
>

Blaine:

I wouldn't just discount the 200,000 miles, but check the car & drive 
it.  To me a car is what it is.  If it operates well, doesn't show 
mechanical wear, & has good maintenance w/out crazy modifications like 
spaggetti type wiring all over, weld marks from severe problems, & 
evidence of care then the mileage doesn't mean anything.

I have seen 30,000 mile cars which couldn't be saved after the treatment 
they got & I personally own a 350,000 mile car that is in excellent 
condition.  Trust your senses as you drive & look over the car.  $2000 
sounds fine for a good car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

- ------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 13:33:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Legislation

> > So, are palmetto bugs what's used for croutons in FL?  
> > Sounds like a good name for abandoned VWs.
> 
> No, they're what we use for roaches.  
> ...and they're larger than VWs.
> ...and faster.

...and they fly.

- - 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

- ------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 14:01:29 -0300
Subject: Palmetto bugs? 

Egad!  Sounds like you guys need to invest in a Li'l Red Rider BB gun. =-) 
Fun sport, shootin' roaches.  Good excercise for your reflexes and
marksmanship skills, too...  Hee hee hee!

>>> Robert Lawrence <lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com> 08/13/96 10:33am
>>>
> > So, are palmetto bugs what's used for croutons in FL?   > > Sounds
like a good name for abandoned VWs.
>  > No, they're what we use for roaches.   > ...and they're larger than
VWs.
> ...and faster.

...and they fly.

- ------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 15:00:13 -0300
Subject: Resto  Tip  .....  (requested)

How to get the "chrome" on the circles and letters on a dash.....

i have tried 2 ways.....

one is trying the paint....  it mainly comes in silver, not chrome.....
but testors paints, in the model car section of a toy store, does have this
silver paint in pen and brush form, and makes it a nice appearence...
this process is easier than the actual "chrome" look.

To get the "real" chrome look on your dash.....

look in an arts and crafts store or this particular section in Wal-Mart, etc.
I was able to buy at my local Wal-Mart good size sheets that look like
Mylar (the stuff the chrome balloons are made of) but this is a little 
different.  A glue can be purchased, or clear nail polish can first be applied
to the surface.   Then this mylar substance is pressed down on the glue
once it becomes tacky.  press it on the surface you want chromed, wait for
the glue / nail polish to fully dry and then peel the sheet off.

Presto!  "real chrome" not silver.  if you get too much on, you can carefully
"scratch" it off....  if not enough, put a little more gule on and repete the
process.

These tips work!  i personally have used them.

now remember, the chrome is not mylar, but appears to be as such....
you may find it near "fabric" type things.


Hope this helps all of you...


Resto Corner

- - --joe ferrero

- ------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 17:34:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Palmetto bugs?

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
> 
> Egad!  Sounds like you guys need to invest in a Li'l Red Rider BB gun. 
> Fun sport, shootin' roaches.  Good excercise for your reflexes and
> marksmanship skills, too...  Hee hee hee!

PULL!

The 66 Toro and Mike

 
- - -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

- ------------------------------

From: tmorris@bt1dc18e.bet.ibm.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 11:15:50 -0300
Subject: Steering box ajustment

Finished installing the steering box the other day.  Not too difficult at all 
but the 
response still isn't as crisp as I'd like.  I understand the box can be 
further adjusted.  
The only possible way to adjust that I can see is via a "thing" on the top of 
the box.  It 
looks like a nut with an insert in the top which accepts a hex key.  The 
question:  do I 
adjust the nut, or use the hex key?  (Both so far won't budge.) thanks.

Todd Morris
71 442 
  

- ------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 14:39:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering box ajustment 

>The only possible way to adjust that I can see is via a "thing" on the 
>top of the box. It looks like a nut with an insert in the top which 
>accepts a hex key.  The question:  do I adjust the nut, or use the hex
>key? (Both so far won't budge.)

I think the nut serves to lock the center screw in position. You crack
loose the nut, make your adjustments to the center screw as necessary,
then tighten the nut to hold it there.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

- ------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 15:47:53 -0300
Subject: Fwd: Steering box ajustment 

loosenthe nut then turn the allen clockwise to tighten the box then retighten
the nut to lock it down
- - ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	tmorris@BT1DC18E.bet.ibm.com
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-13 14:35:30 EDT


Finished installing the steering box the other day.  Not too difficult at all
but the 
response still isn't as crisp as I'd like.  I understand the box can be
further adjusted.  
The only possible way to adjust that I can see is via a "thing" on the top of
the box.  It 
looks like a nut with an insert in the top which accepts a hex key.  The
question:  do I 
adjust the nut, or use the hex key?  (Both so far won't budge.) thanks.

Todd Morris
71 442 
  

- ------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:09:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Hurst Heritage books

Well, it goes into detail on all the special Hurst vehicles made up to 83
and has a blurb about the "upcoming" 84 H/O. It was printed in 83. The cover
has a 69 H/O and the chapters are as follows:

1. George Hurst Story
2.The Grand Promoter
3. Shifters, Wheels and More
4. Rolling Legends 68-72 H/O
5. The Heritage Lives 73-84 H/O
6. Pontiac and Hurst
7. Hurst's Chrysler Collection
8. AMC and Hurst
9. Prototypes, Customs and One-Off's
10. Hurst in Miniature
11. The Cars and Concept years
12. Hurst and Mr. Gasket
plus state charts and color pics of the cars. Hope this helps...
At 10:34 AM 8/13/96 -0300, Shawn Twomey wrote:
>>I was at the local big swap meet here today and came across a book dealer
>>out of Charlotte, NC called Midlife Classic Cars that was selling the Hurst
>>Heritage books
>
>Could Jason or anyone else recap what exactly is in these books?
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------

- ------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:14:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered

>How many miles does the 83 H/O have on it for $8000? I recently picked up 
>an 83 from the original owner with 9969 miles on it for a cool $15,000. 
>Loaded! t-tops, lite gray cloth interior, extra stripe kit complete with 
>all logos/emblems, extra bucket seat skin, and a pile of OEM parts he 
>bought "just-in-case". So eight grand if it's mint, ain't bad. Remember 
>in 1983 only 3001 of those cars were produced, and not to many good ones 
>are left I bet.

$15,000 for all you got in my opinion is a real good price. Compared to
other production years the 83 was one of the highest produced H/O's...yet
still rare. 
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------

- ------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 11:11:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering box ajustment

> 
> Finished installing the steering box the other day.  Not too difficult at 
all but the
> response still isn't as crisp as I'd like.  I understand the box can be 
further adjusted.
> The only possible way to adjust that I can see is via a "thing" on the top 
of the box.  It
> looks like a nut with an insert in the top which accepts a hex key.  The 
question:  do I
> adjust the nut, or use the hex key?  (Both so far won't budge.) thanks.
> 
> Todd Morris
> 

Todd:

It is a combination.  Loosen the nut while using a hex key to hold the 
screw.  Tighten the screw a quarter turn or so & then retighten the nut 
while holding the screw so that it doesn't turn.  The screw is doing the 
adjusting while the nut just keeps the screw tight after you get the 
adjustment that you want.  Drive the car & check steering.  If you get 
the screw a little tight, the steering will be stiff, not want to return 
to center, & have a 'certin roughness' to it.  Back off the screw until 
you get a smooth feel back.  At that point you will have taken up all of 
the slack that you can.  If you still have too much slackness, only a 
rebuild or replacement of the steering sector will help you.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

- ------------------------------

From: "AUVAX7::RILES" <RILES%AUVAX7.decnet@auscam.amd.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:40:00 -0300
Subject: Looking for chrome

To all,

I am looking for the piece of chrome that fits around the back of the 
convertible top 
opening for my '71 Cutlass.  This is the piece that the boot tab tucks into.  
Please 
e-mail me at robert.iles@amd.com with any help on this.

Thanks,
Robert
'71 Cutlass Convertible

- ------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:48:21 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 Resto Question - DASH - Resto Tip

Nick,
You can go to the hobby shop and buy a silver "marks a lot" and paint those 
raised places you're talking about. My oldest son has a steadier hand than me 
so 
he does it. (by "marks a lot", I mean a felt tipped pen.

Art Fuller 

- ------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:49:00 -0300
Subject: Lauren Engineering:  frame supports & speedo heads

I just got off the phone with a guy from Lauren - I called to ask him
about what Cutlass people can expect as far as future developments.

First, they have finally developed a 140mph speedo decal for the Cutlass
- - - they've had ones that fit Monte Carlos and Malibus, etc., for quite
some time.  The guys says they have them, but won't release them until
they hear back from the "beta tester" that it actually works - told me
to call back in 30 days.

Second, he said they were working on a triangular frame support to
strengthen & stiffen G-body frames - I didn't get details but if someone
can picture this maybe you could give an opinion as to how well it would
work.  Apparently they had these before but they lost their supplier, so
now they have to build them themselves.  He mentioned some other frame
connector they sell, but which should already be on my '84 Hurst.  Man,
I'm short on details - I gotta write this stuff down better.

I asked him about repro t-tops parts - no dice, cowl induction hoods
instead of cowl REduction hoods - no dice, he gave me a story about how
cowl INduction never really worked and described in detail about cowl
REduction, how it promotes air thru the radiator and air in the engine
compartment is no longer forced downward causing a lifting motion...with
the cowl hood, air can go up thru the hole in the hood, using the
windshield as a spoiler and helping the car stay down.  He said that
Grand Nationals have a 125mph cutoff on the computer - guys were
removing the cutoff but experiencing hydrofoil at the higher speeds, not
being able to turn their cars (bummer).  Asked about repro lightning rod
consoles - no dice, but they are making the shifter plate.  I told him
that it'd be a real money-maker if they offered the whole shebang.

I suggest that if anyone else is interested in these things, call and
badger them - the more the merrier!  Keep in mind that Lauren
specializes in body parts and special accessories for G-body cars. 
Check Bryce's page for contact info and a catalog.

- - -----------------==============================
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do |
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."  |
517 346-7104     |   -Yoda                    |
- - -----------------==============================
                                

- ------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 15:53:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Lauren Engineering:  frame supports & speedo heads 

>First, they have finally developed a 140mph speedo decal for the Cutlass
>- they've had ones that fit Monte Carlos and Malibus, etc., for quite
>some time.  The guys says they have them, but won't release them until
>they hear back from the "beta tester" that it actually works - told me
>to call back in 30 days.

They need a beta tester for a _decal_?  :-)

I'm curious; how do you get a 140mph speedo this way? I assume it would
involve something like gearing down the cable, then sticking the decal
on the face to renumber the scale, but what do you do about the odometer?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

- ------------------------------

From: LRoss922@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 17:15:00 -0300
Subject: 1994 Eighty Eight Royale LS 

I have a 1994 Eighty Eight Royale LS.
I have had a problem with it.  It is a great car, but has had an oil
consumption
problem.  First I noticed a small amount of oil being used over a 1,000 mile
period.
Had that checked out at the dealer while in for an oil change.  They checked
the PCV system and it was ok. Then I drove the car 300 miles and it used a
half quart of oil.  Took it to the dealer and had them start an oil
consumption test on it.  It continued to use small amounts of oil that
gradually decreased, and now it uses 
no oil at all.
(the engine ran great and did not smoke or anything)

Has anyone had this type of problem or have any idea what the deal is?

Brad Ross

- ------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 17:12:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Woodward Dream Cruise '96

> From oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca Tue Aug 13 01:06 EDT 1996
> From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
> To: "Oldsmobile List" <oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
> Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise '96
> Date: 	Tue, 13 Aug 1996 01:02:46 -0300
> Anyone planning on going to the Woodward Dream Cruise with their Olds,
> Saturday the 17th? Maybe we could plan on someplace to meet, if enough
> people are interested.

I'm interested.

- - 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

- ------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu> (by way of ndg@traverse.com 
(Nielsen Design Group))
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 17:14:18 -0300
Subject: car available 

Hello all,

Well, Chris Witt came up to visit this weekend and we went and hit the local
junk establishments.

Found a few goodies but mostly enjoyed Chris' company and fresh humor.
Kept him in trouble with the wife close to all weekend with our late
returns from productive junkyarding.

We found two '68s that I never even knew existed; one was a Cutlass S,
the other a 442 that had seen far better days. Neither was an appropriate
purchase; 442 not available, Cutlass S 'only' $500 but about $100 worth.

Anyway, Chris emailed me with cars found on his trip home and I thought I'd
share them with y'all:

- - -----------------------------------------------
  Buckley, MI [northern lower peninsula]
$9500 or best offer:  1966 442. Rustfree body, no plastic filler. Looks good at
100 feet. Paint flaws upon closer inspection. 14K miles on "original" engine
which is actually instead a 455 block with correct-ish B heads and an Edelbrock
intake. Holey carb? with original-looking air cleaner. Presumably incorrect
TH400 trans. Hokey shifter looks like a manual trans stick in the floor. No
PRNDL in dash. Original kickdown switch has no wires on it, so if the TH400
in there has a switch pitch, it's not hooked up, nor is the kickdown
switch. Knee Knocker tachometer. Non-original ? SSI-ish wheels with trim rings.
10-bolt rear end. Apparently driven regularly.

the Rocket Scientist rates it at overpriced by a factor of 2 to 3, based on the
cheesy paint, incorrect engine/ trans/ shifter/ wheels/ who knows what else, 
and
hokey/ cobbled mechanical work. B heads may or may not be Big Valve units.
Present owner thought engine was original because previous owner said so...
which means he has not investigated it properly and thinks it's worth a mint
because it's so "original". I did point out the engine ID and told him what it
means, so if he continues to claim it's an 'original' engine, he's being less
than totally honest.
- - -----------------------------------------------
   Near Buckley, MI
$800: '84 Cutlass Calais. Looks good at 300 feet. Some door bottom rust. 3.8L
V6, aftermarket AL sport wheels, good tires. Gage package, 2-spoke factory
sport steering wheel. Tilt, cruise, rear defogger, etc.

RS rates this one as a prime candidate for a pre-computerized Much Better
Engine such as a 350, 403, or Big Bloke [sic]. Needs touch-up bodywork & paint
to complete a nice package. Interior shows normal wear & tear. Cheap
acquisition; they might take less than $800 even.
- - -----------------------------------------------

For more info, call Chris at 517-882-9747.

- ------------------------------

From: LEW <LEW@KBP.COM>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 18:56:32 -0300
Subject: 1987 olds tornado trofeo

I would like to find out some information on the trofeo series.  Was
this a limited production car?  I just purchased one and have never seen
one before.  Ifyou know of where i can get production statics on this
car i'd appreciate it.  Thanks

Lew@kbp.com

- ------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:00:35 -0300
Subject: No Digest Again

Is "America Off Line" causing Olds digest Problems again or is it up at ccn.

 ---  
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  President - Capitol City Rockets, OCA
| | |  76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---

- ------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 12:01:43 -0300
Subject: G-body questions 

     I have two quick questions that I'm hoping someone here can answer 
     about my '84 Hurst/Olds.
     
     1) What's the proper procedure for setting the TV cable?  The 
     instructions I have aren't clear whether you hold the release button 
     in while you move the throlle or release the button first.  If I 
     release it first, the cable doesn't move and doesn't get adjusted (and 
     I get really harsh, rather late shifts).  If I don't release it first, 
     it just pulls all the way forward and I get early, slow, sloppy 
     shifts.  For now I just sorta "played it by ear" and adjusted it until 
     I like it.
     
     2) Where under the dash is the courtesy module that has the chimes for 
     the headlights and seatbelts, and what does it look like?  My seatbelt 
     light won't go out, and I only get chimes for it about half the time.
     
     Thanks!
     
     Tom L.

- ------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 18:28:40 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body questions 

>     I have two quick questions that I'm hoping someone here can answer 
>     about my '84 Hurst/Olds.

Actually you could have stopped right there, and I probably could have
guessed what the questions would be.  :-)  (No, not FAQs, really, but,
um, Been There, Done That.)

>     1) What's the proper procedure for setting the TV cable?  The 
>     instructions I have aren't clear whether you hold the release button 
>     in while you move the throttle or release the button first.

Press the "button" down (mine looked more like a clamp than a button, but
whatever), hold it there while opening the throttle all the way by hand, 
release the clamp, release the throttle. In theory this adjusts the casing
such that you get maximum cable core travel at maximum throttle position,
and not before. That, if I remember right, is the "proper" procedure, but
I can see how backing it up slightly might help.

>     2) Where under the dash is the courtesy module that has the chimes for 
>     the headlights and seatbelts, and what does it look like?

It's more _behind_ the dash than _under_ the dash; in other words, it's
pretty far up. It's an orange box, perhaps the size of a pack of cigarettes
or a bit smaller, with several little wiring harnesses coming out of it and
going various places.

>My seatbelt 
>     light won't go out, and I only get chimes for it about half the time.

Typical. "They All Do That." That's the culprit, all right. More than a few
times I've pulled up next to another Cutlass at night in traffic, looked over
and seen the seat belt light blazing away in the darkness.

On mine, if I thumped on the dash between the rear defogger switch on the
left ('82, not earlier models) and the steering column, the chimes would
cut in and out, so apparently there's a cracked solder trace or something
like that in the box, but the box itself was so buried in the dash that I
never got around to extracting it for a closer look.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

- ------------------------------

From: "Gary Bowles" <bodog@napanet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 21:39:52 -0300
Subject: "70 442 W-30 Ram Air Parts

I'm missing the foam mating piece between the ram air and the ram air base
that attaches to the carb.  I've got the flap and such, just missing that
piece, maybe missing more (I don't know what the pieces are originally).
Where do I find these?
Catalog?
Special Parts dealer?
Thanks
Brad
'70 442 W-30

- ------------------------------

From: AllenDJ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 22:18:21 -0300
Subject: subscribe 

I own a '69 Cutlass convertible and am looking for a 70 Rallye 350 4speed.
David Allen
allendj@aol.com

- ------------------------------

From: LRoss922@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 22:40:26 -0300
Subject: Air conditioning 

I turned on the defroster in my car to de-fog my windshield after I left it
on for about 
five minutes and then the AC compressor seized up.  The car had sat in the
garage
for about one year before I bought it.  The air conditioner did not blow cold
air, and I probably could have saved myself from the whole mess by having the
system serviced.  The car had only 51,000 miles on it when I purchased it and
it already had a re-manufactured AC compressor on it.  It did sit for long
periods of time from the time it was new. (The owner was a little old lady
that did'nt travel much).
My guess is that all of that sitting caused the compressor to seize up.

Does anyone know if the compressor needs to be replaced, and if so,
where can I get a NOS or new compressor that looks original?

                 Please help!

Brad Ross
1971 Delta Royale 

- ------------------------------

From: Mike Coccagna <MikeC@oz.kis.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 22:52:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 olds tornado trofeo

LEW wrote:
> I would like to find out some information on the trofeo series.  Was
> this a limited production car?  I just purchased one and have never seen
> one before.  Ifyou know of where i can get production statics on this
> car i'd appreciate it.  Thanks

Try the Olds History Center (the phone number should be on Bryce's page
(http://www.442.com)).  They should be able to get you production
numbers and decode some of the option codes by sending you a copy of the
Salesman's (Salesperson's) Guide.  I called for my car (a '91) and found
out it is 1 of about 1,360.  They were very nice on the phone (call in
the morning 8-11am Eastern) and I got the info an 2 or 3 days.

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

- ------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 23:57:08 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body questions

I have an Olds factory service manual from 1980 that has pictures and
scetches of what you are talking about in #2. 78-87 cars have them in the
same location. I can copy it for you if you wish? Let me know...

>     2) Where under the dash is the courtesy module that has the chimes for 
>     the headlights and seatbelts, and what does it look like?  My seatbelt 
>     light won't go out, and I only get chimes for it about half the time.
>     
>     Thanks!
>     
>     Tom L.
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------

- ------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 17:16:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Your oppinions, please.

Whaddya'll think?  Is a '69 Cutlass with 200,000+ miles on it
> >worth 2 G's?
> 
If the car drives nice and especially doesn't have much or no bondo, I 
would certainly pay that price.

- - -Dan

- ------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 00:10:55 -0300
Subject: New Olds added to my collection.... 

I sent this note two days ago but did not see it post so I will try again.
Well I went ahead and purchased the 1980 442 W-30 that I was looking at.
This is one great car. It is from Arizona, no rust on the body but the usual
frame rust from that era is showing, 92,000 miles, original showroom new
looking paint, interior immaculate. There were only 886 made in 1980, I have
never seen one before this. Appearance wise it looks just like a white 79
H/O with the same wheels and W-30 fender graphics. What sets it apart is a
factory rear spoiler and 4 headlights instead of two. I got it for $4,000
which I consider a steal. It was purchased from a dealer who had thought it
was a H/O, he had little knowledge of what he actually had. I took it to its
first car show tonight, only the second night I had it. It was by far the
most looked at car and I had at least 3 so called "experts" swear that the
car was a fake. Well....the vin, body tag and build sheet prove it is a real
442 W-30. Kinda neat to have something that no one else has....Has any of
you ever seen a 1980 442 W-30??? The Rocket 350 really moves this car off
the line and the factory dual exhaust is a nice!
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- - -------------------------------------------------------------------

- ------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 00:23:21 -0300
Subject: Re: New Olds added to my collection.... 

I have seen two. One in Winsor Ontario and one is Lansing MI.    Also I went
to the
Canadian Nats two years ago and their were 4 80 442's   One from NY,PA and
two 
Ontario cars.  They are neat and look kinda like 79 H/O's.  Also this was the

last year that a 350 olds was offered and only in these cars.  The Calais
only got
260's this year.     So glad you bought it and keep it forever.




W MACHINES  (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket   1 of 771 

- ------------------------------

From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 00:27:04 -0300
Subject: Re: '66 442 

On 8-12-96, Mike Turley wrote:

>I located this car last week, and discovered it was for sale.  It
>is nearly PERFECT (only 3300 additional miles in the 8 years).
 
>I have a deposit on this car and the price is $10,500.  What I want
>to know is whether this is a good price (remember 99% PERFECT), ie.
>is it worth $10,500 without the sentimental value?
 
Mike, I don't know if it's worth $10,500, but if I didn't have a car note to
pay for the next four years, AND if I had a place to park another 442, I
would try to buy this '66 before you did.  99% perfect?  That car's in
better shape than I am, and I'M a '66 model, too.....

Doug Newman
1987 442
Columbus, Mississippi   

- ------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 00:41:39 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body question (adjusting the TV cable)

> >     1) What's the proper procedure for setting the TV cable?  The 
> >     instructions I have aren't clear whether you hold the release button 
> >     in while you move the throttle or release the button first.
> 
> Press the "button" down (mine looked more like a clamp than a button, but
> whatever), hold it there while opening the throttle all the way by hand, 
> release the clamp, release the throttle. In theory this adjusts the casing
> such that you get maximum cable core travel at maximum throttle position,
> and not before. That, if I remember right, is the "proper" procedure, but
> I can see how backing it up slightly might help.

I don't believe this will produce a correct adjustment!  Pressing the
metal button down releases the ratcheting mechanism on the slider (which
extends outwards along the cable).  While holding the button down, push
this slider back in towards the housing so that it is flush with its
surroundings.  Extend the throttle on the carburetor/throttle body to the
wide open position *without* touching the re-adjust tab.  The slider will
then ratchet outwards as the throttle is moved until WOT is reached.  The
manual usually cautions against using the accelerator pedal to achieve WOT
since the added drag of pulling the ratcheting mechanism outwards might
prevent full throttle valve opening due to cable stretch.  This adjustment
procedure ensures proper up and downshifting, and maximum line pressure
during WOT operation.  Some cars from the factory come with this cable
'misadjusted', where the slider protrudes slightly more than necessary.
This is probably done to provide smoother and earlier shifts, or perhaps
the adjustment was never checked at the factory. 

Kevin

- ------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 01:12:04 -0300
Subject: Re: "70 442 W-30 Ram Air Parts

Brad,
All of the businesses that sell Oldsmobile parts have the foam rubber that you 
need. Personally, I conduct all my business with Fusicks. I believe that price 
is less than $20. The telephone number is (203)623-1583 or 623-1589. Ask for 
Mark and it will be on the way the same day you order.

Art 
Fuller									
P.S. He can help you with the piece parts you need for the air cleaner.	

- ------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #265
********************************

------------------------------

From: STEE911@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 02:13:55 -0300
Subject: Fwd: Air conditioning 

when you use the defrost it actually uses the heater and the a/c to remove
moisture
dont know why the comp seized==year one carries ac comps i think
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	LRoss922@aol.com
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Date: 96-08-13 21:46:35 EDT

I turned on the defroster in my car to de-fog my windshield after I left it
on for about 
five minutes and then the AC compressor seized up.  The car had sat in the
garage
for about one year before I bought it.  The air conditioner did not blow cold
air, and I probably could have saved myself from the whole mess by having the
system serviced.  The car had only 51,000 miles on it when I purchased it and
it already had a re-manufactured AC compressor on it.  It did sit for long
periods of time from the time it was new. (The owner was a little old lady
that did'nt travel much).
My guess is that all of that sitting caused the compressor to seize up.

Does anyone know if the compressor needs to be replaced, and if so,
where can I get a NOS or new compressor that looks original?

                 Please help!

Brad Ross
1971 Delta Royale 

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 02:19:59 -0300
Subject: URL's 

Thanks for the information on the Jaguar URL's and mailing list, my friend
was real happy to get it!
chris fair

------------------------------

From: Ken <rottin@coil.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 01:51:39 -0300
Subject: RE: Olds' on the big screen

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Who wants to summarize the use of Olds' in movies for inclusion in the FAQ?

How about a listing something like:

Movie               Year   What Olds   Comments
- -----               ----     ---------   --------
Demo Man            '94    '70 442     A pinnacle of rebels independence.
                                                  Suffers front end hurt :(.
      
      Airheads                '95     '67  442  Con.     Main characters old 
ladys car.
                                                                     Sweet 
ride. :)

  

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------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 02:37:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Air conditioning

On Wed, 14 Aug 1996 STEE911@aol.com wrote:

>> dont know why the comp seized==year one carries ac comps i think

   As someone pointed out to me, "Year One == good for One Year".

> I turned on the defroster in my car to de-fog my windshield after I left it
> on for about five minutes and then the AC compressor seized up. 

   I'd be more apt to get a regular rebuilt (those A6's are pretty 
durable - they're just known for slinging lots of oil around...) and 
transfer your original sticker if you feel the need.

   Strange, I had a '71 with the original (at least it LOOKED original) 
compressor which had sat with no lines hooked to it for about 5 years.  
Reconnected, vacuum'd, and charged the system.   Worked fine all summer 
until the car got chopped for parts.

> My guess is that all of that sitting caused the compressor to seize up.

   More like all the oil drained into other parts of the system.  When 
you do finally replace it, make sure it's got the right oil charge - who 
knows, mabye the system has no oil in it!

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 05:09:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Woodward Dream Cruise '96

>Anyone planning on going to the Woodward Dream Cruise with their Olds,
>Saturday the 17th? Maybe we could plan on someplace to meet, if enough
>people are interested.

Yes, I am going to be there... I will be wearing my Bryceman/442 T-Shirt. 
Let's set up a place to meet!

Regards,
Mike


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:17:02 -0300
Subject: RE: Steering box adjustment

The screw is used to adjust the so called "over 
center preload".

You didn't mention if you have the power steering 
or the 'athletic'-type
of steering box.

If you have the non-powered type, there exists the 
worm pre-load adjustment
as well. I mention this because you should adjust 
the worm preload BEFORE
the over-center adjustment.

The worm-preload adjusting is done by screwing the 
core 'cup' at the bottom
of the box until the desired preload is achieved. 
You should have (or perhaps lend) 
a preload measuring tool to do all this. Also, you 
should have the preload values
to be able to adjust the worm. (somebody in this 
list can certainly help you
in that matter). When doing the adjustment, the 
over-center preload adjusting
screw should be loosened. The worm pre-load is 
measured on the steering wheel axle
with steering box uninstalled (sorry).

If there is too little worm-pre-load, the steering 
will be loose. If there is
too much pre-load, the worm will crack!.

Propably you do have the power steering. If so, you 
don't have an adjustment for
the worm (as you said).

Anyway you should do the over-center preload 
adjustment. The screw and the NUT are
for that purpose. My shop-manual (Olds 98 1964) 
states that this nut should be
discarded if it is loosened. I think that a new one 
does not cost a lot.


The over-center preload adjustment:

The adjustment can and should be done with the 
steering box installed in the car :).

Get two empty (plastic) bottles which you use to 
'cover' the hydraulic leads after
you disconnect them from the pump. Put the lead 
ends each into it's own bottle and
tape it there. You don't need to do this if you 
have planned to spray your machine
with hydraulic fluid. The pump can bleed as well, 
so get some wood sticks or
some other stuff to shut the holes in it. The pump 
must be disconnected from your
steering box to get the measurement right. If you 
have brutal-force-steering, you
don't have to do any of this fluid-stuff ;).

Remove the cup on the center of the steering wheel. 
You should discover a nut there.

Lift up both front wheels so that the steering 
becomes relaxed. Best place would be
the lower control arms but do not do this if you 
are not sure that it can be done.
Some control arms just don't make this.

Loosen the over-center preload adjusting screw and 
measure the highest turning preload
near the over-center position measured on the 
center nut on your steering wheel.
Memorize that figure.

Add the recommended over-center preload value to 
the figure you just got and tighten
the over-center preload adjusting screw until you 
reach this figure. I think that
somebody in this list can give you the right 
figure.

Tighten the adjusting screw another 1/4 round and 
keep it in position while tightening
the locking nut.

Measure the over-center preload again and readjust 
as needed.

Reconnect the pump and there you are.

Note that this adjustment applies to a box that is 
not too weared. If the box is
ok. then the preload is at highest level at the 
center and at lowes levels at sides.
In case of weared box there is no increase in 
preload near the center.

You can get overhaul kit from Fusick, I think.

Have a nice adjustment.


PS. Many thanks to all good stuff in this mailing 
list:
1) My dashboard clock now has a more decent tempo 
(only 5 minutes too fast / day)
2) I have changed the interior lamp succesfully
3) I found the weather-stripping from Fusick's
and so on..... :-)

- -- 
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile 98  1964  4D HT                 *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 04:37:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Resto  Tip  .....  (requested) 

>Date:		Tue, 13 Aug 1996 15:00:13 -0300
>From:	JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Resto  Tip  .....  (requested)
>
>How to get the "chrome" on the circles and letters on a dash.....
>
>i have tried 2 ways.....
>
>one is trying the paint....  it mainly comes in silver, not chrome.....
>but testors paints, in the model car section of a toy store, does have this
>silver paint in pen and brush form, and makes it a nice appearence...
>this process is easier than the actual "chrome" look.
>
>To get the "real" chrome look on your dash.....
>
>look in an arts and crafts store or this particular section in Wal-Mart,
> etc.
>I was able to buy at my local Wal-Mart good size sheets that look like
>Mylar (the stuff the chrome balloons are made of) but this is a little 
>different.  A glue can be purchased, or clear nail polish can first be
> applied
>to the surface.   Then this mylar substance is pressed down on the glue
>once it becomes tacky.  press it on the surface you want chromed, wait for
>the glue / nail polish to fully dry and then peel the sheet off.
>
>Presto!  "real chrome" not silver.  if you get too much on, you can
> carefully
>"scratch" it off....  if not enough, put a little more gule on and repete
> the
>process.
>
>These tips work!  i personally have used them.
>
>now remember, the chrome is not mylar, but appears to be as such....
>you may find it near "fabric" type things.
>
>
>Hope this helps all of you...
>
>
>Resto Corner
>
>--joe ferrero

Joe, 
What kind of glue would you use?  Just Elmer's white glue, or some other 
type, and which is better to use, the glue or the clear nail polish?  Also, I 
just want to make sure I understand you correctly - You apply the glue to the 
dash surface (not the chrome fabric), then press on the chrome?  If so, would 
you just use a fine paint brush to apply the glue?  I just wanted to clear 
that up, because I'll probably do that - Thanks so much.

                                                         Talk Later,
                                                           Craig Dobbins

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 04:53:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered

>Date:		Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:14:24 -0300
>From:	"Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>cc:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Subject:	Re: Olds Recovered
>
>
>>How many miles does the 83 H/O have on it for $8000? I recently picked up 
>>an 83 from the original owner with 9969 miles on it for a cool $15,000. 
>>Loaded! t-tops, lite gray cloth interior, extra stripe kit complete with 
>>all logos/emblems, extra bucket seat skin, and a pile of OEM parts he 
>>bought "just-in-case". So eight grand if it's mint, ain't bad. Remember 
>>in 1983 only 3001 of those cars were produced, and not to many good ones 
>>are left I bet.
>
>$15,000 for all you got in my opinion is a real good price. Compared to
>other production years the 83 was one of the highest produced H/O's...yet
>still rare. 
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
>1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
>1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
>1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>Hello,
  I'm in Buffalo, and I just saw an '83 442 for sale for around $3-4000 
(somewhere in there), didn't know if anyone was interested or not.  Also saw 
an '87 442 for sale - garaged, no winters, low milage - for $8200.00, or a 
little less probably.  If anyone is interested, mail me back.  I'd be happy 
to hook you up with some phone #'s.

                                                       Craig Dobbins
                                                       Kissrulz@gnn.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 10:03:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Your oppinions, please. 

>> >Whaddya'll think?  Is a '69 Cutlass with 200,000+ miles on it
>> >worth 2 G's?
>> 
>If the car drives nice and especially doesn't have much or no bondo, I 
>would certainly pay that price.

Consult the following handy chart and select the best answer for each:

1) DO YOU _LIKE_ THIS CAR?

        a - YES: Go to Step 2.

        b - OH, IT'S OKAY, I GUESS: Stop here.

2) WHAT ELSE CAN YOU BUY FOR $2000 THESE DAYS?

        a - A WHOLE BUNCH OF MEDIOCRE CARS: Fine; go buy one of those instead.

        b - BUT I DON'T WANT ANY OF _THOSE_ CARS: Go to Step 3.

3) WHERE DO YOU PLAN TO FIND ANOTHER CHARCOAL GRAY '69 CUTLASS?

        a - UH, THERE'S A BIG SWAP MEET COMING UP NEXT MONTH: Fine, wait for
            that, then.

        b - ARE YOU KIDDING? Good answer! Sounds like you should buy this one!

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 10:07:35 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body question (adjusting the TV cable) 

>I don't believe this will produce a correct adjustment!  Pressing the
>metal button down releases the ratcheting mechanism on the slider (which
>extends outwards along the cable).

Right, I was reciting from memory; go with what the manual says.
My advice is worth what y'all are paying for it.  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 04:58:22 -0300
Subject: Re: New Olds added to my collection.... 

     Nope, I don't think I've ever seen one.  Of course, if it looks like 
     the '79 H/O then I might have mistaken it for one if I didn't see the 
     headlights.  Had I seen one at a car show before hearing about it here 
     I might not have called it an out-and-out fake, but I'da been real 
     suspicious.
     
     You should write the Olds History center (address on Bryce's 442.com 
     web page).  Send them the VIN and ask for info and they'll send you 
     back a bunch of stuff, including a letter saying your car is # x of y 
     produced that you can hang in the window at shows to shut up all the 
     skeptics.  It's free too, aside from the stamp!
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: New Olds added to my collection....
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/13/96 8:20 PM

car show tonight, only the second night I had it. It was by far the most 
looked at car and I had at least 3 so called "experts" swear that the car was 
a fake. Well....the vin, body tag and build sheet prove it is a real 442 
W-30. Kinda neat to have something that no one else has....Has any of you 
ever seen a 1980 442 W-30??? The Rocket 350 really moves this car off the 
line and the factory dual exhaust is a nice! 
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 13:58:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Movies -Reply

> 
> What a crapper!  I look 4 years for another Olds to buy with no luck.
> Then, as soon as I break down and buy a new truck, I find two that I
> really want and I don't have any money!  Well, as of yesterday, my truck
> is for sale.  I only hope it sells before those other two cars do...
> 
> -Blaine
> 

Here's a man who knows the value of a new truck - less than the value of 
2 old Oldsmobiles.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 19:11:53 -0300
Subject: Re: blower fan -Reply 

>Actually HIGH is the only speed that _uses_ a relay. The lower speeds
>go through a resistor pack mounted in the ductwork under the hood on

Hey, I've got the opposite prob.  All *except* High work on mine.  Any
ideas why and how to fix?

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 11:58:23 -0300
Subject: Small Block ID

Does anybody have the casting numbers to ID small block Olds engines (330's
in particular)?  I looked in the FAQ, but couldn't find anything.  The chart
for small block ID is mostly blank...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 20:16:13 -0300
Subject: Re: '66 442 

Mike Turley wrote:

>I located this car last week, and discovered it was for sale.  It
>is nearly PERFECT (only 3300 additional miles in the 8 years).
 
>I have a deposit on this car and the price is $10,500.  What I want
>to know is whether this is a good price (remember 99% PERFECT), ie.
>is it worth $10,500 without the sentimental value?
 
Mike, I don't know if it's worth $10,500, but if I didn't have a car note to
pay for the next four years, AND if I had a place to park another 442, I
would try to buy this '66 before you did.  99% perfect?  That car's in
better shape than I am, and I'M a '66 model, too.....

Doug Newman
1987 442
Columbus, Mississippi   

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 22:35:15 -0300
Subject: Re: '66 442

1966 442 Cutlass Holiday Coupes production:

Units: 13,493 or 61.3%  of total 442 production for 1966. 12,322 or 56%of
total were standard. 1,171 or 5.3% of total were tri-carb. Hope this helps.....

At 01:14 PM 8/12/96 -0300, Mike Turley wrote:

> 
>Also could someone provide me with some production figures for this
>vehicle?  I know I never see any around.
> 
>Thanks,
> 
>Mike Turley
>turley@symplex.com
>
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 22:57:56 -0300
Subject: 80-87 rally guage pack help....... 

The rally pack in my new 80 442 has some trouble. When the car is running
the tach hovers around redline and when I give it a little gas it buries all
the way. Also my oil pressure guage is buried all the way past 60psi. The
temp amd gas guage work fine. Any hints as to the problem. I think that the
printed circuit board might have corrosion on it? The tach is hooked into
the distrib. all the way. Also how do I get the trip odomoter to reset? the
reset button wont reset it, but the miles turn. Also I can't set the dash
clock with the dial, but it works......Thanks
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 22:53:05 -0300
Subject: New Olds in my collection..... 

Well today I finally purchased the 1980 442 W-30 that I was looking at. Wow,
what a beautiful car this is. IT is from Arizona with just over 92,000
miles. Has the 350 with 3a heads and the engine compartment looks as new as
it did on the showroom floor. The body has zero rust. Interior is as good as
it gets for a 16 year old car. I got this for $4,000. Price guide values
range from $6,000 to as high as $9,000. There were only 886 produced in
1980, one of the lowest 442 production years. It is kind of a landmark year
for the 80 442 as it was the last year for the 350 in the cutlass and the
last 442 produced until 1985. You should have seen the looks I got while
hauling this car home. People took double and triple takes at it, either for
its beauty or not knowing what it is. I asked around at the swap meet last
weekend and not a single person believed me that in 1980 there was a 442,
neither had anybody seen one. Well I have the proof now as all numbers from
the vin, cowl tag and build sheet check back to a 1980 442 W-30. Has anyone
here ever seen one? It looks identical to the 1979 H/O but the 1980 442 has
a rear spoiler and 442 badges and 4 headlights instead of 2.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 12:37:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Recovered

>>Hello,
>  I'm in Buffalo, and I just saw an '83 442 for sale for around $3-4000 
>(somewhere in there), didn't know if anyone was interested or not.  Also saw 
>an '87 442 for sale - garaged, no winters, low milage - for $8200.00, or a 
>little less probably.  If anyone is interested, mail me back.  I'd be happy 
>to hook you up with some phone #'s.
>
>                                                       Craig Dobbins
>                                                       Kissrulz@gnn.com

My 442 fact book that I just bought says that no 83 442's were made. The 80
442 was the last one made until 1985. Buyer beware......
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 12:45:13 -0300
Subject: Re: New Olds added to my collection....

Thanks for the bit of info Tom, I will do that. I sent to the history center
about my H/O but lost the address. Guess I will check Brycemans page out.
Most people thought of my car like you said. They think I took a 1980 Olds
and made it look like a 79 H/O, 442 hybrid.......

At 04:58 AM 8/14/96 -0300, Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>     Nope, I don't think I've ever seen one.  Of course, if it looks like 
>     the '79 H/O then I might have mistaken it for one if I didn't see the 
>     headlights.  Had I seen one at a car show before hearing about it here 
>     I might not have called it an out-and-out fake, but I'da been real 
>     suspicious.
>     
>     You should write the Olds History center (address on Bryce's 442.com 
>     web page).  Send them the VIN and ask for info and they'll send you 
>     back a bunch of stuff, including a letter saying your car is # x of y 
>     produced that you can hang in the window at shows to shut up all the 
>     skeptics.  It's free too, aside from the stamp!
>     
>     Tom L.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1980 4-4-2 W-30....1 of 886 produced                                       
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25....H/OCA #0278A            
1988 Camaro IROC Z-28
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey A Easton/ADD_LAKE_HUB/ADD_HUB/ADD/US 
<Jeffrey_A_Easton/ADD__LAKE__HUB/ADD__HUB/ADD/US. ADD@notes.abbott.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 07:57:18 -0300
Subject: Re: "70 442 W-30 Ram Air Parts

From: "Gary Bowles" <bodog@napanet.net>

>I'm missing the foam mating piece between the ram air and the ram air base
>that attaches to the carb.  I've got the flap and such, just missing that
>piece, maybe missing more (I don't know what the pieces are originally).
>Where do I find these?
>Catalog?
>Special Parts dealer?

I bought mine from Super Cars Unlimited out of Portland, Or.  I think Year One
has them as well.  Make sure you order the right one.  There is a taller
version for the small blocks (W-31, Rallye 350, etc)

If you've got the complete  plastic flapper assembly, with the door and vacum
motor still attached, two hold down springs and the special bracket that bolts 
under a RAC bolt, then its complete. 

An original lower air cleaner assembly should have some holes drilled in
the bottom to let out accumulated rain water.  An original flapper assembly
will not have a piano hinge, but instead have the flapper door snap onto the  
main plastic top.

- -Jeff
eastoja.add@notes.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 13:31:40 -0300
Subject: Summer Nats. in Indianna 

Anyone watch the Summer Nationals drag races on ESPN2 last night? 
There was a nice looking gold '68-9 Cutlass in the Pro Stock division.  It
was in the finals against a Gremlin (hee hee).  The Gremlin (being 1000
pounds lighter) obviously was faster, but he jumped the gun and lost. 
The Cutlass won 1st place in the Pro Stock division...  Hooray for
Oldsmobile!  BTW, a *woman* set the record for that raceway last night. 
Her Top Fuel dragster ran the 1/4 at 4.95!  That's haulin' some serious
*ss!

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey A Easton/ADD_LAKE_HUB/ADD_HUB/ADD/US 
<Jeffrey_A_Easton/ADD__LAKE__HUB/ADD__HUB/ADD/US. ADD@notes.abbott.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:04:40 -0300
Subject: Re: New Olds added to my collection....

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>

> Appearance wise it looks just like a white 79 H/O with the same wheels
>and W-30 fender graphics. What sets it apart is a factory rear spoiler
>and 4 headlights instead of two. 

Does it have the big gold blocks painted on the hood and trunk?

>The Rocket 350 really moves this car off the line and the factory
>dual exhaust is a nice!

I assume its a single cat with a y-pipe and dual mufflers (ala late
'80's 442's)?

Send a picture to Bryce's web page so we can see what it looks like.

- -Jeff
eastoja.add@notes.abbott.com

1970 442 4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 13:18:14 -0300
Subject: CCN Problems

Folks, apparently CCN is having some router queue problems. As near as I 
can figure, it means that some messages are being delayed for a couple of 
days before getting through. That would explain why I received some 
messages today that were dated as of Monday. I think digest #264 is stuck 
somewhere in there too. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 16:17:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement

Nick DiGiovanni wrote:
> 
> Since the 4-blade fan does not have the clutch, you will actually get 
> better cooling than with the clutch fan.  This is because the 
> non-clutch fan is always fully engaged and will constantly keep the rad 
> cooler.

While we're on the subject of fans, I gotta question here.  It was my 
understanding that:

	a) it takes horsepower to turn a fan.
	b) it isn't needed over 30-35 as airflow will do the cooling.

So the clutch was added to eliminate the HP soak ;) when the vehicle 
speed makes it unnecessary.  If that is true than not using a clutch will 
not increase cooling at speed and will decrease available HP.  

Opinions?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 13:20:15 -0300
Subject: Re: I'm Baaack

On Mon, 12 Aug 1996 PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> Just got in at 3pm from OCA Nats.  Can't believe it's over already!  Peg is
> the only person I saw (at the awards banquet, she didn't see me).
> 
> So what did I miss?

Hi Paul, welcome back. I think the real question is "what did *we* 
miss?". How about a report on the proceedings in Atlanta?

Greg Beaulieu       ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca       Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 13:26:16 -0300
Subject: Compression Check

Quick, possibly dumb question follows:

When you're doing a compression check, what wire should you pull to 
ensure that the engine doesn't start? The hi-tension wire from the coil 
to the distributor, or the 12v wire from the harness to the coil? Have 
this compression gauge here that I never used before, and am thinking of 
giving it a try, but don't want to injure myself...   :)

Will the results of this test indicate anything other than a overall
indication of possible problems? That is, I would assume that if
compression is down in one cylinder, you could have ring problems or valve
problems or head gasket problems, but that you wouldn't be able to tell
anything more specific than that. True or am I missing something? 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: stevew@atsmail.gc.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 13:54:00 -0300
Subject: Duals/Headers 

Just got  a 1983 '98 with a 307 and I would like to install 
a dual exhaust setup.

Does anybody make headers that will fit this car that can be
installed without modifying the engine(filter, starter, etc.) or
requiring that the engine be lifted?

Did OLDS make a dual setup that would fit?

Is there a setup for the exhaust that will go on in the driveway-
i.e., bolt-on to fit the duals/headers?

Thanks,

steve
OCA# 021608

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 12:58:45 -0300
Subject: Re: blower fan -Reply 

>Hey, I've got the opposite prob.  All *except* High work on mine.  Any
>ideas why and how to fix?

Yup. Usually it's a particular in-line harness connector under the hood
that melts. Find the high-speed bypass relay under the hood near the
blower motor. It has a fat red 10-gauge supply wire connected to it.
Follow that wire back toward the engine (it will travel with two or three
other wires) and you'll get to a black plastic in-line harness connector.
Unsnap the connector and I think you'll find that the contacts for the
10-gauge wire have melted inside the plastic housing. The usual repair is
to splice in a jumper for the 10-gauge wire around that connector. The
other wires going through that connector will probably be fine. Soldering
the jumper wire connections is a good idea, BTW.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 23:24:57 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 to 7 blade fan replacement

If you are considering going to the 7 blade fan you will require an a/c water 
pump. I happen to have one due to a 
botched-up purchase. It's brand new still in the original box and I painted it 
the correct gold colour, that's if you 
have the 350 motor (colour wise). I don't need it and I'm willing to let it go.
- -- 
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 07:13:23 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Movies -Reply 

     So where would the Bravada fall in all this?
     
     Or go get yourself an Oldmobile powered truck!  My SO has a '78 Chevy 
     diesel converted to an Olds 350.  Works great, a good truck engine!  
     You can pick up the old diesel trucks for really cheap and the olds 
     blocks just slip right in there with minimal modifications.  Whomever 
     did our conversion could have easily fit a 455 in there, heck there's 
     almost room for TWO 350's under that hood.  At least they did the 
     conversion "right" and used a 6-qt oil pan (7 w/ filter, Toro pan?), 
     2.5" true dual exhaust, and a TH-400.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Movies -Reply
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    8/14/96 9:50 AM

Here's a man who knows the value of a new truck - less than the value of 
2 old Oldsmobiles.
     
Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
     

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #266
********************************
 
