
oldsmobile-digest          Saturday, 27 July 1996       Volume 01 : Number 248


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:43:44 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: '66 442 found 

          
(Everyone I have talked to who has dealt with Ed has been, ohhh how 
should I say this... "less than pleased".  In fact, I am pretty sure they 
won't let him advertise in JWO due to complaints.)
          

          And I thought I was the only one who felt that way!  I 
          bought a console and a set of SSII (supposedly!) wheels from 
          him years ago (circa 1980).  The console was damaged and the 
          wheels didn't match (some were later model with the snap-in 
          centers.  And, yes, his prices always seem to be 2 to 5 
          times what the items are worth.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 12:44:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds featured in "Car Collector" Magazine

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> I'll try to dig out my copy again tonight and post more specifics real 
> soon...

Agree with your comments, Andy.  Great pix, lousy text.

If you can't locate it, I think I've got it.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:55:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: Fender

Ed,
I don't, at this time, have any good 69 fenders. They go quick. I've kept all 
with little rust holes in the bottom since they might be worth fixing.
At this late date, I haven't decided how I'm driving to Atlanta. If I don't 
bring a car I probably won't have room. Guess I'll decide in the next few days  
if I want to drag a car behind me for 900 miles.
I haven't received your check yet.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 05:12:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Another busy weekend under the Toros

Robert J. Barry wrote:
> 
>  Next will be the deep wine, candy apple paint job and blower.
> > LOL!
> >
> >All for now!
> >
> >Sparky
> 
> 
> I thought a blower with a pair of Predator carbs on top would look great on
> an early Toro: induction a full 6" above the *roof* of the car!
> 
> -----------
> - Bob Barry
>

Bob:

Wouldn't the FAA frown on sucking 747's out of the sky especially after 
the recent tragedys in FL & NY?  Of course, how would they know when 
they are looking for a rocket going up after the planes; not one sucking 
them down & swallowing them up.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 12:29:36 -0300
Subject: Circuit board for 67' ralley pac

Hello everybody, i'm looking for a circuit board for my friends 67'
4-4-2 (my old car) anybody have one in working condition?? by the way
my 69'4-4-2 is almost back on the road!! Headers installed,hei,torker
holley 750 dp,holley fuel pump,brakes are done!! Whew!!!! It's now
time to dial it all in and let ger rip!! I'll post how she runs later
next week, happy oldsmobiling!! 


                             MIKE BRADY 1969 442

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 05:30:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Another busy weekend under the Toros

Toronado66@aol.com wrote:
> 
>
> 
> BTW....you can still get those Wide Ovals yet if you really want!!!!!!   Look
> in Hemmings by the tire section.....they still make tham all I believe!!!!!!
> 
> Later,
> 
> Sparky


Those original Wide Ovals w/2 ply- 4 ply rating things are still on my 
1969 AMX.  They are the worst tires in existance when compared to a 
modern radial.  They don't corner, they don't wear, they are poor in the 
rain, & they look very nice.

Bill culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 05:36:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet?

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
>
> >
> Some of you may know this, some may not...
> 
> To put out a fire in the carb, get in the car, mash the gas pedal to the
> floor and hold it there, and crank the engine.  The fire will get sucked
> down inside the engine (combustion chambers), where it can do no harm and
> will go away!
> 
> Interesting/amusing story to go along with this:  I was leaving the local
> Auto Zone one day, and out in the parking lot was a man running frantically
> around his car (with the hood up), screaming for some water.  There was a
> small carb fire, and a few people were standing there watching him.  I ran
> over to his car, did exactly as described above, and VOILA, no more fire.
> Didn't even get a thank you from the guy!
> --
> Dave Paulison          


I haven't heard that, but it sure makes sense.  Do you think that you 
didn't get a thank you because the guy wanted a fire & witnesses?

Bill Culp
Deactur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Guy_Graziano/Berlex_Laboratories@ccgate.berlex.com (Guy Graziano/Berlex Laboratories)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:04:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Circuit board for 67' ralley pac

  Hi!

  I am looking to add to my toy OLDS collection.

  I have a 67 Cutlass Convertible and there is only one toy/model of that
  car.

  Anybody have anything they would part with?

  Models/Promos/Slot Cars/Diecast?

  I have a Husky 65 Starfire 1/64th scale diecast car to trade if
  interested.

------------------------------

From: Guy_Graziano/Berlex_Laboratories@ccgate.berlex.com (Guy Graziano/Berlex Laboratories)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:04:00 -0300
Subject: Mini - Olds'

  Hi!

  I am looking to add to my toy OLDS collection.

  I have a 67 Cutlass Convertible and there is only one toy/model of that
  car.

  Anybody have anything they would part with?

  Models/Promos/Slot Cars/Diecast?

  I have a Husky 65 Starfire 1/64th scale diecast car to trade if
  interested.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:21:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Another busy weekend under the Toros

Bill,
I agree with your assessment of the tires.  You forgot to mention that they're 
in the $130 each range.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:32:27 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

At 05:40 PM 7/25/96 -0300, you wrote:
>> I create the FAQ in MS Word, and export text with line breaks.

<CHEER>

>H-T-M-L!!  H-T-M-L!!  Gimme an 'H!' .....

</CHEER>

hmm, maybe someone should suggest to Netscape?? Couldn't be any more
annoying than the blink tag.

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:10:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Another busy weekend under the Toros

Lloyd Culp wrote:
> 
> They don't corner, they don't wear, they are poor in the rain,
> & they look very nice.

"It is better to look good than to drive good."

                     -- with apologies to Billy Crystal

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: curly@sgi.net
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 11:30:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 1985 Olds 98 exhaust glows ... 

At 04:08 PM 7/25/96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>curly@sgi.net wrote:
>
>> restricting it. you better have changed the converter before you changed the
>> muffler or it is probably plugged!
>
>Am I reading this wrong, or is there something I don't know here?
>Are you saying that the converter is plugged because a new muffler was
>put on, or...???
>
>Ed Atlee			'77 Cutlass Supreme
>eda@dl.tc.faa.gov		'84 Hurst/Olds
>	R O C K E T	P O W E R E D ! !
>
>
>
not at all if muffler was changed first, then the car was driven for a while 
and the converter went bad by whatever reason....very often when the converter 
is bad it breaks into pieces...this could lodge broken pieces in the muffler
same cenerio happen to a friend once...had to chang the muffler again!

Jeff
Quad 4 

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:34:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '66 442 found

Well, okay,
Now that several people have made comments about the 66 442 tripower owner, I 
will also.
I sell parts and cars, and I've always said I don't want anybody mad at me over 
cars and parts. I've told people if they're not happy with what I sell them, 
tell me. However, all parts people don't feel this way. There are a lot of 
flakes selling parts and it's  "let the buyer beware ".
This 66 442 owner is not the only one that treats people like this, and I've 
learned over the years who to do business with and who not.

Art Fuller 

------------------------------

From: curly@sgi.net
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 11:40:32 -0300
Subject: Re: rotators 

At 11:32 PM 7/25/96 -0300, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-07-25 21:33:12 EDT, you write:
>
><< How do rotators work??  What is gained/lost by using them?  Are they only
> used on BB heads, or can they be used on SB heads?
> --
> Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
> dpauliso@metrolink.net
>  >>
>
>
>Hi Dave:
>
>Rotators are used to continuously change the valve/valve seat relationship.
> They came about as the lead was removed from fuels.  These plus hardened
>seats extend valve life.  Rotators were, and still are, used in truck and
>other HD applications. Nothing unusual about there eventual use in passenger
>cars.
>
>They weigh a bunch more than non-rotator retainers so are usually removed for
>hi-revving drag engines.  Removal also allows the use of longer springs or a
>spacer is required to install the stock springs correctly.
>
>Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
>'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
>Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
>
>
>
>
i have a quad 4 with the rotators and agree with the above,,on my engine
they do not contribute
to any valve train weight...cuz they are positioned at the bottom of the
vavle spring...and when 
i rebuilt the motor at 170k the valves weren't leaking via gas test!!!! must
be doing something
right

Jeff
>

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:44:18 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

Todd Hall wrote:
> 
> <CHEER>
> </CHEER>

Ha-ha.  I like that one!

> Couldn't be any more annoying than the blink tag.

Or frames.  Or those stupid moving banners at the bottom.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:49:03 -0300
Subject: Flaming Oldsmobiles 

>Dave Paulison wrote:
>> I ran
>> over to his car, did exactly as described above, and VOILA, no more fire.
>> Didn't even get a thank you from the guy!
>
>I haven't heard that, but it sure makes sense.  Do you think that you 
>didn't get a thank you because the guy wanted a fire & witnesses?

No, I think he was just distracted by the unusual sight of his car on
fire. It tends to focus one's attention.

Okay, my Olds flambe' story: My wife and I are on the way home one night,
making our way through the traffic in the touristy River North area of
the city, and as we're approaching the Ontario St. expressway entrance we
notice flames in the driveup lane of the nearby McDonald's (if you know
Chicago, it was the huge "Rock 'n' Roll McDonald's" on Wells...) There's
what turned out to be a '77 Delta '88 with the hood up and some flames
flickering -- mainly lots of smoke at this point.

So anyway, I'm all full of Good Samaritanship and testosterone that night,
plus I have a full fire extinguisher in my trunk that I bought at a garage
sale for $2 (which should give you an idea of its size, which will be
significant later on), plus this would give me a chance to go tearing
around the streets in my '82 Cutlass with my J.C. Whitney headlight flashers
going. My wife and I exchange glances, and (as Dave Barry says, I believe I
married her in anticipation of this moment) she says, "Go for it!"

Flipped a hidden switch under the dash, the blue Hi-beam light starts
blinking, and the trunk of the car in front is bathed in white lights.
As its driver stares at us in his rear-view mirror, I cut the wheel hard
to the right and gun it down a conveniently-placed alley. No bad guys to
chase or fruitcarts to crash into, so we come shooting out the end into
traffic heading the other way, cut round another corner and we're back
on McDonald's block, bounce hard up the entrance ramp and stop a little
too close to the Delta, which is now smoking its hood insulation.

Cursing my not having a power trunk release, I fumble with the latch,
finally pop it, grab the extinguisher and stride Manfully towards the
flaming Olds, ripping the plastic locking pin off the extinguisher as
I walk and throwing it distastefully behind me. The fire appears to be
coming out the side of the engine, as if it threw a rod through the side
and splattered oil on the exhaust manifold, and a good long blast of
extinguisher smothers the flames just as the woooooshhh is giving out.
Clearly impressed, the fire stays out for at least ten seconds before
we hear a *wooomph*, and we're right back where we started.

At this point I decide that having a real fire extinguisher would be a
grand idea, and communicate via hand gestures and waving my empty one to 
the McDonald's employee gazing through the front window. He looks blank --
evidently they don't have fire extinguishers that small and I certainly
wouldn't want the inconvenience of lugging a _big_ one around -- so I
ask the fire to wait while I go in and explain the concept of firefighting
to the manager, and how the car is currently under their canopy. Somehow
she locates a big one -- I expected at this point to be charged for it --
and I and a small group of fascinated customers march outside with it and
blast the fire into oblivion, just as the first fire truck arrives.

The owner has been standing next to his car all this time, and is a lot
more concerned over whether his car will start again (we recommend against
it) than where all those fire extinguishers were coming from. He had also
lost his place in line at the drive-up window. So I decided not to stick 
around in case the manager wanted me to pay for refilling _their_ fire
extinguisher which _I_ had gone and sprayed all over someone's car, someone
who hadn't even _bought_ anything, and we hit the road again. It was fun.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:17:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Flaming Oldsmobiles

I have two "flaming Oldsmobile" story to impart.  I think I sent these around 
a year or so ago, but here they are again:  story #2 is pretty fun.

story #1:
I was driving around downtown Atlanta (sometime around '90) in my 64 F-85.
I comment to my buddy in the passenger seat that the Olds need a tune up,
as it coughed a little at WOT pulling away from some redneck in a chevy
pickup.   after a pit stop at a record store, we climb in the Olds, crank
it.  as soon as it starts up, it gives a pop back through the carb
and stalls.  I restart and we are on our way...  20 yards later (still in 
the parking lot) the 330 sputters and dies... and won't restart..., opps
fuel is on "E",  looks like we ran out of gas.  we coast to a stop, climb
out and head over to a gas station across the street.  My buddy says
"hey man, your car is smoking!",  i look at it and there is smoke coming
out from under the hood.  pop the hood, and Whoa!  the open air element
is on fire!!  we jump around a lot,  then my buddy runs across the street
to the gas station.  mean while some old farmer looking guy says "shut
the hood, it will smother it!",  I'm panicking.. so sounds like a good 
idea! with the hood down it takes about 10 seconds before the paint on the 
hood starts bubbling.  up the with hood!!  and that damn farmer is nowhere
to be seen!!  I look across the street and see the station attendant giving
my buddy a hard time (i guess he didnt want to give up the fire extinguisher)
so I run the little grocery store "i need a fire extinguisher!!"  all the
asians working there stare at me with jaws open "duh?"  "fire extinguisher!
ya got one??"  no reply I run behind the registers looking for one, so
luck in the managers office, no luck.  back out side I go to join up with
buddy,  he got the F.E. and we quickly put the fire out.

Damage: bubbled paint on hood, spark plug wires melted, detent cable
for the th350 melted.  fix: $75 to repaint hood, $20 for cables $30 for tow.

Lesson:  when the car needs a tune up, do it!  replace air cleaner 
elements (I recently saw that 50% of car fires are due to dirty filters
catching on fire).  buy an extinguisher!

story #2:
same car two years later...  doing 75mph at 7am headed back to Athens
on 316.  sniff sniff.  "boy that ruck up ahead sure smells like gasoline!"
15 seconds later... smoke is billowing into my face up through
the steering column!  on the brakes HARD... the big disks slow me down fast,
at about 10mph I head off on to the dirt shoulder,  the brake pedal goes to the
floor, wipers come on, and the car gets a little sideways  on the 
shoulder (remember I'm stopping as fast as I can)  grap the cabin mounted
extinguisher (I learned from the first time),  okay. at this point,  the
car is stopped and flames are coming out from under the hood... I pop 
open the hood (singe-ing hair on my hands)  with the hood open, flames
are two feet high, all over the motor and firewall!!  My extiguisher
does 75% on the fire....  it drys out, and I'm still looking at 1 foor
flames on parts on the motor...  all of a sudden a could construction
workers are no the scene!!  they were behind me and saw the whole thing,
they pulled off further down the road and were running toward me!  one
have an extinguisher and the other had a giant water jug (the 10 gallon
"Gott" type you see construction workers drinking out of..)  woosh the
fire was out!  these guys even drove me back up the road 5 miles to 
phone.  

Cause:  a pressed in plug on the old 4GC decided "I've been in the carb
for 20 some odd years, screw it!  I quit!"  and blows out the front,
this is a plug on the fule pump side of the needle valve, so the fuel pump
jsut gushed gas out the front of the carb,  into the fan,  which spread it
everywhere!    the brake pedal went to the floor because, I guess the fliud
was boiling (the MC was on fire), the wipers went on because the flaming
wiper motor shorted!  

Damage:  hood repaint (again), new wires, dist. cap, wiper motor, and I 
had to rebuild entire wiring harness from scratch....  before repainting
the hood, it was $60 worth of damage not counting the the $75 tow.

lesson:  you need a big fire extinguisher, in fact a fire extinguisher
can be too big!  4GC's suck at a lot of things, and retaining gas can
be on of them!!!

have a good weekend everyone!

Doug Ahern      doug@cosmic.uga.edu  1964 F-85 Cutlass 
http://www.cosmic.uga.edu/doug.html  1969 Dart 
Sys Admin, COSMIC, Univ. of Georgia  1974 Satellite ex-cop car

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:16:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: Fender

Ed,
I went to storage to check on the dashes I have. My best dash is a light olive 
color.  I would recommend taking this dash and dying it black. (Piece of cake to 
dye anything black).  Let me know your thoughts on this.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: eda@dl.tc.faa.gov
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:15:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet? 

Now y'all have me paranoid!  (Yikes, a Yankee who says y'all? ;-)

> Epoxy is good stuff, but it is no panasea...especially in this application.
> However, not to be a total bonehead about this, I agree that there are few
> alternative fixes. If there were, we would know about it by now. Perhaps this
> disscussion will spur the minds of the readers to spend a few hours on the
> bench and really come up with a permanent solution to this temporary fix we
> are all relegated to use. You subscribers with machinist and metalurgy
> backgrounds, take a stab at it! You could even make a few bucks off of this!

All right, a question or two:

1) These plugs are not available *at all* in new condition?

2) Do all Q-jets share this problem, all years, models, etc.?

3) What do professional, carb-specialist type shops do?

I guess what I'm saying is, there's a lot of Q-jets out there, and it seems to
me that if they all share this problem, well, I'm just pretty amazed that
*nobody* is cashing in on this...

I have 3 Q-jets, one of which I took off a '76 Cutlass and had "professionally"
(why mess up a car yourself? Let us mess it up *professionally*! ;) rebuilt,
only to find that the brake booster fittings/lines were different from '76-'77
(ones at the base of the carb in the rear, one's on the manifold :-[ ) but 
anyway it'd be interesting to take a look at them (since it's out of the car
already).

> Years ago this was no problem however, as you could go to the local parts
> house and buy that part of the carb for 15 bucks, slap it together, and it
> run for another couple of years. Now, they are not made and you have to seal
> them yourself. I have already split a carb and found them rattleing around.

So you'd buy just the plugs, or the whole piece that they sit in?  If just
the plugs, is it expansion/contraction that causes them to leak in the first place?  Not sure I understand what causes the initial leakage; so maybe my 
assumption that new plugs alone would fix the problem (temporarily) is
not valid?

Ed Atlee			'77 Cutlass Supreme
eda@dl.tc.faa.gov		'84 Hurst/Olds
	R O C K E T	P O W E R E D ! !

------------------------------

From: eda@dl.tc.faa.gov
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:24:53 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: New Motor Considerations 

> in 8.0:1, 180 hp, which Tom and others will recognize as the high-output
> 307 in '83-'84 H/Os and '85 442s.  Assuming an intrepid engine-builder
> was trying to get the most from his 307, I said 9.0 new CR, and it came
> back 186 HP, +4%.  Hmm....disappointing.  Plug in 9.5 new CR (pushing
> the limits of premium unleaded), came back with 189 HP, which is +5%.

> I don't know if this surprises anyone else, but _I_ was under the
> impression that compression ratio was more important to power than this

Uh, yeah, so was I!  I mean, why bother with high CR's at all, and the 
expense of premium &/or booster; a whole 1.0 of compression, according to
this, is maybe a little better than a K&N filter or similar "cheap" mods.

I sure hope someone can disprove these numbers, I'd like to think that 
there's a bit more room there...

Anyone?

Ed Atlee			'77 Cutlass Supreme
eda@dl.tc.faa.gov		'84 Hurst/Olds
	R O C K E T	P O W E R E D ! !

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 06:15:58 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet? 

     Okay, I'm spurred :-)  Does anyone know the exact (or even 
     approximate) dimensions of the hole we're trying to plug (hole 
     diameter and casting thickness)?  I've never seen one in the flesh 
     (well, I guess I have but I didn't know what I was looking at at the 
     time).  Is there room for the "plug" or (whatever fix is determined 
     best) to extend beyond the bottom of the carb a bit if necessary?
     
     The reason I ask is that my father sells fasteners of all sorts for a 
     living.  I'll ask him if he has any ideas.  You'd be amazed at the 
     sorts of nifty gadgets they make for these purposes.
     
     Tom.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet?
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/26/96 1:45 AM


alternative fixes. If there were, we would know about it by now. Perhaps this 
disscussion will spur the minds of the readers to spend a few hours on the 
bench and really come up with a permanent solution to this temporary fix we 
are all relegated to use. You subscribers with machinist and metalurgy 
backgrounds, take a stab at it! You could even make a few bucks off of this!
 (: 
     
Gregory G. Kalkhoff  (aka Sparky)
     
     
     

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:46:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Another busy weekend under the Toros

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> I agree with your assessment of the tires.  You forgot to mention that they're
> in the $130 each range.
> 
> Art Fuller

Art:

Mine came on  the car new.  I didn't know they were so expensive!

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:52:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '66 442 found

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> Well, okay,
> Now that several people have made comments about the 66 442 tripower owner, I
> will also.
> I sell parts and cars, and I've always said I don't want anybody mad at me over
> cars and parts. I've told people if they're not happy with what I sell them,
> tell me. However, all parts people don't feel this way. There are a lot of
> flakes selling parts and it's  "let the buyer beware ".
> This 66 442 owner is not the only one that treats people like this, and I've
> learned over the years who to do business with and who not.
> 
> Art Fuller


Art:

I was not sure how far this would go when it started, but it has been 
very civil.  The comments have been a little rough though obviously 
correct & to the point.  I appreciate this kind of information without 
maliciously damaging someone's reputation.  It is not often that this 
type of topic can be discussed in America without being down right rude. 
 Thanks everyone.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:59:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Flaming Oldsmobiles

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> 
> >
> >
>
> Okay, my Olds flambe' story: My wife and I are on the way home one night,
> making our way through the traffic in the touristy River North area of
> the city, and as we're approaching the Ontario St. expressway entrance we
> notice flames in the driveup lane of the nearby McDonald's (if you know
> Chicago, it was the huge "Rock 'n' Roll McDonald's" on Wells...) There's
> what turned out to be a '77 Delta '88 with the hood up and some flames
> flickering -- mainly lots of smoke at this point.
> 
> So anyway, I'm all full of Good Samaritanship and testosterone that night,
> plus I have a full fire extinguisher in my trunk that I bought at a garage
> sale for $2  It was fun.
> 
> Andrew C. Green         


Wow!  Batman couldn't have done better.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
- -- 
SLTG

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:44:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Flaming Oldsmobiles 

>Damage:  hood repaint (again), new wires, dist. cap, wiper motor, and I 
>had to rebuild entire wiring harness from scratch....  before repainting
>the hood, it was $60 worth of damage not counting the the $75 tow.
>
>lesson:  you need a big fire extinguisher

Gee, I thought the lesson would be to not repaint your hood until
your car has caught fire at least twice...  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:05:56 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

At 02:44 PM 7/26/96 -0300, you wrote:

Or those stupid moving banners at the bottom.
>
>The 66 Toro and Mike
>

Yeea.....Java Sucks

       --The Rainman

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:02:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet? 

> From oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca Fri Jul 26 03:00 EDT 1996
> Date: 	Fri, 26 Jul 1996 03:58:58 -0300
> From: Toronado66@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> Subject: Re: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet?
> << Did you ever try that Marine-Tex on the Qjet that we talked about?
>   >>
> 
> 
> Nope, not yet. But, I will look for it soon!  (:
> 
> Sparky

I was thinking about trying the gas tank repair stuff they sell at
auto parts stores for my well-plugs.  Any thoughts on that?

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 07:45:54 -0300
Subject: Floor Mats 

     Does anyone know a source for NOS floormats for an '84 H/O?  Or even a 
     part number for me?  The guy at the olds dealer was clueless, couldn't 
     find a part number for the stock ones, but had plenty of aftermarket 
     ones to offer me!  I'm guessing that it's a pretty generic G-body 
     part, since it just says "GM" in the center.
     
     Thanks in advance!
     
     Tom L.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:22:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Flaming Oldsmobiles

This is not the only story that goes with the first fire story.  Somewhere, to 
this day, some farmer tells his friends about the city boy that he talked into 
closing his hood on the open flame, knowing it would burn the paint off the 
hood.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:15:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Floor Mats 

>     Does anyone know a source for NOS floormats for an '84 H/O?  Or even a 
>     part number for me?  The guy at the olds dealer was clueless, couldn't 
>     find a part number for the stock ones, but had plenty of aftermarket 
>     ones to offer me!  I'm guessing that it's a pretty generic G-body 
>     part, since it just says "GM" in the center.

Speaking as one who bought the correct carpeted ones for my '82 (well, we
looked 'em up in the catalog and ordered them -- this was back around 1989
when they still had part numbers for them -- and they arrived with GM
packaging on them), they _do_ say "GM" in the center. If you want "Hurst"
on them, you might be more likely to find that in an aftermarket mat...?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:32:57 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

At 05:40 PM 7/25/96 -0300, you wrote:

>> I create the FAQ in MS Word, and export text with line breaks.
>

Shawn,

I've been playing with this too, just for grins. I've got the whole thing
converted to HTML with links from the main titles to the corresponding
sections. If you want me to send you what I've done so far, let me know. 


Todd Hall
thall@en.com

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:28:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Flaming Oldsmobiles

> 
> >Damage:  hood repaint (again), new wires, dist. cap, wiper motor, and I 
> >had to rebuild entire wiring harness from scratch....  before repainting
> >the hood, it was $60 worth of damage not counting the the $75 tow.
> >
> >lesson:  you need a big fire extinguisher
> 
> Gee, I thought the lesson would be to not repaint your hood until
> your car has caught fire at least twice...  :-)
> 

that too!  for sure!

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:35:17 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet? 

          
          
All right, a question or two:
          
1) These plugs are not available *at all* in new condition?

          Jiffy and other (Standard?) carb rebuild kit manufacturers 
          still sell replacement plugs with o-rings.  There are two 
          different diameters (early (67 and earlier) and late (68 and 
          up).  I think the early plugs are smaller.  See below for 
          installation info.
          
2) Do all Q-jets share this problem, all years, models, etc.?

          Yes, but there are two types of factory well plugs.  Early 
          units use stamped steel plugs (look like mini freeze plugs), 
          while later units use machined aluminum plugs (about 3/8 
          inch thick) which are pressed in and have the lip of the 
          well casting spun down to retain the plug.  These later 
          units are supposed to be more leak resistant, but both 
          suffer the problem.
          
3) What do professional, carb-specialist type shops do?

          Sell you a rebuilt carb...Seriously, places like The Carb 
          Shop recommend the o-ring replacement plugs.
          
I guess what I'm saying is, there's a lot of Q-jets out there, and it seems to 
me that if they all share this problem, well, I'm just pretty amazed that 
*nobody* is cashing in on this...

          Well, they are...
          
(...snip...)So you'd buy just the plugs, or the whole piece that they sit 
in?  

          I think the original post meant that you could buy the whole 
          carb body, but now you can buy just the plugs.
          
If just the plugs, is it expansion/contraction that causes them to leak in the 
first place?  Not sure I understand what causes the initial leakage; so maybe my
assumption that new plugs alone would fix the problem (temporarily) is not 
valid?
          It appears that the factory plugs (either configuration) are 
          just pressed in, so thermal stress, vibration, and corrosion 
          (especially with some of today's gasoline additives) can 
          lead to the leakage.  The advantage of these aftermarket 
          units is the rubber o-ring, which positively seals the plug.
          
          Installation of the o-ring plug starts with the disassembly 
          of the carb.  The two well plugs are on a protruding boss on 
          the bottom of the main body/float bowl casting.  If your 
          carb is the later, spun-in type you must first file or grind 
          off the spun portion.  Drill a small hole in the center of 
          each plug and thread a sheet metal screw into the plug, with 
          the head of the screw protruding.  Use a Vice-Grip or 
          similar tool to pull out the old plug using the screw.  TAKE 
          CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE INNER BORE OF THE WELLS DURING THIS 
          PROCESS.
          
          Since you've had to disassemble the carb to get this far, 
          thoroughly clean the carb to remove any metal chips.  Check 
          the edge of the well holes for burrs and remove if 
          necessary.  Lightly lubricate the o-rings on the new plugs  
          with grease and press into place.  Note that each new plug 
          has a boss on the outboard (bottom as installed) face.  When 
          the throttle body is reinstalled on the float bowl, these 
          bosses will bear against the throttle body and ensure that 
          the plugs remain properly seated.  (Note:  Some carb rebuild 
          kits include a black sponge kidney-shaped "gasket" which 
          fits into the recess in the throttle plate directly below 
          the well plugs and theoretically helps seal them.  Throw 
          this away when using the o-ring plugs, as it is not needed 
          and may interfere with the seating of the new plugs.)  
          Reassemble the carb (you DID buy a rebuild kit, didn't you?) 
          and reinstall.  End of leaky well plug concerns forever.
          
          Now, having said all this, in 22 years of driving Q-Jet 
          equipped Oldsmobiles (and other GM cars), I have _NEVER_ had 
          a leaky well plug.  The only reason that I installed the 
          o-ring plugs on my 70 W-30 was that I suspected this was the 
          cause of a massive flooding problem, which turned out not to 
          be the case.  I will say that the o-ring plugs have worked 
          out beautifully.
 
          Be sure to look for other problems.  Today's gas additives 
          will positively destroy OE foam carb floats - get a metal 
          replacement.  Also, lately I've had a problem with what I 
          suspec are gas additives causing corrosion of the pot metal 
          float bowl casting.  This causes large pits inside the float 
          bowl and results in large pieces of crud floating inside the 
          carb.  Naturally these pieces will find their way between 
          the needle and seat, resulting in the flooding condition I 
          mentioned on my W-30.  I'm not saying that well plugs don't 
          ever leak, just that there seems to be a lot of "me two-ism" 
          on the list.  Don't overlook other potential problems.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          

------------------------------

From: R4C442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:47:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Rhodes Lifters: Yeah or Nay? 

Hey Darren!
        I put Rhoades lifters and the Mondello roller-rocker kit in at the
same time and the net result was about two tenths of a second. Can't say what
the proportion of which-did-what was, but the engine pulls better off the
line. Am running a .510 lift
292 duration Sig Erson cam and have had no problems.
         Incidently, if a 442 is quiet enough to hear the lifters, then you
probably don't need them!


Ron Forsee (R4C442@aol)
65 442        (bought it new!)

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:57:25 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

I know to all you computor whiz's that this will sound like a stupid question, 
but what is FAQ? I only want to learn so much about computors, so if you can put 
your "computoreeze" into layman's language I'd appreciate it.

Art Fuller
jargon impaired

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 20:12:48 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> ... but what is FAQ? 

"Frequently Asked Questions"  --  like this one.   :)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:18:16 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

> I know to all you computor whiz's that this will sound like a stupid question,
> but what is FAQ? I only want to learn so much about computors, so if you can put 
> your "computoreeze" into layman's language I'd appreciate it.
> 
> Art Fuller

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

It's just a document loaded with useful general information that seems
to be discussed a lot.  Rather that continually rehashing old topics,
we can refer someone to the FAQ, and concentrate on things like:
"Toronado Ownership : Disease or Addiction?"

The Keeper (and primary writer) of our FAQ is David Brown
(dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu).

A copy is also on Bryceman's Web Page http://www.442.com

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 20:33:38 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

Robert Lawrence wrote:
> 
> "Toronado Ownership : Disease or Addiction?"

Both.  And that's a FAQ!     ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 18:28:06 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

Frequently asked questions.  That's easy enough.  Thank you.  I just kept 
reading technical e mails that I shouldn't concern myself with.  I got the jest 
of the conversations that there was some sort of list of infromation that might 
interest me. I'll check Bryceman's page to see the Oldsmobile FAQ.
Thanks to all of you for educating me.
I guess to everybody that knew what this meant it would be comparable to
 somebody asking what NOS means.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:29:32 -0300
Subject: Re: To forge or not to forge...

>Everyone seems to like forged cranks and pistons, but are 
>they really neccessary?

Yes, for any performance engine, bits of cast pieces broken off of the 
piston skirt will make you a very unhappy camper on your brand new engine 
after the first time you jumped on it...

>I can live with the extra expense if it's worth it as I want a
>strong engine I can race occasionally and not have to worry
>about, but what are the downsides to forged pistons?  Any-
>thing besides cost?

The cost is minor for the pistons. The forged crank can be had for a 
"reasonable" price in comparison to a forged 455 crank. For occaisonal 
race usage, I would advise you to do what I have done with my cast crank. 
Crossdrill and chamfer all of the mains, radius and micropolish the main 
sides (nearest the counter-balances), nitride the crank and then have it 
straightened. If you think you are going to be pretty rough on your new 
engine, pick up the forged unit AND perform all of the above operations. 
As far as I'm concerned, there are no downfalls to any forged components 
in a engine that are direct replacements for cast pieces.

>I'm aware that the cranks for the SB
>olds are cast, but I just read an article from the Feb 80
>Hot Rod that states the forged crank from a '64-'67 330 is
>a direct replacement for the SB, but will require a different
>flexplate bolt pattern and you will have to chamfer the big
>end of the rods.  Any downsides to a forged crank from a 330
>other than the machining needed for the rods?

Makes that engine longevity for the crank go to approx. 7000 RPM... As 
long as the rest of the assembly has been validated to receive that kind 
of punishment! You will also lose 30 cid. Losing torque may not be a good 
reason to move to a 330 crank for the increased rpms on the street, the 
strip is a different question as the torque curve can be moved with a 
non-streetable cam selection.



<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:38:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Leaky Well Plugs in Qjet?

JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> All right, a question or two:
> 
> 1) These plugs are not available *at all* in new condition?
> 
>           
> 
> 2) Do all Q-jets share this problem, all years, models, etc.?
> 
>           
> 
> 3) What do professional, carb-specialist type shops do?
> 
>           Sell you a rebuilt carb...Seriously, places like The Carb
>           Shop recommend the o-ring replacement plugs.
> 
>
> 
> If just the plugs, is it expansion/contraction that causes them to leak in the
> first place?  I will say that the o-ring plugs have worked
>           out beautifully.
> 
>           Be sure to look for other problems.  Today's gas additives
>           will positively destroy OE foam carb floats - get a metal
>           replacement.  Also, lately I've had a problem with what I
>           suspec are gas additives causing corrosion of the pot metal
>           float bowl casting.  This causes large pits inside the float
>           bowl and results in large pieces of crud floating inside the
>           carb.  Naturally these pieces will find their way between
>           the needle and seat, resulting in the flooding condition I
>           mentioned on my W-30.  I'm not saying that well plugs don't
>           ever leak, just that there seems to be a lot of "me two-ism"
>           on the list.  Don't overlook other potential problems.
> 
>           Joe Padavano
>           
> Thanks for the advice & explanation.

bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 20:59:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Floor Mats

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>      Does anyone know a source for NOS floormats for an '84 H/O?  Or even a
>      part number for me?  The guy at the olds dealer was clueless, couldn't
>      find a part number for the stock ones, but had plenty of aftermarket
>      ones to offer me!  I'm guessing that it's a pretty generic G-body
>      part, since it just says "GM" in the center.
> 
>      Thanks in advance!
> 
>      Tom L. Tom, try a company called a little different phone# 407-640-4135,
 Fax #407-640-5571 good luck!!!

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:12:46 -0300
Subject: Re: To forge or not to forge... 

At 06:29 PM 7/26/96 -0400, you wrote:

>Makes that engine longevity for the crank go to approx. 7000 RPM... As 
>long as the rest of the assembly has been validated to receive that kind 
>of punishment! You will also lose 30 cid. Losing torque may not be a good 
>reason to move to a 330 crank for the increased rpms on the street, the 
>strip is a different question as the torque curve can be moved with a 
>non-streetable cam selection.

No loss of ci at all; EVERY Olds small-block used the same 3.385" stroke
crank. Every one, from the 260 to the 403. Perhaps the counterweights would
be different, but the Olds is externally balanced, so maybe not that
different (i.e. non-interchangeable).

The trick is dropping in the 425's forged crank...

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: <tc75918@hpr169.mdhc.mdc.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:19:27 -0300
Subject: Re: To forge or not to forge...

[snip...]

Sounds like forged pistons are well worth the extra cost.


> 
> >I'm aware that the cranks for the SB
> >olds are cast, but I just read an article from the Feb 80
> >Hot Rod that states the forged crank from a '64-'67 330 is
> >a direct replacement for the SB, but will require a different
> >flexplate bolt pattern and you will have to chamfer the big
> >end of the rods.  Any downsides to a forged crank from a 330
> >other than the machining needed for the rods?
> 
> Makes that engine longevity for the crank go to approx. 7000 RPM... As 
> long as the rest of the assembly has been validated to receive that kind 
> of punishment! You will also lose 30 cid. Losing torque may not be a good 
> reason to move to a 330 crank for the increased rpms on the street, the 
> strip is a different question as the torque curve can be moved with a 
> non-streetable cam selection.
> 

Why would using the 330 crank give a higher rpm, lower torque, and 30
cubes fewer displacement?  The article stated that its dimensions were
the same as the 350s (and 403 and all SBO).  As someone else kindly 
answered in another thread, both have a stroke of 3.385" (correct me if 
I'm wrong here), so cid, rpm, and torque wouldn't change.  I'm just look-
ing for a forged crank to use.  Or is there a forged SBO crank available 
for the 403?  I was under the impression that there either wasn't or were
very expensive.  (The article quoted $50 for the 330 crank in 1980.)

Also, does anyone know why Olds changed the bolt pattern for the flex
plate?


- --Dan

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:39:05 -0300
Subject: Rear end dope

I went to change the dope in the rear end of a 442 that I have had for a while
and low and behold the screw was 100% stripped out.  Some nice suprise, anybody
know it you can refill it thru the vent tube on the right hand axle?

Mike
Kennesaw, Georgia

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 12:16:17 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Floor Mats 

     What you got sounds just like what I'm looking for.  They don't say 
     "Hurst" or even "Olds" on them, just "GM" in the center of each pad.  
     They're rubber with carpeting over them, except for under the gas 
     pedal where it's just rubber.
     
Don't suppose you got a part number still?  Maybe I should just try another 
dealer that might have a clue?

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Floor Mats
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    7/26/96 11:46 AM
     
Speaking as one who bought the correct carpeted ones for my '82 (well, we 
looked 'em up in the catalog and ordered them -- this was back around 1989 
when they still had part numbers for them -- and they arrived with GM 
packaging on them), they _do_ say "GM" in the center. If you want "Hurst" 
on them, you might be more likely to find that in an aftermarket mat...?
     

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 21:34:54 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ 

>Frequently asked questions.  That's easy enough.  Thank you.  I just kept
>reading technical e mails that I shouldn't concern myself with.  I got the
>jest
>of the conversations that there was some sort of list of infromation that
>might
>interest me. I'll check Bryceman's page to see the Oldsmobile FAQ.
>Thanks to all of you for educating me.
>I guess to everybody that knew what this meant it would be comparable to
> somebody asking what NOS means.
>
>Art Fuller

I have been wanting to ask what NOS is....but I won't...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 00:52:30 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
> I guess to everybody that knew what this meant it would be comparable 
> to somebody asking what NOS means.

Huh?     ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 00:58:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '66 442 found

I feel the same way. I hate to get a person mad at me over something I sold
them. If you don't like it, send it back....no problem. I sell parts on the
side from my dad's towing business just to help out people with parts that
others want a bunch for. Actually we sell our cars as a whole to a 3rd party
salvage dealer and I strip the stuff people wants before they go. I save
good parts cars like older Olds, newer Camaros and Firebirds, etc. There are
flakes out there, I have seen them first hand. I only buy from people that I
have good background info on or have known for sometime. I am heading up to
Chris Witt's in the morning to get a 75 H/O parts car. I am taking him a 72
Cutlass S parts car. Hmmmm....I wonder if I should trust Chris.....:) :) ;)

At 11:34 AM 7/26/96 -0300, mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
>Well, okay,
>Now that several people have made comments about the 66 442 tripower owner, I 
>will also.
>I sell parts and cars, and I've always said I don't want anybody mad at me
over 
>cars and parts. I've told people if they're not happy with what I sell them, 
>tell me. However, all parts people don't feel this way. There are a lot of 
>flakes selling parts and it's  "let the buyer beware ".
>This 66 442 owner is not the only one that treats people like this, and I've 
>learned over the years who to do business with and who not.
>
>Art Fuller 

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
1988 Camaro IROC-Z/28 5.0 bowtie power  
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 5.7 rocket power     
HOCA member #0278A...in need of 75 H/O and 442 parts!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 20:18:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Floor Mats

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>      What you got sounds just like what I'm looking for.  They don't say
>      "Hurst" or even "Olds" on them, just "GM" in the center of each pad.
>      They're rubber with carpeting over them, except for under the gas
>      pedal where it's just rubber.
> 
> Don't suppose you got a part number still?  Maybe I should just try another
> dealer that might have a clue?
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: Floor Mats
> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
> 
>
> Don't hesitate to go to the other GM divisions in your area & ask.  You 
might find that the Buick, or Pontiac, or Chevrolet can or will get them 
for you.  If you can get a part #, then a Cadillac or GMC dealer who is 
cooperative is a chance.  I have known a cooperative dealer to put out a 
feeler on their computer lines for even items out of inventory at GM 
proper & get a dealer who has not turned in his stock.  Your dealer can 
get that item from the other one.  It only takes a good parts man - know 
him & treat him right.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 06:48:29 -0300
Subject: Ninety Eight 1964 4DHT (Hurst)

Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
Hi there :) !

I just joined this mailing robot to see if there is some sense in doing
so.
Another reason is my Olds 98 1964 4DHT (Hurst).

My Olds is in good condition and it is in daily use. Because of the
weather
conditions here in Finland, the car MUST be in perfect condition,
specially during the
winter.

Here is a little story of my Olds:
Last year (1995) at february we traveled with my wife and five children
(of which two was our own) to Yllastunturi. The Yllastunturi is a small
'mountain'
in the northern part of Finland. The driving distance was only 600
kilometers
(one mile is about 1.4 kilometers) and we arrived to Yllastunturi about
8 pm.

The journey was pleasing with many beautiful wiews. My wife slept in the
rear seat
with two of the five children. The rest of us fitted comfortably on the
front seat.
Our car is childrens favourite, because they can populate the front seat
and are able
to sit thre side-by-side. (Anybody having similar experiences?).

At the evening (8pm) the temperature was about 8 degrees below zero. In
case You don't
know celcius, the zero point is the point where the water freezes and
100 degrees over
zero is the temperature where the water boils. Anyway, it was not too
cold when we
arrived.

During the night there was two more arrivals to our parking place. One
Saab 900 turbo and
one Mercedes 300 E???.

At the morning the temperature had gone down to 29 degrees below zero.
The Saab
did not make it. Neither did the (diesel) Mercedes. So they plugged the
warmer on
and the fuse on the wall blow up. Near the fuse compartment (on the
cottage wall)
there was a sign that said: "If the fuse has been blown, please contact
the willage
office.....". The problem was that the office was 5 kilometers away.

At this moment I had my olds going and warm.

You should have seen the faces of the poor Saab and Mercedes owners when
we helped
them out of the trouble.

In my country it is almost impossible to get literature, posters etc. of
my
car. Until now I've succeeded with a shopping manual (a good copy of the
real stuff),
and an original brochure in good condition.

It would be nice to have the ORIGINAL shopping manual in good condition.
If there is
somebody who has that manual (it is a 5 volume set) AND is willing to
get rid of it,
i'm willing to "help" him.

The Olds has a clock in it's dashboard and unlike us humans, this thing
seems to go
faster as it becomes older. I have not opened the clock (yet) but i will
do so in the
near future. Any information about that clock is welcome. Please, don't
tell me it
can't be opened. I already know that, but I will open and trim it
anyway!

Does anybody know, how to open the rear quarter lamps for bulb changing?
I'm not willing to use force in opening and want to be sure rather than
break down something.


You can contact me directly via:
Telephone	+358 2040 3439
Email		esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi
Snail-Mail	Esko Ilola
		Ukonkivenpolku 7B5
		01610 VANTAA
		FINLAND

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:12:24 -0300
Subject: Re: FAQ

Dan Lacey writes:
>I have been wanting to ask what NOS is....but I won't...


It could mean a couple of different things today, right?

The standard usage: New Old Stock

The new usage: Nitrous Oxide...


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:12:25 -0300
Subject: Re: To forge or not to forge...

>No loss of ci at all; EVERY Olds small-block used the same 3.385" stroke
>crank. Every one, from the 260 to the 403. Perhaps the counterweights would
>be different, but the Olds is externally balanced, so maybe not that
>different (i.e. non-interchangeable).
>
>The trick is dropping in the 425's forged crank...


Sorry, I confused the 425/455 with replacing 455 internals with 425 
rods/pistons/crank and thought the same was true for 330/350/403...

I stand corrected.

In that case, if you can find yourself a nice 330 crank, drop her in! 
Look for the parting line to be fairly thin and straight to verify that 
it is, in fact, a forging. The parting line for cast parts will be fairly 
wide and irregular.


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:12:21 -0300
Subject: A no show :-(

I'm on my way to the Midland, MI car show...  NOT!

Spent 4 hours cleaning, prepping, washing, waxing interior and out.

Pack the car this morning, everything is done, lock the garage door into 
the house, get in the car, familiar buzzing sound as the door wasn't shut 
yet greets me, turn the key....

NOTHING...

My smile turns to a grimace...

All kinds of battery power, starter no turn, Damn, that sucks!

I figure the solenoid died. Well, I figure it is better that it died in 
my garage rather having it towed from the show...

Now that would REALLY suck!

On to figuring the cause of this recent misfortune.


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael R. Hall                                  Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com                   OCA #17903
The Oldsmobile Stable:    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
         Brought to you by a Apple Power Macintosh 7100/80
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:27:13 -0300
Subject: Muncie parts needed

If anyone has parts for Muncie transmissions or broken Muncies, please 
let me know!  I need to get as many replies to this message as possible 
as soon as possible, so even if it's to say sorry, nope, I need to know 
if its likely i'll find the part i need through this route.  In 
particular I am looking for an undamaged case, excluding tailshaft, with 
a specific size of countershaft.  I have seen two different sizes so far 
and I don't know if there are more so I can provide you with the 
dimension if you have any.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #248
********************************

