To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	09/21/96 09:55:40 AM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #307


oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, 21 September 1996    Volume 01 : Number 307


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun23.draper.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:07:31 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction

> >weeks (not sure of the exact date); perhaps we could all meet at Berjerick
> >(spelling *completely* off there!) Oldsmobile out in Newton Highlands
> >(Needham Street, exit 18 off Rt.128, I believe) late that morning at their
> >resto shop, and then get a bite at the "Big Grinder" sit-down place just
> >down the street (their sandwiches are utterly HUGE!).
> 
> I was down that way a month ago and drove by an Olds dealer that had a 
> gorgerous Olds Convertible.  Couldn't stop since I was on company time and 
was 
> looking for lunch.  Anyway, this olds dealer was off exit 19a by "You Do It 
> Electronics."   I also love how I-95 and 128 south are the same thing.
> 

That's Berejik.  Right off Rt 128 (AKA I-95 to out-of-staters), taking the
exit for U-Do-It electronics an Muzi F*rd.

> There is a club in Danvers.  I'm not a member but the address is:
> 
> Eastern Mass GMO Chapter of the Oldsmobile Club of America
> PO Box 424
> Danver, MA 01923-2055
> 
> Dues are $15 first year, and $10/year after that.
> 
> Roger Borlase
> 

Thanks for the club info, Roger!



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:19:55 -0300
Subject: RE: Antennas (again)

If you need to replace the whole thing, you may want to contact Crutchfield. I 
got one from them for 60.00. 

- ----------
From: 	Tom Lentz[SMTP:tlentz@teknon.com]
Sent: 	Thursday, September 19, 1996 12:40 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Antennas (again)


     Welcome to the world of broken G-body power antennas!  It's a very 
     common problem.  My '84 H/O has the same thing.  The antenna can be 
     moved up or down manually but you can hear the motor whirr trying to 
     move it.  There's a link inside that pushes the antenna up and down.
     
     Before you proceed I would highly recommend visiting the Buick Turbo 
     Regal/GN web site.  I don't have the address with me, but I can get it 
     to you in a few days if you like.  A web search should turn it up.  
     Their power antenna is identical to ours and they have the same 
     problem.  Under the technical archives are complete instructions for 
     removing the antenna, as well as the part number for the repair kit 
     from GM.  The kit is something like $15.  Your other option is a new 
     antenna for $120.  If you don't have web access I can e-mail you the 
     instructions with the repair kit part number in a few days.
     
     I have the parts to fix mine, I just haven't got a round 'tuit yet.  
     If I remember right (printouts are at home, I'm on a business trip 
     right now) you remove the ring from around the top of the antenna, 
     remove the philips screw from the door jamb and remove the bottom few 
     bolts around the fender.  The bottom of the fender can then be pulled 
     out a bit and propped open with a 2x4 to allow the antenna to fall 
     out.  Then take the antenna apart and install the GM repair kit, which 
     involves drilling out some rivets to get the assembly open.  Reinstall 
     by dropping a wire (coat hanger, etc) down the hole and attaching to 
     the unit to hoist it back up.
     
     Sounds like tons-o-fun for the whole family.  Which is why I haven't 
     done mine yet.  Maybe it'll make a good winter project one weekend.
     
     Good luck!  e-mail me if you would like copies of the text from the 
     Buick site regarding this.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Antennas (again)
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/18/96 8:19 PM


The antenna Stuck in the raised position on my '84 Hurst. When I turned the 
radio off the motor continued to run, but no movement in the mast. I 
disconnected the plug to the motor to prevent it from burning out. I assume 
the lead that spools up in the the motor has broken. It's located in the 
right fender. I've tried to get to it but have been unsuccesful. I was told 
to remove screws on rear shield of the wheel well and just bend or pull it 
away to access the antenna motor. After removing screws that shield would 
not separate from the underbody without what I felt might be permanent 
disfiguration. Does any one have any solutions, ideas or instructions to 
replace that lead and/or mast? Am I correct in my assumption on what broke? 
Thanks for the help!
     
Howard Hosenbold
     
     

------------------------------

From: CONCERT COMMUNICATIONS <hlorencic@arrisnet.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:56:07 -0300
Subject: RE: new member introduction

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BTW, are there any New England-based Olds clubs or shows? All I know about
are the ones at the Museum of Transportation in Brookline (usually good
quality shows, though).

You just missed it! Last weekend the Eastern Mass GMO club had an all Olds
show at Rt128 Olds in Wakefield. Berejik also had a spring dust-off in May. 
Both
shows were advertised in Hemmings.

- -Harry
'70 Cutlass S W-31

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------------------------------

From: a210518@texas.dseg.ti.com (john berenyi 956-6310)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:00:51 -0300
Subject: Studding my 67 Cutlass 330 cu in heads??

Has anyone ever done this not using aftermarket high dollar roller kits?

After seeing how Chevy does there's I'm going to do the same.  As you know
lifter preload adjustment is CRITICAL on Olds and after an engine rebuild
its almost impossible to set preloads on all valves accurately with out
binding the pivot bridges.

What I attempt to do is install alloy steel studs and use re-useable locking
nuts to retain the rockers.  Of course you must use the newer style TRW bridges
which are steel.  The unique thing about TRW bridges is that the bridge comes
in 3 pieces so you can discard the bridging portion and use the insert (half-
moon shapes) for the rocker.  The studs of course have to be an alloy steel.
I'm ordering all the studs and special nuts through McMasters Catalog.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

John Berenyi (my other car is a 67 442)
berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:08:00 -0300
Subject: Antennas, antennas everywhere......

After reading all of these '80's Oldsmobile power antenna horror stories, I 
begin to wonder why GM gave up on the windshield antenna.  My  '70 442 
windshield antenna gives good reception and I never have to worry about 
getting it up.
Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:19:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Is the list dead? (delete this right away)

I had checked with my ISP about 9 last night when all access went DOA.  
They said it look to them to be a widespread problem across the Sprint 
backbone.  Was still dead at 3am but seems to be OK this morning

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: QCRL73A@prodigy.com (MR PHIL A KEANE)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:46:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Q- Jet Carbs 

    The best source for parts is probably  Year One---- i will 
forward thier number soon

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:52:40 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:
> 
> Roland,
> 
> It's been a while but here goes nothing:
> 
> Entschuldigung bitte, aber mein Dutsch ist ein bisschen kalt.  Ebensogut,
> Ich glaube das du konnst mich verstehen.  Bitte, Ich muss mir sie du
> vorstellen.  Ich bin Jeff Zeilmann, und Ich habe zwei Oldsmobile.  Was ist
> los dort druben?  Ich denke das Oldsmobile ist  am besten auto.  Stimmst du
> mir zu? (sorry no umlauts on this keyboard)  Ich hatte deine geschichte
> gelesen.
> 
> <<I'd like to say I drive a 1956 Olds 88 2-dr Coupe, but there are engine
> <<and tranny looking like new but still lying besides the car, but I'm a
> very
> <<patient man, so some day the car will run.
> 
> Es geht nichts uber eine 1956 88 2-dr coupe!  Sehr schon!
> Wie viele haben Sie mit das auto zu tuen?  Leider, Ich habe viele 
> arbeit mit meinen autos. Frage: Bist du in der nahe Der Schwartz Wald, 
> oder Baden Baden?  Ich denke das, meinen Vorfahren ist von dort.  Einen 
> tag Ich muss dort zuruckfuhren auf.

Scheisse!  Sehr gut, mein freund.

Das 66 Toro und Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:58:56 -0300
Subject: Convector Solved? Was: 73-77 8-track Q's.

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> So whatcha think?

With the email goofies yesterday, I'm not sure if this got through so 
excuse the repeat if you've already gotten this:

I'm looking at the schematic for the 64 "AM and Stereo AM/FM Radio/Tape"
unit, figure 6-22.  The schematic shows the power output transistors (Q16
and Q17) as remotely mounted from the amplifier board through connector
P6/J6 and is labeled "remote ConVector".
                                ^
Ah-ha!

So it would appear that in the interests of space/airflow/whatever, GM
remotely mounted the output transistor stage.  This would explain why
it's called a Convector: it's a remotely mounted heatsink/transistor
assembly and why there was an alignment procedure for it (prolly idle
current).  It would also explain why the unit in question doesn't work
without it.  (that was where we started wasn't it?)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:04:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Also picked up a black Custom Toronado from their "Challengers" series. 

WHAT????

I'm off to Toys-R-Us...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:10:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Q- Jet Carbs

Timothy P. Urban wrote:
> 
> I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme with a missing U shaped trim piece from the
> driver's side front grille.

Just checked my Qjet.  I'm missing it too.   ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:13:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, antennas everywhere......

R Mullen wrote:
> 
> After reading all of these '80's Oldsmobile power antenna horror 
> stories, I begin to wonder why GM gave up on the windshield antenna.  

I think because they found replacement, when necessary, to be just a 
wee bit more trouble than the mast type.

> My  '70 442 windshield antenna gives good reception and I never have to 
> worry about getting it up.

???

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:46:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Door Mechanism

Nick Davis wrote:
<<Help!  I have a '72 442 W25 convertible (fairly rare car) that I've owned
<<The one problem I have is the driver's side door look mechanism.  The

Nick,

I think I've seen lock mechanism replacement parts in Year One's catalogue.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:23:14 -0300
Subject: 66 98 Wiring Epilogue 

Got my headlights to dash wiring project buttoned up last night. Still
more thoughts on this process should you ever go after it yerself:

1) Have a couple of spare harnesses, I can get 'em cheap from the self
service yards. They are invaluable sources of GM factory connectors and
color coded wires that match your car. Retain your old harness until the
job is done (at least) for reference.

2) Be sure to have the factory wiring diagram for your year/your car.
Colors, circuits, etc. change even for the same model one year apart.

3) If you pull a harness be sure to get as many of the switches (wiper,
ignition, etc. as it still has. They get a lot of use and yours will 
wear out or break someday. Maybe the junk one has better chrome too...

4) Get a bunch of different sizes and colors of heat shrink tubing. Maybe
I'm just picky, but I like the idea of a blue wire covered by blue heat
shrink. That way I won't get confused 10 years from now when I'm changing
it to add an onboard Macintosh in the glove box ;)

5) When you modify the harness, try to use the same color wire as the 
factory would have for the circuit you're modifying. Get it from the
harness. 

6) If you wire in any extra guages, acessories etc. connect them to
the most local branch of the harness possible. That way you won't 
climb all over the car figgering out what you hooked into to get 
a switched circuit lead for your new accessory.

Now I just have to adjust the gear lever, fix the vacuum system (pinched
line) and I'm back in bidness! Drove it to work today. Runs better since
I took out the ignition resistor wire. Next is the power seat and rear 
window/cigar lighter harness. 

Maybe I'll wait a week or two....

cf
6) 12" of heater hose sliced up the middle makes good heavy circuit
insulation. Cut to fit and wrap over bigger wires that could ground.
Safety first.

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 03:28:53 -0300
Subject: ERASE THIS, JUST TESTING 



------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:32:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, antennas everywhere......

> After reading all of these '80's Oldsmobile power antenna horror stories, I 
> begin to wonder why GM gave up on the windshield antenna.  My  '70 442 
> windshield antenna gives good reception and I never have to worry about 
> getting it up.
> Scott Mullen
> '70 442

My understanding is that windshield antennas provide inferior
reception compared to standard outside antennas.  I have
a windshield antenna.  My reception isn't very good.

My understanding, also, is that an FM antenna should be
about 1 meter (3 feet) long.  It has something to do with
it being the same size as the amplitude of an FM radio wave.

I think it helps if it is longer that three feet, but only
if it is a multiple of three feet.  Something like six feet
is better that three feet, but five feet, isn't.

I used to have a better understanding of this, but those
brains cells are MIA.

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: Richard Bonazzoli <bonazzoli@5onflr.ENET.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:26:13 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

>Lets see if we can get together before
> those guys out in Chicago and show them where the REAL Olds men live!!!
> Anyone else in the New England area interested???

Sign me up.  I am from central Mass.

Rich Bonazzoli

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:10:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, if you care (long)

Robert Lawrence wrote:
> 
> My understanding, also, is that an FM antenna should be
> about 1 meter (3 feet) long.  It has something to do with
> it being the same size as the amplitude of an FM radio wave.	
       -- DO NOT READ THE FOLLOWING IF MATH BORES YOU --

Pretty close.  Actually it's the wavelength (or period) rather than the 
amplitude of the radio wave.  The FM band runs from 88 to 108 Hhz, so the 
wavelengths would be:

 Speed of Wave     Freq in                 Feet per     Wave-
  in Miles/Sec    Cycles/Sec                 Mile      length
 -------------   ------------               ------    ----------
     186,000  /  88,000,000  =  0.002114  X  5280  =  11.16 feet
     186,000  / 108,000,000  =  0.001722  X  5280  =   9.09 feet

So the average wavelength for the FM band would be 10.125 feet.  The 
windshield antenna is a half wavelength di-pole and should be 5.0625 feet 
wide.  The mast is a quarter-length mono-pole (or marcone) antenna and 
should be 2.53125 feet high.

However, one BIG thing is not being considered here.  The physcial length 
of the antenna is not the same thing as its electrical length.  By doing 
little tricks like adding inductors (coils) we can make the electrical 
length of the antenn change while its physical length remains the same.
Which explains how we can use the same antenna for the much lower 
frequency of the AM band.  And why most CB antennas are much shorter than 
they should be.

> I think it helps if it is longer that three feet, but only
> if it is a multiple of three feet.  Something like six feet
> is better that three feet, but five feet, isn't.

Also pretty close.  You do need to use multiples of the QUARTER wave- 
length.  But this also depends on the type of antenna.  A quarter wave 
dipole would not work as well as a quarter wave monopole.  The dipole 
should be a half wave length.

Mud?

The 66 Toro and Mike (who used to do instrument  
                   landing systems in another life)

- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:25:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > What's the procedure say?
> 
> I knew somebody was gonna ask this.  Shoulda posted it last night.  

Geez, you coulda summarized.  I didn't expect you to type the whole thing 
in.

> 6. If test light lights in either of the above tests, remove the 
> convector for repair.  

Hard to tell exactly what going on here without knowing what's being 
hooked to what but it appears that they're checking for shorted outputs.

> If the convector is bad and only the radio is repaired, the convector 
> will cause the radio to go bad again.

No doubt.  It'll just put the short back on the drivers in the radio.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: David L Wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:58:17 -0300
Subject: The 97 OCA meet in Lansing

I will ask again since there was no response the first time. Does anybody have 
an idea about the date for the 97 meet in Lansing? My wife and her parents
are planning a vacation to Florida (The Vacation From Hell) with all of us
going. Me, wife, two kids, and the in-laws. I do not want to miss the Olds
meet by being held captive in Florida against my will. Needless to say I want
to coordinate the two so I don't miss out on the fun (the Olds show).
Even the month would be a help since the wife is ready to make reservations
for Florida. I already have my reservations about that trip!

Dave Wyatt 70 4-4-2 

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:21:24 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

     
Hey Peg,

        If anybody uses glue as a painting protectant, is it necessary when 
removing it to yell out "Look!  My skin's coming off!" as you describe?


Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
brett@actel.com
72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.


______________________________ Forward Header 
__________________________________
Subject: Re: silicone on metal
Author:  "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu> at SMTPlink-Actel
Date:    9/18/96 9:17 PM


<snip>
Didn't anyone here ever put Elmer's Glue on their hands, wait until it 
dried, and then peel it off in front of people, yelling, "Look!  My 
skin's coming off!"
<snip>


peg
     
     

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:17:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, if you care (long)

> So the average wavelength for the FM band would be 10.125 feet.  The 
> windshield antenna is a half wavelength di-pole and should be 5.0625 feet 
> wide.  The mast is a quarter-length mono-pole (or marcone) antenna and 
> should be 2.53125 feet high.
> 
> Also pretty close.  You do need to use multiples of the QUARTER wave- 
> length.  But this also depends on the type of antenna.  A quarter wave 
> dipole would not work as well as a quarter wave monopole.  The dipole 
> should be a half wave length.
> 
> Mud?

Thanks for the information!

Okey-dokey!  Now we're getting somewhere.  Does this mean that if
I want to improve my FM reception, that I would be better off with
a 5.0625 foot marcone antenna compared to a 2.53125 foot marcone antenna?

And, what would be the effect of stringing a 10.125 foot dipole through
the roof?

I guess the real question is... What games can you play with a
car antenna to improve FM recepetion?

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 18:25:44 -0300
Subject: Re: chicago area members lunch

     Okay,
     
        Here is the latest list (w/minor additions to David's last msg).  
     Last I heard is that the 12:00 time for meeting at the Schaumburg 
     Fuddrukkers on Oct 4 was a concern to football fans (or to spouses of 
     football fans).  A later time on the 4th was a concern also for some.  
     I propose that we go ahead with noon (with use of VCRs) or go for a 
     weeknight.  By the way, Mike Brady does not have a legal email address 
     listed below.  Mike, fill us in.  We should continue this off line 
     with direct e-mail to one another.

     
David Wilk        dww@lb.com                         312/432-7617  
                  David1756@aol.com
Andy Green        acg@dlogics.com                    312/266-4431  Arlngtn Hts
Brett Chaveriat   brett@actel.com                    847/259-1501  Arlngtn Hts 
Jeff Easton       Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com                
David Brown       dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu       312/702-9157  St. Charles 
Michael Brady     DrOlds                                           Naperville 
Ed Ekstrom        eekstrom@coris.com                               Westmont
     
     
     
     Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
     brett@actel.com
     72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.
     

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:52:39 -0300
Subject: Re: The 97 OCA meet in Lansing

The Oldsmobile Centennial Celebration is August 20-23, 1997.

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

At 07:58 PM 9/20/96 +0000, you wrote:
>I will ask again since there was no response the first time. Does anybody 
have 
>an idea about the date for the 97 meet in Lansing? 
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Patty Marshal <pmarshal@airmail.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:49:05 -0300
Subject: 1970 442 

I am looking for parts catalogs for a 1970 cutlas 442 and any interesting
web sites on 
the 442.
Any recommendations?

------------------------------

From: RBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 18:04:05 -0300
Subject: Interesting Article

     I thought you folks would enjoy this automotive story that I ran across.
     
     Title "Darwin Award" Author Unknown
     
     The Darwin Awards- It's an annual honor given to the person who did 
     the gene pool the biggest service by killing themselves in the most 
     extraordinarily stupid way.
     
     The Arizona Highway Patrol came upon a piece of smoldering metal 
     embedded into the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of 
     a curve.  The wreckage resembled the site of an airplane crash, but it 
     was a car.  The type of car was unidentifiable at the scene.  The lab 
     finally figured out what is was and what had happened.
     
     It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit (Jet 
     Assisted Take Off-actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give 
     heavy military transport planes an extra "push" for taking off from 
     short airfields.  He had taken his Chevy Impala out into the desert 
     and found a long, straight stretch of road.  He attached the JATO 
     unit to his car jumped in, got up to speed and fired off the JATO!
     
     The facts, as could be determined, are that the operator of the 1967 
     Impala hit the JATO ignition at a distance of approximately 3.0 
     miles from the crash site.  This was established by the prominent 
     patch of scorched and melted asphalt at that location.  The JATO, if 
     operating properly,would have reached maximum thrust within 5 
     seconds, causing the Chevy to reach speeds well in excess of 350 
     miles per hour and continuing at full power for an additional 20 to 
     25 seconds.  
     
     The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely experienced G-forces 
     usually reserved for the dog fighting F14 jocks under full 
     afterburners, basically causing him to become insignificant for the 
     remainder of the event.  However, the automobile remained on the 
     straight highway for about 2.5 miles, before the driver applied and 
     completely melted the brakes, blowing the tires and leaving thick 
     rubber marks on the road surface, then becoming airborne for an 
     additional 1.4 miles and impacting the cliff face at a height of 125 
     feet leaving a blackened crater 3 foot deep in the rock.
     
     Comments anyone?
     
     Bob Braden OCA#?
     rbraden@qualitybio.com
     1971 442 coupe
     1972 442 conv. 
     1974 88  conv.   
        
     ,

------------------------------

From: RBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 18:04:22 -0300
Subject: Interesting Article

     Title "Darwin Award" Author Unknown
     
     You all know about the Darwin Awards- It's an annual honor given to 
     the person who did the gene pool the biggest service by killing 
     themselves in the most extraoridnaryily stupid way.
     
     The Arizona Highway Patrol came upon a piece of smoldering metal 
     embedded into the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of 
     a curve.  The wreckage resembled the site of an airplane crash, but it 
     was a car.  The type of car was unidentifiable at the scene.  The lab 
     finally fiqured out what is was and what had happened.
     
     It seems that a guy had somehow gotten ahold of a JATO unit (Jet 
     Assisted Take Off-actually a solid fuel rocket) that is  

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:52:51 -0300
Subject: Re: The 97 OCA meet in Lansing

David L Wyatt wrote:
> 
> ...planning a vacation to Florida (The Vacation From Hell) 
> ...being held captive in Florida against my will. 
> I already have my reservations about that trip!

Geez, David.  And we were so looking foward to your enjoying the trip.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: David L Wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:06:42 -0300
Subject: re: 1970 4-4-2

Fusicks and Year One are good sources for the 70.  I have some of the first
70 4-4-2 grilles that Fusick made and they are top quality.  Been in the car
since 1986 or 87.  I have a friend who has purchased quite a bit from Year One
and he has been pleased.

Dave Wyatt  70 4-4-2

p.s.  If you hold down the shift key when typing 4-4-2 you get $_$_@.
      

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:09:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Interesting Article 

     I thought you folks would enjoy this automotive story that I ran across.
          
     Title "Darwin Award" Author Unknown
          
          
     Comments anyone?
          
          This actually came out last year and has been shown to be 
          yet another Internet "urban myth".
          
          It _is_ a great story, though...
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 21:10:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, if you care (long)

Robert Lawrence wrote:
> 
> I guess the real question is... What games can you play with a car 
> antenna to improve FM recepetion?

Not much.  The lab and equipment required to design antennas gets pretty 
tricky -- nothing you or me would want to try ourselves.

About you're only option with the marcone mast-antenna is where it's 
mounted.  It depends upon a good grounded surface or "ground plane" under 
it.  So the best place to mount it in a car is the middle of the roof, 
next best the middle of the trunk ...or the hood.  So the fender looks 
like the only practical location.

OR... You could stick two 2x4s through the hood and trunk and string one 
of those wire antenna thingies (folded dipole) you get with a stereo or 
between them.  But you might loose points.   ;)

Practical things:  Make sure the antenna is securely mounted (good 
ground), make sure the antenna wire connections are good and the wire 
doesn't have any kinks or loops in it.  Make sure it isn't wrapped around 
the blower motor.  Use the radio antenna trimmer to tune the antenna.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 21:15:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Interesting Article

RBraden@qualitybio.com wrote:
> 
>      It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit...

(Sigh)  OK, whose gonna tell him?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 21:20:23 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 442

Patty Marshal wrote:
> 
> I am looking for parts catalogs for a 1970 cutlas 442 and any 
> interesting web sites on the 442.
> Any recommendations?

Uhhh... http://www.442.com/ ???

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:29:14 -0300
Subject: FW: Antennas, if you care (long)

> So the average wavelength for the FM band would be 10.125 feet.  The 
> windshield antenna is a half wavelength di-pole and should be 5.0625 feet 
> wide.  The mast is a quarter-length mono-pole (or marcone) antenna and 
> should be 2.53125 feet high.
> 
> Also pretty close.  You do need to use multiples of the QUARTER wave- 
> length.  But this also depends on the type of antenna.  A quarter wave 
> dipole would not work as well as a quarter wave monopole.  The dipole 
> should be a half wave length.
> 
> Mud?

>Thanks for the information!

>Okey-dokey!  Now we're getting somewhere.  Does this mean that if
>I want to improve my FM reception, that I would be better off with
>a 5.0625 foot marcone antenna compared to a 2.53125 foot marcone >antenna?

a 1/2  wave, end-fed "Vertical" will likely represent an impedance  mismatch -
no ?....

>And, what would be the effect of stringing a 10.125 foot dipole through
>the roof?

Trouble at over passes if it were vertically polarized...

>I guess the real question is... What games can you play with a
>car antenna to improve FM recepetion?

One of my old favorites is to adjust the antenna trimmer capacitor for that
segment of the band that represents most of your favorite stations...

Frank Boerger//Tallahassee, FL//           WB8ENS/4
'68 C/S Convertible/'68 C/S coupe-de-parts

------------------------------

From: sbento@mecn.mass.edu
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:07:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Catalytic Converter...was Re: Exhaust nomenclature:

I have had similar results with my recently sold Pinto (86 Mustang SVO 
2.3 FI intercooled turbo engine) that car never had a cat just 2 1/2 inch 
pipe into a walker super turbo muffler. The reason why this car and your
Z28 are so "clean" is the fuel injetion. I don't think GM or Ford really 
had this emissions thing figured out till the mid 80's.

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0


On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, Jason P. Labay wrote:

> The cat on my Z/28 is "free-flowing". It is amazing what a metal broom
> handle does when shoved through  a convertor. My car has had two emissions
> tests now and it passed the emissons well within limit. Keep in mind my
> engine is an 82 and my car is an 88. The 82 engine with the "free-flowing"
> cat had to pass 88 emissons standards here in Ohio...did it beautifuly. What
> is ironic is that my 80 442 with a fully intact cat had higher NOx than my
> free flowing cat on the Z/28. 
> >
> >	On a side note, most states have really strict laws about removing
> >a cat and replacing it with a "test pipe" (Montana isn't one of them :).
> >But, if you're going for max performance and still need to be emissions
> >legal, there are several aftermarket places that build high-perf, high
> >flow converters (I think Accel, Dynomax, and Thrush make them...don't know
> >if they make any for Olds though...)
> >
> >	Anyway, if this seems a little long, sorry but once I get going,
> >it's hard to stop.  Kind of like my Olds--it's in desparate need of a
> >brake job!!  
> >
> >
> >				Scott
> >			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98
> >
> >
> >
> >
> - - - - - - - - - - -
> Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
> 88 Iroc Z/28.......................daily driver
> 80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.........show car
> 75 Hurst/Olds W-25........restoration project
> 74 Riviera Stage I 455...winter ride
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:15:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Interesting Article 

>RBraden@qualitybio.com wrote:
>> 
>>      It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit...
>
>(Sigh)  OK, whose gonna tell him?

     Yeah, seems to me I've heard about that guy, like a week ago...  Isn't
funny, though, the lengths some people will go to just to make thier chevy
as fast as Oldsmobiles??!!   :)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:16:00 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Antennas, if you care (long) 

>
>> So the average wavelength for the FM band would be 10.125 feet.  The 
>> windshield antenna is a half wavelength di-pole and should be 5.0625 feet 
>> wide.  The mast is a quarter-length mono-pole (or marcone) antenna and 
>> should be 2.53125 feet high.
>> 
>> Also pretty close.  You do need to use multiples of the QUARTER wave- 
>> length.  But this also depends on the type of antenna.  A quarter wave 
>> dipole would not work as well as a quarter wave monopole.  The dipole 
>> should be a half wave length.
Mud?
>>Okey-dokey!  Now we're getting somewhere.  Does this mean that if
>>I want to improve my FM reception, that I would be better off with
>>a 5.0625 foot marcone antenna compared to a 2.53125 foot marcone >antenna?
>a 1/2  wave, end-fed "Vertical" will likely represent an impedance  mismatch -
>no ?....
And, what would be the effect of stringing a 10.125 foot dipole through
>>the roof?
>Trouble at over passes if it were vertically polarized...
>>I guess the real question is... What games can you play with a
>>car antenna to improve FM recepetion?
>One of my old favorites is to adjust the antenna trimmer capacitor for that
>segment of the band that represents most of your favorite stations...

          NOW, I know why I bought a CD player!!!
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:19:07 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member 

>jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:
>> 
>> Roland,
>> 
>> It's been a while but here goes nothing:
>> 
>> Entschuldigung bitte, aber mein Dutsch ist ein bisschen kalt.  Ebensogut,
>> Ich glaube das du konnst mich verstehen.  Bitte, Ich muss mir sie du
>> vorstellen.  Ich bin Jeff Zeilmann, und Ich habe zwei Oldsmobile.  Was ist
>> los dort druben?  Ich denke das Oldsmobile ist  am besten auto.  Stimmst du
>> mir zu? (sorry no umlauts on this keyboard)  Ich hatte deine geschichte
>> gelesen.
>> 
>> <<I'd like to say I drive a 1956 Olds 88 2-dr Coupe, but there are engine
>> <<and tranny looking like new but still lying besides the car, but I'm a
>> very
>> <<patient man, so some day the car will run.
>> 
>> Es geht nichts uber eine 1956 88 2-dr coupe!  Sehr schon!
>> Wie viele haben Sie mit das auto zu tuen?  Leider, Ich habe viele 
>> arbeit mit meinen autos. Frage: Bist du in der nahe Der Schwartz Wald, 
>> oder Baden Baden?  Ich denke das, meinen Vorfahren ist von dort.  Einen 
>> tag Ich muss dort zuruckfuhren auf.
>
>Scheisse!  Sehr gut, mein freund.

     Uhh, yeah...  Easy for you to say!!!  :)
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:45:55 -0300
Subject: Vachose 

>My vacuum hose falls off of the cannister at regular intervals.  Just
>because the hose is old and stretched too wide to stay on.  I have to get
>out and put it back on about once every six weeks and then make a mental
>note to replace the hose when I get time...I've been doing this since about
>1993

Just snip of 1/2 and it's good as new...
KN6698

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:53:48 -0300
Subject: Catalytic Converter...was Re: Exhaust nomenclature: 

>        On a side note, most states have really strict laws about removing
>a cat and replacing it with a "test pipe" (Montana isn't one of them :).
>But, if you're going for max performance and still need to be emissions
>legal, there are several aftermarket places that build high-perf, high
>flow converters (I think Accel, Dynomax, and Thrush make them...don't know
>if they make any for Olds though...)

we use to tip them on end and clean um out with a c bar.  Easyer than
making up a new pipe and I've seen cars pass so they must still kinda
work..

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:57:05 -0300
Subject: FREE FREE FREE FREE Parts 

OK this is what I have, Stripping an 67 delta 88.

The seats (bench)have no rips at all.
The carpet(god forbid anyone would want it) is self renueing (mold)
The dash came out ok and all the gauges are intact and work
Crank wing and side windows
The trim around the ft win is intact and a lovely shade of cream..
The grill looks to be ok and the turn signal trim is all there (four layers)
All the wheel well trim is ok, want the entire front wheel well?
The gas tank is going to be yanked and will join the 98's in a pile should
anyone want it
All I need of the doors is the outer skin and I would consider another bent
door in trade.
Still have the windows out of the 66 98 and expect to get them out intact
from the 67 88 also
The beastie had air so did the 98, any I still have both.
Heater box will come out nicely if anyone wants it, if not Hatchet Time!
Still have the grill and head light assembly out of the 66 98 also the t
lights, a little worse for the ware.
I am just intirely gutting this thing so send in requests, I am not above
trading and am looking for a disk setup that would fit the 67 88
Anyone want fr drums? I've got 5
Also any in formation about the worth of a Buick 430 would be aprecated,
runs but really needs a tune up.
I really don't want to see the trim and things go to the dump again and
could be talked down to COD for shipping.
Kenneth

PS:  I am looking for sponsors for this Olds we race.  Just think of a
classic Olds punching through an impala, does my heart good...hey just how
long can I run a 425 at 5500 RPM's anyway?

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:03:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again) 

Here's a tip for you guys that still have working power antennae.  This only
really applies if you live in the snowbelt.  Every winter when we got our
first snowfall, I would run the antenna up and disconnect the power plug
(some are under the dash and are hard to do - mine was under the hood).  I
think that a build up of ice and snow on the antenna when its up, and all the
melting ice and junk running into the antenna hole (to refreeze later on) is
what kills these antennae.  During the winter, the car's always so dirty
anyway that I doubt anyone notices the antenna is up all the time.  Just plug
it back in in the spring and your all set.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 23:13:34 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

So I went back to
> the place after putting some aluminum tape in the offending areas and am now
> registerd for another year.Ya, we call it NH chrome!! One of the many uses 
for Duct Tape!!
  I heard that NH classic car plates no longer have
> the mileage restriction on them.  I'm going to check in this next year when I
> reregister the vehicle.

Don't know about this but i will check on this and let you know 
>

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 22:13:42 -0300
Subject: Wanted: 455 Toro Motor

All,

Just got a call from a guy in Akron, Ohio.

He is looking to buy a complete 1968 455 engine for his 68 Toro.

If anyone has one for sale or knows of one, he could use the help.

call:

Dwayne
1-330-773-5871 

Thanks,

Sparky 

- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 23:31:20 -0300
Subject: Re: steering column swap question

> The problem with the Olds steering column is that the "start" position
> doesn't work so well.  I've installed an overide switch temporarily to start
> the car until I get the key fixed.  Anyone know how to get to the switch?  I
> also have a problem with the little chrome thigamajig that the key fits into
> and twists with the key when it's turned.(sorry, I don't know the name of it
> and that's about as technical I can get)  Anyway, it fell   off.  Anyone
> ever had this problem?   

This is not for the feint of heart. But the key switch and the Ignition 
switch are two different animals. As fro the start position it is most 
likely not the key but the electrical componate of the system. This is 
located on the side of the steering column under the dash. It is about 
2 1/2 inches long and has a large wiring harness cliped to it. it is not 
the easiest to get at but changing it would cost approx 15 dollars new 
and a couple of hours time. The steering column change is much more 
involved. In order to change the shift leaver you must take the wheel off 
and remove the signal light switch and horn switch. They make a special 
tool to compress the ring down to remove and replace the horn ring. You 
can do it without one though it is much harder. The real tough part comes 
when you try and remove the collar containing the shifter. The leaver it 
self can be replaced by removing the pin that it pivots on,but to remove 
the collar you have to remove the tilt componate of the column. This 
requires a special puller (Snap-on Tools, 14.95) to remove the pivots. Be 
 careful of the spring it is quite strong.  The rest of the swap is a 
bolt in providing the signal switch cponnections are the same. Also why 
do you want to change the leaver?? if it is because of the C*evy beeing 
floor shift don't even bother. You will not have any of the required 
shift componates or the neutral safety switch on the column.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 15:44:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Interesting Article

> >>
> >>      It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit...
> >
> >(Sigh)  OK, whose gonna tell him?
>=20
>      Yeah, seems to me I've heard about that guy, like a week ago...  I=
sn't
> funny, though, the lengths some people will go to just to make thier ch=
evy
> as fast as Oldsmobiles??!!   :)
>=20
>       Charley Buehner     =20

Charlie,

I heard that he was actually chasing the oldsmobile, but couldn't make=20
the curve.  The Olds driver (a little old lady) turned around & came=20
back but it was too late to help.  She felt quite badly as she was=20
taunting him at the light, but never expected him to do something folish=20
like that.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.:  Now you know the rest of the story.
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 21:20:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models 

In a message dated 96-09-20 10:10:26 EDT, you write:

> > Also picked up a black Custom Toronado from their "Challengers" series. 
>  
>  WHAT????
>  
>  I'm off to Toys-R-Us...
>  

Yeah, weren't you paying attention when I posted about these last week?
 Maybe I should have posted in High German and you would have understood it.
 This is the 3rd one I bought.  Already had a garnet red one and a copper
one.  They tell me the pearl white ones are real hard to find.  I think their
supposed to be '70s,  You can tell be the roof that their Toronados, but the
front and back ends are customized.  Send me a pearl white one if you find
any...

Paul

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 00:48:23 -0300
Subject: Another Test<DELETE ME>

Why Won't This Thing Work........

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 22:05:38 -0300
Subject: New Member Intro

I own a 1969 Hurst/Olds.  I bought it in 1979 for $1400.  I think I did all
right. At the time I got my H/O I was driving a 71 Cutlass, hopped up of
course.  I am very much into Oldsmobile performance and pretty much stuck on
A-bodies from 68-72.  

Over the years, I have (frame on) restored my H/O to between #1 & #2
condition.  The engine has quite a few performance goodies - mostly Mondello
stuff.  For serious performance, I definitely believe that there is no
substitute for cubic inches.  I have been an Oldsmobile nut since I started
driving in 1975.

I have my collection dream list that I hope to one day complete:
1968 Hurst/Olds               1970 Rallye 350 
1969 Hurst/Olds (got it)      1970 Cutlass SX Convertible
1970 442 W-30                 1972 Hurst/Olds
1970 Pace Car                 1983 Hurst/Olds 

I plan on starting on my list in about four years.  This is when I'll have
20 years in the United States Air Force.  I'm planning on retiring/starting
a second career and settling down somewhere so that I can garage my Olds
dream list.  Ten moves in 16 years has allowed me to collect only the one.

I am currently living in Yorktown, VA and am assigned to Langley AFB.  I
work integration of space capabilities (satellites) into fighter and bomber
aircraft.  I used to fly the F-4 Phantom II, boy do I have the need for
speed!  I've been on the list for about a month and have really enjoyed it
so far.
Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 12:55:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models -Reply 

>>> <PHartlieb@aol.com> 09/19/96 07:17pm >>>
<snip?  Also picked up a black Custom Toronado from their "Challengers"
>series.  Thought I found a pearl white one too (they're supposed to be
>hard to get), but it turned out to be a Lincoln Continental.

What year is that Custom Toronado supposed to be?  I like that body
style...  I got me a nice blue '69 442 last night.  It was the only 442 there. 
There were a bunch of red Toronados and one that was  forest green (I
think).  I also picked up the  ERTL '69 442 W-30 model, too (not the
die cast one -- the plastic one you assemble).  Can't wait to get started
on it...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: CMatt95460@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 22:11:27 -0300
Subject: 73 Cutlass 350 header problems 

I have a 73 Cutlass with a 350, and I am trying to put on a set of Heddman
headers.  Driver's side is on with no real problems as of yet, although, I
think a starter problem may develop.  The passenger side is a problem though,
the oil filter is in the way, and even with that removed, there is still not
enough room between the engine and the frame to get the header into position.
 Has anyone out there put headers on a 73 350 car?  Do I pull the head off?
 Raise the engine?  Take it to someone who knows what they're doing?

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:06:56 -0300
Subject: APOLOGIZING

To All:

Please Except My Apologies for the previous mail to this group of VERY 
FINE PEOPLE,

I Have Been Having EXTREME Difficulties Send Mail,And Have Wanted To 
Reply To Some Of The Topics Here But Was Unable And Frustrated So.

I Was Using The Mail Area As Little As Possible To Do My Testing, But Had 
To Send Something That I Could See If It Actually Was Working..

Again, I Hope My Problem Is Solved ,By Sending This Message I Will Know


Jim Fleeson
Columbiana,Ohiooooo

1969 Cutlass S
1982 Cutlass Supreme (455)
Other NON Real Cars..

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 22:21:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models -Reply 

>>> <PHartlieb@aol.com> 09/19/96 07:17pm >>>
<snip?  Also picked up a black Custom Toronado from their "Challengers"
>series.  Thought I found a pearl white one too (they're supposed to be
>hard to get), but it turned out to be a Lincoln Continental.

>What year is that Custom Toronado supposed to be?  I like that body

'70 I think.  It was black.  I also some Olds' in the Indy seriers.  a '77 
delta t-top, '70 442 convertible.  I think there was one more.

I saw an orange '69 442 series 8.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:27:49 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member Intro

Robert Whitaker wrote:
> 
> I own a 1969 Hurst/Olds.  I bought it in 1979 for $1400. 
> 
> I have my collection dream list that I hope to one day complete:
> 1968 Hurst/Olds               1970 Rallye 350
> 1969 Hurst/Olds (got it)      1970 Cutlass SX Convertible
> 1970 442 W-30                 1972 Hurst/Olds
> 1970 Pace Car                 1983 Hurst/Olds
> 

  I've been on the list for about a month and have really enjoyed it
> so far.
> Robert Whitaker


Robert,

Nice Olds those '69 Hursts!  When I went to school (work) from about 
1971-1975 there was one sitting on the street everyday.  It finally 
disappeared.  Possibly you have it.  

Welcome to the list.  Your list would be welcome in my barn.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 22:32:25 -0300
Subject: New Member Intro

Welcome to the list.  The 69 H/O's are well represented on this list. I think
I have counted about 6 in the e-mail by-lines.  I bought mine in 1987 from
the original owner, it currently has 62,000 original miles. It is a non-air
3:91 car, with only the belts, hoses and oil that have been changed.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 convt

______________________________________________________________________________

I own a 1969 Hurst/Olds.  I bought it in 1979 for $1400.  I think I did all
right. At the time I got my H/O I was driving a 71 Cutlass, hopped up of
course.  I am very much into Oldsmobile performance and pretty much stuck on
A-bodies from 68-72.  

Over the years, I have (frame on) restored my H/O to between #1 & #2
condition.  The engine has quite a few performance goodies - mostly Mondello
stuff.  For serious performance, I definitely believe that there is no
substitute for cubic inches.  I have been an Oldsmobile nut since I started
driving in 1975.

I have my collection dream list that I hope to one day complete:
1968 Hurst/Olds               1970 Rallye 350 
1969 Hurst/Olds (got it)      1970 Cutlass SX Convertible
1970 442 W-30                 1972 Hurst/Olds
1970 Pace Car                 1983 Hurst/Olds 

I plan on starting on my list in about four years.  This is when I'll have
20 years in the United States Air Force.  I'm planning on retiring/starting
a second career and settling down somewhere so that I can garage my Olds
dream list.  Ten moves in 16 years has allowed me to collect only the one.

I am currently living in Yorktown, VA and am assigned to Langley AFB.  I
work integration of space capabilities (satellites) into fighter and bomber
aircraft.  I used to fly the F-4 Phantom II, boy do I have the need for
speed!  I've been on the list for about a month and have really enjoyed it
so far.
Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455




- ----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

From: Plumcreek@gnn.com (Sharon Peter)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 18:35:30 -0300
Subject: email 

please delete me from email list.                                             
                                       thanks.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:34:44 -0300
Subject: Re: APOLOGIZING

Jim Fleeson wrote:
>=20
> To All:
>=20
> Please Except My Apologies for the previous mail to this group of VERY
> FINE PEOPLE,
>=20
> Again, I Hope My Problem Is Solved ,By Sending This Message I Will Know
>=20
> Jim Fleeson

 Jim,

No apology needed.  If I knew how to disrupt the peaceful lives of these=20
folks, I would be doing it also.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:32:45 -0300
Subject: Re: 73 Cutlass 350 header problems

CMatt95460@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a 73 Cutlass with a 350, and I am trying to put on a set of Heddman
> headers.  D The passenger side is a problem though,
> the oil filter is in the way, and even with that removed, there is still not
> enough room between the engine and the frame to get the header into position.
>  Has anyone out there put headers on a 73 350 car?  Do I pull the head off?
>  Raise the engine?  Take it to someone who knows what they're doing?


I put headers on my 1973 455 at 7,000 miles.  I had to remove the lower 
braces at the frame & discard them, remove the starter, & raise the 
engine as I remember.  Others have said that the oil filter must be 
removed.  That makes sense. It was never worth it either.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 13:35:14 -0300
Subject: steering column swap question -Reply 

>Anyone got any idea how to remove a column shift gearshift lever?  

There's a little pin holding it it.  I think you just take a drift punch and 
tap
the pin out.  You might want to loosen up the linkage first so there won't
be tension on the cable.  

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:58:35 -0300
Subject: Now That It Works

RE: Lloyd Culp

This Thing Won't Reply, I Have To Send I Can't Reply (JUNKJUNKJUNK)

The New Member RE You Left Sometime Ago About The Story Of The 455 In The 
1982 Olds Cutlass Has Tried To Make It To Everybody But Been Having 
Trouble

I Beleive I Can MAKE It Work Now So I Will Be Sending That Info On The 
455 Transplant A.S.A.P. (Tomorrow)..

Jim
Ohiooooo

1969 Cutlass S
1982 Cutlass Supreme(455)
Other NON Real Cars     (You Remember THAT CHEVETTE)..;)

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:16:21 -0300
Subject: Ball joint seals

All,

Well, I still haven't located these parts yet (upper and lower ball joint 
seals for 67 
Toronado). I have contacted all the obvious Olds catalog sources and then some 
with out 
success. 

I even called Moog and TRW. They state that they have an exclusive agreement 
with the 
manufacture of the seals and they will NOT sell them seperately or retail 
them. Needless 
to say, they wouldn't give me the manufactures name either. But they would be 
happy to 
sell me a "new ball joint" replete with seal for 130 dollars!  NOT!

I did find the tie-rod end seals however.

If anyone has any other ideas about these seals, I REALLY would appreciate the 
help!

Sparky
  
- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 23:38:23 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

> WOW!!! What a flash back!! Thanks Peg for the good laugh!!! I thought I was
> the only one that did those sort of things.
> 
> Brad '68 C/S Convt (Still trying to stop smiling!! ;) 

No, and I suspect there are lots more twisted people on here; they just
don't want to admit it . . . . ;)

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 23:44:27 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

>         If anybody uses glue as a painting protectant, is it necessary when 
> removing it to yell out "Look!  My skin's coming off!" as you describe?

Mmmmm, only if you're painting your hands . . . .  ;)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 19:34:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Ball joint seals

Gregory G. Kalkhoff wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Well, I still haven't located these parts yet (upper and lower ball joint 
seals for 67
> Toronado). I have contacted all the obvious Olds catalog sources and then 
some with out
> success.
> 
> I even called Moog and TRW. They state that they have an exclusive agreement 
with the
> manufacture of the seals and they will NOT sell them seperately or retail 
them. Needless
> to say, they wouldn't give me the manufactures name either. But they would 
be happy to
> sell me a "new ball joint" replete with seal for 130 dollars!  NOT!
> 
> I did find the tie-rod end seals however.
> 
> If anyone has any other ideas about these seals, I REALLY would appreciate 
the help!
> 
> Sparky
> 
>Sparky,

My brother-in-law is a brake & front-end specialist at a shop here in 
town.  I will ask him what he does about this.  He might even have some 
'spares' around.  I'll try to know something tomorrow night.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:28:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Studding my 67 Cutlass 330 cu in heads?? 

At 09:00 AM 9/20/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Has anyone ever done this not using aftermarket high dollar roller kits?
>
>After seeing how Chevy does there's I'm going to do the same.  As you know
>lifter preload adjustment is CRITICAL on Olds and after an engine rebuild
>its almost impossible to set preloads on all valves accurately with out
>binding the pivot bridges.

With a three-piece bridge (mine all came in a plastic bag in my engine
rebuild kit, so I guess someone besides TRW makes them), you can adjust each
rocker individually using the shims. With the correct length pushrods for
the base-circle of your cam (stock for a stock base circle, +.100" for a
.100" reduced base circle cam, etc.), the shims should be able to compensate
for variances, head/block milling, valve work, etc. A couple $9.95 packs of
shims are a *lot* cheaper than the studs and the required machining (unless
you are using the 5/16" studs).

Also, I mentioned this before when I was adjusting my valvetrain, but
double-check the amount of preload at the lifter that a certain clearance
under the rocker pivot will give you. Mondello recommends .035"-.045"
clearance under the pivot base with no slack in the valvetrain when the
lifter is at the top of the bore (so that when you tighten it down that
additional bit, the pushrod will depress the lifter plunger the desired
.030"-.050"), but when I adjusted for that figure, I was getting between
.050" and .080" of preload! (measured at the lifter with a dial indicator) I
found that between .028" and .035" of clearance under the pivot base was
giving me the desired .030"-.050" preload, so that is what I aimed at.

The one limitation of the shims is their thickness: the Crane packs had two
sizes, .020" and .035". Sometimes, I needed about a .028" shim to get the
figure right on the nose, so I was faced with a choice that put the lifter
just at the limit of acceptable preload. I would have preferred the shims be
.020" and .030", or .015" and .025".

>What I attempt to do is install alloy steel studs and use re-useable locking
>nuts to retain the rockers.  Of course you must use the newer style TRW 
bridges
>which are steel.  The unique thing about TRW bridges is that the bridge comes
>in 3 pieces so you can discard the bridging portion and use the insert (half-
>moon shapes) for the rocker.  The studs of course have to be an alloy steel.

Hmm, I'm not sure I follow the advantage of using studs in this application.
If you are using the TRW pedestal, it doesn't know whether it is retained by
a bolt or a stud, since its base is making positive contact with the head
surface itself. On a Ch*vy, the rocker and its pivot kind of just float
there, held up by the valvestem and the pushrod, and held positively down
*only* by that locking nut, which is adjusted up or down on the stud. On the
Olds, the pivot is part of the stand, which can only be adjusted up or down
with shims (or milling of the stand). All the bolt does (or all that a stud
would do) is keep the pivot located securely on the head surface. Going with
studs wouldn't give you an adjustability that the bolts wouldn't; just use
some Locktite if you're worried about them coming out (not usually a problem).

If you are using the stock pivots, eliminating the bridge strap won't gain
you anything, but will eliminate a significant source of stability for the
top of the pivot. Since the strap is simply flat stock steel, it will bend
enough to compensate for differing shims under adjacent pivots (unlike the
one-piece cast factory unit, which would have a certain amount of "twist" to
it, and thus might break). You'd have to come up with some good reason to
convince me that eliminating this strap is a good idea.

>I'm ordering all the studs and special nuts through McMasters Catalog.

Do they have a kit for this, or are they a general fasteners supplier?

>Any input is greatly appreciated.

Let us know what you decide to do; this Olds valvetrain can be tough to get
a handle on. (how about adding a set of guidelines for Olds valvetrain
options/modifications/recommendations to the FAQ? We've certainly talked
about it enough!)

Again, though, serious valvetrain modifications are only really necessary if
you go beyond the .500" lift range, and are running at high rpms regularly
(does your motor really ever hit 5000rpm on the way to work?)

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:28:53 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

At 01:30 AM 9/20/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>weeks (not sure of the exact date); perhaps we could all meet at Berjerick

OK, as for a date, I've got to be in Boston on Saturday, Sept. 28 _anyway_,
so that would be the best date for me (my wife has a get-together at 4:00pm
to be at). I'm still thinking lunch near Berejik's, jimmying open their back
door, grabbing all the SSIII wheel trims we can carry, then racing to
Fusick's before they close (call them just before, tell them we'll be there
in 45 min... they'd wait), driving up to Mt. Washington to test the brake
fade on my Toronado, and then getting back to Boston by 4:00.

Or is that a bit too much? Maybe just lunch and some hanging out admiring
our cars. Then we can decide to relocate if necessary.

>>(spelling *completely* off there!) Oldsmobile out in Newton Highlands
>>(Needham Street, exit 18 off Rt.128, I believe) late that morning at their
>>resto shop, and then get a bite at the "Big Grinder" sit-down place just
>>down the street (their sandwiches are utterly HUGE!).
>
>I was down that way a month ago and drove by an Olds dealer that had a 
>gorgerous Olds Convertible.  Couldn't stop since I was on company time and 
was 
>looking for lunch.  Anyway, this olds dealer was off exit 19a by "You Do It 
>Electronics."   I also love how I-95 and 128 south are the same thing.

*THAT*'s the place! (not many Olds dealers around) But as Tim posted, it is
rarely open; anyone willing to give them a call to find out their hours?

Oh, and the logic of MA roads is best demonstrated by that stretch of
highway further down, where 128 _North_ is simultaneously I-93 _South_! Plus
the exit numbers restart about three times on that single stretch of road
that everyone knows as Rt. 128 anyway. The law of non-contradiction was
repealed by the MA legislature back in 1978...  ;)

>>Sound good to anybody?
>
>Count me in.  Somebody bring a camera and I'll setup a web page on my 
school's 
>server about it.  Fractional T1 coming soon.

Is that Gordon College or Gordon-Conwell that you work at? Nice area, either
way.

>Where is Fusick's?  What about going to both places??

Fusick's is right off I-91 in CT, just North of Bradley Airport, about
midway between Hartford and Springfield. In other words, about a two-hour
drive from Boston. So sure, we could do that; first one back to the sub shop
with a trim piece and a Fusick receipt from that day gets a free coke, ON ME!

>>BTW, are there any New England-based Olds clubs or shows? All I know about
>
>There is a club in Danvers.  I'm not a member but the address is:
>
>Eastern Mass GMO Chapter of the Oldsmobile Club of America
>PO Box 424
>Danver, MA 01923-2055
>
>Dues are $15 first year, and $10/year after that.

Thanks for the club info; now is that an additional fee above the basic
membership fee? Geez, between the local club, the national club and the Toro
club, I could spend on membership what I spend to fill the tank!

>Roger Borlase


- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: CMatt95460@aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:46:00 -0300
Subject: model cars 

Does anyone know of any web sites or newsgroups dedicated to scale auto
enthusiasts?

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:06:18 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal 

At 11:38 PM 9/20/96 -0300, you wrote:
>> WOW!!! What a flash back!! Thanks Peg for the good laugh!!! I thought I was
>> the only one that did those sort of things.
>> 
>> Brad '68 C/S Convt (Still trying to stop smiling!! ;) 
>
>No, and I suspect there are lots more twisted people on here; they just
>don't want to admit it . . . . ;)

I'll admit to it.  But I *never* ate library paste.


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:06:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, if you care (long) 

At 05:10 PM 9/20/96 -0300, Mike F wrote:
>Robert Lawrence wrote:
>       -- DO NOT READ THE FOLLOWING IF MATH BORES YOU --
>
>Pretty close.  Actually it's the wavelength (or period) rather than the 
>amplitude of the radio wave.  The FM band runs from 88 to 108 Hhz, so the 
>wavelengths would be:
>
> Speed of Wave     Freq in                 Feet per     Wave-
>  in Miles/Sec    Cycles/Sec                 Mile      length
> -------------   ------------               ------    ----------
>     186,000  /  88,000,000  =  0.002114  X  5280  =  11.16 feet
>     186,000  / 108,000,000  =  0.001722  X  5280  =   9.09 feet
>
>So the average wavelength for the FM band would be 10.125 feet.

For those interested in why my number is different from Mike's, I used a
more precise calculation involving the permitivity and permeability of free
space.  Mike's speed of light number is approximate.

>However, one BIG thing is not being considered here.  The physcial length 
>of the antenna is not the same thing as its electrical length.
<snipped>
>And why most CB antennas are much shorter than 
>they should be.

Yuppers.

>Mud?

Yes, make mine so.  Oh, you didn't mean coffee?

>Michael R. Frederick


Oh......Oldsmobile.



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:06:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, antennas everywhere...... 

At 01:32 PM 9/20/96 -0300, Robert wrote:

>My understanding, also, is that an FM antenna should be
>about 1 meter (3 feet) long.  It has something to do with
>it being the same size as the amplitude of an FM radio wave.

Close.  You just used the wrong word.  You meant wavelength.  Minimum good
antenna length should be at least 1/4 wavelength long, whether for AM or FM.
FM starts around 80 MHz, making it 3.74 m (12.3 ft.) long at the long end,
and 1/4 of that is aroung 3 ft.  AM would need to be longer (around 460 ft.)
to meet this criteria (longer wavelength), but antennas generally aren't and
don't really need to be to get useful reception.  The 1/4 wavelength rule is
why you'll see ham and CB antennas so damn big (if you have at least a 1/4
wavelength antenna, you can detect much weaker signals at a given frequency).

These aren't the only considerations, but that's what I think you were
getting at.

>I think it helps if it is longer that three feet, but only
>if it is a multiple of three feet.  Something like six feet
>is better that three feet, but five feet, isn't.

It's related to resonance at the frequency of the transmitted signal.
Ideally, you'd have an antenna that was one full wavelength and
automatically adjusted itself as you changed channels.  But, then, idealy,
no one would be butt ugly and if someone was, no one would care.

>I used to have a better understanding of this, but those
>brains cells are MIA.

They're still there, you just need to dust them off, now and then.
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----
>Robert Lawrence



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:06:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas, antennas everywhere...... 

At 02:13 PM 9/20/96 -0300, you wrote:
>R Mullen wrote:
>> 
>> My  '70 442 windshield antenna gives good reception and I never have to 
>> worry about getting it up.

My windshield antenna sucks for air and so does any other GM car I've been
in that used one.  You must've lucked out or there's something in line with
it to amplify the signal.

On that topic, I know there are antenna boosters around, but are any of them
any good?  (I don't want to give Radio Shack any of my business.)  I'd
prefer not to put extra holes that don't rot in naturally in my Delta.

Also, is there a simple test that I can do to determine if my windshield
antenna is bad (other than crappy reception)?


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: DrkSole@aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:04:29 -0300
Subject: Re: 73 Cutlass 350 header problems 

In a message dated 96-09-20 21:14:46 EDT, you write:

>Subj:	73 Cutlass 350 header problems
>Date:	96-09-20 21:14:46 EDT
>From:	CMatt95460@aol.com
>Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Reply-to:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>CC:	CMatt95460@aol.com
>
>I have a 73 Cutlass with a 350, and I am trying to put on a set of Heddman
>headers.  Driver's side is on with no real problems as of yet, although, I
>think a starter problem may develop.  The passenger side is a problem
though,
>the oil filter is in the way, and even with that removed, there is still not
>enough room between the engine and the frame to get the header into
position.
> Has anyone out there put headers on a 73 350 car?  Do I pull the head off?
> Raise the engine?  Take it to someone who knows what they're doing?
>
>
>

I put a set of Hooker's on my 73 supreme last dec., had to cut off frame
supports, remove the oil filter adapter, then basically got the header in by
jacking the car off the ground, angling the header up, then used the brute
force aka;get pissed off and force it,  method to get it in place. once it
was, half the hole's for the header bolts were nearly  impossible to get at,
never did get the second bolt from the back in-was blocked by the header
tube. On afriends 73 H/O we raised the engine to get the headers on. Hope
this helps.
DrkSole
 73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:14:27 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

>OK, as for a date, I've got to be in Boston on Saturday, Sept. 28 _anyway_,

Well, the 29nth is my 22nd birthday.  And what better way to spend than with 
other Olds enthusiasts. ;)

>in 45 min... they'd wait), driving up to Mt. Washington to test the brake
>fade on my Toronado, and then getting back to Boston by 4:00.

I cooked the brakes on my mother's '81 century on the Mt. Washington auto 
road.  I mean this things were SMOKING.  It's a 2.5 hr drive from Beverly.
Wait, why don't we turn this into a Cannon Ball like event, and like mail it 
to Car and Driver? :-)

>Or is that a bit too much? Maybe just lunch and some hanging out admiring
>our cars. Then we can decide to relocate if necessary.

More realistic goal.

>*THAT*'s the place! (not many Olds dealers around) But as Tim posted, it is
>rarely open; anyone willing to give them a call to find out their hours?

I'm a student and broke.  Sorry.  Commitments like exams are obstacles too.

>Is that Gordon College or Gordon-Conwell that you work at? Nice area, either
>way.

I am a student at Gordon College majoring in Computer Science and this is my 
senior year.  I was a student employ of the computer center.  It's a nice 
area.  Too bad the cops like to grab students.  15 over the limit is $100. 
(not me)

http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase/resume.html

>>Dues are $15 first year, and $10/year after that.

>Thanks for the club info; now is that an additional fee above the basic
>membership fee? Geez, between the local club, the national club and the Toro
>club, I could spend on membership what I spend to fill the tank!

Yes, you must a member of the national to be a member of the local.
But what are you putting in it, CAM -2 ?

good night & God Bless.

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:29:04 -0300
Subject: I need these parts..

For the finish of my restoration of a '70 olds 442 W-30, I need
"F" cylinder heads
'70 alumium intake manifold
anyone with these please let me know!!!

Thanks
Brad

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 02:31:59 -0300
Subject: Converting to a Dual Gate

In my '70 Olds 442 W-30, I have the TH400 auto trans with the column 
shifter.  This is inconvienent for racing, so what would it take to 
install a Hurst Dual Gate?
Also, if I install (or have installed) a Hurst Dual Gate, is there any 
way by the numbers to tell that it used to have a column shifter?
Thanks
Brad

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:15:00 -0300
Subject: RE: New Member Intro

<Mike
<66 442
<69 H/O
<70 W30
<71 442 convt
_________________
<I own a 1969 Hurst/Olds.  I bought it in 1979 for $1400...
<Robert Whitaker
<69 H/O 455
=================
Very nice collection of automobiles.  I love the '69 H/O especially.  When I 
had my '69 442, I once had it parked next to a '69 H/O at a car show.  My 
442 had just recently been fully restored and was looking mighty fine, and 
the H/O was a sight to behold.  We had quite a few gawkers that day.  I 
still have a few photos of them side by side.  Two mean looking hombres!  I 
truly envy you guys.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 01:30:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Ball joint seals

<Well, I still haven't located these parts yet (upper and lower ball joint 
seals for 67
Toronado).
____________________
Sparky,

I just ordered an entire deluxe front end kit from Kanter.  You may have 
already tried them, but they sure have a lot of front end suspension parts, 
and they would be my first source of reference.

You can look at most of what Kanter has to offer at http://www.kanter.com/
 but, I would give them  a call if you haven't already.  (Toll free) Hope 
this helps:

Kanter Auto Products
76 Monroe St.
Boonton, NJ 07005
(800) 526-1096
FAX (201) 334-5423
http://www.kanter.com/
email a request for a catalog to:  sales@kanter.com
Cutlass/442 & 88/98 Suspension & Misc

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 06:16:05 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member Intro 

>I have my collection dream list that I hope to one day complete:
>1968 Hurst/Olds               1970 Rallye 350 
>1969 Hurst/Olds (got it)      1970 Cutlass SX Convertible
>1970 442 W-30                 1972 Hurst/Olds
>1970 Pace Car                 1983 Hurst/Olds 
>
     Umm, you missed one (I think.)  I'll give you a hint, it's front wheel
drive!!!  :)
         
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 06:33:20 -0300
Subject: Re: RE2: Olds Racing: Epilogue

I heard vasoline works well.  there is also a product made especially for 
rubber removal.

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 11:55:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Ball joint seals

jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:

> I just ordered an entire deluxe front end kit from Kanter.  You may have
> already tried them, but they sure have a lot of front end suspension parts,
> and they would be my first source of reference.
> 
> You can look at most of what Kanter has to offer at http://www.kanter.com/
> but, I would give them  a call if you haven't already.  (Toll free) Hope
> this helps:

Jeff,

Thanks for the feedback. However, they were one of the first people I tried. 
They have 
plenty of ball joints but no seals available to sell me seperately. The same 
story held 
true for everyone else I called.

Thanks again,

Sparky

- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                      Driven Images
4217 W. Fond du Lac Ave.                http://cpeq.com/~edison3/dihome.html
Milwaukee, WI.  53216	
414-447-7500

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #307
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