To:	Jeffrey A Easton/ADD_LAKE_HUB/ADD_HUB/ADD/US
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Date:	Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:23:59 -0400
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #352



oldsmobile-digest         Monday, 4 November 1996      Volume 01 :
Number 352


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Roland Klinger <Roland.Klinger@bonn.netsurf.de>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 02:26:08 -0400
Subject: It is running again!!!

Hello Olds friends,

not up up and away but brmmm brmmm blobber blobber blobber blobber

my 1956 Olds 88 Holiday Coupe is running again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

after a nearly five years down to the last screw restoration.

Some rest work has to be done but essentially restoration is finished
(as far as you can say that with an 40 years old car). One hydaulic
valve lifter takes no oil so the engine is a little bit clickering but
they will fix that.

Somebody living near a small town of Mapleton, MN? Gary Pankake there
was the owner until 5 years ago. If so, tell him the news.<g>

Roland

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 16:58:46 -0400
Subject: Re: the city vs your car

or paying public school taxs, when your kids are in private school
(which costs you thru the nose) because the public schools are too
overcrowded with persons kids from other lands. and you want your kids
to learn religion which they cannot teach in public schools..  Sorry I
could not resist that one.


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, Dennis W Johnson wrote:

> On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, MR DREW A DURIGAN wrote:
> > >>Lots of cities have laws to tow cars away if
> >  - car hasn't moved in X days,
> >  - car is not drivable
> >    (this can mean anything from immobile, aka up on blocks,
> >     to not leagal to drive, as in your seatbelt is too tattered
> >     or whatever other silly reason someone wants to give)
> >  - car is not currently licensed/inspected, <<
>
> > This is a perfect example of the gradual erosion of private property
 > > rights in this country.  Used to be that, unless you were
endangering > > or blatantly disturbing your neighbors, what you did on
your own > > property was your own damn business.  Now, the government
has license > > to come onto YOUR property and remove YOUR property
(car) if it > > doesn't meet the standards that THEY have imposed.
Pretty pathetic > > when you stop and think about it, isn't it? > >
(Stepping off the political soapbox...) > > -Drew in Sunny Central
Florida- > > One of the excuses they give is that the car does not meet
the state > requirements for safe driving.  Actually the state probably
does not > care what you do with it once you license it.  If you
license it and > don't drive it you will have paid the tax and gotten
nothing in return. > An ideal taxpayer.  Kind of like paying school tax
when you don't have > children. >  dj > >

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 17:25:17 -0400
Subject: Re: slipping transmission

Hello;
Thanks Graham!  My brother is a professional wrench turner.  My brother
Tom Sytsma is a NASCAR crew cheif and car owner.  He races at Heiligh
for now.  I know nothing about auto transmissions.  I hate to bother my
 brother with my "old car".  I am sure if I took it out, I could tear
it down in his shop.  His race car and many other projects are in his
shop, so I need to get the parts, tear it down and rebuiilt it fast.
So I am looking for advice before I begin the effort.  I agree with
you, probley is clutch, and seals.  Thanks for the e mail.  Let me know
if you any any other advice. regards


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Sat, 2 Nov 1996, Graham Stewart wrote:

> > Hello;
> > I own a 1970 olds 98 LS with a 400 THD transmission that slips at
low > > rpm.  When you consider that the car has 184,000 miles on it
without any > > service except for a filter change 100,000 miles ago,
this is pretty good > > > service.  I plan to remove the transmission
and rebuild it.  Please > > recommend what parts to replace and
inspect.  Any tips are welcome. > > thanks. > > Dennis Sytsma > >
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us > > Try to get "How to Work with and
Modify the Turbo-Hydramatic 400 > Transmission" by Ron Sessions,
publised by Motorbooks International.  Very > useful ... > > There are
lots of possibilities with a transmission with that kind of > mileage,
but if the fluid level is good you've probably got cluch plates > that
have had their friction material worn off or glazed over the years. >
If you can find a cooperative mechanic, you can test the transmission's
oil > pressure; this will help determine if the problem it mechanical or >
hydraulic related.  Of course, the governor, vacuum modulator, or valve >
body could also be causing the trouble. > 	One word of advice.  Since
you are going to remove it, replace everything > that can be replaced.
I had a 75 Delta 88 whose TH375 went after 130,000 > miles (clutch
plates were burned).  A local mechanic replaced the plates, > but did
not (it turned out) replace a number of seal rings.  It failed > again
20,000 miles later. > > Graham Stewart > Toronto, Canada >
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca >

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <103454.317@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 11:57:08 -0400
Subject: Resto Tip

After Joe mentioned the tip about the bicycle inner tube, it made me
wonder, before you put that newly rebuilt engine back in the car,
couldn't you fill the jacket with food coloring and water, clamp an
inner tube between the radiator hose connections, inflate to 15 psi, and
check for those pesky coolant leaks ?? Sort of an "out of body" pressure
tester...

Just a thought.

Frank Boerger//Tallahassee, FL, (who with his trusty new wire-feed
welder is attempting to enter the patch panel installation zone), and
who is sending this portable from beautiful San Diego, CA, and who
bumped into William Shatner at the Tallahassee Airport...I got a picture
with him, but neglected to say "Phasers on stun, good luck, Kirk...out".

Gotta get some therapy for that "dweeb" gene.

FMB...out

------------------------------

From: "Gregory G. Kalkhoff" <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 14:49:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Bargains!

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

Greg,

Sounds like a bargan hunters paradise!

> Lots of other interesting stuff there, including hundreds of cans of
> spray automotive lacquer at half-price, unfortunately all of it in GM
> Sedona Tan... why they would order so much of one color is a
mystery...

My best guess would be to say that it is either:

1. A discontinued color
2. Defective paint
3. A sort of Army Surplus deal....(isn't that a similar color the used
in the paint scheems for the Desert Storm camouflage? ) (:

Sparky
- --
Greg Kalkhoff                             See the Sparkmobile
AKA  "Sparky"                       http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Milwaukee, WI

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 16:30:06 -0400
Subject: freeze out plug size

Sorry if duplicate - I got an error from my mailer.

I own a Olds 1970 Rocket 350 engine. I need to install a engine block
heater. My local auto parts dealer told me to find out what size freeze
out plug is in this engine because his catalog only lists engine block
heaters by size not by automobile manufacturer or engine. I will be
removing the exhaust manifolds very soon and this will add in the ease
of installation of the engine block heater. I was planning to install it
on the drivers side of the engine, in the front, behind the power
steering pump. I need to know what the size of this freeze out plug. Is
this a good location? Is there is a better location, if so where is it
and what is the size of that freeze out plug?

John
+==========================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene  |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net |
+==========================+

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 16:51:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Replacing ECM (computer) Advice needed

Hello;
Not sure what engine you have. But my dads 86 delta 88 had simular
problem. The fix was a bad throttle sensor. disconnect the sensor when
it runs bad, the computer will detect the loss of the sensor and go
into "limp home mode". The 2nd sensor failed a short time later. The
work was done by my brother who is a professional wrench turner.  the
3rd sensor is still working fine.  According to everything I read, the
computer never fails!  error, error, error, error. hope this helps.


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, MR DREW A DURIGAN wrote:

> Well, I've finally managed to track down the source of my
> intermittent "service engine soon" problem (thanks to Henry!)  It's
> the ECM (computer)  When the light comes on, car runs way too rich
> and the speedometer and odometer don't register.  If I push or pull
> on the ECM box, the light will go off and things usually return to
> normal.
>
> Sooo.....I have two questions:
>
>
> 1) What does one of these go for these days?  New?  From a salvage
> yard?  Is an aftermarket unit okay, or do I need a "genuine" (and
> expensive) replacement from the GM dealer.
>
> 2) How does one best go about dismantling the right side of the dash
> and removing/installing the ECM?
>
> The car is a 1987 Buick Somerset.  2.5L-4cylinder (151 CID)  Auto
> trans.  ECM is located on the inside firewall, behind the glove box.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Drew in Sunny Central Florida-
>
>
> PS...Oldsmobiles?  Uh, yeah...well, my Somerset shares it's power
> train with lotsa Cutlass Calais and Cieras! <g>
>

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 17:17:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Car Jokes

Hello;
For Jokes in general check out http://www.totalweb.com
e mail michael, he does jokes in a big way.


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, Brad Bowles wrote:

> I know all you out there have some great car jokes to tell, so please
> send them to ME!  Please do NOT post them on the Olds page, they take
up > time, space, and kinda piss people off that don't want them.
Please > include any previous jokes that have been posted on the Olds
page. > Thanks > Brad > bodog@napanet.net >

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 17:33:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

Hello;
Car Craft mag recommed do not use the "bed gaskets" in the front and
rear of the intake. Instead use a bead of silicone. If you use the
silcone "bed gaskets" in the front and rear along with silicone sealer
you have a good chance for a leak.  Read Hot rod and Car Craft for more
info on this recommendation.


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Sat, 2 Nov 1996 CRuper1@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 96-10-29 10:54:27 EST, you write:
>
> << I guess I should consider myself lucky. When I replaced the lifters
on my >  '68 350 this summer, the original intake gasket was 2 separate
strips on >  either bank, with rubber seals at the front and back of
the valley. It >  was replaced with a one-piece "turkey tray" style
(don't know the >  manufacturer) that we had kicking around here. We
had to remove a metal >  tray that was mounted under the intake to get
this to fit (I assume it >  collected oil somehow, don't know exactly),
and used silicone gasketmaker >  liberally on all 4 corners of the
intake and in conjunction with the >  rubber seals at either end. Not a
leak in sight! >   >> > > I've had an intake off my olds. motors twice
and used a Fel-Pro, and Detroit > Gasket "turkey tray" style of intake
pan, and I haven't seemed to have had a > problem with any leaks (air,
or oil).  It was also easier to use than those > damned gasket I used in
the Chevy 350 once (four peice set-up, one for each > head, etc.) since
they have the nice dowels for the pan to set on, and have > the dowels
hold it in place.  With the two peice design, the damned things > were a
pain to get lined up, etc. > > BTW, I am just about to replace the
gasket (again) on my new motor (the temp > one) and I will use the
Fel-Pro one again.  Detroit's was fine, but Fel-Pro > included a tube of
sealant of some sort, that you use on the water jacket > areas, and
around the intake ports, to help selaing, along with the ridged > areas
around the intake ports, which squish to proper size when torqued. > >
Chris. >

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 17:44:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

Hello;
I am a electronics tech by trade.  I saw a video camera on a circuit
board at a trade show for $100.00 that was small enough to fit under
your hood.  You would need to feed the video to your camcorder and rig
a light.  I have had problems with sticking secondaryies myself on my
70 olds 98 ls with a 455.  I reved the engine in park with the air
cleaner off.  The secondaiers should open.  I am lucky to have a good
carb man in the area.  Billy's carbarator in Perrine Florida can
rebuild it for you if you do not mind shipping it back and forth.  Ross
Barfield Automotive can rebuild your distrbuitor.  A timing light
should be able to check your advance on the car. I hope this helps
regards


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Sat, 2 Nov 1996 CRuper1@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 96-10-29 11:41:39 EST, you write:
>
> << Well hmm.  Maybe "bog" was a bad choice of words.  I'll put it
>  like this.  If I'm sitting there in park/neutral the engine is
>  very responsive to the throttle.  However it does sound to me like
>  the secondaries only open slightly if at all when I absolutly mash
>  the pedal from idle, and not at all if I am even slightly less
>  leadfooted.  However, when i get the engine in gear and start
>  going down the road there is a definite point in the pedal beyond
>  which the power drops off CONSIDERABLY.  If I ease back on the
>  pedal the engine will get its power back and accellerate on up
>  well enough.  If I stay on the pedal it sits there trying and
>  trying and eventually it will get up to speed, sometime after the
>  bicycles have passed me.  I'm not sure, but that point in the
>  pedal may be where the secondaries (try to) open up.  I keep
>  thinking I'll do some runs with the hood and air cleaner off to
>  see what is going on with the carb.  Actually what I'd really like
>  to do is mount a video camera over the engine and get it on tape,
>  but that's not very likely. :)
>   >>
>
> Hmm...  I'm not sure what others think, but in this case, I'm going to
take > my guess and say that I think it may be carb. related, possibly
the > accelerator pump that is suuposed to give a shot of gas when the
pedal is > pushed.  Typically when that goes, and you go and mash the
pedal, it tends to > "bog" or not go anywhere, when it should.  At least
that's been my > expirience. > > As for sitting in park and mashing the
trottle, I'm not sure the secondaries > on the Q-jet would open, unless
you really revved the hell out of it > (somebody else tell me if I'm
wrong here) but the engine under load will > require more gas/intake to
go, but when in a no load situation, I don't think > it reuires that
much gas to rev. it a decent amount. > > Chris. >

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 17:47:33 -0400
Subject: Re: '89 Cutlass door handle -ext.

Try calling Mr. drew Korba at Fountain Olds in Orlando Fl (407)
240-3800.  He can do a national computer search if you have the part
number.  If you need the part number go to a local olds dealer for the
part number.


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Sat, 2 Nov 1996, buehner wrote:

>      My old roommate needs the outside door handle for the driver's
side of > his '89 Cutlass.  Some big chunk of aluminum or that pot metal
crap fell out > of the door, and it (allegedly) was part of the handle
(He swears it > actually fit in the doorpost!)  Anyway, does anyone know
of a place to find > one of these for, say $50 or less?  He's gotten
prices of around $80 for a > new one.  He lives in Missoula, MT, so if
there is anyplace around there, it > might be even better.   Thanks! >
 >       Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu" >       Box
1255              | Montana State University-Northern >       Havre,
Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner >       "Rockit 1"
| '81 Olds Cutlass 425 >       "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455 >
(Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!) > >

------------------------------

From: Jimmy Joseph <jimmy@mail.airmail.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 18:08:29 -0400
Subject: '68-72 Cutlass wanted

Does anyone in the Dallas, TX area have a '68-72 Cutlass they want to
sell? I'm looking for something that is $1600 or less, has no major body
damage or major rust, and has a 350 or 400 motor with an auto. It
doesn't matter if it's running or not as long as the engine and
transmission are still there and complete. I prefer a 2-door hardtop,
but I will also settle for a conv. as long as the top is ok.

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 19:35:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

>Car Craft mag recommed do not use the "bed gaskets" in the front and
rear >of the intake. Instead use a bead of silicone. If you use the
silcone "bed >gaskets" in the front and rear along with silicone sealer
you have a good >chance for a leak.

I've heard the same thing, but never followed that advice.  I've always
used the "bed" gaskets, and just put a little blob of silicon where they
meet the intake gasket at the heads.  Haven't had any leaks so far. - --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: "Jason Hairston" <jth442@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 19:56:43 -0400
Subject: Fw: Dangerous new news virus!!!!! ($$MMF$$)

- ----------
> From: Michael Terry <" tsquared"@socketis.net>
> To:
> Subject: Dangerous new news virus!!!!! ($$MMF$$)
> Date: Monday, October 28, 1996 2:18 PM
>
> Date: 10/11/96 9:24 AM
> From: Steven Alter
> ******VIRUS ALERT****** ******VIRUS ALERT****** ******VIRUS
> ALERT******
>
> There is NEW VIRUS rapidly affecting computers on the internet.  This
> new virus is insidious, in that it transmitted as a USENET message.
> Usenet is the "news group" area on the internet that users can openly
> discuss and exchange information on a wide variety of topics.
>
> What makes this virus DOUBLY DANGEROUS, is that it is disguised as a
> common chain letter.  Chain letters have been passed across usenet
> almost since it's beginning.  Lately, a common chain letter subject is
> MAKE MONEY FAST.
>
> The Make Money Fast (MMF) chain is read by thousands of people daily.
> It is also known as: "Easy Cash", "Make Cash Fast", "Turn 5$ into
> $50,000" and many others.  They are all basically the same scheme, in
> which the reader send $1 to each of the 5 people at the bottom of the
> list, then moves his name onto the list.
>
> The MMF Virus, as it has been doubed, rides along on these chain
> letters as a "hidden binary attachment".  Since most news reader
> programs (computer programs used to read USENET messages) will
> automatically decode and store binary attachments, there is NO SAFE
> WAY to protect yourself from infection.
>
> The virus attackes your system the next time you run your news reader.
> Though the virus is transmitted during a normal usenet session, your
> NEXT usenet session will probably be your last for a while.  As a
> hidden attachment, it is automatically activated with your news
> reader, and very quickly destroys your partition table.  Generally,
> this is not even noticed until the next time you try to run ANY
> program.
>
> The next thing the virus does is to place your micro processor into an
> nth-complexity infinate binary loop, quickly destroying it.  This will
> appear at first as a normal "lock-up" but will quickly wipe out the
> delicate circuitry in your system.
>
> The people that run usenet, at: news.admin.net-abusers are working
> night and day on a cure.  Perhaps some day an automatic process will
> be able to detect the MMF Virus in usenet messages and cancel them,
> but that is some time off.
>
> At this point, your ONLY hope is to NOT DOWNLOAD ANY MESSAGES that
> have a subject similar to above.  Please, FORWARD this message to
> ANYONE you know that reads usenet news.
>
> Thank you,
> News.Admin.Net-Abusers
>
>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 20:22:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Q-Jet Mixture Screw Setting


Just curious... anyone recall offhand roughly how many turns out their
Q-jet mixture screws are set? In playing with mine, I start with the
recommended 2 1/2 turns and it will idle somewhat roughly at that
setting. Playing with it I can get a pretty smooth idle at about 4 to 4
1/2 turns, which seems like a lot to me, but then again, what do I know?
 Maybe that's normal...

          Greg,

          I usually start at 3 turns out and usually have to richen at
          least another half a turn (3 1/2 total) as a minimum.  I've
          had several cars that took up to 4 1/2  turns, but that is
          definitely on the high end.  This usually means some kind of
          vacuum leak at idle - perhaps due to worn throttle shaft
          bushings (at last - a new Q-jet problem besides well plugs
          :)).

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:07:02 -0400
Subject: 80 Olds Cutlass Die Cast find

I received a die cast car catalog in the mail today from Surplus Tractor
Parts Corp out of North Dakota and was surprised to find a few 80 Olds
die cast cars. One is a 1:24 scale Richard Childress #3 stock car,
another is the same thing but it is a bank instead. The other is a 1:64
scale Darrell Waltrip #88 Gatorade Olds. These cars will look nice on
display with my 80 442 at shows. I never realized that Olds was in
Nascar in 1980. - - - - - - - - - - - - Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
(z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu) Sports Administration graduate
student at Kent State University 88 Camaro Iroc-Z/28...see it in the
December issue of Chevy High Performance 80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30.... see it
at http://www.442.com/labay.html

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:18:57 -0400
Subject: Re: 80 Olds Cutlass Die Cast find

On Sun, 3 Nov 1996, Jason Labay wrote:
> I received a die cast car catalog in the mail today from Surplus
Tractor > Parts Corp out of North Dakota and was surprised to find a few
80 Olds die > cast cars. One is a 1:24 scale Richard Childress #3 stock
car, another is > the same thing but it is a bank instead. The other is
a 1:64 scale Darrell > Waltrip #88 Gatorade Olds. These cars will look
nice on display with my 80 > 442 at shows. I never realized that Olds
was in Nascar in 1980.

I think these are the '77 body style, which Nascar permitted teams to
use for a few years thereafter when they had problems adjusting to the
downsized GM intermediates in '78. I don't recall any '80 Cutlasses ever
 running in Nascar.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: "Robert M. Nevins II" <nevinsr@voyager.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:49:04 -0400
Subject: 1964 F-85 Cutlass

I'm new to the Internet.  And this is my first interaction.  I have a
1964 F-85 Cutlass, 2 door post sedan.  I haven't been able to find much
information about this car, or it's collectable value.  Is there any one
 out there with any information about this particular car?  I've been
to several car shows in Michigan and I'm yet to see another car like
mine.

------------------------------

From: jc <jc@legend.txdirect.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:17:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 Hurst/Olds

Blair Rendell wrote:
>
> >Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 18:56:33
> >To: Olds 442s
> >From: Blair Rendell <brendell@pi.pro.ec>
> >Subject: 72 Hurst/Olds
>
>
> I have seen one already in Florida..S/N 3J57UZM213375, (is this a
legit #?) > in good condition..without sunroof or pw and no rally pac.
For 12,500  bit > steep I think..has about 80,000 miles on untouched
engine/trans. > > If anyone has one for sale please let me know.....my
1971 442 W30 > Convertible needs company!!  Thanks!    Blair Rendell >
>Hello, 	I have a '72 Hurst Olds I got about a year ago-sunroof, about
80,000 miles.  I bought it in Tulsa, OK for $6,000.  $12,000 is way too
much-I have seen a few in magazines over the last year for anywhere
between 6 and 10K-even a convertable for 7.5K.  My sunroof does not
work.  The motor will open it but will not close-that was a mess to find
 out!  I have a book I got from Year One-you V.N. checks out as close
as I could tell, Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe, 455 code L75 and M40.
The 'ZM' part is probably a '2M' that would have it mad in Lansing, MI.
The code 'ZM' does not exist.  However I couldn't tell you any more
than that.  If you want I can try and answer and questions you have
about the car in general (it's fun).

Jeff Chesnut
'72 H/O

------------------------------

From: VUBS79A@prodigy.com (MR DREW A DURIGAN)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:42:07 -0400
Subject: Re: MUCHO For Sale

>Where is area code 352?  I may give this guy a call...

That's the new area code for Gainesville/Ocala.  Split off from '904'
earlier this year.

- -Drew in Sunny Central Florida-
 '407'-land! <g>

------------------------------

From: jc <jc@legend.txdirect.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:19:53 -0400
Subject: Last message

Oops, that last one wasn't supposed to go to everyone.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:19:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 Cutlass

On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Robert M. Nevins II wrote:

> I'm new to the Internet.  And this is my first interaction.  I have a
> 1964 F-85 Cutlass, 2 door post sedan.  I haven't been able to find
much > information about this car, or it's collectable value.  Is there
any one > out there with any information about this particular car?
I've been to > several car shows in Michigan and I'm yet to see another
car like mine. > >


Welcome aboard.  I know a few things about '64 Oldsmobiles, having
recently sold my '64 Jetstar 88.


A 2-door post sedan would have been officially called a "sports coupe."
The engine, assuming its original, is a 330 cubic inch V-8, cast iron,
that was new for 1964.  It developed 260 hp at 4800 rpm.  Carburetion
was a Rochester 4-bbl, and the compression ratio was 10.25 to 1.  If it
has an automatic transmission, that would be the 2-speed Jetaway,
which was also new for 1964.  The car rides on a wheelbase of 115
inches.  The series designation for your car is 3227, where the 32
represents the 3200 series, or Cutlass, and the 27 indicates the
"sports coupe" or 2-door post body style.  The suggested retail price
for your car in base condition was $2644.  Model year production for
your car was 15,440.  This compares to a production of 36,153 2-door
hardtop Cutlasses, and 12,882 Cutlass convertibles.  Total 1964
Oldsmobile production was 546,112.

If you tell me what the VIN is, I can tell you a bit more about the car
(actually about the only thing you'll learn is where it was built), and
if you tell me the info on the body style plate, I can tell you what the
 car's original color scheme was.



Dan Gulino

------------------------------

From: VUBS79A@prodigy.com (MR DREW A DURIGAN)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:53:15 -0400
Subject: Re: 80 Olds Cutlass Die Cast find

>downsized GM intermediates in '78.

Ah, yes...welcome to the wonderful world of GM corporate clones!

Is it a Cutlass?  A Regal?  Grand Prix?  Or a Monte Carlo?  Don't
know...they all look the same! <g>

- -Drew in Sunny Central Florida-

(flame-suit on.  Though not intentional, I know I'm gonna get 'em on
this one!)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 14:42:18 -0400
Subject: Re: freeze out plug size

     I just bought one of these for my 307.  The store I bought it from
     lists them by application, not size.  Anyways, mine is a 1.500"
one,
     and the application list on the inside says it will fit your '70
350,
     as well as any other Olds small block.  It says you can install it
in
     the right front, or left front.  So where you were planning sounds
     like the right spot.  I haven't actually installed mine yet, so
let's
     hope it fits!

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Chappell <gchappel@nunic.nu.edu>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:54:14 -0400
Subject: 70 Olds 442

I own a numbers matching '70 442 that I am starting to restore.

I cannot find any information as to what all the codes on the
cowl tag mean

it looks as follows:
_______________________________________________________
| ST	70-34487		BF 01124   BDY        |
| TR	947 B80			75 75 	   PNT        |
|	01D		296583		060487	      |	
|_____________________________________________________|
I only know that the body color was matidor red, top and
botttom.

I would like to know what the other codes mean and what
the interior colors should be. Presently it is a white interior
with black carpet and a bench seat.

The car seems to be a stripper. No A/C or other major options other
than being a 442.

I would appreciate any insight on this!!!!!
thanks

------------------------------

From: willie@MADNET.COM
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:39:20 -0400
Subject: Cars!

Well, while runnaging through todays Sunday paper, I found something you
guys may be interested in.  Here's the ad.

* Olds '63 Dynamic 88:  394 ci, 79k ORIGINAL miles, $1000/negotiable.
Call (608) 238-5498 after 5 (cst)

I called the guy about it, (not for me, but for y'all, and he told me
that the interior is in nice shape, and the exterior is definately
repairable.  I have NEVER heard of one of these kinds of cars before,
but according to him, it's rare.  Anyone interested?

- -Shane
This message sent from The Net BBS 608-221-5702.
Telnet address: bbs.madnet.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert M. Nevins II" <nevinsr@voyager.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:50:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 Cutlass

Daniel Gulino wrote:
>
> On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Robert M. Nevins II wrote:
>
> > I'm new to the Internet.  And this is my first interaction.  I have
a > > 1964 F-85 Cutlass, 2 door post sedan.  I haven't been able to find
much > > information about this car, or it's collectable value.  Is
there any one > > out there with any information about this particular
car?  I've been to > > several car shows in Michigan and I'm yet to see
another car like mine. > > > > > > Welcome aboard.  I know a few things
about '64 Oldsmobiles, having > recently sold my '64 Jetstar 88. > > A
2-door post sedan would have been officially called a "sports coupe." >
The engine, assuming its original, is a 330 cubic inch V-8, cast iron, >
that was new for 1964.  It developed 260 hp at 4800 rpm.  Carburetion >
was a Rochester 4-bbl, and the compression ratio was 10.25 to 1.  If it >
has an automatic transmission, that would be the 2-speed Jetaway, >
which was also new for 1964.  The car rides on a wheelbase of 115 >
inches.  The series designation for your car is 3227, where the 32 >
represents the 3200 series, or Cutlass, and the 27 indicates the >
"sports coupe" or 2-door post body style.  The suggested retail price >
for your car in base condition was $2644.  Model year production for
your > car was 15,440.  This compares to a production of 36,153 2-door
hardtop > Cutlasses, and 12,882 Cutlass convertibles.  Total 1964
Oldsmobile > production was 546,112. > > If you tell me what the VIN
is, I can tell you a bit more about the car > (actually about the only
thing you'll learn is where it was built), and > if you tell me the info
on the body style plate, I can tell you what the > car's original color
scheme was. > > Dan GulinoThanks for the info.  The VIN is 824M291081.
I'm not sure where to locate the other number you asked for.  Why is it
that I don't see any of these around?  Are they unpopular with classic
car enthusiast?

------------------------------

From: willie@MADNET.COM
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:50:02 -0400
Subject: Another one!

Well, my newspaper was full of 'em today and I think one of you guys
will wanna snatch this one up right away!  Here's the ad.

* Olds '69 Delta 88.  455 2 door, new tires/exhaust, $650 or best offer.
(608) 825-6000

I called the guy, and he was really nice.  He told me that the car rumns
great, looks nice (DEFINATELY restorable), and the only reason he was
selling it was to pay off his speeding tickets. :P  It needs some MINOR
interior work, and some rust removal, biut according to him, it's worth
the $650.  Anyone Interested?

- -Shane

- - '81 Olds Cutlasss Supreme (Project Car)
- - '78 Chevy Suburban
- - '77 Chevy Suburban
- - '79 Chevy Suburban
This message sent from The Net BBS 608-221-5702.
Telnet address: bbs.madnet.com

------------------------------

From: "Jason Hairston" <jth442@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 23:11:30 -0400
Subject: test

just a test

------------------------------

From: VUBS79A@prodigy.com (MR DREW A DURIGAN)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:37:41 -0400
Subject: MUCHO For Sale

>OLDS 1970 Cutlass Conv-New paint, top & carpet, a/c, PDB, pw,
>      ps, am/fm, 8-track, great condition.  $7000/obo.  813-832-
4839"

I wonder if that's the one me & Dave from Melbourne saw at Old Town
last night.  No...probably not.  This one was a 442 convertible in
PERFECT shape.  Worth a lot more than $7K!

- -Drew in Sunny Central Florida-

------------------------------

From: "Kenneth G. Holland Jr." <rottin@coil.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 23:40:36 -0400
Subject: early style 4 speed flywheel needed

Anyone know where I can get an early bolt pattern flywheel for a 66 "E"
400?

Ken
rottin@coil.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 23:47:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

At 06:35 PM 11/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I've heard the same thing, but never followed that advice.  I've always
used >the "bed" gaskets, and just put a little blob of silicon where
they meet the >intake gasket at the heads.  Haven't had any leaks so
far.

I'll put my vote in for deleting those rubber end-gaskets. I dimpled the
rail on the block that those seals would have sat on, then put down a
*thick* bead of blue silicone. Let it skin over (about 20 min. I think)
and set the manifold down on it; no leaks so far on mine.

The trick is getting enough silicone down, and putting it down evenly.
You can get an idea of how much of a gap it will have to bridge when you
rest the intake manifold on the engine dry; usually it will be at least
1/4-3/8" compressed, so you need a big fat bead.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 23:47:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Garage Advice Wanted

At 01:31 PM 11/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I have nearly completed a house for my Olds (49 Club Coupe).  I need
advice >on a couple of features. > >1)      I have heard various
arguments for flourescent and for incandescent >lighting.  Also
recently, an aquaintance suggested halogen for intensity and
>supplemental heat.  Any suggestions?

I'd suggest some flourescents for the indirect lighting (paint the walls
and shelves as white as you can), and then some portable halogen spots
(about four 500watt lights, some on stands) for the particular spot
you're working on).

I'm interested in some similar suggestions, since I'm about to buy a
house with a small one-car garage that I'll either have to renovate or
tear down and rebuild eventually.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 23:47:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 Cutlass

At 12:49 PM 11/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm new to the Internet.  And this is my first interaction.  I have a
>1964 F-85 Cutlass, 2 door post sedan.  I haven't been able to find much


Well, welcome to the greatest mailing list on the planet... :)

>information about this car, or it's collectable value.  Is there any
one >out there with any information about this particular car?  I've
been to >several car shows in Michigan and I'm yet to see another car
like mine.

Not too many of these survive today, and the earlier Cutlasses/442's are
often overlooked in comparison to the more popular '68-'72 (you'll know
what I mean when you try to find parts...).

1964 was the first year of the more "normal" A-body cars for GM
(Tempest/Special/F-85), and Chevy jumped in with their Chevelle version.
Prior to this the A-bodies were sorta compacts with innovative features
(rear transaxle, 4-wheel independent suspension, all-aluminum
turbocharged V-8 engines putting out over 1hp/ci, etc.), but after this
they all shared a common chassis but used the engines from the
particular manufacturers.

This is good for you, since any chassis parts from a GM A-body will fit
your car, as will many of the engine parts from the later Olds
small-block motors (307, 350 and 403). Your car can also be updated with
the suspension/transmission/engine parts from the later A-bodies (GM
used the same basic design up through 1988, though important dimensions
changed in 1973 and again in 1978).

As far as your car being collectible, not so much. A 442 from that year
(the first year of that model, btw) would be worth the most, with a
convertible, then hardtop, Cutlass following in value. The 2-door post
was the entry-level body style, and its main advantage would be its
light weight which would make it a favorite of drag racers. It
definitely wouldn't be worth what it would cost you to restore it fully,
so you may want to consider that when you invest money in it, since it's
always cheaper to modify a car than to restore it to 100% original (now
*there's* an overgeneralization!).

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 23:47:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Intake Gaskets

At 07:56 PM 11/2/96 -0500, you wrote:
>     I ended up buying the Fel-Pro gasket, it was cheapest ($21.99) and
 [snip] >     In one of the car magazines, sometime in the Spring of
'95, they did a >     Mondello 455 buildup.  During which, Mondello
says to dimple the front >     and rear rails where the rubber strip
goes with a center punch for >     better sealing.  Has anyone tried
this?  Does it apply to small blocks >     too?

You only do that if you are using silicone to replace the rubber seals,
so that the silicone has something to "grab" onto. Don't do it if you
are just using the rubber seals; they are meant to seal against a smooth
surface. I guess if you do end up dimpling those rails, you have to
stick with silicone there (my personally favored way, btw).

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Terry Scott <tscott@CapAccess.org>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 01:14:15 -0400
Subject: info request/'57 Super 88

I've recently acquired a 1957 Super 88 and I'd like to put new brake
shoes on it.  I need to know the drum diameters before I order new
shoes.  I can't go out and measure them 'cause I'm storing the car out
of state.  None of my manuals have the info.  Does anyone know the
diameter of the front/rear drums on a 1957 Super 88?  Any idea where I
could find out? Thanks in advance for your help. TScott

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 01:45:09 -0400
Subject: RE: 70 Olds 442

_______________________________________________________
| ST	70-34487		BF 01124   BDY        |
| TR	947 B80			75 75 	   PNT        |
|	01D		296583		060487	      |	
|_____________________________________________________|

70 is the model year
BF = Fremont, 01124 is the unit number
It is a 442 Holiday Coupe made in the last week of January.
B80 = Exterior Drip Scalp Mldg.

I don't know about 947 but that is the interior trim code.

No idea about the other 2 numbers.

Roger Borlase
'72 Cutlass Cruiser
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 00:44:21 -0400
Subject: Re:  The City & ? vs. Us

In listening to all these stories about cars getting towed for sitting,
etc., I guess I'm lucky they dont seem to do that around where I live -
Anaheim CA - we've got 4 we dont drive that are in our backyard & long
side driveway and no ones said boo about them ever.  And the 'other'
halfs two are pure clunkers (!!!)  We'd almost PAY them to tow the F**d
outta here!


Thanks for reminding me I've paid private school tuitions for 14 yrs.
and taxes too - a combination of which would have restored my '67 3
times (or more) over.




Lisa Madsen


<color><param>8080,0000,8080</param>Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 &
'72 Vista Cruiser

</color>

Please E-Mail me at-----:
<bold><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Lisa@hotglass.com

</color></bold>

My Web-Page-----:
<bold><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>http://exo.com/~jht/olds/</col
or></bold>

------------------------------

From: Rapid_Ron_L@prodigy.com (MR RONALD C LASKA)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 01:37:31 -0400
Subject: Power Steering sluggish

I have a '93 Bravada with 94000 miles, and the steering is sluggish
at low speed and maybe only when weather is cold.  Just started this,
but it also just got cold (30F).  Any ideas what and how to fix and
if DIY?

------------------------------

From: Willie Fruean <aceface@lava.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 02:34:57 -0400
Subject: Re: info request/'57 Super 88

I have a '57 SUper 88 and I can tell you the exact part number for your
brake shoes but I can't right now. It's the midle of the night here and
I will check tomorrow if you remind me. Let me know if you need to know
anything else. I would love to hear more about your '57. You can see
mine on Bryces oldsmobile page.

Willie

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 03:05:55 -0400
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass Engine Trouble

About a month ago I received this message...  Unfortunately, before I
got the
chance to reply, my internet service went under.  It's now 4 weeks later
and I'm up an running with another service.  I'm sorry if this reply is
out of context!


buehner wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions?
> >
>  the car has a 267 Chev. V/8.
>                    ^^^^  <---  Here's your first problem...
>                ^^^  <---  Here's your second!   :)
>
>      Seriously, though...  Did you change oil, plugs, cap & rotor, and
plug > wires?  How about fuel filter?  Is it still the ten year old gas
in the > tank?  Also a good idea to flush and clean cooling system about
now, too, > although it's not likely related to the problems here. >
How about a compression test, etc?  Since the car was stolen, odds are >
(I hate to be the one to break it to you...) they most likely did not
drive > it like Grandma did!  They may have ran her hard until it died,
then ditched > it and stole something else.  They may have overheated
the snot out of it, > and blew head gaskets, etc. >      <<<OR>>> >
IT COULD JUST BE A cHEVY!   :) > >      Good luck, I'm hoping it's one
of the first suggestions (the easy ones...) > > > >       Charley
Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu" >       Box 1255
| Montana State University-Northern >       Havre, Montana 59501  |
http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner >       "Rockit 1"            | '81
Olds Cutlass 425 >       "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455 >
(Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

Thanks for the suggestions...

I guess I'll have to run through the possibilities one by one...  I
really just want to get it running good enough to pass a safety
inspection (before it can be licensed). My plan is to eventually put a
larger engine in it.  I've been leaning towards another small-block
Chevy, since that's what it's wired for (and they're easier to find, at
least here in Manitoba).  I'll likely go for a 350 or 400.

Does anyone know if it would be a very difficult conversion to go to an
actual Olds engine if I came across one?

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com (formerly hehnr@cwconnect.ca)

81 Cutlass Brougham
86 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 03:20:33 -0400
Subject: 86 Cutlass Diagnostics

I originally was going to send this reply about a month ago...  However,
my internet service went under and it has taken me 4 weeks to get up and
running with another company.  I hope this message is not too much out
of context!


buehner wrote:
>
> >I have a question about these GM Code readers that are for sale all
over > >the place.  They claim to work on all GM cars 82-whenever. > > >
>My question is this - I have an 86 Cutlass with a 305.  It is a >
>Canadian built car with no computer control.  However, there is > >an
interface for the code reader located under the radio.  Is > >this just
a dummy?  Or are some minimal diagnostics provided? > >      That's hard
to say, I guess.  Can you look at the connector to > determine if there
are any wires there?  Does the car have a Check Engine, > or Service
Engine Soon light?  The car may have a computer to control the > lockup
convertor, etc.  Does the car have a standard vacuum advance >
distributer, too?  Some cars had different degrees of computer control,
I > think.  Some (the common ones) used a feedback system with an O2
sensor, and > the clicker carbs, with timing control, etc.  Some may
have just done > timing, I'm not sure.  I guess this probably doesn't
help much, but there it > is anyway. >

I checked a few things out on my car today regarding the diagnostics.
The car does not have a Check Engine light.  It has a vacuum advance
distributor and their was no mention of a an O2 sensor on the emissions
diagram under the hood.  There are wires connected to the interface, but
I didn't check how far back they went.  I checked the fuse box and found
an ECM/BAT and an ECM/DEC fuse. I don't know if that means much, since
my '81 also has an ECM fuse, and I know that car defintely does not have
a computer.

>From what I can tell, the car has no computer.  The Canadian emission
laws during the 80's were not nearly as strict as the US ones, so I
think this is very possible.

My Dad's '81 Delta 88 (307) also has no computer.  However, under the
hood on the driver's side there is an orange plastic interface.  My Dad
thinks it is for checking certain voltages, the coil, etc.  If this is
true, maybe the interface in my '86 Cutlass is limited to those types of
readings also.  Just a guess on my part.

As a followup, during the 4 weeks I was without Internet service, I
stopped in at a local GM dealership.  By providing them with the car's
VIN number they were able to inform me that the car was actually built
in Morraine, Ohio (a surprise to me) with Canadian specs.

In regards to the emissions system, it came up as Canadian (non-closed
loop).  This confirmed that the car does not have a computer system.
They also confirmed for me that the vast majority of v/8 Cutlasses,
Regals, Grand Prixs, and Monte Carlos were equipped with the Chevy 305
in cars destined for Canada.  Maybe if Canadian emission laws had been
as strict as the US ones in the 80's my 86 Supreme would have been
equipped with a 307, but such is life.  At least I don't have an ECM to
worry about!

Thanks for your help!

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com (formerly hehnr@cwconnect.ca)

81 Cutlass Brougham
86 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 03:52:18 -0400
Subject: Dangerous new news virus!!!!! (SLIPPERY BULL SHIT)

All these virus messages.
In Finland we say  "HEVOSEN PASKAA"
Strict translation "HORSES SHIT"
Free translation   "BULL SHIT"

You can't damage your computer just by reading these "virus" messages.
If they have an attached file, you MUST run it to cause the promised
damage.

There is absolutely NO program that can damage your computer's
circuitry. Some programs can mix up your setup though which in turn can
cause a lot of trouble which can be hard to solve.

However, there ARE programs that CAN damage your display.

And there seems to be people that damage this list.

Of course You can press the delete button and forget these messages
but there is always people that read these and BELIEVE what is in
them.

- --
To Greg Beaulieu (hope this went OK):
I would be willing to write a program that could detect messages
that match certain criterias. This information could be used to
block messages from entering the list.

My profession is software engineering and I have done many projects
that use fuzzy logic and similar tecniques. I would say that
constructing a "filter" for this list would be a simple task for me.

Somehow I think that I'm not the only one capable of doing programs like
this and therefore I would like to say: "Gather together and see what we
can do".


- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 04:04:59 -0400
Subject: RE:  1964 F-85 Cutlass

Welcome to the list !

If you have anything to ask about your car......

I have a Ninety Eight from the same year than your car.

In Finland there is only 14 Oldsmobiles from year 1964
including all models. There is only ONE Ninety Eight here.

To get parts to your car is not as hard as you have been told.
Even here in Finland we have some and this list can help you a lot.

I had my ignition switch fried. It took about ane week to locate one
and mail it here to Finland. (Thanks for all participants and special
thanks to Travis).

The hardest parts to find are the interior details. If these are OK
then you have a very fine and easy car to maintain.

Maybe it is not the most valuable one but I think the value consists of
more things than just the prize ticket.

PS.
I recently finished the PS gear overhaul. It doesn't leak any more.
Want a full description about that?

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 04:28:43 -0400
Subject: Winter tips

How to keep your car going under winter
=======================================

I live in Finland and we have long, cold winters here.
Our winter season begins at October and lasts up to
May. During the coldest period temperatures usually
go down to -30 degrees celcius. Near coast they tend to
keep over -20 though.

It would be nice if the climate change would be very fast,
like somebody turning a switch. Then there would be none of
the wet, halfway smelted snow days which I think are the most
dangerous and most wearing days for your vechile.

There are three major areas which the cold weather will impact:
1) safety and reliability
2) economy (gas mileage)
3) rusting and other kinds of vechile wear


========================================================================
======== =========================    SAFETY AND RELIABILITY
==========================
========================================================================
========

Tires
- -----

Autumn is a good time to change your tires. Some have two sets
of tires for their cars, one for the winter and one for the summer.
I use tires that can do the both and change new tires every fall.

In this way you can have fresh tires with good grep when these
properties are most desirable. Choose tires with a rough surface
texture. The tires will wear during the winter and have a lot smoother
touch during the following summer. I use a brand that is named
"Hercules". I think this tire is coming from USA. It's quite cheap and
satisfactory.

Always change all four tires same time. Keep the best one as the spare
wheel in case of flat tire. If you change only two tires, put the new
ones in the front.

In Finland many people use spikes in their tires. These are good when
there is ice on the road but are worthless in thick snow and
temperatures below -10 degrees.


Coolant
- -------

If you have pure water in your cooling system, even the slightest
temperature fall under the freezing point of water can permanently
damage your motor. Therefore some sort of anti-freeze should be used.
Most anti-freeze fluids are made of glycol and contain some sort of
anti-corrosive chemicals to keep your motor from rusting inside out.

A good dilution is made half of the water and half of the anti-freeze.
It will hold down to - -30 degrees (celcius). The good thing is that
this solution does not become solid but merely like porridge. Don't add
coolant, change it.


Window washer fluid
- -------------------

The window washer fluid can freeze as well. Half and Half is a good rule
here too. Use a washing agent that contains a lot of alcohol and not so
much of washing chemicals. We have a brand here in Finland that
contains 90 percent of alcohol, 2 percent of soap and rest is water. It
is very good when diluted halfway with water.


Water in gas tank
- --------------------

During the winter you may get some water with gasoline into your tank.
They don't sell it in purpose, but there is simply no way to keep it
condensating. To get rid of this water, pour 1 litre of ethanol
(alcohol, again) into your tank BEFORE you fill it with gas. This way
you 'burn' your water instead of collecting it in bottom of your tank.
Always fullfill the tank and try to use as much of the gas as possible.
This ritual should be repeated for every fourth tank. Don't worry, this
does not turn your vechile into alcoholic. Only one spoonful of water
can stop your car in middle of nowhere. It will stay there until this
spoonful has smelted down.


Brakes
- ------

The brakes should be well balanced to be safe under slippery conditions.
If you have brakes that lock your front tires first, then you will
surely loose steering when braking. It is by no means a funny feeling to
turn your steering wheel and note that the vechile does not respond.
When the brakes are well balanced, the back wheels lock a little bit
before the front wheels.

The brake fluid can contain water. This water turns into ice and blocks
your tubes. The result is no-brakes. Good time to change the fluid.


Battery
- -------

There is simply no alternative for a good car battery. This does NOT
mean that the battery should be new. Instead it should be of type that
can deliver strong current under cold conditions. Keep the battery
connectors clean and tight to get every drop of current during the
start.


Oil
- ---

A normal 10W40 oil is NOT suitable for winter driving. It gets almost
solid when the temperature goes down. It will clog your oil filter until
warmed up.


========================================================================
======== ===================================  ECONOMY
==================================
========================================================================
========

Choke
- -----

During the first minutes after you have started your engine, the choke
is active to compensate for the temperature-leaned air/gas mixture.
During this time you car 'drinks' a lot. There is a simple way to
shorten this time. Don't let your car idle, begin to drive it almost
immediately. Don't drive hard, just enough to rise the temperature. This
way you can shorten the time needed for warmup to 1/10 of the idle
version.


Exhaust vent
- ------------

My olds has an exhaust vent that routes the driver side exhaust gases
through intake manifold thus warming it up more quickly. The
bi-metallic spring that controls this vent was broken. When I replaced
it with a healthy unit and turned the vent several times to make it move
 free, my car has warmed up wery rapidly. If this system is not
functioning, it can cause prolonged choke and is bad news for your
mileage.


========================================================================
======== ================== RUSTING AND OTHER KINDS OF VECHILE WEAR
=====================
========================================================================
========

Protection
- ----------

It is a very good idea to protect your valuable vechile against rusting
if it is to be used under wet/salty conditions. It is amazing how
corrosive the salt water can be. I would not do this job myself but let
a professional with good reputation do it for me. This way you can get
some kind of guarantee of the quality of the work.

The painted surfaces can be protected by simply waxing them ordinarily
before it gets really cold. Don't wash your car in wintertime unless you
can let it dry in a warm carage over several days.

Weatherstripping
- ----------------

During the winter your weatherstripping has a hard time. As the
materials have NOT been designed to be flexible under temperatures below
-10 degrees or so, they can break. Don't use silicone based
wetherstripping lubes. These will give you more trouble than you can
imagine at the time when your car has to be repainted. Just keep them
dry.


Locks
- -----

Door and trunk locks can easily jam if exposed directly to water and
frozen. These can easily be smelted with a plastic bag filled with hot
water. Don't use lock-antifreeze, it will only collect dust and dirt
into your lock and make the symptoms worse. Again, keep your locks dry.


- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 03:19:57 -0400
Subject: RE: Garage Advice Wanted

Best light you can get into your garage is the natural daylight.

I've seen garages that have roof made of opague plastic.

The fluorescent lamps are good in that that they generate a lot of
light and not so much heat. Their disadvantage is the narrow light
spectrum which can distort colours.

The best location for the lights is at the wall near the roof. If you
cant get opague roof, make it as light as possible (white) so that the
light from the tubes can reflect from it. There should be at least one
light on each wall.

The roof is not a good place for lights in a small garage as the light
won't reach the bottom of your engine.

There exists portable fluorescent tubes that have a strong acrylic
shield and rubber bumbers. These are much more tolerable than their
halogen partners and they don't heat up. Also the light from these won't
generate as deep shadows as the halogen version does.

If you want really strong light, you could get one or two of those
high-power lamps used for road lightning. Our club has a garage that is
entirely lighted using those. I would use one of these instead of a
halogen.

I'm not a halogen-hater but I think that today's technology offers many
good alternatives for these.

MORE LIGHT LESS HEAT.
- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: mailer-daemon@solaris.madnet.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 04:07:30 -0400
Subject: Returned mail: too many hops 21 (17 max): from <wi

* Note * This message contains an attachement that has been encoded
using * Note * the MIME standard. If you see this portion of the
message, the * Note * mail client you are using does not understand
MIME.

- --tcpsmtp254977ab8548ab6383ab
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

- -------------< COMMENTS BY Willie >--------------

Oops. :)  I tried posting this earlier today, but I entered the name
"cheCbucto.ns.ca" :P

- -Shaner

- ----------< END OF COMMENTS BY Willie >----------

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
554 too many hops 21 (17 max): from <willie@madnet.com> via
BBS.madnet.com, to <oldsmobile@checbucto.ns.ca.madnet.com>

   ----- Original message follows -----

This message sent from The Net BBS 608-221-5702.
Telnet address: bbs.madnet.com

- --tcpsmtp254977ab8548ab6383ab
Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="FILE.EXT"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="FILE.EXT"

UmV0dXJuLVBhdGg6IHdpbGxpZUBtYWRuZXQuY29tDQpSZWNlaXZlZDogZnJvbSBCQlMuTUFE
TkVU
LkNPTSAoQkJTLm1hZG5ldC5jb20gWzE5OS4yMDEuODguM10pIGJ5IFNvbGFyaXMubWFkbmV0
LmNv
bSAoOC42LjEyLzguNi45KSB3aXRoIFNNVFAgaWQgWEFBMTA0MDUgZm9yIDxvbGRzbW9iaWxl
QGNo
ZWNidWN0by5ucy5jYS5tYWRuZXQuY29tPjsgU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIzOjQzOjM3IC0w
NjAw
DQpYLVJPVVRFRDogTW9uLCA0IE5vdiAxOTk2IDAwOjIyOjM2IC0wNTAwDQpSZWNlaXZlZDog
ZnJv
bSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSBbMTk5LjIwMS44OC4zXSBieSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSB3aXRo
IHNt
dHANCglpZCBCR0NLQUlGTCA7IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjo0MjowOCAtMDUwMA0KWC1S
T1VU
RUQ6IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjo0MjowOCAtMDUwMA0KUmVjZWl2ZWQ6IGZyb20gQkJT
Lk1B
RE5FVC5DT00gWzE5OS4yMDEuODguM10gYnkgQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gd2l0aCBzbXRwDQoJ
aWQg
QkdDSkNHRU0gOyBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6NDE6MzggLTA1MDANClgtUk9VVEVEOiBT
dW4s
IDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6NDE6MzggLTA1MDANClJlY2VpdmVkOiBmcm9tIEJCUy5NQURORVQu
Q09N
IFsxOTkuMjAxLjg4LjNdIGJ5IEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIHdpdGggc210cA0KCWlkIEJHQ0pB
SURN
IDsgU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjQxOjA4IC0wNTAwDQpYLVJPVVRFRDogU3VuLCAzIE5v
diAx
OTk2IDIyOjQxOjA4IC0wNTAwDQpSZWNlaXZlZDogZnJvbSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSBbMTk5
LjIw
MS44OC4zXSBieSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSB3aXRoIHNtdHANCglpZCBCR0NJQ0dDTiA7IFN1
biwg
MyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjo0MDozOCAtMDUwMA0KWC1ST1VURUQ6IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAy
Mjo0
MDozOCAtMDUwMA0KUmVjZWl2ZWQ6IGZyb20gQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gWzE5OS4yMDEuODgu
M10g
YnkgQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gd2l0aCBzbXRwDQoJaWQgQkdDSUFJQ0QgOyBTdW4sIDMgTm92
IDE5
OTYgMjI6NDA6MDggLTA1MDANClgtUk9VVEVEOiBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6NDA6MDgg
LTA1
MDANClJlY2VpdmVkOiBmcm9tIEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIFsxOTkuMjAxLjg4LjNdIGJ5IEJC
Uy5N
QURORVQuQ09NIHdpdGggc210cA0KCWlkIEJHQ0hDR0NKIDsgU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIy
OjM5
OjM4IC0wNTAwDQpYLVJPVVRFRDogU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjM5OjM4IC0wNTAwDQpS
ZWNl
aXZlZDogZnJvbSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSBbMTk5LjIwMS44OC4zXSBieSBCQlMuTUFETkVU
LkNP
TSB3aXRoIHNtdHANCglpZCBCR0NIQUlBSiA7IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozOTowOCAt
MDUw
MA0KWC1ST1VURUQ6IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozOTowOCAtMDUwMA0KUmVjZWl2ZWQ6
IGZy
b20gQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gWzE5OS4yMDEuODguM10gYnkgQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gd2l0
aCBz
bXRwDQoJaWQgQkdDR0NHQUwgOyBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6Mzg6MzggLTA1MDANClgt
Uk9V
VEVEOiBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6Mzg6MzggLTA1MDANClJlY2VpdmVkOiBmcm9tIEJC
Uy5N
QURORVQuQ09NIFsxOTkuMjAxLjg4LjNdIGJ5IEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIHdpdGggc210cA0K
CWlk
IEJHQ0dBSEVQIDsgU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjM4OjA2IC0wNTAwDQpYLVJPVVRFRDog
U3Vu
LCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjM4OjA2IC0wNTAwDQpSZWNlaXZlZDogZnJvbSBCQlMuTUFETkVU
LkNP
TSBbMTk5LjIwMS44OC4zXSBieSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSB3aXRoIHNtdHANCglpZCBCR0NG
QUhE
TCA7IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozNzowNiAtMDUwMA0KWC1ST1VURUQ6IFN1biwgMyBO
b3Yg
MTk5NiAyMjozNzowNiAtMDUwMA0KUmVjZWl2ZWQ6IGZyb20gQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gWzE5
OS4y
MDEuODguM10gYnkgQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gd2l0aCBzbXRwDQoJaWQgQkdDRUNGQ0wgOyBT
dW4s
IDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6MzY6MzYgLTA1MDANClgtUk9VVEVEOiBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYg
MjI6
MzY6MzYgLTA1MDANClJlY2VpdmVkOiBmcm9tIEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIFsxOTkuMjAxLjg4
LjNd
IGJ5IEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIHdpdGggc210cA0KCWlkIEJHQ0VBSEJNIDsgU3VuLCAzIE5v
diAx
OTk2IDIyOjM2OjA2IC0wNTAwDQpYLVJPVVRFRDogU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjM2OjA2
IC0w
NTAwDQpSZWNlaXZlZDogZnJvbSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSBbMTk5LjIwMS44OC4zXSBieSBC
QlMu
TUFETkVULkNPTSB3aXRoIHNtdHANCglpZCBCR0NEQ0ZCQyA7IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAy
Mjoz
NTozNiAtMDUwMA0KWC1ST1VURUQ6IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozNTozNiAtMDUwMA0K
UmVj
ZWl2ZWQ6IGZyb20gQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gWzE5OS4yMDEuODguM10gYnkgQkJTLk1BRE5F
VC5D
T00gd2l0aCBzbXRwDQoJaWQgQkdDREFIQUQgOyBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6MzU6MDYg
LTA1
MDANClgtUk9VVEVEOiBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6MzU6MDYgLTA1MDANClJlY2VpdmVk
OiBm
cm9tIEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIFsxOTkuMjAxLjg4LjNdIGJ5IEJCUy5NQURORVQuQ09NIHdp
dGgg
c210cA0KCWlkIEJHQ0NDRUdDIDsgU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjM0OjM2IC0wNTAwDQpY
LVJP
VVRFRDogU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIyOjM0OjM2IC0wNTAwDQpSZWNlaXZlZDogZnJvbSBC
QlMu
TUFETkVULkNPTSBbMTk5LjIwMS44OC4zXSBieSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSB3aXRoIHNtdHAN
Cglp
ZCBCR0NDQUdFTiA7IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozNDowNiAtMDUwMA0KWC1ST1VURUQ6
IFN1
biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozNDowNiAtMDUwMA0KUmVjZWl2ZWQ6IGZyb20gQkJTLk1BRE5F
VC5D
T00gWzE5OS4yMDEuODguM10gYnkgQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00gd2l0aCBzbXRwDQoJaWQgQkdD
QkNG
QUEgOyBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjI6MzM6MzYgLTA1MDANClgtUk9VVEVEOiBTdW4sIDMg
Tm92
IDE5OTYgMjI6MzM6MzYgLTA1MDANClJlY2VpdmVkOiBmcm9tIFNvbGFyaXMubWFkbmV0LmNv
bSBb
MTk5LjIwMS44OC4xXSBieSBCQlMuTUFETkVULkNPTSB3aXRoIHNtdHANCglpZCBCR0NCQkJB
QiA7
IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozMzoxNiAtMDUwMA0KUmVjZWl2ZWQ6IGZyb20gQkJTLk1B
RE5F
VC5DT00gKEJCUy5tYWRuZXQuY29tIFsxOTkuMjAxLjg4LjNdKSBieSBTb2xhcmlzLm1hZG5l
dC5j
b20gKDguNi4xMi84LjYuOSkgd2l0aCBTTVRQIGlkIFZBQTEwMTc2IGZvciA8b2xkc21vYmls
ZUBj
aGVjYnVjdG8ubnMuY2E+OyBTdW4sIDMgTm92IDE5OTYgMjE6NTQ6MDEgLTA2MDANCkZyb206
IHdp
bGxpZUBtYWRuZXQuY29tDQpSZWNlaXZlZDogZnJvbSBNSFMgYnkgQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00g
d2l0
aCBNSFMNCiAgICBpZCBCRURFRENDRiA7IFN1biwgMyBOb3YgMTk5NiAyMjozMzoxNCAtMDUw
MA0K
RGF0ZTogU3VuLCAzIE5vdiAxOTk2IDIwOjUyOjUwIC0wNTAwIA0KTWVzc2FnZS1JRDogPFRD
UFNN
VFAuMTYuMTEuMy4tMTIuNTIuNTAuMjcxMjE4MDg4OS4yNTQ3NTRAQkJTLk1BRE5FVC5DT00+
DQpT
dWJqZWN0OiBPaCwgeWVhaC4NClRvOiBvbGRzbW9iaWxlQGNoZWNidWN0by5ucy5jYS5tYWRu
ZXQu
Y29tDQoNCkhlaCBJIGFsbW9zdCBmb3Jnb3QuIDopDQoNClRoZSAnNjkgRGVsdGEgaXMgdGhl
IEdy
ZWVuL0dyZWVuIGNvbG9yIHNjaGVtZSwgYW5kIGlzIGxvY3RhZWQgaW4gU3VuDQpQcmFpcmll
LCBX
SS4NCg0KVGhlIG90aGVyIG9uZSBpcyBsb2NhdGVkIGluIE1hZGlzb24sIFdJLg0KDQpJZiBh
bnkg
b2YgeW91IGFyZSBpbnRlcmVzdGVkLCBJIGFtIHdpbGxpbmcgdG8gZ28gY2hlY2sgJ2VtIG91
dCBm
b3IgeWEsDQpzaW5jZSBJIGxpdmUgaW4gTWFkaXNvbi4gIEZlZWwgZnJlZSB0byBnaXZlIG1l
IGEg
Y2FsbCBAICg2MDgpIDIyMi0wNDEwLg0KDQotU2hhbmUNClRoaXMgbWVzc2FnZSBzZW50IGZy
b20g
VGhlIE5ldCBCQlMgNjA4LTIyMS01NzAyLg0KVGVsbmV0IGFkZHJlc3M6IGJicy5tYWRuZXQu
Y29t
DQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0K
DQoN Cg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQo= - --tcpsmtp254977ab8548ab6383ab
Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


- --tcpsmtp254977ab8548ab6383ab--

------------------------------

From: willie@MADNET.COM
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 04:26:32 -0400
Subject: Lets try this ONE more time. :)

Heh I almost forgot. :)

The '69 Delta is the Green/Green color scheme, and is loctaed in Sun
Prairie, WI.

The other one is located in Madison, WI.

If any of you are interested, I am willing to go check 'em out for ya,
since I live in Madison.  Feel free to give me a call @ (608) 222-0410.

- -Shane


** There ya go, the original mail was misdirected to
"oldsmobile@checbucto.ns.ca", and it kept ping-ponging back and forth.
:)

- -Shane
This message sent from The Net BBS 608-221-5702.
Telnet address: bbs.madnet.com

------------------------------

From: Katana72@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:26:02 -0400
Subject: Re: early style 4 speed flywheel needed

Try Ray Hauser, 804-498-8136. I traded him a flywheel and clutch plate
from my 65 330 motor. I know he had it and would sell it if the price
was right. I could still read the numbers on the clutch disk when I gave
it to him and it was a factory clutch disk.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:11:34 -0400
Subject: Re: the city vs your car

> or paying public school taxs, when your kids are in private school
> (which costs you thru the nose) because the public schools are too
> overcrowded with persons kids from other lands.

Geez.  And what are you?  An American Indian?

> Kind of like paying school tax when you don't have children.

Or the Fire Department when you don't have a fires.

Want a recomendation on a political newgroup you can spew this on?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:06:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Dangerous new news virus!!!!! (SLIPPERY BULL SHIT)

Thank you, Esko.  I read that and didn't known where to begin.  (sigh)

> There is absolutely NO program that can damage your computer's
> circuitry.

Except maybe for these dreaded nth order complexity binary HEVOSEN
PASKAA loops.   ;)

> I would be willing to write a program that could detect messages
> that match certain criterias. This information could be used to
> block messages from entering the list.

Second the motion.  A Paskaa Filter!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Edison 3 <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:12:35 -0400
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:46:32 -0400
Subject: RE: 1964 F-85 Cutlass

Hello Esko
I agree with you about value.  My car is a 1970 Olds 98 LS.  My
Grandfather Tom Sytsma (A dutch name) saved up for years to buy the car.
 He passed away after only owning it six months.  My Grandmother did
not drive, So it sat in the Garage in Palm Beach, Florida for 16 years.
The only time on the road was when my Uncle a used car dealer visited
in the winter.  I got the car when Grandma died.  My wife drove it
until 1992 when Hurricane andrew did some damage to it.  I am driving
the car now. I hope to get the body work done to repair the dents from
the Hurricane and the rust around the rear window and trunk, which is
normal for a 1970 olds 98 LS.  The drive train is good, my brother is a
professional mechanic who lives nearby.  We replaced the engine 100,000
miles ago, and it is still good.  The Air cond even blows cold, which
is important in south Florida.  Now if I could only find a good body
man.......


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Esko Ilola wrote:

> Welcome to the list !
>
> If you have anything to ask about your car......
>
> I have a Ninety Eight from the same year than your car.
>
> In Finland there is only 14 Oldsmobiles from year 1964
> including all models. There is only ONE Ninety Eight here.
>
> To get parts to your car is not as hard as you have been told.
> Even here in Finland we have some and this list can help you a lot.
>
> I had my ignition switch fried. It took about ane week to locate one
> and mail it here to Finland. (Thanks for all participants and special
> thanks to Travis).
>
> The hardest parts to find are the interior details. If these are OK
> then you have a very fine and easy car to maintain.
>
> Maybe it is not the most valuable one but I think the value consists
of > more things than just the prize ticket. > > PS. > I recently
finished the PS gear overhaul. It doesn't leak any more. > Want a full
description about that? > > -- >
********************************************** > * Esko Ilola
* > * Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           * > * X400  G=esko
S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi * > * Tel.  +358 2040 3439
* > * Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   * > *       01610
VANTAA                         * > *       FINLAND
* > ********************************************** > * Oldsmobile Ninety
Eight 1964               * > *            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)
* > ********************************************** > > >

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:04:17 -0400
Subject: Re: the city vs your car

touche!
;)


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:

> > or paying public school taxs, when your kids are in private school
> > (which costs you thru the nose) because the public schools are too
> > overcrowded with persons kids from other lands.
>
> Geez.  And what are you?  An American Indian?
>
> > Kind of like paying school tax when you don't have children.
>
> Or the Fire Department when you don't have a fires.
>
> Want a recomendation on a political newgroup you can spew this on?
>
> The 66 Toro and Mike
>
>
> --
> Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>      Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>      (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Dennis W Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:17:03 -0400
Subject: Re: 1962 Hydramatic 3 speed

On Sun, 3 Nov 1996, George Torch wrote:
> I own a 62 Dynamic 88 that I've been using as a daily driver for
> about 3 years.  Two days ago the transmission took a dump.  Its
> the original 3 speed hydramatic coupled to the 394.  I'd like to
> get this car back on the road as soon as possible.  Are there any
> other more common transmissions that will fit up to the 394 without
> major modifications?  If not, does anyone know were I can get the
> entire control valve body or a working trans?  I live in NW Indiana
> and would be willing to travel several hundred miles.
>                             George Torch
>                        curiousg@crown.icongrp.com

Good morning: I do not know if you saw my previous post here but I
tried to get someone interested in a 62 Starfire convertible that I
found a couple of weeks ago.  I haven't approached the yard owner
about it yet as I am quite a ways from it (120 miles).  Car is in
eastern South Dakota and is missing engine, perhaps trans, but hood
and bucket seats are there.  Top bows are there but tail lights are
missing.  Let me know if you would be interested as it is a shame
to let a car like that sit out.
dj

------------------------------

From: Dennis W Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:23:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

Hey, saw your post about the carb man in Perrine.  My brother
lives in Cutler Ridge!  Did your place get munched by Andrew
also?
dj, in South Dakota

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:58:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant recovery

Dave Paulison wrote:

> Does anybody have a method for effective cleaning of a coolant
recovery > bottle??  I got one today out of a '71 Buick for my Olds, and
the white > opaque plastic is rather filthy.  Other than cleaning the
actual grime off > of it (which I _think_ I can handle without help), is
there a way to restore > the look (color) of the plastic?  The top of it
is black plastic; can that > be restored as well?

In my 68 442 I noticed when I bought it that it didn't have a coolant
recovery bottle.  I had my radiator repair man service my radiator and
put a recovery bottle on.  Did these cars come with a bottle?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:13:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant recovery

Chris,
72 was the first year for a factory recovery bottle.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:18:44 -0400
Subject: Re: '68-72 Cutlass wanted

Jimmy,
I am going to pickup a 72 convt. Wednesday, and I know where a 72 442 is
that's for sale. I live in Kennedale, near Ft. Worth. I'll let you know

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:37:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:47:05 -0400
Subject: Re: bucket seats

Hey Olds-weenies,

     I have a bench seat in my 68 442.  Is it possible to replace with
bucket seats?

Chris Sparks :-)))

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:52:03 -0400
Subject: parting out 81 olds cutlass LS

I am parting out an 81 olds cutlass LS (4-door)

send me your inquireies, and an offer.  I can send you a picture of the
item before you have to receive anything.

hey, I'm a fair guy... I'll help you out when ever I can.

- --joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:53:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

>Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
>hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
>lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.

Yep ( I think).  Mine has been messed up since summer when the pinhead
did my floors and carpet.

Adding buckets is possible.   There are tradeoffs though, originality,
cost, man (person) hours...

Roger Borlase
'72 Cutlass Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:57:07 -0400
Subject: RE: bucket seats

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCA3E.EC9B3B80
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

What kind of a weenie would want to do that? :)

- ----------
From: 	Chris Sparks[SMTP:sparks@aisf.com]
Sent: 	Monday, November 04, 1996 10:47 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: bucket seats

Hey Olds-weenies,

     I have a bench seat in my 68 442.  Is it possible to replace with
bucket seats?

Chris Sparks :-)))




- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCA3E.EC9B3B80
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

eJ8+IggPAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAMAAwAB
BJAG
ADgBAAABAAAADAAAAAMAADADAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAFEAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmd
bgDd
AQ9UAgAAAABvbGRzbW9iaWxlQGNoZWJ1Y3RvLm5zLmNhAFNNVFAAb2xkc21vYmlsZUBjaGVi
dWN0
by5ucy5jYQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAGgAAAG9sZHNtb2JpbGVA
Y2hl
YnVjdG8ubnMuY2EAAAADABUMAQAAAAMA/g8GAAAAHgABMAEAAAAcAAAAJ29sZHNtb2JpbGVA
Y2hl
YnVjdG8ubnMuY2EnAAIBCzABAAAAHwAAAFNNVFA6T0xEU01PQklMRUBDSEVCVUNUTy5OUy5D
QQAA
AwAAOQAAAAALAEA6AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAPaPQEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNyb3Nv
ZnQg
TWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQSAAQARAAAAUkU6IGJ1Y2tldCBzZWF0cwCvBQEFgAMADgAAAMwHCwAE
AAoA
OQAHAAEALQEBIIADAA4AAADMBwsABAAKADgANQABAFoBAQmAAQAhAAAARDkyRjVGRkMyOTM2
RDAx
MUI1MjUwMEEwMjQwMzM5QTYA/gYBA5AGAHADAAASAAAACwAjAAAAAAADACYA/////wsAKQAA
AAAA
AwA2AAAAAABAADkAANmn1GjKuwEeAHAAAQAAABEAAABSRTogYnVja2V0IHNlYXRzAAAAAAIB
cQAB
AAAAFgAAAAG7ymjUp/xfL9o2KRHQtSUAoCQDOaYAAB4AHgwBAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgAf
DAEA
AAARAAAAamJlYXVzb2xAZnRwLmNvbQAAAAADAAYQBcN3qwMABxABAQAAHgAIEAEAAABlAAAA
V0hB
VEtJTkRPRkFXRUVOSUVXT1VMRFdBTlRUT0RPVEhBVD86KS0tLS0tLS0tLS1GUk9NOkNIUklT
U1BB
UktTU01UUDpTUEFSS1NAQUlTRkNPTVNFTlQ6TU9OREFZLE5PVkVNQgAAAAACAQkQAQAAAPkB
AAD1
AQAA4QMAAExaRnU/Q/sB/wAKAQ8CFQKoBesCgwBQAvIJAgBjaArAc2V0MjcGAAbDAoMyA8UC
AHBy
QnER4nN0ZW0CgzN3AuQHEwKAfQqACM8J2TvxFg8yNTUCgAqBDbELYOBuZzEwMxRQCwoUUWUL
8mMA
QCBXEYAFQGsBC4BkIG9mIGEgXncJ4QiQG9AIYGwbcHdDAHAFQHRvIGQdEHRhGwE/IDopCoUK
i2wQ
aTE4MALRaS0xPDQ0DfAM0B/DC1kxNtcKoANgE9BjBUAtIecKh9cgmwwwIWZGA2E6Iu4hZnEM
giBD
aAUQBkEKsWsAc1tTTVRQOnNFJxNAC3BzZi4FoG1+XSKPI50GYAIwJM8l200hAiBkYXksB7Bv
dkUT
4GIEkCAwNC1AMQg5OTYuIDA6NDfNFLBNKM8jnVRvKw8l2ykG8GRzBGBiAxBlQJERcGVidSGw
by4A
gI0ocGEvDynedWJqIaGzMS8l21JlNwAz4WsRwDYgEbAbEHMd7x7zMzYHIGcaRSFmSGV5IE9l
MxEt
G+RzLDnsPsNJ3iARgC2AG7EtsG4RcDmDEiALgCBtPQA2OCBZH9AyLj8BBCBpBUBw+m8EEGkC
YBww
HQEWEAtRfmMcMUGAP/A5JAqFOZM/5znsJqodsC0pRkA57DnvLzr/PAwKhRUxAEsAAAAAAwAQ
EAAA
AAADABEQAAAAAEAABzDgZmDMaMq7AUAACDDgZmDMaMq7AR4APQABAAAABQAAAFJFOiAAAAAA
ZOY=

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCA3E.EC9B3B80--

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:49:52 -0400
Subject: I'm back...

Hi all,

Well, it took a week to all-but-fully recover from our office move,
but things seem to be up and running again for the most part. Please
note our new everything (address, phones) in my .sig below. Those
of you who requested JPG photos of your cars from our Fuddruckers
get-together of last month should have them now; if you asked and
have received nothing, please let me know. I hope to get something
more organized sent off to Bryce for everyone's viewing in the near
future.

For the time being I've subscribed to the digest version of this
list. If anyone is (inexplicably) subscribed to both real-time and
digest versions, and is therefore reading this message on _Monday_,
I'd love to get a copy of the latest digest so I can get caught up.
I sort of thought Majordomo would send it out automatically when it
sent the welcome message, but apparently it does not.

Made a rather interesting discovery about the lift-type outside door
handles -- the kind that tend to make a *graunch* noise when you try
to open them on an aging GM car -- which I'll write about when I get
a chance. Anyone who owns a car built at the Lordstown, Ohio plant
on February 6, 1987 will want to pay attention.  :-)  Cheers, all!

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:05:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

On Nov 4, 11:37am, Chris Sparks wrote:
> Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light
> Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
> hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
> lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442
>
>-- End of excerpt from Chris Sparks

Chris - Yes, that is correct, it's only on when your lights are on.

cooler ta cruise,                                _   _
                                                 _| | |
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick \/\/ _| |_| red

             (MCORNEA@pt8228.pto.ford.com)

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:05:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

> Date sent:      Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:53:45 -0400
> From:           "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: Engine courtesy light
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> >Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
> >hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
> >lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.
>
> Yep ( I think).  Mine has been messed up since summer when the pinhead
did my > floors and carpet. >


>  Yes, every Olds that I have ever owned with a courtesy light works
in that same matter >

Joe Barker

84 Cutlass Calais Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:15:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

On  4 Nov 96 at 11:53, Roger M. Borlase wrote:
> >Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
> >hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
> >lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.

In the past,  my cars (77 Vista Cruiser, 86 Ciera, 91 Quad442) as
well as my parents multiple Olds have all worked that way....

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 04:05:27 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Garage Advice Wanted

     I second these.  I have a flourescent drop light, and it's one of
the
     best tools I ever bought.  It's wonderful!  The light is spread out
so
     you don't get as many shadows.  It's a bit smaller diameter than
most
     incandescent drop lights, so you can slide it into odd places.
Most
     importantly, it's cool!  You can brush your arm up against it
without
     worrying.  You can work with your hands right in front of the bulb
for
     as long as you want.

     When I build my new garage soon, I'm going to try to incorporate
one
     of these on a retractable spool that unrolls from the ceiling.

     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: RE: Garage Advice Wanted
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    11/4/96 1:04 AM

There exists portable fluorescent tubes that have a strong acrylic
shield and rubber bumbers. These are much more tolerable than their
halogen partners and they don't heat up. Also the light from these
won't generate as deep shadows as the halogen version does.


------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:20:08 -0400
Subject: Re[4]: Intake Gaskets

During which, Mondello says to dimple the front and rear rails where the
 rubber strip goes with a center punch for better sealing.  Has anyone
tried this?  Does it apply to small blocks too?

You only do that if you are using silicone to replace the rubber seals,
so that the silicone has something to "grab" onto. Don't do it if you
are just using the rubber seals; they are meant to seal against a
smooth surface. I guess if you do end up dimpling those rails, you have
to stick with silicone there (my personally favored way, btw).

          I disagree.  The dimpling serves to keep the rubber gasket
          from squeezing out when you torque down the intake manifold,
          which will happen unless it is perfectly aligned prior to
          torquing.  I have used the dimpling with the factory-style
          rubber gaskets with no problem.  I usually add a dab of
          silicone at the rubber gasket to metal pan joint (front and
          back corners of the intake).  I also run a bead of silicone
          around the coolant passages in the metal pan gasket prior to
          installation.  I usually let it set up before installing the
          gasket, so it serves as a psuedo-o-ring.  I've never had a
          leakage problem.  And yes, big and small block Olds motors
          are the same.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:39:59 -0400
Subject: RE: bucket seats

RE: Olds-weenies


> What kind of a weenie would want to do that? :)
>
> ----------
> From: 	Chris Sparks[SMTP:sparks@aisf.com]
> Sent: 	Monday, November 04, 1996 10:47 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: bucket seats
>
> Hey Olds-weenies,
>
>      I have a bench seat in my 68 442.  Is it possible to replace with
bucket > seats? > > Chris Sparks :-)))

I mean enthusiast! :-))))  Guess what I have been accused of?  People
accuse me of being obsessive about my car!  The nerve.:-)))

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 15:50:49 -0400
Subject: Re: I'm back...

Wacky Andrew C. Green at Wacker Drive wrote:
>
> Well, it took a week to all-but-fully recover from our office move,
> but things seem to be up and running again for the most part.

Oh, there you are.  I thought you moved to another planet.

> I'd love to get a copy of the latest digest so I can get caught up.

The last 7 days (if received) of both the Toro and the Olds digests are
available dor downloading at http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolink.html
 Just one of the wonderful services brought to you by the Toro-weenies.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:47:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Intake Gaskets

At 11:20 AM 11/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
>During which, Mondello says to dimple the front and rear rails where
the [snip] >You only do that if you are using silicone to replace the
rubber seals, so [snip] >          I disagree.  The dimpling serves to
keep the rubber gasket >          from squeezing out when you torque
down the intake manifold, >          which will happen unless it is
perfectly aligned prior to >          torquing.  I have used the
dimpling with the factory-style >          rubber gaskets with no
problem.  I usually add a dab of [snip] >          Joe Padavano

OK, I stand corrected. When I considered using the factory-type seals
(Fel-Pro), I noticed that they had "ribs" on the bottom of the rubber
strips. Intuitively it seemed that dimples might have provided a path
for oil to leak past these ribs, but I guess in actual practice that
doesn't matter.

My Toro's end-seals are squeezed-out, so I'll be doing this soon enough
anyway; has anyone had any luck salvaging the stock turkey-tray? I
recall someone here reusing theirs, and thought that I might be able to
reseal the intake just using silicone around the water passages and
end-seals, and copper spray gasket around the intake ports (that stuff
is *sticky*!).

PS: Computer Tech tip of the day- If you put a "MailTo:" in front of the
e-mail address in your .sig, some e-mail readers recognize it as a URL,
and people can e-mail you directly by just double-clicking on it when
reading your message.
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:03:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding

Hi,

I was wondering if it would be worth it, when the time comes, when I
rebuild my engine (400) rebore it out to a 425 or a 455?  Can it be
done?  Just curious.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 01:03:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

Chris Sparks wrote:
>
> Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
> hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
> lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442

The yes part--
Olds is the only maker I know that was intelligent about this.
Why would anyone want the light under the hood to come on when the hood
is opened during the day. This would be battery drain, minimal yes, but
how long have you left the hood up?
The no part--
You should not need to turn the headlights on, just the parking lights.
There is a switch (mercury?) in the light itself so that it doesn't turn
on when the parking lights or headlights are on if the hood is closed.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:15:35 -0400
Subject: State vs You and your property

>>> Now, the government has license
to come onto YOUR property and remove YOUR property (car) if it
doesn't meet the standards that THEY have imposed.  Pretty pathetic
when you stop and think about it, isn't it?<<<

I trust we all will consider the problems elected officials are causing
that degrade our rights for old cars and other subjects and express our
concern at the ballot box.

We should all also support the efforts of SEMA, etc. in fighting these
laws.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:15:19 -0400
Subject: '71 Cutlass Fenders

 >>1971
Oldsmobile Service Manual. If you know where I can get a trunk lid let
me know. I also need a left front fender. Luckily my right fender is
rust free, those are harder to get.<<<

You should be able to walk down to your local Olds dealer and order one.
 Hurry, they are probably getting scarcer.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:15:39 -0400
Subject: Cleaning the Overflow Bottle

>>>>>>Does anybody have a method for effective cleaning of a coolant
recovery bottle??  I got one today out of a '71 Buick for my Olds, and
the white opaque plastic is rather filthy.  Other than cleaning the
actual grime off of it (which I _think_ I can handle without help), is
there a way to restore the look (color) of the plastic?  The top of it
is black plastic; can that be restored as well?

Thanks!
- - --
Dave Paulison<<<<<<<

Dave:

Try bleach first.  Then try a _little_ laquer thinner on the outside to
see if it will melt the plastic.  If that's OK slosh some around the
inside.  If the staining is really deep nothing will work.  I believe
these bottles may still be available new from GM, believe it or not.  GM
has a lot of stuff still.

Contact Drew Koba at Fountain Olds. 800-456-8701.  He can at least tell
you if they are available.

I've had great luck on black pieces using spray cans of paint.  Pick the
appropriate black finish (gloss, flat, semi-flat, ultra-flat) and just
_fog_ it lightly until you get the desired appearance.  We saved the
black plastic fender liners on the SX.  Seemed the previous owner loved
undercoat and gloss black paint in the engine compartment _everywhere_.
By the time I stripped all the c*ap out they didn't look too good.
Fogging them with flat black made them look as good as new.

On a related note, Drew Koba tells me that GM has original trunk rubber
seals which he claims are much better than the repro stuff.  Apparently
the GM stuff is much more softer and seals better.  It also, of course,
costs a lot more but may explain why the '67s trunk doesn't seal as well
as it should.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:15:13 -0400
Subject: 66 Rear

>>>>>From: kdporter@midwest.net (kdporter)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 01:22:29 -0400
Subject: Question on rear end

I have a rear end out of a 66-67,B-O-P the casting on the rear is dated
early 66 the ring gear is dated late 66.The rear end is a 3.55 posi,the
center section has a "N" on it.I need to know if it is a pon.buick or a
olds? The letters Z-H are stamped in the left axle housing.   thanks
kdporter kdporter@midwest.net<<<<<<<<

Look at the rib(s) cast into the side of the center section.  If there
is only one rib it is a "B" Buick rear.  If there are two converging
(towards the front of the car) ribs it is a "P" Pontiac rear.  The
single rib rears are much weaker than the two rib versions.  Among other
things the number and size of the pinion gear splines are smaller.

The 3.55 posi is almost certainly a two pinion posi, while good it is
not extremely strong.  It is also a cone type posi unit. If that is shot
it cannot be rebuilt in the same fashion as the plate/friction type.
They can however be made functional with a little work.  The 4-pinion
posi case is pretty good, a lot stronger.  You can not (legally) install
anything lower than 3.55 gears.  The case changes for the 3.90 and lower
gears (higher numerically).

The '65 thru early '67 axels are also weaker.  I've twisted my share.
:-)

I am quite familiar with these rears, If you have any other questions
please email me direct.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 16:20:38 -0400
Subject: Computer Tip, Was: Intake Gaskets

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> PS: Computer Tech tip of the day- If you put a "MailTo:" in front of
> the e-mail address in your .sig, some e-mail readers recognize it as a
 > URL, and people can e-mail you directly by just double-clicking on
it > when reading your message.

Same holds true for web pages.  If you put the "http://"
in front of the URL, you also get a clickable hyperlink.
As in http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #352
********************************
