To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca@INTERNET1
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca@INTERNET1 @ ABTLAB
Date:	12/04/96 03:03:27 AM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #391


oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 4 December 1996     Volume 01 :
Number 391


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 05:50:54 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Adding Gauges

     I'd go with the brass.  Brass is a softer metal so that if you
bugger
     anything up [unlike myself, who's always perfect ;-) ], you're far
     more likely to mess up the T than the threads in your block.  Check

     another hardware store, they're not that hard to find.

     Just FYI, the other weekend I went down to the local Eagle Hardware
to
     get an adaptor to fit a sensor in my new Edelbrock manifold.  They
not
     only had brass and cast iron fittings, but also had stainless steel

     and chrome ones too!  Neat!  I wanted the stainless, but I was
kinda
     poor at the time, so I got the brass.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Adding Gauges Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    12/3/96 7:51 AM


>Bonus round>  Should I be using the cast iron pipe and T's I found
>at the local hardware store, or should I keep looking for brass pipe
>and connectors?

I like the brass better but did use a cast-iron fitting on a car of
mine once. But (going out on a limb here) I could see cast iron cracking
 under, um, weird circumstances where brass might not.

I'd keep looking for brass fittings. They shouldn't be hard to find at
a big hardware store.

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:11:04 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: GM Quality

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Especially black?  Try especially silver.  Have you ever seen a
silver=20 GM car that was more than a day and a half old where the paint
still = looked as it should.  It washes off the car at the first rain;
and looks =

like hell in the first week; and yes they con't do well with black =
either. =20
I wonder how Mercedes-Benz keeps the silver on their cars, and GM=20
can't.

At risk of starting another flame war I am going to tell you about an =
airplane.
It is a WWI Bristol.  They made a replica of one in England as there =
were
none remaining.  As they proudly trotted it out, everyone sat around and
smilingly (for a while anyway) watched it burst into flames.  Seems that
somewhere between 1918 and the present the "experts" forgot that the
sunlight would stream through the translucent wing covering (muslin with
shellac), hit the bottom covering at just that perfect angle, arc =
upwards
(generating heat in the process), and back down, etc., until the temps
reached flash point. =20
I suspect that this is what is happening with silver paint.  The suns =
rays
hit it at an angle that is different from the other colors, lifting the
= paint=20 from it's primer.  As I see it, FoMoCo uses acrylic enamel,
GM uses=20 acrylic lacquer.  Both companies have trouble with silver,
pale blue, = etc.  Seems Toyo has a problem as well.  MB...there are not
enough of = them=20 in South Dakota to make an impression on me.  Around
here a Plymouth=20 is considered the designated "foreign car" as we have
so few of the real thing. I do not think it is a GM/FoMo/Toy problem.
It is a physics = problem...and may not have a solution. dj  =20



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From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:19:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Viking stats

The Wiz writes:

> I've seen two.  A cabriolet project in my garage, and a 4 door in
storage.


There is a fine example of a '29 Viking convertible (w/ rumble seat) in
the R. E. Olds museum in Lansing.  It's pale yellow, with black running
boards, and a tan interior. Maybe the folks there could provide
info/literature?

Mike Turley        '66 442
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:30:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: GM Quality

>I suspect that this is what is happening with silver paint.  The suns
rays >hit it at an angle that is different from the other colors,
lifting the paint >from it's primer.  As I see it, FoMoCo uses acrylic
enamel, GM uses >acrylic lacquer.

I think the problem with silver is more likely the fact that it's not
a pigment like the other colors, but a powder. Lose the protective
clearcoat and you can scrub the individual silver particles away a
lot easier than you can rub off the colored enamel or lacquer of the
other colors.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:59:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: GM Quality

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- ----------
From: 	Andrew C. Green[SMTP:acg@dlogics.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, December 03, 1996 12:30 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	RE: Re[2]: GM Quality

>I suspect that this is what is happening with silver paint.  The suns
rays >hit it at an angle that is different from the other colors,
lifting the paint >from it's primer.  As I see it, FoMoCo uses acrylic
enamel, GM uses >acrylic lacquer.

I think the problem with silver is more likely the fact that it's not
a pigment like the other colors, but a powder. Lose the protective
clearcoat and you can scrub the individual silver particles away a
lot easier than you can rub off the colored enamel or lacquer of the
other colors.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

I disagree.  It is coming off in chunks, not adhering to the primer.
That is why I suspect some sort of oxidizing action being generated
by the bending of the suns rays.
I bought a flat silver enamel once that would rub off like the kind
you mention.  It would just get thin and present a smooth edge
when the primer showed through.
dj


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From: ndg@traverse.com (Nielsen Design Group)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 15:12:25 -0400
Subject: The Golden 66 Toro

Hello all,

Plan to start the work on my 66 Toro this weekend.
I've always wanted to drive a Toro in the winter... This is my big
chance!

All I have to do is hook up the fuel line (previous owner disconnected
it when the car went into storage), rebuild the Qjet (accelerator pump
spews gas wildly... I caught her on fire once already!), run brake lines
to the re= ar wheels, and put the exhaust on. There was even a brand-new
muffler included with the car!

I will need pipes and those coooool chrome tips. Anybody got some?

I may get a brand new NOS 66 Toro carb from Chris Witt; the one on the
car is not original anyway... It's a 1967 Ch*vy unit, now blackened
slightly from my little flamb=E9 party. Should still be sellable to the
ch*vy crowd, tho.

Everyone is telling me I'm crazy to drive this car and not park it for
later restoration. It's not like it's a pristine rust-free California
car or anything... It's a Michigan car, I say drive it!

What does everyone think?

- -Darren Shroeger
     & the ever-growing stable:
 68 442 Hardtop, 68 Delmont Town Sedan
 66 Toronado Deluxe, 67 Toronado

Nielsen Design Group
114 East Front Street
Traverse City, Michigan 49684
t:616.946.0925
f:616.946.2363
e:ndg@traverse.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 15:15:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: GM Quality

>I disagree.

We _really_ need to ramp up the emotion around here; things are
getting way too boring. Something like "Andy you blankety-blank
where exactly do you get off spouting this kind of drivel..."

>It is coming off in chunks, not adhering to the primer.

I think we may be talking about a different problem here; I have
seen bad-primer problems and those do let go in chunks. There are a
couple of Corsicas running around my home town where I swear they
must have peeled off the loose pieces in sheets. Both are blue, BTW.
I think you can have bad primer problems regardless of color -- don't
know if they use a different primer for gold and silver, though...

>I bought a flat silver enamel once that would rub off like the kind
>you mention.  It would just get thin and present a smooth edge
>when the primer showed through.

This is what _I_ think of as the classic GM silver problem. My brother
had a textbook example of this on his silver '78 Camaro. Over the years
we watched it get thinner and thinner, until you could actually see the
factory sprayer patterns on the hood, with primer showing through.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <76057.1404@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:08:38 -0400
Subject: Q-jet rebuilds

The reason you don't see repair parts like shaft bushings is because
they aren't intended to be field serviced.  I had a problem with the
secondary air valve shaft on my 442 and decided to take it apart.  Even
though I was real careful, I brike one of the swaged screws off trying
to remove it.  Trying to drill it out and tap it is even harder.  The
screw is harder than the shaft and the drill walks off center.  Needless
to say, my air horn has a replacement shaft in it. Oh, you can't buy a
replacement shaft new either.  I had to pick up another Oldsmobile Q-jet
of a Vin Y engine and transfer the shaft from it.  Good as new.


                              ---------------------------
Steve Ochs  aka  N8TYS        |                         |
Engineer                      |     ##     ###     ###  |
GM Powertrain -               |   #    #   #  #   #  #  |
Transmission Division         |  #         #   # #   #  |
(4T60/65-E)                   |  #   ####  #    #    #  |
                              |   #    #   #         #  |
'87 Olds 442                  |     ##     #         #  |
'87 Grand National            |                         |
'76 Cutlass 'S'               |  The Mark of Exellence  |
'96 Blazer LT                 ---------------------------

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:11:15 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality

About that silver paint. It was explained to me by one of the top custom
painters of the time, as an oxidation problem. Something about the light
colored metallics being very sensitive due to a lack of pigments in the
paint. Basically a dark color shades the metallic particles giving them
a longer life. It make sense to me because you don't see the same
problems with non-metallic paints.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:25:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Starter motor question

For the 190K miler, just put in a new set of brushes, a little hi-temp
grease on each end bushing, and you are set for another 100,000 miles!
Maybe splurge and replace the end bushings!

Most likely the slow cranking is the result of a problem with the
armature or pole shoes.  This is a good trade in core :).

I remember offhand to check the ring gear to pinon gear gap with a
feeler gauge. You will have to look up the spec.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Olds FAQ 2.0 at: http://www.en.com/users/thall/
                 ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- -----------
Even after 190,000 miles of use, it still
cranked perfectly, and even sounds a lot better than the rebuilt one.

Questions: Which starter rebuild kit is recommended?
             (Canadian Tire carries a no-name one, and is of dubious
quality)
           In the case of installing a rebuilt starter, what is the
             best method to shim the starter to achieve quieter
operation?

Thanks,

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:25:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

> One thing I noticed immediately was that you guys want to hurt the
> thief and hurt him bad. Wouldn't it be better to keep him alive
> telling other creeps what you should do and what you should NOT do ?

I don't know anything about Finnish Law, but here in the USA
the theif can sue you for getting hurt trying to steal your car.
Yes, that's right ladies and gents -- if you were to somehow
rig a trap to slice of fingers, electricly shock, or otherwise
harm the thief you could end up in court paying for their medical
(and other) expenses.  It sucks but it's true.  I think that's
a lot of why we want to kill someone rather than deter them.
Dead men can't file civil lawsuits against you.


> Would you dare to step into a car that has a dog inside ?

I'm in Texas.  I wouldn't dare keep a dog inside my car.
The poor animal would probably fry from the heat in less
than an hour.


> We have an 5 months old Irish wolfhound puppy. He's already 60
> centimeters tall and wighs well over 40 kg.

That's about 2 feet tall and 90 lb for you non-metric types. :)


- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

This account gets deactivated on 6 December 1996
Please direct your replies to travism@utdallas.edu
(ps to Greg if you're reading this, don't worry, I'll unsubscribe in
time)

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:17:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Adding Gauges

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>

>Wow, this man _really_ thinks ahead!

If I'm such a forward thinker, why am I buy gauges now, years after
getting the car?  :-)

>>re: special 45 degree elbow

>Use whatever angle will clear for your application. 2", 1", 90 degrees,
>45 degrees, whatever works.

Well, the GM elbow is > $20 from Year One.  I'm trying to save some
cash.

>> steel vs. brass

>I'd keep looking for brass fittings. They shouldn't be hard to find at
>a big hardware store.

So far the search has only turned up steel pipe in 1/8" sizes at the
local ACE Hardware.  Havent found anything in brass at this size yet.
Any recommendations on where to look?  I'd rather not make my engine
look like a plumbing experiment. :-)

Thanks to Joe and the Wiz for their comments too.

Hate to mention this until I actually have something that works,
but the final product is going to be a small 20x2 line LCD panel
that sits in the ash tray area and shows the RPM, Oil, Water and Volts
on the display.  It will be using AutoMeter's senders.  I'm striving for
the stealth look, so I dont want to mess up the engine compartment
with lots of plumbing, and the dash will still look stock when you flip
the ash tray door down.

This is a winter project, something to do to keep me off the streets.
Hopefully it wont turn into one of those "mightaswells" and I end
up with a computer controlled EFI unit for the 455...  :-)

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442 4-Speed

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:49:29 -0400
Subject: Beer Logic (Was Re: Adding Gauges)

>>Wow, this man _really_ thinks ahead!
>
>If I'm such a forward thinker, why am I buy gauges now, years after
>getting the car?  :-)

Well, a friend of mine would say that you're demonstrating "beer logic",
which is what you supposedly get when you stop to have a beer and think
the problem through instead of jumping into it right away.

His own example of Beer Logic was when he hired to install a garden gate
one day, where the house was on one side and the garage was on the
other. At a glance it seemed like it wouldn't matter which way the gate
would swing (in towards the house or out towards the garage), but while
 knocking back his liquid refreshment at lunch, it dawned on him that
after a big snowfall, the homeowner would shovel his way down the path
towards the gate, then would _need_ to have the gate swing _inwards_
into the area he'd just cleared, not outwards against a mountain of snow
that he couldn't reach until he got the gate open.

>>I'd keep looking for brass fittings. They shouldn't be hard to find at
>>a big hardware store.
>
>So far the search has only turned up steel pipe in 1/8" sizes at the
local >ACE Hardware.  Havent found anything in brass at this size yet.
Any >recommendations on where to look?

Oh, great, I forgot you live not far from me, so now you want _real_
advice and not stuff I just make up...  Well, I think NAPA had a bunch
of those little pieces, also Forest City Auto Parts, but it's been a
while. I'll hunt around.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "JAMES D. II BENHAM" <BENHAMJA@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:12:11 -0400
Subject: Re: *NON Olds* humor - (uncensored)

these were the worst jokes i have ever heard in my life.  you guys
all need to get a life, or at least laid.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:06:41 -0400
Subject: Re: The Golden 66 Toro

Nielsen Design Group wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Plan to start the work on my 66 Toro this weekend.
> I've always wanted to drive a Toro in the winter... This is my big
chance! > > > > Everyone is telling me I'm crazy to drive this car and
not park it for > later restoration. It's not like it's a pristine
rust-free California car > or anything... It's a Michigan car, I say
drive it! > > What does everyone think? > > -Darren Shroegerom

Darren,

Those cars are for driving.  I even drive my '62 Jetfire.  Where's the
fun if you don't?  I know it means a sooner re-do than parking it, but I
need the fun.

This isn't to suggest abuse, driving in salt, getting rained on all the
time, leaving it out in the sun, or anthing like that.  It just means
to  do with it as it was intended when built.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:20:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Adding Gauges

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996 Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com wrote:
> >I'd keep looking for brass fittings. They shouldn't be hard to find
at > >a big hardware store. > > So far the search has only turned up
steel pipe in 1/8" sizes at the local > ACE Hardware.  Havent found
anything in brass at this size yet.  Any > recommendations on where to
look?  I'd rather not make my engine > look like a plumbing experiment.
:-)

If I was looking for brass fittings like these I would skip the auto
parts and general hardware places in favor of an industrial supply house
 or a hydraulics repair place. Having said that, my favorite auto parts
 place here has a nice wall display of all sorts of brass fittings, so
maybe you just need a better class of parts store... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:19:36 -0400
Subject: RE: *NON Olds* humor - (uncensored)

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBE135.C7A4C040
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Here we go again....

- ----------
From: 	JAMES D. II BENHAM[SMTP:BENHAMJA@mailserv1.ferris.edu]
Sent: 	Tuesday, December 03, 1996 4:12 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: *NON Olds* humor - (uncensored)

these were the worst jokes i have ever heard in my life.  you guys
all need to get a life, or at least laid.




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------------------------------

From: "Jason Hairston" <jth442@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:19:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

Don't forget that a vandal who has just been shocked might just throw a
rock thru the windshield.

Jason Hairston
77 442

- ----------
From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
Subject: RE: Ways to keep vandals off your car
Date: Tuesday, December 03, 1996 8:25 AM

Ya, but won' the dog destroy your interior? It is also illegal in some
parts of the country to leave an animal in a vehicle.

I like the solution of having the thief locked inside of the car while
an alarm goes off.

One of the most annoying things is just the random acts of violence that
the kids do around here. They will scrape the shit out of your car just
to take the oldsmobile logos and emblems off. They will bend you
antennas, steal your chrome tail pipe extensions, anything they can get
their hands on. Thats why I think the best deterrent is to wire the car
for a little jolt. If they can't get near enough to the car to steal
anything, then they won't be able to take out their frustrations on it
either.

- ----------
From: 	Esko Ilola[SMTP:esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi]
Sent: 	Tuesday, December 03, 1996 1:33 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Ways to keep vandals off your car

One thing I noticed immediately was that you guys want to hurt the
thief and hurt him bad. Wouldn't it be better to keep him alive
telling other creeps what you should do and what you should NOT do ?
Too much hurting may just wake the devil demanding revenge. I think that
a reasonable amount of fear is a good way to protect.

I've heard that you have a dog problem there in USA and especially in
Florida. Well, we don't have it, because 'wild' dogs would die during
the long winter. The dogs we have receive a good care and are usually
well trained.

Would you dare to step into a car that has a dog inside ?

No, not a pekingese but perhaps an ugly looking bullterrier or
a mountain sized wolfhound?

The good thing in wolfhound is that it is so friendly that the thief
has no room for working under the dash. Instead he gets slicked slimy.

We have an 5 months old Irish wolfhound puppy. He's already 60
centimeters tall and wighs well over 40 kg. He will almost double that
when he is full grown.

Does this classify as a resto tip ?
- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************





- ----------

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:29:25 -0400
Subject: Re: *NON Olds* humor - (uncensored)

JAMES D. II BENHAM wrote:
>
> these were the worst jokes i have ever heard in my life.  you guys
> all need to get a life, or at least laid.

Another charm school dropout.   ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:30:37 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality and Rust

Here in Nova Scotia they go crazy spreading road salt, to the point
where you can actually taste it in the air near any busy road. We had a
bit of frozen precip here one day last week and on the weekend there
were little white mountains of salt at just about every controlled
intersection where the salt trucks had to stop for red lights or
whatever and just kept the salt shaker going. So needless to say the
rust problem here is severe for just about any car.

But you do see definite patterns. The G-body GMs of the late 70's
through early 80s seem particularly prone to problems in the rear
frame, door bottoms, and rear bumper area. The rear bumpers are almost
always rusted out on these and also on full-size GMs of this era around
here. So I would have to say there was a design or supply quality
problem there. Of course, they weren't the first. Back in the 70's
almost all Japanese cars rotted out within even less time, and there
was a brief period in the late 60's where British cars were popular
here. They were the 2 worst examples I can think of offhand. But the GM
midsizes of '73 to '77 were far from good this way either, and there
are virtually none of those here these days. In fact, I'd venture to
say that you see more of the previous '68 to '72 generation around
here.

Up here, we swear by the Rust Check and Krown rustproofing treatments.
It's sort of a thick WD-40 type stuff that they spray into every crevice
 and which you have to re-do each year. Well worth the investment if
you don't want to fall through the floorboards someday.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 15:03:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Adding Gauges

FWIW. I have used a pipe and 45 degree elbow on my 455's oil pressure
transducer since 1985 with no problems. I had to use a 45 to clear the
intake. An idiot light sender might not make this neccessary. I could
not locate an original style fitting at the time. I will replace it with
the correct fitting for looks since they are available now.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:31:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

>> Would you dare to step into a car that has a dog inside ?
>>
>>
>> The good thing in wolfhound is that it is so friendly that the thief
>> has no room for working under the dash. Instead he gets slicked
slimy. >>

I very seldom let animals in my car, they're almost as destructive as
me! One problem with this idea is the scenario of the dog destroying the
interior of the car trying to get to the thief that's outside stealing
the wheels!  At a local business where I work, there's one patron of a
neighborring tavern that likes to park his monster-long Dodge van in our
lot, and blocks one of the approaches to our store.  He ~always~ does
it, and we've often contemplated more affective ways of making him stop.
Verbal requests did not work, so we got to thinking.  He ~always~ left
his dog in the van, so that eliminated much of our thoughts of moving it
ourselves.  (I deliver pizzas there, so sometimes it's a large
inconvenience being parked in...)  We came up with the plan of spiking a
couple chunks of pizza with Ex-lax, and tossing it in the window.  Our
imagination could vividly see what fun that would be.  However we never
tried it, and he still leaves his van there for hours on end.  I got
really mad about it a few times, and ended up driving on the sidewalk to
get around him because there was a tractor/trailer blocking the other
approach.  He was just getting in his van at the time, and I may have
spun a little gravel in his direction.  Oops. Another delivery driver
who was returning commented on my ability to drive my car sideways down
the street, and I just grinned...  In a later reference to that event,
my boss was asking about the whole thing.  I told her that it was
nothing compared to the amount of gravel that would be flying as I drag
that big piece ** **** across the railroad tracks!  She said to be
careful, 'cuz the store doesn't have insurance for that sort of thing.
I looked her right in the face and said "I do".  I managed to keep a
straight face thru it all, but I sure thought it was funny, even though
I was really disliking this guy...  Anyway, he still parks there every
day, and we never did do anything to the van...    Yet!   :)_  Enuf for
now...

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:33:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

>Don't forget that a vandal who has just been shocked might just throw a
>rock thru the windshield.

Not to mention any local Law Enforcement Officials who get a big
surprise when they lean over to stick a parking ticket under your
wiper...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:51:01 -0400
Subject: Re: *NON Olds* humor - (uncensored)

>these were the worst jokes i have ever heard in my life.  you guys
>all need to get a life,

     < < < S N I P > > >

Well, sorry James.  Like everyone knows, you can't please everyone.
I've gotten a good supply of personal replies saying the post was the
funniest they've read in months, so all I can say is I tried.  Now if
this was the ~worst~ joke you've ever heard, yet so many found it
hilarious, then I'd ~really~ love to hear some of your better ones.  If
good ones are way at the bottom of the list, then the top 10 must be
just outstanding.

With my three jobs ~and~ school, I'd be the first to admit that I need a
life.  My computer is living proof of that.  As for the latter
reference? Well, that's always a bonus, too!  Oh, and for my English
lesson of the day, written correspondence is usually taken much more
seriously when at least a few of the letters get capitalized.  At the
very least, personal references to yourself, (ie. "I") should be upper
case.  Near the lowermost corners of your keyboard you should find a
shift key.  You might try getting it to work someday.  There are two of
them, so chances are you can make one work, anyway!  Enough lecturing,
this is all tongue-in-cheek here, so I hope it doesn't set you off.
With finals week so near, that's always a concern... Later :)

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:02:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

 Thats why I think the best deterrent is to wire the car for a little
>jolt. If they can't get near enough to the car to steal anything, then
they >won't be able to take out their frustrations on it either.


A few years back, a Great Falls (110 miles from me) dealership caught
some kids breaking into his cars on the lot.  He caught one of the kids
and the rest got away.  He grabbed the kid by the arm and took him
inside till the cops showed up.  When the kids parents sued, his lawyer
advised giving them whatever they want, 'cuz they could sink his entire
business.  What a ~fair~ world we live in!  That's one of the reasons I
hope I never catch someone damaging my cars, cuz I know I'd end up in
jail over the situation.  Chances are I wouldn't even be allowed to
attend the thief's funeral, either... :)

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:12:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

>>Don't forget that a vandal who has just been shocked might just throw
a >>rock thru the windshield. > >Not to mention any local Law
Enforcement Officials who get a big surprise >when they lean over to
stick a parking ticket under your wiper...

Maybe if you drove a stake in the ground not far from your car an tied a
huge dog chain to it.  Then run the chain under you car and leave a
light on so any potential vandals could see it.  A dog dish and
well-worn chew toy lying nearby would be a nice touch.  :)

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:05:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Heat riser plugs

Thanks for the warning however before installing the heads I spot welded
the bloks into place, I don't think that they are going to come out. I
will report on my findings whenb I decide to remove the heads

Fernando


R Mullen wrote:
>
> Fernando wrote:
> >The only thing I did was I block off the heat riser with those cast
alumiunun > block you >can get from mondello, they have to be ground to
fit though, > big job.. > > All, > I used those plugs as well in my
car.  After a month or two, an > annoying/worrisome rattle developed in
the motor.  It wouldn't rattle > upon accelerating the engine, just when
the engine was decelerating.  As > it turns out, those plugs, which I
had to install with a hammer, had > come loose.  I filled the passages
with Mondello's ZA-12 alloy.  Much > better!  So if you ever hear a
rattle, Fernando, keep this story in > mind. > Scott Mullen > '70 442

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:09:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

I've always found that moving way out in the mountains, 15 miles from
the nearest semblance of civilization, on top of a BIG hill with an
imposing driveway, and an even more imposing brown '72 Mercury Marquis
Brougham parked at the bottom, with your closest neighbor being a
gearhead with a 60-something Nova with a 'Vette 327, always helps solve
the vandalism situation in the U.S. :)

Clayton (I keep my car unlocked) Pierce
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Andrew C. Green wrote:

> >Don't forget that a vandal who has just been shocked might just throw
a > >rock thru the windshield. > > Not to mention any local Law
Enforcement Officials who get a big surprise > when they lean over to
stick a parking ticket under your wiper... > > Andrew C. Green
(312) 853-8331 > Datalogics, Inc. > 101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800
Internet: acg@dlogics.com > Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312)
853-8282 > > >

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:02:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Ways to keep vandals off your car

>Thats why I think the best deterrent is to wire the car for a little
jolt. If >they can't get near enough to the car to steal anything, then
they won't be >able to take out their frustrations on it either.

How do you do that?  Does the jolt go through the paint?  Does it hurt
the paint at all?

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:04:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: TH350 > TH400 swap

>and besides,
>the Eclipse is front wheel drive...  ;)
>               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>          You mean the Toro-heads haven't jumped all over this one
>          yet?  I'm disappointed.

Nope.  I'm thinking about dropping a Toro 425 in there anyway...
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: "Jason Hairston" <jth442@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:15:22 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality and Rust

My 77 was garage kept from new until 1991.  It had no rust during this
time.  It has sat out 50% of the time at night the last 5 years.  And
there is minor rust in several places and it is just getting worse.
Soon, I will need to do bodywork and paintjob. Moral:  Just keep your
car in the garage.  ( Of course, I live in Houston, TX)


Jason Hairston
77 442

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:25:42 -0400
Subject: CCR Holiday Party - CORRECTION IT'S 12/14/96 !!!

MAJOR GOOF UP ON MY PART.  I MIXED UP ANOTHER PARTY W/ THE CCR PARTY !!!
THE CCR HOLIDAY PARTY IS.....12/14/96
sorry.

All Members of the Capitol City Rockets Chapter of OCA.

Don't forget that the CCR Holiday party is this Saturday, December 14 @
Dan DeVito's house. For the address & directions, check the Nov. issue
of Rocket Review.  If you haven't gotten it yet, drop me a line for the
address & phone number for Dan's

If your in the MD, VA, Wash DC area and thinking about joining CCR, drop
me a line so we know your coming.  CCR is a great club in the Wash DC
metro area (Remember I'm starting a club up in MD)

 ---
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | |  President - Capitol City Rockets until 12/31/96
 --   76062.3042@compuserve.com

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:25:40 -0400
Subject: MD Olds Club Meeting 12/7

I promise, last posting of this message.  Just trying to get the word
out.

The "second" meeting of the Oldsmobile Centennial Club will be on
Saturday December 7 down near BWI airport in Hanover, MD. The first
meeting had about 9 people show up and there are around 40 people
currently interested.  We will be discussing bylaws and maybe the club's
first event in the spring.  Also, Ernie Swanson, owner of Glen Burnie
Oldsmobile will bee attending Anyone interested in joining, or know of
someone who might be interested, dropme some e-mail.  I have directions
to the meeting.

 ---
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | |  76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:34:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: TH350 > TH400 swap

>Besides, I went to a junkyard where I discovered an
>extremely rare 360 degree V8.  All the pistons in one cylinder!   ;)

I don't think that's a 360 degree V8...I believe it should be called
either an inline 8, or a radial 8.  Can't really say unless you know how
many crankshafts it has.  Should have four or eight, maybe you could go
back and check??  Of course, it is a rare engine, you know.  They don't
have many applications for it in the Real World.

If you believe it is a 360 degree V8, you have been brainwashed by a
LIE! YOU CAN"T HANDLE THE TRUTH!!

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Blair Rendell <brendell@pi.pro.ec>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:57:45 -0400
Subject: Disc brake VC

HI!
  Has anybody done a disc brake conversion on a 69 or so Vista Cruiser?
What late model disc brake setup can I transfer? I guess the spindles
would have to be changed? Would an F-body setup work? Or would an 80's
Caprice be easier?
  Also, if I put 15" wheels on my VC, would I have tire/fender clearance
problems? Any size restriction on tire height that I should be aware of?

 Tanks!  Blair (Quito, Ecuador) 1971 442 W30 Convert. (in Canada)

------------------------------

From: kelleyll@enter.net
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 15:02:11 -0400
Subject: engine detailing help!

Tom Lesniak here requesting help on detailing an engine compartment
of a '65 Cutlass F-85 2-dr coupe with a 330ci 4 barrel hi-compression
engine.
Still need help  for painting the following items:
Fuel pump, steering shaft, firewall, inner fenders, hood underside,
radiator and support, alternator and PS brackets, PS pump, horns. .
Thanks to Lloyd Culp for some help.
Send help now before my daughter kicks me out of her computer!
Tom Lesniak, Reading, PA

------------------------------

From: Stephen Bobyn <sbobyn@cyberus.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:32:09 -0400
Subject: Re:

At 01:56 AM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Okay, I'll start over...
>I have a 72 Olds 350 2bbl/with TH400. This engine has type F heads
meaning >that it is suitable for unleaded fuel.  What other differences
are there in >this 72 motor to the 69-70 350's that would cause a 60 to
90 horsepower loss >for same engine.

I DONT THINK THERE REALLY IS THAT DIFFERENCE IN HP< ISN'T IT JUST THE
WAY THEY RATED HP STARTING IN '72, ie, gross HP verses net HP...... >
>Where can I put my hands on a hard copy book/manual that illustrates or
explains >cam specs, valve size differences, port alignment etc, etc. >
>Did the engineers retard timing, change to a different 2bbl carb.,
smaller >exhaust or what? > >Someone out there said that 455 parts
will fit the 350 but this is not >entirely true.  I know for a fact that
the intake ports will not align >properly on many manifolds. > >I'm
new to the internet and Olds motors!!!   I have built many Chevy 265-350
>engines, just need a little Olds quirks help. > > > > Stephen Bobyn 9
Cynthia Court Nepean, Ontario K2J 2R9 email sbobyn@cyberus.ca 613
825-6475

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:14:54 -0400
Subject: Cone vs. Clutch type posi.

     I'm currently tossing around the idea of putting a posi in my '84
H/O.
      Since stock 8.5" posi units are rarer than hens teeth (and harder
to
     find than solid-webbed 403's), I think I'll have to go with an
     aftermarket unit.  I talked to my tranny guy and after some
research
     he says he can get an Auburn cone-type unit or an older style
clutch
     type unit.  Does anyone here have any preference, or have you heard

     good or bad on either one?  Comments or any input are welcome.

     Here's the data I currently have to work with:

     - Clutch type is $100 more than the Cone type.
     - Am told that cone type is not rebuildable once they wear out.
     - Am told the clutch type can be rebuilt, but is often "not the
same"
     afterwards.
     - My tranny guy says he has an Auburn cone type in his car, it's
held
     up fine for 5 years.
     - Some drag guys I talked to say they can't get more than 70 runs
or
     so out of an Auburn cone type before it wears out.  On the other
hand,
     these are 11-12 second cars running slicks.  I've got a 15 second
car
     that doesn't visit the strip regularly, if ever.
     - Tranny guy says the new Dodge pickups use the cone type, they're
     holding up fine so far, even with V10's in front of them.
     - Heard rumors that clutch type have slightly more holding power,
but
     not much more.  If you put one tire on ice and the other on
pavement
     and stomp on it, you'll still spin one tire with either limited
slip
     diff.

     Tom, who wishes he could time-warp back to 1984 and hand my car's
     original buyer $300 and tell him to get the posi, Lentz.
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: Vicki Lee Peterson <gs02vlp@panther.Gsu.EDU>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:24:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile

Brad you said to use a chevy posi rear end.  Will the stock drive shaft
match or do you have do get a new one?  Just wondering


JEFF




------------------------------

From: oldsman <oldsman@innercite.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 15:47:45 -0400
Subject: 71 W30 parts

I need a 71 OW trans as original as I can get it.  I'll rebuild it
so condition isn't important as long as it isn't a rust bucket inside.
          oldsman@innersite.com  Russ Jones

------------------------------

From: Vicki Lee Peterson <gs02vlp@panther.Gsu.EDU>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:25:48 -0400
Subject: harmonic balancer

I have a question on harmonic balancers.  If you rebuild you engine with
all new parts new crank and pistion can you use a stock harmonic
balancer?


JEFF

------------------------------

From: Groundz212@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:28:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile

It will match up most of the older model rear ends are the same for for
any GM Abody

------------------------------

From: Terry Scott <tscott@CapAccess.org>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:26:35 -0400
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: sbento@mecn.mass.edu
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:34:09 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality and Rust

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

>
> Up here, we swear by the Rust Check and Krown rustproofing treatments.
 > It's sort of a thick WD-40 type stuff that they spray into every
crevice > and which you have to re-do each year. Well worth the
investment if you > don't want to fall through the floorboards someday. >
 > Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova
Scotia, Canada > > Up here in New England they love to spread salt all
over the roads in the winter time also...I owned a few Ford Pinto's
while I was in school and they seemed to hold up to the winters quite
well. The last Pinto I owned was bought from the original owner and he
treated the car with a 50/50 mixture of Linseed oil and Marvel mystery
oil in all the high prone rust areas and when i put the car together in
'90 (Mustang SVO 2.3 turbo, T-5, and posi rear) the car was totally
rust free except for the minor rust on the suspension parts etc... I
sold the car in Dec or '95 and after 5 hard winters with me the only
rust on the car was in the trunk were the battery was mounted (paint
had chipped near the hold down bracket)..I didn't find out about this
"mystery" oil mix until after I bought the car, and in talking with the
owner he had done this trick to a 77 LTD wagon that is still running
around with 150k plus miles and still no rust on the body (although the
car looks like hell so I am told)...;-)

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0



------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: engine detailing help!

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996 kelleyll@enter.net wrote:
> Tom Lesniak here requesting help on detailing an engine compartment
> of a '65 Cutlass F-85 2-dr coupe with a 330ci 4 barrel hi-compression
> engine.
> Still need help  for painting the following items:

> Fuel pump  -- I think this is engine color (gold)
> steering shaft -- I'd like to know this also
> firewall -- Body color? I know on '68 and up it was semi-black, but I
seem to recall it being body color on the early ones
> inner fenders -- semi-gloss black
> hood underside -- my '68 was semi-black here. Don't know if that's
original
> radiator and support -- the rad is a shiny black, the support
semi-gloss > alternator and PS brackets -- my alternator bracket is
shiny black > PS pump -- would like to know this also, mine is shiny
black now > horns -- mine are shiny black

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:09:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: GM Quality

At 02:30 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>I suspect that this is what is happening with silver paint.  The suns
rays >>hit it at an angle that is different from the other colors,
lifting the paint >>from it's primer.  As I see it, FoMoCo uses acrylic
enamel, GM uses >>acrylic lacquer. > >I think the problem with silver
is more likely the fact that it's not >a pigment like the other colors,
but a powder. Lose the protective >clearcoat and you can scrub the
individual silver particles away a >lot easier than you can rub off the
colored enamel or lacquer of the >other colors. > >Andrew C. Green
(312) 853-8331 >Datalogics, Inc. >101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800
Internet: acg@dlogics.com >Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312)
853-8282 > > How about way back when?

One of the people I did computer work for, bought a new Cadillac.  It
was about a 1975, and was silver.  Within  a year it the paint had
gaping holes in it.  It was repainted and then disposed of.  His next
car was a Lincoln, also silver, and almost an exact repeat.  Some moron
at the Lincoln dealer blamed it on 'acid rain.'

So really the question, how does Mercedes-Benz keep their silver on?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:15:27 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality

At 04:11 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>About that silver paint. It was explained to me by one of the top
custom >painters of the time, as an oxidation problem. Something about
the light >colored metallics being very sensitive due to a lack of
pigments in the >paint. Basically a dark color shades the metallic
particles giving them >a longer life. It make sense to me because you
don't see the same >problems with non-metallic paints. > >Dave Wyatt >70
4-4-2 >

I would like to hear the excuses from the guys on the 14th floor?

GM has been painting cars with silver paint since, at least, 1929, and
1929 to 1997 is 69 model years.  If they can't get it right, why offer
that color to the public.  And then again, why does the public buy them,
when they are really so bad?  And they are!

I agree that silver does not do well on an make, save M-B, and am really
confused by it.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:27:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

At 05:33 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>Don't forget that a vandal who has just been shocked might just throw
a >>rock thru the windshield. > >Not to mention any local Law
Enforcement Officials who get a big surprise >when they lean over to
stick a parking ticket under your wiper... > >Andrew C. Green
(312) 853-8331 >Datalogics, Inc. >101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800
Internet: acg@dlogics.com >Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312)
853-8282 >

They should read my book, "How to Win Friends and Influence People."

Dale Carnegie

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:43:09 -0400
Subject: Re[3]: GM Quality

> So really the question, how does Mercedes-Benz keep their silver on?

Since we are dealing with the mid-70's, the silver paint on the GM and
Ford offerings was of the one step variety.  MB was using a 2 stage
paint then.  Basecoat/clearcoat paints tend to retain their shine
longer, however, the clearcoat starts to peel on upwards facing
surfaces, leading to rapid deterioration of the finish.  Lacquer paints
tend to be more resilient.  I was removing some tree sap (Austrian Pine)
on my neighbour's (silver) '96 E320.  It seems 48 hours was enough for
the sap to dissolve a crater in the clearcoat.  I've let sap sit on 1988
GM lacquer for almost a year, and it subsequently came off (with
acetone!) without a trace.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:54:49 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 350 was: Re:

In a message dated 96-12-03 12:39:09 EST, you write:

<< There has been some disagreement about whether E or F heads are
suitable
 for unleaded (eg. have induction hardened seats).  What is your source
of
 info about the F heads, and is there anything else you can tell us
about
 determining whether a head is suitable for unleaded.
  >>
Heads with the small "a" designation are harden seat heads.
such as Ca,Da,Ga and also Ka and J heads.  The J is the exception
due to being a smog head from 73-76.

W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:59:17 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality and Rust

At 06:15 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>My 77 was garage kept from new until 1991.  It had no rust during this
>time.  It has sat out 50% of the time at night the last 5 years.  And
there >is minor rust in several places and it is just getting worse.
Soon, I will >need to do bodywork and paintjob. >Moral:  Just keep your
car in the garage.  ( Of course, I live in Houston, >TX) > > >Jason
Hairston >77 442 > > >

I heard that if you move a few miles down the road to Galviston even a
garage doesn't help.  Ok, so try Texas City.  If you move to Texas City
however, go far away on the days they unload fertilizer ships; oh, yes,
and if Texas City Refining is going to have another fire be far away.  I
heard that one of their 'light ends' tanks took off like a rocket and
came down nearly 100 miles away.

The Wiz

P.S. I read that Houston is sinking because of all the water that is
pumped out of the ground!  Any truth to that?

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:00:34 -0400
Subject: Re: MD Olds Club Meeting 12/7

At 06:25 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I promise, last posting of this message.  Just trying to get the word
out. > >The "second" meeting of the Oldsmobile Centennial Club will be
on Saturday >December 7 down near BWI airport in Hanover, MD. >The
first meeting had about 9 people show up and there are around 40 people
>currently interested.  We will be discussing bylaws and maybe the
club's first >event in the spring.  Also, Ernie Swanson, owner of Glen
Burnie Oldsmobile will >bee attending >Anyone interested in joining, or
know of someone who might be interested, dropme >some e-mail.  I have
directions to the meeting. > > --- >| | |  Brad Nicholson >| | |  1987
442 W-42 >|/|\|  1994 Eighty Eight LSS >| | |
76062.3042@compuserve.com > --- > >

You've picked a good day for a party.  Just remember Pearl Harbor; go
out and get bombed.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:05:39 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality and Rust

At 09:34 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
>>
>> Up here, we swear by the Rust Check and Krown rustproofing
treatments. >> It's sort of a thick WD-40 type stuff that they spray
into every crevice >> and which you have to re-do each year. Well worth
the investment if you >> don't want to fall through the floorboards
someday. >> >> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada >> >> >Up here in New England they love
to spread salt all over the roads in the >winter time also...I owned a
few Ford Pinto's while I was in school and >they seemed to hold up to
the winters quite well. The last Pinto I owned >was bought from the
original owner and he treated the car with a 50/50 >mixture of Linseed
oil and Marvel mystery oil in all the high prone rust >areas and when i
put the car together in '90 (Mustang SVO 2.3 turbo, T-5, >and posi
rear) the car was totally  rust free except for the minor rust >on the
suspension parts etc... I sold the car in Dec or '95 and after >5 hard
winters with me the only rust on the car was in the trunk were the
>battery was mounted (paint had chipped near the hold down bracket)..I
>didn't find out about this "mystery" oil mix until after I bought the
>car, and in talking with the owner he had done this trick to a 77 LTD
>wagon that is still running around with 150k plus miles and still no
rust >on the body (although the car looks like hell so I am told)...;-) >
>Steve >71 Cutlass S 455 >93 Mustang LX 5.0 > >

Do you use boiled or raw linseed oil for this?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:10:27 -0400
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

In a message dated 96-12-03 21:54:51 EST, you write:

<< I have a question on harmonic balancers.  If you rebuild you engine
with
 all new parts new crank and pistion can you use a stock harmonic
balancer?
  >>
You can Jeff, but look at the balance carefully. Check that the rubber
ring isn't dry rotted.  Its a good idea to replace the balance as long
as you are replacing pistons and crank.  It would be a good idea to have
the engine assembly balanced while you are at it.

Hope that helps   BTW  GM still sells the balance for 80.00 new.
W Machines  Mark Prince

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:21:43 -0400
Subject: 72 CS for sale (different car)

A fella here in MI has a 72 Cutlass Supreme forsale with lots of
goodies. Here is the add.   72 CS with 455 with 7000 mile rebuild and
Th400 trans, ps,pb,ac,cutout bumper, dualgate shifter, 4 spoke
steerwheel and P05 ralleys set of five with new tires.  It has 72 442
grilles,3:73 posi rearend,3 inch exhaust but still have factory 2 inch
exhaust. Has Headman headers but still have orig manifolds. This car is
number matching. Yes engine,trans,carb,dist and body numbers all match.
The car has black bucket interior with factory AM/FM stereo radio, HD
cooling.  The body is solid and straight, just needs paint and
assembled.  The car orig color is sunfire yellow.  Also the car has
swaybar and boxed control arms and disc brakes. Bought a house and have
84 H/O. I must sell it, I am asking 3400. OBO.  There is no hood but the
rest of the car is there.  Like I said the body is super clean,   His
name is Kurt and phone number is 810-716-0073..  The car was ordered
with everything a 442 could get but put on a Cutlass Supreme body.  Also
you can e-mail me directly for more info.   Thanks in advance Mark
Prince   W MACHINES@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:30:34 -0400
Subject: Engine won't quit running

Hi gang,

I've gotten the rebuilt 455 into my 1968 442.  The engine runs great,
but won't shut off when the key is turned off.  The engine continues to
run even when the battery is disconnected and only quits when the red
alternator wire is disconnected.  The GEN light glows BRIGHT red when
the key is off and the engine is running.  I can also get the engine to
quit if I disconnect the resister wire to the MSD ignition box.

I've replaced the ignition switch and done some cursory checks on the
wiring, but I don't see anything obviously wrong.  Do any of you have
ANY ideas?


Thanks for any help,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:03:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine won't quit running

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Robert J. Lavey wrote:

> Hi gang,
>
> I've gotten the rebuilt 455 into my 1968 442.  The engine runs great,
but > won't shut off when the key is turned off.  The engine continues
to run even > when the battery is disconnected and only quits when the
red alternator wire > is disconnected.  The GEN light glows BRIGHT red
when the key is off and the > engine is running.  I can also get the
engine to quit if I disconnect the > resister wire to the MSD ignition
box.

    I've had the same problem.  The problem is that the MSD box is
backfeeding somehow into the ignition.   I solved mine by reverting back
 to the old HEI...

    I still haven't got around to fixing the MSD.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 18:35:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Disc brake VC

Blair Rendell wrote:
>
> HI!
>   Has anybody done a disc brake conversion on a 69 or so Vista
Cruiser? What > late model disc brake setup can I transfer? I guess the
spindles would have > to be changed? Would an F-body setup work? Or
would an 80's Caprice be easier? >   Also, if I put 15" wheels on my VC,
would I have tire/fender clearance > problems? Any size restriction on
tire height that I should be aware of? >  Tanks!  Blair (Quito, Ecuador)
1971 442 W30 Convert. (in Canada)

Blair,

'68-72 Cutlass, Skylark, Lemans, or Chevelle disc brakes can be changed
to your car.  I would recommend the '70 & up single piston caliper type
as parts are so easy to get for them.

You will need the spindles, backing plates, calipers, & rotors from the
doner.  New calipers can be bought as can new rotors. You will also need
brake hoses, distribution blocks mounted under the master cylinder, disc
brake master cylinder, & proportioning valve located on the passenger
side cowl down near the floor under the hood.  A new master cylinder
might be a good idea if you do not know the condition of the braking
system.

The job isn't really hard to do, but you will need to split the spindles
from the A arms at the ball joints.  Don't forget to get the heavy cast
cast bracket to which the tie rods attach from the doner car.  Expect to
replace any questionable parts such as pads, worn rotors, rubber hoses,
master cylinders, etc..

 Also expect to get the car aligned once every thing is hooked up &
greased.  This is a good time to replace any worn steering parts as
well.

I don't believe that F body parts interchange nor the Caprice - at least
not enough of them to make it worth while to get only the few that may.
Let the salvage yard know that you want to get every part needed for
your transfer including nuts, bolts, brackets, etc..  Also consider
being there when the donor car is taken apart.  It will help you to know
how it looked originally as well as how it comes apart.

15" wheels won't be any problem to exchange.  Almost anything w/the
proper bolt pattern will work unless you are using the early ('68-68)
brakes.  You will need wheels w/plenty of clearance to put these on yor
car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: DGMCEWEN@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:52:29 -0400
Subject: SCX stuff for free

I have, unfortunatley, sold my SCX. I was going to give the extra stuff
to the new owner, but he under-impressed so much as to his lack of
understanding to special car he was buying, that I'm compelled (sp?) to
give this stuff to a SCX owner who will want it. This "stuff" includes:
A factory service manual; the poster that hung above an SCX in the
showroom, mounted; copies of every road test of the SCX, production
figures by color, a dealer sales brochure that was issued to help them
sell this car, the regular sales brochure for 93, 94, and 95, and
probably a bunch of other crap I'm forgetting. All for free to the 1st
person to E-mail me with your VIN #, and it must be an SCX. If Olds made
them still I would have bought another. 85k miles, very reliable, great
fun, but in the end, too expensive to repair. I.E. $2000.00 for 4 elec
shocks, $1200.00 clutch, both of these SCX specific, and unable to
locate aftermarket. FYI, I wanted to get a V8 again, and RWD, and ended
up with a 97 T-bird for a fair price.  Already scoping the F***
Motorsport catalog for gears, etc.

            Take care all, it's been fun while it lasted. Doug McEwen

P.s. The winner has to pay for shipping!

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:05:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine won't quit running

In a message dated 96-12-03 22:37:22 EST, you write:

<< Hi gang,

 I've gotten the rebuilt 455 into my 1968 442.  The engine runs great,
but
 won't shut off when the key is turned off.  The engine continues to run
even
 when the battery is disconnected and only quits when the red alternator
wire
 is disconnected.  The GEN light glows BRIGHT red when the key is off
and the
 engine is running.  I can also get the engine to quit if I disconnect
the
 resister wire to the MSD ignition box.

 I've replaced the ignition switch and done some cursory checks on the
 wiring, but I don't see anything obviously wrong.  Do any of you have
ANY ideas?


 Thanks for any help,
 Bob >>

Yes sir I can help, You get a small diode that is an one way device.
Msd will run even with the smallest current, it is called back feed.
The diode stops this and the car will shut off when turn off.  If you
need more info   e-mail me W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:12:36 -0400
Subject: Re: SCX stuff for free

At 11:52 PM 12/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I have, unfortunatley, sold my SCX. I was going to give the extra stuff
to [deletion of sorry story of selling an Olds... :( >forgetting. All
for free to the 1st person to E-mail me with your VIN #, and >it must be
an SCX. If Olds made them still I would have bought another. 85k >miles,
very reliable, great fun, but in the end, too expensive to repair. >I.E.
$2000.00 for 4 elec shocks, $1200.00 clutch, both of these SCX specific,

Yikes! That confirms the reasoning behind why I am sticking with an
older Olds (I was upset because Fusick's wanted $25 each for my '69
Toro's shocks! Nice to have some reality check there...)

I am wondering who is going to be able to afford an overhaul, or even a
valve-job, on one of these 32-valve V-8's out there now. I realize it is
just about the only way to get 25-30mpg out of a 250+hp car, but still,
I'd rather pay it out over a longer period of time than being stuck with
an $800 valve-job bill.

I still would have to do a _lot_ of driving to make my 8mpg Toro cost as
much per month as leasing a 25mpg Aurora! I can't imagine how much I
would have to break on it in order to approach the cost of restoring an
Aurora 25 years down the line...

>and unable to locate aftermarket. FYI, I wanted to get a V8 again, and
RWD, >and ended up with a 97 T-bird for a fair price.  Already scoping
the F*** >Motorsport catalog for gears, etc. > >            Take care
all, it's been fun while it lasted. Doug McEwen > >P.s. The winner has
to pay for shipping! > >
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:17:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine won't quit running

At 11:30 PM 12/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi gang,
>
>I've gotten the rebuilt 455 into my 1968 442.  The engine runs great,
but >won't shut off when the key is turned off.  The engine continues to
run even >when the battery is disconnected and only quits when the red
alternator wire >is disconnected.  The GEN light glows BRIGHT red when
the key is off and the >engine is running.  I can also get the engine to
quit if I disconnect the >resister wire to the MSD ignition box. > >I've
replaced the ignition switch and done some cursory checks on the
>wiring, but I don't see anything obviously wrong.  Do any of you have
ANY ideas? > > >Thanks for any help, >Bob
>----------------------------------------------------------------- >
Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net > 13243
W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418 > Boise, ID
83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
>----------------------------------------------------------------- > > >
I've never run into this one, but...  It sounds like the equivalent of
'someone has "hot wired" the ignition.'

Likely conditions:  In the old days, when everything was out in the open
and simple; a hot wire was simply a wire that ran from the + side of the
battery to the + side of the coil.  You have the equivalent of this
condition.  The ignition switch is likely working, as you loose the alt.
connection when you turn it off, probably all of the accessories that
are powered only when the ign. switch is on, go off; too.

You need to track the wiring for this condition.  I don't remember if
'68 was the last year without, or the first year with the lock on the
steering wheel, I think it is the last year without, so it should be
fairly easy.  A '68 comes close to the old fashioned ingition circuitry.

The most interesting of this post is that the idiot light still says
gen!

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:16:13 -0400
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

At 10:10 PM 12/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a question on harmonic balancers.  If you rebuild you engine
with >all new parts new crank and pistion can you use a stock harmonic
balancer?

If you have your reciprocating assembly balanced, they should ask for
the harmonic balancer you'll use to include in the balance. You can use
a stock one as long as the rubber ring is in good shape; they're cheap
enough to replace, though, if you have any doubt.

If you have a groove worn in yours, then you can get a sleeve that
produces a new surface for the front engine seal. I was skeptical when I
first heard about this procedure, but I tried it on the stock-but-worn
balancer on the 403 I rebuilt, and it works like a charm.
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:24:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine won't quit running

At 01:05 AM 12/4/96 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-12-03 22:37:22 EST, you write:
>
><< Hi gang,
>
> I've gotten the rebuilt 455 into my 1968 442.  The engine runs great,
but > won't shut off when the key is turned off.  The engine continues
to run even > when the battery is disconnected and only quits when the
red alternator wire > is disconnected.  The GEN light glows BRIGHT red
when the key is off and the > engine is running.  I can also get the
engine to quit if I disconnect the > resister wire to the MSD ignition
box. > > I've replaced the ignition switch and done some cursory checks
on the > wiring, but I don't see anything obviously wrong.  Do any of
you have ANY >ideas? > > > Thanks for any help, > Bob >> > >Yes sir I
can help, You get a small diode that is an one way device.  Msd >will
run >even with the smallest current, it is called back feed.  The diode
stops this >and the >car will shut off when turn off.  If you need more
info   e-mail me >W MACHINES > > > I missed this one, here MSD has a lot
to do with sewers, and nothing to do with cars.  He is obviously not
using his 1968 distribution system.  Ignore my previous post to this
thread.  For I know nothing about the newer stuff, and do not know about
MDS ignitions at all.

But would like to.  Anyone care to fill this in, I'm an avid reader.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: nathan biggs <nbiggs@mail.vt.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:33:01 -0400
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

I did not put myself on this sever penis breath. Suck on that you faget.
Now fuck off






At 08:40 PM 12/2/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>>please take me off this damn thing my emial is nbiggs@vt.edu.
>> please take me off
>
>Why are people who want to get off the list always nasty about it?  And
>don't any of them know how to read?  It tells how in the info you get
when >you subscribe, if they would only read it!!! > >-- >Dave Paulison
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme >Melbourne, Florida             1993
Mitsubishi Eclipse GS >dpauliso@gate.net > > >

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:38:09 -0400
Subject: Re: SCX stuff for free

I know I dont have a SCX but I Used to have a W-41 Quad 442 and I ran
into the same problems with repairs.  I had 144,000 miles on the car but
it started knocking and the clutch was slipping and the rack was leaking
and the body of the car was starting to rust.  But I loved that car to
death, and was very very sad.  I had tears rolling down my cheek.  I am
an olds freak, and try to collect everything doing with olds including
the box video of the Achieva from OLDSMOBILE.  It was also free.  After
all, I look forward to the Detroit Auto Show every year to look at the
new OLDSMOBILES.

well thanks for hearing my plea,   Heres the vin from my W-41
                                                   1G3NF14A4MM7651531

Thanks again  W MACHINES
w machines@aol.com



------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:41:05 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Quality and Rust

Hey folks ..

All this talk about rust makes me remember those "sacrificial anode"
devices.  It hooked up to your battery, and altered the polarity of the
conductive surfaces of the vehicle so that they wouldn't take up extra
oxygen atoms.

Did anyone every try one of those?  Did it work? Was it a fraud?

It's salty up here ...

Thanks

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: mdbarb@whale.st.usm.edu (Melissa Dawn Barberree)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:49:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 W30 parts

>
> I need a 71 OW trans as original as I can get it.  I'll rebuild it >
so condition isn't important as long as it isn't a rust bucket inside. >
oldsman@innersite.com Russ Jones> >

   Just a stupid question. What does OW stand for?
      Thanks, Luke

      mdbarb@whale.st.usm.edu

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:49:19 -0400
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

At 12:33 AM 12/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I did not put myself on this sever p***s breath. Suck on that you faget
[ed.- I'd bleep that out, if he could curse correctly; I pity the
Virginia Tech composition professors...]. Now >f**k off

All in favor of disallowing any vt.edu accounts (except for Greg Pruett)
signing onto the Olds list, say "Aye!"
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:54:51 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 W30 parts

At 12:49 AM 12/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
>> I need a 71 OW trans as original as I can get it.  I'll rebuild it >
so [snip] >   Just a stupid question. What does OW stand for?

It stands for "_Oh Wow_, you want *that* much for a 25yr old burnt-up
transmission?" ;)

It is actually the factory code for the transmission specific to a W-30
car. These are listed in the factory repair manuals, and used for
identifying parts so that correct replacements can (well, could have
been) ordered.

Hey, why don't you just tell the parts guy at your local Olds dealer
that you'd like to buy a replacement for your "OW" code transmission?
I'd like to see his reaction to such a request, especially when you get
*extremely* indignant that they *don't* have one in stock for you!
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 03:05:11 -0400
Subject: RE: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

- ----------
From: 	nathan biggs[SMTP:nbiggs@mail.vt.edu]
Sent: 	Tuesday, December 03, 1996 11:33 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

>>sever     faget

Jeez Nathan, the word is S E R V E R and "faget" is actually
F A G G O T, but if you looked it up in the dictionary (y'know,
that "Webster's" book you've never bothered to open), you would
find faggot is actually a bundle of sticks.

At 08:40 PM 12/2/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>>please take me off this damn thing my emial is nbiggs@vt.edu.
>> please take me off

And did you ever notice that they really know how to swear even if
they can't spell?  Perhaps there is a lot of money to be made by
publishing a "rude dictionary".  It could have all the swear words
and have a nice, easy to use section for bodily functions.  I can
just see the logo now..."When You Care To Say The Very Worst!"

And I wonder what he meant by "please take me off".  There is a
hidden message there, Nathan.

Wonder what he'll call me?
dj...trying to see some humor in all this.

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 03:09:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine won't quit running

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do not know about MDS ignitions at all.
But would like to.  Anyone care to fill this in, I'm an avid reader.
The Wiz

We have Nathan's e-mail address.  We could all ask him about it.
dj :-)



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------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 03:10:19 -0400
Subject: vt.edu cursing test!  (Was : Looks Like We're Alive)

>All in favor of disallowing any vt.edu accounts (except for Greg
Pruett) >signing onto the Olds list, say "Aye!"

Make 'em take a cursing test, and maybe a few other menial typing tasks,
and if they can figure that part out, we'll let 'em in on a 3 day trial
basis. If they still want to stick around, they'll have to resubscribe
after 3 days!  The purpose of the cursing test would be to make sure the
rest of the list actually has a clue what is being said.  Of course it's
alot more amusing to flame someone who can't even swear right!

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 03:10:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Ways to keep vandals off your car

>
>Maybe if you drove a stake in the ground not far from your car an tied
a >huge dog chain to it.  Then run the chain under you car and leave a
light on >so any potential vandals could see it.  A dog dish and
well-worn chew toy >lying nearby would be a nice touch.  :)

Yeah, like a gnawed-off railroad tie, and a couple bowling balls with
~huge~ teeth marks in 'em!  That ought to make people a bit more
cautious!  A local towing company has some kind of big dog (unsure what
kind, probably a Rott) He uses bowling balls as his chew toys.  Grabs on
to one and jumps up in a pickup bed and starts gnawing away.  I'd sure
hate to be on its bad side!

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 03:19:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine won't quit running

>do not know about MDS ignitions at all.
>But would like to.  Anyone care to fill this in, I'm an avid reader.
>The Wiz
>
>We have Nathan's e-mail address.  We could all ask him about it.
>dj :-)

Yeah, he'd tell us to "tern duh got damm kee off, sit fer branes!"
   :)


      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 03:57:37 -0400
Subject: Trash Can Joys...

Well gang, I finally did it.  I just deleted the majority of all the
Olds posts of the past.  (Ya know, the ones I read and forgot, and the
ones I never got around to reading, etc....)  I saved as many technical
posts as I could, and all the personal replies I kept, but I finally
killed off the rest of the "me too" articles.  Spent the better part of
an hour and freed up 40 Meg on my hard drive!!!  Eudorka sure runs
quicker now!  The hardest part was weeding through what I wanted to keep
the most...  Sure would have been easier to just delete them when I read
them, I'll have to start doing that I guess.  Just thought I'd share
that with y'all, since it's 1 AM, and I don't see any other list
activity right now...  Gotta go do some homework, now, I guess.
Later....

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Dennis W Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 04:19:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine won't quit running

On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, buehner wrote:
>>>I'm an avid reader.  The Wiz

>>We have Nathan's e-mail address.  We could all ask him about it.
>>dj :-)

> Yeah, he'd tell us to "tern duh got damm kee off, sit fer branes!"
>    :)  Charley Buehner

Wow, good job Charley!  You sound like a born in the US Norwegian?
Sounded like a number of my relatives.  "Yah, dat Natan, he shure
iss da berries!

dj

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 04:40:12 -0400
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

At 01:16 AM 12/4/96 -0400, you wrote:
>At 10:10 PM 12/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>I have a question on harmonic balancers.  If you rebuild you engine
with >>all new parts new crank and pistion can you use a stock harmonic
balancer? > >If you have your reciprocating assembly balanced, they
should ask for the >harmonic balancer you'll use to include in the
balance. You can use a stock >one as long as the rubber ring is in good
shape; they're cheap enough to >replace, though, if you have any doubt. >
>If you have a groove worn in yours, then you can get a sleeve that
produces >a new surface for the front engine seal. I was skeptical when
I first heard >about this procedure, but I tried it on the
stock-but-worn balancer on the >403 I rebuilt, and it works like a
charm. >_______________________________________________________ >Dr.
Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu >Theology Dept,
Providence College, Providence, RI 02918 > > Large trucks and trailers
often are equipped with wheel bearings that run in oil.  They require a
much mort substantial seal han does a similar unit where the wheel
bearings are packed with grease.  I only have experience with this type
of wheel arrangement on semi-trailers, but assume they are used
elsewhere.  The seal bearing surfact is a push on thing ring.  It is
forced onto the axle end, and the seal rides on the ring, and does an
excellent job.  The seal ring is pushed on and removable for renewal, in
lieu of a machine shop proceedure, that otherwise might be required.

The proceedure you described to repair the harmonic ballancer sounds
like the same methodology, in a different application.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 04:46:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 W30 parts

At 01:49 AM 12/4/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> I need a 71 OW trans as original as I can get it.  I'll rebuild it >
so >condition isn't important as long as it isn't a rust bucket inside.
> >oldsman@innersite.com Russ Jones> >> > >   Just a stupid question.
What does OW stand for? >      Thanks, Luke > >
mdbarb@whale.st.usm.edu > > I like other-wise myself.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 04:49:18 -0400
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

At 01:49 AM 12/4/96 -0400, you wrote:
>At 12:33 AM 12/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>I did not put myself on this sever p***s breath. Suck on that you
faget >[ed.- I'd bleep that out, if he could curse correctly; I pity the
Virginia >Tech composition professors...]. Now >>f**k off > >All in
favor of disallowing any vt.edu accounts (except for Greg Pruett)
>signing onto the Olds list, say "Aye!"
>_______________________________________________________ >Dr. Robert
Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu >Theology Dept, Providence
College, Providence, RI 02918 > > I think the problem is that someone is
signing up foreigners that do no really belong.  And this server can
push 500 posts a day, which is a damned lot if you must go thru them for
the REAL mail.  Why doesn't someone that knows how to remove him just do
it for them, instead of reposting the same old BS.

Anon.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 04:52:55 -0400
Subject: RE: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

At 03:05 AM 12/4/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>----------
>From: 	nathan biggs[SMTP:nbiggs@mail.vt.edu]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, December 03, 1996 11:33 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again
>
>>>sever     faget
>
>Jeez Nathan, the word is S E R V E R and "faget" is actually
>F A G G O T, but if you looked it up in the dictionary (y'know,
>that "Webster's" book you've never bothered to open), you would
>find faggot is actually a bundle of sticks.
>
>At 08:40 PM 12/2/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>>>please take me off this damn thing my emial is nbiggs@vt.edu.
>>> please take me off
>
>And did you ever notice that they really know how to swear even if
>they can't spell?  Perhaps there is a lot of money to be made by
>publishing a "rude dictionary".  It could have all the swear words
>and have a nice, easy to use section for bodily functions.  I can
>just see the logo now..."When You Care To Say The Very Worst!"
>
>And I wonder what he meant by "please take me off".  There is a
>hidden message there, Nathan.
>
>Wonder what he'll call me?
>dj...trying to see some humor in all this.
>
>
>
I missed another one.  I though he said he was talking thru a severed
penis, as in held his penis breath.  And I think faget has something to
do with homosexual meals.  The fag got home, and was hungery, so the
faget!

The Wiz Wonders

------------------------------

From: rebelxs <rebelxs@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 04:54:32 -0400
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again

Dennis Johnson wrote:
>
> ----------
> From:   nathan biggs[SMTP:nbiggs@mail.vt.edu]
> Sent:   Tuesday, December 03, 1996 11:33 PM
> To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: ADMIN: Looks Like We're Alive Again
>
> >>sever     faget
>
> Jeez Nathan, the word is S E R V E R and "faget" is actually
> F A G G O T, but if you looked it up in the dictionary (y'know,
> that "Webster's" book you've never bothered to open), you would
> find faggot is actually a bundle of sticks.
>
> At 08:40 PM 12/2/96 -0400, you wrote:
> >>>please take me off this damn thing my emial is nbiggs@vt.edu.
> >> please take me off
>
> And did you ever notice that they really know how to swear even if
> they can't spell?  Perhaps there is a lot of money to be made by
> publishing a "rude dictionary".  It could have all the swear words
> and have a nice, easy to use section for bodily functions.  I can
> just see the logo now..."When You Care To Say The Very Worst!"
>
> And I wonder what he meant by "please take me off".  There is a
> hidden message there, Nathan.
>
> Wonder what he'll call me?
> dj...trying to see some humor in all 
this.					
Hey I thought this was the Oldsmobile mailing list????			
Guess not???????  Maybe both of you are butt reaming sperm, burpping
fags?????????
Can you please take me off this useless list.........@@##@#$%%$%%^%**(_
       E-mail address is rebelxs@cadvision.com..........

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #391
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