To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca@INTERNET1
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca@INTERNET1 @ ABTLAB
Date:	11/05/96 11:49:02 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #354


oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 6 November 1996     Volume 01 :
Number 354


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 01:32:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Deep GM Trivia

> Charles Kettering (formerly of NCR) was an all 'round smart guy who
invented
> the electric starter motor and sold 16,000 units to Cadillac.
> cf

Kettering was also the main force behind Oldsmobile's Rocket V-8,
specifically its use of high compression ratios.  Before production,
(before the "Rocket" designation) it was called the Oldsmobile Kettering
Engine.  He died in Dayton, Ohio in 1958.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 01:55:49 -0400
Subject: moisture absorbent wanted

Back a few months ago, somebody mention about a
silica pack that absorbs moisture.  I would like more
info on this such as price and size and opionions
if it works and to what degree.  My intention is to put
one in the engine compartment to protect my aluminum
parts from corroding and pitting.  Any help would be
deeply appreciated.  Thanks in advance

Regards Mark Prince  (W MACHINES)
(2) 1972 442 W-30'S

------------------------------

From: Badger <badger@badger.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 03:03:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Deep GM Trivia AND classified searcher

Graham Stewart wrote:
>
> > Charles Kettering (formerly of NCR) was an all 'round smart guy who
> invented the electric starter motor and sold 16,000 units to Cadillac.
>
> Kettering was also the main force behind Oldsmobile's Rocket V-8,
> specifically its use of high compression ratios.  Before production,
> (before the "Rocket" designation) it was called the Oldsmobile
Kettering > Engine.  He died in Dayton, Ohio in 1958. > > Graham
Stewart > Toronto, Canada > graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

	Indeed (since I may be closest to Dayton I thought I'd chime in),
Kettering is sometimes credited among Ohioans with putting Dayton on the
map (the other leading contenders are Orville and Wilbur Wright, two
Daytonians who...well, I can't remember what they did exactly).

	And, one of Dayton's better-off suburbs is named Kettering. I'm always
willing to brag about Ohio, thank you (we'll take credit for Thomas
Edison, too, but disavow any knowledge of Marge Schott).

	p.s. - The Cincinnati Enquirer's new website has a classified auto
search also - it's just up and running, so I don't know well it works.
If it's like the paper at all, it probably works lousy. It's at

	http://autofinder.gocinci.net

	Chase Clements Jr.
	Cincinnati, OH
	Granny's ex-68 Olds Cutlass 4-door

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 03:32:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 231 rebuild opinions required


I am also wondering why most of the rebuild kit go up to 1983
what changes occured after this year?

     Would this be the year Buick changed from odd-fire to even-fire?

     For those who just went "Hunh?", the original Buick V-6 is derived
     from the aluminum 215 V-8 with two cylinders removed.  The optimum
     bank angle for a V-8, as we all know, is 90 degrees, which is
     inherently balanced (anybody check out the new Taurus SHO with its
     _60_ degree V-8 - it's not nice to fool mother nature).  The
optimum
     bank angle for a V-6 is 60 degrees (witness the old Ford of Europe
     unit in the original Capri), however Buick wanted to be able to
     machine and assemble the V-6 and the V-8 on the same assembly line,
so
     they chose 90 degrees for the 6 as well.  Now obviously, the crank
had
     three throws, spaced 120 degrees apart.  This resulted in unevenly
     spaced firing pulses and a relatively rough running engine.  This
was
     not a problem in the 60s, when this was a base engine in the
     entry-level models.

     In the gas-cruch late 70s, this same V-6 started to find itself in
the
     newly-downsized full size GM cars.  These cars were anything but
entry
     level, and so an imbalanced, rough-running engine was the last
thing
     GM needed.  Sometime around 84-85, Buick redesigned the crank on
the
     V-6 to split the throws and more nearly even out the firing pulses
     (still not ideal, but a lot better).  This is known as the
even-fire
     V-6.  Class dismissed.

     BTW, have you tried Kenne Bell for parts?

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 02:51:38 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Engine courtesy light


Kurt says he's never had a problem... is it just me? After all the
trouble I've had with these things I figured workable ones were like
gold...

     I've never had a problem with the trunk lights in any of my cars (a

     number of 65-72 A-bodies over the years), including ones I've
gotten
     out of junkyards.  On the other hand, I've _never_ had an underhood

     light that worked!  I wonder if this could be due to the fact that
the
     trunk is (theoretically, at least) sealed from the elements, while
the
     underhood light is exposed to all the crud swirled around by the
     engine fan, not to mention the temperature extremes.

     BTW, just to resurrect an old thread, the trunk light on my 70 W-30
(a
     Holiday coupe) is the lever-type, not the mercury switch type.
Prior
     to that discussion on this list, I only thought the lever types
were
     used on convertibles and I had suspected that the one in my 70 had
     been added on at a later date.  The 70 Cutlass Supreme I had owned
     previously had a merc switch type.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 03:09:19 -0400
Subject: Re: rear anti-sway bar question

I'm thinking of getting a rear anti-sway bar for my `72 Vista-Cruiser.
I was wondering if boxed lower control arms were neccesary with the
sway bar. I'm concerned with tearing up the non-boxed control arms.  If
anyone knows of a good car to salvage one from I'd sure like to hear.
I imagine the thickest bar I could find would be best, my car weighs
over 4500 lb with driver before I even put gas in the tank.

     Back in high school I had a 68 VC to which I added a rear sway bar.

     Since, in my ignorant youth, I had no idea boxed control arms even
     existed, (especially since my factory non-boxed already had the
right
     holes) I simply used spacers inside the arms to keep from crushing
     when I tightened the bolts.

     Having since gotten an engineering degree and spent 16 years in the

     aerospace industry, I now know that while my primitive intallation
     worked, the non-boxed arms were much less stiff than the boxed ones

     and thus I lost some of the effectiveness of the rear bar.  The
good
     news is that with the rearward weight bias of the VC (as opposed to
a
     normal 442), even the relatively ineffective rear bar installation
I
     had made the car a much more neutral handler.  Bigger is not always

     better when it comes to anti-sway bars; you really need a balanced
     setup from front to back.  While a number of factors will effect
     cornering ability (weight distribution, polar moment of inertia,
tire
     size, springs, etc), a good rule of thumb is "the stiff end breaks
     away first".  Most American cars are purposely set up to understeer

     (car leaves the track nose first), so I've actually found that a
     larger rear bar than front bar is a more neutral setup.

     One thing to consider is that the diameter of the bar alone does
not
     determine stiffness.  Also important are material properties and
lever
     arm length.  Since virtually all bars are steel, the material
     stiffness will be relatively constant from bar to bar.  The lever
arm
     length, however, can vary on aftermarket bars (I'm pretty sure all
     factory bars have the same lever arm).  A shorter lever arm will
make
     the bar seem stiffer.  An additional element is the stiffness of
the
     rubber parts in the linkage and mounting of the front bar -
     polyurethane bushings will make any given bar "stiffer".

     One other trick for a front bar is to use the front bar off a
second
     generation F-body.  I seem to recall that these will bolt on to a
     64-72 A-body and were available in diameters of at least up to 1
3/8"
     (there may have even been a factory 1 1/2" front bar).  Of course,
you
     will also need the correct frame mounts for this diameter bar.  The

     Trans Ams also used higher durometer (ie, stiffer) rubber bushings.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 22:52:00 -0400
Subject: 350 rebuild

I am about to dive into my winter project of rebuilding the 350 on my
'69.
 I am also replacing nearly the entire suspension.  Has anyone recently
done this?  I am all ears for plan of attack, and tips for what to do
and what not to do.  They say hind sight is 20/20, and if someone has
already done this, I would like to hear of their experience.  I just
video taped the suspension while it is completely intact, for reference
later after it is completely apart.  I do have the Service Manual, and
that should provide some assistance, but I would love to hear from
anyone who has done this, and that is well acquainted with the 350
engine.  I would like to squeeze every last horse out of it, and I plan
on obtaining quite a few performance parts.

"There is a special feel in an Oldsmobile"

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 06:56:44 -0400
Subject: 1963 F-85 Advice

I managed to lose the post from the 16-year-old with the '63 F-85 (which
 made me envious - thinking about what I was doing when I was 16!) but
in the latest Journey With Olds there is a list of Olds Club advisors
and these guys may be able to help you. If you're not an OCA member you
 probably should be with all those Oldsmobiles in your family.
Hopefully they will talk to you even if you're not a member. :)

1961-63 Cutlass:
Ray Billhartz
21750 W. Greenfield Ave.
New Berlin, Wi.
53146

1954-72 Interior & Soft Trim:
Harry Samuel
65 Wismer St.
Pontiac, Mi.
48342
810-335-1900

Hope this helps, and good luck!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:05:29 -0400
Subject: This Day In Olds History....

In 1901, Roy Chapin began a trip that would see him drive an Oldsmobile
from Detroit to New York, quite an accomplishment at the time. The trip
took several days to complete.

Just thought you'd like to know...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:24:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Cleaning the Overflow Bottle

Hello;

My bottles (coolant recovery, winshield washer) keep leaking from time
to time.  The winshield is a minor consern, the coolant recovery can
cause a real problem!  I have replaced them, and sealed them with
silicone.  I wish someone made a better bottle!


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Mon, 4 Nov 1996 BobH592058@aol.com wrote:

> >>>>>>Does anybody have a method for effective cleaning of a coolant
recovery > bottle??  I got one today out of a '71 Buick for my Olds, and
the white > opaque plastic is rather filthy.  Other than cleaning the
actual grime off > of it (which I _think_ I can handle without help), is
there a way to restore > the look (color) of the plastic?  The top of it
is black plastic; can that > be restored as well? > > Thanks! > - -- >
Dave Paulison<<<<<<< > > Dave: > > Try bleach first.  Then try a
_little_ laquer thinner on the outside to see > if it will melt the
plastic.  If that's OK slosh some around the inside.  If > the staining
is really deep nothing will work.  I believe these bottles may > still
be available new from GM, believe it or not.  GM has a lot of stuff >
still. > > Contact Drew Koba at Fountain Olds. 800-456-8701.  He can at
least tell you > if they are available. > > I've had great luck on
black pieces using spray cans of paint.  Pick the > appropriate black
finish (gloss, flat, semi-flat, ultra-flat) and just _fog_ > it lightly
until you get the desired appearance.  We saved the black plastic >
fender liners on the SX.  Seemed the previous owner loved undercoat and
gloss > black paint in the engine compartment _everywhere_.  By the time
I stripped > all the c*ap out they didn't look too good.  Fogging them
with flat black > made them look as good as new. > > On a related note,
Drew Koba tells me that GM has original trunk rubber seals > which he
claims are much better than the repro stuff.  Apparently the GM > stuff
is much more softer and seals better.  It also, of course, costs a lot >
more but may explain why the '67s trunk doesn't seal as well as it
should. > > Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728 > '67 W-30 Modified
'70 SX Convertible > Oviedo, FL > > Handren Associates, Inc. > FDA
Medical Device Regulatory Affairs > Laser/Optical Radiation Safety >
(407)365-6385 > > >

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:37:32 -0400
Subject: Re: State vs You and your property

Hello;
Boy everyone "has something to say" on this post!

I think big brother wants every car to be a good taxpayer!  That is to
say they want the car taged and insured or in the boneyard or crusher.
Those of us who "love cars" realize the need for parts cars.  From Big
brothers point of view, the only good car is a new car.  Anyway what do
you think? and please, please "no flames".


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:

> Chuck Rowe wrote:
> >
> > I don't advocate slovenliness and an individual should have enough
> > pride and responsibility to take reasonable care of his own property
 > > with the idea that he is part of a community, > > Agreed. > > >
BUT the solution to the above mentioned problem is if the community > >
feels strongly enough about the unsightliness of junkers sitting > >
around, they could offer to buy them and haul them away. > > Nice
thought.  And if he refuses to sell? > > The 66 Toro and Mike > > >
-- > Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated >
Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication >      (813)
210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/ > >

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:48:54 -0400
Subject: th350 pan gasket seal problem.

first, when I pulled up to work this morning a guy came over and said
"sometimes, I really miss the sound of dual exhaust", and I replied
"I make sure I hear it everyday!"..

anyhow, I'm having a hell of a hard time getting a good seal on the
tranny pan gasket on my th350.  it just leaks constantly!   I just tried
another gasket last night and it still leaks.  I'm making sure not
to over tighten (using a 1/4" drive ratchet, getting them snug), and
both times I've cleaned both surfaces very well (better than I clean
my dishes).  The first time I used a thin paper  type gasket with a
little permatex gasket sealer between the gasket and the pan.  last
night I used a napa rubber gasket and no permatex at all.  what
gaskets do yall use?  do you use any kind of sealer?  should I be
looking for a cork gasket?

Doug Ahern      doug@cosmic.uga.edu  1964 F-85 Cutlass
http://www.cosmic.uga.edu/doug.html  1969 Dart
Sys Admin, COSMIC, Univ. of Georgia  1974 Satellite ex-cop car

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:28:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Spec Edition Hurst Formula WS6

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
>
>For those of you interested, Hurst is considering producing a special
WS6 >car with a Lingenfelter 400 hp 350.  From what I gathered from the
Car Craft >article, it looks like it would be made like a Firehawk.

I saw this in CC.  The logo's looked kinda funny, a  "H/Pontiac".  I
guess I'm just used to looking at H/O. :-)

With a bunch of other Tuners making tweaked F-bodys, whats
Hurst's chances of selling many of these?  What makes it
different?

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:54:19 -0400
Subject: RE: State vs You and your property

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCAFF.513F6140
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

For clarification, purchase the Ayn Rand Lexicon. All the answers are
there.

- ----------
From: 	Dennis Sytsma[SMTP:dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 05, 1996 8:37 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Cc: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: State vs You and your property

Hello;
Boy everyone "has something to say" on this post!

I think big brother wants every car to be a good taxpayer!  That is to
say they want the car taged and insured or in the boneyard or crusher.
Those of us who "love cars" realize the need for parts cars.  From Big
brothers point of view, the only good car is a new car.  Anyway what do
you think? and please, please "no flames".


Dennis Sytsma
dsytsma@dcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us


On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:

> Chuck Rowe wrote:
> >
> > I don't advocate slovenliness and an individual should have enough
> > pride and responsibility to take reasonable care of his own property
 > > with the idea that he is part of a community, > > Agreed. > > >
BUT the solution to the above mentioned problem is if the community > >
feels strongly enough about the unsightliness of junkers sitting > >
around, they could offer to buy them and haul them away. > > Nice
thought.  And if he refuses to sell? > > The 66 Toro and Mike > > >
-- > Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated >
Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication >      (813)
210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/ > >




- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCAFF.513F6140
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

eJ8+IhUOAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAMAAwAB
BJAG
ADgBAAABAAAADAAAAAMAADADAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAFEAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmd
bgDd
AQ9UAgAAAABvbGRzbW9iaWxlQGNoZWJ1Y3RvLm5zLmNhAFNNVFAAb2xkc21vYmlsZUBjaGVi
dWN0
by5ucy5jYQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAGgAAAG9sZHNtb2JpbGVA
Y2hl
YnVjdG8ubnMuY2EAAAADABUMAQAAAAMA/g8GAAAAHgABMAEAAAAcAAAAJ29sZHNtb2JpbGVA
Y2hl
YnVjdG8ubnMuY2EnAAIBCzABAAAAHwAAAFNNVFA6T0xEU01PQklMRUBDSEVCVUNUTy5OUy5D
QQAA
AwAAOQAAAAALAEA6AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAPaPQEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNyb3Nv
ZnQg
TWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQSAAQAjAAAAUkU6IFN0YXRlIHZzIFlvdSBhbmQgeW91ciBwcm9wZXJ0
eQA/
DAEFgAMADgAAAMwHCwAFAAkANgATAAIANwEBIIADAA4AAADMBwsABQAJADUABgACACkBAQmA
AQAh
AAAAOTNGMzQzQjZFRDM2RDAxMUI1MjUwMEEwMjQwMzM5QTYA5wYBA5AGAOwGAAASAAAACwAj
AAAA
AAADACYA/////wsAKQAAAAAAAwA2AAAAAABAADkAgCZVOSnLuwEeAHAAAQAAACMAAABSRTog
U3Rh
dGUgdnMgWW91IGFuZCB5b3VyIHByb3BlcnR5AAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABu8spOVW2Q/OUNu0R
0LUl
AKAkAzmmAAAeAB4MAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AHwwBAAAAEQAAAGpiZWF1c29sQGZ0cC5j
b20A
AAAAAwAGEF103t0DAAcQZAQAAB4ACBABAAAAZQAAAEZPUkNMQVJJRklDQVRJT04sUFVSQ0hB
U0VU
SEVBWU5SQU5ETEVYSUNPTkFMTFRIRUFOU1dFUlNBUkVUSEVSRS0tLS0tLS0tLS1GUk9NOkRF
Tk5J
U1NZVFNNQVNNVFA6RFNZVFMAAAAAAgEJEAEAAABmBQAAYgUAAIAJAABMWkZ1slbwQv8ACgEP
AhUC
qAXrAoMAUALyCQIAY2gKwHNldDI3BgAGwwKDMgPFAgBwckJxEeJzdGVtAoMzdwLkBxMCgH0K
gAjP
Cdk78RYPMjU1AoAKgQ2xC2DgbmcxMDMUUAsKFFGlC/JjAEAgRgWxYwtgQQaBaWNhdGkCICwc
IHAI
cBFxEbAgdGgpHJBBeQOgUgBwZCBYTGV4G5ACIC4UsGz3AyAcsgBxdwSQBCAKwByTDRYQLgqF
Cots
aTE4gjAC0WktMTQ0DfDnDNAhkwtZMTYKoANgE9D6YwVALSO3CociawwwIzY6RgNhOiS+IzYM
giBE
RwnwAwAGQXl0cwDAW4BTTVRQOmRzKPPcQGQasAnSEcAuEbAY4CULgC4g8GIuGOAudfxzXSRf
JW0G
YAIwJp8nq0JUClBzZGF5HABOFG92E+BiBJAgMDUBHAAxOTk2IDg6NDM3FLBNK98lbVRvXy4f
J6sG
8CmgBGBiAxBlIkARcGVidSOAby6dAIAuG6AyHyVtQ2M0Px81TzZfN284fy2xdWJqpyNxOc8n
q1Jl
P6BTAZDpE9AgdgQgWQhgHoEdYC55CGEcEANgcASQdHlzH78gwzM2IjcaRSM2SBJlHiBvOwqF
Qm95
NCBlMKByQtAqgCAiWRxhIHMDcBHAaAuAZ+0coG9IgDBAIjuQA6BI0akEIHBvE8AhQ6xJSdLY
bmsg
PABJEGIjQR9h/CB3AHApAEekGyAKwUkxYzDQHoAgZ28EcBygYcp4CrB5BJAhIC/gEYD/BUAo
sUkx
CoVJYRyiR5BMonMco01jYWcJgEKDC4BzfwhwUdEFsQuAHKMG4CqAef8LEVKyBQAroB9hHfAg
Fk8g
40pAHJBvZiAroEyQVUDvSDAVoDCgTVJzSZAWEAdA/Gl6HJQqgFHRAhBDAQrA/0zRVpJUkSZS
R2BL
8QqFTCWvShILgAVAVZF2CJB3HAD7HLICIGxHkE4jTWIosU4AjyqAB+BNYVSRQW55TKC7ULFP
MmRP
t0LRS3Q/QoO/C1BXABGwHAFgA0gwbklA+xjhB4EiH60KhSh7CoUpr1cqv2GvCrJPA6BNG+I0
xzBy
MUMcAE1paxyQJlCrCYAGcWNLwHcjQjpDrPo+OZBoPJBLwAgAHsBpzJ9rEGsQbElLYF5gbicF
QLBh
ZHZvG6EckHNWQn9b4AuAB5Ae8R1RA5ELgGRyaVswZHUHQEiAVUB1PTuwIBGAVmEJ8AhgZ2i/
bOoT
UHBAHnIdYBYQc0ow+wCBPAFpQ4BJIgGQaQFW8f1IkG4BoDwgTVJVc0nya6D/A6BDJmzqA/Ac
sByj
cqFOAP8csE9Bd+JKEVhRVYJOAAWg+G1tdQMAQ4AcAGqnaqcaQQnCZB+mbNtCVVT/HKNIkApA
G8J0
Ax5iBuBWYf8HgAIwG9FR0SMxdQFZQCixrwaQURR5xmzqZgngbEhx/nQDYBkQW/FxZX6xfeAc
o7d5
8ACQcaB0bxVVkWp58P9pAB7hAJACQEjybEkKwAhgfx1QW3NNQXDDVZCCIE2Edf9QY1lAHUIR
gHDQ
iNVd0Xvv/WsQThuQHJJxgmUwXYJSIXt1oXRyZiugB5FJMkaxP/eKb08RHJA2MYA0EANgQoP/
aOKO
H2qYI7BqmGjgEXFGsI8H8B3waTccAENFT08ALZR3RXAQdMEzHABJbmsFoUowckHhZGqnlHNU
92FA
CrAcAEYVoXBATgCUePZEG7BOAFSWIACAC2B98x4mOZB5xBuklnwoODEQMykgMhkwLTg2HDQ5
lHlP
AIRwdHA6uC8vd53gPQBDUHE9ANkDcC9+CYCVQy+RD2INX0OvRL9FzAqFFTEApPAAAAMAEBAA
AAAA
AwAREAIAAABAAAcwQECYDSnLuwFAAAgwQECYDSnLuwEeAD0AAQAAAAUAAABSRTogAAAAACgv

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCAFF.513F6140--

------------------------------

From: "Delk, Mitch S" <msdelk@ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:59:50 -0400
Subject: RE: '70-72 Cutlass Fenders

Hi Craig;

Yeah; Let me know what he wants for the fender. Where do you live? Would
I have to come get it?, Or would you be willing to take it off and ship
it? I could use the chrome wheel molding for the same fender, as well as
the rear one on the same side. (drivers) Mine is a '71 Holiday Coupe.

Mitch Delk
Huntsville Alabama
>----------
>From: 	kissrulz@gnn.com[SMTP:kissrulz@gnn.com]
>Sent: 	Monday, November 04, 1996 12:02 PM
>To: 	Delk, Mitch S; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	RE: '70-72 Cutlass Fenders
>
>Hi,
>  Like I mentioned before on this page.  There is a '72 Cutlass
>with god fenders (especially the driver's side, 3 minutes away from
>my house.  I'm still taking requests.
>
>Craig D.
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:24:54 -0400
Subject: Re: th350 pan gasket seal problem.

> anyhow, I'm having a hell of a hard time getting a good seal on the
> tranny pan gasket on my th350.  it just leaks constantly!   I just
tried

The best gaskets seem to be those black material ones, although I've had
success with just plain cork gaskets without any sealer.  Is the pan
damaged in any way?  I'm willing to bet there's a transmission front
seal leak.  The forward motion of the car causes the oil to spread
backwards, and often around the perimeter of the gasket area.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:44:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

> FWIW, my Caddy has the same feature: i.e., the under-hood curtsy :)
light > only works when the hood is up *and* the running or headlights
are on. > And my '72, '77 and '88 Caddys were the same as well... > > I
wonder if this was a BOP/C feature (as opposed to the "other" division)?

Tim, this really sounds odd!  None of my '77s and '80s even have
underhood lights!  The hood light on my '88 Brougham, like the one you
had, comes on anytime the hood is up.  My '77 Olds friend always used to
kid me about how he had a hood light and my cars didn't....  I told him
that Cadillacs aren't supposed to break down! <g>

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:48:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Dangerous new news virus!!!!! (SLIPPERY BULL SHIT)

At 03:52 AM 11/4/96 -0400, Esko Ilola wrote:
>All these virus messages.
>In Finland we say  "HEVOSEN PASKAA"
>Strict translation "HORSES SHIT"
>Free translation   "BULL SHIT"
>
>You can't damage your computer just by reading these "virus" messages.
>If they have an attached file, you MUST run it to cause the promised
>damage.
>

If you have your news or mail reader set to auto-decode
attachments, and auto-run them (neither setting is very bright to have
on), then someone could theoretically do this.  In practice, there is no
reported wide-spread case of this happening.  If you are running
McCaffee (we are all running McCaffee, right?) and have it set to scan
any executable, it would catch this kind of virus if you did have the
stupid settings on above, and someone did do what was described in the
virus alert.

Maybe we could have a contest to define what an "nth complexity
binary loop" is.....Oh yea, "HEVOSEN PASKAA" (Thanks Esko!)

Todd Hall
Cleveland, OH
1972 4-4-2




------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:58:36 -0400
Subject: Re: tic-toc-tac

Dan wrote:

> Chris Sparks wrote:
> >
> > What does the tic-toc-tac run for a 68 442 (non W-30)?
> >
> > Any clues?
> >
> > Chris Sparks
> > 68 442
>
> Around $200 for just the tach/clock.  If you want the entire
ralley-pac > option, expect to pay more (275-375).  However, I do
occasionally see > ralley-pacs for $225-250. > > -Dan

Maybe I am confused.  What does the ralley-pacs have that is different
from what I currently have.  My left-most meter has the basic idiot
lights, the center has the speedometer, and the right is basically
empty.  Does the ralley pacs fit into all three?  Please help me here to
understand.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:00:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

> > FWIW, my Caddy has the same feature: i.e., the under-hood curtsy :)
light > > only works when the hood is up *and* the running or headlights
are on. > > And my '72, '77 and '88 Caddys were the same as well... > > >
> I wonder if this was a BOP/C feature (as opposed to the "other"
division)? > > Tim, this really sounds odd!  None of my '77s and '80s
even have underhood > lights!  The hood light on my '88 Brougham, like
the one you had, comes > on anytime the hood is up.  My '77 Olds friend
always used to kid me > about how he had a hood light and my cars
didn't....  I told him that > Cadillacs aren't supposed to break down!
<g>

I just replaced the bulb on the Fleetwood last weekend, and it only
works when the lights are on... I'll have to go to my sister's house to
verify the hood lighting on the old Brougham, but I'm pretty sure it
works the same...

...and yer right: Caddys don't 'break down', they just 'fail to be
motivated'

:):):)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:14:35 -0400
Subject: Re: rear anti-sway bar question

Joe Padavano wrote:

>      Having since gotten an engineering degree and spent 16 years in
the >      aerospace industry, I now know that while my primitive
intallation

You are in aerospace too!  I have been working in this industry since
1983 as a software engineer.  What a small world! :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:46:23 -0400
Subject: Re: the city vs your car

All,

Some interesting and some curious responses to my question "Do community
 standards always take a back seat to individual rights?"

I have a specific reason for soliciting this information.  I expect,
some time next year, to be involved in rewriting community codes.  Your
input may be helpful towards developing reasonable standards so I hope
you excuse me if I press for a little clarification.

Drew Durigan feels that "what you did on your own property was your own
damn business."

Up to what point?  Would it be OK for your neighbors to walk naked on
the front lawn in front of your children?  Could they start a private
zoo?

Badgeman felt that the community could offer to buy junkers and Chris
Sparks thought the city could foot the bill to have his car prettied up.

Nice idea.  How would you finance that?  Raise taxes?

Chuck Rowe says he has two options if he lived next door to a "dump":
tolerate it or move.

Interesting, Chuck.  You'd feel would be OK for your neighbor to force
you to move?  What about to YOUR basic right: "persuit of happiness"?

Graham Stewart, in his discourse on the community, felt that people
should be reasonable and try to sort things out between themselves.

Another wonderful idea.  Too bad it doesn't always work out that way.

Dennis Johnson used "Historic District" codes as an example of loss of
basic rights.

I understand your point; however, it seems a little off the subject.

I agree with all of you that everyone has the basic right to do what
thay want on their own property -- up to the point where it begins
interfere with someone else's rights.

While Chuck may decide to sell his house and move away from the "dump",
he may be suprised to find his propery value has dropped.  It ain't easy
 to sell a house next to a dump (except maybe to one of us loonies).

Does your neighhbor have the absolute right to cause you and your family
 harm of any type.  So I ask again, what is a REASONABLE solution?

Reply privately, if you prefer.

The 66 Toro and Mike (who has almost ALWAYS has one dead car
                      or another sitting in his driveway and
                      and can't even keep his boat at home
                      because it's over the length restriction)


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Who <sage@204.248.93.5>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:56:13 -0400
Subject: Question

I just bought a 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 350 Rocket 2 bbl motor.
Where can i find a replacement 350 Rocket sticker for the air cleaner. I
have been looking all over for one. Any direction would be great.

Thanks

Chris

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 00:46:16 -0400
Subject: Re: tic-toc-tac

Chris Sparks wrote:

> Maybe I am confused.  What does the ralley-pacs have that is different
from > what I currently have.  My left-most meter has the basic idiot
lights, the > center has the speedometer, and the right is basically
empty.  Does the > ralley pacs fit into all three?  Please help me here
to understand. > The left hole get a GAUGE cluster which is fuel, temp
& oil pressure (unfortunately, no amps). The right hole gets the
clock/tach (clock listed first because it is the most legible of the
two). Your speedo stay put.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Jurijew <michael.jurijew@telus.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:57:38 -0400
Subject: Alternator Replacement

How does one tell the amp rating on Delco alternators?  The one in my
'77 Cutlass Supreme (Olds 350 block, 4 bbl) has a cracked housing.  My
plan is to get a replacement from a local boneyard and get a rebuild
kit.  Are the alternators stamped with their factory amp rating, or is
there something in the unit's serial number?  Any advice?

Thanks!

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:05:17 -0400
Subject: (Fwd) Re: 72 Hurst/Olds

- --- Forwarded mail from oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Date: 	Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:17:07 -0400
From: jc <jc@legend.txdirect.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 72 Hurst/Olds
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Blair Rendell wrote:
>
> >Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 18:56:33
> >To: Olds 442s
> >From: Blair Rendell <brendell@pi.pro.ec>
> >Subject: 72 Hurst/Olds
>
>
> I have seen one already in Florida..S/N 3J57UZM213375, (is this a
legit #?) > in good condition..without sunroof or pw and no rally pac.
For 12,500  bit > steep I think..has about 80,000 miles on untouched
engine/trans. > > If anyone has one for sale please let me know.....my
1971 442 W30 > Convertible needs company!!  Thanks!    Blair Rendell >
>Hello, 	I have a '72 Hurst Olds I got about a year ago-sunroof, about
80,000 miles.  I bought it in Tulsa, OK for $6,000.  $12,000 is way too
much-I have seen a few in magazines over the last year for anywhere
between 6 and 10K-even a convertable for 7.5K.  My sunroof does not
work.  The motor will open it but will not close-that was a mess to find
out!  I have a book I got from Year One-you V.N. checks out as close as I
could tell, Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe, 455 code L75 and M40.  The
'ZM' part is probably a '2M' that would have it mad in Lansing, MI.  The
code 'ZM' does not exist.  However I couldn't tell you any more than
that.  If you want I can try and answer and questions you have about the
car in general (it's fun).

Jeff Chesnut
'72 H/O


Jeff - Look under your sunroof, there's a number that corresponds with
the total number of sunroofs made in '72. Also, better have that "W45"
on the VIN plate.

cooler ta cruise,                                _   _
                                                 _| | |
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick \/\/ _| |_| red

             (MCORNEA@pt8228.pto.ford.com)



- ---End of forwarded mail from oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:19:34 -0400
Subject: Re: General request

I think it might be a good idea if we all signed our full names in these
e-mails.  There seems to be quite a few people named Chris and it gets a
little confusing.

Just a suggestion :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:32:32 -0400
Subject: Re: tic-toc-tac

Kurt wrote:
> The left hole get a GAUGE cluster which is fuel, temp & oil pressure
> (unfortunately, no amps).

Ah.  Sort of what I had in my 77 Olds Cutlass.  This is a nice one,
especially since I like to eye my radiator temperature/oil pressure.
Weird I know.

> The right hole gets the clock/tach (clock listed first because it is
the > most legible of the two).

This seems to me to be on the ugly side.  A clock would typically have
two hands (maybe a second hand) and the tach would have a needle too.
Too many moving parts!

Is the needle to small on the tach to read??  Its a shame they just
didn't have a tach w/o the clock.

I really don't like the idea of a clock running all of time running down
my battery.  I speak from experience since I also have a 79 Lincoln
Town Car with a clock.  I acknowledge the following:

    1) It is a dog (2 barrel - 400)
    2) a boat (20 feet long)
    3) ugly (big boat);
    4) a F**d

I bought it for $500.00 as a spare, so sue me.

I don't use the car often and that little stinking clock motor keeps
running (ironically it stopped clicking over) running down my battery.
I tried to disengage it from behind but they F**d people must have
rivetted in the body of the clock.  I can't undo the fuse since this
fuse affects other important accessories (Argh!!!).  I hate F**d's.

> Your speedo stay put.

So the Ralley pack consists of two devices.  What would I do with my
idiot device (I don't know what it is called, sorry for the expletive).

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:35:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Alternator Replacement

Mike Jurijew wrote:

> How does one tell the amp rating on Delco alternators?  The one in my
'77 > Cutlass Supreme (Olds 350 block, 4 bbl) has a cracked housing.  My
plan > is to get a replacement from a local boneyard and get a rebuild
kit.  Are > the alternators stamped with their factory amp rating, or
is there > something in the unit's serial number?  Any advice?

Oh my!  I just commissioned my car to the boneyard and it had a
relatively new altenator.  If you are in So. California I can tell you
where to look for it.  Otherwise :-(

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 14:14:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Gold

>Too bad they're getting crushed, as a group we should be very conscious
>of the rare parts we come across in our runs to the yard and pull them
>for one another. Do it as a break even service or make a profit, but
save >the cool old stuff.

I am very conscious of this. Between my dad saving parts off the cars he
has crushed and the ones I started saving since high school we have two
53 foot trailers full of parts. We just have parts everywhere down
there..... - - - - - - - - - - - - Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
(z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu) Sports Administration graduate
student at Kent State University 88 Camaro Iroc-Z/28...see it in the
December issue of Chevy High Performance 80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30.... see it
at http://www.442.com/labay.html

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:44:00 -0400
Subject: Junk in the front yard

>Everything has a price. If the owner is foolish and/or stubborn, well,
it is >his perogative. I really hesitate to interfer with individual
rights. There >has been far too much tampering with those as it is. I
suppose if I lived >next door to someone who maintained their property
like a dump I would have >one of two options: tolerate it or move.

I just bought a house (with --drool,drool-- a 4 car garage) so I read
this item with some interest.  I can't tell you the number of $25 cars
I have owned for only a few days to strip parts off them and then send
them to the crusher.  I never had a garage of my own, so a junker could
not loiter in the driveway for long.  The purpose of zoning or local
"no junk in the yard" ordanances is to level the playing field and
allow home buyers to know what they are getting into before they buy.

 If my neighbor suddenly decided to collect used mobile homes and
started parking them in the yard, I sure as h*ll would not pack up and
move away from my dream garage (oh yeah, the house is nice too).  HE
would be the one moving, to an area that allows his hobby.  I bought
the house because I can tolerate the local laws/taxes/neighbors.  I
deserve protection from unsightly neighbors, just as they deserve
protection from my car hobby.  It just so happens my neighbor likes my
car, so I got lucky.  But, I still minimize the late night comings and
goings as a courtesy.  In return, he keeps an eye on my house, which is
the greatest home security system of all.

In short, you can't have it all.  If you don't have a big garage, and
you live in a zoned/regulated area,  then you can't maintain a junk car
 collection.  Strip down your junkers quickly, and build a shed to keep
the parts.  Someday, when you get the right garage, you'll be able to
indulge in the hobby to a higher degree.  I now begin my 30 year quest
to fill 1750 sq. ft. of garage with cars/parts.  Of course, now that I
have this garage, I have found only one Olds (an overpriced 72 convert.
Cutlass) that would be a good parts/project car.  Kind of makes me miss
that '70 442 parts car  with 4 speed, grilles, Rally-Pac, 12 bolt 3.42
posi that I bought for $25.  The stuff that people throw away!! Scott
Mullen '70 442 (not the $25 one)

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 02:29:06 -0400
Subject: Re: tic-toc-tac

Chris Sparks wrote:
>
> Kurt wrote:
> > The left hole get a GAUGE cluster which is fuel, temp & oil pressure
> > (unfortunately, no amps).
>
> Ah.  Sort of what I had in my 77 Olds Cutlass.  This is a nice one,
especially > since I like to eye my radiator temperature/oil pressure.
Weird I know.

Hey, I look at the gauges alot too!  BTW, you'll need to get the proper
sending units.
Check Year One, Fusick etc. for new, or the salvage yards for used (may
not work).

> > The right hole gets the clock/tach (clock listed first because it is
the > > most legible of the two). > > This seems to me to be on the
ugly side.  A clock would typically have two > hands (maybe a second
hand) and the tach would have a needle too.  Too many > moving parts!

The clock is in the middle, the tach circles it.  Yes, the tach is
essentially worthless.
This was complained about in the reviews of the day.  This is however
better than when
the tach was mounted on the console!  If you want a tach, and are not
concerned
about keeping all original, get a Sun Super Tach II.  Fits the hole
perfectly, but
the bezel will be forward of the panel.  Of course, you still have to be
able to see
around the steering wheel.  Someone recently mentioned seeing a hood
tach on an Olds
(a la GTO/GSX) which I personally could look good...

> So the Ralley pack consists of two devices.  What would I do with my
idiot > device (I don't know what it is called, sorry for the
expletive).

SAVE IT!  If you sell the car you can pop it back in and keep the Rallye
Pak for
your next ride.

Kurt
71 442
> 68 442

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 14:17:00 -0400
Subject: [none]

>I'm thinking of getting a rear anti-sway bar for my `72 Vista-Cruiser.
I >was wondering if boxed lower control arms were neccesary with the
sway bar. >I'm concerned with tearing up the non-boxed control arms.  If
anyone knows >of a good car to salvage one from I'd sure like to hear.
I imagine the >thickest bar I could find would be best, my car weighs
over 4500 lb with >driver before I even put gas in the tank.

>Thanks in advance (again) for any input.

>Greg Pruett
>`72 Vista-Cruiser

There was an article in the March (I think) 1970 issue of Car Life that
detailed the "Wonder Wagon".  This same issue also road tested the '70
W30.
 Anyhow, Olds outfitted a one-off '70 VC with healthy 455, 'glass OAI
W25 hood, sway bars, beefy springs and the like.  It was a good
article, and as I recall, Car Life had the thing running 14.70's at the
local strip.  They also took it to a road course and really amazed the
track crew with its handling.  A friend of mine still has a copy of
that mag.  I'll have him copy the article if you're interested. Scott
Mullen '70 442 P.S. Get the boxed control arms, or box yours on your
own.  No since mounting the bar to a mushy arm.  Also, get the frame
braces (run from front lower control arm mounting bolt to front upper
control arm mounting bolt) that came on '70 442's and W machines.  I'm
not a wagon man, but I assume they would fit.  Frame stiffening never
hurts.

------------------------------

From: Steve Wieczorek <stevew@atsmail.gc.lucent.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:19:44 -0400
Subject: Re: th350 pan gasket seal problem.

Doug:

I developed this problem after I had a stall convertor put in.

I've replaced the cork gasket twice and still have leaks from
the front end of the pan.

I noticed that the first time it leaked that the pan bolts were
probably over torqued-they are supposed to be 12-14 ft-lbs.
Not a lot of torque!

Anyway, someone subsequently pointed out that over torqueing
the pan may have "dimpled" the bolt holes and that is how I came
to decide to replace the pan(about $30 from the Olds parts dept.)

I'm waiting for the next club shop day to get it up on the lift.

Hope this helps.


Stevew@atsmail.lucent.com
'70 Cutlass
'83 98 Regency

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 14:26:00 -0400
Subject: Where's Bill Culp?

Hey, I haven't seen any posts from Bill Culp lately.  Did he take a
vacation from us?

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:59:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Torque-ing

Does anyone have torque-ing information for the intake mainfold gasket
and value covers.  I am trying to locate that darned oil leak and want
to have plenty of amunition to use against my mechanics (two are
involved).

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:57:57 -0400
Subject: Andy Gets Off His Butt

...and has at last mailed folks from the Fuddruckers get-together
the photos of their cars. Special thanks and apologies to Jeff
Easton, whose plaintive email message this morning gave me the
guilt attack necessary to get this done. (Jeff, my email to you
is _still_ bouncing for some reason -- am I the only person who
can't auto-reply to the headers of your email?)

As a bonus to make up for all this delay I've enclosed a diskette to
each person with JPGs of all 19 photos taken at the meet. (I _knew_
I'd find a use for all of these 720K diskettes  :-)  Get back to me
if copies or enlargements are wanted and we'll figure out how to do
that -- I can probably send the relevant negatives if necessary...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:17:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Where's Bill Culp?

jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:
>
> Hey, I haven't seen any posts from Bill Culp lately.  Did he take a
> vacation from us?

Oh, he'll be back.  He's been on the road.  Up in Tenn for a bit.  Last
I heard from him, a couple of weeks ago, he was on his way to Georga --
job related stuff.

Maybe he's trying to set up a toothbrush import business.   ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:21:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Junk in the front yard

R Mullen wrote:
>
> If my neighbor suddenly decided to collect used mobile homes and
> started parking them in the yard, I sure as h*ll would not pack up and
 > move away from my dream garage (oh yeah, the house is nice too).  HE
 > would be the one moving, to an area that allows his hobby.

And the score is: 1 for moving and 1 for staying.

> I deserve protection from unsightly neighbors, just as they deserve
> protection from my car hobby.

A reasonable attitude from a reasonable man.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: OldsHeidi@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 16:32:46 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile  Centennial Update

Hello Everyone,

Oldsmobile's Centennial Celebration scheduled for next Aug. 20-23 is
already drawing a great deal of interest.  Seven Lansing-area hotels are
already sold out.  If you are interested in coming you need to think
about making your reservations.  In order to have a room reserved you
must personally call the Greater Lansing Convention and Visitors Bureau
at 1-800-648-6630.  They will locate a room for you and send a
confirmation of your reservation.  Just a note....

Good Day:-)
Heidi Magyar
Olds Heidi@aol.com
Oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 16:50:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile  Centennial Update

Heidi Magyar wrote:

> Oldsmobile's Centennial Celebration scheduled for next Aug. 20-23 is
already > drawing a great deal of interest.  Seven Lansing-area hotels
are already sold > out.  If you are interested in coming you need to
think about making your > reservations.  In order to have a room
reserved you must personally call the > Greater Lansing Convention and
Visitors Bureau at 1-800-648-6630.  They will > locate a room for you
and send a confirmation of your reservation.  Just a > note....

I am confused.  I thought that this year was the one-hundredth year.  Is
the date for next year?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: nmichelli@acl.nyit.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 16:58:03 -0400
Subject: modificatons

I was wondering if you knew of any book or publication that
contained information about modifications that could be done to a Delta
88 to get better performance and increse acceleration.....

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 16:50:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Junk in the front yard

>> I deserve protection from unsightly neighbors, just as they deserve
>> protection from my car hobby.
>
>A reasonable attitude from a reasonable man.

As a data point, certain suburbs in the Chicago area have experimented
with ordinances prohibiting even the _parking_ of pickup trucks in the
homeowners' driveways. (Yes, functional, normal pickup trucks and other
light commercial stuff like vans with company logos on them.) They have
to be concealed or garaged somehow. So the hypothetical neighbor with
cars up on blocks in front wouldn't stand a chance in those towns.

- -- Andy, who lasted all of one day on the digest list before getting
   back into the real-time listserver fray...

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:11:25 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Torque-ing

     Aluminum or iron intake manifold?  Aluminum is 25 ft-lbs.  I'd have
to
     look up iron.  I'm 99% sure that the valve covers are 15 ft-lbs,
I'm
     not near my books now.  Aren't there a lot of torque specs on
     Bryceman's page (www.442.com)?

     Tom Lentz

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Torque-ing Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    11/5/96 12:48 PM


Does anyone have torque-ing information for the intake mainfold gasket
and value covers.  I am trying to locate that darned oil leak and want
to have plenty of amunition to use against my mechanics (two are
involved).

Chris Sparks


------------------------------

From: Brian Cizas <bscizas@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:27:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile  Centennial Update

>
>I am confused.  I thought that this year was the one-hundredth year.
Is the >date for next year? > >Chris Sparks >

I always thought that 1997 was the 100th year.  My 1987 Ciera is the
90th Anniversary Edition so therefore '97 must be the 100th Anniversary.

Brian Cizas
1963 Olds Cutlass F85
1987 Olds Cutlass Ciera
1981 Olds Delta 88

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:41:59 -0400
Subject: INFO: Olds Resources on the Internet (fwd)

This is a message I posted to several of the rec.autos newsgroups today.
 Hopefully it will gain some new subscribers to the two mailing lists
and some more visitors to the web pages.

Take particular note of the location of the Olds FAQ on the web in HTML
courtesy of David Brown and Todd Hall. It contains the answers to a
number of the questions posted here recently and is well worth a look.
Good job, guys!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada


- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:38:01 -0400
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Newgroups: rec.autos.misc, rec.autos.driving, rec.autos.antique,
    rec.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: (fwd) INFO: Olds Resources on the Internet

Aside from the corporate Oldsmobile web site at www.oldsmobile.com,
there are a variety of information resources available on the Internet.

Oldsmobile Mailing List
This list tends to focus on Oldsmobiles of the Rocket V-8 era (1949-88)
but all Oldsmobile-related discussions are welcomed. One of the most
well-mannered (if we do say so ourselves!) Email lists around, currently
with about 250-300 members. Average message volume is 50 to 100 messages
per day; a digest version is also available which compiles these into
one large daily message.

To subscribe to the list server use your email program to send a message
to:
majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca

In the email message body, leave the subject blank and include only the
words:
subscribe oldsmobile   <-- for the real-time version
or
subscribe oldsmobile-digest   <--- for the digest version

Once you have subscribed , send all of your Olds related questions and
comments to...
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Your email will be distributed to all of the other list subscribers.


Toronado Specific Internet List Server

To subscribe to the Toronado list server use your email program to send
a message to: majordomo@armchair.mb.ca

In the email message body, leave the subject blank and include only the
words:
subscribe toro

Once you have subscribed , send all of your Olds related questions and
comments to:
toro@armchair.mb.ca
Your email will be distributed to all of the other list subscribers.


Bryceman's Oldsmobile Page

An independent page with a wide variety of links and content for
Oldsmobiles of all types. An invaluable resource for Oldsmobile owners!
Sections include technical pages, Owner's Registry with photos,
Olds-related entities, parts sources, Oldsified advertisements and much
more. Well worth a visit!

Visit Bryceman's Oldsmobile Page at:
http://www.442.com


The Toro List Web Site

Still under construction, but promising to offer Toronado owners a
source of information about these unique vehicles:

http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html


The Oldsmobile FAQ:

Compiled by David Brown, a member of the Olds mail list, the Olds FAQ is
an incredibly rich source of both technical and historical information
about Oldsmobiles from 1949 to present. Not to be missed by anyone with
an interest in postwar Oldsmobiles!

The Olds FAQ can be found in HTML format at:
http://www.en.com/users/thall/oldsfaq2.txt

Happy Oldsmo-surfing! :)



- --
Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Brian Cizas <bscizas@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:49:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Junk in the front yard

At 04:50 PM 11/5/96 -0400, you wrote:
>As a data point, certain suburbs in the Chicago area have experimented
>with ordinances prohibiting even the _parking_ of pickup trucks in the
>homeowners' driveways. (Yes, functional, normal pickup trucks and other
>light commercial stuff like vans with company logos on them.) They have
>to be concealed or garaged somehow. So the hypothetical neighbor with
>cars up on blocks in front wouldn't stand a chance in those towns.
>
>-- Andy, who lasted all of one day on the digest list before getting
>   back into the real-time listserver fray...
>

I remember that when we used to live in Oak Lawn, a southwest suburb of
Chicago, there was some sort of law that didn't allow commercial pickups
or vans to be parked on the streets.  If you had one, it had to be in
your driveway or it would have been towed.  I wouldn't at all be
surprised if by now they don't even allow them in the driveways.

Brian Cizas
1963 Olds Cutlass F85
1987 Olds Cutlass Ciera
1981 Olds Delta 88

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:56:29 -0400
Subject: Turkey-Trays

>>>has anyone had any luck salvaging the stock turkey-tray? I recall
someone here reusing theirs, and thought that I might be able to reseal
the intake just using silicone around the water passages and end-seals,
and copper spray gasket around the intake ports (that stuff is
*sticky*!).<<<

I cut the actual _gasket_ from the tray and just lay the tray back in
the valley.  Never had any noise (rattling) nor can I see a reason for
there to be any problems.  Why pay Mondello a bunch of $ for something
you are just throwing away otherwise?  And according to accounts on this
list his requires massaging to make it fit.

I use the after market intake gaskets with no tray, such as Mr. Gasket.
They are soft and have never leaked in my experience

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:56:17 -0400
Subject: Work Lights

>>>>>>>I'd suggest some flourescents for the indirect lighting (paint
the walls and shelves as white as you can), and then some portable
halogen spots (about four 500watt lights, some on stands) for the
particular spot you're working on).<<<<<<


Whew, Bob, I guess it stays pretty cool year round in Rhode Island.

I think 2,000 watts of anything would raise the temps in the ol' garage
a few degrees, which we usually don't want in FL.  Fluorescent proly
makes less heat tho.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:56:33 -0400
Subject: Boring out blocks

>>Subject: Re: Rebuilding

Hi,

I was wondering if it would be worth it, when the time comes, when I
rebuild my engine (400) rebore it out to a 425 or a 455?  Can it be
done?  Just curious.

Chris Sparks
68 442<<<

If you have the block sonic tested, according to Mondello you can safely
bore 0.125". A short stroke 400 can be bored to a 425, a 425 gives a 445
and a 455 gives about a 475-480.  I am getting a '71 Toro engine next
week which I plan to make into a 445 "short" stroke BB Olds.  Of course
that assumes I can talk the FCFO (Family Chief Financial Officer) out of
the expense.  But I got a block now!

The Toro pan, baffles, main bolts and oil pump are up for grabs.  What
are they going for these days?

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:56:25 -0400
Subject: Intake seals and silicone RTV

>Mondello says to dimple the front
>     and rear rails where the rubber strip goes with a center punch for
 >     better sealing.  Has anyone tried this?  Does it apply to small
blocks >     too?

>>>>>>You only do that if you are using silicone to replace the rubber
seals, so that the silicone has something to "grab" onto. Don't do it if
you are just using the rubber seals; they are meant to seal against a
smooth surface. I guess if you do end up dimpling those rails, you have
to stick with silicone there (my personally favored way, btw).

- - -----------
- - - Bob Barry<<<<<<<

Bob I gotta disagree.  Obviously using the RTV _and_ the rubber seals
has worked for you but if that gap between the manifold and block is
close, such as after having the engine deck milled, the heads milled,
the intake side or manifold milled, that space is just too darn small
for both.  The RTV actually acts as a lubricant.

Mondello's recommendation goes way back in history, like over 20 years.
 Before RTV was widely available and cheap.  Dimpling the intake and
block are to give the _seal_ something to catch on to. Which it does
best if dry and unlubricated.  The dimples are not massive, just a, yuh
know, a dimple. :-)  I've never had one squirt out or leak on me yet.

As you prolly know, unhardened (heck, even hardened) RTV is slippery as
goose sh-t in the rain.  :-) (I lived in TX a lot.)

Use no RTV except at the ends of the intake manifold end seals where
they meet the head and dimple the intake and block.  When the gap is too
small from machine work, use RTV alone.

FWIW I actually had to have the ends of an intake machined so much had
been taken off the heads.  Used RTV alone.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:52:31 -0400
Subject: Re: modificatons

At 03:58 PM 11/5/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I was wondering if you knew of any book or publication that
>contained information about modifications that could be done to a Delta
88 to get better performance and increse acceleration.....

The big question is.... What year 88? And what does it have now?

You'd do different things to a '68 Delta with a 455 than you would to an
'85 Delta with a 307 (or an '88 Delta with a 3.8L V-6).
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:00:16 -0400
Subject: Die Cast Cars

I've found another source for anyone interested in getting the
69 H/O and 69 442 die cast models being released shortly.

Grandpa's Attic
Tod Kelly
112 E. Washington St
Goshen, IN 46526
(219) 534-2778

He told me he expects them to be about $25 and that he will ship UPS.
I don't know this guy personally, he was just recommended by a friend.
So if you can't find the cars at the local Toys R Us you might want to
give him a try.

Sorry, No Toro's on the drawing board as far as he knew, but he did say
he had a '63 Starfire 1/43 scale made by Brooklyn.

Todd Hall (thall@en.com)  | Wilson Mill Foods, Inc.
Cleveland, OH             | http://www.catalano.com
72' 442
87' Buick Somerset

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:16:23 -0400
Subject: RE: '70-72 Cutlass Fenders

Mitch,

  If your looking for some nice fenders for a 70-72 cutlass.  Oddings
Junkyard in Rome Ga(a short drive from Huntsville) has a red 72 with
solid fenders left and right for about $125 a side.  These are the best
Ive come across in awhile- no dents and rust free.  If your interested
private e-mail me, Ill give you directions.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
70 Judge
71 442 Convt.

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:34:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

At 11:37 AM 11/4/96 -0400, Chris Sparks wrote:
>Well I just replaced the courtesy light on the inner side of my
>hood.  The only way for the light to come on is with the head
>lights on.  Is this right?????  Seems a bit weird to me.

Another reason for this, other than not having the light come on in the
day time for battery wear reasons, is if the car is up on a jack (in
front) or tire ramps (in front) or parked on an steep incline.  If the
power to the light was always on and the mercury switch was closed then
you could potentially drain the battery even with the hood closed.  I
have seen some older cars without this parking/head light 'must-be-on'
feature light up the whole front of the underbody when parked on a steep
incline.  Note: This is not intentional as the low-riders with the
pink/blue florescent lights on under the body is ;')

Nick DiGiovanni
1970 4-4-2
Port Coquitlam, B.C.

------------------------------

From: George Torch <curiousg@crown.icongrp.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:24:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, George Torch wrote:
> > >  Talk about beating a dead horse.
>
> Nahhhh... it's only my lights that are dead! :)
>
> > Now if I can only find a transmission that still works!
>
> Hey, some guys have problems with lights, others have tranny woes! All
> the same if it's what's driving you nuts at the moment...
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

  Hey, I'll trade you problems :)
 At least I did find a company that sells rebuilt valve bodies, should
have her going again by the weekend!

Here is another point for everyone to ponder.  My glove compartment
light only works when the parking or headlights are on!  Kinda does
away with the safety theory.

     George Torch
 62 Dynamic 88
 66 Corvair Monza
 90 Geo Storm

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:51:03 -0400
Subject: 8-track

Hey folks, I found a guy who's got an AM radio and 8-track player out of
a '69 Cutlass for sale.  Says he doesn't know if it works, but it looks
very nice.  his email address is: gfriberg@tdrss.wsc.nasa.gov

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:51:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Torque-ing

>Does anyone have torque-ing information for the intake mainfold gasket
and >value covers.  I am trying to locate that darned oil leak and want
to have >plenty of amunition to use against my mechanics (two are
involved).

Intake manifold to cylinder head bolts.........35 ft/lbs.
Valve cover bolts..............................7  ft/lbs.

Intake manifold to cylinder head bolts should be cleaned and dipped in
engine oil before tightening.

Hope this helps you...
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:51:09 -0400
Subject: Re: rear anti-sway bar question

>     One other trick for a front bar is to use the front bar off a
second >     generation F-body.  I seem to recall that these will bolt
on to a >     64-72 A-body and were available in diameters of at least
up to 1 3/8" >     (there may have even been a factory 1 1/2" front
bar).

What make/model/years are second gen. F bodies?  Can this retrofit
really be done? - -- Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile
Cutlass Supreme Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GS dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: George Torch <curiousg@crown.icongrp.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:44:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Question

Who wrote:
>
> I just bought a 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 350 Rocket 2 bbl motor.
Where > can i find a replacement 350 Rocket sticker for the air cleaner.
I have been > looking all over for one. Any direction would be great. > >
Thanks > > Chris

 Chris,
  Try OLDSMOBILE U.S.A  They should have exactly what you are looking
for.  The Phone No. is (703) 335-0904.
  I've had good luck with them in the past.

------------------------------

From: Paul Martin <paul@dtm.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:39:16 -0400
Subject: 69 Vistaquestions

        Blair,
        Your item on the Vista caught my attention, there is a
bike shop here in North Vancouver that has a 70 Vista Cruiseer
with Utah plates on it ,its beige with a brown interior. Could
this be the same car in the Video.
        On your frame question,the Cutlass and Chevelle frames
are the same,so the headers should be a good fit. I will check
with a friend who parted a 70 VC to see if he still has the
glass.
        I will let you know more about the 72 H/O later.


Paul Martin

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:18:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Junk in the front yard

- ----------
From: 	Andrew C. Green[SMTP:acg@dlogics.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, November 05, 1996 2:50 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: Junk in the front yard

>> I deserve protection from unsightly neighbors, just as they deserve
>> protection from my car hobby.
>
>A reasonable attitude from a reasonable man.

As a data point, certain suburbs in the Chicago area have experimented
with ordinances prohibiting even the _parking_ of pickup trucks in the
homeowners' driveways. (Yes, functional, normal pickup trucks and other
light commercial stuff like vans with company logos on them.) They have
to be concealed or garaged somehow.

                            That would be Flossmoor, Illinois.
                            dj





So the hypothetical neighbor with
cars up on blocks in front wouldn't stand a chance in those towns.

- -- Andy, who lasted all of one day on the digest list before getting
   back into the real-time listserver fray...

------------------------------

From: willie@MADNET.COM
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:22:56 -0400
Subject: Heya guys!

Okay, well, I am in the process of switching ISP's, and I just sent the
letter Subscribing to the list from my new provider, and it told me that
I need approval? :P  *sigh*  Greg B, I think yer the list coordinator,
right?  If so, please unsubscribe willie@bbs.madnet.com and subscribe
willie@wiztower.com.  :)  Thanks, and I hope to be recieving the list
soon from my NEW provider! :)

- -Shane Baker

'81 Olds Cutlass Supreme (in the process of a customization)
and a buncha Chevy Suburbans.

willie@wiztower.com
This message sent from The Net BBS 608-221-5702.
Telnet address: bbs.madnet.com

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 20:03:16 -0400
Subject: 81 Cutlass Engine Swap

I have an 81 Cutlass with a factory 267 (Chev) v/8.  Eventually
I would like to put a larger engine in the car.

My question is this - if I were to find a 350 or 403 Olds engine, what
would I have to modify to perform the swap?

Specifically, I am concerned about -
	i) wiring changes
  	ii) whether the current transmission could be used
	    without modification

Any comments would be appreciated!

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

81 Supreme Brougham
86 Supreme

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:21:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Torque-ing

I've only done my intake manifold twice but seem to remember there is a
specific sequence for tightening the bolts which goes from the center
of the block to the edges in increments up to 22 ft-lbs per bolt. The
sequence and final reading should be covered in every Chassis Service
Manual Olds has ever done. Valve covers should go to 8 ft-lbs as I
recall.

Can anyone else confirm what my memory says?
Chris Fair

>Does anyone have torque-ing information for the intake mainfold gasket
and >value covers.  I am trying to locate that darned oil leak and want
to have >plenty of amunition to use against my mechanics (two are
involved). > >Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 20:55:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine courtesy light

> Here is another point for everyone to ponder.  My glove compartment
light > only works when the parking or headlights are on!  Kinda does
away with > the safety theory.

Mine too.  I would assume this goes back to the draining of the battery.
I've seen many cars where the glove compartment has been left open...
This is also an annoyance sometimes - you go in the pasenger door at
night
to get something from the glove box and have to reach over to turn on
the
parking lights to see.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:32:39 -0400
Subject: Re: modificatons

>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

When did this happen?

God Bless,

Roger Borlase
httP://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:49:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Boxed or Not Boxed (was: Re: rear anti-sway bar question)

Blaine Sanders wrote:
>what's the difference between boxed lower control arms and
>non-boxed?

Blaine,

The lower control arms are on all cars. The control arm is a stamped
steel product which, if sectioned, would look like a U channel. The
"boxed" channel has two separate welded plates which close the open end
of the "U". This adds lots of strength and also a convenient placement
for the rear sway bar.


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Teleflex E-Mail: TFX!TFXTROYMI!TFXTROYPO!mikeh@tfx.attmail.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 22:24:16 -0400
Subject: Re: 70 Olds 442

In a message dated 96-11-03 21:59:11 EST, you write:

> | ST	70-34487

It's a '70 (70) Oldsmobile (3) 442 Holiday Coupe (4487)

> BF 01124   BDY        |

Body built in Fremont, CA (BF) -- 01124 is the body sequence number

>  | TR	947 B80

Interior trim is White (7) -- 94 must be the codes for vinyl upholstery
and bench, don't know which is which.  B80 is the option code for Chrome
Roof Drip Moldings, standard on 442 coupes.

> 75 75 	   PNT        |

Paint is Matador Red, upper & lower, no vinyl roof (75 75)

>  |	01D

Manufactured the 4th week (D) of January (01)

> 296583		060487	      |

No clue!  Must be a California thing.
	
Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 22:24:28 -0400
Subject: Re: '71 Cutlass Fenders

In a message dated 96-11-04 12:33:32 EST, you write:

> I also need a left front fender. Luckily my right fender is
>  rust free, those are harder to get.<<<
>
>  You should be able to walk down to your local Olds dealer and order
one. >   Hurry, they are probably getting scarcer.

Don't know about this.  I ordered mine when I still worked for an Olds
dealer (before May '95) and the parts manager told me there were only 6
remaining in the country at that time.  I bought one and our bodyshop
bought another one to repair a customers damaged '72 Supreme coupe.  He
tore his fender off on the bumper of an LTD.

Paul

------------------------------

From: DrkSole@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 22:25:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Boxed or Not Boxed (was: Re: rear anti-sway bar question)

In a message dated 96-11-05 20:58:34 EST, you write:

>
>The lower control arms are on all cars. The control arm is a stamped
>steel product which, if sectioned, would look like a U channel. The
>"boxed" channel has two separate welded plates which close the open end
 >of the "U". This adds lots of strength and also a convenient
placement >for the rear sway bar. > >

Well kind of, on 64-72 cars, the sway bolt to the side of the U, and the
plates are just used to strengthen the arm, on 73-87 cars, the sway-bar
bolts to a pair of brackets which, in turn, bolt to the control arms.
The brackest are U-pressing that fit in to the control arms "U". I know
because I just added a Herb Adams 1.5" rear bar to my Supreme and had to
get the a some arms that had the holes to mount the brackets. DrkSole
 73 Cutlass Supreme
 67 Delta 88

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 22:47:51 -0400
Subject: Re: '70-72 Cutlass Fenders

In a message dated 96-11-04 18:17:54 EST, you write:

<< Hi,
   Like I mentioned before on this page.  There is a '72 Cutlass
 with god fenders (especially the driver's side, 3 minutes away from
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^????
 my house.  I'm still taking requests.

 Craig D. >>

God fenders?  Does that mean they are indestructable?  Nice thing they
are on the driver's side, could always use the extra protection.....

<big grin!>

Chris.

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 23:17:15 -0400
Subject: neat link

Hey all you out there in Rocketland; I was just on the 'net searching
for an address for Mike Jones Carburetion (Quadrajets) and found a neat
link... The Automotive List, a list of sources that a guy named Dave
Williams has compiled. Address is
www.rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/vendors/ALL.txt

Enjoy!

BTW, any comments to me, please send direct to
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us I'm not on the newsgroups due to the sheer
volume of info, although both the Olds and Toro groups are excellent
and fascinating... if I subscribed, I'd never do anything else, so
can't afford the temptation!  See ya!

Doug Kitchener

PS FYI, Mike Jones Carburetion, 7602 Talbert Avenye, Huntington Beach CA
92648, 714/848-5500

------------------------------

From: Katana72@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 23:19:51 -0400
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass Engine Swap

350 motor fits fine, but you need to change the springs. Wiring isn't a
major problem, just connect only the things you need. Alternator,
distributor,water temp, oil pressure sensor may need changing, etc. I
did this to an 81 wagon and the only problems I've had is the idiot
lights come on very dimly for temp and gen. The tranny can be used, but
you should get a kit from JEGS or ASAP to activate the lock-up
convertor. Good luck!!!!!


Katana72

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:44:39 -0400
Subject: Moldings

I am still looking for what I believe is called quarter glass chrome for
 my 68 convertible (driver's side).  It is the piece of chrome (and
weatherstriping) that seals the rear quarter window to the window in the
 door.  Is this piece the same for hardtops and convertibles?  Does
anybody have it?

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 23:54:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 Cutlass

>I'm new to the Internet.  And this is my first interaction.  I have a
>1964 F-85 Cutlass, 2 door post sedan.  I haven't been able to find much
 >information about this car, or it's collectable value.  Is there any
one >out there with any information about this particular car?  I've
been to >several car shows in Michigan and I'm yet to see another car
like mine. > > >Nice to see another f-85 fan!

I have a 65 coupe that was my first car at 16.

I have just as many speeding tickes in my scrapbook as the Mopar/Chev
folks from my high school days, so it could'nt have been the slowest car
around.

I'm 33 now, and still have the car, I've been reading stuff from this
group for about a year, and I don't think there is a better place to
find olds info on this planet.

I have garaged car since grad night in '79, and have high hopes of
putting back on the road for 100 year show.

It's not going to be a 100 point show car, but a nice clean car to
drive.

In the years since it has been driven, I feel I have learned how to have
the same amount of fun, but just not get caught so much.

I swear that if you posted a message that you were having trouble
changing an oil filter you would have 20 guy's with the original manual
post the info, and most likely have some guy from Finland offer to come
over on a Saturday and help you do it.

Unfortunatly I do not have any info on the 64, but I'm sure you will get
plenty of help.

Best wishes

Jeff

JEFF & PATTI KOBINSKY

------------------------------

From: Blair Rendell <brendell@pi.pro.ec>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 00:03:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 Vistaquestions

At 06:39 PM 11/5/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>        Blair,
>        Your item on the Vista caught my attention, there is a
>bike shop here in North Vancouver that has a 70 Vista Cruiseer
>with Utah plates on it ,its beige with a brown interior. Could
>this be the same car in the Video.
 Hi Paul: It could be..but it seems to me that the Vista had a black
interior..could be real drk brwn though. And the car was more of a
Yellow. So sounds like a different car, but very coincedental! Maybe its
a "trendy" thing amongst the biking crowd now. Thats what this car will
be...a bikemobile for bikes and friends...Ideal!! Big roofrack and space
for about 9 bodies. >        On your frame question,the Cutlass and
Chevelle frames >are the same,so the headers should be a good fit. I
will check >with a friend who parted a 70 VC to see if he still has the
 >glass. >OK Thanks..thought that the Vista's were the biggest GM
wagon..guess not.
  I will let you know more about the 72 H/O later.
>  Yes, please fill me in a little more on the car as I am
interested..but not ready to buy until into the New year... >I am off
the jungle for 2 weeks tomorrow..so talk to ya when I get back!! >Blair > > >

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 00:14:55 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile USA

Bounced due to subject title... resending from here.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada


- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:01:19 -0400
From:	George Torch <curiousg@crown.icongrp.com>
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Question

Who wrote:
>
> I just bought a 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 350 Rocket 2 bbl motor.
Where > can i find a replacement 350 Rocket sticker for the air cleaner.
I have been > looking all over for one. Any direction would be great. > >
Thanks > > Chris

 Chris,
  Try OLDSMOBILE U.S.A  They should have exactly what you are looking
for.  The Phone No. is (703) 335-0904.
  I've had good luck with them in the past.

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 00:50:47 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: rear anti-sway bar question

>     One other trick for a front bar is to use the front bar off a
second >     generation F-body.  I seem to recall that these will bolt
on to a >     64-72 A-body and were available in diameters of at least
up to 1 3/8" >     (there may have even been a factory 1 1/2" front
bar).

What make/model/years are second gen. F bodies?  Can this retrofit
really be done? - --
     1970-1981 Camarobirds.  Best bets are screaming chicken Trans Ams,
     preferably with WS6 suspension (grab the steering box also if you
ever
     find one - it will also bolt in to your A-body).

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

From: Stephen Lesniak <sxl149@psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 01:19:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Torque-ing

I had the valve covers off my 65 Cutlass(330 cid) over the summer & I
think I remember the spec being 8ft-lbs.  I am not quite sure, though.

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 01:17:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 80 Olds Cutlass Die Cast find

In a message dated 96-11-03 20:12:55 EST, you write:

<< I received a die cast car catalog in the mail today from Surplus
Tractor
 Parts Corp out of North Dakota  >>

Jason, do you have an address and a phone number for this shop.
Their is one other car which is a red and white CRC #3 olds that
looks like the Gatorade and Black Gold cars.
Thanks in advance Mark Prince  W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 01:38:17 -0400
Subject: Silica bags corrosion deterent (help)

In a message dated 96-11-05 01:07:10 EST, you write:

<< Back a couple months ago, somebody mention about a
 silica pack that absorbs moisture.  I would like more
 info on this such as price and size and opionions
 if it works and to what degree.  My intention is to put
 one in the engine compartment to protect my aluminum
 parts from corroding and pitting.  Any help would be
 deeply appreciated.  Thanks in advance

 Regards Mark Prince  (W MACHINES)
 (2) 1972 442 W-30'S
  >>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #354
********************************
 
