To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	09/19/96 11:52:58 AM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #305


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, 19 September 1996    Volume 01 : Number 305


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ROB MALLAND" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:42:23 -0300 
Subject: '54-holiday-88/'62 F-85/'67-88-for sale in Seattle

Hey gang I saw some ads that I thought you might be interested in 
(either for price comparison or just to look at !)

1954 Olds Holiday 88 4 dr. Hdtp. good every day driver-$2250.00
Seattle 206.364.1278

1962 F-85 CONVERT. needs restoration, $900.00
Everett 206.259.2004

1967 Olds Delmont 88 w/425 engine every thing orig. and in good condition, runs
great. $1100.00/o.b.o.
Kent 206.852.9241

1967 Olds 88 455 high compression engine all stock $1000.00/o.b.o.
Kent 206.859.3050

1968 Olds Toronado AT,PS,455 cc eng, Mech sound, make offer...
Kent 206.872.2444

Happy reading,
- -Rob ('73-442)





















.

- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:50:51 -0300
Subject: Re: '64 Lighting Question 

>Does anyone know if the parking lights on the front of a '64 Cutlass are 
>supposed to go out when the headlights are turned on?

Yes, they're supposed to do that.

>I know later models left them on with the headlights...

Starting in 1968, along with side marker lights.

For a while back then you could get a little wiring kit from J.C. Whitney
to modify your pre-'68 car so that the parking lights would stay on. Doubt
they still have it but if we devote some brainpower to this we should be
able to figure it out. (i.e. You want the parking lights to stay on with
the headlights, but you don't want the headlights to come on as soon as
you switch on the parking lights, so a simple jumper wire won't do it.)
There is probably a solution involving diodes and such; wonder if there
is one requiring no electronics...?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:02:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 88/98: She's Running Rough 

>The exhaust comes out 'puffing,' and when I put my hand near the exhaust
>tip, black soot and a faint gas smell are observed. I think it happens all
>the time, a real rough running condition.

Not so much "rough" as rich. Black soot & gas smell = too much gas going
through. Maybe a stuck float in the carb? A rebuild might be a good idea,
and for the moment -- WARNING: I know this sounds stupid but it really
worked for me once -- you could try thwacking the carb once or twice with
a rubber mallet or block of wood. I did this out of desperation one day
and the problem cleared right up; evidently it freed the float until I
could get it apart for a proper rebuild.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:27:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 88/98: She's Running Rough

At 10:02 AM 9/18/96 -0300, Andrew C. Green wrote:

>WARNING: I know this sounds stupid but it really
>worked for me once -- you could try thwacking the carb once or twice with
>a rubber mallet or block of wood.

There's virtually no device, mechanical, electrical, or otherwise,
that can't be repaired with a little impact revitalization.


Dan Gulino


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:29:00 -0300
Subject: Intro

Allow me to introduce myself.  My name is Scott Mullen and I own a '70 442. 
 I have been interested in Oldsmobiles since 1984, when I bought my first 
one ('69 Cutlass).  I recently purchased a home with a 4 car garage, so my 
442 now has a worthy home.  I am new to the internet, so forgive my breach 
of etiquette by not introducing myself earlier.  I look forward to hearing 
from all of you.
Scott Mullen
r_mullen@merck.com

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:36:00 -0300
Subject: Nick Gomez & his rough runner

Nick,
If the items Mr. Culp mentioned check out ok, carefully examine your carb 
needle and seat.  I have seen a tiny grain of dirt imbedded in the rubber 
tip of the needle that prevented seating and caused flooding.  You can buy a 
needle and seat seperately from GM, so if this is the problem, an entire 
rebuild kit is not needed (but not a bad idea).
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 06:50:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Intro

R Mullen wrote:
> 
> Allow me to introduce myself.  My name is Scott Mullen and I own a '70 442.
>  I have been interested in Oldsmobiles since 1984, when I bought my first
> one ('69 Cutlass).  I recently purchased a home with a 4 car garage, so my
> 442 now has a worthy home.  I am new to the internet, so forgive my breach
> of etiquette by not introducing myself earlier.  I look forward to hearing
> from all of you.
> Scott Mullen
> 

Welcome Scott,

You are about 2 years too new to have the best car (mine is a 1968 442), 
but you are close & therefore acceptable.  That is nice having a 4 car 
garage for one Oldsmobile - just right.

Bill Culp
Deatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 05:34:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Def. of Convector (was:Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.) 

     Judging from the name, Convector, my wild guess would be that a heat 
     sink of some sort bolts to that part in the back.  Those older radios 
     weren't the most efficient things and made a lot of heat.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Def. of Convector (was:Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.)
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/17/96 8:35 PM


In a message dated 96-09-17 10:43:00 EDT, you write:
     
No, it's not a typo, the Convector Asm,as it's listed in the assembly manual, 
mounts to behind the glovebox, and hooks into the back of the radio. It's 
also listed as neccesary option for the AM/FM stereo, and AM/FM 8-track 
stereo.  Could it be a power booster of some type?
DrkSole
 73 Cutlass Supreme
     

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:56:00 -0300 
Subject: Re: 12 bolt rear-end

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>

>    The biggest weak spots in Olds rears are the wheel bearings and
>availability of parts.  Although, after having a C-clip snap on me a few
>years back I'm rather sold on the idea of the positive axle retention.
>The 12-bolt Olds under my '71 CS now is holding up just fine - put the
>new "updated" style wheel bearings in it when I got it - for the last 10k
>of hard miles.   (It's a 2.78:1 Posi swap meet special)

How are the new "updated" wheel bearings different?  Whats the
problem with the original ones?

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:04:37 -0300
Subject: Ignition switch for Esko's Ninety Eight 1964

A quick summary:
> Here is the original p/n for the '64 ignition switch: 1116646
> 
> AC-Delco "short numbers" for it: 
> D1431 -> D1438 -> D1446 -> D1455 -> D1457.
>  
> The GM part numbers:
> 1116605 -> 1116608 -> 1116633 -> 1116646 -> 1116654. 
> 
> I suppose any of those would allegedly fit.
>  
> located 2 in the United States... in Texas and Nevada...  
>
> In Texas:
>   Wilkenson Oldsmobile
>   Victoria, TX 
>   (800) 945-9903 
>   (512) 575-6375

I'm in Dallas, TX.  I'll be happy to get the switch from Wilkenson
and ship it off to Esko if he wants it.  I'll hold off on any action
until I hear from him directly.  Esko, if you're still on for this
contact me: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com


- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"

- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:10:36 -0300
Subject: silicone on metal

> Another HUGE tip, don't get silicone on metal, you will pay the devil 
> himself to get it off properly. If you attempt to paint the metal that 
> has trace amounts of silicone, the paint will not stick.

Could we use this to our advantage?  If you don't want to get paint 
on your <blah> put a little armor-all or other silicone on there first.
I'm thinking like if you don't want to get paint on your master cylinder
when you're painting the firewall, put Armor-All on it (mask it off
too) or something like that... 

What do you think?  Bad idea or another cool resto-tip?


- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"

- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:11:49 -0300
Subject: Re: engine hoists & engine weight

>>those *!@#$&%^$$!!! at Greene County Rentals rented me a defective
>>cherry-picker!  As me and a friend were moving the motor, one of the
>>wheels popped off of the sucker, therefore knocking it off balance and
>>sending the entire 350 rocket, TH400 tranny, and engine hoist, tumbling
>>in my direction!
>
>Does it make any difference to the stability of those things if you
>_pull_ or _push_ to move them around? 

If it makes a difference, *get a better hoist*!!!  Sorry, but this
is one place where I don't take ANY chances.  The hoist I had could 
hold my 455 (with a few accessories still attached)coupled to the 
TH 400 no problem.  I even dangled myself from it (an extra ~250lb)
to prove to someone that it wasn't going anywhere.  We could push it,
pull it, lean on it, whatever, with no problems.  Also, it had a
set of "handlebars" that made it fairly obvious where you should
do your pushing/pulling.  Cost (in Dallas) was $20/day (+/- tax).
I can find exact name and address of the place if anyone is interested.


>I need to buy an engine stand and wanted to know which one to buy. 
>What's the ballpark weight of an Old's 350, how bought the 455? 

I'm not sure, but I was using a 1000/1500lb (depending on which
hook point you use -- I used 1000lb) hoist for the fun and games above.  


- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:23:27 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal 

>Could we use this to our advantage?  If you don't want to get paint 
>on your <blah> put a little armor-all or other silicone on there first.
>I'm thinking like if you don't want to get paint on your master cylinder
>when you're painting the firewall, put Armor-All on it (mask it off
>too) or something like that...

For that matter, you could use WD-40. Seem to recall reading somewhere
that it's routinely sprayed on sheet metal stock to prevent it from
rusting over time. 

>What do you think?  Bad idea or another cool resto-tip?

Speaking of which, where _is_ our resto-friend these days anyway?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com (Brett Chaveriat)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:34:13 -0300
Subject: silicone on metal

     Travis,
     
        Interesting idea, but it won't work.  The silicone causes poor 
     adhesion to metal, not lack of adhesion.  
     
        I have heard of another method to 'mask off' areas where you do not 
     want paint to stick.  Put a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the 
     surface that should not get painted.  The paint will just collect on 
     top of the jelly, and you can remove the mess when the paint is dry.  
     I don't know if you want to deal with this mess for something like a 
     master cylinder, but it could work well for trim on a grill you want 
     to paint, for instance.  I originally heard about the idea for 
     painting window sashes on the house.
     
     Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
     brett@actel.com
     72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.
     

______________________________ Forward Header 
__________________________________
Subject: silicone on metal
Author:  tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com at SMTPlink-Actel
Date:    9/18/96 1:10 PM


> Another HUGE tip, don't get silicone on metal, you will pay the devil 
> himself to get it off properly. If you attempt to paint the metal that 
> has trace amounts of silicone, the paint will not stick.
     
Could we use this to our advantage?  If you don't want to get paint 
on your <blah> put a little armor-all or other silicone on there first. 
I'm thinking like if you don't want to get paint on your master cylinder 
when you're painting the firewall, put Armor-All on it (mask it off
too) or something like that... 
     
What do you think?  Bad idea or another cool resto-tip?
     
     
- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
     
- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division 
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation
     
     

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:53:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.

Mark Bethke wrote: 
>    I have a 77 Toro with a 8 track in it. It has what looks like a
seperate
> amp??? It is located behind the dash on the passenger side under the
glove
> box. I think you may need this part to make it work right. I put a
> aftermarket deck in the ashtray that I custom installed. I used the
factory
> wires for the speakers. After I unplugged that unit under the glove box I
> had no sound. So as far as I can tell you need it also.

DrkSole wrote:
> Now, (finally), here's the problem- the 8track I bought
> appears to be in good shape, lights up when turned on, but doesn't emit
any
> sound. It may be that it just doesn't work, but there is a terminal on
the
> back which, according to my assembly manual, should goto a device called
a
> "convector" which I didn't get from the 77. Does anyone know if this
could
> be the problem or what Convector is? Thanks.
> DrkSole

Yes that thing under the dash is the convector.  The 74 service manual I
use clearly illustrates it being bolted behind the lower dash panel,
passengers side.  I have no idea what it does.  It's fairly heavy as I
remember, and is connected to the 8-track by at least 4 wires which looked
hollow.??  Convection = heat, perhaps? Cooling for 8-tracks? probably not. 
It has cooling type fins, however, so it may be some kind of amp.  Anyway I
took my Ninety-Eight's dash apart last year and installed a working Delco
radio, while removing the 8-track and convector.  It you want it I can send
it to you, but it might be easier to go to a wreckers for one.  My parts
catalog says that from 71-76 all full size Oldsmobiles (with tape players)
used the same convector.  Part number 7936742.  Should be the same for your
77 8-track.  Surely someone out there knows what these things do???

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 14:14:09 -0300
Subject: RE: silicone on metal 

I've been told that an easy way to keep paint from sticking is to cover it with
elmer's glue before you spray. when the paint is dry you can then wash the glue
off. 

has anyone ever tried this?


Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/index.html 
cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader, 1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973  
Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X, 1955 Cadillac Seville, 1969  
Cadillac DeVille Convertibles (2), 1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham
1961 Imperial Custom, 1973 Buick Riviera                                     

------------------------------

From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 14:16:41 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's. 

> Anyway I
>took my Ninety-Eight's dash apart last year and installed a working Delco
>radio, while removing the 8-track and convector.  It you want it I can send
>it to you, but it might be easier to go to a wreckers for one.  My parts


so you have an 8 track player you don't want???  is it one of those built into
the radio or and underdash unit. I've been looking all over for an AM/FM 8
track player for my '72 98. if that's what you have and he doesn't want it...I
do!



Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/index.html 
cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader, 1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973  
Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X, 1955 Cadillac Seville, 1969  
Cadillac DeVille Convertibles (2), 1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham
1961 Imperial Custom, 1973 Buick Riviera                                     

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:27:11 -0300
Subject: RE: silicone on metal 

>I've been told that an easy way to keep paint from sticking is to 
>cover it with elmer's glue before you spray. when the paint is dry 
>you can then wash the glue off. 

Couple of thoughts on this:

1) I don't know that Elmer's glue is water-soluble -- at least, not
very. There is an Elmer's School Glue which is supposed to wash off
of (or out of) anything.

2) When the paint is dry, you have somewhat painted over the glue,
which isn't going to let go until some solvent hits it and soaks it
loose. The paint on top would be a problem, IMHO, if you therefore
can't get through it to dissolve the glue with water. Goop such as 
Vaseline, WD-40 or whatever would remain "removable" even with paint 
on top.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:05:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Def. of Convector (was:Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.)

Wireheads,

No, it isn't a typo.  My 64 GM Radio Manual lists in the parts breakdown 
as #7287134, "Convector, DS-46" but gives no futher information.  DS-46, 
on the other hand, crosses to #1221962, "Transistor...".  There is also a 
note that these parts were first used in 64.

So, given the radio/glovebox mounting information, I'd' go along with the 
notion that "Convector" is ancient termonology for a heat sink.

The 66 Toro and Mike
 

- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:12:52 -0300
Subject: Esko!

So guess who called me this morning?

ESKO!

Phone rings about 9:30, so I answer and a voice says "Hello, This is
Esko Ilola from Finland"!   !!!!!!!     :o

!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When he offered help with Sabbs, Volvos, etc, I sent him a post of the
off again, on again fuel injection saga of the 144.  I told him what I
thought the problem was and asked for any opinions.  So he replies he'll
check with his Volvo buddies and get back to me.

This morning he calls so he can send me a fax from a manual!  So I run up
the fax software and he sends me 15-20 pages of a Volvo manual...

(wait for it)

...in Finish!  Good thing it has pictures.  He calls me back and we 
proceed to discuss the problem.  Hell of a nice guy.  Offered to 
translate anything if I need him to.  I guess!

I asked him if he was calling from home and he says no, he's calling from
work -- Finish Telecom.   ;)   Cool.  So we discuss weather, television,
and such.  His wife loves "The Bold and the Beautiful"  -- he hates it.

Best part:  at the end of the conversation, Esko says, "OK, so who can I
call and wake up now?"

I told him to call Andy Green...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:22:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Ignition switch for Esko's Ninety Eight 1964

tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com wrote:

> Esko, if you're still on for this...

Don't be suprised if you don't hear from him right away.  When I spoke to 
him this morning, it was just about quitting time there and I seem to 
remember him saying that he doesn't have Internet access at home.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:41:00 -0300
Subject: Flowmaster Mufflers

Anybody put Flowmaster mufflers on their 68-72 A-body Olds?  A friend of 
mine put the 15 inch long version on his 70 GTO and they sound/perform 
great.  I am worried about putting them on my 70 442 because of clearance 
problems with the stock frame stiffeners that run from the upper to lower 
control arm bolts.  Another problem is that he bought his 4 or 5 years ago 
and can't remember the part no..  Now, Flowmaster makes a whole host of 
sizes/styles, so I don't know which ones to get.  Any help would be 
appreciated.
Scott Mullen
r_mullen@merck.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:49:44 -0300
Subject: Re: New member

Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi wrote:
> 
> They cruised all the cadillacs in that town out. There was 16 pieces of 
> 1964 Coupe de Ville alone. The caddys totalled to around 30. I think 
> this is a lot from such a small town.

Whoa!  Amazing!  That's a lot for any town that size -- anywhere.  Must 
be great fun to go cruising around and watch some of the locals when they 
see that big American iron go by.   :o

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 19:28:06 -0300
Subject: Member Resistry & Contact List (LONG)

All,

Since there's been some discussion of the idea of a member registry
for the Olds list similar to the one for the Toro list and as the guy who
did the Toro one, I thought I'd summarize the whole thing and we can go
on from there:

1) The registry is completely different critter from the MajorDomo list
server both lists are using.  That is, subscribing to the list does
not imply addition to the registry; addition to the registry does not
subscribe you to the list.  So, if there was any concern that you MUST be
in the registry to be subscribed to the list -- that just ain't so.

2) All of the information currently kept on the Toro list is optional
except for a name and email address.  You don't have to provide your
address, phone number, or anything you would rather not be published.

3) Because of the nature of the Internet, the server that hosts the
registry sign-up web form does not have to be the same location that
hosts the registry itself.

4) Because the web form sends registry email to the it's administrator,
the administrator can be anywhere, just as the MajorDomo
administrator can be.

5) The Toro registry size is currently slightly over 800 bytes per
member.  With the Olds list membership of about 250 and assuming a
response of maybe 40%, the registry would be an estimated 80K in size.  
This would be adjustable up or down depending on how much, or how little, 
data you wish to keep.

6) The registry could be kept as a plain text document by the
administrator.  Requests for a copy of the registry would than have to be
emailed to the administrator.

7) The registry could be kept as an HTML document on a server and
accessable on demand.  (This is my preference and how the Toro registry
is handled)  Again, this location can be different from both the web 
form and the administrator.

The Toro list registry is currently an "in progress" project.  I just 
installed the web form this week.  I'm currently working on the software 
to handle the new input data format with the objective of automating it 
as much as possible.

I would be happy to provide the software to anyone who would agree to 
administratte the system and anyone who would agree to provide server 
space.

I yield the floor...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: David Wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:32:09 -0300
Subject: RE: Parking lights and headlights

As I remember, you can make a jump from the dash light connection to the 
parking
light wire at the switch. That is if your switch does not use a multi wire 
plug.
The older cars used individual wires attaching to spades on the switch. At 
some 
point the auto makers went to the mltiple wire plug type connection.

Dave Wyatt 70 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:28:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass Patch panels 

Sorry if I missed a followup on this, but could you post the info to the 
list?  Thanks!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- -----------
Mostly to Craig and Frank,but anyone else who might care. I found a body
shop in CT. that has patch panels for the front fenders,behind the
wheel.Sells for about $40 dollars.He also sell Q-panels for the rear at
about $150 plus $50 S/H each. If you buy 2,the shipping is only $25 each.
Such a deal!!! Send e-mail to my address if you want any more info.

Brad '68 C/S Convt

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:40:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Smog Legal Cams? 

I'm kind of going through how I would pick such a cam, and guessing from 
memory :).  

Probably any cam that isn't billed as race or strip.  As you go up in 
duration, lift, you probably need to make some changes with the carb and 
timing.  Without changing, you probably can go to a cam near what the 
factory's high output motor used.

I think it was said on the list here that a lot of cams for Olds from the 
major manufacturers are nothing more than F*rd, Ch*vy grinds on an Olds 
lobe casting.  Scanning through a catalog I found a number of cams with 
duration and lift figures that matched.

Definetely talk with the manufacturer's technical department!  Although 
they might only know about their Ch*vy grind :(.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- ---------
Here's a good FAQ question in the era of ever tougher smog regs cross country:

What cam grinds will pass smog regs and still provide good power?

cf

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:03:33 -0300
Subject: RE: Parking lights and headlights 

At 01:32 PM 9/18/96 -0300, you wrote:
>As I remember, you can make a jump from the dash light connection 
>to the parking light wire at the switch. That is if your switch 
>does not use a multi wire plug. The older cars used individual 
>wires attaching to spades on the switch. At some point the auto 
>makers went to the multiple wire plug type connection.

Whoops, the mental brain fart of this morning has finally cleared:
A little judicious rewiring of the front parking light circuit is
all you need: You would disconnect its feed coming from the dashboard
light switch and reroute it to draw power from the _taillight_ output
of the switch instead.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:09:11 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

>=20
> Could we use this to our advantage?  If you don't want to get paint
> on your <blah> put a little armor-all or other silicone on there first.
> I'm thinking like if you don't want to get paint on your master cylinde=
r
> when you're painting the firewall, put Armor-All on it (mask it off
> too) or something like that...
>=20
> What do you think?  Bad idea or another cool resto-tip?
>=20
> - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
>=20
> --
> Travis McWaters                     =20


Travis,

If you think that paint has a problem sticking to Armorall, try putting=20
masking tape on it!

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:14:55 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

> I've been told that an easy way to keep paint from sticking is to cover it 
with
> elmer's glue before you spray. when the paint is dry you can then wash the 
glue
> off.
> 
> has anyone ever tried this?
> 
> Dan Dale 

Dan,

Elmer's glue might be fine until it dries, then how do you get it off?  
It dries rather quickly, too, especially if it is thin.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:35:55 -0300
Subject: Smog Legal Cams 

David,
Thank you for your last post on this topic. What I was thinking here was
a list of list & duration numbers which one could review against the
factory specs to make an informed guess on what would pass smog. 
Mondello has numbers for his cams, PAW has some and my 1966 Chassis 
Service Manual has some. 

Agree with your good sense advice about sticking pretty close to street
cams. I'd want to anyway to keep the idle smooth. The question is
how far can you go with that as measured in the lift&duration scale?

>From what I've read there's been a very real shift in cam "style" over
the last 30 years from long duration/low lift to shorter duration higher
lift. I think this might make comparison difficult.

Ladies & Gentlemen?
cf

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:36:53 -0300
Subject: Hot Radio...was Re: Def. of Convector 

>      Judging from the name, Convector, my wild guess would be that a heat 
>      sink of some sort bolts to that part in the back.  Those older radios 
>      weren't the most efficient things and made a lot of heat.
> 


	Boy, thats the truth!  The Wonderbar in my '60 uses a tube
amplifier, and that thing gets just about warm enough to cook eggs on the
thing.  |)

				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:35:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Esko!

Mike Frederick wrote:
>=20
> So guess who called me this morning?
>=20
> ESKO!
>=20
> Phone rings about 9:30, so I answer and a voice says "Hello, This is
> Esko Ilola from Finland"!   !!!!!!!     :o
>=20
> !!!!!!!!!!!!!
>=20
>=20
> This morning he calls so he can send me a fax from a manual!  So I run =
up
> the fax software and he sends me 15-20 pages of a Volvo manual...
>=20
> (wait for it)
>=20
> ...in Finish! =20
>=20
> Best part:  at the end of the conversation, Esko says, "OK, so who can =
I
> call and wake up now?"
>=20
> I told him to call Andy Green...
>=20
> The 66 Toro and Mike
>=20
>=20

Mike,

If this trash keeps up we will get to liking foreigners & there won't be=20
any more reason for war.  I may actually retire my uniform.  What ever=20
happened to the American Way?

Bill Culp, Learning Specialist
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.:  Most of us have a learning disability.  It is no real problem=20
unless we make it so.  We can just love each other & move on.
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:45:00 -0300
Subject: Re: '64 Lighting Question

> 
> Does anyone know if the parking lights on the front of a '64 Cutlass are 
> supposed to go out when the headlights are turned on? I know later models 
> left them on with the headlights...
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 

	When I first put juice to my '60, I was wondering the exact same
thing.  In fact, it was on my list of "strange things to fix" for a
while.  Finallaly figured out there were actually supposed to be that way.

	In fact, I read an article somewhere that said the reason they were 
like
that, is that they were strictly designed for parking (thus the name
"parkng lights"), so they were not needed during regular headlight use.

	One of the explanations they offered was that they were (at least in 
part)
devised in the 50s for use at drive-in movies, where headlights were (and
still are!) very distracting.  The parking lights on my '60 would be
perfect for that too--they have clear lenses, and fairly bright bulbs
making them sort of like tiny headlight.  Pretty cool.  ;)  I can hardly
wait to try them out at the Go West Drive-In here in Missoula when my car
is back up to shape.

	Anyway, just thought I would pitch in my 2 cents...
	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98  

------------------------------

From: eric_b_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:06:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass Patch panels

     Brad,
     What is your address? (E-mail)
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 Deluxe
     Albany, OR

or send direct to Eric B. Buckner@Non-HP.om.cv.hp.com

     


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Cutlass Patch panels
Author:  Non-HP-oldsmobile-owner (oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca) at 
HP-Corvallis,shargw1
Date:    9/18/96 12:28 PM


Sorry if I missed a followup on this, but could you post the info to the 
list?  Thanks!
     
David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!
     
- -----------
Mostly to Craig and Frank,but anyone else who might care. I found a body 
shop in CT. that has patch panels for the front fenders,behind the 
wheel.Sells for about $40 dollars.He also sell Q-panels for the rear at 
about $150 plus $50 S/H each. If you buy 2,the shipping is only $25 each. 
Such a deal!!! Send e-mail to my address if you want any more info.
     
Brad '68 C/S Convt
     
     

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:19:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Hot Radio...was Re: Def. of Convector 

Scott R Clark wrote:

> Boy, thats the truth!  The Wonderbar in my '60 uses a tube amplifier, 
> and that thing gets just about warm enough to cook eggs on the thing.  

Word to the wise:  Buy up any spare tubes you 
find if you want to keep the thing running.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:23:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Esko!

Bill Culp wrote:
> 
> If this trash keeps up we will get to liking foreigners 
> & there won't be any more reason for war.  

Imagine...

> I may actually retire my uniform.  

I did years ago.

> What ever happened to the American Way?

It went.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:00:00 -0300
Subject: End Valve Cover Leaks

Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems on 
'64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leaking 
valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If 
anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:18:04 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks

R Mullen wrote:
> 
> Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems 
> on '64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my 
> leaking valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the 
> sump.

NO!  Don't tell us!  We LIKE those spots on our driveways.

Huh?  Well... OK.  Go ahead.  If you must...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: sbento@mecn.mass.edu
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 19:19:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 12 bolt rear-end

There are quite a few differences in the Olds and Chevy 12 bolt.wo. 
Actually there is really nothing simialr about the two except the width 
and the mounting points. The Chevy 12 bolt has 12 bolts attaching the 
ring gear to the carrier while the Olds only has ten. thats why some 
people say the olds really isn't a 12 bolt.

Unless your restoring your car I think the Chevy 12 bolt is much better 
choice than the Olds rear cause there stronger and you can get parts anywhere 
for them.
 
After the stock 10 bolt in my car stopped cooperating, I installed a 
Chevy 12 bolt. It was a complete bolt in job that only took a couple of 
hours and that thing is bulletproof!! :)

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0


On Wed, 18 Sep 1996 jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:

> Hi all,
> Here's one for anyone who has tangled with a number of 12-bolt GM rear ends. 
>   I was doing my best to answer some of another subscribers questions on 10 
> and 12 bolt rear ends, and ran into one question that I knew someone would 
> be able to answer better than me:
> 
> <<What are the differences between a 12 bolt Olds rear end and a  12 bolt 
> Ch_vy or other GM products 12 bolt rear ends?
> 
> Below is part of my reply to him:
>  -----------------------------------------------
> I'll try to clear up as much as I AM sure about, then maybe we can post a 
> question to the digest to clear up the rest.
> 
> 1) There are differences between the 10 bolt and the 12 bolt both internally 
> and externally.
> 2) Posi (short for posi-traction) is an option that is not specific to 
> amount of bolts (ie. 10 bolt or 12 bolt), but was a factory option.  You can 
> change a single track car to posi by putting in a positraction differential. 
>  In other words you can put a posi unit in a 10 or 12 bolt, as long as you 
> have the right posi unit.  There are posi units for 10 bolts, and posi units 
> for 12 bolts (not interchangeable).
> 3) There is no way to tell from the outside whether a car has posi or not. 
>  The only way to tell is if you jack up the car so that both rear tires are 
> off the ground.  Make sure that the car is quite stable!  Start the car, and 
> put it in drive, and if both tires spin, then you have posi.  If only one 
> spins, then no dice - it's a single track rear end!  Or if you remove the 
> rear end cover, you should be able to see that it is a posi.  (and of course 
> if you leave a single scratch, or double scratch on the pavement)
> 4) Oldsmobile 12 bolt rear ends differ from other GM rear ends like Ch_vys, 
> Bui_cks and Pon_tiacs mainly internally.  In other words, I don't think the 
> guts of a ch_vy rear end will fit in an Olds rear end housing, and vice 
> versa.
> 5) I've been told if you have the entire rear end intact out of another GM 
> product like Ch_vys, it WILL bolt up to the frame of an oldsmobile, but may 
> take some make-shift rigging to get the linkage lined up.
> 6) I've also been told that a Olds 12 bolt rear end is "not a true 12-bolt." 
>  That is the part that confuses me.  (is that according to other GM division 
> standards or what?) They said that it "may have 12 bolts on the outside, but 
> is MORE LIKE a 10 bolt on the inside."  This is where I get lost, because I 
> am quite sure that the guts of a 10 bolt would not work or fit in a 12 bolt, 
> and vice versa.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> Jeff Zeilmann
> SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
> '68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 19:29:00 -0300
Subject: End Valve Cover Leaks -Reply 

>>> R Mullen <r_mullen@Merck.Com> 09/18/96 05:00pm >>>
>Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems
>on  '64-up Olds V8's?  ...
>  If  anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
>Scott Mullen

Let's hear it!

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:34:37 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks 

     Sure, spit it out!  I suspect it involves something like enlarging the 
     drainback hole or drilling another one?  Anyone ever try drilling and 
     tapping the other 5 valve cover hold-down bolt holes on later-model 
     V8's?
     
     FWIW, I just used one of the replacement rubber type gaskets (opposed 
     to the cork ones).  They have them at NAPA for just a few more bucks 
     than the cork type, and are supposed to be a fix for the leaking Olds 
     Valve Cover syndrome.  Gotta specifically ask for them or you'll get 
     the cork kind though.  Easier to install too since they go on dry with 
     no silicone.  Got about 500 miles on them so far, no problems!
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: End Valve Cover Leaks
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/18/96 3:18 PM


Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems on 
'64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leaking 
valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If 
anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
Scott Mullen
'70 442
     

------------------------------

From: sbento@mecn.mass.edu
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:05:46 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks

I have also had good luck with the rubber ones. I have felpro gaskets and 
have yet ot have a problem with them.

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0


On Wed, 18 Sep 1996, Tom Lentz wrote:

> 
>      Sure, spit it out!  I suspect it involves something like enlarging the 
>      drainback hole or drilling another one?  Anyone ever try drilling and 
>      tapping the other 5 valve cover hold-down bolt holes on later-model 
>      V8's?
>      
>      FWIW, I just used one of the replacement rubber type gaskets (opposed 
>      to the cork ones).  They have them at NAPA for just a few more bucks 
>      than the cork type, and are supposed to be a fix for the leaking Olds 
>      Valve Cover syndrome.  Gotta specifically ask for them or you'll get 
>      the cork kind though.  Easier to install too since they go on dry with 
>      no silicone.  Got about 500 miles on them so far, no problems!
>      
>      Tom L.
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
> Subject: End Valve Cover Leaks
> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
> Date:    9/18/96 3:18 PM
> 
> 
> Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems on 
> '64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leaking 
> valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If 
> anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
> Scott Mullen
> '70 442
>      
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:38:15 -0300
Subject: Truth in Advertising 

Part of a recently posted ad for a '72 W-30:

>>,Hooker Headers,all orig. >>

I love it when the modifications (headers) go right next to the "all
original" claim.

Bob Handren                         OCA# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified                  '70 SX Convertible
Handren Associates, Inc.       Oviedo, FL
U.S. FDA Regulatory Affairs   (407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:17:22 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

> Elmer's glue might be fine until it dries, then how do you get it off?  

Same way you got it off your hands in kindergarten.  Didn't anyone here
ever put Elmer's Glue on their hands, wait until it dried, and then peel
it off in front of people, yelling, "Look!  My skin's coming off!"

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:58:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Truth in Advertising

Bob,
That means that they're not fake Hooker headers. They're original.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:10:30 -0300
Subject: Tubes for Autronic Eye and radios 

Further to recent postings regarding availability of tubes (I don't think
they'll have a photomultiplier tube for the Autronic Eye (tm), but other
parts might be there).  I found this URL for a surplus sales house.  Perhaps
it can help.

>http://www.i1.net/~tubes/



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 01:23:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Tubes for Autronic Eye and radios

Spud wrote:
> 
> I found this URL for a surplus sales house.

Excellent.  Thank you web surfer dude.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:25:53 -0300
Subject: 66 patch panel

I am looking for a repro patch panel for the back window area on my 66 442.
Anybody know if a patch panel for a GTO or Chevelle would work? I have seen
those listed by Year One.

Mike

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:30:47 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks

At 23:00 09/18/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>
>Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems on 
>'64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leaking 
>valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If 
>anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
>Scott Mullen
>'70 442
>
 Scott, This sounds like an idea that doesn't need permission to give out
the details. Please send the info along to me, if not to everyone.TIA....

Brad '68 C/S Convt

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:30:29 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks

R Mullen wrote:
>=20
> Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems o=
n
> '64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leak=
ing
> valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If
> anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
> Scott Mullen
> '70 442


Scott,

Of course I'm interested.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:43:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's. 

In a message dated 96-09-18 00:28:37 EDT, you write:

> I have a 77 Toro with a 8 track in it. It has what looks like a seperate
>  amp???

Boy, am I glad my Dad bought that '77 Cutlass Supreme 17 years ago.  17
years!  God!  Anyway, right after that he got a '77 shop manual.  This extra
box thing interests me.  Let's see what the shop manual says.  Hang on while
I go to the garage.....

Well, the C/S has been gone for about 9 years now, but we still have the shop
manual (never get rid of any Olds stuff, you never know when you're gonna
need it!).
The manual dose refer to a test procedure and removal procedures for the
convector, but doesn't explain what it does.  It is referred to as a Stereo
Tape Player Convertor.  Apparently these were only used in Cutlasses and
Toronados.  My guess is that this is much like the old multiplex adapter that
my '67 Ninety Eight has.  In later years, the electonics were made smaller to
that it all fit in one unit unless you had the radio with the build-in
8-track, which didn't allow the room for all the electronics in the radio, so
some of them had to mounted outside?  But why not in the 88/98?  Why not in
anything else?  They all had stereo 8-tracks available, even the Starfire.

Paul 

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:43:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's. 

In a message dated 96-09-18 13:12:21 EDT, you write:

> 71-76 all full size Oldsmobiles (with tape players)
>  used the same convector.  Part number 7936742.  Should be the same for
your
>  77 8-track.  Surely someone out there knows what these things do???

I'm gonna ask my service manager tomorrow what he thinks.  He worked for our
Oldsmobile store back then and hopefully he'll remember what the heck the
point is here and why some models had them and some didn't.

...was thinking about this some more and went and got my '72 shop manual and
there it is - convector.  Guess it must convect or something!  Seriously, it
says in the manual that the big cars have 4 speakers instead of 2 - front
left and rear right are on one channel, front right and rear left are on the
other (as opposed to all front on one and all rear on the other).  This was
called "Crossfire" stereo and the guys at the Olds garage I used to work at
claimed it to be a big thing in its day.  Wonder if this convector has
something to do with that?  But why only with the tape player radio?  '72
manual also lists a testing procedure so it has to be something electronic.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:43:36 -0300
Subject: Re: '64 Lighting Question 

In a message dated 96-09-18 09:31:09 EDT, you write:

> They stayed on for my '64 Jetstar 88.

Yeah, but that's 'cause it had a Chevrolet wiring harness.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:44:43 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

Peg O'Connor wrote:
>=20
> > Elmer's glue might be fine until it dries, then how do you get it off=
?
>=20
> Same way you got it off your hands in kindergarten.  Didn't anyone here
> ever put Elmer's Glue on their hands, wait until it dried, and then pee=
l
> it off in front of people, yelling, "Look!  My skin's coming off!"
>=20
> 8)
> peg


Peg,

Having never gone to kindergarten, I missed that.  No matter what idiot=20
remarks I send, all I get back is sense (nonsense?).  You're probably=20
right too!

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama=20
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:52:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass Patch panels

Sorry to all how could use this info. I just thought that these parts were
available everywhere. Here it is again.

 
 The place that I found is in Middlefield CT. USA. The name is Auto Body
Specialties. They have patch panels for my '68 as well as other years.They
also have patch panels for '76-77 but they are special order= not
stocked.Available in about two weks for $42.50. Their phone number is
860-346-4989. There is another place in Cromwell CT. called Auto Body
Suppliers. Their phone number is 860.346.6000. The guy there said they have
front patch panels "for about $40". You can also get rear quarter patches
for around $150 plus $50 S/H. Hope this helps you.
 
Brad  '68 C/S Convt

bradbaker@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 23:03:53 -0300
Subject: Re: silicone on metal

At 00:17 09/19/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>> Elmer's glue might be fine until it dries, then how do you get it off?  
>
>Same way you got it off your hands in kindergarten.  Didn't anyone here
>ever put Elmer's Glue on their hands, wait until it dried, and then peel
>it off in front of people, yelling, "Look!  My skin's coming off!"
>
>8)
>peg
>
WOW!!! What a flash back!! Thanks Peg for the good laugh!!! I thought I was
the only one that did those sort of things.

Brad '68 C/S Convt (Still trying to stop smiling!! ;) 

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 23:06:06 -0300
Subject: Re: 12 bolt rear-end

On Wed, 18 Sep 1996 Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com wrote:

> How are the new "updated" wheel bearings different?  Whats the
> problem with the original ones?

   The newer ones are slightly wider and are supposed to be stronger 
internally.  He said in the late 70's he did several of these axles a 
week - and this is a small shop!  He noted that the nice thing about 
Olds/Buick rears is that the axles don't wear out since the bearing 
rollers do not ride directly on the axle shaft, a la Chevy. Olds/Buick 
bearings also won't get destroyed from running low on lube since they're 
sealed units.

   While we're on the subject of rear ends, I've got a set of axles from 
my '71 10-bolt Olds rear with brand new (never installed the axles) 
bearings.   I did these in anticipation of tossing them in my 10-bolt, 
but it shredded the ring gear before I could install them.  I'd love to 
get what I paid to have the bearings installed - $100 for the pair.  
Anyone in the NYC area interested?

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:41:00 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks

At 23:00 09/18/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>
>Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems on
>'64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leaking
>valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If
>anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
>Scott Mullen
>'70 442
>

Pass on the info brother Scott.


Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Howard H <howardh@sundial.sundial.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:04:23 -0300
Subject: Antennas (again) 

The antenna Stuck in the raised position on my '84 Hurst. When I turned the
radio off the motor continued to run, but no movement in the mast. I
disconnected the plug to the motor to prevent it from burning out. I assume
the lead that spools up in the the motor has broken. It's located in the
right fender. I've tried to get to it but have been unsuccesful. I was told
to remove screws on rear shield of the wheel well and just bend or pull it
away to access the antenna motor. After removing screws that shield would
not separate from the underbody without what I felt might be permanent
disfiguration. Does any one have any solutions, ideas or instructions to
replace that lead and/or mast? Am I correct in my assumption on what broke?
Thanks for the help!
 
Howard Hosenbold

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 01:02:49 -0300
Subject: Help: using single-lead factory speakers w/aftermarket stereo 

Now that the flippin' dial radio has proven not to fit my '69 Toro, I guess
I'll get an aftermarket knob-equipped unit. Since I'm cheap, this will be a
low-power unit. I'd like to us the stock speakers since they're difficult to
get at (did I mention that I'm lazy as well?), but have a question about
hooking up the factory speakers.

The original speakers only use one lead; I assume the ground is provided
through the dash sheetmetal? Does this mean that one of the aftermarket
speaker outputs will simply be grounded? This is a exibition of my
audiophilic ignorance, and a plea for assistance.

If this plan to use the factory speakers and leads won't work, is anyone
familiar with the stock speaker size as used front and rear in the '69 Toro?
(I assume it's the same as all '66-'70 Toros). I ask this of the general
list, rather than the Toro list, since this is a general-type question
(they're talking about *road-trips* over on that list! And not even
mentioning the word "Olds" or "Toro"! What renegades! ;)

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:50:39 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars 

At 10:03 AM 9/17/96 -0400, you wrote:
>> Huh, the laws must be different in Ohio; around here, you can't _get_ a 
title
[snip]
>Just for the record on how it's done in MA:
>
>Yes, it's true that it *used* to be that cars over 10 y.o. didn't need a 
title.
>Not any more.  It's possible to buy a car w.o. a title (if the previous owner
[snip]
>Never heard of that invalid reg if it fails inspection, Bob.  Sounds
dangerously
>like those 'clunker' laws that states like NJ and CA are passing, which some
>folks claim are being passed so they can legally confiscate cars, crush 'em,
>and take clean air credits for...

I take it that most states have a safety/emissions inspection for used cars
that are new registrations; the difference is when they require that
inspection, and what they require in it.

In CT, you get a temporary license plate (little cardboard thingie) that
allows you to drive your car to a DMV inspection station at the DMV office,
go through inspection, and then go back into the DMV office with proof of
inspection to get a permanent plate. If your car is not roadworthy, you
don't get a permanent plate, and when your temp plate runs out, your car is
unregistered. I did this procedure, oh, about a hundred times before I moved
out of that state; I guess that the people down at DMV would get lonely if
we didn't have to keep coming back... ;)

In NY and RI, you get your permanent plate, put it on your car, and are
_supposed_ to get your car inspected in like a week or so. Once you pass,
your car is "officially" permanently registered. If you don't pass, or you
don't go for the inspection, your car still has a plate and a registration
sticker, but your registration is invalidated, so you are technically
driving an unregistered car. The police officer would know this when they
call in your plate #, or when a year rolls around, you don't have a current
inspection sticker in your windshield, the registration sticker on your
plate expires and the DMV doesn't send you a new one.

Now which state checks what, that's where there's a big variance. In NY, all
cars get safety and emission inspections for a registration sticker, though
outer-body rust-through will not prevent you from passing safety inspection
(my '76 Monte proved that point; right rear quarter panel was only attached
at the roof and the taillight!). In CT, you used to just get a safety
sticker to get registered, and got the emission sticker later, but you
better not have any rust holes penetrating the passenger or trunk areas
(bondo sales are up in CT). In MA, you got the safety and emissions
inspection all at once, but cars over 15 years old aren't checked for
emissions (this was as of '93, when my '78 Electra was pleasantly exempted).
In RI, all cars are officially supposed to pass safety and emissions
inspection (and this becomes a yearly thing, just as in NY and MA; CT only
had yearly emissions inspections), with no outer-body rust-through permitted
(hence Mr. Monte sits in mom&dad's driveway as a kind of guard-dog,
pretending someone's home). In practice, or as a quasi-official policy,
older cars are exempted from emissions inspection; actual written
regulations and their interpretation are pretty fluid around here, depending
mostly upon who you are talking to and what they had for breakfast that day.

So no crusher laws; if you fail, you keep the car, but don't get a
registration until the problem is corrected. Sorry this was so long, but I
went through all this in three states (NY, CT and RI) just to get my '69
Toro (w/o title or registration from immediately-previous owner) registered.
[see, there's the Olds content...]

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 03:56:55 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: '64 Lighting Question 

          ....i.e. You want the parking lights to stay on with the
          headlights, but you don't want the headlights to come on as
          soon as you switch on the parking lights, so a simple jumper
          wire won't do it.) There is probably a solution involving
          diodes and such; wonder if there is one requiring no
          electronics...?
          


          Greg and Andrew,

          Yes, there is an easy solution.  If you compare the pre- and
          post-1968 headlight switches, you will find that the later
          ones have one extra terminal (otherwise they are identical).
           If you get the mating wire harness connector from a post-68
          car, you will also find that it has a wire from this extra
          terminal to the parking lights.  This, of course, is the
          contact which keeps the parking lights on with the
          headlights.  It's an easy swap (at least for 64-67 A-bodies
          - I can't vouch for the rest).  Just get the switch and the
          connector.  You can physically swap the connector by
          removing the terminals from your old one and pushing then
          into the new one.  You will then need to add the additional
          wire from the new terminal position (the one which keeps the
          parking lights on) and splice it into the parking light
          wire.

          As I reread this, it sounds confusing, but looking at the
          parts makes it obvious.  A factory wiring diagram helps a
          lot also :).

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 01:16:31 -0300
Subject: Those numbers...

Just got a '70 442 W-30.
While I'm still not totally convinced that it is a W-30 (or 442), I am 
still trying to decode the numbers to see if they match.  But I cant 
find the engine casting number on the block that is supposed to be on 
the front/driver's side that has part vin on it. I found the one below 
the intake. 
Also, on what side is the numbers for the auto trans.  I found some on a 
little plate on the passanger side, but there wern't enough.  FYI they 
are 70-OG   5856.  If anyone is interested in decoding the rest and/or 
helping me determine if this car is real, please personally e-mail me at 
 bodog@napanet.net

Thanks 
Brad

'70 Olds   ...mabe a 442...even a W-30!

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 07:45:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again)

Howard H wrote:
> 
> The antenna Stuck in the raised position on my '84 Hurst. When I turned the
> radio off the motor continued to run, but no movement in the mast. I
> disconnected the plug to the motor to prevent it from burning out. I assume
> the lead that spools up in the the motor has broken. It's located in the
> right fender. I've tried to get to it but have been unsuccesful. I was told
> to remove screws on rear shield of the wheel well and just bend or pull it
> away to access the antenna motor. After removing screws that shield would
> not separate from the underbody without what I felt might be permanent
> disfiguration. Does any one have any solutions, ideas or instructions to
> replace that lead and/or mast? Am I correct in my assumption on what broke?
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> Howard Hosenbold

Your right in you diagnosis, the flexible cable that raises the mast up & 
down snapped. In order to change the power antenna in my 86 442, I almost 
had the entire fender off the car. There's one bolt that comes through 
the fender liner from under the heater assem. on the firewall, you'll 
never get to it easy. The local dealer said they take of ALL the bolts in 
the door jamb & around the fender well. And don't forget that one BIG 
bolt under the car just behind the wheel. Then pull the fender out under 
the antenna and slip it out, Yah, picture that ! Now my 83 H/O antenna is 
stuck in the up position, guess what, it can stay that way. If you find 
an easier way I'd be interested for sure.
- --
Bill                                           _           _       ___
                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition    /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1986 442 The Perfect "10"                /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                              |_|         |_|   |_______|
          
               Visit http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #305
********************************
 
