To:	oldsmobile-digest @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	09/20/96 09:08:14 AM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #306


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, 20 September 1996     Volume 01 : Number 306


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:49:09 -0300
Subject: Re: RE3: Olds Racing: Epilogue 

In a message dated 96-09-16 18:33:46 EDT, you write:

<< <I've seen some people smear past wax on before hand.  Does this make
 <<it easier to get the rubber off?
 
 Never tried it , but it sounds like it would help.  It took me a while to 
 get it off my 442, when I ran it at the strip, but I didn't try the wax 
 thing.  Let me know if it works.
 
 Jeff Zeilmann
 SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
 '68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible >>


There is something better called Geddex Burnout Guard.  Just spray it on and
let sit 30 min race all day and just rinse off.  I used it two weeks ago at
Norwalk Raceway,  and after 12 hours racing the rubber came off my quarters
and
the corners of my bumper.
You should be able to find it locally, if not go direct
123 N. Chestnut St.
Box 307,
Barnesville, OH 43713  or call 614 425 1000

It does dry clear, and won't hurt your paint and is Biodegradable\

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:22:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models

Reply to message from rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com of Thu, 12 Sep
>
>Stopped by the local Wal-Mart last night and picked up a die cast model of
>a 1970 442 convertible.  It is made by a company called Playing Mantis and 
>is part of their Johnny Lightning series.  This is also part of their Indy 500
>Championship Collection featuring limited edition pace cars.  There are two
>cars per package: the pace car and race winner.  The olds looks pretty 
realistic
>except that mine is in lime green (Wow!) even though the included picture 
>shows it in white and gold.  You guys would be a much better judge at how
>authentic they made it, but it looks pretty cool to me.  If anyone finds it in
>white, or any other colors, I'd be interested.  The cars cost me $4.96.
>

Found mine at the local Hill's for $2.99.  But, it's a 1969 442 and they 
had red and blue.

>The back of the package also lists that they made these for the 1974 Hurst
>Olds and the 1977 Olds Delta 88.  I did not see these at the store though.
>
>Happy shopping
>-Rick
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Katana72@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:25:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again) 

If you can't get to the antenna via the plastic shield, you could try
removing the fender. The same happened on my 79 cutlass wagon and it was the
drive (loop?) that was broken. It's fairly cheap to repair ( replacing the
drive shaft), but can be a pain in the a** to remove and replace the antenna.
There are two things inside the antenna housing other than the motor, a gear
which rotates and pushes the extension unit up or down and the nylon drive
shaft which is connected to the very top of the antenna. The drive shaft is
what normally breaks. It should be available from your local GM dealer for
approx $25.00 Good Luck,

Katana72    It's NOT your father's Oldsmobile!!!!!!!!        Hastimgs, MN

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:34:30 -0300
Subject: Re: '64 Lighting Question

At 10:43 PM 9/18/96 -0300, PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 96-09-18 09:31:09 EDT, you write:
>
>> They stayed on for my '64 Jetstar 88.
>
>Yeah, but that's 'cause it had a Chevrolet wiring harness.
>

Now that I've thought about it some more, I don't really recall
one way or the other whether or not they stayed on. 



Dan Gulino

************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:53:00 -0300
Subject: Valve cover leaks solved

The reason why I asked about interest in this is due to the verbosity needed 
to describe it.  Sine you asked for it, here goes......   Gold star to Tom 
Lentz for guessing that a drill bit is involved in this one.  I did this 
project when I had my mill (just torn down and still dirty) on the stand, so 
that is the only way I'm going to recommend doing it.  Full credit for the 
idea of an external oil return system goes to Joe Mondello, who told me he 
does this to race and marine (i.e. heavily flogged) engines.  By the way, 
the purpose of this whole thing is better oil return.  The leak free valve 
covers are a nice bonus.

 First thing to do is get your die grinder out and enlarge the oil return 
hole (downward) that is located at the front of the lifter valley.  Blend 
the lower side of the hole downward so that any oil coming down from the 
front oil return holes does not pool in the valley, but instead will drain 
immediately down through that round hole.

Next, use your die grinder to smooth out the entrance to the oil return 
holes located at either end of the cylinder heads.  This is especially 
important for the rear (towards the firewall) holes, since the natural tilt 
of the installed engine pools the oil to the back of the head.  Typically, 
these holes were simply drilled into the head perpendicular the head 
surface, so there is alot of improvement that can be made to the entrance of 
the hole.  The end result should look like a funnel.  BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT 
GRINDING TOO MUCH!!!  You want to make a funnel, not a canyon.  Just use a 
fairly fine burr in your grinder so that a nice satin finish results.

Closely examine your oil return holes and you'll see that the large gallery 
drilled in from the valve spring area is intersected by a small gallery that 
actually returns the oil to the valley.  For the motor head with a good 
collection of burrs, a long shaft burr with a small (1/4") head can be used 
to do some limited smoothing out of the intersection of the galleries.  By 
looking down the large gallery, you can see that the oil must climb uphill 
to reach the entrance to the small gallery.  Since oil can't climb, it pools 
in the valve spring area until it reaches a high enough level to spill down 
the small gallery.  With my engine on the stand and the valve covers/intake 
manifold off, I poured oil over the valve springs to simulate the oil return 
process in a running engine.  I had oil all over the floor and none coming 
out the return hole into the valley.  That explains why my valve covers 
would frequently leak.  They were literally holding about 3 ounces of oil 
each due to the poor oil return design of the Olds cylinder head.  Six 
ounces doesn't sound like much, but at 135 MPH (5700 RPM in my 3.23:1 cogged 
442, still couldn't stay up with that '70 GTO....) I want every ounce in the 
oil pan, not in the valve cover area.

Now comes the fun part.  Make sure you have each head on the correct side of 
the engine (I think they're interchangeable too, but I've always kept them 
on the same sides; don't ask me why...)  You will be installing 90 degree 
elbows on the back of each head.  I did this four years ago, and as I 
recall, I used 1/4 NPT fittings.  Once you read this, you can decide on the 
size of the plumbing for yourself.  I drilled a hole into the back of the 
cylinder head to intersect the large gallery that comes down from the valve 
spring area.  Use a depth gauge or similar tool to determine the correct 
spot to drill.  There is a bulge in the casting that corresponds to the 
gallery, so this is pretty easy to do.  Ideally, the bottom portion your 
drilled hole will intersect the large gallery at its bottom.  In this way, 
you will get maximum drainage without drilling into unknown territory.  Tap 
the hole for the appropriate thread size.  Repeat this operation on the 
other head.

Next, you'll have to decide where to drill the back of the block to install 
a tee fitting.  Joe Mondello recommended using the machined portion on the 
vertical part of the block(right below the area where the rear intake mani 
seal would go) near the distributor hole.  The important thing here is to 
place the hole lower than the holes you drilled in the heads, so that 
gravity can do its thing.  You won't have a whole lot of difference in 
height between the block holes and the head holes, since the block hole will 
have to be drilled high enough to allow you to screw in the tee fitting 
(that's an important thing to check BEFORE you drill!!!).  As I recall, my 
block hole is about 3/4" lower than the head holes.  Before you drill, make 
sure the distributor clearance is accounted for.

Now, you simply connect the heads and the block using your choice of braided 
steel line or fuel line.  Joe uses braided aircraft hose.  I used metal fuel 
line  because I had just spent most of my available pennies on a RAM clutch 
and pressure plate.  I should not have used metal line because 1) the 
bending and precise lengths required really taxed my patience and 2) when I 
was smugly enjoying the rather nice finished result, it dawned on me that I 
could no longer remove my distributor!  Once the engine is reinstalled, 
space is very tight, and there ain't no way your going to get in there and 
disconnect  metal lines.  I could rotate the distributor for timing changes, 
but removal was not possible.  Off came the metal pipe and on went 1/2 " 
heater hose with double clamps.  Make sure you keep the set up flowing 
downhill from heads to block, but tight enough to allow easy engine 
installation.  Since the oil return is not under pressure, braided line is 
total overkill.  But guess what I'll be switching to next time the motor is 
out for PM?  Yep, Mr. Mondello's advice to me has never been wrong.  I'll be 
installing braided line.

This has been a long posting, but it's worth it.  Once you have the engine 
on the stand, this will be much easier to conceptualize.  I which I could 
scan a picture of this for all of you.  When I repeated my oil pouring 
experiment, no oil came out the rear return holes in the head.  Every bit 
went through my newly installed return system.  Complimented by some 
contouring with the die grinder to the rear of the valley beneath my newly 
drilled hole, the oil now returns down the back of the valley, directly 
above the sump.  The important thing about this project is to carefully 
visualize and do lots of "mock-ups" before you drill anything.  Also, clean 
everything thoroughly when you are done (meaning garden hose clean).  Now my 
valve covers never leak, so I've been able to switch to the extra-thick Mr. 
Gasket cork gaskets, which gives me clearance for Mondello's SAR-455 
adjustable roller tip rockers under stock valve covers ( that adventure 
could fill a page or two....).  One more thing, this set up is virtually 
invisible when installed, so even stock purists can take advantage of a race 
proven oil return system.  I've had my hood opened up for some pretty sharp 
Olds fans, and nobody has ever spotted it.  Blends in nicely with the stock 
valve covers and the Edelbrock Performer with the name ground off and spray 
painted Olds blue.... Ooops!  Pretend you didn't read that.  However, it is 
difficult to service any leaks, so do it right the first time or get your 
hoist ready.....
Good Luck!
Scott Mullen
Totally stock (looking) '70 442  with the no-leak valve covers














 

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:36:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.

At 10:43 PM 9/18/96 -0300, PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 96-09-18 00:28:37 EDT, you write:
>

>The manual dose refer to a test procedure and removal procedures for the
>convector, but doesn't explain what it does.  It is referred to as a Stereo
>Tape Player Convertor.  Apparently these were only used in Cutlasses and
>Toronados.  My guess is that this is much like the old multiplex adapter that
>my '67 Ninety Eight has.  In later years, the electonics were made smaller to
>that it all fit in one unit unless you had the radio with the build-in
>8-track, which didn't allow the room for all the electronics in the radio, so
>some of them had to mounted outside?  But why not in the 88/98?  Why not in
>anything else?  They all had stereo 8-tracks available, even the Starfire.


My '75 Delta 88 DOES have one of these things.  It's right under the glove
box.  The car originally came with an AM/FM/8-track, which it still has.



Dan Gulino


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 11:21:21 -0300
Subject: Is the list dead? (delete this right away)

Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
Just testing if the list was dead. Didn't see my message after 2 hours.

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:07:32 -0300
Subject: Re: End Valve Cover Leaks 

At 10:41 PM 9/18/96 -0300, you wrote:
>At 23:00 09/18/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>>
>>Anybody interested in permanently ending leaking valve cover problems on
>>'64-up Olds V8's?  Joe Mondello shared a tip with me that ended my leaking
>>valve covers while simultaneously improving oil return to the sump.  If
>>anyone is interested I'll pass on the story.
>>Scott Mullen
>>'70 442
>>
>
>Pass on the info brother Scott.
>
Well Scott..... Is this some sort of cruel joke? You know like "how do you
drive a lugnut crazy?" Don't tell him!!

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible...up on jackstands again!!
     

------------------------------

From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:07:07 -0300
Subject: '66 442 exhaust questions 

The exhaust tips on my '66 442 are not stock.  (They have flares, or trumpets
similar to the later models.)  Could someone describe the correct tips to
me and perhaps provide a source for obtaining a set?  Also what is their
proper positioning with respect to the bumper bolts?  Mine are set about 3 to
4 inches outside the bumper bolts right now.  I'm fairly certain that these
are interchangeable with the '67's.

Thanks,

Mike Turley
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:42:36 -0300
Subject: Thanks for the ignition switch, Vent cover reply

Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
Thanks for everybody participated in the switch search.

I had a little problem in deciding who would be the delivery-guy.

If I would have the $$$, I would have ordered it from everyone volunteered,
and have swamped in them.

Thanks for Travis in advance.

Mike didn't tell that I tried to FAX those VOLVO-docs earlier that day.

It was 09:00 (in the morning) Finnish time. That is 7 hours in advance
your time (02:00 in the night) As you know, the FAX-machine
lets you hear the receiving machine before the faxing actually starts.
The sound I heared was by no means a fax-machine. My machine could not
solve the communications problem with the waken-up-Mike and automatically
terminated the transmission. Didn't dare to call again to apologize.

It is cool (+5 degrees above zero) outside and the sun is shinig from
a cloudless sky.

During september all trees which have leaves turn into bright-yellow-red.
The colours are very intensive and eye-pleasing. We use to pick mushrooms
(to eat them) at this time of year. For some reason, only a few people have
died in eating poisonous ones. Propably because the lethal species are
quite rare here in finland and most get the mushroom-knowledge in very
early age.

The vent cover:
Much discussion of the bleeding vent cover. I had this problem too.
I bought new gaskets from the local dealer and used silicone to attach them
on the covers. The side of the gasket which faces the block was I left untouch.
I think that this way I might be able to reuse the gaskets.
They keep all oil inside.

Another bleeder was the PVC above the passenger side vent cover. I found a
suitable piece from the local store, used a my fish-filering knife and had
a perfect match.

And this again reminds me. I didn't get the answer for my vent-cover
query (wish I didn't delete it). So, what would the original colour be?

**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile 98  1964  4D HT                 *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:13:44 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> It is referred to as a Stereo Tape Player Convertor.  Apparently these 
> were only used in Cutlasses and Toronados.  

Due to the some of the electromechanicals in a tape play, it's possible 
that it was being used to heatsink driver transistors in the tape 
mechanism.  Such as the solenoid used to switch the head up and down in a 
8-track.

> My guess is that this is much like the old multiplex adapter that
> my '67 Ninety Eight has.  

77 seems pretty late for an external multiplex decoder.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:09:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> ...why some models had them and some didn't.

My 64 manual doesn't say BUT it does say it was use in all GM models.

> This was called "Crossfire" stereo and the guys at the Olds garage I 
> used to work at claimed it to be a big thing in its day.

Yeah, they even claim a patent for it.  Duh!  Maybe I can get a patent 
for switching my surround sound speakers around in the living room.   ;)

> Wonder if this convector has something to do with that?

Maybe.  But I notice the DS-46 transistor mentioned is a low-power 
transistor and was not mounted in a typical power transistor case (like 
those flat guys you often find on the back of the amp).  It was used as a 
small-signal amplifier, a relay driver, and as an OUTPUT transistor.  If 
it WAS used in some models as an output transistor, the addition of a 
convector/heat sink would make some sense.  A more typical power output 
transistor would use a more typical mounting - the finned heat sink.

> But why only with the tape player radio? '72 manual also lists a 
> testing procedure so it has to be something electronic.

Dunno.  But my manual does list it in the Wonderbar Radio section.  
What's the procedure say?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 07:12:12 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

>=20
> So no crusher laws; if you fail, you keep the car, but don't get a
> registration until the problem is corrected. Sorry this was so long, bu=
t I
> went through all this in three states (NY, CT and RI) just to get my '6=
9
> Toro (w/o title or registration from immediately-previous owner) regist=
ered.
> [see, there's the Olds content...]
>=20
> -----------
> - Bob Barry

Bob,

AL has no inspection law except for salvage titles.  We have no titles=20
of any kind for 1974 or earlier.  A car doesn't have to be in the state=20
to be registered.  One just takes a handwritten bill of sale w/vin=20
(needs no addresses but the new owner's) & get a registration & plate. =20
Rust doesn't mean anything (we usually don't have it anyway), exhaust,=20
broken glass, headlights - heck it doesn't even have to run.  To be on=20
the road though, one can be ticketed for excessive noise (must be very=20
bad), inoperable lights, or severely broken windshields.

As I said earlier, I just got the vin from my friend, wrote myself a=20
bill-of-sale, purchased a $10 antique license, wrote him a bill of sale,=20
& sent everything to him in TN.  A state senator even licensed a kid's=20
wagon once to show what a joke our license system was.=20

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama=20
- --=20
MZ=90

------------------------------

From: RBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:18:45 -0300
Subject: Misc. Delta ?

     Several questions to tap the olds knowledge out there.
     
     1) My '74 Delta has a TH375 Trans.  Surprised me the first time I 
     crawled under there.  I'm familiar with the 400 and 350 in my other 
     cars.  Is this a "hybrid" between the two?  Any one have any details?
     
     2) I have seen Deltas of this era with SSII's (i.e  pictures in JWO, 
     etc.)  I suspected that this car had the larger bolt pattern, but... 
     tried a extra set I had around anyway and they didn't fit.  Did this 
     car ever come with the smaller pattern OR do any SS wheels have the 
     larger pattern?
     
     3) In the things that drive you nuts department:  The climate control 
     system stopped working all of a sudden.  Air just blows out of the 
     lower heat vent (center dash-floor).  First thing I think is stuck 
     cable/door that is keeping the air from being distributed to dash, 
     defrost, etc.  Not obvious...get out my '72 Chassis Service Manual... 
     still not obvious.  Ideas anyone?
     
     Thanks in advance,
     
     Bob Braden OCA#?
     rbraden@qualitybio.com
     1971 442 coupe
     1972 442 conv. 
     1974 88  conv.   

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:38:50 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

Just in case this makes in into a FAQ someday and in the interests of 
completeness:

Florida does not have safety inspections (though they once did).  Some 
high-density counties have emission testing done at registration time.  
The good news is that cars manufactured prior to the 1975 model year are 
exempt.  :)

Interesting title note:  When I was moving here in 92 from Pennsylvania, 
I registered the Toro in Florida PRIOR to moving.  They sent me a form 
which I filled out and had signed by a local police officer (to attact to 
it's accuracy), sent it back and got a plate.  ...then drove it to Tampa.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:20:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again)

Your right in you diagnosis, the flexible cable that raises the mast up &
down snapped. In order to change the power antenna in my 86 442, I almost
had the entire fender off the car. There's one bolt that comes through
the fender liner from under the heater assem. on the firewall, you'll
never get to it easy. The local dealer said they take of ALL the bolts in
the door jamb & around the fender well. And don't forget that one BIG
bolt under the car just behind the wheel. Then pull the fender out under
the antenna and slip it out, Yah, picture that ! Now my 83 H/O antenna is
stuck in the up position, guess what, it can stay that way. If you find
an easier way I'd be interested for sure.
- -- 

Bill !                                         _           _       ___
                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Aniversary Edition    /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1986 442 The Perfect "10"                /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                              |_|         |_|   |_______|
          
               Visit http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:29:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again)

At 07:45 AM 4/11/96 -0300, Bill Gochenour wrote:

>Now my 83 H/O antenna is 
>stuck in the up position, guess what, it can stay that way. If you find 
>an easier way I'd be interested for sure.
>--


My '75 Delta 88 has a power antenna, and it, too, stopped working.  It is
stuck in the up position (which is where you need it for the radio to work
properly), and it can stay there, too.  I looked into removing it, and you
really do have to move heaven and earth to get at it.  I've seen replacement
NOS ones in the Fusick catalog, and they're around $90.  For now, the
antenna looks fine, and no one ever asks, "shouldn't it be DOWN, since the
engine is off???".  I'm not going to destroy their illusions!


Dan Gulino



************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "bansell" <bansell@xl.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:47:31 -0300
Subject: 84' HURST PICTURES? 

     DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND PICTURES (JPEG,GIF'S) 
     OF AN 84' HURST.. IF ANYONE KNOWS COULD YOU PLEASE WRITE
     ME BACK AT THIS ADDRESS.. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
                                   -BILL ANSELL
     bansell@xl.com

------------------------------

From: <eekstrom@coris.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:44:51 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Chicago Area Member's Lunch

     I'm interested.  Count me in.  Let me know when and where.  If I can 
     make it, awesome.
     
     Ed Ekstrom     
     eekstrom@coris.com    
     Westmont, IL
     72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  
     


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Chicago Area Member's Lunch
Author:  "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu> at ~WLBRK03
Date:    9/16/96 8:16 PM


Sounds like a good idea!  So far I have
     
David Wilk          ???
Andrew Green        acg@dlogics.com
Brett Chaveriat     brett@actel.com
Jeff Easton         Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com 
David Brown         dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
     
David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!
     
- ---------------     
        Andrew, I like your idea of getting the Chicago area folks 
     together.  I travel a lot, so I am not a good candidate to schedule 
     it.  Any others interested?  Anybody interested in setting it up?
     My preference would be for dinner or weekend, as we probably work in 
     many different areas.
     
     Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
     brett@actel.com
     72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.
     
     

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:52:19 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

Bill Culp wrote:
> 
> As I said earlier, I just got the vin from my friend, wrote myself a
> bill-of-sale, purchased a $10 antique license, wrote him a bill of 
> sale,& sent everything to him in TN.

Sounds like you've got the making of a cottage industry, Bill.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:47:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Thanks for the ignition switch, Vent cover reply

Esko.Ilola@tele.telebox.fi wrote:

> My machine could not solve the communications problem with the 
> waken-up-Mike and automatically terminated the transmission. Didn't 
> dare to call again to apologize.

Glad the phone is on Jeannie's side of the bed!   :)

> It is cool (+5 degrees above zero) outside and the sun is shinig from
> a cloudless sky. 
Brrr...

> ...most get the mushroom-knowledge in very early age.

Is this a Don Juan thing?

> I bought new gaskets from the local dealer and used silicone to attach 
> them on the covers. 

Cautionary note:  We used to use that blue silicone stuff all the time in 
Ye Olde Sprint Car.  Until we found little bits and pieces of it floating 
around in the motor.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:12:34 -0300
Subject: RE: Misc. Delta ? 

>     3) In the things that drive you nuts department:  The climate control 
>     system stopped working all of a sudden.  Air just blows out of the 
>     lower heat vent (center dash-floor).  First thing I think is stuck 
>     cable/door that is keeping the air from being distributed to dash, 
>     defrost, etc.  Not obvious...get out my '72 Chassis Service Manual... 
>     still not obvious.  Ideas anyone?

Same thing happend on my '72 Cutlass Cruiser.  The vacuum line from the engine 
to the vacuum canister was not connected.

I'd also check the vacuum actuated mode units that control the flaps.  The 
cable for the vent is behind the glove box.

Hope this helps.

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:17:58 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.  Solved?

I'm looking at the schematic for the 64 "AM and Stereo AM/FM Radio/Tape" 
unit, figure 6-22.  The schematic shows the power output transistors (Q16 
and Q17) as remotely mounted from the amplifier board through connector 
P6/J6 and is labeled "remote ConVector".  
                                ^
Ah-ha!  

So it would appear that in the interests of space/airflow/whatever, GM 
remotely mounted the output transistor stage.  This would explain why 
it's called a Convector: it's a remotely mounted heatsink/transistor 
assembly and why there was an alignment procedure for it (prolly idle 
current).  It would also explain why the unit in question doesn't work 
without it.  (that was where we started wasn't it?)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:44:51 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's.

At 10:36 AM 9/19/96 -0300, Daniel Gulino wrote:

>
>My '75 Delta 88 DOES have one of these things.  It's right under the glove
>box.  The car originally came with an AM/FM/8-track, which it still has.

Ok I checked the 8-track in my 80 442 and it *does not* have a seperate box.
Neither does the 8-track in my 75 H/O. The 80 8-track was manufacutued in
June 7, 1980 while the 75 8-track was manufactured in November of 74.
Interesting.......

________________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Grad Student in Sports Administration at Kent State University
1988 Iroc Z/28	1974 Buick Riviera Stage I 455
1980 4-4-2 W-30	1975 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:49:04 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

>As I said earlier, I just got the vin from my friend, wrote myself a 
>bill-of-sale, purchased a $10 antique license, wrote him a bill of sale, 
>& sent everything to him in TN.  A state senator even licensed a kid's 
>wagon once to show what a joke our license system was. 

I might have to do that when my 75 H/O is ready for the road.........


________________________________________________________
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Grad Student in Sports Administration at Kent State University
1988 Iroc Z/28	1974 Buick Riviera Stage I 455
1980 4-4-2 W-30	1975 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: Clay Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 07:04:59 -0300
Subject: RE:  Contact List (Set up a Form!)

Okay, somebody needs to take some initiative in this, so I decided to.
 I have  set up an online form for you to fill out that makes it easy
to collect the neccessary information.  I'll collect the information,
organize it, and then forward it to whoever is in charge of this list
(greg?) Or if everybody would rather, I can post the info on the
internet so that it can be accessed.  If I end up posting the list
myself, I'll make it so that you could include a picture of yourself
or your car (small picture) or whatever.  At any rate though, stop by
the form and, if you all approve of it, then I will start compiling
the information. the form is at:
http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/oldsmembers.html 
When 3 or 4 people send replies approving of the form Then I 
will send a message for people to begin filling out the 
form.                            

Clayton, trying to return some of the help you've given me
zcwp11@access.ETSU-Tn.Edu                                             
      
- --
"It is in vain to hope to please all alike.  
 Let a man stand with his face in what direction he will, 
 he must necessarily turn his back on one half of the world."
     
               George Dennison Prentice

                -------***++***-------
                      
                    Clayton Pierce
 home page at: http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/
            zcwp11@access.east-tenn-st.edu
                    (423) 
638-2780                                                              
           
                -------***++***-------            

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 14:08:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Those numbers...

Brad,
First of all, the VIN on the dash should start out with 34467 (convertible, 
34477 (sports coupe), or 34487 (holiday coupe). If one of these is the first 
five numbers, its a 442.
The OG transmission was used on 442's, and not W30's. Assuming your car is an 
automatic, the transmission should be an OW. The VIN number is on the drivers 
side, between the two vertical ribs. It should start out 30M with the VIN 
numbers behind it.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:18:59 -0300
Subject: Re: '66 442 exhaust questions 

          Mike,

          I can't speak to the 67, but my 66 came with the original
          chambered tail pipes.  The tip of the pipe is slashed off at
          about a 60 degree angle and there is a chrome (stainless
          steel?) bezel formed over the end of teh pipe.  The chrome
          part is about 3/4 inch wide on the outside and goes
          completely around the pipe.  It is formed over the edge of
          the pipe and extends up into the inside by a like amount.
          the chrome part is parallel to the pipe, not flared.

          My service manual gives exhaust pipe alignment data, but
          unfortunately it is at home in Virginia and I am in Phoenix.
          I'll look it up tonight when I get home and attempt to post
          it tomorrow.

          Don't know if the tips are available repro by themselves,
          but I've seen ads for the entire tailpipe (Year One?).
          Unfortunately, the repro pipes are the stock 2" and a
          reasonably built motor wants something like 2 1/4 or 2 1/2.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: David Wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:39:12 -0300
Subject: Members form

A great job!  The form looks good to me, but what do I know.  Some Oldsmobile
wall paper might be nice.

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 14:39:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc. Delta ?

> From: RBraden@qualitybio.com

>      1) My '74 Delta has a TH375 Trans.  Surprised me the first time I 
>      crawled under there.  I'm familiar with the 400 and 350 in my other 
>      cars.  Is this a "hybrid" between the two?  Any one have any
details?

Hi Rob:
Quoting from "How to work With and Modify the Turbo Hydra-matic 400
Transmission", by Ron Sessions (an excellent book):
"The Turbo 375 was used in '72-'76 passenger cars with small-displacement
V-8 engines with lower torque output.  Compared with a stock TH400m the 375
used fewer plates in its clutch stacks.  It also used an output shaft of
the same OD (outside diameter) as a Turbo 350.  The 375 extension housing
was chosen so that when fitted, it would give the transmission the same
overall length as a Turbo 350 with its long extension housing.  This
permitted the use of a 350-type drive shaft and slip-yoke at the assembly
plant."

Earlier it reads: " ... (it) is identifiable by the 1/4-in.high, 6-in.-long
script cast onto the bottom of the extension housing ... (reading) ... 'THM
375'."  This is probably what you saw under the car.    

Despite the references to the TH350 in the first quote, the TH375 is
basically identical to the TH400 with the exception of the number of clutch
plates used.  In terms of maintenance, pan size, and parts, it's the same
as the TH400.  I think the service manuals from these years have a chart
listing the number of clutch plates in the various makes of THs.  If you
have a TH375, the car would have originally had a 350 cid. engine (from
72-76).  In 71, Oldsmobile put TH350s in their full size cars with 350 cid.
engines.  If you are thinking of putting in a 455 cid., you may want to
scrounge around for a TH400 as well, since if you're pushing it, the
clutches will burn out faster.  

I had a 75 Delta 88 with a 350/375 combo.  The tranny was shot (wouldn't
shift into 2nd gear) so I took it to get rebuilt.  The mechanic took one
look and said "That's the TH400: the best one they every built."  I didn't
feel like pointing out the difference (of course he may have known the
difference and didn't want to explain it to me) and he rebuilt it
perfectly.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:02:54 -0300 
Subject: Re: Those numbers...

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>

>Just got a '70 442 W-30.
>While I'm still not totally convinced that it is a W-30 (or 442), I am
>still trying to decode the numbers to see if they match.  But I cant
>find the engine casting number on the block that is supposed to be on
>the front/driver's side that has part vin on it. I found the one below
>the intake.

The heads should be Casting F for W-30, E for normal 442.  That
should be the large (1" tall) casting letter you found below the
intake, on the head.  Directly below that letter, just after the head-block
mating surface is a small machined pad, maybe 1/2" tall by a
couple inches wide that has the 3Mxxxxx where xx is the last
numbers of your VIN.  These numbers are stamped into this
surface.  You usually have to clean all the grease and crud
off to read them, and if yours is like mine, then held the punch
crooked so part of the stamping is pretty light.
A small mirror and penlight comes in handy here.  If you have
AC, then the Alternator bracket is probably in the way too.

>Also, on what side is the numbers for the auto trans.  I found some on a
>little plate on the passanger side, but there wern't enough.  FYI they
>are 70-OG   5856.

Its been a long while since I looked at a TH-400, but I think there is
a small 1"x2" metal tag rivited to the case, just above the pan on the
drivers side.  Its has the numbers you show above.  The stamped
part of the number again is the last part of your VIN.

I seem to recall that the OW trans was the W-30 version.  Your
OG may indicate a regular 442 trans.  I'd have to consult a book
to be sure.

Send me email if you want me to look up something tonight.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:25:54 -0300
Subject: new member introduction

	i've been on the list for about a week and just finished deleting 
about 
450 messages from all of you from the past week.  as you can see i don't 
check my e-mail all that often.
    so far it's been great, there's tons of great information betweeen 
all of you.
	i've noticed not too many people have mid 80's olds.  i hope that 
i'm not alone in this group.  i have owned a 85 cutlass supreme for the 
past 2 years.  it has a 307 with four barrel, buckets, shifter on the 
console, and landau roof.  it used to some nice non original rims but 
they got stolen from me a couple of weeks ago.  if any of you were at 
nationals this summer you might have seen it in the modified class.  it 
is lowered but not too much.  i did happen to take home a third place 
trophy also.  not to bad for a 21 year old who never showed a car before.
	the cutlass is a daily driver, i also use it for work, i deliver 
pizzas with it.  it used to turn a lot of heads, but it looks funny now 
with pontiac(yuck!) steel rims and blue walls on it.  
	i am a senior attending bryant college in R.I. but my hometown is 
in northern Jersey.  i do hope to do some work to it after i graduate, 
although i haven't exactly made up my mind on what i want to do with it.
      
happy oldsmobiling

Bill Reilly
1985 Cutlass Supreme
wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

 P.s.    anyone planning on going to the rallye 350 meet at englishtown 
nj in october???

	

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 07:10:07 -0300
Subject: RE: Misc. Delta ? 

>>     3) In the things that drive you nuts department:  The climate control 
>>     system stopped working all of a sudden.  Air just blows out of the 
>>     lower heat vent (center dash-floor).  
>
>Same thing happend on my '72 Cutlass Cruiser.  The vacuum line from the 
engine 
>to the vacuum canister was not connected.

>I'd also check the vacuum actuated mode units that control the flaps.  The 
>cable for the vent is behind the glove box.

>Hope this helps.
>
>Roger Borlase
>http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase/

Yup, my sentiments exactly. 

 My vacuum hose falls off of the cannister at regular intervals.  Just
because the hose is old and stretched too wide to stay on.  I have to get
out and put it back on about once every six weeks and then make a mental
note to replace the hose when I get time...I've been doing this since about
1993.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:39:24 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

>	i've noticed not too many people have mid 80's olds.  i hope that 
>i'm not alone in this group.  i have owned a 85 cutlass supreme for the 
>past 2 years. 
>happy oldsmobiling
>
>Bill Reilly

     Well, Bill, you're definately not alone!  This list is big enough that
there are lots of Olds everythings here, which is really cool!  One thing
I've noticed about the mid-80's around here, though.  There were millions of
them made, and about 97% of those got destroyed by people who should've
bought Fords.  And that remaining 3% of people who truly appreciate
automotive perfection actually realize what they've got.  I guess that helps
us appreciate ours even more.  Its ironic to refer to a car as "commonly
rare," but I think it does fit here.  Helps out with that sleeper image,
too!  I often here the words "what, that?" shortly after the words "wanna
race?"  That's usually the last time they see my headlights!  This is called
fun.... :)  When I had the hood off, though, it looked more "awake" (non
sleeper-ish) but that only lasted a week, and now it's back to its docile
grocery getter appearance.  I've got some more pictures going into my web
page now if you want to check them out.  The paint isn't all that great, but
I have my fun!
     Anyway, to make a long story short, welcome aboard, you're not alone
with the rest of our 3% here....
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 02:19:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Another color 

Thats kind of how we narrowed it down that there didnt seem to be a
connection - we are Idaho based back to the mid-1800's with no forays out
your way.

>Would be interesting if you were; I went to school with her (Virginia).
>New Trier East High School in Winnetka, IL. Movie star factory of the
>Midwest...
>
>No, Virginia wouldn't know me personally...  :-(
>
>Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
>Datalogics, Inc.
>441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473
>
>
>

Sincerely

James Thingwold
Glass Line Newsletter 
120 S Kroeger St.
Anaheim, CA.  92805-4011  USA

Phone: (714) 520-0121
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
E-Mail:                                  jht@exo.com  
OR                                        jim@hotglass.com

No frames :                          http://www.hotglass.com/

NetScape,  Frames :          http://exo.com/~jht/index.html
This document is designed to be viewed using Java & Netscape 2.0's Frame
Features
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 02:17:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Another color 

Considering its not a common name & there arent all that many of us - when
we heard of her everyone checked what they know but no such luck!

>PS: Lisa: any relation to Virginia Madsen, the movie actress?
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
>
Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 & '72 Vista Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/lisa.htm


                   \\\\\\|/////
                    \\ - - //
                    ( 0 0 )
      ----oooO--(_)--Oooo---


          .oooO
             (   )    Oooo.
       ----- \  (----(   )--------
               \_)    )  /
                      (_/   
           Hang in there!!

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:42:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc. Delta ?

Greg Pruett wrote:

> My vacuum hose falls off of the cannister at regular intervals.  Just
> because the hose is old and stretched too wide to stay on.  I have to 
> get out and put it back on about once every six weeks and then make a 
> mental note to replace the hose when I get time...I've been doing this 
> since about 1993.

Cheap trick involving no trip to the parts 
store and counteracts recurrent brain fade:

Get some light gauge wire (like chicken wire), wrap it around the hose at 
the fitting about three times.  Twist the two ends together until tight 
then cut the excess wire off.  1 ea. no frills, extremely adjustable, low 
pressure hose clamp.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 02:56:41 -0300
Subject: Vista Cruiser & intro 

I sent this message a couple days ago but server & computer were being
*funky* and my old message regarding the Saffron color & '68 ad went out -
go figure (I am technologically impaired in the computer dept. & wont offer
any theories.  So if this message comes BACK from never never land I
apologize for its length & duplication.

I've been on the list for 6 mos. or so.  I started in Olds in '77 in high
school when my boyfriend convinced me to buy his '67 Cutlass Supreme Convert
so he could get the Chevelle he was salivating over.  I lived on a street
with all guys & all had cars so I just joined in (my Dad had taught me alot
already)  I rebuilt the 330 to produce 325 HP as rated out of the factory,
put on an Edelbrock alum highrise, 650 Holley, Iskendarian cam (these guys
were great, we called with all we were putting in the motor & they said
"we'll fix you right up" and UPS'd us the cam they recommended & it was
perfect),  and generally put in everything that my speed shop owning friend
said "is the hot ticket".  I ran low 14's all day long as consistent as
anything at our local track.  Also had a Turbo 350 I had 'specialized' by my
friend the tranny wizard, and a limited slip rear w/ 3:42:1 Zoom gears.
Dual exhaust through 2 1/2" pipes with a cross  over tube - hemi mufflers.
Painted it deep Corvette blue with a white top.  Restored my SSI wheels &
she was the sleeper of all time (see my web page for photo).  She got sold
along the line - I now have a '67 Delta 88 2 door Custom - big but no slouch
with a 425, 66,000 orig. miles in such beautiful shape I couldnt pass her
up.  Also have my favorite baby - my '72 Vista Cruiser  that I'm gonna do
the 350 in much as I did my 330.

And to Roger - at our local So Cal Olds show this weekend - saw one of those
'72 V-C's with the 442-W-31 option - THREE FACTORY ORDERED for 1972 ONLY.
Wow.  Restored car, 455 with full treatment - functional hood scoops, air
induction system.  He knows of the other 2 also.  442 badges, grille & hood
are only difference.  AND WE SMOKED THE CUTLASS' IN OUR CLASS -  my '72 got
3rd in class and his '72 got first - Wagon Power!!!!  My '67 Delta got FIRST
IN CLASS, but she's special & always gets alot of attention.  

Sorry for the length & bragging - hope the other post doesnt come back from
Never Never Land and bore you all.....

Who says guys have all the cool cars?? -
Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 & '72 Vista Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/lisa.htm


                   \\\\\\|/////
                    \\ - - //
                    ( 0 0 )
      ----oooO--(_)--Oooo---


          .oooO
             (   )    Oooo.
       ----- \  (----(   )--------
               \_)    )  /
                      (_/   
           Hang in there!!

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:00:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc. Delta ?

On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:
> Get some light gauge wire (like chicken wire), wrap it around the hose at 
> the fitting about three times.  Twist the two ends together until tight 
> then cut the excess wire off.  1 ea. no frills, extremely adjustable, low 
> pressure hose clamp.

I suppose a black twist-tie (like they use for packing power cords in 
electronics) might work equally well, and maybe be even more 
inconspicuous... or for a more permanent fix, maybe a dab of black 
weatherstrip adhesive?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:59:19 -0300
Subject: Loose Vacuum Hose 

Mike,
That's a great fix. I just cut about 1/3" off each time to tighten things
up. 'Course once you've done that about ten times, you have a *real* 
short hose....
cf

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:13:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Members form 

>A great job!  The form looks good to me, but what do I know.  Some Oldsmobile
>wall paper might be nice.

     "MeeeTooo!!"

    I might suggest the "Clubs" box be opened to include special talents or
certifications or other misc. data that doesn't quite pertain to hobbies.
(At least that's how I filled it out, anyway, and it seemed to logical to
me...)  Maybe a box for employments?  (maybe...)  Possibly a scrollable box
for phone #, also (I've got two phone #'s.  Some ideas.  What's everyone
else think?

     The Olds wallpaper would liven it up a lot, too.  I like that idea.  

     How about links at the bottom to subscribe to this list, and point to
Bryce's page, and other pertinant Olds pages as they appear, and an
explanation at the top explaining the reasoning for the page.  This way when
~surfers~ crash upon the sight by accident, they can have an idea what the
page is for, and not waste server space by adding their address when all
they own is a Pacer, mountain bike, and a laptop...
     Just thoughts...  Great so far, though...

    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:13:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc. Delta ? 

>> My vacuum hose falls off of the cannister at regular intervals.  Just
>> because the hose is old and stretched too wide to stay on.  I have to 
>> get out and put it back on about once every six weeks and then make a 
>> mental note to replace the hose when I get time...I've been doing this 
>> since about 1993.
>Cheap trick:
>Get some light gauge wire (like chicken wire), wrap it around the hose at 
>the fitting about three times.  Twist the two ends together until tight 
>then cut the excess wire off.  1 ea. no frills, extremely adjustable, low 
>pressure hose clamp.

  ****   Even cheaper (if there is enough hose available, and it's not a
"special" end) just slice off that last 3/4" or so and presto! new hose.
The end is usually all that stretches out.  
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:43:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Loose Vacuum Hose

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> once you've done that about ten times, you have a *real* short hose...

Yeah.  I hate that.   ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:59:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Members form

buehner wrote:
> 
> How about links at the bottom to subscribe to this list, and point to
> Bryce's page, and other pertinant Olds pages as they appear, and an
> explanation at the top explaining the reasoning for the page.

You might want to peak at http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html to 
see how we handled that stuff.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:59:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Members form

buehner wrote:
> 
> How about links at the bottom to subscribe to this list, and point to
> Bryce's page, and other pertinant Olds pages as they appear, and an
> explanation at the top explaining the reasoning for the page.

You might want to peak at http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html to 
see how we handled that stuff.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 19:50:13 -0300
Subject: Odd Equipment 

As all of you know, my chapter (Blue/Gray) of OCA had their annual fall show
this past week.  I didn't see any of you there, SHAME!!!  Anyway, we had a
fellow come and show his '53 Super 88 Holiday Coupe.  He just had it restored
this summer and he must have spent some money because it was nice.  It was
painted Agate Red with a Polar White roof and the interior was white leather
bolsters with BLUE cloth inserts!  I couldn't beleive this guy screwed up
this car that he had done up so nicely.  When I got home I checked the data
plate codes and it came from the factory that way!  I know that you could get
anything you wanted from the factory back then, but this is the first time I
have seen anything like that survive.  I had talked to the owner at the show
and he told me it was factory, but I double checked it anyway.  And he should
know if its factory, 'cause he and his wife bought that car in October of
1954!  But it doesn't stop there.  This car is a factory stick!  And it has
power steering and a Wonderbar radio!  How's that for odd.  He said he has a
'53 Ninety Eight parts car at home that has factory A/C.  I know what I'd
do...

Related to this, I have relatives that purchased an Agate Red '53 Super 88
DeLuxe convertible (one of 803) when it was new.  DeLuxe meant that it was
equipped with hydraulic power windows and a hydraulic power seat, as well as
a power top.  This car was also equipped with Hydra-Matic Drive and power
brakes, but no power steering!  The wife bought this one off the showroom
floor, the husband didn't know she did it until they delivered it to the
house (they used to do that, you know!).  He hated it, said it drove like a
truck.  She wouldn't drive it 'cause she couldn't steer it!  It just sat
until '56 when they traded it for a pink Sedan DeVille.  Wish I knew where it
was today... VIN #538W9865 just in case anyone ever sees it!

Paul
 

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:36:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again)

Howard H wrote:
> 
>. I was told
> to remove screws on rear shield of the wheel well and just bend or pull it
> away to access the antenna motor. After removing screws that shield would
> not separate from the underbody without what I felt might be permanent
> disfiguration. Does any one have any solutions, ideas or instructions to
> replace that lead and/or mast? Am I correct in my assumption on what broke?

I am not sure what broke but on my 84 cutlass the radio dad been stolen 
prior to my buying it and the wire to the power antenna had been riped 
out. I replaced it with a regular antenna. You do have to remove the 
screws from the shield> I also removed the two bolts on the bottom of the 
fender and the other that you see when you open the door. This allows 
just enough room to get your hand in(still tight though) good luck!

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:44:18 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

Robert J. Barry wrote:
> 
> At 10:03 AM 9/17/96 -0400, you wrote:
> >> Huh, the laws must be different in Ohio; around here, you can't _get_ a 
title
> [snip]
> >Just for the record on how it's done in MA:
> >Here in NH you can get a 20 day temp plate or a regular plate. If you go 
for the temp one you can only do it once in the same name. On the 
perminate plate you have 10 days to get it inspacted. (really the same 
with the temp one but rarely ck up on it). There is a annual inspection 
in your birth month. Most areas of NH don't have emmissions checks as 
yet. Only some counties. Any car over 10 years old can be registered with 
only a bill of sale. No title is required. In fact you don't even need a 
bill of sale from the last registered owner, anyone can write you one.

------------------------------

From: schultz_assoc@usa.pipeline.com (Roger T. Schultz)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:40:25 -0300
Subject: Door Mechanism

Help!  I have a '72 442 W25 convertible (fairly rare car) that I've owned
since new.  I drive it every day and it's still going strong after 24 years
and 192,000 miles  (no salt on California roads). 
 
The one problem I have is the driver's side door look mechanism.  The
inside door handle mates with a splined shaft mounted to a bracket secured
by three bolts.  As the mechanism has worn over time, the spring assembly
has worn and it now takes up almost the complete handle throw to compress
the spring, even before the lock mechanism can begin to unlatch.  It gets
really tiresome reaching through the window to use the outside door handle,
particularly in the rain!  I've tried junkyard replacements, but they are
in little better shape than my original.  Does anyone know of a source for
a NOS part or someone who can repair mine?  Natch, the part will not
interchange with the, you should pardon the expression, Chevy or Pontiac
parts as they use a shorter splined shaft due to a different (cheaper)
inside door handle arrangement. 
 
Nick Davis 
schultz_assoc@usa.pipeline.com 
415/999-0431 
fax:  415/966-1245 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:40:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again) 

     Welcome to the world of broken G-body power antennas!  It's a very 
     common problem.  My '84 H/O has the same thing.  The antenna can be 
     moved up or down manually but you can hear the motor whirr trying to 
     move it.  There's a link inside that pushes the antenna up and down.
     
     Before you proceed I would highly recommend visiting the Buick Turbo 
     Regal/GN web site.  I don't have the address with me, but I can get it 
     to you in a few days if you like.  A web search should turn it up.  
     Their power antenna is identical to ours and they have the same 
     problem.  Under the technical archives are complete instructions for 
     removing the antenna, as well as the part number for the repair kit 
     from GM.  The kit is something like $15.  Your other option is a new 
     antenna for $120.  If you don't have web access I can e-mail you the 
     instructions with the repair kit part number in a few days.
     
     I have the parts to fix mine, I just haven't got a round 'tuit yet.  
     If I remember right (printouts are at home, I'm on a business trip 
     right now) you remove the ring from around the top of the antenna, 
     remove the philips screw from the door jamb and remove the bottom few 
     bolts around the fender.  The bottom of the fender can then be pulled 
     out a bit and propped open with a 2x4 to allow the antenna to fall 
     out.  Then take the antenna apart and install the GM repair kit, which 
     involves drilling out some rivets to get the assembly open.  Reinstall 
     by dropping a wire (coat hanger, etc) down the hole and attaching to 
     the unit to hoist it back up.
     
     Sounds like tons-o-fun for the whole family.  Which is why I haven't 
     done mine yet.  Maybe it'll make a good winter project one weekend.
     
     Good luck!  e-mail me if you would like copies of the text from the 
     Buick site regarding this.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Antennas (again)
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/18/96 8:19 PM


The antenna Stuck in the raised position on my '84 Hurst. When I turned the 
radio off the motor continued to run, but no movement in the mast. I 
disconnected the plug to the motor to prevent it from burning out. I assume 
the lead that spools up in the the motor has broken. It's located in the 
right fender. I've tried to get to it but have been unsuccesful. I was told 
to remove screws on rear shield of the wheel well and just bend or pull it 
away to access the antenna motor. After removing screws that shield would 
not separate from the underbody without what I felt might be permanent 
disfiguration. Does any one have any solutions, ideas or instructions to 
replace that lead and/or mast? Am I correct in my assumption on what broke? 
Thanks for the help!
     
Howard Hosenbold
     
     

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:06:37 -0300
Subject: Gluing your stuff...was Re: silicone on metal

> Peg O'Connor wrote:
> > 
> > > Elmer's glue might be fine until it dries, then how do you get it off?
> > 
> > Same way you got it off your hands in kindergarten.  Didn't anyone here
> > ever put Elmer's Glue on their hands, wait until it dried, and then peel
> > it off in front of people, yelling, "Look!  My skin's coming off!"
> > 
> > 8)
> > peg
> 

	Say, that gives me an idea...how about using rubber cement?  (Yea,
I used to do the "Check it out!  I'm peeling my skin off!) thing with that
too.  Seems like it would work ok.  I've also heard of "liquid masking
tape" used for model kits.  Could probibly be found in most hobby stores.  

	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: 455@clbs.k12.mn.us (Timothy P. Urban)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:46:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Q- Jet Carbs 

I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme with a missing U shaped trim piece from the
driver's side front grille.

Any suggestions on the best source for one or a pair?

Please respond also via my e-mail address.

Thanks!

Tim Urban

Timothy P. Urban
Technology Coordinator
urban@clbs.k12.mn.us
(218) 335-2203

http://www.clbs.k12.mn.us/urban/urban.html
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:30:19 -0300
Subject: Catalytic Converter...was Re: Exhaust nomenclature:

> Joe,
> I think the ring you're talking about is called a "donut". By the way, 
what's a 
> catalytic convertor?


	Did anybody else already ansewer this one?  Well, if you did, I
missed it, and this is just a repeat of what someone else already said.
Either way, a catalytic converter (or simply cat) is one of the more
important (if not *the*) most important componant in the cars' emissions
system.  What it is, is a metal "can" (sort of looks like a loaf of french
bread) hooked to the exhaust system up near the front of the car.

	What they do is convert unburned hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide,
and NOX into less harmful CO2 and water.  They have mesh screen or
honeycomb structure inside coated with some sort of fancy metal (platinum
is one of them, if I'm not mistaken).  The hot exhaust gases enter the
honeycomb, and the metals iniatiate a chemical reaction that converts the
bad stuff to a slightly less bad stuff.  There is usually also an air pump
on the engine that pumps fresh air into the converter to make the reaction
more efficiant.  

	They usually operate somewhere between 900 and 1600 degrees F to
keep the reaction going, so the outside can get quite hot (my dad almost
started a grass fire in some tall grass with his S-10 Blazer once!).  That
high operating temp is also one of the reasons your cars' emissions are
highest when it's cold-- the thing just dosn't work at low temps (that,
and a cold engine isn't as efficient as a warm one).

	On a side note, most states have really strict laws about removing
a cat and replacing it with a "test pipe" (Montana isn't one of them :).
But, if you're going for max performance and still need to be emissions
legal, there are several aftermarket places that build high-perf, high
flow converters (I think Accel, Dynomax, and Thrush make them...don't know
if they make any for Olds though...)

	Anyway, if this seems a little long, sorry but once I get going,
it's hard to stop.  Kind of like my Olds--it's in desparate need of a
brake job!!  


				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:25:38 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

At 02:25 PM 9/19/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>	i've been on the list for about a week and just finished deleting 
about 
>450 messages from all of you from the past week.  as you can see i don't 
>check my e-mail all that often.

What are you doing, studying? ;)

>    so far it's been great, there's tons of great information betweeen 
>all of you.
>	i've noticed not too many people have mid 80's olds.  i hope that 
>i'm not alone in this group.  i have owned a 85 cutlass supreme for the 

Nope, quite a few of them here; they just don't have as many problems as the
owners of older Olds' (except for frames and bumpers rusting out, of course)

[snip]
>	i am a senior attending bryant college in R.I. but my hometown is 

Finally another Rhode Islander! (if only temporary) I teach just down the
road from you up there. Maybe we could get a New England lunch together for
the people within the CT/RI/MA/NH orbit; perhaps Framingham or Foxboro or
something like that (maybe Providence!).

>Bill Reilly
>1985 Cutlass Supreme
>wreilly@acad.bryant.edu
>
> P.s.    anyone planning on going to the rallye 350 meet at englishtown 
>nj in october???

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:36:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Hot Radio...was Re: Def. of Convector 

> > Boy, thats the truth!  The Wonderbar in my '60 uses a tube amplifier, 
> > and that thing gets just about warm enough to cook eggs on the thing.  
> 
> Word to the wise:  Buy up any spare tubes you 
> find if you want to keep the thing running.
> 

	I'll keep an eye out, but I'll never know what type of tube I need
until I get my radio apart.  Oh well, guess it can't hurt to have some
spares around.

	Also, I posted about this a while ago, but no one responded so
I'll ask again--

	My generator has a condensor on the side of it (yes, just like one
for an ignition system) that goes to one of the terminals.  Anybody have
an idea which one?  (Field coil or armature?)  Or, does anybody have an
idea why it's there?  It looks factory, and there is a hole drilled and
tapped into the body that it's screwed to (and another gen I have has the
same hole).  Any ideas?


				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:39:39 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars 

>Here in NH you can get a 20 day temp plate or a regular plate. If you go 
>for the temp one you can only do it once in the same name. On the 
>perminate plate you have 10 days to get it inspacted. (really the same 
>with the temp one but rarely ck up on it). There is a annual inspection 
>in your birth month. Most areas of NH don't have emmissions checks as 
>yet. Only some counties. Any car over 10 years old can be registered with 
>only a bill of sale. No title is required. In fact you don't even need a 
>bill of sale from the last registered owner, anyone can write you one.

That's how I got my '72 Cutlass Cruiser 5 yrs ago.  It was my step brother's 
and was kept at my house.  So I bought it for $1 with a handwritten bill of 
sale from my step father.  However, insofar as inspection goes, my car got 
shut down with exterior rust that put holes in the car.  So I went back to 
the place after putting some aluminum tape in the offending areas and am now 
registerd for another year.  I heard that NH classic car plates no longer have 
the mileage restriction on them.  I'm going to check in this next year when I 
reregister the vehicle. 

Coincidence ->  Oldsmobile's 100th and a '72 vehicle's classic (25th)?

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:17:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Those numbers... 

In a message dated 96-09-19 11:06:42 EDT, you write:

>   If anyone is interested in decoding the rest and/or 
>  helping me determine if this car is real,

How 'bout posting the data plate numbers from the firewall.  That'll tell us
right away if its a real 442 or not.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:17:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 73-77 8-track Q's. 

In a message dated 96-09-19 11:41:28 EDT, you write:

> What's the procedure say?

I knew somebody was gonna ask this.  Shoulda posted it last night.  This is
from the '77 shop manual since that is what started all of this.  Here we go:

STEREO TAPE PLAYER CONVECTOR
If radio is to be removed for repairs, test the convector, approved radio
repair stations do not need the convector to repair the radio if the
convector is good.  If the convector is bad and only the radio is repaired,
the convector will cause the radio to go bad again.

TEST CONVECTOR
1. Remove convector harness plug from rear of radio.
2. Connect 12 volt test light to 12 volt source.
3. Connect jumper wire to good ground, touch test lamp probe to jumper to
test connections.  Test light should light.

Test lamp should be off in both of the following tests.
4. Touch test light probe to blue wire; jumper to yellow wire.
5. Touch test light probe to blue/white stripe wire; jumper to yellow/white
stripe wire
6. If test light lights in either of the above tests, remove the convector
for repair.  If the test light is off in both tests, it will not be necessary
to send the convector with the radio for repair.

So whatcha think?

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:17:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Die Cast Models 

In a message dated 96-09-19 11:19:01 EDT, you write:

> Johnny Lightning series.  This is also part of their Indy 500
>  >Championship Collection featuring limited edition pace cars.  There are
two
>  >cars per package: the pace car and race winner.  The olds looks pretty 
> realistic
>  >except that mine is in lime green 

Went to Toys R Us today and they have series #2 on the shelves.  The '70 is
green like he says, the '74 is like a Pinto Grabber Blue, and the '77 is
white and black.  When can we expect series #3?  Also picked up a black
Custom Toronado from their "Challengers" series.  Thought I found a pearl
white one too (they're supposed to be hard to get), but it turned out to be a
Lincoln Continental.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:44:05 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction

Barnacle Bill wrote:
> 
>         i've been on the list for about a week and just finished deleting 
about
> 450 messages from all of you from the past week.  
>     so far it's been great, there's tons of great information betweeen
> all of you.
>         i've noticed not too many people have mid 80's olds.  i hope that
> i'm not alone in this group.  i have owned a 85 cutlass supreme for the
> past 2 years.  
>         i am a senior attending bryant college in R.I. but my hometown is
> in northern Jersey.  i do hope to do some work to it after i graduate,
> although i haven't exactly made up my mind on what i want to do with it.
> 
> happy oldsmobiling
> 
> Bill Reilly

> 
> Bill,

It sounds like you enjoy your car.  There are many 80's Cutlasses here. 
 Those of us w/o one have a certain envy of those with.  Welcome, you'll 
feel right at home.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:52:02 -0300
Subject: Antenna repair 

At 11:25 09/19/1996 +0000 Katana wrote:

>If you can't get to the antenna via the plastic shield, you could try
>removing the fender. The same happened on my 79 cutlass wagon and it was the
>drive (loop?) that was broken. It's fairly cheap to repair ( replacing the
>drive shaft), but can be a pain in the a** to remove and replace the antenna.
>There are two things inside the antenna housing other than the motor, a gear
>which rotates and pushes the extension unit up or down and the nylon drive
>shaft which is connected to the very top of the antenna. The drive shaft is
>what normally breaks. It should be available from your local GM dealer for
>approx $25.00 Good Luck,
>
>Katana72    It's NOT your father's Oldsmobile!!!!!!!!        Hastimgs, MN
>

Hello there, Could you tell me how you got the motor open to repair the
nylon shaft? I opened the side that houses the armature,but cant figure out
how to open the side with the gears. This is on a '68 C/S power antenna. Any
help you could give me would be great.Thanks....

Brad '68 C/S Convt with no sounds :(

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:06:31 -0300
Subject: steering column swap question 

              I'm thinking about swaping steering columns between my `72
Vista-Cruiser and a `77 Ch*vy Malibu.  The Malibu column is free and it has
a starter switch that works much better than mine.  It would also be
somewhat of an upgrade since it's a tilt steering column.  Just by
eyeballing the column the swap looks like a bolt in.  Does anyone know for
sure if it would work?  I'd like to attatch the Olds gearshift to the Ch*vy
column if I can make the swap work.  Anyone got any idea how to remove a
column shift gearshift lever?  

The problem with the Olds steering column is that the "start" position
doesn't work so well.  I've installed an overide switch temporarily to start
the car until I get the key fixed.  Anyone know how to get to the switch?  I
also have a problem with the little chrome thigamajig that the key fits into
and twists with the key when it's turned.(sorry, I don't know the name of it
and that's about as technical I can get)  Anyway, it fell   off.  Anyone
ever had this problem?    Why do I allways get hit with the wierd problems?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Greg Pruett 
`72 Vista Cruiser 




Insert philosophical and/or amusing phrase here-----------

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:59:20 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction

At 00:25 09/20/1996 +0000, you wrote:


>>	i am a senior attending bryant college in R.I. but my hometown is 
>
>Finally another Rhode Islander! (if only temporary) I teach just down the
>road from you up there. Maybe we could get a New England lunch together for
>the people within the CT/RI/MA/NH orbit; perhaps Framingham or Foxboro or
>something like that (maybe Providence!).

>- Bob Barry
>- 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
>- 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

Hey Bob,
 
 Brad here,from CT.I travel up to Boston about once a week and would be in
for a New England Olds Owners Lunch. Lets see if we can get together before
those guys out in Chicago and show them where the REAL Olds men live!!!
Anyone else in the New England area interested???

Brad '68 C/S Convertible (REAL men don't need a top!!!)

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:50:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass Patch panels 

At 10:52 PM 9/18/96 -0300, Brad wrote:

> The place that I found is in Middlefield CT. USA. The name is Auto Body
>Specialties. They have patch panels for my '68 as well as other years.They
>also have patch panels for '76-77 but they are special order= not
>stocked.Available in about two weks for $42.50. Their phone number is
>860-346-4989. There is another place in Cromwell CT. called Auto Body
>Suppliers. Their phone number is 860.346.6000. The guy there said they have
>front patch panels "for about $40". You can also get rear quarter patches
>for around $150 plus $50 S/H. Hope this helps you.
> 
>Brad  '68 C/S Convt

OK, my curiosity's up.  Are these patch panels for around the window areas?
I need something for my rear window of my Delta and have made do with a
thick goop of silicone caulk.  'Splain, Lucy.



Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:30:43 -0300
Subject: Loop Test

- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 00:33:39 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

>Anyone else in the New England area interested???

I'm up in Beverly, Ma., so what why not.

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:00:05 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

>Barnacle Bill wrote:

          Hey, is that Barnacle Bill the Sailor???

    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Mark Bethke Jr." <mbethke@btigate.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:03:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Antennas (again)

I had what sounds like the same problem. I cleaned and oiled mine, and with
a little bending here and there it works like new again. I would try this,
before you take on the major task of swapping in a new one.

Mark Bethke Jr.
77 Olds Tornado (Wish I had a big block ;)_  )

- ----------
From: Howard H <howardh@sundial.sundial.net>
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: Antennas (again)
Date: Wednesday, September 18, 1996 10:04 PM

The antenna Stuck in the raised position on my '84 Hurst. When I turned the
radio off the motor continued to run, but no movement in the mast. I
disconnected the plug to the motor to prevent it from burning out. I assume
the lead that spools up in the the motor has broken. It's located in the
right fender. I've tried to get to it but have been unsuccesful. I was told
to remove screws on rear shield of the wheel well and just bend or pull it
away to access the antenna motor. After removing screws that shield would
not separate from the underbody without what I felt might be permanent
disfiguration. Does any one have any solutions, ideas or instructions to
replace that lead and/or mast? Am I correct in my assumption on what broke?
Thanks for the help!
 
Howard Hosenbold

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:11:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Catalytic Converter...was Re: Exhaust nomenclature:

The cat on my Z/28 is "free-flowing". It is amazing what a metal broom
handle does when shoved through  a convertor. My car has had two emissions
tests now and it passed the emissons well within limit. Keep in mind my
engine is an 82 and my car is an 88. The 82 engine with the "free-flowing"
cat had to pass 88 emissons standards here in Ohio...did it beautifuly. What
is ironic is that my 80 442 with a fully intact cat had higher NOx than my
free flowing cat on the Z/28. 
>
>	On a side note, most states have really strict laws about removing
>a cat and replacing it with a "test pipe" (Montana isn't one of them :).
>But, if you're going for max performance and still need to be emissions
>legal, there are several aftermarket places that build high-perf, high
>flow converters (I think Accel, Dynomax, and Thrush make them...don't know
>if they make any for Olds though...)
>
>	Anyway, if this seems a little long, sorry but once I get going,
>it's hard to stop.  Kind of like my Olds--it's in desparate need of a
>brake job!!  
>
>
>				Scott
>			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98
>
>
>
>
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
88 Iroc Z/28.......................daily driver
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.........show car
75 Hurst/Olds W-25........restoration project
74 Riviera Stage I 455...winter ride

------------------------------

From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:16:54 -0300
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars

>and was kept at my house.  So I bought it for $1 with a handwritten bill of 
>sale from my step father.  

In Ohio they are strating to crack down on people that buy newer cars for
$1. Alot of this goes on in the used car/salvage business. Case in point.
Two years ago my uncle got an 88 Vette out of our yard with minimal front
end damage. The sale price on the title was $1. Ohio wants that tax money
and you have to justify a cars value if it is too low to them. Big time
fines if you are caught.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com)
88 Iroc Z/28.......................daily driver
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.........show car
75 Hurst/Olds W-25........restoration project
74 Riviera Stage I 455...winter ride

------------------------------

From: HurstOlds <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:15:31 -0300
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:30:53 -0300
Subject: [none]

From:	SMTP%"oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca" 20-SEP-1996 00:24:53.39
To:	BORLASE
CC:	
Subj:	

Date:	Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:15:31 -0300
From:	HurstOlds <z28cfi@gwis.com>
To:	<oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Message-Id: <199609200415.AAA03136@gwis.com>
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca


That was pretty clever Jason P. Labay.

Roger Borlase
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 00:36:00 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Roland,

It's been a while but here goes nothing:

Entschuldigung bitte, aber mein Dutsch ist ein bisschen kalt.  Ebensogut, 
Ich glaube das du konnst mich verstehen.  Bitte, Ich muss mir sie du 
vorstellen.  Ich bin Jeff Zeilmann, und Ich habe zwei Oldsmobile.  Was ist 
los dort druben?  Ich denke das Oldsmobile ist  am besten auto.  Stimmst du 
mir zu? (sorry no umlauts on this keyboard)  Ich hatte deine geschichte 
gelesen.

<<I'd like to say I drive a 1956 Olds 88 2-dr Coupe, but there are engine
<<and tranny looking like new but still lying besides the car, but I'm a 
very
<<patient man, so some day the car will run.

Es geht nichts uber eine 1956 88 2-dr coupe!  Sehr schon!
Wie viele haben Sie mit das auto zu tuen?  Leider, Ich habe viele arbeit mit 
meinen autos.
Frage: Bist du in der nahe Der Schwartz Wald, oder Baden Baden?  Ich denke 
das, meinen Vorfahren ist von dort.  Einen tag Ich muss dort zuruckfuhren 
auf.

Spater!

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

ps. for all you who do not read german, all I said is: weathers nice here, 
Porsches are nice, but Oldsmobiles rule, and I'd like to order a pancake 
with  two eggs and cheese.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:53:07 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: barns, fields for cars 

     That's quite a bit different from what constitutes an "inspection" in 
     Washington State.  I bought my H/O from Idaho and had to put it 
     through inspection and emissions here to get a licence.  I was all set 
     for a big ordeal for the inspection, expecting them to look over every 
     inch of the car and have me demonstrate the lights, wipers, etc.
     
     I got in the line and the guy walks up with his clipboard, double 
     checks the VIN number in the window, asks me for the odometer reading, 
     then hands me the paperwork and off I went.  Gee, that was tough.
     
     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: barns, fields for cars
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    9/19/96 6:02 PM

     sale from my step father.  However, insofar as inspection goes, my car 
     got shut down with exterior rust that put holes in the car.  So I went 
     back to the place after putting some aluminum tape in the offending 
     areas and am now 

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:02:56 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

At 11:33 PM 9/19/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>Anyone else in the New England area interested???
>
>I'm up in Beverly, Ma., so what why not.

Boston would probably be a centrally-located spot for everybody, and is only
45-60 min. from Providence anyway.

My wife has some shindig to go to up in Boston on a Saturday in the next few
weeks (not sure of the exact date); perhaps we could all meet at Berjerick
(spelling *completely* off there!) Oldsmobile out in Newton Highlands
(Needham Street, exit 18 off Rt.128, I believe) late that morning at their
resto shop, and then get a bite at the "Big Grinder" sit-down place just
down the street (their sandwiches are utterly HUGE!).

I'll see when my S.O. is going to want to go up there, and perhaps call
B..... Olds to make sure that they'll be open that day.

Sound good to anybody?

Another option is to meet af Fusick's, though that is really about 4 miles
east of the middle of nowhere. There is a Dunkin' Donuts right there,
though, to meet at, where we can all order "regular" coffees and get them
the right way (with cream and sugar, of course).

BTW, are there any New England-based Olds clubs or shows? All I know about
are the ones at the Museum of Transportation in Brookline (usually good
quality shows, though).

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Landau Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:30:04 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction 

>weeks (not sure of the exact date); perhaps we could all meet at Berjerick
>(spelling *completely* off there!) Oldsmobile out in Newton Highlands
>(Needham Street, exit 18 off Rt.128, I believe) late that morning at their
>resto shop, and then get a bite at the "Big Grinder" sit-down place just
>down the street (their sandwiches are utterly HUGE!).

I was down that way a month ago and drove by an Olds dealer that had a 
gorgerous Olds Convertible.  Couldn't stop since I was on company time and was 
looking for lunch.  Anyway, this olds dealer was off exit 19a by "You Do It 
Electronics."   I also love how I-95 and 128 south are the same thing.

>Sound good to anybody?

Count me in.  Somebody bring a camera and I'll setup a web page on my school's 
server about it.  Fractional T1 coming soon.

>Another option is to meet af Fusick's, though that is really about 4 miles
>east of the middle of nowhere. There is a Dunkin' Donuts right there,

Where is Fusick's?  What about going to both places??

>BTW, are there any New England-based Olds clubs or shows? All I know about

There is a club in Danvers.  I'm not a member but the address is:

Eastern Mass GMO Chapter of the Oldsmobile Club of America
PO Box 424
Danver, MA 01923-2055

Dues are $15 first year, and $10/year after that.

Roger Borlase

------------------------------

From: Esko.Ilola@Tele.telebox.fi
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 03:55:22 -0300
Subject: Contact list comments

Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
The page is great.

Though it is missing something:

- - The page is missing a title. Something that tells me where I am.
  Text like "Oldsmobile list members" would be fine for those
  automatic wep search engines like Alta Vista.

- - The name field could be divided into three parts to separate
  surname and initials

- - Many of us have more than one phone. Addition of two more fields
  would be fine. Also, a field to state the time when reachable
  would spare you from incoming FAX calls at 02:00 AM.

- - A field for special skills (if anyone dares to fill it)

- - 

Then one stupid question which I hope to get a wise answer.

What is tripod in this context?
I have used one under my car and one under my still-video.

**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile 98  1964  4D HT                 *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 06:36:00 -0300
Subject: Olds w/ Bad Ignition switch

Boyd Parker  wrote:

>I need to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch on my '70
>442. I don't yet have a service manual, and I have only done this on the
>early (dashboard style) cars.

Greg Pruett wrote:

>The problem with the Olds steering column is that the "start" position
>doesn't work so well.  I've installed an overide switch temporarily to 
start
>the car until I get the key fixed.  Anyone know how to get to the switch?


 My '70 shop manual shows removal of the steering wheel and turn signal 
mechanism, followed by the insertion of a long thin screwdriver into the 
column to release the ignition switch.  Looks pretty straightforward.  If 
the two of you give me fax numbers I'll send you more detailed info from the 
good book.  Let me know if you have a regular or tilt column

Scott Mullen
'70 442
r_mullen@merck.com

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 06:58:00 -0300
Subject: Blank "Olds Owner" email

Has everybody gotten about 20 blank emails addressed to "Olds owner", or is 
it just me?  What gives?

------------------------------

From: o455 <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:25:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Is the list dead? (delete this right away)

Esko.Ilola@tele.telebox.fi wrote:
> 
> Item Subject: Sanoman teksti
> Just testing if the list was dead. Didn't see my message after 2 hours. 
I Havent Seen My Mesage In 4 Days, I Think NETSCAPE Is Going Goofy

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun23.draper.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:45:59 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction

> Finally another Rhode Islander!

It seems there's only a few New Englanders on the list, much less 
Roe Dilanders :)

> Maybe we could get a New England lunch together for
> the people within the CT/RI/MA/NH orbit; perhaps Framingham or Foxboro or
> something like that (maybe Providence!).

Framingham sounz good to me :)

Seriously, Framingham has a good place to meet -- Riley's Roast Beef, where
every Sat. Night they have a Cruz In type of deal... and Gawd knows they
need more Rocket Power to balance out the sea of Bow Ties one sees there! :)



Tim (A Framingham Native Son) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun23.draper.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:52:29 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction

> 
> Hey Bob,
>  
>  Brad here,from CT.I travel up to Boston about once a week and would be in
> for a New England Olds Owners Lunch. Lets see if we can get together before
> those guys out in Chicago and show them where the REAL Olds men live!!!
> Anyone else in the New England area interested???
> 
> Brad '68 C/S Convertible (REAL men don't need a top!!!)

Sounz like a plan to me!


Tim ("I Dunno What Color Top the Cutlass Had -- Never Put it Up!") Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
 

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun23.draper.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:04:41 -0300
Subject: Re: new member introduction

> 
> My wife has some shindig to go to up in Boston on a Saturday in the next few
> weeks (not sure of the exact date); perhaps we could all meet at Berjerick
> (spelling *completely* off there!) Oldsmobile out in Newton Highlands
> (Needham Street, exit 18 off Rt.128, I believe) late that morning at their
> resto shop, and then get a bite at the "Big Grinder" sit-down place just
> down the street (their sandwiches are utterly HUGE!).

It's Berejik, FWIW... and that grinder shop has awesome steak bombs
(used to work at GTE, right behind Berejik and the grinder place... *they*
never said much the few times I pulled up to see if their classic parts
dept. was open -- which it never was; I believe the hours wre something like
"Every third Tuesday in months containing an 'R', when the moon is in Virgo" :)

And its in the Needham Highlands.

> 
> I'll see when my S.O. is going to want to go up there, and perhaps call
> B..... Olds to make sure that they'll be open that day.
> 
> Sound good to anybody?

Just let us know which weekend, so as I can co-ordinate with my S.O... she
can follow in the Fleetwood with the twins -- they ain't old enough yet
for Big Red.  Its that top-down thing :)

 
> BTW, are there any New England-based Olds clubs or shows? All I know about
> are the ones at the Museum of Transportation in Brookline (usually good
> quality shows, though).

I haven't heard of any Olds-specific shows...  though I just read about
a Duryea show out in Chicopee, MA (the first American-made auto)




Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #306
********************************
 
