To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	10/10/96 02:24:55 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #326


oldsmobile-digest        Thursday, 10 October 1996     Volume 01 : Number 326


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: tonwald@metro2.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:13:01 -0300
Subject: Re: VH-1 Sacrilage

>From: Timothy A. Churchill
> >I came upon VH-1.  Just in time to see the distinctive taillights
>>of a '67 Cutlass Supreme!
>
>Tim,
>I saw the video around 12:00 yesterday while on lunch break from the salt
>mines. (That mental health/work on the car day sounds like a good idea....)
> Did you notice the oversize Shevy emblem that was on the left side of the
>decklid right next to the tail lights?  I was puzzling over what kind of car
>it was until I saw the holy Rocket emblem on the horn button.  My coworkers
>could not understand my outrage over the desecration on the decklid.
> Infidels!
>Scott Mullen
>'70 442


Scott:

Why are you guys so hung up on hating Chevies?   They are a sister division
of the Rocket......and make wonderful winter beaters!  Put your energy into
hating Fords and Mopars!

I am a Rocket man from the get-go and have been building and racing
Oldsmobiles for the last 25 years.  My second choice is always A Chevy. I
own a decent collection of Oldsies and I even have a couple of water crafts
powered by Olds.

Keep the General Motors family a happy a happy one and go kick a Ford!  Or
Mopar!

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 Toro W-34
65  Jetstar 88 Factory 4-spd!
85 Cutlass 455 Drag racer

------------------------------

From: Clay Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:31:34 -0300
Subject: RE: crossmember

Except mine are true duals-- comes through 2 mufflers-- no cats-- 
'74model motor and besides, I live in Tn-- no smog!!
I have 2 seperate pipes from the manifold all the way to the chrome tips.
If I'm not mistaken, the early '80's vintage H/O's have the setup you 
describe, along with the Monte Cr*pload SS.  Same idea I guess 
though.

>From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
>Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:38:42 -0300
>Subject: Re[2]: crossmember 
>
>This reminds me of when I looked at the exhaust on my friend's '96
>ch*vy 3500 4x4 pickup.  Huge 3" dual pipes off the exhaust manifolds,
>each to its own cat, then 1 or 2 feet to a huge muffler (about 8" high
>x12" wide x36" long).  Then dual outlets.  This is with the 350.  Sort
>of an interesting setup for dual exhaust.
>
>David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
>   Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
>               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
zcwp11@access.etsu-tn.edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. 66,000miles)
'80 Rover 3500 (215 EFI V8 85,000miles)
'72 Mercury Marquis Brougham (429 4bbl. 110,000miles)
- --
"It is in vain to hope to please all alike.  
 Let a man stand with his face in what direction he will, 
 he must necessarily turn his back on one half of the world."
     
               George Dennison Prentice

                -------***++***-------
                      
                    Clayton Pierce
 home page at: http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/
            zcwp11@access.east-tenn-st.edu
                    (423) 
638-2780                                                              
           
                -------***++***-------            

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:32:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello-rama 

At 12:01 PM 10/9/96 -0400, you wrote:
[snip]
>oil system set-up is right on the money.  Make sure you drill that little 
>hole in the back of the set screw in the lifter galley so the distributor 
>gear gets oil.  Don't re-use the Welch plug (think it's 27/32") that covers 
>up the set screw.  Get a new one.

Good advice. The 403 I just rebuilt had a hex-head galley plug without a
hole, but I was able to get a hold of one with the correct hole. If you,
like me, do not discover this *until* the pan is on the engine and all
sealed up, it is not difficult to remedy: Turn the engine upside down, and
knock the Welch plug through (it will fall out the distributor hole). You
can then remove the galley plug you have installed (if it is the 5/16"
square type, and you don't own a 5/16" square-drive bit, you can use some
5/16" keystock as a bit; the cheap socket set I keep in the car even had a
5/16" square-drive socket to go on that keystock) and drill it out with a
#60 drill. If yours already has a hole, but that hole is clogged up and the
wire that you have to fit in that hole is not stiff enough to clean it out
(hot-tanking may not do it; it's pretty small), you can also use a #60 bit
to clean it out.

>I had to do a LOT of grinding on Joe's full length widage tray to get all of 
>the clearances right.  Not too much on any one spot, but there are a whole 
>lot of spots that it was rubbing on.  Eventually I had to slot it in a few 
>spots for rod bolt clearances.

Hmmm, I didn't have to grind mine; I just dimpled it with a ball-peen hammer
(the ball end) over a vise opened about an inch. I first installed it to see
where the clearance problems were, then dimpled it where the rod bolts
started to scrape. The tray is very soft and easy to form; in fact, it's not
all that sophisticated a piece of metal at all. Heck, if you have a spot
welder you could duplicate the tray for about $5 (or have your kid in
junior-high do so in his or her shop class...).

>One last thing.... I put a .050 shim in my Mondello HV pump to get the 
>pressure up.  (Double check with Joe on recommended shim size).  As is, it 
>gave me (hot) 25 psi idle and about 45 psi max.  After 5 years, a tear down 
>revealed that my bearings were a little tired.  I caught it in time, with no 
>damage to the crank.  I put a small washer in the cup.  Now I get (hot) 40 
>psi idle and 65 psi at speed.  This is with Joe's recommended 20W-50 

Hmm, I get a hot 35 psi idle/55 psi at highway speed with no shim on my
"white-box" hv oil pump, running 10W-40. As soon as I get above idle,
though, the psi goes right above 45 psi. What is the recommended pressure
for street use (<5000 rpm)?

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:32:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet 

At 01:23 PM 10/9/96 -0400, you wrote:
>     
>          Well, some of us in the Chicago area got together on Sunday.  I 
>     will not spend too much time re-stating how much fun it was, as the 
>     other guys have done a great job at this already.  
>          Did you guys in Boston get together?  You were ragging us about 
>     how you would beat us to the punch.  We had a total of 8 guys, 2 
>     spouses, and a number of kids.  If you met, how did you fare?

As Roger mentioned, we beat you to the punch by a week and a day. Maybe you
had a bigger punch, since you had about 7 Olds' there. For the record, we
only had one '72 Cutlass there; I guess all the rest are out in Chicago...

When do others want to get together for another Boston/New England meeting?
Maybe next time we could meet at Fusick's? Nice drive out there at this time
of the year, and an excellent excuse to spend money we don't have!

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:09:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Rallye 350 show... 

>> Where is englishtown Raceway located? 
>Dunno.  Who's buried in Grant's Tomb?   ;)

Now, now, people. You can start by telling us where the Indianapolis
Motor Speedway is.

Nope! Try again...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Clay Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:58:19 -0300
Subject: warm starting problem

I'm sorry if you recieve this twice, but my new e-mail program just 
gave me half a dozen error messages, so I figured I should send it 
again.

I've been continuing to have a problem that I had before the engine
swap that I've done.  I've got an '84 Cutlass Supreme with a 350 4bbl.
in it.  It will not start easily warm.  First thing in the morning, it
starts fine-- right away.  When I've left it sitting for a couple of
days at a time-- punch the gas once and it starts right up.  But after
I've just driven the car, and cut it off, it won't start, its as if it
is flooded, and will start if I floor the gas pedal.  After several 
hours (3 or 5) it'll crank right up.  The carb is stock, and original on 
this motor.   Both motor and carb have 66,000miles on them (and 
granted, 22 years).  Do you think that it might be time for a carb 
rebuild already?  I don't have any excperience in carb rebuilding (and 
I've heard that q-jets are overly complex buggers) so if this is the case,
it will cost me money.  The timing "seems" to be all right.  What was 
the factory dwell setting for this motor?  It is a '74 350 4bbl "K" in 
VIN #. I have done no mods or rebuild to the motor.

Thanks,
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@access.etsu-tn.edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. 66,000miles)
'80 Rover 3500 (215 EFI V8 85,000miles)
'72 Mercury Marquis Brougham (429 4bbl. 110,000miles)
- --
"It is in vain to hope to please all alike.  
 Let a man stand with his face in what direction he will, 
 he must necessarily turn his back on one half of the world."
     
                  George Dennison Prentice

                   -------***++***-------
                      
                       Clayton Pierce
                 zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
                                                                                  
frames only homepage at: http://www.GeoCities.com/Athens/4468
 no frames homepage at: http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/           

                   -------***++***-------                               

------------------------------

From: Clay Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:53:49 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #324

I've been continuing to have a problem that I had before the engine
swap that I've done.  I've got an '84 Cutlass Supreme with a 350 4bbl.
in it.  It will not start easily warm.  First thing in the morning, it
starts fine-- right away.  When I've left it sitting for a couple of
days at a time-- punch the gas once and it starts right up.  But after
I've just driven the car, and cut it off, it won't start, its as if it
is flooded, and will start if I floor the gas pedal.  The carb is
stock, and original on this motor.   Both motor and carb have 66,000
miles on them (and granted, 22 years).  Do you think that it might be
time for a carb rebuild already?  I don't have any excperience in carb
rebuilding (and I've heard that q-jets are overly complex buggers) so
if this is the case, it will cost me money.  The timing "seems" to be
all right.  What was the factory dwell setting for this motor?  It is
a '74 350 4bbl "K" in VIN #. I have done no mods or rebuild to the
motor.

Thanks,
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@access.etsu-tn.edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. 66,000miles)
'80 Rover 3500 (215 EFI V8 85,000miles)
'72 Mercury Marquis Brougham (429 4bbl. 110,000miles)
- --
"It is in vain to hope to please all alike.  
 Let a man stand with his face in what direction he will, 
 he must necessarily turn his back on one half of the world."
     
                  George Dennison Prentice

                   -------***++***-------
                      
                       Clayton Pierce
                 zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
                                                                                  
frames only homepage at: http://www.GeoCities.com/Athens/4468
 no frames homepage at: http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/           

                   -------***++***-------                               

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:45:29 -0300
Subject: Welcome Paul 

Paul, 
You sound just like the rest of us, I've only been on the last few 
months (and have ahd my 98 conv. for 15 years), picked up lots & lots
of neat information on many topics. Welcome aboard. That 71 W30 sounds
like a great machine. 
cf

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:38:41 -0300
Subject: Grant's Tomb 

Grant and his wife...  ;)
cf

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:38:04 -0300
Subject: Proportioning Valves 

Paul,
Saw your thread, I put my valve under the driver footwell bolted to
the frame tapping into the rear brake line. There was a good article
on adjusting these valves in a hot rod magazine or car craft about
 a year ago. As I recall (please look this up...), the basic idea was
finding some wide open space getting the car to about 40mph then slamming
on the brakes and adjusting the valve in steps until the rears locked up 
before the fronts. I could be off by a mile on this, though. 
Anybody else remember what HRM or CC issue that was? I seem to recall
another article on this topic or related (like disc swap) in the same 
issue if that helps.
cf

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:02:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds hp ratings/Mondello Valve Train

Mike,
It was a while back that I bought it.  Think it was $300 for the initial 
all-inclusive package.  I had two of the rocker arms bind up due to over 
lashing (push rods too short).  This resulted in a dramatic failure during a 
thrash session.  Drove it home on 7 cylinders. Took about 30 minutes with 
vise grip pliers to extract the two mangled pushrods.  I relieved all of the 
rocker slots to allow for extra cam lift.  So, I bought another set of 0.1" 
longer pushrods (plus 2 spare ones), two new guide plates (plus 2 spare 
ones), two studs(plus two spare ones...see a pattern emerging here?) and 
half a dozen spare guide plate nylon liners.  All the extra parts were about 
$150.  No machining required to the heads.  You get 3/8" studs that are 
5/16" on the head side, so they screw right in.  Next time I have my heads 
off, I'll drill them for regular 3/8" studs.  Never had a stud failure, even 
thought the pushrods were DESTROYED, but I would like to be able to get 
spare studs locally.  If you buy this set up, get extras of all the parts so 
that a failure won't strand you.  You ain't gonna find what you need at the 
local parts store.  I waited 3 weeks for the pushrods from Mondello.  Very 
nicely made, custom I bet, but three weeks is a long time to be denied 
mind-numbing torque!
So.... cost about $450, figure $350 if you do better than I did on choosing 
pushrod length.
 ----------
From: Mike Frederick
To: mullenrs; oldsmobile
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings
Date: Wednesday, October 09, 1996 11:30AM


R Mullen wrote:
>
> I am starting my fifth year using Uncle Joe's SAR 455 adjustable roller
> tip rocker arm system.

Hey, Scott:

What did that end up costing you to put in.  Start to finish?

The 66 Toro and Mike

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:03:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings

Darren,
You done good.  I think those roller tips really help forgive valve train 
geometry errors.  I have put about 25K miles on my guides/valves with those 
rockers, and I have no detectable guide/valve wear, and the valve tips are 
still like new.  As my letter to Mike details, adjustable valve trains are 
not my forte.
Scott Mullen
Stock (well, mebbe not quite......) '70 442
 ----------
From: Darren Shroeger
To: mullenrs; oldsmobile
Subject: Re: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings
Date: Wednesday, October 09, 1996 12:27PM


> R Mullen wrote:
> >
> > I am starting my fifth year using Uncle Joe's SAR 455 adjustable roller
> > tip rocker arm system.
>
> Hey, Scott:
>
> What did that end up costing you to put in.  Start to finish?
>
> The 66 Toro and Mike
>

Mike,

I just ordered some last night from Joe himself. $359 for the set.
JM claims it'll clear stock RAcovers (We'll see about my notched ones).

May have to go with extra thick gaskets and no baffles as Scott mentioned.
According to JM, the roller set is the best way to make a stout cam (I went
with the JM22-25-10) work.

Coulda did adjustable pushrods instead at $150/set, or adjustable RA pivots
at $100. I figured, why skimp? If I'm doing it, mitaswell do it *right*...




 -Darren Shroeger
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:01:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Proportioning Valves 

>If total originality is not an issue, don't kill yourself trying to find an
>original valve which may or may not be correct, or work properly for that
>matter.  Particliarly if you are using custom wheels, tires or modified
>suspension.  All these things can change the "balance" between front and 
>rear braking requirements.
  
>There are several sources of adjustable proportioning valves.  Install one
>of those and you can adjust the front/rear brake bias to match the demands of
>your car.

Well, FYI, there are three different types of valves used in braking
systems, and each performs a distinctly different function.  

   A _metering valve_ is used on most vehicles with front disc and rear drum
brakes.  It delays the application of the front brakes until the rear drums
have overcome the tension of the return springs, preventing front wheel
skid.  As the brakes are applied and pressure starts to build, the metering
valve stem enters a sealed position (at about 4 psi), and does not allow any
pressure to reach the front brakes.  As the hydraulic pressure builds above
100 psi, it will gradually overcome the valve stem seal, and allow the front
brakes to be applied.  If it fails, the front brakes will appear to lock up
in initial braking, then braking will return to normal.

   A _proportioning valve_ is used to help balance the front and rear brakes
during braking.  As the vehicle stops and more of the weight transfers to
the front, the rear wheels become prone to skidding.  This valve works in a
similar manner to the metering valve, but instead of a complete shutoff of
one brake system, it allows brake fluid to flow to all wheels.  As braking
pressure increases, it moves a valve which reduces the size of the opening
to the rear brakes, thus reducing the pressure to them.  This prevents the
rear tires from skidding.  If this valve fails, rear wheel skidding will
usually occur under hard braking conditions.

   A _pressure differential valve_ operates a warning light on the dash that
indicates low hydraulic pressure in one of the brake systems (front brakes
or rear brakes).  It is also called a brake failure warning light switch
(duh!).  It consists of a valve body, a piston, two centering springs, and a
switch terminal.  The piston should remain in the center under normal
conditions.  However, if one system (front or rear) fails , or has a
blockage, etc, the piston will be pushed to that side by the normal pressure
of the working system, completing the circuit for the brake warning light.
When the brakes are released, the pressure will equalize, and the springs
should return the piston the normal position (light will go out).  Some
types do not have centering springs, and the light will remain on without
the brakes applied.  To return this type to a centered position, you must
bleed the system which _did not_ contain the failure after the failed system
is repaired.  These switches have been required by the federal government
since 1967.

   There are also _combination valves_, which is a combination of all three
types of valves into one valve. 

I believe the older Oldsmobiles, um, 67-72 or so, use only a pressure
differential valve (at least the ones with four wheel drums, not sure about
the front disc cars).

FWIW
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:07:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction 

>I currently own the following: 1971 442 w-30 
>convertable,frame off restoration completed Mar 1995. A 1970 442 
>W-30 post coupe,body on restoration completed Feb 1996. 1972 
>Hurst Olds hardtop in origional condition and a 1971 442 W-30 
>hardtop that has been a factory stock dray car that will be 
>restored this winter. This is a no options all power 4 speed that 
>holds the 1976 NHRA record for its class.

Cool...can you see me drooling??

>My 
>daily drivers are not worth mentioning.

Well, do anyway... 
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:39:15 -0300 
Subject: Re: ? on a hood

From: Robert Myers <habs33@jtasd.k12.pa.us>

>I have a 70' Cutlass Supreme. I would like to put a cowl induction
>hood on it. Possibly from a hurst/olds or a 442. My car is all factroy
>original with a 350 under the hood. If the conversion is possible can
>you please tell me what changes are needed to make this work.

If you just want the look, then just swap hoods.  If you want it functional
too, then you need to invest in the OAI flapper assembly that sits on
top of the existing air cleaner base, a new air filter cover pan, etc.
The foam gasket that seals the flapper assembly to the hood is
available in two sizes, a slightly taller one for the 350 motors is
required for your application.

Make sure when shopping you get a hood from a '70 and not a '71 or '72.
These later years have subtle differences in the grille opening area.
And start saving those pennies now.  A complete setup with original
parts may cost you over an grand, depending on your shopping savvy.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Rocket8179@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:40:55 -0300
Subject: Re: 73 Delta 88 on film 

In the movie "ON GOLDEN POND" the two old people have a 73 Delta 88.
The movie is a few years old, but I just rented it at my local video store.

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:44:01 -0300 
Subject: Re: Introduction..... (New guy...)

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>

>Chris,
>Welcome to the list.  I will put you on the Chicago area list.  Be great if
>you could join us some time.  We will have to cruise out way out west
>sometime.

>>Well, I've been hanging around here just reading mail and am finally getting
>>the time to go and give a little intro on myself, so here goes.
>>
>>My name is Chris Ruper, I'm 26 yrs. old, and live in Rockton, Il., U.S.A.
>>(about 80 miles west of Chicago).  <snip>

Since you live so close to Rockford, you should join the Illinois Valley Olds
Club, a chapter of the OCA.  In the next couple of weeks, the IVOC is
holding thier annual member meeting, at some restoration shop in Rockford.
Might be a good chance to meet some other olds people.
Email me if you want the specific date, and I'll look it up in the club
newsletter.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:48:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet 

>When do others want to get together for another Boston/New England meeting?
>Maybe next time we could meet at Fusick's? Nice drive out there at this time
>of the year, and an excellent excuse to spend money we don't have!

Rob,

I'd love to but I'm getting wicked busy with school.  Anytime after the 18th.  
It mainly depends on if I pick up my x or not this Friday.  Of course, I've 
yet to tell her in person...

Roger

p.s.

Was that other car a '70?  I can't remember.  Oh well...  

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 11:42:59 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: crossmember 

     Holy water mains Batman!  4.5" exhaust?  Cooooool. . . .
     
     I just got Torque Techs catalog, they offer 3" systems for all A and 
     G-bodies, different systems too for manifolds/cat-back or headers.

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: crossmember
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
Date:    10/9/96 1:34 PM

> My '84 Cutlass (350 4bbl.) has duals and the original (V6) crossmember.  
> The duals fit just fine.  They come down and then both pipes go to the 
> passenger side of the car, and run alongside each other to the back where 
> they are ran to their specific sides.  Any good muffler shop should be 
     
In my '72 Olds Cutlass, I have headers comming off the 350 and into 4.5 
inch conduate piping that ends right at the diff. It workd really fine 
for me.
     

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:51:11 -0300
Subject: RE: Oldsmobiles on film 

>Yes,I think I saw an Olds wagon in the movie "Lethal Weapon III".It's Danny
>Glovers family wagon. I don't know the year,but it sure takes a beating and

'86 or '87.  I did notice in one seen though the left headlight was dangling 
and on the next it wasn't!  Gotta love doubles...

Roger Borlase

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:57:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles on film 

>There is also an Olds in the movie
>"Tommy Boy". I'm not certain of this ones year/make + model either,but it
>was a blue convertible and it, too, got beat up through the movie but still
>got them home. Gotta love those Oldsmobiles.....

I believe that was a blue Chevrolet in Tommy Boy.  Early/mid sixties era.
Got banged up terribly.  Shame.
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:34:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Re: Olds hp ratings

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB5FF.B0E05380
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


 
Also, the JM 22-25 comes with 108 or 110 degree lobe centers.  108 makes 
more power but has a lumpier idle.  Let me know how you make out.  You may 
inspire me to change.  I'm glad that Joe thinks headers aren't required for 
that cam.  I have 3.23 gears, but an M20 4 speed, which has a the agressive 
2.52:1 (?) first gear.  I wonder if I could run it?

You could run that cam and more with no difficulty

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------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:42:41 -0300
Subject: RE: Mondello-rama

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Sounds great!  I run a stock GM HEI distributor from a mid-70's Olds V8 
Apollo.  The special cam in the distributor allows for about 5 or 6 deg. 
more of centrifugal advance than a standard HEI distributor.  I can run 40 
deg total advance with about 8 deg of initial.  Gotta use 94 octane for 
that, though.  It works great and was dirt cheap.  Fits with my stock '70 
OAI setup and my Performer needed just a wee bit of grinding for clearance 
of the Crane adjustable vaccuum advance (get one of these).  I'm jealous of 
your MSD 6A.  Let me know how that works out.

One thing I'd like to add I 've found that HEI's in the 455 work real well set 
a about 15 initial and 35-36 total.

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------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:39:04 -0300
Subject: RE: Holley vs Edelbrock Intake

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Edelbrock Torker will make a bit more power than the Holley.

- ----------
From: 	71442455[SMTP:implant@macrochip.com]
Sent: 	Wednesday, October 09, 1996 11:17 AM
To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
Subject: 	Holley vs Edelbrock Intake

Has anyone used both the Holley Street Dominator and Edelbrock Torker =
455?  Which one did you like better?  The Holley looks like it has much =
larger runners but the Edelbrock looks taller.  This is going on the =
monster engine - F heads!  Aires flat tops and a bunch of other good =
stuff.  Any help would be appreciated. =20

One other Question - will the crank pulley on a 350 interchange with the =
455's?

Ivan P.




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------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:44:07 -0300
Subject: Re: warm starting problem 

Had the same problem with my '77 403.  The choke coil was the problem.  Seems 
184,000 miles is the service limit on this part!  About $8-9.  You might also 
experiement with turning the choke leaner.  You may find the replacement coil 
works better with a leaner setting.

When this happens again, take the air cleaner cover off.  I bet the choke is 
set.  You can also prop the choke plate open to get it to start.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- --------------
I've been continuing to have a problem that I had before the engine
swap that I've done.  I've got an '84 Cutlass Supreme with a 350 4bbl.
in it.  It will not start easily warm.  First thing in the morning, it
starts fine-- right away.  When I've left it sitting for a couple of
days at a time-- punch the gas once and it starts right up.  But after
I've just driven the car, and cut it off, it won't start, its as if it
is flooded, and will start if I floor the gas pedal.  After several 
hours (3 or 5) it'll crank right up.  The carb is stock, and original on 
this motor.   Both motor and carb have 66,000miles on them (and 
granted, 22 years).  Do you think that it might be time for a carb 
rebuild already?  <SNIP>

Thanks,
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
<SNIP>

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:09:00 -0300
Subject: Quarter for your thoughts...1970 Olds Qu

Anyone/Everyone,

I was at Summer Carlsisle and saw a LH quarter for a 70-72 Cutlass Holiday 
coupe.  Quarter appeared NOS, still had a GM sticker on it.  However, it did 
not have the hole in it for the flow through ventilation plastic vent cover. 
 This is the plastic vent I can see on my '70 442 Holiday Coupe when the 
door is open.    The guy wanted $1000 for the panel, and I was a little 
leery of laying out that much for it.  It was "new" but had a light fuzz 
coating of rust all over it and a few minor dings.  It was sans shipping 
box.

1) I know that the Cutlass Supreme uses different quarters than the Holiday 
Coupes, but do all 70-72 Holiday Coupe quarter panels have the hole for the 
vent? Was this an ersatz quarter panel?

2)  What are the part numbers for the LH and RH quarters for my car (1970 
442 Holiday Coupe) and are these numbers stamped into the quarter, or just 
on a stcker?  Where are they stamped?

3)  Is there someone who has bought up the supply of NOS quarters for 
resale/hoarding (like Year One) or do you have to scrounge for them?  Is 
$1000 a "reasonable" price to pay?

Thanks,
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 10:13:25 -0300
Subject: yet another Olds in the movies 

In the movie "A Perfect World" There is a very nice `66 (I believe)
Vista-Cruiser.  Kevin Costner steals it from a family man. Lotsa screen
time.  If I remember correctly it doesn't get beaten up either, just
ditched.   The movie is exellent.  Clint Eastwood stars as well.  It's kinda
violent in parts and it is an "antihero" type movie.  Nice shots of the car
anyway,  

There's also a 66 or so Vista-Cruiser in "Radio Flyer."  the car isn't that
great, it's a mom-mobile with the usual K-mart rash and dents.  Needs a wax
job.  The movie leans towards the mushy side...it's a family flick.  

Greg Pruett

`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:11:41 -0300
Subject: California Smog Laws with Headers 

I like the idea of the hooker headers that you said you successfully installed 
on your 70 442.  But I live in good ole CA and smog is beginning to be a 
problem.  Is there any way to avoid the smog monsters and run the "illegal in 
CA
on all pollution controlled vehicles" motto. thanks
Brad
'70 442
     
     Brad,
     
     Headers on a 70 442 should not be a problem, even in CA.  The "not 
     legal for use..." disclaimer a) applies primarily to cat-equiped cars 
     and b) is typically indiscriminately applied at the bottom of each 
     page of the catalog without really checking the content of the page.  
     It seems to be easier this way, rather than actually paying people to 
     think. I've seen this disclaimer on catalog pages which had nothing 
     but chrome valve covers!
     
     As for examples, I had headers on my 69 H/O and 70 W-30 while I lived 
     in CA.  While I sometimes had to educate the smog tester (the person, 
     not the machine), I was never failed for the installation.  You will 
     likely need to rig a hot air tube to the air cleaner (get the flexible 
     aluminum stuff from Trak Auto).  The only concern with headers on that 
     age car is the need to retain the A.I.R. injectors, if so equipped.  
     This will only apply to 66-67 Oldsmobiles originally built for 
     California (the 49 state cars did not have the A.I.R. system and pump 
     - an easy way to tell an original California car for those years).
     
     Another issue in the CA smog laws is the need to install a NOX device 
     for 1969 and earlier cars.  FYI, the NOX device is a system to disable 
     the vacuum advance.  The simplest versions are simply caps for the 
     vacuum tap on the manifold and a sticker for the dash warning the 
     driver to avoid sustained high speed driving (gee, thanks).  The 
     intent is to reduce oxides of nitrogen by making the combustion 
     process less efficient and thus cooler.  The more sophisticated 
     versions (read:  more expensive) actually incorporate a temp sensor to 
     switch the vacuum to the distributor in the event that the coolant 
     temperature gets too high.  This works the same as the factory TVS 
     system.  I bring this up because there is a loophole in the law that 
     says that cars which came factory equipped with superchargers, 
     turbochargers, multiple carburetors, or ram air DO NOT require the NOX 
     device!  Apparently, some rare common sense was injected into the 
     lawmaking process, as it was determined that disabling the vacuum 
     advance on these high-performance engines could lead to serious 
     overheating and damage.  Unfortunately, most smog inspectors in CA are 
     not aware of this provision.  Be prepared to point it out to them in 
     the guidelines manual which must be in each station.
     
     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



     

------------------------------

From: sbento@mecn.mass.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:39:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Holley vs Edelbrock Intake

I'am using the Torker 455 on my engine and it seems to work great, but 
then again I got it used for $40 so I can't complain...:) It sounds like 
your enging is going to be more race oriented, A few people I have talked 
to like the Offenhauser Port-O-Sonic better for high rpms than the 
Torker. I have never seen a Big block with the Holley manifold only small 
blocks.

On my 455 I am running all the pulleys from the original 350 (you just 
need to get a longer alt belt).

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0


On Wed, 9 Oct 1996, 71442455 wrote:

> Has anyone used both the Holley Street Dominator and Edelbrock Torker 455?  
Which one did you like better?  The Holley looks like it has much larger 
runners but the Edelbrock looks taller.  This is going on the monster engine - 
F heads!  Aires flat tops and a bunch of other good stuff.  Any help would be 
appreciated.  
> 
> One other Question - will the crank pulley on a 350 interchange with the 
455's?
> 
> Ivan P.
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: Paul Martin <paul@dtm.bc.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:17:02 -0300
Subject: Quarter for your thoughts...1970 Olds Qu

        I have seen NOS q panels without the hold punched in it 
for the vent. 
        It may have been a stamping error from GM. If they are no 
longer available $1000 may not be too much. I believe this piece 
has been discontinued for several years.
        I purchased NOS convertable panels in 1987 and the 
drivers side was shoty of sheet metal where it joins the trunk 
panel near the back window. Anything is possible from GM.

Paul Martin

------------------------------

From: "C. Clements" <cclements@enquirer.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:27:20 -0300
Subject: Heater core....this or that? 

Considering some of the complicated posts on here, this may sound kind
of simple, so flame away if you like. But all posts here seem to be
welcome.
	Heater core: Clogged or shot? 
	This car is a '68 Cutlass 4-dr., 350, with non-working AC, which should
probably be taken into consideration.
	It'll generate some hot heat through the vents, but the hot will
eventually dissolve into not-so-hot. Move the COLD/WARM lever to cold,
wait about 15 seconds, turn it to warm again, presto! More short-lived
heat. 
	That's the symptom; the question again: heater core: Clogged or shot? 
	I'm thinking: SHOT. But I thought I'd field this, to save myself the
pain in the drain of replacing it. It's OK for now, since it's only
October and this IS Ohio, but January around here isn't all sunshine,
exactly. 	
	And if I do need a new core, who sells 'em? Or, to put it this way: is
it better to get one off a junker or is it possible to get a
"new"/repro/rebuilt one from someone like...well, I can't think of the
name, but they're pricey and they're in Jersey. 
	I know already there are very few parts cars in this part of the rust
belt.
	P.S. There's a great place here in Cincinnati called Classix Auto
Restorers which still "specializes in late 60s GM cars," to my
amazement. I haven't been there since I sold them my shot '68 Impala
three years ago. 
        Advice always welcome; the last advice I got on my funky lights
(they flickered, clicking sound up front) paid off (checked all my
grouds, replaced my bulbs in back - presto). My compliments to you all,
you are a knowledgable bunch. Take a bow....

	Chase Clements Jr., Cincinnati OH

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:29:55 -0300
Subject: RE: Holley vs Edelbrock Intake

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB620.B780C960
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Anybody interested in a Holley single plane manifold?


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------------------------------

From: Bull@axon.axnet.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:50:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme

OL>     Henry,
OL>
OL>          You may want to try Tamraz' in Plainfield.  They are very
OL>     competitive in price and great to work with.  I don't know what they
OL>     have in sheet metal in particular, but they are a pretty complete
OL>     supplier of Cutlass parts.  Ask for Bob.
OL>
OL>          It's great to hear from another subscriber from the Chicago area.
OL>      It's too bad you missed our little meet on Sunday in Schaumburg.  We
OL>     will have to include you on the list of potential attendees for
OL>     further meetings.
OL>
OL>          Happy hunting for the parts.
OL>


OL>Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL
OL>brett@actel.com
OL>72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.

            Thank you for the Advice.  I was thinking about going to
your get together, but i got stuck working.   I am from the
Darien/Downers Grove area. Keep me posted if you are having another
meeting

Henry Schneider
70 Cutlass Supreme
71 Caddy coupe Deville

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 11:57:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that?  

>	Heater core: Clogged or shot? 
>	This car is a '68 Cutlass 4-dr., 350, with non-working AC, which 
should
>probably be taken into consideration.
>	It'll generate some hot heat through the vents, but the hot will
>eventually dissolve into not-so-hot. Move the COLD/WARM lever to cold,
>wait about 15 seconds, turn it to warm again, presto! More short-lived
>heat. 
>
>	Chase Clements Jr., Cincinnati OH


I think your heater core is fine.  Sounds to me more like you have a damper
door somewhere that's acting goofy.  I'm not familiar with a 68 but you
might be able to take the ducts under the dash apart enough to see the
damper that mixes hot air with cold for the climate control system.  You
could then drive it around some with the heat on and when the heat gets cold
again you can stop and see if the door has moved out of position.  The cabe
that works it may be messed up, soemone with that year vehicle could
probably tell you better how to find the damper door and how the
cable/vacuum nework works for the climate control system in you car.  But I
really think the trouble is with the dampers and not the core.

Greg Pruett

`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:02:22 -0300
Subject: ARE THEY THE SAME ?

Goodday:

If You Know The Answer To The Following Question,Let Me Know
Here Or At My E-Mail Address (see below)..

The Question:
Are Olds 1969 Toro Front Side Marker Lights And Lenses The Same 
As 1969 Olds Cutlass S Front Side Marker Lights..??

Thank You ..

Great Info On This Page..

Jim Fleeson
Ohioooooooo

1982 Cutlass Supreme (455)
1969 Cutlass S (Wounded):(

------------------------------

From: Anthony Del Balso <anthony@robots.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:14:02 -0300
Subject: RPM Limit

Hi,

After installing a 350 in my 84 Cutlass, I wondered what the new rpm limit
should be.  I asked around, and my machine shop recommended a conservative
4000 rpm.  They said I could probably push 4500 w/o hurting it, but wouldn't
go as far as condone it.  I noticed in Mondello's catalogue, he recommends
a max limit of 5000rpm for engines w/ cast al pistons (like mine).  I didn't
upgrade anything in the lower end (my mistake, I know).  It has stock size
bearings (crank mic'ed to w/in factory new specs!), rebuilt oil pump, re-
conditioned rods, bored 020, new wrist pins & pistons.  The upper end is fine
for higher rpms (Mondello adjust. rocker pivots, lifters, cam, roller chain,
engle springs, professional valve job & assembly of heads, etc.).  I was told
the only limiting factor is the stock rod bolts.  They will break easily 
apparently.  The block is a 73 (or near 73).  If I decide to try and upgrade,
I will replace the rod & main bolts, and insert the oil restrictors.  But I
will probably just sell the car. Any suggestions on rpm limit w/o upgrading 
anything?

anthony

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:30:34 -0300
Subject: RE: RPM Limit 

No man, get a turbine and have a rev limit of 50,000.  The turbine has many 
advanges:

1) will run on anything based on fossil fuel
	kerosene
	diesel	
	gasoline
	#2 fuel oil
	methanol

2) runs smoother
	can balance a nickel on its side with motor running!

3) you'll have the best car since the Chrysler Turbine.

So basically, we're all headed in the wrong direction with pistons.  

Roger Borlase
borlase@gordonc.edu

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:41:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Greg's Article

On Mon, 7 Oct 1996, SG Hartfelder wrote:

> Hey Greg Beaulieu, while at the all Olds show in
> Olds, Alberta (July), I noticed an article in a
> magazine sitting on the seat on one of the cars
> that I thought had your name as the author.  The
> magazine was your standard 8.5 x 11" size and the
> pages were glossy and I believe the articles
> subject was on the internet.
>
> Was that you?
> What was the magazine/issue?

>>Stan, yeah, that was me. The magazine was Journey With Olds, July '96

Greg,

You wouldn't happen to have that saved in a format that you could cut and 
paste it in on the list would you?  Or, even mail me separately?  Please 
please!  Also, I know that some auto magazine did an article on the list, 
and I sure would love to feast my eyes on that too.  If anyone knows where 
it may be on the net, or if anyone has already typed it up, it would be 
great to see it posted here.  Last night at our monthly meeting, I told the 
Archway Olds club about the list for the first time, and a couple people are 
interested in it.  They even want to put an article about it in the 
newsletter.  It would be great to be able to share those articles with them. 
 I would really appreciate it!

Thanks,

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 21:56:00 -0300
Subject: Trying to escape

On Tuesday,  Tucker@aol.com wrote:
>>I would like to be removed from this mailing list can someone tell me
>>HOW??????
NO!  You can't leave!  "You can check out any time you like, but you can 
never leave."
Just kidding,  you can unsubscribe (if you haven't already found out) by 
just sending an empty subject, with only:

"unsubscribe oldsmobile"

 -or- if you are getting the digest,

"unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest"

in as the message.

Aufwiedersehen!

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:24:46 -0300
Subject: Re: California Smog Laws with Headers 

At 09:11 PM 10/9/96 -0300, Joe wrote:

>     Headers on a 70 442 should not be a problem, even in CA.  The "not 
>     legal for use..." disclaimer a) applies primarily to cat-equiped cars 
>     and b) is typically indiscriminately applied at the bottom of each 
>     page of the catalog without really checking the content of the page.  
>     It seems to be easier this way, rather than actually paying people to 
>     think. I've seen this disclaimer on catalog pages which had nothing 
>     but chrome valve covers!
>     
>     Joe Padavano

Joe -

I don't know when you last lived in CA, but around '90 - '92, they passed
legislation that prohibits modifying any portion of the smog control system.
Exhaust systems are included in that sweeping definition.


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:16:00 -0300
Subject: FW: Trying to escape

Sorry, make sure you send it to:

majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca

and not the list.

JAZ

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:32:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Trying to escape 

>Just kidding,  you can unsubscribe (if you haven't already found out) by 
>just sending an empty subject, with only:
>
>"unsubscribe oldsmobile"
>
> -or- if you are getting the digest,
>
>"unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest"
>
>in as the message.

DO NOT send it to the list, though (oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca), send it to
majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca instead.  And don't put any quotation marks in your
message.
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:37:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that?  

>I think your heater core is fine.  Sounds to me more like you have a damper
>door somewhere that's acting goofy.  I'm not familiar with a 68 but you
>might be able to take the ducts under the dash apart enough to see the
>damper that mixes hot air with cold for the climate control system. I
>really think the trouble is with the dampers and not the core.

I concur with the idea that the core is OK.  Check the dampers/cables.  Also
check the vacuum operated heater valve screwed into the right rear of the
intake manifold.  It is (remotely) possible that it is inoperative, or it
has the wrong vacuum line connected to it.  It uses vacuum to open it when
the heat is turned on.  The valve should be closed when the heat is off.  It
may be operating in reverse.  

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: glenn connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:41:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Raced 'em - was: TIRE SIZE AND TRANS CROSSMEMBER 

>
>
>        Who else races Olds stock cars?  I am looking for someone to trade
>tips and war stories.  I have am abundance of both.  Sorry guys but beyond
>the motor, drag racing tips don't help much. (other than removing the body
>bushings, that is a sweet one)

   Yep,   Built and raced '73 Cutlasses until '92.  Ran a pure stock class
for a few      years and had good luck with them.  85% of the cars I raced
against were Chevelles.      The track I ran was 1/3 mile high banked oval.
It was quite a challenge to get a      good set-up through all 4 corners but
when I hit it that Olds torque would give me      an advantage that if used
right would allow me to get position to set up for the        next turn.
What a riot.  I miss it now.  Just building them was fun although alot of
work.

Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Sam Watson <smw@hal-pc.org>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:44:04 -0300
Subject: '67 Rocket 88 Auto Repair Manual

Where can I find a quality repair manual for my '67 Olds 88?

Sam Watson
Houston, Texas

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:50:52 -0300
Subject: Toro Wheel Bearing Info 

Gentlemen, and Toroheads

Remember reading a post here a little while ago about Toro wheel bearings and
not being able to get the seal without getting the bearing or something like
that.

Found these people in the Chocolate Field at Fall Hershey today.  They had
wheel bearings on hand for '66, '67 & '68 Toronados as well as '67 & '68
Eldorados.  Here's a facsimile of their card:

wheel bearings                                  transmission bearings
axle bearings
                                                           seals
throw out bearings                                           felt washers
                                                                    cork
washers

                            OlCar Bearing Company
                specialists in bearings and seals for your
                    antique, classic or special interest
                                      car or truck

455 Lakes Edge                                          (810) 969-2628
Oxford, MI  48371                                George P. Bachleda

hope this helps

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:50:56 -0300
Subject: Fall Hershey, Part 1 

Went sloppin' in the mud today.  It wasn't as bad as I thought.  They allowed
vendors on the fields yesterday until it started to get muddy, then the
closed the gate.  Rain stopped late last night, so the fields had a chance to
dry.  Vendors weren't allowed in again until 10 AM this morning, so the
fields weren't too bad.  Covered the whole white field (what was open) and
about 1/2 the Chocolate Field Annex.  The Green Field and the rest of the
Choc Annex tomorrow.  It's raining again now, so there'll be more mud
tomorrow!  Glad I bought new boots.

Stopped by Fusicks rolling warehouse and picked up a weatherstrip set and
windshield pillar seals for the '72 conv.  Went by Al Sandy's literature
space, but they weren't quite set up yet.  Went by a couple of other Olds
vendors.  One was set up but didn't have anything that interested me,
althought he did have a set of '61 full wheel covers with retaining clips for
$500.  EEK!  The other Olds guy had a flag out, but no parts except for a
couple of trunk lid and I think a rear bumper.  No one around, could have
walked off with everything and nobody would have known the difference.  Found
another vendor that had some flat rate manuals and service guild sets.
 Wanted a service guild set for the '67, but his set was incomplete.

Paul

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 23:52:47 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C duct

Hi Dave,

At 03:12 PM 10/10/96 -0300, you wrote:
>Well, it's nice to be back here after a forced hiatus by my old ISP.  New
>ISP has much nicer people to deal with.  
>
>Anyway, I'm in search of a piece of the A/C ductwork that goes in my 69
>Cutlass.  I need the hard plastic piece that goes underneath the steering
>column from the, uh, distribution box(?) on the center of the firewall
>(where all the controls are) to the drivers side vent.  Seems it got
>misplaced several years ago.  Can't find one around here.  It sort of has a
>profile like an ellipse that has been flattened on the top.  If anybody's
>got one, please let me know!
>
>Thanks!
>    
>--
>Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
>Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
>dpauliso@gate.net

I'm not entirely sure which piece it is you're searching for, but I think
there is more that one piece that goes underneath the steering column from
the distribution box (?) to the driver's side vent.  I was thinking there
was a long flat piece that has a smaller tube going up to the vent.  In any
case, I've got a couple of large boxes of A/C tubes, and I'll see if I have
the piece you want.  Let me know if the pice I described is what you're
talking about.

Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: jev114@email.psu.edu
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 00:12:03 -0300
Subject: quad 4

help i need a 5 speed tranny for my quad 4
i know this is a long shot but thought i might
try anyway!

the dam thing blew up as i broke the 14 sec barrier

Thanks
Jeff

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:26:19 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C duct 

At 11:52 PM 10/9/96 -0300, you wrote:

>I'm not entirely sure which piece it is you're searching for, but I think
>there is more that one piece that goes underneath the steering column from
>the distribution box (?) to the driver's side vent.  I was thinking there
>was a long flat piece that has a smaller tube going up to the vent.  In any
>case, I've got a couple of large boxes of A/C tubes, and I'll see if I have
>the piece you want.  Let me know if the pice I described is what you're
>talking about.

Great, that may be it!  It's just a flat (about 1" tall) wide (about 4"
wide) hard plastic duct that connects to the box and passes under steering
column.  If I remember correctly, the duct goes into a rectangular shape
after it passes under the steering column.  That is where the rectangular
flex hose for the driver's side A/C vent connects.  The duct is maybe, oh,
10 or 12 inches long, I can't recall exactly.  Thanks for the reply!
 
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:26:40 -0300
Subject: Holley Single Plane 

Chris,
Big block or small block, is it in good shape, what's prior usage history
and will it fit HEI?
cf

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:30:30 -0300
Subject: Repair Manual 

I got mine from Faxon's auto literature in San Diego, many moons ago.
Check Hemmings for the number. Think they take credit cards too!
cf

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:43:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that? 

Hate to disagree with the 2 replies I've seen so far, but my '64 has a 
very weak heater - not the thing you'd want with a convertible - and the 
air doors seem to work fine. By that I mean that both the cables and the 
levers on the heater box that they connect with work smoothly, and you 
can hear and feel them moving around in there... so I assume they are OK. 
But it just isn't putting out much heat and i was thinking of a 
plugged-up core. Interesting thing... I felt the heater hoses last time i 
was looking at this. The input one was very warm, the output was just 
lukewarm. Found that hard to figure, shouldn't that heat be going 
somewhere? Doesn't seem to be getting inside the car. My theory was that 
the input side was restricted somehow so that the core wasn't getting 
full flow through it.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:00:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that?  

At 12:43 AM 10/10/96 -0300, you wrote:
My theory was that 
>the input side was restricted somehow so that the core wasn't getting 
>full flow through it.

Make sure the heater valve isn't stuck closed or partially open.
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: DrkSole@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:01:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles on film 

In a message dated 96-10-09 18:02:31 EDT, you write:

>
>>There is also an Olds in the movie
>>"Tommy Boy". I'm not certain of this ones year/make + model either,but it
>>was a blue convertible and it, too, got beat up through the movie but still
>>got them home. Gotta love those Oldsmobiles.....
>
>I believe that was a blue Chevrolet in Tommy Boy.  Early/mid sixties era.
>Got banged up terribly.  Shame.
>--
>Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
>Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
>dpauliso@gate.net
>
>

that was a plymouth. You can read the air cleaner in one seen "Super Commando
383" 
DrkSole
 73 Cutlass Supreme
 67 Delta 88 (coming soon)

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:03:28 -0300
Subject: Car transporters 

FWIW I transported 3 cars across the US.  From MD to CA. And then from CA to
FL.

For the initial job to CA I used an outfit from Las Vegas called Classic
Express. They explained the use of enclosed trailers, million dollar cars
transported, insurance, etc.

They managed to damage both collector cars. The very replaceable Jeep
Cherokee was fine.  The '70 SX the "driver" ran right into the front end of
the of trailer.  Paint was hardly dry on the damn thing.  The driver had
suggested we go home and let him load the cars.  Good thing we didn't.  The
car needed the bent bumper corrected and replated.  They did pay for the
damage to this car.

The '67 came through with _dozens_ of paint chips on the hood and top of the
left front fender.  We saw the car being loaded and, assuming it wasn't
moved, one possible explanation was that one of the chains used to hold the
cars in place on the level above the '67 came loose and landed on the
hood/fender.

I won't waste the bandwidth to give all the details but suffice to say the
damage to the '67 was not compensated.  They were bastards to deal with, no
phone calls returned, etc.

When we moved back east, I used a fellow recommended by a friend (even if he
is a past president of a national C**vy club).  This guy is located in
central CA and uses an aluminum "FeatherLite" open fifth wheel auto haul
trailer.  Holds three cars.  Result -  about half the cost and _zero_, yes
_zero_ damage to the cars.  Just a few bugs.  The owner explained that the
hauler is designed to minimize the chance of thrown rocks and the like.  All
the way from CA to FL with no damage.  If only I had used him first!

Two things I learned are:

1. Don't listen to the "sales" person.  Their only purpose is to sell.

2. Don't ignore a properly designed open hauler.  They are (usually) a bunch
cheaper.  Even an enclosed hauler will get a car dirty.  They aren't air
tight.

If anyone is interested in this fellow I'll post the info.  He likes cross
country but I am sure he does others as well.  I remember he is car guy
first.  He does the hauling for extra $.

Bob Handren

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:49:11 -0300
Subject: Re: RPM Limit 

Hi,
     
After installing a 350 in my 84 Cutlass, I wondered what the new rpm limit 
should be.  I asked around, and my machine shop recommended a conservative 
4000 
rpm. 
     
     I'm assuming you're talking about occasionally buzzing the motor on 
     the street, as opposed to repeatedly banging the RPM limiter on the 
     drag strip.  Back in my younger days (before I rid myself of anything 
     less than 400 cubic inches) I had a 350 in a Vista Cruiser which I 
     would regularly turn to 5500 on the street, with occasional blasts to 
     6000 (and once to 6300, whereupon the valves floated in a big way!).  
     4000 is certainly conservative - I'm assuming you'll also want your 
     shall and white wig :).  I would not be at all concerned with a 5000 
     rpm limit on this motor (again, for occasional use - if you planned to 
     do this repeatedly I'd certainly dive into the bottom end of the 
     motor).
     
     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:54:31 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: RPM Limit 

No man, get a turbine and have a rev limit of 50,000.  The turbine has many 
advanges: <snip>

          Not to mention a 3000 degree exhaust (great way to cure 
          chronic tailgaters) and throttle response which makes the 
          boost lag of early turbo cars look good...oh, and fuel economy 
          which makes my big block powered crewcab dually look like a 
          Honda Civic.
        
     
So basically, we're all headed in the wrong direction with pistons.  
     
          Well...up-and-down instead of rotary (can you say Wankel rotary 
          engine...wait...that's a Monty Python bit...)
Roger Borlase
borlase@gordonc.edu
     
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:27:04 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: California Smog Laws with Headers 

     
Joe -
     
I don't know when you last lived in CA, but around '90 - '92, they passed 
legislation that prohibits modifying any portion of the smog control system. 
Exhaust systems are included in that sweeping definition.
     
     
Spud    
     
     
     Spud,
     
     Actually, I left in 87, so you're right, I don't have the latest data. 
     On the other hand, I do travel there often and I know that there are a 
     _lot_ of cars on the street with headers, many of which have had their 
     headers from prior to 1990.  The prohibition on mods to the emissions 
     control system also predates 1990, in fact it was in place when I 
     moved to CA in 1980!  The key here is the definintion of what 
     constitutes the emissions control system.  For later, cat-equipped 
     cars obviously anything between the engine and the cat is part of the 
     emissions system.  Note that it _is_ possible to legally replace the 
     exhaust system aft of the cat, even on new cars, so clearly this is 
     not a part of the emissions system.
     
     Pre-cat cars (at least those without A.I.R.) won't have their 
     emissions effected by replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers (at 
     least to the first order...yes, I understand about the effects of 
     improved volumetric efficiency and the need to optimize the carb 
     jetting).  In fact, I recall seeing a variation of the disclaimer 
     statement which said something to the effect of "Not legal 
     on...catalyst-equipped cars..."  
     
     While I have not read the language in the CA emissions laws recently, 
     and I am certainly the first to admit that logic and common sense 
     rarely plays a part in the passage of such laws, I'd be willing to bet 
     that the headers on a non-cat, non-A.I.R. car are legal.  My primary 
     point is to caution anyone from believing the word of the inspector at 
     an emissions testing station, as in my experience, they a) rarely are 
     knowledgable about the true legality of modifications, b) find it much 
     easier to say NO to anything which is not stock, rather than spend the 
     time to determine the truth, and c) really don't give a sh*t.
     
     Of course, the easy solution is to get a copy of the law.  This should 
     be available from the DMV.  Be careful that in some cases, the (often 
     abridged) text in these brochures, since they are intended for the 
     mainstream auto owner, often do not address exceptions which are 
     actually called out in the laws.  I'd be willing to bet that even in 
     California, the percentage of non-cat equipped and non-A.I.R. equipped 
     cars on the road, while certainly higher than here in the east, is 
     still extremely small (I also base this on personal observations made 
     recently on the 405).
     
     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:43:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that?  

 Heater core: Clogged or shot? 
 This car is a '68 Cutlass 4-dr., 350, with non-working AC, which should
probably be taken into consideration.
 It'll generate some hot heat through the vents, but the hot will
eventually dissolve into not-so-hot. Move the COLD/WARM lever to cold, 
wait about 15 seconds, turn it to warm again, presto! More short-lived 
heat. 
 
        If the heater core were shot, you would notice a large puddle 
        of coolant in the passenger-side footwell.  Leaking is the 
        only failure mode I'm aware of, so since you didn't mention 
        this, your core is definitely not shot.
 
 That's the symptom; the question again: heater core: Clogged or shot? 
 
        Clogged is a possibility, but not likely.  Assuming the 
        vacuum-controled coolant valve on the manifold is working 
        properly, you should get virtually no coolant flowing through 
        the core with the heat off.  My primary guess is that the 
        cooling system is low on coolant and has air pockets in it.  
        I've had this happen to me, where the heater will be working 
        fine then suddenly start to blow cold air.  In all cases, I 
        later found the coolant level to be low.  Relating this to your 
        symptoms, I'd bet that turning off the heat, then turning it 
        back on again, sends a new shot of hot coolant into the by-now 
        cooled off and air-pocketed heater core.  If nothing else, this 
        is certainly the easiest and cheapest thing to check and fix.
        
        Other, more esoteric failure modes include 
        deteriorated/collapsed heater hoses, an internal heater hose 
        failure which has caused some sort of flap to come loose from 
        the inner wall of the hose, a flake of rust or sediment from 
        the engine block water jacket which has come loose and lodged 
        in the hoses or core, or a broken flapper in the 
        vacuum-operated valve which can randomly open and close.
        
        Note that in the cases where my car has suffered from air 
        pockets in the cooling system, I would sometimes notice the 
        temp guage drop when an air pocket passed by the sending unit.
 
 And if I do need a new core, who sells 'em? 
 
        Just about any radiator shop or "real" auto parts store (as 
        opposed to Trak Auto, Pep Boys, etc) can order one.  I last 
        bought one a couple of years ago from a radiator shop here in 
        Virginia.  I don't recall the exact price, but I think it was in 
        the $45 range (this was for my 70 W-30).
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30
     

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@direct.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 00:26:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Quarter for your thoughts...1970 Olds Qu 

At 09:17 PM 10/9/96 -0300, you wrote:

>        I purchased NOS convertable panels in 1987 and the 
>drivers side was shoty of sheet metal where it joins the trunk 
>panel near the back window. Anything is possible from GM.

...and in the words of Mark Nicoll (Mark of Excellence Auto Restoration),
"anything can be fixed".  Welcome to the list Paul.  It's about time! 

Nick DiGiovanni
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
ndigiova@Direct.CA 

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:34:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles on film 

Every time Chevy Chase's first 'Vacation' movie comes on - I get to watch
the desecration of the '72 or so Vista Cruiser - when he trades it in for
the Sportster or whatever Mercury model they modified!!!  Dont they pick it
up with a forklift & toss it into a crusher?  And its the same color mine
was stock.  In Apollo 13 isnt that a '66 or '67 Vista Cruiser sitting in Tom
Hanks driveway (for 5 seconds of air time) when the media descends upon him
when they announce the space flight - or whatever - I was too busy
plastering myself to the screen to see what year it was to notice what the
heck was going on in the da*n movie.

Come on guys - wagons exist too (and we're BIGGER than some of you other
models)  except maybe that '66 Toro (w/ Mike??!)...

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 & '72 Vista Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/lisa.htm

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:37:15 -0300
Subject: Re: yet another Olds in the movies 

That was an Olds in Perfect World?  Was it white?  God, I must have been
asleep to miss that!!!

Wagons usually catch my eye - especially V-C's.

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 & '72 Vista Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/lisa.htm

------------------------------

From: Shawn Twomey <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:41:43 -0300
Subject: PROM chips

Steve, could you post the phone numbers for the different chip vendors
if you've got them?

Thanks much.
- ------------------------------

>From: Steve Ochs <76057.1404@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 20:46:52 -0300
Subject: Performance Chips

I am looking at 4 different performance chips for my 1987 Olds 442.  I
am
looking at ADS Super Chip, Hypertech, Superchips, and Jetchip.

==================-----------------------------
Shawn M. Twomey  |  "No!  Try not!  Do, or do
stwom@ctp.com    |   not.  There is no try."
(517) 346-7104   |                   -Yoda
==================-----------------------------

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:26:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that? 

On Thu, 10 Oct 1996, Dave Paulison wrote:
> At 12:43 AM 10/10/96 -0300, you wrote:
> My theory was that 
> >the input side was restricted somehow so that the core wasn't getting 
> >full flow through it.
> 
> Make sure the heater valve isn't stuck closed or partially open.

Pretty sure the '64 has no heater control valve. I know the '68 doesn't
either - in fact I don't think I've ever seen one of these things. Had
this conversation on here a couple of months ago. Every car I've ever
owned has had a permanently hot core, with heat controlled by
cable-operated air doors letting air travel (or not) over it and into the
car... no vacuum controls at all. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:34:07 -0300
Subject: Mirrors 

So far, I've found methods of removing silver and aluminum from mirrors, all
by use of hazardous chemicals.  When I find a method for reapplying a
reflective coating, I'll post the set, but these methods are not for the
timid or careless, as severe chemical burns or products of reaction (gas)
inhalation hazards, on top of the usual hazardous chemical problems (spills,
burns, inhalation, disposal, yada, yada).  Well, if anyone is still
interested by then, anyway.

I don't see these as home remedies and can't recommend them, but they might
be interesting to a few out there.


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:41:50 -0300
Subject: Olds on TV 

I've seen lots of postings for movies and TV shows, but no one has mentioned
the opening to Grace Under Fire.  Others are better at identifying them then
I, so what have we there?
 


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 03:52:22 -0300
Subject: RE[2]:Heater core  ... this or that

> Make sure the heater valve isn't stuck closed or partially open.

Greg Beaulieu answered:
> Pretty sure the '64 has no heater control valve.

Mine shop-manual shows a picture of the A/C/Heater system WITH a vacuum
controlled heater valve.

Popped up my hood and found that this valve was no more there.

Regardless you have a valve or not, the symptom quite clearly shows that
for some reason your core is not receiving enough hot coolant.

When you adjust the heater to "cold"-position, you actually block all air-flow
through the core. In this state even a small coolant flow warms up the core.
When You suddenly switch to warm, the radiator gets air flow through it and
warms up the air but cools rapidly down because not enough additional heat
is coming due to the poor coolant flow.

There are several possibilities for this situation:
- - glogged vacuum-controlled vent         (replace wit a solid unit)
- - wedged or clogged heater coolant hoses (replace with new hoses)
- - glogged heater core

You can flush the heater core with the following procedure:
- - Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core. Have suitable plugs
for the hose ends. I used wooden sticks. At this point the heater core drains.

- - Get two 1 metre long hoses that fit into your core. Any cheap garden hose
will do.

- - Connect these hoses into your core.

- - Get two litres of ordinary vinegar or make two litres of STRONG 
coffee-maker
cleaning solution. I used vinegar and it worked fine. And most of all, it is 
not
too corrosive.

- - warm up the solution to almost boiling. Before applying the cleaning 
solution,
turn the heater to "cold"-position to keep the core warm as long as possible.

- - Fill your heater core with the vinegar / cleaning solution. The hoses are 
kept
OVER the level of the radiator during this. Don't burn yourself.

- - Give the vinegar some (maybe 3) hours to do it's job

- - Flush the radiator with garden hose. Force water from both directions.
Keep on flushing until you get only clear water out.

If somebody has used cooland cement to repair minor leaks in the system, these
will start to leak now. Also, since this procedure WILL remove any loose 
particles
from your core, additional leaks may also appear. If leaking, you should either
replace or repair the core. Heater cement is not a repair, it's impair.

- -- 
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi           *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 05:07:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater core....this or that? 

> Date:          Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:26:20 -0300
> From:          Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To:            oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:       Re: Heater core....this or that? 
> Reply-to:      oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca


> Pretty sure the '64 has no heater control valve. I know the '68 doesn't
> either - in fact I don't think I've ever seen one of these things. Had
> this conversation on here a couple of months ago. Every car I've ever
> owned has had a permanently hot core, with heat controlled by
> cable-operated air doors letting air travel (or not) over it and into the
> car... no vacuum controls at all. 

This is completely correct.  My '64 Jetstar had a heater core that 
was always hot, with radiator hoses running directly from the engine 
with no valves.


 
Dan Gulino

------------------------------

From: Gary Green <ggreen@ftn.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:10:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Fall Hershey, Part 1 

>Went sloppin' in the mud today.  
  It's raining again now, so there'll be more mud
>tomorrow!  Glad I bought new boots.

Is there someone in the Hershey area who can give me the weather forcast for
Friday and Saturday Oct 11-12.  I am driving from Ottawa, and would like to
know what to expect.  Hopefully SUN...SUN...SUN... but will prepare for
MUD...MUD...MUD.

Thanks
Gary Green

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:21:29 -0300
Subject: 71 Cutlass SX Convertable for sale

My neighbors friend is looking to selling a 1971 Cutlass SX convertable, 
w/59k original miles, he says it's the Y30 package ?. The only 
non-factory part is the alternator. The car has a 455 cid motor / bucket 
seats (I'm told mint) / original invoice & build sheets.
If anyone would like more information via e-mail or if a desire is 
expressed to view a picture I'll post one on the web site listed below. 
This weekend I'll be checking it out in person and will be able to give 
more on Monday.
The reason for the sale as you can guess.......wife + new twins (in that 
order) = no time & no money (also in that order).

- -- 
                                                     
Bill !                                         _           _       ___  
                                             /  |        /  |    /  _  \ 
1986 442 "The perfect 10"                  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1983 Hurst/Olds 15 Anniversary edition   /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  / 
1986 Cutlass Supreme                    |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__ 
1993 Chevolete Lumina Z-34                    |_|         |_|   |_______|
                                        
          
      Visit http://yogi-bear.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 10/4)

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:52:50 -0300
Subject: Car Models (Was RE: RPM Limit)

> From BORLASE@gordonc.edu Wed Oct  9 21:34:31 1996

> 3) you'll have the best car since the Chrysler Turbine.
>

I remember when the model kit for this car came out, in the mid 60s.
I thought it was neat, mostly because it was one of the first kits
where the doors, hood and trunk opened -- the suspension even worked
(sorta).  Was thrown by that wierd spherical engine under the hood.
Built a version later where I jammed a V8 from another kit in it,
felt *much* better :)

Then Revell came out with it's detailed series of 50s cars (not to mention
its Series I VW Microbus -- like my Dads back then), all with opening
doors & such, and I never looked back at that Chrysler.
Now, if Revell only did the same thing with an Olds....
 
> So basically, we're all headed in the wrong direction with pistons.

I suppose; though if Chrysler's Turbine was the answer, what was the question?

  


Tim (Who Now Thinks He Shoulda Put a Slant 6 in the Turbine Model) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:33:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Fall Hershey, Part 1

Gary Green wrote:
> 
> Is there someone in the Hershey area who can give me the weather 
> forcast for Friday and Saturday Oct 11-12.  

Gary,

If you're in browser mode, go to the Purdue Weather Processor at
http://wxp.atms.purdue.edu/  I think you'll find everthing you want 
there.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:38:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Mirrors

Spud wrote:
> 
> I'll post the set, but these methods are not for the timid or careless, 
> as severe chemical burns or products of reaction (gas) inhalation 
> hazards, on top of the usual hazardous chemical problems (spills,
> burns, inhalation, disposal, yada, yada).  

Cool!  This sounds like fun!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:41:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles on film

Lisa Madsen wrote:
> 
> Come on guys - wagons exist too (and we're BIGGER than some of you 
> other models) except maybe that '66 Toro (w/ Mike??!)...

With or without.  I don't think the Toro 
even notices when I get in or out.

The 66 Toro (the big one) and Mike (the little one)


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:59:18 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 Cutlass SX Convertable for sale

> From billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu Thu Oct 10 09:28:31 1996

> My neighbors friend is looking to selling a 1971 Cutlass SX convertable, 
 <Snip>

> The reason for the sale as you can guess.......wife + new twins (in that 
> order) = no time & no money (also in that order).

Talk him out of it!  He'll regret for the rest of his days!!



Tim (Who Didn't Sell Big Red When He and His Wife Had Twins) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "RYAN KURYLO" <RSK0790@anubis.westmoreland.cc.pa.us>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:02:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction

Hey Mike what's up this is Ryan.  Hey man I will tell you how to 
order the muffler.  My muffler is a flowmaster dual outlet 2 
chambered 2.5 in and 2 out.  all I did is go to my local parts store 
and told them I wanted to order a flowmaster and they hooked me up.  
See you can't order one for a quad for you just have to order a 
universal muffler that way you will be able to get one.  Hey do you 
know of any performance shops that specialize in Q4's.

Ryan
90 442

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:01:58 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Heater core....this or that?  

     
Pretty sure the '64 has no heater control valve. I know the '68 doesn't 
either - in fact I don't think I've ever seen one of these things. Had 
this conversation on here a couple of months ago. Every car I've ever 
owned has had a permanently hot core, with heat controlled by 
cable-operated air doors letting air travel (or not) over it and into the 
car... no vacuum controls at all. 
     
Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
     
     Greg,
     
     The vacuum-controlled valve was only used on a/c equipped cars to 
     prevent having to route the chilled air past a hot heater core.
     
     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:34:53 -0300
Subject: Re: yet another Olds in the movies 

>That was an Olds in Perfect World?  Was it white? 

It's been two years since i've seen the movie but I think it was a gold color.

>God, I must have been
>asleep to miss that!!!

Maybe you were enjoying the movie too much to notice, I know I really liked
it.  It's funny, I remember having freinds of mine coming up to me in high
school telling me there was a car like mine in the movie.  Are we thinking
of the same movie?  Kevin Costner escapes from a prison and Clint eastwood
is leading the investigation to find him. Made 3-4 years ago.

------------------------------

From: "Michael Calvo" <mcalvo@hologic.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:17:03 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobiles on Film 

     
     
     One Olds appearance that I don't think I've seen mention to, (then 
     again I get the digest, so who knows) is the band Chicago's video for, 
     I think it was "Stay the night". Which featured a beautiful girl 
     tooling around in a '68 442 convertible, while the lead singer is 
     hanging off the end of it. I think she even jumps thru a billboard. I 
     remember the video showing a lot of the car. The video came out in the 
     80's.
     
     Michael
     
     mcalvo@hologic.com
     '68 Cutlass Supreme (being built for 11s)
     '70 442 W30 4spd

------------------------------

From: Anthony Del Balso <anthony@robots.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:30:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: California Smog Laws with Headers

If all mods ahead of the cats are illegal, then I am confused.  How can 
Edelbrock advertise CARB numbers w/ their headers?  As well as SLP headers
carry these numbers.  Or are the CARB EO numbers?  I think they are california
air resource board exemption order numbers.  Of course, these would never 
apply to any oldsmobile, only camaros, firebirds, and 5.0's.

Please clue me into what these numbers are for if they don't allow the use of
the components in the specified cars in CA.

anthony
> 
>      
> Joe -
>      
> I don't know when you last lived in CA, but around '90 - '92, they passed 
> legislation that prohibits modifying any portion of the smog control system. 
> Exhaust systems are included in that sweeping definition.
>      
>      
> 

------------------------------

From: a210518@texas.dseg.ti.com (john berenyi 956-6310)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:33:39 -0300
Subject: WTB small block valve covers

If you have a pair of covers in ANY condition for my 330 cu in motor...let me
know by Email.


John
berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:06:40 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: California Smog Laws with Headers 

If all mods ahead of the cats are illegal, then I am confused.  How can 
Edelbrock advertise CARB numbers w/ their headers?  As well as SLP headers 
carry these numbers.  Or are the CARB EO numbers?  I think they are california 
air resource board exemption order numbers.  Of course, these would never 
apply 
to any oldsmobile, only camaros, firebirds, and 5.0's.
     
Please clue me into what these numbers are for if they don't allow the use of 
the components in the specified cars in CA.
     
anthony
    
     You are correct, mods forward of the cat are illegal _unless_ the part 
     has a CARB E.O. number or is demonstrated to be an exact replacement 
     of the factory certified part.
     
     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:09:56 -0300
Subject: UPS man bringeth posiness! 

YES!

The UPS man came bearing gifts today- my 12-bolt 3.73 posi rear end!
The end of a long search finally comes...

I got this unit shipped less axles and brakes from Texas, and boy is it
Texas clean!

It's allegedly out of a '69 GTO; front of the LH tube shows the following
stampings clear as day under the fresh Chassis Black:

T L -0326K-
 E

and on the top of the other tube:

M

Anyone know how to decode these?
And, to remain on Olds-related, it *is* going under my '68 442!

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: Dave Isho <davei-2@mail.idt.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:18:22 -0300
Subject: Re: UPS man bringeth posiness! 

At 02:09 PM 10/10/96 -0300, you wrote:
>YES!
>
>The UPS man came bearing gifts today- my 12-bolt 3.73 posi rear end!
>The end of a long search finally comes...
>
As Tim Allen would say Argh Argh Argh Argh. Did you sniff each other as Tim
would do?

 >Dave Isho --- davei-2@mail.idt.net
     >67 Cutlass CS Convertible...up on jackstands again!!
     

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #326
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