To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET @ ABTLAB
Date:	10/09/96 05:28:43 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #325


oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 9 October 1996     Volume 01 : Number 325


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:26:26 -0300
Subject: Re: 80's G/A Body door Question 

>
>     I'm not sure what you're referring to about the cracking doorskins.  
>     Both my '84 and my '79 are/were just fine in front of the mirrors.  
>     Maybe I just haven't looked close enough.

          I think it just affects the '81 and up, and I think it might be
caused in part from previous owners who were not smart enough to open the
doors slowly.  (if the door opens all the way against the end of its travel,
the cracked area flexes.)

     Both cars of mine have had the windows popping out on the highway 
>     problem.  Actually they never pop out on their own, but once you roll 
>     the window down sometimes you can't roll them up until you slow down 
>     because they fall outside of the plastic retainer on the upper front 
>     corner.  
          Mine's the same until I hit really high speeds (when my ~old~
gears would let me!)  I took it out in the morning drizzle one day, just
after I put the 403 in it.  (Still had the 2.29's in there)  I had the
suspension redone, then blew out the 350 I'd had.  ~sooooo~ I was eager to
open 'er up.  At about 120, the wipers quit working, they'd still sweep and
all, they just wouldn't touch the windshield *at all*!  At about 140, both
windows blew out at the same time!  I figured that was fast enough!  I
slowed down to about 85, and then rerolled the windows.  I tightenned them
up a few months later, and pulled a 150 run (NOT the quarter...) There were
four big guys in the car and the 403 was running on 7 cylinders!  I was
skeptical, but every arguement about errors was coverred.  I fugured at the
very minimum, it was a 149.87 mph average.  If you like speed, 2.29's are
the way!


>     Here's another anti-squeak tip (this one I learned from some Buick 
>     Regal guys).  If you're getting a rattling or thunking from the front 
>     of the car, especially the base of the window, it's probably your hood 
>     rests.  As a quick fix, spread a thin layer of lithium grease on the 
>     front hood supports, the side supports, and *especially* the back 
>     center support which is usually the cause of the problem.  If the 
>     grease fixes it, you can either leave it and reapply the grease 
>     anually, or adjust the hood supports up or down a quarter turn, or 
>     just buy new hood supports (they're cheap from GM).  This fixed a 
>     squeak for me that I barely realized was there.

     My '83 had a really nasty squeak at the base of the windshield forever.
I finally got pissed at it and tore the dash out.  I did everything I could
think of, and ended up R&R'ing that dash about 5 times in one afternoon.  On
the *second to last* test drive, I noticed I forgot to shut the hood.  Oh
well, it's only a block.  The squeak was gone!  I closed the hood and it
came back!  @&$#^#!  I finished putting the dash back toghether, and oiled
up the weatherstrip on the base of the cowl and it shut up!  Now it's got
another major squeak in the rear quarter area, and I noticed one day that I
could see daylight between the wheel well and the trunk floor.  Aaghh!
Cancer!  (This car had led a neglected life before I adopted it.)

    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:45:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: crossmember 

>My '84 Cutlass (350 4bbl.) has duals and the original (V6) crossmember.  
>The duals fit just fine.  They come down and then both pipes go to the 
>passenger side of the car, and run alongside each other to the back where 
>they are ran to their specific sides.  Any good muffler shop should be 
>able to do this.  I've seen plenty of other's (mostly cutlasses) done the 
>same way.<snip>

     Toss in the towel for headers, tho.  That's how mine is ran, too.
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:41:12 -0300
Subject: Re: 80's G/A Body door Question 

>At about 120, the wipers quit working, they'd still sweep and
>all, they just wouldn't touch the windshield *at all*!  At about 
>140, both windows blew out at the same time!
[...]
>(This car had led a neglected life before I adopted it.)

The mind boggles...   :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <76057.1404@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 20:46:52 -0300
Subject: Performance Chips

I am looking at 4 different performance chips for my 1987 Olds 442.  I am
looking at ADS Super Chip, Hypertech, Superchips, and Jetchip.  Is there anyone
who has experience with any of these chips in any carbureted Oldsmobile with a
Olds engine?  They all claim to do the same thing (adjust timing, converter
lockup, mixture) but the prices vary from $59 to $199.  Thanks - Steve - 1987
Olds 442

------------------------------

From: Bull@axon.axnet.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 21:39:32 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme

OL>At 09:08 PM 10/6/96 -0400, you wrote:
OL>>I own a 1970 cutlass supreme and am looking to get the following parts
OL>>
OL>>Left and Right Front Fenders
OL>>Rear Wheel Clips ( another name can't recall)
OL>>Passenger Side door
OL>>Bucket Seat Covers
OL>>
OL>>  I am restoring my 1970 cutlass supreme.  I am the original owner and
OL>>want to make the car as close to new as possible.  Thank you for your
OL>>time.

OL>Henry,

OL>Great car to have owned since new! (I'm second owner of a '70 CS SX). All
OL>those sheetmetal parts are available from either Hall's in Kansas or Auto
OL>Body Specialties in Middlefield, CT (see the Olds web page for details). The
OL>seat covers can be had through Year One, Fusick's or Paddock's (again, see
OL>web page for addresses).  If the rear-wheel "clips" are the quarter-panels,
OL>then you have some big job ahead of you; perhaps you can get away with just
OL>patch panels (same on the fenders; price difference of $40 compared to $295!

OL>Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

OL>-----------
OL>- Bob Barry
OL>- 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
OL>- 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

Bob,

            Thank you for the information actually all i need for the
"clips" is for the wheel well.  I can't locate the magizine to find out
the actual name but they are welded on to the wheel well.  As for the
other things i thank you for the information, but do you have any more
local to me.  I live in Chicagoland area, and the shipping on the
fenders would be high.  In case anyone is interested i will tell you
some info about the cutlass

It is all original untill now.   My son parking the car dinged the right
front fender a few years back and i put a matching ding on the other
side.  I am starting to see my first signs of rust on the 2 front
fenders so i am looking to get replacements.  The car has had alot of
use over the years but as of late has been only takin out occationally.
I really wanna get the car back up to its original condition so it will
be as nice as the day i got it (or Close)

Well If anyone knows of any more local places to get parts let me know
and thank you in advance for any replies.

            Henry

1970 Cutlass Supreme
1971 Cadillac Coupe De Ville

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 22:01:49 -0300
Subject: Re: F/S in central Montana, & 52-98 Question 

In a message dated 96-10-07 21:19:09 EDT, you write:

>  To the left of the steering wheel *(which looks like it has an
>  illuminated horn button??)

Nope, not illuminated

>  or a really archaic
>  auto-headlight dimmer thingy, or what.

You got it, it's called an Autronic Eye.  '52 was the first year for it and
Oldsmobile introduced it to the world.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 22:19:33 -0300
Subject: Hooker Supercomp headers

I like the idea of the hooker headers that you said you successfully 
installed on your 70 442.  But I live in good ole CA and smog is 
beginning to be a problem.  Is there any way to avoid the smog monsters 
and run the "illegal in CA on all pollution controlled vehicles" motto.
thanks
Brad
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:28:00 -0300
Subject: email 

I seem to be having some trouble resubscribing to the list...if anybody has
any replies to me, send a copy to my address as well as the list.

Thanks
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 18:14:00 -0300
Subject: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings

 ----------
From: Mullen, R. Scott
To: Darren Shroeger
Subject: Re: Re: Olds hp ratings
Date: Tuesday, October 08, 1996 10:30AM

Darren,
I am starting my fifth year using Uncle Joe's SAR 455 adjustable roller tip 
rocker arm system.  I had quite a few headaches getting it set up, 
especially getting the correct push rod length.  Seems to run fine now.  If 
you want to keep your stock valve covers (I did) you'll have to remove the 
internal baffles and use a Mr. Gasket or Mondello extra thick cork gasket 
for clearance.  A little selective relief cutting with the die grinder was 
also necessary.

While you have your wallet out, get Joe's stainless valley tray (about 40 
bucks).  It mounts on studs in the bolt holes that hold that little plate in 
the valley.  Then, you can use his compositie intake gaskets ($10, better 
seal than stock metal bathtub gasket) and save big$$$$ by not having to buy 
a bathtub intake gasket at $30 a pop.

Also, the JM 22-25 comes with 108 or 110 degree lobe centers.  108 makes 
more power but has a lumpier idle.  Let me know how you make out.  You may 
inspire me to change.  I'm glad that Joe thinks headers aren't required for 
that cam.  I have 3.23 gears, but an M20 4 speed, which has a the agressive 
2.52:1 (?) first gear.  I wonder if I could run it?
Scott
 ----------
From: Darren Shroeger
To: mullenrs; r_mullen
Subject: Re: Re: Olds hp ratings
Date: Tuesday, October 08, 1996 8:01AM



> what was then my daily driver!!  The Mondello JM 20-22 cam now in my car 
is
> much smoother idle, and a broad, fat torque curve.  Car pulls from 1800 to
> 5500 RPM.  I wish I had bought the JM 22-25.

Wow Scott,
Ironic that you should pose this query as I just spoke with Joe Mondello 
last
Thursday about the big question: Which Mondello Cam To Buy.

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 15:12:46 -0300
Subject: A/C duct 

Well, it's nice to be back here after a forced hiatus by my old ISP.  New
ISP has much nicer people to deal with.  

Anyway, I'm in search of a piece of the A/C ductwork that goes in my 69
Cutlass.  I need the hard plastic piece that goes underneath the steering
column from the, uh, distribution box(?) on the center of the firewall
(where all the controls are) to the drivers side vent.  Seems it got
misplaced several years ago.  Can't find one around here.  It sort of has a
profile like an ellipse that has been flattened on the top.  If anybody's
got one, please let me know!

Thanks!
    
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Doug Johns <mpn@digisys.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 00:55:23 -0300
Subject: 

At 08:50 PM 10/7/96 -0300, you wrote:
>On Mon, 7 Oct 1996, SG Hartfelder wrote:
>
>> Hey Greg Beaulieu, while at the all Olds show in
>> Olds, Alberta (July), I noticed an article in a 
>> magazine sitting on the seat on one of the cars 
>> that I thought had your name as the author.  The 
>> magazine was your standard 8.5 x 11" size and the 
>> pages were glossy and I believe the articles 
>> subject was on the internet.
>> 
>> Was that you?
>> What was the magazine/issue?
>
>Stan, yeah, that was me. The magazine was Journey With Olds, July '96 
>issue. The article was a follow-up about this mail list and Bryceman's 
>web page. Nice of them to print it, I thought. Came out good too. Thanks 
>for asking...
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Unsubscribe      mpn@digisys.net
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 01:07:31 -0300
Subject: Re: ? on a hood 

At 06:42 AM 10/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 70' Cutlass Supreme. I would like to put a cowl induction 
>hood on it. Possibly from a hurst/olds or a 442. My car is all factroy 
>original with a 350 under the hood. If the conversion is possible can 
>you please tell me what changes are needed to make this work.

The factory setup from a W-31 car or a Rallye 350 car will work (as will the
bb setup). It requires a new hood and air cleaner assembly, which costs
$$$$$$$$$$$$ (what would a complete setup in good condition run,
$1500-$2000?). The general consensus seems to be that the aftermarket copies
of the factory setup may be half the cost of the factory pieces (still hefty
in $$$, though), but not even half-as good.

It will work, though.

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys)
- - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 01:36:51 -0300
Subject: TIRE SIZE AND TRANS CROSSMEMBER  

        To Criss, B/c we run a stock car w/ welded spiders tire diameter is
important to maintain the proper stagger in the corners.  I have found that
Tire wear wear doesn't amount to much but tire brand does.  I have a supple
225 15" measured and marked out back but they will not do you any good
unless I can match the brand.  Off hand I remember a pair of 235's that had
an 8" difference around(yes I know the word but it is late and the word is
really hard to spell). But you might not be looking for that exact of
measurement.  Off hand I would say 225 70 15's would be in the 75 to 80
inch range.

        As for the trans cross member, I went the other way and mounted
mine on the underside of the frame.  I personally did it to lower the
center of gravity of the car.  It did smack the tar mack occasionally but
most of that was b/c the frame had been lowered to 5" off the ground.    I
didn't give a rats ass for the pinion angle b/c of the nature of the
application but I seemed to remember it actually improving it.  Gussetting
would be a good idea for a road car, we used the softest bolts we could
find in the hopes the should the motor ever get pushed back 6" they would
shear off.  Hasn't happened...yet...to THIS car.

        Who else races Olds stock cars?  I am looking for someone to trade
tips and war stories.  I have am abundance of both.  Sorry guys but beyond
the motor, drag racing tips don't help much. (other than removing the body
bushings, that is a sweet one)

Kenneth

------------------------------

From: pnelson@cyberport.net (Nelson)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 01:52:49 -0300
Subject: PICTURE 

Is there anyone who has a page who would post a picture of my beast?  After
a season of racing it look really, neat.  Should the trophies be in the
picture or not?
Kenneth

------------------------------

From: holgate@juno.com (David T. Holgate) 
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 02:55:30 -0300
Subject: Re: More Disc (or Disk) Brakes

>Would you believe that all 67-72 disc brake Olds F-85's (includes 442) 
>use
>the same spindles?  They are called "knuckles" in GM language.  The 
>part
>number is (more likely was) 405982.  They are the same for _all_ disc 
>brake
>installations, including the 4-piston version. Surprised me!  I 
>suspect any
>differences Dave found were different suppliers, maybe?  The parts 
>books also
>show some differences for Canadian built cars but not for disc brake
>spindles/knuckles.

This is cool for 67-72 spindles BUT did your book show a different part
number for the 66's if at all? My father-in-law AND brother-in-law,
(both with 66' Cutlasses), are awaiting the info! 

Dave Holgate
(holgate@juno.com)

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 05:24:44 -0300
Subject: Re: PICTURE

Nelson wrote:
> 
> Is there anyone who has a page who would post a picture of my beast? 
> After a season of racing it look really, neat.  Should the trophies be
> in the picture or not?


Go to http://www.442.com/ and talk to Bryceman.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:16:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Excuse me(was RE Tires_Gears) 

>
>No pwoblem, Gweg.
>
>The 66 Toro and Mike
>
>
>-- 
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO       
>     Tampa, Florida         
>     (813) 210-8649            

Hey Mike,

I heard on the news that the storm hit Tampa pretty bad.  I guess you and
the Toro kept your heads above water?

Wow, I just realized there's a really bad pun lurking in that last sentance.

Greg Pruett

`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 08:27:13 -0300
Subject: Re: car stuff

> >Dodge Dart- I teach third grade special education and I
> >voted for Eisenhower
> 

I never actually owned a Dart per se.... but in college, amongst my
various beaters, I had a '67 Barracuda convertible (when they were
still based on a Valiant platform) with a slant 6 and 3 on da tree.

I had close to 200K on the clock, but it still ran great... tho it couldn't
touch 65 with the top down, and the shifter shims were worn on the column
beyond adjustment -- my friends called it "The Mystery Shifter".

Sometimes I wish I still had it lying around... but then I go down to the
garage and look at Big Red, and all such thoughts fade away :)



Tim (Who Thinks the Last Good Chrysler was the '72 Dodge Dart) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:09:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Excuse me(was RE Tires_Gears)

Greg Pruett wrote:
> 
> I heard on the news that the storm hit Tampa pretty bad.  

Not that bad really.  The usual flooding in coastal area, windows broken 
out of water front resturants, etc.  They closed the bay bridges over 
night as a precaution.  But other than that, it was pretty quiet.  I only 
measured about 2" of rain the whole time -- I often get that in an 
afternoon.

I've noticed one thing of late: you can't sell newspapers without a 
story.  If it ain't a disaster, they'll make damn sure it looks like one.

> I guess you and the Toro kept your heads above water?

Didn't even get our cranks wet.   ;)

And thanks for asking,

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Katana72@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:19:54 -0300
Subject: Re: ? on a hood 

If you're looking for performance, don't use cowl induction. Mondello ran
some performance tests and found that a dual snorkel air cleaner, with the
ram air coming from the bumper worked best. However, if you are going for
looks, a ram air 
air cleaner and the ram air hood is available. The air cleaner goes for
$300.00 to $500.00 and the hood for around $1000.00. I know of one person who
has these items, but can't quote you his prices.E-mail me if you want further
info.


Katana72@aol.com    It's NOT you Daddy's Oldsmobile        Hastings, MN

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:30:56 -0300
Subject: Spotted: '67 CS in a VH-1 Video!

So I took yesterday as a mental health day, mostly to get chez Churchill
ready for the winter...

I was eating lunch, and I turned on the TV.  Doing the ol' channel surfing
exercise, I came upon VH-1.  Just in time to see the distinctive taillights
of a '67 Cutlass Supreme!

Turns out this car is shown a lot in the video, almost always from the back
(with a coupla side shots, none from the front though).  In the video,
a woman os running away from her abusive boyfriend/spouse.  I  *think*
it's his car, as she steals the keys in the beginning of the vid.

About the car:  A gold 4-door hardtop Cutlass Supreme, in nice shape -- it has
a gorgeous rear bumper, mit the square backup lights, just like the one I
(and another '67 owner here) are lookin' fer. :(

The red steering wheel seems to be crack-free (another item on my list).

Wonder if it's for sale?


Name of Video: "Birmingham"

Name of artist:  Amanda, err, somebody.  Sorry, forgot the last name.

Anyways, I thought I'd share this, in light of the current thread of
Oldsmobiles in the Movies.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Clay Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 06:06:10 -0300
Subject: Contact List Again

Hello all,
I've gotten things-- I hope-- working correctly on the contact list 
form.  Again, the form that you use to add your name is at: 
***  http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/oldsmembers.html  ***
The Contact List itself, is at:
***  http://www.student.toplinks.com/hp/rovernut/list/main.html  ***
YOUR NAME WILL NOT APPEAR ON THE CONTACT LIST 
IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOU FILL OUT THE FORM.  I have to  add
it manually.   For the people who have filled out the form in the 
last couple fo days, I'm sorry that I haven't added them yet, but I 
just got done with a killer History test here at ETSU.  I have only 
gotten a small percentage of the people on the list to fill out the 
form so far.  I'm wainting for you all to fill out the form now!

The following people filled out the form before it was complete, and 
some of thier information is missing.   These people need to fill out 
the form again-- sorry.

Blaine Sanders
Roger Heath
Robert Whitaker

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@access.etsu-tn.edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. 66,000miles)
'80 Rover 3500 (215 EFI V8 85,000miles)
'72 Mercury Marquis Brougham (429 4bbl. 110,000miles)
- --
"It is in vain to hope to please all alike.  
 Let a man stand with his face in what direction he will, 
 he must necessarily turn his back on one half of the world."
     
               George Dennison Prentice

                -------***++***-------
                      
                    Clayton Pierce
 home page at: http://members.tripod.com/~rovernut/
            zcwp11@access.east-tenn-st.edu
                    (423) 
638-2780                                                              
           
                -------***++***-------            

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 10:13:26 -0300
Subject: Re: w30 air cleaner 

>gone. Went around back to check for 442 bumper (nope) but, what's this
>in the
>trunk? A '70 W30/W31 OAI aircleaner complete with flapper door! Not
>even from
>this car, as it had a plain old hood... So just "extra parts" to the
>guy?

To all who showed interest in the OAI aircleaner: Still haven't heard from
the guy. May just have to drive back out there this weekend.

Just for the record, if I *do* get the air cleaner I don't plan to swap/sell
it until I determine whether or not to buy that '70 W31 that I found a while
back as it needs one. Darn those shiny chrome aftermarket jobs!

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 10:28:31 -0300
Subject: Oldsmomovies 

Okay everyone,

How about Fargo?

An off-the-edge movie which features an Oldsmobile dealer who hires his wife
kidnapped by a coupla thugs... even provides a Burnt Umber Ciera as partial
payment!

Not for the squeamish, but actually a great movie. Done by the Coen brothers
of Raising Arizona fame. Features that priceless Raising Arizona-esque
slice of life cinemetography, this time spotlighting Northern Minnesota.

Mind you, a few people do get shot up in this movie, so I can't recommend it
unilaterally. But if you can hack a bit of that, you'll find a gem in Fargo.

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: "Rob Malland" <storm442@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 10:31:15 -0300 
Subject: '73 door hinge replacement

Hi guys,
    I was wondering if anyone has changed the door hinges on a '73 or similar
car.  My question is where do I purchase the new hinges at? there is an olds
dealer in town -will he have them, or do I need to mail-order them?
     Any tips that you've got pertaining to this would be helpful as I've never
done this before..

Thanks,
Rob Malland  '73-442
Tacoma, WA   '95 Cutlass-Supreme SL












.


- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:39:24 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings

R Mullen wrote:
> 
> I am starting my fifth year using Uncle Joe's SAR 455 adjustable roller 
> tip rocker arm system.  

Hey, Scott:

What did that end up costing you to put in.  Start to finish?

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:43:18 -0300
Subject: Re: F/S in central Montana, & 52-98 Question

Spud wrote:
> 
> As the owner of L A R G E Oldsmobiles, Mike, you have to realize, this 
> is a periscope.

Aye, Cap'n!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:50:50 -0300
Subject: Old Olds Magazine Ad Sighting 

The current issue of Newsweek (with the Dole/Clinton "Is It All Over?"
debate cover) has an article near the back on the dwindling interest
in manual transmissions on new cars. Feature photo selected to head the
article is a reprint of a 1930-something (I forgot) Olds advertisement
from the Saturday Evening Post on the benefits of the Synchro-Mesh
transmission. It's a nice reprint, large enough to read all the copy,
with one of those classic paintings for artwork, not a photo, showing
a well-dressed couple at a car show expressing _ludicrous_ interest in
a cutaway model of an Olds transmission. Check it out!

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 11:01:27 -0300
Subject: Re: another request for pic 

> Hey group,
>              Still looking for a pic of a close to correct engine
> compartment of a '69                4-4-2.  If you got one on file, please
> send.  If not, does anyone know of               a publication in color that
> I can reference.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>  
Hey, while leafing thru olds mags I found a semi-decent engine compartment
shot of a '69 442.

Shall I scan it and attach it to an email to you? Can you receive attachments?

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 10:11:55 -0300
Subject: Re: car stuff 

>> >Dodge Dart- I teach third grade special education and I
>> >voted for Eisenhower
>
>I never actually owned a Dart per se.... but in college, amongst my
>various beaters, I had a '67 Barracuda convertible (when they were
>still based on a Valiant platform) with a slant 6 and 3 on da tree.

I never had one either, but learned to drive in one... sort of. See,
the driving simulator at New Trier East High School in Winnetka, IL,
was this big mobile-home-like setup housing a kind of movie theatre
with two rows of dashboards and driver's seat setups from Plymouth
Valiants. These things were fully functional; as I remember, not only
did the speedo and turn signals operate as if they were really part of
a car, but if you revved the "engine", the oil pressure even went up.
It was built by Allstate Insurance and used films shot in and around
the Allstate office area in the northwest suburbs and Chicago. In one
movie we actually drove down my own home street. Totally weird. But I
think I would actually pay to do another session in one of those things
just for yucks...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 11:23:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings 

> R Mullen wrote:
> >
> > I am starting my fifth year using Uncle Joe's SAR 455 adjustable roller
> > tip rocker arm system. 
>
> Hey, Scott:
>
> What did that end up costing you to put in.  Start to finish?
>
> The 66 Toro and Mike
>

Mike,

I just ordered some last night from Joe himself. $359 for the set.
JM claims it'll clear stock RAcovers (We'll see about my notched ones).

May have to go with extra thick gaskets and no baffles as Scott mentioned.
According to JM, the roller set is the best way to make a stout cam (I went
with the JM22-25-10) work.

Coulda did adjustable pushrods instead at $150/set, or adjustable RA pivots
at $100. I figured, why skimp? If I'm doing it, mitaswell do it *right*...




- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 14:36:50 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings

Darren Shroeger wrote:
> 
> I just ordered some last night from Joe himself. $359 for the set.

More reasonable than I might have expected.
 
> Coulda did adjustable pushrods instead at $150/set, or adjustable RA 
> pivots at $100. I figured, why skimp? If I'm doing it, mitaswell do it 
> *right*...

Have to agree with you there.  My budget's not gonna like this...

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:54:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme

     Henry,
     
          You may want to try Tamraz' in Plainfield.  They are very 
     competitive in price and great to work with.  I don't know what they 
     have in sheet metal in particular, but they are a pretty complete 
     supplier of Cutlass parts.  Ask for Bob.  
     
          It's great to hear from another subscriber from the Chicago area. 
      It's too bad you missed our little meet on Sunday in Schaumburg.  We 
     will have to include you on the list of potential attendees for 
     further meetings.  
     
          Happy hunting for the parts.
     


Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
brett@actel.com
72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.


     


______________________________ Forward Header 
__________________________________
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme
Author:  Bull@axon.axnet.com at SMTPlink-Actel
Date:    10/8/96 9:39 PM


OL>At 09:08 PM 10/6/96 -0400, you wrote:
OL>>I own a 1970 cutlass supreme and am looking to get the following parts 
OL>>
OL>>Left and Right Front Fenders
OL>>Rear Wheel Clips ( another name can't recall) 
OL>>Passenger Side door
OL>>Bucket Seat Covers
OL>>
OL>>  I am restoring my 1970 cutlass supreme.  I am the original owner and 
OL>>want to make the car as close to new as possible.  Thank you for your 
OL>>time.
     
OL>Henry,
     
OL>Great car to have owned since new! (I'm second owner of a '70 CS SX). All 
OL>those sheetmetal parts are available from either Hall's in Kansas or Auto 
OL>Body Specialties in Middlefield, CT (see the Olds web page for details). 
The 
OL>seat covers can be had through Year One, Fusick's or Paddock's (again, see 
OL>web page for addresses).  If the rear-wheel "clips" are the quarter-panels, 
OL>then you have some big job ahead of you; perhaps you can get away with just 
OL>patch panels (same on the fenders; price difference of $40 compared to $295!
     
OL>Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
     
OL>-----------
OL>- Bob Barry
OL>- 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block boys) 
OL>- 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)
     
Bob,
     
            Thank you for the information actually all i need for the
"clips" is for the wheel well.  I can't locate the magizine to find out 
the actual name but they are welded on to the wheel well.  As for the 
other things i thank you for the information, but do you have any more 
local to me.  I live in Chicagoland area, and the shipping on the 
fenders would be high.  In case anyone is interested i will tell you 
some info about the cutlass
     
It is all original untill now.   My son parking the car dinged the right 
front fender a few years back and i put a matching ding on the other 
side.  I am starting to see my first signs of rust on the 2 front 
fenders so i am looking to get replacements.  The car has had alot of 
use over the years but as of late has been only takin out occationally. 
I really wanna get the car back up to its original condition so it will 
be as nice as the day i got it (or Close)
     
Well If anyone knows of any more local places to get parts let me know 
and thank you in advance for any replies.
     
            Henry
     
1970 Cutlass Supreme
1971 Cadillac Coupe De Ville
     
     
     

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 11:06:00 -0300
Subject: 4-4-2 Pictures

I've been trying to send to your mail address, but it keeps bouncing again, 
so I'm putting it on the list.
_____________________
Glenn,

Just to let you know, I haven't forgotten you.  I brought in the pictures
last week that I have of the '68 442, and the '69 W30, and the '69 H/O, and
made some black and white copies and enlargements, and they turned out ok,
but, I need to get over to Kinkos to make some color photo copies of them.
 I'm thinking the color ones should look better.  The ones I got out of the
book that were black and white to begin with are probably as good as they
are going to be (with the laser copier I used), but the color pictures from
the cards probably would look a bit better on a color photo copy.  I was
really busy this weekend, and didn't have a chance to get them photo copied
yet, but I should be able to make it in the next day or two.  I'll keep you
posted.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:10:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings 

> > I just ordered some last night from Joe himself. $359 for the set.
> > Coulda did adjustable pushrods instead at $150/set, or adjustable RA
> > pivots at $100. I figured, why skimp? If I'm doing it, mitaswell do it
> > *right*...
>
> Have to agree with you there.  My budget's not gonna like this...

Yah, *tell* me about it! I ended up spending over $1,000 with good 'ol
JM... Should I forward a rundown of the order for everyone's drooling
delight?

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: 71442455 <implant@macrochip.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:17:34 -0300
Subject: Holley vs Edelbrock Intake

Has anyone used both the Holley Street Dominator and Edelbrock Torker =
455?  Which one did you like better?  The Holley looks like it has much =
larger runners but the Edelbrock looks taller.  This is going on the =
monster engine - F heads!  Aires flat tops and a bunch of other good =
stuff.  Any help would be appreciated. =20

One other Question - will the crank pulley on a 350 interchange with the =
455's?

Ivan P.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 05:11:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Performance Chips 

     I'm using a Hypertech chip in my '84 H/O.  E-mail me privately and 
     I'll answer any questions you might have (my e-mail program doesn't 
     show your e-mail address).  I won't post it here since it's been done 
     before recently.
     
     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: Performance Chips
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
Date:    10/8/96 5:02 PM


I am looking at 4 different performance chips for my 1987 Olds 442.  I am 
looking at ADS Super Chip, Hypertech, Superchips, and Jetchip.  Is there 
anyone 
who has experience with any of these chips in any carbureted Oldsmobile with a 
Olds engine?  They all claim to do the same thing (adjust timing, converter 
lockup, mixture) but the prices vary from $59 to $199.  Thanks - Steve - 1987 
Olds 442
     
     

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:57:05 -0300
Subject: Re: car stuff

> I had close to 200K on the clock, but it still ran great... tho it couldn't
> touch 65 with the top down, and the shifter shims were worn on the column
> beyond adjustment -- my friends called it "The Mystery Shifter".

Ran great!!??  Uh... just what do you consider "good", "fair", "okay".
I'm terrified to ask what "ran poorly" would mean.

- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5450    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: brett@actel.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 14:23:31 -0300
Subject: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet

     
          Well, some of us in the Chicago area got together on Sunday.  I 
     will not spend too much time re-stating how much fun it was, as the 
     other guys have done a great job at this already.  
          Did you guys in Boston get together?  You were ragging us about 
     how you would beat us to the punch.  We had a total of 8 guys, 2 
     spouses, and a number of kids.  If you met, how did you fare?
     
     
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
brett@actel.com
72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.


      

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:11:19 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings

Darren Shroeger wrote:
> 
> Should I forward a rundown of the order for everyone's drooling 
> delight?

Have at it.  I could do with a good drool.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:31:32 -0300
Subject: Web Surfing

Folks,

Bumped into this place this morning:

AUTO AND PARTS, the Ultimate Auto Internet Access. 
http://www.autop.com/go/

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:30:55 -0300
Subject: RE: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet 

>          Did you guys in Boston get together?  You were ragging us about 
>     how you would beat us to the punch.  We had a total of 8 guys, 2 
>     spouses, and a number of kids.  If you met, how did you fare?

4 guys, no spouses, no kids.  3 cars:  A Tororanado, a w-30 442, and a cutlass 
cruiser!     

Roger Borlase      
'72 Cutlass Cruiser
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:28:15 -0300
Subject: Ran Great (Was Re: car stuff)

> > I had close to 200K on the clock, but it still ran great... tho it couldn't
> > touch 65 with the top down, and the shifter shims were worn on the column
> > beyond adjustment -- my friends called it "The Mystery Shifter".
> 
> Ran great!!??  Uh... just what do you consider "good", "fair", "okay".
> I'm terrified to ask what "ran poorly" would mean.

"Ran Great" -- Started right up every morning, including one extremely cold
Christmas when the 'Cuda was the only car amongst my circle of friends (and
their parents) that started.  I was going around jump-starting everyone else's
car -- including my friend's Dad's 98.  And it got 21 - 23 mpg.  Only smoked
a lil at startup, didn't feel like doing the valve seals.  I only parked it
'cuz of the sloppy shifter bushings in the column, and I couldn't locate 
another
column... neither could I find a source for a 3 speed shifter..
It just wasn't a very powerful car, is all.

I'm a GM guy in general, and an Olds fan in particular, but you gotta admit
Chrysl*r built at least one historically decent mill -- the Slant 6.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:01:00 -0300
Subject: Mondello-rama

Darren,
>I decided to buck up and go rollertip. Worth the $$ in yer opinion?

I take it you mean full roller.  I have heard mixed reviews on the 
durability of aluminum rocker arms on the street.  Let me know how they look 
when you get them.  The ones I have (SAR 455) are roller tip and are cast 
steel.  I had to clean them up a little bit to relieve the rocker stud 
openings.  Joe usually gives you your money's worth.  He hasn't steered me 
wrong yet.

>What did you have to relief cut? Are you running notched covers?

I had to grind small depressions in the covers to remove some minute 
clearance problems.  I run the standard stock valve covers with the baffles 
removed.

>So that's what's going into me motor... Anything you'd do differently?

Sounds great!  I run a stock GM HEI distributor from a mid-70's Olds V8 
Apollo.  The special cam in the distributor allows for about 5 or 6 deg. 
more of centrifugal advance than a standard HEI distributor.  I can run 40 
deg total advance with about 8 deg of initial.  Gotta use 94 octane for 
that, though.  It works great and was dirt cheap.  Fits with my stock '70 
OAI setup and my Performer needed just a wee bit of grinding for clearance 
of the Crane adjustable vaccuum advance (get one of these).  I'm jealous of 
your MSD 6A.  Let me know how that works out.

Joe's double valve springs (by Engle)are very nice items.  I run those and 
have had no spring load loss after 5 years.  I also have his 7 qt street oil 
system.  Pan is very nice, and does not interfere with ground clearance or 
exhaust.  Oil pump for my set-up is also very impressive.  Sounds like your 
oil system set-up is right on the money.  Make sure you drill that little 
hole in the back of the set screw in the lifter galley so the distributor 
gear gets oil.  Don't re-use the Welch plug (think it's 27/32") that covers 
up the set screw.  Get a new one.

I had to do a LOT of grinding on Joe's full length widage tray to get all of 
the clearances right.  Not too much on any one spot, but there are a whole 
lot of spots that it was rubbing on.  Eventually I had to slot it in a few 
spots for rod bolt clearances.

One last thing.... I put a .050 shim in my Mondello HV pump to get the 
pressure up.  (Double check with Joe on recommended shim size).  As is, it 
gave me (hot) 25 psi idle and about 45 psi max.  After 5 years, a tear down 
revealed that my bearings were a little tired.  I caught it in time, with no 
damage to the crank.  I put a small washer in the cup.  Now I get (hot) 40 
psi idle and 65 psi at speed.  This is with Joe's recommended 20W-50 
Pennzoil.  I just bought 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic, but have not tried it 
yet.  Since I pull about 75 psi cold, I think the 15W rating might help at 
start-up.  What are you running for oil?

Scott Mullen
'70 442

P.S. Did you get my posting on Joe's external oil return system?  Now's the 
time to do it.

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:15:00 -0300
Subject: VH-1 Sacrilage

From: Timothy A. Churchill
 >I came upon VH-1.  Just in time to see the distinctive taillights
>of a '67 Cutlass Supreme!

Tim,
I saw the video around 12:00 yesterday while on lunch break from the salt 
mines. (That mental health/work on the car day sounds like a good idea....) 
 Did you notice the oversize Shevy emblem that was on the left side of the 
decklid right next to the tail lights?  I was puzzling over what kind of car 
it was until I saw the holy Rocket emblem on the horn button.  My coworkers 
could not understand my outrage over the desecration on the decklid. 
 Infidels!
Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:12:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet

Roger M. Borlase wrote:
> 
> 4 guys, no spouses, no kids.  3 cars:  A Tororanado, ...

                         A  WHAT ???       ^^^^^^^^^^ 

The 66 Toronado and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 14:18:10 -0300
Subject: Re: VH-1 Sacrilage

>  >I came upon VH-1.  Just in time to see the distinctive taillights
> >of a '67 Cutlass Supreme!
> 
> Tim,
> I saw the video around 12:00 yesterday while on lunch break from the salt 
> mines. (That mental health/work on the car day sounds like a good idea....) 
>  Did you notice the oversize Shevy emblem that was on the left side of the 
> decklid right next to the tail lights?

No, I must've blocked the sissy bow tie when it appeared... Blasphemers!

> I was puzzling over what kind of car it was until I saw the holy Rocket
> emblem on the horn button.  My coworkers 
> could not understand my outrage over the desecration on the decklid. 
>  Infidels!

Scott, it is your mission to enlighten them :)

> Scott Mullen
> '70 442
> 
> 



Tim (Who wants to be the Foster Parent of that Abused '67 CS) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Roger M. Borlase" <BORLASE@gordonc.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 14:31:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet 

>> 4 guys, no spouses, no kids.  3 cars:  A Tororanado, ...
>
>                         A  WHAT ???       ^^^^^^^^^^ 

Sorry Mike,

I was under the influence of thinking about breaking up with my girlfriend, 
something that I just finished doing.  Good thing to do before she comes, 
huh?!  Too bad she's flying!!!

Actually I had a Schwinn Tornado.  Mag wheels, it rocked!

Roger Borlase	(the lonely single guy)
http://www.cs.gordonc.edu/~borlase

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 21:38:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Who'd wanted to drive that around town? 

> Darren Shroeger wrote:
>
> >>Who'd want to drive that around town? But great on the dragstrip, I
> suspect.

> Who wanted to drive those overheating, gas guzzling, rubber screeching, gear
> grabbing muscle cars?  Why any red blooded male with a job that could afford
> the payments! 

Of course, of course! I had speaketh with tongue in cheek, but seems it was
more like foot in mouth!

In any case, I really enjoyed your relating the aura and enigmatic rubber-
burning daily activities that, yes, I *am* to young to have lived!

As I posted quite a long time ago, I, like my 442, was built in '68!

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:43:03 -0300
Subject: It's me! 

Hey guys, I'm back.  Had a forced hiatus from the 'net due to my _old_ ISP.
Got a new one, things are much better!  I missed all you guys (and gals)!
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme  
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <redhead@mailmasher.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:00:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Re: Head to Headers on Exhaust systems 

> Agreed, agreed and agreed.  I have never maintained that headers do not
> produce power gains.  However, headers would be a long way down on my list
> of mods, because of the penalties involved in their use.  Port matching the
> W/Z manifolds (a slight downhill lip on the lower side of the port (i.e.
> level of exhaust port floor slightly above the level of the manifold flange)

> helps prevent reversion) and getting a 2.5 " full length system w/
> Flowmasters would give you the highest efficency for a reasonably stock
> system. 

Wow again Scott,

Ordered the 2.5" Flowmasters last week, planned to have a 2.5" straight
exhaust bent up locally. Jeg's had the Offset/Offset type in 2.5" for,
you guessed it, $49.99 each!

Actually I need to find a source for pre-bent pipes, as the aluminizing
lasts better that way, I hear. Any ideas?

- -Darren Shroeger 
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:45:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Proportioning Valves 

In a message dated 96-10-06 22:13:39 EDT, you write:

> If total originality is not an issue, don't kill yourself trying to find an
>  original valve which may or may not be correct, or work properly for that
>  matter.  Particliarly if you are using custom wheels, tires or modified
>  suspension.  All these things can change the "balance" between front and 
> rear
>  braking requirements.
>  
>  There are several sources of adjustable proportioning valves.  Install one

> of
>  those and you can adjust the front/rear brake bias to match the demands of
>  your car.
>  

Well, total originality isn't an issue, but there are no custom accessories
involved.  This car is currently running Firestone Wide Ovals (to be changed
to radials when they wear out) on standard steel rims with optional factory
wire wheel covers.  I'm not one for adjusting things, so I'd rather have a
valve is set to factory specs for these cars.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Spud <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 23:59:49 -0300
Subject: Exhaust manifold bolts 

In my intro over the summer, I asked about the proper exhaust manifold
bolts, whether tapered thread (musta been some bad cactus juice that parts
counter guy had), yada, yada.  A few replies came back that Year One had a
bolt spec'd. for Cutlass/442 that might work.  I ordered the catalog through
their web site, for this and any other possible crossover parts for my Delta
and saw the price for the bolts was $1.75 ea.

Well, I'm at the point where I'm replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets
(again!) and went out to the local
overpriced-but-likely-to-have-a-lot-of-what-you-want hardware store (Orchard
Supply, for you nonCalifornicators) for a look see.  Lo and behold, 3/8" by
1-1/4", coarse thread, cadmium plated, grade 8 bolts were readily available.
For $0.29 ea.

I haven't yet removed the exhaust manifolds to confirm the size, but I
figured I can always find a use for them, so I nabbed ten.  To top it off, I
told the checkout woman the price and other details and she wound up
charging me only $0.24 ea.  Almost had to conceal a woody (that's right, I'm
a cheap sumbitch).

More on this project later.


Spud     "Fart proudly."
'86 FXST   --Benjamin Franklin
'73 Delta 88
'79 LeBaron

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:51:00 -0300
Subject: Ertl '69 442 & H/O

FYI:

I stopped by a reputable local hobby/toy store that has one of the greatest 
collections of miniature/die-cast car collections I have ever seen, and 
enquired about the '69 442 & H/O that is due out anytime.  He told me it was 
due out in November.  I mentioned that I heard it was supposed to be out 
already, and he said he'd show me the release from Ertl that he just 
received.  He broke out Ertl's magazine that they send to their heavy duty 
customers that had a full page on the two Olds gems, and sure enough, it 
said it is due out "11/96."  No exact date.  The guy really knew his stuff. 
 You could name off a car, and he could tell you every type of scale model 
ever made of it, when it was made, and by who, and how much it is worth.  He 
has a '68 Cutlass dealer promo model, that dealerships used to receive when 
the new models come in.  In fact he had many dealer promo models, and even 
showed me a picture of the huge line of Olds models he has.  Although they 
were of course the minority, I still have never seen so many Olds models, 
and die cast models before.  He was also very nice, and willing to help. 
 They are a little steep on price, but he can usually get you what you want. 


Here is the info on the place:
St. Louis Miniature and Toy Company
505 West Port Plaza
St. Louis MO 63146
(314) 469-0977  (ask for Barry)

By the way, if you haven't seen pictures of the two of them yet, they look 
great.  Grilles look perfect, engine compartment very nice, and paint, 
emblems and interior looks great.  The only thing I noticed that might have 
been overlooked is the trim seemed to be missing (the wheel well chrome, and 
the chrome that starts near the headlights and ends at the rear of the rear 
side windows.  I couldn't see it in the picture.  I hope they noticed before 
production started.

I gave him my name and number, and he's going to call me when they get in. 
 I'll probably get them though at Toys R Us, because they'll cost me about 
half the price he wants for them.  But if Toys R Us doesn't get any, I at 
least have a second option.  Also, he said they might actually get them in 
just before November.  He said sometimes Ertl WILL send them out early.  He 
said it was possible, but not likely.

Anyway, just wanted to share the info.

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: David Johnston <dhjohnst@learn.senecac.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:49:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: crossmember

On Tue, 8 Oct 1996, David Brown wrote:
> My '84 Cutlass (350 4bbl.) has duals and the original (V6) crossmember.  
> The duals fit just fine.  They come down and then both pipes go to the 
> passenger side of the car, and run alongside each other to the back where 
> they are ran to their specific sides.  Any good muffler shop should be 
> able to do this.  I've seen plenty of other's (mostly cutlasses) done the 
> same way.<snip>

In my '72 Olds Cutlass, I have headers comming off the 350 and into 4.5 
inch conduate piping that ends right at the diff. It workd really fine 
for me.

dhj

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Little fact of the week: Between 1980 and 1988, 8 
people were killed as a direct result of tipping over
pop machines...

Check out my personal web page at:
 http://learn.senecac.on.ca/~dhjohnst/dhj.htm
Check out the official Camp Rainbow web page at:
 http://learn.senecac.on.ca/~dhjohnst/rainbow.htm

Interests:
  Muscle Cars   -1972 Olds Cutlass 442
  Camping
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:42:49 -0300
Subject: Seat Reupholstering 

I just did this work on my 98, but opted for high buck "always wanted it
that way" approach. 

Some tips:
1) Many hog rings per foot, this distributes the stretch load on the 
material and reduces ripping tendancy in the fabric/vinyl
2) Ask if they will replace springs or weld new ones in or connect those
that are already there to stiffen weak springs. Especially on the driver's
seat, weak spring under old foam can cause premature wear
3) Ask about new foam, if not too much extra, could be a good investment

4) While you're in there, see if you can bolt/wire in the 6 ways electric
seat mechanism. They're fairly common and on big cars botl right in (the
harness even has wiring for it built in!)
5) When they're done see that the seams are straight and look right. They
should be symmetrical and the lacing (if any) shoudl be straight and 
any curves should be smooth and symmetrical to other similar curves on the
other side of the seat. Check patterns like tuck'n'roll or diamonds to see
that they to are straight and look right.

S'about all I know, but boy is a new interior cool. Think about doing the
carpet while yer in there. Extra cool.
cf

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:45:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction 

>I had it a month, when it started to lose power, then stopped
>altogether.
>My mechanic said a clogged catalytic converter damaged an injector and
>the oxygen sensor.

Umm, wait a minute.  How does ~that~ work?  A damanged injector and/or a
damaged oxygen sensor ~might~ damage the convertor, but I don't see it being
likely or even possible for that phenomenon to occur in reverse (or drive
for that matter!:)  O2 sensors get lazy after a while, and converters are
known to plug up, AND injecters are known to go bad.  Any combination of
these problems is not uncommon, BUT to try to relate them all together would
be an unlikely event.  Unless in that fender bender (resulting in that
offcolor fender) the fender shoved the ~entire~ engine out the exhaust pipe,
and compacted everything that got in it's way!  (yeah, I kinda doubt that, 
too!)
     Anyway, sounds like you have a really sweet car.  You'll hafta send
some pictures to Bryce so we can all see it.  He did a great job on
everyone's rides, including mine, so go for it.
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:45:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Nitrous-babble 

>
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 08, 1996 7:44AM, Jim (1970 cs conv. 355cid /340hp) 
>wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking of running Nitrous Oxide on my 1970 cs 355cid.

>You cannot run a cheater plate with a higher than stock manifold (in my case 
>an Edelbrock Performer) and the stock OAI  hood on a 455 due to clearance 
>problems.  I had to mill 1" off of my Performer (and lose 500 RPM off the 
>top end flow limit) just to keep my stock OAI air cleaner and hood.  Maybe 
>your small block will have enough clearance, but be aware of this and check 
>things carefully.  The cheater plate adds about 3/4".

     My small block Offy has a port under the rear of the carb flange that
looks like it would accept the NOS injector instead of using their plate.  I
don't know for sure, (Since I've never run nitrous  **Yup, a virgin, I know)
but it looks right.  It might save some hood clearance there.
    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:16:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Verne's Plating



------------------------------

From: Paul Martin <paul@dtm.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 21:15:52 -0300
Subject: Introduction

        Hi my name is Paul Martin from North Vancouver Bc and 
have been an Olds customer since 1971 having owned 15 different 
models in that time frame. I have been a 442 collector and 
restorer since 1982. I currently own the following: 1971 442 w-30 
convertable,frame off restoration completed Mar 1995. A 1970 442 
W-30 post coupe,body on restoration completed Feb 1996. 1972 
Hurst Olds hardtop in origional condition and a 1971 442 W-30 
hardtop that has been a factory stock dray car that will be 
restored this winter. This is a no options all power 4 speed that 
holds the 1976 NHRA record for its class.
        In addition to the hardware I am a family man with two 
teenagers who appreciate car shows and a wife who is tolerant of 
my hobby as long as her garden looks as good as the cars. My 
daily drivers are not worth mentioning.
        I can offer advise to fellow correspondents on some of 
the restoration work I have done. I will have parts for sale 
through the ad section from time to time.
        Looking forward to the newsgroup.

Paul Martin
paul@dtm.bc.ca

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 23:00:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction..... (New guy...) 

In a message dated 96-10-08 14:01:46 EDT, you write:

<< Chris,
 Welcome to the list.  I will put you on the Chicago area list.  Be great if 
 you could join us some time.  We will have to cruise out way out west 
 sometime.
 
Thanks, I saw you guys were getting together here recently, and I'd love to
get there and meet with some other Olds fans out there, but with all the
stuff I've got going on here, I've been rather busy.  I've really gotta get
this car done soon (daily driver) since it's getting colder, and we've just
got the one other car.

 About the crank binding, maybe the main bearing caps have been mixed or 
 possibly turned 180 degrees, maybe the crank is warped, maybe the bearings 
 are oversize.  Someone had their motor sabotaged (bearings [guess it was 
 ground differently at each main], caps mixed) in an engine class and this 
 was the same result.  Took time to figure out.  You might want to have it 
 align bore checked or bored.
 
 David Brown  >>
That's the money thing I was speaking of, I've been quoted $150 to align bore
the crank, and with all the other shit to do on it, I'm holding offand making
the "real" motor a "winter" project of sorts so that come spring I'll get a
real nice weekend, add a day or two of vacation time, and do a weekend motor
swap.  The caps are cast in numbers, so kinda hard to mix there, besides, I
thought of that one too, and the caps seem to mate up fine, and turning the
caps 180 deg. puts the bolt holes WAY off, so I know they're right that way
too.

The crank was checked while sitting in the upper bearing while installed on
the block, went along and put an indicator on all mains, and checked run-out
that way.  I didn't get any from that, and if it was going to show up, that
would do it.  As for the bearing being oversized, the crank would be smaller
than the bearing opening, and it wouldn't have a problem with locking up,
rather it would be loose, besides, the plastigage results (within specs.)
show that it's the right bearings for that crank (can post my actual
findings, indicator, and plastigage, if asked).

I'd guess that it would be possible for the Auto place (local speed shop in
town) that I sent it to for boring, or wherever they sent it to for the
actual bore work could have mixed them up with another motor there, but after
all the shit they gave me over all this, I will just eat the dough, and have
it align bored, and spend my money elsewhere.

Thanks for the ideas on what to check.  It always helps to have someone else
looking at the situation with fresh eyes.

See ya, Chris.

------------------------------

From: ImaLsrBaby@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 23:13:38 -0300
Subject: Scott Mullen thanks but...(a very long reply) 

Scott; 

     I appreciate your comments but I think you misunderstood what my
question was. Maybe I should explain myself. I am not a rookie at this. I
have had much experience with this as I have owned and opertated an Auto
Parts Store and Machine Shop with a small speed shop, and have built race
engines for some years.
     Of course you're right. Nitrous (n2o) has the effect of lowering
temperatures in the manifold weather using a cheater plate or using direct
injection (since there is no true form of direct liquid injection because the
liquid boils when exposed to temps above -89.5 c degrees). This condition
does in fact allow for greater fuel air density as you mentioned.
     However, by weight n2o contains 36% oxygen and 64% nitrogen. Natural air
by weight contains 23% oxygen and 77% nitrogen. Nitrogen is a heat dampening
agent mearly by the effect that it remains unburned during the combustion
process thereby absorbing heat and being exausted. Much like the lead did in
leaded fuel.
     If you follow the above information you will see that the main reason
why n2o super heats the cylinder is because when mixed with natural air it
reduces the overall % of nitrogen and increases the overall % of oxygen. A
deadly combination.
     The preignition detonation you mentioned is not the cause of fractured
pistons. This is a common misconception. Detonation: the improper burning of
endgasses (oxygen in a lean condition) combined with high heat causes these
unburned gases to adhere to super heated metals (now porous) in the cylinder
and oxidizing them and/ or to explode altogether. Effectually the same result
as adding oxygen to acetalene. Preignition is a result of improper engine
timing.
     MY question was merely in relation to the % of natural air inducted when
using the OAI vs n2o induction as a % of the overall charge. It may sound
like babble to you, but my direct concern is how the additional natural air
charge caused by opening the OAI will effect the total % of nitrogen and
oxygen found in the charge. Will the additional OAI air just never make it to
the cylinder? Will it lower the oxygen % of the charge? Or, will the overall
% increase causing the detonation charateristics to increase?
     By the way this is exatly the reason why the cheater plates you
mentioned ARE adjustable. Because supertuning an n2o system to take the
engine to the detonation threshold without detonating a cylinder is a very
exact science.    

Sorry if this sounds hostile. It was not my intention.

Thanks

Jim

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 23:34:49 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobiles on film

At 03:41 10/05/1996 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone else know of Oldsmobiles on the silver screen?
>
>DrkSole
> 73 Cutlass supreme
> 67 Delta 88 (coming soon)
>  Deadite.
>
Yes,I think I saw an Olds wagon in the movie "Lethal Weapon III".It's Danny
Glovers family wagon. I don't know the year,but it sure takes a beating and
keeps running for them through the movie. There is also an Olds in the movie
"Tommy Boy". I'm not certain of this ones year/make + model either,but it
was a blue convertible and it, too, got beat up through the movie but still
got them home. Gotta love those Oldsmobiles.....

 
Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 18:17:00 -0300
Subject: FW: Re: Olds hp ratings

 ----------
From: Darren Shroeger
To: mullenrs; r_mullen
Subject: Re: Re: Olds hp ratings
Date: Tuesday, October 08, 1996 8:01AM



> what was then my daily driver!!  The Mondello JM 20-22 cam now in my car 
is
> much smoother idle, and a broad, fat torque curve.  Car pulls from 1800 to
> 5500 RPM.  I wish I had bought the JM 22-25.

Wow Scott,
Ironic that you should pose this query as I just spoke with Joe Mondello 
last
Thursday about the big question: Which Mondello Cam To Buy.

I rattled off all of the pertinent details to JM:

Engine: '68 Toronado 455, stock 10.5:1 pistons in good shape, rods cut w/
Mondello's suggested oilflow notch, oil restrictors in block, Nodular crank
at *standard* size only needed polish, C heads with hard exh seats 
installed,
teflon valve seals, valve guides clearanced for higher lift cam per JM spec,
W&Z manifolds, 70 Quadrajet, 70 Steel Olds 4V intake, etc...

Rearend: 12-bolt 3.73:1 '69 GTO rear end, just scored this one! Was looking
*forever* seemed like. Possibly the perfect ratio for my use, we'll see!

JM said that the 20-22 would be good, but the 22-25 would be great, 
especially
if run with 2.5" exhaust all the way back. He said I had enough gear to run
that cam, BUT that I'd need to install his roller rocker valvetrain ($359)
or the rocker geometry wouldn't be right.

I spoke to Chris Witt about this and he said he's running the
even-more-radical 28-29 on the race engine with no problems. He just used
steel shims under the rocker pedastals to attain close-to-correct geometry.

Chris did say that he thought that the $359 wasn't bad at all for the roller
rocker set: It works better (roll vs. slide), it fits RIGHT (no machine shop
botch-jobs necessary), and it's the trickest way to go.

So now I'm counting my pennies, will talk to Joe again tomorrow and then
order the goods!

Will keep you posted...

 -Darren Shroeger
 '68 442 / 4-speed
 '80 GP Partsrunner / 350 Oldspowered!
 <redhead@mailmasher.com> *new email address*

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:47:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Chicago Meet vs Boston Meet

Roger M. Borlase wrote:
> 
> >> 4 guys, no spouses, no kids.  3 cars:  A Tororanado, ...
> >                         A  WHAT ???       ^^^^^^^^^^
> 
> Sorry Mike,
> I was under the influence of thinking about breaking up with my 
> girlfriend...

No problem.

> Roger Borlase   (the lonely single guy)

...soon to have his head caved in when the plane lands.   :o

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 17:54:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Rallye 350 show...

Chris Urban wrote:
> 
> Where is englishtown Raceway located? 
Dunno.  Who's buried in Grant's Tomb?   ;)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:33:38 -0300
Subject: Re: VH-1 Sacrilage 

>>  Did you notice the oversize Shevy emblem that was on the left side of the 
>> decklid right next to the tail lights?
>
>No, I must've blocked the sissy bow tie when it appeared... Blasphemers!

That's loony. Are you sure it wasn't, say, the dealer plate from
a Chevy dealer selling used cars?

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:01:50 -0300
Subject: Tamaraz (was: 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme) 

Henry,
     
You may want to try Tamraz' in Plainfield.
     
     I bought a front bumper for my 70 442 from them a few years ago, and I 
     must say I was a little disappointed in the quality.  There were 
     several spots on the bumper where the copper plating actually showed 
     through the chrome.  I did not attempt to resolve this with them at 
     the time due to more pressing personal committments (divorce and the 
     need to TDY to Arizona for several months) and the fact that the car 
     needed a lot more before I got to the point of worrying about the 
     chrome on the bumper...
     
     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:58:14 -0300
Subject: "Illegal in Ca" 

The only way to run such parts in Ca. is to swap them in/out and retain
the stock parts for state inspections. Or get smog cert. from a friendly
and compliant mechanic who will bear risk  of losing state certification
if he's found to be b.s.'ing the state on the state of the vehicles he
inspects. My mods have been limited to a holley carb which I swap back
and forth every 2 years
cf

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:13:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Ran Great (Slant 6)

> I'm a GM guy in general, and an Olds fan in particular, but you gotta
admit
> Chrysl*r built at least one historically decent mill -- the Slant 6.
 
> Tim Churchill

I second that, Tim.  In my experience with these (they were the big thing
with many friends in my youth), the Slant 6 was at least as reliable as the
Olds engines I've known (ducks for cover as tomatos and other rotten
material fly my way).  It's true, though.  Here in salty Ontario, wrecking
yards were full of them with rusted out bodies or snapped torsion bars; I
swear you could still hear the Slant 6s running (or wishing they were).

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:13:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Introduction 

>>My mechanic said a clogged catalytic converter damaged an injector 
>>and the oxygen sensor.
>
>Umm, wait a minute.  How does ~that~ work?  A damaged injector 
>and/or a damaged oxygen sensor ~might~ damage the convertor, but I 
>don't see it being likely or even possible for that phenomenon to 
>occur in reverse (or drive for that matter!:)

Agreed. Might be more accurate to say that when a car ages to the 
point where its convertor goes bad, the O2 sensor is probably worn 
out anyway, and chances are that at least one of its six or eight 
injectors would flunk inspection if someone bothered to look at them.

Isn't armchair quarterbacking fun?  ;-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #325
********************************
 
