To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca@INTERNET1
cc:	 
From:	oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca@INTERNET1 @ ABTLAB
Date:	11/08/96 09:03:19 AM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #357


oldsmobile-digest         Friday, 8 November 1996      Volume 01 :
Number 357


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Richard Bonazzoli <bonazzoli@5onflr.ENET.dec.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:32:47 -0400
Subject: Re: rear anti-sway bar question

The 70-81 F-body front sway bar swap can indeed be done.  I just did
this last August on a '69 Cutlass.

Try to get a bar from a WS6 Trans-AM.  The bar is 1.25" and is
noticeably larger than non-ws6 cars.  Stay away from generic Firebirds
and Camaro's, as the bars are much smaller.  Even with the non-ws6 TA's
there are a few different sizes, so be careful.

You will not be able to retain the stock frame mounts, and I could not
use the ones from the TA either.  I went with the mounts and bushings
from energy suspension which cost about $15.00.  These mounts have
slotted mount holes, so they fit a variety of cars.  You must match the
bushing size with the bar size.  Using 1 1/8" bushing on a 1 1/4" bar
will not work coreectly.

This swap makes a noticeable difference in handling.

On the subject of boxed vs. non-boxed rear trailing arms, go with the
boxed. I have seen a non-boxed arm ripped apart by using a rear sway bar
and spacers. It is simply not strong enough.

Rich Bonazzoli

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:42:41 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

On  7 Nov 96 at 13:03, C.R.F. wrote:

> I've believe I've seen crate motors from Chevrolet listed in the
											^^^^^^^^^^!

Blasphemy!  Charlie, do you have the lynch ready?

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442 - OLDS POWERED!

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:45:00 -0400
Subject: Maaco paint jobs

>Subject: Re: ID Question -Reply
>Blaine wrote:
 - --snip--
> Check the door jambs, etc. and see if the new paint was a cheapie
> Maaco job.  If it's a high quality paint job, it won't be obvious
without
 - --snip--
>>I have a Maaco paint job on my 1968 442 and it is beautiful.  No
problems. >>Chris Sparks _________ I had my '69 4-4-2 painted there
about 8 years ago.  They did an excellent, and I mean EXCELLANT job on
it.  I removed all the chrome first, and did a lot of prep work, but I
think the secret with them, is to not rush them.  I left it there for
about 3 months.  I checked on it periodically, and had to put some fire
under their butts after 2 1/2 months, but the end result was a showroom
finish that exceeded my expectations.  Now, on the other side of the
coin, I bought my '69 Cutlass Convertible about a year and a half ago,
and it already had a Maaco job.  It was the poorest excuse of a paint
job I have ever seen.  It looks great from 10 feet away, but when you
start looking at it closely, they didn't remove any chrome, and there
is overspray EVERYWHERE.  They even took a little paintbrush and tried
to dab paint inside the Cutlass script emblem on the front fenders, and
got paint ALL over the emblems.

Just my .02 cents worth,

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Richard Bonazzoli <bonazzoli@5onflr.ENET.dec.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:55:03 -0400
Subject: Wanted:  Olds big block

I am searching for a big block olds engine for my '69 Cutlass
4 speed.  I will consider engines needing a rebuild or ready to bolt in.
Since I am located in central Massachusetts, the engine will have to be
within driving distance for me to pick up.  Please respond to me if you
know of any for sale.

Thanks,

Rich Bonazzoli
Bonazzoli@5onflr.enet.dec.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:52:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Maaco paint jobs

>They even took a little paintbrush and tried to dab paint
>inside the Cutlass script emblem on the front fenders, and got paint
ALL >over the emblems.

*urp*

Let's keep in mind here that MAACO is a franchise. Certainly there
should be a little quality control exercised by the parent company,
but for the most part the paint job's only as good as the outfit
doing the work: there are conscientious MAACO places and probably
some dismal ones. I'd be a lot more concerned with getting local
recommendations for the specific body shop in my area and perhaps
not as concerned over whose sign is out front (though certainly
the kind of warranty they offer would be one of my concerns).

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:49:00 -0400
Subject: Parts cars vs. Project cars

I have been quite amused by the different qualifications everyone seems
to have when it come to advice on buying a "vintage" Olds. The 69 that
was mentioned today sounded to me like a decent project car and the
price was fair for the condition. Someone from southern CA thought it
might be a parts car at best. On the other hand someone from way up
north may think it is almost cherry due to small amount of body damage.
You must consider what is available in your area when buying a car.
Don't take someones advice as gospel. The western and southern guys may
think it is junk while the northern guys would kill to get their hands
on it. I am here in the midwest and am always amazed at the solid bodies
 (of all makes) that are wasted by the movie and TV folks. Maybe we
need to send the rusty stuff out west and bring back the good stuff for
the rest of us.

Dave Wyatt  70 4-4-2
Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 06:05:15 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

     Boring it out won't give you a whole lot more cubes.  Especially
with
     the 307's thin wall casting which doesn't leave a whole lot more to

     bore out.  I think you'd be doing good to get 10 more cid out of
this
     by boring it over.

     If you're just after a big more oomph and don't want a 13.0 second
     time slip, then you can upgrade the 307 to it's high-output
     counterpart.  The normal 307 was 140hp and the H/O version was
180hp.
     The differences are noted in the FAQ, along with the GM part
numbers
     required.  Ported heads (and maybe shaved for a bit more
compression)
     would make a difference too.  Still, I think the price for these
     upgrades would be about the same or more as buying a 350 core and
     rebuilding it.

     Tom Lentz

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: '87 307 engine Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    11/7/96 7:49 AM


Hey everyone,
       I was wandering if instead of swapping a 350 in my cutlass, could
I
     just have the 307 bored out? I know this wouldn't make it a 350 but

     would I be able to get more horsepower out if it, especially if I
     matched it with a bigger cam, changed the compression, and have the

     heads ported?

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:09:59 -0400
Subject: Maaco paint jobs - the moral of the story

Once again, I've made a fool out of myself.  There's actually two morals
here...  1) Man who spouts mouth before knowing facts looks very
foolish.  & 2) Maaco does good job if given time.  But it will cost you
more than $199.95 ;)

------------------------------

From: kiss74@worldnet.att.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:47:07 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      Boring it out won't give you a whole lot more cubes.  Especially
with >      the 307's thin wall casting which doesn't leave a whole lot
more to >      bore out.  I think you'd be doing good to get 10 more cid
out of this >      by boring it over. > >      If you're just after a
big more oomph and don't want a 13.0 second >      time slip, then you
can upgrade the 307 to it's high-output >      counterpart.  The normal
307 was 140hp and the H/O version was 180hp. >      The differences are
noted in the FAQ, along with the GM part numbers >      required.
Ported heads (and maybe shaved for a bit more compression) >      would
make a difference too.  Still, I think the price for these >
upgrades would be about the same or more as buying a 350 core and >
rebuilding it. > >      Tom Lentz > > ______________________________
Reply Separator _________________________________ > Subject: '87 307
engine > Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET > Date:
11/7/96 7:49 AM > > Hey everyone, >        I was wandering if instead
of swapping a 350 in my cutlass, could I >      just have the 307 bored
out? I know this wouldn't make it a 350 but >      would I be able to
get more horsepower out if it, especially if I >      matched it with a
bigger cam, changed the compression, and have the >      heads ported?
Please, think about doing this.......... I got a 69'350 bottom end ,and
"C" casting heads on top. The only way to do this is to use the Pref.
RPM intake from Elderbrock. My 69' olds runs consistant 13.0?et in a 69
W-31. If you are going to build a Small cube Olds think about doing
this. If you have any more questions just ask. doing a 307 would be a
waste of time and money. Josh

------------------------------

From: kiss74@worldnet.att.net
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:54:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts cars vs. Project cars

david wyatt wrote:
>
> I have been quite amused by the different qualifications everyone
seems > to have when it come to advice on buying a "vintage" Olds. The
69 that > was mentioned today sounded to me like a decent project car
and the > price was fair for the condition. Someone from southern CA
thought it > might be a parts car at best. On the other hand someone
from way up > north may think it is almost cherry due to small amount of
body damage. > You must consider what is available in your area when
buying a car. > Don't take someones advice as gospel. The western and
southern guys may > think it is junk while the northern guys would kill
to get their hands > on it. I am here in the midwest and am always
amazed at the solid bodies > (of all makes) that are wasted by the movie
and TV folks. Maybe we need > to send the rusty stuff out west and bring
back the good stuff for the > rest of us. > > Dave Wyatt  70 4-4-2 >
Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com





PREACH IT BROTHER DAVE!!!!!!!!!
Can I get an AMEN?!!!!!!!!
I agree totaly!!!!!!

Josh

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 10:02:07 -0400
Subject: BRAND NEW '70 - '72 BODY PANELS

Hello all,
  I recieved this notice from someone on our page and thought I
would highlight it.  Eventhough I own a '68 442 Convertable (and
wish to God that someone would pull out the stamping dies for my
Q-panels), there IS a place in Detroit who are licensed by GM to
stamp FULL (not skins) real quarter panels (and I think fender and
doors too) for '70 - '72 Cutlass/442's.  I'm sure this is
INCREDIBLE news for all of the owners of the vehicles of these
years.  I wish you all good luck -- they're name is New Center
Stamping (Detroit, MI) and they're phone # is 810-239-9510.
Unfortunatly for the rest of us, our time hasn't come yet.  But I
have heard (several people in my family work for GM (Harrison
Radiator -air conditioners and condensers in Lockport NY, for those
of you with A/C, look at the stickers on your units-- and I have
been told that either GM is/will be stamping new panels for their
classic vehicles, or in this case will license a stamper to make
full panels for their vehicles).  Good luck and happy dialing to
all of you with '70 -'72's.

Bye,
Craig Dobbins
Lockport, N.Y.
1968 442 convertable.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 14:59:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts cars vs. Project cars

>> I am here in the midwest and am always amazed at the solid bodies
>> (of all makes) that are wasted by the movie and TV folks. Maybe we
need >> to send the rusty stuff out west and bring back the good stuff
for the >> rest of us. > >PREACH IT BROTHER DAVE!!!!!!!!! >Can I get an
AMEN?!!!!!!!! >I agree totaly!!!!!!

My idea of the perfect trip out west would be to take Amtrak out there
('cause I like trains), buy a nice vintage car and drive it back here.
If I decide not to keep it, at least I can polish it up and sell it to
recover the cost of my trip.  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:14:38 -0400
Subject: 66 tri-power cheap now

Here ya go, folks.
I'd buy it if I could, just to be the 1st kid on the block w/ TWO such
setups... I haven't the resources to move on it at this time... so y'all
can duke it out over it. He wants to buy a '68 442 body/chassis to play
with.

if you buy it, you will of course fwd me a nice finder's fee; say,
photos of that solid-main-web 403 you all have one of, RIGHT? Heh.
Forged 455 cranks, etc. -Chris-

> From rottin@coil.com Wed Nov  6 21:48:37 1996
> From: "Kenneth G. Holland Jr." <rottin@coil.com>
> Reply-To: rottin@coil.com
>
> 1966 Olds 3x2 manifold with correct carbs (all rebuilt), choke, heat
> riser cut outs and all linkage.
> NO air cleaners or fule lines.
>
> first $850 takes it.
> Ken
> Cleveland, Ohio
> rottin@coil.com

- --
Chris  B. Witt
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: kissrulz@gnn.com (Craig Dobbins)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 10:15:55 -0400
Subject: Junkyard Gold - ANY '68 PARTS????

Hello,

  I am looking for parts for my '68 442 convertable.  Anything for
that laying around anywhere?  Specifically the headlight housings
(silver/grey piece that encases each set of headlights on either
side), and either '68 or '69 SOLID convertable quarter panels.  I'd
be interesed though in hearing what other parts you may have, I'm
always hoarding extra parts for my car.

Please return either way,

Craig Dobbins.
Lockport, N.Y.

------------------------------

From: bryceman@442.com (Bryceman)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:15:48 -0400
Subject: Re: BRAND NEW '70 - '72 BODY PANELS

>  I recieved this notice from someone on our page and thought I
>would highlight it.  Eventhough I own a '68 442 Convertable (and
>wish to God that someone would pull out the stamping dies for my
>Q-panels), there IS a place in Detroit who are licensed by GM to
>stamp FULL (not skins) real quarter panels (and I think fender and
>doors too) for '70 - '72 Cutlass/442's.  I'm sure this is
>INCREDIBLE news for all of the owners of the vehicles of these
>years.  I wish you all good luck -- they're name is New Center
>Stamping (Detroit, MI) and they're phone # is 810-239-9510.

I just called 'em. They said they were only doing rear quarters for
70-72 Ch*velle. Bummer, but thanks for the lead. I am more than happy to
follow up ANY lead like this I get.

           Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '72 Cutlass Convertible
            Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:35:59 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: '87 307 engine

For more of this blasphemy, check out the Dec Car Craft.  Ok, for
project Olds Craft, how about some Ch*vys (maybe a Yenko or two)
converted to a real engine?

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Olds FAQ 2.0 at: http://www.en.com/users/thall/
                 ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ---------

> I've believe I've seen crate motors from Chevrolet listed in the
           ^^^^^^^^^^!

Blasphemy!  Charlie, do you have the lynch ready?

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442 - OLDS POWERED!

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:44:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Gold - ANY '68 PARTS????

Craig Dobbins wrote:

>   I am looking for parts for my '68 442 convertable.  Anything for
> that laying around anywhere?  Specifically the headlight housings
> (silver/grey piece that encases each set of headlights on either

Mine is cracking a little.  I wonder how much these things are?

> side), and either '68 or '69 SOLID convertable quarter panels.  I'd
> be interesed though in hearing what other parts you may have, I'm
> always hoarding extra parts for my car.

I wished I had the room to hoard.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Paul Martin <paul@dtm.bc.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:39:03 -0400
Subject: $5000 engine job??

    From firewall.dtm.bc.ca!chebucto.ns.ca!oldsmobile-owner Wed Nov  6
20:19:32 1996
    Message-Id: <199611070411.UAA20405@dfw-ix11.ix.netcom.com>
    From: bemet <bemet@ix.netcom.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
    MMDF-Warning:  Parse error in original version of preceding line at
dtm.bc.ca
    Subject: $5000 engine job??
    Date:Wed, 6 Nov 1996 20:06:37 -0800
    X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
    X-Priority: 3
    X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1155
    MIME-Version: 1.0
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
    Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
    Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
    Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca


    Just had the engine in my '71 442 W 30 rebuilt. The bill says $
5000, after
    a 3,000 original oral estimate.

    Anybody have any experience as to whether it's even possible to pay
that
    much for an engine rebuild? On a scale of reasonable charges, is
this off
    the chart or not all that unreasonable?

    Thanks.


I have paid up to $3000 which included all new internal parts
,crank pistons valves etc and  know 2 people who invested
$8000.00. What they got was a nice 13 second solid engine that
can be driven on the street. One guy has put over 30,000 miles on
his car since the rebuild. You get what you pay for . I have also
spent as little as $1500 and had nothing buT grief.

Paul Martin

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:01:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Gold - ANY '68 PARTS????

Only Olds parts that I have are mainly 78 and newer. I do have the
following parts cars: 69 Delta 88 350/2bbl and a 72 Toro.

At 02:15 PM 11/7/96, Craig Dobbins wrote:
>Hello,
>
>  I am looking for parts for my '68 442 convertable.  Anything for
>that laying around anywhere?  Specifically the headlight housings
>(silver/grey piece that encases each set of headlights on either
>side), and either '68 or '69 SOLID convertable quarter panels.  I'd
>be interesed though in hearing what other parts you may have, I'm
>always hoarding extra parts for my car.
>
>Please return either way,
>
>Craig Dobbins.
>Lockport, N.Y.
>
>
>
>
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Sports Administration graduate student at Kent State University
88 Camaro Iroc-Z/28...see it in the December issue of Chevy High
Performance 80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30.... see it at
http://www.442.com/labay.html

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 18:52:06 -0400
Subject: Chris Brown Witt's Story

All,

For those that want a copy, Chris Brown Witt's story of
R E Olds can be downloaded from the Toro Links page at:
http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:05:21 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

Cliff Feiler wrote:

> There are several ways to up the compression in an engine.
>
>         Use what amounts to a larger piston, more piston above the
pin, a > domed piston, remove some of the top deck of the block.  Get
heads with > smaller combustion chambers.  Where can you buy gasoline on
a regular basis > good enough for a 10.25, much less more?  The use of a
blower (supercharger) > will up the effective compression ratio.  That's
all I can think of.

A supercharger would be "relative" easy add on.  Do such beasts exist
for a 68 442.  Will something like this work with a dual snorkel air
cleaner (no I don't have one, but would like one)?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:03:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Junk in the front yard

Chuck Rowe wrote:
>
> The Nazis can march there but just let 'em try to work on their cars.

Go figure.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:04:11 -0400
Subject: Re: $5000 engine job??

>Just had the engine in my '71 442 W 30 rebuilt. The bill says $ 5000,
after >a 3,000 original oral estimate. > >Anybody have any experience as
to whether it's even possible to pay that >much for an engine rebuild?
On a scale of reasonable charges, is this off >the chart or not all that
unreasonable?

Is that a typo??  $5,000.00??  Man, I could build an incredible engine
for $5000!!  That is way off the scale for a stock rebuild! - -- Dave
Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Melbourne,
Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:08:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Rights vs Obligations

BobH592058@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In FL, homeowners associations are very powerful.  As described to me
> by an attorney they are like a small municipality able to pass rules
> and collect taxes in the form of dues.

Yeah, up to a point.  The difficulty with such associations, since they
are not a government entity, they are not subject to Sunshine laws. So
they can get away with a lot of stuff if they really want to.
- -- which is troubling to me.

> There's a difference versus some elected official telling me what is
> good for me and using my tax money to force it down my throat.

Agreed.

> The steady erosion of personal rights by _government_ is very
troubling > to me.

And me.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 05:29:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Maaco paint jobs - the moral of the story

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> Once again, I've made a fool out of myself.  There's actually two
morals > here...  1) Man who spouts mouth before knowing facts looks
very > foolish.  & 2) Maaco does good job if given time.  But it will
cost you more > than $199.95 ;)

Hey Blaine, how much did you spend on your paint job?

Fernando

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:18:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Wanted:  Olds big block

At 12:55 PM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I am searching for a big block olds engine for my '69 Cutlass
>4 speed.  I will consider engines needing a rebuild or ready to bolt
in. >Since I am located in central Massachusetts, the engine will have
to be within >driving distance for me to pick up.  Please respond to me
if you know of any >for sale.

Rich,

I'm in Providence, and I'm not about to part out my '69 Toronado, but
I'll keep an eye out for any big-block motors or cars that may fit your
bill.

One thing you may want to do is to check out the online-edition of the
Bargain News, which is at http://www.bargainnews.com . The coverage
centers on Connecticut, which should be in driving range for you (avoid
the 718 area code, which is NYC, and 914 which is Long Island). There
are always cars and engines there that I would like to have but which I
can't afford or store (though that's never stopped me before!).

Good luck, and whatever you buy, make sure the crank is drilled for the
pilot bearing (or else you'll get an unpleasant surprise when you go to
bolt up the tranny; no, cutting 1/2" off the input shaft is _not_ an
option! ;) _______________________________________________________ Dr.
Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept,
Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:11:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leak

Gang,

     Ok, well today I am going to bring my 68 442 back to the mechanic
who fixed the rear/front main seal and intake manifold gasket.  As some
of you know, from reading previous e-mails, I had the above done along
with the oil pan gasket being replaced.  Where else can an engine leak
oil from? I check to see if I am leaking antifreeze, but can't spot
anything.  As a side note I noticed that I go through antifreeze at a
rate that seems suspicious.  The 77 C/S I had would barely lose a drop
of antifreeze.  I know that the 68 probably runs hotter.  Could this be
the reason?

The leak seems to be eminating from below the passenger's side of the
engine. Down below were you can't see.  Any hints before I go to him.  I
probably need some ammunition see he knows that I am not a mechanically
- weenie. I just write software :-)

Let me know

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:18:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds carb jets

At 10:13 AM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>Where can I get these puppies since they are now discontinued at the
>>local auto store.
>>
>The only place I have been able to find Rochester Jets and Metering
Rods is >from a GM dealer. I called every auto parts store in town
before finding >this out.

Well, now that Edelbrock is selling its own versions of the Quadrajet,
it provides tuning packs, with rods, jets, etc, for tuning your carb;
these are listed in the Summit catalog. I also believe that the
specialty carb places (The Carb Shop, Barry Grant, etc.) sell such
tuning kits; check for their ads in the back of Hot Rod and the like.
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:18:48 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

At 10:29 AM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>       I was wandering if instead of swapping a 350 in my cutlass,
could I >just have the 307 bored out? I know this wouldn't make it a 350
but would I >be able to get more horsepower out if it, especially if I
matched it with a >bigger cam, changed the compression, and have the
heads ported? I would like >to keep the computer in the car although I
don't really have to worry about >emissions.

Start with a pre-'77 350; parts are cheaper, and you'll get more power.
Whatever you do to your 307 you could do to the 350, and get 30-60 more
hp out of it. _______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept,
Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:18:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Carburetor problems with our Ninety Eight -64

At 10:32 AM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey gang,
>
>Did the 68 442 come standard with a Rochester Quadrajet carb?

That was the only carb available on the 442 from 1967 through 1987,
standard or optional. Except maybe the Rochester 2-bbl on the 442
"appearance-package" cars of the decade of the '70's.
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:23:23 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

At 03:05 PM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>         Use what amounts to a larger piston, more piston above the
pin, a >> domed piston, remove some of the top deck of the block.  Get
heads with >> smaller combustion chambers.  Where can you buy gasoline
on a regular basis >> good enough for a 10.25, much less more?  The use
of a blower (supercharger) >> will up the effective compression ratio.
That's all I can think of. > >A supercharger would be "relative" easy
add on.  Do such beasts exist for >a 68 442.  Will something like this
work with a dual snorkel air cleaner >(no I don't have one, but would
like one)? > >Chris Sparks

Hmm, big ol' snorkles running from the carbs on top of the 6-71 sticking
out from the hood, back _into_ the hood and down under the bumper...
Would probably look like something out of "Mad Max, Part III- The Olds
Years"...

Figure on about $2500-$3000 for the blower parts (manifold, drive,
blower, carbs, linkage, air cleaners, hood work), plus whatever it took
to get the engine ready for the boost (forged low-compression pistons,
O-ringed heads, cam, decent bottom-end work, etc.).

This, of course, is for a roots-type blower; centrifugal ones are not
readily available for the Olds motors (though of course anything could
be made to work).
_______________________________________________________ Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:50:36 -0400
Subject: RE: $5000 engine job??

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCCC3.C05B0460
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Sure its possible but you'd better have a lot of new speed parts in
there and it better be putting out 500+hp

- ----------
From: 	bemet[SMTP:bemet@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 	Wednesday, November 06, 1996 11:06 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	$5000 engine job??

Just had the engine in my '71 442 W 30 rebuilt. The bill says $ 5000,
after a 3,000 original oral estimate.

Anybody have any experience as to whether it's even possible to pay that
much for an engine rebuild? On a scale of reasonable charges, is this
off the chart or not all that unreasonable?

Thanks.






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------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 17:14:12 -0400
Subject: MAACO and other franchises

>>>>I suppose it depends on what kind of day your Maaco man is
having.  I've seen several Maaco jobs that are completely
worthless...<<<<

Maaco is a franchise operation as are Century 21 real estate offices and
lots of well known names in merchandising.  As the ads say (usually in
very fine print) "each (fill in the blank) is independantly owned and
operated".

The point is you frequently can't really tell what your getting into
with a franchise owner.  Some of the companies which sell the franchises
have a great deal of control.  Like McDonalds.  That's why they are 90%
of the time completely predicable on what you will get.  A Big Mac in
L.A. tastes the same as a Big Mac in Toronto.

Less controlled franchises are a real crap shoot.  Ignore the name,
check with previous customers to get a feel for the reputation and
quality of work/service.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: "Edward O'Malley" <viperle@xnet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 20:10:04 -0400
Subject: My 1972 olds cutlass "s"

I am wondering if my car which is all original has a build sheet in it
and if it does where can I find it at.  Any help would be greatly
appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Stephen Lesniak <sxl149@psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 18:20:18 -0400
Subject: Re: rear anti-sway bar question

You don't have to find a WS6 TA to get a 1.25" front anti-sway bar.  My
TA(before everyone gasps, it has a 403 OLDS) that has a 1.25" bar.
Also, my father and I found a 1.25" bar on a Plain Jane Firebird in the
junkyard for our 65 Cutlass.  Also, if you are interested, the power
booster, and spindles should bolt up to your car.  This drops the front
end about an 1".  Of course there is more to it than just bolting it up,
but it is relatively easy.  Also, you can stiffen your front end by
adding larger dia. end links and using polyurethane or polygraphite
bushings instead of the rubber ones.  If you can't find the sway bar you
can mail order it from various places, even larger diameters.

Hope this helped.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 18:12:37 -0400
Subject: Re: MAACO and other franchises

>Less controlled franchises are a real crap shoot.  Ignore the name,
check >with previous customers to get a feel for the reputation and
quality of >work/service.

Hear, hear. *Especially* for body work -- Let's face it, it's labor
intensive and is a skilled trade. A lot of bozos who can do a very
decent water pump installation would be hopeless at bodywork, myself
included, but some of those bozos are running body shops anyway. It's
not much comfort having to fall back on a warranty _after_ they've
screwed up your car.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: ndg@traverse.com (Nielsen Design Group)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 18:29:00 -0400
Subject: Found Dell's original owner!

Did a little Switchboard research (www.switchboard.com), & found a phone
number for the original owner of my lovely 68 Delmont today. So I gave
Mr. Preston P. Joyes, Jr. a call at his winter home in Louisville,
Kentucky.

That's where Dell came from, alright: Louisville. I kinda had a clue to
this based on the 'Jim Hendrix Service Station, Louisville, Kentucky'
sticker on the radiator shroud (Jimi, man! Won't be removing that
sticker).

Dell was originally Mr. Joyes' father's company car for Brown Lumber
Company in Louisville. He made sales calls in her for a year, and then
bought her from the company. The Senior Mr. Joyes had health problems
and died the following year (1970), so Dell was only driven rarely by
Mrs. Joyes. Her health was also deteriorating, so she hired a man to
drive her to the beauty shop and whatnot. The car was driven less than
3,000 miles per year for its next 18 years. And always garaged.

Upon Mrs. Joyes death around Christmas 1988, the car was handed on to
Mr. Joyes Jr. who brought her up to their vacation home in Leland,
Michigan. From 1989 to present, the car remained parked in the garage
and was driven "to the golf course and such" when they came up to visit
in the summer.

Mr. Joyes was thrilled to speak with the current owner of "The Olds" as
he called her. He reminisced about what a great car she was, and piped
up with, "Boy, when you step on that pedal she really goes!"

[mental picture of Chris Witt burning the rear tires to clouds of white
smoke in front of The Lansing Motor Division building last Saturday]

"Yeah, she runs pretty good," I smugly replied.

Anyway, Mr. Joyes wants me to come visit him next summer and show him
the car. "Maybe you can figure out how to get the radio working. And get
the speedometer hooked up."

"And the low beams!" I added. Dell's low beams aren't working right at
the moment... I'm afraid to mess around with it too much and farg up the
rare Guide Matic circuit. Ideas, anyone?

So I plan to photo her extensively before she gets put up fer storage on
Sunday. I may even try to recreate that prescious Witt-instigated moment
of white-smoke rear tire burning! Ought to make for a fun addition to
Bryce's Olds Owners Registry...

- -Darren Shroeger
 Teal Blue 68 442 4 spd; Juneau Gray 68 Delmont

Nielsen Design Group
114 East Front Street
Traverse City, Michigan 49684
t:616.946.0925
f:616.946.2363
e:ndg@traverse.com

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:26:00 -0400
Subject: front susp. tip and heat shield #

Someone wrote in that the bolts used to connect their upper control arm
shafts to the frame were spot welded to the frame.  This was probably
done to prevent them from rotating while tightening/loosening the nuts
during alignment shim addition/removal.  The correct solution to this
problem is to replace the bolts with the correct ones from GM.  These
correct bolts have large raised ribs on the shank of the bolt that grip
the frame and allow you to loosen/tighten the nut without having the
bolt spin.  I ruined these ribs when attempting to remove the bolts
with a wrench during my front end rebuild on my '70 442.  They should
be tapped in or out with a hammer.  DO NOT attempt to "unscrew" these
bolts, or you will ruin the vital ribs on the shank.  In case you are
interested, the part number for the correct bolt (at least for my '70
442) is 381909.  I got mine from a Chevy dealer, who gave me the ones
that fit a '70 Chevelle. 1990 price was $0.95 each.  You'll need 4.  I
highly recommend buying 8, so you'll have a complete spare set.  These
bolts were in stock.

Another nice part to pick up at the GM counter is # 3969837 Insulator
assembly.  This is a nifty aluminum carb heat shield that mounts between
the carb and the intake manifold.  It ended my heat soak problems.  I
had to slightly modify it to allow for carb linkage clearance and a
vacuum port fitting on my intake.  It has the firing order stamped in
it , and comes with gaskets.  1990 price was $13.92.  This is for the
Qjet, although as I recall a Holley one was available.  Why buy an
aftermarket shield when you can get the GM one.  Helps hide nitrous
cheater plates too!  Since it is a GM part with the part # clearly
stamped into it, I think it qualifies as stock.

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Brian Cizas <bscizas@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:01:01 -0400
Subject: Body Style Plate

Can somebody please decode the body style plate on my 1963 Olds F85?  I
know that there are some people in this list that are excellent at doing
this.  TIA


04A

Style:  63:3117

Trim: 955

Body: BC 5591

Paint:  LLA

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:05:18 -0400
Subject: Junkyard

Hah!  I found an original Delco/Remy voltage regulator on a Cutlass in
the junkyard.  Cool!  Now I just have to clean up the cover, repaint it,
and put the cover on my voltage regulator!  Then I'll have that
"original" looking voltage regulator.  Neat.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 08:19:03 -0400
Subject: Found  '72 C/S- may part it out

Hey guys/gals,
	I found a car just sitting doing nothing. The onwer wants to sell the
entire car. The car is a '72 Cutlass Supreme. Here's the VIN number
3J57K2M....  It has a 4 BBl with original air cleaner, blue ex. with
white interior. Buckets, and floor console. The interior is in good
shape but not too sure about the front seats, as there were seat covers
on them, however the owner assures me by phone they are in good shape.
The exterior doesn't seem to be suffering from any rust. For those of
you that needed the front panels, I think these are in good shape.
E-mail me if interested.

One question, can we tell by the VIN # if the car has a limited slip
diff. It's a 4 barrel, would that be enough to have a LSD? If it's is I
have to keep this for myself..sorry but I've been looking for ever for
my '72 442. As for the rest of the car, it's available.

Fernando

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 23:43:58 -0400
Subject: Re: ID Question

> Sorry, no. The cars were originally shipped with thickly padded
> protective bags you were supposed to store the T-tops in in the
> trunk. Mine were missing, and despite a photo of the covers in the
> owners manual (I think that's where I saw it), the dealer couldn't
> find any trace of them in his parts manual or accessory catalog.
> If you find the bags somewhere, grab them!
> Thanks Andrew. Maybe a fellow could make some out of the blanket that
movers use to protect furnature??

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:31:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Die Cast Cars

- ----------
From: 	Greg Beaulieu[SMTP:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent: 	Thursday, November 07, 1996 9:20 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: Die Cast Cars

On Thu, 7 Nov 1996, Chris Sparks wrote:
> Dan wrote:
> > Nope, only 68 plastic promos are available and they are big bucks
(not > > to mention hard to find). > Can you get me more information on
this?

When the cars were new, the factories often commissioned "promo" models
that were finished versions of the model kits you would buy to assemble
at a hobby store. Because they were finished, issued by the factory and
often in a special package they are now very collectible. I saw a '68
4-4-2 promo advertised in this month's JWO for $170.00. Lots of money
for a 1/25th scale plastic model by AMT or Jo-Han.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

Seems to me that these promos use a different kind of plastic than what
you would find in an AMT/JoHan kit which are polystyrene plastic.  I
recall the promos flexing with age. dj

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:52:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leak

At 04:11 PM 11/7/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>     Ok, well today I am going to bring my 68 442 back to the mechanic
who >fixed the rear/front main seal and intake manifold gasket.  As some
of you >know, from reading previous e-mails, I had the above done along
with the >oil pan gasket being replaced.  Where else can an engine leak
oil from? >I check to see if I am leaking antifreeze, but can't spot
anything.  As a >side note I noticed that I go through antifreeze at a
rate that seems >suspicious.  The 77 C/S I had would barely lose a drop
of antifreeze.  I >know that the 68 probably runs hotter.  Could this
be the reason? > >The leak seems to be eminating from below the
passenger's side of the engine. >Down below were you can't see.  Any
hints before I go to him.  I probably >need some ammunition see he knows
that I am not a mechanically - weenie. >I just write software :-) > >Let
me know > >Chris Sparks >68 442 > > > You can leak oil from the entire
engine.  Common places are cranklshaft seals, oil pan gasket, valve
cover gasket, intake valley cover gasket, head gaskets, leaking core
support holes (often called freeze plug holes), cast iron can leak right
thru the side wall.  Cures, new seals for leaky seals, new gaskets for
leaky gaskets, new freeze plugs in to replace those in the oil routes,
whenever you tear down an engine, paint the inside of the block with
electric motor insulating paint (a strange orangish color); it will
often cure weep holes in the block. (Do the same to cast iron
transmission cases). And you will be amazed at how long the engine oil
remains clean.  I had a 327 Chevy leak from the rocker arm covers, and
it was finally cured with two gaskets under each cover.

The common places for anti-freeze to leak are headgaskets, cracked heads
& blocks, bad hoses, loose hose clamps, leaking freeze plugs, leaking
heater core, leaking water outlet gasket, a hole in the radiator
overflow tank and a leaking radiator (many causes).

It is unlikely that in proper tune, a '68 would run hotter than a '77.
The thermostat setting/water system pressure was surely higher in a '77
than a '68; therein the '77 was intended to run rather hotter than the
'68. With something out of wack, the anything is possible.

I hope this helps.

Cliff Feiler
1931 Patrician
1931 4-door
1984 Delta 88

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 20:03:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Body Style Plate

On Thu, 7 Nov 1996, Brian Cizas wrote:

> Can somebody please decode the body style plate on my 1963 Olds F85?
I know > that there are some people in this list that are excellent at
doing this.  TIA

Let me give this one a try:
> 04A
A guess: built the 4th week of January

> Style:  63:3117
1963 model year; 3117=F85 Cutlass Deluxe coupe

> Trim: 955
Red interior (deluxe)

> Body: BC 5591
Built in Southgate, Calif. plant

> Paint:  LLA
Regal Mist paint upper and lower, black wheels (another guess)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 00:20:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Wanted:  Olds big block

Richard Bonazzoli wrote:
>
> I am searching for a big block olds engine for my '69 Cutlass
> 4 speed.  I will consider engines needing a rebuild or ready to bolt
in. > Since I am located in central Massachusetts, the engine will have
to be within > driving distance for me to pick up.

Richard, I have a olds 455 that is running pretty well. I live in
Richmond NH which is about 18 Mi from Northfield Ma. If you are
interested give me a call (603) 239 6042. The engine is currently in a
77 pontiac. It has about 6 days left on twenty day plates so you could
even try it out. I have been running it to Concord NH every day (about
67 mi) and have added no oil to it. The car it self has little value as
it is a 4 door but as a winter beater would be great. It has no rust
which is amazing for this area.

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 00:22:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts cars vs. Project cars

david wyatt wrote:
>
> I have been quite amused by the different qualifications everyone
seems > to have when it come to advice on buying a "vintage" Olds. The
69 that > was mentioned today sounded to me like a decent project car
and the > price was fair for the condition. Someone from southern CA
thought it > might be a parts car at best. On the other hand someone
from way up > north may think it is almost cherry due to small amount of
body damage. > You must consider what is available in your area when
buying a car. > Don't take someones advice as gospel. The western and
southern guys may > think it is junk while the northern guys would kill
to get their hands > on it. I am here in the midwest and am always
amazed at the solid bodies > (of all makes) that are wasted by the movie
and TV folks. Maybe we need > to send the rusty stuff out west and bring
back the good stuff for the > rest of us. >

Amen!!

------------------------------

From: Stephen Lesniak <sxl149@psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:44:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Junk in the front yard

I have read soooo many emails concerning this topic that I feel
compelled to reply.  My parents live in a nice house & we(my Dad & I)
have collected/wrecked a few cars in our time.  We always strip them and
then junk them.  Sometimes we have had cars sitting for quite some time
and nobody has ever complained, probably because we live on a dead end
and we ALWAYS kept the cars covered.  Now, we have a neighbor who
collects junk and VW bugs(should they be classified w/ the junk?).  He
doesn't do sh*t w/ them, they just sit and rot to the ground.  What I am
getting at it that when my parents got tired of looking at his junk they
didn't hassle him about it, they built a 5' fence so they wouldn't have
to look at it.  Of course places that don't allow you to park more than
one car in the driveway probably won't allow you to build a 5' fence so
you don't have to look at your neighbor's hobbies.  Point being that in
order to solve a problem politics, whining & bitching don't cut it.
Action does.  For everyone who is worried about people giving them a
hard time about their hobby, maybe cover your junk cars w/ a $5 tarp or
get rid of it.  Oh yeah, if they complain about your covered car, you
are allowed to complain about their covered boat and goofy looking
mailbox.  Anyway what I am trying to say is that I love my cars and I
don't want anyone to take them away from me, so if it came down to it I
would build a garage to keep them in so nobody had to look at them.  I
am also paronoid that if someone doesn't like looking at it that they
might mess w/ it.  Well, this has gotten totally long winded and I don't
know if it has helped anyone, but what the hell I thought I'd share my
feelings w/ the group.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 20:24:52 -0400
Subject: Re: (1964 Olds 98 Luxury Sedan- seeking info) One for you,
Esko!

At 02:44 PM 11/6/96 -0500, you wrote:
>iam new to this e_mail thing.  Anyhow i have a 64 olds 98 luxury sedan.
I >have been searching for info.  regarding this car.  I feel as though
iam the >only one who has a car like this.  If there is anyone whom
knows about this >car, I would appreciate the response.

Esko, isn't that your car?

Yeah, there's a guy in Finland with one, but you'll have to pay the
airfare for him to help you on any repairs... ;)

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 20:24:49 -0400
Subject: RE: '70-72 Cutlass Fenders

At 01:02 PM 11/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi,
>  Like I mentioned before on this page.  There is a '72 Cutlass
>with god fenders (especially the driver's side, 3 minutes away from
>my house.  I'm still taking requests.
>
>Craig D.

I'd be interested; where's your house? (I mean, would they have to be
shipped, or could I drive there from the Northeast?)

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: nmichelli@acl.nyit.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 20:46:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Maaco

well i was thinking of brining my 85 Delta in to get a new coat. The
paint the company put on is fading and cracking everywhere.. I guess i
got a bad batch from the company. Well anyway do you think it is worth
it to get the $300 Embassodor paint job...???

------------------------------

From: Chuck Rowe <badgeman@tcac.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:24:39 -0400
Subject: 1947 Olds

This ad appeared in a local trader:

        For Sale: 1947 Olds. Runs real good. Second owner. All original.
Spare         came with car when new. All for $2,800.

Question: Is this a good deal? Is it worth considering? Opinions,
please.

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@pop.tiac.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 01:40:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds

Chuck Rowe wrote:
>
> This ad appeared in a local trader:
>
>         For Sale: 1947 Olds. Runs real good. Second owner. All
original. > Spare         came with car when new. All for $2,800. > >
Question: Is this a good deal? Is it worth considering? Opinions,
please. It certanly sounds worth looking at. if the bos=dy and paint are
good and you like the style I would go for it.

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:35:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Found Dell's original owner!

In a message dated 96-11-07 17:39:38 EST, you write:

> "And the low beams!" I added. Dell's low beams aren't working right at
the >  moment... I'm afraid to mess around with it too much and farg up
the rare >  Guide Matic circuit. Ideas, anyone? >

I could use some more information here.  You have high beam lights (all
four) all the time, even during the day time?  Or neither one of the low
beam lights light up, high beams only?  If you turn the GuideMatic knob
all the way counterclockwise, that should turn them "off".  What happens
when you hit the dimmer switch?  And one more question.  You have the
"eye" mounted on the driver's side fender, right?  Is it painted body
color, or is it chrome (actually shiney aluminum)?  I have an original
GuideMatic knob instruction tag somewhere out in the garage with the NOS
unit for my '67.  I'll have to dig it out and post it.

Paul
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe, Aquamarine

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:35:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Deep GM Trivia AND classified searcher

In a message dated 96-11-07 12:03:29 EST, you write:

>        1. When did GM put the first metallic paint on their cars?

It was at least 1939, maybe earlier.
>
>          2. What was it called at the time?

Iridescent
>

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:35:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Body Style Plate

In a message dated 96-11-07 19:06:44 EST, you write:

> Let me give this one a try:
>  > 04A
>  A guess: built the 4th week of January
>

Hey Greg.  You did super!  I'm real proud!  But I think 04A is the first
week of April?

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:35:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Die Cast Cars

In a message dated 96-11-07 18:52:02 EST, you write:

> I saw a '68
>  4-4-2 promo advertised in this month's JWO for $170.00. Lots of money
 >  for a 1/25th scale plastic model by AMT or Jo-Han.

Was at a toy auction last Monday.  One of the items there was a '56
Chevy Bel Air Hardtop Sedan promo.  Was in real nice shape except for
some minor warpage.  Sold for $25.00!  Why couldn't it have been a '56
Olds?  Just goes to show how much mark-up people have in these items.  I
looked at '73 to '75 Cutlasses at fall Hershey last month.  Saw them in
a range of $25 to $60.
 One lady was trying to pass off her '74 as a 442 for $40!  I infomed
her it wasn't a 442 and she informed me I didn't have to buy it.

Paul

PS - I read the related post about warpage of promos as opposed to kits.
 This was true up until '63 or '64, then they changed the material and
warpage hasn't been a problem.  My '67 Toronado has no warpage.  Now, if
it just had the correct wheels instead of SSIIs!

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:44:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds

>        For Sale: 1947 Olds. Runs real good. Second owner. All
original. >Spare         came with car when new. All for $2,800. >
>Question: Is this a good deal? Is it worth considering? Opinions,
please.

Kinda depends on the condition.  If it runs good and has decent sheet
metal, I think it's probably worth at least $2,800.  Those cars are
beautiful. There was a restored one at the Old Town cruise last Saturday
in Kissimmee, FL.  Very classy car. - -- Dave Paulison
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Melbourne, Florida             1993
Mitsubishi Eclipse GS dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 22:05:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Deep GM Trivia AND classified searcher

At 09:35 PM 11/7/96 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-11-07 12:03:29 EST, you write:
>
>>        1. When did GM put the first metallic paint on their cars?
>
>It was at least 1939, maybe earlier.
>>
>>          2. What was it called at the time?
>
>Iridescent
>>
>
>

Ok, nice guess

As for the year, 1939 isn't even close.  New clue and one of the
answers, it was called Pearlescent.

Cliff Feiler
1931 Patrician
1931 4-dr
1984 Delta 88

------------------------------

From: Katana72@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 22:11:07 -0400
Subject: Re: My 1972 olds cutlass "s"

I found one in MY 72 S stashed in the rear seat under the springs. It
fell apart almost immediately, so exercise extreme care when removing it
and I would recommend laminating it right away. I was told that this was
one of the favorite places to stash build sheets and the information was
correct. I discovered mine when the seats were re- upholstered.

Katana72               It's NOT your Daddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!!!
         Hastings, MN

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:43:39 -0400
Subject: Compression ratio (was: '87 307 engine)

How in the world can a person change the compression?  If it is easy
then how can I up the compression on the 68 442 (I believe it is rated
at 10.25)?

Chris Sparks
(I know I am power crazy.  Sheesh! :-))))

     New pistons with a smaller dish, thus reducing the combustion
chamber
     volume (new heads would also do it, but most Olds heads have the
same
     combustion chamber volume).

     And while I applaud your power craze, even I (who subscribe to the
"if
     some is good, more is better, and too much is just about right"
school
     of hot rodding) won't run more than 10:1 on the street with today's

     gasoline.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 21:07:57 -0400
Subject: My Maaco experience

     As others have stated previously, since Maaco shops are a series of

     franchises, the quality one receives can vary depending on the
owners.
     My own experience with Maaco was not a pleasant one.

     I grew up in central Mass. (Shrewsbury, to be exact).  My first
"real"
     car (not counting the 68 Vista Cruiser I inherited from the family)

     was a 68 442 which I rescued from a wrecking yard (I think it was
     Standard Auto Wrecking in Worcester, MA) for $100.  This car was a
     tremendous learning experience for me, which included installation
of
     a new engine, rebuilding of the front suspension, conversion to
disc
     brakes, and a complete stripping of the car to bare metal in
     preparation for paint.

     I did all the work myself, including all the body work, prep, and
     priming.  I did not trust myself to lay the final color coat, but I

     assumed that since 90% of any paint job is the prep (here I
disagree
     with the 60% others have quoted), I would increase my chances of
     getting a quality paint job from Maaco if I did all the prep work
     myself and just had them spray the color.

     This car was built in the mid-1970s, while I was in high school and

     college.  I repaired the rust with fiberglass (did I mention I was
in
     high school at the time?) and I added an L-88 scoop to the hood
(Wait!
     Put down that rope!  It actually looks good with the lines of the
68).
     The scoop naturally required some fairing-in (read filler
material).

     OK, so I deliver the fully prepped and masked car to Maaco.  I had
     removed all chrome and bumpers, so this should not have been hard.

     Imagine my disappointment when I returned to pick up the car, only
to
     be greeted with massive amounts of orange peel!  Even worse, the
bozos
     had somehow managed to dislodge a sizable chunk of the filler
around
     the hood scoop ("Err...we blasted it with the air hose to get the
dust
     off...") and had performed a less than stellar job of repairing the

     damage (like the filler had a large number of unfilled air pockets
     visible in the finish).  I should mention that I had requested and
     paid for the most expensive paint job they offered - $179.95 in
1976.

     In retrospect, I guess I should be thankful.  This experience
     convinced me that I could certainly do a better job myself than
could
     these clowns.  Since that time, I've painted about a dozen cars
     myself.  Usually I use lacquer, but I must say that toady's
two-part
     enamels are quite nice.  If you think about it, how can you expect
to
     get a quality paint job from Maaco, Earl Schieb, or the others for
     $200 when I can't even buy the materials I need to do the job
myself
     for that kind of money - let alone pay for the skill required in
the
     painters to perform a quality job.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:39:32 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 307 engine

Hey everyone,
       I was wandering if instead of swapping a 350 in my cutlass, could
I just have the 307 bored out?

     For the money you would spend on ultrasonic checking of wall
     thickness, machining custom pistons, rebalancing the reciprocating
     assembly, and getting the heads to match the newly-required flow
rate,
     you could probably build and install three 350 motors!  But why
stop
     there?  Go for the 403 (can't beat those cubic inches!).

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 22:22:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Found  '72 C/S- may part it out

At 07:19 AM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey guys/gals,
>	I found a car just sitting doing nothing. The onwer wants to sell the
>entire car. The car is a '72 Cutlass Supreme. Here's the VIN number

Where is it, and what does he want for it? It'd be shame to part a car
like that just for the fenders!

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 22:22:49 -0400
Subject: Re: front susp. tip and heat shield #

At 03:26 PM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Someone wrote in that the bolts used to connect their upper control arm
 >shafts to the frame were spot welded to the frame.[snip] These
correct bolts have >large raised ribs on the shank of the bolt that
grip the frame and allow you >to loosen/tighten the nut without having
the bolt spin.  I ruined these ribs >when attempting to remove the
bolts with a wrench during my front end >rebuild on my '70 442.  They
should be tapped in or out with a hammer.  DO >NOT attempt to "unscrew"
these bolts, or you will ruin the vital ribs on the >shank.

Another way to remove these bolts is to use the big-old C-Clamp as a
press: PUt a socket over the head  of the bolt, a nut on the end, and
tighten the C-clamp to press out (or in) the bolt. Usually it will come
out all of a sudden with a nice "pop".

- -----------
- - Bob Barry
- - 1969 Std. Toronado & 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (the 455 big-block
boys) - - 1978 Electra Limited Coupe (409 Olds SMALL-block powered!)

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 22:45:34 -0400
Subject: Capitol City Rockets Nov. Meeting

The next meeting of the Capitol City Rockets Chapter of the Oldsmobile
Club of America will be:

*****   November 13 @ Davis Library, Montgomery County MD
(IMPORTANT ELECTION MEETING - Please come and vote if you can make it)

Other stuff will be on the adgenda - like what stuff to do next year.
Anyone who wants to come & check us out are welcome
Need info or directions, drop me a line

Special Note to current CCR members who are on the newsgroup
===================================================
*   E-mail me a quick note w/ your e-mail address on it and your OCA #,
*   exp date address, phone numbers, and
*   cars owned so we can do our yearly update of the roster
===================================================
*  Don't forget to send in your election ballot if you can't make the
meeting =========================================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | 76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:55:38 -0400
Subject: Ca. Smog Regs Again

There have been a lot of posts on this topic, but it came up again and
I'm bored on a plane from Indy to Denver...

I have a 66 98 originally Ca. Car, still in Ca. When I rebuilt the 425
into a 455 in 1987 it was legal to rebuild the motor with no smog as it
was  21 years or older. As a Ca. car it has the air injection (smog
pump), and PCV (positive crankcase ventilation), but no EGR (exhaust gas
recirculation). EGR came in in about 72 on the lower compression big
blocks.

In 88 or 89 they changed the laws saying that you have to have whatever
equipment came on the car originally. So I took off the big holley, offy
intake, etc. and put the qjet, smog pump and PCV back on. Then I got it
past the state test and it passed with flying colors (and every 2 years
since in that configuration).

In Ca. today there is a visual inspection and exhaust sniffer test. To
pass the visual, you have to have all the original stuff on the car --
Closed air cleaner, Qjet, air pump if so equipped originally (or not!),
PCV (again, if originally so equipped). So every 2 years I do this
little dance with the state, putting all that crap on, taking the old
car down to a shop, getting it smogged, then ripping it all off again.
Morally? Hey, CHP and state cars don't have to comply... and I'm
optimizing in my own little direction on the environmental thing. Twinge
of guilt here and there, but countered by a fierce sense of private
property.

I'm running an RV cam, not a real lumpy thing because well, it's a 98. I
don't think a lumpy cam would be right for this vehicle. Even if it is a
convertible. I'm not sure a more aggressive grind would pass, but I
don't know much about this topic.

If you're going to be in Ca., find out what county you will live in. I
believe the regs are different by county. If you live in the Bay Area or
LA, you have to pass smog, if you live in a rural area I think the rules
are looser or nonexistent. Fair, huh?

Oh, buying off a friendly mechanic will be pricey or not doable, if he
gets busted, he loses the right to do these lucrative inspection
services. Also I don't think it's fair for him to bear what I view as my
legal risk.

If there's a knowledgeable lawyer in the house, kindly speak up. My
behavior has so far been based on hearsay, I'd love to know the Ca. law
on this point.

Sorry to go on so long, but hope this helps.
Chris Fair

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:35:40 -0400
Subject: Qjet Rods& Jets

I think Bryce is right, I've never heard of an auto parts store being
able to get these items.

Bryce, do you know of a dealer that stocks a large selection of qjet
parts? Where do the rebuilders get their stuff? cf

------------------------------

From: kiss74@worldnet.att.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 00:08:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds Museum

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> Hey, a wuick holler from Lansing...
> coupla issues...
> 1- Penny Ruff at the Oldsmobile Transportation Museum called, wants to
get word > out on the internet about the stuff the museum sells... I
told her one way was > to email Bryce, ask if he'd place a list of items
on there. I also told her > that she could probably create, perhaps with
the help of talented folks here > [Darren... etc.] their own web page.
But, that's about the extent of my > knowledge on the matter- that it
CAN be done. I don't know who to contact for a > host site, exactly HOW
to "create a web page", etc. Seems like "442.com" would > be hard to
beat. Anyone with tips or expertise please call Penny at > 517-372-0529.
I might be able to scare up her email address so you can contact > her
more conveniently... > > 2- I have a rather lengthy contribution to
submit to the list, detailing much > of the story about the founding of
Oldsmobile and Reo... soon as I can figure > out how to get these
non-cooperating IBM computers to accept a file off floppy > and submit
it to email... used to work fine down the hall, but that 'puter no > net
no more... > > Remember, folks, that I am not a list subscriber :-( so
if you wanna discuss > this with ME, email me at the address below... >
-- > Chris  B. Witt > wittchri@pilot.msu.edu Actualy "Olds.com " would
be a little better as not everyone has a 442, and it IS an Olds Museum.
;) Just wanted to give ya my .02cents JC

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 02:23:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds Museum

kiss74@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>
> Actualy "Olds.com " would be a little better as not everyone has a
442, > and it IS an Olds Museum. ;) > Just wanted to give ya my .02cents >
JC

Ah...  Ya gotta love this guy!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: kdporter@midwest.net (kdporter)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 23:29:42 -0400
Subject: Parts for sale

     I need to clean out my garage,I have a 70 black dash 50.00,10 bolt
3.55 posi 300.00,holley street dominator intake for a small block also a
650 holley Q-jet replacement 150.00 for both and a right frt.fender for
a 70-72 rust free 150.00.I also have a comp-cams 280 50.00. If anybody
needs any of these parts call me at {618}987-2884 or email me.
  Thanks


kdporter
kdporter@midwest.net

------------------------------

From: Dan Burke <dburke@magicnet.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 23:38:01 -0400
Subject: Used rear ends

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Let me toss in my $1000.0 worth on the subject of buying used =
"performance" rear ends.  I recently purchased a used 3.23 posi unit for
= my 70 cutlass for $400 after searching for three years.  A previous =
improper rebuild and sevier abuse from lots of horsepower left this unit
= with the posi carrier and the housing as the only reusable parts.  The
= axles splines were twisted, the pinion stress fractured, the clutches
= scored, the spider gears and shaft were trash, you get the idea.  I
took = this rear end, and my orignal 2.56:1 to a high quality repair
shop and = ended up adding an additional $600 of parts and labor to get
my original = rear end converted to a 3:23 posi and remanufactured to
factory fresh = standards (my original rear end lasted for 300,000
miles, I expect to = get the same performance out of it this time).

My point is to be weary of buying a used "performance" rear end and =
expecting to end up with a good drivable unit.  If my experience taught
= me anything, I would not pay much for a used performance rear end =
without knowing a good deal about the history of the car it came out of.

This is the way it goes buying old parts for our old cars.  Sometimes =
you get good deals, sometimes you get the twisted shaft.

Dan Burke			70 cultass conv
Orlando, FL
dburke@magicnet.net


>>>Subject: RE: 66 Rear

I have a '71 Cutlass with a 10 bolt 2.56 peg leg. My plan was/is to find
a fully assembled A body posi unit with high 2.?? to low 3.?? and hope
it holds up.=20

Would I be better off buying an Auburn or ??? (aftermarket) carrier and
ring set and having it built up? In essence, just use my
housing/axles/breaks and have a new gear unit installed?

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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCCFC.5726B500--

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 01:45:16 -0400
Subject: Re: [Toro] Re: Olds Museum

> kiss74@worldnet.att.net wrote:

> > Actualy "Olds.com " would be a little better as not everyone has a
442, > > and it IS an Olds Museum. ;) > > Just wanted to give ya my
.02cents

Mike Frederick Wrote:

> Ah...  Ya gotta love this guy!

Yupper!

I have a sneeking hunch that somebody may already have that domain
though.....uhhhh yup, just checked...its taken. The worst part is, it
has nothing to do with Oldsmobile either!  AARRGGHHH!

Sparky
- --
Greg Kalkhoff                             See the Sparkmobile
AKA  "Sparky"                       http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Milwaukee, WI

------------------------------

From: Brian Cizas <bscizas@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 00:17:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Body Style Plate

At 09:35 PM 11/7/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Hey Greg.  You did super!  I'm real proud!  But I think 04A is the
first week >of April? > >Paul >


Thanks guys.  You both did great.  I could not have figured it out if my
life depended on it.  BTW, does anyone know what color regal mist is?
Is it a shade of red?  The car was repainted light blue a very long time
ago and since it needs to be repainted I want to go back to its original
color.

Brian Cizas
1963 Olds Cutlass F85
1987 Olds Cutlass Ciera
1981 Olds Delta 88

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 01:23:27 -0400
Subject: Re: My 1972 olds cutlass "s"

In a message dated 96-11-07 17:18:35 EST, you write:

<< I am wondering if my car which is all original has a build sheet in
it
 and if it does where can I find it at.  Any help would be greatly
 appreciated. >>

Depending where the car was built, the car will either have a
computer card or a build sheet.  Here are some locations of
the sheets I have found on some of my cars.  One is behind
the back seat, on top of the gas tank, behind the cover on
bucket seats, under the bench on front seats, and under the
carpet and under the headliner.  These spots I have encountered
myself.  By the way 72's rule.  Tell me more about your S car.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
(2) 72 442 W-30's

------------------------------

From: "Field Office" <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 01:22:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression ratio (was: '87 307 engine)

- ----------
> From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Compression ratio (was: '87 307 engine)
> Date: Thursday, November 07, 1996 6:43 PM
>
> How in the world can a person change the compression?  If it is easy
then how > can I up the compression on the 68 442 (I believe it is
rated at 10.25)? >

The cheap way to gain a littel compression is to take off the heads
and have teh suface milled about .030. this will decrease the cumbustion
 chamber volume by approxiamately 4-5cc, thus increasing the
compression ratio about from 10.25 to 10.7....a good way to get some
cheap power for low compression engines but you already have a decent
amount for street use!

Jeff
79 cutlass 455 M-21 4 speed
88 Calais Quad 4 5 sp 15.2@89mph

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 04:34:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds Museum

>kiss74@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>>
>> Actualy "Olds.com " would be a little better as not everyone has a
442, >> and it IS an Olds Museum. ;) >> Just wanted to give ya my
.02cents >> JC > >Ah...  Ya gotta love this guy! >

     Yeah, It's just to bad that Olds.com has nothing to do with cars,
much less Olds!  :(  I did find reference to NASTAR, but I don't think
they misspelled NASCAR:(

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 08:27:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Body Style Plate

On Fri, 8 Nov 1996, Brian Cizas wrote:
> Thanks guys.  You both did great.  I could not have figured it out if
my > life depended on it.  BTW, does anyone know what color regal mist
is?  Is it > a shade of red?  The car was repainted light blue a very
long time ago and > since it needs to be repainted I want to go back to
its original color.

I was afraid you'd ask that. :) I have no idea what Regal Mist is. I
*can* tell you that you could only get a red, black or white interior
with it so there's not much change it was ever blue originally. The
platinum, green, blue, fawn, saddle, aqua and rose interiors were not
available with it (what a choice, huh? Sure beats the gray or taupe
choice they give you nowadays). Anyway, I'd be curious to find out too.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 08:33:36 -0400
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds

On Thu, 7 Nov 1996, Chuck Rowe wrote:
> This ad appeared in a local trader:
>         For Sale: 1947 Olds. Runs real good. Second owner. All
original. > Spare         came with car when new. All for $2,800. >
Question: Is this a good deal? Is it worth considering? Opinions,
please.

Last year one of the guys in our car club arrived with one of these. Had
 been stored in a barn since about 1970 (one of those deals you always
hear about but never seem to find yourself). It was an interesting car,
with a nearly perfect interior after all those years. A huge flathead
straight 6 engine that ran after only a little resuscitation work... not
 the most powerful thing in the world but smooth. A huge car, built
like a tank, that he sold for more than that - but it was an
extraordinary example. If you are a fan of cars of that era it sounds
like a deal. But they are not the most exciting drives in the world...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 08:38:29 -0400
Subject: 1980 4-4-2 For Sale

This appeared in the Olds Club of Canada newsletter:

1980 Olds 4-4-2, original 120,000 km (that about 72K miles), 350 Rocket,
 good condition, $3,500 Cdn.  519-396-7479

Since Jason's research indicated these were very rare I thought I'd
mention it.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 08:45:13 -0400
Subject: '68 Vacuum Tank Needed

Anyone got one of these? The kind that looks like a couple of black
hockey pucks glued together? I have scored an original vacuum trunk
release for my '68 and need the tank if I want it to work. I know I can
buy a new one but those are the plastic sphere types and I would like
the original style. Email me privately if you do... and thanks!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 09:47:23 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: '87 307 engine

A supercharger would be "relative" easy add on.  Do such beasts exist
for a 68 442.

     Waddaya think ya got there, a Chebby?

Will something like this work with a dual snorkel air cleaner (no I
don't have one, but would like one)?

Chris Sparks

     Uh...Probably, but why.

     A supercharger (or turbocharger) is never an "easy add on", despite

     what you may read in Camaro Craft, especially for a
high-compression
     engine like that in a 68 442.  Keep in mind that these items build
     horsepower through boost, which really requires 8:1 or less
     compression - just check out Oldsmobile's ill-fated attempt at
     turbocharging in the 1962-63 Jetfire.  Its 10.25:1 compression
limited
     the turbo to 5 lbs of boost and _still_ required liquid injection
to
     hold down the detonation.  Most owners ran the liquid injection
tank
     dry, melted down the motor due to detonation, and had the turbo
     replaced with a conventional 4 bbl when they had the new motor put
in.

     Back to your question.  There are really two types of superchargers

     available aftermarket - positive displacement (Rootes) and
     centrifugal.  The Rootes type is the familiar 6-71 type blower seen
on
     dragsters, however other positive displacement units are available,

     such as the Eaton unit on the Series II 3.8 liter Buick V-6 and the

     Thunderbird Super Coupe.  A number of companies market these units
set
     up for street use, such as Blower Drive Service, Weiand, and B&M.
In
     most cases, unless you own a popular vehicle (read that small block

     Chevy or 5.slow Ford) you will require a custom installation.  BDS
and
     others modify conventional single plane 4 bbl manifolds by adding a

     thick aluminum plate to the top for the blower mounting.  This
setup
     typically sprouts dual quads through the hood, so the use of a dual

     snorkel air cleaner is rather moot.  It will also involve modifying

     the water pump and adapting a 3" wide Gilmer belt drive for the
     blower.  Of course, the motor will need to be built to accept the
     added horsepressure.  Not a cheap solution, but definitely
impressive.

     The centrifugal supercharger (most common brand is the Paxton)
mounts
     on the front of the engine like an a/c compressor and is usually
     driven by a v-belt.  It can be plumbed in either suck through (carb

     upstream of the supercharger) or blow through (carb downstream),
with
     the latter more common.  Usually a pressurized air box will be
mounted
     over the carb and supercharger output ducted to the box.  Again,
this
     requires system-level modifications to the engine internals, carb,
     fuel system, and ignition.  Popular Hot Rodding did a two-part
article
     many years back on a Mondello buildup of a 600 hp,
Paxton-supercharged
     455 Olds slated for installation in a Firebird.  This setup can be
     made to fit under the stock hood, but again, the retention of the
     original air cleaner is unwise.

     Note that these comments apply primarily to older, carburetted
V-8s.
     Newer engines with low compression, ignition knock sensors, and
     computer-controlled fuel injection can be more easily adapted to
     supercharging (although the threat of emissions testing then raises

     its ugly head).  For an easy 100+ horsepower boost, stick with
     nitrous.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 13:02:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Junk in the front yard

Stephen Lesniak wrote:
>
> Well, this has gotten totally long winded and I don't know if it has
> helped anyone, but what the hell I thought I'd share my feelings w/
> the group.

It's helped ME.  As I had mentioned earlier, I expect to be involved
rewriting some of our local code issues next year and (once we got past
the "I can do anthing I want" replies) there have been a number of very
reasonable responses.

Thanks for everyone's input.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:29:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Deep GM Trivia AND classified searcher

wizkid sez:

> As for the year, 1939 isn't even close.  New clue and one of the
answers, it > was called Pearlescent. > > Cliff Feiler > 1931 Patrician >
1931 4-dr
       ^^^^
Err, 4-dr what? :)

> 1984 Delta 88
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Frank Iezzi <fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:30:23 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #356

Hello all-
Just cruising through... read the digests when I have some time (and a
computer).
Saw a thread about the new, soon-to-be-released die cast '69 H/O and 442
models.  Anyone know when, where and how much - who do I send my name
to?? Thanks, Frank Iezzi email to fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us

------------------------------

From: "Spud" <spud@kudonet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:02:55 -0400
Subject: window seals (long) (was Re: Resto  Tips)

Reggie wrote:

> I bet a piano wire would work well. I need to stop my front
> windshield from leaking. Is this a way to do that, use a wire to cut
> the seal and then lift out the windshield. What would you use to
> reseal under the glass, is there a kit? Thanks Reggie (69 Toronado)

> jgoble@nishanet.com

I replaced the seal on the rear window of my Delta.  I went to an
auto glass shop and asked them for length of the seal, long enough to
do the job.

The seal was a stiff rope of material that reminded me of tar with
lots of solids in it.  It came in a coil, with a strip of paper
interleaved between adjacent bits of the seal.  The stuff was about
the color and shape of a black licorice rope.

Make sure you keep the seal clean and dry, to ensure it stays sticky.
 Also, make certain to have a good clean and dry surface on the body of
the car when you apply the seal.  Any dust or dirt will make for a
compromised seal.

After removing the window, thoroughly clean the channel where the
original seal was.  After you dig out all the old seal (I used a wire
brush on a drill), clean the surface with a good solvent.  Don't use
any petroleum based solvents, since they all leave a trace of oily gunk
after they otherwise dry and the seal might not stick to the body;
I used rubbing alcohol, but if you go to an electronics supplyhouse,
you can get a bottle of 93% isopropynol (same as rubbing alcohol,
just as pure as it can get in the presence of air).

Do likewise on the glass, but not with a drill.  I used a single-edge
razor blade scraper, changing blades as often as seem necessary.  For
the last pass before cleaning with alcohol, I used a fresh razor
blade to make certain I removed as much junk as possible.

Be careful how you support the window, since any undue pressure can
cause it to break.  If you're single and not too anal, the couch or a
carpeted floor and a bunch of pillows comes to mind.

After all is clean, clean, clean, lay the seal in the channel where
the old seal was.  Applying the seal to the window first would make it
tough to fit the window "squarely" and keep the seal clean.

To fit the window (and to remove it, for that matter), have a friend
help you place the window.  Hold the window by the edges or, better
yet, by suction cups ($3-$7, ea.) from the outside.  You'll want  to
make sure your placement is "square," so go slow and do all the
eye-balling you need to to feel confident about the fit.

Set the window on the gasket, making certain the window isn't directly
supported by the body, since the seal also acts like a vibration
isolator for the glass.  If you have direct contact with the body, you
might wind up with a broken window a while down the road.

Push the window firmly into the seal.  I remember using a large rubber
mallet, but I don't recommend it.  I do recommend doing this
procedure when it's warm out, rather than cold, to make sure the seal
is pliable enough to form an occlusive seal between the window and
the seal and the body.

Spud		"Fart proudly."
'86 FXST	-- Benjamin Franklin
'73 Olds Delta 88 Royale
'79 Chry Le Baron T&C wagon

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:46:19 -0400
Subject: Re: ID Question

>> Sorry, no. The cars were originally shipped with thickly padded
>> protective bags you were supposed to store the T-tops in in the
>> trunk. Mine were missing, and despite a photo of the covers in the
>> owners manual (I think that's where I saw it), the dealer couldn't
>> find any trace of them in his parts manual or accessory catalog.
>> If you find the bags somewhere, grab them!
>
> Thanks Andrew. Maybe a fellow could make some out of the blanket that
> movers use to protect furniture??

Well, yes, anything padded would be good. I eventually got hold of a
couple of old carpet samples, which were two by three feet or so and
finished around the edges. I'd put the first T-top into the trunk with
the glass (inboard) edge all the up against the back seat, put a layer
of carpet on top, then stack the other one sort-of-nested over it (the
thicker, latching edge will nestle behind the lower one, not over it).
Since the T-tops were installed 99.5% of the time, the carpet samples
didn't really take up any space in the trunk when not in use.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Dennis Johnson <dwjohnso@sunbird.usd.edu>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:53:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Deep GM Trivia AND classified searcher

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCD52.54709FA0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>snip...F-40 unit which was built in November, 1979 at the GM =
Electro->Motive Division plant in LaGrange, Illinois...Didn't see many =
option codes >listed; probably it just comes with a bench seat, radio =
and heater.  :-)
>=20
This would make it a business coupe, right?
>
>Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.
>101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>
Gentlemen: snip...If you like GM trivia:
        1. When did GM put the first metallic paint on their cars?

I do not know but there is a 1931 Moon show car that had metallic paint.
=
      =20
=20
       2. What was it called at the time?
=20
        3. What did the Eastern division of GM manufacture?

Make aircraft, specifically FM-2 Wildcat airplanes during WWII.  9 =
cylinder radial engine, 1350hp Wright Cyclone.  Orville Wright and =
Kettering started  the Dayton Wright company that made them.
=20
        4. What does the acronim DELCO stand for?

      Dayton Engineering Laboratories, Company?

        5. Who, that would eventually be President of GM, came from =
there
(DELCO)?

      Alfred P. Sloan?
       =20
      6. What was Ketterings worst engineering folly?

      Hula hoop?

        7. GM was the probably last company in he world to discontinue =
use
of the Knight sleeve valve engine!                  How come? (Clue: =
I'll
but you never even knew they used them at all.  The next to last user =
was
the Willys Overland Company, in their Willys-Knight, discontinued in
December 1932.)

      This is news to me!  On a side note, however, Charles Knight's =
sleeve
valve motor used a lot of oil, though I don't know if the sleeve valve =
was the       reason.  Very quiet motor though.  If you used it you HAD
= to include       Knight's name on the car.  Another English company, =
Bristol, made 2200       hp sleeve valve airplane engines.

...more snipping...

Cliff Feiler
Oldsmobile Owner


      OK Cliff, tell us the right answers!
dj


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #357
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