To:	Jeffrey A Easton/ADD_LAKE_HUB/ADD_HUB/ADD/US
cc:	 
From:	gbbea000 @ mail.cycor.ca@INTERNET1 @ ABTLAB
Date:	10/30/96 04:38:48 PM
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #347


oldsmobile-digest        Wednesday, 30 October 1996     Volume 01 :
Number 347


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: parts car

Well Tim,
I have affectionately named that Mercury "The Bomb".  One time I carried
 a Buick 3.8liter longblock in a crate in the trunk of the car.  I had
to have it moved on a rollback one time, and it stuck 5 feet off of a
20 foot bed.  Does this qualify me for mooring status?  Anbody got a
spare anchor?  My latest idea for "The Bomb" is to 70'serize it (paint
exterior blue, crushed blue velvet interior, custom chain link steering
wheel, 8-track with BIG speakers, low profile tires and nice wheels,
shag carpet, quad exhaust with flamethrowers :-), plastic Jesus and a
coon's tail hanging from the rear-view mirror).  Anybody got any other
ideas? Oh, I'd just HAVE to get the personalized tag:  "BLU MUN".  I
took a look at a few other things in the parts car today.  According to
the VIN # it is an '81 Cutlass Calais, Canada car, A: 3.8l V6, made in
St. Therese (sp?) Quebec.  I didn't know that they made any V6 Calais.
Obviously they did!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
(See, I mentioned Oldsmobile in this posting!)
Clayton (I like big cars too) Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. 66k miles)
'81 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais (350 4bbl. ? miles)
'80 Rover 3500 (215 EFI V8 85k miles)
'72 Mercury Marquis Brougham (waiting for an anchor) (429 4bbl. 110k
miles)

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 05:37:23 -0400
Subject: Re: CORRECT WINDSHIELD WASHER BOTTLE COLOR

>
>My '68 was built in Oshawa and has a black washer bottle. Not a good
>choice since you can't tell how much fluid is in there...
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada >

My '69 4-4-2 also built in Canada has a black washer bottle.

Glenn

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:38:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

Tom L wrote:

>      Looks like the time has come for an intake gasket on my 307.  I
know >      this is a very common failure, and want to know if anyone
here has any >      personal preference for the brand of gasket used
(Fel-pro, Victor, >      etc), and any tricks to help seal it.  I've
heard of the >      dab-of-silicone in the corners where the front meets
the heads trick >      (which is where mine is leaking, so that trick
probably would have >      helped).  Any others?

I just had my gasket replaced on my 68 400 CID 442.  It leaks worse now
than before I had it fixed!!!!!!  I am ready to really give it to my
mechanic.  The leak is as Tom wrote "where the front meets the heads".
I would like to park my car in my driveway, but can't due to leaking
oil.  That is one of the reasons why I decided to seal up those leaks.
I know that my mechanic used a Fel-pro gasket.  Could this be the
culprit for the leak?  I am at my wits end.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:42:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 454 CONVERSION???

My friend (Who has a lot to learn about the potential of the Olds 455)
has a 69 Cutlass Supreme.  The motor is currently a 455 w/400 heads and
small block exhaust manifold.  He feels that it is easier to build up a
454 and drop it into the car insted of getting the correct 455 parts.
But (accroding to other mail) isn't the 454 a bigger and heavier motor
than the 455?  Now, will that fit into a car not originally designed to
hold such a motor without extensive modification?
Thanks
Brad
70 442

          While I hate to say this, the Cutlass/442 is the same basic
          body as the Chevelle, which, as we all know, was available
          with the 454 in 1970.  As others have posted, the conversion
          involves getting the frame mounts, brackets, exhaust
          manifolds, and transmission from the corresponding Chevelle.

          I went and looked up the dimensions of the BB Olds and BB
          Chevy motors in one of my Petersens Book of Engine Swaps -
          the results are surprising.  The BBC is within an inch of
          the BBO in width (without exh manifolds), length (trans
          flange to water pump) and height (oil pan to carb).  The BBC
          looks bigger due to its larger valve covers, but as others
          have pointed out, the difference is in the amount of intake
          runner in the head casting vs in the intake manifold
          casting.  The Olds (as we all know) has a much wider intake
          manifold.  This, of course, makes for a larger weight
          reduction when an aluminum intake is installed.

          Is this easier/cheaper than building the Olds motor?
          Probably not, but I'm certainly biased.  Is it
          easier/cheaper to get horsepower out of a big block Chevy?
          Probably.  Keep in mind that every winning Pro Stock motor
          (including the DRCE) is based on the BBC.  The primary
          advantage the Chevy has over other wedge motors is its
          splayed valve heads.  This configuration (which, by the way,
          is the reason for the wide valve covers on the Chevy) will
          inherently flow better, and as we know, the secret to making
          horsepower is getting more air in and out of the cylinders.
          Warren Johnson recently wrote a column in National Dragster
          in which he claimed that the splayed valve Pro Stock head
          has more (normally aspirated) flow potential than the Hemi!
          He went on to contend that the popularity of the Hemi in
          fuel racing is its combination of flow capability and
          serviceability, due to the ability of the rocker shafts to
          be removed as a unit during between-rounds tear-downs.

          Now, before the lynching party gets organized, let me say
          that none of this has deterred me from being a die-hard Olds
          fanatic; in fact the only BBC I own is the 454 in my crew
          cab dually - which I am planning to swap for a 455 Olds this
          spring.  And keep in mind that I am not addressing
          durability, serviceability, or anything other than
          horsepower production potential.  At the same time, let's
          not kid ourselves - we definitely have an uphill battle when
          building an Olds motor.  It just makes it that much sweeter
          when trailering that Chevy at the strip.  Besides, if it we
          wanted to take the easy way out, we'd all be driving
          Camaros! (sorry Jason)

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:51:22 -0400
Subject: Re: W35 OPTION

Hi all,

Does anyone think it is worth upgrading my 68 442 with equipment
typically found on W30 models to make it more valuable?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:00:09 -0400
Subject: 200-4R tranny code

Hey,
     I read that E-mail about the 200-4R codes and went home to see
which one I had in my car. The tag on the side of the transmission
didn't have any of the codes listed. On mine it had the code KTF. Does
anybody know what this is? It's an '87 Cutlass Supreme with a 307 but it
didn't have the code that the list said it should.
     Could somebody please help me on this one!

Andy
geetinag@miavx1.muohio.edu
 '87 Cutlass Supreme
 '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
 '74 Delta 88 convertible rocket

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:58:57 -0400
Subject: RE: Intake Gaskets

I thought this was a design defect on specific model years. I have had =
mine replaced 3 times in the past 124k miles (86 Cutlass). Has this been
= a design defect for the entire historical life of the 307,  and has =
never been addressed by GM/Olds? Does anyone have any history on this?

- ----------
From: 	Chris Sparks[SMTP:sparks@aisf.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, October 29, 1996 9:38 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: Intake Gaskets

Tom L wrote:

>      Looks like the time has come for an intake gasket on my 307.  I =
know=20
>      this is a very common failure, and want to know if anyone here =
has any=20
>      personal preference for the brand of gasket used (Fel-pro, =
Victor,=20
>      etc), and any tricks to help seal it.  I've heard of the
>      dab-of-silicone in the corners where the front meets the heads =
trick=20
>      (which is where mine is leaking, so that trick probably would =
have=20
>      helped).  Any others?

I just had my gasket replaced on my 68 400 CID 442.  It leaks worse now
= than before I had it fixed!!!!!!  I am ready to really give it to my =
mechanic.  The leak is as Tom wrote "where the front meets the heads".
I would like to = park my car in my driveway, but can't due to leaking
oil.  That is one of the = reasons why I decided to seal up those leaks.
I know that my mechanic used a = Fel-pro gasket.  Could this be the
culprit for the leak?  I am at my wits end.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: ndg@traverse.com (Nielsen Design Group)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:09:00 -0400
Subject: Darren's new ride

Ooooh, Boy- Guess what I bought yesterday!

1968 Delmont 88 4-door (Looks like Bryce's Apprehender- cool!)

Original, untouched Junau Gray (V-V) body: Small dent here & there on rh
side, (gram musta had quite a time driving a boat like this around
Leelanau County) slight edge rust starting on fenders panels, but *no*
rust in doorjambs.

Trim tag shows D for build plant, also found a Kentucky service station
tag.

Bumper chrome beautiful, small dents where gram backed into whatever.

350 2V, 5 heads

Black 2V ac, 'Oldsmobile Rocket 350' metal ac plate, needs hold-down
plate.

TH350 (?) 3 spd (Shifter's tight: Click, click, definitely IN gear!)

PS, PB (Rock hard and stop NOW, makes me wanna do a brakejob on the GP)

PWs work great. Fast, too. (neat!)

Black Bench interior, looks like "the day it was made" (but smells 28
yrs. old)

Auto headlight dim- something's weird as the lo-beam circuit won't work
right.

AM radio, doesn't work- prolly speaker lead fell off.

AC, haven't tried yet.

Hood lights and trunk lights both work.

Ahh, the trunk:
 Perfect aqua pattern cardboard liner
 no rust visible anywhere
 *Pristine* floor jack marked '88/98 1968' (looks NOS, I swear)
 Jack handle still has the gray paint untouched
  (didn't even know the handles were painted!)
 Spare & rustless hold down stuff

Of course, the '68 Rocket sidemarkers!

Man, I love seeing pristine unmolested examples of anything, let alone
Oldmobiles! Buying 'em, of course, is even better!

The really ironic thing is that Chris Witt and I were less than 100 feet
away from this car on Saturday and didn't even know it. I saw the ad
yesterday and took off on lunch hour to go grab it!

I love this thing. Don't know if I have the heart to part with it even
for decent $. But if I keep&drive, I'd feel guilty driving it in the
winter... I don't think this car has ever seen snow. What to do?

Could keep it and use my 7A heads, 4V, cam, etc. Yahhooo! Actually it
runs quite spiritedly for its size and lack of tuneup.

Could even sell it and get a Toro. Then I'd have a REALLY BITCHIN
bigride!

Ahh, the possibilities.....

- -Darren Shroeger

Nielsen Design Group
114 East Front Street
Traverse City, Michigan 49684
t:616.946.0925
f:616.946.2363
e:ndg@traverse.com

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:22:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 200-4R tranny code

I think the codes listed were for special high performance trans.  Your
code will be listed in an '87 chassis manual.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- -----------
Hey,
     I read that E-mail about the 200-4R codes and went home to see
which one I had in my car. The tag on the side of the transmission
didn't have any of the codes listed. On mine it had the code KTF. Does
anybody know what this is? It's an '87 Cutlass Supreme with a 307 but it
didn't have the code that the list said it should.
     Could somebody please help me on this one!

Andy
geetinag@miavx1.muohio.edu
 '87 Cutlass Supreme
 '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
 '74 Delta 88 convertible rocket

------------------------------

From: tonwald@metro2.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 22:28:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

>I just had my gasket replaced on my 68 400 CID 442.  It leaks worse now
than >before I had it fixed!!!!!!  I am ready to really give it to my
mechanic.  The >leak is as Tom wrote "where the front meets the heads".
I would like to park >my car in my driveway, but can't due to leaking
oil.  That is one of the >reasons >why I decided to seal up those leaks.
I know that my mechanic used a Fel-pro >gasket.  Could this be the
culprit for the leak?  I am at my wits end. > >Chris Sparks


Chris --

Are you leaking antifreeze or oil?  It seems that you said oil.  A few
years back I completed a stock rebuild on my 69 442 W-30 400.  My heads
were slightly warped due to a over-heating problem that brought on the
overhaul.  Wanting to keep the original "D" heads on the car I had the
heads surfaced slightly to take out the warp.  The guy at the machine
shop also took a small amount off of my intake manifold so that things
would line up.  This caused my intake to be a little lower on the deck
of the block. When I torqued down the manifold,  the rubber seals that
go across the deck squished out between the block and intake causing a
HUGE oil leak from the rear of the manifold!  I ended up taking the
rubber seals out completely and running a bead of silicone across the
front and rear of the block.

All sealed up!  No more leaks!  I used a Victor bathtub gasket,  but
keep in mind that I had no coolant or vacuum leaks.....Just oil.
Especially after driving the car hard. (It was a 4-spd with a 4:33 rear
ratio)

Tony

Cars.......                                    Boats...............
70 442 W-30                                    70 Rayson Craft
flat-bottom w/ 70 Toro GT W-34                                455 Olds
V-drive 65 Jetstar 88 w/4spd                           79 Sidewinder jet
455 Olds 85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer                86 Welcraft Nova
454 Chev 92 Seville STS

 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/+++\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\_\_


                                        Tony Waldner
tonwald@metro2.k12.mn.us                Northeast Metro 916
                                         3300 Century Ave. N.
                                         White Bear Lake, MN
                                                       55110

 \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_+++_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/_/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:45:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

I guess I should consider myself lucky. When I replaced the lifters on
my '68 350 this summer, the original intake gasket was 2 separate
strips on either bank, with rubber seals at the front and back of the
valley. It was replaced with a one-piece "turkey tray" style (don't
know the manufacturer) that we had kicking around here. We had to
remove a metal tray that was mounted under the intake to get this to
fit (I assume it collected oil somehow, don't know exactly), and used
silicone gasketmaker liberally on all 4 corners of the intake and in
conjunction with the rubber seals at either end. Not a leak in sight!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:51:24 -0400
Subject: Cutlass Courtship

I have always admired the 81-88 vintage Cutlass, and have thought that I
 wouldn't mind having one someday (along with an 80-85 Delta 2-door, a
54-57 hardtop, the 70-71 SX or 4-4-2 convert... you get the idea). For a
 long time now I have noticed one every day while walking to work in
the morning. It's of unknown vintage (I think 83 to 86), sort of an
off-white, with a very dark half-vinyl roof, T-tops, SSIIIs, and
absolutely pristine despite being driven to work every day. That is rare
 for these cars around here, because most of them have succumbed to the
 rust bug. This one looks extremely well-taken care of.

Something possessed me yesterday, and I pulled a Chris Witt stunt - I
left a note on the windshield. I haven't heard from the owner yet, but
if I do I hope the price they quote is within reason. I would *love* to
have this car. It's one of the more handsome ones I've seen. Wish me
luck...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:54:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Gaskets

Tony wrote:

Thanks for responding back Tony.

> Are you leaking antifreeze or oil?  It seems that you said oil.  A few

Well It seems like oil to me.  It is dark and shiny.  Do you think that
if I had an antifreeze leak that it would squirt onto the engine which
has old oil and appear to be leaking oil?  I'll have to check on this
one but I do see a fresh ooze of oil coming out of Intake manifold near
the front to the left of the water pump.

> from the rear of the manifold!  I ended up taking the rubber seals out
> completely and running a bead of silicone across the front and rear of
the > block.

According to the mechanic who did the work, he states that he used
silicone on the corners to seal it up.  I can't tell if he did.  I am
not mechanically inclined and take the mechanic at face value.  Probably
a mistake on my part.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Steven Larry Cannon <slcannon@uncc.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:17:27 -0400
Subject: VCR heads

Hey Brad,

	Cable's working fine now all sixty something channels, but the VCR
heads probably do need cleaning because right after pressing "play"
everything gets kinda smoky and it automatically goes to "fast forward".
If I clean the "heads" it'll probably just "fast forward" even faster!
I'm beginning to really like these new VCR's.

Steve

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:20:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

> > I think my distributor advance may be broken/off/wrong.  The engine
> > runs just fine if I accellerate lightly, but when I step on it the
> > engine bogs down and then lugs slowly up to speed.  I think this is
> > because the distributor doesn't advance the timing enough (at all?).
> > Am I right about this?  What else might cause it?
>
> I am 99.9% sure that what you are describing is an incredible
> secondary bog on your quadrajet carb (you have a 4-barrel, right?
> If not, then stop reading now...). Your secondary air valve spring
> either has broken or loosened up, causing the bog. It either has to
> be replaced or tightened.

I should have said so at the start, but yes I've got a Quadrajet
on a stock manifold, 455 engine, B heads, stock exhaust manifolds
with that odd center crossover pipe and one line out to the tail.

I know the spring you are talking about.  I'll double check the
tension on it.  Is there a good "backyard" method for setting the
tension on that spring?  How tight is "too tight"?  How loos is
"too loose"?

> A distributor problem would not cause a bog; a loss of power,
> perhaps, but not a bog.

Well hmm.  Maybe "bog" was a bad choice of words.  I'll put it
like this.  If I'm sitting there in park/neutral the engine is
very responsive to the throttle.  However it does sound to me like
the secondaries only open slightly if at all when I absolutly mash
the pedal from idle, and not at all if I am even slightly less
leadfooted.  However, when i get the engine in gear and start
going down the road there is a definite point in the pedal beyond
which the power drops off CONSIDERABLY.  If I ease back on the
pedal the engine will get its power back and accellerate on up
well enough.  If I stay on the pedal it sits there trying and
trying and eventually it will get up to speed, sometime after the
bicycles have passed me.  I'm not sure, but that point in the
pedal may be where the secondaries (try to) open up.  I keep
thinking I'll do some runs with the hood and air cleaner off to
see what is going on with the carb.  Actually what I'd really like
to do is mount a video camera over the engine and get it on tape,
but that's not very likely. :)


- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: tonwald@metro2.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:25:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 454 CONVERSION???

>          Is this easier/cheaper than building the Olds motor?
>          Probably not, but I'm certainly biased.  Is it
>          easier/cheaper to get horsepower out of a big block Chevy?
>          Probably.  Keep in mind that every winning Pro Stock motor
>          (including the DRCE) is based on the BBC.
 It cost me roughly the same to build the BBC and the BBO for about the
same horsepower output for my boats.  (513 @ 5450 rpm for the BBO and
531 @ 6400 rpm on the BBC  at about 3 grand a piece). > >          Now,
before the lynching party gets organized, let me say >          that
none of this has deterred me from being a die-hard Olds >
fanatic; in fact the only BBC I own is the 454 in my crew >          cab
dually - which I am planning to swap for a 455 Olds this >
spring.  And keep in mind that I am not addressing >
durability, serviceability, or anything other than >          horsepower
production potential.  At the same time, let's >          not kid
ourselves - we definitely have an uphill battle when >          building
an Olds motor. > >    Hats off to Joe!   A exellent letter full of
information!  I am a die >hard Olds fan from the get-go and have been
teased plenty of times at the >strip by all of the "other guys" for
running my 85 Olds.  I still hold a >great deal of respect fo the BBC
because I have seen the power potential >of these engines at the strip
and on water.  (Joe,  The only BBC I have is >in a boat.) Don't lynch me
guys and gals.... I still eat sleep and breathe >Olds all the way!  I
just like the way Joe stated his well written letter >and even mentioned
the Drag Race Competition Engine's ties with the BBC.

Tony

Cars.........                                        Boats...........

70 442 W-30                                          70 Rason Craft flat
bottom
70 Toro GT W-34                                      455 Olds v-drive
65 Jetstar 88 w/4 spd                                79 Sidewinder jet
455 Olds 85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer                      86
Wellcraft Nova 454 Chev 92 Seville STS

------------------------------

From: tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:30:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

> First, take off the cap and rotor. Then, inspect the weights for
> freedom of movement and check the springs for equal tension. You
> may also want to look at the vacuum advance diaphragm. this will
> require a hand held vacuum pump (around $15). Lube the weights
> with something, oil, silicone gease, etc. if they are rusty or stiff.
> Don't use a lot. I had these problems on my 65 330 motor when i
> first got it. It had been sitting in storage for 20 some-odd
> years with nothing done to it.  It's pretty easy. Also, you can
> buy weight replacement kits that comes with new springs of various
> tensions. I now use the lightest springs.

Well, the motor did sit for a few years before I started trying to
revive it.  I gave the springs and weights (along with the points)
a quick check when I was putting the engine back in the car and
getting everything lined up.  I didn't notice any problems then.
I'll check it again.

What's a good source for weight replacement kits?  I assume different
applications use different weights. (?)  If so can someone tell
me what the correct weights would be for my application?  I've got
a 455, Q-jet on a stock manifold, B heads, unknown and assumed stock
cam, regular compression ration, stock exhaust manifolds down to
a single tailpipe.  All in all a fairly stock non-performance engine.

- - Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
- --
Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products Division
tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications Corporation

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <76057.1404@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:39:40 -0400
Subject: Spoiler/rust....

I had a problem with a leaky spoiler on my 1995 Grand Prix from the day
it was new.  When I removed the spoiler, somebody had cobbled up the
holes on installation.  I removed the factory foam gaskets (they look
pretty useless to me) and used a product called 'Coax-Seal' instead.  It
is a sticky, black, rubbery tape about 1/8" thick.  It is used to seal
up coaxial connectors on cables.  I cut it to fit  the whole underside
of the spoiler supports.  It works perfectly!!  After a 1.5 years there
is not even a drip.  It can be found at most electronic supply houses, I
think Radio Shack, and mail order such as MCM Electronics.  Another
product that would work, but probably not quite as well is 3M Scotchfil.
It performs the same function as Coax-Seal, but it is more rubbery and
less sticky.  It doesn't conform quite as well to variations and voids.

     Do NOT use any type of foam weatherstripping.  The foam wicks the
water into the joint causing rust.  If you can't find the material, let
me know. Steve 1987 Olds 442 1976 Cutlass S 76057.1404@compuserve.com

------------------------------

From: DESIMONEP@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 13:01:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Mondello address?

In a message dated 96-10-28 07:57:54 EST, you write:

> Sorry, the book was kind of old and that's all I had readily
available, sorry >  for any inconvenience. > >  Katana72

I would rather have old information than NO information, thanks for
posting!!

Phil De Simone
desimonep@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:47:58 -0400
Subject: Re: VCR heads

Steven Larry Cannon wrote:
>
> Hey Brad,
>
>         Cable's working fine now all sixty something channels, but the
VCR heads probably do need cleaning because right after pressing "play"
everything gets...

I suppose this is related to the TV cable discussion???

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:04:17 -0400
Subject: Re: 454 CONVERSION???

>
>~~~~~~~subliminal message~~~~~  don't buy bowtie~!~~~~~~  If this isn't
>enough of an arguement to that philosophy, just go watch ~any~ chevy
guy (or >girl, ya know PC and all!) change out a set of spark plugs on
their >wonderful little mouse, ~especially~ if they have headers (which,
of the >racers, they all do, it seems!) > >     Enuff of HP101 for now.
Class dismissed!

I can relate to this. To change the spark plugs in the Z/28 is usually a
3-4 hour job. I changed the plugsin my 442 in 1/2 hour. - - - - - - - -
- - - - Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (jlabay@kent.edu)
Sports Administration graduate student at Kent State University 88
Camaro Iroc-Z/28...see it in the December issue of Chevy High
Performance 80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30.... see it at
http://www.442.com/labay.html

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:04:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 454 CONVERSION???

>          Now, before the lynching party gets organized, let me say
>          that none of this has deterred me from being a die-hard Olds
>          fanatic; in fact the only BBC I own is the 454 in my crew
>          cab dually - which I am planning to swap for a 455 Olds this
>          spring.  And keep in mind that I am not addressing
>          durability, serviceability, or anything other than
>          horsepower production potential.  At the same time, let's
>          not kid ourselves - we definitely have an uphill battle when
>          building an Olds motor.  It just makes it that much sweeter
>          when trailering that Chevy at the strip.  Besides, if it we
>          wanted to take the easy way out, we'd all be driving
>          Camaros! (sorry Jason)

Hey now! Don't be knocking on the Camaro's:) I understand where you are
coming from though. I find it much more pleasing to go out and race the
442 than the Z/28. Everyone has a Z/28 it seems. The only real reasons I
drive the Z/28 are: 1-girls love the car and 2-it cost me nearly nothing
to build. I have been looking for ways to get an Olds 455 out of a 72
Toro in my Z/28 but I think there would be too many mods to do. Hood
clearance, front suspension, body flex, rear suspension, etc. The body
is its stock state probably could not handle the torque of the 455. I
became a Chevy fan by default since my dad owned a 66 Nova SS, 61
Impala, 72 Camaro SS and a 69 Yenko Nova. I need to experience the power
of a well built Olds engine as I have only rode in built Chevy's. I like
to be different and I am trying to get my dad to convert his 74 El
Camino SS to a 455 Olds....a real hard task! > >          Joe
Padavano >          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com > >          66
442 >          68 W-30 >          69 H/O >          70 W-30 > > > > - -
- - - - - - - - - - Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) or
(jlabay@kent.edu) Sports Administration graduate student at Kent State
University 88 Camaro Iroc-Z/28...see it in the December issue of Chevy
High Performance 80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30.... see it at
http://www.442.com/labay.html

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:30:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

At 16:20 10/29/1996 +0000, you wrote:
> I keep thinking I'll do some runs with the hood and air cleaner off to
>see what is going on with the carb.  Actually what I'd really like
>to do is mount a video camera over the engine and get it on tape,
>but that's not very likely. :)
>Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products
Division >tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications
Corporation >>

Hey, heres an idea. Your car has a rather large engine
compartment,right? Well, maybe you could find ask a friend of yours that
is rather small and have him sit on the fender well and look in the carb
and tell you what is happing when you drive the car!!! Just a thought...
Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:31:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Cutlass Courtship

At 15:51 10/29/1996 +0000,Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
>
For a long time now I have noticed one every day while walking to work
in the >morning. It's of unknown vintage (I think 83 to 86),

Hey Greg,I have always looked at the taillight lenses to see the year
molded on the lense.I think this trick works for most years/makes +
models. If you can get close enough to leave a note, you should take a
look at the lenses. See ya.. Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:44:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

On Tue, 29 Oct 1996, Brad Baker wrote:
> Hey, heres an idea. Your car has a rather large engine
compartment,right? > Well, maybe you could find ask a friend of yours
that is rather small and > have him sit on the fender well and look in
the carb and tell you what is > happing when you drive the car!!! Just a
thought...

I dunno, I guess I'm easily amused or something. I read this and started
 ROTFL. I can picture this myself - I have a diminutive friend who
would just love this in fact. Take off the hood, strap him to the
fender, and let him observe the engine while you drive. Great until you
have to floor it at about 45 to try and diagnose that secondaries
problem... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:46:10 -0400
Subject: Q-jet air valve adjustment (was: Distributor advice wanted)


I know the spring you are talking about.  I'll double check the
tension on it.  Is there a good "backyard" method for setting the
tension on that spring?  How tight is "too tight"?  How loos is
"too loose"?

          The following process has always worked well for me.  Note
          that this is easiest with the carb (or at least the air
          horn) off the car.  It is possible to perform the adjustment
          on the car, but you will need an inspection mirror to see
          the spring.  Actually, I find that having adjusted a number
          of Q-jets, I've developed a "feel" for when the spring
          contacts the air valve pin which doesn't require actually
          seeing it.  Besides, since this is an iterative process, it
          is not a very precise adjustment.

          You will need a very small flat bladed screwdriver (to fit
          the adjustment screw) and an allen wrench (to fit the
          locking screw).  You must either warm up the car to the
          point that the choke is fully opened or else have a helper
          hold it completely open.

          Start by removing the air cleaner. Loosen the locking screw
          and completely back off the adjusting screw until the air
          valve moves freely.  (I can never remember which way is
          which - I think clockwise is loosen and counterclockwise is
          tighten for the spring adjustment.  Unfortunately I don't
          have a Q-jet handy here at the office).  Hold the air valve
          closed (your helper can now release the choke plate and hold
          the air valve instead). Assuming CCW is tighten, slowly turn
          the screw until the hook in the spring just contacts the pin
          on the air valve shaft (this is where the inspection mirror
          is required).  You can also feel this point if you tap the
          air valve while turning the adjusting screw - the air valve
          will move freely until the spring contacts the pin.  From
          this point of initial contact, turn an additional 3/4 turn
          and, while holding the adjusting screw, tighten the lock
          screw.

          I've always found this 3/4 turn adjustment to be a good
          starting point.  You can now go off and make a few WOT runs
          and check for bog.  Your goal is to have as little tension
          in the spring as possible (for the quickest air valve
          opening) without having the car bog.  Don't be afraid to try
          different adjustments, as you can always come back to this
          original setting.  If you feel that you must make the
          adjustment _tighter_ than 3/4 turn, do not ever go past one
          full turn, as this will damage the spring.  If this does not
          cure the bog, you have a different problem.

          Hope this helps

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: vdorey@maind.dnet.dupont.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:57:22 -0400
Subject: Attention all 89' Cutlass Supreme owners

	I own a 1989 Cutlass Supreme FE3. I currently have two problems:

	It is a digital dash and the odometer/trip meter has had a seizure!
I have had the dash apart and don't beleive the problem to be here.
Could it be a chip in the main brain in the left fender?  Can I just
replace the chip?  What it does is flash an arbitrary number, show
"ERROR", or start counting from "0".  What gives?

	Number 2:  The digital gas guage is dead although periodically in
	sub-zero temps it works temporarily and also when I "Dukes of Hazard"
	a pothole.  Is there a connection in this loop that is prone to
failure? Can the sending unit be removed without the tank being removed?
	Can the sending unit be repaired by me or are these made to throw away?

		
							Thanks,

							Victor
		
							89' Cutlass
							84' Monte SS
							355 sbc 4-speed manual

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:50:48 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Cutlass Courtship


Hey Greg,I have always looked at the taillight lenses to see the year
molded on the lense.I think this trick works for most years/makes +
models.

          While this trick worked during the period of annual model
          styling changes, many cars today use the same taillight
          lenses over a period of several years.  What you will find
          out is the first year of use of that taillight, but not
          necessarily the correct year of the car.  Aren't all 83-87
          Cutlass taillights the same?

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:07:42 -0400
Subject: FAQ 2.0

The latest FAQ is ready for release.  The crowd mumbles, "Finally!  I
was really getting tired of all those 'FAQ 2.0 due soon' .sigs of
Dave's!'"


As you know, I've been working on the 2.0 version of the FAQ for a while
 now.  I incorporated the info I had, was about to release it, when I
found a relatively easy way to add a Table of Contents and Index.  A
number of people asked for it and it was really needed.  So now it has
a pretty comprehensive Index and nice Table of Contents.  And Word even
allowed exporting the Index and TOC into a nice ASCII format!
Excellent!

When a few editing changes and last minute additions were being put in,
I decided to convert it's source to HTML.  This has been good and bad.
No more converting to HTML every time another is released and everyone
with a web browser has a nice reader (with an Internet connection or
not), but it will be a while before the HTML is finished.

While I am converting the rest of the FAQ into HTML, I felt I should
release the text version so everyone can benefit now, and make changes
and additions.

The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on mailboxes
being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last time, what about
 316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?  Offer
up!

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

------------------------------

From: Matt Breitbach <mbreitba@iastate.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:29:57 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

>The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on mailboxes
>being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last time, what
about >316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?
Offer up! >
        316K is ok for me, got a 10 meg limit.  send it soon

matt breitbach
mbreitba@iastate.edu

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:32:44 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cutlass Courtship

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBC5A6.0CD8D300
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I thought the 83 tail light was split down the middle vertically, and =
the rest
 were solid except for the rocket emblem in the middle. Then there is =
the Cyclops light  on the rear deck that started in 86. If it doesn''t =
have that
then it is an 85 or 84, 83 if the tail light is split down the middle.

- ----------
From: 	JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com[SMTP:JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, October 29, 1996 1:50 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re[2]: Cutlass Courtship

         =20
Hey Greg,I have always looked at the taillight lenses to see the year =
molded on=20
the lense.I think this trick works for most years/makes + models.
         =20
          While this trick worked during the period of annual model=20
          styling changes, many cars today use the same taillight=20
          lenses over a period of several years.  What you will find=20
          out is the first year of use of that taillight, but not=20
          necessarily the correct year of the car.  Aren't all 83-87=20
          Cutlass taillights the same?
         =20
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
         =20
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30





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------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:31:14 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0


Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?  Offer up!

          Oink, Oink!  OOOH OOOH Take me!  Take me!

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:31:45 -0400
Subject: Increasing a car's value???

Earlier today someone talked about adding some "W-Machine" items to his
"non W-Machine" and asked about increasing the car's value.

My .02 worth:  The car's value only matters if it is going to be sold.
If you are going to keep this car, make it the way YOU like it.

Strictly speaking, a car is worth more in original condition (ie. as
delivered to the original owner.)  In the case of a Cutlass/442, I think
we can all recount stories of seeing a W-30 clone, or a 442 clone that
was being passed off as original.  If you make these mods. please use
good sense not to mis-represent the vehicle.

A couple of folks on the list have offered to sell me the correct
tri-power setup for my '66 442.  While I like to think that if I ordered
the car new I would have gone for the 3 dueces (and the W-30), my car
will retain its original Q-Jet because originality is what's important
to me.

We're all different, and every car is too, that's what makes this so
much fun!

Again, just my .02 worth.

Mike Turley        '66 442
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:51:11 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

David Brown wrote:

> The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on mailboxes
 > being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last time, what
about > 316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?
Offer up!

Egads!  All of the messages are coming to my work.  Anything this big
might raise flags.  How about an ftp site??

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Etzel Bobby" <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:57:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Distributor advice wanted

I am new to the list and enjoy reading about 442's. The information
presented here is the best that can be found on OLDS Classic Cars. I
have a 70 442 that I have been restoreing for about five years. It runs
and looks great.

Now to your question.... I had the same trouble with a Pont.Firebird
once. It ran OK except when I would go to WOT, after a lot of
troubleshooting on the carb. it turned out to be the fuel pump. I
replaced the pump and it ran like new. Hope this helps.

Bobby

70 442
92 Seville
88 Seville
________________________________________________________________________
_______ From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Tue, Oct 29, 1996 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

At 16:20 10/29/1996 +0000, you wrote:
> I keep thinking I'll do some runs with the hood and air cleaner off to
>see what is going on with the carb.  Actually what I'd really like
>to do is mount a video camera over the engine and get it on tape,
>but that's not very likely. :)
>Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products
Division >tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications
Corporation >>

Hey, heres an idea. Your car has a rather large engine
compartment,right? Well, maybe you could find ask a friend of yours that
is rather small and have him sit on the fender well and look in the carb
and tell you what is happing when you drive the car!!! Just a thought...
Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible



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charset="us-ascii" To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca From:	Brad Baker
<bradbaker@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted
Date:	Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:30:57 -0400 Message-ID:
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------------------------------

From: Chris Sparks <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:57:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Increasing a car's value???

Mike Turley wrote:

> Earlier today someone talked about adding some "W-Machine" items to
his > "non W-Machine" and asked about increasing the car's value.

It is I, Chris Sparks.

>
> My .02 worth:  The car's value only matters if it is going to be sold.
If > you are going to keep this car, make it the way YOU like it.

I love my car and probably won't sell it.

>
> Strictly speaking, a car is worth more in original condition (ie. as
delivered > to the original owner.)  In the case of a Cutlass/442, I
think we can all > recount stories of seeing a W-30 clone, or a 442
clone that was being passed > off as original.  If you make these mods.
please use good sense not to > mis-represent the vehicle.

Well if options were available to non-W30 models than technically adding
these things on would be considered "as delivered".  Heck people did a
lot of customizing back then I would assume.

Thanks

Chris Sparks

P.S. Your name seems so familiar to me.  Did you ever live in Southern
     California as a teenager and attended Woodrow Wilson High School in
     Long Beach or Washington Jr. High in Long Beach?

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:17:54 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: FAQ 2.0

This is a good idea, actually the way I would like to distribute it.
And it would work better for many people as Chris points out.  I'm
working on a web site, at the moment, where it could be downloaded.

BTW, 316K is uncompressed, and the pkzipped version is 116K compressed.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 due soon!

- -----------
David Brown wrote:

> The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on mailboxes
 > being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last time, what
about > 316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?
Offer up!

Egads!  All of the messages are coming to my work.  Anything this big
might raise flags.  How about an ftp site??

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:25:40 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

On 29 Oct 96 at 15:07, David Brown wrote:

> The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on
> mailboxes being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last
> time, what about 316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are
> in order?  Offer up!

I'm game....

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442
mikec@oz.kis.net

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:31:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Increasing a car's value???



My .02 worth:  The car's value only matters if it is going to be sold.
If you are going to keep this car, make it the way YOU like it.

          Absolutely!  The only consideration, IMHO, is to limit mods
          to those which are reversible (ie, bolt-ons), should one
          ever decide to revert to original.  This is especially
          important if the car is more rare (442/W-car/Hurst/Olds).  A
          base 6-cylinder F-85 is unlikely to ever appreciate to the
          point that an expensive restoration is justified.

Strictly speaking, a car is worth more in original condition....  If you
make these mods. please use good sense not to mis-represent the
vehicle.

          Well said.  To the person who wrote the original post:  If
          you want to add the W-30 parts, go for it.  Be aware,
          however, that the 68 parts are extremely rare and likely to
          be very expensive.

A couple of folks on the list have offered to sell me the correct
tri-power setup for my '66 442.  While I like to think that if I
ordered the car new I would have gone for the 3 dueces (and the W-30),
my car will retain its original Q-Jet because originality is what's
important to me.

          OK, but you may not be aware that the tripower setup, as
          well as the W-30 parts, were available as over-the-couter
          dealer-installed kits in 1966.  The tripower setup included
          the manifold, carb, air cleaners, and all linkages and
          plumbing.  The W-30 kit included the big chrome air cleaner,
          hoses, bumper scoops, and the 328 degree cam and lifters.
          You could therefore add the tripower and (assuming you could
          find it) the W-30 parts and still be period correct.

We're all different, and every car is too, that's what makes this so
much fun!

Again, just my .02 worth.

Mike Turley        '66 442
turley@symplex.com

          Agreed.  The number one goal is to have fun.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:14:57 -0400
Subject: For David Brown (re: FAQ 2.0)


          (Sorry for sending this over the list, but my direct reply
          to you didn't go through)

          I got the FAQ, thanks

          It seems that the formatting (primarily the tabs on tables)
          is messed up, but otherwise it appears to all be there on my
          initial pass through it.  I'll read it in detail tonight.

          BTW, I'm using cc:mail.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

------------------------------

From: "Delk, Mitch S" <msdelk@ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:40:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Increasing a car's value???

I also have .02 worth to add...

I agree that a 442/W-30 or any other rare car should be kept as close to
original as possible. Keeps the value up and more people are willing to
lay out the big cash for a "correct" car.

I also feel that picking up on trim/style/paint queues that the factory
did originally and then putting your own twist on it, keeps the intent
of the original designer as well as letting you have fun.

...what I have in mind for painting my '71 Cutlass Holiday Coupe is
this:

Paint the whole body of car a vanilla (off) white.
Paint the concave area on the back/trunk of the car a medium
yellow/brown color. (not gold, because imho, it's too close to a H/O)
Paint 2 stripes on the hood same color, following the contours. like an
OAI hood with no air scoops. (my hood has the chrome inserts. run
stripes around them)

Now it has the BASIC paint scheme in back as a '68 H/O (or is it '69?the
silver/black ones) (you could add those stripes on the side that run
along the top of the fender and up under the window). In the front it
hints at looking like a 442. But it's not. and not meant to be. But it
is painted like a stylish OLDS.

I personally don't have a problem doing this to a 350 2bbl S coupe I
paid very little for and it will probably never be a real collector car.
(the way a 442 is)

Mitch Delk
Huntsville, Alabama
'71 Cutlass "S"
'96 VW Passat
'88 Bronco II

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:58:34 -0400
Subject: Re: CORRECT WINDSHIELD WASHER BOTTLE COLOR

>My '68 was built in Oshawa and has a black washer bottle.
>Greg Beaulieu

My '69 built in Lansing has a black one...
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: "Delk, Mitch S" <msdelk@ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:09:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Increasing a car's value???

On the same note... My steering wheel was cracked/slap wore out. I
wanted to try and find a 4 spoke brushed steel 442 type of wheel. No
luck. Hens teeth as far as I can tell. What I did find is a 3 spoke
brushed steel wheel on a 81 or so Cutlass. paid salvage yard owner 10
bucks. Got it home and it fits perfect (!) after rotating the horn
button assembly 180 degrees. (horn works too) Rubber on wheel is falling
apart. Filled low spots and such with RTV form-a-gasket and let dry for
a few days. Covered with cheapie steering wheel cover. Looks pretty darn
good. RTV is rubbery like rest of wheel  and keeps cover from slipping
too. Collar of wheel same size as steering column (hmm. wow.). Olds
symbol in the middle and everything. (we'll see how long that RTV
lasts.)

>
>Mitch Delk
>Huntsville, Alabama
>'71 Cutlass "S"
>'96 VW Passat
>'88 Bronco II
>

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:20:49 -0400
Subject: Automatic Transmission Identification

I have a 1988 Olds Custom Cruiser with a 307 engine and a 4 speed
automatic transmission. Could someone please describe the differences
(visual) between the 700 and the 200 transmissions. Are the pans
different and if so how. Any help would be greatly appreciated. John
+==========================+ | John and Elizabeth Gene  | |
mailto:gene@cybernex.net | +==========================+

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:20:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo

Chris Sparks writes:
>I just got my speedometer fixed and noticed that it wobble +/- 5 mph
when >I am >driving.  Is this normal?

Nope. Sounds like a speedo cable that has losts it's lube. Generous
supply silicone lube ought to help, maybe solve, your problem... I
posted a while back a procedure to "clean" a older cable, sort of
"restifying"... is that in our Olds FAQ? I guess I will have to look.

BTW: I would advise to put silicone in a brand new cable as the silicone
 will "wick" its way right out of the cable if given enough time and if
 the cable is placed in such a way that the fluid can leave just by
gravity. The older cables can and often do sit on manufacturers shelves
for years. Service parts, as the supplier community calls them, builds
parts for the automakers and the orders become less and less frequent as
 the years go on. What is normally the case, a mfg. will build a couple
 hundred or thousand or so parts and then just pick the parts off of
the inventory as the orders come in. Engineering at the automakers is
non-existant at the automakers once the cars/trucks are out of
production so there is little to fear from having to remake your
inventory from a potential Engineering change...


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Teleflex E-Mail: TFX!TFXTROYMI!TFXTROYPO!mikeh@tfx.attmail.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:40:02 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

David Brown writes:
>The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on mailboxes
>being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last time, what
about >316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?
Offer up!


Send her here, I have a 10 MB mailbox too!


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Teleflex E-Mail: TFX!TFXTROYMI!TFXTROYPO!mikeh@tfx.attmail.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:39:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Increasing a car's value???

Mike Turley writes:
>My .02 worth:  The car's value only matters if it is going to be sold.
If >you are going to keep this car, make it the way YOU like it.


I couldn't agree more!

Here is my .02 worth. The price of anything is what someone will pay for
 it and has no coorelation to what you originally paid or invested...


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Teleflex E-Mail: TFX!TFXTROYMI!TFXTROYPO!mikeh@tfx.attmail.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 19:03:13 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: FAQ 2.0

Ok, the guinea pigs have stood up and have received the 2.0 FAQ.  I am
currently working on an FTP site and ftp download from a couple of web
pages.  Now to get the HTML version done . . .

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    Check out: www.442.com      www.oldsmobile.com
               FAQ version 2.0 NOW!

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:31:43 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

David Brown wrote:
>
> The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on mailboxes
> being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last time, what
about > 316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are in order?
Offer up! > >

Pick me!

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:05:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: FAQ 2.0

David Brown wrote:
>
> I am currently working on an FTP site and ftp download from a couple
of > web pages.  Now to get the HTML version done . . .

Let me know if I can be of any help.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:12:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Darren's new ride

Darren wrote:
>
> 1968 Delmont 88 4-door (Looks like Bryce's Apprehender- cool!)
> Man, I love seeing pristine unmolested examples of anything, let alone
> Oldmobiles! Buying 'em, of course, is even better!

Sounds like a hell of a find.  Some people have all the luck.

How is Chris, anyway?

> Could even sell it and get a Toro. Then I'd have a REALLY BITCHIN
> bigride!

Now yer talkin!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: aq302@detroit.freenet.org (Art E. Heckman)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 20:46:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

>
>I think my distributor advance may be broken/off/wrong.  The engine
>runs just fine if I accellerate lightly, but when I step on it the
>engine bogs down and then lugs slowly up to speed.  I think this is
>because the distributor doesn't advance the timing enough (at all?).
>Am I right about this?  What else might cause it?
>
>If I am right, and I need to fix/replace my distributor, how should
>I go about doing it?  Ideally I'd like to have a replacement in hand
>ready to go and just swap the two out.  I assume I can probably find
>a replacement unit in a junk yard.  What should I look for in the
>junk yard unit?  Once I have the unit what do I need to do to it to
>prepare it properly?  I've heard that there are "rebuild kits" on
>the market.  Will this guide me through the steps or is this a
>bad idea?  If it is a bad idea, what would be a good idea? :)
>I'm fairly good with mechanical things, and I follow instructions
>well, but this is new territory for me.  I've never done anything
>more to a distributor than replace a cap and rotor (haven't even had
>to change/adjust the points yet).
>
>What about moving to some kind of electronic unit?  I'm more interested
>in reliability (or perhaps repairability) than performance.  My only
>experience with electronic distributors came with a MGB and they were
>for $#!+ there -- the electronic control module was forever burning
>itself out.  Then again that car was rather messed up electronicly
>anyway, they'd only just recently come around to the idea of negative
>earth.
>
>- Travis and the 69 olds 98 convertible aka "Tiny"
>--
>Travis McWaters                           Transmission Products
Division >tmcwater@imtn.tpd.dsccc.com               DSC Communications
Corporation > > > >
             For most point type distributors, converting to a
electronic breakerless distributor is the only way to go. I have had
very good luck using the IGNITOR breakerless electronic ignition
system. You use you point type distributer and in about 30 minutes of
work you can convert over. The advantages are that you still will look
stock, and have trouble-free performance also. Also, you won't have to
fool around with changing points ever again. I've installed two of
these units on my own cars and would NEVER go back to points. You can
get this unit from J.C. WHITNEY for about $70. There are other sources
also. NORTHERN Auto Parts Warehouse,Inc. has them for about $58. There
is no need to buy expensive distributers when you use this easy
conversion kit.
                           Art Heckman

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:24:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor advice wanted

>I have had very good luck
>using the IGNITOR breakerless electronic ignition system.
>I've installed two of these units on my own
>cars and would NEVER go back to points.

What about reliability?  And replacement parts if the unit should break?
Those are two of my concerns when deciding whether to go to HEI, or with
just a points replacement unit.  I'm also not sure the HEI will fit
under my stock air cleaner, which I want to keep, so I'm swaying toward
the points replacement thing.  But then, I'm concerned about
reliability, etc.  It's a viscous cycle! - -- Dave Paulison
1969 Cutlass Supreme Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GS dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Robert Whitaker <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 23:03:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb faq's and id

buehner wrote:
>
> I just checked the FAQ just in case, but found a big blank, so I'll
ask all. > Does anyone know of or have access to a comprehensive listing
of carburator > casting #s?  It would be kind of interesting to know
what half of my > collection came off of, and what (by numbers) would
work closest for certain > applications. > >

I don't know of any comprehensive list of carburetor casting numbers.  I
am assuming you mean quadrajets here.  I have an excellent article I
can post here (I'll have to find it first) on decoding Rochester
Quadrajet numbers.  It's really not hard at all.  If anyone is
interested I'll post it.  It won't provide application information, but
will at least tell you if it is an Oldsmobile carburetor, year, etc.
Some literature I've run across (especially on the 69 H/O) identifies
casting numbers for specific applications Hursts, W-30's, etc.

I do have an application list for Holleys, 1961-1971.  It would take me
a few days to type it and get it posted.  E-mail me direct if you're
interested - not much Oldsmobile application.


Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

------------------------------

From: "C.K.G-B" <bluffin@netins.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 00:49:35 -0400
Subject: (no subject)

unsubsribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 22:01:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Darren's new ride

In a message dated 96-10-29 10:14:26 EST, you write:

> PB (Rock hard and stop NOW,

Been there.  The brakes in my '67 Ninety Eight are the same way.  That
car comes to a screeching halt if you just breathe on the brake pedal.
I like to watch the mechanics that work on it stop for the first time.
Their eyes get REAL big.

Paul

------------------------------

From: "Brendan P. Foley" <bfoley@ezl.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 22:07:14 -0400
Subject: Exhaust Manifold or Intake Manifold?

I own a 71 Cutlass Conv. with a 350 Rocket. The car has 170K and the
engine has 40K, I want to improve engine performance. Should I start
with new exhaust headers or a new intake manifold? I believe my right
exhaust manifold is leaking a little.

Brendan P. Foley
St.Louis, MO.		71 Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:39:54 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

Mike Hall wrote:
>
> David Brown writes:
> >The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on
mailboxes > >being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last
time, what about > >316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are
in order?  Offer up!

hey, send me an uncompressed version.  I have plenty-o-room!

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "C.K.G-B" <bluffin@netins.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 02:09:49 -0400
Subject: Bye for now

Thanks for your help for the right thing to do to get off this list.

I'm not leaving mad, I'll be back, pretty busy getting ready for
winter.		
Take care all

Chris Blumenstein

'77 442 need parts bad
'79 C/S dead

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:20:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Automatic Transmission Identification

The easiest way to tell a 200-4R from a 700-R4 is by looking at their
pans.
 The 700 is rectangular while the 200-4R is long and looks like it has 2
separate sections.  Since a 700-R4 was never put behind an Olds engine
from the factory, it is probably a 200-4R.

Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com
79 Cutlass -> Street/Strip/Show
86 442 -> Summer Driver
79 Cutlass -> Winter Bomb

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:17:35 -0400
Subject: Project: Olds Craft (details)

     Sorry about the delay guys, but here's the final info for the Car
     Craft letter writing campaign.  I'll post this message again 2
weeks
     or so before the deadline.

     The Dream (for those who came in late or were busy showing their
     tallights to a Mustang):  It seems to be a pretty much universal
     feeling here that Car Craft (and the other magazines too, but we
have
     to start somewhere) pretty much ignores Oldsmobiles (and Buicks and

     Pontiacs too) while Chevy-Camaro-Mustanging us to death every
issue.
     In an attempt to convey our feelings and hopefully slap some sense
     into them, it was decided that a letter-writing campaign was a good

     idea.

     The plan:  From this, project Olds Craft was born.  On or about
     December 1st, everyone here, and anyone else you know should send a

     letter, preferably with a picture of your car, to Car Craft
magazine.
     The idea is to get many pro-Olds letters in to them in a short
amount
     of time.  In the letter, state whatever you want, but at least try
to
     be civil or it won't get printed and they may not even read it all.

     It was decided that it might be a good idea to mention this list,
or
     possibly Bryceman's web page.  Perhaps say something like "My car
was
     restored/fixed/kept running with help from the Internet Olds
Mailing
     list and the free technical archives at http://www.442.com".

     Car Craft's Address Is:

     Car Craft
     6420 Wilshire Blvd.
     Los Angeles, CA  90048-5515

     If your picture is in black-and-white, you can send it to the above

     address, but Attn: Reader's Page and perhaps they'll print your car
in
     the back!  FYI, The disclaimer in Car Craft's "Reader's Letters"
     section says ". . .and should include the writer's name, address,
and
     telephone number.  We reserve the right the edit and/or condense
     letters for clarity, brevity, and other purposes".  No, that wasn't
my
     typo, that last "the" was theirs.

     Good luck!  I'm guessing we should see/hear/read any results around

     the March or April issue.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:17:31 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: 454 CONVERSION???

     I agree completely!

     You can tell the chevy owners from the Olds owners in the pits
because
     all the Chevy owners have red scorch marks on their forearms and
     hands.  :-)


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: 454 CONVERSION??? Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    10/28/96 11:05 PM


~~~~~~~subliminal message~~~~~  don't buy bowtie~!~~~~~~  If this isn't
enough of an arguement to that philosophy, just go watch ~any~ chevy guy
(or girl, ya know PC and all!) change out a set of spark plugs on their
 wonderful little mouse, ~especially~ if they have headers (which, of
the racers, they all do, it seems!)


------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 00:26:28 -0400
Subject: Re: id for motor

In a message dated 96-10-27 21:10:45 EST, you write:

<< >>
 >> Check the side of the block by looking up from under the car.  The
 >> c.i.d. or liters should be cast into the block.  They should be in
 >> the middle section of the block under the exhaust manifolds.

 Aside from being difficult to see, these are not found on earlier
engines.
 One other thing you can provide us with is the number or letter cast on
the
 lower-left corner of the head, to the left of the #1 sparkplug (a
number for
 small-block heads, or a letter for big-block heads). >>

I thinnk your block should qualify as having numbers since it is an '81,
unless it is not the stock motor in it.  I have a '77 motor (350), and a
'81 motor (260) and both of them are cast.  I thought I've read that
they started doing this in about the '77 area or so.

Chris.

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 00:26:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Hot Roddin' a 1947 Olds... I need your help!

In a message dated 96-10-25 12:03:55 EDT, you write:

<< Also, Does anyone have a 1981 oldsmobile? (I'm sure someone does!)

 I need a few measurements from it.

 There is an 81 olds in a junk yard that i will be able to use as a
"sub-frame"
 for the 47 but i need measurements for proper frame angle and wheel
alignment.

 the measurements are:

 ground to  inside "A" arm joint
 ground to outside "A" arm joint  (both driver and pass. sides)
 ground to  bottom bumper bolt    (both driver and pass. sides)
 ground to center cross member (between the 2 tires up front)
 ground to level part of frame by the fron door (both driver and pass.
sides)
 center of tire to center of tire measurement for the front wheels

 if anybody can get these measurements for me it would be greatly
appreciated!

 one last thing...  when taking measurements, besure the tires are
properly
 inflated...  (the measurements would be off if the tires were flat!)
=)


 Thanks...

 --joe ferrero >>
Well... I have an '81, but first off, it's got different sized tires on
it, not that it couldn't be accounted for, but with some work.  Second,
it's on ramps, kinda makes it even harder, though this will be remedied
in the next 2 wks or so.  And lastly, I've got a motor to finish
rebuilding (got the lower end together, now timing chain cover, oil pan,
heads, etc. have to go on), especially since it is starting to get cold
here, and I really don't want to spend cold weekends working on the car.
If you can't find someone else who can/is willing to help, and if you
can hold off, and wait for me to get these things taken care of, I'll do
what I can for you.  Let me know if that's the case.

See ya, Chris.

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 00:29:34 -0400
Subject: Resto  Tips  .....

If you have an old bike inner tube lying around... put it to good use!

cut it near the valve stem (leaving about 8 inches space from the cut)

next time you are looking for a heater or radiator core... strap the
tube on the 2 ends where the hoses would attach, and clamp it down with
hose clamps. Pump the tube up with air... if it holds air... it's good.
if not, don't buy it or beware of what you are purchasing with a
"repair" in mind.

This little tool saved me a lot of money at my local "junk yard"



Resto Corner

p.s.  if you don't need that tool... fill the tube up with sand and seal
the ends.  put it in your garage and you can use it as a warning for
your cars distance...  When the front tire hits it and you feel it...
STOP!


Resto Corner

- -Joe Ferrero

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 00:20:31 -0400
Subject: Resto  Tips  .....

J. Todd Hall says that it's a pain in the neck (or to be more specific,
3 feet lower) to get wax out from around moldings and other trim
pieces.

One possible way to remove the wax is to cut the bristles back on a
nylon paint brush (to make the bristles stiffer) and to push it and
twirl it until the wax is removed.

This method can allow a larger handle to grasp and cover a larger area
than the traditional "tooth brush" to cut work time down considerably.

Mr. Hall stresses the importance of using a soft enough bristle that
doesn't scratch but firm enough to do what you want...

Thanks for the great tip!






And remember for all of you...  Keep the tips coming in and Thank you
for supporting "the new kid" on the block.

Resto Corner

- -joe ferrero

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 09:17:15 -0400
Subject: Re: FAQ 2.0

> > David Brown writes:
> > >The FAQ is 316K, uncompressed.  So, what is the consensus on
mailboxes > > >being able to receive this size file?  120K was ok last
time, what about > > >316K this time?  Maybe a couple of guinea pigs are
in order?  Offer up!


I gots the room here too to receive an uncompressed version of the FAQ,
if you'd be so kind as to send it...

Tanx!



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, nickname yet to be determined
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:37:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Project: Olds Craft (details)

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
> Sorry about the delay guys, but here's the final info for the Car
> Craft letter writing campaign.  I'll post this message again 2 weeks
> or so before the deadline.

Tom,

Forwarding this to the Toro List for anyone who's not subscribed here.

> It was decided that it might be a good idea to mention this list, or
> possibly Bryceman's web page.

Hey, we won't be bummed out if anybody mentions the Toro-heads at
http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html

The 66 Toro and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:02:23 -0400
Subject: Re: [Toro] 1979 Oldsmobile diesel to gasoline

Anybody what to send a little advice Susan's way?  She's not listed
in our registry, so I have no idea where she's located.

You can send responses to the Toro List at toro@armchair.mb.ca or
directly to her at susanvega@gowebway.com

The 66 Toro and Mike

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Susan Vega wrote: > > This is for a friend, and hopefully you can help!
She is looking at > where/which technical schools I could pose this
question to:  What > model and year gasoline engines oculd be installed
with minimal motor > mount and exhaust readjustment in a 1979
Oldsmobile diesel.  She's > particularly interested in pre-1980
engines.  Do you think they > (technical schools training in
automotive) would do this and if so, at > approximately what cost?
Thanks for any help or suggestions!!


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #347
********************************


 
 
