
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 8 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4735



RS has that water pump 400269
Re: 455 HEI Tidbit
Carpet - Stock Interiors
Aluminium Intake
RE: Aluminium Intake
Re: more brake fun
Re: Brake bleeding
RE: 455 HEI Tidbit
RE: 455 HEI Tidbit
RE: 455 HEI Tidbit
Re: Aluminium Intake
ahhh, warm
Re: ahhh, warm
Re: 455 HEI Tidbit
My bad (was Re: 455 HEI Tidbit)
Re: ahhh, warm
Re: more brake fun
Re: ahhh, warm
Re: ahhh, warm
Re: ahhh, warm
Re: ahhh, warm
ahhh warm,ice snow flat garage roofs/gutters
Re: My bad (was Re: 455 HEI Tidbit)
Re: more brake fun
Re: more brake fun
Re: more brake fun
Re: more brake fun
Re: more brake fun
Need a Door
Re: more brake fun
Re: Wanted: 62 Starfire/88 Rear Bumper
Anyone near Suffolk, VA?
DOT 5 Fluid vs. 3 & 4
need accurate W31 damper measurements
Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 15:20:58 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RS has that water pump 400269

I have half a dozen or so of them, used condition, rebuild or gamble as is.

For the list members, I have been finding stuff lately I forgot I had

Have considerable qtys of most of these, they are NOS stuff:

stainless steel studs suitable for exhaust, 3/8 NC x NF, and NF nylock nuts 
to match
SS 5/16" fender washers
brass 1/4 NC self locking nuts
70A relays operate on 12V, use 3/8 spade load terminals
40A circuit breakers much or exactly like that used for Power Top, etc. on 
firewall.
fiberglass or sheet metal thread SS screws, #10 x 3/4 I think, lots of them. 
5/16 hex drive.
#10-24 self lock brass nuts, fit ckt brkrs listed above
#10 brass flat washers, also fit CB's above
PLUGS for block drains 9/16 hex drive per original, NOS, why clean old ones?

Also got a crank out of a 307, put her on ebay for like $25, no bites so far
Ditto for the FRESH ground 403 crank out of the "SMW" [4A] block.
got another Nodular AT 455 crank
Another set of #6 heads, sent offer to guy who was hot for them on eBay last 
week, no reply
Taking inquiries from other parties now on the 6's and cranks and such.
=================
First thanks for all the suggestions from everyone.  However, I'm looking 
for an
original casting number water pump. I've been contacted by a few people who 
have the water pump I'm searching for so we'll see what develops.

Chris

chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com> wrote:
And now onto Oldsmobiles. I'm looking for the
aforementioned water pump. casting number 400269.
either a rebuildable core or a working used unit. I
have many parts to trade or will buy outright. Email
directly at grp442@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work —  and 
yourself.   http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 15:39:36 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: 455 HEI Tidbit

I can't confirm it. I never had a points ingnition. But I have junked cars
for 15 years and it is a wicked fog on the years. haven't junked for 10 yrs.
too.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: 455 HEI Tidbit


> Joe said:
> >Judging from your use of the word "wicked", I assume you are in the New
> England area?
>
> You betcha.  Born and raised in Fitchburg, MA...now residing on the lovely
> South Shore...Brockton, City of Champions.
> Stepmom's folks are from Berlin, NH - life free or die! :)
>
> Swanny said:
> >what I think we are talking about only ended around '70-'73.
>
> Any confirmation on this?
> The wickedness of my confusion (and outside temperature) have yet to
cease.
>
>  ~ Dan
>
> -------------------------------------
> Daniel R. Gerow
> '70 W-31 4spd post
> dgerow@stonehill.edu
> http://www.oldsrocket.com
> -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 23:40:15 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Andr=E9_Meijers?= <Andre_Meijers@wxs.nl>
Subject: Carpet - Stock Interiors

Hi list,

Anybody experience with carpets from Stock Interiors? I'm about to order
one....

André

'74 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:49:45 -0500
From: "Dan Roethel" <droethel@rogers.com>
Subject: Aluminium Intake

Finally got a O4B Edelbrock intake for the 455. I would like to remove the
paint the previous owner used. What type of paint remover should you use on
an aluminium intake? Can you damage the aluminium if you use the wrong type
of paint remover?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 18:30:02 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Aluminium Intake

Dan,
	If you wan to do it yourself the cheap way, get a can of the better
oven cleaners.  I have read from the list that people have used that
successfully.
	If it were mine, I'd spend $15-20 on having a machine shop glass
bead the intake.

Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
'98 Honda Civic (For Sale!!) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Dan Roethel
> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 5:50 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Aluminium Intake
> 
> Finally got a O4B Edelbrock intake for the 455. I would like 
> to remove the paint the previous owner used. What type of 
> paint remover should you use on an aluminium intake? Can you 
> damage the aluminium if you use the wrong type of paint remover?
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 19:40:42 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

  first remove front bleeder screws check that the  hole in side and top are free if not replace or
use small drill bit to clean holes,in bleeder screws
  next make sure opening in caliper is flowing fluid. after time a crusty film may seal the caliper
where bleeder passage is i use small scribe  to  open hole . front should push twice as much as
rear.
  ron
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 11:31 AM
  Subject: more brake fun


  > I  bled the brakes on the '77 yesteday evening (I also bought a Mr. Heater
  > for the garage yesterday - "Ummm...Mr. Heater...") and am not sure what to
  > think because...
  >
  > Bleeding was required b/c rear end & brakes was swapped, and adjustable
  > proportioning valve installed in-line between rear brakes and stock
  > proportioning valve.  Bleeding rears proceeds exactly as I would have
  > expected - used hand-operated vacuum pump to get it started, then confirmed
  > good bleed using two person manual bleed method.
  >
  > However, while I'm here and the helper's here I'll bleed the fronts too,
  > right?  Put the vacuum pump's probe into the bleed screw on the passenger's
  > front, open bleed screw and...nothing.  No fluid comes out, no drop in
  > vacuum level on pump.  Several more iterations lead to same result.  Try
  > two-person method, only after several tries does the smallest trickle of
  > rusty brake fluid come out.  More iterations lead to slightly more fluid
  > coming out per purge, but NOTHING like what was coming out on the rear
  > brakes.  All this done without benefit of the engine running (no power
  > assist).  Move to driver's side, same results.
  >
  > Looking at the color of the fluid in the front reservior vs the rear on the
  > MC, the front is obviously filled with very old, very discolored fluid, and
  > no I don't have a pressure bleeder.
  >
  > What to make of this front brake behavior?  The front brake lines have never
  > been opened since I purchased the car (in Dallas, and drove it home to
  > Houston), plus a fair bit of city driving before I started the rear end
  > swap - the point being that the front brakes at least nominally work,
  > otherwise I would have hit something by now.
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 19:47:53 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Brake bleeding

  the reason i asked a customer handed me a bottle of stuff from wagner said it was dot 3 /dot 4
compatable brake fluid.
  regaurdless  we had replaced rear wheel cyl and flushed system with psi bleeder,  put the dot 3
back in the 1969 fire bird,  now he wanted to know if he should convert the  olds and chevy back as
well.
  being taught never to mix i said yes.
  just was  interested in what others thought
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 10:45 AM
  Subject: Re: Brake bleeding


  > >    here's  a question'what do you all think of dot3/4  blends says its
  > compatable with either.
  > >   ron
  >
  >
  > I'm not sure. My initial reaction is the compatibility characteristic allows
  > the accidental mixing of DOT 3 and DOT 4 without any serious adverse affects
  > on braking performance. Mixing the 2 on a regular basis, I can't answer
  > that.
  >
  > Milton Schick
  > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > imp@theriver.com
  >
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 19:10:11 -0600
From: "Jeff Herbert" <oldsjunction@classicoldsmobile.com>
Subject: RE: 455 HEI Tidbit

I too have seen the capacitors in or around the HEI's. My 84 Z28 had one.
AFAIK the story in the 80's was that these were use for noise supression
generated by the pulsing of the coil.

Jeff Herbert (70RagTop)
Dallas Texas   oldsjunction@classicoldsmobile.com
70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
72 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Hardtop
http://OldsJunction.ClassicOldsmobile.com
http://OldsJunction.ClassicOldsmobile.com/rockettalk.html
RingMaster: Oldsmobile Rockets webring -
http://k.webring.com/hub?ring=oldsmobilerocket

- ------------------Original Message---------------------
This strikes me as the same function as the capacitor (condenser) in the
points applications. It is used as a "snubber" that helps limit the
"flyback" voltage from the primary of the coil when the transistor
(electronic switch) opens for sending spark to the spark plugs. This
protects the transistor from 100 or more volts of flyback. This is not
really for RFI as the primary side of the coil doesn't generate anywhere
near the amount generated by the very high voltage secondary. The non-solid
core spark plug wires are for the suppression of RFI.

A bad capacitor (semi-shorted) at this point in the ignition does have the
effect of shorting the ignition to ground (as was said before).

- - --
joe vitek

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 18:23:56 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: RE: 455 HEI Tidbit

For those not on the ROP mess, good explanation on points systems, with a 
fair explanation for the capacitor.

http://www.mrbean.net.au/~rover/ketterin.htm

M

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 19:46:04 -0600
From: "Jeff Herbert" <oldsjunction@classicoldsmobile.com>
Subject: RE: 455 HEI Tidbit

According to the 1977 Oldsmobile CSM the capacitor sits under the rotor
screwed the the dist body directly next to the module. According to the
diagram the capcitor is connected inline with the module harness. No other
description about the cap. is provided. See page scan:
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/images/rs~images/hei-dist.gif

Jeff Herbert (70RagTop)
Dallas Texas   oldsjunction@classicoldsmobile.com
70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
72 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Hardtop
http://OldsJunction.ClassicOldsmobile.com
http://OldsJunction.ClassicOldsmobile.com/rockettalk.html
RingMaster: Oldsmobile Rockets webring -
http://k.webring.com/hub?ring=oldsmobilerocket

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 20:47:14 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminium Intake

What steve said, glass bead. Oven cleaner works but clean up over oven
cleaner, scraping and rubber gloves, is worth the 15-20 for the glass bead
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@direcway.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 7:30 PM
Subject: RE: Aluminium Intake


> Dan,
> If you wan to do it yourself the cheap way, get a can of the better
> oven cleaners.  I have read from the list that people have used that
> successfully.
> If it were mine, I'd spend $15-20 on having a machine shop glass
> bead the intake.
>
> Steve Reed
> '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
> '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
> '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
> '98 Honda Civic (For Sale!!)
> Austin, TX
> http://www.sreed.0catch.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Dan Roethel
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 5:50 PM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Aluminium Intake
> >
> > Finally got a O4B Edelbrock intake for the 455. I would like
> > to remove the paint the previous owner used. What type of
> > paint remover should you use on an aluminium intake? Can you
> > damage the aluminium if you use the wrong type of paint remover?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 19:13:39 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: ahhh, warm

Dan,

> The wickedness of my confusion (and outside temperature) have yet to
cease.


I couldn't resist this line.

Today, it was about 72 for a high in Tucson. Tomorrow is supposed to be 74.
Saturday is predicted at 78.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 21:18:29 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

I can't resist this, how many pair of sun glasses do own?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 9:13 PM
Subject: ahhh, warm


> Dan,
>
> > The wickedness of my confusion (and outside temperature) have yet to
> cease.
>
>
> I couldn't resist this line.
>
> Today, it was about 72 for a high in Tucson. Tomorrow is supposed to be
74.
> Saturday is predicted at 78.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 21:29:20 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 455 HEI Tidbit

Mark Mullins wrote:
> 
> For those not on the ROP mess, good explanation on points systems, with a
> fair explanation for the capacitor.

That's basically what I was saying and it also applies to the HEI except that
there is a transistor switch (ignition module) now instead of a mechanical
switch (points). That capacitor is there to suppress the more than 100 volts
primary spike that would wreck the ignition module in short order without it.
As far as it being there for RFI purposes, that is possibly just a secondary
benefit (however miniscule). The primary function of the "condenser" capacitor
is to protect the points or the ignition module, nothing more.

- --
joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
http://oldsgmail.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
'83 H/O #2981 of 3001
'81 Supreme (soon to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
'72 Kawasaki H1 500cc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 21:42:03 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: My bad (was Re: 455 HEI Tidbit)

Well, I guess I should have checked myself before running my mouth. I just
closed my 1985 CSM and the capacitor on the distributor drawing on page 20-3
of the "G" car section says that it is a "radio noise capacitor". It is
connected to the +12V supply to the distributor, not across the ignition
module (transistor) like I thought.

I am guessing that GM used a transistor that has a Vceo that is much higher
than the primary flyback voltage (Vceo is the reverse bias voltage that the
collector to the emitter can stand). The "radio noise capacitor" suppresses
any noise that gets back onto the power lead that would be a good antenna for
higher frequency RFI.

Of course, the points type capacitor IS across the points switch and is for
suppressing the primary flyback voltage (and arcing) just as the website
posted by Mark states.

I stand corrected. (even though I corrected myself with references)

- --
joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
http://oldsgmail.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
'83 H/O #2981 of 3001
'81 Supreme (soon to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
'72 Kawasaki H1 500cc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 21:46:15 -0500
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

Milton,

You don't know what I would give for 70-something-degree weather right
now...not so much because the cold bothers me (ya get used to it) but
because it ends another season of putting the local ricers to shame with my
34 year old hunk of iron.

I like it when all the doors on my Blazer are frozen shut, really, I
do....ack!  ;)

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 19:12:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Hutchison <rkt88403@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

 Ya gotta get more aggressive when pumping that brake
pedal. When I'm bleeding brakes using my son on the
brake pedal,he doesn't pump the pedal hard or fast
enough to get the pressure up to what it needs to be.
 I will pump them up then have him hold till I get
back to the bleeder.
 
- --- Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu> wrote:
> I  bled the brakes on the '77 yesteday evening (I
> also bought a Mr. Heater
> for the garage yesterday - "Ummm...Mr. Heater...")
> and am not sure what to
> think because...
> 
> Bleeding was required b/c rear end & brakes was
> swapped, and adjustable
> proportioning valve installed in-line between rear
> brakes and stock
> proportioning valve.  Bleeding rears proceeds
> exactly as I would have
> expected - used hand-operated vacuum pump to get it
> started, then confirmed
> good bleed using two person manual bleed method.
> 
> However, while I'm here and the helper's here I'll
> bleed the fronts too,
> right?  Put the vacuum pump's probe into the bleed
> screw on the passenger's
> front, open bleed screw and...nothing.  No fluid
> comes out, no drop in
> vacuum level on pump.  Several more iterations lead
> to same result.  Try
> two-person method, only after several tries does the
> smallest trickle of
> rusty brake fluid come out.  More iterations lead to
> slightly more fluid
> coming out per purge, but NOTHING like what was
> coming out on the rear
> brakes.  All this done without benefit of the engine
> running (no power
> assist).  Move to driver's side, same results.
> 
> Looking at the color of the fluid in the front
> reservior vs the rear on the
> MC, the front is obviously filled with very old,
> very discolored fluid, and
> no I don't have a pressure bleeder.
> 
> What to make of this front brake behavior?  The
> front brake lines have never
> been opened since I purchased the car (in Dallas,
> and drove it home to
> Houston), plus a fair bit of city driving before I
> started the rear end
> swap - the point being that the front brakes at
> least nominally work,
> otherwise I would have hit something by now.
> 


=====
Bill Hutchison,Lansing,MI.
95 GMC Sierra 1500,95 Prowler 27N travel trailer
81 W-88 Cpe 403/TH350/8.5-3.23 LS
My Olds Club http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/olds889877to85

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 03:18:18 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

At 09:18 PM 1/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I can't resist this, how many pair of sun glasses do own?

What are those used for???

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 03:17:55 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

At 07:13 PM 1/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Dan,
>
>> The wickedness of my confusion (and outside temperature) have yet to
>cease.
>
>
>I couldn't resist this line.
>
>Today, it was about 72 for a high in Tucson. Tomorrow is supposed to be 74.
>Saturday is predicted at 78.
>
>Milton Schick

We northerners hate you, Milton  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 20:54:37 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

> I can't resist this, how many pair of sun glasses do own?


4 pair of Ray-Ban ambermatics. Basically, one for each car. The best
sunglasses I've ever found to work with my eyes. I have a pair of
wrap-around UV amber and a pair of UV clear hardened shooting glasses.

A very small price to pay.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 22:45:35 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <oldsmagnet@oldsmagnet.com>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

> You don't know what I would give for 70-something-degree weather right
> now...

It's supposed to hit 30 above tomorrow.  I can't wait!  Been subzero for a 
week now I think.  -50 wind chill much of the time.  I've been told some 
areas are baffled by the fact that we plug our cars into a 120 volt outlet 
at night.....  ---and ~NOT~ to recharge the fuel cells, either!!!  :-)))

- -- 
=/   http://oldsmagnet.com   \===========/         Oldsmobile        \=
|  mailto:442@oldsmagnet.com  |=========|         1897 -- 2004        |
=\ Charley Buehner Sidney MT /===========\      Shot In The Back     /=

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 02:03:01 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: ahhh warm,ice snow flat garage roofs/gutters

Hello
How fitting a topic,Sunglasses?
I was gonna get on here and warn peoples with flat car garage roofs.
Its been -8 Celcius here...20 F for min. 2 weeks.
I shut tight the garage with race car and 58, put in a little elec. heater to keep out moisture and keep temp above 0.
I did install 58 motor last weekend will prime by next weekend.
There was 3" of snow on the flat roof,if it snowed any more i would have gone up and shoveled it off.
Also 1/4 north face of house roof drains onto garage roof.
This morning as i went to work it was hovering around 32f/0 Celcius,warm pacific air came in +5C and it went up way above freezing and started to rain all day.
I came home after 8 hrs work,had dinner,went into garage to find a slow leak on trunk of race car :O running down rear bumper:(
Poor previous owner reno job on house ext. to garage.
Thank god i am movin April/May to a new place.
The heater in garage did too good of a job, musta melted on roof surface, ran to drain pipes and froze solid 8 feet plus curves of drain pipe during long cold snap. 
Maybe i should get a ladder?
I saw 2 inches of ice on top of roof surface, 4 inches snow and a pool of water on top of that in the pouring rain.
Proceeded to hammer drain pipes free of ice,climbed roof and HAMMERED threw roof ice to drain hole.....why thats the thickest point of ice on roof?
Drove all over town,maybe 6 stores and got laughed at when i asked if they had any sidewalk snow melt/salt still(its all gone a long time ago).
Ya shoulda seen the checkout gurls face at grocery store when i bought 20 big boxes of pickling salt :O
Salt/snowshovel,pickling salt,and many hot water tanks later with a hose and i was soaking wet,roof was draining,,, oh joy!
Rolled race car forward,bucket under drip,,cleaned up,after 3 hrs.
So much for fiddling in garage tonight.
Maybe i should move back to California, Az. would be warm?
Anyone wanna hire a Marble /Granite Sawyer down south?
Happy New Year!
Randy H.
Van.B.C.Can.
58 88
72 Cutlass Convert
72 Cutlass


__________________________________________________________________
Thank you for using Netscape.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 07:36:21 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: My bad (was Re: 455 HEI Tidbit)

> Well, I guess I should have checked myself before running my mouth. I just
> closed my 1985 CSM and the capacitor on the distributor drawing on page
20-3
> of the "G" car section says that it is a "radio noise capacitor". It is
> connected to the +12V supply to the distributor, not across the ignition
> module (transistor) like I thought.

Makes sense.

> I am guessing that GM used a transistor that has a Vceo that is much
higher
> than the primary flyback voltage (Vceo is the reverse bias voltage that
the
> collector to the emitter can stand).

High voltage transistor and reverse diode in the module.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:03:30 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

Well, Ron is right, but if it was my car.... I would take the calipers out,
open them, change the gaskets and the ring, clean the inside, and instal the
"new" calipers again. The crude enclosed within will finish destroying the
caliper and piston surfaces beyond any repair. Since my Simca - Talbot
Horizon ( Dodge Omni in you sides ) I've learn this - change the brake fluid
each 2 yrs. If you buy a used car - do it at once... It IS MUCH CHEAPER than
the calipers work/exchange.
Good Luck
Matt
Subject: Re: more brake fun


>
>   first remove front bleeder screws check that the  hole in side and top
are free if not replace or
> use small drill bit to clean holes,in bleeder screws
>   next make sure opening in caliper is flowing fluid. after time a crusty
film may seal the caliper
> where bleeder passage is i use small scribe  to  open hole . front should
push twice as much as
> rear.
>   ron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 13:11:57 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: Re: more brake fun

the caliper rebuilt is probably cheaper than the kit
15.00 for my 1972 when i swapped to front disc
25.00 for my 1977 but the rear disc calipers were outta sight i went with new because of the problems with them being rebuilt,
ron
> Well, Ron is right, but if it was my car.... I would take the calipers out,
> open them, change the gaskets and the ring, clean the inside, and instal the
> "new" calipers again. The crude enclosed within will finish destroying the
> caliper and piston surfaces beyond any repair. Since my Simca - Talbot
> Horizon ( Dodge Omni in you sides ) I've learn this - change the brake fluid
> each 2 yrs. If you buy a used car - do it at once... It IS MUCH CHEAPER than
> the calipers work/exchange.
> Good Luck
> Matt
> Subject: Re: more brake fun
> 
> 
> >
> >   first remove front bleeder screws check that the  hole in side and top
> are free if not replace or
> > use small drill bit to clean holes,in bleeder screws
> >   next make sure opening in caliper is flowing fluid. after time a crusty
> film may seal the caliper
> > where bleeder passage is i use small scribe  to  open hole . front should
> push twice as much as
> > rear.
> >   ron
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:30:16 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

Who has this prices ( w/o the core ...)? I'd like to file this info... just
in case I need them..
rgds
Matt

> the caliper rebuilt is probably cheaper than the kit
> 15.00 for my 1972 when i swapped to front disc
> 25.00 for my 1977 but the rear disc calipers were outta sight i went with
new because of the problems with them being rebuilt,
> ron
> > Well, Ron is right, but if it was my car.... I would take the calipers
out,
> >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 08:58:54 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

hey bill, get a bigger kid!!!  :-)
john
67 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:43:21 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

time will cure it...just feed him three times a day...
Matt

Subject: Re: more brake fun


> hey bill, get a bigger kid!!!  :-)
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:52:36 -0500
From: "aaron" <aaron@trucksforsale.com>
Subject: Need a Door

Hi,  I'm new to the list.  Actually I was on it a couple years ago until I
went off to college but now I'm back.  Anyway,  I'm in desperate need of a
pass. door for a 70 Cutlass Supreme.  If anyone has one or knows where I can
find one I'd appreciate it.

Aaron
http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:54:23 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

what are you trying to do, spoil the kid! three times a day....  


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: more brake fun


> time will cure it...just feed him three times a day...
> Matt
> 
> Subject: Re: more brake fun
> 
> 
> > hey bill, get a bigger kid!!!  :-)
> > john
> > 67 cutlass supreme
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:08:45 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Wanted: 62 Starfire/88 Rear Bumper

So you kept the black convertible?  I thought that was going back to New England...

Paul
> I'm looking for a clean 1962 88 or Starfire rear bumper, no rust through. If 
> anyone has one or a lead to one, let me know.
> 
> Thanks!!
> Karl Sup
> Mesa, AZ
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.  
> http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:03:12 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Anyone near Suffolk, VA?

Anyone near Suffolk, VA who could take a look at a car for me?  Hit  me
privately fsnissen@worldnet.att.net.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:20:20 -0500
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: DOT 5 Fluid vs. 3 & 4

My understanding is that the use of DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid is to be
avoided in cars because of the following:

* It is not compatible with the DOT spec 3 & 4 fluids.  This may not be a
problem on a new brake install where all the parts are new, or on an older
non-ABS install where you can flush everything through with DOT 5.
However, on newer cars you need to follow specific procedures depending on
your ABS module to flush out the fluid ... it is very difficult to flush
out all the old 4 or 5 fluid from the module, and you'll end up with
incompatible fluids.  Also, on older systems that are converted, the
silicone fluid tends to stick to any sludge that is in the lines from old
contaminated fluid.

* DOT 5 is very hard to pour without getting bubbles in it -- and it's the
bubbles introduced when pouring, suspended in the fluid that cause spongy
feel many people report after switching to DOT 5.  Also, silicone fluid is
more likely to dissolve the gasses in air, and that can cause a spongy
pedal at high altitudes.

* Silicone fluid does not absorb moisture, and is lighter than water.
Thus, if your brake system becomes contaminated with a couple percent
water, the water will migrate to the lowest point of your system .... your
calipers or drum pistons .... and corrode them.  Also, this moisture that
is right by your pistons/calipers will boil at a point that is well below
the wet boiling point of DOT 3 or 4 fluid.  This vaporized moisture will
compress, causing spongy pedal feel and possibly temporary the total loss
of braking ability.  DOT 3 and 4 fluid absorbs moisture, and while the
fluid/moisture mix still corrodes system components, the fluid with
absorbed moisture is rated at a wet boiling point (311 degrees F for DOT 3
and 356 degrees F for DOT 4).

*If your system has any silicone-based rubber products (really this is
limited to some types of piston boots), the DOT 5 silicone fluid may attack
and degrade them.

DOT 3 and 4 fluids are mixable, with the only adverse effect being a
boiling point lower than the DOT 4 spec.  The DOT 3 and 4 dry boiling
points are 401 and 446 degrees F, respectively.  Their wet boiling points
are 311 and 356 degrees F, respectively.  DOT 5 is rated at 500 F dry, and
there is no wet point because it does not mix with moisture -- any moisture
in a system with DOT 5 will remain separate and boil on its own.

There are DOT 3 and 4 fluids that have dry boiling points above the DOT 5
spec of 500 degrees F.  Here is a list of them that I retained from a post
a few years back to the Impala SS digest from Dave Zeckhausen, a guy who
has pretty thorough brake knowledge:

                        Wet   Dry (boil pt, deg. F)
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4     446   311*
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3   550   290
ATE Super Blue Racing   536   392
ATE TYP 200             536   392
Motul Racing 600        585   421
Castrol SRF             590   518
Performance Friction    550   284

* LMA only meets DOT 4 dry spec and DOT 3 wet spec.

I use the ATE fluids when I change brake fluid (I try to do this every 2
years, give or take a month or 2).  It has good wet and dry boiling points
for its price ... it can be found for about $12/liter.  Most of the others
on that list cost more (over $70/l for the Castrol SRF).  The ATE fluids
are the same, but the TYP200 is clear and the Super Blue is blue (duh ...
lol!).  I alternate them when I change fluids ... this makes it easy: when
the color changes, you know you're getting fresh fluid through your lines!

So, in summary, my understanding is that you can use DOT 5 fluid if you
have no DOT 3 and/or 4 in your system.  If you really want DOT 5 in your
system, preferably use it in a new system because it is very hard to flush
out all the old fluid from your system's components.  Bleed your brakes
regularly with DOT 5 to make sure you're not holding moisture at the
calipers / pistons.  The military was using, and may still be using DOT 5
fluid because it retains a lower viscosity advantage at extremely low
temperatures over DOT 3 and 4.  It can be done ... but I question its
advantages, since I don't drive in -40F weather, there are DOT 4 fluids
that have higher than DOT 5 spec dry boiling points, and the DOT 4 fluids
are safer if moisture is introduced in to the system.

Again, this is all my understanding of the subject based on talking to
various people and 'net research.  I'm open to new thoughts and ideas from
anyone.

Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv
'96 Impala SS
'95 Ram 1500 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 12:36:05 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: need accurate W31 damper measurements

Well, pooh
looks like I got a few pics of the W31 damper I used to have, with a US 
Quarter for scale, but I can find no accurate [to the .01" or so] numbers on 
it.

Is there a chance that anyone here has one extracted or easy to get at, can 
measure its main features for me? I can pay for the info.

Need at least:

OD of the Large-OD front part, and the small-OD aft section.
width, outer ring overall
width, outer ring Large-OD part
width, outer ring Small-OD part, not including any chamfer or rise to 
Large-OD section.
details of step or chamfer bewteen large OD and small OD would be nice.
Dia of tool used to cut notches in OD
Depth of cut for notches in OD - or, distance beteen their nearest edges 
would do me.
Offset between front face of outer ring and front face of inner hub. Looks 
about 1/8" maybe,
   with outer ring being a bit forward of the inner hub.
Details of chamfer or groove cut into fwd inner [ID] corner of the outer 
ring.

If you can let me borrow your damper for a week or so, all the better. I can 
send you collateral of your choice if that makes you nervous.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory 
offer.  http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 12:40:41 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!

Interesting, during the search for W31 damper pix, I found many pix of other 
balancers. It appears that some of the 330's [1964 issue?]  had the 
balancer's timing mark directly in line with the key slot cut into the 
balancer's bore. Most Olds engines that we work with, of course, have an 
offset of about 11 degrees between the key slot and the timing mark. Maybe 
the Balancer seen [330-2-bbl] was one of them 1964 units with the timing tab 
on the RH side of the engine. But, man, that would move the timing slot/ 
mark more like 90 degrees, not 11 degrees, right? Maybe the 1964 crank had 
the key located differently w.r.t. #1 tdc/ journal?  That's hard to believe.

clearly, more research is needed.
OK, who's got a 1964 330 torn down right now for easy access?

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4735
*********************************
