
oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, February 11 2004    Volume 01 : Number 4772



Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill
Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill
Re: Customer Service
RE: Converters
RE: Customer Service
Re: Converters
Re: Converters
Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...
Re: 404584 water pump ....
Re: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...
speaking of torque convertors
RE: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...
RE: speaking of torque convertors
One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill
RE: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
RE: One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: Customer Service
RE: One (more) question about amp wiring...
When in doubt... 
Re: Customer Service
Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill
OT: mineral deposits in teapot?
Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Re: speaking of torque convertors
Re: mineral deposits in teapot?
Re: OT: mineral deposits in teapot?
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Re: Customer Service

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:07:30 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill

>Are the motors
>interchangable in the rear? If so, what is the procedure
>for pulling the trim off of the inside of the door?

Yes, the 98's window motors shoud work fine.  Be safe to get one from the
same door, but they might be the same on both rears or maybe all four, I
don't know.

Pulling the trim off SHOULD BE easy - if it's hard, you're doing something
wrong.  There are large phillips screws on the door handle strap
(underneath the wood-panel-looking plastic caps - pull these off by using a
flathead screwdriver on the inboard edge(towards center of strap) and
pushing them out, doing it some other way will break them).  More screws
holding the armrest in, you'll need to remove the chromed handle "dish" (my
brain's not working right today, those are probably not the best terms to
describe it) to have access to some of them, plus remove the top of the
armrest to get access to more.  IIRC, all of the stuff hanging off of the
door (armrest, basically) needs to be removed from the panel in order to
remove the panel from the door.  Don't forget to remove the lock button.
Once the armrest is off, you'll do well to get the $10 trim removal tool
that pulls the white ribbed screw-looking retainers from the door without
breaking them - while at store purchasing same, look at clear plastic box
of replacement white retainers to know what you're dealing with, and you
should probably buy said box as well, as you will inevitably screw some of
them up the first time you attempt this procedure.  The very top of the
panel is the only part that's a press-fit, but distorting the panel should
NOT be required to remove it.

This is a very easy procedure that I can do in my sleep but can't seem to
describe very well.  Once you've taken one apart and looked at it from the
other side, it makes a lot more sense.

>
>Number Two:
>Second is to drill through
>the firewall and run it that way through the wiring channel
>on the floor into the trunk. 

That's what I'd do - I wouldn't have power running outside the vechicle for
any reason.  You'd do better to run the power on the side of the car that
the speaker wires to the rear are NOT on.  Re: where to drill - you may
want to take your car to a speaker shop and ask them what they'd do.  If it
was me, I'd make the hole as low as possible, because you don't want a big
bend going downwards once you pass through the firewall (to clear the dash
components).


>
>
>Sorry for the long-winded note,
>Branson
> 

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 11:35:51 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill

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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 2/10/2004 10:34:30 AM Central Standard Time, 
acg_o@hotmail.com writes:


> Also don't forget proper fuses on this wiring, as close to the origin at 
> the 
> front of the car as possible.

Should be less that 18 in

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/10/2004 10:34:30 AM Central Standard Time, acg_o@hotmail.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Also don't forget proper fu=
ses on this wiring, as close to the origin at the=20
<BR>front of the car as possible.</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ff=
ffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SAN=
SSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>Should be less that 18 in</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:44:54 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Customer Service

Paul,

>From clerks who can't make change to store personnel who can't make the
simplest decision, yes, you're expecting too much, but no, you deserve to be
answered promptly and professionally.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
To: "Oldsmobile-Digest" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 7:25 AM
Subject: Customer Service


> I am in the market for a new torque converter to match my rebuilt
> engine. Last week I sent my cars' information out to 5 converter
> manufacturers. As of this morning, the only reply I have received is
> from Coan.
>
> Is it me, or am I expecting too much?
>
> Paul Tumolo - expecting superior customer service
> 1970 442 Hardtop
> OCA # 31967
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:31:48 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Converters

> Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 17:22:44 -0500
> From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
> Subject: Converters
> 
> Anyone using a aftermarket converter?
> 
> What brand and application?
> 
> Were you happy with the results?
> 
> Paul Tumolo
> 1970 442 Hardtop
> OCA # 31967

I have a Hughes Performance 2500 rpm stall converter in my TH350, part 
number GM25. It flashes right to 2400-2500 rpm with my warmed over 355 
cid engine. Previously (as in before the last tranny rebuild), I had a 
Darryl Young 2400 rpm converter, and it worked very well. I had no issues 
with normal street driving with either converter, even when I had the 
backup 2.56 posi rear on the car.

Hughes Performance 
http://www.hughesperformance.com/
1-800-274-7225

Darrell Young Racing Transmissions
(818) 768-4047

I have not heard very good things about the B&M and TCI converters that
 you typically see in the performance catalogs like Summit and Jegs. Seems
 to be a lot of quality control issues with them.

Hope this helps.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:43:28 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Customer Service

> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:25:27 -0500
> From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
> Subject: Customer Service
> 
> I am in the market for a new torque converter to match my rebuilt
> engine. Last week I sent my cars' information out to 5 converter
> manufacturers. As of this morning, the only reply I have received is
> from Coan.
> 
> Is it me, or am I expecting too much?
> 
> Paul Tumolo - expecting superior customer service
> 1970 442 Hardtop
> OCA # 31967 

I had an excellent experience talking to the tech at Hughes Performance. 
I called and got straight through to a real person who made a recommendation 
on a converter for my application and answered all of the technical questions 
I had.
Hughes Performance
1-800-274-7223

I have heard nothing but good things about Coan converters. They are priced 
higher than the run-of-the-mill converters, but you definitely get what you 
pay for, which in this case is a top notch converter.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:58:36 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Converters

I've heard weird things about B&M Holeshot torque converters, which first
came out after I left the speed shop in 1975. In looking at the B&M website,
the full house racing torque converters match the one in Thunder, but the
Holeshots don't have the same features as my B&M converter or the B&M
competition converters.

Being in Tucson, AZ, and given the fact that Hughes Racing Transmissions has
its home in Phoenix and a satellite manufacturing location in Tucson, I've
also heard a lot of good things about Hughes stuff. Don's Hot Rod Shop in
Tucson sells Hughes and apparently has had no complaints with Hughes quality
and performance.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 10:31 AM
Subject: RE: Converters


> > Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 17:22:44 -0500
> > From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
> > Subject: Converters
> >
> > Anyone using a aftermarket converter?
> >
> > What brand and application?
> >
> > Were you happy with the results?
> >
> > Paul Tumolo
> > 1970 442 Hardtop
> > OCA # 31967
>
> I have a Hughes Performance 2500 rpm stall converter in my TH350, part
> number GM25. It flashes right to 2400-2500 rpm with my warmed over 355
> cid engine. Previously (as in before the last tranny rebuild), I had a
> Darryl Young 2400 rpm converter, and it worked very well. I had no issues
> with normal street driving with either converter, even when I had the
> backup 2.56 posi rear on the car.
>
> Hughes Performance
> http://www.hughesperformance.com/
> 1-800-274-7225
>
> Darrell Young Racing Transmissions
> (818) 768-4047
>
> I have not heard very good things about the B&M and TCI converters that
>  you typically see in the performance catalogs like Summit and Jegs. Seems
>  to be a lot of quality control issues with them.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:08:24 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Converters

B&M 2800-3200 universal bolt pattern TC. Nice stuff, stalls 3300, sort of
high, will move th car on at idle as well, but less than the stock TC, never
failed in 5yrs, 15000miles
rgds
MAtt
> Anyone using a aftermarket converter?
>
> What brand and application?
>
> Were you happy with the results?
>
> Paul Tumolo
> 1970 442 Hardtop
> OCA # 31967
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 13:22:20 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...

http://www.nvsaac.com/Details/engine_64_66.htm

we need a site like this for Oldsmobiles
who wants to start the process? Who has the expertise?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Find great local high-speed Internet access value at the MSN High-Speed 
Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 11:59:25 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 404584 water pump ....

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:49:51 -0500
From: "The General" patton442@verizon.net
Subject: Re: 404584 water pump ....

So it might be a W30 pump ????

The General 

- -------------------------- 

ugh!!!! stinkin yahoo crapped out or I lost my connection.  sorry if this is a double (or triple) post.

umm, nope. you've got it reversed. It's _without_ A/C, HD cooling, W-30. The W-30 water pump would be (I believe) 400269. 

Chris Smetana 

grp442@yahoo.com



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<DIV>
<P>Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:49:51 -0500<BR>From: "The General" <U><FONT color=#0000ff><A href="mailto:patton442@verizon.net">patton442@verizon.net</A></U></FONT><BR>Subject: Re: 404584 water pump ....<BR><BR>So it might be a W30 pump ????<BR><BR>The General </P>
<P>-------------------------- </P>
<P>ugh!!!! stinkin yahoo crapped out or I lost my connection.&nbsp; sorry if this is a double (or triple) post.</P>
<P>umm, nope. you've got it reversed. It's _without_ A/C, HD cooling, W-30. The W-30 water pump would be (I believe) 400269. </P>
<P>Chris Smetana </P><U><FONT color=#0000ff>
<P><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></P></U></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=21260/*http://photos.yahoo.com">New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing</a>
- --0-50019528-1076443165=:56952--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:01:49 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...

It's easy, for 70-72 at least: Paint everything semi-gloss black except the
engine, and the stuff that never had paint :)

Chris
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 1:22 PM
Subject: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...


> http://www.nvsaac.com/Details/engine_64_66.htm
>
> we need a site like this for Oldsmobiles
> who wants to start the process? Who has the expertise?
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 12:15:05 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: speaking of torque convertors

- --0-696805195-1076444105=:33810
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I am in the market for a new torque converter to match my rebuilt
engine. Last week I sent my cars' information out to 5 converter
manufacturers. As of this morning, the only reply I have received is
from Coan.
- ---------------------------
nothing wrong with Coan.  I'm leaning towards them myself, just have to determine stall speed.  And here is where my question comes in.
 
1969 W-31 with a freshly rebuilt motor to Pure Stock Drag Racing specs.  I will be running the General Kinetics W-31 cam, .474 lift and 308 degrees duration I believe.  Through the factory manifolds and on Goodyear Polyglas repro tires, F70x14 size (thinking about G70x14 as it's allowed but most likely not).  I'm not sure on gear ratio yet, but understand 3.91 will not be deep enough.  If I can find 4.33 I'll run those in my original type O otherwise (and the way I'm leaning towards) I'll be swapping to a Type C 12 bolt with 4.56 or maybe 4.10.  From what I have gathered, in order not to put the rear tires up in smoke I should be running a low stall convertor.  There is a 70 F-85 W-31 auto on the column running in Pure Stock that uses an 800rpm convertor (generic/off name brand) with 4.33 gears and G70x14 repro tires and since he's run a 12.88 I figure he's gotta be doing something right.
 
Any recommendations on stall speed and brand?  Should I run the same 800rpm but a Coan?  what about 1000rpm or 1200rpm?  I do plan on talking with several convertor manufacturers and some others but figured I'd start with everyone here first.  Thanks in advance.
 
Chris Smetana
grp442@yahoo.com


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New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
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<DIV>I am in the market for a new torque converter to match my rebuilt<BR>engine. Last week I sent my cars' information out to 5 converter<BR>manufacturers. As of this morning, the only reply I have received is<BR>from Coan.<BR>---------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>nothing wrong with Coan.&nbsp; I'm leaning towards them myself, just have to determine stall speed.&nbsp; And here is where my question comes in.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31 with a freshly rebuilt motor to Pure Stock Drag Racing specs.&nbsp; I will be running the General Kinetics W-31 cam, .474 lift and 308 degrees duration I believe.&nbsp; Through the factory manifolds and on Goodyear Polyglas repro tires, F70x14 size (thinking about G70x14 as it's allowed but most likely not).&nbsp; I'm not sure on gear ratio yet, but understand 3.91 will not be deep enough.&nbsp; If I can find 4.33 I'll run those in my original type O otherwise (and the way I'm leaning towards)&nbsp;I'll be swapping to a&nbsp;Type C 12 bolt with 4.56 or maybe 4.10.&nbsp; From what I have gathered, in order not to put the rear tires up in smoke I should be running a low stall convertor.&nbsp; There is a 70 F-85 W-31 auto on the column running in Pure Stock that uses an 800rpm convertor (generic/off name brand)&nbsp;with 4.33 gears&nbsp;and G70x14 repro&nbsp;tires and since he's run a 12.88 I figure he's gotta be doing something right.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Any recommendations on stall speed and brand?&nbsp; Should I run the same 800rpm but a Coan?&nbsp; what about 1000rpm or 1200rpm?&nbsp; I do plan on talking with several convertor manufacturers and some others but figured I'd start with everyone here first.&nbsp; Thanks in advance.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris Smetana</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:43:56 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...

You, with help from period experts on this list.
Ian

- -----Original Message-----

http://www.nvsaac.com/Details/engine_64_66.htm

we need a site like this for Oldsmobiles
who wants to start the process? Who has the expertise?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:44:04 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: speaking of torque convertors

Give Coan a call and talk to one of their very knowledgeable sales reps.  
You will not be dissapointed.   One advantage Coan has for those of us in 
the midwest, they are within easy driving distance if you should need or 
want to visit in person.

http://www.coanengineering.com/
765.456.3957

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the great features of the new MSN 9 Dial-up, with the MSN Dial-up 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:02:47 -0600
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: One (more) question about amp wiring...

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
Sorry, but I forgot to append this to the end of my
message...

Do I need to hook the ground of the amp to the body of the
car (chassis ground?) If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
sufficient?



Thanks,
Branson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:10:50 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

Yes, hook the amp to chassis ground.

You do not need to do anything with the battery's ground connection.

At 03:02 PM 02/10/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>Sorry, but I forgot to append this to the end of my
>message...
>
>Do I need to hook the ground of the amp to the body of the
>car (chassis ground?) If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
>from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
>sufficient?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>Branson
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:40:47 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill

Branson Sparks wrote:

> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> Greetings...
> 
> Two questions follow...
> 
> Number One:
> In my 1985 Delta 88 Royale, the back driver's side window
> motor won't work. It's a bad motor--that much has been
> established. I have access to another Olds--an 84
> Ninety-Eight. It, too has power windows. Are the motors
> interchangable in the rear? If so, what is the procedure
> for pulling the trim off of the inside of the door? Are
> there pics anywhere on the net? I've heard that the trim is
> held on by some large spring clips. This procedure will
> have to be carried out within the week. Very long story
> there.
> 
> Number Two:
> I'm installing an amp in the trunk of the 88 (same one as
> above). I need to get 4ga power cable from the battery to
> the back. I've heard two schools of thought. First is to
> run the wire on the undercarriage of the car then drill up
> through the floor of the trunk. Second is to drill through
> the firewall and run it that way through the wiring channel
> on the floor into the trunk. Which is the best idea, and
> where should I drill through the firewall if that is the
> best option? I'd like to drill where accessibility is at a
> maximum and thickness is at a minimum. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long-winded note,
> Branson
> 
> 
Branson
    I'm sorry I can't answer your questions I just wanted to warn you to 
be really careful when you pull the window motor out. People have been 
hurt by window regulators slaming shut once the motor is out and no 
longer resisting the spring
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:00:00 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Detailing specs to the nth degree, but not for Olds...

>You, with help from period experts on this list.

I'll help with the semi-colons!

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN. 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 18:03:25 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

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In a message dated 2/10/2004 3:31:49 PM Central Standard Time, 
bsparks@gosparkle.net writes:


> Do I need to hook the ground of the amp to the body of the
> car (chassis ground?) If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
> from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
> sufficient?
> 
> I have an 88 CSCB. I grounded it to a piece in the trunk. The gaugue of the 
> ground wire is usually equal to the ground of the power wire. Usually the 
> battery is grounded to the engine block unless you have 2 battery or sometyhing 
> I have never seen. Usually, just don't worry about using a different wire for 
> grounding the battery. Stock is OK



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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/10/2004 3:31:49 PM Central Standard Time, bsparks@gosparkle.net writ=
es:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Do I need to hook the groun=
d of the amp to the body of the
<BR>car (chassis ground?) If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
<BR>from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
<BR>sufficient?
<BR>
<BR>I have an 88 CSCB. I grounded it to a piece in the trunk. The gaugue of=20=
the ground wire is usually equal to the ground of the power wire. Usually th=
e battery is grounded to the engine block unless you have 2 battery or somet=
yhing I have never seen. Usually, just don't worry about using a different w=
ire for grounding the battery. Stock is OK</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BA=
CK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMI=
LY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:04:50 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: One (more) question about amp wiring...

>Do I need to hook the ground of the amp to the body of the
>car (chassis ground?)

Yes, although I'd think that if you're screwing it down to your trunk 
somehow, that'll be grounding it right there. The manufacturer's 
instructions should cover that question.

>If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
>from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
>sufficient?

If that ground cable (which is large enough to support hundreds of amps of 
starter cranking current) isn't sufficient for your amplifier, I don't want 
to be anywhere near you when you turn the volume up...  :-)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get some great ideas here for your sweetheart on Valentine's Day - and 
beyond. http://special.msn.com/network/celebrateromance.armx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 18:05:48 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: Customer Service

- --part1_1f0.18a7cb52.2d5abdcc_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 2/10/2004 10:56:25 AM Central Standard Time, 
imp@theriver.com writes:


> From clerks who can't make change 

There are reasons for that
a) keeping large amounts of change on hands for helping customers make change 
ties up capital which could be used for other things
b)someone has to count and be responsible for the said change
c)i work at a place which has been robbed while giving change.


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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/10/2004 10:56:25 AM Central Standard Time, imp@theriver.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">From clerks who can't make=20=
change </FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-=
COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LAN=
G=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>There are reasons for that
<BR>a) keeping large amounts of change on hands for helping customers make c=
hange ties up capital which could be used for other things
<BR>b)someone has to count and be responsible for the said change
<BR>c)i work at a place which has been robbed while giving change.
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:08:09 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: One (more) question about amp wiring...

>Do I need to hook the ground of the amp to the body of the
>car (chassis ground?) If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
>from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
>sufficient?

I'm sorry, I misunderstood you; I was thinking only of the ground cable to 
the block, not the (10-gauge?) connection right to the fender. In any case, 
I think the amp should find plenty of return ground path as long as all your 
factory grounds are intact. It won't hurt to add another if you're in doubt.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get some great ideas here for your sweetheart on Valentine's Day - and 
beyond. http://special.msn.com/network/celebrateromance.armx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 18:53:24 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: When in doubt... 

>A word of advice...like with cams, when
>in doubt; choose the milder of the two.
>
>Kevin
>

That's not very American.
===================
Relax, dude, it's just a typo.
I am sure he meant "wilder", with a "w" !!!
:-)

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Choose now from 4 levels of MSN Hotmail Extra Storage - no more account 
overload! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:36:11 -0500
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Customer Service

> > From clerks who can't make change
>
> There are reasons for that
> a) keeping large amounts of change

(SNIP)

You missed the point....it's not about having enough coinage in the cash
drawer. It's about not having the ability to perform a simple mathmatical
task.....like addition, subtraction...plain ole counting. Chalk one up for
calculators and schools that allow kids to use them in math class instead of
exercising their brains..

2+2....dang, batteries are dead, don't know the answer.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:31:41 -0600
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>     I'm sorry I can't answer your questions I just wanted
> to warn you to 
> be really careful when you pull the window motor out.
> People have been hurt by window regulators slaming shut
> once the motor is out and no longer resisting the spring
> LOL


Thanks... I've never done this before, so every warning
helps as much as what to do.


- --Branson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:35:18 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: OT: mineral deposits in teapot?

All,

Ok, I know this is way way off topic, and there's no hope of possibly
making it Olds-related.

But hey, we've got enough people here who know their chemistry.

Anyway, I've got a pot that I boil water in to make tea, coffee, whatever.
However, the water's hard in this area, and I've noticed that the flavor is
being affected by it.

What makes this difficult is that the pot itself is white, so it's hard to
see for sure, but I think it's got a serious case of the minerals from the
water having deposited about the bottom and sides of the pot.

How do I safely get rid of this stuff, completely?  Remember, I'm going to
be drinking from this thing afterward, too!


Thanks in advance!

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:37:32 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

Well, I did promise/warn/threaten that I'd do this again.....

But in my neverending quest for another car, I've come across a certain
C-brand G-body.

It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.

How do these hold up as the miles pile on, assuming proper maintenance?

I know people who've said that the 229 V6 was very reliable.  Presumably
the 200 V6 is as well, considering it's the same motor with a smaller bore.
 Since the 4.3 is the same but with a bigger bore, does the same logic apply?

Thanks again......

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:13:59 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: speaking of torque convertors

Chris,

I think in your situation I would use a stock 12" converter with beefed up
internals, i.e., all thrust and rotational bearings switched to Torrington
needle bearings, furnace brazed blades, full balance, etc. GM offered as
stock 13", 12", and 11" high performance converters.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "chris smetana" <grp442@yahoo.com>
To: "oldslist" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 1:15 PM
Subject: speaking of torque convertors


> I am in the market for a new torque converter to match my rebuilt
> engine. Last week I sent my cars' information out to 5 converter
> manufacturers. As of this morning, the only reply I have received is
> from Coan.
> ---------------------------
> nothing wrong with Coan.  I'm leaning towards them myself, just have to
determine stall speed.  And here is where my question comes in.
>
> 1969 W-31 with a freshly rebuilt motor to Pure Stock Drag Racing specs.  I
will be running the General Kinetics W-31 cam, .474 lift and 308 degrees
duration I believe.  Through the factory manifolds and on Goodyear Polyglas
repro tires, F70x14 size (thinking about G70x14 as it's allowed but most
likely not).  I'm not sure on gear ratio yet, but understand 3.91 will not
be deep enough.  If I can find 4.33 I'll run those in my original type O
otherwise (and the way I'm leaning towards) I'll be swapping to a Type C 12
bolt with 4.56 or maybe 4.10.  From what I have gathered, in order not to
put the rear tires up in smoke I should be running a low stall convertor.
There is a 70 F-85 W-31 auto on the column running in Pure Stock that uses
an 800rpm convertor (generic/off name brand) with 4.33 gears and G70x14
repro tires and since he's run a 12.88 I figure he's gotta be doing
something right.
>
> Any recommendations on stall speed and brand?  Should I run the same
800rpm but a Coan?  what about 1000rpm or 1200rpm?  I do plan on talking
with several convertor manufacturers and some others but figured I'd start
with everyone here first.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Chris Smetana
> grp442@yahoo.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:44:40 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: mineral deposits in teapot?

>
> How do I safely get rid of this stuff, completely?  Remember, I'm going to
> be drinking from this thing afterward, too!
>

Vinegar is a cheap and food safe cleaner (phosphoric acid based) that you could fill the kettle with and let soak,
perhaps overnight.

There are stronger products like CLR but I'm not sure about health issues on this.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 05:07:52 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: OT: mineral deposits in teapot?

At 11:35 PM 2/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Anyway, I've got a pot that I boil water in to make tea, coffee, whatever.
>However, the water's hard in this area, and I've noticed that the flavor is
>being affected by it.
>
>What makes this difficult is that the pot itself is white, so it's hard to
>see for sure, but I think it's got a serious case of the minerals from the
>water having deposited about the bottom and sides of the pot.
>
>How do I safely get rid of this stuff, completely?  Remember, I'm going to
>be drinking from this thing afterward, too!

Some comet and chipped ice. Shake it well for a few minutes. Rinse, pour a
bit of dish detergent inside, water, shake fer a bit. Rinse, rinse, rinse
till no more soap bubbles. Use warm water with the soap but rinse with cold
water which'll get the soap out easier and sooner.

Vinegar with the chipped ice may also work as it's reputed to reduce the
mineral deposits left in a Mr. Coffee's system but haven't tried it.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 05:12:02 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

At 11:37 PM 2/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, I did promise/warn/threaten that I'd do this again.....
>
>But in my neverending quest for another car, I've come across a certain
>C-brand G-body.
>
>It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.
>
>How do these hold up as the miles pile on, assuming proper maintenance?

I have two 3.8Ls (229); should be about the same: an '84 Elky and an '83
M*libu. Both have over 225K miles on them. I know one was owned by an old
man who likely didn't drive hard at all but dunno bout the Elky. They both
run fine and the Elky even has compression over 150 PSI in all cylinders.
They also have a fair amount of pep for their age, nearly as much as the
230K-mile-old 307 in my fullsized wagon. But both are disadvantaged with
low-ratio rear ends like 2.93 and 2.73 whereas the big wagon has 3.23 plus
a 200-4R.

That being said, these are the only two Ch*bby V-anythings I've ever owned
that lasted moren 150K miles. And neither burns oil.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:10:21 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Customer Service

> > From clerks who can't make change


I'm referring to clerks who can't make change...they can't count out change.
It has nothing to do with whether or not they have the change, they don't
have a clue how to count the change, unless the cash register does it for
them. They can't add or subtract, period.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4772
*********************************
