
oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, February 8 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4769



FS: 65 taillights, rear panel and front fenders from F-85 4dr
Re: Bought a grocery getter
No Compression in rebuilt 455
Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455
Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455
Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455
'77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
RE: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput
RE: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Good tool recommendation- wrinkle band ring compressor
yard has 73 D88 4dr
Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455
RE: Bought a grocery getter
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: Bought a grocery getter
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: Bought a grocery getter
RE: Bought a grocery getter 58 wagon?
Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
404584 water pump ....
Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 16:07:15 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: FS: 65 taillights, rear panel and front fenders from F-85 4dr

Hi everyone,
I just got in a pair of taillight assmeblies, the rear
panel and a pair of front fenders.

The taillight lenses are uncracked.  The chrome has
pits in the center bar.  The rear panel has some pits.

The front fenders are really solid down low.  The
driver side has a hole about the size of a quarter in
the wheel arch right about 2 o'clock.  It is also
starting to go on the metal IN the wheel well.  The
passenger side is JUST starting to show a spot down
low.  Other than that both fenders have minor surface
rust.

I can email pics (privately of course) to those
parties interested.

Thanks,
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

http://gloryrestoparts.20megsfree.com/

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 00:47:45 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Bought a grocery getter

At 06:20 PM 2/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/vista.jpg
>
>Okay, so it isn't a REAL grocery getter but none the less its still pretty
>cool. :)
>

THIS is a REAL grocery-getter:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/NewTires-Wheels-a.jpg
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/NewTires-Wheels-b.jpg
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/NewTires-Wheels-c.jpg
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/NewTires-Wheels-d.jpg
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/NewTires-Wheels-e.jpg
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/NewTires-Wheels-f.jpg

Last Monday night, I ran over something while driving the Blue Boat Anchor;
never even saw what it was, before or after. At first, it sounded like a
gear in the rear end broke with a series of BAAANNGG and POPPPS while the
car actually jerked as if the ricer-SOB who'd been on my right rear had hit
me but no... all that turned into a cupla miles of a light
"clikety-clickety-clicks". Then finally, a cupla miles later, there was
this humongous BAANNGG-POWW and the right rear tire went flat  ;o(((
Turned out I apparently picked up some kinda bolt or something; left a
1/4"-5/16" round hole right in the center of the tread of the right rear
Goodyear Wrangler AT/S I'd picked up at a yard sale for $20 for the pair a
cupla years ago  ;o(((((  Not repairable, of course.

So I finally hadda break down and buy new rear tires and wheels. Spent most
of Monday night and Tuesday morning picking and choosing and measuring and
hmmmmming and hawwing and finally decided on that pair of 275/60-15
Yokohama Avids on 15x8 US Wheel wagons  :o))))

Didn't really realize the wheelwell is so high above the tire. Outer edge
of tire's "balloon" projects out about half way into the fender lip. The
air shocks are inflated to 15 PSI in these shots but that didn't even raise
the rear end; this is the height with no air in the air shocks.

They sure ride nicely; and what's strange is the loud whine I used to hear
from the rear end seems either a lot lower or gone, haven't made up my mind
yet.

Believe it or not, it's not at all difficult to break these loose on wet
pavement  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 20:08:23 -0600
From: "Tom Jones" <tom.bearsfan@verizon.net>
Subject: No Compression in rebuilt 455

I was having trouble with the vacuum readings on my 455 that I had rebuilt.
The vacuum readings were very erratic from 3inhg to 20inhg swinging at idle
and at higher rpm.
I then compression tested and got good readings in 7 out of 8.  Number 2
cylinder
had zero yes thats right zero compression.  I hooked up my compressor with
15psi
to the # 2 spark plug and removed the rocker arms to ensure the valves
should be closed.
It sounds as if I am getting air through the exhaust.  I plan to block the
exhaust port tomorrow
with a piece of cardborad or aluminium between the head and the manifold and
re-pressurize to see
if I get leaks anywhere else.  This motor has only about 2 hours of run time
on it and has ony been driven
around the block once.  Is it possible all my compression loss is due to a
leaking or failed exhaust valve?
I have never seen one get no compression at all I don't think it would even
blow out a match in front of the spark plug hole.  What do you experts out
there think ?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 20:30:21 -0600
From: Dave King <buickman@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455

 Did you break the cam in by running @ 2000 to 2500 RPM for 20 min.
?....Head gasket? Bent valve? Flat Cam?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 20:41:46 -0600
From: OLDSmobility <oldsmobility@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455

Tom Jones wrote:

> I was having trouble with the vacuum readings on my 455 that I had rebuilt.
> The vacuum readings were very erratic from 3inhg to 20inhg swinging at idle
> and at higher rpm.
> I then compression tested and got good readings in 7 out of 8.  Number 2
> cylinder
> had zero yes thats right zero compression.  I hooked up my compressor with
> 15psi
> to the # 2 spark plug and removed the rocker arms to ensure the valves
> should be closed.
> It sounds as if I am getting air through the exhaust.  I plan to block the
> exhaust port tomorrow
> with a piece of cardborad or aluminium between the head and the manifold and
> re-pressurize to see
> if I get leaks anywhere else.  This motor has only about 2 hours of run time
> on it and has ony been driven
> around the block once.  Is it possible all my compression loss is due to a
> leaking or failed exhaust valve?
> I have never seen one get no compression at all I don't think it would even
> blow out a match in front of the spark plug hole.  What do you experts out
> there think ?
> 
> 

I had that problem once with the engine in a Pontiac Lemans I 
bought...no compression in one cylinder. Turns out one of the rocker 
nuts had vibrated loose and the rocker was just laying on top of the 
head. But since you said you already had the valve cover off, you'd have 
seen any problems there. Could possibly be a rounded-off cam lobe not 
opening the intake valve.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 02:50:48 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455

At 08:30 PM 2/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> Did you break the cam in by running @ 2000 to 2500 RPM for 20 min.
>?....Head gasket? Bent valve? Flat Cam?

He said he removed the rockers to insure the valves were closed; therefore,
it's either a holed piston or something with the exhaust valve, either
burned, cracked, or possibly a bent stem keeping it from closing.

Or, possibly something with the cylinder or head but he outta have water in
the oil, if so. Could be a blown head gasket but he outta be able to hear
that.

He's gwan hafta yank the head to find out.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 20:34:39 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

The last time we joined our hero, he put on-hand '84-issue calipers on his
'77 Pace Car.  '84 Calipers require '84 M/C due to "low-friction" design.
Fine, we'll swap master cylinders.

Uh, no - '84 MC has larger diameter fitting, won't slide into '77 booster.
OK...we'll swap to '84 booster too - or do you think that's the wrong way
to proceed, and I should just go back to '77 calipers?  '84 MC has plastic
reservoir (doesn't rust)...

While we're looking - the '77's brake lines out of the MC are small in
front, larger in back (the LINES as well as the fittings) -  but on the '84
M/C, it's the other way around.  Also, the rear MC fitting from the '84
fits the FRONT fitting on the '77 MC, but not the back - it's too small.
Needless to say, the '77 brake lines installed do not fit the '84 MC.  I
have the complete '84 rear brake line from M/C to prop valve as well as the
prop valve, unfortunately I cut the front brake line so I have to make at
least on trip to Le Yarde.

With the different diameter lines, it's seems super-prudent to change the
prop. valve out too - so that would give us a complete '84-issue system up
to and including the prop valve.  '77 issue lines out of the prop. valve to
the fronts and rear - what do you think the chances are that they won't fit
the '84 prop valve?  Wouldn't that just be about par for the course?
Experience says that '84 front rubber brake lines mate up with '77 front
steel lines, though...

Was TRYING to do this without spending money.  The '77 M/C leaks against
the booster and would need to be replaced.  The '77 calipers wouldn't push
fluid, I didn't really examine them before I replaced them with relatively
new '84 calipers.  Now I've got no M/C on the car and have to either a)
swap in '84 booster/mc/brake lines/prop valve or b) buy new '77 MC and buy
new '77 calipers.

Two equally unattractive options.  Advice?

Thanks,

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 21:03:27 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput

Paul,
	One more thing.....What do you think regarding Milton's follow-up
reply to my post?

> 2.  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear

"Stay with the stock gear. It will match your cam shaft material correctly.
I
assume you are using a standard cast iron billet camshaft. If the stock gear
is worn for some reason, replace with a stock GM Olds gear."

- -Steve

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Paul Tumolo
> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 10:28 AM
> To: Oldsmobile-Digest
> Subject: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput
> 
> 1.  Heat Treated Oil Pump Driveshaft - Milodon from Summit 2. 
>  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear - Dave Smith Engineering 3.  
> ARP Head Bolts - Summit 4.  ARP Main Bolts - Summit
> 
> Paul Tumolo
> 1970 442 Hardtop
> OCA # 31967
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 03:26:04 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput

At 09:03 PM 2/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Paul,
>	One more thing.....What do you think regarding Milton's follow-up
>reply to my post?
>
>> 2.  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear
>
>"Stay with the stock gear. It will match your cam shaft material correctly.
>I
>assume you are using a standard cast iron billet camshaft. If the stock gear
>is worn for some reason, replace with a stock GM Olds gear."

Read the treatise on cams in the Feb CamroCraft; they seemed to get most
everything pretty correct, including mentioning the above.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 23:10:13 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

I don't want to sound like a bump in the road ,(no pun) but if it is a
numbers matching pace car? Why would you change OEM parts? That will greatly
depreciate the value of the car.
Also the size of the calipers and rotors on a '77 compared to an '84 are
huge. If you're using an '84 caliper and MC setup and trying to stop a
bigger dia. rotor it might be asking for trouble. Don't forget the
proportioner valve is also set up for larger brakes.

Anybody else help in this dilemma?



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems


> The last time we joined our hero, he put on-hand '84-issue calipers on his
> '77 Pace Car.  '84 Calipers require '84 M/C due to "low-friction" design.
> Fine, we'll swap master cylinders.
>
> Uh, no - '84 MC has larger diameter fitting, won't slide into '77 booster.
> OK...we'll swap to '84 booster too - or do you think that's the wrong way
> to proceed, and I should just go back to '77 calipers?  '84 MC has plastic
> reservoir (doesn't rust)...
>
> While we're looking - the '77's brake lines out of the MC are small in
> front, larger in back (the LINES as well as the fittings) -  but on the
'84
> M/C, it's the other way around.  Also, the rear MC fitting from the '84
> fits the FRONT fitting on the '77 MC, but not the back - it's too small.
> Needless to say, the '77 brake lines installed do not fit the '84 MC.  I
> have the complete '84 rear brake line from M/C to prop valve as well as
the
> prop valve, unfortunately I cut the front brake line so I have to make at
> least on trip to Le Yarde.
>
> With the different diameter lines, it's seems super-prudent to change the
> prop. valve out too - so that would give us a complete '84-issue system up
> to and including the prop valve.  '77 issue lines out of the prop. valve
to
> the fronts and rear - what do you think the chances are that they won't
fit
> the '84 prop valve?  Wouldn't that just be about par for the course?
> Experience says that '84 front rubber brake lines mate up with '77 front
> steel lines, though...
>
> Was TRYING to do this without spending money.  The '77 M/C leaks against
> the booster and would need to be replaced.  The '77 calipers wouldn't push
> fluid, I didn't really examine them before I replaced them with relatively
> new '84 calipers.  Now I've got no M/C on the car and have to either a)
> swap in '84 booster/mc/brake lines/prop valve or b) buy new '77 MC and buy
> new '77 calipers.
>
> Two equally unattractive options.  Advice?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 23:19:20 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Good tool recommendation- wrinkle band ring compressor

For years I used the ring compressor which is a roll of bluish spring steel 
that overlaps, and tightens with a square key. Works OK, but the dang thing 
always tries to slide down in the hole, little protrusions notwithstanding. 
Recently I bought another design, and got to use it yesterday.

The new tool is a wrinkled band, the wrinkles are maybe 1/8" deep. It 
adjusts by placing one end of the band in one of several notches in the 
other end of the band, like adjusting your [pants] belt. Then, it tightens 
with an over-center clamp which has a fine adjustment knob for final 
tension. WORKS GREAT. Fast on, never went in the bore, just like a tool 
should work. Paint pen mark on the appropriate notch makes it real fast 
every time. Pix upon request.

Speaking of tools, I found a neat way to make a tool for removing that 
square drive holey plug at the rear of the LH oil gallery. Made 2 today. 
Craftsman punch which was already 5/16" square provided that part. It fits 
pretty nice in a 3/8" 12 pt socket. So, USA-made 1/2 drive 3/8 12-pt sockets 
provided the other part. Weld together, cut 5/16 square to proper length, 
finish the end and the weld, and voila'. Pix upon request. Tried it on the 
latest parts engine - the 350-307, worked like magic. That one was not all 
that tight however.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium 
Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 23:21:09 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: yard has 73 D88 4dr

looking at pulley setups the other day, local yard has fairly nice 1973 
Delta 88 4dr. Great taillites.

Anbody need pcs of such a thing? Radio knobs?
Interior pretty nice. Brown? I cannot recall for sure.

Digest, so inquire DIRECTLY please, if interested.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Plan your next US getaway to one of the super destinations here. 
http://special.msn.com/local/hotdestinations.armx

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 23:25:15 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <Berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455

>It is possible that you have a failed exhaust valve seal, but I would look
for the easier failure first.  A common malaise in this situation would be a
valve failing to close entirely due to not enough total length in the valve
geometry.  Try shimming, ever so modestly, the pedestal supporting the
clamshells in that hole.  If that fails for you, try a leak down test.  That
will help in the diagnostic process.

Peter


 I then compression tested and got good readings in 7 out of 8.  Number 2
> cylinder
> had zero yes thats right zero compression.  I hooked up my compressor with
> 15psi
> to the # 2 spark plug and removed the rocker arms to ensure the valves
> should be closed.
> It sounds as if I am getting air through the exhaust.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 23:32:36 -0500
From: "Erwin Mendoza" <olds6887442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Bought a grocery getter

Pretty cool.................kinda reminds me of my friend's wagon
http://members.aol.com/hotrodharrys/index72.html My buddy bought off of 
Harry almost 2 yrs ago



Erwin Mendoza
OCA# 29671
Rallye 350 Chapter(gone but not forgotten)
87 442 (gone as of 10/02/03)
68 442
Edison, NJ
mailto:olds6887442@hotmail.com





>From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Bought a grocery getter
>Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 18:22:20 -0500
>
>http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/vista.jpg
>
>Okay, so it isn't a REAL grocery getter but none the less its still pretty
>cool. :)
>It came in a 5 pack with these others:
>
>http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/grocery_getters.jpg
>
>For $9.47 at Wallyworld.
>I'm sure some of you have probably already seen these or have them in your
>collection. Just thought I would share. :)
>
>Andrew Geeting
>geeting@woh.rr.com
>'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
>'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
>http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Click here for a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee. 
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 04:26:43 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 11:10 PM 2/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I don't want to sound like a bump in the road ,(no pun) but if it is a
>numbers matching pace car? Why would you change OEM parts? That will greatly
>depreciate the value of the car.

The '77 D88 pace cars are perhaps the most undervalued Olds ever, being
available for anywhere from $500 through $2500 and very rarely any higher.
There's two or three for sale locally every year and none have been
advertised for moren $1500. They're all considered beaters by everyone
except Olds fanatics BECAUSE they're Delta 88s.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:29:10 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 11:10 PM 02/07/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I don't want to sound like a bump in the road ,(no pun) but if it is a
>numbers matching pace car? Why would you change OEM parts? That will greatly
>depreciate the value of the car.

Steve pointed out the undervalued aspect - I'm saving all the parts, but
the original 403/TH350/7.5" open 2.41 has got NOTHING on the 455/TH400/8.5"
posi 3.42 that's going into the car.  And if I do it right, many might not
even notice it...they'll notice the new MC though.

>Also the size of the calipers and rotors on a '77 compared to an '84 are
>huge. If you're using an '84 caliper and MC setup and trying to stop a
>bigger dia. rotor it might be asking for trouble. Don't forget the
>proportioner valve is also set up for larger brakes.

Both this '77 and the '84 that donated the parts have 11" discs in the front.

>
>Anybody else help in this dilemma?
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 9:34 PM
>Subject: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems
>
>
>> The last time we joined our hero, he put on-hand '84-issue calipers on his
>> '77 Pace Car.  '84 Calipers require '84 M/C due to "low-friction" design.
>> Fine, we'll swap master cylinders.
>>
>> Uh, no - '84 MC has larger diameter fitting, won't slide into '77 booster.
>> OK...we'll swap to '84 booster too - or do you think that's the wrong way
>> to proceed, and I should just go back to '77 calipers?  '84 MC has plastic
>> reservoir (doesn't rust)...
>>
>> While we're looking - the '77's brake lines out of the MC are small in
>> front, larger in back (the LINES as well as the fittings) -  but on the
>'84
>> M/C, it's the other way around.  Also, the rear MC fitting from the '84
>> fits the FRONT fitting on the '77 MC, but not the back - it's too small.
>> Needless to say, the '77 brake lines installed do not fit the '84 MC.  I
>> have the complete '84 rear brake line from M/C to prop valve as well as
>the
>> prop valve, unfortunately I cut the front brake line so I have to make at
>> least on trip to Le Yarde.
>>
>> With the different diameter lines, it's seems super-prudent to change the
>> prop. valve out too - so that would give us a complete '84-issue system up
>> to and including the prop valve.  '77 issue lines out of the prop. valve
>to
>> the fronts and rear - what do you think the chances are that they won't
>fit
>> the '84 prop valve?  Wouldn't that just be about par for the course?
>> Experience says that '84 front rubber brake lines mate up with '77 front
>> steel lines, though...
>>
>> Was TRYING to do this without spending money.  The '77 M/C leaks against
>> the booster and would need to be replaced.  The '77 calipers wouldn't push
>> fluid, I didn't really examine them before I replaced them with relatively
>> new '84 calipers.  Now I've got no M/C on the car and have to either a)
>> swap in '84 booster/mc/brake lines/prop valve or b) buy new '77 MC and buy
>> new '77 calipers.
>>
>> Two equally unattractive options.  Advice?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brian
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 21:41:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput

So, what did CamroCraft say?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 8:26 PM
Subject: RE: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput


> At 09:03 PM 2/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> >Paul,
> > One more thing.....What do you think regarding Milton's follow-up
> >reply to my post?
> >
> >> 2.  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear
> >
> >"Stay with the stock gear. It will match your cam shaft material
correctly.
> >I
> >assume you are using a standard cast iron billet camshaft. If the stock
gear
> >is worn for some reason, replace with a stock GM Olds gear."
>
> Read the treatise on cams in the Feb CamroCraft; they seemed to get most
> everything pretty correct, including mentioning the above.
>
> SteveH
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 00:01:07 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 04:26 AM 02/08/2004 +0000, Steve wrote:
>The '77 D88 pace cars are perhaps the most undervalued Olds ever, being
>available for anywhere from $500 through $2500 and very rarely any higher.
>There's two or three for sale locally every year and none have been
>advertised for moren $1500. They're all considered beaters by everyone
>except Olds fanatics BECAUSE they're Delta 88s.

Damn . . I need me one of these!  At least it'd be a car that stands out a
bit.

Of course, the only place I've seen 'em is on eBay, where they typically
want way too much for one in way too poor of shape.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 05:14:12 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 10:29 PM 2/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>>Also the size of the calipers and rotors on a '77 compared to an '84 are
>>huge. If you're using an '84 caliper and MC setup and trying to stop a
>>bigger dia. rotor it might be asking for trouble. Don't forget the
>>proportioner valve is also set up for larger brakes.
>
>Both this '77 and the '84 that donated the parts have 11" discs in the front.

..... and IIRC, ya can swap on the 12-inchers from a B-body wagon with
minimal muss and fuss. Mebbe, ifn you gotta spend money anyhow, ya outta
back up a step or two and consider doing that instead. They go on the
A/G-bodies by changing the upper control arms and lower ball joints but I'm
pretty sure the 12" spindles/rotors/calipers will swap directly on the
"lesser" B-bodies directly. So mebbe look fer a Crapice wagon in the Yarde
and get the schtuff from that.

After all, ifn you put the '84 plastic reservoir on there, it won't exactly
look quite correct anyhow.

One caveat about the 12-inchers, however: the bolt pattern will be 5x5
instead of your present 5x4-3/4. And to get 5x5 in the rear end, you can't
simply swap the rear end from a wagon as it's a bit wider (although I dunno
whether that's just the axle tubes, or whether the extra width also spaced
out the lower control arms, too).

And the other thing: I don't think there's any SS-type wheels in 5x5
pattern, so you'd hafta do something else. B*ick had at least three
good-looking sets of 15x7 aluminum mags on wagons and I believe Olds had
two types although I've never seen them. The Crapices only had the
geeky-looking wire covers or the plain-jane solid covers. Dunno what
Ponchos had. I've got the B*ick Illustration manual and will look to see if
it shows any SS-type wheels but if so, they'll have B*ick center caps  :o(((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 05:15:28 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations - My Imput

At 09:41 PM 2/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>So, what did CamroCraft say?

What you did; they essentially paraphrased the Book of Milton; ya outta sue
em fer plagiarizing ya  8-)

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 01:32:08 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 05:14 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>One caveat about the 12-inchers, however: the bolt pattern will be 5x5
>instead of your present 5x4-3/4. And to get 5x5 in the rear end, you can't
>simply swap the rear end from a wagon as it's a bit wider (although I dunno
>whether that's just the axle tubes, or whether the extra width also spaced
>out the lower control arms, too).

A C-body axle (98 or Electra) should bolt right in, and will have the 5x5 
pattern.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 01:36:47 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Bought a grocery getter

At 12:47 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>So I finally hadda break down and buy new rear tires and wheels. Spent most
>of Monday night and Tuesday morning picking and choosing and measuring and
>hmmmmming and hawwing and finally decided on that pair of 275/60-15
>Yokohama Avids on 15x8 US Wheel wagons  :o))))
>
>Didn't really realize the wheelwell is so high above the tire. Outer edge
>of tire's "balloon" projects out about half way into the fender lip. The
>air shocks are inflated to 15 PSI in these shots but that didn't even raise
>the rear end; this is the height with no air in the air shocks.

I think you could have fit some 295's under there... :)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 06:36:59 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 01:32 AM 2/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>At 05:14 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>>One caveat about the 12-inchers, however: the bolt pattern will be 5x5
>>instead of your present 5x4-3/4. And to get 5x5 in the rear end, you can't
>>simply swap the rear end from a wagon as it's a bit wider (although I dunno
>>whether that's just the axle tubes, or whether the extra width also spaced
>>out the lower control arms, too).
>
>A C-body axle (98 or Electra) should bolt right in, and will have the 5x5 
>pattern.

Ah so, will hafta remember that one (... writing on palm....  :o)

How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 06:54:33 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Bought a grocery getter

At 01:36 AM 2/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>At 12:47 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>>So I finally hadda break down and buy new rear tires and wheels. Spent most
>>of Monday night and Tuesday morning picking and choosing and measuring and
>>hmmmmming and hawwing and finally decided on that pair of 275/60-15
>>Yokohama Avids on 15x8 US Wheel wagons  :o))))
>>
>>Didn't really realize the wheelwell is so high above the tire. Outer edge
>>of tire's "balloon" projects out about half way into the fender lip. The
>>air shocks are inflated to 15 PSI in these shots but that didn't even raise
>>the rear end; this is the height with no air in the air shocks.
>
>I think you could have fit some 295's under there... :)

Yeah, but only cause they wudda fit UNDER, instead of having to fit INSIDE
;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 02:48:04 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: RE: Bought a grocery getter 58 wagon?

"Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com> wrote:

>http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/grocery_getters.jpg
>
>For $9.47 at Wallyworld.
>Andrew Geeting
>geeting@woh.rr.com
>'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
>'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
>http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf
>
>
>Hello
Is that a 58 wagon on the far left(Silver/grey)?
I want one if it is :)
Is Wally World like a Wall Mart?
No Wally World here :(
Good luck!
Randy H.
Van.B.C.Can.
58 88(Tri Power)
72 Cutlass Convert.
72 Cutlass(Buick430)


__________________________________________________________________
New! Unlimited Netscape Internet Service.
Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
Act now to get a personalized email address!

Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 00:02:27 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: No Compression in rebuilt 455

If you have both valves closed while you do a dynamic compression test, of 
course you won't get any compression. You do not suck any air in to 
compress! I guess you did the compression test before removing the rockers? 
And then just removed the rockers to see where your compressed air through 
the spark plug hole was going?

Well, if it leaks without rockers, the cam is completely out of the 
equation. I'd say head gasket, cracked head, cracked piston, cracked block, 
cracked rings or stuck open exhaust valve due to obstruction (large piece 
of carbon, a piece of hardwaere etc.). My vote goes for gasket or cracked 
head, piston or rings. The test to see if anything goes through the exhaust 
port is a very good idea. I'd pull the head sooner than later...

George

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 03:38:42 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 06:36 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??

Only the polycast SSIV's. No SSII/III's that I have ever been able to verify.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 06:40:45 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

> How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??

No.  That is why the pace car replicas in '77 are the only 403 powered 88's
built that came with the small pattern axles.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:12:47 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 06:40 AM 2/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>> How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??
>
>No.  That is why the pace car replicas in '77 are the only 403 powered 88's
>built that came with the small pattern axles.

Ummm.... then the Texas 442 site is wrong about the B/C application??
http://www.texas442.com/wheels/

A Parts Catalog and Illustration manual would solve the issue but I don't
have any that are earlier than '76.

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:11:02 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

At 03:38 AM 2/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>At 06:36 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>>How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??
>
>Only the polycast SSIV's. No SSII/III's that I have ever been able to verify.

Thanks, Bob. And the SSIVs also came in 5x4-3/4"? 
http://www.texas442.com/wheels/wl-SSIV.html

.... indicates only '73-'75 B/C with 5x5. But this site:
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/wheels.html

.... indicates '71-'72 D88s only, 14x7 or 15x7. Perhaps the 71/72 were
5x4-3/4 and 73-75 were 5x5, or were 5x4-3/4 also available in 73-75??

What I'm getting at is whether I can know that when I find SSIVs, they'll
definitely be 5x5.

Wonder what the backspacing was. I measured my 15x7 stocker 5x5 fullsized
wagon wheels last week and came up with 4" backspacing. The 15x8 wagon
wheels I got were only available in 3-3/4 but with the extra width, they
bring the tire further out to the fenderwell lip than I expected. Didn't
have time yesterday to confirm their backspacing.

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 10:38:24 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

> What I'm getting at is whether I can know that when I find SSIVs, they'll
> definitely be 5x5.

Yes, all SSIV's were 5x5.  

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 10:45:10 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

> >> How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??
> >
> >No.  That is why the pace car replicas in '77 are the only 403 powered
88's
> >built that came with the small pattern axles.
>
> Ummm.... then the Texas 442 site is wrong about the B/C application??
> http://www.texas442.com/wheels/

I was referring to the "normal" SSII, SSIII Olds wheels commonly found on
Cutlass models with variants on small pattern 88's from '77-'85.  These were
never made in 5 x 5 pattern.

The Tesas442 site is wrong about the years the SSIV was available.  As a
factory option it was '71, '72 and very early production '73 models.  They
were also available only on Delta 88 models, Not 98's.  You see tons of them
on later cars and even on a few 98's, that does not mean the factory put
them there.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 11:00:07 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: 404584 water pump ....

OK list,

        I just came across a 404584 water pump .....
WHATSITSFIT  ???????


The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 10:01:06 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: '77 & '84 Delta 88 Brake Systems

I appreciate the observation about the 12" rotors and spindles.  I may do
that down the road.  I am NOT doing that now, I need this car to get itself
around the block on its own.  Will seriously consider 12" spindles, rotors,
calipers, upper arms, lower ball joints and prop valve (anything else?
that's a lot of stuff) when I rebuild the front end with polygraphite,
after determining whether a Camaro 1LE 12" rotor (w/ 5x4.75 pattern) will
do what I want (work with SSIIIs).

The rear end was originally in a '78 Buick LeSabre Limited Landau, a 403
powered B-Body coupe (not a wagon) with 12" fronts, 11" rears, and a 5x5
pattern.  Of course, I didn't grab anything except the rear end however
many years ago it was that I found it, and it is now probably gone from Le
Yarde.  I changed the bolt pattern on the rear the old fashioned way -
drilled the 4.75 pattern in the axles and drums, plus ground down the too
large in diamter centering hub to be flush with the axle face (I could have
gone with custom axles, or a stock GM #...well can't find that info right
now, but I could only find two examples, one in N. Dakota and one somewhere
else, both GM & custom were $300, grinding and drilling was free).

What about my original dilemma, re: getting this 11" setup working?

Thanks,

At 06:36 AM 02/08/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>At 01:32 AM 2/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>At 05:14 AM 2/8/04 +0000, you wrote:
>>>One caveat about the 12-inchers, however: the bolt pattern will be 5x5
>>>instead of your present 5x4-3/4. And to get 5x5 in the rear end, you can't
>>>simply swap the rear end from a wagon as it's a bit wider (although I dunno
>>>whether that's just the axle tubes, or whether the extra width also spaced
>>>out the lower control arms, too).
>>
>>A C-body axle (98 or Electra) should bolt right in, and will have the 5x5 
>>pattern.
>
>Ah so, will hafta remember that one (... writing on palm....  :o)
>
>How about 5x5 SS's, did they exist or not??
>
>SteveH
> 

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4769
*********************************
