
oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, February 25 2004    Volume 01 : Number 4793



shaky 330/350
Re: shake?
Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)
Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)
Re: shake?
Re: What is a muscle car? was: muscle cars handling
Re: shake?
Re: seatbelts
Re: ally stuck dist'r
Re: seatbelts
Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: shake?
for sale
Fwd: for sale
Thanks! Was (really X%#$ stuck!)
RE: shake?
RE: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: Anyone running 16" wheels?
RE: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..
Re: shake?
Re: shaky 330/350
Re: shake?
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
67 steering wheel
Fwd: 67 steering wheel
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: seatbelts
RE: Beemers and 3M [was: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)]
Re: 442 spotted in London

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 22:06:34 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: shaky 330/350

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:47:32 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: shake?

  Hey List,
    Last week-end I did the auto to 4 speed swap in my 67 cutlass supreme, I
now have a pretty good shake going on. It begains around 2 grand and levels 
out
a little at higher rpm.
    Here is what I have.....   some will remember my questions in the past
about H.B. for the 330 and 350's... I have a 330 crank and it is set up for 
manual
tranns. it is a 350 block from a 72, 7a heads 4 barrel set up. So my 
question is what should
I look for as to why it should be shaking after the swap, I would like to 
think that it
needs a carb and spark plugs, the car has been setting in a warehouse, and 
only driven in and out for the last year or so.
    Any help would be great.
thanks
john
67 cutlass supreme...
===================
Is it safe to say that you used the 330's flexplate, oops, MT uses 
FLYWHEEL... and did not just use the 4 holes that did line up when the 350 
flywheel was placed on the 330 crank [you laugh, but I can show you a recent 
ebay ad for MT flywheel which SAID it was for a 350... and it was indeed 
FROM a 350... recently... but clearly showed evidence of 1) having been on a 
crank with a C notch (NOT any 330 crank) and 2) having been attached with 
only 4 bolts- because the other holes did not align... and inquiries 
revealed that it was indeed a 330 flywheel.]

If you are absolutely SURE that the problem is not a funky flywheel, then we 
can look at things like wrong balancer, or plug wires not in the correct 
order- heck, that's easy to ck anyhow.

I do have some balancers... so I can compare the basic locations of the 
weight on 350 vs. 330 units.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide. 
http://special.msn.com/home/firsthome.armx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 22:14:55 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

John, Fred, & List,

>        The clutch kit came from the best clutch place in Tampa FL... they
> have
> been around forever and everybody goes to them.


Okay, they're good. Then we can assume the pressure plate was balanced?
That's important.


> > 4) Is there excessive runout on the transmission input shaft?
>
>       Sorry to ask this, but run out?


When the transmission gears are spun, the front input shaft spins true
without any wobble.


>  5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced flywheel
> > for your application?
>
>      Yes, came from 67 442


Okay, but why did you say this:
>    Flywheel, is billet steel and was trimed when  I got the new clutch
kit.

I now know that you meant the flywheel was resurfaced when you said trimmed.
However, a stock Olds flywheel is cast iron, not steel billet. That's why I
asked. All GM flywheels are cast iron.


John, am I recollecting correctly that this engine is the rebuilt 350 we
were discussing as to whether or not it had the correct harmonic balancer on
it? Did you run this engine in the car before you installed the 4-speed? Was
there any vibration then, if you ran it?

Fred Nissen, or anyone else who might have a set of Olds parts books, is the
330 manual transmission flywheel the same part number as the manual
transmission flywheel for an E400 '65-'67 442 engine?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 03:19:17 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)

At 02:27 PM 2/24/2004 EST, you wrote:
>  IDixon@sbrc.ca
> writes:
> 
> >  It had been stored
>>  The short block is
>>on the engine stand. However the points distributor (rusted to bits,
>>essentially junk and I was going to huck it into the garbage upon
>>removal) refused to budge when I tried to turn/remove it: I mean this
>>  I knew it was going to be a bear, so I soaked the whole
>>  I tried turning it one way then the
>>    The
>>aluminum housing cracked off about an inch and a half above the base?!?!
>>MAN. Chock one up for gorilla mechanics, and this gorilla is endowed
>>with the touch of a blacksmith
>
> 
> Ian,
>         If you ever tried the stuff before you will know why.
> Good luck,
> Steve 

- --- converted from html ---
>Put a thin coating of a good anti-seize on the distributor before 
>installing it. Anti-seize is the best stuff in the world for keeping 
>things removable,

I always used molybdenum disulfide assembly grease and never had a
distributor stick like that in a dozen Poncho and several Ch*bby (and, yes
<GASP!!>, even a Frod or two) engines. Accumulate sufficient varnish on the
exposed surfaces as to make it difficult to pull all the way through, yes;
but actually accumulate between the cast iron block and aluminum
distributor housing and cause the two to stick together, never.

This seems to be a prevalent problem with Olds and some Ch*bby distributors
and I'd guess the cause is simply insufficient clearance between the
distributor bore in the block and the distributor housing. A very small
amount of sanding of the distributor to take off less than a thousandths of
an inch, ought to clear up the problem forever, grease or antiseize
notwithstanding.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 19:04:23 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)

Thanks Andy,
Wifes new hobby is an '83 320i.  Since I'm still the household mechanic, I 
need resources.. LOL

M

At 10:43 PM 2/24/2004 +0000, Andrew C. Green wrote:

>http://www.unofficialbmw.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=001648

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 02:00:37 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

At 11:47 AM 2/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>  Hey List,
>    Last week-end I did the auto to 4 speed swap in my 67 cutlass supreme, I
>now
>have a pretty good shake going on. It begains around 2 grand and levels out
>a little
>at higher rpm.
>    Here is what I have.....   some will remember my questions in the past
>about H.B.
>for the 330 and 350's... I have a 330 crank and it is set up for manual
>tranns. it is a
>350 block from a 72, 7a heads 4 barrel set up. So my question is what should
>I look for as to why it should be shaking after the swap,

Does it shake with the tranny in neutral, car is still? If there was no
shake before, then it's probably unbalanced with the "new" manual-tranny
flywheel. It's possible that the clutch pressure plate might be unbalanced
but highly unlikely. I've encountered vibration due to worn clutch throwout
bearings but you can feel that in the clutch pedal... the pedal shimmies
and shakes and usually you'll hear it grinding away.

I've encountered such a shaking due to anything in the tranny although a
bad input shaft bearing could cause a vibration at higher rpms accompanied
by whining or other bearing-type noise.

Such vibration can also be due to a worn rubber ring between the inner and
outer parts of the balancer; is yours new or old? Watch it closely and make
sure it looks like it's stable. If the balancer is wobbling, DO NOT run the
engine any longer until you find the problem; you may break the crank snout
off.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:31:20 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: What is a muscle car? was: muscle cars handling

On the other hand, the barrel of oil for international trade was 
standardized at 42 gallons many years back.  I spent enough time around 
West Texas oil fields to know how much was there.  Andy, I never guessed on 
Imperial gallons, but sometimes I bottle my beer in Imperial Pints. (@20 
oz. each, that would put the Imperial gallon at 160 oz. vs our 128 oz.)

M

At 03:11 PM 2/24/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>>as a kid growing up in Texas, I knew for a fact that a barrel
>>>of oil was 42 gallons :)
>>
>>DANG.... you mean that somewhere in the world, someone, somewhere,
>>has a BIGGER barrel of oil than Texans do????  ===================8-O
>
>This is probably a bad time to mention this but yes, the Imperial gallon 
>in England is about a fifth larger than the American gallon.
>
>-- Andy (ducking while the Revolutionary War breaks out all over again :-)
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Store more e-mails with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage ­ 4 plans to choose 
>from! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 19:06:20 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: shake?

John,
A couple of assumptions here.  Did you drive the car befor the swap to the 
4speed? If so, did you have the vibration?  My thoughts are leaning toward 
driveshaft problems or driveline angle.

M

At 11:47 AM 2/24/2004 -0500, John Orr wrote:
>   Hey List,
>     Last week-end I did the auto to 4 speed swap in my 67 cutlass supreme, I
>now
>have a pretty good shake going on. It begains around 2 grand and levels out
>a little
>at higher rpm.
>     Here is what I have.....   some will remember my questions in the past
>about H.B.
>for the 330 and 350's... I have a 330 crank and it is set up for manual
>tranns. it is a
>350 block from a 72, 7a heads 4 barrel set up. So my question is what should
>I look for as to why it should be shaking after the swap, I would like to
>think that it
>needs a carb and spark plugs, the car has been setting in a warehouse, and
>only driven in and out for the last year or so.
>     Any help would be great.
>thanks
>john
>67 cutlass supreme...

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 02:34:40 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: seatbelts

At 10:37 AM 2/24/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>So far, Arizona is the most repressive with vehicle emissions

Heh.... you need to take a ride up here into the northeastern states if you
really believe that  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

>... but doesn't care about DOT safety equipment substitutions.

I bet that deputy would have drawn the line at the ricer I saw ahead of me
tonight: the idiot had BLUE tail, brake and turnsignal lens on the rear
===========8-O  I really believe that had I been 30 years younger and had
Mr. Colt in my hand, I wudda been sourly (sic) tempted to blow those things
right off the "car" ala Dirty Harry  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 21:36:00 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ally stuck dist'r

Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 14:08:45 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)

My partially dissembled '66 425 is giving me fits. --snip--
The cam spins nicely on its bearings, and I can see the dist gear
meshing and turning with the cam gear with no effort. Try as I might I
cannot move that distributor stub.  How the H&LL I am going to get this
thing out.
===============
I suggest heat
Heat the dist'r stub as much as you can stand, come back tomorrow and see if 
it's loosable. If not, then heat the block [big propane blast heater?] and 
maybe chill the dist stub with say air blast or shill blast cans that they 
sell for electronics fault finding or ice or dry ice...

I can't seem to get the cam out either (travels about an inch forward), I 
guess thats due to the distributor.
===============
I concur. You gotta get that stub out
Rest of engine is apart, on stand? Flip it over and drive the thing out with 
a punch from underside? A long 3/8 rod or punch should reach thru the OP 
drive hole and access the bottom of the dist gear.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:56:15 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: seatbelts

Don't we still allow folks to drive around with 15 kids in the back of a 
pickup truck???

M

At 10:37 AM 2/24/2004 -0700, Milton wrote:
>So far, Arizona is the most repressive with vehicle emissions but doesn't 
>care about DOT safety equipment substitutions.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 20:00:33 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?

At 09:07 AM 02/24/2004 -0500, ron fama wrote:
>  go modified  registration, all you need is to retain the cats
>  not as many limitations as historic
>  contact dmv for more info

I just did a quick check at
http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/cit_plates/specalh.htm and it says that for
Modified Vehicles, it gets a "Street Rod" plate, but also that it must be
pre-1949.

Has this changed and the website's not updated?  Have you tried this for
your cars?

Thanks for any further info you've got.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:00:20 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

    Hey Steve,
   Yes the flywheel is off a 400, but it is my understanding that all
flywheel were the
same for big or small blocks.....  ???
    Tell me why I should take the tranny and clutch pack off and put it back
on again? Lost me with that one..
john
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: shake?


> At 01:39 PM 2/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > 5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced
flywheel
> >> for your application?
> >
> >Yes, came from 67 442
>
> What engine, a 400? That's a big-block whereas your 330 is a small-block.
>
> SteveH
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:08:44 EST
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Subject: for sale

- --part1_1ed.19e7a4dd.2d6e228c_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have an original 68 Hurst olds steering wheel for sale.  metal is perfect 
and wood portion has few repairable splits in it.   If anyone one is interested 
in purchasing please E-mail me privately.  I also have 68 442 side marker 
lights, wheel well moldings, hot air tubes and riser from exhaust manifolds to 
air cleaner.  I also have dash pad from 68 H/O with a/c needs repair.  Also have 
a/c vents to fit 68 442 as well as original literature i.e.  magazines, hurst 
heritage book, and more.  Contact me at  Vvics442@aol.com..........

- --part1_1ed.19e7a4dd.2d6e228c_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  COLOR=3D"#008040" SIZE=3D2 P=
TSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><I>I have an origi=
nal 68 Hurst olds steering wheel for sale.&nbsp; metal is perfect and wood p=
ortion has few repairable splits in it.&nbsp;&nbsp; If anyone one is interes=
ted in purchasing please E-mail me privately.&nbsp; I also have 68 442 side=20=
marker lights, wheel well moldings, hot air tubes and riser from exhaust man=
ifolds to air cleaner.&nbsp; I also have dash pad from 68 H/O with a/c needs=
 repair.&nbsp; Also have a/c vents to fit 68 442 as well as original literat=
ure i.e.&nbsp; magazines, hurst heritage book, and more.&nbsp; Contact me at=
&nbsp; Vvics442@aol.com..........</I></FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1ed.19e7a4dd.2d6e228c_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:19:21 EST
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: for sale

- --part1_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e2509_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

 

- --part1_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e2509_boundary
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Disposition: inline

Return-path: <Vvics442@aol.com>
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Full-name: Vvics442
Message-ID: <1ed.19e7a4dd.2d6e228c@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:08:44 EST
Subject: for sale
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part2_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e228c_boundary"
X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 6021


- --part2_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e228c_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have an original 68 Hurst olds steering wheel for sale.  metal is perfect 
and wood portion has few repairable splits in it.   If anyone one is interested 
in purchasing please E-mail me privately.  I also have 68 442 side marker 
lights, wheel well moldings, hot air tubes and riser from exhaust manifolds to 
air cleaner.  I also have dash pad from 68 H/O with a/c needs repair.  Also have 
a/c vents to fit 68 442 as well as original literature i.e.  magazines, hurst 
heritage book, and more.  Contact me at  Vvics442@aol.com..........

- --part2_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e228c_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  COLOR=3D"#008040" SIZE=3D2 P=
TSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><I>I have an origi=
nal 68 Hurst olds steering wheel for sale.&nbsp; metal is perfect and wood p=
ortion has few repairable splits in it.&nbsp;&nbsp; If anyone one is interes=
ted in purchasing please E-mail me privately.&nbsp; I also have 68 442 side=20=
marker lights, wheel well moldings, hot air tubes and riser from exhaust man=
ifolds to air cleaner.&nbsp; I also have dash pad from 68 H/O with a/c needs=
 repair.&nbsp; Also have a/c vents to fit 68 442 as well as original literat=
ure i.e.&nbsp; magazines, hurst heritage book, and more.&nbsp; Contact me at=
&nbsp; Vvics442@aol.com..........</I></FONT></HTML>

- --part2_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e228c_boundary--

- --part1_155.2e5f11d1.2d6e2509_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:24:44 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: Thanks! Was (really X%#$ stuck!)

Quoted, literally, from the book of Andy:

If you have the lateral room, why don't you try a plumber's wrench? It's

made specifically for getting a good grip on round (pipe) objects. At
one 
point in the BMW repair I was using one to grip the upper end of the
strut 
rod, in fact.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I tried that idea to no avail.  However I did get the dist housing out
with little fuss with the following method last evening:

Removed oil pump, sheet metal plate, o/p drive shaft, broken dist gear,
camshaft as described before.  Cut piece of 3/8" stainless dowel stock
to about double length of what I needed.  Filed one end smooth.  Found a
nice old chrome wheel nut from my "magic bolt box" - used a coat hanger
to position the nut after inserting through the lifter bore - put dowel
end into the nut.   Four medium hammer blows with a BFH (as if setting
in spars on the topgallant) et voila, she's free tout le monde.

This method is fantastically efficient, and I recommend it for that 5
minutes out of one's entire life that you may encounter the issue.
Thanks to all.  Will document this with pics to provide reference if
anyone needs to see what all the yelling was about.

Ian 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:39:19 -0700
From: "DeVries, Garth" <gdevries@acs.utah.edu>
Subject: RE: shake?

I had a shake in my 1970 cutlass after I put in a 455 (the car and
engine ran fine before).  After a very frustrating couple of weeks and
looking at many different things, it turned out that one spark plug was
cracked underneath the spark plug boot in the ceramic part.  Replaced
the spark plug and problem was solved.

Garth DeVries

- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Harrison [mailto:k0xp@dandy.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 7:50 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: shake?

At 01:39 PM 2/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> 5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced
flywheel
>> for your application?
>
>Yes, came from 67 442

What engine, a 400? That's a big-block whereas your 330 is a
small-block.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:00:09 -0800
From: "John Holt sr" <johnlholtsr@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<DIV>Well, seems there is another page to this story..</DIV>
<DIV>I got a call from my favorite customer, same lady with a 93 Sunbird,&nbsp;for those who like closure, I thot I would share. She says the car wont start, 'again',&nbsp;so&nbsp;i get out the voltmeter,&nbsp;battery shows 12 volts, turn switch to start,&nbsp;the longer i hold it in start position, the lower the volts go, down to 3 volts, ok, i'm convinced,&nbsp;and all ya here is the clicking sound in the solenoid.&nbsp;Put&nbsp;booster cables on, wait 5 minutes, turn the key and&nbsp;it starts. nothing wrong with the starter! YaHoo!&nbsp;So I&nbsp;disconnect everything including the cables figuring she is gonna go get a new one,&nbsp;wrong, she wants to drive it down to wally world,, oh-kay, so i hook everything back up, put the cables back on,&nbsp;then the booster cables again,&nbsp;go to start it up again... turn the key&nbsp;,,, &nbsp;WAHBAM, battery explodes, negative side of battery has an inspection&nbsp;window, hmm so thats what the inside of a battery looks like&nbsp;.... sure glad I wasnt standing next to it.</DIV>
<DIV>So, what would cause a spark inside the battery? I would prefer not to have this experience again if possible. Is there something I did wrong? </DIV>
<DIV>Sorry for non-olds content, But maybe this help someone with a problem somewhere down the road, and if nothing else, remind people to use caution when jumping batterys..</DIV>
<DIV>I will have more olds related though when I get back to my 64 Super88, Got some rims and tires frrom a chev truck I parted, 235/75/15, look a lot better than the&nbsp;original 14's.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;Anyone know why they put those neet little inserts in the rims??,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;right where the center piece is welded in, there are those 4 little spaces, there are little inserts,,oh well, need to pull that starter, probably replace the solenoid, hopefully no damaged teeth on flywheel, also have the master brake cyl off for rebuild..then the wheel cylinders, carb,etc etc (car sat for 20 years)&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>64 SUPER 88 has Bendix brakes,, right ?? (as opposed to Kelsey Hayes..)</DIV>
<DIV>(sorry if I ramble) </DIV>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><U>John</U></STRONG></DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMAENUS/2743??PS=">Stay informed on Election 2004 and the race to Super Tuesday.</a> </html>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 17:09:28 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

>Milton has the answer, for we who wish more performance than our little
>260s and 307s will allow: either camouflage your 425 or 455 in small-block
>"colors" or make it impossible to determine what the engine actually is
>through judicial use of the grinder  ;o\

At the risk of getting us even further off-topic, I think I'd be more 
concerned about their reaction to finding an engine with all its identifying 
serial numbers filed off than to their finding the "wrong" engine in there 
in the first place. But I'll concede that any inspector is capable of being 
a nitpicker or a jerk over the rules and regs if he wants to be.

>Hot rodders have been doing just that since the first emissioned engines
>were built. Just make sure it runs as cleanly as possible and it's highly
>unlikely you'll ever have a problem.

Hear, hear. My wife's old '78 Pontiac Grand Prix would consistently pass 
emissions with _no_ convertor underneath, since the original owner had 
swapped it out, until the state finally got tough on stunts like that and 
made us install one anyway.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Store more e-mails with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage – 4 plans to choose from! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:10:07 -0500
From: AnTiCr0mBi@aol.com
Subject: Re: Anyone running 16" wheels?

Dunno if this will help much but I'm running 16x8's on my '64 Cutlass with I think that size (they might be 235/50/16's) and the only clearance problems are when turning over bumps I get a little scrape. The later Cutlass' have more room though, so I think those tires will be fine on your car.

- -Eric Anderson
'64 Cutlass
http://www.angelfire.com/retro/ericskars

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 17:18:10 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..

>She says the car wont start, 'again', so i get out the voltmeter,
>battery shows 12 volts, turn switch to start, the longer i hold
>it in start position, the lower the volts go, down to 3 volts,
>ok, i'm convinced, and all ya here is the clicking sound in the
>solenoid. Put booster cables on, wait 5 minutes, turn the key and
>it starts. nothing wrong with the starter!

(Say, are you posting in HTML? Hotmail is going seriously weird trying to 
reply to your posting, and is shoving your original message off into an 
attachment...)

I'm guessing the deceased battery might have gotten boiled off from frequent 
jumpstarts and deep cycling, and finally shorted a couple of plates in a 
hydrogen-rich atmosphere and *ka-BOOM*.

Anyhow, it might be interesting to do an alternator output test to see it's 
really charging the battery. I suspect it isn't, but with a recharged (for 
the umpteenth time) battery on an engine that starts easily enough, she 
could go for days while running on battery power alone (it takes very few 
amps to _run_ the engine in daytime, once it's been started), and when the 
battery finally poops out, it gets a recharge, another jumpstart and the 
Great Cycle of Life continues.

On the Bonneville forum we're used to hearing about Bonnes eating their 
alternators (my SSEi is on #4, which turns out to be typical); I've rescued 
another couple of Pontiacs with the same problem, and I wouldn't rule it out 
here, either. Just yank the alternator and get it bench-tested.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Stay informed on Election 2004 and the race to Super Tuesday. 
http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:20:03 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

    Hey Garth,
   I am leaning that way myself, The General aka Mark just did a great job
of rebuilding my roch, and I am going to through in a new set of plugs for
a 350 instead of the 330 plugs I have been running, might even be the same
plug
not sure...  the problem is that I have not driven the car for 6 or 7
months, only to back it in and out of the warehouse everyday. Here is the
funny part, today the weather here in Tampa, is cooler and rainy, and the
shack is now where near as bad as it has been.....  just thinking out loud
here....  any input would be great on this..
thanks agian one and all
john



> I had a shake in my 1970 cutlass after I put in a 455 (the car and
> engine ran fine before).  After a very frustrating couple of weeks and
> looking at many different things, it turned out that one spark plug was
> cracked underneath the spark plug boot in the ceramic part.  Replaced
> the spark plug and problem was solved.
>
> Garth DeVries

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:32:16 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: shaky 330/350

Hey List,

            The flywheel came from a 67' 442 - all 330/400/425 from 64-67
used the same "early pattern" fly wheel............   there is no difference
....
In 67' , the 2 barrell low compression cars used a "hub" rather than a
balancer.
All 4 barrel and high compression cars used the two piece balancer with the
rubber
ring.

The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:37:27 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

Milton,
  As for the run off, I can't tell you the truth about that, I can tell you
that everything
looked and felt fine when I was checking out the M20.... but to say that I
was looking for run out while it was in gear...  no, but did not notice any
wobble anywhere....

   As for the billet flywheel, may have miss spoke on this also, but at
least you did
know what I ment by trim....  :-)  as for the flywheel being true, I can
tell you when I was under the car and it was running, I did not notice the
flywheel running off stride, it looked straight to me, and that is one thing
I did look for, not to say that it
might not have been so little that I was unable to see it...

    Yes, this is in fact the motor Milton, it is a 350 1972 with 7a heads
and a 330 steel crank.... looking at the H.B. that came on it and the one
that I got rebuilt from Joe "M" they are one in the same....  does not
appear to have changed at all, so, I am thinking that nothing was balanced
when they put this motor back together....
john

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:29:31 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

Hmmmmm.... looks that my Holley 600cfm is not so bad! I'm getting same mpg
from it, with 74CS, TH350 and 350HP ...my car makes 6.6s 0-60mph, have 3200
converter and all the rest of usual power stuff. I think your Qjet needs a
rebuild and the engine a good tuning, you must be able to have more mpg from
your car if everything is right in it. My Holley is too rich at idle and off
idle, which I can'r correct easily, the WOT is dead on the point with 66/68
jets.
BTW, what the car is? Heavy?
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:48:57 EST
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Subject: 67 steering wheel

- --part1_1f1.19d687fc.2d6e3a09_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

does anyone out there have a custom steering wheel for a '67 442??  Please 
email me privately at Vvics442 @aol.com

- --part1_1f1.19d687fc.2d6e3a09_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  COLOR=3D"#008040" SIZE=3D2 P=
TSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><I>does anyone out=
 there have a custom steering wheel for a '67 442??&nbsp; Please email me pr=
ivately at Vvics442 @aol.com</I></FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1f1.19d687fc.2d6e3a09_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:03:06 EST
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: 67 steering wheel

- --part1_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3d5a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

 

- --part1_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3d5a_boundary
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Disposition: inline

Return-path: <Vvics442@aol.com>
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Full-name: Vvics442
Message-ID: <1f1.19d687fc.2d6e3a09@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:48:57 EST
Subject: 67 steering wheel
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part2_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3a09_boundary"
X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 6021


- --part2_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3a09_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

does anyone out there have a custom steering wheel for a '67 442??  Please 
email me privately at Vvics442 @aol.com

- --part2_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3a09_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  COLOR=3D"#008040" SIZE=3D2 P=
TSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><I>does anyone out=
 there have a custom steering wheel for a '67 442??&nbsp; Please email me pr=
ivately at Vvics442 @aol.com</I></FONT></HTML>

- --part2_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3a09_boundary--

- --part1_11f.2b39af5f.2d6e3d5a_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:14:59 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

> Were there Federal side-of-the-road
> inspections, the EPA is authorized to fine violators up to $10K PER
> VIOLATION. The EPA has, and occasionally does, conduct inspections of
> problematic areas where it suspects flagrant violation of the fed
> regulations, such as muffler shops; there are several incidents related in
> several EPA memos on a Federal site that relate what happened and how.


I believe if one investigates very closely, those Federal fines were levied
solely against businesses. There's a reason.

Fortunately due to the 14th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, neither the
EPA or any other Fed can do anything to an *individual* who alters or
removes emission control equipment from his own vehicle, his private
property. However, enforcement and any penalty is left entirely up to the
governing state agency and state law for that individual. Where the EPA and
any other Fed agency, i.e., DOJ, enters would be for a commercial business,
such as a muffler shop or general auto repair shop, who was altering
emissions control equipment on a customer's cars at a customer's request.
That's where the EPA has teeth on enforcement. The reason the EPA and the
Fed have enforcement against a business and not an individual is one of
jurisdiction. The interstate commerce clause in the U.S. Constitution
provides jurisdiction against a business, for it engages in interstate
commerce. The individual is exempted in most cases. The only area of Federal
law where the interstate commerce clause has been successfully applied to
individuals is in the area of firearms, and that has taken several acts of
Congress. So far, Congress has *not* applied interstate commerce restraints
to the individual for altering emission control equipment of the
individual's privately owned vehicles. Congress has left that solely to the
states.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:26:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: seatbelts

> Don't we still allow folks to drive around with 15 kids in the back of a
> pickup truck???
>
> M


No, that's as many as will fit, stacked like cordwood. Conversely, packed
like fence posts, standing up.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:21:45 -0500
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: Beemers and 3M [was: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)]

Yea thanks Andy, very enjoyable reading.  Sounds like one of my typical
projects.

I've also had some fun lately discovering the idiosyncrasies from the
Germans on my '87 325e.  They build a lot of things to last and a handful of
things that just don't work (can you say "Idle Control Valve"?).

Olds content: Anyone have any comment on using one of those 3M scotch brite
pads on an angle grinder to remove the paint on the exterior of my '69
Cutlass?  Eastwood sells them and I was thinking that they would be very
effective and would not eat into the metal.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Mullins [mailto:mark@marineaviation.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 9:04 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)
> 
> 
> Thanks Andy,
> Wifes new hobby is an '83 320i.  Since I'm still the 
> household mechanic, I 
> need resources.. LOL
> 
> M
> 
> At 10:43 PM 2/24/2004 +0000, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> >http://www.unofficialbmw.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_t
opic&f=6&t=001648

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:44:35 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: 442 spotted in London

On Tue, Feb 24, 2004 at 10:40:29PM +0000, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> >When we headed over to England in 1984 (RAF Upper Heyford, more
> >specifically), Dad removed the catalytic converter and fuel-inlet
> >restrictor from our '80 Chevette (you couldn't get unleaded fuel there at
> >the time) and had it loaded onto the boat.  Those items were put back on
> >when we returned in '88.
> 
> *boggle*
> 
> Wouldn't it have been easier to walk down to the local Vauxhall dealer and 
> just _buy_ a Chevette when you got over there?  :-)  I mean, they even 
> _looked_ similar to the 'murrican ones, even though they were not 
> technically the same car (unlike competitors like the Escort, which really 
> were "world cars").

Uncle Sam would pay to ship one car over and two cars back IIRC, and we
already had a suitably small car.  (We ended up getting a second vehicle
while we were there, just to have something in right-hand-drive (and to have
a second vehicle).  That car, a Mazda 323, was Dad's first and last
rice-burner.  Damn thing started rusting out (rust spots on the sheet metal
and rust on the wheels near the hubs) after less than two years, and the
exhaust system needed replacement after one year when a weld broke.  The
Chevette was four years older and still looked and ran like new after six
years.  While it had a lower top speed, it was a better hill-climber.)

(Besides, for all the trepidation Dad had about buying a Japanese car
(trepidation which turned out to be well-founded), he'd heard even worse
about British cars, especially at the low end of the market.  Even GM's
British operations weren't generally regarded as being up to the same
standards as their stateside operations.)

  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
 / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
 \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4793
*********************************
