
oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, January 18 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4746



Re: Replace 371 with 455?
Re: Replace 371 with 455?
engine stands and hoists revisited...
Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...
350 rebuild goes slowly
MT setup must go
Anyone heard of "CA" heads on a 68 442?
Re: Anyone heard of "CA" heads on a 68 442?
Re: Replace 371 with 455?
Re: More stuffs in today - MT setup, DIY AT 455 block + Crank
Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...
Wheels and Rust
Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...
Re: 455 Fuel Injection?
RE: Question from clueless eBay Member [for the amusement of the email list]
Apologies - Re: More stuffs in today - MT setup, DIY AT 455 block + Crank
Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...
Re: 455 Fuel Injection?
Re: 455 Fuel Injection?
engine hoist

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 00:07:29 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Replace 371 with 455?

At 03:35 PM 1/17/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Has anyone out there put a 455 where a 371 engine used to be? Any 
>tips/warnings? I think I've decided on a 455 for my rod project now that I 
>know that fuel injection is available (albeit very expensive).

I think Milton responded with some info just a week or so ago. IIRC, you've
got a number of problems, including:
1. 371/394 engine mounts are at the front of the engine rather than the
center as on the later blocks;
2. Tranny hump will have to be enlargened as the "slim jim" in there now is
much smaller than a TH350/TH400-era tranny.

There was more but I didn't save his response. There will be problems with
exhaust manifold pipe routing since the later blocks dump to the rear while
the older ones dumped in the center, IIRC. You can do it but it's gonna be
a project and a half. I think Milton mentioned something about having to
trim the front crossmember, too.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 18:17:27 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: Replace 371 with 455?

Thanks tons Steve. I'll look for the old message.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 21:24:09 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: engine stands and hoists revisited...

All,

Well, having gotten the lesson in physics, I'm thinking I'm going to return
my 1000lb hoist for something a bit beefier.  Certainly it'd be good for
smallblock C-brands, as well as V6s, but seeing as my first project is
going to involve a 455, and I'd probably have to torque some bolts down and
all, more seems better.

There's two other stands where I work, one of which rates at 1250 lbs and
another for 2000 lbs, which I can get for $70 and $95 respectively.  I'll
probably also check out what Sears has.  Any other places I could look as
well for a reliable, true-to-what's advertised stand?


I have to correct something on that whole hoist issue I mentioned
earlier..... I thought it was the 2000lb unit that went for $200, and I
could've sworn that's what our flyer said.  But looking in the computer
system today, the 2000lb unit doesn't bring up a price, and the 4000lb unit
runs $200.

They also mention "ram" capacity, which I assume is the hydraulic
shock-looking thing that actually lifts the arm.

On the 2000lb unit, the ram is rated at 3 tons, and the picture does sort
of look like the ram is attached about 1/3 of the way from the pivot to the
end, so I guess that makes sense.

Couldn't quite tell from the picture of the 4000lb unit, but the ram is
rated at 8 ton capacity.

Still, I'm going to check out other manufacturers as well.  These units are
American companies, but they appear to be manufactured elsewhere, and here
and there what I've heard on the list has led me to believe the stuff made
overseas doesn't always hold up quite as well as it should.  Again,
recommendations, thoughts, etc?  The only place I really know to start
looking is Sears, and the JC Whitney catalogs.


Overall my cash is tight, but I would prefer to err a bit on the side of
caution in this case.  I do not even want to think about experiencing what
Milton's foot went through!


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 19:44:04 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...

Joe,
My work just picked up a 2000 lb hoist at Harbor Freight.  We don't need it 
very often, but it's handy for diesel cylinder heads, and has at least on a 
couple of occasions held up to a complete 5.9 Cummins with Allison tranny 
attached.

M


At 09:24 PM 1/17/2004 -0500, King V wrote:
>Still, I'm going to check out other manufacturers as well.  These units are
>American companies, but they appear to be manufactured elsewhere, and here
>and there what I've heard on the list has led me to believe the stuff made
>overseas doesn't always hold up quite as well as it should.  Again,
>recommendations, thoughts, etc?  The only place I really know to start
>looking is Sears, and the JC Whitney catalogs.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:00:47 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 350 rebuild goes slowly

Hard to find time between child care and shipping to get to work on it. Had 
to spend an hour today getting propane to keep warmish. Today I painted the 
fan and air cleaner, and removed block from engine stand to install cam 
bearings and ck-see why no air came thru LH oil gallery. That was due to 
severe blockage of SLUDGE. This is AFTER the hot tanking. Had to remove the 
bulk of it w/ screwdriver. I have pix of this engine's valley- black crusty 
crud was filling the entire void between block and intake. Well, not 100% of 
it, but all of it in the areas of cylinders #4 and 6.

Then I find that my engine cleaning brush kit is missing the handle and long 
extension for cleaning oil galleries. :-(

Install cam bearings, only to discover that the tool is missing the #5 
pilot. And the threaded rod got bent, and is not so easy to use.

Finally got all the cam bearings in anyhow. Looking at getting maybe a gun 
cleaning kit for the gallery cleaning brushes, then assembly should pick up 
the pace a bit.

However, have to go to the farm tomorrow to take care of a couple minor paid 
orders... dowel pins and the like.

Huh, sold a 455 crank for cheap on ebay just to get it out from underfoot, 
go to box it up and find that it was a Manual Trans version. Lucky buyer I 
guess. $44.20 and shipping.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
High-speed users—be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet 
Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:03:13 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: MT setup must go

In case I was not clear on the Manual Trans setup with 1973 M20....

It must be sold, I owe the man for the stuff and more.

If no good offers come in by say Tuesday, I will break the set and sell it 
off pc by pc on eVil. Folks at ROP.com have been duly notified as well.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN. 
http://wine.msn.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:02:33 -0600
From: Texas442 <Texas442@Texas442.com>
Subject: Anyone heard of "CA" heads on a 68 442?

Can anyone answer Chuck's question in the e-mail below?  What is the 
difference between "C" Heads and "CA" heads?
"CA" is listed on the 442.com FAQ page, but without enough 
information.  From the photos in the link below, the casting # appears to 
be 394548A.

http://www.texas442.com/CAheads/cf456a.JPG
http://www.texas442.com/CAheads/cf45ad.JPG
Ali

>Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 01:37:32 -0000
>From: "Charles R Bledsoe Jr." <cbledsoe@hot.rr.com>
>To: texas442@texas442.com
>Subject: CA heads
>
>Ali,
>Have you ever run across CA heads? I have a pair on my 1968 442.
>Can't seem to find any one who knows much about them, even the
>people at the oldsmobile historical socity have'nt heard of them. I
>will try to attach a picture.
>Thanks.
>
>Chuck Bledsoe.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 21:56:57 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of "CA" heads on a 68 442?

Texas 442, Chuck, and List,

>From the Olds FAQ
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm#Heads

"C  '67 - '69  425/455  80cc  394548   A/C '68 H/O's. Toro's and 442's got
big valves. Rumored to flow the best of all BB heads. Can still be found.

"CA  Very small ~3/8" ID lettering."

It looks like a "CA" head is just an alternate head for a "C". 394548A makes
all the sense in the world for the head casting number. Those are
undoubtedly the original heads for your 442 engine.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Texas442" <Texas442@Texas442.com>
To: <AustinOlds@yahoogroups.com>; <ntoc@the-design-studio.com>;
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 9:02 PM
Subject: Anyone heard of "CA" heads on a 68 442?


> Can anyone answer Chuck's question in the e-mail below?  What is the
> difference between "C" Heads and "CA" heads?
> "CA" is listed on the 442.com FAQ page, but without enough
> information.  From the photos in the link below, the casting # appears to
> be 394548A.
>
> http://www.texas442.com/CAheads/cf456a.JPG
> http://www.texas442.com/CAheads/cf45ad.JPG
> Ali
>
> >Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 01:37:32 -0000
> >From: "Charles R Bledsoe Jr." <cbledsoe@hot.rr.com>
> >To: texas442@texas442.com
> >Subject: CA heads
> >
> >Ali,
> >Have you ever run across CA heads? I have a pair on my 1968 442.
> >Can't seem to find any one who knows much about them, even the
> >people at the oldsmobile historical socity have'nt heard of them. I
> >will try to attach a picture.
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Chuck Bledsoe.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 22:24:02 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Replace 371 with 455?

Greg,

Problems:
1) The second generation Olds engine, 455, mounts off the center of each
side of the block.
2) The first generation Olds engine, 371-394, mounts off the front of the
timing cover.
3) Second generation Olds powertrains have one transmission mount at the
transmission tailhousing attached to a central frame crossmember.
4) First generation Olds powertrains have two transmission supports mounted
off of each side of the bellhousing, with a crossmember underneath at the
bellhousing.
5) The bellhousing bolt pattern and rear of block configuration between a
first generation Olds engine and a second generation Olds engine is as
different as night and day.

Solutions:
1) There is an early ('66?) Toronado that used a front engine mount. That
mount system might work. Otherwise, you'll have to build something from
scratch or build an under engine central crossmember to support the 455.
2) A block plate, commonly used in race cars, which goes between the rear of
the block and the transmission bellhousing, could provide the mounting point
for the twin side mounts at the bellhousing. Otherwise, a new crossmember
for the **late** model transmission's tailhousing will need to be
fabricated.
3) Notice that I just said "late model transmission." You will not be able
to bolt the dual coupling Hydra-Matic to the back of the 455. It won't fit,
and there are no adapters. There's no reason for one. Therefore, plan on
installing a TH400 behind your 455. That means building a central
crossmember for the TH400's tailhousing mount. I don't think a TH400
bellhousing will survive mounted like the original transmission with the two
bellhousing mounts and no tailhousing support. The TH400 case wasn't
designed to mount that way. Drivetrain torque could twist the TH400 case and
break it at the bellhousing.
4) The probable 455-TH400 mounting system you would wind up with would be a
front engine mount off of the timing cover, either Toronado or scratch
built, block plate to accommodate the original twin bellhousing mounts in
some way, and a new crossmember to carry the tailhousing mount for the
TH400. 4 engine/transmission mounts total, front, twin center, tailhousing.
With 4 points of contact, overall alignment, with no preload stress, will be
critical. That's why 3 points of contact are generally used, because 3
points determine a plane, just like 2 points determine a straight line. 4
points determine nothing, other than a balancing act.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 23:01:39 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: More stuffs in today - MT setup, DIY AT 455 block + Crank

Chris - 

MT setup still there?

Do you have any other info re: where that came from?  You mention the '73
trans, but put "68 GTO" in quotes as if you don't believe it...do you have
any reason to think it came from something later?

I'm dreaming that you have something complete that's easily adaptable to
the '77 Pace Car...

At 10:37 PM 01/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Can hardly keep up with the flow here
>Transes all spoken for I guess, friend of my brother's neighbor...
>
>Today came:
>1976 455 block with Nodular AT crank. AT-only block, F9, std bores, new cam 
>bearings, crank needs polish.
>
>J heads for the above, need valve job, 1 xst valve missing.
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>Manual Trans setup from "1968 GTO"
>Except that the trans ID's as
>1973 Cutlass [Lansing built Olds anyhow- 33Mxxxxxx VIN]
>M20 wide ratio [best used with 3.55 and numerically lower gears]
>dual-groove Fine spline input, TH400 sized output
>2.56 1st gear ratio
>
>Pedals assembly with Clutch disengaged starter safety switch
>
>Z-bar, funky split design, with actuating rod [long]
>
>Bellhouse with fork [not installed, not 10% sure it's correct...]
>
>Shifter, with round handle stem/ stalk and Hurst handle
>-----------------------
>Chris Witt
>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>Lansing MI 48911
>
>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up — fast & reliable Internet access with prime 
>features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1
>

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----- 
Brian Ammons 	
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
reallywildstuff@yahoo.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------ 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 01:00:24 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...

At 09:24 PM 1/17/04 -0500, you wrote:
>Overall my cash is tight, but I would prefer to err a bit on the side of
>caution in this case.  I do not even want to think about experiencing what
>Milton's foot went through!

I've bought a couple of China-fabricated 1000lb engine-stands for about $75 
and a 2-ton engine hoist for $200 from BJ's, I think, and they've held up 
fine. It seems that you can trust the Chinese with stick-welding and basic 
hydraulic cylinder fabrication.

Definitely spring the extra $25 for the stronger engine-stands, though. I 
once had a 455 on a 750lb 3-wheel engine-stand, and that was scary! A 
1000lb 4-wheel engine-stand will hold it, if you don't have to move it. In 
fact, though, you want the extra stability for when your caster hits that 
nut you forgot to pick up off the floor as you and a friend are wheeling 
the engine out of the way. That's when a 2000lb engine-stand will just 
stop, while a 1000lb engine-stand will tip that 455 over onto your foot!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 00:25:00 -0800 (PST)
From: JEFFREY LISLE <jeffslisle@yahoo.com>
Subject: Wheels and Rust

- --0-628212713-1074414300=:60364
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I am stationed in Okinawa, Japan with my pride and joy '65 Cutlass Convertable and I hear cars rust alot here because of the ocean and all.  My question is does anybody have any good suggestions to keep my rust free ride rust free?  Also I am really considering 17x8 Torque Thrust II wheels but am concerned about the back space, I have no idea how to figure out the back space for my car, any help & anyone have this wheel combo on their car?  Thanks Jeff


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
- --0-628212713-1074414300=:60364
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>I am stationed in Okinawa, Japan with my pride and joy '65 Cutlass Convertable and I hear cars rust alot here because of the ocean and all.&nbsp; My question is does anybody have any good suggestions to keep my rust free ride rust free?&nbsp; Also I am really considering 17x8 Torque Thrust II wheels but am concerned about the back space, I have no idea how to figure out the back space for my car, any help &amp; anyone have this wheel&nbsp;combo on their car?&nbsp; Thanks Jeff</DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Yahoo! Hotjobs: <a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/hotjobs/mail_footer_email/evt=21482/*http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus">Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes</a>
- --0-628212713-1074414300=:60364--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 08:37:16 -0500
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...

Hi Joe,
    The 4000lb hoist that I have was purchased at Cosco's a few years 
back for under $200. It is a very well made unit and is quite sturdy. So 
check out the warehouse type stores in your area, maybe they'll have 
them too.
See ya,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 09:07:56 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Fuel Injection?

That's pretty and all, but those guys are perpetuating the myth that 
EFI is expensive voodoo.
If you have some electronics assembly skill, buy a MegaSquirt kit and 
build it (http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html), or buy an SDS EFI 
(http://www.sdsefi.com/). Find a Torker manifold and install injector 
bungs in it, build a fuel rail (http://www.sdsefi.com/techrail.htm), 
wire and plumb fuel. Tuning is the fun part.
Any 'kit' is going to be  bunches more expensive than gathering the 
parts yourself. To me, setting up the high-pressure fuel system with 
return is the stickiest part. I want an in-tank fuel pump, so I'm 
trying to find a EFI B-body tank. Unfortunately, all the u-pullit 
places poke holes in them to let the gas out.
I've already acquired a Cadillac Seville Olds 350 EFI manifold, I have 
the fuel injectors I think I'm going to use, and I have the MegaSquirt 
built. Still need to gather sensors, find a throttle body, and such, as 
well.

krw
On Jan 17, 2004, at 5:39 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:08:34 -0500
> From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
> Subject: Re: 455 Fuel Injection?
>
>    well that makes my old Rochester look pretty good!  almost 4 
> grand....
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme
>
>
>
>>>> Are there after-market fuel injection kits available for the 455?
>>
>> http://www.rancefi.com/ManifoldsforSale/olds4.htm
>>
>> -- 
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:43:08 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Question from clueless eBay Member [for the amusement of the email list]

Ya it's me again...the same guy that gave you crap about your overpriced 
console
for the Cutlass...are you for real?
============
What a great country where folks have nothing better to do than pursue 
imaginary "problems"! We are indeed blessed, and you, sir, best exemplify 
that.

Any idiot knows that any c-4 Vette is tpi or at least crossfire for '84 
models!  Start being honest and sell your 79 caprice or 79 truck carb for 
what it is!
==========
Well, that explains it, sir. I needed "any IDIOT" to write and set me 
straight. I have a real lack of idiocy here, that must be why I relied on 
the info I found in the internet search of the carb number, and insist in 
each ad that the  "Buyer will of course investigate application to their own 
satisfaction before bidding."
    I state what I know or found out about the items by the usual methods. 
it is up to the BUYER to investigate details that might matter to them... 
oh, yeah, BUYER.... since you are, by virtue of your previous missives, on 
my banned bidder list, that rules you out right there, huh? So, really, this 
whole thing is just.... none of your business. And yet, you find the time to 
worry about it. Lucky you.

What a scammer!....And buy the way... You were kind enough to respond to my 
last e-mail on your console by replying that "if I had a car worthy of a 
$300 dollar console...." You only wish you had some of my cars.....
=============
yeah, whatever, I am sure your collection is a whole bunch if immaculate and 
perfectly running CHEVY CHIT like everyone else has, and so pretty that you 
cannot actually drive them or have any fun with them. My well driven 1968 
442 sees service every chance we get. It's not real pretty but that's ok, 
don't mind using it that way. Someday, with the parts I have now, though, it 
will be made into what it should have been in the 1st place.

Beware my friend...this rip off crap is gonna catch up with you....Just re 
read some of your negative feedback
=============
I know about my neg feedback, sir. Amazing, again, that you _had time_ to 
wade thru the 800+ POSITIVE feedbacks to find the 6 negatives. It's true 
that about 3/4 of 1% of people are 'holes that you just cannot satisfy no 
matter what. That's where that comes from. And, gee, they are almost 
always... guess what... CHEVY people. heh. Amazing. Same d'weeds that think 
loud = fast. Oh, sheez, hope I didn't offend you there.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN. 
http://wine.msn.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 10:22:38 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Apologies - Re: More stuffs in today - MT setup, DIY AT 455 block + Crank

So sorry, that should have been private.

At 11:01 PM 01/17/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Chris - 
>
>MT setup still there?
>
>Do you have any other info re: where that came from?  You mention the '73
>trans, but put "68 GTO" in quotes as if you don't believe it...do you have
>any reason to think it came from something later?
>
>I'm dreaming that you have something complete that's easily adaptable to
>the '77 Pace Car...
>
>At 10:37 PM 01/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>Can hardly keep up with the flow here
>>Transes all spoken for I guess, friend of my brother's neighbor...
>>
>>Today came:
>>1976 455 block with Nodular AT crank. AT-only block, F9, std bores, new cam 
>>bearings, crank needs polish.
>>
>>J heads for the above, need valve job, 1 xst valve missing.
>>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>>Manual Trans setup from "1968 GTO"
>>Except that the trans ID's as
>>1973 Cutlass [Lansing built Olds anyhow- 33Mxxxxxx VIN]
>>M20 wide ratio [best used with 3.55 and numerically lower gears]
>>dual-groove Fine spline input, TH400 sized output
>>2.56 1st gear ratio
>>
>>Pedals assembly with Clutch disengaged starter safety switch
>>
>>Z-bar, funky split design, with actuating rod [long]
>>
>>Bellhouse with fork [not installed, not 10% sure it's correct...]
>>
>>Shifter, with round handle stem/ stalk and Hurst handle
>>-----------------------
>>Chris Witt
>>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>>Lansing MI 48911
>>
>>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>>
>>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>>Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up — fast & reliable Internet access with
prime 
>>features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1
>>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>----- 
>Brian Ammons 	
>b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>reallywildstuff@yahoo.com
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------ 
>

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----- 
Brian Ammons 	
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
reallywildstuff@yahoo.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------ 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 12:36:40 -0500
From: "Dan Roethel" <droethel@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: engine stands and hoists revisited...

- ----- Original Message ----- 
> Hi Joe,
>     The 4000lb hoist that I have was purchased at Cosco's a few years
> back for under $200. It is a very well made unit and is quite sturdy. So
> check out the warehouse type stores in your area, maybe they'll have
> them too.
> See ya,
> Gene
Got my hoist for Cosco too. The company is US but it is made in China.
Used it to hoist my 455 on to a trailer. Cranked it to it's maximum height
close to 9ft. Hoist was stable. One draw back on my hoist that I'd like to
pass
on to others. The front wheels on my hoist are quite large 5-6inches.
This creates a problem when you try and roll the hoist under your front
suspension.
I barely clears. The newer models at Cosco have smaller front wheel now, so
keep
this in mind when you buy a hoist.
Dan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:19:37 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Fuel Injection?

>That's pretty and all, but those guys are perpetuating the myth that EFI 
>is expensive voodoo.
>If you have some electronics assembly skill, buy a MegaSquirt kit and 
>build it (http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html), or buy an SDS EFI 
>(http://www.sdsefi.com/). Find a Torker manifold and install injector 
>bungs in it, build a fuel rail (http://www.sdsefi.com/techrail.htm), wire 
>and plumb fuel. Tuning is the fun part.

Is the difference between these two set ups the difference between TBI and 
Port injection? A friend asked if the "you build it" system was technically 
throttle body injection... supposedly not as good as port injection? It's 
all greek to me at this point... although I understand the circuit 
diagrams, so I'm excited by the possibility of building my own.

Thoughts anyone?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 17:29:18 -0500
From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Fuel Injection?

The "you build it" system can be used for either type from what I
understand.

Most of the price of the Rance EFI systems is the Accel VII controller which
I am told is a really good piece. But it costs close to $1500 just for the
computer and software.

I believe the absolute BEST controllers out there are made by Motec but they
get very, very pricey.

I have nothing against the Megasquirt as it sounds like a really good DIY
EFI system. But from what I have gathered it won't do everything that the
Accel computers will. At least not yet.

Andrew Geeting
geeting@woh.rr.com
'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf

> Is the difference between these two set ups the difference between TBI and
> Port injection? A friend asked if the "you build it" system was
technically
> throttle body injection... supposedly not as good as port injection? It's
> all greek to me at this point... although I understand the circuit
> diagrams, so I'm excited by the possibility of building my own.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 19:45:23 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: engine hoist

Still, I'm going to check out other manufacturers as well.  These units are
American companies, but they appear to be manufactured elsewhere, and here
and there what I've heard on the list has led me to believe the stuff made
overseas doesn't always hold up quite as well as it should.  Again,
recommendations, thoughts, etc?  The only place I really know to start
looking is Sears, and the JC Whitney catalogs.

Joe,
   The one I have (was given for free by the way) can be found at 
excaliburtool.com It is model #H308SS3C. It is capable of handeling a
455 with no problem. It lifts rolls ets. Check it out
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4746
*********************************
