
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 7 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4733



Re: brake bleeding order
EFI Olds (was Re: Seville intake (was Custom timing curves vs. MAP))
Motorhead Jewelry
Re: "kissed" by another car
1970 Cutlass Convertible parts for sale!!
Re: 1970 Cutlass Convertible parts for sale!!
RE: "kissed" by another car
Re: "kissed" by another car
RE: "kissed" by another car
64 Olds Super88, looking for Olds advice. Keep 394 engine or swap it out...
Re: "kissed" by another car
I  made the  big time 
Re: I  made the  big time 
Re: I  made the  big time 
Re: I  made the  big time 
Re: 64 Olds Super88, looking for Olds advice. Keep 394 engine or swap it out...
Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?
Re: brake bleeding order
Spark plug wires
Re: Brake bleeding
Re: I  made the  big time 
Re: I  made the  big time 
Re: 64 Olds Super88, looking for Olds advice. Keep 394 engine or swap it out...
Spark Plug Wires
Re: Brake bleeding
455 HEI Tidbit
Re: 455 HEI Tidbit

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 22:38:16 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

ron fama wrote:
>   1976 sevice manual shows furthest to closest

1969 service manual shows closest to furthest.

I suspect that there is a correct method for each brake system, drum 
only, disc/drum, and disc only.

Pressure bleeding is the way to go, no confusion :)
- -- 

Ye gods, I have no sig!
Oh, nevermind, there it is.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 05:54:14 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: EFI Olds (was Re: Seville intake (was Custom timing curves vs. MAP))

It's all going in my '70 Cutlass Sports Coupe. The tank would fit, it's 
a rear fill (through the license plate) like the factory piece, but 
would probably be a bit small, especially with the spare tire well 
divot it had in it. I didn't measure it since it was perforated.
I'd like an EFI tank not only for the baffles, but for the internal 
fuel pump. It's just cleaner that way, I think, even if it's not 
strictly necessary. I'm thinking an EFI Caprice fuel tank should be 
just about right. Most GM in-tank fuel pumps are the same physical 
size, so even a TBI car tank should be able to be easily fitted with a 
big honkin' Walbro 255lph or larger unit. Now to find a Yarde that 
doesn't mangle them...

I know that the cast iron intakes had a bigger throttle body, but 
apparently the only difference in the actual intakes (besides the fact 
that the cast iron guy is heavy - though not as heavy as a dual-plane 
manifold) was the size of the holes on the TB mounting flange, which 
can be bored out. See: http://www.grimers.com/olds/403fi.htm

krw

On Jan 4, 2004, at 11:35 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 12:30:49 -0500
> From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Seville intake (was Custom timing curves vs. MAP)
>
> The cast iron intakes are reputed to flow a little better due to having
> larger diameter holes for the throttle body. What car are you putting 
> this
> into? Doubtful the Seville tank would've fit much but an X body. As 
> long as
> you don't take a hard corner with less than 1/4 tank of gas (w/o EFI
> baffles), a stock tank should suffice.
> Chris
> - ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Well - never mind!
>> I actually found a '77 Seville in the Yarde this weekend! Got the 
>> (cast
>> iron - I might be interested if someone has the aluminum one handy)
>> intake and fuel rail, FPR was missing, and someone had already robbed
>> the throttle body and the fuel pump from the tank, which I also
>> couldn't use, because the bloody yardes like to poke holes in them to
>> empty them...
>>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Euless, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 07:58:26 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Motorhead Jewelry

http://www.motorheadjewelry.com/index.html

Pretty cool stuff. Think we could convince them to do Olds rocket 
emblems? :)

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Euless, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 07:00:20 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: "kissed" by another car

> How about polishing compound? I believe it's less abrasive than rubbing
> compound.
>

Good suggestion.  I have many levels of abrasiveness and work from lightest to heaviest until scratches are removed.
However, buying this variety is costly. Rubbing compound isn't too abrasive when applied by hand. The amount of pressure
used when rubbing causes a good variance in how abrasive it is to the paint.

Kevin :o)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 09:12:10 -0600
From: James Aiello <ilo@kwom.com>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass Convertible parts for sale!!

- --Apple-Mail-5-605450519
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset=US-ASCII;
	format=flowed

List I'm parting a Cutlass conv. below is a list of parts that I have 
pulled off
the car and I'm ready to sell. The prices are ballpark so make offers. 
This is
the car I listed about 4 months ago and just got around to parting.
I'm in the Chicago western suburbs.

Thanks
James

70 Auto console lid works with wood grain great shape. $140

70 Black Door Panels good shape carpet needs replaced. $50

70 Black Dash no cracks.  $75

70 Reg. auto shifter with neutral safety switch & cables. $75

70 Conv. black Rear seats back and bottom.  Needs recovered $75

70 Black Rear side panels with the wood grain. great shape.  $75

70 Blk Rear arm rests and piston cover panel.  good shape one tear but 
hidden by seat $75

70 Top motor works $95

70 Top pistons worked when last used. $75 pair

70 Stainless trim for windshield top outside, no dings will polish up 
great $100 (the one everyone wants)

70 Stainless trim for windshield side outside, no dings will polish up 
great $50

Black steel windshield top trim inside. $40

Black soft windshield side trim inside good shape no cracks. $40

Windshield rust free sheet metal frame, cut off $100 obo

70 Blk. Top complete w/glass rear window one 1/4:" tear, some padding 
on the inside torn.
	works great no rust, header bow perfect. Sell as a complete unit. $350 
obo

70 Stainless 2 piece rear Top Well trim, no dings great shape. $150

70 Top switch works $50

70 AM/FM radio with amp.  unknown if works $150

70 Core support no rust great shape! $150

70 Rear Bumper some rust no holes great core $75

70 Cutlass tail lights no cracks with stainless trim. All 4 $75

Sunvisor arms Conv. only part $45

Conv. Frame one small spot has a hole ???

12 Bolt rear end, unkown ratio. $100

Ask if you need anything else off this car before it goes to the 
crusher.
- --Apple-Mail-5-605450519
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/enriched;
	charset=US-ASCII

List I'm parting a Cutlass conv. below is a list of parts that I have
pulled off

the car and I'm ready to sell. The prices are ballpark so make offers.
This is

the car I listed about 4 months ago and just got around to parting. 

I'm in the Chicago western suburbs.


Thanks

James


<fontfamily><param>Times</param>70 Auto console lid works with wood
grain great shape. $140


70 Black Door Panels good shape carpet needs replaced. $50


70 Black Dash no cracks.  $75


70 Reg. auto shifter with neutral safety switch & cables. $75


70 Conv. black Rear seats back and bottom.  Needs recovered $75


70 Black Rear side panels with the wood grain. great shape.  $75


70 Blk Rear arm rests and piston cover panel.  good shape one tear but
hidden by seat $75


70 Top motor works $95


70 Top pistons worked when last used. $75 pair


70 Stainless trim for windshield top outside, no dings will polish up
great $100 (the one everyone wants)


70 Stainless trim for windshield side outside, no dings will polish up
great $50 


Black steel windshield top trim inside. $40


Black soft windshield side trim inside good shape no cracks. $40


Windshield rust free sheet metal frame, cut off $100 obo


70 Blk. Top complete w/glass rear window one 1/4:" tear, some padding
on the inside torn.

	works great no rust, header bow perfect. Sell as a complete unit.
$350 obo


70 Stainless 2 piece rear Top Well trim, no dings great shape. $150


70 Top switch works $50


70 AM/FM radio with amp.  unknown if works $150


70 Core support no rust great shape! $150


70 Rear Bumper some rust no holes great core $75


70 Cutlass tail lights no cracks with stainless trim. All 4 $75


Sunvisor arms Conv. only part $45


Conv. Frame one small spot has a hole ???


12 Bolt rear end, unkown ratio. $100


Ask if you need anything else off this car before it goes to the
crusher.</fontfamily>
- --Apple-Mail-5-605450519--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:27:46 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Convertible parts for sale!!

Is the rear end a posi?
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Aiello" <ilo@kwom.com>
To: "oldsmobile-digest" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 10:12 AM
Subject: 1970 Cutlass Convertible parts for sale!!


> List I'm parting a Cutlass conv. below is a list of parts that I have 
> pulled off
> the car and I'm ready to sell. The prices are ballpark so make offers. 
> This is
> the car I listed about 4 months ago and just got around to parting.
> I'm in the Chicago western suburbs.
> 
> Thanks
> James
> 
> 70 Auto console lid works with wood grain great shape. $140
> 
> 70 Black Door Panels good shape carpet needs replaced. $50
> 
> 70 Black Dash no cracks.  $75
> 
> 70 Reg. auto shifter with neutral safety switch & cables. $75
> 
> 70 Conv. black Rear seats back and bottom.  Needs recovered $75
> 
> 70 Black Rear side panels with the wood grain. great shape.  $75
> 
> 70 Blk Rear arm rests and piston cover panel.  good shape one tear but 
> hidden by seat $75
> 
> 70 Top motor works $95
> 
> 70 Top pistons worked when last used. $75 pair
> 
> 70 Stainless trim for windshield top outside, no dings will polish up 
> great $100 (the one everyone wants)
> 
> 70 Stainless trim for windshield side outside, no dings will polish up 
> great $50
> 
> Black steel windshield top trim inside. $40
> 
> Black soft windshield side trim inside good shape no cracks. $40
> 
> Windshield rust free sheet metal frame, cut off $100 obo
> 
> 70 Blk. Top complete w/glass rear window one 1/4:" tear, some padding 
> on the inside torn.
> works great no rust, header bow perfect. Sell as a complete unit. $350 
> obo
> 
> 70 Stainless 2 piece rear Top Well trim, no dings great shape. $150
> 
> 70 Top switch works $50
> 
> 70 AM/FM radio with amp.  unknown if works $150
> 
> 70 Core support no rust great shape! $150
> 
> 70 Rear Bumper some rust no holes great core $75
> 
> 70 Cutlass tail lights no cracks with stainless trim. All 4 $75
> 
> Sunvisor arms Conv. only part $45
> 
> Conv. Frame one small spot has a hole ???
> 
> 12 Bolt rear end, unkown ratio. $100
> 
> Ask if you need anything else off this car before it goes to the 
> crusher.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 15:32:16 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: "kissed" by another car

>How about polishing compound? I believe it's less abrasive than rubbing
>compound.

Yes, for a couple of bucks at Wal-Mart you should be able to find DuPont No. 
9 polishing compound (or similar), which is a white paste that comes in a 
green plastic container, and right next to it you'll find rubbing compound, 
which is a more coarse, reddish abrasive paste in a red container.

Save the rubbing compound for really nasty, deep scrapes; you should find 
that patient use of the polishing compound, rubbing in the direction of the 
scratches or scuffs in the paint, may polish the marks completely off. 
Follow up with paste wax afterwards.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:36:12 -0500
From: "Mike Stilwell" <Fleetsuper@msn.com>
Subject: Re: "kissed" by another car

If its not bad, try Maguire's "Fine Cut Cleaner", it used to be #3, but I
think they dropped the number now.  This is safe to use on brand new, like
not even cured paint, to take out imperfections.

I removed some light cat paw prints from the hood of a Buick I painted.

Mike Stilwell  OCA #13273
President - Capitol City Rockets
http://www.bigmikes442.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 15:47:55 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: "kissed" by another car

>Yes, for a couple of bucks at Wal-Mart you should be able to find DuPont 
>No. 9 polishing compound (or similar), which is a white paste that comes in 
>a green plastic container, and right next to it you'll find rubbing 
>compound, which is a more coarse, reddish abrasive paste in a red 
>container.

Whoops...

One of the advantages of getting married (and you may want to write this 
down) is to have a spouse at home that you can send into the garage (current 
outside temperature: -3ºF) to doublecheck what the labels on the cans are. 
It's not DuPont after all (although I think they have similar stuff); the 
cans I was describing are Turtle Wax brand. They may also have been 
repackaged now into white plastic tubs, but may still keep the green and red 
labeling to distinguish polishing compound from rubbing compound.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Have fun customizing MSN Messenger — learn how here!  
http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 11:21:42 -0800
From: "John Holt sr" <johnlholtsr@hotmail.com>
Subject: 64 Olds Super88, looking for Olds advice. Keep 394 engine or swap it out...

<html><div style='background-color:'><P>Hello, I&nbsp;just became the 2nd owner of a 64 super88 4dr (95000 miles)&nbsp;with a 330 horse 394 cubic inch engine. I am looking for your advice on whether to keep it or should I replace it with a newer olds engine such as a 455. Can you give me your opinion please?&nbsp;How difficult would it be to swap out the 394 for a 455? Thanks for your input.</P>
<P><BR><BR>&nbsp;</P>
<DIV><STRONG><U>John</U></STRONG></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access — limited time only! <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMAENUS/2728??PS=">Get dial-up Internet access now with our best offer: 6 months @$9.95/month! </a> </html>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 16:02:11 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: "kissed" by another car

- -------------------------------1073422931
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In a message dated 1/6/2004 12:13:21 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
email@johnnasta.com writes:
How about polishing compound? I believe it's less abrasive than rubbing
compound.
Try a small amount of Blue Magic added to a dab of liquid car wax. It takes 
the edge off the scratch and makes it much less noticeable.

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUTF-8 http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1276" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 1/6/2004 12:13:21 AM Eastern Standard Time, email@jo=
hnnasta.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>How about polishing compound? I believe it's l=
ess abrasive than rubbing<BR>compound.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>Try a small amount of Blue Magic added to a dab of liquid car wax. It t=
akes the edge off the scratch and makes it much less noticeable.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190=
 SL Conv.<BR>92 Eldo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1073422931--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 16:40:08 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: I  made the  big time 

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Greetings all!

Looks like I made the big time again!

MOTHERS=AE: Cool Cars

Look under customers cars for Jan 2004

Vinny

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Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type charset=3DUTF-8 content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Greetings all!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Looks like I made the big time again!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"http://www.mothers.com/coolcars/coolcars.html">MOTHERS=AE: C=
ool Cars</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Look under customers cars for Jan 2004</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1073425208--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:48:06 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: I  made the  big time 

Congrats to you!!!!!! I would be proud and want to tell everybody I know!
WHHHHHOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOO! SORRY I GOT EXCITED FOR YOU :-)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <HURSTOLDZ@aol.com>
To: <442@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 4:40 PM
Subject: I made the big time


Greetings all!

Looks like I made the big time again!

MOTHERS®: Cool Cars

Look under customers cars for Jan 2004

Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:53:29 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: I  made the  big time 

I added your car to my screen saver of pictures!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <HURSTOLDZ@aol.com>
To: <442@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 4:40 PM
Subject: I made the big time


Greetings all!

Looks like I made the big time again!

MOTHERS®: Cool Cars

Look under customers cars for Jan 2004

Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:58:52 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: I  made the  big time 

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lol

Thank you

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type charset=3DUTF-8 content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>lol</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thank you</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1073429932--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 16:06:51 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 64 Olds Super88, looking for Olds advice. Keep 394 engine or swap it out...

John,

> Hello, I just became the 2nd owner of a 64 super88 4dr (95000 miles) with
a 330 horse 394 cubic inch engine. I am looking for your advice on whether
to keep it or should I replace it with a newer olds engine such as a 455.
Can you give me your opinion please? How difficult would it be to swap out
the 394 for a 455?


An engine swap from a first generation 394 Olds engine to a second
generation 455 Olds engine is very difficult. Also, the transmission needs
to be swapped too.

The 394 mounts off the front timing cover, where the engine crossmember in
the engine compartment runs directly under the front of the engine, and two
side mounts located at the engine rear extended bellhousing, which also
carries the transmission. A 455 mounts off of the side of the block at the
center, where the engine crossmember runs under the center of the engine in
the engine compartment, with a transmission mount under the tailhousing of
the transmission and a central frame crossmember. The bellhousing bolt
pattern is different and the rear crank flange is different between first
and second generation Olds engines, so the transmissions, torque converters,
and flexplates/flywheels won't interchange.

To install a second generation Olds engine in your car would require the
construction and modification of all of these items. It would be much better
to keep your 394 and rebuild the engine and transmission, if necessary. The
394 is one of the best first generation engines ever made by any automotive
manufacturer. I'd keep the 394. My first car was a '59 98 4-door. She was an
excellent sleeper. With her much modified 394/418 and 4-speed Hydro-Stick
automatic transmission, she ran away and hid from a '68 Plymouth Fury 426
Street-Hemi. He was completely shutdown. 394s will work very well.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 23:22:35 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?

At 09:11 PM 1/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Also, the surface tension of silicone grease to very agressive. 
>It doesn't want to wipe off. That's very evident when it gets 
>on your hands and you wipe and wipe with a rag, and a thin film 
>is still there. It takes very aggressive soap to remove it.

Try almost any solvent that doesn't leave an oily residue (WD40 and PB
Blaster, for example, aren't very good at this). I use ordinary rubbing
alky, usually have a cupla bottles of 91%-purity hanging around here. Takes
it off pretty well, even drying silicone rubber.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 23:15:34 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

At 08:04 PM 1/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Sorry, but I was taught differently 40 years ago. That's the way everyone I
>ever knew did it since.
>
>Then, we have the '65 Olds Shop Manual, on page 11-7, that says, left front,
>right front, left rear, right rear, in that order. That's different yet. So
>what are you going to do? If you're using a pressure bleeder tank running at
>60 psi, it's all a moot point, because it no longer matters. The constant
>high pressure eliminates the variables.

With the dual master cylinders, shouldn't matter whether you do front or
rear first. In the olden days of single chamber MC, it did.

I was always taught to do it longest line first, shortest last. Always
worked for me.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:11:38 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Spark plug wires

I am looking for a source for correct spark plug wires for our '67 Supreme 
convert and '72 442.  I need BLACK wires with correct angled ends at the 
distributor cap for each car.  Any ideas??

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 18:26:13 -0600
From: dkveuro@juno.com
Subject: Re: Brake bleeding

Okay everyone......Check this site and see if you agree with his take on
brake systems..
Thought you'd all be very interested in what he has to say.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical/

Personally, after 40 years or more wrenching for a living (some livin' !)
I found some of his comments and observations a little different than my
own.
Post yours after you read the FAQ and TECH page.
Later, dk.
_________________________________________________________________________
____

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 23:15:34 +0000 Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
writes:
> At 08:04 PM 1/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >Sorry, but I was taught differently 40 years ago. That's the way 
> everyone I
> >ever knew did it since.
> >
> >Then, we have the '65 Olds Shop Manual, on page 11-7, that says, 
> left front,
> >right front, left rear, right rear, in that order. That's different 
> yet. So
> >what are you going to do? If you're using a pressure bleeder tank 
> running at
> >60 psi, it's all a moot point, because it no longer matters. The 
> constant
> >high pressure eliminates the variables.
> 
> With the dual master cylinders, shouldn't matter whether you do 
> front or
> rear first. In the olden days of single chamber MC, it did.
> 
> I was always taught to do it longest line first, shortest last. 
> Always
> worked for me.
> 
> SteveH
> 
> 
> 





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www.trueteam.com/benefits.php?pageid=dkasiya

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Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:26:54 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: I  made the  big time 

Looks good Vinny.  Details on the 510 cid ??

M

At 04:40 PM 1/6/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings all!
>
>Looks like I made the big time again!
>
><http://www.mothers.com/coolcars/coolcars.html>MOTHERS®: Cool Cars
>
>Look under customers cars for Jan 2004
>
>Vinny

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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 19:42:05 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: I  made the  big time 

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Hey Mark,

I bought the car off Karl Brandt in Rock Falls, IL. in 1996.   He builds 
performance engines and he did the work.    it is a 455 bored .125 over,  also it 
has been stroked and uses 455 Pontiac  rods that had to be ground down as did 
block casting.  I believe (if my mind is working today)  he used 502 BBC 
pistons and plymouth wrist pins.  It is a 9:1  and  is running a comp cams 515/515 
@240 advertised.    Stock intake with a holley 850 double pumper, 69-72  W30 
exhaust manifolds.    Heads have been worked and ported 1 D casting, 1 
"mystery" casting.

It is coming out soon,  Karl Sup is helping me blueprint a 455  to drop in 
her.

I hope this was of help 

Vinny
64 442   STILL FOR SALE!!!!!
68 H/O

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type charset=3DUTF-8 content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Hey Mark,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I bought the car off Karl Brandt in Rock Falls, IL. in 1996.&nbsp;&nbsp=
; He builds performance engines and he did the work.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; it is=
 a 455 bored .125 over,&nbsp; also it has been stroked and uses 455 Pontiac&=
nbsp; rods that had to be ground down as did block casting.&nbsp; I believe=20=
(if my mind is working today)&nbsp; he used 502 BBC pistons and plymouth wri=
st pins.&nbsp; It is a 9:1&nbsp; and&nbsp; is running a comp cams 515/515 @2=
40 advertised.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Stock intake with a holley 850 double pumpe=
r, 69-72&nbsp; W30 exhaust manifolds.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Heads have been work=
ed and ported&nbsp;1 D casting, 1 "mystery" casting.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>It is coming out soon,&nbsp; Karl Sup is helping me blueprint a 455&nbs=
p; to drop in her.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I hope this was of help </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV>
<DIV>64 442&nbsp;&nbsp; STILL FOR SALE!!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>68 H/O</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 20:40:13 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 64 Olds Super88, looking for Olds advice. Keep 394 engine or swap it out...

At 04:06 PM 1/6/04 -0700, you wrote:
>The 394 mounts off the front timing cover, where the engine crossmember in
>the engine compartment runs directly under the front of the engine, and two
>side mounts located at the engine rear extended bellhousing, which also
>carries the transmission. A 455 mounts off of the side of the block at the
>center,

Milton has pretty much covered the drawbacks; I just wanted to make one 
qualification. A Toronado uses a single front engine-mount that is 
integrated into the timing-cover, which would cut down on at least one 
point of fabrication if you were to go that route. A motor-plate might 
bring you toward the solution for the rear mounts. The tranny remains a 
problem.

________________________________________
Bob Barry           mailto://rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer

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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 19:51:56 -0600
From: "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Spark Plug Wires

If your looking for new exact original reproductions date coded etc.  Try
lectriclimited.com .  Can order online, shipping free and maybe no tax to
Az.  Have compete line of electrical parts for restorations. Found out on
this list.

Dan
70 W31 4-speed
71 442

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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 22:01:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Brake bleeding

> Okay everyone......Check this site and see if you agree with his take on
> brake systems..
> Thought you'd all be very interested in what he has to say.
> http://www.stoptech.com/technical/


There seems to be as many opinions on bleeding brakes as there are
documented sources. Just use a brake bleeder. But that brings up other
points.

>From the website under "Brake Fluid 1A":

"Well yes, but beware of imitations - not all pressure bleeders are created
equal. The professional units (the type you can consider using) separate the
pressurized brake fluid from the pressure source (air) using a flexible
rubber diaphragm. In this fashion, the pressurized air is kept from forcing
its way into the fluid. As we all know, air and fluid should be kept as far
apart as possible."

That's a no brainer. That's the only way any pressurized brake bleeder
should be built, and it must be built to operate at 60 psi.

But there's more that really has my poor brain confused, for this is most
definately ****not**** my experience:

"Ah ha, you say - but what about the much touted Silicone based brake
fluids? They are non hygroscopic and should take care of the reduced boiling
point and corrosion problems. True! That's the good news. Unfortunately the
silicone based fluids for reasons which I do not understand are compressible
themselves so they produce a soft pedal all by themselves. For the person
who doesn't use his or her brakes hard and who doesn't care about precise
modulation silicone fluids may well be the answer - but not for anyone
reading this."

Oh? That's news to me!
And:

"We won't even discuss DOT 5 fluids as they are completely unacceptable to
the high-performance enthusiast, but we'll include them in the following
table for completeness."

Huh? What planet are these guys from?
And:

"So why is silicone-based DOT 5 fluid more compressible than other fluids?

"On their own, silicone-based DOT 5 fluids are entirely different animals
than DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. In addition to having characteristically higher
dry and wet boiling points, they also tend to have much, much lower
viscosities. In other words, they flow more easily relative to temperature.

"One side effect of this chemistry is that there is more "room" for air to
fit in-between the individual molecules of brake fluid than in DOT 3 or DOT
4 fluids. Note that we are not talking about big bubbles of air here which
are visible to the naked eye, but rather microscopic amounts of air which
are finely dispersed (entrained) in the brake fluid matrix.

"Now, all fluids have a certain amount of compressibility to start with, but
adding even the smallest amount of air into the solution can dramatically
increase the amount of elasticity in the system. In the case of
silicone-based fluids, air is quite happy to take up residence between the
brake fluid molecules, and as a result the fluid compressibility goes down.
This is felt at your foot like stepping on a big spring. As you can imagine,
more air = more spring."

Well, I guess I must have had a stroke. I must be living in a total fantasy
world. I'm completely delusional.

I've been using Harley-Davidson DOT 5 Blue Silicone Brake Fluid in Thunder
Lizard's *manual* Hurst-Airheart 4-wheel aluminum disc brakes for over 20
years. That silicone brake fluid works perfectly, does ****not**** have a
soft brake pedal, the brakes feel like they're power assisted, and she stops
on a dime and gives change. I researched silicone brake fluid for quite some
time before I switched to it. I wasn't about to put anything in her that
might even remotely lead to a failure and damage to her. I have no clue
where these guys are coming from. And yes, Thunder *does* get driven a
little harder than you might think. Her brakes are perfectly balanced to
just barely allow the tires to pull through on full brake apply at very high
speed. That's to purposely prevent brake lockup and tire slide. I can
maintain complete directional control. That is a lot of clamping force,
friction generation, and heat generation. I have *no* problem with
Harley-Davidson's silicone brake fluid, and I think Thunder does meet the
"high performance" definition.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 21:31:01 -0800
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: 455 HEI Tidbit

All
Checking in from the slightly rainy left coast with an HEI tidbit.

For a long time I've been happily running HEI's in both my 66's big Oldses. 

Not too long ago my freshly rebuilt (<3000 miles) 455 developed an
intermittent miss that I couldn't figure out -- I'd dropped in a good
rebuilt HEI & wires in 1998 (maybe 20,000 miles ago) and did cap & rotor in
March of '02. 

Hmm.

So I'm at the parts store telling this story and the good counterman Dave
suggests I replace the condenser. He says back in 1980, he spent 6 months
adjusting and troble shooting an HEI and eventually traced it to this fairly
cheap part.  Condensers burn out?

Took a phillips and a 1/4 nut driver and about 10 minutes to replace the
part. 

Seems to have solved the intermittent miss.  If you have one with an HEI and
it ain't cap, rotor, plugs or wires, here's a suggested fix.

Cheers,
cf

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Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 06:01:02 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: 455 HEI Tidbit

At 09:31 PM 1/6/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>So I'm at the parts store telling this story and the good counterman 
>Dave suggests I replace the condenser. He says back in 1980, he spent 
>6 months adjusting and troble shooting an HEI and eventually traced 
>it to this fairly cheap part.  Condensers burn out?

Ask John Pajak. Cupla years ago, his W30 started missing then eventually
stopped dead on the way home from a show. After quite a bit of hemming and
hawwing and consultation with the denizens of RocketTalk, he eventually
changed the condenser and PRESTO... fired right up. I believe he also had
HEI but it doesn't matter; the condenser does, indeed, go bad. They used to
come in any new points kit.

SteveH

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4733
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