
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 29 2003      Volume 01 : Number 4724



Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info 
Re: Custom timing curves vs. MAP (was Re: new to list)
headlight retainer
Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info
Re: headlight retainer
RE: headlight retainer
Re: headlight retainer
Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info
RE: A complaint about an MSD Digital 6
Re: Quarter Glass
Re: Quarter Glass
Re: 63 olds
Re: FAQ corrections- W31
Re: 63 olds
Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes 
Re: Olds 403 running temperature
Re: Quarter Glass
Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info
Re: Cam Question
Olds Mailing List Archive #4600 now available
B-body spindle UCAs (was Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes )
Re: B-body spindle UCAs (was Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes )
2nd try for SSII wheel paint
chrome shop
Re: Michigan cruise (was - FAQ corrections- W31)
8.5" rear ID
Re: Michigan cruise 
Re: Michigan cruise (was - FAQ corrections- W31)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 20:55:24 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info 

On Dec 26, 2003, at 6:29 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 16:10:26 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info
>
> Steve H,
>
>> This is one of the differences between Olds and Ch*bby (and probably
>> extends to Olds/B*ick, and Ch*bby/Poncho): Olds wires the trunk 
>> release
>> button so the ignition must be on...
>> Same applies to the underhood light: in an Olds, the
>> ignition must be on...(...I bet the undertrunk lamps are
>> also wired this way).
>> I forget where I saw it, maybe a Toronado: one model vehicle doesn't 
>> even
>> turn on the floor courtesy lamps without the ignition switch being 
>> on...
>
>
> '64-'65 Olds A-bodies don't work that way. **All** lights (except turn
> signals) and the remote trunk lock (but it's vacuum controlled) on the 
> '64
> Cutlass work with the ignition key off. The underhood and trunk lights 
> have
> mercury switches in the base of the bulb sockets.
>
> Milton Schick

Ditto on my '70, except that the electric power trunk is also always-on.


On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Euless, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 03:03:00 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Custom timing curves vs. MAP (was Re: new to list)

At 08:21 PM 12/28/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>>The tops of the injectors have to be parallel or you'll need 
>>funky fuel rails.
>
>Still not seeing the problem. Why would they be non-parallel? The 
>injectors go close to the head where the runners are all at the same 
>level.

Here, look at the angle of the roof at the end of the runners of any of
these intakes:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/OldsSBIntMani.htm

The injectors in each runner's roof must be at the same level and the same
angle, so the fuel rails can be screwed to each injector. You *might* be
able to accomplish this by milling the area where the injectors will mount.
There will probably also be different amounts of turbulence due to some
runners dropping down then coming up (cylinders 2, 8, 5 and 7) while others
run almost straight in to the head ports. It'll probly work, and maybe work
pretty well for a low-rpm street engine, but probly won't provide very even
air control to the two sets of four cylinders at high rpm. A single-plane
at least doesn't have that dip in half of the runners, which tends to
lengthen those four runners, causing a delay in air control by the throttle
body compared to the shorter runners.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 19:11:34 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: headlight retainer

One of my headlight retainers has come apart at the spot weld. Can these be re-welded or will I have to buy a
replacement?

Kevin :o)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 21:17:23 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info

On Dec 27, 2003, at 8:21 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 04:07:11 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info
>
> At 10:22 PM 12/26/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>>> Olds wires the trunk release button so the ignition must be on,
>>> whereas Ch*bby wires it to constant battery power (through a
>>> fuse, of course). I've no clear, coherent idea why they'd do this.
>>
>> Theft.  You have to have the keys to get in the trunk.

Er, that would be why the trunk button is in the glove box. Lock the 
glove box.

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Euless, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:21:28 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: headlight retainer

  the retainer could be respot welded, but should still be able to be found in help board with motor
mite products or  go to there web sight
  www.motormite.com or a salvage yard
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 10:11 PM
  Subject: headlight retainer


  > One of my headlight retainers has come apart at the spot weld. Can these be re-welded or will I
have to buy a
  > replacement?
  >
  > Kevin :o)
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:31:35 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: headlight retainer

Last time I checked, original GM rings were still available.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of ron fama
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 10:21 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: headlight retainer


  the retainer could be respot welded, but should still be able to be found
in help board with motor
mite products or  go to there web sight
  www.motormite.com or a salvage yard
  ron
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 10:11 PM
  Subject: headlight retainer


  > One of my headlight retainers has come apart at the spot weld. Can these
be re-welded or will I
have to buy a
  > replacement?
  >
  > Kevin :o)
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 03:34:21 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: headlight retainer

At 07:11 PM 12/28/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>One of my headlight retainers has come apart at the spot weld. Can these 
>be re-welded or will I have to buy a replacement?

Unfortunately, they're usually stainless steel, or you could just solder
them back together. A REALLY good MIG/TIG welder at a shop may be able to
repair it.

What I did in the olden days was drill a small hole through both ends and
use a short screw/lockwasher/nut to hold the ends together. There's a fair
amount of tension due to the springs holding the ring against the headlight
so the hole has to leave as much material around it as possible. I used
stainless hardware so it wouldn't rust and leave a streak over the
headlight, etc.. Drilling a hole in that thin metal isn't fun and you have
to be VERY careful as the drill bit will catch as it punches through,
ripping the SHARP ring right outta yer hands. So WEAR GLOVES, eh... and go
slow and easy. Start with a SMALL drill bit. Once you punch through, you
may want to stop drilling right there and enlarge the hole with a small
ratfile. If you try to enlarge the hole with a larger bit, it is highly
likely to catch and rip the ring outta yer hands, possibly tearing the hole
wide open  ;o((((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 03:37:44 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info

At 09:17 PM 12/28/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>>> Theft.  You have to have the keys to get in the trunk.
>
>Er, that would be why the trunk button is in the glove box. Lock the 
>glove box.

Heh... entirely true. But when's the last time any of us ever thought to
lock our glove box, except in a misguided attempt to hide our wallet in
there while out at the beach  ;o\

And besides, most glove boxes can be ripped down and out...

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:15:41 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: A complaint about an MSD Digital 6

I could swear that there's supposed to be a wire that only lets that 
feature kick in when the starter is engaged. Somebody else on this or 
another list had a similar problem, and that was the case.

krw
On Dec 26, 2003, at 6:29 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 12:51:31 -0500
> From: "Christian Sager" <chris.sager@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: A complaint about an MSD Digital 6
>
> My engine won't come close to idling at 500rpm either.  The trouble is
> under high load (heavy braking, sharp turning, alternator, electric
> fans) and driving around parking lots or stopping at lights the engine
> will struggle for a second mostly due to the lumpy cam in the engine
> (runs like junk at idle).  The rpms drop into the 500-600 rpm range
> before the carb has the time to adjust and bring the revs back up.  If
> the engine reaches the 500rpm point the msd takes 20 degrees of timing
> out instantly, which promptly stalls the motor.  (leaves the motor with
> no advance at all - 2 degree total retard in fact)  Without the start
> retard on the motor hits that same rpm point under heavy braking but
> will not stall and corrects back to the 800-900 idle speed.
>
> Christian
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Euless, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:27:25 -0600
From: "Tim Wagor" <twagor@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Quarter Glass

> Do you need quarter glass for a hardtop or for a Convertible?
I need the ones for a convertible. I saw some on e-bay a while back but I
missed out on them.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 00:15:43 -0500
From: "Dan Roethel" <droethel@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter Glass

  I saw some on e-bay a while back but I missed out on them.
Keep watching the Evilbay site, they come up every now and then.Don't forget
to use a broad search ie. quarter glass, remember other A-body glass will
fit. I purchased mine from a seller called epartsdesk, try contacting them
they may have more.
Good luck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:19:55 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: 63 olds

Does it do it under load, like when you go uphill? Or is it independent 
from throttle position? If it is independant from the throttle position, 
likely a lifter is 'sticky'. MMO is the way to go. Be patient. You have to 
give it a thousand miles to see an effect. If you still have it. Buy a new 
stet of lifters, pull the intake and get it over with.

George

At 04:54 PM 12/28/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>My 63 Olds (394 4 barrel carb) starts right up, and idles smoothly, with 
>no tapping noise.  I'll travel about 3 miles at about 45-50 miles per hour 
>on the highway, when I'll hear a tapping noise from engine (sounds like a 
>lifter??).  I'll continue for about another 2-3 miles and the noise goes 
>away and the engine is fine.  It doesn't lose power and it doesn't run 
>rough.  If I stop the car and let it idle, the noise will also go away 
>after a little while. The noise doesn't return.  It seems to happen only 
>when the car is warming up (2-4 miles into trip). I've added a half a pint 
>of Marvel Myster Oil last week, but I still have the same problem.  I 
>changed the oil three months ago, adding Castrol 10-40 and have only 
>traveled about 100 miles since then.  Any suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:27:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: FAQ corrections- W31

> Shop manual         Diameter             2.000 "             1.625 "
> Sales Spec sheet    Diameter  (Max)      2.005 "             1.630 "
> AMA Specifications  Diameter             2.000/1.990       1.629/1.619(I'm
> not sure but I assume the second number was a min)


That's a typical +/- 0.005" specification.


> Shop manual         Valve Material       Non Aluminized   Non Aluminized
> for W31 350 only, all other 350's used aluminized valves,
> however, this differs from AMA Specs
> AMA Specification   Valve Material       SAE 1047           ARMCO 21-2
Steel
>
> (I had heard that the 70 W 30 and W31 used a special steel alloy for the
> valves, but I don't know for sure.  Others more knowledgeable (Milton,
> engine rebuilders, etc., may comment further)


No special steel alloys. In that time period, all valves for passenger car
engines were made of the same alloy, which is actually a heat treated mild
steel.


> What about the seats?  I
> continue to use a lead additive in my 1970 W 31 assuming hardened valves
and
> seats were not used in any 70 Oldsmobile.


Good, since they're typical soft iron seats. Hardened seats didn't appear
until much later. The Arab oil crunch didn't occur until '73, during the
Isreali Yom Kipper War.


> Also the shop manual says the W31, 442's, W33 and W34 used dampers in the
> springs.  This would suggest that the #6 heads for the W31 had other
> differences from the standard #6 350 head.  I don't know whether this is
> significant or not.


It's not. Internal wound flat wire spring dampers inside a valve spring are
used to dampen out spring osilations at high RPM, which could cause spring
bounce leading to valve float. Any engine can use them.

Incidentally, Comp Cams recently came out with high performance "bee-hive"
valve springs to allow high RPM without spring dampeners. A bee-hive valve
spring will cancel out spring harmonics and osilations by its design and
will decrease spring weight on the valve, giving a little more RPM capabilit
y.

Whats real funny about this is that all 394 first gen Olds engines used
bee-hive valve springs as stock equipment. It's not new.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:44:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 63 olds

It's probably a weak spring inside the lifter, or even a little bit of dirt
floating around inside the engine, or both. Admittedly, I'm not there to
hear it, but I'd believe it's just a normal Olds lifter noise on an engine
with a bunch of miles of it.

If you really want to hear lifters, you should hear the ones in our '65 F-85
330. Now that's a symphony, until the engine warms up, then it's a soft
serenade.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Kato111@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 2:54 PM
Subject: 63 olds


> My 63 Olds (394 4 barrel carb) starts right up, and idles smoothly, with
no
> tapping noise.  I'll travel about 3 miles at about 45-50 miles per hour on
the
> highway, when I'll hear a tapping noise from engine (sounds like a
lifter??).
> I'll continue for about another 2-3 miles and the noise goes away and the
> engine is fine.  It doesn't lose power and it doesn't run rough.  If I
stop the
> car and let it idle, the noise will also go away after a little while. The
> noise doesn't return.  It seems to happen only when the car is warming up
(2-4
> miles into trip). I've added a half a pint of Marvel Myster Oil last week,
but I
> still have the same problem.  I changed the oil three months ago, adding
> Castrol 10-40 and have only traveled about 100 miles since then.  Any
suggestions?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 05:42:54 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes 

On Dec 28, 2003, at 8:39 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 02:21:39 -0500
> From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes
>
> Hold the phone! Custom control arms from UB Machine are only $48 
> apiece!
> Several G-body people have used them with good results and several 
> thousand
> miles. But anyway, on an A-body, one can use offset cross-shafts and 
> 1/2" -
> 3/4" of shims to get the correct alignment on the _STOCK_ control arms.
> http://home.earthlink.net/~cjcarri/brkswap/brkswap.htm

Which puts the control arms too close to the exhaust manifolds, never 
mind headers. Looks like the kludge it is, too.
What is this UB Machine that you speak of?

Also, if anyone wants a entire car to go with Ali's frame, I have a 
nice solid '71 S, minus engine and trans for sale, needs love and 
understanding. It's too solid to part out, but I will come spring if 
someone doesn't claim it. Or I'll trade for a 70-72 Sports Coupe (post) 
body.

krw
> Chris
> - ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Because of the $300 for custom upper control arms? + Custom machine 
>> work
>> on the lower ball Joints, new tie rods to match the B- body spindle
>> taper etc.......
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright
Euless, TX

krwright@sbcgloabl.net
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:02:04 +0200
From: Hannu Pyssysalo <hannu.pyssysalo@koti.soon.fi>
Subject: Re: Olds 403 running temperature

On Thursday 25 December 2003 03:22 EET, King V wrote:
> At 08:48 AM 12/24/2003 -0500, Christian wrote:
> >I have an electric fan conversion done on my 403 and was wondering what
> >temp you guys think the fans should come on at.  I have a 185 degree
> >thermostat in it and a 190 degree sensor for the fans.  It seems like
> >the stupid things are on constantly.
>
> The two temperatures are too close.  The t-stat will not open until 185, so
> you're looking at only a 5-degree margin assuming everything is perfect to
> 1-degree accuracy.
>
> I'd say the fans shouldn't come on until about 200 or thereabouts.
>
>
> 	- Joe Vahabzadeh

The radiator fan thermostat is in a wrong place.  It should sit in the water 
stream flowing from the radiator to the engine.  It is usually assembled in 
the "cool" chamber of the radiator by the factory.   I.e. the passenger side 
or bottom chamber in US GM cars.

The water flowing from the radiator to the engine is much cooler than the 
engine thermostat opening temperature.  The radiator fan should start when 
the radiator is supplying too hot (over 50C / 120F) water to the engine, and 
the engine thermostat should open when the engine is heating the water too 
much.

- -- 
Hannu Pyssysalo
President, Oldsmobile Club of Finland
1965 Jetstar 88 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:25:02 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Quarter Glass

- --part1_173.23bf9b82.2d21852e_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 12/28/03 8:41:32 PM Central Standard Time,twagor@cox.net
 writes:

> Anyone have any leads on a good pair of tinted quarter glass for a '71 or
'72 cutlass ?

Tim,
      I believe that I have a set of convertible quarter glass, tinted, as 
well as a set of hardtop glass too.  Also have a good back glass for a hardtop 
if anyone needs one.  Email me privately if interested.
Thanks,
Steve D





- --part1_173.23bf9b82.2d21852e_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 12/28/03 8:41:32=
 PM Central Standard Time,twagor@cox.net<BR>
 writes:<BR>
<BR>
&gt; Anyone have any leads on a good pair of tinted quarter glass for a '71=20=
or<BR>
'72 cutlass ?<BR>
<BR>
Tim,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I believe that I have a set of convertible qu=
arter glass, tinted, as well as a set of hardtop glass too.&nbsp; Also have=20=
a good back glass for a hardtop if anyone needs one.&nbsp; Email me privatel=
y if interested.<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
Steve D<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
- --part1_173.23bf9b82.2d21852e_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 07:56:13 -0600
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 "Trunk Pop" info

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> Er, that would be why the trunk button is in the glove
> box. Lock the glove box.

Believe it or not, I never, ever thought about locking the
glove box to keep people from popping the trunk. Never.

Boy, do I feel stupid.


- --Branson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 07:44:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Geo <geogeethree@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Question

The only issue of Musclecar Power (2003) used that cam
in a '71 W30 455 with low compression (7.7:1 ?!?!), 2
1/2" exhaust and 3.73 rear and it ran the 1/4 mile in
13.7sec. at 102mph shifting at just 4500rpm.

Geo
'72 442
Digest Mode


> Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 20:27:48 -0500
> From: "Marty McLeod" <marty.regena@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Cam Question
> 
> Anyone ever use Mondello's JM 18-20 cam in there
> 455?  If so, give the good
> and the bad of it.  Thanks everyone.
> 
> Marty McLeod
> 69 Cutlass S Convertible 455
> 
> ------------------------------


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:08:22 -0600
From: Jeff.Easton@abbott.com
Subject: Olds Mailing List Archive #4600 now available

I took some time over the holidays to do a little catching up on the archives.
The Archives for the Olds Mailing List, Digests #4300 thru #4699 are now
available on my web site.  http://www.calcon.net/~easton


- -Jeff
Jeff Easton
Grayslake, ILL
1970  442  4-Speed
see the Olds archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:20:25 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: B-body spindle UCAs (was Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes )

UB Machine is a company that makes custom a-arms for circle track racers and
the like. Their website is: http://www.ubmachine.com
This is a thread on ROP about it:
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1731&highlight=upper+con
trol+arms

And finally, because I know you're gonna say that they're weak and will snap
under the weight of a car, here's a well-known G-body suspension guru who
uses them: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Upper_arm_page.htm
(Also note that the upper A-arm hardly holds any weight, the lower arm does)

They probably don't have the A-body parts on the shelf, but more likely than
not they know the dimensions
$48 each, incl. inner shaft
$16 two Chrsyler(huge heavy-duty screw in) ball joints
$15 reaming the B-body spindles to fit ball joints
- -----
$143 total, complete. (This includes another tube welded in the center for
bump stop mounting, like the GW arms)
as opposed to $479 for the GW arms.
What's the better deal?
 - is anyone interested in buying a pair?

Chris
- ----- Original Message -----
> Which puts the control arms too close to the exhaust manifolds, never
> mind headers. Looks like the kludge it is, too.
> What is this UB Machine that you speak of?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 12:52:15 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: B-body spindle UCAs (was Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk Brakes )

I believe that anyone wanting to do the B body spindle swap would be well
served using a new upper control arm set from someone like UB Machine, and
there's no way it could interfere with a set of headers. The tubular upper
control arm is extremely strong, much stronger and more rigid than a stock
upper control arm. The reason is the tube construction instead of the heavy
factory stamped steel construction. However, I would completely agree with
the guy on the ROP board. 0.120" wall thickness would be much better on the
street than the standard 0.080" wall thickness for the tubing in the UB
uppers.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 12:20 PM
Subject: B-body spindle UCAs (was Re: 4sale: 71 Cutlass Frame with Disk
Brakes )


> UB Machine is a company that makes custom a-arms for circle track racers
and
> the like. Their website is: http://www.ubmachine.com
> This is a thread on ROP about it:
>
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1731&highlight=upper+con
> trol+arms
>
> And finally, because I know you're gonna say that they're weak and will
snap
> under the weight of a car, here's a well-known G-body suspension guru who
> uses them: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Upper_arm_page.htm
> (Also note that the upper A-arm hardly holds any weight, the lower arm
does)
>
> They probably don't have the A-body parts on the shelf, but more likely
than
> not they know the dimensions
> $48 each, incl. inner shaft
> $16 two Chrsyler(huge heavy-duty screw in) ball joints
> $15 reaming the B-body spindles to fit ball joints
> -----
> $143 total, complete. (This includes another tube welded in the center for
> bump stop mounting, like the GW arms)
> as opposed to $479 for the GW arms.
> What's the better deal?
>  - is anyone interested in buying a pair?
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Which puts the control arms too close to the exhaust manifolds, never
> > mind headers. Looks like the kludge it is, too.
> > What is this UB Machine that you speak of?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 12:55:47 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: 2nd try for SSII wheel paint

- --0-1910468975-1072731347=:61417
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I know this made it to the list before, but I find it very hard to believe only 1 person has restored 68-70 SSII wheels before.
Who has experience with the paint from Supercars, Fusicks or the Dupli Color brand Dan mentioned or something else?  I'm looking for THE correct SSII paint as I will be getting my SSII redone next month and obviously I will need to paint them.  Thanks
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com> wrote:
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 13:16:40 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana 
Subject: SSII wheel paint
To: oldslist 

Greetings all,
I'm wondering who has the correct argent colored wheel paint for 69 and 70 SSII wheels.  I'm not looking for a close alternate, I'm looking for the correct color.  Supercars and Fusick carry the color, so is one considered more correct than the other?  Or is there another company/brand that is more correct?  I had a guy at a local restoration shop show me the argent from The Motor Company, but it looked way to dark.  I will most likely get the rims powdercoated in the black primer first, then spray the argent over it on the face of the rims to duplicate the factory look.
Thanks in advance and happy holidays.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31
1970 F-85
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
and a whole bunch of parts for sale  


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square

- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square
- --0-1910468975-1072731347=:61417
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>I know this made it to the list before, but I find it very hard to believe only 1 person has restored 68-70 SSII wheels before.</DIV>
<DIV>Who has experience with the paint from Supercars, Fusicks or&nbsp;the Dupli Color brand Dan mentioned or something else?&nbsp; I'm looking for THE correct SSII paint as I will be getting my SSII redone next month and obviously I will need to paint them.&nbsp; Thanks</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A><BR><BR><B><I>chris smetana &lt;grp442@yahoo.com&gt;</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 13:16:40 -0800 (PST)<BR>From: chris smetana <GRP442@YAHOO.COM><BR>Subject: SSII wheel paint<BR>To: oldslist <OLDSMOBILE@CHEBUCTO.NS.CA><BR><BR>
<DIV>Greetings all,</DIV>
<DIV>I'm wondering who has the correct argent colored wheel paint for 69 and 70 SSII wheels.&nbsp; I'm not looking for a close alternate, I'm looking for the correct color.&nbsp; Supercars and Fusick carry the color, so&nbsp;is one considered more correct than the other?&nbsp; Or is there another company/brand that is more correct?&nbsp; I had a guy at a local restoration shop show me the argent from The Motor Company, but it looked way to dark.&nbsp; I will most likely get the rims powdercoated in the black primer first, then spray the argent over it on the face of the rims&nbsp;to duplicate the factory look.</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance and happy holidays.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>and a whole bunch of parts for sale&nbsp; </DIV>
<P>
<HR SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<BR>Yahoo! Photos - <A href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=21486/*http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//spsimplenol?.file=ny_ts_splash.html">Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square</A></BLOCKQUOTE><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Yahoo! Photos - <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=21486/*http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//spsimplenol?.file=ny_ts_splash.html">Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square</a>
- --0-1910468975-1072731347=:61417--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 13:37:04 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: chrome shop

- --0-1779844597-1072733824=:65589
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Greetings all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a chrome shop.  I know there is Tri-city plating down in TN, but do they chrome things that aren't bumpers?  I have the OAI lid for my 69 W-31 air cleaner that I need to get rechromed and I'm looking for a shop that does excellent or better work.  And if anyone has a recommendation for a place in the Chicago area so much the better as I can drive there.  Thanks in advance.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31
1970 F-85
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
and a whole mess of parts for sale


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square
- --0-1779844597-1072733824=:65589
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Greetings all,</DIV>
<DIV>I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a chrome shop.&nbsp; I know there is Tri-city plating down in TN, but do they chrome things that aren't bumpers?&nbsp; I have the OAI lid for my 69 W-31 air cleaner that I need&nbsp;to get rechromed and I'm looking for a shop that does excellent or better work.&nbsp; And if anyone has a recommendation for&nbsp;a place&nbsp;in the Chicago area so much the better as I can drive there.&nbsp; Thanks in advance.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>and a whole mess of parts for sale</DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Yahoo! Photos - <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=21486/*http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//spsimplenol?.file=ny_ts_splash.html">Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square</a>
- --0-1779844597-1072733824=:65589--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 18:03:57 -0500
From: Thomas Bejma <tcbracing@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Michigan cruise (was - FAQ corrections- W31)

I'm game.  Where is Delton?

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp. (near Lake St. Clair), MI
69 Cutlass S Convertible


On 12/28/03 4:11 PM, "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net> wrote
 
> Lastly- I hope everyone has an enjoyable and safe holiday season.  I don't
> comment on the list too often, but do follow it almost daily and do
> appreciate the replies that I've received to the questions I've asked.   I'm
> thinking of organizing a Olds cruise and visit to the Gilmore/Kellogg
> Foundation Auto museum near Delton Michigan sometime in 2004. My cousin's
> son runs the day-to-day operations and it is a very nice country museum with
> several barn type buildings filled with antique and classic cars.  Plenty of
> open room for a club or list get-together.  Should be able to get some
> Illinois and Indiana list members to meet the Michigan folks.   My Michigan
> relatives are Johncocks, remember Gorden Johncock, the Indy car driver-same
> family.  If this idea has any merit with he Michigan guys, please let me
> know.  Thanks,
> 
> Dan
> 70 W31 4-speed
> 71 442
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 18:10:11 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: 8.5" rear ID

A junkyard nearby has what he claims to be an 8.5" posi rear out of an 85
442. Trouble is, it's off the car already and I have no way to tell that
it's a G-body rear (as opposed to A- or B-body) other than his word. Can
someone provide me with some measurements or ID numbers or something that
would be a dead giveaway to a G-body rear? I plan on going tomorrow morning
(as this is a KILLER deal if it is what he says it is).

Sorry for the cross-posting from Oldsgmail but it seems that the list isn't
working.
Thanks,
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 18:54:30 -0500
From: "Mike Evans" <mevans@jasnetworks.net>
Subject: Re: Michigan cruise 

Hey,

Count me in for that one...it's five minutes from my house here in SW
Michigan, probably 15 minutes from Kalamazoo (the closest "big" city, right
on I-94).  Their actual mailing address is Hickory Corners, MI, just down
the street from Delton.  The Gilmore website is
http://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/index.cfm .  Dunno where the Kellogg
Foundation association came from. ?

Mike Evans
Richland, MI
'76 Cutlass S/461
www.time-save.com/cutlass.htm

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Bejma" <tcbracing@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: Michigan cruise (was - FAQ corrections- W31)


> I'm game.  Where is Delton?
>
> Tom Bejma
> Harrison Twp. (near Lake St. Clair), MI
> 69 Cutlass S Convertible
>
>
> On 12/28/03 4:11 PM, "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net> wrote
>
> > Lastly- I hope everyone has an enjoyable and safe holiday season.  I
don't
> > comment on the list too often, but do follow it almost daily and do
> > appreciate the replies that I've received to the questions I've asked.
I'm
> > thinking of organizing a Olds cruise and visit to the Gilmore/Kellogg
> > Foundation Auto museum near Delton Michigan sometime in 2004. My
cousin's
> > son runs the day-to-day operations and it is a very nice country museum
with
> > several barn type buildings filled with antique and classic cars.
Plenty of
> > open room for a club or list get-together.  Should be able to get some
> > Illinois and Indiana list members to meet the Michigan folks.   My
Michigan
> > relatives are Johncocks, remember Gorden Johncock, the Indy car
driver-same
> > family.  If this idea has any merit with he Michigan guys, please let me
> > know.  Thanks,
> >
> > Dan
> > 70 W31 4-speed
> > 71 442
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:13:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Hutchison <rkt88403@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Michigan cruise (was - FAQ corrections- W31)

 Count me in. I was in Delton about 10 years ago. I
think by Hastings?

 
> On 12/28/03 4:11 PM, "Dan Bodine"
> <danbodine@prairieinet.net> wrote
>  
> > Lastly- I hope everyone has an enjoyable and safe
> holiday season.  I don't
> > comment on the list too often, but do follow it
> almost daily and do
> > appreciate the replies that I've received to the
> questions I've asked.   I'm
> > thinking of organizing a Olds cruise and visit to
> the Gilmore/Kellogg
> > Foundation Auto museum near Delton Michigan
> sometime in 2004. My cousin's
> > son runs the day-to-day operations and it is a
> very nice country museum with
> > several barn type buildings filled with antique
> and classic cars.  Plenty of
> > open room for a club or list get-together.  Should
> be able to get some
> > Illinois and Indiana list members to meet the
> Michigan folks.   My Michigan
> > relatives are Johncocks, remember Gorden Johncock,
> the Indy car driver-same
> > family.  If this idea has any merit with he
> Michigan guys, please let me
> > know.  Thanks,
> > 
> > Dan
> > 70 W31 4-speed
> > 71 442
> > 
> > 
> 


=====
Bill Hutchison,Lansing,MI.
95 GMC Sierra 1500,95 Prowler 27N travel trailer
81 W-88 Cpe 403/TH350/8.5-3.23 LS
My Olds Club http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/olds889877to85

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4724
*********************************
