
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 22 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4751



Por 15
Re: Por 15
RE: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys
RE: Por 15
Re: Por 15
Re: Por 15
RE: question on newer Olds...
RE: my 69 olds (fwd)
Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys
Re: Por 15
Re: Por 15
72-98 comfortron
Re: Comp Cams Rocker Kit Pushrods
Re: Comp Cams Rocker Kit Pushrods
Re: 72-98 comfortron
Re: 72-98 comfortron
Re: 72-98 comfortron
new parts manufacturer
Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys
RE: Limitations of Caddy/Olds EFI system   was - Re: 455 Fuel Injection?
Re: 72-98 comfortron
Re: Limitations of Caddy/Olds EFI system   was - Re: 455 Fuel Injection?
Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys
Re: new parts manufacturer
Re: Por 15
Re: new parts manufacturer
Re: new parts manufacturer
Re: new parts manufacturer
Re: Por 15
Re: Por 15
Re: Por 15
Re: question on newer Olds...
Re: new parts manufacturer
Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys
64-67 A-body clutch bellcrank frame bracket
Re: Por 15

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:06:29 -0500
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Por 15

Hiya listers,
Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience with Por-15? I 
have a 1973 Lincoln Continental and the top is rusted through pretty 
bad. I am going to use some Por 15 on there along with the little fabric 
stuff they have to fix it. I just was wondering if anyone on the list 
has any experience with it at all. I definately am going to post how it 
goes for me, ill even have photos. I know its not an Olds but I was 
thinking that this may be something that would be good for us to know

paulbunyan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:16:28 -0500
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

Paul,

One thing you could do:  If the headliner is down, or you have access to the
underside of the roof, you can use some duct tape on the inside of the roof
where the holes are.  Then from the outside of the roof, use a tube of por15
patch and smear it over the duct tape that shows through from the inside and
around the edges.  Let it sit two days, pull the duct tape down from the
inside and you should be good to go.

Good luck!
Rob
Free Olds classifieds and Olds car registry at www.allolds.com
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul White" <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Por 15

> Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience with Por-15?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:26:37 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys

> 
> Best buy- FUSICK emblem for deklid of the 1968 442. High quality, not 
> flexible like others' units.
> 
> Anybody got similar nominations?
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911

Best Buy - Anything (and he's got A LOT of stuff) purchased from Chris
Witt.  Excellent communication, fair price, superb packaging and parts
that meet or exceed expectations.  Thanks Chris!

Tom Bejma
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Best buy - As for CW's service and parts - I would completely back Tom
B's opinion.  We're rather lucky to have Mr. Witt as a resource.
Ian Dixon - Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:32:14 -0500
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: Por 15

I was very impressed with how it worked on my Olds.

(see the pictures on my site that I posted earlier
http://homepage.mac.com/tcbracing/PhotoAlbum4.html)

But...

I also read an article in an Auto Restoration magazine
about Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" compared directly
to POR15 and the Eastwood product performed a little
better especially if you might not completely cover
the item.  Eastwood's product performed better at the
edge of the coating.

POR15 is basically a hard rubber type coating.  It
requires a phosphate etching to neutralize the rust and
prepare the metal for the coating.

If you go with POR15 buy the "6 packs" that are tiny
cans of the coating (Once you open a can of POR15 you
basically have to completely use the can).  The little
cans are very convenient.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul White [mailto:oldslist@netscape.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:06 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; bigcarbunyan@netscape.net
> Subject: Por 15
> 
> 
> Hiya listers,
> Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience 
> with Por-15? 

[Snip]
 
> paulbunyan
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:39:33 -0500
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

Thanks,
Sounds like one plan of action. The more ways I have to do it the 
merrier I always say. So have you actually used this stuff before??

paulbunyan

rv@comcast.net wrote:

>Paul,
>
>One thing you could do:  If the headliner is down, or you have access to the
>underside of the roof, you can use some duct tape on the inside of the roof
>where the holes are.  Then from the outside of the roof, use a tube of por15
>patch and smear it over the duct tape that shows through from the inside and
>around the edges.  Let it sit two days, pull the duct tape down from the
>inside and you should be good to go.
>
>Good luck!
>Rob
>Free Olds classifieds and Olds car registry at www.allolds.com
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Paul White" <oldslist@netscape.net>
>Subject: Por 15
>
>  
>
>>Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience with Por-15?
>>    
>>
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 12:08:21 -0500
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

Paul,

Yes, I have used it a million times, its a quick and easy repair.  Just
don't get the stuff on your hands.  The tube costs $10, but it will be
several days before you get it off your hands, if exposed.  If you get it on
your hands, you can use a scrubby and hand soap to scrub it off.  You only
get about 10 minutes from the time of initial exposure to get it off, or its
a tatoo.  My recommendation - double hospital gloves.

It holds up very well, but lets face it, would anything be as good as a
welder and some metal?  No.  If you dont have those items at your resources,
the por15 patch is a nice, inexpensive, easy method.

Rob
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul White" <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15


> Thanks,
> Sounds like one plan of action. The more ways I have to do it the
> merrier I always say. So have you actually used this stuff before??

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:01:30 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: question on newer Olds...

>It is leaking a quart of oil every 400 miles!!  Every time I get gas I
>have to put a quart in it.  It seems to come from somewhere near the top
>of the engine, more on the driver's side, or in the back.  I replaced the
>valve cover gaskets, but that did not solve the problem, so I can't
>figure out where else so much oil could possibly be coming from!  What
>the heck could this leak be from?

In addition to what the others have suggested, you might want to check your 
PCV system to see if it's clogged anywhere. This can allow the crankcase to 
become pressurized, leading to oil getting forced out through all _kinds_ of 
interesting places.

In addition to making sure that your PCV valve is clean and rattling nicely, 
check that the hoses have not collapsed internally.

>The other question is less important...  it has this option on it where
>the power locks lock automatically when you put the car in gear and
>unlock when you turn off the ignition.  Is there any way to disable this
>option??

I think that is programmable; certainly it was by 1996. (Do you have Keyless 
Entry on this car? Do you find RPO code AU0 on the option code list sticker 
that's either on your glovebox lid or in the trunk?)

On the slightly older models like the '94s, it may have been done by adding 
or removing a certain fuse in the fusebox (i.e. removing it didn't disable 
your power locks completely; it just blocked the lock/unlock pulse that was 
generated when you moved the gearshift). If you don't have the owner's 
manual or don't find anything about it in there, ask around at a local GM 
dealership for any older mechanic that worked on 1994s in the past. This 
feature wasn't unique to Olds; I'm pretty sure Buicks did it, too.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! 
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:23:41 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: my 69 olds (fwd)

Hi George,

The VIN number on your car would indicate that the car was built in the 
fourth week of April 1969, during the timeframe of the production run of the 
1969 Hurst/Olds'. So your body tag should read 04D for the production date.

The nearest 69 H/O cars to your VIN number are 368180 (#395) and 368233 
(#441). Your VIN number falls in between there.

In the case of lack of documentation, I'd need to see photographs of the 
mirrors (there were many similar type mirrors, all with subtle differences), 
the mirror mount holes (both sides), the rims and the body tag of course.

The body tag should have 930 (black bucket seat interior) with a color code 
of 50. No 1969 Hurst/Olds' ever came without being ordered with those 
codes/options.

To my knowledge, no 1969 Hurst/Olds ever was equipped with a 4spd. Is the 
transmission numbers matching (VIN stamped)? Is the engine original? It 
would need to be a 455.

There were a total of 3 1969 H/O's produced. I thought the first 2 were 
produced earlier in the year (March), then after one was totalled, a third 
was built. The third car was in California recently, and I believe it was 
late 1969 or maybe early 1970 when its conversion occurred (maybe someone 
can enlighten me on that one). So only 2 convertibles are known to exist. 
The totalled car was scrapped, I've been told.

Hope this helps!

Best Regards,
Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ
69 H/O #89


********************

>Rec'd personally, respond to Lopescomery@aol.com if you can assist. Can
>this be a '69 H/O?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>           Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>
>Hi, my name is george lopes I have a 1969 olds 442 con, with a 4 speed 
>trans
>and 3.91 rear end. My car is being restored back to factory specs. My car 
>came
>with husrt rims and a spear in the truck (69) and hurst mirrors, but all
>crome.
>I could understand having hurst rims but, mirrors make no scense.
>I tried installing factory mirrors but they didn.t fit because the hole on
>the drivers side was to big (factory holes) we also tried installing remote
>mirrors but they didn,t fit also.Do you think the car was a pomo car in 69? 
>my vin
>is 34467m368190
>please help
>thank you!
>

_________________________________________________________________
Find high-speed ‘net deals — comparison-shop your local providers here. 
https://broadband.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:31:36 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys

Christopher Witt wrote:

> Having fun reading this "Farm Show" magazine ...

<OT> The hutterites (sort of Canadian Amish) bought some army surplus 
and built a tractor with two engines, one drives the front axle and the 
other drives the rear.  Apparently the problem is that nobody makes 
equipment large enough to justify it.  You want how big a plow? :0

They have machine shops for maintaining their farm equipment but they 
are not allowed to have "fun" so they work on the machines _way_ too 
much.  Blown 454 pickups to run into town for chicken feed and nitrous 
boosted snowmobiles to check the cows among others :))  They converted a 
single axle '56 Chevy truck to dually by splitting the stepside box and 
adding material to the middle to widen it.  Very tasty!

> It goes like this- for say Olds stuff or stuff in general:

Best buy:
    1) 69 sport steering wheel for $25ish.  Seller told me he used to 
hide his drugs in the centre cap.   Always good to know :>

    2) stainless trim for the bottom of 69 442 trunk, $40 plus shipping. 
  It was such a good deal I bought 2 :)

    3) very good steering wheel for 70 Chebelle for $5.  Walking through 
the wreckers my wife stops dead in her tracks and points to the trunk of 
a Fijord.  We had been quoted over $100 to repair her wheel and she 
found one with no cracks.  Gotta love the yardes.

    4) Costco engine hoist.  No more rushing around.  Engine not in at 
the end of the day?  No problem, just set it on the floor and have a beer.

Worst buy:
    1) engine rebuilding by Davenport in Calgary.  They lost my $900 
deposit, delayed it 3 months because "I hadn't given them a deposit" but 
  did not contact me, lost the specs so I don't even know what the C.R. 
is, and cannot explain why the engine doesn't run right.  Only thing 
they do know it that it's not their fault.  If you want a job done right ...

    2) rusty, non running, 69 442 that had been vandalized.  Saving a 
car is for the committed and the ones who should be committed. 
Apparently I'm more the latter than the former.

    3) Anything made by Sony lately.  Amp doesn't accept optical input, 
video 2 appears to be dead and DVD player has been fixed 3 times and 
still would not play Blade Runner last night.  <grumpble>  Had a beer 
instead.

Most lusted after:
    1) aluminum floor jack at Costco, 425 engine, Merlin Ti road bike, a 
garage door that keeps the mice out and the heat in, and more beer.
- -- 

Cliff "The voices in my head are nuts.  Nuts, I tell you." Simpson
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:35:52 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Por 15

Paul, you can try it, but I don't think it will hold up. I think the best
way is to cut the bad section out, weld in a new section, body putty it, and
repaint with epoxy primer and polyurethane color coat. Personally, I haven't
had the best of luck with POR 15. Sandblasting the rusted area is just about
mandatory before applying the POR 15.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul White" <oldslist@netscape.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <bigcarbunyan@netscape.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 9:06 AM
Subject: Por 15


> Hiya listers,
> Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience with Por-15? I
> have a 1973 Lincoln Continental and the top is rusted through pretty
> bad. I am going to use some Por 15 on there along with the little fabric
> stuff they have to fix it. I just was wondering if anyone on the list
> has any experience with it at all. I definately am going to post how it
> goes for me, ill even have photos. I know its not an Olds but I was
> thinking that this may be something that would be good for us to know
>
> paulbunyan
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 13:49:50 -0500
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

I think the por15 patch holds up better than the panit.  The tube of patch
is a thick substance you can smear on and I have not ever heard of someone
having found it to not hold up.  You can double glove, dab some on your
finger, and smear it over the affected area (horizontal surfaces are best),
making it nice and smooth.  It is thicker than the paint and holds up great,
from my experience.

Rob
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Por 15


> Paul, you can try it, but I don't think it will hold up. I think the best
> way is to cut the bad section out, weld in a new section, body putty it,
and
> repaint with epoxy primer and polyurethane color coat. Personally, I
haven't
> had the best of luck with POR 15. Sandblasting the rusted area is just
about
> mandatory before applying the POR 15.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:43:33 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: 72-98 comfortron

Matt
   I started a new e-mail rather than repeat the whole long one Paul 
sent you. A freqeuently failed part on the comfortron system was the 
transducer which I suspect is no longer available. All that Paul told 
you is correct. There is also a guy on the toro list with a good bit of 
comfortron experience if you need more help try to contact Bill Payne
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:26:36 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Comp Cams Rocker Kit Pushrods

- --part1_cc.275f3eb3.2d417dec_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 1/22/04 9:58:10 AM Central Standard Time,  
geo.aigel@netzero.net
writes:

> They come with the right length. The rods in the kit are different length 
> than the stock pushrods because the rocker arms are different.
> 
> That's where the confusion came in when I bought replacements. I asked 
> Summit what the 1441 (the SB kit in my case) came with, and they said with high 
> energy pushrods. So I ordered high energy pushrods for SB olds, which of course 
> are the stock replacements and not the same length than the one that come 
> with the kit ...
> 
> You get the idea. 1442 will have what you need for your 455, no problems.

George, Steve, List,
       Hate to disagree with you, but I have to.  My kit had the wrong length 
pushrods in it when I tried to put it in my 455.  They were too short and the 
bottom of the rocker was actually hitting the pad on the top of the head.  I 
didn't have the pad milled so maybe that was the problem-don't know.  I 
figured that the pushrods needed to be longer and I called Comp Cams.  They said 
they had the longer pushrods and charged me something for them.  Can't remember 
what it was, something like $100 or so.  They said they would rebate me $60 or 
so when I sent the originally supplied set back to them.  Guess I need to try 
and find that box and send them back sometime.  Hope this helps, Steve.
Steve D 

- --part1_cc.275f3eb3.2d417dec_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 1/22/04 9:58:10=20=
AM Central Standard Time,&nbsp; geo.aigel@netzero.net<BR>
writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">They come with the right length=
. The rods in the kit are different length than the stock pushrods because t=
he rocker arms are different.<BR>
<BR>
That's where the confusion came in when I bought replacements. I asked Summi=
t what the 1441 (the SB kit in my case) came with, and they said with high e=
nergy pushrods. So I ordered high energy pushrods for SB olds, which of cour=
se are the stock replacements and not the same length than the one that come=
 with the kit ...<BR>
<BR>
You get the idea. 1442 will have what you need for your 455, no problems.</B=
LOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
George, Steve, List,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Hate to disagree with you, but I have t=
o.&nbsp; My kit had the wrong length pushrods in it when I tried to put it i=
n my 455.&nbsp; They were too short and the bottom of the rocker was actuall=
y hitting the pad on the top of the head.&nbsp; I didn't have the pad milled=
 so maybe that was the problem-don't know.&nbsp; I figured that the pushrods=
 needed to be longer and I called Comp Cams.&nbsp; They said they had the lo=
nger pushrods and charged me something for them.&nbsp; Can't remember what i=
t was, something like $100 or so.&nbsp; They said they would rebate me $60 o=
r so when I sent the originally supplied set back to them.&nbsp; Guess I nee=
d to try and find that box and send them back sometime.&nbsp; Hope this help=
s, Steve.<BR>
Steve D </FONT></HTML>

- --part1_cc.275f3eb3.2d417dec_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:03:49 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Comp Cams Rocker Kit Pushrods

> George, Steve, List,
>        Hate to disagree with you, but I have to.  My kit had the wrong
length
> pushrods in it when I tried to put it in my 455.  They were too short

- ---------------------

I agree.  The one Crapetition Cams kit I tried had pushrods that were way
too short.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:09:27 -0500
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: 72-98 comfortron

Holy Shmoke! I was right!

Yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy lol. Thanks John

paulbunyan

Im glad to know the other comfortron guys on here too. I posted a buncha 
threads back in August/Sept when I was originally trying to fix mines. 
Thats how I learned all I know now. Too bad once I got the Comfortron 
fixed the engine spun a bearing or something *doh* Only 2 more months 
till I got enuff dough to buy that Recon engine lol

ribspot@pop4.net wrote:

> Matt
>   I started a new e-mail rather than repeat the whole long one Paul 
> sent you. A freqeuently failed part on the comfortron system was the 
> transducer which I suspect is no longer available. All that Paul told 
> you is correct. There is also a guy on the toro list with a good bit 
> of comfortron experience if you need more help try to contact Bill Payne
> LOL
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:59:00 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 72-98 comfortron

> transducer which I suspect is no longer available. All that Paul told
> you is correct.

- -----------------------

Comfortron is virtually identical to the Cadillac climate control system
used similar years.  There are a lot of guys on the Cadillac list and in the
Cadillac-LaSalle club who are very familiar with it.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:47:43 -0500
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: 72-98 comfortron

Fantastic!!!!

paulbunyan

fsnissen@worldnet.att.net wrote:

>>transducer which I suspect is no longer available. All that Paul told
>>you is correct.
>>    
>>
>
>-----------------------
>
>Comfortron is virtually identical to the Cadillac climate control system
>used similar years.  There are a lot of guys on the Cadillac list and in the
>Cadillac-LaSalle club who are very familiar with it.
>
>Regards,
>Fred
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:18:11 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: new parts manufacturer

I was just contacted by a company that makes all sorts of engine & tranny
parts such as dipstick tubes, pulleys, linkages, and z-bars. They are
currently doing Mustang parts but want to expand into GM. They want to start
by making things that nobody else does. Any requests?

John Nasta
Old Car Network
http://oldcarnetwork.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:35:27 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys

> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 12:50:36 -0300
> From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
> Subject: Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys
> 
> Let's remember John Nasta as well... And Smitty... they both have rare
> parts, good prices and all arrives ok.
> Matt


I'll second that. Smitty had a set of new .921" lifters sitting on the 
shelf when I called; they were in my hands several days later. And people 
say they are hard to find...

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:46:44 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Limitations of Caddy/Olds EFI system   was - Re: 455 Fuel Injection?

> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:43:00 -0600
> From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: Limitations of Caddy/Olds EFI system   was - Re: 
> 455 Fuel Injection?

lots o' stuff snipped


> > Kevin, what are your thoughts on this? Sounds like you're 
> researched it a bit.
> 
> A little. First I've actually thought about the performance 
> limitations of the manifold itself, though. Take a look at 
> the pictures of the manifold at the grimers.com url above, 
> specifically http://www.grimers.com/images/olds4.jpg. 
> What do you think?
> 
> On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...
> 
> Kevin Wright
> Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX

I think that manifold looks (from the pictures, at least) every bit as 
good as an SD manifold plumbed for EFI, which appears to be the most 
popular choice. Maybe Chris Carson was correct in his assessment: "What I 
think happened is that traditionalists took one glance at this "2bbl" manifold 
and figured it would perform as well as a car with a 2bbl." 
That, coupled with the antique controller and oddball injectors may be 
the reason people pass on using it. 

I'm beginning to think this might be a viable EFI platform. I just don't want 
to go through the learning curve the guy on that site went through.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:10:08 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: 72-98 comfortron

You're welcome Paul and Hey even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and 
then :))) I personally never liked to work on comfortron systems. Back 
in the days of dealership flat rate we did not get paid to diagnose only 
to repair. Comfortron diagnosis always took too long. My 70 Toro GT has 
A/C but not comfortron. I had a 70 toro parts car again A/C but not 
comfortron. Just lucky I guess.
Regards
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:22:19 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Limitations of Caddy/Olds EFI system   was - Re: 455 Fuel Injection?

I just dragged home my aluminum manifold from a 78 Seville today!! Man, that
distributor hold-down bolt must have been tightened by God, because it did
_not_ want to come out. But anyway, if someone wants some pics of the
aluminum version, I can provide.

- ----- Original Message -----
> I think that manifold looks (from the pictures, at least) every bit as
> good as an SD manifold plumbed for EFI, which appears to be the most
> popular choice.
>From what I can tell, Kevin is right, it is basically a big plenum, kinda
resembling an Offy 360...the "runners" are extremely short before it dumps
into the big plenum. A SD might be better for developing torque (although
I'm not sure it works the same on a dry manifold, but wouldn't a longer
runner increase velocity?) but I think the margin of power would be quite
small.

On a further note, if the small TB holes really bothered you, one could cut
out the entire area around the TB holes and fabricate an elbow, and run a
TPI or LT1 style throttle body. In fact, I think I've seen some company
selling elbows that appear like they may fit.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:49:46 -0500
From: "Dan Roethel" <droethel@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys

> Best buy:
>     1) 69 sport steering wheel for $25ish.  Seller told me he used to 
> hide his drugs in the centre cap.   Always good to know :>

Everybody has a 69 sport steering wheel but me.
Why can't I find one when they are going for $25.00?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:01:37 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: new parts manufacturer

At 05:18 PM 1/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I was just contacted by a company that makes all sorts of engine & tranny
>parts such as dipstick tubes, pulleys, linkages, and z-bars. They are
>currently doing Mustang parts but want to expand into GM. They want to start
>by making things that nobody else does. Any requests?
>
>John Nasta
>Old Car Network
>http://oldcarnetwork.com

How about EFI in the $1000-$2000 range for the 454, etc.

Almost all performance parts for the 371 and 324.

Or (sorry, not engine related), rear disc brakes for a 1958 Olds. 'Still 
haven't found a retofit kit!

'Best,

Nanook 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:32:32 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Por 15

Paul,
I've never used POR-15 on anything but:  When I was in Okinawa, we had a 
major corrosion problem on our equipment.  We used a product called 
Corroseal ( http://www.corroseal.com/  ) I don't know about long term 
results, but stuff we treated with it was still looking good a year later 
when I left there.

M


At 11:06 AM 1/22/2004 -0500, Paul wrote:
>Hiya listers,
>Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience with Por-15? I 
>have a 1973 Lincoln Continental and the top is rusted through pretty bad. 
>I am going to use some Por 15 on there along with the little fabric stuff 
>they have to fix it. I just was wondering if anyone on the list has any 
>experience with it at all. I definately am going to post how it goes for 
>me, ill even have photos. I know its not an Olds but I was thinking that 
>this may be something that would be good for us to know
>
>paulbunyan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:31:43 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: new parts manufacturer

>How about EFI in the $1000-$2000 range for the 454, etc.

Oops.. make that 455. <blush> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:42:06 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: new parts manufacturer

I'll take one of everything, please.

M

At 05:18 PM 1/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I was just contacted by a company that makes all sorts of engine & tranny
>parts such as dipstick tubes, pulleys, linkages, and z-bars. They are
>currently doing Mustang parts but want to expand into GM. They want to start
>by making things that nobody else does. Any requests?
>
>John Nasta
>Old Car Network
>http://oldcarnetwork.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:49:37 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: new parts manufacturer

  i would  like parts for my 77 cutlass and some forged 455 cranks
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Greg Tjosvold" <tjosvold@polar7.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 8:01 PM
  Subject: Re: new parts manufacturer


  > At 05:18 PM 1/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
  > >I was just contacted by a company that makes all sorts of engine & tranny
  > >parts such as dipstick tubes, pulleys, linkages, and z-bars. They are
  > >currently doing Mustang parts but want to expand into GM. They want to start
  > >by making things that nobody else does. Any requests?
  > >
  > >John Nasta
  > >Old Car Network
  > >http://oldcarnetwork.com
  > 
  > How about EFI in the $1000-$2000 range for the 454, etc.
  > 
  > Almost all performance parts for the 371 and 324.
  > 
  > Or (sorry, not engine related), rear disc brakes for a 1958 Olds. 'Still 
  > haven't found a retofit kit!
  > 
  > 'Best,
  > 
  > Nanook 
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:51:40 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

  lead fill  it  body puddy absorbs some moisture, but leading is a art long gone
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 1:35 PM
  Subject: Re: Por 15


  > Paul, you can try it, but I don't think it will hold up. I think the best
  > way is to cut the bad section out, weld in a new section, body putty it, and
  > repaint with epoxy primer and polyurethane color coat. Personally, I haven't
  > had the best of luck with POR 15. Sandblasting the rusted area is just about
  > mandatory before applying the POR 15.
  > 
  > Milton Schick
  > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > imp@theriver.com
  > 
  > 
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Paul White" <oldslist@netscape.net>
  > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <bigcarbunyan@netscape.net>
  > Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 9:06 AM
  > Subject: Por 15
  > 
  > 
  > > Hiya listers,
  > > Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience with Por-15? I
  > > have a 1973 Lincoln Continental and the top is rusted through pretty
  > > bad. I am going to use some Por 15 on there along with the little fabric
  > > stuff they have to fix it. I just was wondering if anyone on the list
  > > has any experience with it at all. I definately am going to post how it
  > > goes for me, ill even have photos. I know its not an Olds but I was
  > > thinking that this may be something that would be good for us to know
  > >
  > > paulbunyan
  > >
  > >
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 02:49:38 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

At 11:35 AM 1/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Paul, you can try it, but I don't think it will hold up. I think the best
>way is to cut the bad section out, weld in a new section, body putty it, and
>repaint with epoxy primer and polyurethane color coat. Personally, I haven't
>had the best of luck with POR 15. Sandblasting the rusted area is just about
>mandatory before applying the POR 15.

Sandblasted, clean metal is exactly what POR-15 does NOT bond to; they even
have a metal etching solution to prep a clean metal surface. It's all
explained in the instructions: clean metal is a NO-NO.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:55:56 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

  i like it 
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Tom Bejma" <tomcb@prplastics.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:32 AM
  Subject: RE: Por 15


  > I was very impressed with how it worked on my Olds.
  > 
  > (see the pictures on my site that I posted earlier
  > http://homepage.mac.com/tcbracing/PhotoAlbum4.html)
  > 
  > But...
  > 
  > I also read an article in an Auto Restoration magazine
  > about Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" compared directly
  > to POR15 and the Eastwood product performed a little
  > better especially if you might not completely cover
  > the item.  Eastwood's product performed better at the
  > edge of the coating.
  > 
  > POR15 is basically a hard rubber type coating.  It
  > requires a phosphate etching to neutralize the rust and
  > prepare the metal for the coating.
  > 
  > If you go with POR15 buy the "6 packs" that are tiny
  > cans of the coating (Once you open a can of POR15 you
  > basically have to completely use the can).  The little
  > cans are very convenient.
  > 
  > Tom Bejma
  > Harrison Twp., MI
  > 
  > 
  > > -----Original Message-----
  > > From: Paul White [mailto:oldslist@netscape.net]
  > > Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:06 AM
  > > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; bigcarbunyan@netscape.net
  > > Subject: Por 15
  > > 
  > > 
  > > Hiya listers,
  > > Quick question. Does anyone out there have any experience 
  > > with Por-15? 
  > 
  > [Snip]
  >  
  > > paulbunyan
  > > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 22:00:55 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: question on newer Olds...

  oil pump drive is more common but lets face it the 2.8 and 3.1 l still are leakers even in all the
newer versions.
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: <62oldsfan@comcast.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:01 AM
  Subject: Re: question on newer Olds...


  > > if its the 3.1 i think it is  just under the throttle body on bell housing
  > > flange theres a hold down clamp wich retains oil pump drive assembly, there is a
  > > gasket and seal that goes bad, and leaks oil.
  >
  > It could also be the intake manifold gaskets.  3.1s are known for intake coolant leaks, but
sometimes they leak oil, also.
  >
  > Paul
  >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 22:01:38 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: new parts manufacturer

Hey John,

        64-67 jack hold down brackets .........
The will fit most a bodies and go for about $30.00
on $bay..

        66-67 442 standard trans battery cable bracket, tube, and throttle
linkage.

        Inner fender patch panels - repair the rust out from battery trays
....

radiator core support patch panels - repair the rust out from where the
body bushings go .....

        If I think of anything else, I will get in touch ....

The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 20:03:48 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Oldsnuts nominate best/ worst buys

Dan Roethel wrote:
>>Best buy:
>>    1) 69 sport steering wheel for $25ish.  Seller told me he used to 
>>hide his drugs in the centre cap.   Always good to know :>
> 
> Everybody has a 69 sport steering wheel but me.
> Why can't I find one when they are going for $25.00?

Either:
    a) the people you knew still needed their sport wheels to hide their 
drugs.

    b) the people you knew didn't have sport wheels to hide their drugs in.

    I can see no other logical explanation :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:09:13 -0600
From: OLDSmobility <oldsmobility@cableone.net>
Subject: 64-67 A-body clutch bellcrank frame bracket

What's the proper procedure to locate the correct spot to weld a '64-'67 
A-body clutch bellcrank frame bracket to the frame?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 02:54:24 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Por 15

At 01:49 PM 1/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I think the por15 patch holds up better than the panit.  The tube of patch
>is a thick substance you can smear on and I have not ever heard of someone
>having found it to not hold up.  You can double glove, dab some on your
>finger, and smear it over the affected area (horizontal surfaces are best),
>making it nice and smooth.  It is thicker than the paint and holds up great,
>from my experience.

It's also not hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), like body putty.

SteveH

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4751
*********************************
