
oldsmobile-digest      Friday, February 13 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4774



Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: clerks who can't make change
Re: Customer Service
Re: Customer Service
Re: 63 Olds - rubber insulators (cushions) for radiator
Re: Rebuilding Q-jets?
Re: 63 Olds - rubber insulators-Link
Re: Power Windows
Re: Power Windows
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: Power Windows
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
RE: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh
Re: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh
Re: Power Windows
Re: Power Windows
power window wiring
Convertible front header bow trim
Re: Power Windows
Re: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh
Need digest #4772
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Front end component colors

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 02:50:03 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

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In a message dated 2/11/2004 9:08:46 AM Central Standard Time, 
kcolund@shaw.ca writes:


> Remember alot of what pro installers do is based on creating impressive 
> appearances,
> not improving sound.

You ever been to a dB drag race? Some of thier wiring looks like garbage. 160 
dBs ain't garbage tho

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/11/2004 9:08:46 AM Central Standard Time, kcolund@shaw.ca writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Remember alot of what pro i=
nstallers do is based on creating impressive appearances,
<BR>not improving sound.</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" sty=
le=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" F=
ACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>You ever been to a dB drag race? Some of thier wiring looks like garbage=
. 160 dBs ain't garbage tho</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 02:53:37 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: clerks who can't make change

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In a message dated 2/11/2004 6:58:43 AM Central Standard Time, 
ribspot@pop4.net writes:


> No big deal when I pointed out that she owed me a quarter she 
> stated we don't have any *&amp;amp;^%( quarters

It is more frustrating when it is your employees telling customers that and 
you are unknowingly sitting in the office with $50-60 worth of quarters

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/11/2004 6:58:43 AM Central Standard Time, ribspot@pop4.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">No big deal when I pointed=20=
out that she owed me a quarter she=20
<BR>stated we don't have any *&amp;amp;^%( quarters</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#0=
00000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=
=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>It is more frustrating when it is your employees telling customers that=20=
and you are unknowingly sitting in the office with $50-60 worth of quarters<=
/FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 02:55:59 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: Customer Service

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In a message dated 2/11/2004 9:08:46 AM Central Standard Time, 
sreed@chatsworth.com writes:


> Yes, I know small minds are easily amused but...I always enjoy getting 
> change back from someone a little older than me and they know how to count the 
> change as they give it to you.
> 
> For example if you buy something for $4.95, and give them a 10 dollar bill, 
> they return a nickel, and say "that makes 5", and then give you a 5 dollar 
> bill, and say "and another 5 makes 10".

Perhaps I am too quick to skip steps (remind me of what my calculus teacher 
tells me) but in that case I would just said $5.05 is you change and handing 
both to you at once. I would count the $5.05, but wouldn't say "and that makes 
10 part"

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/11/2004 9:08:46 AM Central Standard Time, sreed@chatsworth.com write=
s:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Yes, I know small minds are=
 easily amused but...I always enjoy getting change back from someone a littl=
e older than me and they know how to count the change as they give it to you=
.
<BR>
<BR>For example if you buy something for $4.95, and give them a 10 dollar bi=
ll, they return a nickel, and say "that makes 5", and then give you a 5 doll=
ar bill, and say "and another 5 makes 10".</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BA=
CK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMI=
LY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>Perhaps I am too quick to skip steps (remind me of what my calculus teac=
her tells me) but in that case I would just said $5.05 is you change and han=
ding both to you at once. I would count the $5.05, but wouldn't say "and tha=
t makes 10 part"</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 02:58:11 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: Customer Service

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In a message dated 2/11/2004 9:08:46 AM Central Standard Time, 
sreed@chatsworth.com writes:


> Yes, I know small minds are easily amused but...I always enjoy getting 
> change back from someone a little older than me and they know how to count the 
> change as they give it to you.
> 
> For example if you buy something for $4.95, and give them a 10 dollar bill, 
> they return a nickel, and say "that makes 5", and then give you a 5 dollar 
> bill, and say "and another 5 makes 10".

Perhaps I am too quick to skip steps (remind me of what my calculus teacher 
tells me) but in that case I would just said $5.05 is you change and handing 
both to you at once. I would count the $5.05, but wouldn't say "and that makes 
10 part"

- --part1_d6.32dfc07.2d5c8c13_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/11/2004 9:08:46 AM Central Standard Time, sreed@chatsworth.com write=
s:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Yes, I know small minds are=
 easily amused but...I always enjoy getting change back from someone a littl=
e older than me and they know how to count the change as they give it to you=
.
<BR>
<BR>For example if you buy something for $4.95, and give them a 10 dollar bi=
ll, they return a nickel, and say "that makes 5", and then give you a 5 doll=
ar bill, and say "and another 5 makes 10".</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BA=
CK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMI=
LY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>Perhaps I am too quick to skip steps (remind me of what my calculus teac=
her tells me) but in that case I would just said $5.05 is you change and han=
ding both to you at once. I would count the $5.05, but wouldn't say "and tha=
t makes 10 part"</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_d6.32dfc07.2d5c8c13_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 06:31:40 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Jay Britt <jbritt67@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 63 Olds - rubber insulators (cushions) for radiator

Bill,

You can find them on the Steele Rubber web site by searching for your car and selecting "Bumper & Grill" from the table of contents.

Jay

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kato111@aol.com
Sent: Feb 11, 2004 7:14 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 63 Olds - rubber insulators (cushions) for radiator

I removed my radiator to get it repaired. - - 63 Olds super 88 with 394 cu in 
engine (4 barrel carb)  - no air conditioning,  The radiator is a a Harrison 
#9361
On the two bottom brackets where the radiator sits in, there are rubber 
insulators (cushions).  There is also a rubber insulator on the top bracket.
Does anyone know where to get these insulators (rubber cushions)?
Thanks
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 06:35:24 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Q-jets?

Hey List,

        I get my carbs done at a local plater.
I have a 65 GTO tripower on Ebay if anyone
is interested. This company sells what you need
for home use ...

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 06:40:24 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Jay Britt <jbritt67@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 63 Olds - rubber insulators-Link

http://www.steelerubber.com/

- -----Original Message-----
Bill,

You can find them on the Steele Rubber web site by searching for your car and selecting "Bumper & Grill" from the table of contents.

Jay

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kato111@aol.com
Sent: Feb 11, 2004 7:14 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 63 Olds - rubber insulators (cushions) for radiator

I removed my radiator to get it repaired. - - 63 Olds super 88 with 394 cu in 
engine (4 barrel carb)  - no air conditioning,  The radiator is a a Harrison 
#9361
On the two bottom brackets where the radiator sits in, there are rubber 
insulators (cushions).  There is also a rubber insulator on the top bracket.
Does anyone know where to get these insulators (rubber cushions)?
Thanks
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 07:18:54 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

> Typically the factory rivets the regulator to the motor, and the motor to
> the door, but as I said, it's pretty trivial to knock out the rivet stem
and
> drill out the rivet.

Dunno what it's like on other cars, but the 85 Delta uses a perforated band
assembly to drive the window, and the whole darn thing hadda come out before
I could get to the motor. I took one out of a spare front door I have just
to see what's involved, and decided it was WAY too much work to bother on my
car. The passenger side front window goes up slowly, and it's gonna stay
that way.

The only good news is the motor itself seems to be the same as earlier
years.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 08:04:41 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

> Dunno what it's like on other cars, but the 85 Delta uses a perforated
band
> assembly to drive the window, and the whole darn thing hadda come out
before
> I could get to the motor.

- --------------------

Dave is right.  Most '80-'90 GM cars used the plastic tape window mechanism
instead of the scissor type.  (The exceptions to this were usually some
coupe models without framed door glass like the '79-'85 Toronado, which
retained the older scissor type mechanism.)  The tape type was both lighter
and cheaper to make.  The regulator has to come out to access the motor.
Branson, I can fax or e-mail you the relevant pages from a shop manual if
you need them.  Hit me privately.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 08:09:28 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

>> The ground wire is the one from battery negative to the body (fender), and
>> it's only about 10 gage. If you're using 4 gage for your amp, you should
>> increase the battery ground wire size to 4 gage too. Also the positive wire
>> from alternator to battery.


>This is incorrect (in most circumstances) as the thickness 
>is required to provide sufficient power for the length of the
>run. A shorter run can get away with a smaller gauge. Regardless
>of amp rating, I'm willing to bet the four gauge power
>lead is much bigger than required. Remember alot of what
>pro installers do is based on creating impressive appearances,
>not improving sound.

>Kevin

Well ye old book reads that 4 Ga is good for running 75 Amps, so take that into consideration.


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:15:44 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Windows

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In a message dated 2/11/04 9:41:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,  
Roncutlass@aol.com
writes:

> I'm trying to make a decision on adding power windows to my 70 Supreme 
> ragtop.  Now I don't want to find fault with anyones help to date, but some 
> say its 
> very simple, others say you have to weld or pop rivet into the doors.  Can I 
> 
> get some more feedback from you folks before I start buying parts.  Really 
> appreciate your advice and if possible, please e-mail roncutlass@aol.com  
> TIA, Ron

Ron,
      It is an easier proposition on the older cars, at least where the 
window regulators are concerned, then the newer versions.  The window regulators 
are bolted in on the 70-72 Cutlasses, so it's a simple task to pull the old, 
manual regulator out and replace it with the power regulator and attached motor.  
The wiring to said motors, on the other hand poses a small problem, as it may 
necessitate the removal of your dash to properly route up to your power 
source.  You will also need to drill holes in your door jambs and firewall for the 
wiring.  The price of this setup is becoming somewhat prohibitive, as demand 
seems to be exceeding supply, driving the cost up.  I have never been able to 
find a wiring diagram which covers power windows in any of my GM books either.  
This doesn't mean they don't exist, as I'm sure they are to be found 
somewhere, but I don't seem to have them.  Anyone else have a power window wiring 
diagram handy?
Thanks, 
Steve D

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 2/11/04 9:41:16=20=
PM Pacific Standard Time,&nbsp; Roncutlass@aol.com<BR>
writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm trying to make a decision o=
n adding power windows to my 70 Supreme <BR>
ragtop.&nbsp; Now I don't want to find fault with anyones help to date, but=20=
some say its <BR>
very simple, others say you have to weld or pop rivet into the doors.&nbsp;=20=
Can I <BR>
get some more feedback from you folks before I start buying parts.&nbsp; Rea=
lly <BR>
appreciate your advice and if possible, please e-mail roncutlass@aol.com&nbs=
p; TIA, Ron</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Ron,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; It is an easier proposition on the older cars=
, at least where the window regulators are concerned, then the newer version=
s.&nbsp; The window regulators are bolted in on the 70-72 Cutlasses, so it's=
 a simple task to pull the old, manual regulator out and replace it with the=
 power regulator and attached motor.&nbsp; The wiring to said motors, on the=
 other hand poses a small problem, as it may necessitate the removal of your=
 dash to properly route up to your power source.&nbsp; You will also need to=
 drill holes in your door jambs and firewall for the wiring.&nbsp; The price=
 of this setup is becoming somewhat prohibitive, as demand seems to be excee=
ding supply, driving the cost up.&nbsp; I have never been able to find a wir=
ing diagram which covers power windows in any of my GM books either.&nbsp; T=
his doesn't mean they don't exist, as I'm sure they are to be found somewher=
e, but I don't seem to have them.&nbsp; Anyone else have a power window wiri=
ng diagram handy?<BR>
Thanks, <BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 08:19:00 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

Matt,

> > It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.
> >
> > How do these hold up as the miles pile on, assuming proper maintenance?
>
> Dad used to have one in an '88 Blazer...waited until April that year to
> order it with the 4.3.  If the electrical system or computer (whichever
was
> the source of the glitches) hadn't gone on the fritz, he'd probably still
> have it.  Mechanically, it never needed anything beyond the usual
> maintenance and was still going strong the last time I rode in it.


>How about the mpg numbers? Are they really better that the V8 mpg ? There
>are nice Silverado's down there, quite cheap for a big truck, available with
>both engines. Instinctively I look only the V8s, but... 4.3 has 190-200HP
>and if the mpg are significatively greater in number, maybe a V6 could do
>the work, I mean give the pleasure...
>Matt

The 4.3s that I tore down and rebuilt when working as a machinist were terrific engines.  Very LITTLE wear on the components.  I remember an engine a friend brought in and he was wondering if it needed to be bored after running 180K miles on it.

Nope not at all, the pistons were in great shape, the cylinders looked awesome, with no ridge, the roller camshaft looked great.

>From what I saw they were very excellent engines, and had a decent amount of power.


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 11:33:45 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

Steve,
My father-in-law had a GMC V6 truck, 1958, as a work truck in his small
company. Rated 1000lbs was charged the double, had no regular oil changes...
when he had he engine open after about 200000miles it appeared like new, and
only gaskets and cleanning was needed. The same engine still was driven by
his son in 1985 before it was sold for the mpg reasons... nice to know, that
another not Olds engine arrives high in mpg, as the Chevy SB is not famous
for its long life..
Now, the Q still open is about the mpg and mph. Is this Vortec V6 quick and
economical or is it slow and thirsty?
rgds
Matt
> The 4.3s that I tore down and rebuilt when working as a machinist were
terrific engines.  Very LITTLE wear on the components.  I remember an engine
a friend brought in and he was wondering if it needed to be bored after
running 180K miles on it.
>
> Nope not at all, the pistons were in great shape, the cylinders looked
awesome, with no ridge, the roller camshaft looked great.
>
> From what I saw they were very excellent engines, and had a decent amount
of power.
>
>
> Steve Reed
> '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
> '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
> '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
> Austin, TX
> http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 07:16:54 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

>
> Well ye old book reads that 4 Ga is good for running 75 Amps, so take that into consideration.
>

Very true. But 75 amps is 900 watts of potential power at 12 volts. Is he going to use that? What power is his amp (true
power draw that is-see below). Also keep in mind that the resistance of a conductor is based on its resistive
coefficient multiplied by the length divided by cross sectional area. That's why a short wire can be thinner than the
long one. Look at the conductors inside a high powered amp. They are usually around a 24 gauge or thinner. Based on
this, the battery ground and alternator supply can be smaller than say a lead to the trunk for example.

Another thing to remember...power can't be pulled from thin air. Power out (mechanical + heat losses) must equal power
in. In the auto world, there isn't a set of standardized tests for rating amplifier power so they are often rated at an
inlet voltage of 16 volts and up (I've seen them test as high as 45 volts??). This provides false ratings for amplifier
power. Kicker amps for example are rated correctly and will peak much higher than rated power at 12 volts. Most other
amps will never reach rated output power.

Look at the factory installed fuse on an amp. Multiply it by 16 (about the highest voltage it is ever going to see) and
you will know it's true maximum power potential (power out + efficiency losses). I've seen many 500 to 1000 watt amps
running on a 20 to 30 watt fuse.

:-O   Wow!

All this time, the automotive electronics world have known the secret to FREE ENERGY but didn't tell the rest of us.

I jumped in on this thread and don't know the power of the amp or application. But the theory applies regardless. I
don't know if anyone recommended a cap, but they are pretty much essential on a sub amp for high output.

As to a another members question  about DB drags...Yes I've hosted a few at the car audio store I worked at while taking
my electronics engineering courses in college. High DB's isn't my thing though, I like quality sound. I always build for
that in my vehicles. I built a system once for $800 Canadian with what is considered to be garbage components
(Realistic, MEI, AR) and entered it in the competition to prove a point. The system had FLAT response from 25Hz to 20khz
with the exception of a 3db drop at 400 HZ (oops, goofed up one of my cross-over points by a couple hundred hz). I had
guys with multi thousand dollar systems arguing with the judges trying to get my car re-tested for in their opinion
"There is no way sh** products like that could produce those results."

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:42:53 -0600
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
The amp I (will be) running is a JBL 600.2--it has two 30
amp fuses, and 16*30 = 480*2 is 960. So, it would run at
max 480 watts per channel?

That's assuming that the alternator hits 16 volts, which it
doesn't--usually voltage while the car is running is around
13-14, which brings everything into perspective. 

Clarification:
The 4ga power cable runs from the battery to inside the
cabin, and from there it goes to a distribution block then
goes down to 6 or 8ga if my memory serves me correctly. I
think everything there will be sufficient, if not
overkill...


- --Branson


On Thu, 12 Feb 2004 07:16:54 -0800
 Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca> wrote:
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of
> CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> >
> > Well ye old book reads that 4 Ga is good for running 75
> Amps, so take that into consideration.
> >
> 
> Very true. But 75 amps is 900 watts of potential power at
> 12 volts. Is he going to use that? What power is his amp
> (true
> power draw that is-see below). Also keep in mind that the
> resistance of a conductor is based on its resistive
> coefficient multiplied by the length divided by cross
> sectional area. That's why a short wire can be thinner
> than the
> long one. Look at the conductors inside a high powered
> amp. They are usually around a 24 gauge or thinner. Based
> on
> this, the battery ground and alternator supply can be
> smaller than say a lead to the trunk for example.
> 
> Another thing to remember...power can't be pulled from
> thin air. Power out (mechanical + heat losses) must equal
> power
> in. In the auto world, there isn't a set of standardized
> tests for rating amplifier power so they are often rated
> at an
> inlet voltage of 16 volts and up (I've seen them test as
> high as 45 volts??). This provides false ratings for
> amplifier
> power. Kicker amps for example are rated correctly and
> will peak much higher than rated power at 12 volts. Most
> other
> amps will never reach rated output power.
> 
> Look at the factory installed fuse on an amp. Multiply it
> by 16 (about the highest voltage it is ever going to see)
> and
> you will know it's true maximum power potential (power
> out + efficiency losses). I've seen many 500 to 1000 watt
> amps
> running on a 20 to 30 watt fuse.
> 
> :-O   Wow!
> 
> All this time, the automotive electronics world have
> known the secret to FREE ENERGY but didn't tell the rest
> of us.
> 
> I jumped in on this thread and don't know the power of
> the amp or application. But the theory applies
> regardless. I
> don't know if anyone recommended a cap, but they are
> pretty much essential on a sub amp for high output.
> 
> As to a another members question  about DB drags...Yes
> I've hosted a few at the car audio store I worked at
> while taking
> my electronics engineering courses in college. High DB's
> isn't my thing though, I like quality sound. I always
> build for
> that in my vehicles. I built a system once for $800
> Canadian with what is considered to be garbage components
> (Realistic, MEI, AR) and entered it in the competition to
> prove a point. The system had FLAT response from 25Hz to
> 20khz
> with the exception of a 3db drop at 400 HZ (oops, goofed
> up one of my cross-over points by a couple hundred hz). I
> had
> guys with multi thousand dollar systems arguing with the
> judges trying to get my car re-tested for in their
> opinion
> "There is no way sh** products like that could produce
> those results."
> 
> Kevin
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:45:28 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh

> > >I want to replace, pushrods,lifters,rockers, cam, timing 
> > > chain set, and camshaft, and gaskets of course. Looking to 
> > > probably bump up the cam a little, but nothing too radical. 
> > > I am looking for any recomendations/tips/useful info. Who is 
> > > the best/cheapest source for mostly stock parts? Might
>  > >throw a set of headers and dual exhaust if possible.

I agree with most of what George posted - I disagree with him on the use 
of headers, though. I have a set of Heddman Headers on my '71 350, and 
had a set on my '70 350 as well. I never had any issues with them - no 
leaks, fitment problems, etc., and they were only about $150. They were 
easy to install, too. When the engine was out for the rebuild I laid the 
headers in the engine bay then lowered the engine down on top of them.

On to camshafts. The original cam in your 350 is reported to be .400/.400 
lift, 186/202 duration @ .050, 250/264 advertised duration on 109 LSA. You 
can use these numbers as a reference point when shopping for a new cam. 
Personally, for a peppy daily driver I would recommend the Crane 260. It 
has .456/.484 lift, 204/216 duration @ .050, 260/272 advertised duration 
on 112 LSA. Should make for a smooth idle, lots of low end and mid range 
power, and a bit more top end than the factory cam.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 14:08:21 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh

Same cam from PAW costs 49.95... just my .02
Matt
... for a peppy daily driver I would recommend the Crane 260. It 
> has .456/.484 lift, 204/216 duration @ .050, 260/272 advertised duration 
> on 112 LSA. Should make for a smooth idle, lots of low end and mid range 
> power, and a bit more top end than the factory cam.
> 
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:24:47 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Power Windows

> I have never been able to find a wiring diagram which covers power windows in > any of my GM books either.  This doesn't mean they don't exist, as I'm sure
> they are to be found somewhere, but I don't seem to have them.  Anyone else 
> have a power window wiring diagram handy?

Power window wiring diagrams are not found in the CSM, but should be found in the Fisher Body service manual.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:28:35 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

>The wiring to said motors, on the other hand poses a small problem, as it 
>may
>necessitate the removal of your dash to properly route up to your power
>source.

As far as this detail goes, the power window circuit is usually plugged into 
an IGN port at the fusebox which is protected by a circuit breaker for that 
purpose. While I think you'll find the empty port is available on the car to 
which you're adding the power windows, you may find that the circuit breaker 
isn't there, and will need to be added. Study the donor car's fusebox when 
pulling the wiring harness out of it.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Plan your next US getaway to one of the super destinations here. 
http://special.msn.com/local/hotdestinations.armx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 14:25:09 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: power window wiring

(snip) I have never been able to find a wiring diagram which covers 
power windows in any of my GM books either.

Guys
The only fisher body manual I have is the 76 but it has complete power 
window wiring. Try the body manual not the CSM for power window questions
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 15:33:46 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Convertible front header bow trim

I'm looking for a piece of trim that goes across the inside edge of 
the front header bow on my '71 convertible. This trim is sorta U 
shaped vinyl with a stiff serpentine wire insert and slips over the 
metal lip on the underside/rear facing edge of the front header bow. 
It runs the entire length of the bow from latch to latch. At work we 
have an enclosed high speed milling machine that has this same trim 
on the edges of the door opening to protect against getting cut on the 
metal edges. Anyone have any ideas where I can find a length of this 
stuff?

Kenneth 
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 16:39:42 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

I do have a power window diagram handy for a '68.  Picked the manual up on 
ebay a while back.

M

At 09:15 AM 2/12/2004 -0500, Steve D wrote:
>Ron,
>       It is an easier proposition on the older cars, at least where the 
> window regulators are concerned, then the newer versions.  The window 
> regulators are bolted in on the 70-72 Cutlasses, so it's a simple task to 
> pull the old, manual regulator out and replace it with the power 
> regulator and attached motor.  The wiring to said motors, on the other 
> hand poses a small problem, as it may necessitate the removal of your 
> dash to properly route up to your power source.  You will also need to 
> drill holes in your door jambs and firewall for the wiring.  The price of 
> this setup is becoming somewhat prohibitive, as demand seems to be 
> exceeding supply, driving the cost up.  I have never been able to find a 
> wiring diagram which covers power windows in any of my GM books 
> either.  This doesn't mean they don't exist, as I'm sure they are to be 
> found somewhere, but I don't seem to have them.  Anyone else have a power 
> window wiring diagram handy?
>Thanks,
>Steve D

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:51:37 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh

>
> On to camshafts. The original cam in your 350 is reported to be .400/.400
> lift, 186/202 duration @ .050, 250/264 advertised duration on 109 LSA. You
> can use these numbers as a reference point when shopping for a new cam.
> Personally, for a peppy daily driver I would recommend the Crane 260. It
> has .456/.484 lift, 204/216 duration @ .050, 260/272 advertised duration
> on 112 LSA. Should make for a smooth idle, lots of low end and mid range
> power, and a bit more top end than the factory cam.
>

This is the same cam I run on mine with a Comp Cams1441 Kit in a 350. Low end and midrange are excellent. Pulls hard
from 2200 - 5000 on a stock Q-jet with duals. Gas mileage is 18-22 mpg city  26-30 hiway. Conversion to US mpg = 15-18
city and 22-25 hiway with 2.73 gears.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 21:28:20 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Need digest #4772

I seem to have missed digest #4772 somehow. Could someone forward me a 
copy?

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 00:13:49 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@infionline.net>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

King V wrote:

>At 07:27 PM 02/11/2004 -0300, Matt wrote:
>  
>
>>How about the mpg numbers? Are they really better that the V8 mpg ? There
>>are nice Silverado's down there, quite cheap for a big truck, available with
>>both engines. Instinctively I look only the V8s, but... 4.3 has 190-200HP
>>and if the mpg are significatively greater in number, maybe a V6 could do
>>the work, I mean give the pleasure...
>>    
>>
I missed most of this thread I guess, but my 1999 Silverado partsmobile 
regular body pickup has the 4.6 (?) liter engine that puts out 255 HP 
with a 3.4x rearend.  I can drop the tailgate and get 20 mpg running 
75-85 mph on the interstates.  It has plenty of pop off the "line" if 
you are of a mind to punch it rather smartly.  My dad recently bought a 
2000 extended cab short bed Silverado with the 5.3 motor and (I'm pretty 
sure) 3.73 gears.  While I don't know what the mpg factor is on his, I 
do know it gets better than his 1993 regular body Silverado with the 
305.  That (aka known as my usedtobe borrowed partsmobile) truck 
wouldn't get better than 17.x no matter how I drove it......

I think the newer versions of this (and the GMC sibling) run about 275 
hp for the 4.6 (or is it 4.8, I can't remember) while the 5.3 has 300 hp....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 18:55:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Brett <estiaat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Front end component colors

Hi all,

Well, I decided that my life is not frustrating enough, so I have begun the
teardown of my 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible in preparation to paint it.  I
will do all of the work myself.  If somebody had created a document outlining
the various colors as was suggested, I would be all set.  

The areas that I am interested in is all the generally black body parts behind
the grill and bumper.  I cannot tell the specific finish on some (semigloss,
flat, etc), and other parts are either black or body color.  Specifically of
interest are the assemblies that consist of a bracket with the headlight
buckets attached.  I know the grills are silver, and the stone shield and
headlight housings are body color. 

Also, I recall seeing the suggestion of a spray paint source for the black as
well as the silver (argent?) color of the grills.  Was it Krylon?  Also, what
colors and finishes?

I am not pulling the engine, so the deepest I will probably get into the engine
compartment will be the plate above the radiator.

I also need a couple of the fine pitched screws that hold the headlight
retaining rings in place.  Not the adjuster screws.  Any suggested source for
them?

If anybody is curious, I plan to use urethane base coat/clear coat.  By the
way, I can't help but think about how good the condition of these parts are as
I remove them.  I keep thinking how much I could probably get for them on that
notorious online auction house.  

Must control myself...

car will be worth lots after painting...

don't part it out...

that's ok, the feeling will pass...




Brett Chaveriat

estiaat@yahoo.com
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - Radiant Green (about to turn grey for a
while)



=====
Brett Chaveriat

estiaat@yahoo.com

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4774
*********************************
