
oldsmobile-digest      Friday, February 6 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4767



Re: silly gas tank question  - Inline Tube
Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please
Head Bolts or Studs - More
Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations
Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!
Re: TH 300 vs TH 400
Fuel Pumps & Regulator query(s)
Re: silly gas tank question  - Inline Tube
RE: silly gas tank question  - Inline Tube
Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations
Re: Fuel Pumps & Regulator query(s)
Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please
Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!
Coast Guard (was Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!)
350 rebuild advice needed
Re: TH 300 vs TH 400
Battery Web Page
Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!
Re: Coast Guard (was Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!)
Used head bolts
Re: Used head bolts
Re: Head Bolts or Studs
Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!
Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations
RE: Fuel Pumps & Regulator query(s)
Re: Head Bolts or Studs
OEM Head Studs/Bolts Continued.....
Re: OEM Head Studs/Bolts Continued.....
Olds engine Bolts set for cheap
new almost factory type  head bolts
Re: new almost factory type  head bolts
Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!
VIN-9 CAMSHAFT- not today I guess. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 12:50:43 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: silly gas tank question  - Inline Tube

The General wrote:
> Hey List,
> 
>         Inline Tube is also selling repro sending unit/fuel pick ups
> for the early 442s. They state that their units are 3/8 and that  ......
> 
> GM Sending Units Notes:
> All cars 67 and older had a 5/16 fuel line, If you are up-grading to a
> larger 3/8" fuel line you will need to upgrade the sending unit as well.
> 
>         442s and 4 barrel Cutlass all had 3/8 fuel line ..........
> They list a different part number on the sending unit for Buick, Olds,
> Pontiac,
> and Chevy for the same part !!!!
> 
> Check out the sight ...
> http://www.inlinetube.com/
> 
> 
> The General       patton442@verizon.net
> 
> 
> 
Hey list
     For what its worth the toro list guys have nothing nice to say 
about inline tube. I have no personal experience with them just passing 
on a warning
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 17:35:23 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please

>Best source of 8 gage and bigger is car audio shops. They have super
>flexible wire in multiple colors, as well as the connectors.

Ah. You and I hang out in different worlds.  :-)

- -- Andy (Hey, at least I didn't suggest a solution involving re-purposed 
Diaper Genie parts... :-)

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up — fast & reliable Internet access with prime 
features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:15:10 -0500
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Head Bolts or Studs - More

I bought up the last set of Olds head bolts last year.......:)

ARP makes a nice set. The only issue is that Olds uses some funky "stud
bolts" that are used to mount the P/S brackets and the heat shrould.
Depending on the application, you could use up to 3 of these "stud
bolts".

I would reuse the stud bolts, and use ARP on the rest.

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 12:34:12 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations

All,
	I'm putting together my list of goodies to buy with my tax refund to make my 455 even more rock solid.
	Does anyone have any suggestions for specific suppliers for these Olds parts:

1.  Heat Treated Oil Pump Driveshaft
2.  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear
3.  ARP Head Bolts
4.  ARP Main Bolts


I don't need too many more items, just a few.   

Dick Miller Racing??

John Nasta Do you Carry these items?

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:21:32 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

At Thursday, 05 February 2004, you wrote:
>Y'know, if he ever does make it over here (and I wouldn't 
>be surprised if strings are being pulled _somewhere_ to 
>enable that; Castro might let him go just to avoid further 
>embarrassing publicity),

After being returned to Cuba only a few months ago, I'm wondering 
why Castro's flunkies didn't imprison him to begin with, for trying 
to "escape". Why'd they let him back into public: after all, his 
previous escape attempts would have provided an incentive to others.


Clearly, he had lots of time on his hands to get that '59 Buick prepared 
for its watery trip. I mean, consider: not only having to seal the 
cabin to keep the car from sinking, but also waterproofing the ignition 
and carb intake system. Lots more work musta gone into that car than 
is obvious on the surface. You did notice the wedge that had been 
crafted for the front of the car to cut through the waves, right?

Musta been LOTS of work... and some resources, too. Maybe he'd already 
been working on that one for some time. The article said something 
about the rear end of the car but the pix cut that off.

Someone really outta crucify the Coast Guard commander who ordered 
the car sunk; it would have been a really interesting thing to examine.
Heck: the Coasties could probably have made money on it just hauling 
it around the country on a show n' tell   ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

>...his first stop in the U.S. is probably going to be across 
>the desk from Jay Leno on the Tonight Show...

That, or Monster Garage  :o)))))))))))))))

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
===================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:28:52 -0500
From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: TH 300 vs TH 400

Is this car stock? Personally, if it was me, I would figure out what the
problem is with the TH-2004R and fix it. It is a good trans for anything
from stock 15-16 second vehicles down to 10 second vehicles (with mods of
course).

You'll likely lose some off the line umph since a TH-400 and TH-350 both
have lower (numerically) 1st gear ratio's. The TH-2004R has a 2.74:1 first
gear compared to the TH-400's 2.48 and the TH-350's 2.52. Plus you have over
drive which will allow you to run a higher (numerically) rear gear and still
live with it on the interstate and daily driving compared to a 3 speed
trans.

I run a worked over TH-2004R in my '87 with a 3.73 rear gear and turn around
2200rpm@60mph. If my trans had a lockup converter it would only be around
1900rpm. As compared to the TH-400/TH-350 trans's which would be turning (in
my cars current setup) about 3000rpm@60mph.

Check out this site: www.2004r.com
They have kits that allow you to run a TH-2004R without the computer. My
brother uses a B&M kit on his TH-2004R behind his non-computer controlled
403 and works great. It does everything automatically based on the speed of
the vehicle. They're not too cheap but really work well and I think would be
a better solution than swapping in a TH-400/TH-350.
Here is the lockup kit my brother is using:

http://www.bmracing.com/products/kits_transControl/convLockupCont.html


As for doing harm to the transmission, I don't know if anyone has actually
PROVEN it to do harm. Most transmission places like the one listed above
will tell you to not unhook it but I know of plenty of people who have
unhooked the lockup control without any adverse effects. But if you have it,
and its working, I would keep it.

Just my opinion,

Andrew Geeting
geeting@woh.rr.com
'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf

What is the difference between these two trannies? Still in my anti-computer
controlled car quest, decided to give up the 200r-4 due to confusing TCC
conditions. I do not want the manual switch and I kinda ascertained it would
do harm to tranny without it. BTW it will go into an 88 CSCB if that matters

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 12:45:19 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Fuel Pumps & Regulator query(s)

All,
	I'm planning on installing an electric fuel pump in the '70 shortly.  As I understand it, you want the electric pump to push the fluid, so it should be installed back by the tank.  Correct?

1.  Where?  On the Frame? (Any reason to use rubber insulators between pump & MATL?)
2.  Any specific brand suggestions & P/Ns for the pump?
3.  Would you want to install a filter before or after, or both?
4.  Would you install a fuel pressure regulator inline prior to carburetor inlet?
5.  What is recommended carbureted fuel pressure?
6.  Again, any specific brand suggestion for the fuel PSI regulator?


Thanks again!


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:51:38 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: silly gas tank question  - Inline Tube

  Hey John
  I have heard the samething!
john orr
67 cutlass supreme

> > 
> Hey list
>      For what its worth the toro list guys have nothing nice to say 
> about inline tube. I have no personal experience with them just passing 
> on a warning
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 14:07:08 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: silly gas tank question  - Inline Tube

I got my tranny lines & vac modulator line from them. No complaints here.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of JOHN ORR
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 1:52 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: silly gas tank question - Inline Tube

  Hey John
  I have heard the samething!
john orr
67 cutlass supreme

> >
> Hey list
>      For what its worth the toro list guys have nothing nice to say
> about inline tube. I have no personal experience with them just passing
> on a warning
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 12:36:35 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations

Steve,

> 1.  Heat Treated Oil Pump Driveshaft

Milodon, the only choice. Available from a good speed shop or order direct.

> 2.  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear

Stay with the stock gear. It will match your cam shaft material correctly. I
assume you are using a standard cast iron billet canshaft. If the stock gear
is worn for some reason, replace with a stock GM Olds gear.

> 3.  ARP Head Bolts
> 4.  ARP Main Bolts

Order them through any good speed shop in your area. You might call ARP and
may be able to order direct.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 12:51:02 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pumps & Regulator query(s)

Steve,

> I'm planning on installing an electric fuel pump in the '70 shortly.


Good.


> As I understand it, you want the electric pump to push the fluid, so it
should be installed back by the tank.  Correct?


Yes.


> 1.  Where?  On the Frame? (Any reason to use rubber insulators between
pump & MATL?)


Yes, the frame rail beside the gas tank, or as close as you can get. If you
buy a Carter/Sealed Power/Federal Mogul electric fuel pump, it will mount in
rubber gromets on its mounting bracket. I can't remember if Holleys do the
same thing or not.


> 2.  Any specific brand suggestions & P/Ns for the pump?


Carter #P4594 @ 72 gallons per hour @ 7 psi.
or
Carter #P4600HP @ 100 gallons per hour @ 7 psi.


> 3.  Would you want to install a filter before or after, or both?


Use a metal can 3/8" inline fuel filter both before the fuel pump and before
the carb. You must protect both.


> 4.  Would you install a fuel pressure regulator inline prior to carburetor
inlet?


No, not with a Carter. The Carter electric fuel pumps are perfectly self
regulated. Their stated psi is what they deliver. Any good carb needle and
seat is perfectly happy with 7 psi.

With a Holley, it's a different ballgame. A Holley needs a regulator. In my
past experience, one out of every two Holley regulators malfunction, sooner
or later. It's not worth it. Let the fuel pump regulate the pressure, if
it's designed correctly. Notice how I said that. Carters are designed
correctly.


> 5.  What is recommended carbureted fuel pressure?


7 psi.


> 6.  Again, any specific brand suggestion for the fuel PSI regulator?


I've never found one that I'd trust.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:51:35 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please

Regarding the ammeter wiring, it is a good idea to install 
a fuse or a circuit breaker in the wire going to the ammeter. 
I learned this the hard way when my brother-in-law's '68 GTO 
caught fire on a camping trip. The alternator shorted out, 
causing the ammeter wiring to heat up to the point that it ignited 
something under the dash. This was when I also learned that a well 
shaken can of beer makes a great fire extinguisher ;)

On my last ammeter installation, I used two parallel 30 Amp inline 
fuse holders, installed at the end of the battery cable accessory 
lead (as close to the battery as possible). I would have preferred 
to use a single 60 Amp fuse, but while I found the fuse, I could not 
locate an appropriate fuse holder for it. Maybe there is something 
available these days, though.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible 
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 21:02:36 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

>After being returned to Cuba only a few months ago, I'm wondering
>why Castro's flunkies didn't imprison him to begin with, for trying
>to "escape". Why'd they let him back into public: after all, his
>previous escape attempts would have provided an incentive to others.

Good point.

>Clearly, he had lots of time on his hands to get that '59 Buick prepared
>for its watery trip. I mean, consider: not only having to seal the
>cabin to keep the car from sinking, but also waterproofing the ignition
>and carb intake system. Lots more work musta gone into that car than
>is obvious on the surface. You did notice the wedge that had been
>crafted for the front of the car to cut through the waves, right?

Not only that, but he painted it to match! (Or maybe painted the car to 
match the bow; it does _not_ look like an official 1959 Buick shade, 
although if "Seafoam Green" was available I'm sure he would have chosen 
that.)

>Someone really outta crucify the Coast Guard commander who ordered
>the car sunk; it would have been a really interesting thing to examine.
>Heck: the Coasties could probably have made money on it just hauling
>it around the country on a show n' tell   ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

I wasn't aware that they'd sunk the car, although I know they sunk the truck 
as a "hazard to navigation" or some such nonsense. (I mean, good grief, if 
it's made it that far without sinking, throw a rope around it and tow it the 
rest of the way.)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee. 
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 21:41:29 +0000
From: joevitek@comcast.net
Subject: Coast Guard (was Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!)

> (I mean, good grief, if it's made it that far without sinking, throw a
> rope around it and tow it the rest of the way.)

Yeah, and keep from spilling gasoline, oil, antifreeze, etc.

Dumb bastids.

- --
joe vitek

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 16:09:39 -0600
From: Rick Kromeich <wlrk06@email.mot.com>
Subject: 350 rebuild advice needed

Hey gang,

Been in stealth mode for awhile.  But, my 350 in my 72 Cutlass hardtop
is going to get a minor rebuild to make it streetable for this Spring.
I want to replace, pushrods,lifters,rockers, cam, timing chain set, and
camshaft, and gaskets of course.  Looking to probably bump up the cam a
little, but nothing too radical.  I am looking for any
recomendations/tips/useful info.  Who is the best/cheapest source for
mostly stock parts?  Thinking Mr. Witt has some recent experience in a
350 build, mine won't be anywhere near as complete, looking to keep the
costs down, while factoring in reliability and street driving.  Might
throw a set of headers and dual exhaust if possible.

Thanks for any and all advice/pointers.

As always, in digest mode so replies are a little slow....

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Supreme Conv't
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 17:11:07 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: TH 300 vs TH 400

- --part1_59.489fe5e.2d54197b_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 2/5/2004 12:42:52 PM Central Standard Time, 
geeting@woh.rr.com writes:


> They have kits that allow you to run a TH-2004R without the computer

Nothing wrong with tranny. Only got 40k miles on new rebuild. This is what I 
was wanting to do. Thanks for the link

- --part1_59.489fe5e.2d54197b_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/5/2004 12:42:52 PM Central Standard Time, geeting@woh.rr.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">They have kits that allow y=
ou to run a TH-2004R without the computer</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BAC=
K=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMIL=
Y=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR>Nothing wrong with tranny. Only got 40k miles on new rebuild. This is wh=
at I was wanting to do. Thanks for the link</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_59.489fe5e.2d54197b_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 16:15:46 -0600
From: "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Battery Web Page

Go to Antique Auto Battery, www.antiqueautobattery.com and choose the
battery you need.

Dan Bodine
70 W31 4 Speed
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 14:31:13 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

On Wed, Feb 04, 2004 at 11:59:36PM -0500, Stephen Amadei wrote:
> On Thu, 5 Feb 2004, Steve Harrison wrote:
> > I had a feeling this might have something to do with the '51 Ch*bby pickup
> > that the Coast Guard machine-gunned to death the last year; seems this car
> > was built by the same guy who built the truck  ;o(((((((
> 
> I think next time they should try a Oldsmobile Submarine.  ;-)

Ted Kennedy tried that once; it didn't work out too well.

(Killing Oldsmobiles is yet another reason to dislike the Swimmer. :-P )

  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
 / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
 \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 23:10:29 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Coast Guard (was Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!)

At 09:41 PM 2/5/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>> (I mean, good grief, if it's made it that far without sinking, throw a
>> rope around it and tow it the rest of the way.)
>
>Yeah, and keep from spilling gasoline, oil, antifreeze, etc.

Uhh... I bet the only antifreeze they have in Cuba is rum  :o))))))))))))))

>Dumb bastids.

Totally  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 19:30:44 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Used head bolts

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 00:18:09 -0500
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: Head Bolts or Studs

My 455 short block is almost done at the machine shop but I do not seem to
be able to find new head bolts. I won't reuse the old bolts
- ----------
That's absurd.
How do you imagine that most engines get repaired?
With a few exceptions of Torque-to-Yield designs, all bolts are re-usable. 
Are you buying all new rod bolts, main bolts, oil pump bolts, water pump 
bolts, flexplate bolts, etc. as well? Getting new electrons the electrical 
system too? :-)

and would like to go to studs but can't find either that have the longer 
front bolts for
the accessories on the front of the engine. ARP tech support said that they
don't have anything and my local Olds dealer said that the head bolts are
discontinued.
============
Looks like you will either be re-using time-tested and proven reliable 
correct factory fasteners, or doing without accessory brackets, then.

Anyone have a suggestion. Reusing bolts with 130k and 35 years of temp
cycling is not a option.

TIA
Jack
============
Mileage has nothing whatsoever to do with a used bolt's serviceability. Nor 
does the amount of temp cycling it has endured. Maybe you can get your old 
ones re-heat treated and cryogenically frozen by Mondello...
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Find great local high-speed Internet access value at the MSN High-Speed 
Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 19:49:12 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Used head bolts

Most Ford applications recommend using new head bolts, mostly because the
heads and/or block are aluminum. I'm doing heads on a Mustang 5.0 with steel
heads and block.
There are not any head bolts available as a common stocking invoice from the
local parts store. Therefore, re-use the old ones. From someone who does
head gaskets 2-3 times a week, if the bolts are available when doing the top
end. Buy them, It's a cheap easy way to apply the correct torque to a new
top end.

Pat.





- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 7:30 PM
Subject: Used head bolts


> Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 00:18:09 -0500
> From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
> Subject: Head Bolts or Studs
>
> My 455 short block is almost done at the machine shop but I do not seem to
> be able to find new head bolts. I won't reuse the old bolts
> ----------
> That's absurd.
> How do you imagine that most engines get repaired?
> With a few exceptions of Torque-to-Yield designs, all bolts are re-usable.
> Are you buying all new rod bolts, main bolts, oil pump bolts, water pump
> bolts, flexplate bolts, etc. as well? Getting new electrons the electrical
> system too? :-)
>
> and would like to go to studs but can't find either that have the longer
> front bolts for
> the accessories on the front of the engine. ARP tech support said that
they
> don't have anything and my local Olds dealer said that the head bolts are
> discontinued.
> ============
> Looks like you will either be re-using time-tested and proven reliable
> correct factory fasteners, or doing without accessory brackets, then.
>
> Anyone have a suggestion. Reusing bolts with 130k and 35 years of temp
> cycling is not a option.
>
> TIA
> Jack
> ============
> Mileage has nothing whatsoever to do with a used bolt's serviceability.
Nor
> does the amount of temp cycling it has endured. Maybe you can get your old
> ones re-heat treated and cryogenically frozen by Mondello...
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find great local high-speed Internet access value at the MSN High-Speed
> Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 01:22:19 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Head Bolts or Studs

At 10:50 PM 2/4/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>He's talking about the head bolts that are a bolt complete with head, but
>>also have a stud on the "topside" under which accessory brackets and
>>battery negative cables are bolted, like this:
>>http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/Tech/Head_ID.jpg
>
>STEVE! *You* should know better dude! The battery negative is bolted to the 
>front facing side of the head with a bolt!

Here's a pic showing the battery negative cable bolted under the nut on the
stud on the head bolt just above the head ID letter of my '88 307. As I
said earlier, I've seen this on almost every other Olds engine I've looked
at for '70s/'80s eras.
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/HeadBolt-Stud-a.jpg

Clearly, my engine's due for a cleanup  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 20:35:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Amadei <amadei@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

On Thu, 5 Feb 2004, Andrew C. Green wrote:

> Y'know, if he ever does make it over here (and I wouldn't be surprised if
> strings are being pulled _somewhere_ to enable that; Castro might let him go
> just to avoid further embarrassing publicity), his first stop in the U.S. is
> probably going to be across the desk from Jay Leno on the Tonight Show...

Put him on Monster Garage!

					----Steve
Stephen Amadei
Dandy.NET!  CTO
Atlantic City, NJ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 20:31:51 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations

  dave smith engineering as well. he did wounders when he was with kenny bell in late 80's
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
  To: "Olds (E-mail)" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Cc: "Old Car Network-Sales (E-mail)" <sales@oldcarnetwork.com>
  Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 1:34 PM
  Subject: Best OLDS Specific Supplier recommendations


  > All,
  > I'm putting together my list of goodies to buy with my tax refund to make my 455 even more rock
solid.
  > Does anyone have any suggestions for specific suppliers for these Olds parts:
  >
  > 1.  Heat Treated Oil Pump Driveshaft
  > 2.  Hardened Distributor Drive Gear
  > 3.  ARP Head Bolts
  > 4.  ARP Main Bolts
  >
  >
  > I don't need too many more items, just a few.
  >
  > Dick Miller Racing??
  >
  > John Nasta Do you Carry these items?
  >
  > Steve Reed
  > '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
  > '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
  > '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
  > Austin, TX
  > http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html
  >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 21:07:28 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pumps & Regulator query(s)

Milton,

> Steve,

> > I'm planning on installing an electric fuel pump in the '70 shortly.
> 
> 
> Good.
> 
> 
> > As I understand it, you want the electric pump to push the 
> fluid, so 
> > it
> should be installed back by the tank.  Correct?
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> > 1.  Where?  On the Frame? (Any reason to use rubber 
> insulators between
> pump & MATL?)
> 
> 
> Yes, the frame rail beside the gas tank, or as close as you 
> can get. If you buy a Carter/Sealed Power/Federal Mogul 
> electric fuel pump, it will mount in rubber gromets on its 
> mounting bracket. I can't remember if Holleys do the same 
> thing or not.
> 
> 
> > 2.  Any specific brand suggestions & P/Ns for the pump?
> 
> 
> Carter #P4594 @ 72 gallons per hour @ 7 psi.
> or
> Carter #P4600HP @ 100 gallons per hour @ 7 psi.
> 
> 
> > 3.  Would you want to install a filter before or after, or both?
> 
> 
> Use a metal can 3/8" inline fuel filter both before the fuel 
> pump and before the carb. You must protect both.
> 
> 
> > 4.  Would you install a fuel pressure regulator inline prior to 
> > carburetor
> inlet?
> 
> 
> No, not with a Carter. The Carter electric fuel pumps are 
> perfectly self regulated. Their stated psi is what they 
> deliver. Any good carb needle and seat is perfectly happy with 7 psi.
> 
> With a Holley, it's a different ballgame. A Holley needs a 
> regulator. In my past experience, one out of every two Holley 
> regulators malfunction, sooner or later. It's not worth it. 
> Let the fuel pump regulate the pressure, if it's designed 
> correctly. Notice how I said that. Carters are designed correctly.
> 
> 
> > 5.  What is recommended carbureted fuel pressure?
> 
> 
> 7 psi.
> 
> 
> > 6.  Again, any specific brand suggestion for the fuel PSI regulator?
> 
> 
> I've never found one that I'd trust.
> 
> Milton Schick


Thanks for all the info.  As you may recall I am going to be using the
Edelbrock carb you suggested with my 455 assembly.


Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:23:12 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Head Bolts or Studs

Steve is correct; on the 307s, the negative cable bolted to the head stud,
earlier cars, such as my 71 Cutlass, originally had it located on a bolt to
the front of the head.

Chris
- ----- Original Message -----
> >>He's talking about the head bolts that are a bolt complete with head,
but
> >>also have a stud on the "topside" under which accessory brackets and
> >>battery negative cables are bolted, like this:
> >>http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/Tech/Head_ID.jpg
> >
> >STEVE! *You* should know better dude! The battery negative is bolted to
the
> >front facing side of the head with a bolt!
>
> Here's a pic showing the battery negative cable bolted under the nut on
the
> stud on the head bolt just above the head ID letter of my '88 307. As I
> said earlier, I've seen this on almost every other Olds engine I've looked
> at for '70s/'80s eras.
> http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/HeadBolt-Stud-a.jpg
>
> Clearly, my engine's due for a cleanup  ;o\
>
> SteveH
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 22:18:35 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: OEM Head Studs/Bolts Continued.....

All,
	After reading the thread on Olds cylinder head bolts being no longer
available from GM got me to thinking.
	I replaced the Grade-5 exhaust manifold bolts W/a GM upgrade to
Grade-8, on my daily driver.  I have in front of me a 3/8-16X1" stud into
the head W/ a 3/8-16X1" Stud length, Black Zinc Finish, Grade 8, GM P/N:
10242055.

I bet there are still fasteners that would work from other divisions of GM.
It's just finding out what would exchange would be a chore though, I'd
imagine.

Anyway, I know that the head bolt was a 7/16" but this is a great example of
the availability under a different G.M. manufacturer.


Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 21:45:35 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: OEM Head Studs/Bolts Continued.....

Like I said before, there is a small block Chevy head bolt and a big block
Chevy head bolt that's correct for an Olds. Between the 2, one can get a
full head bolt set for an Olds, not counting the head bolts with top studs.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

> I bet there are still fasteners that would work from other divisions of
GM.
> It's just finding out what would exchange would be a chore though, I'd
> imagine.
>
> Anyway, I know that the head bolt was a 7/16" but this is a great example
of
> the availability under a different G.M. manufacturer.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 23:59:59 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Olds engine Bolts set for cheap

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2458736197&category=33620

There ya go, brand new bolts for the whole engine for cheap

I asked him about boltstuds a while back, why not make them too, corner the 
market... he said basically not cost effective, bolt makers I guess require 
a min. run of like 100,000 units. The demand is not there, or so they feel.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Click here for a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee. 
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 00:06:54 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: new almost factory type  head bolts

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457942229&category=33620

nearly factory type, affordable.

I see they still cannot be bothered to show an actual Oldsmobile Bolt Set in 
the Oldsmobile Bolts ads. Crikey.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Let the advanced features & services of MSN Internet Software maximize your 
online time. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200363ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:34:23 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: new almost factory type  head bolts

Notice that these E-bay head bolts have a straight shank. GM head bolts have
a bolt bore size diameter for about 3/8" under the head, then the shank
necks down about 0.020" all the way down to the threads, which have an outer
diameter equal to the bolt bore size.

I have been told in the past the reason for the slight diameter reduction is
to prevent unequal expansion interference on a very hot engine between the
alloy steel in the bolt and the cast iron of the head. So, what happens
under extreme heat between a head bolt that has shank contact for the full
length of the bolt bore verses a GM head bolt that doesn't have bolt shank
contact for the full length of the bolt bore?

I used all allen cap screws in Thunder's first engine, the first 482. I
switched back to stock style head bolts and main cap bolts, with shank
reduction, for the second and third engines.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 07:50:51 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

America, the land of oportunity. the only country you can rape our women,
pillage, and still get to keep your life. Send him back.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Amadei" <amadei@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!


> On Thu, 5 Feb 2004, Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> > Y'know, if he ever does make it over here (and I wouldn't be surprised
if
> > strings are being pulled _somewhere_ to enable that; Castro might let
him go
> > just to avoid further embarrassing publicity), his first stop in the
U.S. is
> > probably going to be across the desk from Jay Leno on the Tonight
Show...
>
> Put him on Monster Garage!
>
> ----Steve
> Stephen Amadei
> Dandy.NET!  CTO
> Atlantic City, NJ
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 08:26:21 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: VIN-9 CAMSHAFT- not today I guess. 

Well, dang
That "VIN-9 307" I bought the other day?

Funny it had a cast iron lower pulley, like a diesel... and #16 large port 
intake on 7A small nostril heads...

turns out to be a 350 gas engine. Thus the rubberized balancer I guess.
Have to part it out....
Carb 7056253, looks pretty good
HEI dist for cheap if ya need one
Timing cover, balancer
Crank might OK, might even be recent regrind, polish and use.

Might be rebuilt inside, haven't opened it yet.
No roller cam though.

While no Solid Main Web 403, the slippery VIN-9 engine proves still elusive, 
a worthy opponent!
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

>From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
>To: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: RS has used VIN-9 CAMSHAFT per ROP.com notice
>Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 16:09:24 -0500
>
>Chris,
>Thanks for the response. How much $$$, if it's a true blue VIN 9 cam?
>Thanks,
>Chris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>To: <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 9:58 AM
>Subject: RS has used VIN-9 CAMSHAFT per ROP.com notice
>
>
>I just acquired a 1986 442 VIN-9 motor yesterday
>at least I think it is
>has 7A heads, carb #17056253 [? last 3 digits], rubberized harmonic damper
>per VIN-9 specs, cast iron lower [crank] pulley, but...
>
>Iron #16 4-bbl intake ???
>Rockers have been off, timing cover too.
>Not 100% sure it's bone stock inside.
>Might get to dismantle it today.
>
>Call or write for discussions of the cam I guess.
>
>=========================\
>[quote="jade71ragtop"][b]A-body parts I need for the 71:[/b]
>
>- Uncut black instrument panel (the center plastic, not the dash pad)
>- 2 Cutlass emblems, 71-72, in nice shape.
>- Power window and lock setup
>- Undented TH-400 transmission pan
>
>
>Stuff I'd like, but don't want to pay to have shipped:
>- Right front fender
>- Pair of rear quarters for Supreme
>- 455 crankshaft (not sure if I need one yet??)
>- Any big block heads but J!
>
>- Late B-body EFI fuel tank
>
>[b]G-body parts I need for the 87:[/b]
>
>- Used VIN 9 442 roller cam
>
>- OEM shifter handle, any color will do - Don't need the chrome stalk, only
>the plastic piece itself
>
>- TAN upper door panels (anything that says Cutlass will do, needs to be 
>for
>power windows), dashboard and sunvisors.
>
>- RIGHT 87-88 headlight and turn signal lens. Doesn't matter what condition
>as long as there are no holes and it transmits light.
>
>- T-top headliner backing, but I don't know if it can be shipped???
>
>- Passenger door snake blinder (wide chrome molding).
>
>- Not sure if these come off easily, but I also need a few of the "pancake"
>type fasteners (large metal circles) that hold the chrome onto the door and
>the front of the quarter.
>
>- Third brake light if it's cheap, otherwise I'll leave it broke!
>
>I'm in the NE Ohio area.
>
>Please email at fastcarson@prodigy.net
>
>Chris
>87 Cutlass Supreme T-top 307
>71 Cutlass Supreme conv. 455
>[b][/b][/quote]
>
>-----------------------
>Chris Witt
>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>Lansing MI 48911
>
>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software - optimizes dial-up to the 
>max!
>    http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1
>

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4767
*********************************
