
oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, February 25 2004    Volume 01 : Number 4792



Re: shake?
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
RE:  shake?
Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)
Re: seatbelts
RE: 442 spotted in London
Re: 442 spotted in London
Re: 442 spotted in London
Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)
Re: shake?
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Anyone running 16" wheels?
Re: 442 spotted in London
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)
Re: shake?
New Olds friend needs '68 Cutlass RH fender
Re: shake?
Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: shake?
RE: 442 spotted in London
Re: Friction and gravity
Re: magnetic oil filters

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 12:35:08 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

Hey JB,
    The drive shaft is the same for th350 jetaway m20 and m21 for the mst
part. Car shakes while driving and just sitting, so that makes me think that
something is off balance.
john


> does the shake occur while driving? if so, could be driveline angle
related.
> I say this because I'm sure you had to shorten the drive shaft for the
> 4speed auto to fit.
>
> JB Schuren
> 71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
> 03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
> http://foggy.audioguy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:39:11 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

On Feb 23, 2004, at 11:11 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 22:09:53 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?
>
> Joe,
>
> Why not fight fire with fire? Screw the Gestapo.
>
>> Now, I know that my car will be exempt from inspection with the QQ 
>> plates,
>
> Then you're one step ahead of them. You're home free.
>
>> The 1972 engine does not have an EGR valve,
>
> Put a fake EGR valve on, one that doesn't work and is blocked off
> underneath. No one will ever know but you. Remember, no one can take a
> wrench to your engine to look, not without a search warrant from a 
> judge. No
> judge in his right mind would even bother.

What Milton said. Use a later-model intake with the EGR pad, and block 
that sucker off. I thought that the small blocks started using EGR in 
'71 or '72, didn't they? Dunno about big blocks.
>
>> and I had not originally
>> planned on putting catalytic converters on it.
>
> Put aftermarket dual cats on, that have had their guts removed. No one 
> will
> ever know.

I wouldn't bother to gut them. Modern honeycomb cats of sufficient size 
pose very little restriction. Certainly less than a quiet muffler. Just 
get decent-sized ones and they'll flow great. Not only that, they'll 
actually be working, which you can feel good about! :)
May even be able to get away with less muffler with the cats helping 
kill the noise... depends on the cat, I guess.
>
>> But is simply having the older engine in there illegal?
>
> Take your 455 and grind off every single indentifying stamped number 
> and
> casting number on the entire engine. Then let someone try and 
> indentify it.
> My 403 engine core from the '77 Toronado has had the block and heads 
> prepped
> this way, while I was deburring everything. If they can't tell what the
> engine is, they'll just have to take your word for it.

Perfect!
>
>>  He did say he wasn't sure, but thought that technically, if a police
>> officer decided to do an "on-the-spot" inspection, I could possibly be
>> cited for tampering violations.
>
> Fine, let the cop look away. He won't be able to fine anything, unless 
> he
> feels like disassembling your engine. He doesn't have the authority or
> probable cause to do that.

I sure wish they'd let the police go capture thieves and killers rather 
than farting around with this sort of stuff...
>
> Milton Schick
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 12:44:34 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

Warped or unbalanced flywheel/conveter?
Just a thought.
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: shake?


> Hey JB,
>     The drive shaft is the same for th350 jetaway m20 and m21 for the mst
> part. Car shakes while driving and just sitting, so that makes me think
that
> something is off balance.
> john
>
>
> > does the shake occur while driving? if so, could be driveline angle
> related.
> > I say this because I'm sure you had to shorten the drive shaft for the
> > 4speed auto to fit.
> >
> > JB Schuren
> > 71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
> > 03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
> > http://foggy.audioguy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 10:59:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

John,


#1 > have a pretty good shake going on. It begains around 2 grand and levels
out
> a little
> at higher rpm.

& #2 > needs a carb and spark plugs, the car has been setting in a
warehouse, and
> only driven in and out for the last year or so.


#1 - If the engine is now out of balance, 2000 RPM would make sense for the
first harmonic vibration point, which will smooth out leading up to the
second harmonic vibration point at around 5500-6000.

#2 - Yes, bad plugs that are carboned up could cause the exact same feel.

Other items that might contribute:
1) If the driveshaft had to be lengthened or shortened, was it rebalanced
properly.
2) Did you reuse the old U-joints? They could be bad and showing up better
with a solid driveline.
3) Was the clutch pressure plate properly balanced by the manufacturer?
4) Is there excessive runout on the transmission input shaft?
5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced flywheel
for your application?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 13:02:15 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

Hey Pat,
   Flywheel, is billet steel and was trimed when  I got the new clutch kit.
No conveter on this one... :-)
john


> Warped or unbalanced flywheel/conveter?
> Just a thought.
> Pat.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:11:42 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

> I wouldn't bother to gut them. Modern honeycomb cats of sufficient size
> pose very little restriction. Certainly less than a quiet muffler. Just
> get decent-sized ones and they'll flow great. Not only that, they'll
> actually be working, which you can feel good about! :)
> May even be able to get away with less muffler with the cats helping
> kill the noise... depends on the cat, I guess.


I just have to disagree with this about cats. The internal honeycomb **is**
a restriction. As the years go buy and the carbon builds up and bakes into
the honeycomb, the restriction *will* get worse. Gut the cats.

'76 Impala 350/TH350, stock engine except for the Edelbrock intake and
Carter 600 CFM AFB, fake EGR, fake vapor recovery canister with a gas tank
vent hidden under the car, dual exhaust with gutted cats and a "H" pipe,
tuned to 1965 300HP 327 specs, and passed Arizona emissions with flying
colors every single time, until the engine died an unnatural death from
eating way too much unleaded fuel.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:15:18 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

John,

>    Flywheel, is billet steel and was trimed when  I got the new clutch
kit.

billet steel? It's aftermarket? Did they build the external balance
counterweight into the engine side of the flywheel?????

trimmed?????????

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 13:39:32 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

Hey Milton,
   Glad to hear from you!

Subject: Re: shake?


.
> Other items that might contribute:

> 1) If the driveshaft had to be lengthened or shortened, was it rebalanced
> properly.

     No, did not rebalance the drive shaft, the drive shaft was a perfect
fit.

> 2) Did you reuse the old U-joints? They could be bad and showing up better
> with a solid driveline.

     The U-joints are not that old, and all was very tight... I was very
happy abou the way the car ran,  very solid feeling, no leaks from the
tranny, or anywhere else for that matter.

> 3) Was the clutch pressure plate properly balanced by the manufacturer?

       The clutch kit came from the best clutch place in Tampa FL... they
have
been around forever and everybody goes to them. Very helpful when I told
them
what I was doing. As for trimming the flywheel, better to have said
resurface the face.

> 4) Is there excessive runout on the transmission input shaft?

      Sorry to ask this, but run out?

 5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced flywheel
> for your application?

     Yes, came from 67 442

>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com

     thanks for everybody's help,
john

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 14:08:29 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

Hey Guys,

        Would a harmonic balancer be an issue ???

The General

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: shake?


> Hey Milton,
>    Glad to hear from you!
>
> Subject: Re: shake?
>
>
> .
> > Other items that might contribute:
>
> > 1) If the driveshaft had to be lengthened or shortened, was it
rebalanced
> > properly.
>
>      No, did not rebalance the drive shaft, the drive shaft was a perfect
> fit.
>
> > 2) Did you reuse the old U-joints? They could be bad and showing up
better
> > with a solid driveline.
>
>      The U-joints are not that old, and all was very tight... I was very
> happy abou the way the car ran,  very solid feeling, no leaks from the
> tranny, or anywhere else for that matter.
>
> > 3) Was the clutch pressure plate properly balanced by the manufacturer?
>
>        The clutch kit came from the best clutch place in Tampa FL... they
> have
> been around forever and everybody goes to them. Very helpful when I told
> them
> what I was doing. As for trimming the flywheel, better to have said
> resurface the face.
>
> > 4) Is there excessive runout on the transmission input shaft?
>
>       Sorry to ask this, but run out?
>
>  5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced flywheel
> > for your application?
>
>      Yes, came from 67 442
>
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
>
>      thanks for everybody's help,
> john
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 13:13:46 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: RE:  shake?

John,

>Hey List,
>Last week-end I did the auto to 4 speed swap in my 67 cutlass supreme, I
>now
>have a pretty good shake going on. It begains around 2 grand and levels out
>a little at higher rpm.
>Here is what I have.....   some will remember my questions in the past
>about H.B.
>for the 330 and 350's... I have a 330 crank and it is set up for manual
>tranns. it is a
>350 block from a 72, 7a heads 4 barrel set up. So my question is what should
>I look for as to why it should be shaking after the swap, I would like to
>think that it
>needs a carb and spark plugs, the car has been setting in a warehouse, and
>only driven in and out for the last year or so.
>Any help would be great.
>thanks
>john
>67 cutlass supreme...

The first thing I'd check would be the transmission tail stock bushing for the driveshaft yoke.  Mine was wasted when I first bought my Cutlass.  Of sourse check U-Joints, and also the driveshaft balance.


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 14:27:20 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)

- --part1_10f.2c8c5ed5.2d6cff98_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 2/23/04 9:14:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,  IDixon@sbrc.ca
writes:

> >My partially dissembled '66 425 is giving me fits.  It had been stored
>  >for 15 years indoors. I'm well into the dissembly.  The short block is
>  >on the engine stand. However the points distributor (rusted to bits,
>  >essentially junk and I was going to huck it into the garbage upon
>  >removal) refused to budge when I tried to turn/remove it: I mean this
>  >thing is STUCK.  I knew it was going to be a bear, so I soaked the whole
>  >mess in penetrant for a week.  I tried turning it one way then the
>  >other. Nada.  Added more muscle. Nothing.  One more time - BANG.  The
>  >aluminum housing cracked off about an inch and a half above the base?!?!
>  >MAN. Chock one up for gorilla mechanics, and this gorilla is endowed
>  >with the touch of a blacksmith

Ian,
      This won't help with your present problem, as others have already 
replied with suggestions that should get you through that, but my suggestion should 
alleviate future stuck distributors.  Put a thin coating of a good anti-seize 
on the distributor before installing it.  Anti-seize is the best stuff in the 
world for keeping things removable, just make sure you don't pet the dog 
after using anti-seize.  If you ever tried the stuff before you will know why.
Good luck,
Steve

- --part1_10f.2c8c5ed5.2d6cff98_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 2/23/04 9:14:11=20=
PM Pacific Standard Time,&nbsp; IDixon@sbrc.ca<BR>
writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt;My partially dissembled '66=
 425 is giving me fits.&nbsp; It had been stored<BR>
 &gt;for 15 years indoors. I'm well into the dissembly.&nbsp; The short bloc=
k is<BR>
 &gt;on the engine stand. However the points distributor (rusted to bits,<BR=
>
 &gt;essentially junk and I was going to huck it into the garbage upon<BR>
 &gt;removal) refused to budge when I tried to turn/remove it: I mean this<B=
R>
 &gt;thing is STUCK.&nbsp; I knew it was going to be a bear, so I soaked the=
 whole<BR>
 &gt;mess in penetrant for a week.&nbsp; I tried turning it one way then the=
<BR>
 &gt;other. Nada.&nbsp; Added more muscle. Nothing.&nbsp; One more time - BA=
NG.&nbsp; The<BR>
 &gt;aluminum housing cracked off about an inch and a half above the base?!?=
!<BR>
 &gt;MAN. Chock one up for gorilla mechanics, and this gorilla is endowed<BR=
>
 &gt;with the touch of a blacksmith</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Ian,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This won't help with your present problem, as=
 others have already replied with suggestions that should get you through th=
at, but my suggestion should alleviate future stuck distributors.&nbsp; Put=20=
a thin coating of a good anti-seize on the distributor before installing it.=
&nbsp; Anti-seize is the best stuff in the world for keeping things removabl=
e, just make sure you don't pet the dog after using anti-seize.&nbsp; If you=
 ever tried the stuff before you will know why.<BR>
Good luck,<BR>
Steve</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_10f.2c8c5ed5.2d6cff98_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 14:33:43 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: seatbelts

In a message dated 2/24/04 9:44:33 AM Central Standard Time, 
krwright@sbcglobal.net writes:
- -- Schroth (pronounced "shrote") harnesses are DOT-legal.
http://www.soloracer.com/harnschrothfaq.html --

Schroth belts are FIA certified -- any belt used in F1 has to be FIA 
certified.  In SCCA competition these are allowed 5 years before they have to be 
rewebbed or replaced.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 20:27:07 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 442 spotted in London

>The 442 lettering on the door from I'm guessing a 76 442.  I remember
>it was brown, but it happened so fast and I was SOOOO shocked to see
>a car like that I was dumbfounded.  I'm assuming it was standard LH drive
>and wasn't coverted but it was cool nonetheless.

Back when I was living in Cambridge (1979-1981) we'd see American cars all 
the time; apparently the local Air Force base was able to fly them in if the 
servicepeople had the right connections to be able to roll their car into an 
unused spot on the transport plane.

There were a few GM models for which you could buy a right-hand drive 
variant in England, including a Pontiac Trans Am, of all things; there was 
(and maybe still is) a Pontiac dealership in London. I also saw some 
American cars that were left-hand drive but carried slightly re-engineered 
hardware for Europe, such as yellow headlamps on exports to the French 
market. I once saw a 1975 Monte Carlo where the upper half of each taillamp 
was molded in amber instead of red as a separate turn signal to meet British 
regs, something the U.S. Montes never had.

One thing very few American cars could accommodate across the back was the 
huge British license plate, maybe twice as wide as American ones, so they'd 
shoehorn in a plate with the license numbers in two rows. Look at the back 
of American cars these days and you'll see a lot fewer with recessed plate 
holders, so there's a bit less to re-engineer if they want to sell their 
cars overseas to a wider market.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide. 
http://special.msn.com/home/firsthome.armx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 13:55:34 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: 442 spotted in London

On Tue, Feb 24, 2004 at 08:27:07PM +0000, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> >The 442 lettering on the door from I'm guessing a 76 442.  I remember
> >it was brown, but it happened so fast and I was SOOOO shocked to see
> >a car like that I was dumbfounded.  I'm assuming it was standard LH drive
> >and wasn't coverted but it was cool nonetheless.
> 
> Back when I was living in Cambridge (1979-1981) we'd see American cars all 
> the time; apparently the local Air Force base was able to fly them in if 
> the servicepeople had the right connections to be able to roll their car 
> into an unused spot on the transport plane.

They didn't get flown over; they were sent overseas by boat.  When we headed
over to England in 1984 (RAF Upper Heyford, more specifically), Dad removed
the catalytic converter and fuel-inlet restrictor from our '80 Chevette (you
couldn't get unleaded fuel there at the time) and had it loaded onto the
boat.  Those items were put back on when we returned in '88.

(ObOldsOnTopic: the '73 Cutlass was pickled and stashed in a garage behind
my great-grandmother's house in western Pennsylvania while we were overseas. 
Driving the Chevette on the wrong side of the road was tricky enough (the
passenger's job was to call out when it was safe to pass).  Driving a "Yank
tank" like the Cutlass, with its wider track, would've been even worse.)

  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
 / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
 \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 22:40:29 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 442 spotted in London

>They didn't get flown over; they were sent overseas by boat.

Ah. Duly noted...

>When we headed over to England in 1984 (RAF Upper Heyford, more
>specifically), Dad removed the catalytic converter and fuel-inlet 
>restrictor
>from our '80 Chevette (you couldn't get unleaded fuel there at the time)
>and had it loaded onto the boat.  Those items were put back on when
>we returned in '88.

*boggle*

Wouldn't it have been easier to walk down to the local Vauxhall dealer and 
just _buy_ a Chevette when you got over there?  :-)  I mean, they even 
_looked_ similar to the 'murrican ones, even though they were not 
technically the same car (unlike competitors like the Escort, which really 
were "world cars").

Too bad the previous-generation Escort never got exported to the U.S. 
instead of the 1980s model; that was a fun ride...

Oh, jeez, Andy's reminiscing about not only Chevys but Fords as well... Time 
to send Andy home...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Find and compare great deals on Broadband access at the MSN High-Speed 
Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 22:43:02 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)

(I posted this yesterday but apparently our system ate it; apologies if this 
turns up twice...)

>Book of Andy:
>>Um... heat? I had numerous fights with the old BMW when trying
>>to extract its broken front strut, but when I finally broke down
>>and spent $12 at Wal-Mart on a basic BernzOmatic propane torch,
>>I was amazed at how fast the previously-immovable objects would
>>loosen up.
>>
>
>Andy,
>
>Thank you for the reply.  It's a good plan.

The entire blow-by-blow saga can be read in this thread (link below) on the 
Unofficial BMW Owners' site. The first few paragraphs deal with The Incident 
and its diagnosis, but then I settle into a diary of adventures with fixing 
the thing, and I think you'll enjoy the parts after the blowtorch comes out, 
for those of you who, like me, get a little queasy about waving flaming 
objects around the underside of a car. Once I solved the first problem with 
a blowtorch, I started using it practically every time I got stuck, and the 
job went much faster (and a lot more entertaining) after that:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=001648

>Trouble is, I can't get any torque on it now as all I'm left
>with is a round stub.  Maybe I'll buy a huge pair of locking
>pliers and try again.

If you have the lateral room, why don't you try a plumber's wrench? It's 
made specifically for getting a good grip on round (pipe) objects. At one 
point in the BMW repair I was using one to grip the upper end of the strut 
rod, in fact.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Find and compare great deals on Broadband access at the MSN High-Speed 
Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:19:56 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

  what harmonic ballencer are you useing
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 11:47 AM
  Subject: shake?


  >   Hey List,
  >     Last week-end I did the auto to 4 speed swap in my 67 cutlass supreme, I
  > now
  > have a pretty good shake going on. It begains around 2 grand and levels out
  > a little
  > at higher rpm.
  >     Here is what I have.....   some will remember my questions in the past
  > about H.B.
  > for the 330 and 350's... I have a 330 crank and it is set up for manual
  > tranns. it is a
  > 350 block from a 72, 7a heads 4 barrel set up. So my question is what should
  > I look for as to why it should be shaking after the swap, I would like to
  > think that it
  > needs a carb and spark plugs, the car has been setting in a warehouse, and
  > only driven in and out for the last year or so.
  >     Any help would be great.
  > thanks
  > john
  > 67 cutlass supreme...
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:22:22 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

  in nj even with qq plates dmv can do a road side inspection to see if it meets the oem specs. it
has been done, and there not supposed to do it but there is a loop hole somewhere
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 1:11 PM
  Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?


  > > I wouldn't bother to gut them. Modern honeycomb cats of sufficient size
  > > pose very little restriction. Certainly less than a quiet muffler. Just
  > > get decent-sized ones and they'll flow great. Not only that, they'll
  > > actually be working, which you can feel good about! :)
  > > May even be able to get away with less muffler with the cats helping
  > > kill the noise... depends on the cat, I guess.
  >
  >
  > I just have to disagree with this about cats. The internal honeycomb **is**
  > a restriction. As the years go buy and the carbon builds up and bakes into
  > the honeycomb, the restriction *will* get worse. Gut the cats.
  >
  > '76 Impala 350/TH350, stock engine except for the Edelbrock intake and
  > Carter 600 CFM AFB, fake EGR, fake vapor recovery canister with a gas tank
  > vent hidden under the car, dual exhaust with gutted cats and a "H" pipe,
  > tuned to 1965 300HP 327 specs, and passed Arizona emissions with flying
  > colors every single time, until the engine died an unnatural death from
  > eating way too much unleaded fuel.
  >
  > Milton Schick
  > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > imp@theriver.com
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:05:40 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Anyone running 16" wheels?

- -------------------------------1077663940
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Since out-of-round wheels are part of my vibration problem, I'm going to 
replace the wheels. I'm thinking of going to a 16" wheel. 16x7s are hard to come 
by, but 16x8s are pretty common. Is anyone running 16x8s with P235/55/R16s on a 
'70 thru '72 Cutlass? Are there any clearance issues?

Jon Wessel

- -------------------------------1077663940
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Since out-of-round wheels are part of my vibration problem, I'm going t=
o replace the wheels. I'm thinking of going to a 16" wheel. 16x7s are hard t=
o come by, but 16x8s are pretty common. Is anyone running 16x8s with P235/55=
/R16s on a '70 thru '72 Cutlass? Are there any clearance issues?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Jon Wessel</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1077663940--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 19:00:30 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: 442 spotted in London

Lovely place.  I got stranded there for 2 days in 1991 on my way home.
At 01:55 PM 2/24/2004 -0800, Scott Alfter wrote:
>(RAF Upper Heyford, more specifically)

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 02:29:58 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

At 10:29 AM 2/24/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> 1) You can't exactly "tamper" with devices that weren't on the 1972
>> powertrain to begin with.
>
>
>You can when the state goes by the model year of the vehicle, which in this
>case is '79, and doesn't care what the engine is.

The EPA, and at least Virginia, Mass and Connecticut (from personal
experience and research), all require that all the original emissions
equipment be installed AND OPERATING. Were there Federal side-of-the-road
inspections, the EPA is authorized to fine violators up to $10K PER
VIOLATION. The EPA has, and occasionally does, conduct inspections of
problematic areas where it suspects flagrant violation of the fed
regulations, such as muffler shops; there are several incidents related in
several EPA memos on a Federal site that relate what happened and how.
That's the reason why few muffler shops will install dual exhaust on
vehicles not originally equipped with such. The Feds can also, and have,
many times, withhold federal highway funds from states that don't
adequately police such emissions equipment violations, which seems to be
primarily a political matter in some states (such as Ohio over the past
several years where the big "fight" is over whether pollutants are more due
to automobiles, trucks or industry) but in others, results from direct
measurement of pollutants such as has been happening most recently in some
Texas cities.

The bottom line is that although it's rarely enforced, it's a violation of
Fed law to tamper with emissions equipment on any motor vehicle. Whether or
not you'll get caught depends entirely upon your local jurisdiction since
the Feds don't have automotive emissions inspection stations. Fed law
doesn't allow swapping an engine that generates more emissions than the
original vehicle, whatever vintage it may be; there's more-precise wording
in the EPA regulations but that's what it boils down to. Your local
jurisdiction may or may not care but your state laws most likely follow the
fed regulations if only because not doing so would jeopardize their Federal
highway funds.

The best course seems to be to judge your own jurisdiction's possible
attitude toward whatever you want to do, balanced with what *could* happen
should you move, or drive the car, to another jurisdiction. Very rarely,
even in California, will cops bother an out-of-state vehicle except for
flagrant equipment or safety violations such as lights, tires, or the like.
The same does not necessarily hold true for trucks, however, especially in
the northeastern states where there have been a number of fatal interstate
accidents involving large trucks from Canada with inoperative or
poorly-performing safety equipment, including brakes and tires (not to say
Canada is any less stringent in this regard; just that a few such trucks,
licensed in Canada, somehow seemed to sneak past safety inspections and
consequently became involved in accidents within the US). That is also one
of the biggest reasons why there's been a large outcry about allowing large
trucks from Mexico to travel the nation's highways with the passage of NAFTA.

Milton has the answer, for we who wish more performance than our little
260s and 307s will allow: either camouflage your 425 or 455 in small-block
"colors" or make it impossible to determine what the engine actually is
through judicial use of the grinder  ;o\  Hot rodders have been doing just
that since the first emissioned engines were built. Just make sure it runs
as cleanly as possible and it's highly unlikely you'll ever have a problem.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 03:41:21 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)

At 10:43 PM 2/24/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>Book of Andy:
.......
>The entire blow-by-blow saga can be read in this thread (link below)....

DANG, Andy, yer almost as wordy as *I* am  :o))))))))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:18:13 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

  Hey Ron,
    It's a 330 H.B.


   what harmonic ballencer are you useing
   ron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 20:29:59 -0500
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: New Olds friend needs '68 Cutlass RH fender

Anyone near Riverside, CA have any leads on a right side fender for a '68
Cutlass?

Not sure if Robert has joined the list yet, so hit me privately if anyone
has a lead that I can pass along. rocket455@worldnet.att.net

Thanks,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 02:36:20 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

At 12:35 PM 2/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey JB,
>    The drive shaft is the same for th350 jetaway m20 and m21 for the mst
>part. Car shakes while driving and just sitting, so that makes me think that
>something is off balance.

In that case, I suggest you remove the tranny and clutch pressure plate
then try it again. If the vibration persists, the flywheel is likely not
balanced to your engine. Be aware that without the mass of the clutch and
tranny input shaft, the vibration will change characteristics but you
should still be able to tell.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:13:53 -0800
From: Andy Sanchez <andythrsh@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

With gas prices going insane in CA (where I am).. I am realizing that 
9MPG in town out of my 350 olds with
Rochester 4bbl is not going to be affordable driving for much longer. 
This is a 1980 350 Olds Engine, basically
stock , with no smog emissions equipment on it. (This motor is being 
used in a 350 diesel vin # GM product). I am
trying to decide whether to get a Holley or Edelbrock/Carter 600cfb 
carb? But don't which series is necessarily
optimal for economy. I've noted that there was a Holley "Economaster" 
450CFM available once upon a time..
and spotted several on Ebay . Are these a waste of time? I think 450CFM 
would barely make it and might as well
just swap down to 2bbl before going that route.

I am just curious, I've never had an Olds 350 get much more than what I 
get now. If I can pick up 2-3MPG
by going to a different carb it would be well worth it..

Andy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 02:50:14 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

At 01:39 PM 2/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> 5) Are you certain that you have the correct externally balanced flywheel
>> for your application?
>
>Yes, came from 67 442

What engine, a 400? That's a big-block whereas your 330 is a small-block.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 19:14:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Brooks <deaconblue1969@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: 442 spotted in London

> Back when I was living in Cambridge (1979-1981) we'd
> see American cars all 
> the time; apparently the local Air Force base was
> able to fly them in if the 
> servicepeople had the right connections to be able
> to roll their car into an 
> unused spot on the transport plane.

I had a buddy stationed in Germany in '71 & '72 - he
said it was common for newly stationed officers to
ridicule the little BMWs with their 4-bangers.  They
would have their big-block American cruisers sent over
so they could cruise the autobahn.  They tended to do
pretty good at 100+ MPH for the first hour or so -
until the cooling and oiling systems couldn't keep up.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 18:39:40 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Friction and gravity

I'm neither a PhD or tire engineer, but had to add my .02 and questions 
anyway.  I recall reading (as a teen) that there was a point of having too 
much tire.  With a wider and/or taller tire (more contact area), you 
obviously have less weight per square inch.  At what point would this start 
having an effect on traction (positive and negative), and how would you 
determine that point?

M


At 09:45 AM 2/24/2004 -0600, Kevin Wright wrote:
>That one caught my attention in Physics as well. If it doesn't matter, 
>then why do we buy wider tires, right?
>My theory is this - usually, when they're talking about CO of static 
>friction, they're talking about smooth surfaces on both materials. Roads 
>aren't smooth - far from it. I believe that what happens is that the 
>larger contact patch makes it more likely that the two materials are 
>actually in contact to generate the friction.
>That's my feeling, anyway. I'm definitely not a Physics Ph.d or a tire 
>design engineer.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 03:17:56 +0200
From: Hannu Pyssysalo <hannu.pyssysalo@koti.soon.fi>
Subject: Re: magnetic oil filters

On Saturday 21 February 2004 14:23 EET, John Kelsey wrote:
> snip-I would like to see you try the magnetic clamp that goes on the oil
> filter
> (no I don't know the name - did I see it in Eastwood?)
> Brian
> Its called filter mag. and can be seen at filtermag.net Runs $75.00 to a
> little over $100.00. I'll have to do more reading on this before I make
> a decesion
> John Kelsey
> Dayton ohio

A magnet is a magnet.  USD 75 really is too much for just a magnet.  Buy 
something useful with that USD 74.

Magnets are used to catch ferrous particles out of the lubrication circuit.  
Differentials and manual transmissions are often equipped with a magnetic 
drain plug.  Magnets do not have any effect on all the non-ferrous  particles 
circulating around the lubrication system.

Hannu Pyssysalo
President, Oldsmobile Club of Finland
1965 Jetstar 88 Convertible

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4792
*********************************
