
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, February 12 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4773



Re: mineral deposits in teapot?
Power Windows
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Optima Batteries vs Trojansx2
Re: Customer Service
adding power windows
clerks who can't make change
Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
Re: Power Windows
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
RE: Converters
Re: Customer Service
Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...
frames, minerals and teapots 
Re: Customer Service
Re: Power Windows
O-Type 12 bolts - was: speaking of torque convertors 
350 rebuild assistance needed
Re: mineral deposits in teapot?
Re: Power Windows
Re: 442.com
Re: 442.com
RE: mineral deposits in teapot?
442.com
Re: 350 rebuild assistance needed
Oldsmobiles in the News  :-(
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
Re: 442.com
63 Olds - rubber insulators (cushions) for radiator
Photo Album
Re: adding power windows
my (full) email box
Rebuilding Q-jets?
Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...
rick's 350 valvetrain refresh

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:20:19 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: mineral deposits in teapot?

It depends on how severe the salt/mineral deposits are. There's a product
called "Limeaway" that will do an excellent job of removing hard water
deposits. Afterward, just wash the pot with soap and water. It will work
fine, as long as the pot isn't aluminum. Stainless steel, ceramic,
porcelain, glass are all fine. Let the Limeaway sit for 5 minutes, then
scrub away.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "King V" <king_v@mindless.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 9:35 PM
Subject: OT: mineral deposits in teapot?


> All,
>
> Ok, I know this is way way off topic, and there's no hope of possibly
> making it Olds-related.
>
> But hey, we've got enough people here who know their chemistry.
>
> Anyway, I've got a pot that I boil water in to make tea, coffee, whatever.
> However, the water's hard in this area, and I've noticed that the flavor
is
> being affected by it.
>
> What makes this difficult is that the pot itself is white, so it's hard to
> see for sure, but I think it's got a serious case of the minerals from the
> water having deposited about the bottom and sides of the pot.
>
> How do I safely get rid of this stuff, completely?  Remember, I'm going to
> be drinking from this thing afterward, too!
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> - Joe Vahabzadeh
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:55:31 EST
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
Subject: Power Windows

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I'm trying to make a decision on adding power windows to my 70 Supreme 
ragtop.  Now I don't want to find fault with anyones help to date, but some say its 
very simple, others say you have to weld or pop rivet into the doors.  Can I 
get some more feedback from you folks before I start buying parts.  Really 
appreciate your advice and if possible, please e-mail roncutlass@aol.com  TIA, Ron

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I'm trying to make a decision on ad=
ding power windows to my 70 Supreme ragtop.&nbsp; Now I don't want to find f=
ault with anyones help to date, but some say its very simple, others say you=
 have to weld or pop rivet into the doors.&nbsp; Can I get some more feedbac=
k from you folks before I start buying parts.&nbsp; Really appreciate your a=
dvice and if possible, please e-mail roncutlass@aol.com&nbsp; TIA, Ron</FONT=
></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:58:07 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

>But in my neverending quest for another car, I've come across a certain
>C-brand G-body.
>
>It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.
>
>How do these hold up as the miles pile on, assuming proper maintenance?

Excellent, even on a non ideal maintenance schedule. My pal had one in his 
truck. Abused it with more than one 10k mile oil change, towing, racing 
etc. 160k miles it was still going strong. He pulled it to put a V8, but 
only because it wasn't going fast enough. Good engine, in my book and if it 
ever needs help, you can use the dirt cheap 350 parts...

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 01:03:03 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Optima Batteries vs Trojansx2

"JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com> wrote:

>  you know Milton, I was thinking the samething...  :-)
>john orr
>67 cutlass supreme
>
>
>Subject: Re: Optima Batteries vs Trojan
>
>
>> Randy,
>> 
>> > I find safety in the trojan brand :)
>> 
>> 
>> I could editorialize on your comment, but I'll resist temptation. :-)))
>> 
>> Milton Schick
>> 1964 442 Cutlass
>> imp@theriver.com

Hello
If you know you are gonna pull a big load,and your in for a long hard drive, and ya wanna be super safe ya could always use 2 Trojans!
Randy(Cruises safe)Hermsen
>> 
>


__________________________________________________________________
New! Unlimited Netscape Internet Service.
Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
Act now to get a personalized email address!

Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 01:41:54 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: Re: Customer Service

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In a message dated 2/10/2004 11:41:35 PM Central Standard Time, 
imp@theriver.com writes:


> 
> 
> I'm referring to clerks who can't make change...they can't count out change.
> It has nothing to do with whether or not they have the change, they don't
> have a clue how to count the change, unless the cash register does it for
> them. They can't add or subtract, period.
> 
> 
> I suppose I did miss the point and do agree with you



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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>In a message=20=
dated 2/10/2004 11:41:35 PM Central Standard Time, imp@theriver.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>
<BR>I'm referring to clerks who can't make change...they can't count out cha=
nge.
<BR>It has nothing to do with whether or not they have the change, they don'=
t
<BR>have a clue how to count the change, unless the cash register does it fo=
r
<BR>them. They can't add or subtract, period.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>I suppose I did miss the point and do agree with you</FONT><FONT  COLOR=
=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 P=
TSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COL=
OR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=
=3D"0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 06:02:57 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: adding power windows

(snip) I'm trying to make a decision on adding power windows to my 70 
Supreme ragtop

There are a couple of ways to do this. There are some add on power 
window kits which use a cable driven motor which fits over the current 
winder. You just take off the handle. The other of course is to find a 
donor car and switch regulators. You will have to drill or punch out the 
rivits which hold in the power window motors and bolt them into the 
receiving car. be careful people get jurt fooling with power window 
regulators once the motor it out
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 05:58:06 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: clerks who can't make change

 From clerks who can't make change

I'll never forget the clerk who shorted me a quarter in change one 
morning. No big deal when I pointed out that she owed me a quarter she 
stated we don't have any *&^%( quarters. I smiled not realizing she was 
serious and said then give me two dimes and a nickel. She said Oh I 
never thought of that!!:) I guess it wasn't her job to get quarters or 
to think.
Think Spring
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 07:31:26 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Power Window Motor/Firewall Drill

> interchangable in the rear? If so, what is the procedure
> for pulling the trim off of the inside of the door?

When you get the door apart you're gonna find that the motor is part of the
regulator assembly. The whole thing is riveted to the door in 5 or 6 places.
The motor is attached to the regulator with more rivets. The rear window
comes out easily after you remove the stationary glass and its rubber
gasket.

> I'm installing an amp in the trunk of the 88 (same one as
> above). I need to get 4ga power cable from the battery to
> the back.

I drilled a hole through the firewall by the pedals and used a rubber
grommet. Loosen the front left kick panel, remove door sill trim plates,
remove driver's seat belt bolt (#47 Torx), loosen center pillar trim, and
the rear seat. When you peel back the carpet it'll expose the the wiring
channel in the floor.

BTW my amp rack is just a carpeted piece of MDF:
http://pages.cthome.net/davecullen/amprack_installed.JPG

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 07:36:28 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

> Do I need to hook the ground of the amp to the body of the
> car (chassis ground)?

Yes.

> If so, do I need to run a bigger wire
> from the battery to the frame, or is the one there
> sufficient?

The ground wire is the one from battery negative to the body (fender), and
it's only about 10 gage. If you're using 4 gage for your amp, you should
increase the battery ground wire size to 4 gage too. Also the positive wire
from alternator to battery.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:20:40 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Power Windows

My experience with power windows of that vintage is that they bolt into the doors and rear quarters.  There is certainly no welding and I don't think any riveting.  The motor may be riveted to the regulator, but I even doubt that - I think they are bolt in too.  I had to remove the entire regulator from the door of a '67 Toronado to repair a rusted power window connection.  This was in the parking lot of the '00 Nationals in Denver.  We removed the regulator, found an an acceptable regulator from a different vehicle in the swap meet and replaced it all in the parking lot using just simple tools (no welders or rivet guns).

You will have to cut holes in the door jambs and door shells to run the wiring to the front doors.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:45:34 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

   Hey Joe,
   I have one in my 1/2 ton pick-up 97 and runs like a top 73K the only
problem
I have ever had with it (still going on, so if anyone has any ideas please
pass them on) I can't get the idle to where it should be, it runs up to
where ever it wants too...
I have changed the idle motor 3 times. Looked for vacuum leaks, beats me....
john
67 cutlass supreme


> Well, I did promise/warn/threaten that I'd do this again.....
>
> But in my neverending quest for another car, I've come across a certain
> C-brand G-body.
>
> It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 07:26:35 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Converters

My son had a Hughes 2500 stall converter in his 475 hp '70 SX.  It did 12.6 
quarter times consistently, never had problems, drove it to school everyday 
for a couple years.

Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:31:33 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Customer Service

>> From clerks who can't make change


>I'm referring to clerks who can't make change...they can't count out change.
>It has nothing to do with whether or not they have the change, they don't
>have a clue how to count the change, unless the cash register does it for
>them. They can't add or subtract, period.

>Milton Schick

Yes, I know small minds are easily amused but...I always enjoy getting change back from someone a little older than me and they know how to count the change as they give it to you.

For example if you buy something for $4.95, and give them a 10 dollar bill, they return a nickel, and say "that makes 5", and then give you a 5 dollar bill, and say "and another 5 makes 10".

Working as a teenager in a convenience store (13-17) brushed me up on my arithmetic skills.  I would always do the change in my head, and then check the register for accuracy.

Ahh...another dead art in America/The World.

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 06:29:47 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: One (more) question about amp wiring...

>
> The ground wire is the one from battery negative to the body (fender), and
> it's only about 10 gage. If you're using 4 gage for your amp, you should
> increase the battery ground wire size to 4 gage too. Also the positive wire
> from alternator to battery.
>

This is incorrect (in most circumstances) as the thickness is required to provide sufficient power for the length of the
run. A shorter run can get away with a smaller gauge. Regardless of amp rating, I'm willing to bet the four gauge power
lead is much bigger than required. Remember alot of what pro installers do is based on creating impressive appearances,
not improving sound.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:06:35 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: frames, minerals and teapots 

What Kevin said... phosphoric acid rocks.  In any form.  Concentrated to
several molar, its good for converting (reducing) oxidized steel to
magnetite on the frame of any given beater.  Rinse with water. When dry,
it leaves a white coat of free and bound phosphate (-Po4) - totally
harmless.  For you Joe- Don't waste bucks on CLR. 
Best,
Ian Dixon 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca [mailto:oldsmobile-
> How do I safely get rid of this stuff, completely?  Remember, I'm
going to
> be drinking from this thing afterward, too!
>

Vinegar is a cheap and food safe cleaner (phosphoric acid based) that
you could fill the kettle with and let soak,
perhaps overnight.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:16:44 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Customer Service

>I'm referring to clerks who can't make change...they can't count out 
>change.
>It has nothing to do with whether or not they have the change, they don't
>have a clue how to count the change, unless the cash register does it for
>them. They can't add or subtract, period.

Heck, way back when I was working in a hobby store, they showed us how to 
make change without even knowing subtraction: start on the right side, with 
the pennies drawer, and just count _up_ from whatever the purchase total was 
to whatever the customer had given you, jumping to the next coin drawer to 
the left each time you reached the next increment of change: 
penny+penny+penny+nickel+quarter+two singles, and Have a Nice Day...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Plan your next US getaway to one of the super destinations here. 
http://special.msn.com/local/hotdestinations.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:25:11 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

>My experience with power windows of that vintage is that they bolt
>into the doors and rear quarters.  There is certainly no welding and
>I don't think any riveting.  The motor may be riveted to the regulator,
>but I even doubt that - I think they are bolt in too.

Typically the factory rivets the regulator to the motor, and the motor to 
the door, but as I said, it's pretty trivial to knock out the rivet stem and 
drill out the rivet. The replacement goes in with small nuts, bolts and lock 
washers. Sometimes you'll get the fasteners with the replacement motor; 
other times you'll have to head on over to the hardware store.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Find great local high-speed Internet access value at the MSN High-Speed 
Marketplace. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:01:45 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: O-Type 12 bolts - was: speaking of torque convertors 

> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 12:15:05 -0800 (PST)
> From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
> Subject: speaking of torque convertors

snip

>  I'm not sure on gear ratio yet, but understand 
> 3.91 will not be deep enough.  If I can find 4.33 I'll run 
> those in my original type O otherwise (and the way I'm 
> leaning towards) I'll be swapping to a Type C 12 bolt with 
> 4.56 or maybe 4.10. 

Chris,

In case you didn't know, Richmond Gear makes 3.90 and 4.10 gears 
for the O-Type 12 bolt, so if you decide to go with less than 4.33 
gears you may be able to keep your car all Olds.
http://richmondgear.com/01pdfs/page11.pdf

Also, Brian Trick over on realoldspower.com has a lot of parts for 
O-Type rears. He goes by 507olds on that board, and his e-mail 
address is Bltrick@aol.com. He was able to provide me a set of 
'68/'69 axle shafts for a very reasonable price.

Here's another parts source that was posted by Everett a while back:

There is guy in Seneca Falls NY that is a great guy who deals in rear 
ends from complete assemblies to parts. 

    Gevos' Rears and Gears
    1-315-568-9744  after 6PM

Everett   OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire

Hope this info helps, and good luck at the races!

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:23:33 -0600
From: Rick Kromeich <wlrk06@email.mot.com>
Subject: 350 rebuild assistance needed

Hi folks,

I had sent the following email out last week and didn't get any
responses.  I think it may have gotten lost in the head bolt
discussion.  I do need to get going and start ordering the parts for
this rebuild.  Since it will remain mostly stock, I am looking for a
recomendation on who has the best prices/services, what cam
recomendation seperate or in kit form, and any other suggestions/tips.
Any help would be most useful.

Hopefully this post does not get lost in a teapot debate ;-)

TIA!
- -Rick


>Hey gang,
>
>Been in stealth mode for awhile.  But, my 350 in my 72 Cutlass hardtop
>is going to get a minor rebuild to make it streetable for this Spring.
>I want to replace, pushrods,lifters,rockers, cam, timing chain set, and

>camshaft, and gaskets of course.  Looking to probably bump up the cam a

>little, but nothing too radical.  I am looking for any
>recomendations/tips/useful info.  Who is the best/cheapest source for
>mostly stock parts?  Thinking Mr. Witt has some recent experience in a
>350 build, mine won't be anywhere near as complete, looking to keep the

>costs down, while factoring in reliability and street driving.  Might
>throw a set of headers and dual exhaust if possible.
>
>Thanks for any and all advice/pointers.
>
>
>As always, in digest mode so replies are a little slow....
>
>- -Rick
>72 Cutlass Supreme Conv't
>72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:12:37 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: mineral deposits in teapot?

> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:44:40 -0800
> From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
> Subject: Re: mineral deposits in teapot?
> 
> >
> > How do I safely get rid of this stuff, completely?  
> Remember, I'm going to
> > be drinking from this thing afterward, too!
> >
> 
> Vinegar is a cheap and food safe cleaner (phosphoric acid 
> based) 

Not quite. Vinegar is a weak concentration of acetic acid, not 
phosphoric acid.

http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/AceticAcid/AceticAcid.html

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:13:32 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

At Wednesday, 11 February 2004, you wrote:

>Typically the factory rivets the regulator to the motor, and 
>the motor to the door, but as I said, it's pretty trivial to 
>knock out the rivet stem and drill out the rivet. The 
>replacement goes in with small nuts, bolts and lock washers. 
>Sometimes you'll get the fasteners with the replacement motor; 
>other times you'll have to head on over to the hardware store.

Several years ago, I wanted to get a better regulator for my '83 
M*libu wagon's driver's door from a Yarde car. Gathering my tool 
kit at home for the Yarde, I was disappointed to discover that both 
the batteries for my electric drill were dead. Then an idea popped 
up: chuck a drill bit into a tap handle to cut the aluminum rivet 
heads off. Worked like a charm: just took a cupla minutes longer 
than the electric drill would have but no carting the dang drill 
through the Yarde with me  :o)))))

BE SURE that you block the winder so it doesn't crash down into the 
door when you release the regulator from the winder. Usually, all 
you have to do is stick some kinda rubber stop between the winder 
and door molding. I used an old folded-up wiper blade.

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
===================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:33:53 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442.com

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Anybody having trouble logging onto 442.com?  Tried today and server said 
they couldn't find it.  What gives?
Steve D

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Anybody having trouble logging onto=
 442.com?&nbsp; Tried today and server said they couldn't find it.&nbsp; Wha=
t gives?<BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:39:51 EST
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442.com

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they must be down today!   Ive had the same problem!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  COLOR=3D"#008040" SIZE=3D2 P=
TSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><I>they must be do=
wn today!&nbsp;&nbsp; Ive had the same problem!</I></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:59:10 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: mineral deposits in teapot?

Oops, brain fart.  Vinegar is acetic acid.  However the stuff I said
about phosphoric acid is true. My bad.
Ian

Kevin said, and I previously agreed: 
> Vinegar is a cheap and food safe cleaner (phosphoric acid 
> based) 

Kenneth replied,
>Not quite. Vinegar is a weak concentration of acetic acid, not 
>phosphoric acid.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:04:00 EST
From: James244@aol.com
Subject: 442.com

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I tried to log on to the site last night and had the same problems.

James

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FAMILY=
=3D"SERIF" FACE=3D"Times New Roman" LANG=3D"0">I tried to log on to the site=
 last night and had the same problems.<BR>
<BR>
James</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:36:05 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: 350 rebuild assistance needed

Well, PAW, Summit, Jegs offer affordable kits to refresh any engine. 
The cheapest cams are from PAW
The cheapest kit for my 468 was from Summit
Jegs had better S&H price
Summit answeres by email, others don't
Hope it helps
Matt
74CS 
81CS
455 on the shelf
468 still not ready...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:30:17 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Oldsmobiles in the News  :-(

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4016883/

>The 7:25 a.m. blast tore into would-be army volunteers
>waiting outside the recruitment center less than a mile
>from the heavily fortified green zone, where the U.S.
>administration has its headquarters. Baker said a man
>driving a white 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Sierra [sic]
>detonated about 300 to 500 pounds of explosives.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Click here for a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee. 
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:52:33 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

On Tue, Feb 10, 2004 at 11:37:32PM -0500, King V wrote:
> But in my neverending quest for another car, I've come across a certain
> C-brand G-body.
> 
> It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.
> 
> How do these hold up as the miles pile on, assuming proper maintenance?

Dad used to have one in an '88 Blazer...waited until April that year to
order it with the 4.3.  If the electrical system or computer (whichever was
the source of the glitches) hadn't gone on the fritz, he'd probably still
have it.  Mechanically, it never needed anything beyond the usual
maintenance and was still going strong the last time I rode in it.

  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
 / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
 \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:27:47 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

How about the mpg numbers? Are they really better that the V8 mpg ? There
are nice Silverado's down there, quite cheap for a big truck, available with
both engines. Instinctively I look only the V8s, but... 4.3 has 190-200HP
and if the mpg are significatively greater in number, maybe a V6 could do
the work, I mean give the pleasure...
Matt

> > It's equipped with a 4.3 V6, ye olde C-brand 350 less two cylinders.
> >
> > How do these hold up as the miles pile on, assuming proper maintenance?
>
> Dad used to have one in an '88 Blazer...waited until April that year to
> order it with the 4.3.  If the electrical system or computer (whichever
was
> the source of the glitches) hadn't gone on the fritz, he'd probably still
> have it.  Mechanically, it never needed anything beyond the usual
> maintenance and was still going strong the last time I rode in it.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 18:29:44 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 442.com

FWIW, the email addresses on the list from the 442.com domain have been
bouncing all day too. Close to 50 bounced messages so far... :(

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:14:44 EST
From: Kato111@aol.com
Subject: 63 Olds - rubber insulators (cushions) for radiator

- -------------------------------1076544884
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I removed my radiator to get it repaired. - - 63 Olds super 88 with 394 cu in 
engine (4 barrel carb)  - no air conditioning,  The radiator is a a Harrison 
#9361
On the two bottom brackets where the radiator sits in, there are rubber 
insulators (cushions).  There is also a rubber insulator on the top bracket.
Does anyone know where to get these insulators (rubber cushions)?
Thanks
Bill

- -------------------------------1076544884
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I removed my radiator to get it repaired.&nbsp;- -&nbsp;63 Olds super 8=
8 with 394 cu in engine (4 barrel&nbsp;carb)&nbsp; - no air conditioning,&nb=
sp; The radiator is a a Harrison #9361</DIV>
<DIV>On the two bottom brackets where the radiator sits in, there are rubber=
 insulators (cushions).&nbsp; There is also a rubber insulator on the top br=
acket.</DIV>
<DIV>Does anyone know where to get these insulators (rubber cushions)?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks</DIV>
<DIV>Bill</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1076544884--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:45:26 -0500
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Photo Album

I found a place were we can make free photo albums. Just thought I would
pass the word on in case anyone wanted to start it up for the group(s).
Sorry this is a cross posting for some of the peeps on my list's. We can
have it set up so we can all access it. All ya have to do is list the
group's email addy for the email addy and let everyone know the password and
name.

The place is  www.Snapfish.com

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:04:27 EST
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: adding power windows

- -------------------------------1076551467
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 2/11/2004 7:19:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ribspot@pop4.net writes:
snip) I'm trying to make a decision on adding power windows to my 70 
Supreme ragtop
   Its really not that big a deal, donor car must be a 70-72 Cutlass 2 door. 
If you take them out yourself you can see how they go back in. If you purchase 
a set be sure they include the complete uncut wiring harness and the two 
rubber conduits that go between the car and door. You will have to cut holes for 
these conduits in your car.
   The motors are bolted to the regulators but you will not have to remove 
them, intall as a unit. The front regulators bolt right up but the rar regukator 
will have to have holes drilled for the mounting bolts. Also the wire harness 
for the rear will need a hole cut to pass to the regulator from under the 
rear seat. 
   The hadest thing we found installing power windows was adjusting the glass 
after the job is done.


Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire    1971 Supreme w/installed power windows

- -------------------------------1076551467
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 2/11/2004 7:19:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, ribspot@=
pop4.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>snip) I'm trying to make a decision on adding=20=
power windows to my 70 <BR>Supreme ragtop</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; Its really not that big a deal, donor car must be a 70-72=20=
Cutlass 2 door. If you take them out yourself you can see how they go back i=
n. If you purchase a set be sure they include the complete uncut wiring harn=
ess and the two rubber conduits that go between the car and door. You will h=
ave to cut holes for these conduits&nbsp;in your car.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; The motors are bolted to the regulators but you will not h=
ave to remove them, intall as a unit. The front regulators bolt right up but=
 the rar regukator will have to have holes drilled for the mounting bolts. A=
lso the wire harness for the rear will need a hole cut to pass to the regula=
tor from under the rear seat. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; The hadest thing we found installing power windows was adj=
usting the glass after the job is done.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Everett&nbsp; OCA# 1961&nbsp;&nbsp; 1961 Starfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 197=
1 Supreme w/installed power windows</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1076551467--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 23:07:56 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@infionline.net>
Subject: my (full) email box

If anyone sent me anything today from the list, you will need to resend 
it.  It seems my broinlaw's computer loves sending me LARGE files and 
filling up my mailbox.  He must have something wrong with it, but I have 
no clue what.....  Like today he sent me one 3M file 4 times for some 
reason, which pretty much filled up my 10M mailbox as you might guess.  
This is the third time in the past month this has happened, so I suspect 
something could be wrong with his computer.....  As this affects my 
getting list mail, does any one know what might be causing this?  If so, 
please hit me off list so I can clue him in......

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 23:39:19 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Rebuilding Q-jets?

I just read a Car Craft article about rebuilding Q-jets, and they mentioned
dipping the carb in a zinc solution to restore the factory finish. Where is
one sposed to get this solution, and what's the procedure?? Come on, you
Q-jet gurus, your secrets can't be hidden forever :) :) :)

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 00:21:49 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another non-Olds engine question...

At 07:27 PM 02/11/2004 -0300, Matt wrote:
>How about the mpg numbers? Are they really better that the V8 mpg ? There
>are nice Silverado's down there, quite cheap for a big truck, available with
>both engines. Instinctively I look only the V8s, but... 4.3 has 190-200HP
>and if the mpg are significatively greater in number, maybe a V6 could do
>the work, I mean give the pleasure...

Maybe the more recent ones..... if I recall right, the throttle-body
equipped 4.3L V6s had something like 140 or so horsepower, and about
205-215 ft-lbs of torque.  I'd imagine that it can do better than V8s in
terms of fuel economy, else why would they have bothered?

Uh, maybe I should retract that question.... Detroit "bothered" doing a LOT
of things that weren't necessarily logical.

I know one guy had one in a beat up Monte Carlo that could just about hold
its own against my 318 Dart, but I have no idea how his was geared.  The
Dart had a 2.45:1 axle though.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:33:06 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: rick's 350 valvetrain refresh

Rick:
 > >I want to replace, pushrods,lifters,rockers, cam, timing chain set, and
 >
 > >camshaft, and gaskets of course. Looking to probably bump up the cam a
 >
 > >little, but nothing too radical. I am looking for any
 > >recomendations/tips/useful info. Who is the best/cheapest source for
 > >mostly stock parts? Might
 > >throw a set of headers and dual exhaust if possible.
All right!
I'd shop for everything at Summit. They have never let me down. They have a
shipping center in the east and one in NV, so you can get parts quick,
wherever you are.
I went with the comp cams 1441 kit (pushrods, guide plates, rocker arms,
studs and nuts), I'd go with a comp cam cam. I have the 260H for better low
end umph. There is other similar ones in their collection. The Xtreme
Energy grinds are popular. A bit more modern than my symmetric 260H, you
may want to inquire separately when picking your ca. For the timing set I
went with the summit brand double roller. Very well made set.
I'd skip the headers, if you want good fitting ones, you are out several
hundred bucks fro a set of hooker super competition headers. Headers are a
pain for a daily driver IMHO. Duals are easily put in place by blocking off
the crossover port on the drivers side (?) manifold. That's what the
factory did on the sb factory dual cars.
For lifters, seals and gaskets I recommend either summit or your local
parts store. Do not get the turkey pan gasket felpro sells for the intake
rather than the mr. gasket composite piece which is two pieces and no pan.
Hope this helps. Please ask if I can be of any more help.
George
71 C/S rag.
71 442 holiday cp.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4773
*********************************
