
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, February 26 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4795



Re: Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: shake?
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: seatbelts
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
RE: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 -  1whitee2
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
RE: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...
Re: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...
Re: Flowkooler replacement gasket
RE: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 -  1whitee2
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
RE: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...
Re: seatbelts
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:28:39 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?

The same way, make a tool, then I replace it with a hex drive pipe plug.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 6:57 PM
Subject: Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?


> How do you folks that do so, remove that 5/16 square drive pipe plug [the
> one with the hole in it] from the rear of the LH oil gallery?
>
> I made 2-3 tools to do that, they worked out OK, anyone need one?
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Click, drag and drop. My MSN is the simple way to design your homepage.
> http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:32:41 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

>>The caddy weighs
>> about the same as your '77 cutlass? 3,800 # or so. ?
>
>I think you will find that Seville to be heavier than you think.  I have an
>'81 ex Diesel Sevile and it tips the scales at 4,200.   It still seems to me
>that you ought to be able to get 12-14 around town if the traffic is moving
>and 18-19 on the highway at steady 65 mph cruise.

According to Consumer Reports, the 1978 and 1979 Cadillac Seville with 350
Olds V8 tips the scales at 4,290 lbs.

Too much on the heavy side for something based off the Nova frame, if you
ask my opinion.  But 1970s engineers have not developed a time-machine
based phone or anything to call and ask my opinion.  :)


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:33:58 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?

At 02:37 AM 02/26/2004 +0000, ron fama wrote:
>my friend has modified on his 79 trans am. i will have to ask him.

Thanks for any and all information you can get regarding this! 

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:30:16 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

Listmembers,

I don't know if this would really help get better mileage out of a 350 (or 
any other engine for that matter) but I have one Rochester carb that _looks_ 
like someone goofed on casting a Quadrajet and didn't open up the back of the 
carb.  In essence it will bolt on where a QJ is but only has the front two 
barrels, the rest is cast shut.

A co-worker mentioned this creature to me, and for curiosity's sake I had to 
have it.  It's somewhere in the garage, but can't remember where I put it.  
>From what I remember, this was originally on a Brand C engine.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 04:34:47 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

At 09:24 PM 2/25/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Mike,
>
>Are you saying the Flowkooler aluminum water pump uses a different gasket
>from the stock water pump???? How does that work????
......
>>they're thick (1/16 inch) and the feeble customer service people 
>>at Flowkooler suggest NAPA.  Of course, they give me "deer in
>>the headlights" stare when I tried them. ;-)

Sounds like he's saying they're thicker than the usual gasket water pump
gasket. I'd gess the usual gasket at 0.030" to 0.040" thick and he said
above the original Flowcooler was 1/16" which is 0.0625".

My thoughts:
1. SHAME on Flowcooler for, in the first place, creating the need for a
special gasket  ;o\
2. SHAME on Flowcooler for even insinuating, let alone overtly suggesting,
that he should go to NAPA for their "special" gasket. They should have been
willing to sell him a new gasket at the usual NAPA price of $5  (!!!!) and
then charged $10 shipping  ;o\
3. If yer really stuck, doesn't sound like you have much alternative other
than to stack a pair of "normal" gaskets. Use gasket sealer between them as
well as to the pump and block.

I'd gess the reason for the thicker gasket must have to do with the
construction of the pump in that the impeller needs more clearance to the
block, or something like that. That being the case, "Right Stuff" sillycone
sealer, by itself, wouldn't work.

4. I would just go buy the GMB aluminum pump which has worked fine for many
Olds folks. The early ones did have a cracking problem but they took it off
the market until they fixed it, apparently, and it's been available again
for several years at around $75 from almost anywhere carrying GMB pumps.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:46:47 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

John,

If I were there with your engine, maybe I would see something, but the way
it stands, either it's an ignition or carb problem shutting down a cylinder
or the engine is out of balance. If it's an out of balance problem, either
the harmonic balancer doesn't match the 330 crank or the flywheel doesn't
match the 330 crank or the balancer or the 330 crank counterweights don't
match the 350 pistons (the rods are the same), or some combination of the
above.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: shake?


>      Milton,
>     The new one is on there now....
>
>
> > Which harmonic balancer is on it now? The original or Mondello's? If the
> > original, check the outer ring and see if it's loose, like Steve said.
If
> > loose, install the Mondello and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise,
> > look at spark plugs.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:55:30 -0500
From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

> Has anyone found/purchased a replacement gasket for their Flowkooler
> aluminum water pump?  My original one blew when the bolts quickly backed
out
> when I thought I could get away without using LocTite on them for one day.
> Oops.  In any event, they're thick (1/16 inch) and the feeble customer
> service people at Flowkooler suggest NAPA.  Of course, they give me "deer
in
> the headlights" stare when I tried them. ;-)

LOL. Same exact problem my brother had with his when we had to take the
water pump off to rebuild the engine. FlowKooler told us to try NAPA because
it would probably be cheaper than going through them directly, NAPA didn't
know what the heck it is we were talking about so we called FlowKooler back
and paid the money for the gasket directly from them. We get the gasket,
think we're good to go and the stupid thing was cut wrong! >:(((( It was the
correct Olds water pump gaskets but it was cut wrong towards the outer edge
and would have leaked like crazy if we had used it.

> Worst case scenario, I'll hand cut one from scratch, but I'd rather just
be
> lazy and have one delivered to me, natch.

That is what we did. Went up to the local auto parts store and bought some
1/16" or so thick gasket material off of a roll they had. Brought it home,
used a stock gasket as a template and cut a new one out. Worked out just
fine and no leaks. A little more work than just buying one but then again
its less of a hassle too.

Andrew Geeting
geeting@woh.rr.com
'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:58:38 -0500
From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

The FlowKooler pump has the same gasket it is just thicker than a stock
replacement. If you don't use the thick gasket, the plate that is riveted
onto the back of the impeller will rub on the timing cover. So you need the
extra thickness of the gasket to bring the water pump out just enough to
clear.

I tried a stock gasket on my brother's 403 hoping we could get away with it
but you could feel the water pump rocking back and forth from the center
where the impeller was up against the timing cover. You could hardly turn
the water pump if you bolted it down.

Andrew Geeting
geeting@woh.rr.com
'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf

> Mike,
>
> Are you saying the Flowkooler aluminum water pump uses a different gasket
> from the stock water pump???? How does that work????
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 00:12:29 -0500
From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

> Sounds like he's saying they're thicker than the usual gasket water pump
> gasket. I'd gess the usual gasket at 0.030" to 0.040" thick and he said
> above the original Flowcooler was 1/16" which is 0.0625".

Yep, thats what is needed.

> My thoughts:
> 1. SHAME on Flowcooler for, in the first place, creating the need for a
> special gasket  ;o\

Exactly.

> 2. SHAME on Flowcooler for even insinuating, let alone overtly suggesting,
> that he should go to NAPA for their "special" gasket. They should have
been
> willing to sell him a new gasket at the usual NAPA price of $5  (!!!!) and
> then charged $10 shipping  ;o\

Actually they will sell you the gasket. But when I called for a replacement
for my brother's 403 they told me to try NAPA first. That way I wouldn't
have to pay so much shipping for just one little gasket. So they *tried* to
save us the cost of shipping from them but it didn't help since NAPA had no
idea what we were talking about. :o/

> 3. If yer really stuck, doesn't sound like you have much alternative other
> than to stack a pair of "normal" gaskets. Use gasket sealer between them
as
> well as to the pump and block.

I know just two gaskets won't work so more than that would be needed. I just
cut a new gasket out of a roll of 1/16" thick gasket material from the local
autoparts store. Looks just like the original and worked perfectly plus you
have just one gasket. It just takes a little extra time to make one.

> I'd gess the reason for the thicker gasket must have to do with the
> construction of the pump in that the impeller needs more clearance to the
> block, or something like that. That being the case, "Right Stuff"
sillycone
> sealer, by itself, wouldn't work.

It has to do with the plate that is riveted onto the backside of the
impeller. It sticks out a little farther than stock and so a thicker gasket
is needed to keep it from rubbing on the timing cover.

> 4. I would just go buy the GMB aluminum pump which has worked fine for
many
> Olds folks. The early ones did have a cracking problem but they took it
off
> the market until they fixed it, apparently, and it's been available again
> for several years at around $75 from almost anywhere carrying GMB pumps.

Actually, the FlowKooler pump is a GMB pump. FlowKooler just grind off the
GMB logo and puts their sticker over top of it. And they may add the riveted
plate also. I don't remember if the GMB pump has that or not. I do know that
my brother's FlowKooler has GMB stamped into the end of the impeller snout
at the front. I think he paid around $75 for his from Summit racing.

Andrew Geeting
geeting@woh.rr.com
'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:22:11 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

> Sounds like he's saying they're thicker than the usual gasket water pump
> gasket. I'd gess the usual gasket at 0.030" to 0.040" thick and he said
> above the original Flowcooler was 1/16" which is 0.0625".


I just measured the two slightly different OEM Olds water pump gaskets in my
inventory. They both are 0.033" thick. Too thick of a paper gasket can have
pressure sealing issues, especially when holding back hot water/coolant. It
just sounds strange the gasket would be that thick.


> My thoughts:
> 1. SHAME on Flowcooler for, in the first place, creating the need for a
> special gasket  ;o\


Shame to the Nth power!


> 2. SHAME on Flowcooler for even insinuating, let alone overtly suggesting,
> that he should go to NAPA for their "special" gasket. They should have
been
> willing to sell him a new gasket at the usual NAPA price of $5  (!!!!) and
> then charged $10 shipping  ;o\


No comment. :-(


> 3. If yer really stuck, doesn't sound like you have much alternative other
> than to stack a pair of "normal" gaskets. Use gasket sealer between them
as
> well as to the pump and block.


>From an engineering standpoint, that's not a good idea.


> I'd gess the reason for the thicker gasket must have to do with the
> construction of the pump in that the impeller needs more clearance to the
> block, or something like that. That being the case, "Right Stuff"
sillycone
> sealer, by itself, wouldn't work.


That would be an extremely poor reason. To rely on gasket thickness for
spacing is asking for trouble, even though it's been done in the past. That
doesn't make it right.


> 4. I would just go buy the GMB aluminum pump which has worked fine for
many
> Olds folks. The early ones did have a cracking problem but they took it
off
> the market until they fixed it, apparently, and it's been available again
> for several years at around $75 from almost anywhere carrying GMB pumps.


If Flowkooler plays these kind of games, it would make me leery of using
one.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 05:28:25 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

At 11:58 PM 2/25/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>The FlowKooler pump has the same gasket it is just thicker than a stock
>replacement. If you don't use the thick gasket, the plate that is riveted
>onto the back of the impeller will rub on the timing cover. So you need the
>extra thickness of the gasket to bring the water pump out just enough to
>clear.
>
>I tried a stock gasket on my brother's 403 hoping we could get away with it
>but you could feel the water pump rocking back and forth from the center
>where the impeller was up against the timing cover. You could hardly turn
>the water pump if you bolted it down.

Did Flowcooler correctly shorten the pump shaft that tiny amount so that
the pulley remains in proper alignment with the others?

Steve  ?8-| H

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:27:28 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

> The FlowKooler pump has the same gasket it is just thicker than a stock
> replacement. If you don't use the thick gasket, the plate that is riveted
> onto the back of the impeller will rub on the timing cover. So you need
the
> extra thickness of the gasket to bring the water pump out just enough to
> clear.
>
> I tried a stock gasket on my brother's 403 hoping we could get away with
it
> but you could feel the water pump rocking back and forth from the center
> where the impeller was up against the timing cover. You could hardly turn
> the water pump if you bolted it down.


J*s*s H. Chr**t! That's just plain bad engineering. There is no excuse for
that! I guess I'll stick to my Sealed Power AC-HD cast iron short water
pumps, with cast iron impeller.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 00:30:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Amadei <amadei@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

On Wed, 25 Feb 2004, SteveH wrote:

> Other marquees don't even have as much engine-ID info as Olds; the
> ONLY way you can ID most Poncho engines, for example, is through
> the two-letter code punched into the front of the block (if you know
> where to look for it) and even that doesn't work half the time since
> Poncho reused many codes through the years.

The later engines ('69 and on(?)) had it cast on the side of the
engine... 350, 400, 455.  It's up towards the front, but I forget if it's
on the left or right.  I'm thinking right.

Of course, this didn't tell you alot, but it tells you the displacement...
which is the first thing we try to increase!

					----Steve
Stephen Amadei
Dandy.NET!  CTO/CSO
Atlantic City, NJ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:02:52 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: seatbelts

Crow Enterprises makes affordable restraints that are closely matched in 
design and quality to the more expensive stuff out there. 
www.crowenterprizes.com  I have their 6 point setup (no, not in the oldses) 
and like it.

George

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:22:56 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

At 12:12 AM 2/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I know just two gaskets won't work so more than that would be needed. 
>I just cut a new gasket out of a roll of 1/16" thick gasket material 
>from the local autoparts store. Looks just like the original and worked 
>perfectly plus you have just one gasket. It just takes a little extra 
>time to make one.

I still have pieces left of the very first gasket material I bought 34
years ago when I built my first engine and the local shops were all out of
intake manifold gaskets  ;o\

>Actually, the FlowKooler pump is a GMB pump. FlowKooler just grind off 
>the GMB logo and puts their sticker over top of it.

YER KIDDING!!

And isn't the Flowcooler pump more expensive than the GMB pump??

>And they may add the riveted plate also. I don't remember if the GMB 
>pump has that or not. I do know that my brother's FlowKooler has GMB 
>stamped into the end of the impeller snout at the front. I think he 
>paid around $75 for his from Summit racing.

OK, that's bout the same price as the GMB. Here's Mike Ecker's aluminum GMB
pump:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/OldsCooling/GMBAlum/GMBAlum.htm

That impeller look like the same that you had?  If so, that means the stock
GMB pump probly requires the thicker gasket  ;o((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:24:58 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

At 12:30 AM 2/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>On Wed, 25 Feb 2004, SteveH wrote:
>
>> Other marquees don't even have as much engine-ID info as Olds; the
>> ONLY way you can ID most Poncho engines, for example, is through
>> the two-letter code punched into the front of the block (if you know
>> where to look for it) and even that doesn't work half the time since
>> Poncho reused many codes through the years.
>
>The later engines ('69 and on(?)) had it cast on the side of the
>engine... 350, 400, 455.  It's up towards the front, but I forget if it's
>on the left or right.  I'm thinking right.
>
>Of course, this didn't tell you alot, but it tells you the displacement...
>which is the first thing we try to increase!

Not knowing that, gives ye an idea how long it's been since I played with a
Poncho  ;o(((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:17:33 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

At 10:22 PM 2/25/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>>3. If yer really stuck, doesn't sound like you have much alternative 
>>other than to stack a pair of "normal" gaskets. Use gasket sealer 
>>between them as well as to the pump and block.
>
>>From an engineering standpoint, that's not a good idea.

Natcherly not; but sometimes, when something's designed as apparently
haphardously as that Flowcooler pump, one has to do unwise things  ;o\

>To rely on gasket thickness for spacing is asking for trouble, 
>even though it's been done in the past. That doesn't make it right.

Totally agree.

>If Flowkooler plays these kind of games, it would make me leery of 
>using one.

I already decided long ago, before this issue came up, I wouldn't use a
Flowcooler anything. Their stuff just looks too shoddy and poorly thought-out.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 01:44:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Amadei <amadei@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?

Are you sure he doesn't have 'collectible' or 'special'... I can't
remember the exact name... maybe it was called 'custom'... basically, it's
like 'historic', but for cars newer than 25 years old.  However, you are
supposed to justify that it is a collectable or historically significant
auto.

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 77w30442@comcast.net wrote:

> my friend has modified on his 79 trans am. i will have to ask him.
> ron
> > At 09:07 AM 02/24/2004 -0500, ron fama wrote:
> > >  go modified  registration, all you need is to retain the cats
> > >  not as many limitations as historic
> > >  contact dmv for more info
> >
> > I just did a quick check at
> > http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/cit_plates/specalh.htm and it says that for
> > Modified Vehicles, it gets a "Street Rod" plate, but also that it must be
> > pre-1949.
> >
> > Has this changed and the website's not updated?  Have you tried this for
> > your cars?
> >
> > Thanks for any further info you've got.
> >
> > 	- Joe Vahabzadeh
> >
>

					----Steve
Stephen Amadei
Dandy.NET!  CTO/CSO
Atlantic City, NJ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 23:56:18 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

I've got to find the time to get the digital camera working and get the
USB-1 port installed in the computer. Then, I'll take pictures of a brand
new Sealed Power cast iron housing cast iron impeller water pump.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket


> At 10:22 PM 2/25/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >>3. If yer really stuck, doesn't sound like you have much alternative
> >>other than to stack a pair of "normal" gaskets. Use gasket sealer
> >>between them as well as to the pump and block.
> >
> >>From an engineering standpoint, that's not a good idea.
>
> Natcherly not; but sometimes, when something's designed as apparently
> haphardously as that Flowcooler pump, one has to do unwise things  ;o\
>
> >To rely on gasket thickness for spacing is asking for trouble,
> >even though it's been done in the past. That doesn't make it right.
>
> Totally agree.
>
> >If Flowkooler plays these kind of games, it would make me leery of
> >using one.
>
> I already decided long ago, before this issue came up, I wouldn't use a
> Flowcooler anything. Their stuff just looks too shoddy and poorly
thought-out.
>
> SteveH
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 02:18:21 -0500
From: "Andrew Geeting" <geeting@woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

The one on my brother's car has been running just fine with this gasket in
place. No leaks whatsoever.

The gasket isn't much thicker (if at all) than the Mr.Gasket fiber intake
gaskets. Those have water running through them from the heads to the intake
manifold so why wouldn't those be a bad idea also in this case?
Just wondering,

Andrew Geeting
geeting@woh.rr.com
'87 Cutlass Supreme 461
'98 Olds Intrigue 3.8L
http://home.woh.rr.com/designsofarch/index/olds_site/olds.swf

> I just measured the two slightly different OEM Olds water pump gaskets in
my
> inventory. They both are 0.033" thick. Too thick of a paper gasket can
have
> pressure sealing issues, especially when holding back hot water/coolant.
It
> just sounds strange the gasket would be that thick.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:27:26 +0100
From: "Trond-Jarle Pedersen" <olds69@olds69.com>
Subject: RE: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 -  1whitee2

One should get the clue when he reads your feedback...
People these days....
On the other side he is obviously a bowtie fan and some of them are born
clueless..

Trond-Jarle Pedersen

olds69@olds69.com
http://www.olds69.com/ 


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Christopher Witt
Sent: 26. februar 2004 02:17
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 - 1whitee2


>From: bowtiesblus@yahoo.com
>To: RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>Subject: Item #2461083074 - Notification of an Instant Payment Received 
>from 1whitee2 (bowtiesblus@yahoo.com)
>Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:29:14 -0800

>Note: Rocket scientist(questionable)
================
Chris wonders WTH that was all about:
???????

This paypal payment is for ebay item
>#2461083074-Kcarb Q-jet #7042208 72 Chevy No Res 750 cfm. Got it ?
==============
Chris: Like _I_ am the dolt here?

Winning bidder- 1whitee2--Ellis White 2048 W. 1600 N. St. George, Utah 84770
============
Careful, don't put that address on separate lines so that it looks right!



>(435)-652-9208 Please note it BETTER be what you claim it is!
>------------------------------
>Ellis White's CONFIRMED Address
>------------------------------
>
>Ellis White
>2048 W. 1600 N.
>St. George, UT
>84770
>United States
==================
Are we anticipating a problem here, Ellis?
Did you not ck my impeccable ebay reputation/ feedback file?
Or, is this some sort of bad joke, that Ch*vy people would understand?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 09:37:55 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

As I wrote, this car must give better mpg if everything is working properly.
What I don't understand is how the EGR could improve the efficiency of the
termal proces of fuel combustion adding some exh gases to the air-fuel
mixture. Simple logic is suggesting it can only make things worse. Of course
I don't talk about the ecologic issue ( NOx), only about mph and HP.
OTOH, your Caddy has an ECU? Oxy sensor? Is th edistributoe a normal HEI
with vacuum advance? You can connect a Air/Fuel ratio indicator ( USD
20->30) and check how is the A/F or , if you are a techman, you can use a
digital voltmeter as well.
rgds
Matt
P.S. YOur Rochester is not a 850cfm super power overrich racing beast,
right?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:44:54 +0100
From: "Trond-Jarle Pedersen" <olds69@olds69.com>
Subject: RE: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...

Everything is possible.
Although it would probably cost you an arm, a leg and your first born....
You would have to remanufacture a new HIGH pressure fuel log, and adapt all
the electronics to fit on the 350, (probably one million sensors) and
reprogram the control unit. These systems also work best with a turbo
charger so I would suggest that you manufactured an exhaust manifold to fit
a turbo.
On the other side fitting a powermax would be funny (and almost but not
quite as much work)
The common rail systems were first found in Volvos FH12 truck, I do think
white runs on the same 12liter overhead cam engine, it is a great principle
to get acceptable performance and emission of an diesel engine

Trond-Jarle Pedersen

olds69@olds69.com
http://www.olds69.com/ 

- ------------------------------
Loking at an Automotive Engineering magazine from 2002 the other day
They go on about this new thing called "Common rail" diesel injection, much 
higher pressure, like 29,000 psi, and they initiate comustion with 2 teensy 
pre-injections, then a Big One, then an afterburn injection. Supposed to 
make diesels VERY well mannered and quiet.

Wondering if such a system could be retrofitted to the 350 Diesel, which has

a reputation of having a lame pump, and of course sounds like a tractor 
engine.
- ----------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 09:45:42 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...

The Olds diesel should have a Comet comb chambers, with a small
precombustion chamber and a bigger one over the piston, so the head would be
impossible to modifie...
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:54:29 EST
From: Kt8321@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowkooler replacement gasket

- --part1_1e.2395f67f.2d6f4685_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Flowkooler pumps come with 2 gaskets of different thickness. The thicker 
gasket is to be used if there is a clearance problem between the back of the pump 
impeller and the timing cover plate. You can check this by mounting the pump 
with the thin gasket, then turning the pump shaft to check for drag. Being 
lazy, and not wanting to maybe have to pull the pump again, I used the thick 
gasket. Gasket blew at less than 100 miles, so, had to pull the pump anyway. Second 
time, I tried the thin gasket, clearance was fine. Less than 500 miles, that 
one croaked due to the bolts loosening. 3rd time I used a standard pump gasket 
from Advance with Loc-tite AND lock washers. After  3000 miles of city and 
HIGH SPEED interstate, the pump is still tight and no leaks. HTH.
Ken Thomas
2 Deltas
69 & 71

- --part1_1e.2395f67f.2d6f4685_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Flowkooler pumps come with 2 gasket=
s of different thickness. The thicker gasket is to be used if there is a cle=
arance problem between the back of the pump impeller and the timing cover pl=
ate. You can check this by mounting the pump with the thin gasket, then turn=
ing the pump shaft to check for drag. Being lazy, and not wanting to maybe h=
ave to pull the pump again, I used the thick gasket. Gasket blew at less tha=
n 100 miles, so, had to pull the pump anyway. Second time, I tried the thin=20=
gasket, clearance was fine. Less than 500 miles, that one croaked due to the=
 bolts loosening. 3rd time I used a standard pump gasket from Advance with L=
oc-tite AND lock washers. After&nbsp; 3000 miles of city and HIGH SPEED inte=
rstate, the pump is still tight and no leaks. HTH.<BR>
Ken Thomas<BR>
2 Deltas<BR>
69 &amp; 71</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1e.2395f67f.2d6f4685_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:52:57 -0500
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 -  1whitee2

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher Witt [mailto:rocketscience442@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 8:17 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 - 1whitee2
> 
> >(435)-652-9208 Please note it BETTER be what you claim it is!
> >------------------------------
> >Ellis White's CONFIRMED Address
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Ellis White
> >2048 W. 1600 N.
> >St. George, UT
> >84770
> >United States
> ==================
> Are we anticipating a problem here, Ellis?
> Did you not ck my impeccable ebay reputation/ feedback file?
> Or, is this some sort of bad joke, that Ch*vy people would understand?
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911

This guy's giving you all of this grief over a carb that's costing him
$9.76!  Good thing you're not selling a $2,000 Air Cleaner, sheesh...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:02:57 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

> What I don't understand is how the EGR could improve the efficiency of the
> termal proces of fuel combustion adding some exh gases to the air-fuel
> mixture. Simple logic is suggesting it can only make things worse.

The EGR, if working properly, allows increased timing advance and a slightly
leaner mixture without destructive pinging.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 14:09:21 +0100
From: "Trond-Jarle Pedersen" <olds69@olds69.com>
Subject: RE: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...

Ahhhh

That is absolutely correct, forgot that.
So you would have to fabricate new heads too...
:-)
Include your second child in the bill....

Trond-Jarle Pedersen

olds69@olds69.com
http://www.olds69.com/ 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Tour Op & Travel
Agency Trade 2000
Sent: 26. februar 2004 13:46
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...

The Olds diesel should have a Comet comb chambers, with a small
precombustion chamber and a bigger one over the piston, so the head would be
impossible to modifie...
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:28:48 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: seatbelts

Unfortunately, legality isn't the only consideration. I envision a 
situation in which insurance reimbursement or coverage is denied 
when/if it is discovered that you were using non-DOT equipment. It's 
not right, but you know how, well, *evil* some insurance companies can 
be. You can argue that the racing stuff's better, and you'll be right, 
but you'll probably have to go to court to do it.
I'm with you, at least in the arena of safety equipment. SFI/FIA safety 
gear is always going to be better than the consumer stuff.
I'm still putting 5-points in my '70 eventually.

krw
On Feb 24, 2004, at 11:39 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 10:37:57 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: seatbelts
>
> I talked to a Pima County (Tucson) Sheriff's Deputy last night. He 
> said that
> Arizona simply enforces whether or not one is wearing a seat belt. They
> would *not* check to see if it's DOT approved. Furthermore, he said 
> that any
> deputy would understand the difference between an OEM seat belt or 
> shoulder
> harness and a racing one. If a deputy saw a 3" wide racing seat belt 
> or a
> full 4 or 5 point racing harness system, the most he would say would be
> "good choice."
>
> Now that doesn't mean that another repressive state might not have a 
> stupid
> attitude, but that's another story. So far, Arizona is the most 
> repressive
> with vehicle emissions but doesn't care about DOT safety equipment
> substitutions.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
Kevin Wright                                krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                   http://www.wankel.net/~krwright

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 10:21:17 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

Fred, what is the fuel octan number in use over there ? With the incredibly
low CR Olds engines have since 73 on, there should be no pb with nowadays
fuels. Next, with the computer control there is no way to lower the AF
ratio... must be 14.7:1 anyway.
The Egr lowers the comb temperature making the production of NOx lower but
spoiling the termal eficiency of the engine, hence less power or less mpg.
AFAIR, Milton thinks the same, right?
Now, in a no ECU engine this could be true... but, my 260 runnig on 93
octans leadless runs lean all the time but WOT, will not ping with 16 deg of
initial advance and a lot of vacuum advance as well. Anyway, advancing the
ignition is only worth to the point where it will produce more power,
anything more is worse than a bit less.... I still dont see the mpg/HP
benefits of the EGR device...
regards
Matt

> > What I don't understand is how the EGR could improve the efficiency of
the
> > termal proces of fuel combustion adding some exh gases to the air-fuel
> > mixture. Simple logic is suggesting it can only make things worse.
>
> The EGR, if working properly, allows increased timing advance and a
slightly
> leaner mixture without destructive pinging.
>
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:39:11 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:

>I've got to find the time to get the digital camera working 
>and get the USB-1 port installed in the computer. Then, I'll 
>take pictures of a brand new Sealed Power cast iron housing 
>cast iron impeller water pump.

If you want, we could then put it here:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/OldsCooling/Cooling.htm

SteveH



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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4795
*********************************
