
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, February 5 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4765



Re: Year One Discount Code
Ammeter hook up instructions, please
Joe P. (Was Re: Ammeter...)
Removal Of Carbon On Valves?
Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
Re: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?
Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
RE: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
Re: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?
NADA Show--Olds
Re: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?
Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
RE: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
SeaFoam
Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please
Re: Joe P. (Was Re: Ammeter...)
RE: Need recommendations with a transmission problem
RE:  Year One Discount Code
Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please
New Anger-Powered Cars May Revolutionize The Way We Drive
Re: Delta 88/98 headers - was Delta 88 question
TH 300 vs TH 400
Retro GM Ingenuity!
Revamped OSR web page
Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:41:45 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Year One Discount Code

I just checked Steve Reed's E-mail. It said "Stuck4".

Steve Reed, respond. I need to order something too.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 1:43 PM
Subject: Year One Discount Code


> Just this past week or so someone posted that the 20% off
> code for Year One orders was "stuck4". I just tried that
> code on my order and it did not work - the message said it
> was either an invalid code or it had expired.
>
> Does anyone know if this is the correct code, or if there is
> another one? I need to order a well liner ASAP so I can start
> putting my top back on. Please reply directly as I am on digest
> mode and may not get a reply from the server for quite a while.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 23:12:16 -0500
From: "Joe Gutierrez" <joe_gut@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Ammeter hook up instructions, please

Can anyone provide instruction on how to hook up an Autometer Ammeter on my
72 Hurst/Olds?

The instructions appear to be written for Ford or GM and so are not clear.
Should I just splice in the ammeter in series with the battery wire on the
back of the alternator?  I'm not too keen on running all the car's power
through the ammeter under the dash, I hope there is another way.

Joe Padavano provided me instruction years ago but alas, I cannot seem to
find it.  Whatever happened to Joe anyway?  I hope he is well, I miss his
frequent posts after not reading the digests myself for a couple of years.

Joe Gutierrez
Fort Lauderdale, FL
71 442 conv't
72 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 23:30:04 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Joe P. (Was Re: Ammeter...)

In a message dated 2/3/04 10:16:52 PM Central Standard Time, 
joe_gut@ix.netcom.com writes:
- -- Joe Padavano provided me instruction years ago but alas, I cannot seem to 
find it.  Whatever happened to Joe anyway?  I hope he is well, I miss his 
frequent posts after not reading the digests myself for a couple of years. --

Don't know about others, but Joe still owes me an Edelbrock OL4B intake.  I'd 
like to know what happened to him as well.......

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:19:52 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?

Listmembers,

While I had the intake off of the 231 in my 1980 Starfire I noticed that the 
back of the intake valves were rather dirty.  I know I should have removed the 
heads, disassembled them and cleaned the valves but I really needed to get 
this car back on the road -- it's been way too long since this car was on the 
streets.

Recently we discussed removing carbon from the combustion chambers and 
possibly piston tops, but what about valves?  Is there something I can use via the 
carburetor that will clean this crud off?  Any suggestions welcome!

Thanks for the assistance, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 21:24:32 -0800
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

Question for the group -

My 65 442 has 2 underdash courtesy lights by the passenger and drivers
footwell - the ones that light up when the door is open.  They are both
shot. I swear I've seen these before but I have no idea where to get them?
Does anyone know what they are called and who carries them?

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 21:32:27 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?

Hi Ken!

>Is there something I can use via the
>carburetor that will clean this crud off?  Any suggestions welcome!

What difference will it make on a starfire? ;)

I'd just run marvel mystery oil in the gas as an additive. Follow the 
instructions on the bottle. If you go
too aggressive and any carbon bits get stuck between a valve and the seat, 
you'd be in trouble!

Good Luck!

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 21:33:42 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

What is "shot"? The bulb? Or the entire socket / assembly?

The bulb can be had at any autoparts store. Just bring your old one for 
comparison.

George

At 09:24 PM 2/3/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Question for the group -
>
>My 65 442 has 2 underdash courtesy lights by the passenger and drivers
>footwell - the ones that light up when the door is open.  They are both
>shot. I swear I've seen these before but I have no idea where to get them?
>Does anyone know what they are called and who carries them?
>
>Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:46:00 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

I think it may be the same as the license lamp GM was using at that time.
There's a pic here:

http://www.oldcarnetwork.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=
DZ00277

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Albert Penello
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 12:25 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

Question for the group -

My 65 442 has 2 underdash courtesy lights by the passenger and drivers
footwell - the ones that light up when the door is open.  They are both
shot. I swear I've seen these before but I have no idea where to get them?
Does anyone know what they are called and who carries them?

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 01:27:48 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?

> Recently we discussed removing carbon from the combustion chambers and
> possibly piston tops, but what about valves?  Is there something I can use
via the
> carburetor that will clean this crud off?  Any suggestions welcome!

- --------------------------

Ken,

GM top engine cleaner.  Great stuff. It will do the job.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 23:39:02 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: NADA Show--Olds

Just returned from Las Vegas where we spent 4 days working the NADA 
Convention.  I was surprised to see the Olds logo atop one of the big 
towers of the GM display, where they had each division's logo displayed on 
one of the towers.  We looked all over the display area and there was not 
one single other thing with OLDS on it---no literature, no promo clothing, 
nuttin.  The logo on the tower was it.  Sad...........

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 23:59:38 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Removal Of Carbon On Valves?

Ken,

> Recently we discussed removing carbon from the combustion chambers and
> possibly piston tops, but what about valves?  Is there something I can use
via the
> carburetor that will clean this crud off?  Any suggestions welcome!


Generally speaking, any carbon removing chemical will dissolve, break loose,
and remove carbon buildup from the back side of the valves, as well as
cleaning the combustion chambers and the piston tops.

If one is interested in minimizing carbon buildup in any engine driven on
the street, polishing the back side of the valves, polishing the combustion
chambers, and polishing the piston tops during the building of the engine
will facilitate natural automatic engine cleaning and removal of carbon at
higher RPMs.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:08:08 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

John,

That's not it. The '64-'65 courtesy lamp is a true teardrop shape with only
one mounting hole at the point of the teardrop.

Also, a '64-'65 Olds F-85 uses a different license plate light than that
one. It's barrel shaped.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 10:46 PM
Subject: RE: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?


> I think it may be the same as the license lamp GM was using at that time.
> There's a pic here:
>
>
http://www.oldcarnetwork.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=
> DZ00277
>
> John Nasta
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Albert Penello
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 12:25 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
>
> Question for the group -
>
> My 65 442 has 2 underdash courtesy lights by the passenger and drivers
> footwell - the ones that light up when the door is open.  They are both
> shot. I swear I've seen these before but I have no idea where to get them?
> Does anyone know what they are called and who carries them?
>
> Thanks!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 02:17:53 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

Just to clarify, I wasn't suggesting that it was a correct license lamp for
the Olds in question, and it's not listed as such on my site. I just thought
OTTOMH that it looked like the under-dash courtesy lamps in my (68) Olds.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space Systems,
Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 2:08 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

John,

That's not it. The '64-'65 courtesy lamp is a true teardrop shape with only
one mounting hole at the point of the teardrop.

Also, a '64-'65 Olds F-85 uses a different license plate light than that
one. It's barrel shaped.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 00:32:57 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?

John,

I kinda' guessed that. I was just trying to point out the differences.
Actually, if one took that license plate lamp assembly shown, and cut off
and rounded one ear and hole, and then angled the remaining ear a little, it
would be very close.

I may know where two pairs of them may exist in a local salvage yard, but I
don't have the time right now to go look, even though I need to get over
there one of these days for some other issues.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 12:17 AM
Subject: RE: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?


> Just to clarify, I wasn't suggesting that it was a correct license lamp
for
> the Olds in question, and it's not listed as such on my site. I just
thought
> OTTOMH that it looked like the under-dash courtesy lamps in my (68) Olds.
>
> John Nasta
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space
Systems,
> Inc.
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 2:08 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Where to get interior courtesy light for a 65?
>
> John,
>
> That's not it. The '64-'65 courtesy lamp is a true teardrop shape with
only
> one mounting hole at the point of the teardrop.
>
> Also, a '64-'65 Olds F-85 uses a different license plate light than that
> one. It's barrel shaped.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 07:00:58 -0500
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: SeaFoam

> What exactly is Seafoam and what does it do?

www.seafoamsales.com

Milton/List...

Seafoam's site gives much better details than I can write here. Follow the
link for the motor treatment. It gives useage details, tech info and the
material data sheet.

I've used it and it works great.

One of my customers has a landscape business and sell firewood in the
winter. He has 3 log splitters. When he fired them up this fall they just
spit and sputtered...wouldn't come up to speed. He came in for carb rebuild
kits. I gave him a can od SeaFoam and told him to dump a couple ounces in
each gas tank and let the splitters run. He came back the next day for a
case. Said he did what I told him too and within 45 mintues all three were
running like new. Said he could hear them idling up/smoothing out as the
Seafoam was working.

He's an old-timer and to convince him to try something different isn't an
easy job. He now uses it in all of his equipment and vehicles. He's been one
of my best salesmen for the product also. Word of mouth...he told some
friends and they told some friends...now I have a steady stream of guys
coming in specifically for it.

I wasn't thrilled with their Trans Tune product. I still prefer Lucas as a
bandaid for transmission and p/s unit problems.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 07:38:09 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please

> The instructions appear to be written for Ford or GM and so are not clear.
> Should I just splice in the ammeter in series with the battery wire on the
> back of the alternator?

No, that'll measue alternator current not battery current. An alternator
should go between the battery and all the positive wires except starter.

All the fusible link wires that feed the electrical system come from a
common tie point. On early cars I think that's the horn relay, on later cars
it's the starter solenoid. You should create a new insulated tie point (a
bolt through a piece of acrylic or phenolic maybe) and move all those wires
except the one that goes to the battery to it. The ammeter goes between the
battery wire (on the stud) and the other wires. The alternator should also
go to the tie point, not direct to the battery. Negative ammeter terminal is
the battery side (meter should read negative when battery is supplying
current).

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 10:16:29 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Joe P. (Was Re: Ammeter...)

hahahahahahah... we are two at least! Joe owes me a sway bar or the money
back...
Matt

> In a message dated 2/3/04 10:16:52 PM Central Standard Time,
> joe_gut@ix.netcom.com writes:
> -- Joe Padavano provided me instruction years ago but alas, I cannot seem
to
> find it.  Whatever happened to Joe anyway?  I hope he is well, I miss his
> frequent posts after not reading the digests myself for a couple of
years. --
>
> Don't know about others, but Joe still owes me an Edelbrock OL4B intake.
I'd
> like to know what happened to him as well.......
>
> Take Care,
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 07:43:04 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Need recommendations with a transmission problem

- --0-1415849236-1075909384=:25360
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

be easily solved, but I wanted to answer your question about rebuild 
prices so you would have an idea of what is available.

<snip>
and didn't have the time to pull the tranny myself, so I brought the 
car to a 
local shop (Denny's Transmissions). A performance rebuild including 
quality Redline 
clutches, a new roller sprag and hardened race, HD band, and a Hughes 
2500 RPM 
converter cost me $800. This rebuild is very strong and should last 
many, many years.


- -------------------------------------

The JO coded TH350 in my 69 W-31 was rebuilt at a reputable trans shop outside of Indy as recommended by a fellow lister (he even trailered my car there).  Basically I had a complete rebuild with HD clutches, hardened roller sprag, Trans-go shift kit on I believe the performance setting, basically the middle of a 3 settings with 3 being all out race, 1 being "general".  I asked him to rebuild my original W-31 convertor too, but unfortunately he didn't, it was just replaced with a std replacement convertor.  (although I'm going to be replacing it again soon anyway as I'll need a low stall speed when I go Pure Stock racing)  This was about 5-6 years ago (has it been that long).  Cost was about $900.  Trans shifts GREAT.  I don't even have to try to get a tire chirp on the 1-2 shift, sometimes I'll get a chirp on the 2-3 shift.  I'm REALLY looking forward to see how it performs when the hi reving original (and freshly rebuilt) engine goes back in this spring.

Chris Smetana

grp442@yahoo.com


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
- --0-1415849236-1075909384=:25360
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>be easily solved, but I wanted to answer your question about rebuild <BR>prices so you would have an idea of what is available.<BR><BR>&lt;snip&gt;<BR>and didn't have the time to pull the tranny myself, so I brought the <BR>car to a <BR>local shop (Denny's Transmissions). A performance rebuild including <BR>quality Redline <BR>clutches, a new roller sprag and hardened race, HD band, and a Hughes <BR>2500 RPM <BR>converter cost me $800. This rebuild is very strong and should last <BR>many, many years.<BR></DIV>
<P>-------------------------------------</P>
<P>The JO coded TH350 in my 69 W-31 was rebuilt at a reputable trans shop outside of Indy as recommended by a fellow lister (he even trailered my car there).&nbsp; Basically I had a complete rebuild with HD clutches, hardened roller sprag, Trans-go shift kit on I believe the performance setting, basically the middle of a 3 settings&nbsp;with 3 being all out race, 1 being "general".&nbsp; I asked him to rebuild my original W-31 convertor too, but unfortunately he didn't, it was just replaced with a std replacement convertor.&nbsp; (although I'm going to be replacing it again soon anyway as I'll need a low stall speed&nbsp;when I go Pure Stock racing)&nbsp; This was about&nbsp;5-6 years ago (has it been that long).&nbsp; Cost was about $900.&nbsp; Trans shifts GREAT.&nbsp; I don't even have to try to get a tire chirp on the 1-2 shift, sometimes I'll get a chirp on the 2-3 shift.&nbsp; I'm REALLY looking forward to see how it performs&nbsp;when the hi reving original (and freshly
 rebuilt) engine goes back in this spring.</P>
<P>Chris Smetana</P>
<P><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></P><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=21260/*http://photos.yahoo.com">New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing</a>
- --0-1415849236-1075909384=:25360--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 09:59:11 -0600
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: RE:  Year One Discount Code

Kenneth,

>Just this past week or so someone posted that the 20% off 
>code for Year One orders was "stuck4". I just tried that 
>code on my order and it did not work - the message said it 
>was either an invalid code or it had expired. 

>Does anyone know if this is the correct code, or if there is 
>another one? I need to order a well liner ASAP so I can start 
>putting my top back on. Please reply directly as I am on digest 
>mode and may not get a reply from the server for quite a while.

>Kenneth
>1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
>Phoenix, AZ

I didn't mention it in the post, but "This 20% sale is available by phone only"  The sale ends 2/11/04, and
the code is: Stuck4

HTH

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 16:25:10 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ammeter hook up instructions, please

>>The instructions appear to be written for Ford or GM and so are not clear.
>>Should I just splice in the ammeter in series with the battery wire on the
>>back of the alternator?
>
>No, that'll measure alternator current not battery current. An alternator
>should go between the battery and all the positive wires except starter.

What Dave said: That's a fine way to measure alternator output (and if 
you're a Bonneville owner, this is how you find out when it's time to change 
the alternator again :-), but won't tell you your battery charge/discharge 
condition.

To add to Dave's excellent description, the general approach to finding the 
correct place to cut in the ammeter on any car is to follow the positive 
cable from the battery up to the point where it splits to feed one fat cable 
to the starter solenoid, and feed another cable to supply everything else on 
the car. You need to cut into the Everything Else cable.

On older GM cars such as the '69 Pontiac I once had, this takes the form of 
a red 10-gauge cable coming off the starter solenoid and heading up to the 
back of the alternator. On others such as an '86 Dodge K-wagon and an '83 
BMW 528e of mine (and would someone please buy the BMW? Thank you...), that 
split occurs right at the battery, with a large cable going to the starter 
and a smaller one feeding, as I said, everything else.

In any event, once you've found the right cable, make sure you cut in a 
matching gauge of cable for the run to and from your ammeter, or optionally 
go one gauge lower (i.e. fatter) since you're adding a good 10-12 feet to 
the circuit. Cars of the '60s and '70s may have no larger than 10-gauge on 
this circuit; those of the '80s and up often use 8-gauge or higher. If the 
auto-parts store doesn't stock the necessary cable, try a home-remodeling 
store: e.g. I got the necessary 8-gauge stranded copper for the Dodge's 
ammeter from Home Depot.

Use good quality connectors, solder the connection (yes, I've soldered 1/4" 
lugs on the end of 8-gauge cable; you can do it), and securely wrap/insulate 
the results. (Again, the auto-parts store may not have the right cable 
connectors for 8 gauge and larger; I found the 1/4" lugs for 8-gauge at Ace 
Hardware.) If your ammeter registers a positive charge while the engine is 
off and a negative (drain) when running, simply swap around the cables at 
the back of the ammeter.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software — optimizes dial-up to the max! 
   http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 08:44:05 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: New Anger-Powered Cars May Revolutionize The Way We Drive

http://www.theonion.com/4005/news1.html

    With gas prices approaching $2 per gallon in some areas and gridlock on
    the rise, Detroit's three major automakers are stepping up development
    of their newest brainchild: the anger-powered car.

    "By drawing a significant percentage of its motive power from the
    unbridled temper of the American motorist, the new anger-powered car
    will change, or at least take mechanical advantage of, the way Americans
    drive," General Motors vice-chairman Robert A. Lutz said. "We plan to
    have these furiously efficient machines careening down America's
    highways, byways, and sidewalks within two years."

Later in the article, they mention the resurrection of the Plymouth Fury, so
maybe there's still hope for Oldsmobile. :-)

(For the humor-impaired: yes, the Onion is a humor site.)

  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
 / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
 \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 09:51:14 -0800 (PST)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delta 88/98 headers - was Delta 88 question

Dan  Mt Nephew with the help of his Father (my
Brother} put Super Comps for a G-body, Olds 455 on his
1967 Delta 88.  It was a job, BIG JOB!  They put a
Rack from a Mercury Capri (rear steering rack- the
Pinto is front steer)  to eliminate the big rear
sterring box, then they notched the frame for the one
tube that over the frame on the outside. My Nephew is
a tool & die maker and my Brother a welder. They had
to custom make some tie rod ends. It came out nice but
he still lost some sterring radious. He drag races
this car. It runs in the 11's and can be street
driven.  They tried everything and this was the only
way they figured out to put headers on a rear steering
B-body. Good luck, Ken 
- --- DanL <danl@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Fred,
> 
> It may be a misprint in the latest catalog flyer
> from Summit Racing, but
> there are some Hedman headers they list, that are
> purported to fit the 68
> Delta 88.  I haven't called them yet, but hope to
> get a chance tomorrow to
> confirm.
> 
> DanL
> '68 98
> 
> 


__________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 13:51:27 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: TH 300 vs TH 400

- --part1_d5.467491d.2d52992f_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

What is the difference between these two trannies? Still in my anti-computer 
controlled car quest, decided to give up the 200r-4 due to confusing TCC 
conditions. I do not want the manual switch and I kinda ascertained it would do 
harm to tranny without it. BTW it will go into an 88 CSCB if that matters

- --part1_d5.467491d.2d52992f_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>What is the d=
ifference between these two trannies? Still in my anti-computer controlled c=
ar quest, decided to give up the 200r-4 due to confusing TCC conditions. I d=
o not want the manual switch and I kinda ascertained it would do harm to tra=
nny without it. BTW it will go into an 88 CSCB if that matters</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_d5.467491d.2d52992f_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 18:11:11 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Retro GM Ingenuity!

Ok, it's not an Olds, but this is some serious retro GM cool. Hmmm... The 
stars of Cuban Monster Garage ? ;-)

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/040204/photos_ts/mdf464646

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 21:18:00 -0500
From: "W-Machines" <W-Machines@comcast.net>
Subject: Revamped OSR web page

Hello listers.  I have been pretty busy lately revamping the Oldsmobile
Street Rocket web pages and my personel web pages.  go to
www.streetrockets.com   There is now a forsale/wanted section.  It will grow
as I get more to put on.  Past events has only one for now, but many to come
very soon.  So take a gander and if you likes, send me an emal

regard
WMACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 04:01:44 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Retro GM Ingenuity!

At 06:11 PM 2/4/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Ok, it's not an Olds, but this is some serious retro GM cool. Hmmm... The 
>stars of Cuban Monster Garage ? ;-)
>
>http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/040204/photos_ts/mdf464646

Here's the news story:
http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story2&u=/ap/20040205/ap_on_re_us/cuba
ns_car_boat&e=1

I had a feeling this might have something to do with the '51 Ch*bby pickup
that the Coast Guard machine-gunned to death the last year; seems this car
was built by the same guy who built the truck  ;o(((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4765
*********************************
