
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 6 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4732



Re: Flashing hi-beams... was Re: Unsafe Driving ticket: how does it work?
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: looking for water pump 400269
Re: looking for water pump 400269
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: looking for water pump 400269
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?
Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?
Re: brake bleeding order
Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?
RE: Flashing hi-beams... was Re: Unsafe Driving ticket: how does  it work?
RE: Flashing hi-beams... was Re: Unsafe Driving ticket: how does  it work?
"kissed" by another car
Re: "kissed" by another car
Fellow olds enthusiast, looking for 68 cutlass trunk strip
RE: "kissed" by another car
RE: Fellow olds enthusiast, looking for 68 cutlass trunk strip

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 16:13:15 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Flashing hi-beams... was Re: Unsafe Driving ticket: how does it work?

Just FWIW, new cars usually flash the lights if you pull the dimmer 
stalk back, even if the lights are off.  I'm not sure if the taillights 
flash at the same time though.

At least the your-O-peeing ones :)

IMHO the police are being short sighted if they get upset by speed trap 
flashers.  The primary function of radar traps are to make people aware 
what the speed limit is and that it is being enforced, not to catch 
speeders.  Or to put it another way, radar traps are there to slow 
people down.

Each day the Calgary police call in the locations of several of 
tomorrow's radar traps so they can be published in the papers.  If they 
want to take me to court then they had better be prepared to explain why 
it's OK for them to spread the information but not OK for me to spread it.
- --

Cliff "Illegal is just a sick bird." Simpson & Kermit
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 18:51:11 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

right front,
left front,
left rear,
right rear, in that order.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:21 AM
Subject: brake bleeding order


> I just can't remember...when bleeding all four brakes, you start with the
> one farthest away from the MC, yes?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:55:37 -0300
From: "M. Raniewicz" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

Not the other way round?!
right rear -  left rear -  right front - left front?
Matt
> right front,
> left front,
> left rear,
> right rear, in that order.
> 
> Milton Schick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:08:35 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

doesn't that give time for the porportioner valve to leave bubbles in the
lines? if you gravity bleed and keep the front bleeders closed the large
resevoir wont leak down. that is where your front brakes are using, after
the rears are power bled, being the longest lines capable of handling more
volume, close the bleeders to the rear, and then gravity bleed the fronts,
being the shortest lines to carry the least volume. right rear, the longest
line, left rear 3rd longest, right front 2nd longest, left front closest to
the MC being the shortest. thatis of course you don't waste time gravity
bleeding
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


> right front,
> left front,
> left rear,
> right rear, in that order.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:21 AM
> Subject: brake bleeding order
>
>
> > I just can't remember...when bleeding all four brakes, you start with
the
> > one farthest away from the MC, yes?
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 18:15:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fellman <frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: looking for water pump 400269

- --0-69782582-1073355315=:26183
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Check on parts-- absolutely!     Don't yet know if there'd be a limit on how much I could buy per month or anything... I'd guess it'd look a little fishy if I spent more there than I'm earning!  ;o)))          Will advise...
 
                       ttyl...         Frank
===============================================================

"Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> wrote:
Frank,

> Within about a week I hope to be employed by my local Pick'n'Pull


Does that mean you can check on parts for us??? Then we send money and your
new yard would ship it?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com



- --0-69782582-1073355315=:26183
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Check on parts-- absolutely!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Don't yet know if there'd be a limit on how much I could buy per month or anything... I'd guess it'd look a little fishy if I spent more there than I'm earning!&nbsp; ;o)))&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Will advise...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ttyl...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Frank</DIV>
<DIV>===============================================================<BR><BR><B><I>"Infinite Space Systems, Inc." &lt;imp@theriver.com&gt;</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Frank,<BR><BR>&gt; Within about a week I hope to be employed by my local Pick'n'Pull<BR><BR><BR>Does that mean you can check on parts for us??? Then we send money and your<BR>new yard would ship it?<BR><BR>Milton Schick<BR>1964 442 Cutlass<BR>imp@theriver.com<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
- --0-69782582-1073355315=:26183--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 18:19:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fellman <frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: looking for water pump 400269

- --0-1894962197-1073355560=:87358
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Actually, they're hiring three of us at the same time.  Recently, Snitzer Steel bought P'n'P, telling them that within a year or two they'll be doubling in size! 
 
It's sure gonna be good to have benefits again, after 13 months without!
 
                    ttyl...        Frank
============================================================= 

Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net> wrote:
At 09:35 PM 1/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Frank,
>
>> Within about a week I hope to be employed by my local Pick'n'Pull

They have any other openings? :o)))))))))))))

- --0-1894962197-1073355560=:87358
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Actually, they're hiring three of us at the same time.&nbsp; Recently, Snitzer Steel bought P'n'P, telling them that within a year or two they'll be doubling in size! </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>It's sure gonna be good to have benefits again, after 13 months without!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ttyl...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Frank</DIV>
<DIV>=============================================================&nbsp;<BR><BR><B><I>Steve Harrison &lt;k0xp@dandy.net&gt;</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">At 09:35 PM 1/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:<BR>&gt;Frank,<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&gt; Within about a week I hope to be employed by my local Pick'n'Pull<BR><BR>They have any other openings? :o)))))))))))))<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
- --0-1894962197-1073355560=:87358--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:22:04 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

> Not the other way round?!


No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the front and work
back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding the master
cylinder first.

Therefore:

right front,
left front,
left rear,
right rear, in that order.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:29:00 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

  the simplest way to do this is grab a friend who understands directions put his can in the drivers
seat.
  top off master cyl.
   go to right rear wheel open bleeder screw tell friend to push to floor gradualy with steady psi
when pedal hits floor have him yell floor to you,  and hold pedal there. let screw open for 10
seconds then tighten, yell to friend let up ,once up youre friend will say up.
   wait 10 seconds repeat  8 times.
   this flushes and ensures no air if no leaks . then top off master cyl. go to  left rear and
repeat .after toping master cyl off,  then go to right front ,repeat, top off master, go to left
front ,repeat , top off master cyl . you should have good clean fluid and a good pedal.  cars with
abs and split channel systems are different in procedure,
  ron
   ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:08 PM
  Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


  > doesn't that give time for the porportioner valve to leave bubbles in the
  > lines? if you gravity bleed and keep the front bleeders closed the large
  > resevoir wont leak down. that is where your front brakes are using, after
  > the rears are power bled, being the longest lines capable of handling more
  > volume, close the bleeders to the rear, and then gravity bleed the fronts,
  > being the shortest lines to carry the least volume. right rear, the longest
  > line, left rear 3rd longest, right front 2nd longest, left front closest to
  > the MC being the shortest. thatis of course you don't waste time gravity
  > bleeding
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:51 PM
  > Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
  >
  >
  > > right front,
  > > left front,
  > > left rear,
  > > right rear, in that order.
  > >
  > > Milton Schick
  > > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > > imp@theriver.com
  > >
  > >
  > > ----- Original Message -----
  > > From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
  > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:21 AM
  > > Subject: brake bleeding order
  > >
  > >
  > > > I just can't remember...when bleeding all four brakes, you start with
  > the
  > > > one farthest away from the MC, yes?
  > > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:33:22 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

  as per csm
  right rear 
  left rear
  right front
  left front
  ron
   ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:22 PM
  Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


  > > Not the other way round?!
  > 
  > 
  > No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the front and work
  > back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding the master
  > cylinder first.
  > 
  > Therefore:
  > 
  > right front,
  > left front,
  > left rear,
  > right rear, in that order.
  > 
  > Milton Schick
  > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > imp@theriver.com
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:33:44 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

What if the master doesn't need to be bled? Replacing old fluid with new
fluid is done with a power bleeder and therefore no interuptions to any of
the lines. Then progress from there.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


> > Not the other way round?!
>
>
> No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the front and
work
> back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding the master
> cylinder first.
>
> Therefore:
>
> right front,
> left front,
> left rear,
> right rear, in that order.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:35:50 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

Thanks Ron. I was doing it W/O a friend! been used to not having to rely on
help!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


>
>   the simplest way to do this is grab a friend who understands directions
put his can in the drivers
> seat.
>   top off master cyl.
>    go to right rear wheel open bleeder screw tell friend to push to floor
gradualy with steady psi
> when pedal hits floor have him yell floor to you,  and hold pedal there.
let screw open for 10
> seconds then tighten, yell to friend let up ,once up youre friend will say
up.
>    wait 10 seconds repeat  8 times.
>    this flushes and ensures no air if no leaks . then top off master cyl.
go to  left rear and
> repeat .after toping master cyl off,  then go to right front ,repeat, top
off master, go to left
> front ,repeat , top off master cyl . you should have good clean fluid and
a good pedal.  cars with
> abs and split channel systems are different in procedure,
>   ron
>    ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
>   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:08 PM
>   Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
>
>
>   > doesn't that give time for the porportioner valve to leave bubbles in
the
>   > lines? if you gravity bleed and keep the front bleeders closed the
large
>   > resevoir wont leak down. that is where your front brakes are using,
after
>   > the rears are power bled, being the longest lines capable of handling
more
>   > volume, close the bleeders to the rear, and then gravity bleed the
fronts,
>   > being the shortest lines to carry the least volume. right rear, the
longest
>   > line, left rear 3rd longest, right front 2nd longest, left front
closest to
>   > the MC being the shortest. thatis of course you don't waste time
gravity
>   > bleeding
>   > ----- Original Message -----
>   > From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>   > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:51 PM
>   > Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
>   >
>   >
>   > > right front,
>   > > left front,
>   > > left rear,
>   > > right rear, in that order.
>   > >
>   > > Milton Schick
>   > > 1964 442 Cutlass
>   > > imp@theriver.com
>   > >
>   > >
>   > > ----- Original Message -----
>   > > From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>   > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   > > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:21 AM
>   > > Subject: brake bleeding order
>   > >
>   > >
>   > > > I just can't remember...when bleeding all four brakes, you start
with
>   > the
>   > > > one farthest away from the MC, yes?
>   > > >
>   > >
>   > >
>   > >
>   > >
>   >
>   >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:41:28 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

  graviety works just as well leave cap off res, and same sequence 
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:35 PM
  Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


  > Thanks Ron. I was doing it W/O a friend! been used to not having to rely on
  > help!
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
  > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:29 PM
  > Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
  > 
  > 
  > >
  > >   the simplest way to do this is grab a friend who understands directions
  > put his can in the drivers
  > > seat.
  > >   top off master cyl.
  > >    go to right rear wheel open bleeder screw tell friend to push to floor
  > gradualy with steady psi
  > > when pedal hits floor have him yell floor to you,  and hold pedal there.
  > let screw open for 10
  > > seconds then tighten, yell to friend let up ,once up youre friend will say
  > up.
  > >    wait 10 seconds repeat  8 times.
  > >    this flushes and ensures no air if no leaks . then top off master cyl.
  > go to  left rear and
  > > repeat .after toping master cyl off,  then go to right front ,repeat, top
  > off master, go to left
  > > front ,repeat , top off master cyl . you should have good clean fluid and
  > a good pedal.  cars with
  > > abs and split channel systems are different in procedure,
  > >   ron
  > >    ----- Original Message -----
  > >   From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
  > >   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > >   Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:08 PM
  > >   Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
  > >
  > >
  > >   > doesn't that give time for the porportioner valve to leave bubbles in
  > the
  > >   > lines? if you gravity bleed and keep the front bleeders closed the
  > large
  > >   > resevoir wont leak down. that is where your front brakes are using,
  > after
  > >   > the rears are power bled, being the longest lines capable of handling
  > more
  > >   > volume, close the bleeders to the rear, and then gravity bleed the
  > fronts,
  > >   > being the shortest lines to carry the least volume. right rear, the
  > longest
  > >   > line, left rear 3rd longest, right front 2nd longest, left front
  > closest to
  > >   > the MC being the shortest. thatis of course you don't waste time
  > gravity
  > >   > bleeding
  > >   > ----- Original Message -----
  > >   > From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  > >   > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > >   > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:51 PM
  > >   > Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
  > >   >
  > >   >
  > >   > > right front,
  > >   > > left front,
  > >   > > left rear,
  > >   > > right rear, in that order.
  > >   > >
  > >   > > Milton Schick
  > >   > > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > >   > > imp@theriver.com
  > >   > >
  > >   > >
  > >   > > ----- Original Message -----
  > >   > > From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
  > >   > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > >   > > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:21 AM
  > >   > > Subject: brake bleeding order
  > >   > >
  > >   > >
  > >   > > > I just can't remember...when bleeding all four brakes, you start
  > with
  > >   > the
  > >   > > > one farthest away from the MC, yes?
  > >   > > >
  > >   > >
  > >   > >
  > >   > >
  > >   > >
  > >   >
  > >   >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:53:34 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: looking for water pump 400269

Frank,

What's Snitzer Steel?

Two thoughts. First, US heavy industry, like steel mills, get pollution
credits for older cars turned in off the street as donations or up front buy
ups. Also, a steel company could use the salvage yard as a source of scrap
metal for recycling.


> telling them that within a year or two they'll be doubling in size!


With old car turn ins from the street. Just what a steel mill needs to keep
the furnaces going. We might have to get parts out of there fast, depending
on the rate of turnover.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 12:00:29 -0300
From: "M. Raniewicz" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

Well, I was tought to start from the FARTHEST point from the MC...
rgds
Matt
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


> > Not the other way round?!
>
>
> No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the front and
work
> back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding the master
> cylinder first.
>
> Therefore:
>
> right front,
> left front,
> left rear,
> right rear, in that order.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:04:44 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

Sorry, but I was taught differently 40 years ago. That's the way everyone I
ever knew did it since.

Then, we have the '65 Olds Shop Manual, on page 11-7, that says, left front,
right front, left rear, right rear, in that order. That's different yet. So
what are you going to do? If you're using a pressure bleeder tank running at
60 psi, it's all a moot point, because it no longer matters. The constant
high pressure eliminates the variables.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


>
>   as per csm
>   right rear
>   left rear
>   right front
>   left front
>   ron
>    ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:22 PM
>   Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
>
>
>   > > Not the other way round?!
>   >
>   >
>   > No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the front and
work
>   > back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding the
master
>   > cylinder first.
>   >
>   > Therefore:
>   >
>   > right front,
>   > left front,
>   > left rear,
>   > right rear, in that order.
>   >
>   > Milton Schick
>   > 1964 442 Cutlass
>   > imp@theriver.com
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 22:09:30 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

  1976 sevice manual shows furthest to closest
   but in  all reality the front are seperate chanels where rear share a common suply line so it
would work in any  case
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 10:04 PM
  Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


  > Sorry, but I was taught differently 40 years ago. That's the way everyone I
  > ever knew did it since.
  >
  > Then, we have the '65 Olds Shop Manual, on page 11-7, that says, left front,
  > right front, left rear, right rear, in that order. That's different yet. So
  > what are you going to do? If you're using a pressure bleeder tank running at
  > 60 psi, it's all a moot point, because it no longer matters. The constant
  > high pressure eliminates the variables.
  >
  > Milton Schick
  > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > imp@theriver.com
  >
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
  > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 7:33 PM
  > Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
  >
  >
  > >
  > >   as per csm
  > >   right rear
  > >   left rear
  > >   right front
  > >   left front
  > >   ron
  > >    ----- Original Message -----
  > >   From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  > >   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > >   Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:22 PM
  > >   Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
  > >
  > >
  > >   > > Not the other way round?!
  > >   >
  > >   >
  > >   > No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the front and
  > work
  > >   > back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding the
  > master
  > >   > cylinder first.
  > >   >
  > >   > Therefore:
  > >   >
  > >   > right front,
  > >   > left front,
  > >   > left rear,
  > >   > right rear, in that order.
  > >   >
  > >   > Milton Schick
  > >   > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > >   > imp@theriver.com
  > >   >
  > >   >
  > >   >
  > >   >
  > >
  > >
  >
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 03:16:42 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?

At 05:54 PM 1/5/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I thought we were talking about a corroded fusebox here... Certainly I'm not 
>suggesting that you go wiping it on circuit boards...  :-)  I routinely use 
>the stuff on battery terminals, bulb sockets and the like, all with good 
>results.

It probably washes off more easily than the greases designed for the
purpose. I've used ordinary lithium grease on battery terminals but it's
gone within a few months. The best battery terminal protectors I've ever
seen were those provided by Sears with new batteries; those would typically
last over a year and prevent all signs of corrosion.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 03:14:31 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?

At 10:50 AM 1/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> ...followed by a light wipe of Vaseline petroleum jelly on the contact
>> surfaces to keep the white stuff from returning...
>
>
>Except that you didn't know what the dielectric constant of petroleum jelly
>is. Now that such nice things as silicone based dielectric tune-up grease
>exists, for spark plug wire terminals and other applications, that would be
>the preferred terminal protector of choice to prevent corrosion.

I agree about using the newer tune-up electrical contact greases; I
wouldn't allow petroleum jelly (vaseline) anywhere near my connections.
Dielectric constant isn't important insomuch as the ability of the contacts
to wipe the grease free from each other so as to make a good, low
resistance electrical contact. And, of course, the grease must not be
corrosive to either the contact materials nor the wire itself, nor damaging
to the wire insulation or the connector body material. The dielectric
constant of air, for example, is about 1; that of some microwave printed
circuit board materials can be higher than 10.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:32:30 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order

You're probably right. And since one has to go back and forth rechecking for
latent air anyway, the order could also quickly become a moot point.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: brake bleeding order


>
>   1976 sevice manual shows furthest to closest
>    but in  all reality the front are seperate chanels where rear share a
common suply line so it
> would work in any  case
>   ron
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 10:04 PM
>   Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
>
>
>   > Sorry, but I was taught differently 40 years ago. That's the way
everyone I
>   > ever knew did it since.
>   >
>   > Then, we have the '65 Olds Shop Manual, on page 11-7, that says, left
front,
>   > right front, left rear, right rear, in that order. That's different
yet. So
>   > what are you going to do? If you're using a pressure bleeder tank
running at
>   > 60 psi, it's all a moot point, because it no longer matters. The
constant
>   > high pressure eliminates the variables.
>   >
>   > Milton Schick
>   > 1964 442 Cutlass
>   > imp@theriver.com
>   >
>   >
>   > ----- Original Message -----
>   > From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
>   > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 7:33 PM
>   > Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
>   >
>   >
>   > >
>   > >   as per csm
>   > >   right rear
>   > >   left rear
>   > >   right front
>   > >   left front
>   > >   ron
>   > >    ----- Original Message -----
>   > >   From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>   > >   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   > >   Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:22 PM
>   > >   Subject: Re: brake bleeding order
>   > >
>   > >
>   > >   > > Not the other way round?!
>   > >   >
>   > >   >
>   > >   > No! The procedure is to start from the farthest point in the
front and
>   > work
>   > >   > back to end at the farthest point in the rear, after bleeding
the
>   > master
>   > >   > cylinder first.
>   > >   >
>   > >   > Therefore:
>   > >   >
>   > >   > right front,
>   > >   > left front,
>   > >   > left rear,
>   > >   > right rear, in that order.
>   > >   >
>   > >   > Milton Schick
>   > >   > 1964 442 Cutlass
>   > >   > imp@theriver.com
>   > >   >
>   > >   >
>   > >   >
>   > >   >
>   > >
>   > >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:11:05 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Contact Cleaner (Fuse box)?

> Dielectric constant isn't important insomuch as the ability of the
contacts
> to wipe the grease free from each other so as to make a good, low
> resistance electrical contact.


Correct.


> And, of course, the grease must not be
> corrosive to either the contact materials nor the wire itself, nor
damaging
> to the wire insulation or the connector body material.


That's where the silicone base for the dielectric electrical tune-up grease
comes in. The silicone is inert to all metals, while blocking moisture
absorption. That's a win-win. Also, the surface tension of silicone grease
to very agressive. It doesn't want to wipe off. That's very evident when it
gets on your hands and you wipe and wipe with a rag, and a thin film is
still there. It takes very aggressive soap to remove it.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 23:32:20 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: RE: Flashing hi-beams... was Re: Unsafe Driving ticket: how does  it work?

At 05:44 PM 01/05/2004 -0500, Steve wrote:
>On Mon, 5 Jan 2004 robert.demuth@prudential.com wrote:
>
>> For his part, Walker is pleased to win his case, but says he'll flash only
>> his brights next time. He says the only way Marlowe knew he was flashing
>> his lights was because his tail lights were going on and off.
>
>See, this is part of the problem, he was yanking the lights completely off
>and on.  When I flash (headlights, that is) I alternate between the
>headlights on and parking lights only detents... so the rear lights stay
>on (unless my switch is broken).

Erm, yes, but hard to do with the 80s-90s style GM split-rocker type switch.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 23:33:02 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: RE: Flashing hi-beams... was Re: Unsafe Driving ticket: how does  it work?

At 02:32 PM 01/05/2004 -0500, Bruce wrote:
>I saw the following AP article come across MSNBC.com in November, thought
>I'd share ....
>
>>>>>>
>Judge Dismisses Headlight Flashing Citation
>A Williamson County judge has dismissed a Franklin police citation against
>a man who warned other drivers of a speed trap.
>
>He flashed his lights at them.
<snip>

Did the article say what state this was?

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 23:33:19 EST
From: Flipx99@wmconnect.com
Subject: "kissed" by another car

- --part1_195.2482eabd.2d2b948f_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I was hit by another car on sat night. Was not my fault but the damage wasn't 
bad. Her car kinda "rubbed" mine. I figure I can buff it out. I am curious 
what would be a good kind of wax or wax type substance to accomplish this.  was 
thinking about rubbing compound but do not know enough about it to want to try 
it. The car does have the clear coat on it. Also there is a small scratch, 
does anyone have any experiences with those color matching/blending substances?

- --part1_195.2482eabd.2d2b948f_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10>I was hit by=20=
another car on sat night. Was not my fault but the damage wasn't bad. Her ca=
r kinda "rubbed" mine. I figure I can buff it out. I am curious what would b=
e a good kind of wax or wax type substance to accomplish this. &nbsp;was thi=
nking about rubbing compound but do not know enough about it to want to try=20=
it. The car does have the clear coat on it. Also there is a small scratch, d=
oes anyone have any experiences with those color matching/blending substance=
s?</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_195.2482eabd.2d2b948f_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 20:50:06 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: "kissed" by another car

If damage is through the paint, no buffing will fix it. There are things like coloured waxes and GT88 that hide fine
scratches. They tend to come off if a pressure wash is used though. I try to stay away from these department store
brands. Use a Mcguires or mothers rubbing compound, then polish and wax.

Wet the surface, the scratches that disappear will buff out. The ones that don't will not.

There are touch up companies that are quite good with airbrushing small areas at a reasonable price. Look into them as
an alternative.

Kevin


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Flipx99@wmconnect.com>
To: <oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>; <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:33 PM
Subject: "kissed" by another car


> I was hit by another car on sat night. Was not my fault but the damage wasn't
> bad. Her car kinda "rubbed" mine. I figure I can buff it out. I am curious
> what would be a good kind of wax or wax type substance to accomplish this.  was
> thinking about rubbing compound but do not know enough about it to want to try
> it. The car does have the clear coat on it. Also there is a small scratch,
> does anyone have any experiences with those color matching/blending substances?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 20:54:45 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Fellow olds enthusiast, looking for 68 cutlass trunk strip

Received this privately. Anyone can help? I know this is a hard to come by 
part in perfect (still foggy background) condition.

Cheers, George

- --- Joe Castaing <joecastaing@yahoo.com> wrote:
 > Hey,
 >
 > Hows that project coming along?  I also have a 68 Cutlass S
 > Convert....I'm looking for the chrome truck strip that goes across the
 > lid.  Any idea how / who may have that?  Please let me know.  I've
 > included a pic of my car.
 >
 > -Thx.
 > JC.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 00:11:11 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: "kissed" by another car

How about polishing compound? I believe it's less abrasive than rubbing
compound.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Kevin & Casey Olund
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 11:50 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: "kissed" by another car

If damage is through the paint, no buffing will fix it. There are things
like coloured waxes and GT88 that hide fine
scratches. They tend to come off if a pressure wash is used though. I try to
stay away from these department store
brands. Use a Mcguires or mothers rubbing compound, then polish and wax.

Wet the surface, the scratches that disappear will buff out. The ones that
don't will not.

There are touch up companies that are quite good with airbrushing small
areas at a reasonable price. Look into them as
an alternative.

Kevin


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Flipx99@wmconnect.com>
To: <oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>; <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:33 PM
Subject: "kissed" by another car


> I was hit by another car on sat night. Was not my fault but the damage
wasn't
> bad. Her car kinda "rubbed" mine. I figure I can buff it out. I am curious
> what would be a good kind of wax or wax type substance to accomplish this.
was
> thinking about rubbing compound but do not know enough about it to want to
try
> it. The car does have the clear coat on it. Also there is a small scratch,
> does anyone have any experiences with those color matching/blending
substances?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 00:10:12 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Fellow olds enthusiast, looking for 68 cutlass trunk strip

If you have the original, you can have it restored by Everett Horton at
S61Starfir@aol.com

I have seen some of the restored pieces myself and they really come out
beautiful. Probably better than new.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of geo.aigel@netzero.net
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 11:55 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Fellow olds enthusiast, looking for 68 cutlass trunk strip

Received this privately. Anyone can help? I know this is a hard to come by
part in perfect (still foggy background) condition.

Cheers, George

- --- Joe Castaing <joecastaing@yahoo.com> wrote:
 > Hey,
 >
 > Hows that project coming along?  I also have a 68 Cutlass S
 > Convert....I'm looking for the chrome truck strip that goes across the
 > lid.  Any idea how / who may have that?  Please let me know.  I've
 > included a pic of my car.
 >
 > -Thx.
 > JC.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4732
*********************************
