
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, February 26 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4794



Re: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..
Re: shake?
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
RE: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..
Re: will my project car be illegal?
RE: Beemers and 3M [was: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)]
hardened seats
Re: shake?
RE: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: shake?
Re: shaky 330/350
Re: shake?
Re: shake?
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
Re: shake?
RE: shake?
Starter/Alternator Rebuilder
Flowkooler Replacement Gasket
Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 -  1whitee2
Re: shake?
Need assistance from 1969 442 expert! [Air cleaner authentication- 98=442?]
Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350
bop car show
Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?
What a find - NOS 71 Toro radiators by the dozen.
Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...
J-2 ROCKER COVERS f/s - NOS -
Re: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?
Re: Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?
Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:51:50 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..

John,

> go to start it up again... turn the key ,,,  WAHBAM, battery explodes,
negative side of battery has an inspection window, hmm so thats what the
inside of a battery looks like .... sure glad I wasnt standing next to it.
> So, what would cause a spark inside the battery? I would prefer not to
have this experience again if possible. Is there something I did wrong?


You did nothing wrong. It was the battery. That battery was so badly
sulfated inside, several cells shorted out together, that it wouldn't hold a
charge, but it had a very bad internal short. Your battery test when the
switch was held open and the volts drained down like mad was the key. When
you jump started the engine, it can fire and run off the alternator, but the
battery is refusing the charge, because it's shorting out internally. That
energy the alternator is trying to put in the battery, but the battery is
shorting out, has to go somewhere. When the engine was shutoff, then you
turned around and jumped it again, you were putting in a full electrical
charge from a good system, and the battery simply wouldn't take it. The
internal battery short caused the bad battery to explode. That's why one
needs to be very careful when jump starting another vehicle. If the cause is
a very badly shorted out battery, explosions can occur. The rapid succession
of energy input caused the shorted battery to explode. It's even possible
that if it hadn't blown then, during the owner's trip to Wally-World the
battery would have exploded due to the input from the alternator. Since the
battery is internally shorting, the alternator regulator will see it as a
demand open circuit and keep feeding electricity in. Eventually, the heat
generated by the excess electricity going nowhere will cause an explosion.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:00:22 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

John,

> in a new set of plugs for
> a 350 instead of the 330 plugs I have been running, might even be the same
> plug
> not sure...


Same plug for all Olds 330, 350, 400, 425, 455 engines. Non-resistor numbers
are:

AC 44S or 45S
Champion J10YC or J12-YC
Autolite 74 or 75

The lower number is for continuous high speed driving and the higher number
is for exclusive city driving.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:56:54 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

On Tue, Feb 24, 2004 at 06:13:53PM -0800, Andy Sanchez wrote:
> With gas prices going insane in CA (where I am).. I am realizing that 9MPG
> in town out of my 350 olds with Rochester 4bbl is not going to be
> affordable driving for much longer.

Have you tried rebuilding your carb yet?  Mine is still running on its
Quadrajet, and it's always gotten somewhere around 11-13 mpg around town (up
to 16 mpg on the highway).  Mine was gunked up with over a quarter-century
of varnish to the point where the fast idle wouldn't always disengage.  That
problem's now fixed, and it's getting a little bit better mileage.  (It
could still use some adjustment, as it runs a bit too rich when it's cold.)

Even before that, though, I don't think I ever saw such lousy mileage as
what you're describing.  Do you have a high-ratio rear end in it, or
something else that'd make the engine work harder?

  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
 / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
 \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:05:04 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

John,

> looking at the H.B. that came on it and the one
> that I got rebuilt from Joe "M" they are one in the same....  does not
> appear to have changed at all, so, I am thinking that nothing was balanced
> when they put this motor back together....


Which harmonic balancer is on it now? The original or Mondello's? If the
original, check the outer ring and see if it's loose, like Steve said. If
loose, install the Mondello and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise,
look at spark plugs.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:06:42 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:

>Hey Steve,
>Yes the flywheel is off a 400, but it is my understanding that 
>all flywheel were the same for big or small blocks.....  ???

If they were, I'd be REAL surprised. Flywheels are usually balanced 
to a particular engine type which uses particular rods, pistons and 
crank. The crank weights usually aren't enough to fully-balance the 
reciprocating weight of the pistons/rods and so additional weight 
is added/removed to the flywheel and/or harmonic balancer to complete 
the job.

>Tell me why I should take the tranny and clutch pack off 
>and put it back on again? Lost me with that one..

If you remove the clutch and tranny assembly, you eliminate them 
as a cause of the unbalance. So if the engine still has the vibration/shake,
it's likely due to the flywheel, presuming that when you had it 
running with the automatice earlier, it did not shake/shimmy (and 
also presuming you didn't change the harmonic balancer). If it still 
occurs, then you've probably got the wrong flywheel. Or, of course,
you've now got other problems like a missing cylinder.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:22:51 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

     Milton,
    The new one is on there now....  

 
> Which harmonic balancer is on it now? The original or Mondello's? If the
> original, check the outer ring and see if it's loose, like Steve said. If
> loose, install the Mondello and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise,
> look at spark plugs.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 11:22:49 -0800
From: Andy Sanchez <andythrsh@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

The fast idle/choke work fine- proper disengament.

This is a 1980 Caddy Seville FWD (like Toronoado) Probably 2.19 gear 
ratio? It was a diesel
which now has the 350 Olds in it. No smog equipment to speak of. I just 
added dual exhaust to it,
4 days ago. Seems to be doing a bit better.. but haven't filled up yet 
to calculate current MPG's.

I have given consideration of rebuilding the Rochester , but just am 
curious is all. The caddy weighs
about the same as your '77 cutlass? 3,800 # or so. ?

Andy

Scott Alfter wrote:

>On Tue, Feb 24, 2004 at 06:13:53PM -0800, Andy Sanchez wrote:
>  
>
>>With gas prices going insane in CA (where I am).. I am realizing that 9MPG
>>in town out of my 350 olds with Rochester 4bbl is not going to be
>>affordable driving for much longer.
>>    
>>
>
>Have you tried rebuilding your carb yet?  Mine is still running on its
>Quadrajet, and it's always gotten somewhere around 11-13 mpg around town (up
>to 16 mpg on the highway).  Mine was gunked up with over a quarter-century
>of varnish to the point where the fast idle wouldn't always disengage.  That
>problem's now fixed, and it's getting a little bit better mileage.  (It
>could still use some adjustment, as it runs a bit too rich when it's cold.)
>
>Even before that, though, I don't think I ever saw such lousy mileage as
>what you're describing.  Do you have a high-ratio rear end in it, or
>something else that'd make the engine work harder?
>
>  _/_   Scott Alfter (scott at alfter dot usTRAPEZOID minus shape)
> / v \  '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>(IIGS(  http://alfter.us/
> \_^_/  rm -rf /bin/laden
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:14:05 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Starter problems, 93 fwd Pontiac(closure) and 64 Olds Super 88..

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:
>So, what would cause a spark inside the battery?

The lead plates are interconnected with lead straps. Sometimes, the 
lead straps break and the battery seems to have lost considerable 
capacity or might appear dead altogether. What likely happened in 
your case was a broken lead strap made momentary contact while you 
were trying to draw starter current, creating a nice large spark 
which caused the build-up of hydrogen gas to explode.

>I would prefer not to have this experience again if possible. 
>Is there something I did wrong? 

Probably not; her battery probably had that problem all along. I've 
had that happen twice and one of those times, I was fortunate to 
have been watching between the rear of the hood and windshield, looking 
for sparks from a loose battery cable as I tried to get the car started 
at night. What I noticed, though, was a series of strangely-colored 
sparks INSIDE the battery. That scared the living heck outta me..
 I waited half an hour before very carefully disconnecting the battery,
placing it inside a cupla strong cardboard boxes, then taking it 
back to the store. It was only two months old, too.

>Sorry for non-olds content, But maybe this help someone with 
>a problem somewhere down the road, and if nothing else, remind 
>people to use caution when jumping batterys..

I've always had a problem with those battery-carrier straps that 
clip onto the battery terminals. I've had a cupla batteries that 
cracked around the top posts and remember seeing my uncle carrying 
one battery once whose post just pulled right outta the top. The 
only thing keeping those posts inside the plastic are those lead 
interconnecting straps so by hanging a battery with those straps,
you're putting all that tension on those straps, which weren't designed 
to hang 30-40 pounds from.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:23:40 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: will my project car be illegal?

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:
>At the risk of getting us even further off-topic, I think 
>I'd be more concerned about their reaction to finding an 
>engine with all its identifying serial numbers filed off 
>than to their finding the "wrong" engine in there in the 
>first place.

I submit that unless the inspector is a true, dyed-in-the-blue Olds 
fanatic, almost NO inspector will have the vaguest idea where the 
block casting code is located on an Olds block. And as for the VIN 
derivative, forget it: some didn't even have it and on others, like 
a certain 403 I recently saw, the pad can be so rusty that you can't 
even tell it was ever stamped.

Other marquees don't even have as much engine-ID info as Olds; the 
ONLY way you can ID most Poncho engines, for example, is through 
the two-letter code punched into the front of the block (if you know 
where to look for it) and even that doesn't work half the time since 
Poncho reused many codes through the years.

I haven't the vaguest idea, nor do I give much of a flying doughnut,
how to ID Ch*bby or Frod small blocks  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 19:34:28 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Beemers and 3M [was: Stuck distributor (really X%#$ stuck!)]

>Yea thanks Andy, very enjoyable reading.  Sounds like one of my typical
>projects.

I'm pleased to say that the BMW was sold last Monday evening. Got my asking 
price, too.  :-)

>I've also had some fun lately discovering the idiosyncrasies from the
>Germans on my '87 325e.  They build a lot of things to last and a handful 
>of
>things that just don't work (can you say "Idle Control Valve"?).

Although I didn't explicitly state it, the Olds relevance there was along 
the lines of, "Thank God GM didn't design <offending_part_here> the way BMW 
did it." There were several components on the car that fit that definition, 
such as wildly oversized wheel bearing nuts requiring a three-figure torque 
setting using a wrench that most amateur mechanics wouldn't own (a 47mm 
socket on a 3/4"-drive torque wrench? Right.), but the most egregious design 
blunder (let's all say that together: "EGREGIOUS"! :-) would have to be that 
unlike GM cars, the lower spring mount is on a non-renewable part of the 
MacPherson strut, so that when rust weakens it, it eventually blows out and 
allows the suspension to collapse onto the wheel.

The design is intended to use replaceable cartridges within the strut, but 
the part under the most load, the spring mount, never gets replaced (and 
it's also not clear how easy it would be to unscrew the cartridge from the 
strut housing anyway; I had the luxury of slicing my old housing down the 
side since I was replacing it and wanted to salvage the cartridge.) Your 
typical MacPherson strut replacement for a GM car includes that lower spring 
mount, and I can tell you from my own experience that that gives me some 
peace of mind.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200365ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 16:27:50 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: hardened seats

Wondering if I must put them on the 1968 heads to be able to use the
leadless gas in the 468 ci being built now...?
I'd rather not, a lot of persons wrote about their engines running ok
without them.
I plan to drive it daily but little, almost ho high speed cruisng and some
WOT from time to time for a pleasure...
any real, first hand experience of sunk exh seats?
I guess I will make 4000 miles a year
rgds and TIA !
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:39:33 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

  Steve,
   Okay, I think I understand now, you want me to start the motor after I
pull the
flywheel...  I am sorry, I did not understand that part, and yes that would
make sense. As for the flywheels the H.B. are different for the small block
and big block, that would make up the diff. in weight from one to the
other... at least that would be my thinking....
john

>
> If they were, I'd be REAL surprised. Flywheels are usually balanced
> to a particular engine type which uses particular rods, pistons and
> crank. The crank weights usually aren't enough to fully-balance the
> reciprocating weight of the pistons/rods and so additional weight
> is added/removed to the flywheel and/or harmonic balancer to complete
> the job.

> If you remove the clutch and tranny assembly, you eliminate them
> as a cause of the unbalance. So if the engine still has the
vibration/shake,
> it's likely due to the flywheel, presuming that when you had it
> running with the automatice earlier, it did not shake/shimmy (and
> also presuming you didn't change the harmonic balancer). If it still
> occurs, then you've probably got the wrong flywheel. Or, of course,
> you've now got other problems like a missing cylinder.
>
> SteveH
>
>
>
> ===================================================================
> EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
> ===================================================================
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:42:38 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

Sounds correct to me.  At least, that's what my 82 Toro weighs (AC, big
spare not the speed doughnut, tools in).
Ian
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Book of Andy:
I have given consideration of rebuilding the Rochester , but just am 
curious is all. The caddy weighs
about the same as your '77 cutlass? 3,800 # or so. ?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:48:32 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:

>Milton,
>As for the run off, I can't tell you the truth about 
>that, I can tell you that everything looked and felt 
>fine when I was checking out the M20.... but to say 
>that I was looking for run out while it was in gear...  
>no, but did not notice any wobble anywhere....

Manual tranny input shaft runout is normally not much of a problem,
as long as the input bearing is good, because the pilot bearing 
inside the crankshaft supports and keeps the far end of the input 
shaft centered. There is normally noticeable wobbling of the input 
shaft in any case.

>Yes, this is in fact the motor Milton, it is a 350 1972 
>with 7a heads and a 330 steel crank....

Did you have that crank balanced with the 350 rods and pistons and 
the flywheel??

Running the engine without the tranny and clutch assy will eliminate 
them as the cause of the vibration. But it'd be easier to first thoroughly 
check out the ignition system including wires and plugs. If you can't 
find a bad plug or wire, connect the timing light to each cylinder 
and make sure the light flashes the same on them all. If you can't 
find anything wrong, then do a compression test which will pinpoint 
a weak cylinder.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:55:14 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shaky 330/350

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:

>Hey List,
>The flywheel came from a 67' 442 - all 330/400/425 from 
>64-67 used the same "early pattern" fly wheel............ 
>there is no difference .....
>In 67' , the 2 barrell low compression cars used a "hub" 
>rather than a balancer.
>All 4 barrel and high compression cars used the two piece 
>balancer with the rubber ring.

Well, that sounds like the flywheel/balancer are less suspect. And 
with his statement that the engine doesn't seem to be shaking as 
much today, it sounds more like the engine itself, perhaps just a 
sooty plug that's getting blown cleaner as it runs.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 15:11:08 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

At Wednesday, 25 February 2004, you wrote:

>Steve,
>Okay, I think I understand now, you want me to start the 
>motor after I pull the flywheel...

NONONONONO..... not the flywheel, just the tranny and clutch plate.
The flywheel MUST remain on the engine since it's part of the balancing 
of the rods, pistons and crank throws.

But if it's true that the shaking/vibration seems to vary, especially 
day-to-day, then it sounds more like plugs/wires or other ignition 
parts. Could even be the carb but to do that much shaking over idle 
speeds, one side would probably have to be not feeding any fuel. 
That's not likely since you just had it rebuilt. OTOH, it COULD happen 
if something sneaked through, or out of, your fuel filter and clogged 
a fuel passage in the carb. Usually, when you hold the throttle open 
to several thousand rpm, you can see the fuel being sucked into the 
air stream so if you look inside and see a noticeable difference 
in one side, that could be it.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 15:56:03 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: shake?

  Steve,
   :-)  no I would not run the motor with out the flywheel....  and I have
to say
I can't rmember the last time I changed the plugs.... it's been a long
time... As for
the motor being balanced.....  I would have to say I don't think so.... to
make a long
story short.... the guy who I got the motor from told me this story about
how he had this 330 setting in his place for 14 years... rebuilt it for a
guy and his 67 drop top.... well the guy paid for most of it, then droped
off the planet...  he sells it to me for 800.00  good deal...  I never
checked to see what it was until 3 months ago or so, well after I have a
complete set up for a 4 speed swap..  so I find out it's a 72 350 with a 330
steel crank...  the motor after about 4 years now has about 4500 miles on
it...  the story is much longer but you get the point....  I am the one who
should have checked the motor... not hard to do!!   just to damn trusting I
guess...
   I can say that I wish I had taken the car out before I did the swap, and
run the piss out it... then I would know for sure what was going on here...
again thanks everybody for all the help....
john

.
> That's not likely since you just had it rebuilt. OTOH, it COULD happen
> if something sneaked through, or out of, your fuel filter and clogged
> a fuel passage in the carb. Usually, when you hold the throttle open
> to several thousand rpm, you can see the fuel being sucked into the
> air stream so if you look inside and see a noticeable difference
> in one side, that could be it.
>
> SteveH
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 16:46:53 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

> This is a 1980 Caddy Seville FWD (like Toronoado) Probably 2.19 gear
> ratio? It was a diesel
> which now has the 350 Olds in it.

2.41 is most likely.

> I have given consideration of rebuilding the Rochester , but just am
> curious is all.

Rebuild it and check all of the tune up specs carefully.  If you have
disabled the EGR, try reconnecting it and advancing the timing until just on
the edge of pinging.

>The caddy weighs
> about the same as your '77 cutlass? 3,800 # or so. ?

I think you will find that Seville to be heavier than you think.  I have an
'81 ex Diesel Sevile and it tips the scales at 4,200.   It still seems to me
that you ought to be able to get 12-14 around town if the traffic is moving
and 18-19 on the highway at steady 65 mph cruise.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 16:51:17 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

> NONONONONO..... not the flywheel, just the tranny and clutch plate.
> The flywheel MUST remain on the engine since it's part of the balancing
> of the rods, pistons and crank throws.

Not to mention that it will be a bit hard to start with nothing for the
starter to engage.


Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 16:26:26 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: shake?

Quoted from the book of Fred:
Not to mention that it will be a bit hard to start with nothing for the
starter to engage.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Done that.
Ian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:32:45 -0500
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Starter/Alternator Rebuilder

I found these folks in Hemmings.

VERY happy with the price and quality:

S&W Starter and Alternator
RR#2 Box 2129-E
Butler Park
Stroudsburg,PA18630
Ph: 570-421-5775

Rebuilt my starter to high torque specs for $50...

And it cranks like a mini starter. 

BTW - The AC Delco rebuilt starter is NOT the high torque version. Works
like crap on a 455......Ask me how I know.

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 19:58:07 -0500
From: "Mike Evans" <mevans@jasnetworks.net>
Subject: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

Has anyone found/purchased a replacement gasket for their Flowkooler
aluminum water pump?  My original one blew when the bolts quickly backed out
when I thought I could get away without using LocTite on them for one day.
Oops.  In any event, they're thick (1/16 inch) and the feeble customer
service people at Flowkooler suggest NAPA.  Of course, they give me "deer in
the headlights" stare when I tried them. ;-)

Worst case scenario, I'll hand cut one from scratch, but I'd rather just be
lazy and have one delivered to me, natch.

Thanks,
Mike Evans
Richland, MI
'76 Cutlass S/461
www.time-save.com/cutlass.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:17:08 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Trouble always a Blowtie buyer: #2461083074 -  1whitee2

>From: bowtiesblus@yahoo.com
>To: RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>Subject: Item #2461083074 - Notification of an Instant Payment Received 
>from 1whitee2 (bowtiesblus@yahoo.com)
>Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:29:14 -0800

>Note: Rocket scientist(questionable)
================
Chris wonders WTH that was all about:
???????

This paypal payment is for ebay item
>#2461083074-Kcarb Q-jet #7042208 72 Chevy No Res 750 cfm. Got it ?
==============
Chris: Like _I_ am the dolt here?

Winning bidder- 1whitee2--Ellis White 2048 W. 1600 N. St. George, Utah 84770
============
Careful, don't put that address on separate lines so that it looks right!



>(435)-652-9208 Please note it BETTER be what you claim it is!
>------------------------------
>Ellis White's CONFIRMED Address
>------------------------------
>
>Ellis White
>2048 W. 1600 N.
>St. George, UT
>84770
>United States
==================
Are we anticipating a problem here, Ellis?
Did you not ck my impeccable ebay reputation/ feedback file?
Or, is this some sort of bad joke, that Ch*vy people would understand?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:23:11 -0500
From: "John Orr" <olds330@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: shake?

   Gee, you might have a small point here...  :-)
john
67 cutlass s


> Quoted from the book of Fred:
> Not to mention that it will be a bit hard to start with nothing for the
> starter to engage.
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Done that.
> Ian
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:32:41 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Need assistance from 1969 442 expert! [Air cleaner authentication- 98=442?]

So, I have this air cleaner
it's from a 1969 98
I know 1968 98 AC is exact same unit used on the 442, same snout and all 
that.

Is this 1969 98 AClnr the exacr same as a 1969 442?

No decal or sticker ID left on it
I do not have the 1969 Ass'y Manual

Snout On the one I have is right about 9.2" long measured at the center
Snout end is [at its smallest, just behind the lip]:
  about 1.65" tall x 3.11" wide on the outside.

If this is NOT the same exact unit as used on a 1969 442, I would prefer to 
not ship it, because the buyer might not like that.

Can any of y'all with a 1969 442 do a quick snout measurement and see if 
yours is just like this one?

PLEASE, please cc me a reply DIRECTLY as I am on Digest, because I am slow. 
:-)

I sometimes have to delete digests unread, too, to make way for new emails.

THANKS!!!!
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 17:46:13 -0800
From: Andy Sanchez <andythrsh@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Carb for Olds 350

Well I found the vac advance on the dist is no longer working for one 
thing. Timing at 12BTDC . No EGR,
block off plate installed. EGR valve is not functional. I am going to 
rebuild the carbie this weekend and replace
the vac advance on the distributor. If I can't get 13 in town out of 
this car, and with the corrupt price fixing oil
companies pushing the price of gas up further.. $2.17 for regular as of 
today.. This car gets parked and maybe
I'll just put an Olds Diesel back in it!! Sorry about the ramble. I 
never liked price fixing practices.

Andy

Fred Nissen wrote:

>>This is a 1980 Caddy Seville FWD (like Toronoado) Probably 2.19 gear
>>ratio? It was a diesel
>>which now has the 350 Olds in it.
>>    
>>
>
>2.41 is most likely.
>
>  
>
>>I have given consideration of rebuilding the Rochester , but just am
>>curious is all.
>>    
>>
>
>Rebuild it and check all of the tune up specs carefully.  If you have
>disabled the EGR, try reconnecting it and advancing the timing until just on
>the edge of pinging.
>
>  
>
>>The caddy weighs
>>about the same as your '77 cutlass? 3,800 # or so. ?
>>    
>>
>
>I think you will find that Seville to be heavier than you think.  I have an
>'81 ex Diesel Sevile and it tips the scales at 4,200.   It still seems to me
>that you ought to be able to get 12-14 around town if the traffic is moving
>and 18-19 on the highway at steady 65 mph cruise.
>
>Regards,
>Fred
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:03:39 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: bop car show

- -------------------------------1077761018
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

BOPC show in Marietta,Ga April 17,2004
Jeff 770  723-9345  moe info

- -------------------------------1077761018
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>BOPC show in Marietta,Ga April 17,2004</DIV>
<DIV>Jeff 770&nbsp; 723-9345&nbsp; moe info</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1077761018--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:57:34 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?

How do you folks that do so, remove that 5/16 square drive pipe plug [the 
one with the hole in it] from the rear of the LH oil gallery?

I made 2-3 tools to do that, they worked out OK, anyone need one?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Click, drag and drop. My MSN is the simple way to design your homepage. 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:05:00 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: What a find - NOS 71 Toro radiators by the dozen.

Grampa was gonna build a swimming pool heater with them
Never got around to it
Bought outa Salvage way back when
Total qty probably 20-30 or so.

Any interest at all in such parts
Price should be Real Nice
Surprised if they cost over $100 each. Not finalized yet.

Deposit secures sale, refunded if it falls thru, of course.
Please inquire DIRECTLY to me with interest inquiries
As I am not reading toro list, and am only Digesting the Olds list.
I imagine they are 4-row and fit just about any similar era car.

PS the guy also is rumored to have other more "unusual" items in the stash.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:55:36 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Diesel CommonRail Injection improves manners greatly...

Loking at an Automotive Engineering magazine from 2002 the other day
They go on about this new thing called "Common rail" diesel injection, much 
higher pressure, like 29,000 psi, and they initiate comustion with 2 teensy 
pre-injections, then a Big One, then an afterburn injection. Supposed to 
make diesels VERY well mannered and quiet.

Wondering if such a system could be retrofitted to the 350 Diesel, which has 
a reputation of having a lame pump, and of course sounds like a tractor 
engine.

Hmmmm... Right after I win the lottery.

Article had a photo of the GM/Isuzu 6.2L PowerMax, which looks EXACTLY like 
that one I picked up for scrap a year or 2 ago. Now I know what it is 
anyhow. Just have to locate it. :-)
yes, the collection is THAT large.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Stay informed on Election 2004 and the race to Super Tuesday. 
http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:09:01 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: J-2 ROCKER COVERS f/s - NOS -

Anyone interested in NOS set of J-2 Rocker Covers?
Unpainted
With dimples to clear the ADJUSTABLE rockers used on the Hot Rods.
Friend has them, not sure what he thinks the price is.
Any interest at all?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Stay informed on Election 2004 and the race to Super Tuesday. 
http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 02:37:37 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Modified vehicle? Re: will my project car be illegal?

my friend has modified on his 79 trans am. i will have to ask him.
ron
> At 09:07 AM 02/24/2004 -0500, ron fama wrote:
> >  go modified  registration, all you need is to retain the cats
> >  not as many limitations as historic
> >  contact dmv for more info
> 
> I just did a quick check at
> http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/cit_plates/specalh.htm and it says that for
> Modified Vehicles, it gets a "Street Rod" plate, but also that it must be
> pre-1949.
> 
> Has this changed and the website's not updated?  Have you tried this for
> your cars?
> 
> Thanks for any further info you've got.
> 
> 	- Joe Vahabzadeh
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:37:07 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil gallery plug removal- got tool?

At 08:57 PM 2/25/04 -0500, you wrote:
>How do you folks that do so, remove that 5/16 square drive pipe plug [the 
>one with the hole in it] from the rear of the LH oil gallery?
>
>I made 2-3 tools to do that, they worked out OK, anyone need one?

5/16" square-stock and a 5/16" 8-point socket.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:24:51 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket

Mike,

Are you saying the Flowkooler aluminum water pump uses a different gasket
from the stock water pump???? How does that work????

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Evans" <mevans@jasnetworks.net>
To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 5:58 PM
Subject: Flowkooler Replacement Gasket


> Has anyone found/purchased a replacement gasket for their Flowkooler
> aluminum water pump?  My original one blew when the bolts quickly backed
out
> when I thought I could get away without using LocTite on them for one day.
> Oops.  In any event, they're thick (1/16 inch) and the feeble customer
> service people at Flowkooler suggest NAPA.  Of course, they give me "deer
in
> the headlights" stare when I tried them. ;-)
>
> Worst case scenario, I'll hand cut one from scratch, but I'd rather just
be
> lazy and have one delivered to me, natch.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Evans
> Richland, MI
> '76 Cutlass S/461
> www.time-save.com/cutlass.htm
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4794
*********************************
