
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, January 9 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4736



RE: need accurate W31 damper measurements
RE: Carpet - Stock Interiors
Re: need accurate W31 damper measurements
Re: need accurate W31 damper measurements
Re: DOT 5 Fluid vs. 3 & 4
Re: ahhh, warm
Re: need accurate W31 damper measurements
Re: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!
Re: Need a Door
Re: ahhh, warm
RE: UPDATE: looking for water pump 400269
RE: DOT 5 Fluid vs. 3 & 4
Need Door lock mechanism 67 cutlass
Re: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!
Re: Need Door lock mechanism 67 cutlass
The latest and Greatest Year-1 Discount Code (20%)
Re: Need a Door
Re: more brake fun
Re: more brake fun
ABS Brake Bleeding?
Windshield Wiper Chattering
Re: ABS Brake Bleeding?
Re: Windshield Wiper Chattering
Re: Need a Door
Re: Windshield Wiper Chattering
Re: ABS Brake Bleeding?
Re: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!
1970 Power door lock switches
Re: The latest and Greatest Year-1 Discount Code (20%)
Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!
Re: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!
Re: UPDATE: water pump 400269 on E*ay
Re: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!
Re: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!
RE: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!
Re: Need a Door

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 10:57:15 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: need accurate W31 damper measurements

Chris,

I have an NOS W31 unit on the shelf that I can take measurements and photos 
of.

Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ

>
>Well, pooh
>looks like I got a few pics of the W31 damper I used to have, with a US 
>Quarter for scale, but I can find no accurate [to the .01" or so] numbers 
>on it.
>
>Is there a chance that anyone here has one extracted or easy to get at, can 
>measure its main features for me? I can pay for the info.

_________________________________________________________________
Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.  
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:00:21 -0800
From: "Jeff and Sherie Stanish" <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: RE: Carpet - Stock Interiors

Look around, get samples first from everyone you can

Auto custom Carpets is the largest

but Auto Carpet Systems had a closer match to what was under the console on
my cutlass.

Good luck.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of André Meijers
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 2:40 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Carpet - Stock Interiors


Hi list,

Anybody experience with carpets from Stock Interiors? I'm about to order
one....

André

'74 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:28:24 -0800 (PST)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: need accurate W31 damper measurements

- --0-1145738054-1073590104=:59058
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

The tech pages at SupercarsUnlimited has some pics and stuff of the W-31 balancer vs a regular 350 balancer.  It's a start at least as I don't remember exactly what all it contained.
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
- --0-1145738054-1073590104=:59058
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>The tech pages at SupercarsUnlimited has some pics and stuff of the W-31 balancer vs a regular 350 balancer.&nbsp; It's a start at least as I don't remember exactly what&nbsp;all it&nbsp;contained.</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/">http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=21260/*http://photos.yahoo.com">New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing</a>
- --0-1145738054-1073590104=:59058--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:33:46 -0500
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Re: need accurate W31 damper measurements

Chris,

What does it take to remove one. I have a 1970 W-31 that's been setting in my 
barn, for several years. If it's easy to remove, I'll take it off and deliver 
it to your house. You can keep it as long as you need it. Let me know. 

Best wishes,

Mike McDonald 
Grand Rapids, MI 
McDonald_M@72ho.com
cell: 616-813-8887

- ---- Original message ----
>Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 12:36:05 -0500
>From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>  
>Subject: need accurate W31 damper measurements  
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Well, pooh
>looks like I got a few pics of the W31 damper I used to have, with a US 
>Quarter for scale, but I can find no accurate [to the .01" or so] numbers on 
>it.
>
>Is there a chance that anyone here has one extracted or easy to get at, can 
>measure its main features for me? I can pay for the info.
>
>Need at least:
>
>OD of the Large-OD front part, and the small-OD aft section.
>width, outer ring overall
>width, outer ring Large-OD part
>width, outer ring Small-OD part, not including any chamfer or rise to 
>Large-OD section.
>details of step or chamfer bewteen large OD and small OD would be nice.
>Dia of tool used to cut notches in OD
>Depth of cut for notches in OD - or, distance beteen their nearest edges 
>would do me.
>Offset between front face of outer ring and front face of inner hub. Looks 
>about 1/8" maybe,
>   with outer ring being a bit forward of the inner hub.
>Details of chamfer or groove cut into fwd inner [ID] corner of the outer 
>ring.
>
>If you can let me borrow your damper for a week or so, all the better. I can 
>send you collateral of your choice if that makes you nervous.
>
>-----------------------
>Chris Witt
>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>Lansing MI 48911
>
>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory 
>offer.  http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:38:38 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: DOT 5 Fluid vs. 3 & 4

Bob,

Except that:

> * It is not compatible with the DOT spec 3 & 4 fluids.


It's not supposed to be. That's the whole point.


> This may not be a
> problem on a new brake install where all the parts are new, or on an older
> non-ABS install where you can flush everything through with DOT 5.
> However, on newer cars you need to follow specific procedures depending on
> your ABS module to flush out the fluid ... it is very difficult to flush
> out all the old 4 or 5 fluid from the module, and you'll end up with
> incompatible fluids.  Also, on older systems that are converted, the
> silicone fluid tends to stick to any sludge that is in the lines from old
> contaminated fluid.


First, any sludge in the system *must* be removed or flushed out anyway, for
the health of the brake system. That's a red-herring argument.

The procedure is to pressure flush the entire system with alcohol, then
flush with dry air to remove any alcohol. The system is then filled with the
silicone brake fluid.


> * DOT 5 is very hard to pour without getting bubbles in it -- and it's the
> bubbles introduced when pouring, suspended in the fluid that cause spongy
> feel many people report after switching to DOT 5.


Sorry. I haven't seen that. Both types of fluid can get air bubbles at about
the same volume. They air bubbles quickly go to the top and burst at the
same rate in both fluids. I have never seen air bubbles entrain permanently
within the silicone fluid.


> Also, silicone fluid is
> more likely to dissolve the gasses in air, and that can cause a spongy
> pedal at high altitudes.


Dissolve would be the wrong word. The atmosphere doesn't dissolve into
another substance, but it could be absorbed by another substance. However,
why? One main property of silicone is its ability to repel moisture vapor.
Silicone brake fluid will not absorb moisture vapor, humidity, from the
atmosphere. As far as the rest of the gases in the atmosphere, there is no
driving mechanism to induce absorption by the silicone brake fluid. That
statement doesn't make sense. We do not see silicone products of any kind
absorbing atmospheric gases. That's why silicone is so widely used for
atmospheric sealing purposes.


> * Silicone fluid does not absorb moisture, and is lighter than water.
> Thus, if your brake system becomes contaminated with a couple percent
> water, the water will migrate to the lowest point of your system .... your
> calipers or drum pistons .... and corrode them.


Except the reason I had to switch to silicone brake fluid was that my
Hurst-Airheart aluminum calipers were palgued by corrosion problems from the
DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids I was using from 1971 to 1983. I had to tear
the system down because of a corrosion failure evry 2 to 3 years. I got
tired of that and switched to silicone, the Harley-Davidson Blue, because
Harley was having the exact same problem, and that's why they came out with
their Harley Blue silicone fluid.

And then, guess what? For exactly 20 years, I have ***not*** had one single
brake failiure, absolutely no corrosion, and have ***not*** rebled Thunder's
brake system in 20 years.

My brake peddle is hard, no fade, stops perfectly, and the manual 4-wheel
disc brakes fell like a power brake would, with the same reaction time.
Maybe Hurst-Airheart just made a better brake product.


> Also, this moisture that
> is right by your pistons/calipers will boil at a point that is well below
> the wet boiling point of DOT 3 or 4 fluid.  This vaporized moisture will
> compress, causing spongy pedal feel and possibly temporary the total loss
> of braking ability.


Again, no "spongy" brake peddle, no brake fade from continuous 110 mph panic
stops (I do occasionally check her systems to make sure they still work),
and no fluid temperature related problems, with no problems of any kind.


> DOT 3 and 4 fluid absorbs moisture, and while the
> fluid/moisture mix still corrodes system components, the fluid with
> absorbed moisture is rated at a wet boiling point (311 degrees F for DOT 3
> and 356 degrees F for DOT 4).


It corrodes brake systems big time. Ever wonder why your brake fluid turns a
soapy brown color in the master cylinder reservouir? It's from the absorbed
moisture in the brake fluid rusting the inside of the cast iron components
of your brake system and depositing that rust in the brake fluid. I had 5,
repeat 5, corrosion failures on Thunder using DOT 3 or DOT 4 moisture
contaminated brake fluid. The last 2 were after I had moved to Arizona in
'79, so it was not solely related to the high humidity in Missoura and the
low humidity in Arizona. It's directly related to a hot brake system
collecting moisture during cool-off after the vehicle shuts down. And that
is what everyone wants to ignore! Silicone brake fluid takes longer to heat
up and cool off. However, the slow cool down allows for ***less*** moisture
absorption, if any is absorbed at all. Rapid cool down creates a higher
amplitude Delta T which causes a thermal shock that accelerates moisture
absorption. Slow cool down lessens moisture absorption. DOT 3 and DOT 4 have
a higher cool down Delta T.

The last corrosion failure I had was when I exited I-10 at the Speedway ramp
on that day in '83 and started to stop for the stoplight. I suddenly noticed
the need for extra peddle pressure to stop. I looked in the rearview mirror
and saw the wet pavement behind me. I pulled over and saw the wet rear brake
caliper, where the piston O-ring had blown due to corrorsion. Fortunately, I
just happened to have a new caliper half to replace the one that failed. The
corroded piston bore was not repairable.

As I said, no more problems since then with my silicone.


> *If your system has any silicone-based rubber products (really this is
> limited to some types of piston boots), the DOT 5 silicone fluid may
attack
> and degrade them.


That might be a problem. That I don't know for sure. Hurst-Airheart calipers
use only O-rings. Back in Missoura, when I had the first DOT 3 corrosion
failure, I switched all the O-rings to flurocarbon, which by accident is
ideal for silicone fluid. However, the fullsize Chevy dual master cylinder
stayed with the same OEM materials. My master cylinder is the same new one I
installed in Thunder when she was first being built. The disc brakes were
one of the first things to go on, in 1970. That exact same master cylinder
is still being used and has never been rebuilt. The silicone brake fluid
hasn't hurt it.


> If you really want DOT 5 in your
> system, preferably use it in a new system because it is very hard to flush
> out all the old fluid from your system's components.


I'm sure it's impossible to get all of the old DOT 3 and DOT 4 out of your
system. That would probably mean there are still traces of it in Thinder's
brake system. It hasn't seemed to make any difference.


> Bleed your brakes
> regularly with DOT 5 to make sure you're not holding moisture at the
> calipers / pistons.


And I haven't touched Thunder's brakes in these past 20 years. She has only
gone about 10,000 miles in those 20 years. She sits a lot, which is what
corrosion would normally like. But again, no problems of any kind. Her
Hurst-Airhearts haven't been bled in 20 years.


> Again, this is all my understanding of the subject based on talking to
> various people and 'net research.  I'm open to new thoughts and ideas from
> anyone.


I understand what you're saying. The only thing I can say is that I'm
totally amazed at all of this negativism toward silicone brake fluid. I
simply haven't seen any of the dire consequences all of these characters in
the brake business and elsewhere are talking about.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:40:07 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

What do you shoot? I have got a couple pieces but I can't find a good pair
of prescription shooting glasses.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm


> > I can't resist this, how many pair of sun glasses do own?
>
>
> 4 pair of Ray-Ban ambermatics. Basically, one for each car. The best
> sunglasses I've ever found to work with my eyes. I have a pair of
> wrap-around UV amber and a pair of UV clear hardened shooting glasses.
>
> A very small price to pay.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:42:36 -0500 
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: need accurate W31 damper measurements

Chris,

This may have already passed through the grapevine...

http://www.69olds.com/authenticate.html

Not terribly accurate at all, I'm afraid, but something to look at while
you're waiting.
If my car wasn't 90 miles away, I'd pull and measure it for ya...geez, how
useful am I!

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:55:59 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!

Chris,

> It appears that some of the 330's [1964 issue?]  had the
> balancer's timing mark directly in line with the key slot cut into the
> balancer's bore.


There are two 330 crank hub balancers, one for a non-AC engine with the
water pump inlet on the left and a right timing marker and one for an AC
equipped engine with the water pump inlet on the right and a left timing
marker. The difference in the crank hubs is the timing notch is directly in
line with the keyway on one and 90 degrees offset for the other. I have both
styles in my parts pile. I don't know, right off hand, which is which, for I
would have to remove the bolt and washer from one of the in car 330 engines
to see where the timing mark was aligned to the crank keyway.


> Most Olds engines that we work with, of course, have an
> offset of about 11 degrees between the key slot and the timing mark. Maybe
> the Balancer seen [330-2-bbl] was one of them 1964 units with the timing
tab
> on the RH side of the engine. But, man, that would move the timing slot/
> mark more like 90 degrees, not 11 degrees, right?


Yes. A different crank hub. See the above again.


> Maybe the 1964 crank had
> the key located differently w.r.t. #1 tdc/ journal?


No.

So what do you want to know? When using the 330 crank in a different small
block, you must re-establish a new Zero timing mark based on absolute TDC
firing for that engine and mark it accordingly. That's nothing new and
should be done on any type of engine rebuild. That's why timing tapes for
harmonic balancers are so handy.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:57:00 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Need a Door

You're 18 and got some awesome rides dude!!!! What ever you do, keep up the
good work!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "aaron" <aaron@trucksforsale.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 9:52 AM
Subject: Need a Door


> Hi,  I'm new to the list.  Actually I was on it a couple years ago until I
> went off to college but now I'm back.  Anyway,  I'm in desperate need of a
> pass. door for a 70 Cutlass Supreme.  If anyone has one or knows where I
can
> find one I'd appreciate it.
>
> Aaron
> http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:11:10 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: ahhh, warm

> What do you shoot?


Handguns, rifles, and machine guns. We can do that in Arizona.


> I have got a couple pieces but I can't find a good pair
> of prescription shooting glasses.


I wear hard contacts, so I don't have a problem with getting really good
sunglasses and shooting glasses. Rayban wide lense pilot style sunglasses
and Pro Tective Optics shooting glasses can't be beat. One can also switch
one for the other with no problem for application.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:23:51 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: UPDATE: looking for water pump 400269

Chris,

NAPA had the correct casting numbers for what we were using on Mike's car.  
That's why I suggested them as a source.  They were able to cross reference 
the factory casting number to the application.  We ended up with the correct 
casting numbers for the application without trying.  Of course it's for an 
80 Cutlass 260 and A/C, but we were matching it to the brackets we used.



Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

_________________________________________________________________
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work —  and 
yourself.   http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:33:18 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DOT 5 Fluid vs. 3 & 4

All I can say is, I have ran DOT 5 in my 70 4-4-2 since we rebuilt the brake 
system in 1984 and have had no trouble since.  I have had to top it off a 
couple of times over the years and have never had a bubble problem.  I also 
use it in my motorcycle with great results.

In one study I read a long time ago, water was added to a system with DOT 5 
and it was no trace of the water was found at a later date.  Thanks to 
osmosis, DOT 3 will absorb water through the rubber lines, the DOT 5 
actually had pushed the water out through the lines.





Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

_________________________________________________________________
Expand your wine savvy — and get some great new recipes — at MSN Wine. 
http://wine.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:53:00 -0000
From: "Vegas Jay" <vegasjay@lasvegas.net>
Subject: Need Door lock mechanism 67 cutlass

I need to replace the entire door opening/locking mechanism in my 67 cutlass
supreme...
Anyone got somfin for me?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:35:58 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!

I didn't think.


> I don't know, right off hand, which is which, for I
> would have to remove the bolt and washer from one of the in car 330
engines
> to see where the timing mark was aligned to the crank keyway.


All I had to do was look at where the balance weight is. I didn't have to
take anything off. The 330 crank hub with the timing mark aligned with the
keyway is for AC equipped engines, because the balance weight is opposite.
The 330 crank hub with the timing mark about 90 degrees to the right of the
keyway is for non-AC engines, because the balance weight is about 90 degrees
to the timing mark.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:15:55 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <Berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Need Door lock mechanism 67 cutlass

  Be a little more specific with your needs.  I'm not exactly sure what you
want, but I know I have it.  I have a complete 67 Cutlass Supreme 2 door
post for parts.

Peter


> I need to replace the entire door opening/locking mechanism in my 67
cutlass
> supreme...
> Anyone got somfin for me?
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 17:20:05 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: The latest and Greatest Year-1 Discount Code (20%)

All,
	The latest and greatest discount code is:  Blue4.  Hurry!  Sale ends
Wednesday January 14, 2004.


Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:42:08 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Need a Door

  agreed  nice car
  ron----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 2:57 PM
  Subject: Re: Need a Door


  > You're 18 and got some awesome rides dude!!!! What ever you do, keep up the
  > good work!
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "aaron" <aaron@trucksforsale.com>
  > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 9:52 AM
  > Subject: Need a Door
  > 
  > 
  > > Hi,  I'm new to the list.  Actually I was on it a couple years ago until I
  > > went off to college but now I'm back.  Anyway,  I'm in desperate need of a
  > > pass. door for a 70 Cutlass Supreme.  If anyone has one or knows where I
  > can
  > > find one I'd appreciate it.
  > >
  > > Aaron
  > > http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 15:41:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Hutchison <rkt88403@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

 Hey John, The "kid" is 21 and bigger than me!! :-(
- --- JOHN ORR <jorr@paylessequipment.com> wrote:
> hey bill, get a bigger kid!!!  :-)
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme


=====
Bill Hutchison,Lansing,MI.
95 GMC Sierra 1500,95 Prowler 27N travel trailer
81 W-88 Cpe 403/TH350/8.5-3.23 LS
My Olds Club http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/olds889877to85

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 18:55:44 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: more brake fun

  used to be called kar parts but sold out to advanced auto parts. but dear dad works for national
auto parts. they  happens to carry  gm and motor craft oem parts as well as other brands
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 8:30 AM
  Subject: Re: more brake fun


  > Who has this prices ( w/o the core ...)? I'd like to file this info... just
  > in case I need them..
  > rgds
  > Matt
  >
  > > the caliper rebuilt is probably cheaper than the kit
  > > 15.00 for my 1972 when i swapped to front disc
  > > 25.00 for my 1977 but the rear disc calipers were outta sight i went with
  > new because of the problems with them being rebuilt,
  > > ron
  > > > Well, Ron is right, but if it was my car.... I would take the calipers
  > out,
  > > >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 18:41:05 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: ABS Brake Bleeding?

All,
	Just curious since we're on the thread of brake fluid, and bleeding
if there are any special requirements when bleeding an ABS vehicle?

Thanks,

Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 18:54:16 -0600
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Windshield Wiper Chattering

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
Hello there... I just got finished replacing the wiper
blades 
(refills) on my Olds, and was wondering if there was a
tweak or adjustment somewhere to keep them from chattering.
It's not a problem if they're used intermittently, but if
there's not enough water on the windshield, they will make
an awful noise and the blade will skip across the
windshield, not clearing well.

The replacement refills that I used were Tripledge
silicone, so they shouldn't need to be replaced anytime
soon...


Thanks,
Branson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:55:43 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: ABS Brake Bleeding?

  depends on make, model and year . some times  wich system alsomay  determin correct procedure
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@direcway.com>
  To: "Olds" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 7:41 PM
  Subject: ABS Brake Bleeding?


  > All,
  > Just curious since we're on the thread of brake fluid, and bleeding
  > if there are any special requirements when bleeding an ABS vehicle?
  > 
  > Thanks,
  > 
  > Steve Reed 
  > '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
  > '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
  > '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
  > Austin, TX 
  > http://www.sreed.0catch.com
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 20:06:33 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Chattering

  clean blade  with rubbing  alcohol
  works for a while
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 7:54 PM
  Subject: Windshield Wiper Chattering


  > *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
  > Hello there... I just got finished replacing the wiper
  > blades 
  > (refills) on my Olds, and was wondering if there was a
  > tweak or adjustment somewhere to keep them from chattering.
  > It's not a problem if they're used intermittently, but if
  > there's not enough water on the windshield, they will make
  > an awful noise and the blade will skip across the
  > windshield, not clearing well.
  > 
  > The replacement refills that I used were Tripledge
  > silicone, so they shouldn't need to be replaced anytime
  > soon...
  > 
  > 
  > Thanks,
  > Branson
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 21:17:20 -0500
From: "aaron" <aaron@trucksforsale.com>
Subject: Re: Need a Door

Actually I just turned 20 yesterday.  It's kind of an old site.  I just put
a full custom interior in it,  carpetted the trunk and made side panels to
protect the 1/4's and right now it is in hundreds of pieces getting
repainted.  I just got the fenders and deck lid reprimed a half hour ago.
Tomorrow I'll be wet sanding the body.  I plan on it being a mirror finish
bc/cc that I can show.  I'll get pics up as soon as I'm done but it may be a
month or two.

Now how about that
door???.......................................Anyone???.....................
...............Please??????????

Aaron
http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Need a Door


> You're 18 and got some awesome rides dude!!!! What ever you do, keep up
the
> good work!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "aaron" <aaron@trucksforsale.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 9:52 AM
> Subject: Need a Door
>
>
> > Hi,  I'm new to the list.  Actually I was on it a couple years ago until
I
> > went off to college but now I'm back.  Anyway,  I'm in desperate need of
a
> > pass. door for a 70 Cutlass Supreme.  If anyone has one or knows where I
> can
> > find one I'd appreciate it.
> >
> > Aaron
> > http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 22:04:22 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Chattering

If you have a warm atmosphere or garage, Rain-x is the best to use for all
weather conditions. It actually reduces the need of your wipers being on
intermittent. I also take a clean cloth and clean the wipers with alcohol
and then spray another cloth with some armour all and wipe the blades with
that. Rain-x only works when applied in temps above room temp. for best
results.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 7:54 PM
Subject: Windshield Wiper Chattering


> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> Hello there... I just got finished replacing the wiper
> blades
> (refills) on my Olds, and was wondering if there was a
> tweak or adjustment somewhere to keep them from chattering.
> It's not a problem if they're used intermittently, but if
> there's not enough water on the windshield, they will make
> an awful noise and the blade will skip across the
> windshield, not clearing well.
>
> The replacement refills that I used were Tripledge
> silicone, so they shouldn't need to be replaced anytime
> soon...
>
>
> Thanks,
> Branson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 22:18:58 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: ABS Brake Bleeding?

Definitely go by manufacturers specs with the type fluid, and the order of
bleeding. If there are a lot of miles on it and the bearings are dirty from
normal use, most american made cars with abs recommend to replace or
regrease the bearings at 60-70 k. Its not that expensive whereas a someones
life rides on the brakes, so to speak.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@direcway.com>
To: "Olds" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 7:41 PM
Subject: ABS Brake Bleeding?


> All,
> Just curious since we're on the thread of brake fluid, and bleeding
> if there are any special requirements when bleeding an ABS vehicle?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Reed
> '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
> '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
> '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
> Austin, TX
> http://www.sreed.0catch.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 20:51:49 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Balancers' Timing Marks  vary!

Chris,

This difference on 330 crank hubs only applies to '64. By '65, Olds had done
away with the left inlet water pump and had standardized everything on the
right inlet water pump and left side timing marker. So all '65 and later 330
crank hubs, until a true harmonic balancer was adopted for the small block,
had the timing mark aligned with the keyway.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 04:14:48 +0000
From: "Michael D" <soonerfan_8@msn.com>
Subject: 1970 Power door lock switches

I am looking for a set of Power door lock switches for a 1970 Cutlass, 
reasonably priced

Michael

_________________________________________________________________
Take advantage of our limited-time introductory offer for dial-up Internet 
access. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 23:20:47 -0500
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: The latest and Greatest Year-1 Discount Code (20%)

How much % discount is this for?
- ----- Original Message ----- 

> All,
> The latest and greatest discount code is:  Blue4.  Hurry!  Sale ends
> Wednesday January 14, 2004.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 00:36:15 -0500
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!

All,

After a four month wait, my 1/18th scale Rallye 350 from Exact Detail came
today!  Man, their models are beyond cool.  They did a very good job
reproducing the car in mini-me scale.  Engine bay and interior details are
excellent, all the OAI stuff is there.  Undercarriage is great too.  Working
suspension, doors, hood, trunk, seatbelts, visors, and the seat backs fold
down too.  I love the individual brake and gas lines...AND, the hood locks
are even in the correct (horizontal) unlocked position too!  Overall an
excellent model.

I took some quick pics for y'all to peruse. Follow this link:
http://megatron.stonehill.edu/images/
There are 7 images, filenames are: ed_rallye01.jpg - ed_rallye07.jpg

While you're there, I posed some pics from the Boston Auto Show (in the
"bostonautoshow03" folder, surprise surprise) so feel free to peep 'em.

Rock on,

 ~ Dan

- ------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 00:46:40 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!

- -------------------------------1073627200
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Dan!

Looks great!!!!!

How much  and where can we all get one?

Vinny

- -------------------------------1073627200
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type charset=3DUTF-8 content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Hey Dan!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Looks great!!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>How much&nbsp; and where can we all get one?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1073627200--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 01:02:36 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: UPDATE: water pump 400269 on E*ay

- -------------------------------1073628156
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

eBay item 2453398699 (Ends Jan-18-04 19:43:29 PST) - 68 69 OLDS 442 W30 W32 
WATERPUMP

- -------------------------------1073628156
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type charset=3DUTF-8 content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3Dutf-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f"><A href=3D"http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&a=
mp;category=3D33604&amp;item=3D2453398699">eBay item 2453398699 (Ends Jan-18=
- -04 19:43:29 PST) - 68 69 OLDS 442 W30 W32 WATERPUMP</A></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1073628156--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 08:02:03 -0500
From: HotRodHarrys@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!

Thanks for the info....I will definitely be getting one!

Harry
www.HotRodHarrys.com
Another 2003 Cobra Mustang (Purchased 12-27-2003)
No Oldsmobiles as of now...sad :(

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 08:18:51 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!

Hey List,
        The detail is OUTSTANDING !!!
....  Is there a problem with the exhaust ??????
Is the the passenger side manifold incorrect ???


    
The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 08:37:51 -0500 
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: RE: Exact Detail Rallye 350 is here!

Vinny et al,

>How much  and where can we all get one?

Exact Detail is the creator/manufacturer.  You can find them here:
http://www.exactdetail.com/

Mine was purchased through Diecast Muscle.com: http://www.diecastmuscle.com/

I believe it was about 90 beans.  Oftentimes, you can find them on eVil for
considerably less

The General wrote:
>Is there a problem with the exhaust ??????
>Is the passenger side manifold incorrect ???

Are you commenting on the lack of blocked off exhaust crossover?  All their
other models are big block cars (442s, Pace Cars, etc.) thus I think they
just reused the "true dual" exhaust mans for this small block version.

  ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 09:59:49 -0500
From: "aaron" <aaron@trucksforsale.com>
Subject: Re: Need a Door

Can anyone at least tell me if there is a difference in doors between the
two tail styles.  Long 1/4 (supreme and conv.)  vs. the fast back

Aaron
 http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/


> >
> >
> > > Hi,  I'm new to the list.  Actually I was on it a couple years ago
until
> I
> > > went off to college but now I'm back.  Anyway,  I'm in desperate need
of
> a
> > > pass. door for a 70 Cutlass Supreme.  If anyone has one or knows where
I
> > can
> > > find one I'd appreciate it.
> > >
> > > Aaron
> > > http://www.aaron.trucksforsale.com/cutlass/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4736
*********************************
