
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, April 25 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4868



RE: drum brake hub
RE: drum brake hub
Hand valve lapping compound
1958 15.904@85.51mph 4300pds
Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Re: Hand valve lapping compound
RE: drum brake hub
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
Re: Hand valve lapping compound
Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Loose wheel studs
man seeks PS PULLEY for 66-67 442 400 No-AC setup
Man seeks 66-67 PS PULLEY #3791943
snippage requested
Power Steering Pulley Removal 101 by *the* Rocket Scientist
Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool
Re: Hand valve lapping compound
Re: Hand valve lapping compound
Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Re: Hand valve lapping compound
Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Re: Man seeks 66-67 PS PULLEY #3791943 - close but no cigar ...
Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 19:08:53 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: RE: drum brake hub

I think this is the perfect time and excuse to convert to disk brakes. The 
drums on these are just horrid. I used to have a 69 cutlass with drums. It 
was an adventure. Brake fade and automatic lane changes included. I think 
you should be able to find a set off a donor for under $300.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 21:18:28 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey77@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: drum brake hub

The thought has crossed my mind, and in fact I've already begun collecting
parts for a conversion to big discs.  But the mods that I'd like to make are
going to cost much more than I have available at the moment, and I just
can't stand not driving the car for a year while I pinch pennies to put it
together.  So I'm really hoping to come up with a hub to get me by for a
while.

I have certainly considered a stock disc conversion, but really wanted to
wait until I could set it up with tall spindles for some killer
handling/brakes to go with the 455!

John

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 9:09 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: drum brake hub


I think this is the perfect time and excuse to convert to disk brakes. The
drums on these are just horrid. I used to have a 69 cutlass with drums. It
was an adventure. Brake fade and automatic lane changes included. I think
you should be able to find a set off a donor for under $300.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 00:32:29 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Hand valve lapping compound

Took the heads off the 307 to do gaskets, and I thought I would do a quick
hand lapping of the valves (since I think it got a valve job recently, but I
want to make sure it's a good seal...) Problem is that I can't find any
"course/fine" grinding compound, only the Permatex valve grinding compound
in a tube which we assume is medium. Does it matter?
And before y'all yell at me to get a real valve job, it ain't happening,
because that would double the money into this engine!! lol.
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 01:58:51 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: 1958 15.904@85.51mph 4300pds

Hello
Went 3 rounds in the 58 today 15.904@85.51 :)
Sure am turning some heads LOL
Gonna stage deep tomorrow and take the $ home.
She just keeps getting faster,,,wait till the MSD is in there!
Wow is she consistent!
Randy(smilin from ear to ear)H.
Maple Ridge B.C.
Can.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 02:06:28 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

Hello
Buddy asked me if i wanted one of these for the other car.
Seems he gets a deal if he buys 5.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com
Looks very interesting.
I hear ya gotta pull it out to race(As per rules).
But to tune her in i hear its great!
Good Luck!
Randy H.


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 23:55:37 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

Randy:

Buy it! :D

I have this unit. I highly recommend it. It is the best thing out there, 
biggest bang for the buck. Do not settle on a narrow band sensor, since it 
won't do anything in the range you want to be at. Car craft gave it two 
thumbs up too.

I had written to the list about this meter in the past, you probably missed 
the post. Here is what I wrote a while back when someone inquired about O2 
sensors.

Cheers, George

==============
I think a/f ratio measurements are crucial to any good tuning. You can save 
yourself a lot of money by doing your own tuning. You can simulate any dyno 
session by mapping your load / rpm etc. This means though that you want a 
sensor with a decent brain attached to it, so you can save and monitor 
things for all driving conditions! A set of LEDs or a voltmeter won't cut 
it. The other thing that is very important:

The ONLY way to go is with a wide band 02 sensor. If you have a narrow band 
sensor, all you can look for is lambda=1 which is a/f of 14.7 in a gasoline 
engine. While that is the optimum for fuel economy, it isn't for power! You 
want to go richer for power. The number depends on your setup.

The narrow band sensor is perfect for the job it is doing in a computer 
equipped modern car, but it will not give you any information how far you 
are off lambda=1 if you are tuning for power. The output from the narrow 
band sensor basically is 0% all the way to 14.6 and then jumps to 100% at 
14.8. That way you dial in for 14.7 looking for a 50% signal.

So, you'll need a wideband sensor that will actually measure the 02 
content. This means the output voltage is somewhat linear to the A/F ratio 
and there isn't a sweetspot at which things snap. And you need a brain 
attached to it!

After reading in car craft about it 3 months ago, and they were just loving 
it, I have recently bought the innovate a/f ratio meter and it is awesome. 
It records for up to 45 minutes, can monitor rpm, tempertatures and other 
input. It can be bought on their webpage. 
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ If you are into tuning FI / EFI cars, 
you can also do great stuff, like feeding the stock O2 sensor input a fake 
signal, getting the stock computer to enrichen the mixture. :) You can 
program it rather openly too through the firmware utility. It is worth 
every penny that it costs.

I have since found the A/F meter cheaper here. This seller is a reliable 
source that I have used many times.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_fuelCI_pg14.htm#item50

Have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. I have not used it on 
my carbureted heaps. Mainly because I am very busy with the non olds world 
of things. This will work excellent for a carb application and you can 
either stick the thing up the tailpipe (with a special clamp) or you can 
install a bung into your exhaust path. You can even constantly install the 
meter and feed its signal to an analog dash gauge.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 23:57:16 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Hand valve lapping compound

Chris:

I had the same exact problem when looking for compound. Everyone on the 
list sayd 'coarse and then fine'. I settled for the permatex stuff. It 
worked great and all the engines I did with it had no hickups.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 00:01:22 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: RE: drum brake hub

John:

I hear you. Remember, no matter what car craft magazine tells you, these 
cars are NOT the car of choice if you want to build a car for autocross or 
grand prix style racing. And for all driving I do, and the cutlass is my 
daily driver in the summer, stock front disks are all you need. I'd go for 
that now, keep dreamin' for the rest.

It is a matter of safety. If you run out of luck with the drums, you may 
not even have a car to put your big brakes onto. :)

George
71 c/s ragtop
71 442
both with factory pwr. disks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 00:03:55 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

>what about suspension? can the front end handle the 455??? Is there not much
>weight difference between the two?

The only difference from the factory were springs. I think you will be just 
fine with small block springs and if you are unhappy, swapping springs is a 
matter of $150, a rented spring compressor and a Saturday afternoon!

Still, I think a classic hone and re-ring, as much as I am not a fan of it 
usually, would be all you need for your 350.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 08:39:54 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Hand valve lapping compound

> want to make sure it's a good seal...) Problem is that I can't find any
> "course/fine" grinding compound, only the Permatex valve grinding compound
> in a tube which we assume is medium. Does it matter?

Prolly not. But I found coarse/fine commpound at one of the local auto parts
stores.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 08:41:03 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

> Buy it! :D
>
> I have this unit. I highly recommend it. It is the best thing out there,
> biggest bang for the buck. Do not settle on a narrow band sensor, since it
> won't do anything in the range you want to be at. Car craft gave it two
> thumbs up too.

How much is a wideband sensor? $350 is way expensive for what's basically a
voltmeter.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 11:06:07 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Loose wheel studs

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 21:12:45 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey77@earthlink.net>

I noticed over that past couple of months that my passenger-side front
wheel is constantly loosening.  After further investigation, I found that
three of the wheel studs are actually loose in the hub, and that the area
around them is somewhat worn.

  So I am in need of a drum brake hub for a '69 Cutlass.  I haven't been
able to find any for sale new, and was wondering if anyone on the list has
one they wouldn't mind parting with.
====================
I have 1 or 2 [dozen]
Contact me per below.
Separate brake drum, or drum held securely to hub with peened wheel studs? 
Often, amateur tries to replace brake drum w/o the proper tools and 
techniques, presses out the studs, ruins the holes, ruins the hub, etc.  The 
trick is to find a good used one with serviceable brake drum, or PROPERLY 
removed drum that can be replaced with good/new one.  I -think- maybe some 
of the earlier say 64-67 cars had separate drum/ hubs from the factory.


  Has anyone else ever had this happen?
Thanks,
John C. Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S'
==================
Ah, no, dude, you are the Only One that has ever happened to.
:-)

You are correct to avoid hokey "fixes" such as alternate studs. Being as the 
LH side naturally works loose, and you are loosening the RH side... and the 
entire car and its passengers depend on that function... best fix it 
PROPERLY.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 11:16:49 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: man seeks PS PULLEY for 66-67 442 400 No-AC setup

>From: rogersjp@ix.netcom.com
>Subject: Question from eBay Member: 66 Cutlass 1967 442 Olds TOE PLATE 
>firewall steer colm
>Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 15:44:33 -0700
>
>Need power steering pulley for 1966 400 motor. No A/C.
>Any help?
>66ROKIT
==================
Reply by forwarding DIRECTLY to the above eddress if you can help.

Thx!

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 11:46:09 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Man seeks 66-67 PS PULLEY #3791943

There's the exact number for youse to lok for.
Chris

>From: "Rogers, Patrick" <patrick.rogers@dnse.com>
>To: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: RE: seeks 66-442 PS PULLEY, ID= ???
>Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 08:41:59 -0700
>
>Chris,
>Assembly manual shows Part # 3791943.
>Regards,
>Patrick
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Christopher Witt [mailto:rocketscience442@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 8:14 PM
>To: rogersjp@ix.netcom.com
>Subject: seeks 66-442 PS PULLEY, ID= ???
>
>Need power steering pulley for 1966 400 motor. No A/C.
>Any help?
>66ROKIT
>================
>Probably
>do you have any pulley ID info, 2-letter code or 6-number PN or maybe
>diameter and overall width?

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 11:54:16 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: snippage requested

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 09:41:45 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

- --SNIP 3 lines of reply followed by 300 lines of what was replied to, the 
root of that, the root of THAT, the root of the root of the root of that, 
all the way back to Adam's input as he was driven from the Garden in God's 
Plymouth Fury--
===============================
For God's sake, folks, PLEASE have the courtesy to TRIM THE FAT when 
replying. I cannot presume that your email system works just like mine, but 
there has GOT to be a way to take with you JUST the snippet of text that 
provides some background on the subject, to make your reply sensible.
.
Thanks, those of us on digest would SO appreciate it.
.
Nowadays, with fast connection, it's not so bad, but a few years ago, I had 
to actually leave the list because it became literally 20 lines of new 
material with 2000 lines of unsnipped background, and at dialup speeds, it 
was like, press spacebar to see next screen, go get cup of coffee, come 
back, see if the next screen contains anything other than history text that 
you just saw 4 or 5 times already, nope, press space bar, go do something 
else... you get it.

Ps this is NOT directed JUST to Allen, but to all who practice this habit.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 12:11:58 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal 101 by *the* Rocket Scientist

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 11:42:20 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal

Hi Guys,
    How do you remove the pulley from a power steering pump like you'd
find on a '64 or '65 Cutlass? I tried a three jaw puller but it just
bends the pulley. What's the secret?
Thanks,
Gene
- ------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 11:58:30 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>

        This worked for me. Take the puller up
untill it is snug, then  1/8 of a turn farther.  Smack the
end up the puller with a hammer. The inward force coupled
with the outward pry will couse it to pop. Liberal amounts
of WD-40 and the like will also help. I have a few pulleys around if you
need one.
The General       patton442@verizon.net
====================================
This stuff should be added to the FAQ, to help others avoid bending pulleys 
to destruction.
.
We are talking the generation of pulley keyed to shaft, held on with nut. 
Now we see why the next generation had a puller lip, was held to shaft with 
nut, and then came the type held entirely by friction, and the puller/ 
installer tool became an absolute necessity.
.
In my experience, first you try the pulley puller. That produces mainly a 
bent pulley, add to the scrap pile. As you see. Any contact whatsoever at 
the pulley rim will produce a bent pulley. I suppose, one might be able to 
fabricate a plate of say 1/4" steel, that contacts the entire pulley almost 
al the way around, and pull against the whole thing, and ruin the entire rim 
instead of just at 3 points.
.
Heat and impact are the keys here.
.
Heat the pulley at the hub as much as you dare. If the pump is a loss 
anyhow, seal is not a concern, heat it more. If you need to re-use the pump, 
use minimal heat. Move pulley outward as if to pull it off, using [gloved] 
HANDS or perhaps a _lightly_ forced pry bar on the backside, contacting the 
pulley as near the center or hub as possible- NOT AT THEY BELT CONTACT AREA. 
Pry at 2 places if possible. Then, impact the shaft back towards the pump. 
Good idea to protect the shaft threads with the nut [better yet, an 
alternate nut that you do not care about]. Start with a brass or plastic 
faced hammer. I suppose an air impact gun would be of great service here, 
but I have yet to try that method, it should greatly expedite the process of 
ruining the pump shaft. :-)
.
Repeat as necessary, increasing levels of heat, pry, and impact until it 
comes off or destroys the part in the attempt. Remember that in hammering/ 
impact, sometimes a larger hammer will do right away what a smaller hammer 
will NEVER EVER do no matter how much you use it. Witness separating ball 
joints.
.
I have had them anywhere from slip right off with hand pressure [yesterday, 
in fact] to "no way in hell is it coming off undamaged no matter how much 
heat and impact you apply".
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 12:19:08 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 21:49:12 EDT
From: Olznut@aol.com
Subject: '90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool

- - -------------------------------1082857751
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Also, does anyone have the hubcap removal tool that I can buy?? It
doesen't have one.
==================
That's what Taiwan sockets are for.
Pick one that sorta fits, and hammer it into the roundish recess. Turn to 
remove.
Old Hillbilly's Trick.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 12:33:27 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Hand valve lapping compound

I've done a few valves, and I still see the sparkle of the grit on the valve
after cleaning with cloth. How did you clean the valves off when you were
done? Also, it seems on the exhaust valves the seat is still pitted after a
few runs of grinding. Should I keep trying to clean up the seat, leave it as
is, or break down and buy new exhaust valves?
Chris
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2004 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: Hand valve lapping compound


> Chris:
>
> I had the same exact problem when looking for compound. Everyone on the
> list sayd 'coarse and then fine'. I settled for the permatex stuff. It
> worked great and all the engines I did with it had no hickups.
>
> George
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:05:13 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Hand valve lapping compound

Also, I am as yet unclear of the procedure. It only takes a few seconds for
the "grinding" sound to go away, but if I pick the valve of the seat, even
slightly, and do it again it "starts over." Are you supposed to pick it up
and rotate until there is no grinding noise at all, or just a few times, or
never?
Chris
- ----- Original Message -----
> I had the same exact problem when looking for compound. Everyone on the
> list sayd 'coarse and then fine'. I settled for the permatex stuff. It
> worked great and all the engines I did with it had no hickups.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 17:01:37 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

At 08:41 AM 4/25/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> Buy it! :D
>>
>> I have this unit. I highly recommend it. It is the best thing out there,
>> biggest bang for the buck. Do not settle on a narrow band sensor, since it
>> won't do anything in the range you want to be at. Car craft gave it two
>> thumbs up too.
>
>How much is a wideband sensor? $350 is way expensive for what's basically a
>voltmeter.

It's more than "basically a voltmeter". "The standard LM-1 includes a Bosch
wide-band oxygen sensor and cable, cigarette-lighter adapter, serial cable
for PC connection, 9V battery, exhaust bung and plug, CD and manual." It'll
store 44 minutes of data that can be played back and stored on yer computer.

That being said, it IS pretty expensive for just an A/F meter; will be a
LOOONG time before I could consider one, even as badly as I need one. Bruce
Roe has a design that he designed/built a cupla years ago that does mostly
the same stuff and still cost over $150 for parts (at that time).

And the Innovate still does diddly-squat to tell you how "clean" your
emissions are; for that purpose, I don't see how it's any better than the
CCC system itself.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 17:27:03 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Hand valve lapping compound

At 01:05 PM 4/25/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Also, I am as yet unclear of the procedure. It only takes a few seconds for
>the "grinding" sound to go away, but if I pick the valve of the seat, even
>slightly, and do it again it "starts over." Are you supposed to pick it up
>and rotate until there is no grinding noise at all, or just a few times, or
>never?

We had the vacuum cup valve rotator that sucked onto the valve face. You
held the wooden handle of the rotator between open palms, quickly rotated
it back and forth, back and forth, and every cupla times, lifted it up
quickly then slammed it back down and kept going back and forth, back and
forth. After half a minute of more, maybe wipe out the seat and valve face
with rag then put some more compound in there. To check for good sealing
between the valve and seat, use machinist's blueing. Don't hafta but it's
easier. Can also use a wide felt tip marker but that ink tends to flake off
easily in chunks, making it harder to tell without renewing the inking
often. An old hand at this can do it so quickly the whole head only takes
5-10 minutes, depending on overall valve condition.

DO NOT let the lapping compound get on the valve stems or it'll grind out
the valve stems and guides  ;o((((((( The guy I watched use a plastic
squirt bottle with kerosene... he'd lift out the valve, wipe off the seat
with rag, squirt kerosene on the valve seat, combustion chamber and through
the valve guides, examine the blueing, then dip the valve in a coffee can
of kerosene to clean it off then wipe it dry before more compound on the
seat only. He didn't use blueing until he felt it was pretty close to done.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:25:49 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

http://www.diy-wb.com/
Commercial WB, $1k+ 
DIY-WB Controller w/ Sensor, about $225 
Measuring your AFR accurately, PRICELESS 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:43:16 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Man seeks 66-67 PS PULLEY #3791943 - close but no cigar ...

Hey List,

        That is the L6 part number - he needs a 382418 ...
Unless he has the heavy duty cooling option, then he has
to use the A/C pulley ....384678 ........ ...............  There are
actually 5 PS  pulleys hat were used in 66 and 67 .........


The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 21:38:37 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

Ditto on my '70 with O-type. Fortunately I was trying to find the 
source of the noise (that turned out be the rear axle bearing) and 
making slow circles in the parking lot when the axle exited.
This was also when I discovered the difference in O-type axle bearings 
noted by Kenneth. The first set, supposedly the listing for my car, had 
too big an ID. The set that fit was actually listed for an F-85 rather 
than a Cutlass. Can't remember which auto parts store that was, but 
they obviously had some inaccuracies...

krw
On Apr 22, 2004, at 1:44 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 08:36:22 -0400
> From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
>
>   on a note i had a 1968 442 that lost the left axle due to failed 
> brg, was not fun.even though  it
> was the olds rear with bolt in axles they still can leave the car.
>   ron
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4868
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