
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 19 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4895



Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???
w-31 answers: t-chain and rods
Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?
Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: homeless transmission
Upper control arm length??? 1972 Cutlass Supreme.
Re: Value of Mondello BB heads? -- not much
RE: 1968-72 A-Body door hinges
Re: high torque starter install
Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Quadrajet fixed
Re: Quadrajet fixed
(OT) Power Supply
RE: 1968-72 A-Body door hinges
Reman / aftermarket rear end
Re: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?
Re: high torque starter install
Electrical problems with '01 Aurora
Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line
Re: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?
Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line
Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984
Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984
Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line
w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2
Re: One of those days...(Way too long)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:35:23 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???

At 01:29 PM 5/18/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> I agree 100%, especially if you live where it rains often. Nothing quite
>> like hitting a puddle of water and immediately losing your brakes.
>
>
>One reason drum brakes fade out in rain puddles is that way too many people
>forget to make sure the rubber plugs are in place on the back of the brake
>backing plates on all 4 wheels. Those rubber plugs will mostly prevent water
>from entering the brake drum assembly and causing fade

In the olden days, we ole farts quickly learned to lightly put the brakes
on when we saw that we were gonna go through a puddle of any depth. That
keeps the water from getting between the shoes and drums.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 14:58:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: w-31 answers: t-chain and rods

- --0-789958816-1084917504=:29062
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

ok, to answer the questions.
 
1. The Milodon timing chain, while thats what the box said that it came in, thats not what was in the box.  The chain had play in it.
 
2. The rods, the pins were installed using a rod heater, which is something engine shops use with NO problems.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

		
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- --0-789958816-1084917504=:29062
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<DIV>ok, to answer the questions.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1. The Milodon timing chain, while thats what the box said that it came in, thats not what was in the box.&nbsp; The chain had play in it.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>2. The rods, the pins were installed using a rod heater, which is something&nbsp;engine shops use with NO problems.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br><a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=24311/*http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/">SBC Yahoo!</a> - Internet access at a great low price.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:04:49 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

Believe me, after the day I had this week (both of them) I can understand 
how ya get those 2 confused.

M

At 05:37 PM 5/18/2004 -0400, Tremondous442 wrote:
>not valve guides, I meant to say rings

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 20:24:53 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?

Well,

        The lifters in your car are not really adjustable - unless you are
going
to use shims unders then pivots.....    do this cold ..



The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:53:37 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

>  If the modulator's diaphragm has
> ruptured it can allow transmission fluid to be sucked back into the intake
> through the vacuum lines causing smoke under conditions like you describe.

We used to use this for practical joke purposes. With a tee in a vacuum line and a hose into a bottle of tranny fluid or
motor oil, you could easily scare the hell out of a buddy.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:11:40 -0400
From: "sherman f higgins" <goodfoot@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: homeless transmission

Pat,

I live in Kennesaw GA about 40 minutes north of Atlanta.


> [Original Message]
> From: swanny <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: 5/18/2004 3:38:35 PM
> Subject: Re: homeless transmission
>
> Sherman. Where are you?
> Pat Swanton.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sherman f higgins" <goodfoot@ix.netcom.com>
> To: "oldsmobile" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 11:31 AM
> Subject: homeless transmission
>
>
> > I plan on installing the original two speed transmission in my 65 442,
and
> will have and will be removing the th350 would anybody be interested in
> getting the th350?
> >
> >
> > sherman f higgins
> > goodfoot@ix.netcom.com
> > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 21:19:06 -0500
From: "Kevin Wood" <kevwood@charter.net>
Subject: Upper control arm length??? 1972 Cutlass Supreme.

Hello Olds list members.

I've been just standing by lately not offering much info, but I wonder
if I can request some information.
I am just setting up a new rearend in my 72 Cutlass Supreme, and have
adjustable upper rear control arms.  I had been
Trying to track down a vibration for a couple of years. Discovered that
the problem was that both drive shafts I had been using had bad trans
slip yokes.
 
Long story short, I want to put the car back to factory angles before I
try any experiments.

Can anybody out there offer me some exact measurements of the factory
hole spacing between the mounting points on a stock upper control arm???
I would use either an exact hole center to hole center measurement, or
any other reference measurement you can provide.  I'm on super-delay
digest mode, so would you please be so kind as to reply to me personally
if you have this info???  Thanks!

Kevin D. Wood
Rubicon, WI
1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme
2000 Olds Silhouette
2004 New baby three weeks ago (future olds fan)

kevwood@charter.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 19:12:07 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Value of Mondello BB heads? -- not much

> > I was told about these heads and now after seeing these pics,

I dunno Chris. Do you believe everything people tell you? Especially around 
machine shops, I take everything with a grain of salt. In my experience, 
machine shops are a place where you can find some serious crooks. If claims 
like that are made by a place that has an interest to make a competitor 
look bad, I'd be very careful in believing the information.

With all the criticism the place receives, I do not believe that something 
like this would leave Mondellos shop. Likely, when the engine was sold, 
someone claimed that the heads were done by mondello and this information 
was taken for granted wishful thinking) by the following owners.

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:39:40 -0400
From: oldslist@nuthinfancy.com
Subject: RE: 1968-72 A-Body door hinges

John,

Are these NOS or aftermarket? 

Regards,
 
Bob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 18:21:03 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: high torque starter install

> > The friction and power needed to turn an engine over slow is
> > relatively higher (if you normalize by the rpm) than if you turn it
>faster.
>
>
>No, it is not. I also didn't say that. The faster an engine spins, the more
>power it takes to spin the engine. That's a basic law of physics.

You don't listen. I clearly said if you NORMALIZE by rpm. That means you 
divide the power by the rpm. Example: You need 5 hp to turn it over at 500 
rpm and you may need 7hp to turn it over at 1000rpm. If you normalize it, 
that is 1hp/rpm for the low speed and .7hp/rmp for the higher speed!

> > Especially the valve train will move over much easier, if you go crank it
> > over at higher rpm.
>No.

Of course. Again, you are looking at the forces normalized. That is the 
reason why cams are broken in at high rpm even on engines that have spray 
bars lubricating the cam lobes and followers where you do not worry about 
oil splashing etc. like you'd do on a pushrod V8.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 03:09:32 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

At 05:53 PM 5/18/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>>  If the modulator's diaphragm has
>> ruptured it can allow transmission fluid to be sucked back into the intake
>> through the vacuum lines causing smoke under conditions like you describe.
>
>We used to use this for practical joke purposes. With a tee in a vacuum
line and a hose into a bottle of tranny fluid or
>motor oil, you could easily scare the hell out of a buddy.
>
>Kevin

Hmmm... I need to get some hood locks...  ;o|

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 20:15:20 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Quadrajet fixed

Last week I asked about the Quadrajet on our '67 C/S convert. (I mistakenly 
typed '66).  As was mentioned by listers, the float was the only logical 
item to replace.  I had pulled it last week and it did float in a can of 
gas, but I guess it didn't float well enough.  I replaced it tonight and it 
runs fine now!!  Took it for a ride and it runs well!  Thanks for the 
help/ideas.

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 23:20:46 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Quadrajet fixed

- -------------------------------1084936846
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Joe

I cannot wait to see it finished.   It looked real sweet in person!!!

How is the 442 coming along????

Be well

Vinny
68  H/O  #511  of 515 built

- -------------------------------1084936846
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Hey Joe</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I cannot wait to see it finished.&nbsp;&nbsp; It looked real sweet in p=
erson!!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>How is the 442 coming along????</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Be well</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV>
<DIV>68&nbsp; H/O&nbsp; #511&nbsp; of 515 built</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1084936846--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 20:50:59 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: (OT) Power Supply

If any one on the list has experience in electronics engineering and can assist me in regards to capacitor selection on
an audio amplifier power supply, could you please hit me off line at kcolund@shaw.ca

Thanks and my apologies to the rest of you for the off topic post.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 00:01:46 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: 1968-72 A-Body door hinges

Aftermarket. NOS you'd be paying a lot more.


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
oldslist@nuthinfancy.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 10:40 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: 1968-72 A-Body door hinges

John,

Are these NOS or aftermarket?

Regards,

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 21:25:08 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Reman / aftermarket rear end

List:

I'd like to get posi and a numerically higher ratio rear. I believe I have 
2.78 now in the supreme. I turn 3k rpm at 90 mph with 70 aspect BFG 14 
radials! I'd like to bump it up a notch to get better around the city. I 
think a 3.4xx ratio would be ideal.

I have a non olds rear end, something funky, I am positive it got changed 
along the cars life. So replacing the whole unit seems like a good idea. 
Instead of paying through the nose on a questionable used rear, I think a 
new one would be great!

Where would I go for a fresh complete "turn key" rear? I wouldn't mind to 
get something more common than what's original to the car. Maybe a chevy 
rear like it came in the chevy a bodies? A 12 bolt? What is best in the GM 
rear world?

Fill me in what to get and where!

Cheers, George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 00:04:41 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?

Stock heads do not have adjustable rocker arms. Did you install a set of
adjustable rocker arms and pushrod guide plates? If so, the rockers arms are
adjusted cold, at TDC firing for each cylinder, at 1/2 turn tight after zero
lash.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Britt" <jbritt67@mindspring.com>
To: "Oldsmobile List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 3:27 PM
Subject: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?


> OK, this should be a pretty easy question for the group. When
> reassembling heads, in this case a '67 330 4-barrel HC, can the valves
> only be adjusted when the engine is running and up to normal temp?. How
> much can be done to adjust the valve train when the engine is still out
> of the car?.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay Britt
> OCA#29460
> 67 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe
> 99 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
> http://jbritt67.home.mindspring.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 00:10:46 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: high torque starter install

George,

I was giving a hypothetical example using numbers I just pulled out of the
air to illustrate the point. You can't use those numbers like that.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: high torque starter install


>
> > > The friction and power needed to turn an engine over slow is
> > > relatively higher (if you normalize by the rpm) than if you turn it
> >faster.
> >
> >
> >No, it is not. I also didn't say that. The faster an engine spins, the
more
> >power it takes to spin the engine. That's a basic law of physics.
>
> You don't listen. I clearly said if you NORMALIZE by rpm. That means you
> divide the power by the rpm. Example: You need 5 hp to turn it over at 500
> rpm and you may need 7hp to turn it over at 1000rpm. If you normalize it,
> that is 1hp/rpm for the low speed and .7hp/rmp for the higher speed!
>
> > > Especially the valve train will move over much easier, if you go crank
it
> > > over at higher rpm.
> >No.
>
> Of course. Again, you are looking at the forces normalized. That is the
> reason why cams are broken in at high rpm even on engines that have spray
> bars lubricating the cam lobes and followers where you do not worry about
> oil splashing etc. like you'd do on a pushrod V8.
>
> George
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 10:16:12 -0400
From: Joehume@aol.com
Subject: Electrical problems with '01 Aurora

Any listers that own an '01 Aurora that have experienced electrical problems please hit me off list.
Thanks-JoeH
joehume@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 07:23:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geo <geogeethree@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

> Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:41:58 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

>Bad valve guides/seals normally will allow some oil
>seepage into the
>chambers while the hot engine is sitting, resulting
>in a puff or two of
>blue smoke upon startup.

>SteveH

Valve guides with excessive clearance for the valve
stems will also allow for oil to be sucked into the
combustion chamber when decelerating.  I had a '70
Cutlass with over 200,000 miles on it and good
compression (155-165), and it would blow smoke only
when decelerating.  Of course, it was easiest to see
the smoke when driving down a hill.

Geo
'72 442
Digest Mode


	
		
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 15:54:20 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

>>I'll second this. What you describe are the classic symptoms of
>>a leaky modulator.
>
>It's a manual tranny

*splorf*

Ah, well, glad we cleared _that_ up. Never mind!  :-)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 09:25:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line

- --0-1485212367-1084983919=:78327
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

All,
I haven't had much luck trying to get a correct fuel pump to carb line for my 69 W-31.  It's just a regular old 350 4bbl line.  Right Stuff Detailing out of Ohio has sent two different lines, each of which has problems.  The second time I called back, the person I spoke with was very helpful.  He spent several hours pulling line after line to try and match up based on a description and picture of a correct line with nothing to reference it to on how the bends are.  The second line he sent was for 68-69 400 4bbl.  I'm not sure this line would even be correct for that engine.  It seems it would be correct for the 68 400 2bbl.  But anyway, to the point.  If someone has an _original_ 68-71 350 4bbl line from the fuel pump to the carb, I would like to borrow it to send it off to Right Stuff Detailing so they can reproduce a correct line for me (free of charge I might add) and when they are done, I will gladly return your original line.  I'll even provide some sort of compensation if you'd
 like (money, parts, beer, naked pictures of .... oh wait :-)   And before someone says, try another place, I guess I'm more interested in trying to correct an obvious incorrect item a reproduction parts place is selling on the market, which would obviously benefit everyone.  Or more correctly everyone with a 68-71 350 4bbl.  For the record, Supercars does have the correct line (with a picture on their website I might add) for $18 IIRC, but for the reason mentioned above and the fact I'd rather not have to deal with shipping it from the left coast, I've decided to take this route.  I haven't even tried to see what Classic Tube has, but I have ordered lines from both Classic Tube and Right Stuff in the past and all experiences have been great.  I have not ordered anything from Inline Tube, so I can't comment on them.
 
Many many thanks in advance for any help you can provide.  And please contact me privately if you can help me out.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 

		
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SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
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<DIV>All,</DIV>
<DIV>I haven't had much luck trying to get a correct fuel pump to carb line for my 69 W-31.&nbsp; It's just a regular old 350 4bbl line.&nbsp; Right Stuff Detailing out of Ohio has sent two different lines, each of which has problems.&nbsp; The second time I called back, the person I spoke with was very helpful.&nbsp; He spent several hours pulling line after line to try and match up based on a description and picture of a correct&nbsp;line with nothing to reference it to on how the bends are.&nbsp; The second line he sent was for 68-69 400 4bbl.&nbsp; I'm not sure this line would even be correct for that engine.&nbsp; It seems it would be correct for the 68 400 2bbl.&nbsp; But anyway, to the point.&nbsp; If someone has an _original_ 68-71 350 4bbl line from the fuel pump to the carb, I would like to borrow it to send it off to Right Stuff Detailing so they can reproduce a correct line for me (free of charge I might add) and when they are done, I will gladly return your original
 line.&nbsp; I'll even provide some sort of compensation if you'd like (money, parts, beer, naked pictures of .... oh wait :-)&nbsp;&nbsp; And before someone says, try another place, I guess I'm more interested in trying to correct an obvious incorrect item a reproduction parts place is selling on the market, which would obviously benefit everyone.&nbsp; Or more correctly&nbsp;everyone with a 68-71 350 4bbl.&nbsp; For the record, Supercars does have the correct line (with a picture on their website I might add) for $18 IIRC, but for the reason mentioned above and the fact I'd rather not have to deal with&nbsp;shipping it&nbsp;from the left coast, I've decided to take this route.&nbsp; I haven't even tried to see what Classic Tube has, but I have ordered lines from both Classic Tube and Right Stuff&nbsp;in the&nbsp;past&nbsp;and all experiences have been great.&nbsp; I have not ordered anything from Inline Tube, so I can't comment on them.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Many many thanks in advance for any&nbsp;help&nbsp;you can provide.&nbsp; And please contact me privately if you can help me out.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br><a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=24311/*http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/">SBC Yahoo!</a> - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-1485212367-1084983919=:78327--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 14:04:02 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Jay Britt <jbritt67@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Adjusting Hydraulic Valves - Cold or Hot?

That's what I thought, but the CSM had me confused. Thanks guys!.

- -----Original Message-----
Stock heads do not have adjustable rocker arms.


- -----Original Message-----
 The lifters in your car are not really adjustable - unless you are
going to use shims unders then pivots.....    do this cold ..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 12:16:34 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line

chris smetana wrote:
> ... Supercars does have the correct line (with a picture on 
> their website I might add) for $18 IIRC, but for the reason mentioned 
> above and the fact I'd rather not have to deal with shipping it from the 
> left coast, I've decided to take this route.

So, just to be clear, Greg Rollin(s), former list member and all round 
good guy,  has the part you need for $23.50 (18+5.50 shipping)?

If you _really_ want to help Right Stuff then why not buy it from Greg, 
send it to Right Stuff and then you will have two for little more than 
the price of one?

OTOH, I would support an Olds only restoration house over almost anyone 
else and just buy it from Supercars.
- --

Cliff "Loyalty is not obsolete." Simpson & Kermit
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 14:30:55 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984

Hi all, no way to have an opinion about the Qjet carbs from JET/Holley... so
another question:

Are there any differences between the Chevrolet Caprice and the Oldsmobile
DELTA88 ROYA L? 1984?
I find that the Delta is narrower and taller than the so famous Caprice..
( for being used by the cops from all the US films from the 80s ) I must
say, that the Caprice is really nice car, but to my greatest deception, the
Delta looks not alike - and should do, as it is a sister model from the
GM.... or I miss something?
Well , the point is , that having already a 307 it could, maybe, accept the
468...? :-)?
rgds to all listers
TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA,
TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA, TIA....
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 15:21:15 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984

> Are there any differences between the Chevrolet Caprice and the Oldsmobile
> DELTA88 ROYA L? 1984?
> I find that the Delta is narrower and taller than the so famous Caprice..

Dimensionally, the two cars are very close.  Less than an inch difference in
most places.  They are, of course, both B bodies.  The Olds had different
styling, typically a much fancier interior, and an Olds drivetrain if the V8
was ordered.  Yes, a 350, 403, 455 etc. is a fairly straightforward swap.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 18:22:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line

On Wed, 19 May 2004, chris smetana wrote:
> I haven't had much luck trying to get a correct fuel pump to carb line
> for my 69 W-31.  It's just a regular old 350 4bbl line.  Right Stuff
> Detailing out of Ohio has sent two different lines, each of which has
> problems.

FWIW, back in '95 I bought the correct line from Year One or Fusick's,
can't remember which exactly. Fit perfectly. To be honest, I think Right
Stuff just needs to be a little more diligent with either their supplier
or their catalog writer. It doesn't seem that hard to find given that
Supercars has it also.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

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Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 13:59:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2

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Not sure if this made it the first time, so figured I'd resend.
 
1. Regarding the Milodon timing chain.  While the box said Milodon, thats not what was in the box.  There was slack in the chain.
 
2. Regarding the rods.  A rod heater was used to install the pins, which most engine shops use with NO problems.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 

		
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<DIV>Not sure if this made it the first time, so figured I'd resend.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1. Regarding the Milodon timing chain.&nbsp; While the box said Milodon, thats not what was in the box.&nbsp; There was slack in the chain.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>2. Regarding the rods.&nbsp; A rod heater was used to install the pins, which most engine shops use with NO problems.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br><a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=24311/*http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/">SBC Yahoo!</a> - Internet access at a great low price.
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Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 19:10:47 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: One of those days...(Way too long)

youre day was still better than mine.
as i do on a weekly routine i start all my oldsmobiles, my 1972 cutlass convertable starts  after 3
pumps  with no problem.
except dam rodent chewed thew the coil wire and the inline  rubber hose for fuel filter in front of
carb. three pumps hit key and we have ignition, only problem engine is not running. hood release
breakes off. and rodent nest along with car are feeding flames. totaly  pissed i grabb  vise grips
pop hood and drowned the engine with water. flames go away. at first look  it looks like major
damage. after 20 min. cleaning and looking. i breath with reliefe. the flames were from leaves  only
light damage. new plugs& ect sateel fuel line , vac hoses. i hit the key and the car roars to life.
ordered new hood releas rod from year 1. now i just evey other part of the car. due to rust.
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ChazToone@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 10:26 PM
Subject: One of those days...(Way too long)


> Perfect Spring day in Jersey, 92 degrees and 140% humidity.  Why not do some
> work on the Olds ('71 Cutlass) ?  I have several jobs I've been wanting to do,
> all in the driveway:
>
> 1) Remove and replace the right front lower control arm.  (I managed to pick
> up one NOS arm, and have already replaced the bushings/ball joint).  Then I'll
> pull the other arm and have the rubber punched out.  I have all new MOOG
> parts.
>
> 2) Replace stabilizer links and mounts with poly.  No brainer, as long as I
> have the arm out.
>
> 3) Replace rubber front disk hoses with nice braided stainless ones.  I did
> the disks (slotted and cross-drilled) and calipers last year, but the new brake
> hoses did not fit.  The old ones  didn't look too bad, so I kept them.
>
> Started around 11 AM.  Shock and links came out nice and easy.  Tried to
> compress spring, (got new ones of those too) but something isn't right.  The
> threaded rod is too long and is hitting the shock tower.  No problem, off to Home
> Dept and bought a bunch of 3/4" nuts and used as spacers.  Spring gets smaller.
>  Now to pop the ball joint.  I have a "pickle fork" and am wailing away at
> it.  I check against the new ball joint and the spacing on the fork is too
> narrow.   No problem, off to local auto parts store and a fork that fits.  Some
> more wailing away and getting no where. (Picture a 48 year old, greasy, dirty,
> 300 lb guy dripping sweat, pounding away at is nice car, muttering to himself)
> No problem, off to Sears for a bigger hammer.  (I'm starting to enjoy these
> leisurely drives, and the A/C.)  Bigger hammer and POP goes the ball joint.
> Progress!  Now I'm just two bolts away from freedom for my arm.  Got the first
> nut off, but the bolt just spins away.  And I can see the inner shaft of the
> bushing is not turning.  Try and try as I might, no luck.  Now the clouds are
> building for this afternoon's round of thunderstorms.  Around 4PM and I admit
> defeat.  I reassemble the arm and wonder how all that wailing away has affected
> my ball joint.  I guess I'll at least replace the brake lines. Get somehting
> done...
>
> I break out my flair wrench set.  Unscrewing the brake line from the hose and
> something's not right.  OH NO!  I've turned the steel line into a corkscrew.
> Maybe I can reverse it and it will get straightened out.  Not today.  Snap
> and brake fluid dripping real good.  I don't want the master to run dry.  I
> stick a piece of washer tubing with a bolt stuck in it over the poor remains of my
> brake line.  No more drips.  No more brakes.  Lots of cursing.  Getting
> louder too.
>
> Not having had enough, I replace the stabilizer links and mounts. One link
> was really chewed up.  I'm never sure how tight these need to be.  But, finally,
> I get something done.  It's getting dark now and I can hear the thunder.  I
> spray off the brakes with cleaner.  Bolt everything back up.  Torque 'em where
> they need 'em.  Now I know if I hit the brakes I'm gonna send that piece of
> rubber line in orbit.  So I park using just the emergency brakes.
>
> Now it's after 8PM and its starting to rain.  I go inside, but something's
> not right.  I must have gotten some brake cleaner in my eye.  It's like a fog
> settled in on my right eye.  It's not easy typing with one eye closed.
>
> So, now some 8 hours later, my old control arm is still in place, I need to
> replace my brake line (might as well do both....) I can't drive the car until
> then.  Then I'll pay someone with a lift and the right tools good money to
> replace my arm.
>
> This is the price we pay to drive a classic car, but it's worth it.  (Except
> for the eye part.)
>
> Thanks for listening,
>
> Charlie Toone
> OCA Member# 22915
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> 1972 H/O (w/sunroof) - for a short while
> 1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
> ChazToone@aol.com
> http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4895
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