
oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, April 4 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4844



Re: long time owners
info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: Dealing with Generous Motors
Re: Question from eBay Ripoff Artist: Oldsmobile : 1969 H/O FAKE
Re: Dealing with Generous Motors
No road test today
Re: long time owners
Re: It's.... alive!
Re: Dealing with Generous Motors
Re: No road test today
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re:Cam Problem
Re: Dealing with Generous Motors
Re: Dealing with Generous Motors
On = Off
Re: It's baaaaaack! 
RE: It's baaaaaack! 
FW: Re: No road test today
keeps running with key OFF
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
RE: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: It's baaaaaack! 
sounds like rod knock
Quadrajet Olds 307 Computer controlled carb
Re: It's baaaaaack! 
Re: keeps running with key OFF
Re: Quadrajet Olds 307 Computer controlled carb
Re: long time owners
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: long time owners
On = Off ? Changed alternator, not fixed... 
on = off ?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 19:51:16 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: long time owners

- --part1_136.2c78cbbc.2da0b604_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My ordered 65-442 came in on my birthday (June 10) of 1965. Cost me $10 down 
to take 'er home.
                                                 Ron Forsee
                                                

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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">My ordered 65-442 came in on my bir=
thday (June 10) of 1965. Cost me $10 down to take 'er home.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
 Ron Forsee<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_136.2c78cbbc.2da0b604_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 16:59:54 -0800 (PST)
From: frank iezzi <mrfiezzi@yahoo.com>
Subject: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

Hello fellow Olds friends:

A friend from high school (which was about 30 years
ago) sent me an e-mail. Seems his boss is looking to
sell a 1970 SX conv with the 455. What are these
worth? What to look for to authenticate it as genuine?
Any help appreciated... also what are the price range
on these?

Thanks in advance... I need another Olds!

Frank Iezzi
Columbus OH
1969 Cutlass 'S'

__________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 02:03:00 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

At 05:35 PM 4/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>> .... and we aren't talking orca-type: pre-1991s only. Don't forget the
>> full-sized wagons, though; those were at least as good as the Crapice.
>Hey, don't knock the orcas! My 94 LT1 Roadmaster can smoke your wagon while
>towing a wagon behind it :P

Frankly, I couldn't care less. My 307-powered wagon will putter by BOTH yer
orcas when they die at 110K miles  :o))))))))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2004 21:12:42 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Question from eBay Ripoff Artist: Oldsmobile : 1969 H/O FAKE

Dear 600+ readers of the Oldsmobile email list:

This is the response of the ripoff artist on ebay selling the fake "NUMBERS 
MATCHING" 1969 H/O

Dear Ripoff Artist:

I dare you to call me that and speak in person.
You gutless scammer.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


>From: "Ted Nguyen" <ted@evsmotors.com>
>To: <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Question from eBay Member: Oldsmobile : 442
>Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 19:17:30 -0600
>
>Question from eBay Member: Oldsmobile : 442Got anything better to do?  I 
>guess not...
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: rocketscience442@hotmail.com
>   To: ted@evsmotors.com
>   Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 11:30 AM
>   Subject: Question from eBay Member: Oldsmobile : 442
>
>
>               Question from eBay Member: Oldsmobile : 442
>
>               Dear evsmotors,
>
>               Have you no morals, sir?! You have been notified REPEATEDLY 
>that the 1969 H/O's VIN stamp on the engine is FAKE- it's not even the 
>RIGHT NUMBER that should be there!!! Yet, here is the car, again, listed 
>without correcting that blatant LIE. I reported that to eBay, but they 
>reply only that it is up to all al buyers to beware of scurrilous cheating 
>sellers such as yourself.
>
>               To view the item, go to: 
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470655436
>
>               Thank you,
>               *the*rocketscientist

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 18:33:40 -0800 (PST)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

- --- Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net> wrote:
> At 05:35 PM 4/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >> .... and we aren't talking orca-type: pre-1991s
> only. Don't forget the
> >> full-sized wagons, though; those were at least as
> good as the Crapice.
> >Hey, don't knock the orcas! My 94 LT1 Roadmaster
> can smoke your wagon while
> >towing a wagon behind it :P
> 
> Frankly, I couldn't care less. My 307-powered wagon
> will putter by BOTH yer
> orcas when they die at 110K miles  :o))))))))))
> 
> SteveH

**********************
Steve is misinformed.
Many LT1s go 300k miles.

Back to Oldsmobile discussion....



=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com

__________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2004 21:43:17 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: No road test today

OK, diode across the relay's coil terminals did not help.
On = On, Off = On
There is no turning off the HEI except to remove wire from the relay... 
?!?!?!

Another relay behaves just the same.
Any clues for me? I thought I knew how relays worked...

So, I go out to try that new dioded relay... and it commences to SNOW

Ran engine a minute, shut off - by yanking wire off relay- drained water 
from radiator and block.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 21:48:47 -0500
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: long time owners

Gesh Ron....10 bucks wont even give ya a half a tank these days!!

Still have the car??

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 23:09:24 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: It's.... alive!

BRRRRRRRRRRRRR.......It's gettin cold......
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 7:28 PM
Subject: It's.... alive!


> Finally at long last fired up the 350 today, 2:50 pm
>
> Worked thru 1am getting the last details squared away. Fired right up-
very
> handy to mark the camshaft so that you can look in the dist hole and see
if
> it's at TDC #1 or TDC #6...  Primed carb with 110 Octane, no problems as
she
> came up to temp. No leaks, no bad sounds. Shut her down roa a while to
cool
> off and get the trans inspection cover in place.
>
> Won't shut off! What the...?
>
> Key off, engine on. Not dieseling on, but ON on.
>
> Grrrrrr....
> Original bulkhead ign wire to dist'r was removed, new wire in that slot
was
> used to run a relay which connects a fused #10 line from the battery to
the
> HEI and the choke heat. Pretty simple. Ign on, relay comes on, ign off...
> relay stays on?!?!?! Seems almost to be self-energizing. Relay is mounted
> behind the power brake booster. No major other circuits next to it. I used
> the spot in the builkhead where the black/ pink wire was, which the CSM
says
> is switch ign circuit. center of 3 wires in the row just above the bottom
> single terminal. When not attached to the relay, the new wire behaves just
> like it should. On with ign on, off when off.
>
> I guess I try to put a diode in there. Let the coil energy cycle out when
> disconnected. Wonder if just swapping the coil activation wires would do
it?
>
> Anyhow, she runs pretty well. Must remember to drain the water tonite,
> supposed to get real cold.
>
> Oh, one more bit of fun.
> Went out to restart it for a few more minutes' break-in, only to see the
red
> OIL lite is on?!
> No strange noises. But, anything can happen. No OP Sender socket,
Grrrr....
> go get it... remove op sender, install mechanical OP gage. Fire up engine,
> 45 psi no problems. Why the sender picked NOW to poop out?!?!?! Here, have
> some more STRESS, eh?
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Multiple plans
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>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 04:50:56 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

At 06:33 PM 4/3/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>**********************
>Steve is misinformed.
>Many LT1s go 300k miles.

..... after three water pumps, two optisparks, four valve cover gasket
renewals, an engine rebuild or two, and conversion to good ole green
antifreeze  :o))))))))

>Back to Oldsmobile discussion....

Oldsmobile??? Didn't they die???  ;o((((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 05:26:31 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: No road test today

At 09:43 PM 4/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>OK, diode across the relay's coil terminals did not help.
>On = On, Off = On
>There is no turning off the HEI except to remove wire from the relay... 
>?!?!?!
>
>Another relay behaves just the same.
>Any clues for me? I thought I knew how relays worked...

Some of those relays may have internal straps between terminals; perhaps
the terminal you're using does.

>So, I go out to try that new dioded relay... and it commences to SNOW

Diode won't make any difference; the HEI probly draws enough current, a
cupla amps, to "discharge" the coil as you were thinking. Something's
keeping the thing energized. Have you tried disconnecting the HEI and
measuring that output terminal of the relay to make sure it's not the HEI
that's somehow keeping it energized?

AHHA.... Try this: disconnect the alternator's two-terminal plug, see if
that stops it. If so, the alternator's probly got a leaky regulator that's
feeding current back into the relay to keep it energized. I've heard of
this before and believe the regulator was what was doing it, not a bad
diode trio. IIRC, a bad diode trio shows as dim alternator light when shut
off. You still have an alternator light in yer dash? If not, this's likely
the problem and you'd never know it without the light.

>Ran engine a minute, shut off - by yanking wire off relay- drained water 
>from radiator and block.

Keep that schnow out yer way, we've had moren enough over here in New
England this year  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 07:52:58 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

On Sat, 3 Apr 2004, frank iezzi wrote:
> A friend from high school (which was about 30 years
> ago) sent me an e-mail. Seems his boss is looking to
> sell a 1970 SX conv with the 455. What are these
> worth? What to look for to authenticate it as genuine?
> Any help appreciated... also what are the price range
> on these?

They're worthless... no value at all. I'll give him $500 for it - if it
runs. ;-)

Actually, best bet would be to go to www.collectorcartrader.com and see
what people are asking for '70 convertibles.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 07:26:33 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:Cam Problem

Is the engine rebuilt? If the shop put in new cam bearings and did did
"shave them" for alignment, this can happen.

Or, the journal is oversize.

Paul Tumolo
1970 442
OCA #31967 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 07:43:41 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

> >Steve is misinformed.
> >Many LT1s go 300k miles.
>
> ..... after three water pumps, two optisparks, four valve cover gasket
> renewals, an engine rebuild or two, and conversion to good ole green
> antifreeze  :o))))))))

- -------------------

Chebby or not, the LT-1 is a pretty good engine.  Steve is right about the
OptiSput, though.  A real POS.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 09:09:29 -0500
From: "jbschuren" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

which ones piston slap and use a quart of oil every 3k? is it lt1 or ls6
design? I forget......

JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors


> > >Steve is misinformed.
> > >Many LT1s go 300k miles.
> >
> > ..... after three water pumps, two optisparks, four valve cover gasket
> > renewals, an engine rebuild or two, and conversion to good ole green
> > antifreeze  :o))))))))
>
> -------------------
>
> Chebby or not, the LT-1 is a pretty good engine.  Steve is right about the
> OptiSput, though.  A real POS.
>
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 12:31:41 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: On = Off

if anybody has clever suggestions for the ign system that will not shut off, 
please remember to CC me on email or maybe even call me, as I am on digest 
at the list, and do not see stuff until a day later.

Would like to drive/ get rings seated today. Car is NOT leaving the driveway 
until the key shuts engine OFF though.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information 
and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 13:03:50 -0400
From: "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: It's baaaaaack! 

Not the HO expert, but 3 things jumped out at me:
1.  The VIN on the engine apears to be RAISED not stamped
2.  The wheels are incorrect.
3.  The aircleaner lid (flapper) is incorrect.

Also, I wonder why eVil allows private auctions that hide the bidders.  It
sure makes it convenient for the sellers that someone like Chris can't
contact those that are getting taken...

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 1:31 PM
Subject: It's baaaaaack!


> The faked VIN stamp 1969 H/O back on eVil
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=15287&item
=2470655436
>
> I sent the seller this:
>
> Have you no morals, sir?!
> You have been notified REPEATEDLY that the 1969 H/O's VIN stamp on the
> engine is FAKE- it's not even the RIGHT NUMBER that should be there!!!
Yet,
> here is the car, again, listed without correcting that blatant LIE. I
> reported that to eBay, but they reply only that it is up to all al buyers
to
> beware of scurrilous cheating sellers such as yourself. What does it take
to
> "convince" you to CORRECT YOUR LYING AD?
>
> Chris Witt
> *the* Rocket Scientist
> 517-449-0432
>
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
> Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 13:28:20 -0400
From: "David J. Duffner - Trofeoworld.com" <oldslist@trofeoworld.com>
Subject: RE: It's baaaaaack! 

>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Kurt Heinrich
>Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 1:04 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: It's baaaaaack! 
>
>Not the HO expert, but 3 things jumped out at me:
>1.  The VIN on the engine apears to be RAISED not stamped
>2.  The wheels are incorrect.
>3.  The aircleaner lid (flapper) is incorrect.
>
>Also, I wonder why eVil allows private auctions that hide the 
>bidders.  It sure makes it convenient for the sellers that someone
>like Chris can't contact those that are getting taken...

	Ok, maybe it's just me... 

	Can't someone get in contact with this guy as a 'real buyer'
and figure out where he's located?  And then possibly call the
local PD and complain about the fact he's trying to pawn off a
faked VIN vehicle for sale?  I know in Ohio he wouldn't last long,
they'd run the VIN and determine what the real deal was.  Then he'd
stand a 90% chance of that thing being impounded for good, so he'd 
lose?

	eVil hasn't given a rat's hind one in years, especially since
picking up PayPal.  They just want the transaction, they could care
less who lists what.  Should be a crime, but they fly under the radar
until something major happens.

	Just my thoughts...

    David J. Duffner
    Editor
    TrofeoWorld.com

=========================================================
Trofeoworld.com - Your Oldsmobile Toronado 
Gen III/IV and GM E-body Resource! - www.trofeoworld.com
=========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 13:54:48 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FW: Re: No road test today

Forgot to send this directly. Briefly: start the car, then turn off the key
(should still be running). Then unplug the alternator. I bet the alternator
has a bad regulator that's leaking back through the harness and keeping it
running. Have heard of this before but never experienced this myself.

SteveH
===========
Hmmmm.....
This is the Oldschool system, separate VReg on the firewall... unmodified.

Leaky diode in the alt maybe? I do have another alt I can try.

Will try that. THANKS
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
>To: RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>Subject: Re: No road test today
>Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 17:08:05 +0000
>
>Forgot to send this directly. Briefly: start the car, then turn off the key
>(should still be running). Then unplug the alternator. I bet the alternator
>has a bad regulator that's leaking back through the harness and keeping it
>running. Have heard of this before but never experienced this myself.
>
>SteveH

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 14:06:15 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: keeps running with key OFF

>From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
>To: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: keeps running
>Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 13:02:48 -0400
>
>Hi Chris, are you getting feedback from the alternator? I (haven't followed
>this threa so if this has  been covered, sorry)
>If so a inline diode is needed.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Joe Walters
>73 H/O
=======================
OK, Another vote for that
I also have a guy with tale of 1964 that fed ign back thru a burned out 
courtesy lite lamp?

Looking over the CSM wiring diagram, I just cannot see how any volts gets to 
the stock IGN wire circuit when the Ign Sw is "OFF".

Remember that MOST of the HEI wiring is now totally underhood. Battery to 
ckt brkr to relay; Relay out to HEI-n-Choke. That's it. The only function 
the stock ign circuit now has is to activate a small relay, VERY LITTLE 
current draw, it's about 70 ohms coil, so, way under 1 amp.

Now, there was a simultaneous 2nd wiring mod, wherein I ran a similar relay 
off the parking lights ckt brown wire... don't see how that could bring this 
on either, but easy enough to disconnect and put back to stock just in case.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 14:44:42 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

> A friend from high school (which was about 30 years
> ago) sent me an e-mail. Seems his boss is looking to
> sell a 1970 SX conv with the 455. What are these
> worth? What to look for to authenticate it as genuine?
> Any help appreciated... also what are the price range
> on these?
There is really no way to tell a genuine SX from a regular Cutlass Supreme
with 455...about the only thing you can do is verify that the engine is
original to the car, which can be seen from the VIN stamping on the block
below the head on the driver's side.
SX convertibles, although some ePay shysters like to think so, don't really
fetch that much more than a regular convertible, which is around $10,000 in
near-mint shape. I bought my decent looking, albeit wavy paint, 71
convertible, complete with bondo, for $5000 three years ago.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 15:18:41 -0400
From: "Erwin Mendoza" <olds6887442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

http://members.fortunecity.com/rbarry/sx.html

Maybe the above link can be of help to you



Erwin Mendoza
OCA# 29671
Rallye 350 Chapter(gone but not forgotten)
87 442 (gone as of 10/02/03)
68 442
Edison, NJ
mailto:olds6887442@hotmail.com





>From: frank iezzi <mrfiezzi@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
>Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 16:59:54 -0800 (PST)
>
>Hello fellow Olds friends:
>
>A friend from high school (which was about 30 years
>ago) sent me an e-mail. Seems his boss is looking to
>sell a 1970 SX conv with the 455. What are these
>worth? What to look for to authenticate it as genuine?
>Any help appreciated... also what are the price range
>on these?
>
>Thanks in advance... I need another Olds!
>
>Frank Iezzi
>Columbus OH
>1969 Cutlass 'S'

_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 15:26:08 -0400
From: "John Orr" <olds330@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: It's baaaaaack! 

40 grand would be something major I would think........
john 
67 cutlass supreme
ps I would like to know who has bid that much so far!?!?

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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 16:14:39 EDT
From: DrivFast4U@aol.com
Subject: sounds like rod knock

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Greetings Gentlemen! First I'd like to say that I have enjoyed this list 
immensely over the time I have been reading it. Now, I have a question for the 
group. Recently I have gone way over budget with a 455 build up (no surprise,I'm 
sure!). I can't help myself, I just love my BB olds. I have a '78 Omega with a 
455 from a '76 Custom Cruiser (damn, I miss that CC!), I recently installed a 
moderate cam (.484/.512)  and edelbrock heads (shaved .060). When I start it 
up it has a regular knock like a rod knock. The NIGHTMARE company I purchased 
these products from, said "check your lifter preload". This does not sound 
like lifter preload problem to me. It sounds like a valve whacking a piston, but  
I am told that this is not likely.  Other than this disturbing noise, and the 
need for a little Q-jet tweeking, the engine runs good. Has anybody had a 
similar problem? Thanks for any help you can give!

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f"><FONT face=3D"Californian FB">Greetings Gentlemen! First I'd like to say=20=
that I have enjoyed this list immensely over the time I have been reading it=
. Now, I have a question for the group. Recently I have gone way over budget=
 with a 455 build up (no surprise,I'm sure!). I can't help myself, I just lo=
ve my BB olds.&nbsp;I have a '78 Omega with a 455 from a&nbsp;'76 Custom Cru=
iser (damn, I miss that CC!),&nbsp;I recently installed a moderate cam (.484=
/.512) &nbsp;and edelbrock heads (shaved .060). When I start it up it has a=20=
regular knock like a rod knock. The&nbsp;<U>NIGHTMARE</U>&nbsp;company&nbsp;=
I&nbsp;purchased these products from, said "check your lifter preload".&nbsp=
;This does not sound like lifter preload problem to me. It sounds like a val=
ve whacking a piston, but&nbsp; I am told that this is not likely.&nbsp; Oth=
er than this disturbing noise, and the need for a little Q-jet tweeking, the=
 engine runs good. Has anybody&nbsp;had a similar problem? Thanks for any he=
lp you can give!</FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081109679--

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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 16:24:14 -0400
From: "Christian Sager" <chris.sager@cox.net>
Subject: Quadrajet Olds 307 Computer controlled carb

Hey guys,

I have a carb off my 307 that I have no need for.  I tried to sell it on
ebay for $10 with no interest.  I would hate to see it go to the
junkyard!  If anyone wants it I will only charge the actual shipping
charges for it based on your zip!

Some pictures are available at:

www.ccxn.net/carb1.JPG
www.ccxn.net/carb2.JPG
www.ccxn.net/carb3.JPG
www.ccxn.net/carb4.JPG


Let me know!

Christian Sager
Chris.sager@cox.net

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Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 13:38:08 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: It's baaaaaack! 

I must have missed the original thread when it was on ebay the first time.

Can you elaborate why this isn't the correct number on the pad? It is the 
same amount of digits than I find on my 71 442, it is the last digits of 
that h/o's vin and it sure is in the same location than my 71 vin: 
http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg

How do you recognize the number being stampted to be fake? Is it the size 
or the font. My number in the above picture is very fuzzy, but it sure does 
not look significantly different from the one ont he H/O?

So, the issue with the car, is it that the engine is fabricated to look 
like the numbers matching block? I see that it has Ka heads, which isn't 
what you'd really want, but one could argue that those are the 70s factory 
replacements.

Have you noticed, there is about half a page of Olds FAQ cited in the ad.

Cheers, George
71 442
71 c/s rag.

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Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 20:41:03 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: keeps running with key OFF

At 02:06 PM 4/4/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, Another vote for that
>I also have a guy with tale of 1964 that fed ign back thru a burned out 
>courtesy lite lamp?

Naaaawwww. Musta been other things wrong with his wiring to allow that to
happen. I don't doubt it, but there HADDA been sumpin else happening, too,
that didn't get fixed once he put in the new bulb and found the problem gone.

>Looking over the CSM wiring diagram, I just cannot see how any volts gets to 
>the stock IGN wire circuit when the Ign Sw is "OFF".

The alternator is capable of generating several amps at 12V even when the
field is NOT excited by the ignition switch's power. That would be enough
to keep it running. Depending upon how the car is wired, turning on
high-current accessories might drag the alternator down sufficiently that
the HEI shuts off... blower motor, for example. But the blower has to be
wired so it runs off the same power line as the HEI which I bet isn't the
case.

>Remember that MOST of the HEI wiring is now totally underhood.

I'm sure it hasn't anything to do with the HEI by itself, but more likely
has sumpin to do with how you may have wired in the HEI.... or if you've
had to do any wiring repair, how the repair was rewired. The high-current
output terminal of the alternator should be not be going to anything other
than the battery, and nothing else should be wired to the battery that's
supposed to be cut off by the ignition switch.

>Now, there was a simultaneous 2nd wiring mod, wherein I ran a similar relay 
>off the parking lights ckt brown wire... don't see how that could bring this 
>on either, but easy enough to disconnect and put back to stock just in case.

SOMEWHERE, you're getting battery or alternator power directly to the HEI
through the relay. Your task, should you choose to accept it, is to
backtrack and figger out the culprit  ;o\

As usual, we all disavowen any responsibility for das schtupiden
schieschkopfen dumbshooey mistakenmen dat resulten un das spitzensparkens
and/or flamenbangens  ;o)

SteveH

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Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 21:18:26 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Quadrajet Olds 307 Computer controlled carb

At 04:24 PM 4/4/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey guys,
>
>I have a carb off my 307 that I have no need for......
......

>www.ccxn.net/carb3.JPG
>www.ccxn.net/carb4.JPG

Ahha... was gwan ask what year, etc. but I see this's the 17088115 used on
full-sized wagons 1988-1990. Other than the ILC on the front-left, it's
basically the same as a 17086008 used on 1986-1988 Cutlass/Regal, etc.

Ifn you can hold onto it long nuff for me to get to yer place sometime, I'd
like it for another core.

SteveH

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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 17:40:20 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: long time owners

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 But of course I still have the car Tami. Chances are good I'll probably be 
buried in it!
                                                 
                                                        Ron Forsee
                                                        65-442 Onlyest Owner

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"> But of course I still have the car=
 Tami. Chances are good I'll probably be buried in it!<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
 <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  Ron Forsee<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  65-442 Onlyest Owner</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 15:07:11 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

>SX convertibles, although some ePay shysters like to think so, don't really
>fetch that much more than a regular convertible, which is around $10,000 in
>near-mint shape.

Chris, I'd take three of those near mint 70-72 cutlass convertibles for 
$10k!!! Quite frankly: I wouldn't sell you mine for 10k, even though it 
isn't mint...

 > I bought my decent looking, albeit wavy paint, 71
 > convertible, complete with bondo, for $5000 three years ago.

You bought your car 3 years ago. Three years is a long time. These cars 
have gone up in value quite a bit. Too many financially independent baby 
boomers fulfilling high school dreams! Also, there is a long way between a 
5 gallon bondo car and a "near mint" example.

Genuine SX convertibles *do* fetch a significanlty higher price than a 
cutlass. I would place it between a 442 ragtop and a Cutlass ragtop, maybe 
even closer to the 442 droptop. If nothing else, you have the 455/th400 and 
better suspension as original equipment. Since when did that combo become 
equally desirable as a 350 2bbl / th350 ???

:)

George
71 442
71 c/s ragtop

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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 19:38:23 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: long time owners

Ron...now that is so kewl!! I wish I could keep a car that long....LOL The
Cutty is the longest one I have ever owned besides my Benz and I sold that
after almost 8 yrs of ownership to buy my Cutty back!!

Were can I see pics of your car??

Tami

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Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 20:08:17 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: On = Off ? Changed alternator, not fixed... 

More developments...

Ck actual volts at ign wire [relay coil feed]
13-14 when running and Ign Sw = On
5.6 when running and Ign Sw = Off- enough to hold relay on.

Disconnect Alt big red wire, no diff
Disco Alt 2-terminal conn'r- engine dies. Aha!
Plug back in, hear click from VReg
Unplug, hear click
Plug in, hear click.
All with key OFF
That can't be right...

Remove alt, take to store.
They test, say it's bad, get new pretty one, more amps too.
Not 100% sure the tester operator knew what he was doing though.
Says it put out a whopping 11A.

Install newly rblt alt.
SAME THING- almost
At relay coil, ~13V when Ign = On, 5.6V when Ign Off.
Unplug alt 2-banger, engine dies.
Relay does NOT click heartily now when alt F&R wires attached/ distached.

Grrrrrrrrrr
Have wiring noted, about to ck all of them, and try alternate external VReg 
too.
Of COURSE, all the wires WERE exposed/ unwrapped halfway when car came to 
me, I just got thru taping them and fitting then inside convoluted tubing. 
Back then, off was OFF though. No reason to suspect that simply addind a 
friggin RELAY to run an HEI would lead to this.

If the new but externally regulated Alt'r will not do it, I might as well 
NOT use the nice new but oldschool alternator, but change over to the newer 
internally regulated type alt.

But, what if THAT does not fix the problem either???

This is turning into the Car From Hell.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 20:13:26 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: on = off ?

>From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
>To: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Hi Chris
>Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 15:22:51 -0400
>
>  it is due to a small amount of voltage going through the charging lamp
>indicator and feeding the small Red wire even if the key is turned off.
>
>This is a common deal with MSD boxes, I have one in mine for that reason. I
>have heard of it in stock also.
>
>I think on yours if you disconnect terminal 4 from your external voltage
>regulator (if equipped) it will tell you.
==========
Aha, you are the 2nd to suggest that... based on MSD experiences.
So, put a diode in the red line at the VReg
Orient it so that???

Guessing so that juice goes INTO VReg at red wire but not back out. Will try 
that next.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

>
>Later,
>
>Joe Walters
>73 H/O
>
>

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