
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 12 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4885



Re: ceramic coating exhaust manifolds - update
Re: ceramic coating exhaust manifolds - update
Oil filters
Re: What's an M intake?
Re: High torque starter?
Re: 60,000 ???
RE: how much freon pressure?
Any Olds owner on the list in Denver, CO?
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
RE: Any Olds owner on the list in Denver, CO?
RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: High torque starter?
A/C answers?
RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: how much freon pressure?
now its junk
Name-Brand vs. Non-Name-Brand (was:an intake manifold gasket] on a '96   Silhouette?
Convertible top problems
Re: Convertible top problems
Flexalite fan
Re: Flexalite fan
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96  Silhouette?
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: High torque starter?
RE: Flexalite fan
Re: Flexalite fan

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 23:23:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: ceramic coating exhaust manifolds - update

George,

If the ceramic goes on as a high gloss and is self-leveling and smooth, the
carbon won't stick and there will be less boundary layer drag to the exhaust
flow. If.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: ceramic coating exhaust manifolds - update


> Chris:
>
> Why coat exhaust manifolds on the inside? They will be covered with carbon
> soon after! ;)
>
> George
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 02:32:55 EDT
From: Bear193442@aol.com
Subject: Re: ceramic coating exhaust manifolds - update

- --part1_1db.21171ca6.2dd1cd97_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

coating the insides of exhaust systems also sends a lot of the heat out back 
the of the car instead of the engine compartment. Bear

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">coating the insides of exhaust syst=
ems also sends a lot of the heat out back the of the car instead of the engi=
ne compartment. Bear</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1db.21171ca6.2dd1cd97_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 00:45:47 -0700
From: "mike jones" <spazzer@comcast.net>
Subject: Oil filters

Delco's PF58 has been discontinued, yes.  Delco's PF61 will work, I've been using them for about the
last 6-8 months with no ill effects.  The PF61 won't be going anywhere for a while, its used on the
S/T SUV (Trailblazer) 4.2L I6s.

Mike Jones

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 23:04:04 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: What's an M intake?

> I thought that Olds went with 4-bbls across the board on all 350's
starting
> in '73.

- -----------------

Close.  All '74-'90 Olds V8's except the 260 were Quadrajet equipped from
the factory.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 06:03:20 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: High torque starter?

On May 11, 2004, at 12:06 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 09:26:37 -0700
> From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
> Subject: Re: High torque starter?
>
>> Date: Sun, 09 May 2004 17:00:58 -0700
>> From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
>> Subject: Re: High torque starter?
>>
>> I need something that has been made new. Something
>> that hasn't been rebuilt ever - god knows where.
>>
>>
>> George
>
> I agree that if you buy a $29.99 rebuilt starter at AutoZone or
> wherever you WILL be using that lifetime warranty, as you get
> exactly what you paid $29.99 for.
>
> I have always had very good results with having my original high
> torque starter rebuilt at a reputable electric shop that rewinds
> starter/armatures. Most of the time the cost is the same as
> purchasing a remanufactured unit, but you have YOUR unit rebuilt
> to factory specs with all new parts.

The starter I have on my '70 Sport Coupe is an AZ rebuild that's been 
on there for years. Amazingly enough, they actually came up with the 
correct high-torque model (10.25:1 350). No problems so far. I'm pretty 
sure that I paid more than $29.99, though. The only thing that was 
wrong with my old starter was the Bendix drive. Should have had it 
rebuilt, but I was in a hurry for some reason that I can't remember.
If I have to buy another one, I'll probably go with something like the 
Summit high-torque model - the factory starter is a pain to get up 
there!

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 06:33:30 -0500
From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
Subject: Re: 60,000 ???

There are a lot people that think that they have a car that is made of GOLD.
Bob
- ----- Original Message -----
From: JOHN ORR <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 11:41 AM
Subject: 60,000 ???


>    hey all,
>   I was looking over the cars for sale at 442.com.....  Is me, am I
missing
> something
> here, 60,000 for a 71 drop top W30??????
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 13:57:55 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: how much freon pressure?

>I was familiar with the location of the high and low side ports on the
>1986 Delta, so I figured the systems were just about identical.

I would have thunk so, too, assuming you're not trying to compare an R12 
system with the hardware of an R134a (okay, I don't think you are, and I 
know the main visual differences would be mainly valve sizes...).

>So, digging under the hood of the 1989....  Hmm... well, there's the
>high-side port, on that canister-thingy by the firewall (I'm sure it's got
>a proper name),

That'd be the 
evaporator/drier/accumulator/oh-jeez-now-you've-got-me-confused-too...

>but where the heck is the low-side port?

On my Bonneville of '93 vintage, it's on one of the lines about midway 
between the accumulator and the condensor up front. However, I thought high 
and low-sides typically have different valve sizes to avoid mixups like 
this, so perhaps you did stumble on to the right one already.

>Ah well, I'll just monitor the high-pressure to see how much I've got.
[...]
>But, lo and behold!  When I hook up the manifold set, this supposed
>"high pressure" port is actually low-pressure . . dropping whenever the
>compressor turns on!
[...]
>I know there's a name for this other oddball type system, and I guess
>any freon I add has to go in this port.

Um, no offense, Joe, but unless you get some authoritative answers from 
somebody in this forum, puh-leeze hold off until you can find a proper 
manual; I really doubt you're going to do a good job of recharging by simple 
trial-and-error like this. It's not that you're likely to blow up the car 
real good or anything like that, just that you don't want to waste Freon 
(especially by overfilling) by not knowing how much to add, where to add it, 
how to add it or when to stop; know what I mean?

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 09:06:04 -0500
From: texas442@texas442.com
Subject: Any Olds owner on the list in Denver, CO?

I will be in Denver Memorial Day weekend.  I was curious if there are anyone 
on the list that can tell me where the good car cruises, etc, are.
Also where do the local Olds hang out in Denver?  My sister (who lives in 
Denver) owns a 71 Cutlass Convertible and needs to take it out of the garage 
more often.

Ali
Austin,TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 14:14:51 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

>I haven't had time to put the Bars Leak in. I'll try
>to do it in the next couple of days.

Refresh my memory, Milton, please: Is this going to be just preventive 
maintenance (or "preventative" as the Bar's Leak bottle says, which is 
technically okay according to the dictionary but still strikes me as goofy 
because I've heard of "prevention" but not "preventation" and can you tell 
that the Starbucks has soaked in already this morning)? :-)

Having gone through this process now, I can say that it seems to have 
corrected the leak, but Gawd, what it does to the coolant: It's now 
completely black. If I see that in the next car I'm looking to buy, I'll 
know exactly what the seller was trying (successfully or unsuccessfully) to 
fix, a tipoff that the car may be needing some expensive surgery sooner or 
later.

So what I'm saying is, I don't know that I'd recommend doing this unless 
there's a clearly-diagnosed leak to be fixed.

>Try the 10/30. It may help. Also, Mobil 1 seems to work wonders.
>I never thought I'd ever say that about a synthetic engine oil
>after being thoroughly burned by AmsOil many, many years ago.

I've always preferred the original dinosaur juice, usually Valvoline, if for 
no other reason than that I prefer frequent oil changes (the van gets one 
every 2000-2500 miles), but I think the factory's recommended 5W-30 
year-round is a bit thin, especially now that the engine's up to 112K. Other 
than the recent noisy lifter, which goes away within 2 minutes of driving 
off in the morning, the engine purrs.

As for the oil filters, my $.02 is that I buy OEM brands for whatever car 
I'm working on whenever possible. In the (highly unlikely) event that a 
defective oil filter ruins the engine somehow (it's never happened to me but 
there's a first time for everything), I don't have to worry about 
fingerpointing between the dealer and a third-party filter manufacturer over 
whose fault it is.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 09:19:41 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Any Olds owner on the list in Denver, CO?

Hey Ali,  since you will be in Colorado, here nice wagon you can drive home.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2478135179&category=6391

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: texas442@texas442.com [mailto:texas442@texas442.com]
 > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 9:06 AM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Any Olds owner on the list in Denver, CO?
 > 
 > 
 > I will be in Denver Memorial Day weekend.  I was curious if 
 > there are anyone 
 > on the list that can tell me where the good car cruises, etc, are.
 > Also where do the local Olds hang out in Denver?  My sister 
 > (who lives in 
 > Denver) owns a 71 Cutlass Convertible and needs to take it 
 > out of the garage 
 > more often.
 > 
 > Ali
 > Austin,TX
 > 
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 11:00:15 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

- -----Original Message-----
<I've always preferred the original dinosaur juice, usually Valvoline, if for 
<no other reason than that I prefer frequent oil changes (the van gets one 
<every 2000-2500 miles), but I think the factory's recommended 5W-30 
<year-round is a bit thin, especially now that the engine's up to 112K.

Andy, I can tell you the '98 I have torn down right now (with 122K) had no ridge on the cylinders. Always used 5W-30 - changed 3000-4000 miles.

Eric Holcombe 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 09:39:27 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: High torque starter?

> Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 19:02:32 -0700
> From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Re: High torque starter?
> 
> >I have always had very good results with having my original high
> >torque starter rebuilt at a reputable electric shop that rewinds
> >starter/armatures. Most of the time the cost is the same as
> >purchasing a remanufactured unit, but you have YOUR unit rebuilt
> >to factory specs with all new parts.
> 
> Ken, but what if you got your car with a 29.99 starter 
> already on it. ;). 

Well, if you replace it with another $29.99 starter then you're not 
any better off than you were before.

> The solenoid is what's crapping out on me, and that's a $35 
> unit by itself, from Year One. 

Why are you purchasing a parts store item from a restoration house? Leave Year One 
and other such outlets for the Oldsmobile-specific items that you can't get at the 
parts store, like fenders, bumpers, seat covers, etc. 

The local Checker Auto Parts has the AC Delco solenoid #D981 in stock for $25.99. That's 
$9 + shipping charges less than mail ordering it, plus you get it a lot faster (as in you 
walk out of the store with it). And the local NAPA store has a Heavy Duty solenoid in its 
Echlin line of parts, STH107 for $31.49. Again, available same day with no waiting for the 
UPS delivery truck. While you're there, ask them about the Balkamp solenoid heat shield, 
part # 6561571 for $9.69 - that might help you with your solenoid issue.
 
> Cheers, George

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 13:03:03 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: A/C answers?

To Joe and anyone else who might be interested

Your 89 is a little new for me but making several assumnptions R-12 CCOT
system the low side should not be much lower than 30 lbs then the 
compressor should cut out (cycle) enging speed should not matter doors 
closed windows up A/C on max or recirculate with fan on hi. The hi 
pressure side is temperature specific and since you haven't found or 
hooked to the hi side it does not matter much. There is no sight glass 
in this system so you will just have to charge to air temp at the 
discharge in the dash. Anywhere between 40 and 50 degrees should be OK
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 17:32:20 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

>Andy, I can tell you the '98 I have torn down right now (with 122K) had no 
>ridge on the cylinders. Always used 5W-30 - changed 3000-4000 miles.

Yeah, I should clarify here that the reason I'm thinking of upping the 
viscosity is only to see if it will help the noisy/leaky lifter. I know the 
engine itself should be showing no noticeable wear in the cylinders, since 
it's been pretty well pampered with fresh oil and filters all its life, and 
certainly sounds happy otherwise...

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 14:18:30 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

<Yeah, I should clarify here that the reason I'm thinking of upping the 
<viscosity is only to see if it will help the noisy/leaky lifter. 

Ok, well I would probably try some CD-2 then. 

Eric Holcombe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 20:53:38 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: how much freon pressure?

> I was familiar with the location of the high and low side ports on the
> 1986 Delta, so I figured the systems were just about identical.

They appear to be similar but have slight differences.

> 	So, digging under the hood of the 1989....  Hmm... well, there's the
> high-side port, on that canister-thingy by the firewall (I'm sure it's got
> a proper name), 

Accumulator.  And it houses the low pressure cycling switch, according to the
catalog.  

> but where the heck is the low-side port?

The other pressure port (at least according to the parts catalog - which by the
way calls it the high pressure valve) is located in the line that runs from the
evaporator to the condenser.  This is a two piece line in '89 and the valve in
the forward-most of the two pieces (I'm guessing maybe 6 to 8 inches from the
condenser).

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 19:35:34 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: now its junk

Hi all
     Well about an hour ago and for the second time in just over a week 
someone drove into the back of my 70GT while it was parked. I think its 
probably junk now and will be parting it out. If you need anything give 
a shout before I start puting stuff on e-bay.
thanks
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 23:59:33 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Name-Brand vs. Non-Name-Brand (was:an intake manifold gasket] on a '96   Silhouette?

At 01:01 AM 5/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> >Wix makes the CarQuest Blue and Napa Gold filters.

Maybe one can find the NAPA Gold somewhere other than a NAPA store but from
a NAPA store, they're expensive.

>So, if you were to go into a CarQuest or Napa, you wouldn't buy 
>a chassis part or belt/hose even though Moog makes the chassis 
>products and Gates makes the rubber?

No, I certainly would not unless I was convinced the entire part was simply
moved from a Moog or Gates box into another. I've had enough of the
non-name-brand stuff falling apart soon after installation; that's for the
younger guys with more energy and weekend time and years remaining in their
lifespan to play around with.

>OR even plug wires from CarQuest, even though they are made by 
>Prestolite who manufacturers 90% of the OEM plug wires?

A few parts, such as plug wires, are a little different. I choose plug
wires by carefully inspecting them for the kinds of faults I've
encountered, because I've never found a plug wire manufacturer that didn't
change their product within a cupla years and thus obsoleted what I USED to
buy. So personally, I don't have any particular preference in plug wires
but instead, I go by the apparent quality and construction and materials. I
used to buy a pretty good set of plug wires from WallyWorld but they
stopped carrying parts like that, becoming only a "supermarket" auto parts
type of supplier.

>Something else to ponder...why would these companies risk their 
>reputation by having their names on the "aftermarket" stores 
>boxing if they were providing an inferior or lesser quality product?

Perhaps because they really don't have much of a reputation to lose to
begin with  ;o\

The fact is that a large majority of the automobile-repairing public really
doesn't care much WHAT brand they buy, as long as it lasts long enough that
they can afford to put the time, energy, and money into replacing the part
still again. Then there's a small percentage who've been there, done that,
and have formed opinions and preferences through the years based on
experience. If there were a Carquest or Autozone as close to my house as
Advance, I'd likely buy from them when I need something relatively-mundane.
But I've learned that I can almost always buy the parts I want, in boxes
carrying the logos of the manufacturers I trust, via the web at prices FAR
below what I have to pay at the stores in this southwestern Connecticut
town. And I've begun doing that only to find I have to carefully plan when
I intend to install those parts as they may not arrive for up to two weeks
;o\ 

Now, if those same parts ARE available locally at or close to the same
price, then its no contest: off to the store. One can find their prices on
the web and compare, without even having to go outside  ;o)

But NO WAY would I buy a store-brand part over the web without already
knowing exactly what I'm gonna get, unless it just doesn't matter to me.

>Don't you think that would come back to bite them if the products 
>weren't up to their standards?

The real question is whether some of these companies even HAVE standards
like that of the original equipment manufacturers. Most don't seem to: they
seem to sell stuff they buy en masse from the lowest bidder. Who knows what
standards their buyers use? 99% of their customers certainly don't.

>Also, why would they offer lifetime gaurantees on many of the 
>product lines if they didn't expect them to last?

Some give a "lifetime warranty" in the sure knowledge that only a small
percentage of buyers will ever want to return such a product, whether
broken or the buyer is simply dissatisfied or the buyer loses the receipt
or even forgets they got a lifetime warranty. I presume the prices reflect
the costs of a certain percentage of bad parts which percentage has been
determined based upon experience and market studies.

>The jobber sends them back to the distributor to get their
>money back, then the distributor sends them back to the 
>manufacturer. It's also the manufacturer who ultimately pays 
>for any labor claims that result from defective products.

Working for a company as a manufacturing engineer who daily "dispositions"
broken and incorrect parts to either be scrapped (if they're cheap enough)
or for return, I'm aware how long it can take to get a refund or credit
from a manufacturer. We still have broken parts sitting on the shelves
since XMAS for which we're waiting a Return Material Authorization. And the
majority of those manufacturers are all on US soil, not overseas. A few
parts are Japanese and our on-shore supplier has given up trying to get
them replaced by the manufacturer over there, so they simply junk them and
raise the price to accomodate something like a 5% scrap cost  ;o(

>I can show you a line of inexpensive (like the crappy Purolator)
>filter that the manufacturer sells under atleast 6 different 
>"brand" names. Same cheap filter (under $2 in most cases), very 
>similar part numbers.....different names. One of those is the 
>CarQuest red filters and you know....every dealership that I deal 
>with requests those filters instead of the more costly Blue box 
>Wix filters when there is a choice. Why? Because they meet OEM 
>specs and are cheap!!

YOU have an advantage over the usual customer, though: YOU have the ability
to look into your parts stock and suppliers and figger out just which ones
are really what. Most of us out here don't have either the time or ability
to do that. You also know what customers buy what, in what quantities, and
keep coming back for more, a sure sign that they've found the part useful.
Most of your customers don't have that luxury, so we usually stick with OEM
brands (presuming they're proven quality) as much as possible simply
because we don't have the time, energy or money to conduct science
experiments to determine which non-name-brand parts are worthy.

>As far as market share....that's why suppliers such as Wix, 
>Moog, Gates, Raybestos, Gabriel etc. rebox their products under 
>anothers name. It's called, we'll buy x-amount of product from 
>you yearly, for x-discount/price BUT we want it relabelled under 
>OUR name.

I and others understand that; but that's also exactly WHY we usually don't
want to buy those reboxed parts: we don't really know where they came from,
nor their actual quality.

Take, for example, the line that Autozone tried to introduce a cupla years
ago, Deutsch or whatever it was called. NOBODY... but NOBODY... had the
vaguest idea what that stuff really was. A few would buy, perhaps... but
the majority of us simply asked for Delco or whatever and if they no longer
had it in stock, we went elsewhere.

Now, Autozone has seemed to back off on all the Deutsch stock that they
USED to have, and the shelves are once again carrying SOME of the
name-brand stuff.

>Pep-Boys puts out a bid every year for supplying their brand of oil. 
>I'm not sure who won the bid for this year, but I do know that last 
>years second place bid only lost out by .02 per quart.

I rather seriously doubt that you would find ANYBODY on this reflector who
would admit to buying and using something like Pep Boy's brand of oil,
unless it's for a vehicle that's clearly on its last legs (or perhaps a
ricer)  ;o\  How would we know that whoever filled those plastic containers
LAST month, will be filling them again with the same "quality" of oil, NEXT
month?

In my younger days, my buddies and I would go buy such 4-gallon buckets of
oil for some daily-driver that we never expected to last out the year. And
some of our fun conversational times was had when we "bragged" just how
MUCH longer those drivers may have lasted, DESPITE our having used that
"cheap" oil, or antifreeze, or whatever it was  ;o)))))))))

>Some suppliers are semi smart....they sell rebranded products, but the
>jobber also has to sell their name brand item. ie. Permatex....same product
>as the CarQuest brand hanging next too it....difference? CQ is 1/2 the
>price.

Yes; but I'll pick out the Permatex simply because I'll feel comfortable
with it. I WON'T pick up the "cheapy" stuff unless I really don't care much
about the vehicle (or unless I'm really hard-up ;o)

>Matter of fact, you'll find the Permatex part number on the CQ
>product along with the CQ part number.

OK; but when *I've* seen that kind of thing on a non-brand-name package, it
would say something like "equivalent to such-and-such's PN xxx-xxx". Being
"equivalent" isn't quite the same thing as actually BEING the same stuff.
And I'm just not going to pick up the non-name-brand package and spend a
few minutes trying to figger out whether it is, or not.

The OTHER thing you have to keep in mind is that supermarkets have been
playing this store-brand product game for decades now. And most of us have
learned that indeed and in fact, there usually IS a difference between the
store-brand and the name-brand product. It either doesn't look quite the
same, or doesn't taste quite the same, doesn't mix or coagulate or heat
quite the same, or something like that. It's natural for we who don't care
for those store-brand food products to carry our prejudice over to OTHER
types of products.

>Gunk, CRC....same deal, just not with their part #'s. Same with 
>Napa.....actually Napa and CQ use many of the same suppliers.

Most parts stores seem to, these days. Some don't carry certain brands...
at least, not in that brand's boxes. If we don't see that familiar logo on
the box on the shelf, we usually aren't gonna spend the time looking for a
replacement (unless we're up a creek, as I was last Thursday night and had
to settle for a regular, run-of-the-mill NAPA filter instead of my
preferred Delco PF58). We'll just walk out and go down the street.

And now JoeV tells us the PF58 has been discontinued???  Sheesh.... kill
off the Oldsmobile brand and now they're trying to kill off parts to keep
them on the road, eh  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 20:29:37 -0400
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
Subject: Convertible top problems

OK, so I replaced the top motor in the "new" '75 Delta, and it still didn't
move.  'Good thing I didn't have to buy the motor (it was in the trunk when
the car arrived), because it turns out to be the top motor relay that's the
problem.  I found a relay at a nearby Cadillac dealer, replaced it, and the
motor now works, but really labors to move the top up and down.  This is a
car that has spent most of its life in storage (under 20K miles).  The top
binds and twists and really pushes the motor to its limits.  Rather than
burn out the motor, I figured I'd go to the experts.

I've gotten a suggestion from Bruce to replace the cables, which I imagine
has something to do with the laborious attempts to move this scissor top.
I'm guessing that, like the steering cable on my outboard runabout, the
cable probably corrodes inside so the square flex shaft ceases to spin like
it should.  Aside from that, I'm sure everything needs some lubrication.
Does anyone have experience with these and can tell me what the key lube
points are and what kind of lube I should use?

Any additional tips would be appreciated.  The $20 for a convertible top
maintenance manual that Hydro-E-lectric is looking more and more like a good
investment...

Thanks in advance.

Scott
71 442 Convertible
75 Delta 88 NON-convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 18:25:12 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Convertible top problems

White lithium grease in all points of the frame that have a joint will work 
wonders. No groaning and squeaking any more on my top. I doubt you will 
need new cables.

I have a leaky cylinder though. :) Anyone have a good one for sale?

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 21:42:14 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: Flexalite fan

I installed a flexalite dual low profile fan on my "hot when idling".040
over olds 425. I also have a modified alluminum radiator... The tanks have
been modified to force the coolant through the radiator 3 times before
flowing into the engine again... Through the top, the middle and bottom...
When I installed the alum rad. Without modding it did a great job compared
to my new stock radiator..
After modifying the tanks it cooled.. Well....like I had 3 radiators
working...superb...

However... I still find while in heavy driving, traffic etc... @ an idle it
can get up to 220degrees ....
If I am driving 30 plus mph...no prob...it cools to about 190...

I am assuming my 2500cfm is not enough airflow...
If yes...how do I get more? Anyone know a better puller than the dual
electric fan I am using? It's the model 220 @
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-profile-electric.html

All input appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 22:06:26 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Flexalite fan

> I am assuming my 2500cfm is not enough airflow...
> If yes...how do I get more? Anyone know a better puller than the dual
> electric fan I am using? It's the model 220 @
> http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-profile-electric.html
> 

I like the looks of this...

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html

Kevin 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 14:58:16 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96  Silhouette?

> Are you comparing Mobil 1 vs. Rotella?


Not exactly. I came across some info from both Mobil corporate and Roger at
Myers' Garage indicating the Mobil 1 oil production for the last year was a
new blend. This new blend is supposed to work wonders in older engines.
Therefore, I tried a load in the '65 F-85's 330, the one that was damaged
from severe over-heating, and the engine actually improved over what the
Rotella and Restore additive did.

So, I put Mobil 1 in the Trans Sport's 3.4. There is now a real difference
in the 3.4 over using the Rotella. Don't get me wrong, for the Rotella was
quite good, indeed.

I will probably bite the bullet and continue to change oil and filter every
3000 miles, regardless. We don't really rack up that much mileage,
especially now with Mary in the hospital or nursing home since Christmas
Eve.


> One problem I might have with any oil, regardless whether it breaks down
by
> 3,000 miles or not, is that older engines with looser rings seem to suffer
> considerable fuel contamination of the oil by that mileage. EVERY TIME I
> change my Rotella from 2500 to 3500 miles, it STINKS of gas. Can't tell
> whether it's also thinned out but I can tell the oil gage becomes somewhat
> more active during the last 1000 miles or so.


I haven't noticed that problem.


> You've mentioned Wix oil filters as being the best available.


Not me. I talked about Baldwin filters and there being only 3-4 major filter
manufacturers left in the whole world, Baldwin being one of them. The
original GM trans filter in the Trans Sport was made by Baldwin.

The Baldwin long oil filter for an Olds V8 is a B-9.
The Baldwin long oil filter for the 3.4 in our Pontiac Trans Sport is a
B-35S.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 15:06:09 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

> Refresh my memory, Milton, please: Is this going to be just preventive
> maintenance (or "preventative" as the Bar's Leak bottle says, which is
> technically okay according to the dictionary but still strikes me as goofy
> because I've heard of "prevention" but not "preventation" and can you tell
> that the Starbucks has soaked in already this morning)? :-)


I don't know. All I can say is that I hope it works, because I can't afford
to fix the leak the correct way. It's that simple.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 15:27:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: High torque starter?

> The local Checker Auto Parts has the AC Delco solenoid #D981 in stock for
$25.99.


What's AC Delco solenoid D-969?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 22:42:04 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: RE: Flexalite fan

Yeah... Me too however its 4" deep and for another 1/2 deep I like this: 
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/monster-electric.html 





>>I like the looks of this...

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html

>>Kevin 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 23:59:46 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Flexalite fan

> However... I still find while in heavy driving, traffic etc... @ an idle
it
> can get up to 220degrees ....
> If I am driving 30 plus mph...no prob...it cools to about 190...
>
> I am assuming my 2500cfm is not enough airflow...


Yes, not enough airflow. I don't think any type of electric fan arrangement
can draw enough air through a radiator for proper cooling at under 25 MPH
with a V8 engine in a '60s-'70s vehicle.

I believe a large fan blade on a good fan clutch inside a complete radiator
shroud with the fan properly spaced front-to-rear and side-to-side is the
best cooling scheme.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4885
*********************************
