
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, March 11 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4813



Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
'72 Cutlass Supreme convertible for sale on ROP
RE: Intake Bolts and others
Re: Oddball engine in a 1967 98
RE: Intake Bolts and others
RE: WOW, a Ram Rod W-31 1968 442 !!!
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: Intake Bolts and others
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
transmission dipstick
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
RE: Protect-O-Plate decode
RE: Oddball engine in a 1967 98
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
paging "swanny"
Re: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
Re: paging "swanny"
Check Ball Bleeder Screws
Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws
Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws
Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws
Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
the shake is gone, was Check Ball Bleeder Screws
RE: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette
Re: WOW, a Ram Rod W-31 1968 442 !!!
Re: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:39:13 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

I would say you should start with loosing your brains.... I mean to put a
Chebby to an Olds...??!!
LOL,
Matt
>    people have asked me so I'm asking you, what is required to put a
> Chevy engine into an Olds?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 14:02:27 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: '72 Cutlass Supreme convertible for sale on ROP

Hi folks,

I saw this on realoldspower.com and thought I'd pass it along in case someone 
is looking for a '72 convertible. The car looks like it's in good condition, 
just needs seat covers and a top. Not bad for $7500.
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5846


Here's the info from the ROP posting:

> I thought I would give everyone here and at ROP a 
> chance for this car. Otherwise it goes on evil-bay. 
> This is my brother-in-laws car. Needs to sell it, to 
> many cars and no cash and needs no cars and mucho 
> cash. It is a '72 convertible. w/133,000 on the 
> original engine and tranny. Car has been parked in 
> garage for over 15 years but has been driven on nice 
> days. Never driven in the rain since he bought 5 yrs 
> ago. Could use some restoring, needs a new top. Have 
> extra factory hood w/ fake louvers. here are some 
> pics; 
> http://rocketattack.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/72cutlass.jpg 
> http://rocketattack.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/72cutlass1.jpg 
> http://rocketattack.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/72cutlass3.jpg 
> Can send more to interested party or parties. Serious 
> inquiries only. HE has $7500 tied up in it make us an 
> offer. This car is also being sold locally so don't delay if interested. Thanks


Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 14:10:35 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Intake Bolts and others

> Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 09:09:44 -0500
> From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Intake Bolts and others

snip
 
> You AZ guys, stockpile them fat washers.....
> - -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911

What about using thick Grade 8 washers? I got some from Ace Hardware 
to use under the bolts on my E-Brock Performer RPM intake manifold. 
Work great, but are kinda pricey as far as washers go.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 14:15:36 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Oddball engine in a 1967 98

> Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 09:50:07 -0500
> From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Oddball engine in a 1967 98
> 
> From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
> Subject: Re: Oddball engine in a 1967 98
> 
> Did the '67's have the VIN deriviative stamped on the block?
> ==============================
> No, BUT, they did indeed have an engine APPLICATION and unit 
> number stamp on the front of the RH head, which will probably 
> be G######__ for a 442 engine. 


snip


> - -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911

You sure about that, Chris? My '67 442 E-block engine has "V217039G" on the 
front of the LEFT head.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:28:43 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Intake Bolts and others

>What about using thick Grade 8 washers? I got some from Ace Hardware
>to use under the bolts on my E-Brock Performer RPM intake manifold.
>Work great, but are kinda pricey as far as washers go.

I hate to sound dense here but why would the _washers_ need to be Grade 8? I 
was under the impression that the Grade had something to do with tensile 
strength, so I know bolts and nuts might be different Grades, but washers? 
Their main concern would be crush-resistance; you wouldn't want a soft metal 
that would deform under load, presumably... Enlightenment welcome here.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Create a Job Alert on MSN Careers and enter for a chance to win $1000! 
http://msn.careerbuilder.com/promo/kaday.htm?siteid=CBMSN_1K&sc_extcmp=JS_JASweep_MSNHotm2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:32:48 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: WOW, a Ram Rod W-31 1968 442 !!!

>I sent the message about the VIN to the High Bidder.  I left out the part
>about the copyright stuff, just because the buyer probably could care less
>about where the wording came from, all he's going to care about is that the
>car is not what it says it is.

I know what you're saying, but I still think it would have been better to 
leave that in, since the seller (or broker, or whatever) is using that 
plagiarized material to make it look like they know what they're talking 
about, and that they're authoritatively declaring that car to be the genuine 
article. General consensus here, backed up by on-line references, says that 
it's not.

But thank you for getting that note to him and let us know if you hear 
anything in reply.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech 
Hacks & Scams. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/techsafety.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:07:40 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

I bought my '78 Cutlass from a one owner that came stock with a 305. But I
wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low mileage perfect
condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....My other '78 Cutlass
came with a V-6, and I switched that over to a rocket. I don't know. Am I
crazy?      :-)
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds


> I would say you should start with loosing your brains.... I mean to put a
> Chebby to an Olds...??!!
> LOL,
> Matt
> >    people have asked me so I'm asking you, what is required to put a
> > Chevy engine into an Olds?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 15:23:23 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Bolts and others

> I hate to sound dense here but why would the _washers_ need to be Grade 8?
I
> was under the impression that the Grade had something to do with tensile
> strength, so I know bolts and nuts might be different Grades, but washers?
> Their main concern would be crush-resistance; you wouldn't want a soft
metal
> that would deform under load, presumably...


That's exactly right. One way to increase strength is to use a higher grade
heat treat on the bolts and washers. That higher grade heat treat also makes
the steel alloy harder. That's usually the case with turning a grade 2 bolt
(no head marks and made with 1020 mild steel) into a grade 5 bolt (3 head
marks). In the case of a washer, the heat treatment will lessen deformation.
In addition, if the bolt manufacturer is a good one, he will also use a
little tougher steel alloy for anything getting the grade 8 heat treatment
and 6 head mark rating.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:08:47 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

At 03:26 PM 3/10/2004, you wrote:
>Hi,
>   people have asked me so I'm asking you, what is required to put a Chevy 
> engine into an Olds?  Conversely, if you buy an Olds with
>a Chevy engine what do you need to restore it to proper running
>order?
>
>   Mostly I'm interested in what they do with the engine mounts, do they
>change both the frame pads and the engine mounts or do Chebby mounts fit
>certain Olds frame pads?  Since the frame is generic, are the holes
>already drilled in the frame for  brand C pads?

The holes might be drilled, but you'd have to change the frame brackets, 
and obviously the engine-mounts.

>    I would assume (yes I know what the makes me :) the transmission
>should simply require the correct cross member location.

Once you bolt in a transmission with the proper Chevy bellhousing pattern.

>That leaves exhaust, and cooling plumbing.

And wiring, as the senders and starter are in different spots.

The radiators should work from one to the other, though the hoses would 
have to be different.

So, to recap, what you'd have to change:

* New tranny
* Wiring
* Exhaust
* Coolant lines
* Engine mounts

Other than that, it'll drop right in.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:49:16 -0500
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

Well Cliff the first thing would be a frontal lobotomy!!!!

Seriously, no clue on the frame mounts/pads would suspect that they are
different.

Tranny would need a different tranny the C type tranny doesn't have the same
bolt pattern as the BOP tranny.


Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:47:23 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: transmission dipstick

Marty
    A tubing or conduit bender (any electrician should have one) will 
let you custom bend that trans dipstick without damage.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:08:04 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> The holes might be drilled, but you'd have to change the frame brackets, 
> and obviously the engine-mounts.

OK.  So they would use Chevelle frame pads and Chevelle engine mounts I 
guess.

> Once you bolt in a transmission with the proper Chevy bellhousing pattern.

Doh!  Forgot about that.  Yes, need Chevy transmission.  I assume a 
Chevy TH350 would have the same rear mount as an BOP TH350.

> And wiring, as the senders and starter are in different spots.

True, some wiring.

> The radiators should work from one to the other, though the hoses would 
> have to be different.

Good point.

> So ... it'll drop right in.

With sufficient snippage it sounds so easy :)

Thanks for the info.
- -- 

After watching Ridez all week everything is starting to look a lot easier.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:33:47 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <oldsmagnet@oldsmagnet.com>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

> wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low mileage perfect
> condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....My other '78 Cutlass
> came with a V-6, and I switched that over to a rocket. I don't know. Am I
> crazy?      :-)

...well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?  (or... fix it until it 
~is~ broke ;))))  for some of us, the 305 alone is enough to be considerred 
broken, but I digress)

For all the threads around about switching V6 to Olds, or small Olds to Big 
Olds, or chevy to Olds, this is much along the same lines, ya gotta do all 
the same stuff (with exception to the relatively easy SBO to BBO swaps) -- 
and with all other swaps, it's sooo much more convenient to find an organ 
donor with compatible bloodlines, ie in this case a monte or malibu, and 
rob your brackets and trans from it.  Saves so much time when you don't 
have to hunt and stalk down parts.

Adding to our ever-growing list of req'd stuffs, new AC lines, if you're 
gonna retain your air conditioning.

- -- 
=/   http://oldsmagnet.com   \===========/         Oldsmobile        \=
|  mailto:442@oldsmagnet.com  |=========|         1897 -- 2004        |
=\ Charley Buehner Sidney MT /===========\      Shot In The Back     /=

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:58:33 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

>>Oldsmagnet  wrote<<

...well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?  (or... fix it until it
~is~ broke ;))))  for some of us, the 305 alone is enough to be considerred
broken,

I'll be the first to admit, since it is mine, a 305 is a dog! But the way
things are going today with alot of talk with emissions and such, not that
switching a motor will make a difference, I just wonder if keeping the car
all original would keep the value there when the car turns 30 years old and
40 years old, the cars that are already that old now, are what makes us all
appreciate all original cars period. Look at the ramrod thread with  "all
matching numbers"
Thanks
Pat.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Oldsmagnet" <oldsmagnet@oldsmagnet.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds


> > wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low mileage perfect
> > condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....My other '78
Cutlass
> > came with a V-6, and I switched that over to a rocket. I don't know. Am
I
> > crazy?      :-)
>
> ...well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?  (or... fix it until it
> ~is~ broke ;))))  for some of us, the 305 alone is enough to be
considerred
> broken, but I digress)
>
> For all the threads around about switching V6 to Olds, or small Olds to
Big
> Olds, or chevy to Olds, this is much along the same lines, ya gotta do all
> the same stuff (with exception to the relatively easy SBO to BBO swaps) --
> and with all other swaps, it's sooo much more convenient to find an organ
> donor with compatible bloodlines, ie in this case a monte or malibu, and
> rob your brackets and trans from it.  Saves so much time when you don't
> have to hunt and stalk down parts.
>
> Adding to our ever-growing list of req'd stuffs, new AC lines, if you're
> gonna retain your air conditioning.
>
> --
> =/   http://oldsmagnet.com   \===========/         Oldsmobile        \=
> |  mailto:442@oldsmagnet.com  |=========|         1897 -- 2004        |
> =\ Charley Buehner Sidney MT /===========\      Shot In The Back     /=
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:13:15 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

I'll make ya a good deal on a numbers matching, 2nd owner Grand Prix with a 
301 and cracked head : )  (I can't even give this car away!!!!)

M

At 04:07 PM 3/10/2004 -0500, swanny wrote:
>I bought my '78 Cutlass from a one owner that came stock with a 305. But I
>wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low mileage perfect
>condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....My other '78 Cutlass
>came with a V-6, and I switched that over to a rocket. I don't know. Am I
>crazy?      :-)
>Pat.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 01:21:35 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

At 07:58 PM 3/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I'll be the first to admit, since it is mine, a 305 is a dog! But the way
>things are going today with alot of talk with emissions and such, not that
>switching a motor will make a difference, I just wonder if keeping the car
>all original would keep the value there when the car turns 30 years old and
>40 years old, the cars that are already that old now, are what makes us all
>appreciate all original cars period. Look at the ramrod thread with  "all
>matching numbers"

If the car is in really good shape, then obviously, keeping it original
would help maintain and perhaps increase the value over time, if value is
what you're looking for.

But also, you can always store the stuff you swap outta it and enjoy it in
the meantime; a lotta folks do that. It's yer car and yer choice. If it
isn't enjoyable to drive but could become "valuable" in the future, then
park and store it and buy/build something you CAN enjoy. Or, swap decent
stuff into it, drive it like you stole it, and store the original stuff.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:34:57 -0500
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: Protect-O-Plate decode

Thanks, I know the VIN decode; I'm looking for a decode of the other
numbers:
 20-266       00009
Anyone?

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '99 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Cliff Simpson
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 12:26 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Protect-O-Plate decode
>
>
> 62oldsfan@comcast.net wrote:
> >
> >>3J67K2M223931
>
> If it's a 1972 then according to Drew:
> 3 = Oldsmobile Duh!
> J = (4200) Cutlass Supreme
> 67 = Convertible
> K = 350 4 bbl (L34)
> 2 = 1972
> M = Lansing
> 223931 = sequence number
>
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva/olds/vin/
>
> HTH
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:45:47 -0500
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: Oddball engine in a 1967 98

Okay, Ken & Chris:  The 442 engine unit number in '67 will be V2xxxxxG (no G
suffix on the Turnpike Cruiser 400)and the pad is on the front of the right
hand (aka passenger side).  Unless the heads have been removed and were
replaced on opposite sides, then it would be on the back of the left hand
(drivers) side.

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '99 Expedition (no-speed)



> > Did the '67's have the VIN deriviative stamped on the block?
> > ==============================
> > No, BUT, they did indeed have an engine APPLICATION and unit
> > number stamp on the front of the RH head, which will probably
> > be G######__ for a 442 engine.
>
>
> snip
>
>
> > - -----------------------
> > Chris Witt
> > 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> > Lansing MI 48911
>
> You sure about that, Chris? My '67 442 E-block engine has
> "V217039G" on the
> front of the LEFT head.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:56:12 -0300
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

quoting: .... But I  wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low
mileage perfect
> condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....
EVEN NOT A 455?
Maybe the 78 could fly with it, even if not number matching, which in case
of a 78 could be of little importance for the next 30 years or so... well,
just joking!
Had I a 305 ... a 350 would fit better even  if from the Ch brand...
rgds
Matt
Olds powered:
74CS 355
81CS 260
468ci looking better which every day - last: installed ARP main studes and
rod bolts... head bolts ready for the heads coming back from the machine
shop... :-)))) I will have to start to think about the Edelbrock
Rochester... will cost me over 700 dollars.. :-((((

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds


> I bought my '78 Cutlass from a one owner that came stock with a 305. But I
> wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low mileage perfect
> condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....My other '78 Cutlass
> came with a V-6, and I switched that over to a rocket. I don't know. Am I
> crazy?      :-)
> Pat.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 3:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds
>
>
> > I would say you should start with loosing your brains.... I mean to put
a
> > Chebby to an Olds...??!!
> > LOL,
> > Matt
> > >    people have asked me so I'm asking you, what is required to put a
> > > Chevy engine into an Olds?
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:21:15 EST
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette

- -------------------------------1078971675
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 3/10/2004 11:44:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
johnlholtsr@hotmail.com writes:
concur on your findings Milton. Had a 93 Lumina APV mini van with a 3.1 that 
had a leak right behind the front head, behind the distributor. Like a sieve, 
(very well put) how about a quart every couple hundred miles as I recall. I 
just kept putting oil in it till it blew the head gaskets, then I sold it for 
600$. At that point it had 220K miles and I wasnt about to spend any $ on it.
John
   GM had a major problem with those intakes. They were changing them for 
free but there was not a recall.


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

- -------------------------------1078971675
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 3/10/2004 11:44:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, johnlho=
ltsr@hotmail.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid">
<P><FONT face=3DArial>concur on your findings Milton. Had a 93 Lumina APV mi=
ni van with a 3.1 that had a leak&nbsp;right behind the front head, behind t=
he distributor. Like a sieve, (very well put) how about a quart every couple=
 hundred miles as I recall. I just kept putting oil in it till it blew the h=
ead gaskets, then&nbsp;I sold it for 600$. At that point it had 220K miles a=
nd I wasnt about to spend any $ on it.</FONT></P>
<DIV><STRONG><U><FONT face=3DArial>John</FONT></U></STRONG></DIV></BLOCKQUOT=
E></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; GM had a major problem with those intakes. They were chang=
ing them for free but there was not a recall.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Everett&nbsp;&nbsp; OCA# 1961&nbsp;&nbsp; 1961 Starfire</DIV></BODY></H=
TML>

- -------------------------------1078971675--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:32:14 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

Where do ya live?
Ship it to me, I'll take it.......I make money on those cars all day long.
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds


> I'll make ya a good deal on a numbers matching, 2nd owner Grand Prix with
a
> 301 and cracked head : )  (I can't even give this car away!!!!)
>
> M
>
> At 04:07 PM 3/10/2004 -0500, swanny wrote:
> >I bought my '78 Cutlass from a one owner that came stock with a 305. But
I
> >wouldn't put a rocket in the engine bay to change a low mileage perfect
> >condition , numbers matching, Cutlass for anything....My other '78
Cutlass
> >came with a V-6, and I switched that over to a rocket. I don't know. Am I
> >crazy?      :-)
> >Pat.
>
> Mark Mullins
> Tucson, Az
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:59:25 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: paging "swanny"

Need to know if thie email list "swanny" has bid on my G body shifter
If not, I get to cancel a bid I guess.
No pre-arrangement, ya know....
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here. 
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:46:23 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette

> To the List member who inquired about buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette,
>
> As much as it pains me to say this, ***don't buy the 2002 Olds Silhouette
> with 75,000 miles on it***,

> See the following E-mail I just sent to Pontiac Motor Division of GM for
> why:
>
>
> "Our 3.4 V6 engine in our '97 Pontiac Trans Sport had the intake gaskets


Well, I just got off the phone with a Pontiac customer service rep. She was
very sorry our warranty repair on the intake manifold gasket is failing, but
Pontiac isn't going to do anything about it. I'm back to my original
position. I'll stay with old Olds iron. It's reliable, fixable, and I can
trust it, implicitly. We'll patch the Trans Sport and drive her until she
drops. Then she goes to the 'yard. GM can't even build a 100,000 mile car
anymore.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 05:00:10 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

> For all the threads around about switching V6 to Olds, or small Olds to
Big
> Olds, or chevy to Olds, this is much along the same lines, ya gotta do all
> the same stuff (with exception to the relatively easy SBO to BBO swaps) --
> and with all other swaps, it's sooo much more convenient to find an organ
> donor with compatible bloodlines, ie in this case a monte or malibu, and
> rob your brackets and trans from it.

- -----------------

So true.


> Adding to our ever-growing list of req'd stuffs, new AC lines, if you're
> gonna retain your air conditioning.

- -----------

Not necessarily.  If you run the accessory layout from a serpentine belt
Chebby TBI engine (roughly '88-'93 at least in the B cars) the Olds lines
will work as the A/C compressor on these was mounted in roughly the same
location as on an Olds.  Painter I know used to have an '81 Cutlass that he
picked up with a dead 260 that had been set up this way with a Chebby 350 he
had from a wreck.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 07:23:51 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: paging "swanny"

Hi chris,
Yes this is the infamous "swanny" I guess you could say. I hope I didn't do
anything wrong! I did bid $5.00 on it. I am definitely interested. Is it
still available? e-mail me privately if you want.  swannys78@adelphia.net
Gotta take my husky to the vet this morn to have stitches removed should be
back aroun 11 am.
Thanks.
Pat  "swanny"



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 11:59 PM
Subject: paging "swanny"


> Need to know if thie email list "swanny" has bid on my G body shifter
> If not, I get to cancel a bid I guess.
> No pre-arrangement, ya know....
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
> http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:04:53 -0500
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: Check Ball Bleeder Screws

Browsing the OPG catalog for Interior parts for my '69 Cutlass I came across
an interesting item.  It was advertised as a way to bleed your brakes with
ONE person.  Not a vacuum pump (that never really removes all of the air in
the system), but a one way "check valve" Bleeder screw.  Anyone ever try
these?  Sounds like a great concept and talk about convenience!

Thanks,
Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 11:17:57 -0300
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws

Works fine, good stuff... i have them from Russel via Summit
Rgds
Matt

> Browsing the OPG catalog for Interior parts for my '69 Cutlass I came
across
> an interesting item.  It was advertised as a way to bleed your brakes with
> ONE person.  Not a vacuum pump (that never really removes all of the air
in
> the system), but a one way "check valve" Bleeder screw.  Anyone ever try
> these?  Sounds like a great concept and talk about convenience!
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Bejma
> Harrison Twp., MI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:45:57 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws

   me too, have them on the cutlass. got them from NAPA
john
67 cutlass supreme
the shake is gone!!!  yahoo


Subject: Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws


> Works fine, good stuff... i have them from Russel via Summit
> Rgds
> Matt
>
> > Browsing the OPG catalog for Interior parts for my '69 Cutlass I came
> across
> > an interesting item.  It was advertised as a way to bleed your brakes
with
> > ONE person.  Not a vacuum pump (that never really removes all of the air

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:51:39 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws

Hey John,

            The shake is gone ??????
extrapolate please ...............

The General

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws


>    me too, have them on the cutlass. got them from NAPA
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme
> the shake is gone!!!  yahoo
>
>
> Subject: Re: Check Ball Bleeder Screws
>
>
> > Works fine, good stuff... i have them from Russel via Summit
> > Rgds
> > Matt
> >
> > > Browsing the OPG catalog for Interior parts for my '69 Cutlass I came
> > across
> > > an interesting item.  It was advertised as a way to bleed your brakes
> with
> > > ONE person.  Not a vacuum pump (that never really removes all of the
air
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:40:55 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dumb Q of the day, how to put Chebby into an Olds

- --part1_108.2d0278b6.2d81e287_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 3/10/04 12:50:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
writes:

> Hi,
>   people have asked me so I'm asking you, what is required to put a 
> Chevy engine into an Olds?  Conversely, if you buy an Olds with
> a Chevy engine what do you need to restore it to proper running
> order?
> 
>   Mostly I'm interested in what they do with the engine mounts, do they
> change both the frame pads and the engine mounts or do Chebby mounts fit
> certain Olds frame pads?  Since the frame is generic, are the holes
> already drilled in the frame for  brand C pads?

Cliff, List,
       Don't ask me how I know this, but here it goes: The frame mounts and 
motor mounts do need to be changed if a Chevy engine is to be mounted in an 
Olds.  They are also specific to the engine, as a 454 frame mount differs from 
the small block versions.  Not certain if the motor mounts are the same for SB 
and BB, but I do know that Chevy motor mounts can be found anywhere, in 
urethane no less, and even in different colors!  The stock holes in the frame will 
line up with either version's frame mounts.  The transmission needs to have the 
Chevy engine bolt pattern, or an adapter.  Hoses need to be rerouted, due to 
different mounting locations, and the wiring will need to be changed to 
accommodate sensors and the starter, most of which end up in different locations.  
Other than that, it's a drop in procedure.  Headers fit nicely, exhaust hits the 
same holes, same radiator works.  
Steve D

- --part1_108.2d0278b6.2d81e287_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 3/10/04 12:50:22=
 PM Pacific Standard Time, csimpson@ucalgary.ca<BR>
writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi,<BR>
&nbsp; people have asked me so I'm asking you, what is required to put a <BR=
>
Chevy engine into an Olds?&nbsp; Conversely, if you buy an Olds with<BR>
a Chevy engine what do you need to restore it to proper running<BR>
order?<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp; Mostly I'm interested in what they do with the engine mounts, do they=
<BR>
change both the frame pads and the engine mounts or do Chebby mounts fit<BR>
certain Olds frame pads?&nbsp; Since the frame is generic, are the holes<BR>
already drilled in the frame for&nbsp; brand C pads?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Cliff, List,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Don't ask me how I know this, but here=20=
it goes: The frame mounts and motor mounts do need to be changed if a Chevy=20=
engine is to be mounted in an Olds.&nbsp; They are also specific to the engi=
ne, as a 454 frame mount differs from the small block versions.&nbsp; Not ce=
rtain if the motor mounts are the same for SB and BB, but I do know that Che=
vy motor mounts can be found anywhere, in urethane no less, and even in diff=
erent colors!&nbsp; The stock holes in the frame will line up with either ve=
rsion's frame mounts.&nbsp; The transmission needs to have the Chevy engine=20=
bolt pattern, or an adapter.&nbsp; Hoses need to be rerouted, due to differe=
nt mounting locations, and the wiring will need to be changed to accommodate=
 sensors and the starter, most of which end up in different locations.&nbsp;=
 Other than that, it's a drop in procedure.&nbsp; Headers fit nicely, exhaus=
t hits the same holes, same radiator works.&nbsp; <BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_108.2d0278b6.2d81e287_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 08:52:20 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: the shake is gone, was Check Ball Bleeder Screws

> the shake is gone!!!  yahoo


So, what was it?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:56:49 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette

Milton,

>GM can't even build a 100,000 mile car
>anymore.

I think its fair to say that the aluminum V6's may be characterized as
poorly designed. I too LOVE my Olds stuff, but I'm compelled to stick up
for my '96 Caprice 9c1 - at 215,000 km it remains a solid car.  Nice
chassis for a big car, with 17" rims the roll centre isn't TOO bad.
With regard to longevity and reliability, my main point and experience
is that the drivetrain is about as tough as anything out there.  I
suppose Fred N. could add something to the stats on warranty work on
this platform.

Ian Dixon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:21:02 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: WOW, a Ram Rod W-31 1968 442 !!!

>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464099361&category=15287

Hey, one other thing about this car...

(AUDIENCE: Oh, jeez, Andy; give it a rest already...)

I'm looking at the twin-snorkel air intake as shown in this photo:

http://rmcarsonline.com/vehicles/200403/00001/00018.jpg

Is that driver's side hose even _connected_ to anything? Isn't that 
air-cleaner housing supposed to have two identical snorkels on it at 4:00 
o'clock and 8 o'clock? I can see only a passenger's-side snorkel in those 
photos, yet this is supposed to be all-original.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 11:29:23 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: buying a 2002 Olds Silhouette

I'm compelled to stick up
> for my '96 Caprice 9c1 - at 215,000 km it remains a solid car.  Nice
> chassis for a big car, with 17" rims the roll centre isn't TOO bad.
> With regard to longevity and reliability, my main point and experience
> is that the drivetrain is about as tough as anything out there.  I
> suppose Fred N. could add something to the stats on warranty work on
> this platform.

- ----------------------

Other than the idiotic Opitspark, these are pretty bulletproof.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4813
*********************************
