
oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, March 30 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4835



71 350 Rebuild progress
Re: Pushrods
Re: Pushrods
RE: Pushrods
Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?
Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!
shifter linkage
RE: Petronix coil question
Dyno Follow Up
More carb tuning.
Gas prices, gas theft?
RE: More carb tuning.
Re: shifter linkage
Re: Yikes Evil site 
Re: Choke conversion
Rollin' in my Cutty
FS: Old GM Calendars 
Re: shifter linkage
RE: Hurst shifter rebuild
Effects of milling an intake manifold?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 23:01:14 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 71 350 Rebuild progress

Oh, man
At long last
Dropped the engine in the car today
Had to load the crane in the truck myself, go to enigne site.
Finish HEI assembly, install it
Load engine on stand into truck, then place crane in behind it, then unload 
at the house.

After that it went pretty smoothly.
Spent the morning getting the wiring and such details in the engine 
compartment squared away, to the car was read for the engine when I got it 
here.

It looks marvelous. Trans bolted right up, no worries. Got Motor Mounts 
snugged, propeller shaft in place. So far the 2bbl throttle cable looks like 
it might work. If not, have to modify to suit.

Need to get the HEI and choke wired in, and fix the rest of the underhood 
semi-rectal setups [main feed to car's harness not run thru Fusible Link, 
etc.]

Could live and breathe within a few days now.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet 
access. 
https://broadband.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 22:08:34 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Pushrods

> Ummm...  how come?


Because I knew the engine needed a 1.75" exhaust valve. In 1970, the only
way to get it was to use a small block Chevy valve. Ansen made a SBC
stainless steel 1.75" exhaust. I then used manley stainless steel 2.02" SBC
intakes. Since the valve were 1/4" longer, i had to adhust the valve
geometry accordingly.


> And what'd you do about valve springs?


Use a very concave valve spring retainer and a thick valve spring shim on
the bottom to get the correct spring height.


 How about the
> studs: stock Olds length or are those lengthened, too?


Big Block Chevy 7/16" with hex stop. The Harlan Sharp rocker arms are 1.6
ratio small block Ford for 7/16" studs.


> RA IV pushrods were just 5/16"??? I woulda sworn my RA III pushrods were
> 3/8", but maybe not....


I kept the 5/16" pushrods from the first 482. They're still pristine. I
could use them in another engine by sending them to Smith Brothers and have
them shortened to the correct length.


> Did you weld a bridge to join the PR plates and keep them from rotating,
> since each half only had one bolt hole?


No, no. Pontiac Ram Air IV guide plates are 2 to a head. The first 2
cylinders are ganged together and the last 2 cylinders are ganged together.
The spacing between the cylinders is different from an Olds. So the twined
plate has to be cut in two to give one whole plate set for each cylinder.
The valve spacing is slightly different, which splays the rocker arms
slightly outward on each valve pair. That's not good, but it's the only
thing we had back in 1970.


> I'm rather surprised; 5/16" PRs were considered a no-no for ANY Poncho
> revved over 5000, and especially with a cam. Of course, it took some work
> to get a Poncho to live above 5000 to begin with.


Sorry, but those Ram Air IV pushrod guide plates were definitely for 5/16"
pushrods.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 22:21:19 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Pushrods

> I'm going to take a pushrod out to see exactly whats in it.  I cant find
> the paperwork I received when ordering them.
> Thanks guys, when I figure out exactly whats going on in there I'll get
> back to you and figure out if I should just replace the broken pushrod
> or do a whole set to prevent this from happening again.


Actually, I don't want to preach, but...the pushrod is one of the key
elements of an engine. If it breaks, all Hell can break loose.

They are many people who make pushrods. Many cam companies try to save a
buck and make their own pushrods. However, the smart ones subcontract to
Smith Brothers.

Smith Brothers Pushrods have been around for many decades and make a pushrod
that is unbeatable.

http://www.pushrods.net/

I would use a checking pushrod from anybody to get the correct length, then
order the pushrods direct from Smith Brothers. That way, you will know that
you have purchased the highest quality pushrod for your application. You
will know the end won't break off.

I've never seen a Smith Brothers pushrod fail. At the speedshop, that's all
we recommended to our customers.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 01:10:03 -0500
From: "Christian Sager" <chris.sager@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Pushrods

Thanks a bunch for the advice.  I may just order a whole new set from
these guys!

Christian

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Infinite Space
Systems, Inc.
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 12:21 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Pushrods

> I'm going to take a pushrod out to see exactly whats in it.  I cant
find
> the paperwork I received when ordering them.
> Thanks guys, when I figure out exactly whats going on in there I'll
get
> back to you and figure out if I should just replace the broken pushrod
> or do a whole set to prevent this from happening again.


Actually, I don't want to preach, but...the pushrod is one of the key
elements of an engine. If it breaks, all Hell can break loose.

They are many people who make pushrods. Many cam companies try to save a
buck and make their own pushrods. However, the smart ones subcontract to
Smith Brothers.

Smith Brothers Pushrods have been around for many decades and make a
pushrod
that is unbeatable.

http://www.pushrods.net/

I would use a checking pushrod from anybody to get the correct length,
then
order the pushrods direct from Smith Brothers. That way, you will know
that
you have purchased the highest quality pushrod for your application. You
will know the end won't break off.

I've never seen a Smith Brothers pushrod fail. At the speedshop, that's
all
we recommended to our customers.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 22:55:14 -0800
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?

Yeah that's what I thought (that's how it was in the Mustang I restored) -
but there is nothing to "hook" to. There are tabs are punched out to make
space for the hooks (you're right there are 3) and the seat hangs on those
fine. Maybe I need to get a seatback from a different source than Year One?

- ------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 12:48:11 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?

The divider and pad hooks on the 3 hooks (I think it's 3) the rear seat back
hooks onto. The rear seat back holds everything in place. That's the way it
worked on my '65 F-85.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 12:37 PM
Subject: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?


> I'm reassembling the interior of my 65 442, and I can't figure out how to
> "mount" the rear trunk divider. I know that the jute padding is attached
> with adhesive. But there is no way I can see to keep the divider from
> falling down. The old one was deteriorated when I took it off and I can't
> see how it stays up. I don't recall and screw holes or anything?
>
> Thanks for your help!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 08:01:32 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!

There was a good article in Car Craft a few months ago (November '03) about
the differences in HP between and engine dyno and chassis dyno.  Basically
there is a 15-20% loss of HP due to mechanical use of power through the
transmission and rear axle and different exhaust systems used on the engine
dyno and what you have on your car.

A chasis dyno will give you your real HP at the wheels which i think is a
more appropriate number. And like you said, you can real world tune your
vehicle on the chasis dyno. If you get JWO, check out the March issue. I
wrote an article about the Eastern Mass GMO Club bringing a few of our
Oldses to a chasis dyno back in October.

It's real learning experience, and very humbling, too. We had 5 cars attend
and four of us were running similar setups. But there was still a differnce
of about 100 hp between my 455 which had the least amount of HP and the best
setup of almost 270 rear wheel HP.

I've got alot of tuning to do!

Bill Reilly

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>

> > What was the cost of the day @ the dyno?  If the cost isn't too great I
may
> > do this to my 455 before I drop it into the chassis.
> >
>
> I've always wondered if it wouldn't be better to use a chassis style dyno
after installation. I guess mainly because I'm
> not certain how much (if any) the tuning needs will vary once installed.
Does anyone have any experience on this?
>
> Kevin
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 06:45:50 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: shifter linkage

Over the weekend, my shifter linkage became quite stiff to operate and often seemed to stick or jam. Upon investigation
I found that the clip that locks the shifter cable to the bracket on the side of the transmission is missing.

Does anyone have one they can sell me, or know of a good source for these parts.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 09:21:15 -0600
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Petronix coil question

Yes, it's ok to run this way.  Yes you could potentially get better performance by replacing it.  

This was my solution.  I bought a junk yard wiring harness for a few bucks.  It was mostly trashed but I just wanted some wires out of it.   I pushed one of the wires out of the firewall connector and used it to replace the resistor wire.  This kept me from cutting and splicing the existing one.  Cutting and splicing is probably the more common solution.

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: ChazToone@aol.com [mailto:ChazToone@aol.com]
 > Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:55 PM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Petronix coil question
 > 
 > 
 > Hi again,
 > 
 > Such a nice day in Jersey, time to work on the Olds.  I 
 > installed a Petronix 
 > coil (1.5 ohm).  I already did the points swap and have been 
 > happy with it, so 
 > why not a coil too.  Hooked it up OK, but the directions 
 > talk about removing 
 > an external resistor, if any.  You check the voltage between 
 > the coil positive 
 > and ground and if less than 12 volts  "remove the resistor". 
 >   The CSM wiring 
 > diagram shows a resistor wire (Black with pink), not a 
 > separate resistor you 
 > could short out.  I ended up hooking it up as it was, a 
 > solid black wire and a 
 > yellow (white?) wire, both of which went to the same crimp 
 > terminal, and then 
 > to the coil positive.  The car started right up and ran like 
 > charm.  Here's 
 > the question:  is it OK to use it this way?  Would I get 
 > better spark if I 
 > replaced the resisor wire with a new, low resitance wire?  
 > What have others done?
 > 
 > Thanks,
 > 
 > Charlie Toone
 > OCA Member# 22915
 > 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
 > 1972 H/O (w/sunroof)  - for a short while
 > 1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
 > ChazToone@aol.com
 > http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 10:23:14 -0500
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Dyno Follow Up

The cost of the dyno day is $675. That includes set up, tuning,
adjustments, gas, and minor repairs. I brought my own oil and filters.
If you want to swap out major parts like intakes and cams, that is
priced separately. The key here is that you can see the biggest
potential problems on any new engine start up: air/fuel ratio and
ignition timing. The Q-jet that I used was a Mondello modified version
supposedly calibrated for a bigger cam and other modifications. The carb
was SUPER lean, so much so that I probably would have burnt a valve or
cracked a piston!!!! The dyno guy saw that immediately and took the
proper precautions so no damage was done. And, if the ignition timing is
too advanced, then the lean condition is much worse. So, the value
gained here is you can catch any issues before the engine goes in the
car, and it is all broken in and ready to go.

I didn't want to spend a weekend swapping engines and then find a
problem that would force me to take the engine out again.

Money well spent, especially if the engine is modified!

I have some digital pictures if you want them. PM me at
ptumolo@comcast.net

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 09:27:24 -0600
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: More carb tuning.

Well I got rid of my bog this weekend, but I'm not sure I like the way I did it.  My final fix was leaving the rods and hanger alone, and adjust the valve spring wrap to 3/4 of a turn.  Previously I had this adjusted to 1/8 to 1/4 turn.  

I have AX rods so I'm already on the rich end.  It is sounding to me, like I have a vacuum leak that is requiring the secondaries to stay choked until the motor spins up a little.

Does this make sense?

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 11:28:49 -0500
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Gas prices, gas theft?

I thought this was an interesting pair of articles . . .

I mean, I'd already noticed that gas prices have broken their previous
highs, without the excuse of the summer squeeze (yet), but the article that
went along with this was kind of interesting, and threw me a bit....

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4620022/

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4614229/


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 08:26:24 -0800
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: More carb tuning.

Mike
The qjet wrap spring adjustment is completely o.k., it is one of the key
points of adjustability within the design.

It's worth a check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and
especially at the primary throttle rod bushing points. I'm guessing it's a
bad way to do it, but the old carb cleaner squirt can reveal leaks in these
areas. 

Remember that the qjet uses engine vacuum as the key indicator of engine
demand. To the qjet high vacuum = low demand and low vacuum = high demand,
thus leaks may make your qjet think it needs to dump in more gas. 

Anybody wanna comment on the right way to check for vacuum leaks?

Cheers,
cf 



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Mike Schlottman
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 7:27 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: More carb tuning.


Well I got rid of my bog this weekend, but I'm not sure I like the way I did
it.  My final fix was leaving the rods and hanger alone, and adjust the
valve spring wrap to 3/4 of a turn.  Previously I had this adjusted to 1/8
to 1/4 turn.  

I have AX rods so I'm already on the rich end.  It is sounding to me, like I
have a vacuum leak that is requiring the secondaries to stay choked until
the motor spins up a little.

Does this make sense?

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 12:06:38 -0500
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: shifter linkage

A brake hose retaining clip is the same ...........

The General
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 9:45 AM
Subject: shifter linkage


> Over the weekend, my shifter linkage became quite stiff to operate and
often seemed to stick or jam. Upon investigation
> I found that the clip that locks the shifter cable to the bracket on the
side of the transmission is missing.
>
> Does anyone have one they can sell me, or know of a good source for these
parts.
>
> Kevin
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 11:50:00 -0500
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: Yikes Evil site 

Hi all,

This is a good time to come out of lurk mode.  This car is very close to me.
I haven't looked at it but I know that company has a rep for nice clean
cars.
If someone has interest in it, I am willing to help anyway I can.

Really nice car but $55k?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2468933409&category=15287



Joe Walters
73 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 12:32:06 -0800 (PST)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Choke conversion

- --- André_Meijers <Andre_Meijers@wxs.nl> wrote:
> I'm planning to convert the choke on my Rochester
> Qudrajet from hot-air to
> an electrical one.
> 
> Where to find any info about this or how to do it?
> Shouldn't be that difficult, just need to find the
> parts.
> 
> André
> 
> '74 Cutlass Salon
***************

I ordered a choke unit for a 1985 Chevy truck. It is
electric and fits perfectly on an Olds carb as long as
its a Qjet from 1970 or later.




=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:53:06 -0500
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: Rollin' in my Cutty

I saw this on the traffic choked 3 hour, 6 mile ride from Daytona
International Speedway to my hotel on the beach.  I just had to share it
with the list, for it is too good to keep all to myself.  If the owner of
this is on the list, come clean.

http://www.geocities.com/rld96bbb/daytona04.htm

Disclaimers:
(1)  Sorry for the crappy phone cam quality of the pix.  I used what I had
handy.
(2)  I apologize in advance if some of you attempt to access the page and
my bandwidth limit has already been exceeded.  That has happened when I've
posted links in the past -- the bw limit and the annoying ad (which can
easily be minimized) are drawbacks of free hosting, but I don't use it
enough to pay for it ;)

Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv.
some other stuff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 18:01:18 -0500
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: FS: Old GM Calendars 

Hi Guys,   
    Would anybody be interested in a bunch of older GM Parts and GM 
Classic Cars wall calendars? There is a complete set from 1992 to 2002 
plus a bunch of duplicates and a few non GM car calendars. There is 27 
calendars in all. How's $20 shipped via Media Mail in the US sound? If 
you are not in the US you would have to add shipping onto that but I 
would deduct the Media Mail amount from that.
Let me know if interested,
Thanks,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 17:32:26 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: shifter linkage

> A brake hose retaining clip is the same ...........
> 

Cool Thanks! I knew I'd seen them before but couldn't remember where.

Kevin 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 21:47:21 -0500
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: Hurst shifter rebuild

Here's the scoop:
http://go.mrgasket.com/FAQHurstShifters.aspx?BrandID=2

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kurt [mailto:wmachine@shubes.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:42 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: A New Olds in the Family!
>
>
> You can send any Hurst shifter to Mr. Gasket (who now owns Hurst)
> and they will rebuild it.  I don't know current prices.
>
> Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
> http://wmachines.shubes.net
> '65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb,
> 4-speed)
> '67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
> '92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '99 Expedition (no-speed)
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Eric Beaupre
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:21 AM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: RE: A New Olds in the Family!
> >
> >
> > The main reason I'm considering changing it out is because the
> > current owner
> > is throwing a Muncie M-21 4-speed in with the deal.  Also, he says the
> > original 3-speed shifter that is in the car now doesn't work
> the best.  I
> > figure I can take my time and rebuild the Muncie and swap it when
> > I'm ready.
> >
> > I'm sure the 3-speed is rare as production numbers only list 90 3-speeds
> > built in 65 and I'm guessing a good portion of those were "on-the-tree".
> >
> > --
> > Eric Beaupre
> >
> > Engineering
> > eServ LLC
> > 8200 N Allen Rd
> > Peoria, IL 61615
> > ofc: 309-691-4957 X1034
> > fax: 309-691-4960
> > cel: 309-453-3895
> > eml: ebeaupre@eserv.biz
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dave Wyatt
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 8:17 AM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: RE: A New Olds in the Family!
> >
> >
> > Congratulations Eric, that's a nice looking car.
> >
> > I wouldn't be in a big hurry to replace that three speed.  If
> it's a Ford
> > piece, it's a heavier built unit than the GM built Saginaws of the day,
> > that's why they used them.  Plus you have the somewhat rare 3
> > speed console,
> > which is way cool in my warped mind.  Keep it like it is for a while and
> > enjoy the car for what it is.  Later you can make changes if
> you feel like
> > it.
> >
> >
> > Dave Wyatt
> > 70  4-4-2
> > 67 Vista Cruiser
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
> > >Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > >Subject: A New Olds in the Family!
> > >Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 18:45:21 -0600
> > >
> > >I'm officially in the club!  I just "won" this car.  Thanks
> for answering
> > >all of my questions about the tranny.  If that 3-speed is indeed a F*rd
> > >unit
> > >I may have to drop in the M-21 that that comes with the car :)
> > >
> >
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2467656015
> >Any ideas on how to get it from San Francisco, CA to Peoria, IL :)  I'll
> >probably take a flight out with a buddy Friday night and make a
> weekend out
> >of it.  Nobody is by chance driving an empty car trailer eastbound across
> >country are they?
> >
> >I look forward to sharing all that is good and Olds with you guys in the
> >future.  Right now I need to go grab a celebratory beer.
> >
> >Cheers!
> >--
> >Eric Beaupre
> >
> >Engineering
> >eServ LLC
> >8200 N Allen Rd
> >Peoria, IL 61615
> >ofc: 309-691-4957 X1034
> >fax: 309-691-4960
> >cel: 309-453-3895
> >eml: ebeaupre@eserv.biz
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 20:09:29 -0800
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Effects of milling an intake manifold?

I purchased and installed an Edelbrock Performer 455 manifold for my 1965
442. Come to find out, it's not going to fit under my hood. I measured the
difference between the Edelbrock and stock and I'm going to have to have
15mm milled off the intake for it to fit. Modifying the hood is not an
option.

Anyone know if I should be worried about milling an intake that much? What
would the performance difference be? I still like the manifold and the
weight savings is worth it but I don't want to damage anything.

Thanks!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4835
*********************************
