
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, March 28 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4834



Dyno'ed my 455 Today!
Re: 67 442 Headliner trim retainer
Dash questions
Petronix coil question
Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!
coil resistance wire
Re: 67 442 Headliner trim retainer
RE: Pushrods
RE: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!
Intrigue Questions
UNBOUNCE: spare parts in oldsmoble-88 1956
Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!
Frame-side Olds enmgine mount for 1978 Cutlass needed
RE: Pushrods
Re: Pushrods
How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?
Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?
Re: Rallye Pack Tachometer Calibration?
Re: Pushrods
RE: Pushrods

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 17:00:34 -0500
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!

I spent the day at SD Concepts Engineering in Warwick, Rhode Island
today to dyno my freshly built 455: 

http://www.sd-concepts.com/index.htm 

I have built many engines before, but I have never had one on a dyno
before. This is absolutley the best way to not only break in a new
engine, but you can dial in the cam, valves, carb, ignition, and seat
the rings. And, any leak or other issues can be fixed on the spot. 

What I found most interesting is the ability to adjust the timing and
fuel curve to get absolute maximum power. The dyno records all kinds of
data, and gives a lot of great information. 

I will have pictures and results to post tomorrow. 

I used an Engle 20-22 cam. It was degreed and installed strait up. The
engine had 18" of vacuum at idle!!!!! There were some folks that told me
that this cam has very low idle vacuum..... 

BTW, my engine had 45 foot pounds and 35 more HP than a stock W30 engine
before tuning......  

The Challenger on the website has 1200 HP from a supercharged BB engine.
Runs 8.60s at 165 MPH and is street driven!!!!!!!!!!!
It is the owners car.

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 soon to have a dyno'ed engine
OCA # 31967 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 19:20:32 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: 67 442 Headliner trim retainer

Steve,
I believe that is referred to as "windlace".  Check your favorite parts 
supplier for it.

M

At 02:25 PM 3/27/2004 -0500, Steve Bicker wrote:
>Hi All,
>I read this list all the time but have not posted in while. Most questions
>are answered before I can help.
>I am getting ready to finish installing the headliner in the 67 442 I am
>finishing and ran into a snag. This car had no headliner in it when I bought
>it 15 years ago. There must be a retainer strip of metal on the front top of
>the windshield area and one around the back window area top and sides. This
>strip is wear the finish moulding clips around (like a door edge guard clips
>on a door) after the headliner is glued to it. I looked at my other 67 442
>but with the headliner in place its hard to tell what it looks like. Does
>anyone have a 66-67 2 dr hardtop parts car that they would be willing to
>sell these parts and the retainers that hold them in place to me? I imagine
>these parts don't go bad and don't know why they were removed other than the
>roof was caved in pretty good at one time. I would really appreciate some
>help on this. Thanks a lot
>Steve Bicker

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 21:43:42 EST
From: ChazToone@aol.com
Subject: Dash questions

Hi all,

Two dash related questions, both on my '71 Cutlass Supreme.  

#1.  How do you replace the ashtray lid?  My original has had the metal 
separate from the plastic.  I've found a replacement, but can't figure out how to 
gently remove the old one.  It looks like there are springs of some sort over 
each "pin".  I hope there is some trick to pop it out.  

#2  How do you change the head light switch?  My original is a little flaky.  
I have a new one, and tried today by removing the left hand guage cluster, 
but I can't get but one finger on it.  I can see on the new one how it's 
oriented, and where the release is for the shaft.  I also tried to look from under 
the dash, but with the A/C in place I can't see anything.  Any ideas?

Thanks,

Charlie Toone
OCA Member# 22915
1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
1972 H/O (w/sunroof)  - for a short while
1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
ChazToone@aol.com
http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 21:54:55 EST
From: ChazToone@aol.com
Subject: Petronix coil question

Hi again,

Such a nice day in Jersey, time to work on the Olds.  I installed a Petronix 
coil (1.5 ohm).  I already did the points swap and have been happy with it, so 
why not a coil too.  Hooked it up OK, but the directions talk about removing 
an external resistor, if any.  You check the voltage between the coil positive 
and ground and if less than 12 volts  "remove the resistor".   The CSM wiring 
diagram shows a resistor wire (Black with pink), not a separate resistor you 
could short out.  I ended up hooking it up as it was, a solid black wire and a 
yellow (white?) wire, both of which went to the same crimp terminal, and then 
to the coil positive.  The car started right up and ran like charm.  Here's 
the question:  is it OK to use it this way?  Would I get better spark if I 
replaced the resisor wire with a new, low resitance wire?  What have others done?

Thanks,

Charlie Toone
OCA Member# 22915
1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
1972 H/O (w/sunroof)  - for a short while
1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
ChazToone@aol.com
http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 23:17:32 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!

At 05:00 PM 3/27/04 -0500, you wrote:
>I spent the day at SD Concepts Engineering in Warwick, Rhode Island
>today to dyno my freshly built 455:
>
>http://www.sd-concepts.com/index.htm

Geez, right by me here in Providence! :)

Do they do the tuning, or do they just run the dyno and let you make all 
the adjustments?

Do they do machine-work as well? I've been looking for a good place.
________________________________________
Bob Barry           mailto://rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 01:31:14 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: coil resistance wire

(snip)Would I get better spark if I
replaced the resisor wire with a new, low resitance wire?
Charlie
   I have never messed with a petronix so you are on your own there. 
Oldsmobile does in fact use a resistor wire for the original ignition In 
my experience the resistance factor does not run all the way to the 
ignition switch but only to the firewall. You will have to get into the 
harness that far back to replace the wire with something lower in 
resistance to get the full 12 volts to the new ignition
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 08:29:40 -0500
From: "Stephen Bicker" <sbicker@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 67 442 Headliner trim retainer

Mark,
         This is not the windlace or front and rear finish mouldings. These
are metal (I believe) and this is what you wrap the headliner around in the
front and rear and then you push the finish mouldings over. I have the
reprodution front piece and 3 piece rear finish mouldings. I know this a odd
piece to need as they would never go bad but someone must have removed it at
some point before I bought it. I also think any 67 "A" body 2dr ht would
work.
Thanks
Steve Bicker
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: 67 442 Headliner trim retainer


> Steve,
> I believe that is referred to as "windlace".  Check your favorite parts
> supplier for it.
>
> M
>
> At 02:25 PM 3/27/2004 -0500, Steve Bicker wrote:
> >Hi All,
> >I read this list all the time but have not posted in while. Most
questions
> >are answered before I can help.
> >I am getting ready to finish installing the headliner in the 67 442 I am
> >finishing and ran into a snag. This car had no headliner in it when I
bought
> >it 15 years ago. There must be a retainer strip of metal on the front top
of
> >the windshield area and one around the back window area top and sides.
This
> >strip is wear the finish moulding clips around (like a door edge guard
clips
> >on a door) after the headliner is glued to it. I looked at my other 67
442
> >but with the headliner in place its hard to tell what it looks like. Does
> >anyone have a 66-67 2 dr hardtop parts car that they would be willing to
> >sell these parts and the retainers that hold them in place to me? I
imagine
> >these parts don't go bad and don't know why they were removed other than
the
> >roof was caved in pretty good at one time. I would really appreciate some
> >help on this. Thanks a lot
> >Steve Bicker
>
> Mark Mullins
> Tucson, Az
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 08:41:27 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Pushrods

All,

> Christian,
> 
> > The pushrod only had 1200 miles on it and was the fancy kind that's 
> > the tube with the balls welded on the end.
> >
> > Anyone else have any weird experiences with pushrods like 
> this?  Any 
> > Advice?
> 
> 
> I regret to say this, but that style of pushrod is *not* the 
> fancy kind. A pushrod with pivot balls welded onto the ends 
> is a low-cost OEM design. The good pushrods have ends that 
> have a actual shank that goes inside the pushrod tube. The 
> ends are a press-on fit. The ends aren't going anywhere.
> That's the only reliable way to get a long hardened end to 
> run inside the groove of a pushrod guide plate.
> 
> You may have used something like Crane's Energizer 
> Performance Pushrods
> http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=
> 97 , which are inferior to Crane's Chromemoly Steel Pushrods
> http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=3&prt=95 .
> 
> Look at http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Products/Pushrods/ 
> and notice the different types of ends for pushrods. The 
> pressed in pushrod end is always far superior to the welded 
> ball, which can break off, just like what happened to you.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com

Speaking of pushrods.....I'm getting ready to use my adjustable pushrod and
get the appropriate length pushrod set for my 455 this week.

I have noticed some folks using the .375" Dia. Pushrods, as opposed to the
STD .312" Dia. Pushrods.

I seem to recall Milton writing that he used the .375 Dia. Pushrods without
any problems.  Is this correct Milton?

Also is the increased diameter of the pushrod more advantageous over STD
even though you are increasing the weight of the valve train assembly?

Thoughts?

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 08:48:07 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!

Paul,

> I spent the day at SD Concepts Engineering in Warwick, Rhode 
> Island today to dyno my freshly built 455: 
> 
> http://www.sd-concepts.com/index.htm 
> 
> I have built many engines before, but I have never had one on 
> a dyno before. This is absolutley the best way to not only 
> break in a new engine, but you can dial in the cam, valves, 
> carb, ignition, and seat the rings. And, any leak or other 
> issues can be fixed on the spot. 
> 
> What I found most interesting is the ability to adjust the 
> timing and fuel curve to get absolute maximum power. The dyno 
> records all kinds of data, and gives a lot of great information. 
> 
> I will have pictures and results to post tomorrow. 
> 
> I used an Engle 20-22 cam. It was degreed and installed 
> strait up. The engine had 18" of vacuum at idle!!!!! There 
> were some folks that told me that this cam has very low idle 
> vacuum..... 
> 
> BTW, my engine had 45 foot pounds and 35 more HP than a stock 
> W30 engine before tuning......  
> 
> The Challenger on the website has 1200 HP from a supercharged 
> BB engine.
> Runs 8.60s at 165 MPH and is street driven!!!!!!!!!!!
> It is the owners car.
> 
> Paul Tumolo
> 1970 442 soon to have a dyno'ed engine
> OCA # 31967

That sounds way to cool.  I'm eager to read your results.  I have the same
camshaft installed in my 455, and am actually getting closer to having it on
the road this year, now that I've got an unexpected vacation ;)

Please tell us what adjustments you made to the engine while on site.

What was the cost of the day @ the dyno?  If the cost isn't too great I may
do this to my 455 before I drop it into the chassis.

Thanks,

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:04:59 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Intrigue Questions

I know a few of us here have Intrigues, so I thought I'd pose a few
comments and questions....

I've had my 2002 GX since August and have been very pleased with it. It
killed me to have to drive it every day through this terrible winter we've
had, but it survived it well and now that spring is starting to show signs
of arriving it will soon get the salt stains shampooed out of the rugs and
get a wax job. I've had absolutely zero issues with the car so far.

I was wondering if anyone here has a Final 500 edition? I've never even
seen one in the flesh and would love to get a set of those 17" chrome
Aurora wheels for mine someday. I check Ebay regularly with no success so
far.

My car (a GX) has the pewter interior. I know in 2002 the GLS pewter
interior had brushed-metal accents on the inside. Again, I've never seen
one with that. Any idea whether a few of those pieces would be something
feasible to retrofit? I assume I could order them still from GM. So far my
accessory purchases have been limited to logo'ed splash guards and vinyl
floor mats to supplement the Final 500 version mats I bought earlier. 

An interesting note for fellow Canadian Intrigue owners: yesterday I went
to Canadian Tire to pick up an air filter for mine. I was surprised to see
that they listed one part for 3.5L engines up to 2001, but a different one
for 2002 models. I had the parts counter guy fetch both to compare. Turns
out the earlier one (Motomaster brand) is identical to the 2002 listing (a
Fram) except for the rubber perimeter, which is black on the former and
Fram orange on the latter. The price for the Fram is twice as much as the
house brand. Everything else is identical including the size. I bought the
cheaper one. :) 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:08:57 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: spare parts in oldsmoble-88 1956

Not on the list, respond to grimurg@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "Grimur Gunnarsson" <grimurg@hotmail.com>
Subject: spare parts in oldsmoble-88 1956

hello,
I have Oldsmoble-88 Holeday 1956, hardtop and I need waterpump and some 
others spare parts and I are lokeded in Iceland.  I was wondering if you can 
help me to find it.  please send me mail as son as you can.
Have nice day,

Grímur K Gunnarsson
grimurg@hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 07:53:19 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!

>
> What was the cost of the day @ the dyno?  If the cost isn't too great I may
> do this to my 455 before I drop it into the chassis.
>

I've always wondered if it wouldn't be better to use a chassis style dyno after installation. I guess mainly because I'm
not certain how much (if any) the tuning needs will vary once installed. Does anyone have any experience on this?

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:25:37 -0500
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@earthlink.net>
Subject: Frame-side Olds enmgine mount for 1978 Cutlass needed

Hey gang - been away for a while (had 2 neck surgeries in the last 
several months) but am getting better and getting anxious to work on the 
cars again.

In the interim I picked up a 1978 Cutlass Supreme in running condition 
(needing a little TLC) with title for $500 and have gotten it tuned up 
and registered.  Car came with Turbo 350 trans which works good (except 
seems to slip out of gear occasionally when car is at a dead stop - 
seems better since I reset idle speed and timing).  I'm thinking of 
trying a complete changeover to B&M fluid and a shift kit, and possibly 
throw in either the 10" or 11" torque converter I have in the garage.

The Buick 231 v6 is running ok after some tuning up, but I really want 
to put the 403 back together and drop it in the car.  The v6 just does 
not have the sound or power that I like in a G-body chassis.  The 403 
should bolt right up to the trans and this will be a perfect time to 
change the torque converter (probably go with the 11" with the 403), and 
I have the radiator fan shroud and other misc pieces needed, except for 
the frame side of the engine mount for the Olds engine.  Oh.... and I 
will also need a set of Olds small block power steering brackets (the 
existing pump works great), or an entire pump with Olds style brackets - 
also need the attaching hardware with studs, nuts and that spacer that 
goes on the front stud..  This is the older style pump with flare 
fittings, not the newer o-ring sealed style.  The power steering 
brackets and/or pump should not be a big deal to get from the local 
salvage yard if needed, but am still under "light duty" orders from the 
surgeon and figured it would be a lot easier to make a contribution to 
someone's parts fund in exchange for the parts I need.

Write me directly at ecker567@comcast.net if you have any/all of the 
above items.

Michael Ecker

P.S. - bet I missed many great discussions over the last few months....  
oh well, it feels great to be back!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:40:04 -0500
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Pushrods

Christian, just curious - what kind of rotating assembly 
(crank/connecting rods/pistons) and cam are you running in that 403?

How high do you normally rev it?

I have often heard that 403's should not be revved above 5000-5500 
without significant mods - just wondering how yours is set up as it 
appears to be holding up so far (except for the pushrods).

As far as pushrods, I have always been a fan of 0.080" walled chromemoly 
one piece pushrods.  They are manufactured from a chromemoly tube and 
the ends are formed rounded to the the lifter and pushrod cup.  They are 
also available with hardened ends for guide plates.  I have always 
favored these because being a one piece design means they cannot come 
apart - worst case is they might break but that is very unlikely (there 
are thinner walled chromemoly pushrods out there which can be an issue 
depending on spring pressure, but the 0.080" walled tubing should be 
more than enough for anything you might throw at them).  I have heard of 
the pushrods with the pressed in ends failing due to the outer pushrod 
tube splitting where the end is pressed into it, allowing the end to 
cock and tear out of the pushrod.  Again, unlikely this would happen 
with your application but if you are going with custom length pushrods 
anyway why not just get the chromemoly ones and not have to worry about 
them.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:53:29 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Pushrods

> I seem to recall Milton writing that he used the .375 Dia. Pushrods
without
> any problems.  Is this correct Milton?


Yes, with the correct pushrod guide plates, they dropped right in. I've
heard some people claim the pushrod holes in the heads need to be drilled
larger, but I sure don't remember having to do that. My valve train sits
1/4" higher than normal, because I used longer small block Chevy valves, and
still don't remember any problem do to geometry redefinition.

I'm not going to stake anything on the notion I didn't have to drill the
heads, because I don't recollect it, so double check, anyway.


> Also is the increased diameter of the pushrod more advantageous over STD
> even though you are increasing the weight of the valve train assembly?


The reason I switched was because of the engine's ability to rev extremely
quick. Let me explain.

When her first engine was built, the first 482, specifically built pushrod
guide plates weren't available in 1970. However, it was found that Pontiac
Ram Air IV pushrod guide plates would work, more or less, on an Olds by
cutting the twin paired plate in two to make separate pairs of guides for
each cylinder. Those plates on a Pontiac were for 5/16" pushrods, so that's
what I used.

When I ate the first crank on that 482 engine by revving the engine way too
high (shifting at 7500 and taking her to 8300 once) and got the CrankShaft
company Dyna-Rev modified Olds forged steel crank in '73, I decided to
switch to 3/8" pushrods for safety. There were 2 main reasons. First, if the
Dyna-Rev worked as advertised, she would wind up much quicker, potentially
creating more instantaneous load on the pushrods. Second, Mondello had just
come out with pushrod guide plates that fit an Olds correctly for both 5/16"
and 3/8" pushrods. I went bigger is better.

The second engine did wind up quicker, but now my walking cylinder wall
problem above 5500 really showed up. A 0.125" overbore just wasn't hacking
it with the very heavy Ansen pistons. So, that's when Thunder's third
engine, her 468, was born, with the ultra-lightweight BRC pistons. Now, her
engine even wrapped up faster than the second 482. I believe the 3/8"
pushrods were a good investment for strength, eliminating any nagging
worries in the back of my mind as to valve train strength.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:37:30 -0800
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?

I'm reassembling the interior of my 65 442, and I can't figure out how to
"mount" the rear trunk divider. I know that the jute padding is attached
with adhesive. But there is no way I can see to keep the divider from
falling down. The old one was deteriorated when I took it off and I can't
see how it stays up. I don't recall and screw holes or anything?

Thanks for your help!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 12:48:11 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?

The divider and pad hooks on the 3 hooks (I think it's 3) the rear seat back
hooks onto. The rear seat back holds everything in place. That's the way it
worked on my '65 F-85.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 12:37 PM
Subject: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?


> I'm reassembling the interior of my 65 442, and I can't figure out how to
> "mount" the rear trunk divider. I know that the jute padding is attached
> with adhesive. But there is no way I can see to keep the divider from
> falling down. The old one was deteriorated when I took it off and I can't
> see how it stays up. I don't recall and screw holes or anything?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 15:44:23 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Rallye Pack Tachometer Calibration?

  clock doc
  advertises in hemmings 
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Friday, March 26, 2004 4:41 PM
  Subject: Re: Rallye Pack Tachometer Calibration?


  > Steve Reed wrote:
  > 
  > > All,
  > > Who repairs and calibrates the rallye pack gauge sets?  I've got to
  > > get the clock working in mine, and should have the tachometer calibrated,
  > > and the speedometer as well.
  > > 
  > > Thanks!
  > > 
  > > 
  > > Steve Reed
  > > '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
  > > '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
  > > '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
  > > Austin, TX
  > > http://www.sreed.0catch.com 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > > 
  > Steve
  >     Try clocksandgauges.com They did really nice reasonably priced work 
  > for me
  > John Kelsey
  > Dayton Ohio
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 01:32:28
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Pushrods

At 11:53 AM 3/28/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Yes, with the correct pushrod guide plates, they dropped right in. I've
>heard some people claim the pushrod holes in the heads need to be drilled
>larger, but I sure don't remember having to do that. My valve train sits
>1/4" higher than normal, because I used longer small block Chevy valves, and
>still don't remember any problem do to geometry redefinition.

Ummm...  how come? And what'd you do about valve springs? How about the
studs: stock Olds length or are those lengthened, too?

Longer valves would reduce the "swipe" movement of the rocker tip across
the valve stems, too, a good thing. It would also reduce the rocking of the
pushrod back and forth in the head. Of course, 1/4" extra over a 8"+
pushrod isn't a whole lot but that could have made the difference in not
having to drill the pushrod holes larger.

>When her first engine was built, the first 482, specifically built pushrod
>guide plates weren't available in 1970. However, it was found that Pontiac
>Ram Air IV pushrod guide plates would work, more or less, on an Olds by
>cutting the twin paired plate in two to make separate pairs of guides for
>each cylinder. Those plates on a Pontiac were for 5/16" pushrods, so that's
>what I used.

RA IV pushrods were just 5/16"??? I woulda sworn my RA III pushrods were
3/8", but maybe not....

Did you weld a bridge to join the PR plates and keep them from rotating,
since each half only had one bolt hole?

>(shifting at 7500 and taking her to 8300 once)

DAMB, that musta been sweet music  :o))))))))))))))

>I believe the 3/8" pushrods were a good investment for strength, 
>eliminating any nagging worries in the back of my mind as to valve 
>train strength.

I'm rather surprised; 5/16" PRs were considered a no-no for ANY Poncho
revved over 5000, and especially with a cam. Of course, it took some work
to get a Poncho to live above 5000 to begin with.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 17:52:46 -0500
From: "Christian Sager" <chris.sager@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Pushrods

The current rev-limiter is set to 6000 RPMs on the MSD Digital-6.

The bottom end has a forged 330 crank, 403 stock rods resized w/ ARP
bolts, and TRW forged .040 pistons.  The bearing caps have also been
modified to install the stud kit from Mondello.

I'm going to take a pushrod out to see exactly whats in it.  I cant find
the paperwork I received when ordering them.

I think part of the problem may be exactly what Milton was discussing,
the 403 revs extremely quickly for a 6.7L engine (Very short stroke,
with a very large bore).

Thanks guys, when I figure out exactly whats going on in there I'll get
back to you and figure out if I should just replace the broken pushrod
or do a whole set to prevent this from happening again.

Christian

P.S.  Looks like I should break 400HP and 475ft/lbs with the new
ignition, how exciting is that?!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Michael Ecker
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 11:40 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Pushrods

Christian, just curious - what kind of rotating assembly 
(crank/connecting rods/pistons) and cam are you running in that 403?

How high do you normally rev it?

I have often heard that 403's should not be revved above 5000-5500 
without significant mods - just wondering how yours is set up as it 
appears to be holding up so far (except for the pushrods).

As far as pushrods, I have always been a fan of 0.080" walled chromemoly

one piece pushrods.  They are manufactured from a chromemoly tube and 
the ends are formed rounded to the the lifter and pushrod cup.  They are

also available with hardened ends for guide plates.  I have always 
favored these because being a one piece design means they cannot come 
apart - worst case is they might break but that is very unlikely (there 
are thinner walled chromemoly pushrods out there which can be an issue 
depending on spring pressure, but the 0.080" walled tubing should be 
more than enough for anything you might throw at them).  I have heard of

the pushrods with the pressed in ends failing due to the outer pushrod 
tube splitting where the end is pressed into it, allowing the end to 
cock and tear out of the pushrod.  Again, unlikely this would happen 
with your application but if you are going with custom length pushrods 
anyway why not just get the chromemoly ones and not have to worry about 
them.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4834
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