
oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 6 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4847



Re: Is this a 455?
Re: Is this a 455?
Re: Broke An A-Arm today... 
Re: Broke An A-Arm - More
Re: Is this a 455?
Re: RE HALON and prevention of truth decay
Re: Control Arm Shims.
Re: Is this a 455?
Re: Is this a 455?
Re: Longest owned Olds
Re: Longest owned Olds
Re: Re: Is my Olds 307 beyond repair??(long)
Re: lower console
Re: Broke An A-Arm - More
Re: Longest owned Olds
RE: Global West Install [was:  Broke An A-Arm - More]
Re: long time owners....
Re: long time owners....
Re: long time owners
Re: Is this a 455?
RE: question re W30 with mishmash IFW's
Off = Off now
Re: Off = Off now
Re: lower console
RE: Control Arm Shims.
RE: '70 SX convert
RE: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: Control Arm Shims.
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
More on BBO Bronze
Re: lower console
Re: Re: Is my Olds 307 beyond repair??(long)
Re: long time owners
Re: long time owners....
Re: Control Arm Shims.
Re: Longest owned Olds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 21:06:40 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

Maybe it is C heads, I can't make it out.

Do you have use for the truck after you pull the olds content? It looks 
pretty far gone (rust!!!!). Are you going to junk it? One may find a cheap 
drivetrain in the yarde to swap in, but it may not be worth the hassle...

Anywhere in the country those model chevy trucks are pretty popular. 
Independantly, a truck that is good for work, if it drives reliably, it is 
worth a grand.

I'd try $600-1k, but only if the engine runs well and the transmission 
isn't a th350. I'd check compression to be sure. Easy to come by!

A non J head 455 core is hard to come by for under $500 these days. Keep 
that in mind when shopping...

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 00:05:19 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

Greg,

Where might this truck be located?  I own one like it (minus the better 
engine you have there) and might be interested in the car-cass after you're 
finished with it.

The paint had me thinking 425, but the heads don't match up.  Definitely Olds 
power!

I'd be especially interested in seeing how they "crafted" the engine and 
transmission into the truck.  Does it have leaf or coil springs in the back?

I'm in no hurry, this is just something that could yield parts for my project 
- -- and it's not going to happen anytime soon.

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 00:18:58 -0400
From: AnTiCr0mBi@aol.com
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... 

Yeah, there's a huge design flaw in those control arms, it's happened to me twice. Both times was at an extreme as far as suspension movement. Going in reverse, uphill, and turning the wheels all the way to the right. I guess it was just too much weight and stress on the arms. They broke (both times it was the passenger side lower) very close to the ball joint. And the arms look like they had been cracked before the major break. It's scary, and whenever I go through my suspension, I'm welding and re-enforcing the hell out of those arms.

- -Eric Anderson
1964 Cutlass
http://www.angelfire.com/retro/ericskars

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 00:31:58 EDT
From: ChazToone@aol.com
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More

I'm planning a lower control arm rebuild and so far found a loaded NOS right 
side arm (anyone have a left side?), along with an offer for old ones..  In 
the process I've been searching e*vil and there was one guy selling "NEW" arms 
for 68-72 A bodies.  When I asked if these were GM NOS arms, he admitted these 
were after markets, but new.  I think the Buy-it-now was $125, but don't quote 
me. They were bare, no bushings or ball joints.

Has anyone seen or bought any?  Any other sources?  Are they as good as NOS?  
Would this be a better option than cleaning and re-using an old set of arms, 
even if not NOS?  I like to drive the car and the thought of losing an arm 
scares the heck out of me.  As always, all help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Charlie Toone
OCA Member# 22915
1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
1972 H/O (w/sunroof) - for a short while
1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
ChazToone@aol.com
http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 21:32:44 -0700
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

Hi Ken,

I'm in Vancouver, BC so I might be a tad too far away. :-) That said, the 
carcass will likely be sold in bits on Ebay if there aren't any buyers 
locally. Assuming I end up the buyer that is.

If I get another chance to scope it out, I'll check out the underside a 
little more.

'Best,

Nanook

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 22:15:53 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: RE HALON and prevention of truth decay

That I didn't know. Interesting...high risk to get the most effective method
to extinguish a fire instantly. At the speed shop in the '70s, we started
selling some of the first HALON systems for race cars. In my 5 years at the
speed shop, HALON systems we sold installed in race cars saved 3 drivers by
instantly extinguishing the gasoline fire started by one circle track crash
and the nitro-methane fires started by 2 AA/Fuel dragsters grenading their
engines.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <james.zito@ps.ge.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 4:48 PM
Subject: RE HALON and prevention of truth decay


> Tried to send this from my other mailbox the other day but it didn't seem
to
> go.
>
>
> HALON   DOES NOT  work by displacing oxygen.  CO2 works this way.
>
> HALON disrupts the chemistry that is causing the combustion by bonding
with
> the free radicals that normally bond with oxygen, resulting in combustion.
>
> HALON that hasn't encountered high temperatures is NON-TOXIC.  I know many
> people that have been involved in accidental HALON releases during main
> space fire protection system maintenance on USN ships that have survived.
> The only danger is that you might fall over something due to the fogging
> effect immediately following the release.
>
> HALON that has been exposed to high temperatures (about 400-600 'F) breaks
> down into Fluorine and Bromine gases.  These gasses are highly toxic and
are
> the reason for un-protected firefighters in confined spaces becoming
rapidly
> dead.
>
>
> Jim
> 69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 22:26:29 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Control Arm Shims.

Kevin,


> The front end on my car developed a severe clunk in it today. Upon
inspection it appears the shims (I think there were
> 4) on the back bolt of the upper control arm, somehow came dislodged. Only
one remains. I've never seen this happen.


Yeah, I've seen it happen. It's caused by a sloppy mechanic who didn't
recheck the nut torque when he tightened down everything after aligning the
front end. In Missoura, it never happened, because of the exceptional
quality of my 2 friends who did my front end alignments. In Tucson over the
past 25 years, it's happened twice, and I never took my vehicle back to that
nicompoop.

I've also had the nut fall off and lost the large flat washer for the new
rear bushing from the upper control arm cross shaft because someone who
installed it didn't tighten the nut properly. Happened with one of the
idiots from above.


> Do you think a wheel alignment is all that is needed, or could there be
something else I missed that may have caused
> this?


Yes. Just have the front end realigned at a different, and hopefully better,
alignment shop.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 01:52:45 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

At 09:06 PM 4/5/04 -0700, you wrote:
>Maybe it is C heads, I can't make it out.

That's what I was thinking; the red paint looks almost factory (it 
certainly doesn't look repainted), which would be right for a big-car 455 
from '68-'69.

>Do you have use for the truck after you pull the olds content? It looks 
>pretty far gone (rust!!!!). Are you going to junk it? One may find a cheap 
>drivetrain in the yarde to swap in, but it may not be worth the hassle...

You call THAT rust???

Man, around here that would be billed as "good solid body, may need paint".

Seriously. :)

________________________________________
Bob Barry           mailto://rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 23:26:00 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

Greg,

According to the Olds FAQ, it's a '70-'72 455.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tjosvold" <tjosvold@polar7.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 7:47 PM
Subject: Is this a 455?


> Hi Gang,
>
> Can someone have a look at the engine at:
>
> http://www.car-diaries.com/oldsmotron/story/20040405DonorTruck/
>
> and verify that it is an Olds 455? It's currently in a pickup and I may
> pick up the truck cheap as a temporary driver with the idea of
> transplanting the motor into Oldsmotron at a later date.
>
> 'Best,
>
> Greg
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 02:39:57 -0400
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
Subject: Re: Longest owned Olds

I think I missed the original thread on this, but I have to put my 2 cents in.  In 1971, I traded my first car (1967 Cutlass) in for a 1971 Cutlass S, waited what seemed to be forever for it to be delivered.  I remember looking through the dealers doors after hours when it finally arrived.  Matador Red, with a white vinyl top and interior.  I still have that car, although it is being restored now.  34 years and still a 1 owner.  While I'm working on that, I bought a sister car, a 1970 Cutlass Conv. Rally red with a white top and interior.  Pretty easy to get attached to these Oldsmobiles, isn't it.....  Ron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 00:15:13 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Longest owned Olds

When I first joined the List 3 years ago, my first impression was that I was
an anachronism because I had owned Thunder since 1968, while most people
seemed to hang onto their Olds cars only a few years and then got something
else. After awhile, I came to realize that a few more people than I thought
had kept their Olds cars. With this thread, I see that a lot more people on
this list have stayed true and kept their one special Olds for many, many
years.

That is very good.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Roncutlass@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: Longest owned Olds


> I think I missed the original thread on this, but I have to put my 2 cents
in.  In 1971, I traded my first car (1967 Cutlass) in for a 1971 Cutlass S,
waited what seemed to be forever for it to be delivered.  I remember looking
through the dealers doors after hours when it finally arrived.  Matador Red,
with a white vinyl top and interior.  I still have that car, although it is
being restored now.  34 years and still a 1 owner.  While I'm working on
that, I bought a sister car, a 1970 Cutlass Conv. Rally red with a white top
and interior.  Pretty easy to get attached to these Oldsmobiles, isn't
it.....  Ron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 7:14:51 +0000
From: <frantok@charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Is my Olds 307 beyond repair??(long)

Steve:

I am located approximately 1 mile off the W. Rosedale exit from I-30 Eastbound; that's  in West Fort Worth in the 76110 Zip.

GREAT NEWS ON THE OLDS!!!--
Last night I started toolin' around in the wagon (couldn't fire him up, figured eeh why not?), sorting through old tire receipts in the glovebox, throwing away recyclable trash from McDonalds and the like, and to my amazement I found a muffler ticket for a muffler that seemed to have been installed by the Original Owner back in 95' (technically the Prior Owner was a friend of his; he only drove/owned the wagon for a good 20K). On this ticket was the full name of the O.O., his home address and Phone ###.....well what I did next was deliciously logical lol...

It was only about 8:15 in the evenin' so I dialed the old ### listed on this muffler receipt, expecting them to have since changed their ###; well fortunately they didn't and I spoke to the Owner's wife. Gave her a preci' on the fiasco with the carb(s) and she (REAL shocker here) gave me the Monday-Friday ### to her husbands auto shop!!! She assured me that he could tell me anything I'd ever want to know about the wagon, and could possibly have it fixed with the care and respect that others wouldn't render. (aaaaaah yes such relief ;=)

...here we are today and by 3:00PM Tuesday afternoon he should be aaaaall nursed back to full 8-cylinder health...Guess what the REAL problem was all along??...an old leaky fuel pump!!! That's what has caused the crappy gas mileage, the gas smell, the uneven idling and all the rest of that malarky. Turns out there never was any problems with the carb, much less a "leaky intake".

When me and the wife came to visit him at his shop yesterday (this of course, after paying $60 for 15 mi. to a Wrecker just to get it there--thanx to the incompetence of someone who just didn't care), he actually spent a good 15 minutes of company time discussing how he rebuilt the FACTORY Q-Jet on that wagon, and what a shame it was that the original carb for that car had now been lost (in his opinion, probably a sounder piece of machinery than some after-market copycat). He then said he'd look at the car and could tell me by evening the $$$ and to what extent that last moron screwed things up to...and now of course ($300 later for CORRECT calibration of that carb + a fuel pump), I know that though He endured a few battle scars, He's NOT beyond repair, He's NOT scrap-pile for the Yardie, and He IS still a fine American Olds.

Another Olds Saved,
John M. Beach
Fort Worth, Texas 76110

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 06:37:49 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: lower console

- --part1_1d1.1dcdfeaa.2da3e27d_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 4/5/04 9:06:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
ledbetter@adams.net
writes:

> i am looking for the lower part of the console for a 72 olds cutlass
> automatic can anyone tell me where i might find one.  thanks  charlie
> 
Hi Charlie,
       I have several consoles that I could use as donors for this part.  Hit 
me privatley off list,
Steve D



- --part1_1d1.1dcdfeaa.2da3e27d_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 4/5/04 9:06:36 P=
M Pacific Daylight Time, ledbetter@adams.net</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000"=20=
BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 PTSIZE=3D12 FA=
MILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" BACK=3D"#ffffff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR:=20=
#ffffff" SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"=
>writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">i am looking for the lower part=
 of the console for a 72 olds cutlass<BR>
automatic can anyone tell me where i might find one.&nbsp; thanks&nbsp; char=
lie<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
Hi Charlie,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have several consoles that I could us=
e as donors for this part.&nbsp; Hit me privatley off list,<BR>
Steve D<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 07:34:36 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More

Hi all,

Charlie,

I don't know about those arms you are talking about. Did he say if they were
thicker guage than stock?
I wouldn't have a problem using good used arms, but I would weld a plate in
for reinforcement if you want to be safe, or have your used ones magnafluxed
at a minimum.
As for other sources, the aftermarket has nice tubular arms$$$.

Later,

Joe Walters
73 H/O




- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ChazToone@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 12:31 AM
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More


> I'm planning a lower control arm rebuild and so far found a loaded NOS
right
> side arm (anyone have a left side?), along with an offer for old ones..
In
> the process I've been searching e*vil and there was one guy selling "NEW"
arms
> for 68-72 A bodies.  When I asked if these were GM NOS arms, he admitted
these
> were after markets, but new.  I think the Buy-it-now was $125, but don't
quote
> me. They were bare, no bushings or ball joints.
>
> Has anyone seen or bought any?  Any other sources?  Are they as good as
NOS?
> Would this be a better option than cleaning and re-using an old set of
arms,
> even if not NOS?  I like to drive the car and the thought of losing an arm
> scares the heck out of me.  As always, all help is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Toone
> OCA Member# 22915
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> 1972 H/O (w/sunroof) - for a short while
> 1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
> ChazToone@aol.com
> http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 05:31:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Longest owned Olds

- -- "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
wrote:
> When I first joined the List 3 years ago, my first
> impression was that I was
> an anachronism because I had owned Thunder since
> 1968, while most people
> seemed to hang onto their Olds cars only a few years
> and then got something
> else. After awhile, I came to realize that a few
> more people than I thought
> had kept their Olds cars. With this thread, I see
> that a lot more people on
> this list have stayed true and kept their one
> special Olds for many, many
> years.
> 
> That is very good.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Roncutlass@aol.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 11:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Longest owned Olds
> 
> 
> > I think I missed the original thread on this, but
> I have to put my 2 cents
> in.  In 1971, I traded my first car (1967 Cutlass)
> in for a 1971 Cutlass S,
> waited what seemed to be forever for it to be
> delivered.  I remember looking
> through the dealers doors after hours when it
> finally arrived.  Matador Red,
> with a white vinyl top and interior.  I still have
> that car, although it is
> being restored now.  34 years and still a 1 owner. 
> While I'm working on
> that, I bought a sister car, a 1970 Cutlass Conv.
> Rally red with a white top
> and interior.  Pretty easy to get attached to these
> Oldsmobiles, isn't
> it.....  Ron
> 
***************************

I have had my 72 W-30 convertible and one of my 69
Cutlasses since 1981!

Most of my other Oldes have been around for 5 or 6
years, maybe longer..

Tempus Fugit!

http://jspajak.tripod.com/mycars.htm
http://jspajak.tripod.com/misc.htm



=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 08:43:39 -0400 
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: Global West Install [was:  Broke An A-Arm - More]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 73H/O OLDSRIP [mailto:jtmwalt@netsync.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 7:35 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Charlie,

[snip]

> As for other sources, the aftermarket has nice tubular arms$$$.
> 
> Later,
> 
> Joe Walters
> 73 H/O

Was looking through the Global West website yesterday
(http://www.globalwest.net/) and noticed that they've dropped their prices
on Upper and Lower Tubular Arms to $995 for the set.  I think I paid about
$1,300 last year (still think they were worth it).

I just started the installation of these arms, lowered spindles and disk
brake kit.  I haven't been able to complete it due to not having enough
weight in the front to compress the springs.  My "warmed up" 350 is being
assembled and cam broken in at M&J Performance http://www.mjproformance.com/
so no engine weight to help compress the spring.  I can't use a spring
compressor due to the tight fit of the spring in the coil over kit.  Also, I
remember the debate on the list a few years ago about tightening the
suspension when the car is weighted down, on the wheels and plan to do all
of the torquing after engine install.

Very, very high quality arms and with all the talk of breaking arms, I'm
definitely glad I went the Global West route - especially on a convertible.
I am impressed with the high quality of these parts.  Arms were completely
assembled, bushings pre-lubed and fit is perfect.  Highly recommended.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 08:44:18 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: long time owners....

I've had the 70 4-4-2 since October 1973.



Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

_________________________________________________________________
Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Multiple plans available. 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 10:15:03 -0400 
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: Re: long time owners....

Dad bought my 69 442 new for my mom.

Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 10:15:33 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: long time owners

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Thanks for the kudos Tami. Not sure about Homecoming...depends upon some 
other items.
                                                Ron Forsee
                                                65-442 Old Fart

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Thanks for the kudos Tami. Not sure=
 about Homecoming...depends upon some other items.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
Ron Forsee<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
65-442 Old Fart</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 11:56:36 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

At 03:39 AM 04/06/2004 +0000, SteveH wrote:
>>Hi Gang,
>>
>>Can someone have a look at the engine at:
>>
>>http://www.car-diaries.com/oldsmotron/story/20040405DonorTruck/
>>
>>and verify that it is an Olds 455? 

>The 396021F that's said to be the "head
>ID" is actually the block ID, located right behind the water pump, looking
>down. The large serif "F" indicates '70-'72 block according to the FAQ.


With, specifically, 1971 G heads.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 11:53:45 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: question re W30 with mishmash IFW's

Hello Chris
  I have a question on a W-30 car?   Would you change
the 1 fender well if it came from the factory with one
red and 1 black, both are plastic?  This guy  (young kid)
ordered it new and came this way and the dealer said I
will undercoat the wheel wells for nothing and you won't
know it.
Thanks   Bob
==============

Bob, I cc'd this to the Olds Email List, see what they think....

I take it this is a 70-72 car, with no holes for the OAI hoses?

Bob, that would be a great, wonderful conversation/ argument starter. I 
would keep it as it left the factory... IF you can get some documentation. 
Preferably, lots of documentation. Sworn signed notarized affidavits, 
videotaped interviews, etc. For example: First owner. Dealer rep who said 
they would be glad to just spray the red one black [presumably they were not 
going to spray the black one red]. Salesman, if he was involved. Any letters 
to/from factory/ dealer concerning the issue and the fixing thereof.

I woulb be pretty PO'd to have 1 or 1/2 or 0 red fender liners on my brand 
new W30- it's one of the things that MAKES a W30.

If a  young kid ordered it, in say 1970, he must be like 55 yrs old now, 
right, still around? Dealer employees might be traceable thru anywho.com if 
you can get their names.

w/o SOME documentation, it's just another "story". With documentation, it 
can become a legend. Of course you can make both red, and lose the legend 
forever. I would stick to as it came... especially if you can get a least 
one good document to verify that it was delivered that way.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 12:17:04 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Off = Off now

OK, 'twas the BROWN wire at the VReg

Put in a diode, 100V 1amp, bar toward regulator, such that juice can flow 
into VReg but not out at terminal #4.

Voila'

On= on, Off= Off.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 09:34:47 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Off = Off now

That's the same thing one has to do when a MSD ignition box is installed.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:17 AM
Subject: Off = Off now


> OK, 'twas the BROWN wire at the VReg
>
> Put in a diode, 100V 1amp, bar toward regulator, such that juice can flow
> into VReg but not out at terminal #4.
>
> Voila'
>
> On= on, Off= Off.
>
> -----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE!
> http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 09:22:22 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: lower console

> Hi Charlie,
>        I have several consoles that I could use as donors for this part.  Hit
> me privatley off list,
> Steve D

I am looking for a non cracked door for the console on my 69. Since I don't have your e-mail address, If you have one
can you contact me at kcolund@shaw.ca

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 09:39:46 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Control Arm Shims.

> Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 18:01:48 -0700
> From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
> Subject: Control Arm Shims.
> 
> The front end on my car developed a severe clunk in it today. 
> Upon inspection it appears the shims (I think there were
> 4) on the back bolt of the upper control arm, somehow came 
> dislodged. Only one remains. I've never seen this happen.
> 
> Do you think a wheel alignment is all that is needed, or 
> could there be something else I missed that may have caused
> this?
> 
> Kevin

That has happened to me two or three of times over the years, on both my '70 and the '71. Last time was about two years ago, and the alignment guy said this is a fairly common thing with A-Bodies. Maybe it's just that the alignment guys don't torque the nuts properly or something.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 09:50:56 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: '70 SX convert

> Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 19:09:07 -0700
> From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
> Subject: '70 SX convert
> 
> A local club member sold his '71 SX convert last spring for 
> $23,000.00 from 
> an ad, and did have a few responses.  The car was a rock 
> solid Oklahoma car 
> restored correctly with lots of options, dark blue, and 
> paperwork.  So a 
> nice one will bring 442 money.
> 
> Joe Varley
>       AZ

That was a '70 SX as Joe had in the subject line, not a '71 as he 
had in the message body. It was a beautiful Viking Blue and White 
car with lots of options, as Joe said, including the W-25 AOI.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 10:00:11 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

> Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 22:05:50 -0500
> From: Texas442 <Texas442@Texas442.com>
> Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
> 
> >What to look for to authenticate it as genuine?
> 
> Frank,
> If you can find the build sheet, then look for the Y79 
> package.  Also, most (or maybe all) SX cars came with 
> posi track rear-ends.  I 
> owned two SXs, 
> and both had 2.56 Highway posi rear ends.
> Ali 

Not all had limited slip rears. I just missed buying a '71 SX 
back in 1986 that had 2.56 gears and an open diff. That car 
would light up the right rear tire from 30 mph with no problem. 
I'm not 100% certain, but I think the G80 Limited Slip option 
was something that had to be specifically ordered. There were 
only a few instances where it came as part of an option package, 
such as the W-Machine packages. Note how many 442s came with open 
diffs because the G80 option was not specified.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 10:01:49 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Control Arm Shims.

>
> That has happened to me two or three of times over the years, on both my '70 and the '71. Last time was about two
years ago, and the alignment guy said this is a fairly common thing with A-Bodies. Maybe it's just that the alignment
guys don't torque the nuts properly or something.
>

I imagine this happens because of the number of shims involved. I wonder if a weld across the top of the shims would
keep them from coming out.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 10:08:53 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 11:54:07 -0400
> From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
> Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
> 
> On Monday April 5 Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >People have e-mailed me claiming to have a factory non-SX 
> 455 Supreme, but 
> >just like CW's solid-main-web 403's, no proof has ever materialized.
> >
> 
> Robert,
> 
> I still have a 455 and attached turbo 400 that I pulled from 
> a 1972 Cutlass 
> Supreme many years ago.  Are you saying that the car must 
> have been an SX?  I 
> don't remember any SX emblems on the front fenders.  I think 
> I have a copy of 
> the car's title. Is there a special letter code (Like "X" for 
> 72 W30) in the 
> vin number? 
> 
> Thanks for the information, 
> Mike McDonald
> McDonald_M@72ho.com

No, Robert, the SX was available in '70 and '71 only. For '72, the 
455 engine was just another option.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 12:17:32 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: More on BBO Bronze

I called a local paint place in town today as I too am in need of BBO Bronze
paint.  They are a PPG dealer and found "63-70 Oldsmobile Copper-Bronze"
PPG2657.  The nice thing about this place is no hazmat shipping and instant
gratification.  Anyone familiar with this formulation or know where to find
a paint chip of it online.  They don't have a chip so the only way I can see
what it looks like is to buy a can.  I'll post a pic of the color once I get
it sprayed.

- --
Eric Beaupre

Engineering
eServ LLC
8200 N Allen Rd
Peoria, IL 61615
ofc: 309-691-4957 X1034
fax: 309-691-4960
cel: 309-453-3895
eml: ebeaupre@eserv.biz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 12:33:24 -0500
From: "ledbetter" <ledbetter@adams.net>
Subject: Re: lower console

Steve d,
      i need to get your email address to send you info about the lower
console piece i need.  thanks  charlie

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ledbetter" <ledbetter@adams.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 10:23 PM
Subject: lower console


> i am looking for the lower part of the console for a 72 olds cutlass
> automatic can anyone tell me where i might find one.  thanks  charlie
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 13:41:49 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Is my Olds 307 beyond repair??(long)

At 03:14 AM 4/6/2004, you wrote:
>pump), I know that though He endured a few battle scars, He's NOT beyond 
>repair, He's NOT scrap-pile for the Yardie, and He IS still a fine 
>American Olds.

John,

That's about the best result possible, isn't it? Well, aside from having 
the original carb back... :)

Congratulations, and good luck keeping that beauty running strong.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 13:47:59 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: long time owners

Well Ron.....sure hope you can make it...but understand if ya
cant...something's just cant be helped!!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 13:48:32 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: long time owners....

Thats kewl Jim.....so you now have the car your dad bought for your mom!!
Have pictures??

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 11:08:25 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Control Arm Shims.

The original factory nuts should be self-locking. After a couple of times of
use, they loosen up. It's always a good idea to recheck the nuts after a
front end alignment, or replace the nuts with new self-locking ones. Nyloks
work the best (Nylon insert for locking, either in the side or the top
[preferred]).

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: RE: Control Arm Shims.


> > Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 18:01:48 -0700
> > From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
> > Subject: Control Arm Shims.
> >
> > The front end on my car developed a severe clunk in it today.
> > Upon inspection it appears the shims (I think there were
> > 4) on the back bolt of the upper control arm, somehow came
> > dislodged. Only one remains. I've never seen this happen.
> >
> > Do you think a wheel alignment is all that is needed, or
> > could there be something else I missed that may have caused
> > this?
> >
> > Kevin
>
> That has happened to me two or three of times over the years, on both my
'70 and the '71. Last time was about two years ago, and the alignment guy
said this is a fairly common thing with A-Bodies. Maybe it's just that the
alignment guys don't torque the nuts properly or something.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 11:29:33 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Longest owned Olds

I've had my 1969 Hurst/Olds since 1983. I thought that was a long-term 
commitment. Everyone else puts me to shame! :-)

Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ
69 H/O #89
69 W31 S Post 4spd
62 Starfire Convertible (FOR SALE)
95 Cutlass Convertible 3.4L
01 Aurora 3.5L


>When I first joined the List 3 years ago, my first impression was that I 
>was
>an anachronism because I had owned Thunder since 1968, while most people
>seemed to hang onto their Olds cars only a few years and then got something
>else. After awhile, I came to realize that a few more people than I thought
>had kept their Olds cars. With this thread, I see that a lot more people on
>this list have stayed true and kept their one special Olds for many, many
>years.
>
>That is very good.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE! 
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4847
*********************************
