
oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, March 2 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4801



Larry Biasotto's SX
Re: sqeaky belts
SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux
RE: Larry Biasotto's SX
1971 Cutlass, less engine/trans FS
super-air-pump....RE: AIR pumps
Re: more FWD vs RWD 3.8L
Re: sqeaky belts
Re: super-air-pump....RE: AIR pumps
Re: AIR pumps
O.T. CT & Mass state info PLZ
Re: O.T. CT & Mass state info PLZ
Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux
Re: AIR Pump Belt Adjustment??
Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux
Quick Virus Warning
FW: Nodular Diesel Crank
Re: Quick Virus Warning
Re: Quick Virus Warning
Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux
Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux
Re: Larry Biasotto's SX

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 21:11:20 -0500
From: "L. A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@verizon.net>
Subject: Larry Biasotto's SX

Thanks to those who commented on the pictures of my 71 SX.

Details in summary are as follows,
I am the 3rd owner.  2nd owner bought the car in 73.  Car was hit in 75 on
the front drivers side.  Put back on the road and driven maybe 2 more years.
It had since sat as the owner was too old to drive any longer.  He died and
left the car to his nephews, who garaged it but did not restore it.  I
bought it in 1999.  45k original miles.

I started a complete frame off restoration in 1999.  Found out the that
frame was bent, found a frame from a cutlass about 2 hours from here near
Philadelphia.  Good shape and brought it home for $400.  Blasted, por'd it
and started the rebuild.  All stainless lines, moog front end, 256 posi rear
(std for sx) was fine.  Heads got shaved, valves done, new lifters, cleaned
up, and put back together.  New oil pump, water pump, alt, volt reg, rebuilt
carb by sparky.  Put it back together, dropped the body back on and went
bombing in the neighborhood with my kid, milk crates on the floor, no front
end sheet metal.  It ran great.

Had all the old paint blasted off.  New quarters, butt welded, patch panels,
torque tech 2.5 exhaust.  Re chromed bumpers, SS1, etc etc.  Painted her GM
Dark Cherry Metallic.  This color was used on 75 Imp*l* and 4oth aniv Grand
Pr*x.  Original color was silver metallic, but since she is a supreme, I
thought the chrome got lost with the silver.  So I went for a dark color
that I really liked.  I think I made the right choice.  She gets a new top
on Friday.  I will drive her but hopefully never in the rain.  The car will
be shown at the Ocean City Cruise In on May 20th.

Thanks to all of you who helped with your advice and tips.

If you missed the pics, they are on our family web site listed below.

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze80eus/

Larry Biasotto
1971 Cutlass SX Convertible (now tagged and on the road!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 21:23:55 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: sqeaky belts

Chris Carson wrote:
> Ya think that serpentine setup that was on the V6 Diesel work? Cuz there's
> one in the engine pile at the junkyard, the whole engine could probably be
> mine for $50...
> Chris

It might.

http://home.att.net/~oldsranch/v6a.jpg
(courtesy Dave Worthington)

We could ask Dave to take some measurements for us on the G-list.

- --
joe vitek

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 20:00:37 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux

Brownie points to who can guess what the nice man at the nice repair shop
did to fix my brakes - NICE pedal, GOOD stopping power - my God, he was
coming down the road at 70 mph I thought for sure he was trying to wreck
it...no, it stops.  Wow.

Hint:  It wasn't bleeding them, they were pretty close already.
Hint:  And it was simple.  Like, basic.
Bigger hint:  Indirectly, I mentioned the issue in my original post,
although I didn't realize it at the time.

At 01:56 AM 02/29/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>The '84 equipment is all off of the previous specimen, which is sadly no
>longer with us.  The brakes were installed and working GREAT (except for
>the absence of the rear prop valve, which was incidentally the cause of the
>accident) using everything you see here - except for the splindles and
>rotors, I didn't mention that earlier, it's '84 calipers but I couldn't use
>'84 rotors on the '77 spindles because the outer bearing is bigger on the
>'84 spindles...'77 arms, spindle, and rotors, '84 calipers.
>
>I don't know why that would be a problem, it once again fit together just
>fine, except that now I'm starting to wonder how many metric/english
>adventures I'm in for...
>
>At 03:29 AM 02/29/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>.
>>
>>Is that '84 MC new or Yarde-vintage? If from another car, were you able to
>>test it before you removed it? Sounds like it's leaking internally.
>>
>>SteveH
>> 
> 

And the original post:

OK, I'm going to make it quick. (I just looked back at that during proofing 
the whole thing and realized I lied). The brake job should be done but isn't.
We now have 1984 Delta 88 reservoir, mc, booster, mc-to-propvalve pipes, 
and prop valve (all clean and pretty and even painted) running to '84 "low 
drag" front calipers and '78 LeSabre 11" drums in back on '77 Delta 88. 
The only '77 parts remaining are the brake hard lines from prop valve to 
fronts and rear, as well as the brake pedal assembly itself (it COULDN'T be 
that the pedals are different between years, can it?...the '77 pedal hooked 
right up to the '84 pushrod with no persuasion required...)
Also have Summit adjustable proportioning valve between '84 prop valve and 
rears, dialed to approx. 20% reduction (assuming that the degree of 
restriction is constant throughout it's travel, 43% total reduction on 10.5 
turns lock to lock = 4.09% a turn @ 5.25 turns = 21.5%). This restriction 
is needed so the backs don't lock up before the fronts (the '84 prop valve 
is setup for 11" disc in front/9" drums in back, not the 11" drum brakes 
currently installed.) This is not dialed in, it's just a guess on where to 
start.
So it DOES stop itself, they DO work, I drove it around the neighborhood 
this evening...it's just that there's a lot of pedal travel before they 
start to do anything. The brake pedal pumps up nicely when the car is off, 
but as soon as you start the engine (with your foot on the brake) the pedal 
goes down a lot - not to the floor, but too much. Doing a burnout (testing 
purposes only of course, it wasn't even me driving) the fronts give way 
after only a few seconds - I would have expected them to hold the car 
almost indefinitely...right?
I have just been bleeding the snot out of them last weekend and now today, 
but am always getting some air, especially in the back, but really only on 
the driver's side. The MC is definitely bled, I bench bled it before 
installation but today I unhooked the pipes and re-bench bled it with it on 
the car and it didn't have any air in it at all, then hooked it back up and 
trying to bleed them and...I don't know, it seems like if I didn't have a 
connection tight somewhere I'd be dripping fluid, which I'm not...I think 
I'm to undserstand that if the booster was bad the pedal would be hard, not 
squishy..does anybody have any ideas on what's next besides getting a shop 
to power-bleed the system?
The reason I'm asking is I've never NOT been able to bleed a system 
(scratch that - basically, THIS system, installed on a different car) 
myself, and certainly in the past it was done in much less time than I've 
spent on this recently...
	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 21:35:11 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Larry Biasotto's SX

I sure miss Assateague. That was another life. One that apparently wasn't
meant to be mine.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 20:36:06 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 1971 Cutlass, less engine/trans FS

Just a reminder that I have a '71 Cutlass Holiday Coupe is solid shape 
for sale, minus the engine and trans.
Floors are solid, trunk is solid, body is rust free except for the 
usual spots behind all four wheel wells. Minor body damage. Decent 
hood, good fenders, good deck lid. Good doors, except that the 
passenger door skin is splitting off where it apparently rubbed at the 
rear. A decent welder should be able to fix. Good glass except for 
cracked windshield. Interior is rough, and very incorrect (see web 
page). Bumpers pooped (and incorrect.) Manual drums all around, PS, AT, 
factory AC car. Looks like a 10-bolt corporate rear, probably not posi. 
4 good 14" bolt-on center cap Rally IIs (only 3 center caps, IIRC. 
Maybe 2.)
Pictures and such at:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

If this car isn't sold by April or so, it's going to get disassembled 
to fix the big ouchie in my '70's quarter panel, and be sold off 
piecemeal.
I can provide more/specific pictures if needed.

krw

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 22:00:42 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: super-air-pump....RE: AIR pumps

At 11:01 PM 03/01/2004 -0500, Steve wrote:
>With this thought in mind, I often wondered if installing a
>"super-air-pump" and running a small hurricane throught your exhaust would
>dilute the exhaust enough to help a car pass the sniffer.

The AIR system always made me wonder . . I know the theory is that
introducing oxygen into really hot exhaust gases lets more of the CO become
CO2 (or so I'd been told)..... but I wondered if in practice it worked that
well.  And if it didn't, were the emissions cleaner simply because fresh
air was being added into the exhaust stream, thus making whatever
pollutants there were simply less of a total percentage of what's coming
out the tailpipe, rather than reducing (in absolute terms) any pollution?

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 23:23:35 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: more FWD vs RWD 3.8L

At 09:36 PM 03/01/2004 -0500, Steve Amadei wrote:
>On Sat, 28 Feb 2004, King V wrote:
>
>> This seems to imply that the 3.8L V6 FWD version can simply have the RWD
>> mounts put on it and bolt the sucker into a RWD car?!
>
>To the best of my knowledge, you can.  Alot of talk about putting
>Supercharged 3800s in RWD cars comes up... the engine will apparently bolt
>in (that's how it is in the late F-bods)... but the supercharger is
>orientated wrong for a RWD application... I think it would interfere with
>the firewall.

Well, technically, if I were to put in even the 86-88 3.8L V6 FI in, the
intake would be oriented wrong.  You'd wind up with the air intake and
water outlet facing the firewall, and the EGR on the passenger side.  I
figure just turn the intake around 180 degrees.



>> Ok, the 3800 is less useful as a whole engine due to the tranny bolt
>> pattern.  Gotcha, I think.  But I thought the earlier and later OD FWD
>> trannies all used the same bolt pattern?
>
>This sounds like BS.  How did they fit them in Camaros and Firebirds?
>They were NA'd 3800 series backed up by a 4L60E (TH700).

What years were these available in the F-body?

Anyhoo, maybe I should take a closer look at sides of the blocks for both
the 3.8L from my 1986 Delta, and the 3800 from the 1989 Eighty-Eight that
I'm currently driving.

Heh, maybe I *do* plan to build the "average commuter" G-body that GM
*should* have offered.  All those 4.3L Grand Prix and Monte Carlos have the
fuel tank with the baffles for the in-tank fuel pump, I've got a complete
engine/wiring/ECM/everything in a FWD car.  Should, in theory, be a piece
of cake.

Then again, I've run into cases where changing a tire was problematic.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 22:11:04 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: sqeaky belts

I understand the problem with differential side pull for the accessory
belts, but...engines that are *only* equipped with an alternator, one side
pull only, don't have a belt squeal problem.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <joevitek@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: sqeaky belts


>
> > At 09:41 PM 3/1/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> > >That won't help.
> >
> > Yeah, it does.
>
> Not in my case, been there done it. In fact, it was on the G-list that I
went back and forth with you guys and finally figured out that my lack of
pass side pull of A/C belt was the problem. I did many experiments with this
belt on, that belt off, no belts at all, put them on one at a time, tighten,
belt dressing on new belts, etc. When I didn't have the freewheeling A/C
belt on, the PS pump and/or the alt belt would squeal at higher rpm or quick
engine rev. No matter how much I tightened the NEW PS and alt belts, they
would NEVER stop doing a squeal on quick rev or high rev. As soon as put the
A/C belt on (A/C not working) and tightened it up, problem gone.
>
> It was the people on the G-list that helped me get to that problem. It is
just a suggestion to try. I suggest it because he didn't have the problem
until he took off the A/C belt.
>
> Mine happened the same way.
>
> --
> joe vitek
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 05:39:26 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: super-air-pump....RE: AIR pumps

King V wrote:
> At 11:01 PM 03/01/2004 -0500, Steve wrote:
> 
>>With this thought in mind, I often wondered if installing a
>>"super-air-pump" and running a small hurricane throught your exhaust would
>>dilute the exhaust enough to help a car pass the sniffer.
> 
> 
> The AIR system always made me wonder . . I know the theory is that
> introducing oxygen into really hot exhaust gases lets more of the CO become
> CO2 (or so I'd been told)..... but I wondered if in practice it worked that
> well.  And if it didn't, were the emissions cleaner simply because fresh
> air was being added into the exhaust stream, thus making whatever
> pollutants there were simply less of a total percentage of what's coming
> out the tailpipe, rather than reducing (in absolute terms) any pollution?
> 
> 	- Joe Vahabzadeh
> 
> 
I offered this same theory a few months back and was shot down. I 
understand that CO is very unstable and wants to be CO2 other than that 
I believe that all air pumps ever did was fool a meter. Add extra air to 
the exhaust and reduce the percentage of emissions by dilution.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 07:19:32 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: AIR pumps

> The automotive theory behind AIR was that it would lengthen the time the
> mixture burned a bit, but I didn't get that. As far as I could see all it
> was doing was pushing fresh air into the exhaust stream to dilute what was
> coming out of the cylinders. So it didn't reduce emissions, it just
diluted
> them.

You need to read about Air Injection Reaction.

Adding fresh air to the exhaust ports causes the unburned fuel in the
exhaust to ignite, reducing HC's during the warmup period when mixtures are
normally rich. It's not "dillution".

Diverting the air to the catalytic converter after warmup helps the cat do
its job.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 06:29:12 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: O.T. CT & Mass state info PLZ

All,
	I know we have a few members living in those two states, and I'd
like to get your thoughts and any general info on the cost of living, and
state taxes you can share.
	In my search for a new job over the weekend, I have found a lot of
jobs in CT & Mass on the 'Net.
	Also what about car emissions?  How strict/bad is the testing?

Sorry for the O.T. thread, but I would appreciate any info anyone has to
share.

Please reply privately.

Thanks!

Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 08:54:42 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: O.T. CT & Mass state info PLZ

Hi Steve,
I heard of your demise earlier and you have my sympathies.
I must tell you as a long time member of  MA, RI, NH, that you will more
than likley find a good paying job in MA, but personally, I hate the state
for reasons I need not discuss. If you wish PM me, swannys78@adelphia.net
and I could explain W/O offending anybody on the list. MA inspection isn't
too harsh, CT is the  worst of the 6 states. However, every state has a
"backyard" shop that overlooks small punitive items such as a catalytic
converter on an, ie; 75 Cutlass that came with a cat. from the factory. I
work here in NH for such a garage, that will over look those things, #1,
unless you have a wooden rear bumber on a 77 cutty, I wouldnt fail you, but
look a little closer at your front end parts. and make sure you don't kill
"MY FAMILY" with a piece of junk that I just passed for inspection. In NH we
dont put your car through emissions at every garage, ie; if you lived in
Nashua, you might get put on a machine to see what your emmissions are, but
the next couple of  towns over won't have an emmissions test machine and you
can get a sticker that way.
Good luck and please feel free to PM me.
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@direcway.com>
To: "Olds" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 7:29 AM
Subject: O.T. CT & Mass state info PLZ


> All,
> I know we have a few members living in those two states, and I'd
> like to get your thoughts and any general info on the cost of living, and
> state taxes you can share.
> In my search for a new job over the weekend, I have found a lot of
> jobs in CT & Mass on the 'Net.
> Also what about car emissions?  How strict/bad is the testing?
>
> Sorry for the O.T. thread, but I would appreciate any info anyone has to
> share.
>
> Please reply privately.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Steve Reed
> '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
> '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
> '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
> Austin, TX
> http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:23:14 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux

Sorry, Is this the car that had a complete front brake swap?
Would it be the prop valve button if so equipped?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 9:00 PM
Subject: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux


> Brownie points to who can guess what the nice man at the nice repair shop
> did to fix my brakes - NICE pedal, GOOD stopping power - my God, he was
> coming down the road at 70 mph I thought for sure he was trying to wreck
> it...no, it stops.  Wow.
>
> Hint:  It wasn't bleeding them, they were pretty close already.
> Hint:  And it was simple.  Like, basic.
> Bigger hint:  Indirectly, I mentioned the issue in my original post,
> although I didn't realize it at the time.
>
> At 01:56 AM 02/29/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> >The '84 equipment is all off of the previous specimen, which is sadly no
> >longer with us.  The brakes were installed and working GREAT (except for
> >the absence of the rear prop valve, which was incidentally the cause of
the
> >accident) using everything you see here - except for the splindles and
> >rotors, I didn't mention that earlier, it's '84 calipers but I couldn't
use
> >'84 rotors on the '77 spindles because the outer bearing is bigger on the
> >'84 spindles...'77 arms, spindle, and rotors, '84 calipers.
> >
> >I don't know why that would be a problem, it once again fit together just
> >fine, except that now I'm starting to wonder how many metric/english
> >adventures I'm in for...
> >
> >At 03:29 AM 02/29/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> >>.
> >>
> >>Is that '84 MC new or Yarde-vintage? If from another car, were you able
to
> >>test it before you removed it? Sounds like it's leaking internally.
> >>
> >>SteveH
> >>
> >
>
> And the original post:
>
> OK, I'm going to make it quick. (I just looked back at that during
proofing
> the whole thing and realized I lied). The brake job should be done but
isn't.
> We now have 1984 Delta 88 reservoir, mc, booster, mc-to-propvalve pipes,
> and prop valve (all clean and pretty and even painted) running to '84 "low
> drag" front calipers and '78 LeSabre 11" drums in back on '77 Delta 88.
> The only '77 parts remaining are the brake hard lines from prop valve to
> fronts and rear, as well as the brake pedal assembly itself (it COULDN'T
be
> that the pedals are different between years, can it?...the '77 pedal
hooked
> right up to the '84 pushrod with no persuasion required...)
> Also have Summit adjustable proportioning valve between '84 prop valve and
> rears, dialed to approx. 20% reduction (assuming that the degree of
> restriction is constant throughout it's travel, 43% total reduction on
10.5
> turns lock to lock = 4.09% a turn @ 5.25 turns = 21.5%). This restriction
> is needed so the backs don't lock up before the fronts (the '84 prop valve
> is setup for 11" disc in front/9" drums in back, not the 11" drum brakes
> currently installed.) This is not dialed in, it's just a guess on where to
> start.
> So it DOES stop itself, they DO work, I drove it around the neighborhood
> this evening...it's just that there's a lot of pedal travel before they
> start to do anything. The brake pedal pumps up nicely when the car is off,
> but as soon as you start the engine (with your foot on the brake) the
pedal
> goes down a lot - not to the floor, but too much. Doing a burnout (testing
> purposes only of course, it wasn't even me driving) the fronts give way
> after only a few seconds - I would have expected them to hold the car
> almost indefinitely...right?
> I have just been bleeding the snot out of them last weekend and now today,
> but am always getting some air, especially in the back, but really only on
> the driver's side. The MC is definitely bled, I bench bled it before
> installation but today I unhooked the pipes and re-bench bled it with it
on
> the car and it didn't have any air in it at all, then hooked it back up
and
> trying to bleed them and...I don't know, it seems like if I didn't have a
> connection tight somewhere I'd be dripping fluid, which I'm not...I think
> I'm to undserstand that if the booster was bad the pedal would be hard,
not
> squishy..does anybody have any ideas on what's next besides getting a shop
> to power-bleed the system?
> The reason I'm asking is I've never NOT been able to bleed a system
> (scratch that - basically, THIS system, installed on a different car)
> myself, and certainly in the past it was done in much less time than I've
> spent on this recently...
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 08:58:30 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: AIR Pump Belt Adjustment??

On Mar 1, 2004, at 7:25 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 20:56:48 -0500 (EST)
> From: Stephen Amadei <amadei@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: AIR Pump Belt Adjustment??
>
> On Sat, 28 Feb 2004, Steve Harrison wrote:
>
<snip>
>
>> The alternative would be to somehow find the brackets from a
>> non-A/C-equipped 307. And if B-bodies weren't even available without 
>> A/C,
>> I'd likely have to install the pump and brackets from a non-A/C 
>> G-body,
>> which don't exist in the northeast.
>
> Why not get some spherical rod end connectors?  For something like the 
> air
> pump, you would just need one rigid mount, and one adjustible spherical
> rod end connector.  It would very 'Hot Rod'... would that be a problem 
> to
> the inspection guys?  I'm not sure how much it would cost, but it can't
> too bad.
>
> I've been thinking of doing this next time, instead of dealing with
> screwed up OEM mounts and brackets.  I abhor the power steering 
> adjustment
> (or lack thereof) on the '80s 307 B-bods...
>
> BTW, be careful adjusting the air pump... I got carried away last time 
> and
> cracked the mounting ear... I was lucky, it still mounts, but if I 
> loosen
> it a bit, it'll fall off.  ;-)

Or, really cheap, turnbuckles from Home Depot or Lowes will get you 
there. The one's from Lowe's have an aluminum hex-stock body that can 
be polished - very trick looking! :P
I used one on my alternator: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/images/olds/Snoopy_alt-1-tb.html
and: http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/images/olds/Snoopy_alt-2-tb.html

>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 08:48:44 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux

Yes, it is.

The answer is (it must be a busy week - or possibly nobody cares) that the
rear brakes needed to be adjusted, using the special wrench on the star nut
thing.

Too much space between the shoes and the drums with no pedal, too much
pedal travel being used to move the shoes into contact with the drums
(instead of stopping the car).

At 09:23 AM 03/02/2004 -0500, swanny wrote:
>Sorry, Is this the car that had a complete front brake swap?
>Would it be the prop valve button if so equipped?
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 9:00 PM
>Subject: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux
>
>
>> Brownie points to who can guess what the nice man at the nice repair shop
>> did to fix my brakes - NICE pedal, GOOD stopping power - my God, he was
>> coming down the road at 70 mph I thought for sure he was trying to wreck
>> it...no, it stops.  Wow.
>>
>> Hint:  It wasn't bleeding them, they were pretty close already.
>> Hint:  And it was simple.  Like, basic.
>> Bigger hint:  Indirectly, I mentioned the issue in my original post,
>> although I didn't realize it at the time.
>>
>> At 01:56 AM 02/29/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>> >The '84 equipment is all off of the previous specimen, which is sadly no
>> >longer with us.  The brakes were installed and working GREAT (except for
>> >the absence of the rear prop valve, which was incidentally the cause of
>the
>> >accident) using everything you see here - except for the splindles and
>> >rotors, I didn't mention that earlier, it's '84 calipers but I couldn't
>use
>> >'84 rotors on the '77 spindles because the outer bearing is bigger on the
>> >'84 spindles...'77 arms, spindle, and rotors, '84 calipers.
>> >
>> >I don't know why that would be a problem, it once again fit together just
>> >fine, except that now I'm starting to wonder how many metric/english
>> >adventures I'm in for...
>> >
>> >At 03:29 AM 02/29/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>> >>.
>> >>
>> >>Is that '84 MC new or Yarde-vintage? If from another car, were you able
>to
>> >>test it before you removed it? Sounds like it's leaking internally.
>> >>
>> >>SteveH
>> >>
>> >
>>
>> And the original post:
>>
>> OK, I'm going to make it quick. (I just looked back at that during
>proofing
>> the whole thing and realized I lied). The brake job should be done but
>isn't.
>> We now have 1984 Delta 88 reservoir, mc, booster, mc-to-propvalve pipes,
>> and prop valve (all clean and pretty and even painted) running to '84 "low
>> drag" front calipers and '78 LeSabre 11" drums in back on '77 Delta 88.
>> The only '77 parts remaining are the brake hard lines from prop valve to
>> fronts and rear, as well as the brake pedal assembly itself (it COULDN'T
>be
>> that the pedals are different between years, can it?...the '77 pedal
>hooked
>> right up to the '84 pushrod with no persuasion required...)
>> Also have Summit adjustable proportioning valve between '84 prop valve and
>> rears, dialed to approx. 20% reduction (assuming that the degree of
>> restriction is constant throughout it's travel, 43% total reduction on
>10.5
>> turns lock to lock = 4.09% a turn @ 5.25 turns = 21.5%). This restriction
>> is needed so the backs don't lock up before the fronts (the '84 prop valve
>> is setup for 11" disc in front/9" drums in back, not the 11" drum brakes
>> currently installed.) This is not dialed in, it's just a guess on where to
>> start.
>> So it DOES stop itself, they DO work, I drove it around the neighborhood
>> this evening...it's just that there's a lot of pedal travel before they
>> start to do anything. The brake pedal pumps up nicely when the car is off,
>> but as soon as you start the engine (with your foot on the brake) the
>pedal
>> goes down a lot - not to the floor, but too much. Doing a burnout (testing
>> purposes only of course, it wasn't even me driving) the fronts give way
>> after only a few seconds - I would have expected them to hold the car
>> almost indefinitely...right?
>> I have just been bleeding the snot out of them last weekend and now today,
>> but am always getting some air, especially in the back, but really only on
>> the driver's side. The MC is definitely bled, I bench bled it before
>> installation but today I unhooked the pipes and re-bench bled it with it
>on
>> the car and it didn't have any air in it at all, then hooked it back up
>and
>> trying to bleed them and...I don't know, it seems like if I didn't have a
>> connection tight somewhere I'd be dripping fluid, which I'm not...I think
>> I'm to undserstand that if the booster was bad the pedal would be hard,
>not
>> squishy..does anybody have any ideas on what's next besides getting a shop
>> to power-bleed the system?
>> The reason I'm asking is I've never NOT been able to bleed a system
>> (scratch that - basically, THIS system, installed on a different car)
>> myself, and certainly in the past it was done in much less time than I've
>> spent on this recently...
>>
>>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:52:55 -0500
From: "Hurst Olds" <hurstolds@planetc.com>
Subject: Quick Virus Warning

Howdy Gang...

Just a quick note to the list... my server's anti-virus software just
identified a whole slew of incoming mail messages as having viruses... none
seemed to come from the list but I think they may have come from my email
address being on my web site which is Olds related.  I figured I'd better
send a shout out to you others out there with websites.

The "send" mail addresses (all of which are probably bull) and their
subjects are:
suggestion@atsrecruitment.com:       Unknown
casorsoranch@shaw.ca:                   read it immediately
gerd.mueller@kvaerner.com:            information
frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net:            Your bill.
nelson_bruce@jaydemail.com:         Here is it
14@mail.comcast.net:                      last chance!

Later Gang,
Clayton Pierce,
Johnson City, TN
hurstolds@planetc.com

1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Holiday Coupe
1979 Hurst/Olds W30 (white/gold)
1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Coupe
1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Coupe (T-tops)
1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe

1953 International L-160
1963 Chevrolet C10 LWB
1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
1969 GMC Custom 1500 LWB
1980 Rover 3500 SD1
1986 Ford LTD Brougham (probably sold)
1987 Dodge Diplomat Salon Police Car (ex Greeneville, TN)
1987 Volvo 740GLE (V8 project)
1989 Volvo 740GL (driver)
1991 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 Police Car (ex NJSP)
1992 Saab 900 Sedan ($500 - v.good body/int needs engine)
1994 Ford Ranger

1978 to 1980 Olds Web Site
http://www.442spot.com/cpierce/78-80olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:57:57 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: FW: Nodular Diesel Crank

The FAQ says:

"The diesel mains have all the metal of a solid-web block, plus all the
metal that should have gone in those windowed-main gas blocks. Pretty
hefty. Good for nitrous and turbo/super charger applications. The
crankshafts are supposed to be nodular."

Can anyone confirm or deny whether the cranks are nodular vs. plain
cast?  Any markings on the crank to ID that (N or CN)? I acquired a D
350 code short block today (fat webs, .842 ID flat tappet, nice oil
cooler hardware). Any info on the crank casting is appreciated.  If
they're nodular they may be useful for development (3.50 x 4.155).

Thanks 

Ian Dixon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 11:06:39 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: Quick Virus Warning

   I got hit with every one of them this morning....  :-)
john
67 cutlas supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 12:25:10 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Quick Virus Warning

Wow, You got nice ones! I got some that Norton Anti Virus intercepted with
nasty, Cc: $#@%&*(@!!@#$%$% words that are not list friendly!
Thanks for the info!
Pat.


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Hurst Olds" <hurstolds@planetc.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:52 AM
Subject: Quick Virus Warning


> Howdy Gang...
>
> Just a quick note to the list... my server's anti-virus software just
> identified a whole slew of incoming mail messages as having viruses...
none
> seemed to come from the list but I think they may have come from my email
> address being on my web site which is Olds related.  I figured I'd better
> send a shout out to you others out there with websites.
>
> The "send" mail addresses (all of which are probably bull) and their
> subjects are:
> suggestion@atsrecruitment.com:       Unknown
> casorsoranch@shaw.ca:                   read it immediately
> gerd.mueller@kvaerner.com:            information
> frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net:            Your bill.
> nelson_bruce@jaydemail.com:         Here is it
> 14@mail.comcast.net:                      last chance!
>
> Later Gang,
> Clayton Pierce,
> Johnson City, TN
> hurstolds@planetc.com
>
> 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Holiday Coupe
> 1979 Hurst/Olds W30 (white/gold)
> 1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Coupe
> 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Coupe (T-tops)
> 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
>
> 1953 International L-160
> 1963 Chevrolet C10 LWB
> 1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
> 1969 GMC Custom 1500 LWB
> 1980 Rover 3500 SD1
> 1986 Ford LTD Brougham (probably sold)
> 1987 Dodge Diplomat Salon Police Car (ex Greeneville, TN)
> 1987 Volvo 740GLE (V8 project)
> 1989 Volvo 740GL (driver)
> 1991 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 Police Car (ex NJSP)
> 1992 Saab 900 Sedan ($500 - v.good body/int needs engine)
> 1994 Ford Ranger
>
> 1978 to 1980 Olds Web Site
> http://www.442spot.com/cpierce/78-80olds/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:53:09 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux

> The answer is (it must be a busy week - or possibly nobody cares) that the
> rear brakes needed to be adjusted, using the special wrench on the star
nut
> thing.


Makes perfect sense. Also, a wide blade screwdriver works. Make sure the
rubber plug is back in place to help keep water out of the brake drum, while
running around in the rain.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 11:45:18 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: SOLUTION Re: Brakes redux

The mechanic took an air chisel to the backing plates to clear one access
hole on each side, this for access to the adjuster without removing the
tire.  Apparantly this hole is not cleared at the factory?  Weird.

So I'll have to scrounge some rubber plugs to go in the holes, which
previously I had not used when I originally rebuilt the brakes.

At 10:53 AM 03/02/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> The answer is (it must be a busy week - or possibly nobody cares) that the
>> rear brakes needed to be adjusted, using the special wrench on the star
>nut
>> thing.
>
>
>Makes perfect sense. Also, a wide blade screwdriver works. Make sure the
>rubber plug is back in place to help keep water out of the brake drum, while
>running around in the rain.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:36:35 -0500
From: "Mike Evans" <mevans@jasnetworks.net>
Subject: Re: Larry Biasotto's SX

Larry,

The car is beautiful!  I can appreciate how much work went into it.

Enjoy!
Mike Evans
Richland, MI
'76 Cutlass S/461
www.time-save.com/cutlass.htm

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "L. A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@verizon.net>
To: "OldsList " <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 9:11 PM
Subject: Larry Biasotto's SX


> Thanks to those who commented on the pictures of my 71 SX.
>
> Details in summary are as follows,
> I am the 3rd owner.  2nd owner bought the car in 73.  Car was hit in 75 on
> the front drivers side.  Put back on the road and driven maybe 2 more
years.
> It had since sat as the owner was too old to drive any longer.  He died
and
> left the car to his nephews, who garaged it but did not restore it.  I
> bought it in 1999.  45k original miles.
>
> I started a complete frame off restoration in 1999.  Found out the that
> frame was bent, found a frame from a cutlass about 2 hours from here near
> Philadelphia.  Good shape and brought it home for $400.  Blasted, por'd it
> and started the rebuild.  All stainless lines, moog front end, 256 posi
rear
> (std for sx) was fine.  Heads got shaved, valves done, new lifters,
cleaned
> up, and put back together.  New oil pump, water pump, alt, volt reg,
rebuilt
> carb by sparky.  Put it back together, dropped the body back on and went
> bombing in the neighborhood with my kid, milk crates on the floor, no
front
> end sheet metal.  It ran great.
>
> Had all the old paint blasted off.  New quarters, butt welded, patch
panels,
> torque tech 2.5 exhaust.  Re chromed bumpers, SS1, etc etc.  Painted her
GM
> Dark Cherry Metallic.  This color was used on 75 Imp*l* and 4oth aniv
Grand
> Pr*x.  Original color was silver metallic, but since she is a supreme, I
> thought the chrome got lost with the silver.  So I went for a dark color
> that I really liked.  I think I made the right choice.  She gets a new top
> on Friday.  I will drive her but hopefully never in the rain.  The car
will
> be shown at the Ocean City Cruise In on May 20th.
>
> Thanks to all of you who helped with your advice and tips.
>
> If you missed the pics, they are on our family web site listed below.
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze80eus/
>
> Larry Biasotto
> 1971 Cutlass SX Convertible (now tagged and on the road!)
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4801
*********************************
