
oldsmobile-digest         Sunday, May 2 2004         Volume 01 : Number 4875



Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C
Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
Re: Fun with a/c
Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C
Re: '73 Supreme for sale
Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Re: fun with A/C (resend?)
Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
Re: fun with A/C (resend?)
Seeking input on KY man Ahlbrand
Door Pins for Dummys
Re: Seeking input on KY man Ahlbrand
Plug recommendation
Re: 65 Cutlass swap2
Radio Install Info
door pins and bushings
back fire on deacceleration ...............
Re: door pins and bushings
RE: door pins and bushings
Re: Plug recommendation
Power Steering Pulley Removal 103
Re: Plug recommendation
fuel tank sending unit
Re: Plug recommendation
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
Re: Plug recommendation
Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c
Re: Plug recommendation
Re: Plug recommendation
Re: Plug recommendation
Re: Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c
Re: Plug recommendation
fuel tank sending unit rebuild.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 03:37:07 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C

At 11:25 PM 4/30/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>At 05:28 PM 04/30/2004 +0000, Andy wrote:
>>
>>I'm wondering what technique you use to siphon gasoline...  ("Okay, I
remove 
>>this injector here, aim it in the general direction of the gas filler on
the 
>>car next to me, rev up the engine on the first car..."  :-)
>
>Um, well, you see....  uhh.... well...
>
>Ok, I never actually went through with it, but I did have a scheme in mind
>to get gas from that same 86 Delta to another car by disconnecting the fuel
>rail from the fuel line, then running a rubber hose from that line into the
>filler neck of the receiving car, then running the 86's fuel pump.

I actually did that some years back when the power went out in our
nayborehood including at the local gas station and I needed some gas for my
gas-powered generator. Started the Goat, got it good and warmed up off the
choke, shut her down, ran the fuel line down into a gas can, started the
Goat agin and ran her till the Hooley went dry. Took around 30 seconds
IIRC. Hadda do that a cupla times to fill the can  ;o|

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 22:59:35 -0500
From: "Nick Dean" <sausageman79@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C

Does that pump run off a pressure switch, or is it programmed to run for
only a couple seconds without the engine cranking?  If it's a pressure
switch it should just keep pumping till you cut the power, or plug it really
good.  If it's programmed, just jumper across it at the pump connector or
the relay....I mean if you're gonna go to the trouble to run a rubber hose
from the fuel line, and you're ever really that desperate for gas (possible
with prices going like they are), it won't be that much extra work......

Welp, I finally got signed back on to the list....been meaning to for a
while, just never got around to it.....then the news of the last Olds came
around and I knew I had to be with friends to grieve properly.  So let's see
how long I can stick around this time before life gets too busy.

Nick Dean
'72 Cutlass w/ very problematic 200-4R

> Um, well, you see....  uhh.... well...
>
> Ok, I never actually went through with it, but I did have a scheme in mind
> to get gas from that same 86 Delta to another car by disconnecting the
fuel
> rail from the fuel line, then running a rubber hose from that line into
the
> filler neck of the receiving car, then running the 86's fuel pump.
>
> Just laziness prevented it, and I also realized that the pump only runs
> about 2 seconds with the ignition turned on when the car's not running.
>
> - Joe Vahabzadeh
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 01:00:35 -0400
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

> Talked to a guy today that had worked for GM and he told me he thought they
> would wait 5 yrs than start the Olds back up again but being built in Japan!

Nah, man. Labor costs are already too high in Japan for the General's
profit margins and in 5 years Mexico will probably be too pricey too.

A more likely scenario is designed in India and assembled in Afghanistan.

What did Ron say ? "Shoot me now"  :-)

Rich
- -- 
rinacker@voicenet.com
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 22:21:59 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fun with a/c

I have used Freeze 12 in 3-4 cars, works great for about $ 10.00 per can.

Joe Varley

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 22:31:32 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C

  What you can also do is put an electrical 12v pump in place of the 
mechanical pump and siphon that way. You may also use the 12v pump and some 
hose to siphon out the filler neck. Worked for me well on several projects. 
Of course, if anyone would have paid attention, the gas tanks would have a 
drain plug. Some cars have them. It is very handy to get the varnish out 
that gas becomes after a 'project' sat for a few years.

The 12v pump to get is a solid state generic fuel pump for about $29.99 at 
any autoparts store.

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 22:33:23 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: '73 Supreme for sale

5k is more than what that car likely cost new. :) It is tough these days. 
Everyone with just a remotely old car thinks immediately that it is special 
and they overprice it, just to be safe.

Cheers, George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 22:36:37 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

FYI, for the TV watchers:

Speed Channel's "Two Guys Garage" to feature LM-1
Show airs this Saturday at 7:30PM EST
San Juan Capistrano, CA - April 30, 2004 - The gang at Two Guys Garage 
recently used thier LM-1 to dyno tune AND road test a Turbo Grand National. 
The results are part of an episode being aired this Saturday on the Speed 
Channel.

It's also being aired Sunday at 11AM, Wednesday at 3:30PM, and Thursday at 
8AM. All times are EST.
Tune in an check out the LM-1 in action with Sam and Dave (formerly of 
Shadetree Mechanic and Crank & Chrome).

About Innovate Motorsports:
Innovate Motorsports develops, manufactures, and markets digital tools for 
measuring, analyzing, and tuning performance engines. Innovate's product 
line includes Air Fuel Ratio Meters, Data Acquisition Systems, and Software 
Tuning Tools.
Company Website: http://www.tuneyourengine.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 22:55:19 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: fun with A/C (resend?)

> ES 12 and Duracool are both hydrocarbon blends.  They work fine as a
> replacement for R-12 and you won't hurt anything by topping off.  EPA does
> not like this,


Quite frankly, I wouldn't care what the EPA does or doesn't like. They are
just as corrupt and anti-Freedom as Medicare. They can both burn in Hell.

Just my 2-cents.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 06:29:11 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C

> Ok, I never actually went through with it, but I did have a scheme in mind
> to get gas from that same 86 Delta to another car by disconnecting the
fuel
> rail from the fuel line, then running a rubber hose from that line into
the
> filler neck of the receiving car, then running the 86's fuel pump.


- -----------------------

Running a hose from the pressure test port on the fuel rail and jumpering
the fuel pump test lead is actually a commonly used and quite safe means of
draining a gas tank on the 3800 V6 cars.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 08:42:00 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

Thats prolly more like it Rich.....damn shame we cant keep american made
things made in america!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 14:30:49 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

At 01:00 AM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> Talked to a guy today that had worked for GM and he told me he thought they
>> would wait 5 yrs than start the Olds back up again but being built in
Japan!
>
>Nah, man. Labor costs are already too high in Japan for the General's
>profit margins and in 5 years Mexico will probably be too pricey too.
>
>A more likely scenario is designed in India and assembled in Afghanistan.

Heh.... with t.errorist b.om.bs already built in, just waiting to be
remotely d.eto.nated when yer late with yer first payment.....
=============8-O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 14:34:00 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: fun with A/C (resend?)

At 10:55 PM 4/30/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> ES 12 and Duracool are both hydrocarbon blends.  They work fine as a
>> replacement for R-12 and you won't hurt anything by topping off.  EPA does
>> not like this,
>
>
>Quite frankly, I wouldn't care what the EPA does or doesn't like. They are
>just as corrupt and anti-Freedom as Medicare

....... and DCF and DSS; don't forget those a.holes.

>They can both burn in Hell.

ALL of them.

>Just my 2-cents.

.... and mine.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 11:08:30 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Seeking input on KY man Ahlbrand

Anyone here know a

John Ahlbrand
410 W. Southern
Covington, KY 41015

??

He was going to buy some small items from me on ebay, now sends only... 
disturbing emails.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN 
Premium! 
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/mlb&pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 10:16:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Brooks <deaconblue1969@yahoo.com>
Subject: Door Pins for Dummys

My driver's door is sagging badly and obviously needs
new pins and bushings.  Anyone have instructions for
this job that even a dummy could follow?

If not, please sanity check the following instructions
as they appear in my brain:

1) mark the door hinges at both door and body (they
used to line up)and take pictures with digital camera
2) unbolt the hinge from the body with a jack
supporting the door
3) unbolt hinges from door 
4) put hinge in vice, drive out the old pins and
bushinges - drive in new pings and bushings and
reassemble
5) re-attatch hinges to door
6) re-attatch hinges to body (with jack and assistant
to support door)
7) align door, tighten bolts, check fit
Repeat 7 until ....

This is the first time I've messed with doors, so I'm
a little nervous.

Bill
1970 Cutlass 'S'

7) 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 13:56:51 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@infionline.net>
Subject: Re: Seeking input on KY man Ahlbrand

Christopher Witt wrote:

> Anyone here know a
>
> John Ahlbrand
> 410 W. Southern
> Covington, KY 41015
>
> ??
>
> He was going to buy some small items from me on ebay, now sends 
> only... disturbing emails.

He's about 85-90 miles north of me, down here south of Lexington, KY.
Could be a Yanqui using a south of the border (Ohio River) address.....  
Never heard of the gentleman however....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 11:40:45 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Plug recommendation

I have been running an RJ12YC6 plug in the oldsmobile up until now, but it seems these are in short supply.

Can anyone recommend a truly equivalent plug that can be run in the .060" range. The guys at the parts store crossed
them over to an Autolite 85, but these would barely have enough  meat on the ground electrode to cover the center
electrode at .045". There is no way they would go to .060". Is there anything in AC Delco?, NGK?

It's for a 69 350 with #5 heads.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 12:12:40 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Cutlass swap2

Jeff,


> Just for g-wiz info, the Chevy will not bolt in the Cutlass, I need new
steel frame mounts like you said. Trans Dapt. makes custom mounts.


That's interesting to know. I'll pass that on to the Olds List.


> Any other hints before I swap over?  Jeff / 65 Cutlass


I can't think of anything else at the moment. Hopefully, some of the other
guys may have further ideas.

Milton
____________

>
> "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> wrote:Jeff,
>
> I'm *not* talking about the rubber motor mounts. I'm referring to the
steel
> pads that bolt to the frame crossmember for the engine the rubber motor
> mounts attach to. The steel pads could be different between a '65 Chevelle
> and a '72 Chevelle, since the frames are different, but I don't know. '65
> Chevelle steel engine mount pads will bolt right into a '65 Olds frame,
> because it's the same thing. I don't know about a '72.
>
> Milton
> ________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JEFFREY LISLE"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 12:14 AM
> Subject: 65 Cutlass swap2
>
>
> > Thankyou for the info about the 72 Chevelle 350 to 65 Cutlass swap. You
> had mentioned that the motor mounts from the 72 might not work with the
65.
> Would 65 Chevelle motor mounts work with the 65 Cutlass, if so I can order
> some before I start the swap. Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 14:26:48 -0500
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Radio Install Info

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
I just got finished installing a new Premier DEH-P750MP
head unit in my 85 Delta 88 Royale. However, I didn't cut
the dash--I mounted it in the ashtray. If anyone is
interested, I will post more details and possibly pictures
of both that and my earlier amp install.


- --Branson

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 15:34:14 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: door pins and bushings

snip>  This is the first time I've messed with doors, so I'm
a little nervous.

Some one please help Bill out here. I have to do the same thing and will 
be following this thread with interest.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 16:02:19 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: back fire on deacceleration ...............

Hey List,

        What causes backfire while deaccelerating ????
It happens with a manual trans car ................. my guess is
a lean condition caused by a closed throttle and engine speed ????
Is this what the dash pot was 'sposed to fix ??????

Tanks,
The General

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 20:02:39 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: door pins and bushings

At 03:34 PM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>snip>  This is the first time I've messed with doors, so I'm
>a little nervous.
>
>Some one please help Bill out here. I have to do the same thing and will 
>be following this thread with interest.

Don't unbolt the door hinges if you can possibly avoid it; better to leave
them alone if you can cut the old pins to get them out, and slip the new
pins in.

I just looked at my '83 M*libu and '88 B-body wagon awhile ago (yes, I know
the car under discussion is an early A-body Cutlass). I noticed that the
top pins have been inserted through the hinge from the bottom while the
bottom pins were inserted through the top of the bottom hinge. That SHOULD
mean that if you grind down the flared "tabs" on the ends of the pins that
is keeping them from backing out, you can pull out the pins without the
door "features" being in the way. You should only do ONE pin at a time
which helps keep the door from flopping around. Have a Phillips screwdriver
or a short bolt available to drop into the hinge after removing the pin and
that should keep the door in place.

The REAL problem will be securing the new pins to keep them from backing
out. You can TRY to displace metal using a metal chisel, similar to the
"flares" on the old pins. But I've read of several guys drilling small
holes in the very ends of the pins and putting cotter pins in the holes; I
think that's what I'll try.

With the pins out, you should be able to pound out the old bushings which
are still in the hinges, then slip the new ones in. Where you may have
problems is if the old bushings were worn through by the pins and the hole
in the hinges has become oblong; in that case, you'll either need new
hinges; or if you're a good welder or know one, you can weld up the hole
and drill it out again.

When it comes to your doors, the bottom line is NOT to simply unbolt the
hinges willy-nilly without analyzing exactly what you can, or have to, do.
It's far more difficult to realign the doors after removing the hinges than
to do a simple realignment due to new pins with the hinges still in their
original location.

I've only done this job once so don't have much experience; and when I did
it that one time, I had another pair of hinges available so didn't have to
change the pins or bushings.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 16:19:43 -0400
From: "Jay Britt" <jbritt67@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: door pins and bushings

I just bought a hinge pin remover from Eastwood (Item#31139) to do the same
thing on my 67 Cutlass. I haven't had time to use it yet, but it looks like
it will work with the door installed.

Jay

- -----Original Message-----
>Some one please help Bill out here. I have to do the same thing and will
>be following this thread with interest.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 16:44:36 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

Maybe this will help? I haven't heard of plugs ever being discontinued or in
short supply.

http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm

My suggestion would be, R45TSX @ .060 gap.
Pat Swanton.



- ---- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 2:40 PM
Subject: Plug recommendation


> I have been running an RJ12YC6 plug in the oldsmobile up until now, but it
seems these are in short supply.
>
> Can anyone recommend a truly equivalent plug that can be run in the .060"
range. The guys at the parts store crossed
> them over to an Autolite 85, but these would barely have enough  meat on
the ground electrode to cover the center
> electrode at .045". There is no way they would go to .060". Is there
anything in AC Delco?, NGK?
>
> It's for a 69 350 with #5 heads.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 18:20:19 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal 103

<The Harbor Freight $22 PS pulley remover/installer works great. It grips on 
the
<pulley snout. Works on many PS pulley designs.
+++++++++++++++
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 09:58:43 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Power Steering Pulley Removal 102
.
Amidst all the pulley pullin' discussion, I was thinking the same thing. I 
have
a similar puller and have used it a few times. Never had to heat, hammer or
break anything.
Eric Holcombe
==================================
Aha, BUT that unit ONLY works on pulleys which HAVE THE LIP. Started about 
1970 or 71 as near as I can tell. For the average 1967-68 or earlier 
pulley... tool is utterly useless. By the way, the other day I had occasion 
to try the air hammer method. Put nut on to protect the shaft threads. 
Applied light pry to pulley backside. Applied air hammer to shaft. GREATLY 
expedited the process of destroying the shaft. :-) Luckily, that was a 1971 
lip-n-nut pulley; next step was to get the Proper Tool, which zipped it 
right off nicely.

I too have the cheeseball HFS tool, expected it to last about 0.5 pulls, it 
has done several, still in good repair. I got it on sale, $10 the set; 
bought 2 sets, one for the boonies location. Absolutely must have that tool 
to remove a pulley to remove the cam covers from the Northstar motors I had 
for a while there.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfeeŽ 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 22:23:06 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

At 04:44 PM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Maybe this will help? I haven't heard of plugs ever being discontinued or in
>short supply.
>
>http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm
>
>My suggestion would be, R45TSX @ .060 gap.
>Pat Swanton.

I've just changed the plugs in my '88 full-sized wagon's 307. Delco has
discontinued using the original FR3LS6 designation for these plugs and now
refers to them by 41-81360 or some such number. Outwardly, they look the
same except the exterior insulator is now straight and doesn't have the
flutes in the ceramic that Delco plugs have always had.

Inwardly, I'm disappointed. Although the insulator and electrode look the
same, I noticed that of the eight plugs I got, only TWO of them are
actually centered properly within the plug shell: the insulator on six
plugs is clearly off-center at least a little bit. Looking at my old plugs,
only one appears off-center and all the other seven look perfectly
centered. I haven't looked at the plugs I changed two years ago yet but
I've never noticed off-center insulators like this before.

Something to watch out for in an race engine, I spose  ;o(

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 18:37:13 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: fuel tank sending unit

I missed most of the discussion, I guess, I gather someone needs a fuel tank 
sending unit for a ???

I have at this time one on eVil
1967 Cutlass, not AC or 442 [1 line only, but you can alter that if 
necessary]

The guy who suggested donor cars as sources obviously lives nowhere near MI. 
All such devices are long since rusted away here. The tubes rot away, the 
whole face of the thing rots away, there's just nothing left to use or fix.

That's what makes this one so special. It is PRISTINE. Had one guy seeking 
one, so I quoted a price for the typical MI unit, he says OK. I find instead 
this sweet out of state item, sent him pix showing its condition, he was 
suddenly not interested in the primo part at $50. Suit yourself.. I see 
someone else IS interested in it at $50 plus $4.42 for eBay's fees.  If you 
need a driver quality part, it's a great alternative to the $150 new unit.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfeeŽ 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 19:53:35 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

> http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm
>
> My suggestion would be, R45TSX @ .060 gap.



The T means tapered seat in Delco nomenclature.  Won't fit an Olds prior to
the swirl port 307.  R44SX or R45SX should work fine, but these are becoming
hard to get these days as well.

The R44SX translates to R - resistor, 44 - heat range (higher numbers are
hotter, lower numbers colder), S - extended tip, X - wide gap.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 20:52:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Amadei <stephen@amadei.com>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

On Fri, 30 Apr 2004, Don Sowers wrote:

> > expire and get our bonuses this quarter/year/whatever.  IF  YOU WANT
> > TO SEE VEHICLES THAT ARE BUILT WITH LOVE AND CARE, LOOK FOR JUST ABOUT
> > ANY OF THEM BUILT/DESIGNED BY CAR PEOPLE....not those caring about
> > bonuses and the like.  Cars like the Camaro, Firebird, Vette, Mustang,
> > etc, they were built by car people who had the liberty and authority
> > to design them and look over them.  Then look at the products of the
> > 80s where the only differences were the headlights, grille, bumper
> > cover and taillights and rear bumper covers and tell me that those
> > people had ANY authority to do anything without committee approval.
> > BAH HUMBUG on them all!  One of the few new cars coming out right now
> > that makes my interest jump is the 2005 Mustang.  It has soul, it has
> > style, it has individuality,
> <snip>
> What does GrandMa have as an answer?

Well, for the most part, I agree with your setiments, but I do feel that
the '06 Pontiac Solstice and to a lesser degree the new GTO both have
soul, style and individuality.  Granted, the GTO isn't build in the good
ol' USA and the Solstice will start life with a 4 banger... but it's still
170-210hp in a 2700 pound package.  And both are RWD... the 'Kappa'
platform is said to be a mini-Corvette.  The first person to
slip a V8 into the Solstice will have a hell of a ride.  Too bad I dislike
the name 'Solstice'.  And its targeted to be $20K.

At least its a start.  GM has to see the writing on the wall for SUVs.
Another gas crunch is going to put a hurt on that racket.

> > answer that I can see.  Nor does Daimler/Chrysler.

Well, what about the new 300C and Magnum?  A V8 Hemi (well, not a _real_
Hemi) in a RWD chassis?!?  If they build a coupe version, its going to be
_very_ tempting one day.

> > well get used to seeing them, because Ford is going to sell a LOAD of
> > them......

Ford I think has hit a home run with the new Mustang, no doubt.  Lets hope
some of this rubs off on the other Detroit carmakers.

					----Steve
Stephen Amadei
Dandy.NET!  CTO/CSO
Atlantic City, NJ

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 01:10:38 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

At 07:53 PM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm
>>
>> My suggestion would be, R45TSX @ .060 gap.
>
>
>
>The T means tapered seat in Delco nomenclature.  Won't fit an Olds prior to
>the swirl port 307.

?????????????  The original FR3LS6 used in the roller-cammed 307 had
tapered seats????? Ummm..... uh-oh.....  ===========8-O

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 21:42:08 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c

At 10:21 PM 04/30/2004 -0700, Joe Varley wrote:
>I have used Freeze 12 in 3-4 cars, works great for about $ 10.00 per can.

Funny you should mention that.... I had to work at the Trenton store today,
and they had a few cans of that left.  I figure "great, I can use them!"
Especially since this lonely R-12 recharge kit was sitting there, lonely,
forlorn, and looking for a home.  (the kind with the hose, and the valve
with the piercing end).

Alas, even Freeze-12 requires the store to ask for proof of certification!
What they hey?  I thought the purpose of Freeze-12 was to not damage the
ozone!


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

PS:  I'm all for avoiding ozone depletion, having sunburned my back quite
impressively while changing brakes yesterday.  I'm of Middle Eastern
descent, darn it, and am not supposed to sunburn!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 21:37:41 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

> The R44SX translates to R - resistor, 44 - heat range (higher numbers are
> hotter, lower numbers colder),

One correction here.  The first 4 is actually the thread size, representing
14 mm.  The second number is the heat range.  These run from 0 to 9.  Lower
numbers are colder, higher numbers are hotter.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 21:45:16 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

> ?????????????  The original FR3LS6 used in the roller-cammed 307 had
> tapered seats????? Ummm..... uh-oh.....

- ---------------

I may have brain farted on that.  It has been at least two years since I
have had to deal with plugs on a roller 307.  Pull one on your car and have
a look. The difference is obvious.  I know they are the later smaller style
plug and will not fit the '84 and older Olds engines.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 01:49:54 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

At 01:10 AM 5/2/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>At 07:53 PM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>>> http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm
>>>
>>> My suggestion would be, R45TSX @ .060 gap.
>>
>>
>>
>>The T means tapered seat in Delco nomenclature.  Won't fit an Olds prior to
>>the swirl port 307.
>
>?????????????  The original FR3LS6 used in the roller-cammed 307 had
>tapered seats????? Ummm..... uh-oh.....  ===========8-O

Nope, turns out even the FR3LS6 plugs weren't tapered-seat: just looked at
an old set from the basement and their seat is straight, not tapered.
(.... whew....  ;o)

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 01:56:09 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c

At 09:42 PM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Alas, even Freeze-12 requires the store to ask for proof of certification!
>What they hey?  I thought the purpose of Freeze-12 was to not damage the
>ozone!

Oh hey, Joe, even *I* already got my certification ;o)  Just go to this site:
http://www.imaca.org/sg-all.htm

Takes an hour or so of reading then take the test and pays your money and
away you goes  :o)  You can go back to the store in the morning, present
yer printed-out "card", and get those last cupla cans afore someone else does.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 19:04:29 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Plug recommendation

> > The R44SX translates to R - resistor, 44 - heat range (higher numbers are
> > hotter, lower numbers colder),
>
> One correction here.  The first 4 is actually the thread size, representing
> 14 mm.  The second number is the heat range.  These run from 0 to 9.  Lower
> numbers are colder, higher numbers are hotter.
>

I actually found some R46SZ (z = extended gap), thought I'd try them out. I was told the RJ12YC crosses over to an R45S.
This plug should be one stage hotter with the .060" gap. I'll try them and see how they work out. I guess if they work
I'll have to load up on them.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 00:51:02 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: fuel tank sending unit rebuild.

Hello
Seeing how this is the topic recent i will throw in .02.
I just spent 3 days droppin the 58 tank and rebuilding the sender 2 times.
The sender was a pain,,not much to solder to on top any mo.
The orig connector was real wide and would grd. on housing,so mod, a little thinner for clearance.
The reostate thingy inside(wrapped wire half moon) had to be glued on top at fiber and the bottom solder to case.
Dont ferget to make sure the wire is connected well on top o tank.
And test sending unit grding to trunk somewhere before install in tank to confirm proper gauge readings movin arm/float up and down.
For added excitement i relocated fuel pump behind rear bumper lower then tank level.
Oh the joys of senders and plumbing!
Good luck!
Randy H.
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1080952808058_0410_015.jpg 
Maple Ditch B.C.
Triple dees
Windy
Bumobile

__________________________________________________________________
Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. 
Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

Netscape. Just the Net You Need. 

New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4875
*********************************
