
oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 20 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4862



Re: Rear main seal
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
Re: Harmonic Balancer Bolt
Anyone have the latest Year One discount code?
Re:Rear main seal
Holley 750 DP too rich
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
RE: Rear main seal
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
Re: what's in a name
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
Re: 70 Cutlass S front bumper needed
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
RE: 1970 442
[Dallas/Ft. Worth] Pate Swap Meet end of April
Seeking Parts, 1970 Cutlass
Re: what's in a name
RE: Silhouette/Transport/etc Turn Signal Problem
WAS:Rear main seal  NOW:  Intake Sealing
Re: Front end alignment questions
RE: Silhouette/Transport/etc Turn Signal Problem
Fw: Hurst "Sidewinder" Shift Knobs
Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
RE: 1970 442

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:18:05 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal

> didn't think it would be a problem. He felt that the
> knurling is more aggressive than on other cranks. His
> concern is more that the oil in the galleries after
> shutting down might weep a little.


It shouldn't. Gravity should be much more of an effect, specifically on a
hot engine. The hot oil should run right through the area and ignore the
seal, using the path of least resistance.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:23:09 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

Milton,
You are one hundred % correct. It isn't worth the aggravation.
With normal everyday driving or weekends for that matter, I can go by the
tripometer. I can toss it up as a lesson learned.
I think I still have the rallye pack gauges and ill try to incorporate that
in to the dash. Its a shame I had a custom dash panel made for all the
gauges.
Thanks for your imput.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite


> I've never seen a stock sending unit work with an aftermarket fuel gauge
> like a Stewart Warner or Autometer. But there is another problem. The
sender
> units for SW and Autometer are designed for use in square or round fuel
> tanks. The non-regular shapes of most OEM gas tanks will throw off the way
> the aftermarket sender reads to fuel level. I have a SW fuel gauge in
> Thunder and had to use the SW sender in her gas tank. To get even a
remotely
> accurate reading, I mounted the sender in the very top center of the gas
> tank, which means there's a hole cut in the trunk floor to access the
> sender. Then, automotive sealing putty is placed between the top of the
gas
> tank and the bottom of the trunk floor to keep crap out of the trunk. It
> works, it's not necessarily pretty, and the gas tank sender is still only
> about 75% accurate. Over time with use, I have learned to understand what
> the fuel gauge indication means as to fuel load status.
>
> If I had it to do all over again, I would figure out a way to incorporate
> the stock fuel gauge into her custom dash panel. The SW or Autometer gauge
> isn't worth the aggravation.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 2:02 PM
> Subject: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hello list,
> > I've been reading the what Randy Hermson wrote about his fuel gauge
> problems
> > in hopes for a cure for mine. It is a '78 Cutlass, stock tank and
sender,
> > Auto Meter fuel gauge. My problem is, when I fill it up, 18 gallons, the
> > gauge only reads 3/4's full. I was told by someone else that I need to
> > change my stock sender. Can anyone else verify this?
> > Thank you.
> > Pat Swanton.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:26:13 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer Bolt

>That can be dangerous if those holes are in the outer rubber mounted
>harmonic ring. You could break the ring loose and destroy the harmonic
>balancer.

Agreed; this particular one was a solid piece. From the amount of torque 
required to crack it loose initially, and lock it again afterwards, a 
rubber-insert design would have probably sheared in two under those 
circumstances...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! 
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 12:29:51 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: Anyone have the latest Year One discount code?

All,
	As the subject reads I was wondering if anyone has the latest Year
One discount code.

Thanks,


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:29:52 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:Rear main seal

I just finished the dyno run of my freshly rebuilt 455. The crank has
the grooves in it, and I did nothing to remove them. I used a Victor
Reintz rear seal that is a Olds part number and sold by NAPA. I
installed it per the instructions to the letter. I did not offset the
halves and I did not use any sealer on the ends. The factory service
manual shows that you need to apply a very small amount of sealer to the
block and end cap area around the seal.

3 hours on the dyno up to 5200 RPM and no leaks.

The RTV that I used at the back of intake in lieu of the rubber seal did
leak, however.............(:

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:34:25 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Holley 750 DP too rich

Hello listers,
I finally got the Holley 750 rebuilt, and I dropped the floats to spec
level. It was running rich. I dropped the primary float level even more and
it is still dumping gas into the primaries at a fast rate. With the choke
open all the way, rpm's are at 3000.
When I close the choke to where it should be at idle it floods out and
stalls. I pulled all the plugs and regapped them to 45*. I was told the gap
for a '74 350 rocket was @ 80*. Is that right? What else can I adjust to
lean out the carb?
The carb I.D. # is 3310. I also didn't get the secondary diaphram with the
rebuild kit, but I don't think that has anything to do with the idle.
Thanks in advance.
Pat Swanton.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:44:08 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

> Would it be reasonable to try a can of Bar's Leak in this thing, or do I
> risk making things worse instead of better?


I'm pouring in a 16 ounce bottle of Bar's Leak into the Pontiac Transport.


Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 12:52:24 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Rear main seal

 > The RTV that I used at the back of intake in lieu of the 
 > rubber seal did
 > leak, however.............(:
 > 
 > Paul Tumolo
 > 1970 442 Hardtop
 > OCA # 31967

Arggg.   I hate that.  I will be doing my intake again, this week or next to correct the same problem.  This time I will use the rubber seals.  But I'm going to use a thin layer of RTV under the seal to glue it in place.  I'll let it sit over night before installing the intake.  I also plan on puttng a layer of RTV  on top of the seal.  Along with duct tape, JB -weld, super glue and anything else I can find. :)  I will not have a leaking intake!

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:04:08 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

swanny wrote:
> Milton,
> You are one hundred % correct. It isn't worth the aggravation.
> With normal everyday driving or weekends for that matter, I can go by the
> tripometer. I can toss it up as a lesson learned.
> I think I still have the rallye pack gauges and ill try to incorporate that
> in to the dash. Its a shame I had a custom dash panel made for all the
> gauges.
> Thanks for your imput.
> Pat Swanton.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
> 
> 
> 
>>I've never seen a stock sending unit work with an aftermarket fuel gauge
>>like a Stewart Warner or Autometer. But there is another problem. The
> 
> sender
> 
>>units for SW and Autometer are designed for use in square or round fuel
>>tanks. The non-regular shapes of most OEM gas tanks will throw off the way
>>the aftermarket sender reads to fuel level. I have a SW fuel gauge in
>>Thunder and had to use the SW sender in her gas tank. To get even a
> 
> remotely
> 
>>accurate reading, I mounted the sender in the very top center of the gas
>>tank, which means there's a hole cut in the trunk floor to access the
>>sender. Then, automotive sealing putty is placed between the top of the
> 
> gas
> 
>>tank and the bottom of the trunk floor to keep crap out of the trunk. It
>>works, it's not necessarily pretty, and the gas tank sender is still only
>>about 75% accurate. Over time with use, I have learned to understand what
>>the fuel gauge indication means as to fuel load status.
>>
>>If I had it to do all over again, I would figure out a way to incorporate
>>the stock fuel gauge into her custom dash panel. The SW or Autometer gauge
>>isn't worth the aggravation.
>>
>>Milton Schick
>>1964 442 Cutlass
>>imp@theriver.com
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
>>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 2:02 PM
>>Subject: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Hello list,
>>>I've been reading the what Randy Hermson wrote about his fuel gauge
>>
>>problems
>>
>>>in hopes for a cure for mine. It is a '78 Cutlass, stock tank and
> 
> sender,
> 
>>>Auto Meter fuel gauge. My problem is, when I fill it up, 18 gallons, the
>>>gauge only reads 3/4's full. I was told by someone else that I need to
>>>change my stock sender. Can anyone else verify this?
>>>Thank you.
>>>Pat Swanton.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
Pat
   There is a bunch in Indiana who can set your tank unit to work with 
your gauge but you will have to send them both in. Try clocksandgauges.com.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:20:47 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: what's in a name

At Tuesday, 20 April 2004, you wrote:

>is it 200r4 or 2004r
>
>Doing a google search on both reveals the same 4 speed auto, 
>but under different names...

Neither: it's 200-4R.

The Ch*bby-only one is 700-R4, just the opposite.

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
===================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:30:45 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite


> swanny wrote:
> > Milton,
> > You are one hundred % correct. It isn't worth the aggravation.
> > With normal everyday driving or weekends for that matter, I can go by
the
> > tripometer. I can toss it up as a lesson learned.
> > I think I still have the rallye pack gauges and ill try to incorporate
that
> > in to the dash. Its a shame I had a custom dash panel made for all the
> > gauges.
> > Thanks for your imput.
> > Pat Swanton.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
> >
> >
> >
> >>I've never seen a stock sending unit work with an aftermarket fuel gauge
> >>like a Stewart Warner or Autometer. But there is another problem. The
> >
> > sender
> >
> >>units for SW and Autometer are designed for use in square or round fuel
> >>tanks. The non-regular shapes of most OEM gas tanks will throw off the
way
> >>the aftermarket sender reads to fuel level. I have a SW fuel gauge in
> >>Thunder and had to use the SW sender in her gas tank. To get even a
> >
> > remotely
> >
> >>accurate reading, I mounted the sender in the very top center of the gas
> >>tank, which means there's a hole cut in the trunk floor to access the
> >>sender. Then, automotive sealing putty is placed between the top of the
> >
> > gas
> >
> >>tank and the bottom of the trunk floor to keep crap out of the trunk. It
> >>works, it's not necessarily pretty, and the gas tank sender is still
only
> >>about 75% accurate. Over time with use, I have learned to understand
what
> >>the fuel gauge indication means as to fuel load status.
> >>
> >>If I had it to do all over again, I would figure out a way to
incorporate
> >>the stock fuel gauge into her custom dash panel. The SW or Autometer
gauge
> >>isn't worth the aggravation.
> >>
> >>Milton Schick
> >>1964 442 Cutlass
> >>imp@theriver.com
> >>
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> >>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >>Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 2:02 PM
> >>Subject: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Hello list,
> >>>I've been reading the what Randy Hermson wrote about his fuel gauge
> >>
> >>problems
> >>
> >>>in hopes for a cure for mine. It is a '78 Cutlass, stock tank and
> >
> > sender,
> >
> >>>Auto Meter fuel gauge. My problem is, when I fill it up, 18 gallons,
the
> >>>gauge only reads 3/4's full. I was told by someone else that I need to
> >>>change my stock sender. Can anyone else verify this?
> >>>Thank you.
> >>>Pat Swanton.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Pat
>    There is a bunch in Indiana who can set your tank unit to work with
> your gauge but you will have to send them both in. Try
clocksandgauges.com.
> LOL
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:32:29 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass S front bumper needed

- --part1_109.2f725d80.2db6c6bd_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Any California List members in the Livermore area have a 70 front bumper for 
sale?  That is in the northern area of CA, closer to San Fran.  If anyone has 
something for sale, please contact Tommie at tcrawford@APIINC.NET  Thanks for 
any assistance you can give this gentleman.
Steve D 
    


- --part1_109.2f725d80.2db6c6bd_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Any California List members in the=20=
Livermore area have a 70 front bumper for sale?&nbsp; That is in the norther=
n area of CA, closer to San Fran.&nbsp; If anyone has something for sale, pl=
ease contact Tommie at <A HREF=3D"mailto:tcrawford@APIINC.NET">tcrawford@API=
INC.NET</A>&nbsp; Thanks for any assistance you can give this gentleman.<BR>
Steve D <BR>
    <BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
- --part1_109.2f725d80.2db6c6bd_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:33:53 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

Thanks John, It is worth a shot to try anything. I still have to drop the
tank to put in an autometer sender, and if the price is right with clocks
and gauges, I'll go for it.
Thanks
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite


> swanny wrote:
> > Milton,
> > You are one hundred % correct. It isn't worth the aggravation.
> > With normal everyday driving or weekends for that matter, I can go by
the
> > tripometer. I can toss it up as a lesson learned.
> > I think I still have the rallye pack gauges and ill try to incorporate
that
> > in to the dash. Its a shame I had a custom dash panel made for all the
> > gauges.
> > Thanks for your imput.
> > Pat Swanton.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
> >
> >
> >
> >>I've never seen a stock sending unit work with an aftermarket fuel gauge
> >>like a Stewart Warner or Autometer. But there is another problem. The
> >
> > sender
> >
> >>units for SW and Autometer are designed for use in square or round fuel
> >>tanks. The non-regular shapes of most OEM gas tanks will throw off the
way
> >>the aftermarket sender reads to fuel level. I have a SW fuel gauge in
> >>Thunder and had to use the SW sender in her gas tank. To get even a
> >
> > remotely
> >
> >>accurate reading, I mounted the sender in the very top center of the gas
> >>tank, which means there's a hole cut in the trunk floor to access the
> >>sender. Then, automotive sealing putty is placed between the top of the
> >
> > gas
> >
> >>tank and the bottom of the trunk floor to keep crap out of the trunk. It
> >>works, it's not necessarily pretty, and the gas tank sender is still
only
> >>about 75% accurate. Over time with use, I have learned to understand
what
> >>the fuel gauge indication means as to fuel load status.
> >>
> >>If I had it to do all over again, I would figure out a way to
incorporate
> >>the stock fuel gauge into her custom dash panel. The SW or Autometer
gauge
> >>isn't worth the aggravation.
> >>
> >>Milton Schick
> >>1964 442 Cutlass
> >>imp@theriver.com
> >>
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> >>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >>Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 2:02 PM
> >>Subject: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Hello list,
> >>>I've been reading the what Randy Hermson wrote about his fuel gauge
> >>
> >>problems
> >>
> >>>in hopes for a cure for mine. It is a '78 Cutlass, stock tank and
> >
> > sender,
> >
> >>>Auto Meter fuel gauge. My problem is, when I fill it up, 18 gallons,
the
> >>>gauge only reads 3/4's full. I was told by someone else that I need to
> >>>change my stock sender. Can anyone else verify this?
> >>>Thank you.
> >>>Pat Swanton.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Pat
>    There is a bunch in Indiana who can set your tank unit to work with
> your gauge but you will have to send them both in. Try
clocksandgauges.com.
> LOL
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:39:39 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

Pat,

> Its a shame I had a custom dash panel made for all the
> gauges.


Or if possible, use the stock fuel gauge, keep the custom panel, and pick
out another useful gauge to replace the Autometer fuel gauge, like a vacuum
gauge, another temperature gauge (maybe for oil, engine or trans),
transmission pressure, fuel pressure, etc.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:49:43 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

Milton,
thats a good idea. Why didn't I think of that. :-)
Thanks.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite


> Pat,
>
> > Its a shame I had a custom dash panel made for all the
> > gauges.
>
>
> Or if possible, use the stock fuel gauge, keep the custom panel, and pick
> out another useful gauge to replace the Autometer fuel gauge, like a
vacuum
> gauge, another temperature gauge (maybe for oil, engine or trans),
> transmission pressure, fuel pressure, etc.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:53:19 -0500
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: 1970 442

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:41:23 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 442

Thanks Dave,

Noble she is -  I've got plans to restore her exterior and interior to factory appearance.  I would like to carry out a few changes to her braking, and rebuild the original Q-jet with a few changes and run that.  Keeping all the original parts of course.

I'm also going to research ways to improve the cornering, and especially focus on the front suspension.  To be honest, until this week, I've never driven nor had even a ride in an early 70's Cutlass or any A-body, but the stock cornering behaviour of this platform doesn't look too promising.  I appreciate any experience or previous research anyone has carried out with the hopes of improving that.  I know that Cliff Simpson has info on his site.     

Ian M.C.Dixon
Winnipeg, Canada
idixon@sbrc.ca

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Congrats Ian, you have a noble steed to resurect.  It sounds like you have 
all the parts to keep it close to original should you go that way and what 
you don't have is pretty much available now.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:14:58 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Dallas/Ft. Worth] Pate Swap Meet end of April

For anyone in the Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX area, the Annual Pate Swap Meet 
is April 29 - May 2 out at the Texas Motor speedway. Largest swap meet 
in the southwest!
http://www.pateswapmeet.com/

Kevin Wright                           krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX              
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/cars.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

A pile of first-gen RX-7s and a '70 Cutlass Sports Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:16:34 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: Seeking Parts, 1970 Cutlass

All,
	I'm looking for a few NOS parts that aren't available reproduction.

1.  Headlight Bezel
2.  Cigarette Bezel
3.  Heater/Fan Speed/Hot-Cold chrome Knobs

Also wondering if anyone has any excellent condition Door Sill Plates, for a
ragtop.

Any leads are appreciated!


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:26:55 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: what's in a name

Steve,

Thanks.... clears up allot.


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "SteveH" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: what's in a name


> At Tuesday, 20 April 2004, you wrote:
> 
> >is it 200r4 or 2004r
> >
> >Doing a google search on both reveals the same 4 speed auto, 
> >but under different names...
> 
> Neither: it's 200-4R.
> 
> The Ch*bby-only one is 700-R4, just the opposite.
> 
> SteveH
> 
> 
> 
> ===================================================================
> EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
> ===================================================================
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 19:28:15 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: RE: Silhouette/Transport/etc Turn Signal Problem



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:41:08 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: WAS:Rear main seal  NOW:  Intake Sealing

Mike,

>  > The RTV that I used at the back of intake in lieu of the  
> > rubber seal did  > leak, however.............(:
>  >
>  > Paul Tumolo
>  > 1970 442 Hardtop
>  > OCA # 31967
> 
> Arggg.   I hate that.  I will be doing my intake again, this 
> week or next to correct the same problem.  This time I will 
> use the rubber seals.  But I'm going to use a thin layer of 
> RTV under the seal to glue it in place.  I'll let it sit over 
> night before installing the intake.  I also plan on puttng a 
> layer of RTV  on top of the seal.  Along with duct tape, JB 
> -weld, super glue and anything else I can find. :)  I will 
> not have a leaking intake!
> 
>     mike
> 
> Mike Schlottman

A suggestion on using the end seals.  I've done both the RTV method and the
rubber end seals with great success.  To use the RTV, let it vulcanize for
about 5-10 minutes before you set the manifold on the engine, that way, it
will not be squeezed out so greatly like it would as if you just laid the
bead of RTV.

As far as the rubber end seals, take a small center punch, and dimple the
block and the intake manifold in the areas where the rubber seals sit.  I
then use a thin coat of High-Tack, or Aviation Sealant on each side of the
seal, and I've never had one leak or blow out.


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:08:58 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Front end alignment questions

Camber affects handling and cornering power. Camber is the angle setting
viewed from the front of the tire right to left of centerline. For corning
with a wide tire, the camber should be set at zero or slightly negative
(inboard) for maximum traction while cornering.

Caster is the forward (negative) or rearward (positive) tilt of the top of
the spindle. When the wheel is turned with the car in motion, positive
caster generates a self-centering force, which exerts a force on the tires
that usually returns them to straight ahead position, however, positive
caster will interfere with cornering.

The Olds factory front end alignment specs for a '64 A-body are:
Caster = negative 1/2 to 1 1/2 degree
Camber = negative 1/4 degree to positive 1/2 degree
Toe in = 1/16" to 1/8"

The Olds factory front end alignment specs for a '65 A-body are:
Caster = negative 1/2 to 2 degree
Camber = negative 1/4 degree to positive 1/2 degree
Toe in = 1/8" to 3/16"

Thunder Lizard is set at:
Caster = negative 2 degree
Camber = negative 1/2 degree
Toe in = 1/4"

You should not be having any problems in turning either direction and no
right side drift. It doesn't appear as if the alignment settings are
correct.

I believe that you should contact your local speed shop and ask them for a
recommendation for a good front end alignment shop that knows how to align a
front end for cornering, if that's what you want, or does a good alignment
job to begin with.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
To: "OLDS LIST (E-mail)" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 5:59 AM
Subject: Front end alignment questions


> Rebuilt the 69 442 front end this past weekend. Changed out just about
> everything. Went and had it aligned afterwards and this is where the
> confusion starts. The guys doing the alignment called me to double check
the
> caster setting. (Disclosure statement: I know ZILCH about front end
> settings). We was concerned because the Factory settings were calling out
a
> negative castor. I told him to set it to what the factory specified. When
I
> picked up the car, he said that he set it to the specs but it feels
> "squirrly" to him. He did say that the rebuild looked great. I drove it
home
> and noticed these things.
>
> It seems to want to center up and drift to the right.
>
> Turning left, I get smooth steering action (sounds like an ad slogan)
>
> Turning right, I get an initial resistance, then smooth turns.
>
> Any ideas on this? Could this resistance be caused by any settings or is
> something binding up? What does negative castor effect?
>
>
> Pat Clark
> IGNITION INC.
> P 972-516-8700
> F 972-516-8690

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 20:06:58 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Silhouette/Transport/etc Turn Signal Problem

62oldsfan@comcast.net writes:
>[...nothing...]

Check your battery connections.  :-)

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 16:25:16 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Fw: Hurst "Sidewinder" Shift Knobs

Just in case anybody with a H/O was interested.
Pat Swanton
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr Gasket Performance Group" <mrgasket@mrgasket.com>
To: <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 12:45 PM
Subject: Hurst "Sidewinder" Shift Knobs


>
>
> Cleveland,Ohio(April 2004)  The Hurst "Sidewinder" Shift Knob is equipped
with a side button switch conveniently located for driver hand comfort,
which can be used for Roll/Control&reg; or nitrous operation.
>
> This knob features a HD quick release "normally open" 12V switch, and
measures 2" in diameter with threaded brass insert.  It is available for all
Hurst Quarter Stick shifters with 7/16"-20 thread and Hurst Comp/Plus
chrome-plated shifter sticks having 3/8"-16 threads. Supplied with a jam
nut, and available in black only.
>
> Sidewinder Shift Knob with 3/8"-16 thread: Part #163 0069
> Sidewinder Shift Knob with 7/16"-20 thread: Part #163 0070
>
> FOR TECHNICAL QUESTIONS, please visit our website at www.mrgasket.com and
hit the "Ask Tech" button.
> TO BE REMOVED FROM THIS MAILING LIST, please reply to this e-mail with the
Subject "Remove".  Thank you!
>
>
>
> Subscription Information
> This e-mail was sent to: swannys78@adelphia.net.
>
> You have received this email because you subscribed with Mr. Gasket and
agreed to receive e-mail.
> If you received this message in error or wish to be removed from this
mailing list please click on or copy the unsubscribe link below.
>
>
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>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:35:38 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich

> I finally got the Holley 750 rebuilt, and I dropped the floats to spec
> level. It was running rich. I dropped the primary float level even more
and
> it is still dumping gas into the primaries at a fast rate.


The correct float setting is with the engine running, the sight plug
removed, and a very thin dribble of gas just barely washing out of the hole
for the sight plug.

Either the needle and seat are bad or some debris is blocking the needle
open. There isn't much else it could be.

Except, you did match the new bowl and metering plate gaskets to your old
ones, didn't you? There are different gaskets. I can't remember if a wrong
gasket could cause a runaway fuel problem, but I do know a wrong gasket can
block a needed passage and the carb won't flow gas at the right place.

Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
engine?


> I pulled all the plugs and regapped them to 45*. I was told the gap
> for a '74 350 rocket was @ 80*. Is that right?


Not to me. 0.045" is close enough to not put a strain on your HEI to jump
the gap. 0.080" puts a real load on the HEI's system to fire that gap. There
are supposed to be real advantages to running a very wide gap, but I only
run 0.035" on my MSD 7AL. Also, the wider the gap, the more heat generated
at the gap, which erodes the electrodes. That's why typical spark plug gaps
for a magneteo are only 0.015".


> What else can I adjust to
> lean out the carb?


It's not an adjustment. You have a component malfunctioning.


> The carb I.D. # is 3310.


One of the most popular Holleys ever sold.


> I also didn't get the secondary diaphram with the
> rebuild kit, but I don't think that has anything to do with the idle.


No, that wouldn't affect your current problem, but it's inexcusable the part
wasn't in the kit.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:08:07 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich

Milton,
there were two gaskets for the primary metering plate, one has the top lip
of the metering gasket removed and the other doesn't. I used the one that
was identical to the one that on the carb. In this case it had the small
accelerator hole. Not the cut out.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------
Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
> primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
> engine?
I also didn't get any other parts with this kit. # 37-754.
So I didn't even know that there were any back-fire protectors available. I
can tell by looking at the old power valve that it was bad. It was dry
rotted. I am going to take the bowl back off and check the seats, blow out
any debris, and check to see if the float tangs got damaged when I took the
old gasket off. Every gasket was glued to everything when seperated. It was
a tedious task and the possibility of dirt or a bent float could of
happened. I was careful to blow out every orifice with 20 lbs. of air before
reassembly.
Pat Swanton.







- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich


> > I finally got the Holley 750 rebuilt, and I dropped the floats to spec
> > level. It was running rich. I dropped the primary float level even more
> and
> > it is still dumping gas into the primaries at a fast rate.
>
>
> The correct float setting is with the engine running, the sight plug
> removed, and a very thin dribble of gas just barely washing out of the
hole
> for the sight plug.
>
> Either the needle and seat are bad or some debris is blocking the needle
> open. There isn't much else it could be.
>
> Except, you did match the new bowl and metering plate gaskets to your old
> ones, didn't you? There are different gaskets. I can't remember if a wrong
> gasket could cause a runaway fuel problem, but I do know a wrong gasket
can
> block a needed passage and the carb won't flow gas at the right place.
>
> Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
> primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
> engine?
>
>
> > I pulled all the plugs and regapped them to 45*. I was told the gap
> > for a '74 350 rocket was @ 80*. Is that right?
>
>
> Not to me. 0.045" is close enough to not put a strain on your HEI to jump
> the gap. 0.080" puts a real load on the HEI's system to fire that gap.
There
> are supposed to be real advantages to running a very wide gap, but I only
> run 0.035" on my MSD 7AL. Also, the wider the gap, the more heat generated
> at the gap, which erodes the electrodes. That's why typical spark plug
gaps
> for a magneteo are only 0.015".
>
>
> > What else can I adjust to
> > lean out the carb?
>
>
> It's not an adjustment. You have a component malfunctioning.
>
>
> > The carb I.D. # is 3310.
>
>
> One of the most popular Holleys ever sold.
>
>
> > I also didn't get the secondary diaphram with the
> > rebuild kit, but I don't think that has anything to do with the idle.
>
>
> No, that wouldn't affect your current problem, but it's inexcusable the
part
> wasn't in the kit.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 16:10:55 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 442

The 70 4-4-2 was suppose to handle better than a 70 Corvette, according to 
some review at the time.  My car handles great especialy after I went with 
radial tires.  The 4-4-2 came with better suspension than the average A 
body, so it's definitely a better handling car from that era.  I know some 
guys add poly bushings and all that, but unless you plan on slalom racing, 
the stock 4-4-2 parts work pretty good.



Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4862
*********************************
