
oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 20 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4896



Re: OT  Custom License Plates
Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2
Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???
an addition to the flock-NON Olds
Re: One of those days...(Way too long) 
Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2
RE: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2
engine block weights
block storage
Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???
Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2
350 + tranny in Seattle!!
Looking for "carrot" living in Mass
OT....Trip
Re: 58s  MSD ect
Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end
Yee-hah
Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end
Re: Yee-hah
Re: Yee-hah
Re: Yee-hah
Re: block storage
Re: block storage
RE: Yee-hah
Re: Value of Mondello BB heads? -- not much
Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end
Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 16:39:43 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: OT  Custom License Plates

> Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:17:24 -0500
> From: "spddemun" <kkas@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: OT  Custom License Plates
> 
> That is interesting.  I have not heard about using old 
> plates, but have seen them on cars here in TX.  Is there 
> a risk of the old plates being officially registered to 
> a previous owner?

Texas mandates that you get new plates after 7 years, so unless the 
'70 plates are in use as "antique" plates they should be long retired.
 
> If I recall, we also have another plate that is for Classic 
> cars, 25 years or older, but no restrictions on driving (like the Antique 
> plates) and can be used for everyday driver cars.

Yup, that's what I had on the '71 until I moved to AZ 5 years ago. TX mandates 
front and rear plates, and I couldn't locate ONE plate from '71 that was in good 
condition. 
 
Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 16:49:41 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2

Chris,

> 1. Regarding the Milodon timing chain.  While the box said Milodon, thats
not what was in the box.  There was slack in the chain.


Not good.


> 2. Regarding the rods.  A rod heater was used to install the pins, which
most engine shops use with NO problems.


Maybe now, but we never heated rods for any reason, and the Olds Shop Manual
confirms it.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 17:03:11 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???

> Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:35:23 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???
> 
> At 01:29 PM 5/18/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >> I agree 100%, especially if you live where it rains often. 
> Nothing quite
> >> like hitting a puddle of water and immediately losing your brakes.
> >
> >
> >One reason drum brakes fade out in rain puddles is that way 
> too many people
> >forget to make sure the rubber plugs are in place on the 
> back of the brake
> >backing plates on all 4 wheels. Those rubber plugs will 
> mostly prevent water
> >from entering the brake drum assembly and causing fade
> 
> In the olden days, we ole farts quickly learned to lightly 
> put the brakes
> on when we saw that we were gonna go through a puddle of any 
> depth. That
> keeps the water from getting between the shoes and drums.
> 
> SteveH

I guess I should have mentioned that these were Gulf Coast "puddles" - what 
I was remembering was driving through intersections where the water 
was halfway up the tire, and sometimes a foot or so past the rocker panels. 
I call it a rain puddle, you call it a flood during a tropical storm...
Such was life on the Gulf Coast.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
now in sunny Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 20:10:15 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@infionline.net>
Subject: an addition to the flock-NON Olds

First of all.......no Oldsmobiles were hurt or expended in the purchase 
of this off brand vehicle.

And no, I have not gone over to the other side even though my last two 
buys are ferrin.  I got really good deals on both of them, one (the 91 
300ZX twin turbo) that I bought last year, and the other one I think I 
bought today if my friendly banker remains a friendly banker as he said 
he would.  Today's throwing of money on the ground will result in me 
bringing home a 1995 Mercedes-Benz S320 with 81k on it a couple of days 
from now.  And as I am trying to learn a little more about this 
particular vehicle, I need to ask if anyone has an address for a Benz 
club on the web.  This is really silly, because the car I bought was 
traded in by one of my best friends last weekend so you would think I 
could get anything I needed to know from him.  But I am interested in 
breaking down the option codes and he doesn't have any paperwork on that 
issue.  So, once again I thought I would see if anyone on the list could 
direct me towards one of these lists to enable me to reduce the lack of 
knowledge I have on these cars.  I have driven three of them over the 
years on test drives, but this is the first one I really thought drove 
like it should.  Therefore, it would appear I am now in the white car 
business as both of these are white exteriors, one with gray leather 
(M-B) and one with black (the 300). 

I guess you know this means I will shoving my already dust covered 
Oldsmobiles and the GS455 ragtop into the "long term restoration" world 
even deeper at the moment due to the aforementioned tossing of money 
into the economy.  But the long term results should be in my favor as I 
redo some things, so it is possible I will be less indebted at the end 
of this year than I am now.  One can hope that is the case anyway, 
otherwise the wife and daughters might be up for sale.  :)
(Just kidding, I have WAY too much invested in them to come out ahead on 
that trade.)  Next up on the agenda is finishing up the Silverado (aka 
the Partsmobile) and about 4 or 5 other almost done daily cars in 
preparation for the masive sell off.  Included in the carnage will be 
the well-worn 89 Town Car (aka the Mobile Office), a Bimmer and a 
Firebird convertible.  Could be an interesting summer to say the 
least..... 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 20:16:42 EDT
From: ChazToone@aol.com
Subject: Re: One of those days...(Way too long) 

In a message dated 5/19/2004 7:17:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
Subject: Re: One of those days...(Way too long)

Once, on my '66 F-85, I had a rubber fuel line split around the hose clamp, 
while the car was running, while in the drive thru lane of a Jack-In-The-Box.  
Major fuel fire.  I tried one of those soda-bottle-sized fire extinguishers, 
which lasted about 2 seconds.  The manager came out and put the fire out.  (I 
was under his roof overhang.)

I thought the worst, but new cap and plug wires, plus a few splices and the 
car was OK. Boy do those dry powder extigwishers make a cloud when you start 
the car.  After that I only use steel fuel lines from the pump to the carb.  I 
still had a problem once with fuel leakage around the filter fitting, which was 
stripped.  But nowhere near the flow I got with a cut line.

Charlie Toone
OCA Member# 22915
1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
1972 H/O (w/sunroof) - for a short while
1966 F-85 - my first car - long gone
ChazToone@aol.com
http://hometown.aol.com/chaztoone/myhomepage/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 17:53:00 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2

> > 2. Regarding the rods.  A rod heater was used to install the pins, which
>most engine shops use with NO problems.

Well, it isn't the shops problem any more once it is past its warranty time. ;)

If it is blue, it has to have been at 900 deg. C? If it had been that hot, 
any hardening that may have been done to the rod from the factory will get 
harmed. Embrittlement / grain growth is probably not likely unless you keep 
it up there for prolonged times, but if the rod had any hardening treatment 
from the factory, you will loose it going over 700C.

I have never seen rods like that and common sense tells me that you don't 
heat the daylight out of things that are structurally very important. The 
rods are the Achilles heels of your engine. I'd do some more research 
before believing your shop. Maybe that 'rod heater' heats a bit more than 
it should. 200-300C should be plenty to get it larger and still be a safe 
for the material. It also looks like that 'rod heater' may work with a 
flame. I'd rather see an induction heater on there, if I'd build it.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 21:15:02 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2

"Regarding the rods. A rod heater was used to install the pins, which 
most engine shops use with NO problems."

Chris, it is true that many machine shops have rod heaters into which 
they insert the small ends of the rods for heating before pin 
installation.  Personally I prefer Milton's method of freezing the 
piston pins to the lowest possible temperature first.  Regarding the rod 
heaters, my understanding is that they heat the rod end to around 
500-600 degrees to expand the metal.  Looking at the heat discoloration 
on your rods, I would guess that they were heated to 1000+ degrees which 
would suggest heating with a torch or a severely malfunctioning rod 
heater.  The discoloring of the metal is indicative that the metal's 
temper has been altered and without carefully controlled metallurgical 
conditions and the presence of the correct amounts of carbon or other 
substances, the temper change is likely an increase in hardness and 
brittleness.  Surface hardness is a good thing for some engine parts, 
but brittleness causes metal parts subjected to stress to fracture and 
break.

Again, I am not the strongest list member when it comes to metallurgy or 
mechanics of materials, just trying to convey what I remember of what I 
learned many years ago.

and for what it is worth, I have had several engines built where the 
machine shops used the rod heater method to assemble the rods & pistons 
and have NEVER seen rods turned color like that from a rod heater.

Michael Ecker

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 21:40:21 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: engine block weights

Does anyone know the weight of a '66-'67 400 bare block and a '68-'69 400
bare block?
TIA

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 21:43:13 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: block storage

What is the best way to store a machined bare block?

(No, not on its end next to the camshaft =:o )

TIA

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 18:46:29 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???

Kenneth,

I actually was referring to the same thing. In Tucson, there are no storm
drains. It doesn't take too much of a rain storm to put 10" of water in an
intersection. If the rubber plugs are not there, the drum brakes won't like
it. With the plugs in place, it'll take several of those intersections
before the drum brakes complain. The centrifugal motion of the drum
generally sweeps the water away from entering the brake assembly. Where the
problem occurs quicker is when the car is stopped in the center of the
intersection to make a left. Otherwise, the water can be forced out by the
rotating drum, which is in the center of the wheel wake.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???


> > Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:35:23 +0000
> > From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> > Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???
> >
> > At 01:29 PM 5/18/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> > >> I agree 100%, especially if you live where it rains often.
> > Nothing quite
> > >> like hitting a puddle of water and immediately losing your brakes.
> > >
> > >
> > >One reason drum brakes fade out in rain puddles is that way
> > too many people
> > >forget to make sure the rubber plugs are in place on the
> > back of the brake
> > >backing plates on all 4 wheels. Those rubber plugs will
> > mostly prevent water
> > >from entering the brake drum assembly and causing fade
> >
> > In the olden days, we ole farts quickly learned to lightly
> > put the brakes
> > on when we saw that we were gonna go through a puddle of any
> > depth. That
> > keeps the water from getting between the shoes and drums.
> >
> > SteveH
>
> I guess I should have mentioned that these were Gulf Coast "puddles" -
what
> I was remembering was driving through intersections where the water
> was halfway up the tire, and sometimes a foot or so past the rocker
panels.
> I call it a rain puddle, you call it a flood during a tropical storm...
> Such was life on the Gulf Coast.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> now in sunny Phoenix, AZ
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 18:49:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2

George is absolutely right.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: w-31 answers: timing chain and rods - take 2


>
> > > 2. Regarding the rods.  A rod heater was used to install the pins,
which
> >most engine shops use with NO problems.
>
> Well, it isn't the shops problem any more once it is past its warranty
time. ;)
>
> If it is blue, it has to have been at 900 deg. C? If it had been that hot,
> any hardening that may have been done to the rod from the factory will get
> harmed. Embrittlement / grain growth is probably not likely unless you
keep
> it up there for prolonged times, but if the rod had any hardening
treatment
> from the factory, you will loose it going over 700C.
>
> I have never seen rods like that and common sense tells me that you don't
> heat the daylight out of things that are structurally very important. The
> rods are the Achilles heels of your engine. I'd do some more research
> before believing your shop. Maybe that 'rod heater' heats a bit more than
> it should. 200-300C should be plenty to get it larger and still be a safe
> for the material. It also looks like that 'rod heater' may work with a
> flame. I'd rather see an induction heater on there, if I'd build it.
>
> George
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 18:54:39 -0700
From: Jared Applegate <jream001@comcast.net>
Subject: 350 + tranny in Seattle!!

Anyone in the Seattle area might be interested in this:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/zip/31643096.html

If it's not already been seen yet, people should probably check it out.

- - Jared

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 22:01:24 EDT
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
Subject: Looking for "carrot" living in Mass

- --part1_f6.3ada3693.2ddd6b74_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi, lost the e-mail of a guy I met at a show at a Marina in the North 
Hampton, Mass. area.. He has a very nice blue Cutlass Conv. I thought his e-mail had 
carrot in it.  Anyone know him?    Thanks, Ron (Rally Red 70 Conv)

- --part1_f6.3ada3693.2ddd6b74_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi, lost the e-mail of a guy I met=20=
at a show at a Marina in the North Hampton, Mass. area.. He has a very nice=20=
blue Cutlass Conv. I thought his e-mail had carrot in it.&nbsp; Anyone know=20=
him?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks, Ron (Rally Red 70 Conv)</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_f6.3ada3693.2ddd6b74_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 22:02:42 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: OT....Trip

Sorry this is off topic...but in a way its not....

I am going to be going to Oregon/Washinton June 22-29th and was wondering if
any members are out that way? I'll be flying into Portland,Oregon and going
to Longview,Washington. Spending most of my time in Longview but spending a
few days traveling around both states.

Just thought I might be able to meet some of the list members that live out
on the northwest coast!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 22:34:21 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Re: 58s  MSD ect

>"Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>>>>>>However, if
>>the engine doesn't see anything over 5000, it can be a moot "point." :-)))
>>>>>>>>>
>>>she is shiftin in drive at 4800-5000 the 342s are perfect.
>>>
>>>>>>>
>>Where the MSD system makes more power, 
>>MSD 6A system with a MSD Blaster coil, the plug fires in a series of rapid
>>multiples for 20 degrees of distributor rotor rotation at 45,000 volts. That
>>makes sure all air/fuel mass burns in the combustion chamber.
>>
>>
>>>>>>>""this sounds much better then points"" :)  !!!!
>>>
>>>
>>By the way, are you aware that a massive electromagnetic pulse, either from
>>the detonation of a nuclear weapon of from a directed energy weapon (the
>>cops are thinking about one to stop car engines), will stop any engine using
>>an electronic ignition but will have ***no*** affect on an engine that uses
>>a standard points distributor and ignition? Food for thought.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>Maybe i will keep the points?
>This will really help on those dark nights around midnight with the lights out doin 100mph with hidden tanks full of moonshine and smokey on me tail with a loaded electro cannon! :)
>
>Randy H.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 22:52:37 -0400
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end

Hi George,

I'm looking to do the same thing.  I took some time to scour the local
periodicals/wants ads - found a number of brand "C" rear ends, complete, but
needing total teardown and rebuild.  Cost usually between $350 - $700 (for
the "core") depending on condition etc.  Then I moved on to looking at brand
new and complete rearends built by specialty shops.  The cost difference
between these two avenues were marginal at best, depending on what you're
looking for.  With that said, I compared the prices of similar new units
from those at a local shop to those of Moser Engineering and Drivetrain
Specialists and again found prices to be within a few $100 of each not
counting shipping.

A new Chebby 12 bolt with your choice of gear ratio, 33 spline axles, your
choice of posi, and extra-strength aluminum cover was in the price range of
$1500 - $2000 from DTS, Moser, and local shop quote (assembled and ready to
run SANS brakes).  Quite a lot, yes, but when faced with a $500 used core
plus the cost of new parts and build up, not so bad considering everything,
including the housing and axle tubes are brandy new.

If you don't have any shops in your area that can provide you with a
solution, I'd check out the following sites:

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

http://www.moserengineering.com/

And for what it's worth, Moser built the Frod 9" that was in my '80 El Co
SS.  4:10s with Torino brakes and all types of no-way-it's-gonna-break
relief!  They did an excellent job.

Lastly, The Parts Place Inc. sells a repoped W-27 aluminum that fits Chebby
12 bolts - you'd have such a stealthy ninja rear end, no one would know (er,
um, that sounded a bit off)!

Good luck,

 ~ Dan

+++++++++++++++++++++++++
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 Post 4spd
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++++


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 12:25 AM
Subject: Reman / aftermarket rear end


> List:
>
> I'd like to get posi and a numerically higher ratio rear. I believe I have
> 2.78 now in the supreme. I turn 3k rpm at 90 mph with 70 aspect BFG 14
> radials! I'd like to bump it up a notch to get better around the city. I
> think a 3.4xx ratio would be ideal.
>
> I have a non olds rear end, something funky, I am positive it got changed
> along the cars life. So replacing the whole unit seems like a good idea.
> Instead of paying through the nose on a questionable used rear, I think a
> new one would be great!
>
> Where would I go for a fresh complete "turn key" rear? I wouldn't mind to
> get something more common than what's original to the car. Maybe a chevy
> rear like it came in the chevy a bodies? A 12 bolt? What is best in the GM
> rear world?
>
> Fill me in what to get and where!
>
> Cheers, George
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 20:46:10 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Yee-hah

Not really Oldsmobile related but interesting to those of us who appreciate rides of a two wheeled variety.
I saw one of these amazing rides today. They are available with a small block Chevy up to a 502HP 50s Big Block.

http://www.bosshossv8motorcycles.com/photogallery.htm

I think I have a great idea for the spare 350.....

Kevin 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 20:52:03 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end

Dan:

Thanks for taking the time to respond in such detail. I had found Moser 
after looking some yesterday. Their stuff looks great and it is all brand 
new. I like that!

The cutlass has the 350 that is only mildly built, so I wont need a rear 
that can take 800 horsepower and similar torque. But it would be nice to 
have something where I could change gears fairly easily (and inexpensively) 
and something that would take a mildly built big block (600 pounds of 
torque) if it ever comes to that.

I may find a shop locally but rates are so high, nothing is cheap around 
here. It really pays to go look elsewhere - e.g. in the midwest - and have 
it shipped in. There are a lot of machineshops here that operate that way! 
They send their machine work out of state, e.g. to NV and save a lot of 
money that way. Not only what you have to pay people to work for you is 
high, the overhead is killing the small businesses.

Anyway. I think 2k would be too much, but $1.5k would be bearable. So I 
will look at the info you provided.

 > Lastly, The Parts Place Inc. sells a repoped W-27 aluminum that fits Chebby
 > 12 bolts - you'd have such a stealthy ninja rear end ...

Hold on. I don't *need* a chevy rear, I just figgered it was more common 
and readily available with the A body mounts. If there is something real 
cool that is 'original' to my era, I'll look into it.

Off to do some surfing. That parts place rear probably costs more than my 
entire car!

George
71 cutlass supreme convertible (lame rear)
71 442 (stock posi, 2.78)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 21:24:34 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Yee-hah

Yup, the Boss is a very nice bike.  I met a guy in Yuma who had one, but 
his was only the 355.  It only has a 2 speed transmission.  He had no clue 
how fast the bike would run, but he did HAVE to shift to 2nd at 105 mph!!!!!!

M

At 08:46 PM 5/19/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Not really Oldsmobile related but interesting to those of us who 
>appreciate rides of a two wheeled variety.
>I saw one of these amazing rides today. They are available with a small 
>block Chevy up to a 502HP 50s Big Block.
>
>http://www.bosshossv8motorcycles.com/photogallery.htm
>
>I think I have a great idea for the spare 350.....
>
>Kevin

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 21:33:33 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Yee-hah

> Yup, the Boss is a very nice bike.  I met a guy in Yuma who had one, but 
> his was only the 355.  It only has a 2 speed transmission.  He had no clue 
> how fast the bike would run, but he did HAVE to shift to 2nd at 105 mph!!!!!!
> 


I read on the site they go 0-100 mph in 6 seconds and top out at 220 mph

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 22:36:16 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Yee-hah

> > Yup, the Boss is a very nice bike.

I don't think so. It is hideous. It is built around the idea of using a car 
engine! It is as wide as a tank and look at that car size radiator some of 
the things have. Yikes!

Building a V8 bike It is a fun idea for someone with fabrication skills as 
a back yard project. I would never pay money to roast my legs on V8 
headers! It is just proof that you can put a V8 in anything. You all 
remember the V8 chain saw. This bike is about as practical as a V8 chain 
saw! ;)

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 22:40:00 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: block storage

In a dry place, packed up but not completely sealed. E.g. use plastic foil. 
For rust prevention I would squirt the entire block with transmission 
fluid. Trans fluid sticks very nicely (better than motor oil or WD40). Make 
sure you visit the block every couple of months to see if there is any rust 
developing.

Orientation? Stand it on the bellhousing side, so the waterpump side looks up.

You see, this is why you should never machine a block until you are ready 
to put it back together.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 23:02:55 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: block storage

Spray a good rust inhibiting lubricant all over the block, such as CRC-556
or Ez-Ox. Put a heavy plastic bag over the block and tape it shut. Then
stand the block upright on the bellhousing end, sitting on a 3/4" piece of
plywood on a flat concrete floor.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: block storage


> What is the best way to store a machined bare block?
>
> (No, not on its end next to the camshaft =:o )
>
> TIA
>
> Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
> http://wmachines.shubes.net
> '65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
> '67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
> '92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 08:17:03 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Yee-hah

Hmmm. I guess I'm not "man enough". I saw these guys at Charlotte Motor Speedway a few years ago. Heard one of these crank up behind a crowd of people and thought it was a race car. You are right George. I don't care how "low" the center of gravity is, you still have an extra 300 pounds on there. That bike with the supercharger looks like a Zinger creation.

Eric Holcombe

- -----Original Message-----
<Building a V8 bike It is a fun idea for someone with fabrication skills as 
<a back yard project. I would never pay money to roast my legs on V8 
<headers! It is just proof that you can put a V8 in anything. You all 
<remember the V8 chain saw. This bike is about as practical as a V8 chain 
<saw! ;)

George

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 06:49:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Value of Mondello BB heads? -- not much

- --0-210019961-1085060983=:33145
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I dunno Chris. Do you believe everything people tell you? Especially 
around 
machine shops, I take everything with a grain of salt. In my 
experience, 
machine shops are a place where you can find some serious crooks. If 
claims 
like that are made by a place that has an interest to make a competitor 
look bad, I'd be very careful in believing the information.

With all the criticism the place receives, I do not believe that 
something 
like this would leave Mondellos shop. Likely, when the engine was sold, 
someone claimed that the heads were done by mondello and this 
information 
was taken for granted wishful thinking) by the following owners.
- --------------------------------
George,
The pics speak for themselves.  The owner of the F heads, Greg, sent them to Mondello.  Work was performed.  The heads were returned in a box with a return address from "Mondello Performance Products", the pic is there for all to see.  Bottom line, the owner of the heads was not happy with the work performed by Mondello Performance Products.  Eh, no matter.  I can't force you to do anything you don't want to do.  The old adage, let the buyer beware, couldn't be more appropriate.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

		
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- --0-210019961-1085060983=:33145
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>I&nbsp;dunno Chris. Do you believe everything people tell you? Especially <BR>around <BR>machine shops, I take everything with a grain of salt. In my <BR>experience, <BR>machine shops are a place where you can find some serious crooks. If <BR>claims <BR>like that are made by a place that has an interest to make a competitor <BR>look bad, I'd be very careful in believing the information.<BR><BR>With all the criticism the place receives, I do not believe that <BR>something <BR>like this would leave Mondellos shop. Likely, when the engine was sold, <BR>someone claimed that the heads were done by mondello and this <BR>information <BR>was taken for granted wishful thinking) by the following owners.<BR>--------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>George,</DIV>
<DIV>The pics speak for themselves.&nbsp; The owner of the F heads, Greg, sent them to Mondello.&nbsp; Work was performed.&nbsp; The heads were returned in a box with a return address from "Mondello Performance Products", the pic is there for all to see.&nbsp; Bottom line, the owner of the heads was not happy with the work performed by Mondello Performance Products.&nbsp; Eh, no matter.&nbsp; I can't force you to do anything you don't want to do.&nbsp; The old adage, let the buyer beware, couldn't be more appropriate.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>Yahoo! Domains - <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=23613/*http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer">Claim yours for only $14.70/year</a>
- --0-210019961-1085060983=:33145--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 06:53:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end

- --0-1920762817-1085061222=:92079
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I have a non olds rear end, something funky, I am positive it got 
changed 
along the cars life. So replacing the whole unit seems like a good 
idea. 
Instead of paying through the nose on a questionable used rear, I think 
a 
new one would be great!
- -------------------------------------
not knowing the year of your car, you _could_ still have the original rear
 


Where would I go for a fresh complete "turn key" rear? I wouldn't mind 
to 
get something more common than what's original to the car. Maybe a 
chevy 
rear like it came in the chevy a bodies? A 12 bolt? What is best in the 
GM 
rear world?
- -------------------------------------------------
well, Canadian built Cutlass' came with a Chevy 12 bolt as I have one from a 69.
 
contact Brian Trick, 507olds on ROP.  Sorry, I don't have an email address handy.  There is always the brand spanking new route, $2100 or so from Moser and other companies.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 

		
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- --0-1920762817-1085061222=:92079
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<DIV>I have a non olds rear end, something funky, I am positive it got <BR>changed <BR>along the cars life. So replacing the whole unit seems like a good <BR>idea. <BR>Instead of paying through the nose on a questionable used rear, I think <BR>a <BR>new one would be great!</DIV>
<DIV>-------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>not knowing the year of your car, you _could_ still have the original rear</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR>Where would I go for a fresh complete "turn key" rear? I wouldn't mind <BR>to <BR>get something more common than what's original to the car. Maybe a <BR>chevy <BR>rear like it came in the chevy a bodies? A 12 bolt? What is best in the <BR>GM <BR>rear world?<BR>-------------------------------------------------<BR>well, Canadian built Cutlass' came with a Chevy 12 bolt as I have one from a 69.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>contact Brian Trick, 507olds on ROP.&nbsp; Sorry, I don't have an email address handy.&nbsp; There is always the brand spanking new route, $2100 or so from Moser and other companies.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 07:00:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line

- --0-1035483280-1085061642=:79494
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

So, just to be clear, Greg Rollin(s), former list member and all round 
good guy,  has the part you need for $23.50 (18+5.50 shipping)?
- --------------------------------------
1. I agree Greg is a great guy.  and it's Rollin, no s.
2. Greg is still very much a member of this list.  I asked him that a few months ago.  He replied he just lurks and is real busy and unfortunately doesn't have time to contribute.


If you _really_ want to help Right Stuff then why not buy it from Greg, 
send it to Right Stuff and then you will have two for little more than 
the price of one?
- -----------------------------
Um, If I bought it from Greg, then there would be no point sending it to Right Stuff as I already have the line.


OTOH, I would support an Olds only restoration house over almost anyone 
else and just buy it from Supercars.
- ---------------------------------------------------
Oh, trust me.  I have hundreds of dollars of parts from Supercars in my motor thats currently being done.  And if this fuel pump fiasco doesn't work out, then I'll be placing another order with Greg for a correct fuel pump which would of course be the perfect time to get the fuel line, perhaps even the SSII lugnuts, SSII wheel paint and all those other little things I forget to get when I placed the first TWO orders.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 

		
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- --0-1035483280-1085061642=:79494
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<DIV>So, just to be clear, Greg Rollin(s), former list member and all round <BR>good guy,&nbsp; has the part you need for $23.50 (18+5.50 shipping)?</DIV>
<DIV>--------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>1. I agree Greg is a great guy.&nbsp; and it's Rollin, no s.</DIV>
<DIV>2. Greg is still very much a member of this list.&nbsp; I asked him that a few months ago.&nbsp; He replied he just lurks and is real busy and unfortunately doesn't have time to contribute.<BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR>If you _really_ want to help Right Stuff then why not buy it from Greg, <BR>send it to Right Stuff and then you will have two for little more than <BR>the price of one?</DIV>
<DIV>-----------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>Um, If I bought it from Greg, then there would be no point sending it to Right Stuff as I already have the line.<BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR>OTOH, I would support an Olds only restoration house over almost anyone <BR>else and just buy it from Supercars.</DIV>
<DIV>---------------------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>Oh, trust me.&nbsp; I have&nbsp;hundreds of dollars of parts from Supercars in my motor thats currently being done.&nbsp; And if this fuel pump fiasco doesn't work out, then I'll be placing another order with Greg for a correct fuel pump which would of course be the perfect time to get the fuel line, perhaps even the SSII lugnuts, SSII wheel paint and all those other little things I forget to get when I placed the first TWO orders.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>Yahoo! Domains - <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=23613/*http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer">Claim yours for only $14.70/year</a>
- --0-1035483280-1085061642=:79494--

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4896
*********************************
