
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, April 19 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4860



Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
steering gear box rebuilds
Re: Fuel gauge MAX!/sender ground?
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
RE: Fuel gauge MAX!/sender ground?
RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
RE: Harmonic Balancer Bolt
Cali smog laws
Re: Air Compressor Settlement
RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
RE: gear box rebuild
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Re: Air Compressor Settlement
Re: Cali smog laws
Re: Vent flexible Ductwork
RE:  Spam from Lazaro?
Re:  400 Engine for sale, NY area
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
Re: Toro Pickup on Evil Site
RE: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
Re: 68 400 stock rings
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: 68 400 stock rings
Re: Vent flexible Ductwork
RE: Spam from Lazaro?
Holley 750 DP rebuild
1970 442

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:36:23 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

  bolt is right hand thread  lefty loosen. hold the flywheel and loosen bolt will require two people
one to hold fly wheel other to loosen bolt
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Christopher Brown" <Olds-Supreme72@hawaii.rr.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 4:28 PM
  Subject: harmonic balancer bolt


  > I sent out last night but don tkno if it got through.  Im in the middle of
  > an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
  > bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a trick to
  > this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.  Any advice is
  > greatly appreciated.
  >
  > Chris Brown
  > 72 Cutlass Supreme (still a pretty looking paperweight)
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 07:07:26 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

From: "Kerry Kroger"
> Are any of my posts making it to the list?

Yes. Good to see ya again.
And please turn off your request for receipt.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:17:45 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: steering gear box rebuilds

Hi all,


Last year at this time I set up a discount for steering gear box rebuilds
from a place called
Steer & Gear in Coloumbus, Ohio. I just got off the phone with him and our
discount is still good.
I am sending him a box for his firm feel conversion and rebuild/reseal.
The firm feel conversion is where he changes the torsion rod, (I think thats
correct) in the box.
He can also change the ratio if you want that.

The prices are:

Firm feel conversion and rebuild is $125.00, regular price is $165.00
The faster ratio and firm feel rebuild is $165.00, regular $ 210.00

Call Tom at 1-(800) 253-4327, tell him that your from the Olds internet
list.

Joe Walters
73 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 05:31:08 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge MAX!/sender ground?

Randy Hermsen wrote:
> Hello
> I been busy installin a fual pump/reg/gauge on the 58, but i sure would like a working fuel gauge.
> I been told when the gauge goes straight to full as soon as you turn the key the tank/sender is not getting a grd?
> The gauge worked before?
> In the shop man. i dont see a grd. wire only the symbol.
> I remember just the one wire(grey) to top of tank..power.
> So the grd. must be threw the straps and the painted rebuilt tank itself to frame/body?
> Someone suggested soldering on a grd wire to tank?
> Maybe its the printed circuit board on back of gauge set?
> If i could lighten up with out havin a full tank all the time i could break into the low 15s :)
> Randy H.
> Maple Ridge B.C.
> 
> __________________________________________________________________
> Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. 
> Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
> 
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need. 
> 
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
> 
> 
Randy,
   58 is a little old for me. Later years if the fuel guage wire(to the 
tank unit) is unhooked the guage reads full. Ground that wire and the 
gauge goes to empty. Thats how we diagnosed the problem tank unit or 
dash gauge. (it was hardly ever the dash unit)It sounds like you may 
have an open circuit somewhere.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:32:36 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

At Sunday, 18 April 2004, you wrote:

>Are any of my posts making it to the list?

They are; but you've also got your "receipt notification" turned 
on and THAT POs some folks.

Likely, nobody's replied to any yer posts as they had nothing to say.

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
===================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:42:51 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel gauge MAX!/sender ground?

>I been busy installin a fual pump/reg/gauge on the 58, but i sure would
>like a working fuel gauge. I been told when the gauge goes straight to
>full as soon as you turn the key the tank/sender is not getting a grd?

Well, yes; the tank sender is _providing_ a ground path, or in other words, 
picture it as current flowing _from_ the gauge back to the tank, where the 
sending unit provides a variable-resistance ground path. If that circuit is 
broken, the gauge pegs itself to one side or the other (FULL, apparently, in 
your case); if that circuit is shorted to ground instead, the gauge pegs 
itself to the other side (EMPTY, in your case).

To confirm this, find an inline connector somewhere in the sending unit wire 
(between the rear bumper and the tank is a likely spot), unplug it there and 
ground the lead from the dashboard directly to a good ground spot, and you 
should find (with the ignition on, of course) that the gauge now pegs itself 
to the other extreme.

>In the shop man. i dont see a grd. wire only the symbol.

Yes, current goes back to the tank and grounds through the sending unit.

>I remember just the one wire(grey) to top of tank..power.
>So the grd. must be threw the straps and the painted rebuilt tank itself to 
>frame/body?
>Someone suggested soldering on a grd wire to tank?

You might also be able to drill a discreet hole through the flange of the 
tank (assuming you have plenty of excess sheet metal around it) and screw on 
a ground lead there. But even before that, someone may want to doublecheck 
that tank installation in case a factory ground lead was overlooked.

>Maybe its the printed circuit board on back of gauge set?

I doubt it, unless your short-to-ground test above does nothing. A working 
field current is needed to peg the needle in the first place; if it can do 
that, then check for voltage in the sending-unit wire. I think you'll find 
it there, which leaves only the tank as suspect, which we sort of knew all 
along since you said that things were fine until the tank was replaced.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:33:43 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

>Watch your coolant level after you get that water pump done Andy.
>If I remember right, yours (or your Dad's?) "used" coolant but you
>couldn't find a leak. My Silhouette did too. It was the intake gasket
>slowly going away.

Unfortunately it's starting to look like Eric is right on the money.

The water pump had indeed been gushing coolant (some really impressive spray 
patterns were seen on the inside of the soaked pump pulley, as well as the 
whole starboard side of the engine compartment), but now that that's fixed 
and the engine's had a good cleaning, there are still suspicious little 
puddles on the garage floor and what looks like a wet temperature sender at 
the opposite end of the block from the pump. So yes, I think the intake 
manifold gasket may have let go on this thing.

>I never lost enough at a time to ever see any in the oil, until
>the gasket really failed. I had the plugs replaced at the same
>time this repair was made. Was told by the service manager that
>the intake gasket failure is pretty common on the 3.4L.

Is this realistically a home repair, or should I solve this problem by 
throwing money at it?

Updating the Subject line appropriately...  :-(

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:51:25 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Harmonic Balancer Bolt

>How does one go about removing the Harmonic Balancer/Crankshaft bolt with
>the engine on a stand?

On my old '72 LeMans, there were some counterbalancing holes in the edge of 
the balancer, into one of which I dropped a 5/32" socket on a 1/4"-drive 
ratchet handle, and swung the handle around to jam it against the block. 
This locked the engine solidly enough that I could crack loose the balancer 
bolt.

More significantly, it also allowed me to jam the engine in the opposite 
direction later, so I could torque it back on to the right amount. Remember 
that you _do_ need to get it back on later just as tight...  :-)

>And on a related note, is said bolt reverse threaded?

No.

One more tip that might come in handy: When pressing the balancer back on, I 
found that the big long center bolt that comes with the Sears Craftsman 
Steering Wheel/Balancer Puller had the same threads as the balancer bolt. I 
was able to screw the puller bolt right into the end of the crankshaft, hang 
the balancer on the end and get it initially aligned, then spin on the body 
of the puller tool and use it to evenly press the balancer back on to the 
shaft, nice and straight.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
>From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring 
Travel Guide! http://special.msn.com/local/springtravel.armx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 08:09:52 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: Cali smog laws

Can someone give me a run-down of this new change/law in california for
smogging 30+ year old cars?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 07:34:32 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Settlement

> http://www.aircompressorsettlement.com/

Always been a pet peeve of mine that some companies spec power tools by peak
power rather than continuous. I'm suprised that Ingersol Rand is in that
list though - their industrial stuff is correctly labeled.

This practice extends to circular saws and such too, where the ad's
typically say "Develops X hp", meaning peak power under near stall
conditions. I suspect labeling of compressors will just change to "Peak" as
a result of the litigation. Unknowing customers will still be duped.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:22:28 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

<Is this realistically a home repair, or should I solve this problem by 
<throwing money at it?

I'm mechanically inclined - but I despise jobs like this one (and the spark plugs) because it is so ridiculous what you have to go through for a simple (and sometimes scheduled) maintenance task. I think if you could rig up a top support for rotating the engine forward (you know like GM tool, XYZ$%##%%) it's an easy job. I just haven't seen what this arrangement looks like.

Speaking of throwing money, mine also let go the week of Christmas - I needed it for a trip in two days and was in no way prepared to get it done myself. Didn't have time to order the intake set/wires cheaper at GMPartsDirect, etc.  It ran me $925 for the intake, plugs and wires ($80/hour labor) at the dealer. Intake gasket set is pretty pricey, plus you get to pay about $12/gal. for the "GM" antifreeze, $2.50/qt. for oil, $5 for the oil filter etc. I think the wires were about $40, plugs almost another $40. It came out about 50/50 parts/labor. I like the service guys there, but I give them heck about parts and their 67% markup every time. I'd say do it yourself would cost around $200 (intake and plugs/wires). 

Just like I need a motor now. It's $4500 installed at GM - for a van that's worth about $6000. Cheapest I can get the engine from GM new is around $3200. It's a nice vehicle, but too expensive for my taste to maintain. By the way, that catalytic converter stopped up at 122K. It's probably worth your while to spend $125 on a converter ahead of time vs. going through what I am. My Suburban will run about $750/year more on fuel, but I'll still save $250/year over what this van has cost me the last three years. (And a 350 crate motor is half price - not that I couldn't rebuild it :o))

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:13:16 -0400
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: gear box rebuild

OK snipping all of it.

Qualifier, haven't driven it yet

For what it's worth had Power Steering Systems redo my steery gear with the
upgrade to fast ratio and powder coating on the box.  They were about $150
bucks to have it done IIRC.

Looks fantastic.

417 864 6676 is the contact number.


Jim 
69 442 conv, that hopes to be driven by 05

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:19:54 -0400
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

> > an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
> > bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a
trick to
> > this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.

Long breaker bar resting on a block of wood on the drivers side of car.
Jump in car and bump starter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:32:22 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Settlement

Dave Cullen wrote:
>
> ... I suspect labeling of compressors will just change to "Peak" as
> a result of the litigation. 

I would hope not considering that the agreement reads in part:
"(the defendants) ... have all agreed to stop labeling their ... Air 
Compressors ... with peak horsepower ratings."

> Unknowing customers will still be duped.

Agreed, by knowledgeable consumer is the protected consumer.
- --

Cliff "eat the lawyers" Simpson & Kermit
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:40:47 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cali smog laws

I heard you have to get emissions tested.....
Dunno the values the old cars must meet, glad I don't live there....

JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:09 AM
Subject: Cali smog laws


> Can someone give me a run-down of this new change/law in california for
> smogging 30+ year old cars?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 12:04:37 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vent flexible Ductwork

- --part1_147.27634caf.2db55295_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/19/04 7:24:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
ssreed@direcway.com
 writes:

>  >All,
>  >I'm in the process of getting the dash back together today, and
>  >realized/forgot that my old flexible ductwork to the dash vents are quite
>  >dry rotted.
>  >Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement supplier?
>  >
>  >I spoke with a friend and he said to try a marine supply store as they use
>  >similar stuff with boats.
>  >
>  >Thanks,
>  >
>  >
>  >Steve Reed

Steve,
      Which ones do you need?  There are several on 70-72 Cutlasses, most of 
which are rectangular.  I doubt that you will find any of the odd shaped hoses 
anywhere aftermarket.  I have any of the ones that you might need, just need 
to know which ones they are.  Hit me privately and we can make arrangements.
Steve D

- --part1_147.27634caf.2db55295_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 4/19/04 7:24:28=20=
AM Pacific Daylight Time, ssreed@direcway.com<BR>
 writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> &gt;All,<BR>
 &gt;I'm in the process of getting the dash back together today, and<BR>
 &gt;realized/forgot that my old flexible ductwork to the dash vents are qui=
te<BR>
 &gt;dry rotted.<BR>
 &gt;Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement supplier?<BR>
 &gt;<BR>
 &gt;I spoke with a friend and he said to try a marine supply store as they=20=
use<BR>
 &gt;similar stuff with boats.<BR>
 &gt;<BR>
 &gt;Thanks,<BR>
 &gt;<BR>
 &gt;<BR>
 &gt;Steve Reed</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Steve,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Which ones do you need?&nbsp; There are sever=
al on 70-72 Cutlasses, most of which are rectangular.&nbsp; I doubt that you=
 will find any of the odd shaped hoses anywhere aftermarket.&nbsp; I have an=
y of the ones that you might need, just need to know which ones they are.&nb=
sp; Hit me privately and we can make arrangements.<BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_147.27634caf.2db55295_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:03:58 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE:  Spam from Lazaro?

> Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 14:05:07 -0400
> From: "David J. Duffner - Trofeoworld.com" <oldslist@trofeoworld.com>
> Subject: Spam from Lazaro?
> 
> 	Anyone else getting apparently spam from a
> 'Lazaro' asking you to call him when you get in 
> the Office?  I'm presuming, since I have no idea 
> who this is, it's someone who snagged a copy of
> the List's members and is fishing to see who's
> valid so we get more lovely spam?
>

I got the same e-mail, but from "Orville Marcus", not "Lazaro". The 
name "Kenneth Jensen" was in the cc: field, too. There weren't any 
virus laden attachments, and there was no telephone number so I could 
call Orville, if I were so inclined. 

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 12:10:11 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re:  400 Engine for sale, NY area

- --part1_1d2.1f05279f.2db553e3_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A friend in NY is trying to sell a 400 engine.  It is mostly complete, 
missing a harmonic balancer and valve covers.  He gave me the date code and all the 
pertinent info on the engine, but it is at home and I'm now at work.  The only 
drawback to most on this forum is that it is a Pontiac engine out of a GTO.  
He wants $250 for it.  Anyone interested can contact me and I'll put you in 
touch with Scott.  He works out of town through the week and is only home on the 
weekends. 
Olds content: He also has a 70 Cutlass convertible that he is parting out.  
Hit me off list for details,
Steve D

- --part1_1d2.1f05279f.2db553e3_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">A friend in NY is trying to sell a=20=
400 engine.&nbsp; It is mostly complete, missing a harmonic balancer and val=
ve covers.&nbsp; He gave me the date code and all the pertinent info on the=20=
engine, but it is at home and I'm now at work.&nbsp; The only drawback to mo=
st on this forum is that it is a Pontiac engine out of a GTO.&nbsp; He wants=
 $250 for it.&nbsp; Anyone interested can contact me and I'll put you in tou=
ch with Scott.&nbsp; He works out of town through the week and is only home=20=
on the weekends. <BR>
Olds content: He also has a 70 Cutlass convertible that he is parting out.&n=
bsp; Hit me off list for details,<BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1d2.1f05279f.2db553e3_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 12:20:17 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

Hi Andy,

How many miles on your van? My wife has a 99 Montana with 60k miles. Is this
what I have to look forward to?
The dealer did reseal the lower intake under warrenty a while ago. I've
never really looked close to examine the difficulty of working behind the
engine, but am sure plugs etc. are a joke. I wonder if you could make a
access hole from inside, than cover it with a plate and the carpet.
I do know when the dealer did my intake it was per a GM service bulletin,
and it was a reseal with  GM goop of some sort.
Ron Fama might remember, he sent me the bulletin. Is this the same problem?

Is your leaking to much for a can of stop leak?

Good luck

Joe Walters
73 H/O

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?


> >Watch your coolant level after you get that water pump done Andy.
> >If I remember right, yours (or your Dad's?) "used" coolant but you
> >couldn't find a leak. My Silhouette did too. It was the intake gasket
> >slowly going away.
>
> Unfortunately it's starting to look like Eric is right on the money.
>
> The water pump had indeed been gushing coolant (some really impressive
spray
> patterns were seen on the inside of the soaked pump pulley, as well as the
> whole starboard side of the engine compartment), but now that that's fixed
> and the engine's had a good cleaning, there are still suspicious little
> puddles on the garage floor and what looks like a wet temperature sender
at
> the opposite end of the block from the pump. So yes, I think the intake
> manifold gasket may have let go on this thing.
>
> >I never lost enough at a time to ever see any in the oil, until
> >the gasket really failed. I had the plugs replaced at the same
> >time this repair was made. Was told by the service manager that
> >the intake gasket failure is pretty common on the 3.4L.
>
> Is this realistically a home repair, or should I solve this problem by
> throwing money at it?
>
> Updating the Subject line appropriately...  :-(
>
> -- Andy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar - FREE!
> http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:27:50 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

Yes, they are, but turn off your automatic reply feature.

The List itself will always send back a duplicate of your message.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kkroger@birch.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View


> Are any of my posts making it to the list?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 11:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
>
>
> > > filtered rinse is such low pressure, almost a mist,
> >
> > High wind (more than a breeze) could be the problem, but I wonder what
is
> > your water pressure and volume are like?  I am on a well these days, but
> the
> > line I use for washing cars is within ten yards of the well head.  Lots
of
> > pressure and high flow.  Works great.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Fred
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 12:44:33 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

I got your post too. I was gonna reply about the way they spelled "chammy" I
could be wrong but I thinm it's spelled "chamois" Just a little curious
about that. I did ask for the coupon though. Thanks.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "SteveH" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View


> At Sunday, 18 April 2004, you wrote:
>
> >Are any of my posts making it to the list?
>
> They are; but you've also got your "receipt notification" turned
> on and THAT POs some folks.
>
> Likely, nobody's replied to any yer posts as they had nothing to say.
>
> SteveH
>
>
>
> ===================================================================
> EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
> ===================================================================
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:58:55 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Toro Pickup on Evil Site

> Is this a real factory conversion?


No.

GM and Olds don't do that.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 13:03:58 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

My brother's late-80s Cutlass has a little warning light on the dash that
says "check gages". Nice.

You are right about chamois.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

 I was gonna reply about the way they spelled "chammy" I
could be wrong but I thinm it's spelled "chamois".

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:25:28 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings

Rob,

Al called Sealed Power. The '68-'69 Olds 400 is considered way too obsolete.
To save inventory stock, Sealed Power made the decision to have that ring
set available in only 0.030" over, assuming anyone rebuilding a L400 would
be overboring 30 anyway.

For the E400, the 4" bore is common.

I would recommend getting a set of the E245K premium moly rings, which are
only 5 over, and file the rings to fit the bore.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings


> Thanks Milton, please ask him and see what info can be found.  Thanks
again
> for your efforts!
>
> Rob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>
> Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings
>
>
> > As I said before, your standard bore size is 3.870". For a 3.875" bore,
my
> > 2000 Sealed Power catalog shows:
> >
> > E245K - 8 cylinder &
> > E245X - 8 cylinder = 283 Chevy V8, 307 Chevy V8, '54-'56 324 Olds V8,
350
> > Pontiac V8. I would suspect these rings would fit your stock pistons
okay.
> >
> > E450K - 4 cylinder &
> > E450X - 4 cylinder = 153 Chevy L4.
> >
> > E234K - 6 cylinder &
> > E234X - 6 cylinder = 230 Chevy OHV and SOHC L6, 250 Chevy L6, 250
Pontiac
> > SOHC L6.
> >
> > I just showed the GM applications. I didn't bother with the other
> automotive
> > brands.
> >
> > The one catch is, I don't know if the front edge to back edge distance
of
> > the ring will match the depth of the ring grooves on your pistons. If it
> > does, you're in business. The catalog doesn't give that dimension.
> >
> > If you want me to ask Al at Merles Auto about these rings on Monday and
> see
> > what he can find, I will. Just let me know.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 13:19:45 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

- --part1_115.317ae6cd.2db56431_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

If the engine is still in the car and the starter is still working, Put the 
socket on the bolt....brace the breaker arm against the left frame..then bump 
the starter. Always worked for me.
                                                        Ron Forsee
                                                        65-442  "Only Owner" 

- --part1_115.317ae6cd.2db56431_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">If the engine is still in the car a=
nd the starter is still working, Put the socket on the bolt....brace the bre=
aker arm against the left frame..then bump the starter. Always worked for me=
.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  Ron Forsee<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  65-442&nbsp; "Only Owner" </FONT></HTM=
L>

- --part1_115.317ae6cd.2db56431_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:30:30 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

Joe,

And our '97 Transport 3.4 had the intake gasket replaced under extended
warranty at 67K, and it's leaking again at 84K, and GM doesn't give a flying
damn since the warranty has expired. I've got a 16 ounce bottle of Bars Leak
to put in. Screw GM.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?


> Hi Andy,
>
> How many miles on your van? My wife has a 99 Montana with 60k miles. Is
this
> what I have to look forward to?
> The dealer did reseal the lower intake under warrenty a while ago. I've
> never really looked close to examine the difficulty of working behind the
> engine, but am sure plugs etc. are a joke. I wonder if you could make a
> access hole from inside, than cover it with a plate and the carpet.
> I do know when the dealer did my intake it was per a GM service bulletin,
> and it was a reseal with  GM goop of some sort.
> Ron Fama might remember, he sent me the bulletin. Is this the same
problem?
>
> Is your leaking to much for a can of stop leak?
>
> Good luck
>
> Joe Walters
> 73 H/O
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:33 AM
> Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
>
>
> > >Watch your coolant level after you get that water pump done Andy.
> > >If I remember right, yours (or your Dad's?) "used" coolant but you
> > >couldn't find a leak. My Silhouette did too. It was the intake gasket
> > >slowly going away.
> >
> > Unfortunately it's starting to look like Eric is right on the money.
> >
> > The water pump had indeed been gushing coolant (some really impressive
> spray
> > patterns were seen on the inside of the soaked pump pulley, as well as
the
> > whole starboard side of the engine compartment), but now that that's
fixed
> > and the engine's had a good cleaning, there are still suspicious little
> > puddles on the garage floor and what looks like a wet temperature sender
> at
> > the opposite end of the block from the pump. So yes, I think the intake
> > manifold gasket may have let go on this thing.
> >
> > >I never lost enough at a time to ever see any in the oil, until
> > >the gasket really failed. I had the plugs replaced at the same
> > >time this repair was made. Was told by the service manager that
> > >the intake gasket failure is pretty common on the 3.4L.
> >
> > Is this realistically a home repair, or should I solve this problem by
> > throwing money at it?
> >
> > Updating the Subject line appropriately...  :-(
> >
> > -- Andy
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar - FREE!
> > http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:36:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

> I think if you could rig up a top support for rotating the engine forward
(you know like GM tool, XYZ$%##%%) it's an easy job.


You can use a come-a-long attached to an immovable object and winch the
engine forward, after the engine mounts are unbolted. Even so, I find the
plugs are still a royal bitch to access.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 13:21:37 -0400
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings

Milton,

We'll go with the E245K.  Thanks very much for your research and
recommendation.  It is much appreciated!

Rob
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings


> Al called Sealed Power. The '68-'69 Olds 400 is considered way too
obsolete.
> To save inventory stock, Sealed Power made the decision to have that ring
> set available in only 0.030" over, assuming anyone rebuilding a L400 would
> be overboring 30 anyway.
> For the E400, the 4" bore is common.
> I would recommend getting a set of the E245K premium moly rings, which are
> only 5 over, and file the rings to fit the bore.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:24:14 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Vent flexible Ductwork

Steve Reed wrote:
> All,
> 	I'm in the process of getting the dash back together today, and
> realized/forgot that my old flexible ductwork to the dash vents are quite
> dry rotted.
> 	Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement supplier?
> 
> I spoke with a friend and he said to try a marine supply store as they use
> similar stuff with boats.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Steve Reed
> '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
> '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
> '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
> Austin, TX
> http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
Steve
   I found this stuff right sizes and all at pep boys.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 19:06:02 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Spam from Lazaro?

>I got the same e-mail, but from "Orville Marcus", not "Lazaro". The
>name "Kenneth Jensen" was in the cc: field, too. There weren't any
>virus laden attachments, and there was no telephone number so I could
>call Orville, if I were so inclined.

Okay, my conclusion to all this, as an amateur spamfighter, was that it 
looks like an address verification run for future spamming. Not a lot you 
can do except ensure that your filters are as fine-tuned as possible.

I should also mention that my "now returning you to Olds discussion" comment 
was not meant to be a jibe at David for not using an [OT] tag; I just wanted 
to acknowledge that we were being a little non-Olds at that moment.  :-)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 15:08:29 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Holley 750 DP rebuild

Finished the rebuild on my Holley today. Earlier posts were  Holley power
valves. Backfiring through the carb could ruin your PV. Well I can verify
that first hand. Long story short; My '78 Cutlass had been sitting for a
year, was getting it ready for a trip from RI to NH via AAA. The car ran the
previous day but when it got here it farted through the carb and wouldn't
start. Put in a new ign. module, capacitor, plugs. got it to run but was
running rich. I got a holley rebuild kit # 37-754 and started last Sat. and
finished today. It is running excellent and just needs a few air/fuel
adjustments. Just wanted to thank the list for thier advice and help.
Thank you
Pat Swanton.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:53:02 -0500
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: 1970 442

We've got a new baby in the form of a rusty (but #'s matching) 1970 442.
The car is sold to us by its first owner, and he has the original bill
of sale, and build-sheet - the car has 67,000 original miles on it.  The
car is equipped with the W-25 option list, 455, 4-spd Muncie, a set of
Cragar dish mags (hum), decent Hooker headers (ah), Holley 750
double-pumper carb, broken OAI, 3.42 anti-spin diff, only 1 original
wheel.  The drivetrain is in decent shape, but the body and interior
will take some work to get everything right.  Hasn't been driven for a
couple of years.  The original exh manifolds, etc are included.

Exciting times.  We should be able to pick her up next Thursday.  Will
mail out pics to anyone interested next week. 

On digest - so contact me directly.
Ian

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4860
*********************************
