
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, April 10 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4850



RE: name that part
Long time owners
Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.
Re: Clear Coat question
OPSenders gone awry
Re: Advice on 71 Cutlass 455 Rebuild
Re: 69 Ram Rod with 70 W31 FS - or not
Engine Done, it's almost a 1971 W31
Re: Long time owners
pertronix
Re: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.
RE: different listing for misc pcs - not an "auction" now
RE: name that part
electric choke H*lp
1971 Cutlass 455 Update/rethink
Re: electric choke H*lp
Re: electric choke H*lp
Re: 1971 Cutlass 455 Update/rethink
Wagner Thermoquiet brake shoes
Re: Tempus Fugit!
Re: Tempus Fugit!
Houston TX, WILD 442 sighting
Re: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.
'77 trunk lid torque rod installation
test
RE: Tempus Fugit!
Re: pertronix

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 00:55:49 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: name that part

At least he gave it back. Wish you had the car cover back.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 12:42 PM
To: Chevelle List; Olds Mailing List
Subject: name that part


Can anybody tell me what this is?

http://johnnasta.com/mysterypart.jpg

It's one of the parts that Ron Miller returned to me when I got my 69 El
Camino back. Given the fact that many of my parts were never returned and
many of the parts that were sent back with my car were not from my car, it's
entirely possible that it's from another vehicle.

If it is from my car, I'm guessing that when Ron pulled the left quarter
panel, he removed this piece and forgot to put it back. It looks to me like
it's supposed to support the fuel filler tube. It's about a foot and a half
long and a foot wide.

If you know what it is, please let me know.

Thanks,
John Nasta

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:56:43 EDT
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
Subject: Long time owners

- --part1_aa.2a68d1ed.2da7951b_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I've read a lot on digest mode, but honestly enjoyed the long time owners 
comments.  I've already mentioned mine, but for those who think that they are new 
comers, well remember, the few of us that have had our cars for 34 plus 
years, well, add 16 (to be able to drive) to that and our age shows our ability to 
have kept our prize possessions for so long.

It is, however nice to know that there are other guys and gals out there as 
"nutty" as some people think I am, but then again, when I drive her down the 
street, everyone still stares.  best habit I could ever have taken up.       Ron

- --part1_aa.2a68d1ed.2da7951b_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I've read a lot on digest mode, but=
 honestly enjoyed the long time owners comments.&nbsp; I've already mentione=
d mine, but for those who think that they are new comers, well remember, the=
 few of us that have had our cars for 34 plus years, well, add 16 (to be abl=
e to drive) to that and our age shows our ability to have kept our prize pos=
sessions for so long.<BR>
<BR>
It is, however nice to know that there are other guys and gals out there as=20=
"nutty" as some people think I am, but then again, when I drive her down the=
 street, everyone still stares.&nbsp; best habit I could ever have taken up.=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ron</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_aa.2a68d1ed.2da7951b_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 02:19:38 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.

Hello
Wipers are needed at times :O
I see Tanson offers a $180.00 Elec. coversion kit.
http://www.forwhatyouneed.com/wipers.htm
IIRC Fusicks offers a $75.00 rebuild on my stock vac. wipers motor.
In my opinion the elec. would be a good conversion.
Maybe i should just fix motor myself(free) and git a new wubber thingy fer it? 
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.

__________________________________________________________________
Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. 
Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

Netscape. Just the Net You Need. 

New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 06:39:06 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Clear Coat question

> I have always done my own body work but I have not been able to get
> decent paint jobs.  So a few years age I decided to try painting myself.
> I definitely like using basecoat/clear coat systems.  I have gotten
> pretty good with applying the basecoat but I am not very good yet with
> the clear coat.  I still get runs/sags.  Anybody have any ideas what I
> might be doing wrong.  I am using a Sharpe Platinum HVLP paint gun (if I
> remember right it is a 1.8 mm).

Platinum's are available with 1.1, 1.3 and 1.5 mm tips I think. 1.3 should
be fine for medium density clears. They're great guns for relatively small
compressors as they only require about 7.5 CFM. Supposed to be slow going,
which is what an inexperienced painter needs to help minimize runs.

One thing to try is laying a very light coat of clear for the first coat and
wait a good 10 minutes before doing the second. That will provide a buffer
between the base and subsequent coats of clear that helps keep the clear
from sliding.

There's no magic to it, just practice and experience. You need to set the
gun pressure and fluid level to give you the best compromise between too wet
(runs & sags) and too dry (orange peel). Set the gun up by spraying a
vertical piece of masking paper. I had an HTML file that explained what to
look for in the spray pattern, if I find it I'll send it to you.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 08:21:01 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: OPSenders gone awry

So, the engine rebuild is done, actually left the driveway in very good 
condition the other day.

Stupid electric choke comes back on partway during road use.

Anyhow, you may recall the fun caused by OP sender going bad. 2nd start, 
brand new and very expensive engine, red OIL lite is on while running!? 
Investigation [real OP Gage] shows very smooth and steady 50 psi [I had 
shimmed the OP relief spring about 0.100"]- Bad sender.

Continue with final assembly. Owner wants dash lamps replaced too, as speedo 
was not lit up during his first drive- well after dark. Being the 
perfectionist, I extract the gage pods, polish all the contacts, silicone 
lube everything so that it comes apart easy and does not oxidize again... 
test EVERY LAMP in each pod before install.

No OIL lite at all now.
What the...?

Ground wire at sender, now we got OIL lite.
Another bad sender. Put a 3rd one in. It, too is nonfunctional.

?!?!?!?!?!

30 years I been working on this stuff, NEVER had a bad OP sender, now all of 
a sudden 3 or 4 are shot? Ended up commandeering one off the Personal 403 in 
the garage.

Oh, A4 intake does protrude fwd a bit too far, makes OP sender socket very 
hard to get on the sender. Maybe use of the socket bent each unit during 
install?

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Multiple plans available. 
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 08:31:58 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on 71 Cutlass 455 Rebuild

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 07:46:40 -0600
From: eric <aksoe1@sasktel.net>
Subject: Advice on 71 Cutlass 455 Rebuild

I've read the FAQ on Cam's , heads etc, and I think I have a good grasp
of all the Variables involved, and I have a good idea what my End goal
is.  I'm looking for Good Power, but well below high end high $$
horsepower (thats why I like the 455, it doesn't need to work hard to go
hard).

I'm using a turbo 200R4, with locking torque (ran by a manual switch).
So far I've driven it all winter, and I love it.  So, I'm rebuilding a
455 for it.  I have a knowledgable mechanic working on it, but I'd like
to ask some things:

1)  I'm hoping to get 25 MPIG (22 MPAG ).  Has anyone got this with a
light car and high gears + overdrive + locking torque.  I got 21 MPIG
with a 75 cutlass 455, Turbo 400, so I'm hoping.
================
A lot depends on your driving style, for a brief test period, you can drive 
like there's an egg under your foot, and have no fun but wonderful economy. 
I suggest the single 2-bbl carburetor, and possibly the CAC air cleaner 
setup, to feed the carb optimal temp air, as used on the TC option cars.


2)  Is their a spreadsheet still around for Cam sizing, I cant find it,
but I thought someone had one.   If not any suggestions (I'm thinking a
higher torque cam, possibly advanced 4 degrees).
=============
I have one that lists just about every Olds cam available, except maybe 
Ultradyne's very latest, is that what you meant?


3) I think I want High Torque, as RPM will be minimal, I don't expect to
ever break 2500 to 3000, with a highway speed of around 1600 - 2000
????  I don't have a tach, but it's the 2.23 Rear end I think with 200R4
and lock up torque.
================
Sounds like a Toronado cam will do nicely.

4) I have a 74 455 Rebuilt already, but needing a few Rocker Arms/Flex
Plate etc, and a 71 455 (C Heads) from a wrecked 71 Cutlass.   With a
high Torque application, are the C heads going to help me, or should I
save those and use a set of J heads.  Also, is the 71 Block any better
for this?
Thanx for any thoughts, pointers to documents, or similiar setups and
experiences.
Eric Aksomitis
=================
Blocks should be identical for your purposes. I would run the J's for low 
rpm economaster use.
Sorry, I do not have exact experience in that area, sounds like a great idea 
though.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page – FREE 
download! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 08:54:16 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Ram Rod with 70 W31 FS - or not

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 22:20:21 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: 69 Ram Rod with 70 W31 FS

The car runs strong now, claims with brake work can be driven. the engine
has been  varafied to be a 70 W31 with special balancer. The bad part is the
intake, carb, air cleaner and dist. are gone. Has a edelbrock inake and
carb. Has the orig trans. and 12 bolt rear, This is a Canadian car so it
should be the cheby rear. The aluminum cover is not there.

the vin is 3448791151836, engine # is 395558 2,  #6 heads.
Joe Walters
===============
That's a 1969 442, not a Cutlass
442's were not available with the 350 engine in 1969.
Pretty sure the W31 RamRod was put into Cutlass VIN'd cars, not 442's- 
Insurance purposes.
So, looks like a real 442 downgraded, well, actually, probably UPgraded from 
the correct original 400 LongStroke to a W31 350 plant. -IF- the whole 
engine proves to be a real W31 and not your average thicker balancer or even 
a real W31 balancer added to a plain jane 1970 350. I.e., D sized bores, 
etc. VIN stamp on the block would help... if it's "35..." then it's not a 
1970 engine, and all bets are off engine-wise.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 09:30:02 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Engine Done, it's almost a 1971 W31

Runs great
Back in the owner's driveway now.

Took a LOT of fiddling to get the run-of-the-mill HEI to have specs nearly 
that of the 1970 W31.
Adjustable vacuum advance kit, 10 to 12 turns CCW from base. Welded in 
travel limit for 12* instead of 30* max advance by vacuum. Used the springs 
from the kit, but had detonation under part throttle acceleration, so 
swapped back to stock springs. Much better.
   I marked the balancer at 35* while it was on the stand, a GREAT idea, 
makes setting total timing correctly dirt simple. AC Delco wires from the 
local store fit very well. Used spark plugs for the 1978 Toronado 403, 
gapped at 0.060" Timing ended up at right about factory W31 specs of 12-14* 
BTDC, gave a total Mech and Initial of just shy of 35*.

W31 pistons, regular 0.040 head gaskets, ended up using CRANE cam:
PowerMax H-284-2   284	292	222	230	0.480	0.496	110 LSA
Compression calcs to 10.06:1 with assumptions/ measurements:
4.087 x 3.385, .015 in the hole, 4.185 x .040 gasket hole, 68 cc heads. No 
dish at all.

Very nice, slight lope at idle, feels great, nice and strong. Would LOVE to 
have better gears now. 10 gallons of Sunoco 93 Octane went in with the oh 5g 
of whatever was in there before. Engine's first breaths were on straight 110 
Octane.

Stock rebuilt 7041250 Qjet, required only normal idle and mixture 
adjustments to behave.
Stock A4 EGR intake with crossovers blocked, stove pipes blocked, and dummy 
EGR in place to block those ports. Used 1978 H88? Air Cleaner to clear the 
HEI, the kind with offset hole in the lid. Also ran 3" OAI tube to some sort 
of factory GM plastic scoop situated between battery and radiator. Hot air 
for warmup from stove on LH side, typical of late 70's vehicles. Stock #1-4 
xst manifolds feeding a plain single exhaust [soon to be replaced with true 
duals].

Had to fabricate throttle cable brkt to move cable attach point about 3/4" 
rearwards, lest the cable be stretched.

Due to incorrect 68-70 shorty water pump with 2.0" inlet, no correct lower 
radiator hose was attainable, so had to pc one together from 2 that were 
close. Worked out great clearance-wise. Now I understand why folks call me 
looking for the correct casting for the 1971-2 engines.

Half the rocker pedestals had to be cut to get correct lifter preload. 
Shimmed the OP relief spring just a little.

Heater not connected, because heater core was obviously leaking. One less 
hassle to worry about, fix that later. Aftermarket coolant overflow tank was 
mounted to RH plastic inner fender liner.

Left off the TCS system- the replacement trans has NO PLACE to plug wires in 
anyhow. Intake now sports the simple small 3-port TVS to correct overheating 
at idle, should that occur.

Decals included "Oldsmobile 350" on the air cleaner- fit very nicely despite 
being designed for the centered-hole air cleaner. 1971 issue "Keep your GM 
car all GM" on the air cleaner. "QD" engine tag- same code used for 1970 W31 
engine. On a 1971 engine, this code did not exist. It does now. Tune-up 
decal for 1970 W31 with QD Auto Trans W31. Spark plug #/gap specs are wrong 
now, but that's no big deal. Also now has "Ram Rod 350" decals on the front 
fenders just above the turn signals. Incorrect, sure, but so is the whole 
concept of a 10:1 engine in a 1971 Cutlass. Hey, it's only missing... the 
hand chosen head castings, larger intake valves, and the OAI hood and air 
cleaner setup. And Dual Exhaust. And special Harmonic Damper. And...

Total cost was around $4000 plus trans rebuild.

MANY pix available.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 07:39:13 -0700
From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: Long time owners

Yer right! I broke out the ragtop  yesterday...poor thing! Still runs great,
although half primer black, half fire engine red... really showing the
70,000 miles we've put on her since we bought her 10-or-so years ago... and
people STILL stare and yell "Nice Car!" Can't beat that!
Mike in Baker City, Oregon
'98 intrigue
''72 suburban
'69 442 ragged-top
'69 vista "Vista-Carouser"
and the rest of the "Obsolete Fleet"
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 10:56 PM
Subject: Long time owners


I've read a lot on digest mode, but honestly enjoyed the long time owners
comments.  I've already mentioned mine, but for those who think that they
are new comers, well remember, the few of us that have had our cars for 34
plus years, well, add 16 (to be able to drive) to that and our age shows our
ability to have kept our prize possessions for so long.

It is, however nice to know that there are other guys and gals out there as
"nutty" as some people think I am, but then again, when I drive her down the
street, everyone still stares.  best habit I could ever have taken up.
Ron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 07:19:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: pertronix

- --0-783804199-1081520380=:10231
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Greetings all,
I'm looking to pick up a pertronix ignitor (1181LSCC) and was wondering who carries it at the cheapest price.  I know Jegs and Summit have them for $74.95 (and I believe one of them has free shipping, need to double check)  I also found a place in Missouri that lists them on ebay starting at $54.50, but I need 2 and when I called, buying them outright they are $79 each.  And they don't plan on listing anymore until sometime next week.  Sooooo, I'm back to shopping around and would like to know who's got the best deal on them.
 
TIA
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31  motor will be ready next month
1970 F-85
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
plus a whole mess of parts for sale


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today
- --0-783804199-1081520380=:10231
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Greetings all,</DIV>
<DIV>I'm looking to pick up a pertronix ignitor (1181LSCC) and was wondering who carries it at the cheapest price.&nbsp; I know Jegs and Summit have them for $74.95 (and I believe one of them has free shipping, need to double check)&nbsp; I also found a place in Missouri that lists them on ebay starting at $54.50, but I need 2 and when I called, buying them outright they are $79 each.&nbsp; And they don't plan on listing anymore until sometime next week.&nbsp; Sooooo, I'm back to shopping around and would like to know who's got the best deal on them.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>TIA</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31&nbsp; motor will be ready next month</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>plus a whole mess of parts for sale</DIV><p><hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=23609/*http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/static/index2.html">Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway</a> - Enter today
- --0-783804199-1081520380=:10231--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 08:39:16 -0700
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.

Randy,

Get the wiper kit from Nuport (it's the one most outlets sell). I finally 
installed them in my daily driver '56  (with intermittent switch and post 
kit to work with the normal knobs) and it was like night and day compared 
to my vac. wipers! It made winter driving here on the Wet Coast bearable. 
Worth every penny and then some.

I'm a rookie, so if I can make them work and be satisfied, GO FOR IT! A 
must for Vancouver drivers.

'Best,

Greg

At 02:19 AM 4/9/2004 -0400, you wrote:

>Hello
>Wipers are needed at times :O
>I see Tanson offers a $180.00 Elec. coversion kit.
>http://www.forwhatyouneed.com/wipers.htm
>IIRC Fusicks offers a $75.00 rebuild on my stock vac. wipers motor.
>In my opinion the elec. would be a good conversion.
>Maybe i should just fix motor myself(free) and git a new wubber thingy fer 
>it?
>Randy H.
>Maple Ridge B.C.
>
>__________________________________________________________________
>Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service.
>Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
>Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
>Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 13:54:04 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: different listing for misc pcs - not an "auction" now

<Is it confusing? At least now you can buy right away, and not have to wait 
<until an "auction" ends.

It's not that confusing. I can see you basically are avoiding paying listing fees and having to list all those items individually :o).  I'd buy from you if I needed it - but then I know you from the list and can appreciate trying to get the best of eBay. I think you have sufficient feedback to overcome the non-traditional sense of the listing.

Eric Holcombe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 10:26:28 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: name that part

I actually wish I had my pair of horns (instead of one of somebody else's).
That's keeping the car from being able to pass an inspection, and I have had
a hard time finding replacements.

I have somebody else's door panels too, which is keeping me from being able
to finish mine.

And then there's that brand new sway bar that Ron never installed like he
said he would and didn't return...


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Jack Kopf
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:56 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: name that part

At least he gave it back. Wish you had the car cover back.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 12:42 PM
To: Chevelle List; Olds Mailing List
Subject: name that part


Can anybody tell me what this is?

http://johnnasta.com/mysterypart.jpg

It's one of the parts that Ron Miller returned to me when I got my 69 El
Camino back. Given the fact that many of my parts were never returned and
many of the parts that were sent back with my car were not from my car, it's
entirely possible that it's from another vehicle.

If it is from my car, I'm guessing that when Ron pulled the left quarter
panel, he removed this piece and forgot to put it back. It looks to me like
it's supposed to support the fuel filler tube. It's about a foot and a half
long and a foot wide.

If you know what it is, please let me know.

Thanks,
John Nasta

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 14:27:57 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: electric choke H*lp

Well, got this input from one of the ROP.com fellers [and my, "reply"]

.................................

[quote="67fire"]Try to index the choke 1-2 leaner, until the problem stops. 
When the engine gets hot...so does the spring coil inthe choke.[/quote]
[his sig file reads: "All, engines, are capable of more power...within their 
engineered, Limits. The "FUN!" is in..."Pushing" those, Limits. "Way-beyond, 
their Limits!" Even, More...FUN!!! BOP, Not the "Easy-way." ]


to which, Chris, replied:

You must not, have "read" the whole, thing.
The, choke, was indexed to just barely close the "choke" when "cold".

There, fore, if I "index" it- leaner- it will... never close when, cold.

Further, more... the problem is, that, with THIS engine, the choke coil gets 
COOLER as you, drive. Which is not, "normal".  This does not happen while 
running, "in the driveway"... only, when "on the road".  This engine's heat 
crossover is totally, blocked off, so the electric heater, is the, only, 
source of, choke heat.

Best guess so far is that all choke bleed air needs to be shut down for the 
el choke to work properly.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN 
Premium! 
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/mlb&pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 12:03:39 -0600
From: eric <aksoe1@sasktel.net>
Subject: 1971 Cutlass 455 Update/rethink

So, I've got some replies from my Original Post, and talked  around, 
seems like The 74 455 already rebuilt for low RPM power will be as good 
or better, and is already mostly rebuilt.

But, the stock cam is still likely not what I want.  I've been reading 
Crane's website, I think they have what I want.  My question now is:

a)  What are the specs of the Original 1974 455 in A Olds 98.  Is 
it:       
      400117 44 258/272 .435/.435 455

b)  Any good cam recommendations (A Toronoda like Cam maybe) for more 
Low-end power than stock.  Should I just get new stock Rocker Arm pieces.

c) On Crane's website, this CAM is listed, but I don't know how it 
compares to the Stock one, I'm still learning:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=OLDSMOBILE&Year=1975&Engine_Size=260-455%20C.I.&partNumber=800501&partType=camshaft
(This is the High torque good Mileage Cam ).  Anyone used this?

Again I'm looking at a Snappy Low-RPM 455 to go in a 71 Cutlass with 
Tall Gears and a 200R4 Transmission, so RPM is lower than stock, but the 
car is lighter than a 98.  I want it to go, but Mileage should still be 
good to at cruising (In overdrive with Torque locked should be  < 2000 
rpm ).

On a side note, the 200R4 has lasted a year already in this car, and 
when it was running good I did some hard accelerates, also locked up the 
torque and took it way over 100mph.  At $160, it doesn't need to last 
much longer to be an OK choice for this car IMHO (although most people 
look at me funny when I say thats what I'm using).

Thanx again

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 12:16:58 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: electric choke H*lp

Chris,

I really wasn't paying attention before, but...


> Best guess so far is that all choke bleed air needs to be shut down for
the
> el choke to work properly.


Yes, to the best of my recollection, neither a Holley add-on electric choke
kit for a Holley nor the electric choke on an AFB use bleed air. I'd have to
disassemble one from an AFB to check, but I sure don't remember bleed air.
Furthermore, a Holley double pumper comes with a manual choke. Definitely no
bleed air port, and the Holley electric choke kit bolts right on and works
to replace the manual choke.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:17:56 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: electric choke H*lp

> Further, more... the problem is, that, with THIS engine, the choke coil
gets
> COOLER as you, drive. Which is not, "normal".  This does not happen while
> running, "in the driveway"... only, when "on the road".  This engine's
heat
> crossover is totally, blocked off, so the electric heater, is the, only,
> source of, choke heat.

- -----------------

A trick the factory used on many '77 and up engines that had problems with
the choke closing too quickly on shutdown in cooler weather was to route the
heater hose tightly against the choke coil.  Might help in your case as
well.  The factory bracket  is pretty easy to find.  I'd bet you probably
have one in stock.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 12:30:57 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 1971 Cutlass 455 Update/rethink

Eric,

> Should I just get new stock Rocker Arm pieces.


I'd use adjustable roller rocker arms to get precise valve adjustment and
free horsepower by eliminating the friction of the stock rocker arms.


> c) On Crane's website, this CAM is listed, but I don't know how it
> compares to the Stock one, I'm still learning:


Generally speaking, any aftermarket cam produces more power and torque than
a stock cam. Otherwise, they wouldn't be able to sell it. Manufacturers like
Crane, Crower, Comp Cams, etc., grind in much more aggressive opening and
closing profiles than a stock cam to but more air/fuel mix volume under the
time duration of the valves for more torque and horsepower. That's not just
a function of total duration and lift. You would have to see an entire
graphed profile of the cam from opening to closing to see it, and then
compare that to the entire profile of the stock cam.

You can always call Crane or any other cam manufacturer and talk to the tech
guys on the phone. Tell them your entire combination and intended
application, and they will help you.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:57:11 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: Wagner Thermoquiet brake shoes

I am being offered a discount on Wagner Thermoquiet brake shoes. Anybody
interested? If so, contact me privately.

There is info here:

http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_7226_7293,00.html

John Nasta

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:35:29 -0700
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: Tempus Fugit!

On Thu, Apr 08, 2004 at 01:13:05PM -0700, J Pajak wrote:
> --- Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > Tempus Fugit!
> >
> > John, what's the point of cursing like that here in this forum?! There
> > might be kids reading this stuff!
>
> I guess ya'll were asleep in Latin class?

They didn't teach that in any school I attended throughout the '80s, and I
doubt the situation has since changed.  (Having been born post-Vatican II
would've eliminated the main reason most people would've picked up the
language.)

  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
 / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
 \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 01:04:48 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Tempus Fugit!

At 03:35 PM 4/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>On Thu, Apr 08, 2004 at 01:13:05PM -0700, J Pajak wrote:
>> --- Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> > > Tempus Fugit!
>> >
>> > John, what's the point of cursing like that here in this forum?! There
>> > might be kids reading this stuff!
>>
>> I guess ya'll were asleep in Latin class?
>
>They didn't teach that in any school I attended throughout the '80s, and I
>doubt the situation has since changed.  (Having been born post-Vatican II
>would've eliminated the main reason most people would've picked up the
>language.)

My high-school-senior son is in his 4th year of Latin here in Connecticut.
I asked him why he chose Latin instead of one of the other languages that
might be more useful for communicating with people and he said he thought
it'd be easier. I spose so, he's still on track to graduate with a 3.8 high
school average  :o)))

I also took four years of Latin in high school and dang if I can remember
ANY of it  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 21:09:07 -0500
From: "jbschuren" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Houston TX, WILD 442 sighting

I know this might sound like a stretch.... but who was driving the 70-72
Black 442 with NO HOOD and looked like fully polished GMC 8-71 Blower on top
of a whatever displacement v8 on the Beltway at around 4:45 pm CST
today..... I almost got in a wreck doing a double take.......

JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 22:13:05 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.

- -------------------------------1081563185
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/9/2004 1:32:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
tjosvold@polar7.com writes:
Get the wiper kit from Nuport 
Do they have a Website?

- -------------------------------1081563185
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1276" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 4/9/2004 1:32:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, tjosvold@=
polar7.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>Get the wiper kit from Nuport </FONT></BLOCKQU=
OTE></DIV>
<DIV>Do they have a Website?</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081563185--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 19:36:12 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

I foolishly took out the trunk lid torque rods for reasons I won't reveal
here, and now cannot get them back in.

I have confidence that they are lined up correctly, and that I know _what_
to do (install on hinge, then move to other side and twist rod 180 degrees
until it engages the u-shaped channels - then repeat for other side), it's
just that I can't DO IT - where is the leverage supposed to come from?
Ultimately, how am I supposed to re-install these?  I jacked with it for
hours this evening, no love.

The '84 Body Manual says "use appropriate tool", but it's picture shows the
hooks inboard of the hinges - on my '77, the hooks are outboard (thus
making it very difficult, because you're only working in the space between
the hinge and the quarter).

I have no '77-specific documentation save the chassis manual, which is no
help.  FYI, the rods that came out of my '84 are shorter - is this because
of the body style difference, of because the '84 was a four door - or just
because of the hooks being inboard (that's probably it), in which case I
ask, "Why?"

Thanks - 

Brian
'77 Delta Pace Car

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 20:00:45 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: test



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 22:41:38 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Tempus Fugit!

They teach it at alot of the highschools around here.  It's geared towards
the "sciencey" and honors student types.

Eric

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Scott Alfter
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 5:35 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Tempus Fugit!


On Thu, Apr 08, 2004 at 01:13:05PM -0700, J Pajak wrote:
> --- Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > Tempus Fugit!
> >
> > John, what's the point of cursing like that here in this forum?! There
> > might be kids reading this stuff!
>
> I guess ya'll were asleep in Latin class?

They didn't teach that in any school I attended throughout the '80s, and I
doubt the situation has since changed.  (Having been born post-Vatican II
would've eliminated the main reason most people would've picked up the
language.)

  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
 / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
 \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on
Usenet?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 20:59:57 -0700
From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: pertronix

I, too have been wanting a Pertronix ignition, but which one? I have a
recently rebuilt points distributor that I could rebuild and swap in for the
tired one in my (350)motor... but would a Pertronix-equipped HEI be worth
the extra money? Is there any real difference in the final result? I'm
basically interested in durable, reliable performance.
Mike in baker city, Oregon
'98 intrigue
''72 suburban
'69 442 ragged-top
'69 vista "Vista-Carouser"
and the rest of the "Obsolete Fleet"
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: chris smetana
To: oldslist
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 7:19 AM
Subject: pertronix


Greetings all,
I'm looking to pick up a pertronix ignitor (1181LSCC) and was wondering who
carries it at the cheapest price.  I know Jegs and Summit have them for
$74.95 (and I believe one of them has free shipping, need to double check)
I also found a place in Missouri that lists them on ebay starting at $54.50,
but I need 2 and when I called, buying them outright they are $79 each.  And
they don't plan on listing anymore until sometime next week.  Sooooo, I'm
back to shopping around and would like to know who's got the best deal on
them.

TIA
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

1969 W-31  motor will be ready next month
1970 F-85
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
plus a whole mess of parts for sale


Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4850
*********************************
