
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, April 23 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4866



Car Show Photos
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
Re: Exhaust: 350ci: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
RE: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
O-Type 12 bolt rears - was RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
reproduction OAI base
Re: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
big car 1976 posi rearend forsale
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
Limited Slip Clutch Part Number
wheel well

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 13:40:24 -0500
From: "Doug Newman" <newmand@oldsgmail.com>
Subject: Car Show Photos

Hi folks, 

This past Saturday, (4/17) I took my '87 442 to a car show up in Amory,
Mississippi in conjunction with their 26th annual Railroad Festival.
Not a cloud in the sky, and the high temp only reached 81º.  They had
231 registered entries in 49 classes at the event for their biggest
turnout ever.  (Cars, trucks, bikes, tractors, you name it.)

Since there were so many cars packed in tightly in a small area, I
couldn't take many photos.  I *did* take a handful of some of the
interesting rides that I could get a clear view of.  The link is
http://newmand.oldsgmail.com/carshow4.htm

Thanks to Mark Tupper for posting that page, too.  :-)

Later, 


Doug Newman                  1987 442              OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS                    

http://store.oldsgmail.com                             The Store    
http://newmand.oldsgmail.com                       My Home Page

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 11:50:20 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

The engine can be bored 0.060". To stroke an engine, you use a crank with a
longer stroke, not longer rods. Stroking an engine costs a lot of money. It
would be better to install a big block.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions


> I got air/tools, so I could remove the heads and such, but now I'm
thinking
> a complete engine rebuild if i'm going to go to that kinda trouble.
>
> can you bore AND  'stroke' the rocket 350? or would there be clearance
> issues with longer rods?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 7:36 AM
> Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
>
>
> > If you've never done valve stem seals it is a tedious job.
> > The best way is to take the heads off and send them to your local
machine
> > shop. Do you have an air compressor and air tools?
> > Pat Swanton
> >
> >
> > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 8:19 AM
> > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> >
> >
> > > Thanks for all the suggestions.
> > >
> > > I'll check all this out this weekend.... The underside of the car
where
> > the
> > > motor and trans meet is very oily....
> > > The valve stem seals are original, motor has never been touched. Is
this
> > > something that is fairly easy to do?
> > >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 14:57:34 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust: 350ci: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?

Hey List,

        Has the question of exhuast manifolds been addressed on this
engine ?????   If he has the stock manifolds, one side will be 2"and
the passenger side will be 2.25" ......................  

The General

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 15:00:31 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

JBS wrote:

> I got air/tools, so I could remove the heads and such, but now I'm thinking
> a complete engine rebuild if i'm going to go to that kinda trouble.
> 
> can you bore AND  'stroke' the rocket 350? or would there be clearance
> issues with longer rods?
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 7:36 AM
> Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> 
> 
> 
>>If you've never done valve stem seals it is a tedious job.
>>The best way is to take the heads off and send them to your local machine
>>shop. Do you have an air compressor and air tools?
>>Pat Swanton
>>
>>
>>From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
>>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 8:19 AM
>>Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks for all the suggestions.
>>>
>>>I'll check all this out this weekend.... The underside of the car where
>>
>>the
>>
>>>motor and trans meet is very oily....
>>>The valve stem seals are original, motor has never been touched. Is this
>>>something that is fairly easy to do?
>>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
If you have a compressor then you need the fitting and the valve spring 
compressor for on the car work. Remove the spark plugs put in the 
fitting attach line from compressor compressed air will hold up the 
valves while you remove the springs change the valve seal and reinstall 
the springs and keepers. Do one cylinder at a time. its not too bad.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 12:57:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

- --0-166949251-1082663875=:90807
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

gears (limited slip carrier #671 - I don't know the open carrier 
number). But 
really, do you need something other than 3.42, 3.90 or 4.10 for a 
performance 
street setup? Oh, I forgot you have a W-31, so you'll probably be 
wanting some 
4.33s or lower same as Chris Smetana :)
- --------------------------
Thanks Kenneth   :-)      I'm assuming he still has his original 3.91s, which would be fine for the street.  If he does intend to swap to a C 12 bolt, then 4.10s might be the best choice.  It really depends on what he wants and what he can live with.
 
<snip>

style is supposed to greatly increase the loading capacity. It also 
makes the '70 
axles and housing incompatible with the '67-'69 version - ask me how I 
know this and 
I'll be compelled to relate the story of how I ended up with one of 
each of the 
O-Type 12 bolts Olds made.
- ------------------------------------------
really?  So you have a 68 axle with the factory 31splines?  The only reason I mention this is because the guy I just picked up my 68 TW code factory 31spline 4.33 rear from knows quite a bit about these rears too.  He showed me a factory 31spline axle and a 70 28 spline axle.  And there is a noticeable size difference.  And before I could even finish spitting out the metallurgy thing he said yes I know, but there's still the size issue of the 68 factory 31spline axle vs the smaller 70 28spline axle.
 
And to put in my two cents on a related thread to this topic.  The early 10 bolt 8.2 P (and I'm pretty sure B) axle is similar to the Type O as the axles bolt into the housings.  I have two 8.2 P axle assemblies, one 3.55 open for my 66 GTO and one 3.55 factory 2 pinon posi from a 65 GTO.
 
Chris Smetana - lurking in digest mode
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31  engine will be getting assembled starting next week.
1970 F-85
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car - sitting in Ohio, man I need to go get this thing sometime
plus a whole mess of parts for sale

		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢
- --0-166949251-1082663875=:90807
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>gears (limited slip carrier #671 - I don't know the open carrier <BR>number). But <BR>really, do you need something other than 3.42, 3.90 or 4.10 for a <BR>performance <BR>street setup? Oh, I forgot you have a W-31, so you'll probably be <BR>wanting some <BR>4.33s or lower same as Chris Smetana :)<BR>--------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks Kenneth&nbsp;&nbsp; :-)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm assuming he still has his original 3.91s, which would be fine for the street.&nbsp; If he does intend to swap to a C 12 bolt, then 4.10s might be the best choice.&nbsp; It really depends on what he wants and what he can live with.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&lt;snip&gt;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>style is supposed to greatly increase the loading capacity. It also <BR>makes the '70 <BR>axles and housing incompatible with the '67-'69 version - ask me how I <BR>know this and <BR>I'll be compelled to relate the story of how I ended up with one of <BR>each of the <BR>O-Type 12 bolts Olds made.<BR>------------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>really?&nbsp; So you have a 68 axle with the factory 31splines?&nbsp; The only reason I mention this is because the guy I just picked up my 68 TW code factory 31spline 4.33 rear from knows quite a bit about these rears too.&nbsp; He showed me a factory 31spline axle and a 70 28 spline axle.&nbsp; And there is&nbsp;a noticeable&nbsp;size difference.&nbsp; And before I could even finish spitting out the metallurgy thing&nbsp;he said yes I know, but there's still the size issue of the 68 factory 31spline axle vs the smaller 70 28spline axle.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>And to put in my two cents on a related thread to this topic.&nbsp; The early 10 bolt 8.2 P (and I'm pretty sure B) axle is similar to the Type O as the axles bolt into the housings.&nbsp; I have&nbsp;two 8.2 P axle assemblies, one 3.55 open for my 66 GTO and one 3.55 factory 2 pinon posi from a 65 GTO.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris Smetana - lurking in digest mode</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31&nbsp;&nbsp;engine will be getting assembled starting next week.</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car - sitting in Ohio, man I need to go get this thing sometime</DIV>
<DIV>plus a whole mess of parts for sale</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Yahoo! Photos: <a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=23765/*http://photos.yahoo.c
om/ph/print_splash">High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢</a>
- --0-166949251-1082663875=:90807--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 16:42:46 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

All a-bodies used "C" rear ends at one point or another. Cutlai used  
them from '71 up.
Here's a link to a guy that put discs on his Pontiac rear, Olds should  
be similar:
http://www.buickperformance.com/reardisc.htm

The main problem is illustrated there - making sure that the axle  
bearing is properly located in the axle housing. There may also be a  
housing end bolt pattern difference between the O rears and C rears,  
which would require some re-drilling to make the common rear disc kits  
fit.
I currently have a '77 Seville rear disc setup in my possession, but I  
haven't had time to see if the thing will fit. There may be a problem  
with the caliper loctation, since Sevilles had leaf springs and  
staggered shocks, while A-bodies have coil springs and both shocks  
behind the axle. If so, I can get the brackets and calipers from a  
Deville of similar year, then mix-and-match, because Devilles staggered  
the shocks opposite of Sevilles! You use redrilled Seville/Deville  
rotors, or apparently 79-81 Trans Am rotors are the same except for the  
bolt pattern. I'll let the list know when I know for sure. Rear discs  
mentioned are 11" to go with my soon-to-be-installed 12" front discs  
(with tall spindles, of course.) Here's a neat little breakdown of the  
Caddy and F-body rear discs:
http://www.geocities.com/diels12000/Gmreardisccomparo.jpg
Here's another rear disc conversion using Toro/Eldo calipers:
http://www.citlink.net/~bowtie/rearbrake.htm

This site has all sorts of brake & steering goodies, in addition to the  
chart mentioned above, including a 13" front brake conversion using  
only 2 custom parts (caliper brackets):
http://www.geocities.com/diels12000/
Germane to this discussion is  
http://www.geocities.com/diels12000/RearDiscBrakes.html

I've also been frequenting the "Brakes and Suspension" forum at  
chevelles.com. Lots of good info from the brand C guys, actually. They  
don't seem to mind me wading into their discussions, either! :)

Almost all rear disc setups will require that you machine the wheel  
flange down slightly to fit inside the rotor.
I'm also investigating using a late-model Camaro/Firebird or S-10  
Blazer setup. They're nice in that they use an internal-drum parking  
brake inside the rotor. It's cleaner,  the calipers are cheaper, and  
your existing parking brake cables should work.

I have a pile of brakes and steering bookmarks if you or anyone else is  
interested. Several different takes on Big Brakes and fast-ration  
steering upgrades.

Oh! Mustn't forget eVilBay - there's at least one guy selling just the  
flat steel brackets for rear discs, and I believe that they fit O  
rears. Requires 79-85 Toro/Eldo calipers and rotors. This auction says  
he also has brackets for 64-72 BOP rears:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? 
ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474284647&category=33564&sspagename=WDVW

Um, did I answer the question in there somewhere? :P

krw


On Apr 21, 2004, at 2:40 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 09:07:41 -0400
> From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
> Subject: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
>
> Good day all,
>
> I've been browsing what 4 wheel disc brake options exist for our  
> beloved A
> Bodies.  Of course doing so generated a number of questions.  I haven't
> spoken to any particular manufacturer's tech support yet as my  
> question is
> more Olds/make related than brake related.
>
> Just about every kit out there notes that it is intended for use with  
> "C
> clip axles only".  This has always been a weak area for me  
> knowledge-wise,
> so please bear with me here. I'm fairly certain the factory rear end  
> in my
> W-31 is a 12 bolt "O" type.  And if I'm not mistaken, it does not use C
> clips, correct?  Ergo, will none of these brake kits will work with my
> current setup?  If so then non-O-type Olds rears must use C clip?
>
> Also, I have heard that any Olds rear end requires some type of  
> machining on
> the axle ends/housing ends for the DB install, but I'm not sure that is
> true??
>
> Lastly, I know the Olds 12 bolt isn't a "real" 12 bolt and parts are
> somewhat difficult to find (esp. gears) thus it seems as if a (gasp,  
> shriek,
> horror) Chebby rear may be the way to go, so if I brake it, I won't  
> cry.
> And all brand C 12 bolts use C clips, right?  What about others from  
> the
> B.O.P. lineup, are they all the same?
>
> Any experience/info is mucho appreciato.
>
>   ~ Dan
>
> - -------------------------------------
> Daniel R. Gerow
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                          
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                              
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans:  
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31!  
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be  
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 16:48:32 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

On Apr 21, 2004, at 2:40 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 10:10:55 -0400
> From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
> Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> Your car may have a Cheby c clip axle if it was one of the W 31's made 
> in
> Canada.
>  If it is a O type you are correct, it uses a bolt in axle. Better 
> (safer)
> in my opinion.

Ah, that reminds me. One of the nice things about rear discs is that it 
actually makes those c-clip nasties safer - the caliper and disc will 
retain the axle in the even of a failure, unless it breaks right at the 
wheel flange.

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 14:57:50 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS

> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 12:42:01 -0700
> From: "John Holt sr" <johnlholtsr@hotmail.com>
> Subject: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
> 
> the website for official state of california smog regs is 
> listed under ca dept of consumer affairs, here is the link 
> that spells out the existing up to date smog laws for the 
> state of CA. Model year 76 and later need to be smog checked, 
> 75 and earlier are exempt.

Most people associate CA with having the most stringent smog laws 
in the nation (note the enhanced "CA emissions" systems mandated 
on vehicles sold there), yet the State of Arizona feels compelled 
to smog test all passenger vehicles manufactured from 1967 to the 
present, including motorcycles. Even diesels get some form of smog 
test. You'd think that our backwards little state would "follow the 
leader" when it comes to things like emissions testing, but no such luck.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 15:13:15 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: O-Type 12 bolt rears - was RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

> Although it is true that the Olds "12 bolt" only refers to 
> the cover, since the ring is held on with only 10 bolts, parts aren't all that 
> hard to find.
> Richmond gears I believe carries the gears.  And I know that 
> Greg Rollin from www.SupercarsUnlimited.com has all the goodies for them 
> that you could ever want.  gear sets, limited spin units, bearings, crush sleeves and
> limited spin rebuild kits.

Correct, these parts are available. The gears are manufactured by Richmond Gear, 
and as I posted previously, the only ones available are 3.42, 3.90 and 4.10 sets 
designed to fit the 3.08-3.23 series carrier. Richmond dropped the 3.23 gears sets
several years ago.

Rebuild items are available almost everywhere - bearings are available at the local 
parts store, the clutches and "S" spring are the same as those used in the 8.5 inch 
corporate 10 bolt and are therefore readily available at the GM dealer, online at 
www.gmpartsdirect.com, or at just about any rearend shop. I bought everything I needed 
to overhaul my '68 SF coded 3.23 limited slip rear from Randy's Ring and Pinion. 

What Greg has that is above and beyond the rest are newly manufactured axle shafts and 
limited slip units, which I heard are turned-down frod 8.8 inch units.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 15:23:58 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 08:36:22 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

>  on a note i had a 1968 442 that lost the left axle due to failed brg, 
> was not fun.even though  it was the olds rear with bolt in axles they 
> still can leave the car.
>  ron

I had a similar experience with my '68 O-Type 12 bolt back in college. 
Both the pressed on axle bearing and the pressed on bearing retainer on 
the left shaft came loose during a low speed left hand turn. The car 
started feeling squirrelly, then the back of the car dipped and I saw 
sparks in the rear view mirror. Not a pleasant sight to see the shock 
mount resting on the pavement and the rear tire about three feet outside 
of the wheel well. And all this at 2 am out in the middle of nowhere.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 23:39:13 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

At 03:23 PM 4/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I had a similar experience with my '68 O-Type 12 bolt back in college. 
>Both the pressed on axle bearing and the pressed on bearing retainer on 
>the left shaft came loose during a low speed left hand turn. The car 
>started feeling squirrelly, then the back of the car dipped and I saw 
>sparks in the rear view mirror. Not a pleasant sight to see the shock 
>mount resting on the pavement and the rear tire about three feet outside 
>of the wheel well. And all this at 2 am out in the middle of nowhere.

I don't rember what car is was but on one of mine decades ago, all the ball
bearings disappeared between the races so the inner race slipped out and
tore out the retainer ring. IIRC, I happened to notice this when I was
across the street from my house and happened to glance at my car: one rear
wheel looked odd, like it was sticking out a little further than the other,
so I investigated and flabbergasted myself  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:37:09 -0400
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

Kevin, Kenneth, Milton et al,

Again, much thanks for great info on both the axle differences and brake
options.  I checked out some of the links Kevin posted and they're packed
with braking goodness.

It seems the plan of attack is to go with a Chebby rear end and some 3.73 (I
do currently have the original 3:90s) for highway-ability.  As for the brake
kit, mo' money and mo' research will be the deciding factors.  However,
armed with my new found knowledge I'm that far ahead of the game...someone
tell my wallet to catch up please!

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post (needs big brakes, a T-56, on yeah, and a restoration)
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:56:15 -0400
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: reproduction OAI base

Another random question:  Does anyone reproduce the OAI air cleaner base
unit?  I see the flapper lids but that's all.

Rock on,

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 21:50:54 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS

Unfortunately, in Arizona, there's a fascist streak, perpetuated by the
Phoenix 40 and their successors, the Greater Phoenix Leadership, which is
made up of a bunch of very liberal CEOs of well-to-do Phoenix based
companies. You see, they know what is good for us. They have way too much
influence in the state legislature.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 2:57 PM
Subject: RE: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS


> > Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 12:42:01 -0700
> > From: "John Holt sr" <johnlholtsr@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: CALIFORNIA SMOG LAWS
> >
> > the website for official state of california smog regs is
> > listed under ca dept of consumer affairs, here is the link
> > that spells out the existing up to date smog laws for the
> > state of CA. Model year 76 and later need to be smog checked,
> > 75 and earlier are exempt.
>
> Most people associate CA with having the most stringent smog laws
> in the nation (note the enhanced "CA emissions" systems mandated
> on vehicles sold there), yet the State of Arizona feels compelled
> to smog test all passenger vehicles manufactured from 1967 to the
> present, including motorcycles. Even diesels get some form of smog
> test. You'd think that our backwards little state would "follow the
> leader" when it comes to things like emissions testing, but no such luck.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 05:51:37 -0400
From: "w-machines" <w-machines@comcast.net>
Subject: big car 1976 posi rearend forsale

I have a rearend out of a 1976 Olds 98 which is the 9 3/8 housing with a
2:42 gear and is a posi.  The rearend is complete from drum to drum.   8
years ago, a buddy of mine had the rearend rebuilt.  5000 miles after the
rebuilt he smashed the front end of the 98.   He then parked the car.  I got
the rearend a year ago from him and was going to put it in my 72 98.
Decided not to use it.   I am asking 275.00 for it.  Will consider offers.
regards
WMACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 09:16:06 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

Thanks for the clarification...
A 455 would be nice..... but I'm pretty sure I don't have the funds to do a
swap like, and do it correctly.

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions


> The engine can be bored 0.060". To stroke an engine, you use a crank with
a
> longer stroke, not longer rods. Stroking an engine costs a lot of money.
It
> would be better to install a big block.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 6:44 AM
> Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
>
>
> > I got air/tools, so I could remove the heads and such, but now I'm
> thinking
> > a complete engine rebuild if i'm going to go to that kinda trouble.
> >
> > can you bore AND  'stroke' the rocket 350? or would there be clearance
> > issues with longer rods?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 7:36 AM
> > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> >
> >
> > > If you've never done valve stem seals it is a tedious job.
> > > The best way is to take the heads off and send them to your local
> machine
> > > shop. Do you have an air compressor and air tools?
> > > Pat Swanton
> > >
> > >
> > > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 8:19 AM
> > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > >
> > >
> > > > Thanks for all the suggestions.
> > > >
> > > > I'll check all this out this weekend.... The underside of the car
> where
> > > the
> > > > motor and trans meet is very oily....
> > > > The valve stem seals are original, motor has never been touched. Is
> this
> > > > something that is fairly easy to do?
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 08:51:59 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Limited Slip Clutch Part Number

I'm presently installing a set of 3.42 gears in my 1971 8.5" corporate 
10 bolt. I disassembled the limited slip unit last night and it looks 
like the clutches are very worn. The tabs that locate on the notch in 
the carrier have very deep, pronounced circular "features" (for lack of 
a better description), while the areas of the clutches that actually mate 
with each other are nearly mirror smooth. The outline of the circular 
features can be seen, but they are not nearly the same as the tab areas. 
My question is, should these features be uniform across the clutch surface? 
I'm guessing yes, and I need to replace the clutches. Does anyone have the 
GM part number for them? I know I can order them from any number of sources, 
but I'd like to get them now so I can finish up this weekend, and I'd like 
to have the part number when I go to the dealership so I'm not given the 
wrong part. Also, does anyone know the torque value for the cross pin 
retaining bolt? 

Please respond directly as I'm on digest and may not see replies there in time.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 16:05:31 -0400
From: "Sherman Higgins" <goodfoot@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: wheel well

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 would it be  possible to remove the wheel well without having to remove the fender on my 1965 442 ?




Sherman Higgins
goodfoot@ix.netcom.com
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
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<HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD>
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<DIV>&nbsp;would it be &nbsp;possible to remove the wheel well without having to remove the fender on my 1965 442 ?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Sherman Higgins</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:goodfoot@ix.netcom.com">goodfoot@ix.netcom.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P></P></BODY></HTML>
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4866
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