
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, April 19 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4859



Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
RE: gear box rebuild
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
'69 455 & Th400 FS in KS
Re: gear box rebuild
350 engines
harmonic balancer bolt
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Re:1970 Olds 4-D Delta 88 for Sale
Re: gear box rebuild
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
Re: "68 Horn
Re: all 67 442's are....
wiper part still needed
Re: Looking for driver's door or door skin in Bean Town
Re: Toro Pickup on Evil Site
Re: "68 Horn
Re: "68 Horn
Re: Spam from Lazaro?
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Fuel gauge MAX!/sender ground?
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
GM Photo store/stock,custom?paint.
Re: harmonic balancer bolt
Mr. Clean AutoDry Coupon
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
FS: 1967 Delta 88 Custom
350 Engines
Harmonic Balancer Bolt
spark pulg wires
Re: 68 400 stock rings
Air Compressor Settlement
Vent flexible Ductwork
Re: 68 400 stock rings
Re: Toro Pickup on Evil Site
'64 Olds CSM set & 394 FS
Re: Vent flexible Ductwork
RE: Anyone done a water pump on a '96 Silhouette/Lumina/Trans Sport minivan?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 11:48:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

I bought one of these things this week and was pleased to read good
reports on the list about it. I tried it for the first time this AM and am
disappointed to say the least. Something's wrong somewhere but I dunno
what. 

I followed the directions, washing the Intrigue in the shade on a breezy
morning. I did it in sections as instructed. It left a residue on the car.
The soap didn't seem to rinse off well. It's almost as if the breeze dried
the soapy solution before the rinse water could sheet it off. That
filtered rinse is such low pressure, almost a mist, that the breeze may
have played havoc with it, I dunno. But now I have to rinse and wipe it
down again. Strange, it's the worst hand wash I've done in 30 years.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 09:18:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: gear box rebuild

- --0-1718954513-1082305117=:96669
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Chris Witt wrote
 
>your box is leaking
>you need to re-seal it
>why get recirculating balls
>just replace the seals
 
The box that is on the car now is a used one, and when I had the car in for alignment it was recomended that I replace the box, along with a new center link. The oringinal I still have and it also leaks. Either way I really don't like the response or feel of either gear box, ever since the front end rebuild I have felt that something was still not right.
 I trust the place I get my front end aligned (ther'e older than my car) and have been in business for quite some time now. These guy's are happy when "Good old American come rolling in!!" 
I guess I should have mentioned this in the original post, I tend to leave info or details out. At least thats what my boss tells me.
 
Bill G
67 Delta 88 Custom
87 Custom Wagon(almost there)


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Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>Chris Witt wrote</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;your box is leaking</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;you need to re-seal it</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;why get recirculating balls</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;just replace the seals</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The box that is on the car now is a used one, and when I had the car in for alignment it was recomended&nbsp;that I&nbsp;replace the box,&nbsp;along with a new center link. The oringinal I still have and it&nbsp;also leaks. Either way I really don't like the response or feel&nbsp;of either gear box, ever since the front end rebuild I have felt that something&nbsp;was still not right.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;I trust the place I get my front end aligned&nbsp;(ther'e older than&nbsp;my car) and have been in business for quite some time now. These guy's are happy when "Good old American come rolling in!!"&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I guess I should have mentioned&nbsp;this in the original post, I tend to leave info or details out. At least thats what my boss tells me.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bill G</DIV>
<DIV>67 Delta 88 Custom</DIV>
<DIV>87 Custom Wagon(almost there)</DIV></DIV>
- --0-1718954513-1082305117=:96669--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 12:40:10 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

> filtered rinse is such low pressure, almost a mist,

High wind (more than a breeze) could be the problem, but I wonder what is
your water pressure and volume are like?  I am on a well these days, but the
line I use for washing cars is within ten yards of the well head.  Lots of
pressure and high flow.  Works great.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 13:09:23 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: '69 455 & Th400 FS in KS

List,

I was contacted privately for some info and help selling a '69 455 & Th400
combination. I only know what is listed below. The seller does not have
e-mail. His daughter has been e-mailing me the info. Please contact Joe
directly. Joe Slechta in Kansas (620-456-2947) Asking $800.

- ----  info I've received  -----------
The motor is a 1969, it had 73,000 miles on it when he got it and he put
about 17,000 miles on it, so about 90,000 miles. He said it is a good solid
motor that runs good but uses oil and he would probably rebuild it. The
Th400 trans is in good working condition. The block casting number on the
motor is 396021 and the head casting letter is "C."
As for the code on the trans, he couldn't find the metal tag, but did find
the number 39X128116.

For whatever its worth, he said it has all correct "bracketry," and then he
mentioned a bunch of other stuff only a buyer would care about.

Dad said it is just a 2 barrel carb (not the original Quadra Jet carb) and
everything else is original except he put on an hei distributor.

He'd rather not break anything up, he just wants to sell the whole thing.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 13:31:01 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: gear box rebuild

> The box that is on the car now is a used one, and when I had the car in
for alignment it was recommended that I replace the box, along with a new
center link. The oringinal I still have and it also leaks. Either way I
really don't like the response or feel of either gear box, ever since the
front end rebuild I have felt that something was still not right.
>  I trust the place I get my front end aligned

- ------------------

I'd wager 99% of the front end looseness is the center link. It is a weak
spot on the '65-'70 big car chassis. If you have the Saginaw design, they
are a bit hard to come by, but there are a few guys rebuilding them.  Hit me
privately if you run into a stone wall finding one.  I'd reseal or send out
for rebuilding the original box.  If you send it out, there are guys who can
convert it to variable ratio and modernize the feel a bit.  I don't mind the
'60's steering feel if everything is tight.  It does take a bit of getting
used if you mostly drive new cars.

Regards,
Fred
Several '69 big Olds + others

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 12:46:23 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kkroger@birch.net>
Subject: 350 engines

0.00 That's right no charge, hurry, hurry first come first served.

2 early (1970) 350's
one has valve damage Was 2Bbl. now has 4Bbl. Alu EGR intake.
One is an original High Comp 4 Bbl. engine with iron intake no carb.
Both must go, 4Bbl. Engine comes complete with wrecked 69 Cutlass 2 Door
Eng was running when car was totalled unfortunately if you want the engine
you get the car.

Trans is shattered, Drive shaft is bent, frame is severely tweaked and body
is shot.
About the only thing worth having here is the engine and it will likely need
a rebuild.
But both blocks are solid.
Both engines are complete.

Contact me off board if you live in the greater KC area and can pick up.
within the next two weeks. If you are interested and are unable to pickup
Let me know and we can arrange something.
If not within the next two weeks it all goes to scrap.

IT ALL MUST GO!!!!!!!!
Kerry Kroger

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 10:28:01 -1000
From: "Christopher Brown" <Olds-Supreme72@hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: harmonic balancer bolt

I sent out last night but don tkno if it got through.  Im in the middle of
an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a trick to
this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.  Any advice is
greatly appreciated.

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme (still a pretty looking paperweight)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 15:57:51 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kkroger@birch.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

Bolt does not have reverse thread that I am aware of however it is a good
sized bolt under a great deal of torque
You will need to use a large breaker bar and a means to hold the crank from
turning there are tools made to hold the flywheel/ flexplate, or you can
create something of your own, I have heard that some folks use a stop bolt
in a spark plug hole. but I don't recommend that, if you have access to
power tools try an impact wrench either air or electric.
if not try this get a length of nylon rope that will feed in through a spark
plug hole, tie a BIG knot in the bitter end of it.
Feed in from the opposite end until you get a bunch of it in there. then
rotate the crank around to bring that cylinder up
when it locks on the rope you will be able to loosen the bolt. Good luck
give a shout if it works for you.
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christopher Brown" <Olds-Supreme72@hawaii.rr.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 3:28 PM
Subject: harmonic balancer bolt


> I sent out last night but don tkno if it got through.  Im in the middle of
> an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
> bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a trick
to
> this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.  Any advice is
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Chris Brown
> 72 Cutlass Supreme (still a pretty looking paperweight)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 16:14:34 -0500
From: OLDSmobility <OLDSmobility@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

Christopher Brown wrote:

> I sent out last night but don tkno if it got through.  Im in the middle of
> an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
> bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a trick to
> this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.  Any advice is
> greatly appreciated.
> 
> Chris Brown
> 72 Cutlass Supreme (still a pretty looking paperweight)
> 
> 


Attach a piece of angle iron to the bellhousing bolt holes, and extend 
the angle iron into the flywheel teeth. That'll keep the reciprocating 
assembly from rotating while you loosen the bolt. IIRC it's regular 
thread, not reverse.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 14:15:16 -0700
From: Deane Bristow <home9front@charter.net>
Subject: Re:1970 Olds 4-D Delta 88 for Sale

For Sale at a local yarde, as Steve H. says, a 1970 Olds 4-D Delta 88 
for sale. The yarde bought it from the person cleaning up the 
deceased owner's property to settle the estate, the owners used the 
Olds when they visited the West coast. Un-cracked dash pad, a decent 
interior with good door panels, all the hub caps and a bad case of 
"car port" finish on the paint. Looks mighty restorable to me, Rocket 
350 and, I presume, a THM 350 trans. Richard the owner says he wants 
$500 for it. It was driven there and parked late last fall.

Why don't I buy it? I don't have a shop of my own but I do have my 
small flotilla, and my marriage. On occasion the two come together 
but without significant damage to date; another car could begin and 
unfortunate, ah, event.

The car is owned by Pop's Wrecking here on the upper left edge of the 
continent, 541-574-3808. Please tell Richard where you heard about 
it, I'm tryin' to get the guy to crush less and recycle more.

Deane Bristow - Newport, Oregon
'88 Oldsmolet SW - '72 Old SB.,060 over, balanced, ported, polished, 
A-4 intake, CC quadrajet 2004-R
'84 Delta 88 Royale Coupe - No Vinyl, black, red bench int., low 
option, debadged cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 19:13:22 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: gear box rebuild

William Grumblatt Jr wrote:

> Chris Witt wrote
>  
>  >your box is leaking
>  >you need to re-seal it
>  >why get recirculating balls
>  >just replace the seals
>  
> The box that is on the car now is a used one, and when I had the car in 
> for alignment it was recomended that I replace the box, along with a new 
> center link. The oringinal I still have and it also leaks. Either way I 
> really don't like the response or feel of either gear box, ever since 
> the front end rebuild I have felt that something was still not right.
>  I trust the place I get my front end aligned (ther'e older than my car) 
> and have been in business for quite some time now. These guy's are happy 
> when "Good old American come rolling in!!" 
> I guess I should have mentioned this in the original post, I tend to 
> leave info or details out. At least thats what my boss tells me.
>  
> Bill G
> 67 Delta 88 Custom
> 87 Custom Wagon(almost there)
Bill G
    I don't know exactly what you mean by "something is not right" with 
the steering box but there is a really simple over center adjustment 
that might fix the feel. Then the reseal is not too hard
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 19:58:23 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

> Hi Greg,
>
> Sorry to hear that it didn't work good.
> My wife bought one for me yesterday.  I am wondering how it will work on
our
> unfiltered spring water.
> Maybe you don't have enough PCB's in your water up there in the great
white
> north..
>
> Joe Walters
> 73 H/O
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Greg Beaulieu" <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: "Oldsmobile" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 10:48 AM
> Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View
>
>
> > I bought one of these things this week and was pleased to read good
> > reports on the list about it. I tried it for the first time this AM and
am
> > disappointed to say the least. Something's wrong somewhere but I dunno
> > what.
> >
> > I followed the directions, washing the Intrigue in the shade on a breezy
> > morning. I did it in sections as instructed. It left a residue on the
car.
> > The soap didn't seem to rinse off well. It's almost as if the breeze
dried
> > the soapy solution before the rinse water could sheet it off. That
> > filtered rinse is such low pressure, almost a mist, that the breeze may
> > have played havoc with it, I dunno. But now I have to rinse and wipe it
> > down again. Strange, it's the worst hand wash I've done in 30 years.
> >
> > Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> >           Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 20:24:24 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: "68 Horn

Well I didnt end up working on the horn ....way to busy this weekend with
other stuff....but at least the car starts everytime...so I think I have
that problem solved...thou time will tell!

Thanks again for all the help and info...I have saved all emails and will
try working on the horn as soon as I can! I would like to get it
working....even if it means buying new horns!

Ended up having to bleed the brakes but now at least they are up to snuff! I
can stop....LOL Thats a good thing!

Washed and waxed my baby and did some interior cleaning. Tried to get some
more of the trim on but dont think I have the right clips...not sure...going
to visit a body shop that told me last yr to come in and they would help me
out. I have a ton of clips of differant types....just have to figure out
what goes with what trim pieces. Also am planning on getting some new eye
brows for around the headlights.

Thanks again for all the help....

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 01:05:17 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: all 67 442's are....

> [unless he can get us the
> actual car's owner phone # by chance, and we can verify VIN as
not-338xx...
> and a real 442...


Unfortunately, the original owner now resides in Arlington, with a Navy
Cross cited on his white cross.

Semper Fi

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 06:16:26 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: wiper part still needed

Hi All
    As memory served someone on this list has a gen I toro parts car?
I need a wiper switch really badly. I fixed the washers (I thought) 
until I realized that if the wipers are on the washers are pumping or 
trying to. I ran the diagnostic from the csm and it comes down to a 
wiper switch. Anyone?
thanks
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 09:37:51 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for driver's door or door skin in Bean Town

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Hi Guys,
       I was contacted by a guy from Boston area looking for a good door or 
skin for a 71 Cutlass convertible.  Anyone in that area know of a decently 
priced part for this gentleman?  Please contact him directly at 
vze2ptw3@verizon.net   if you are able to help or furnish the part.  His name is Rich.

Thanks,
Steve D

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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Hi Guys,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I was contacted by a guy from Boston ar=
ea looking for a good door or skin for a 71 Cutlass convertible.&nbsp; Anyon=
e in that area know of a decently priced part for this gentleman?&nbsp; Plea=
se contact him directly at <A HREF=3D"mailto:vze2ptw3@verizon.net">vze2ptw3@=
verizon.net</A>   if you are able to help or furnish the part.&nbsp; His nam=
e is Rich.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_d9.82d93f9.2db13baf_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 07:54:00 -0500
From: OLDSmobility <OLDSmobility@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Toro Pickup on Evil Site

Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote:

> Keith,
> 
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=247370617
> 
>>>0
> 
> 
> 
> Add the 0 behind the 7. It caught me the same way.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> 
> 
> 
> 

whoops..missed that. Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:11:00 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: "68 Horn

Thanks Kenneth... for a couple of trouble shooting ideas! I am hoping to
figure it out this weekend!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 13:11:14 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: "68 Horn

  i have some really good wireing digrams around from the days of my 1968-1972 cutlass/442 days, if
you need i can go scour around to find them  for you
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 4:31 PM
  Subject: Re: "68 Horn


  > Thanks Ron for all the info.....I'll be checking it out in a bit...had to
  > check emails to see what needed to be done....LOL
  >
  > Tami
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 16:57:04 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Spam from Lazaro?

David J. Duffner - Trofeoworld.com wrote:
> 	Anyone else getting apparently spam from a
> 'Lazaro' asking you to call him when you get in 
> the Office?  I'm presuming, since I have no idea 
> who this is, it's someone who snagged a copy of
> the List's members and is fishing to see who's
> valid so we get more lovely spam?
> 
> 
Yes I got it too. I've never heard of this person and couldn't wouldn't 
call even if I had a number so there.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 18:10:31 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

> > an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
> > bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a
trick to
> > this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.

Not reverse threaded, just tight.  The real answer is an impact gun.  Even
the electric ones will usually get it.  Failing that, find something to hold
the reciprocating assembly in place and use a long breaker bar.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 00:58:55 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Fuel gauge MAX!/sender ground?

Hello
I been busy installin a fual pump/reg/gauge on the 58, but i sure would like a working fuel gauge.
I been told when the gauge goes straight to full as soon as you turn the key the tank/sender is not getting a grd?
The gauge worked before?
In the shop man. i dont see a grd. wire only the symbol.
I remember just the one wire(grey) to top of tank..power.
So the grd. must be threw the straps and the painted rebuilt tank itself to frame/body?
Someone suggested soldering on a grd wire to tank?
Maybe its the printed circuit board on back of gauge set?
If i could lighten up with out havin a full tank all the time i could break into the low 15s :)
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 16:00:52 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

No reverse thread on that fastener, torque spec = 250lbs+, and that "+" is 
printed in the manual. That means impact wrench full throttle for torque 
when assembling. So, no wonder it doesn't want to budge 30+ years later, 
unless you put a flywheel lock and have a real big breaker bar. For a lock, 
anything rugged, bolted to the flywheel that hits your engine stand to 
block it from rotating will do.

This is a good example where an impact is worth a lot. Maybe it is time for 
air tools. ;) There are good electric impacts out there too, but nothing is 
better than an IR at 120psi...

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 01:15:58 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: GM Photo store/stock,custom?paint.

Hello
There are some nice pics on this site.
http://www.gmphotostore.com/source/Detail.aspx?L1=oldsmobile&L2=12124&imageId=1897354&action=&ss=
There is a thread goin round the 58 forum about paint inbetween the chrome a diff. color then body if this was a stock option or not.
I have seen alot of custom paint schemes like this.
The dealer pics ect never show anything but the roof one color(White)and the body one other color.
Apparently some are being led to believe(due too this one pic.)that this may have been a stock option on paint?
Anyone old enough to remember seeing a stock 58 from factory with paint between the chrome diff color then the body?
Randy H.
58 88
72 Cutlass convert.
72 Cutlass(Bu*ck430)



__________________________________________________________________
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Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

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New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 14:33:40 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer bolt

Chris,


> Im in the middle of
> an engine tear down on the Supreme, and cant get the balancer/crankshaft
> bolt off.  All I succeed in doing is turning the crank.  Is there a trick
to
> this?? Ive also heard that the bolt is reverse threaded.


No, the bolt is standard right hand thread, but it's torqued to 150 foot
pounds.

Is the engine now out of the car? Is it on an engine stand? Remove the
flexplate. Thread 2 long 1/2" bolts into the flexplate bolt holes opposite
each other. Make sure the bolts are long enough to hold a crowbar between
them. Have a second person hold a crowbar at that end of the crank to lock
the crank as you remove the front crank bolt with a very long 1/2" drive
breaker bar.

If the engine is still in the car, one person will have to get under the car
and use a wide flat blade screw driver to lock the flexplate on one of the
starter ring teeth against the transmission bellhousing, while you remove
the front crank bolt with the long 1/2" drive breaker bar.

If you have an air driven impact wrench available, just lock the crank
anywhere with some moderate resistance, and the impact wrench will do the
rest to remove the bolt.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 13:42:16 -0500
From: Branson Sparks <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Mr. Clean AutoDry Coupon

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
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I searched through all of the messages on the list that I have received, 
and found no mention of this. If this has already been posted, please 
disregard this message.

http://www.homemadesimple.com/mrcleanautodry/coupon.shtml

This is a coupon for $5 off the Mr. Clean AutoDry system.


Thanks,
Branson

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 12:47:22 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kkroger@birch.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

Are any of my posts making it to the list?
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View


> > filtered rinse is such low pressure, almost a mist,
>
> High wind (more than a breeze) could be the problem, but I wonder what is
> your water pressure and volume are like?  I am on a well these days, but
the
> line I use for washing cars is within ten yards of the well head.  Lots of
> pressure and high flow.  Works great.
>
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 13:30:03 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View

Hi Greg,

Sorry to hear that it didn't work good.
My wife bought one for me yesterday.  I am wondering how it will work on our
unfiltered spring water.
Maybe you don't have enough PCB's in your water up there in the great white
north..

Joe Walters
73 H/O


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Beaulieu" <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: "Oldsmobile" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 10:48 AM
Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry - Minority View


> I bought one of these things this week and was pleased to read good
> reports on the list about it. I tried it for the first time this AM and am
> disappointed to say the least. Something's wrong somewhere but I dunno
> what.
>
> I followed the directions, washing the Intrigue in the shade on a breezy
> morning. I did it in sections as instructed. It left a residue on the car.
> The soap didn't seem to rinse off well. It's almost as if the breeze dried
> the soapy solution before the rinse water could sheet it off. That
> filtered rinse is such low pressure, almost a mist, that the breeze may
> have played havoc with it, I dunno. But now I have to rinse and wipe it
> down again. Strange, it's the worst hand wash I've done in 30 years.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>           Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 09:31:09 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: FS: 1967 Delta 88 Custom

A friend of mine has a 1967 Delta 88 Custom, 2 door hardtop with a 
425/TH400, PS, PB, AC, PW, Power Bucket Seats, Factory Console. Arizona car, 
straight, no rust. Needs paint and interior. Runs & drives. $1000. Not sure 
how many of these Custom were built, but the bucket seat floor shift Delta's 
are neat cars. Contact me off list. Thanks!

Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ
69 H/O #89
69 W31 S Post 4spd
69 Cutlass S Holiday (parts car)
95 Cutlass Conv
01 Aurora
62 Starfire Convertible (FOR SALE)
(too many cars, otherwise I'd get this)

_________________________________________________________________
>From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring 
Travel Guide! http://special.msn.com/local/springtravel.armx

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 10:59:09 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kkroger@birch.net>
Subject: 350 Engines

0.00 That's right no charge, hurry, hurry first come first served.

2 early (1970) 350's
one has valve damage Was 2Bbl. now has 4Bbl. Alu EGR intake.
One is an original High Comp 4 Bbl. engine with iron intake no carb.
Both must go, 4Bbl. Engine comes complete with wrecked 69 Cutlass 2 Door
Eng was running when car was totalled unfortunately if you want the engine
you get the car.

Trans is shattered, Drive shaft is bent, frame is severely tweaked and body
is shot.
About the only thing worth having here is the engine and it will likely need
a rebuild.
But both blocks are solid.
Both engines are complete.

Contact me off board if you live in the greater KC area and can pick up.
within the next two weeks. If you are interested and are unable to pickup
Let me know and we can arrange something.
If not within the next two weeks it all goes to scrap.

IT ALL MUST GO!!!!!!!!
Kerry Kroger

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 22:05:59 -1000
From: "Christopher Brown" <Olds-Supreme72@hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Harmonic Balancer Bolt

All,

How does one go about removing the Harmonic Balancer/Crankshaft bolt with
the engine on a stand?  And on a related note, is said bolt reverse
threaded?

Thanks,

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme (Up on jackstands while engine gets resurrected)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:35:17 EDT
From: Ayashkeefer@aol.com
Subject: spark pulg wires

- --part1_196.285b1d96.2db1c7b5_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

howdy guys,i am looking for spark plug wires for my 1960 super 88,thank 
you,keith soden,oca #035738

- --part1_196.285b1d96.2db1c7b5_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">howdy guys,i am looking for spark p=
lug wires for my 1960 super 88,thank you,keith soden,oca #035738</FONT></HTM=
L>

- --part1_196.285b1d96.2db1c7b5_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:18:35 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings

Rob,

You just said a mouthful.


> Advance Auto got us ring set #E-251X which are way
> too big, but they say THAT is the correct ring set.  They are so far off,
> there is no way you can file them, or anything.


Yeah, that's the correct ring set for a '65-'67 Olds 400 with a 4.000" bore!
They didn't listen to you when you told them a '68-'69 with a 3.8700" bore.


> Maybe with your
> recommendation of #E-298X, that will conclusively resolve the problem.  I
> will get right on it.


Tell them to re-read the parts book.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 00:20:07 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Air Compressor Settlement

Listmembers,

For those of you that purchased air compressor between August 1, 1996 and 
January 30, 2004:

http://www.aircompressorsettlement.com/

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 09:39:12 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: Vent flexible Ductwork

All,
	I'm in the process of getting the dash back together today, and
realized/forgot that my old flexible ductwork to the dash vents are quite
dry rotted.
	Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement supplier?

I spoke with a friend and he said to try a marine supply store as they use
similar stuff with boats.

Thanks,


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:37:40 -0400
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings

Thanks Milton, please ask him and see what info can be found.  Thanks again
for your efforts!

Rob
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>

Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings


> As I said before, your standard bore size is 3.870". For a 3.875" bore, my
> 2000 Sealed Power catalog shows:
>
> E245K - 8 cylinder &
> E245X - 8 cylinder = 283 Chevy V8, 307 Chevy V8, '54-'56 324 Olds V8, 350
> Pontiac V8. I would suspect these rings would fit your stock pistons okay.
>
> E450K - 4 cylinder &
> E450X - 4 cylinder = 153 Chevy L4.
>
> E234K - 6 cylinder &
> E234X - 6 cylinder = 230 Chevy OHV and SOHC L6, 250 Chevy L6, 250 Pontiac
> SOHC L6.
>
> I just showed the GM applications. I didn't bother with the other
automotive
> brands.
>
> The one catch is, I don't know if the front edge to back edge distance of
> the ring will match the depth of the ring grooves on your pistons. If it
> does, you're in business. The catalog doesn't give that dimension.
>
> If you want me to ask Al at Merles Auto about these rings on Monday and
see
> what he can find, I will. Just let me know.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 22:02:59 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Toro Pickup on Evil Site

When I first saw this thread I thought it was a "toro pickup" - as in oil
pickup, with the deeper pan.

Is this a real factory conversion?

At 07:54 AM 04/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote:
>
>> Keith,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2473706170
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 23:06:04 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: '64 Olds CSM set & 394 FS

I sold the '64 Super 88, so I don't need the manuals or the spare 394 any
longer.

Complete 5 manual set, covers worn, insides are fine, $45 includes media
mail shipping.

'64 394 2v motor, ran when pulled about 4 years ago. $200 Can deliver within
a few hours for gas money.

I also have 2 Slim Trans, one needs rebuilt, other was good enough to move
the car around the yard...never drove it at any farther to check it out
fully. $25 each + shipping. Yes, thats $25!

All items are in Honey Brook, PA 19344. Hit me privately at
rocket455@worldnet.att.net if interested.

Randy Geisel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:50:28 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Vent flexible Ductwork

  shop vac hoses come in different dia. find the corect dia and use it works great and last longer
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@direcway.com>
  To: "Olds" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 10:39 AM
  Subject: Vent flexible Ductwork


  > All,
  > I'm in the process of getting the dash back together today, and
  > realized/forgot that my old flexible ductwork to the dash vents are quite
  > dry rotted.
  > Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement supplier?
  > 
  > I spoke with a friend and he said to try a marine supply store as they use
  > similar stuff with boats.
  > 
  > Thanks,
  > 
  > 
  > Steve Reed
  > '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
  > '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
  > '68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
  > Austin, TX
  > http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:21:15 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone done a water pump on a '96 Silhouette/Lumina/Trans Sport minivan?

>you see the ba$tards at gm engineering gave you something easy now try to
>change the plugs.

>Ugh, yes, those and the oxygen sensor; I'm not looking forward to doing 
>either project.  :-(

Oh, come on....what's unreasonable about removing the motor mounts and rotating the entire motor forward while supporting the motor with GM tool XYZ%^$#%$ at the same time to change spark plugs? Quit your whinin'...you only gotta do it every 100K miles. ;o)

Watch your coolant level after you get that water pump done Andy. If I remember right, yours (or your Dad's?) "used" coolant but you couldn't find a leak. My Silhouette did too. It was the intake gasket slowly going away. I never lost enough at a time to ever see any in the oil, until the gasket really failed. I had the plugs replaced at the same time this repair was made. Was told by the service manager that the intake gasket failure is pretty common on the 3.4L. If you go to the trouble to get the plugs in view, it might be worth the effort to check it while you're there.

Eric Holcombe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4859
*********************************
