
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, March 26 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4831



Re: Super stock ones, 15x7 and Disc brakes
Re: SS1 Tire Size
Re: Super stock ones, 15x7 and Disc brakes
UNBOUNCE: electronic ignition for '51 olds 303
RE: Sad day
RE: opinions on a car....
RE: more q-jet questions
Radiator interchangability question
not on list - Subject: 1953 Rocket 88 Parts (MANY)
Re: Choke conversion
Re: Choke conversion
Re: opinions on a car....
RE: Bolts cleaner working OK so far
8-track
Re: Sad day
RE: Choke conversion
Re: opinions on a car....
Re: opinions on a car....
Re: Has anyone seen this
Re: Has anyone seen this
Re: Has anyone seen this
Re: more q-jet questions
Re: more q-jet questions
test post
Re: test post
Re: test post
RE: test post
Re: test post
Re: test post
Re: Sad day
Re: Has anyone seen this
Re: test post
Re: Sad day
Parts cleaner v1.5
Priming the Oil System 101

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 22:09:05 -0800
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Super stock ones, 15x7 and Disc brakes

Michael:

They will fit, no problem. As Ken says, the 14 inchers are the worrysome 
ones. There are the early rims that don't clear the disk brakes and one has 
to be careful not to get those. There is easy ways to determine by looking 
at the wheel (e.g. on 14" SSI). I think you are all set with the 15" ones. 
If they would not clear stock disk brakes, they couldn't sell the suckers 
to anyone!

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 22:11:26 -0800
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: SS1 Tire Size

I have dunlop gt qualifiers, a bit lower profile, I think 65 which really 
helps cornering and gives a better ratio too with my stock 2.78 on the 442. 
Very happy with these. I think they stick better than the BFG. I have the 
BFG on the cutlass...

George
71 442 SSI
71 C/S SSII

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 00:56:11 -0600
From: "Michael Brady" <mbrady38@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Super stock ones, 15x7 and Disc brakes

> Michael:
>
> They will fit, no problem. As Ken says, the 14 inchers are the worrysome
> ones. There are the early rims that don't clear the disk brakes and one
has
> to be careful not to get those. There is easy ways to determine by looking
> at the wheel (e.g. on 14" SSI). I think you are all set with the 15" ones.
> If they would not clear stock disk brakes, they couldn't sell the suckers
> to anyone!
>
> George

Hello George,

Your making me feel better about my purchase!! Now I need to start figuring
out what size of radial redline tire I want for them!!...........

Thanks for jumping in George!! I appreciate it.

Michael Brady
1966 442 Factory L-69
OCA-IVOC-NAOC-Starfire Club
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 07:03:24 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: electronic ignition for '51 olds 303

>From a new member...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   RonRo1951@aol.com
Subject: electronic ignition for '51 olds 303

I'm wondering if anyone has used electronic ignition in any form on their 303 
v-8 engine.

I'm interested in a kit similar to Pertronics ignitor, where all of kit fits 
inside of the distributor, replacing the points set.

I would also be interested in the model # or other identification of the 
distributor used in the '51 olds 88, as I am unable to read the data plate 
attached to mine. 

Thanks in advance, for any iput that can be given. Sincerely, Ron Robinson.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 08:28:55 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Sad day

At least she's going to a good home.  That's always important.



Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser





>From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Sad day
>Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 22:17:10 EST
>
>Hey everyone
>
>Well,  today they came and picked up my 64 442.
>
>It is going to Canton,  Ohio,   but first it is stopping off in Florida for 
>a
>fram off.
>
><sigh>
>
>Oh well
>
>Vinny
>68 H/O  #511

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 08:38:30 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: opinions on a car....

The headliner in no big deal, any trim shop can replace it for around $100, 
depending upon the local going rate.

I doubt a flat lobe would cause low compression.  If anything a flat lobe 
would keep the valve shut to some extent and the compression would be fine.  
Look for a burnt valve or broken/worn rings.

As far as cam swaps go, a 307 cam would be fine in a 260 as long as it's a 
similar style.  The 307 roller motors used different sized lifters in some, 
if not all cases than what the flat tappet 260's used.
We are running a 70 455 cam in a 307 and it's a pretty noticeable step up in 
performance and sound.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 07:52:14 -0600
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: more q-jet questions

I put 25 inches of vacuum on each of them.  Out of the 6, none would pull in.  On one of them, if I pushed it in, and held a vacuum on it, it would stay in for a couple of seconds then leak down.

BTW  The plastic one I bought was incorrect.  The shaft was about 1/4 inch too short.  I have one on order, and should be here by Saturday.

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Steve Harrison [mailto:k0xp@dandy.net]
 > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 6:17 PM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: RE: more q-jet questions
 > 
 > 
 > At 03:06 PM 3/24/2004 -0600, you wrote:
 > >The original is metal, the new one is plastic.  The good news is I 
 > >have 6 bad ones to play with. Today that is good news.  Two days 
 > >ago it was bad news.  :)
 > 
 > How didja confirm they're all bad, sucked on the spigot? I 
 > have yet to run
 > across a bad one on an e-Qjet.
 > 
 > SteveH
 > 
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 08:06:39 -0600
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
Subject: Radiator interchangability question

Is the 4-core radiator out of a 69 Delta the same as the 4-core radiators in
the 69 442?



Pat Clark
IGNITION INC.
P 972-516-8700
F 972-516-8690

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 06:19:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Wiles <royale455@yahoo.com>
Subject: not on list - Subject: 1953 Rocket 88 Parts (MANY)

>From the yahoo group oldsmobilerocketpower.
I do not know this person but thought someone might be interested in these parts
Please contact him directly.

- -on digest mode
Gary 

>Subject: 1953 Rocket 88 Parts (MANY)
>
>Howdy all,
>
>My name is Samuel and I am attempting to help my 74 year old neighbor
>sell his many spare parts for a 53-4 rocket 88.
>
>He has dang near everything EXCEPT the rear trink lid, rear quarter
>panels - maybe a few other rear - odds n ends.
>
>these parets were gargage kept and much of the original upolstery is
>still, in my humble opinion, quite nice. there is no rust to speak of.
>
>So some of the parts that i am aware of include; both front and rear
>doors, all glass all seats, streering column, horn, engine block (w/o
>covers) and yes the dynaflo transmission. All the front quarters hood
>and all of the rocket emblemage... please call me at 970-381-7854
>(Greeley, CO.) if you or some one you know are/is interested. serious
>inquiries only.
>
>Thanks,
>Samuel

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 09:32:25 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Choke conversion

I'm interested in this topic as I'm planning on the same conversion this
year.

When you say a switched terminal, does that mean one that can be turned on
or off? Or does the electric choke need to have power to it at all times?
(while the car is running of course)

Thanks.

Bill Reilly

Events Coordinator
Eastern Mass. GMO Chapter
Oldsmobile Club of America

william.reilly@comcast.net

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>


> Most 75 and up carbs used an electric choke ..........
> Grab one from a yard, hook up 12 volts from a
> "switched" terminal - you are all set ...
>
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 09:51:12 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Choke conversion

So it has power only when you turn the ignition on.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Choke conversion


> I'm interested in this topic as I'm planning on the same conversion this
> year.
>
> When you say a switched terminal, does that mean one that can be turned on
> or off? Or does the electric choke need to have power to it at all times?
> (while the car is running of course)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Reilly
>
> Events Coordinator
> Eastern Mass. GMO Chapter
> Oldsmobile Club of America
>
> william.reilly@comcast.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
>
>
> > Most 75 and up carbs used an electric choke ..........
> > Grab one from a yard, hook up 12 volts from a
> > "switched" terminal - you are all set ...
> >
> > The General
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 10:36:59 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: opinions on a car....

At 05:43 AM 03/25/2004 +0000, SteveH wrote:

<all other stuff snipped>
>
>And besides that, having a cam lobe go flat at only 29K miles would be
>unusual even on a Ch*bby, let alone an Oldsmobile. Ch*bby had a lotta cams
>go flat in the late-'70s/early-'80s but they at least used to last some
>50K-100K miles.


Yeah, that was the one thing that started ringing alarm bells for me.  The
only reason I could think of that it would make sense is that it was his
mother's car who really only drove it very short distances, like 1 or 2
miles to a grocery store, the neighbor's the local church, etc.

He didn't actually use the "short trips" explanation as to why the cam is
bad, but it was mentioned when I asked if the car had been sitting, so I'm
wondering if the fact that the car has probably never warmed up fully in
its life might be the reasoning.

Yeah, I don't know where the heck he got his NADA info from either, but I
never brought it up.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 09:30:53 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: Bolts cleaner working OK so far

Please shoot me some pictures, Chris!
Ian Dixon

======================================
OK, got the prove-out tumbler bolts cleaner up and running today. First,
I 
found that too much fodder does not tumble, it just sits there. Removed 
about half the items, the rest tumbled just fine. Added some oil-dri,
just 
got dusty. Added some water with Spic-n-Span in it, NOW it looks
effective. 
Water gets dirty, therefore, bolts are getting clean. Started about 6pm.

Checked in about 11pm, VERY nice results. Only the toughest spots still
a 
bit dirty. Worm type hose clamp- was very grungy- looks like new. Took
one 
intake bolt out, wiped with tissue, only a very small amount of grunge
in 
the threads area. Toughest spots to get clean are of course the recessed

heads of e.g. the oil pump bolts, oil pan corners bolts, rocker cover
bolts, 
etc. Oil-dri got pounded into dust and shoved into the lower pail thru
the 
holes in the tumbler pail. Otherwise the thing worked great. Plastic
pail is 
nice and quiet, can leave it running as long as I like. Non-solvent
cleaning 
agent means I can do it in the house, not worry about fumes or spillage
or 
fire.

Larger unit now in planning, with slightly different cleaning agent and 
tumbling media.
Pix of this unit upon request.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 09:50:25 -0600
From: "Steven Saraceno" <steven@purplemonkey.com>
Subject: 8-track

Just got my 8-track housing back from Randy. Looks fantastic. I also bench tested my player and holy car it works - to Neil diamond and others of the period. If you all our looking for a repair or parts Randy can help. he provides repair service, repro mounting brackets, rear support brace, ground straps, drive belts or gauge/stereo housings for that matter. he even gave me complete directions to bench test, cut the valence and install. his email is w70442@hotmail.com

steven
70 W-30 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 10:49:54 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sad day

- -------------------------------1080229794
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A good home   is always good

vinny

- -------------------------------1080229794
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>A good home&nbsp;&nbsp; is always good</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1080229794--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 08:54:46 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Choke conversion

> Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 20:47:07 +0100
> From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Andr=E9_Meijers?= <Andre_Meijers@wxs.nl>
> Subject: Choke conversion
> 
> I'm planning to convert the choke on my Rochester Qudrajet 
> from hot-air to an electrical one.
> 
> Where to find any info about this or how to do it?
> Shouldn't be that difficult, just need to find the parts.
> 
> André
> 
> '74 Cutlass Salon

I got an electric choke coil (and its wire with the connector) from 
a salvage yard for $6. I was told to look for an '82 or so Camaro V-8 
as they all had electric chokes and the yards are littered with those 
cars. Installation was very easy - just remove the three screws holding 
the hot air choke coil on the side of the carb, screw then new one on, 
and connect the wire to a switched 12 Volt source. As Ron pointed out, 
it's not a good idea to splice into the coil feed wire. I ran the wire 
all the way to the fuse box and plugged it into the IGN terminal, which 
has voltage only when the key is in the START or RUN position.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 10:11:15 -0600
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: opinions on a car....

On Mar 24, 2004, at 11:49 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 05:43:32 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: opinions on a car....
>
> At 11:07 PM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>> Anyway, take a look at the following ad:
>>
>> http://www.cars.com/search/used/cc/standard/results/single/ld/ 
>> detail.jhtml?p
>> aId=142126582&aff=national&src=&cid=
>>
>> You'll probably have to cut & paste that in chunks to get it to work.
>>
>> Now, there's a catch.... the headliner may be so-so... owner told me  
>> it
>> came down, and that he reglued it and it looks "pretty good".  No  
>> biggie.
>>
>> Also, he said that the defroster used to fog up the windshield BADLY,  
>> to
>> the point he couldn't see.  Shop charged him $500 to fix that, and I'm
>> assuming that means a new heater core was put in.
>
> That's absolutely INCREDIBLE. That's as bad as the PO of my '83 M*libu
> wagon having paid $1100 to AAMCO to get the 350C tranny rebuilt back  
> in '92.
>
>> The real gotcha, is that it runs rough.  The shop the guy goes to  
>> says it's
>> got low compression in cyl #1, and that it's because it needs a new
>> camshaft.  That's something I've never done, nor do I have the time  
>> to do
>> as I'm looking to get this as a "nice driver" type of car.
>
> $1950 seems an awful lot for an '82, especially with the above  
> problems.
> And I wonder about his claim that the NADA blue-book value is $7K.....  
> at
> that rate, I couldn't afford to own an '82 and pay my city's taxes on  
> the
> thing!

NADA actually does list "High Retail" for this car at $7125 for my area  
(Dallas/Ft. Worth TX). Low is $2150, Avg is $4725. 'Course, they also  
list it in the Classic Cars: Muscle Cars section, and only offer check  
boxes for 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. for options. No mileage adjustment or  
anything.

I'd have to look at it first, but I'd agree that $1950 is a bit much  
for something that may have a dying engine. Then again, stuff never  
rusts down here in TX, so older drivers are pretty cheap and plentiful.  
And I'm a cheapskate. :) It does *look* nice.
I like edmunds.com for a little more realistic pricing, especially for  
cars between "Classic" and "less than 10 years old". they don't have an  
option checkbox for the 260, or the 3.8, but they do list the 4.1 V6,  
4.3 V6 diesel, 5.0 and 5.7 V8 Diesel... Let's see AC, assumed Cruise  
Control, PDL, PW, Tilt... 29,200... no option for 290 V8, so I didn't  
check anything, which means it'll probably assume 3.8 V6?
"Clean" condition says $382 trade-in, $549 Private Party, $829 Dealer  
Retail, in my area code (76040)
"Outstanding" shows same prices.
Same prices whatever engine option is checked.

There was a documented '86 or '87 for sale at a local swap meet a few  
years ago here. It was genuine little old lady owned, low miles, and  
basically a custom-ordered car that was a 442 without the 442  
appearance package. Looked like a regular Cutlass Calais, but had the  
Olds 350 and 8.5". buckets, console. Black. Beautiful. Under $3000 IIRC  
(and I may not, because my memory *sucks*, and I couldn't afford it  
anyway.)
>

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                          
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                              
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans:  
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31!  
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be  
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 11:43:21 -0500
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: opinions on a car....

Joe,

> Also, he said that the defroster used to fog up the windshield BADLY, to
> the point he couldn't see.  Shop charged him $500 to fix that, and I'm
> assuming that means a new heater core was put in.

Wow $500 for a heater core.  The shop saw him coming

> The real gotcha, is that it runs rough.  The shop the guy goes to says
it's
> got low compression in cyl #1, and that it's because it needs a new
> camshaft.  That's something I've never done, nor do I have the time to do
> as I'm looking to get this as a "nice driver" type of car.

This [camshaft replacement needed] would be a very unusual situation for the
milage.  Even high milage 260s run for a long long long time.   My hunch on
this is:
1) The car runs rough because its running on the original 1981
plugs/wires/cap/rotor/PCV/breather/fuel filter/air filter.  Change them and
the 260 should run excellent.
2) The shop saw him coming again and they are jacking him for another high
price job.  They may have even done a compression test, but we dont know
what they are calling low (exact # from compression measurement).  If he
brought the car in for the work, I would not be suprised if they would
probably tune it up and collect their $750 once the car runs smooth, and
claim to have replaced the cam shaft.

Now if you had a verifiable source that said cyl #1 is low compression, than
you have a non-tune up situation.  If I were you, I may consider bringing
the $50 in ignition parts and tune it up myself and see if it still runs
rough.  Then buy it if it runs well.  If the miles are accurate, I would say
the price is not out of line at all, you dont see that kind of low milage
every day.

Rob
Free Olds classifieds and Olds car registry at www.allolds.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 16:54:39 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen this

>And they purposely put it in a '64 88 and then put '64 F-85 headlights and 
>a
>grill in it?

Yes.

>Also the beat up body?

The "beat up body" probably evolved that way over umpty-thousand miles of 
borderline-abusive testing.

>All this when the engineers had access to new parts from the assemblyline?

That would depend very much on _when_ the car was built and _when_ the photo 
was taken, neither of which is known for certain. If nothing else, it looks 
like some effort was made in this case to make the car nondescript in 
appearance, probably to enable a lot of real-world driving in various 
locations.

By comparison, there are some really bizarre bodywork efforts preserved in 
archival photos. One such whopper is a one-off car constructed for testing 
the new (for 1959 era) Corvair powertrain as shown in Volume 4 of the 
"Pictorial History of Chevrolet" book series. It doesn't look like a 
Corvair, or anything else; it's a sort of rounded-soap-bar shape with some 
basic hardware like headlight assemblies probably snagged from commercial 
van parts bins.

So in other words, test mules may be all over the map, appearance-wise, 
ranging from complete hack jobs to all-out custom efforts to 
carefully-camouflaged production lookalikes like what we've been discussing 
here.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 12:51:40 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen this

Listmembers,

I took a look at the picture in question, and here's what I noted:

1) The "Bart Simpson" on the front of the passenger's side of the bumper 
looks like the turn signal light's dangling there.

2) Take a look at the tires.  They look like they've been off-road a little, 
mud on the sides like they could have been really flinging this puppy around 
to stress-test the drivetrain.

3) I agree on the "road" as it doesn't have a center stripe (and doesn't look 
quite wide enough for two lanes anyway) so this could have been at a GM test 
facility.

I'm tempted to get the sucker to just have an unusual piece of GM history.  
I'd REALLY like to see the car itself but I bet it's long gone.......

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 11:35:16 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen this

> 3) I agree on the "road" as it doesn't have a center stripe (and doesn't
look
> quite wide enough for two lanes anyway) so this could have been at a GM
test
> facility.


Except that I've seen too many back-country roads in Missoura, Arizona, New
Mexico, and Nevada (most recently in June '03) that don't have a center
stripe and are just barely wide enough for 2 cars to pass (the old Hatch
cut-off for I-10 in New Mexico from Deming to Hatch before they finally
widened it is a classic example). It could still be a GM test track, but it
still could be a back country road. It could still be a GM test mule, or it
still could be private ingenuity and enterprise.

There's still no absolute proof to the claim the photo came from GM Olds.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 10:53:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Geo <geogeethree@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: more q-jet questions

I was going to ask that myself.  I have collected at
least a half-dozen of those things from '70-74
quadrajets and all are still good.  I also have a
plastic pulloff and it is from a '69 carb (#29251)
like someone else mentioned.

Geo 
'72 442


>>> Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 00:17:04 +0000
>From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
>Subject: RE: more q-jet questions

>How didja confirm they're all bad, sucked on the
>spigot? I have yet to 
>run
>across a bad one on an e-Qjet.

>SteveH


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 14:16:31 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: more q-jet questions

At 01:53 PM 3/25/2004, you wrote:
>I was going to ask that myself.  I have collected at
>least a half-dozen of those things from '70-74
>quadrajets and all are still good.  I also have a
>plastic pulloff and it is from a '69 carb (#29251)
>like someone else mentioned.
>
>Geo
>'72 442
>
>
> >>> Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 00:17:04 +0000
> >From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> >Subject: RE: more q-jet questions
>
> >How didja confirm they're all bad, sucked on the
> >spigot? I have yet to
> >run
> >across a bad one on an e-Qjet.

One thing to note; I believe these pulloffs have a vacuum bleed, so that 
you can't test them with a hand vacuum pump; you need a constant vacuum 
source to test them.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 13:22:48 -0600
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
Subject: test post

I am not quite sure that my posts are going through. If someone can read
this, could they please post a reply?

Thanks,

Pat Clark
IGNITION INC.
P 972-516-8700
F 972-516-8690

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 14:29:15 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: test post

Crystal clear.............
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
To: "OLDS LIST (E-mail)" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 2:22 PM
Subject: test post


> I am not quite sure that my posts are going through. If someone can read
> this, could they please post a reply?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pat Clark
> IGNITION INC.
> P 972-516-8700
> F 972-516-8690
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 14:39:41 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: test post

works fine pat   :-)
john
67 cutlass supreme


                         I am not quite sure that my posts are going
through. If someone can read this, could they please post a reply?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 13:39:03 -0600
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
Subject: RE: test post

Got a response!
Thanks,


Pat Clark
IGNITION INC.
P 972-516-8700
F 972-516-8690


- -----Original Message-----
From: swanny [mailto:swannys78@adelphia.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 1:29 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: test post


Crystal clear.............
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
To: "OLDS LIST (E-mail)" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 2:22 PM
Subject: test post


> I am not quite sure that my posts are going through. If someone can read
> this, could they please post a reply?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pat Clark
> IGNITION INC.
> P 972-516-8700
> F 972-516-8690
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 14:57:39 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: test post

Crystal clear John  :-)
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: test post


> works fine pat   :-)
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme
> 
> 
>                          I am not quite sure that my posts are going
> through. If someone can read this, could they please post a reply?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 13:36:17 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: test post

Read you 5 x 5.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark, Pat" <PClark@Ignition.com>
To: "OLDS LIST (E-mail)" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 12:22 PM
Subject: test post


> I am not quite sure that my posts are going through. If someone can read
> this, could they please post a reply?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pat Clark
> IGNITION INC.
> P 972-516-8700
> F 972-516-8690

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 13:26:17 -0800 (PST)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sad day

Hello Vinny  Canton, Ohio?  Is this a musuem that
bought it or a private owner?  Hey with the $ u can
buy a nice Cutlass and have some left over>  Later,
Ken
- --- HURSTOLDZ@aol.com wrote:
> Hey everyone
> 
> Well,  today they came and picked up my 64 442.
> 
> It is going to Canton,  Ohio,   but first it is
> stopping off in Florida for a 
> fram off.
> 
> <sigh>
> 
> Oh well
> 
> Vinny
> 68 H/O  #511
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 21:45:29 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen this

> There's still no absolute proof to the claim the photo came from GM Olds.

Well, can anyone make out the Michigan Plate on the front?  I suspect it is a
'65 plate.  Definitely Michigan - Says Water-Winter Wonderland on the bottom.
Has to be '65 or '67 - '66s were light colored.  '68 they changed the slogan to
Great Lakes State.  Prior to '65 the slogan was Water Wonderland.

Can't imagine anyone would have a new, wrecked Toronado in '67 and then slap a
old Dynamic 88 body on it...

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 17:12:20 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: test post

Clark, Pat wrote:
> I am not quite sure that my posts are going through. If someone can read
> this, could they please post a reply?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pat Clark
> IGNITION INC.
> P 972-516-8700
> F 972-516-8690
> 
> 
Oh Pat
   Your posts are working. now say something interesting and important
:))
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 18:16:32 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sad day

- -------------------------------1080256592
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 3/25/2004 5:47:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kwt_1950@yahoo.com writes:
Hello Vinny  Canton, Ohio?  Is this a musuem that
bought it or a private owner?  
Might be a museum  or a car collector.

Why ?

I had to sell the car due to a $7000 medical bill that came up.

Vinny

- -------------------------------1080256592
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 3/25/2004 5:47:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, kwt_1950=
@yahoo.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>Hello Vinny&nbsp; Canton, Ohio?&nbsp; Is this=20=
a musuem that<BR>bought it or a private owner?&nbsp; </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></D=
IV>
<DIV>Might be a museum&nbsp; or a car collector.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Why ?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I had to sell the car due to a $7000 medical bill that came up.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1080256592--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 23:43:31 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Parts cleaner v1.5

well, the bolts cleaner pooped out the gearmotor after load #2.

Luckily, found another candidate, same thing exactly except for spins 2x as 
fast, which is still pretty slow- about 6 seconds per turn, loaded.

Have run several loads thru now, with very pleasing results. Some crud still 
resides in the threads, and of course head and main bolts at least should 
always be wire brushed anyhow, but most things come out REAL NICE, like 
almost totally ready to paint. Does a pretty good job on rusty parts, too. 
While it will not magically fix severe rust- you cannot have a perfect bolt 
from say the exhaust manifold after 30 years of rusting, it will leave what 
metal is there intact. Often, other bolts are similar, the recessed circle 
in the head I am thinking, and those ones come out perfect and ready to 
serve as exhaust bolts for the exacting restorer who wants the correct bolts 
in every detail. Seems like every bolt has 5-6 different manufacturers or 
variatons, too.

If I had bought the device, I would be pretty satisfied with the purchase.  
The kids love to toss items in- Wesley Eli got the honor of the First Part, 
and Michael tossed in the second part. It is quite fascinating to watch the 
hundreds of all-Olds fasteners tumble into and out of the grungy water. The 
sound is very pleasing, as well- the bell-like parts make very melodious 
sounds as they tumble. Like a beach, with wind chimes, almost. And the best 
part, perhaps? It does all this while you are... elsewhere, doing other 
things. It happens all by itself, with minimal tending to change the juice, 
and remove clean parts and re-load with grubby parts.

Cleans a lot of different things very nicely, among the samples so far:
- --------------------------------------------------
all manner of nuts and bolts from 1/4" RACover to the crank snout bolt and 
washer.
U-bracket for lifting engine- LH front of intake
exhaust bolt locks
wire and line clips
starter support brackets
throttle rod
body ground straps
Valves
Oil slinger behind the front main seal
crankshaft square keys
Distributor hold down clamp
Fuel pump eccentric
Oil pump drive rod
Intake manifold vacuum fittings


Does not do so well on:
- ---------------------------------
Electrical items, the terminal tends to get broken off. [OP sensor, water 
temp sensor]
Recessed heads of fasterners such as rocker cover bolts.

User must not load the receptacle too full, or the proper tumble action will 
be inhibited, and the process is not nearly as effective.

Anything you might feel needs protection, just apply silicone to it, the 
process does not seem to affect silicone nor remove it. The process is 
really VERY gentle. Brass vacuum nipples come thru with perfect threads, and 
nice shiny brass everywhere else. Might be a touch of paint left here and 
there. It does make ground straps more coppery colored wire with shiny brass 
terminals, not silvery as original.

So, I now have a HUGE array of nice, clean, pretty bolts. I have had the 
things for years, and still have several pails to cleanse... but now I have 
_nice clean_ fasteners and brackets and such. I have been sorting them out 
too, to facilitate easy access to say that spacer that always seems to get 
lost, or the special rocker studs used on the 1965 engines, that special 
thin washer used under the 5/16-NF nut on the Fuel Pump moiunt, the special 
thick 7/16 copper coated washers used on the motor mount bolts, etc.

Anyone need odds and ends? Need your project's small parts cleaned up, save 
you hours at the solvent tank?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
All the action. All the drama. Get NCAA hoops coverage at MSN Sports by 
ESPN. http://msn.espn.go.com/index.html?partnersite=espn

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 23:50:08 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Priming the Oil System 101

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 10:23:49 -0500
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Oil Primer - I was Wrong....

I posted my results with a homemade oil primer for my BB Olds build up.
I had stated that the distributor needed to be in place for full oil
pressure.....Well, since I had rebuilt 3 BB Chev engines prior to the
Olds, I was thinking that they were the same. Milton and the service
manual were correct.....

Paul Tumolo
==================
Ah, yes
Speaking of priming the oil system...
Today I found out why it's preferable to put the plugs in the back of the 
engine BEFORE you put the engine on the stand and assemble it. And run the 
oil pump. [With your 1/4" rod welded to a 5/16" 6pt socket]

:-)
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4831
*********************************
