
oldsmobile-digest        Saturday, May 1 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4874



Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
RE: Paintless Dent Repair
fun with A/C (resend?)
Re: fun with A/C (resend?)
Date:   Fri, 30 Apr 2004 08:29:30 -0400
Vintage Air
Re: Vintage Air
Re: Vintage Air
RE: Power Steering Pulley Removal 102
Re: Vintage Air
Life imitates art, sort of...
RE: fun with A/C
Re:1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?
RE: fun with A/C
RE: 1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?
RE: Vintage Air
RE: 1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?
RE: fun with A/C
TH200C torque converter
Headlight Housing
Rear Control Arm Hardware
Re: Headlight Housing
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
RE: Rear Control Arm Hardware
RE: Rear Control Arm Hardware
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
killer 403 kit available ...............
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP
'73 Supreme for sale
Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 00:00:50 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

i could care less what  general morons build anymore. 
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Alfter" <scott@alfter.us>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP


> On Thu, Apr 29, 2004 at 07:46:26AM -0400, ron fama wrote:
> > now the gto is comeing back in a front wheel drive version if im correct .
> 
> FWIW, the new Goats are RWD and powered by a 350-ci V8.  They're kinda
> spendy, though, which goes against what muscle cars used to be.
> 
>   _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
>  / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> (IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
>  \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 21:16:53 -0700
From: "Jeff and Sherie Stanish" <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: RE: Paintless Dent Repair

It's been a while, but I think mine was around $100.  The price at Dentpro
was based on the size of the dent.

Sherie Stanish
Campbell CA

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of David Popadic
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 12:48 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Paintless Dent Repair


How much does something like this cost?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 02:08:48 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: fun with A/C (resend?)

My apologies if you've all seen this from me already, but I never saw it
show up on the list, thus the resend...

- --------------------------------
And yes, it actually, technically, involves not one, but two oldses!

Don't know if you all recall, but I used the freon from my deceased 86
Delta to charge up the Honda beater I have.

Got the R12 manifold set pretty cheap thanks to a fellow lister here, I
believe Fred, but my memory's never been what it once was . . er, well, you
get the idea.

So the Honda was fine.

But fast forward almost a year, now it seems that the car's a tad low
again.  Bummer, I guess I should've probably changed that somewhat
tempermental schraeder valve from the beginning.

So I figure, hey, I'll simply transfer the freon back to the Olds, swap the
Honda's valves, then transfer back to the Honda.

After doing all this, and having a heck of a time getting one of the valves
OUT of the Honda, it starts raining on me.

And then, it seems the freon that went into the Olds mostly vanished....
huh?!  Hm, I guess a car that sits in disuse for a while will tend not to
have the most perfectly sealed AC system.

On top of that, it probably wasn't the best idea to keep the hoses on my
manifold set tightened all the way and sitting for months.  Apparently even
a little bit of movement sideways, turning the thing around, or whatever,
would cause the hoses to loosen just enough off the gauges that freon would
leak out.


QUESTION:  does having left the hoses connected to the gauges tightly, for
almost a year, mean that I've permanently damaged the rubber seals on the
hose ends?  If so, do I have to replace the entire hose, or can the rubber
seals be replaced separately relatively easily?



So, behold the results of a series of cascading goof-ups over time!  I got
some of the freon back in the Honda, but not enough.  I don't think it's
much worse off than it was before I started playing with it, though.

The second Olds gets into the mix because I figured, okay, I'll take the
R12 that the 1972 Olds 98 isn't really using.

Hmm, apparently when cars sit for a lengthy period of time, and had
not-entirely-well-maintained AC systems in the first place, that the stuff
tends to vanish!  Still, I managed to get a few puffs of it outta the car.


Now, this is only mildly exciting.  It's a lot more interesting when I
throw in the fact that the 1986 Delta had to be jump started EVERY time I
wanted to start the darn thing, because the battery no longer holds a
charge.  Oh, and did I mention it was raining?  And got windy, too!  It
made the mediocre-to-begin-with-and-low-on-freon Honda's AC seem very
impressive when I turned it on, or at least my cold, soaking-wet hands
thought so!



Anyway, now I'm thinking great, I'll probably have to get someone to add a
bit of R12 somewhere.  But I figure the going rate's going to be slightly
on the frightening side for a pound of the stuff.


Then I remember something from this list again!  Or at least I think I
remember.... wasn't there one or two people here that used this stuff
called "ES-12"?

How's the ES-12 behaved in the long run?  Does it play nicely with the old
mineral oil used in the R12 systems?  I'm thinking I might just use ES-12
instead of R12.  Unless someone's got a can of the latter dirt-cheap....

One day, eventually, I'll learn to do things the right way the first time
around.  :)

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 07:35:33 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: fun with A/C (resend?)

> QUESTION:  does having left the hoses connected to the gauges tightly, for
> almost a year, mean that I've permanently damaged the rubber seals on the
> hose ends?


Not necessarily, but if they are damaged, the seals are cheap (under $1.00)
and easy to replace.


> How's the ES-12 behaved in the long run?  Does it play nicely with the old
> mineral oil used in the R12 systems?  I'm thinking I might just use ES-12
> instead of R12.

ES 12 and Duracool are both hydrocarbon blends.  They work fine as a
replacement for R-12 and you won't hurt anything by topping off.  EPA does
not like this, nor will any shop that sees the car in the future.  However,
given the beater nature of the car in question, I doubt this is much of a
concern.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 08:29:30 -0400
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: Date:   Fri, 30 Apr 2004 08:29:30 -0400

> Year One does list the same part number
>for the entire headlight assemblies by side for 1969 - 1972.

YearOne is incorrect. A '70 headlight bucket is different than a '71-'72
bucket like Steve stated. Not sure about the '69's.

69 is different for 70+ at least the headlight doors.  Different part number
on them.  

Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 09:02:48 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: Vintage Air

Anyone have any experience with Vintage Air? Need most of the parts for 
the AC on for one of my 98's. With all the stuff needed and the need to 
update the system anyway to a non cfc media I'm thinking about a Vintage 
Air system. Want to keep the stock control HVAC levers but the rest is in 
pretty sad shape.

jk  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 08:19:00 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Vintage Air

I was lookign at them for my trans am. I liked the hot rod air setup better.
It can be worked on (eg. blower motor replaced etc) without evacuating the
freon like you need to do with the vintage air setups. They are all pricey
though but they clean up the engine compartment very nice since it is all an
underdash unit and you mount the ext5erior components where you want them.
Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack Kopf" <jkopf@optonline.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 8:02 AM
Subject: Vintage Air


> Anyone have any experience with Vintage Air? Need most of the parts for
> the AC on for one of my 98's. With all the stuff needed and the need to
> update the system anyway to a non cfc media I'm thinking about a Vintage
> Air system. Want to keep the stock control HVAC levers but the rest is in
> pretty sad shape.
>
> jk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 09:24:42 -0400
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: Vintage Air

   I saw one of their systems on a 67 super sport...  have to say, it was a
damn nice set up. the owner told me it worked great...
john
67 cutlass supreme in sorry need of a/c replacement

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 09:58:43 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Power Steering Pulley Removal 102

<The Harbor Freight $22 PS pulley remover/installer works great. It grips on the 
<pulley snout. Works on many PS pulley designs.

Amidst all the pulley pullin' discussion, I was thinking the same thing. I have a similar puller and have used it a few times. Never had to heat, hammer or break anything.

Eric Holcombe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 09:52:34 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Vintage Air

> Anyone have any experience with Vintage Air? Need most of the parts for
> the AC on for one of my 98's. With all the stuff needed and the need to
> update the system anyway to a non cfc media I'm thinking about a Vintage
> Air system. Want to keep the stock control HVAC levers but the rest is in
> pretty sad shape.

- ---------------------

Jack,

If your car has factory air, I'd get rid of the POA valve with Old Air's POA
eliminator kit, make new hoses, and replace any other parts as needed and go
from there.  There is really nothing wrong with the factory system using the
A6 compressor.  This will likely work better and cost less than an add on
aftermarket system.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 14:04:13 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Life imitates art, sort of...

In one of those mildly boggling coincidences, the death of Oldsmobile this 
week was marked by, among other things, the death of Olds this week (Fredric 
C.). His memorial service is tomorrow:

http://www.legacy.com/chicagotribune/LegacySubPage2.asp?Page=LifeStory&PersonId=2175265

Among other things, Mr. Olds was Retired Executive Editor for Power 
Engineering Magazine.

You just can't make this stuff up...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 14:21:16 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: fun with A/C

>So I figure, hey, I'll simply transfer the freon back to the Olds, swap the
>Honda's valves, then transfer back to the Honda.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but somewhere along the line in this bucket-brigade 
process, don't you have to repressurize somehow? I mean, if you're just 
using R-12 canisters to run Freon out of one car and into another, you will 
eventually reach a point where you've equalized the pressures between both 
cars, the donor and the recipient, at which point it doesn't seem like you'd 
be able to push much anymore in either direction.

I know each car has a compressor, but (1) the donor car's system was dead, 
right? and (2) you're drawing off and adding to the low-pressure side rather 
than the high-pressure (I assume). So the bottom line I think is that you're 
only going to have so many chances to draw off a good quantity of Freon 
before the lack of residual pressure starts working against you.

This is all academic, of course; whatever's worked for you so far is fine. 
I'm just saying that I believe the end of the road for this strategy is 
closer than you think.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 11:21:22 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re:1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?

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In a message dated 4/29/04 8:55:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
dgerow@stonehill.edu
 writes:

> Hans &Steve,
> 
> I'm not sure either way, HOWEVER Year One does list the same part number for
> the entire headlight assemblies by side for 1969 - 1972.
> 
> Part # 9087N fits '69 - '72 Left-Hand (driver's side) Inner
> 
> This includes Wagner sealed-beam headlight, mounting bucket, retaining ring,
> and screws.  There is also a "universal" adjuster screw set that fits '67 -
> '72 models.
> 
> Individually, the parts are listed as fitting 1969 - 1972 as well, so I
> would assume that NOS parts would fit in accordance to this as well.
> 
> Sounds like you can use '69 - '72 parts on your '70 according to Year One.
> 
> Just FYI.
> 
> ~ Dan

Dan, Randy, Listers,
       Actually Dan and Year One happen to be correct on this.  The problem 
lies with the terminology I guess.  What one person calls "buckets" is what 
another calls "housings" I guess.  I looked in the Oldsmobile Parts Catalog last 
night in an attempt to clear the air on the names of the parts and to see what 
Oldsmobile actually called all of the parts in question.  After searching for 
the parts in question, namely the headlight sections on a 70 Cutlass, which 
is referred to as the F-85 in the Catalog because it is the base model for the 
Cutlass, 442, W 30, W 31, SX, etc, I am left more confused than when I 
started.  Here is what I found:
The first entry is what Olds called the part, then the part number(s), then 
the common name most people call the part as far as I know

Headlamp Door       404776, 404777  Polished Aluminum  These are what most 
people call 
the headlight bezels.  They are the shiny parts that surround the headlights 
on the outside

Headlamp Housing-Support  404748, 404749 Plastic   I thought most people 
called these the headlight doors.  These are the two plastic pieces that enclose 
the headlights that the headlight bezels screw to.  You can't see these on a 
finished car as they are hidden by the bezels.

Lamp      5961378  RH 70  (less door)  I believe that this is the metal piece 
that bolts to the core support that actually holds the headlight and the 
headlight bucket.  It has the springs and the adjusters for aiming the headlight.  
The plastic headlamp housing-support screws to this part.  

Capsule with Sealed Beam and Mounting Rings
69-72    all    5963840    RH outer
69-72    all    5963839    LH outer
69-72    all    5963838    RH inner
69-72    all    5963837    LH inner
I believe that these are the parts that Dan referred to from the Year One 
Catalog.  I believe that these are the headlight, the "bucket" and the mounting 
ring all in one assembly, with the bucket being the round metal shield that the 
headlight is inserted to that connects to the Lamp via the springs and 
adjusting screws.  
       I guess by now everyone is as thoroughly confused as I am about these 
parts, and what to call them.  At least you have the part numbers now in case 
that means anything to anyone.  Sorry if I muddied the waters,
Steve D

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 4/29/04 8:55:10=20=
PM Pacific Daylight Time, dgerow@stonehill.edu<BR>
 writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hans &amp;Steve,<BR>
<BR>
I'm not sure either way, HOWEVER Year One does list the same part number for=
<BR>
the entire headlight assemblies by side for 1969 - 1972.<BR>
<BR>
Part # 9087N fits '69 - '72 Left-Hand (driver's side) Inner<BR>
<BR>
This includes Wagner sealed-beam headlight, mounting bucket, retaining ring,=
<BR>
and screws.&nbsp; There is also a "universal" adjuster screw set that fits '=
67 -<BR>
'72 models.<BR>
<BR>
Individually, the parts are listed as fitting 1969 - 1972 as well, so I<BR>
would assume that NOS parts would fit in accordance to this as well.<BR>
<BR>
Sounds like you can use '69 - '72 parts on your '70 according to Year One.<B=
R>
<BR>
Just FYI.<BR>
<BR>
~ Dan</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Dan, Randy, Listers,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Actually Dan and Year One happen to be=20=
correct on this.&nbsp; The problem lies with the terminology I guess.&nbsp;=20=
What one person calls "buckets" is what another calls "housings" I guess.&nb=
sp; I looked in the Oldsmobile Parts Catalog last night in an attempt to cle=
ar the air on the names of the parts and to see what Oldsmobile actually cal=
led all of the parts in question.&nbsp; After searching for the parts in que=
stion, namely the headlight sections on a 70 Cutlass, which is referred to a=
s the F-85 in the Catalog because it is the base model for the Cutlass, 442,=
 W 30, W 31, SX, etc, I am left more confused than when I started.&nbsp; Her=
e is what I found:<BR>
The first entry is what Olds called the part, then the part number(s), then=20=
the common name most people call the part as far as I know<BR>
<BR>
Headlamp Door&nbsp;&nbsp;     404776, 404777&nbsp; Polished Aluminum&nbsp; T=
hese are what most people call <BR>
the headlight bezels.&nbsp; They are the shiny parts that surround the headl=
ights on the outside<BR>
<BR>
Headlamp Housing-Support&nbsp; 404748, 404749 Plastic&nbsp;&nbsp; I thought=20=
most people called these the headlight doors.&nbsp; These are the two plasti=
c pieces that enclose the headlights that the headlight bezels screw to.&nbs=
p; You can't see these on a finished car as they are hidden by the bezels.<B=
R>
<BR>
Lamp&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5961378&nbsp; RH 70&nbsp; (less door)&nbs=
p; I believe that this is the metal piece that bolts to the core support tha=
t actually holds the headlight and the headlight bucket.&nbsp; It has the sp=
rings and the adjusters for aiming the headlight.&nbsp; The plastic headlamp=
 housing-support screws to this part.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Capsule with Sealed Beam and Mounting Rings<BR>
69-72&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; all&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5963840&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; RH o=
uter<BR>
69-72&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; all&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5963839&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; LH o=
uter<BR>
69-72&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; all&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5963838&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; RH i=
nner<BR>
69-72&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; all&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5963837&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; LH i=
nner<BR>
I believe that these are the parts that Dan referred to from the Year One Ca=
talog.&nbsp; I believe that these are the headlight, the "bucket" and the mo=
unting ring all in one assembly, with the bucket being the round metal shiel=
d that the headlight is inserted to that connects to the Lamp via the spring=
s and adjusting screws.&nbsp; <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I guess by now everyone is as thoroughl=
y confused as I am about these parts, and what to call them.&nbsp; At least=20=
you have the part numbers now in case that means anything to anyone.&nbsp; S=
orry if I muddied the waters,<BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 11:32:51 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: RE: fun with A/C

At 02:21 PM 04/30/2004 +0000, Andy wrote:
>Correct me if I'm wrong, but somewhere along the line in this bucket-brigade 
>process, don't you have to repressurize somehow?
<snip>
>I know each car has a compressor, but (1) the donor car's system was dead, 
>right? and (2) you're drawing off and adding to the low-pressure side rather 
>than the high-pressure (I assume).

Ahh . . see, this is where I forgot to be clear.  The donor car is actually
alive, but has no functioning transmission.  Engine, compressor, and pretty
much everything else still work on it.

So basically I'd use the manifold and hoses and hook right from the
high-pressure side of whichever car was giving freon, to the low pressure
side of the receiving car (being REALLY careful to modulate things with the
valves on the manifold gauge set!), with both cars running.

What bit me on the rear was the fact that the Olds (donor and temporary R12
storage vehicle) was apparently leaking a little bit.

Admittedly, even in ideal circumstances, it's not a perfect setup, but
works reasonably well.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 11:36:24 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?

>Headlamp Door   404776, 404777  Polished Aluminum  These are what most
people call
>the headlight bezels.  They are the shiny parts that surround the
headlights on the outside

Yes

>Headlamp Housing-Support  404748, 404749 Plastic   I thought most people
called these the headlight doors.  These are the two plastic pieces that
enclose the >headlights that the headlight bezels screw to.  You can't see
these on a finished car as they are hidden by the bezels.

No, these are never called doors.

>Lamp      5961378  RH 70  (less door)  I believe that this is the metal
piece that bolts to the core support that actually holds the headlight and
the headlight bucket.  >It has the springs and the adjusters for aiming the
headlight.  The plastic headlamp housing-support screws to this part.

If it were that, I think it would have a name other than "lamp".

>Capsule with Sealed Beam and Mounting Rings
>69-72    all    5963840    RH outer
>69-72    all    5963839    LH outer
>69-72    all    5963838    RH inner
>69-72    all    5963837    LH inner
>I believe that these are the parts that Dan referred to from the Year One
Catalog.  I believe that these are the headlight, the "bucket" and the
mounting ring all in >one assembly

No, this is a "bulb" (sealed beam type) and a mounting ring for holding the
bulb to the bucket. The bucket is not mentioned, and I assume not included.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 12:24:25 -0500
From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: RE: Vintage Air

I agree - having been there and done that, the factory system (except for
the POA) is a good one, if kept in working order.  Large though.  Your
engine compartment is going to look VERY different without the suitcase in
there if you go aftermarket.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Frederick Nissen
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 8:53 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Vintage Air


> Anyone have any experience with Vintage Air? Need most of the parts for
> the AC on for one of my 98's. With all the stuff needed and the need to
> update the system anyway to a non cfc media I'm thinking about a Vintage
> Air system. Want to keep the stock control HVAC levers but the rest is in
> pretty sad shape.

- ---------------------

Jack,

If your car has factory air, I'd get rid of the POA valve with Old Air's POA
eliminator kit, make new hoses, and replace any other parts as needed and go
from there.  There is really nothing wrong with the factory system using the
A6 compressor.  This will likely work better and cost less than an add on
aftermarket system.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 10:25:57 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?

> Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 15:12:05 -0400
> From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
> Subject: RE: 1970 Cutlass Headlight Buckets?
> 
> >NUOLDSMAN@aol.com wrote:
> >Hans,
> >        The parts that you need for your 70 Cutlass are, as 
> far as Olds
> goes anyway, 70 only items, 
> >and 71, 72 parts will NOT interchange.  Not being familiar 
> with 69 cars I
> cannot comment on that part 
> >of it....
> 
> <SNIP>
> 
> Hans & Steve,
> 
> I'm not sure either way, HOWEVER Year One does list the same 
> part number for
> the entire headlight assemblies by side for 1969 - 1972.
> 
> Part # 9087N fits '69 - '72 Left-Hand (driver's side) Inner
> 
> This includes Wagner sealed-beam headlight, mounting bucket, 
> retaining ring,
> and screws.  There is also a "universal" adjuster screw set 
> that fits '67 -
> '72 models.
> 
> Individually, the parts are listed as fitting 1969 - 1972 as 
> well, so I
> would assume that NOS parts would fit in accordance to this as well.
> 
> Sounds like you can use '69 - '72 parts on your '70 according 
> to Year One.
> 
> Just FYI.
> 
>  ~ Dan

I'm not 100% certain about the buckets/adjusters, but I know the headlight retainers, with the three mounting ears, are the same. The stainless headlight surrounds are definitely different - those are a one-year only part. But I think the rest of the stuff is the same as the '71-'72.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 17:28:15 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: fun with A/C

>So basically I'd use the manifold and hoses and hook right from the
>high-pressure side of whichever car was giving freon, to the low pressure
>side of the receiving car (being REALLY careful to modulate things with the
>valves on the manifold gauge set!), with both cars running.

Ah.

I'm wondering what technique you use to siphon gasoline...  ("Okay, I remove 
this injector here, aim it in the general direction of the gas filler on the 
car next to me, rev up the engine on the first car..."  :-)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 13:40:52 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: TH200C torque converter

A trans shop could sell you a rebuilt, but the trans may be in trouble 
anyway.  And you have to remove it to change converters, better 
check it out.  

Sounds like repeating failures.  If you put a THM400 in there, your 
problems would be over.  If you are running a 3 speed, a switch 
pitch 400 will provide a needed improvement in performance.  I 
found this out on my 81 Cutlass 350 diesel.  

Bruce Roe

29 Apr 2004 Jim Donoghue <jim@smithy.com> writes:
> The torque converter in my olds diesel is making noise during no-load
> conditions when in gear. The noise is loudest when the car is warm 
> and you're coasting in town (25mph or so). Where does one obtain 
> a new or rebuilt torque converter from? 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 14:44:54 -0500
From: ilo@kwom.com
Subject: Headlight Housing

Hey Guys

I work at the Parts Place doing the art for their Catalog Covers
and I peeked into the warehouse and pulled each of the years
headlight housings 1968, 69, 70, 71-72 and each year they are
different and cannot be used for any other year. 
1970 housing is $99 new a pair. They look pretty good to me. 

James Aiello
70 442
74 98 
68 GTO

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 15:56:53 -0400
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: Rear Control Arm Hardware

I'm replacing the rear axle in my '72 88.  Since the 32 years have
basically frozen the nuts on the lower and upper control arm-to-rear
mounting bolts, it looks like I am going to have to sawzall them off.  What
is a good source for replacing them?

Thanks,
Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv
some other stuff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 16:47:51 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight Housing

James....for the '68 are you talking about...whats the price??? 

Thanks

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 16:53:51 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

Talked to a guy today that had worked for GM and he told me he thought they
would wait 5 yrs than start the Olds back up again but being built in Japan!

mmmmmmmm...............sounds like something GM would do!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 21:05:19 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Control Arm Hardware

>I'm replacing the rear axle in my '72 88.  Since the 32 years have
>basically frozen the nuts on the lower and upper control arm-to-rear
>mounting bolts, it looks like I am going to have to sawzall them off.

Might I suggest heating them with a simple propane torch first? I was 
astounded at how effective that was when fighting with some similar bolts on 
an old BMW.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 21:10:36 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Control Arm Hardware

Previously I wrote:

>Might I suggest heating them with a simple propane torch first?

I should clarify here that I'm talking about just _heating_ them to unscrew 
them, not using a showers-of-sparks, torch-them-into-oblivion strategy as 
seen in the local muffler shop...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 17:36:50 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@infionline.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

>
>
>JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
>
>  
>
>> In a message dated 4/29/2004 11:32:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>> HURSTOLDZ@aol.com writes:
>> snipparrino
>
> Olds content: They've brought back so many of the old Marquees, what 
> makes you think they won't try to resurrect the Cutlass in a year or two?
>
> Well, let's see.  No dealer network will be left, GrandMa not wanting 
> to admit a New Coke/Classic Coke mistake, just a crap load of 
> attorneys waiting to sue if it is brought back after killing all of 
> the previous dealers for the most part, and the fact we all know it is 
> no longer a "true" Olds anyway but only a "new" marketing ploy.  I 
> can't see them issuing all of the ad money just to push a single model 
> or two.  Right now it will be interesting to to see what GrandMa kills 
> next amongst her offspring.  Most common bets are Pontiac or Buick, 
> but who knows what cereal company exec higher management will pull 
> over to preside at the demise of her next offspring.  The military has 
> a term for this type of situation, that goes something like 
> this.................................cluster#$ck.  After seeing the 
> way some of the so-called upper so-called management decides things I 
> wonder how much Henry Ford's boys are paying the good folks at GM to 
> muck up things even more.  One would hope they are incapable of doing 
> this much collateral damage on their own without getting a paycheck 
> out of it.  Once heard that a camel was a horse designed by 
> committee,  I suspect all of the MBA boys and girls who were given the 
> keys to the kingdom years ago and totally altered the management style 
> of GM were in it only for the ego and $$$$ instead of making viable 
> products and interesting vehicles.  Let's see.....  What do I care the 
> most about?  Whether we are producing a great product or the size of 
> my bonus?  Aw heck.... I'm switching to QERQ  company in a few years 
> anyway, let's go for the money.....  So instead of each division 
> having it's own designers and champions, it became, well, let's see 
> how many different cars we can use this bumper bracket or fender or 
> motor or whatever on.  Don't care if it is a good bracket or motor or 
> whatever, it just has to last long enough for the warranty period to 
> expire and get our bonuses this quarter/year/whatever.  IF  YOU WANT 
> TO SEE VEHICLES THAT ARE BUILT WITH LOVE AND CARE, LOOK FOR JUST ABOUT 
> ANY OF THEM BUILT/DESIGNED BY CAR PEOPLE....not those caring about 
> bonuses and the like.  Cars like the Camaro, Firebird, Vette, Mustang, 
> etc, they were built by car people who had the liberty and authority 
> to design them and look over them.  Then look at the products of the 
> 80s where the only differences were the headlights, grille, bumper 
> cover and taillights and rear bumper covers and tell me that those 
> people had ANY authority to do anything without committee approval.  
> BAH HUMBUG on them all!  One of the few new cars coming out right now 
> that makes my interest jump is the 2005 Mustang.  It has soul, it has 
> style, it has individuality, it has the same magnetic look the 
> original 64-66 'Stangs did when they hit the showroom floors.  It is a 
> bit retro style, but it is one of the most exciting shapes I have seen 
> come out of Detroit in years.  What does GrandMa have as an answer?  
> Well, IMO the guys who sell 'em will say something like, "Could I 
> interest you in this nice used Firebird or Camaro?"  because GM has NO 
> answer that I can see.  Nor does Daimler/Chrysler.  Folks, unless 
> there are some serious design flaws in the new 'Stang you might as 
> well get used to seeing them, because Ford is going to sell a LOAD of 
> them......

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 20:40:40 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: killer 403 kit available ...............

Hey List,

        Is anyone in the Philadelphia area interested in a killer
403 kit ???    It is one of my abandoned projects ..........
403 short block
330 crank
7 heads
new pistons and rings
the engine is stuck - not sure of condition
the pistons are oversize - the block will have to be bored anyway.

The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 20:55:44 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

a Japanese Oldsmobile, I can see it now a d/c motor electric steering and brakes and pedals for a
turbo.
shoot me now
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP


> Talked to a guy today that had worked for GM and he told me he thought they
> would wait 5 yrs than start the Olds back up again but being built in Japan!
>
> mmmmmmmm...............sounds like something GM would do!
>
> Tami
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 21:15:57 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

I'm a few days behind on my digests...  if we are getting a group 
purchase together on the LM-1 A/F meters I'm likely in also, depending 
on the price.

Michael Ecker

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 01:08:20 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: <sniff> Oldsmobile RIP

At 08:55 PM 4/30/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>a Japanese Oldsmobile, I can see it now a d/c motor electric 
>steering and brakes and pedals for a turbo.
>shoot me now
>ron

You know what?? They just might do that, on the premise that "Olds has
always been innovative"  ;o((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 18:31:40 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: '73 Supreme for sale

Karl Sup heard about a '73 Supreme for sale in Sun City Arizona, and I went 
and looked at it today. If anyone is interested, here is the deal.

  Straight, solid, unscrewed 66,000 mile 2 door hardtop.  Avocado green, 
parchment full vinyl top and cloth interior.  Runs great, has cold a/c, AM, 
tilt, cruise, power 6 way bench, ww tires full wheel covers, new battery, 
front shocks, muffler, and water pump.  Tires 75%, paint decent--partial 
repaint, nice trunk.  Needs rubbed out, detailed, front springs (sagging 
badly), exhaust system, front bumper rechromed, front seat re-done, couple 
interior knobs, etc. Has an exhaust leak. This is a solid Kansas-Arizona 
car, no rust. Nothing has been altered.  Has always been garaged, vinyl top 
is real nice, and so is the dash pad. 350 4 barrel engine. They are ASKING 
5K for it. I told them they were high, but she said she could always come 
down. No rush to sell, so they will get an education about its value. It is 
a 1 owner car, owner died in September, '03, the ladies uncle, and she is 
71 years old!   Phone number is 623-815-7763

Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 23:25:47 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Siphoning gas the Tim Allen way... was RE: fun with A/C

At 05:28 PM 04/30/2004 +0000, Andy wrote:
>
>I'm wondering what technique you use to siphon gasoline...  ("Okay, I remove 
>this injector here, aim it in the general direction of the gas filler on the 
>car next to me, rev up the engine on the first car..."  :-)
>


Um, well, you see....  uhh.... well...

Ok, I never actually went through with it, but I did have a scheme in mind
to get gas from that same 86 Delta to another car by disconnecting the fuel
rail from the fuel line, then running a rubber hose from that line into the
filler neck of the receiving car, then running the 86's fuel pump.

Just laziness prevented it, and I also realized that the pump only runs
about 2 seconds with the ignition turned on when the car's not running.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4874
*********************************
