
oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 27 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4869



Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.
Last Oldsmobile production Date
RE: 3.73 for Highway?
Many 1966 Cutlass items listed anew
Blocking intake crossover ports.
Quadrajet base plate gasket,  Different for different years?
RE: Power Steering Pulley Removal
72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice needed!
Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll
Re: 72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice needed!
Re: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll
RE: 72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice needed!
Re: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll
RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?
SSll/SSlll revised...
RE: '90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool
Re: SSll/SSlll revised...
RE: SSll/SSlll revised...
Re: SSll/SSlll revised...
How Not to Climb a Ladder
RE: '90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool
Re: How Not to Climb a Ladder
engine paint
Re: How Not to Climb a Ladder - spiders and such ..........
Re: engine paint
'63 F-85 Cutlass shocks
Re: engine paint
Re: engine paint
Re: How Not to Climb a Ladder
Laptop in olds
RE: Laptop in olds
Oh, the Humility...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 19:52:45 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Air fuel ratio meter versus dynamometer.

>How much is a wideband sensor? $350 is way expensive for what's basically a
>voltmeter.

Nooo. The sensor is about $70. But this is not a volt meter. While it has 
direct readout, it logs your a/f data for up to 45 minutes. It also is 
capable of recording rpm, temperature and just about any other auxiliary 
signal you want to feed it.

On top of that, you can measure the a/f ratio and send a narrow band signal 
that's offset to the car's computer. This way you can trick many otherwise 
untuneable systems into giving you a richer mix. Also, you can get an 
analog gauge to install. I think that all is worth $350. The software is 
available online and there is a discussion / tech help group with a bunch 
of gurus that program the module to do some real cool stuff.  If you look 
at capability of the instrument and compare it to others out there with 
similar capabilities, this one is cheapest by far.

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 08:02:09 -0400
From: "James Savnik" <j.savnik@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Last Oldsmobile production Date

FYI
The last Oldsmobile to be built is scheduled to be on Thursday April 29,
2004 at the Lansing assembly plant. It will be a Final Edition Alero, to be
donated to the REO Museum.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 09:28:15 -0400
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: RE: 3.73 for Highway?

>John Pajak wrote:
>
>Dan, I consider 3.73 to be a little much for highway
>use, even with 28" tall back tires.
>You might want to consider 3.42s, or even 3.23

John and others,

I, too, feel this way having suffered through the 4.10s in my former El
Camino and now the 3.90s in the W-31.  I would like to retain current
"off-the-line" quickness with added highway-ability.  I have not settled on
a gear ratio yet so the input is appreciated.  Truth be told, the master
plan is to add a T-56 tranny which will make the gear decision that much
easier (and big brakes, and the new rearend, and a partridge in a pear
tree).  Until then, I'm open to suggestions and somewhat excruciation
highway trips!  :)

  ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 10:13:59 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Many 1966 Cutlass items listed anew

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25

Stop by and ck it out, please
corrections always appreciated.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
>From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring 
Travel Guide! http://special.msn.com/local/springtravel.armx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 09:20:26 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: Blocking intake crossover ports.

I asked about a bogging problem, I was having after changing my intake manifold gaskets, and want to report back my findings and ask another question.

  You guys were right on.  My new gaskets, Mr. Gasket, blocked the crossover ports on the manifold.  A few of you suggested that, I was now getting a cooler, denser air charge, so I needed to richen my A/F mixture.  I bought the 3 richest secondary rods that Edelbrock makes for the Quadrajet.  The rods I had, AX were very close to the middle of the 3.  Going leaner made the bog worse, and just as you guys said, going richer helped. After changing to a D hanger the bog was gone.  I still had to have my valve wrap tighter than I wanted, and there was a little missing going on at higher RPMS.

  Thanks for the advice. 

  Now, I can't leave well enough alone, so this weekend I pulled the manifold off again.   Now I'm trying to decide whether to open the crossover ports to let the manifold heat up like it should.  One benefit would be that I would have a functioning choke in the winter, which is not really a big benefit to me.  One supposed benefit is that I could get more performance out of the motor like this.  My SOTP dyno shows no improvement in performance.  It's possible that I have gotten some improvement and may be able to tune in a little more.  I am already at the richest rod I can buy and don't plan on making any irreversible mods to my carb.

What would you do?  This is not a race car but a weekend driver/hot rod.  My guess is the potential gains from simply blocking the crossover ports are minimal at best.  Maybe 5% range.

One other note,  the Mr. Gasket gasket set does not come with any metal to block the port.  The gasket just covers the holes.  After about 300 miles with may wide open throttle runs showed no signs burning through.

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 09:28:14 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: Quadrajet base plate gasket,  Different for different years?

I was looking at the gasket that goes between the carb and intake manifold last night and noticed that it did not seem right.  It's the same design that I have been using for years and looks the same as I have seen in many different kits.

It has a single opening in the back for both secondary valves and a hole for each of the primary valves.  The holes for the primary valves have a small rectangular cut at 45 degrees, pointing inward and to the front.  On my current carb, 7040258, this crosses a physical barrier to the area of the well plugs at the front of the carb.  Looking at my other carbs, none of them have this physical barrier.  They all have some sort of opening between the area with the well plugs and the front valves.

Is there something unique about my carb?  Does it sound like the base plate has been changed with another carb?  It looks correct, in that it appears to have the vacuum ports, and mixture screws in the correct places.

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 10:14:36 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Power Steering Pulley Removal

Lay the power steering pump on its back with the pulley shaft facing upward.  Support the pump by the pulley with blocks of wood.  Tap the shaft with a hammer.  Do not use a puller unless you need a bent pulley.

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Gene Gatti [mailto:64f-85@comcast.net]
 > Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 10:42 AM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal
 > 
 > 
 > Hi Guys,
 >     How do you remove the pulley from a power steering pump 
 > like you'd 
 > find on a '64 or '65 Cutlass? I tried a three jaw puller but it just 
 > bends the pulley. What's the secret?
 > Thanks,
 > Gene
 > 
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 11:29:05 -0400
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: 72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice needed!

Hello listers,

I have finally started work on my 72 455 engine. Pulled intake manifold, heads, 
and exhaust manifolds.  Will send all to machine shop for check out, repair and 
media blasting. First question: From whom should I purchase the correct 
72 "blue" engine paint?  Year One, Eastwood, Fusick, others? And what should I 
use on the exhaust manifolds?

While disassembling, I broke some of the fasteners, like head pipe to exhaust 
manifolds bolts, exhaust manifold to head bolts, etc. Where is a good source 
for those bolts and the horseshoe shaped exhaust retainers?  Should I use the 
stainless steel retainers? 

Any other engine detailing advice will be appreciated.
Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 11:32:44 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll

There has been a lot of threads about Olds SSll and SSlll wheels lately. I
just thought I'd add this link.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&R
S=1&itemID=9171&keyword=62152
Pat Swanton.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 11:38:16 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice needed!

- -------------------------------1082993896
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Eastwood makes an excellent exhaust manifold coating. Just brush it on after 
your manifolds are blasted. But don't do it until you are ready to run the 
engine, since the coating must be cured within a short time of application by 
using engine heat. I did a set of manifolds the correct way once and they stayed 
looking good for a long time. I did another set and didn't cure them in the 
alloted time frame and the coating didn't last very long.

Jon Wessel

- -------------------------------1082993896
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Eastwood makes an excellent exhaust manifold coating. Just brush it on=20=
after your manifolds are blasted. But don't do it until you are ready to run=
 the engine, since the coating must be cured within a short time of applicat=
ion by using engine heat. I did a set of manifolds the correct way once and=20=
they stayed looking good for a long time. I did another set and didn't cure=20=
them in the alloted time frame and the coating didn't last very long.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Jon Wessel</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1082993896--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 11:42:52 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll

I guess you will have to copy and paste the link in your browser.
Sorry......
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 11:32 AM
Subject: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll


> There has been a lot of threads about Olds SSll and SSlll wheels lately. I
> just thought I'd add this link.
>
>
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&R
> S=1&itemID=9171&keyword=62152
> Pat Swanton.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 10:58:39 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: 72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice needed!

Get your engine paint from Napa, olds blue.
I second the recommendation for eastwoods, manifold paint.  Blast the manifolds and wipe them down.  Apply the paint with the sponge brush provide.  Don't waste your time with anything else.

Head pipe to manifold studs can be found at any decent parts store.  

Are you talking about the exhaust bolt retainers, that the manifold bolts go through and then you bend the tabs to hold the bolts in place?  If so, you may be able to get them at a dealership.  If not, year one and a few list members carry that part.

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Michael McDonald [mailto:McDonald_M@72ho.com]
 > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 10:29 AM
 > To: 442 List; Hurst Olds List; OLDS List
 > Subject: 72 455 Engine, exhaust manifold paint and fasteners advice
 > needed!
 > 
 > 
 > Hello listers,
 > 
 > I have finally started work on my 72 455 engine. Pulled 
 > intake manifold, heads, 
 > and exhaust manifolds.  Will send all to machine shop for 
 > check out, repair and 
 > media blasting. First question: From whom should I purchase 
 > the correct 
 > 72 "blue" engine paint?  Year One, Eastwood, Fusick, others? 
 > And what should I 
 > use on the exhaust manifolds?
 > 
 > While disassembling, I broke some of the fasteners, like 
 > head pipe to exhaust 
 > manifolds bolts, exhaust manifold to head bolts, etc. Where 
 > is a good source 
 > for those bolts and the horseshoe shaped exhaust retainers?  
 > Should I use the 
 > stainless steel retainers? 
 > 
 > Any other engine detailing advice will be appreciated.
 > Mike McDonald
 > McDonald_M@72ho.com
 > 
 > 1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
 >     "as seen on Speed TV"
 >    The American Musclecar    
 >             or
 >         www.72ho.com
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 11:52:34 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&R
S=1&itemID=9171&keyword=62152



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll


> I guess you will have to copy and paste the link in your browser.
> Sorry......
> Pat Swanton.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 11:32 AM
> Subject: Oldsmobile SSll and SSlll
>
>
> > There has been a lot of threads about Olds SSll and SSlll wheels lately.
I
> > just thought I'd add this link.
> >
> >
>
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&R
> > S=1&itemID=9171&keyword=62152
> > Pat Swanton.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 09:17:38 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 12:57:55 -0700 (PDT)
> From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
> Subject: RE: Rear disc brakes/C clip axles?

snip

> It also makes the '70 axles and housing incompatible with the '67-'69 
> version - ask me how I know this and I'll be compelled to relate the 
> story of how I ended up with one of each of the O-Type 12 bolts Olds made.
> - ------------------------------------------
> really?  So you have a 68 axle with the factory 31splines? 

Yup, a TL code 3.42 open (#359 carrier). Ah, to locate an affordable #672 
limited slip carrier.
 
> The only reason I mention this is because the guy I just 
> picked up my 68 TW code factory 31spline 4.33 rear from knows 
> quite a bit about these rears too.  He showed me a factory 
> 31spline axle and a 70 28 spline axle.  And there is a 
> noticeable size difference.  And before I could even finish 
> spitting out the metallurgy thing he said yes I know, but 
> there's still the size issue of the 68 factory 31spline axle 
> vs the smaller 70 28spline axle.

Yes, there is a bit of a size difference at the splined end - 1.325" on 
the 31 spline shaft vs. 1.202" on the 28 spline shaft. But the '67-'69 
shafts are all the same diameter at the bearing end as they use the same 
RW507C axle bearing. I don't remember if the '70 shaft is a different 
diameter at the bearing end. I guess I could look up the specs for the 
Timken Set 9 axle bearing to see.

Anyway, when I was asking around about the 31 spline rears I was told by 
several Olds-timers about the strength and metallurgy differences, and I 
accepted their word on this. I really don't know for sure if they are 
correct or not.
  
> Chris Smetana - lurking in digest mode
> grp442@yahoo.com

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 12:05:56 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: SSll/SSlll revised...

Sorry about the last link from Eastwwod. Copy and paste is a pain....

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedI
tems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25

Pat Swanton.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 16:32:19 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: '90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool

>I got a new toy to go back and forth to work in, and it's throwing a code 
>26
>on the computer, which my Haynes book says it's a "Quad Driver Circuit" and 
>to
>"take to dealer for diagnosis" What does this code mean?? Fyi, it also 
>throws
>a code 41, which is the cam position sensor. Are the 2 tied in together??

Googling on "Quad Driver Circuit" was instructive...

http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/quaddriver.shtml

However, I think I'd check out the cam position sensor before replacing the 
computer.

>HELP PLEASE!! Also, does anyone have the hubcap removal tool that I can 
>buy??
>It doesen't have one.

As Chris said, you can hammer a cheap socket over the puzzle nut (16-point 
sockets are preferred for this, especially if you want to save the puzzle 
nut for re-use), or you can get special little clamp tools that do basically 
the same thing to grip the nut tight enough to crack it loose. There may 
also be a way of identifying which ones are on your car (I think there were 
only about 14 different patterns, maximum) and ordering a replacement key 
socket. Ask around at a GM dealer and they should know what your options 
are.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 12:38:53 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: SSll/SSlll revised...

Hey Chris......I'm nat an eb^y thief....Honest mistake is all....
Pat Swanton.....
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 12:05 PM
Subject: SSll/SSlll revised...


> Sorry about the last link from Eastwwod. Copy and paste is a pain....
>
>
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedI
> tems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25
>
> Pat Swanton.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 17:50:08 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: SSll/SSlll revised...

>Sorry about the last link from Eastwwod. Copy and paste is a pain....
>
>http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedI
>tems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25

Here is a shorter, less-easily-damaged version of that same URL, for folks 
who are still unable to see what you are pointing at:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?K21715128

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 13:56:23 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: SSll/SSlll revised...

Thanks Andy,
I gave up on trying after the third time. As the saying goes three strikes
and your out.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: SSll/SSlll revised...


> >Sorry about the last link from Eastwwod. Copy and paste is a pain....
> >
>
>http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListed
I
> >tems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25
>
> Here is a shorter, less-easily-damaged version of that same URL, for folks
> who are still unable to see what you are pointing at:
>
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?K21715128
>
> -- Andy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
> Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 18:34:08 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: How Not to Climb a Ladder

So I'm working in the garage over the weekend to try and get two of my 
eight-thousand current simultaneous projects done, this to run wiring to 
some wall-sconce boxes down the side wall of the garage, for hanging some 
old illuminated subway signs, etc. Am spending a lot of time racing up and 
down a little three-step ladder to snake wiring through the studs near 
ceiling level, pull it through, get down, move along 10 feet, climb ladder, 
pull it further, etc. I am working my way down the side wall of the garage 
from the back corner to the front corner. I will soon learn that it would 
have been better to start at the front instead.

The garage wall is unfinished on the inside at the moment, with exposed 
studs and nails and such that spiders love to build webs in. Oh, shoot, 
there's another big one up near the ceiling, right where I need to pull the 
wires. Well, no problem, I'll just take this old shop rag, sprint up the 
stepladder and ***KUNNNGGG***...

What I hadn't noticed as I worked my way down the side of the garage was 
that I was getting closer and closer to the suspended ends of the overhead 
door tracks, which end in mid-air about three feet down from the ceiling, 
suspended by large and very immovable steel brackets, one of which yours 
truly attempted to move anyway, using the side of his head while racing up 
the stepladder.

Not sure why I didn't fall off the ladder at that point, but did have a real 
Warner Brothers moment for a while there, like when Tweety hits Sylvester 
the Cat with a frying pan. Staggered around the garage for a while as little 
birdies twittered in my head, and finally went indoors for a closer look.

Final inspection showed no head damage other than a hefty cut on the side, 
no concussion, and I think it even got me expedited service at the Chinese 
takeout that evening. ("Let's serve the man with the dried blood on his head 
first, and maybe he'll leave...") The moral is, Always Look Up when Climbing 
a Ladder... or perhaps it's just Don't Let Andy Rewire Your Garage...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page – FREE 
download! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 18:45:06 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: RE: '90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool

being a 1990 front wheel drive car it has those  crappy plastic hub cap locks. if you have not attempted to remove them cruise down to local dealer and he can get you a hub cap key. by all means do not attemp removal without it. will cause hrs of agrivation.
as for youre code 41 meaning cylselect error missing 1x signal meaning ecm does not recieve cam sensor signal for at least 2 seconds while engine running. 
check harness and connections, if its a 3.3l it uses a magnet mounted on cam gear if sensor is on front cover. the magnet some times gets removed by deterorating t chain debreis. just like 3.8l. not sure what engine you have
ron    
> >I got a new toy to go back and forth to work in, and it's throwing a code 
> >26
> >on the computer, which my Haynes book says it's a "Quad Driver Circuit" and 
> >to
> >"take to dealer for diagnosis" What does this code mean?? Fyi, it also 
> >throws
> >a code 41, which is the cam position sensor. Are the 2 tied in together??
> 
> Googling on "Quad Driver Circuit" was instructive...
> 
> http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/quaddriver.shtml
> 
> However, I think I'd check out the cam position sensor before replacing the 
> computer.
> 
> >HELP PLEASE!! Also, does anyone have the hubcap removal tool that I can 
> >buy??
> >It doesen't have one.
> 
> As Chris said, you can hammer a cheap socket over the puzzle nut (16-point 
> sockets are preferred for this, especially if you want to save the puzzle 
> nut for re-use), or you can get special little clamp tools that do basically 
> the same thing to grip the nut tight enough to crack it loose. There may 

> also be a way of identifying which ones are on your car (I think there were 
> only about 14 different patterns, maximum) and ordering a replacement key 
> socket. Ask around at a GM dealer and they should know what your options 
> are.
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
> http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 15:55:25 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: How Not to Climb a Ladder

Andy,
It's a good thing, at the least, that you get to share your story.
Watch out for those spiders.
Pat Swanton.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 2:34 PM
Subject: How Not to Climb a Ladder


> So I'm working in the garage over the weekend to try and get two of my
> eight-thousand current simultaneous projects done, this to run wiring to
> some wall-sconce boxes down the side wall of the garage, for hanging some
> old illuminated subway signs, etc. Am spending a lot of time racing up and
> down a little three-step ladder to snake wiring through the studs near
> ceiling level, pull it through, get down, move along 10 feet, climb
ladder,
> pull it further, etc. I am working my way down the side wall of the garage
> from the back corner to the front corner. I will soon learn that it would
> have been better to start at the front instead.
>
> The garage wall is unfinished on the inside at the moment, with exposed
> studs and nails and such that spiders love to build webs in. Oh, shoot,
> there's another big one up near the ceiling, right where I need to pull
the
> wires. Well, no problem, I'll just take this old shop rag, sprint up the
> stepladder and ***KUNNNGGG***...
>
> What I hadn't noticed as I worked my way down the side of the garage was
> that I was getting closer and closer to the suspended ends of the overhead
> door tracks, which end in mid-air about three feet down from the ceiling,
> suspended by large and very immovable steel brackets, one of which yours
> truly attempted to move anyway, using the side of his head while racing up
> the stepladder.
>
> Not sure why I didn't fall off the ladder at that point, but did have a
real
> Warner Brothers moment for a while there, like when Tweety hits Sylvester
> the Cat with a frying pan. Staggered around the garage for a while as
little
> birdies twittered in my head, and finally went indoors for a closer look.
>
> Final inspection showed no head damage other than a hefty cut on the side,
> no concussion, and I think it even got me expedited service at the Chinese
> takeout that evening. ("Let's serve the man with the dried blood on his
head
> first, and maybe he'll leave...") The moral is, Always Look Up when
Climbing
> a Ladder... or perhaps it's just Don't Let Andy Rewire Your Garage...
>
> -- Andy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page – FREE
> download! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 16:07:27 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: engine paint

snip>>Get your engine paint from Napa, olds blue

NAPA number is 638 and it is correct. Their parts book may show this as 
a gray primer. The book is wrong the paint is olds engine blue
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 16:27:15 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: How Not to Climb a Ladder - spiders and such ..........

Hey List,

        One of the funniest posts was about a guy working on his car in the
early summer
after not working on it all year. I went like this .......... he pulled off
the tarp and ...........

SWARM !!!!!   run run run ...... swat swat swat ...............  run run run
.........swat swat swat ......

When I first read it , I was LMAO ......................

The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 16:53:30 -0400
From: "w-machines" <w-machines@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: engine paint

their parts book shows it to be Ford gray primer.  When I went to the
warehouse, I asked for the 638.  He goes Ford primer gray, I said sure.
Just bring a case of 638.  When he brought it up front, he says, (uhh its
Olds Blue).  I go yep, thats what I want.  Did not want to argue with you.
I just wanted the part number of 638.  So he scratched his head and took my
cash.
regards
WMACHINES
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: "olds list" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:07 PM
Subject: engine paint


> snip>>Get your engine paint from Napa, olds blue
>
> NAPA number is 638 and it is correct. Their parts book may show this as
> a gray primer. The book is wrong the paint is olds engine blue
> LOL
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 22:52:53 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: '63 F-85 Cutlass shocks

I've had a request for assistance with front and rear shocks for a '63 F-85 Cutlass coupe.  Fusick told the guy they can't help him.  I have two parts books, a '63 and an '83.  The '63 edition has part #s of 3171473 and 3171474.  No one has any stock on these numbers and I can't seem to get a supersession on them.  The '83 book only goes back to '64.  Anybody (like Everett maybe?) have a catalog in them middle that might have a listing using different numbers?  We've also tried the local NAPA, Car Quest, etc.  No listings prior to '64.  Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 15:55:31 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: engine paint

Oddly enough, I just got back from Napa looking for 638. I bought 1 can 3 
weeks ago, they said other stores had it and they'd transfer it in. When I 
went there 10 days ago, they said the stores did not have it in inventory, 
but the DC in LA had them. So they ordered it.

Today, they said that all Napa paint is switching to Duplicolor only, and 
that Olds Blue (638) was not going to be made. So apparently, it's 
disappearing from shelves without restock.

BUY NOW.

Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ


> > snip>>Get your engine paint from Napa, olds blue
> >
> > NAPA number is 638 and it is correct. Their parts book may show this as
> > a gray primer. The book is wrong the paint is olds engine blue
> > LOL
> > John Kelsey
> > Dayton Ohio

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:09:45 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: engine paint

- -------------------------------1083020984
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/26/2004 7:06:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
droldslives@hotmail.com writes:
. So apparently, it's 
disappearing from shelves without restock.
BUY FAST,  BUY FURIOUSLY!!!!


Vinny

PS    ANYONE HAVE 425/455 RED  PAINT THAT IS ACTUALLY CORRECT IN COLOR??

- -------------------------------1083020984
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 4/26/2004 7:06:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, droldsli=
ves@hotmail.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>. So apparently, it's <BR>disappearing from sh=
elves without restock.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>BUY FAST,&nbsp; BUY FURIOUSLY!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>PS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ANYONE HAVE 425/455 RED&nbsp; PAINT THAT IS ACTUAL=
LY CORRECT IN COLOR??</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1083020984--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 19:40:08 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: How Not to Climb a Ladder

OUCH!!! Glad to hear you are OK......

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 16:59:55 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: Laptop in olds

Has anyone here fabricated any kind of tray or "laptop desk" for their olds?
Maybe some sort of slide out under dashor something?
I am looking for ideas.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 01:47:07 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Laptop in olds

>Has anyone here fabricated any kind of tray or "laptop desk" for their 
>olds?
>Maybe some sort of slide out under dashor something?
>I am looking for ideas.

I think what you're looking for actually exists already as a commercial 
product: a clip-on thing that attaches to your steering wheel to support a 
laptop.

Presumably you are _not_ driving at the time...  :-)

I can't recall the details now, but I saw it featured, if that is the right 
word, as one of columnist Dave Barry's Worst Christmas Gift Ideas of 2003, 
if I remember right. If no one's found the article I'm thinking of by 
tomorrow, I'll see if I can do some more Googling for it...

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 20:14:10 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: Oh, the Humility...

Why, oh why, must people put Chevy engines in perfectly good 1984 Cutlasses?
And they wonder why drugs and alcohol impair reason? :-) Check it out...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2475938394&category=6405

If the link doesn't work, it's EBay Item 2475938394

Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4869
*********************************
