
oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 17 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4892



RE: cell phone causes fire at gas pump
Re: R12 to R134 startup
RE: One of those days
what is "the right price"?
Re: what is "the right price"?
RE: what is "the right price"?
Re: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD
RE: what is "the right price"?
RE: what is "the right price"?
New pics
great Olds weekend
W-31 engine rebuild status
Re: what is "the right price"?
Re: what is "the right price"?
RE: what is "the right price"?
RE: what is "the right price"?
Re: what is "the right price"?
Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???
any Chicago area members looking for 8.5" 3.42 gears
Re: what is "the right price"?
OT  Custom License Plates
RE: what is "the right price"?
Re: OT  Custom License Plates

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 14:33:26 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: cell phone causes fire at gas pump

>Something to keep in mind. The life you save may be your own.
>
>>http://www.nydailynews.com/front/story/193588p-167295c.html

Much as I agree with the sentiment -- if you're pumping gas, you really 
shouldn't be time-sharing the process with _anything_ else, not just 
blathering on the phone -- it's important to keep this incident in context 
and in perspective, as the article notes:

>"If confirmed, this would be the first known case of a wireless
>phone igniting gas fumes," said Travis Larson, spokesman for the
>Cellular Telecommunication and Internet Association in Washington.
>
>"We have investigated Internet rumors for years, none of which
>have panned out. The likelihood of a phone igniting gas fumes is
>very remote," he added.

Remember that what made this incident newsworthy was not that it happened 
again, but that it happened at all.

The important point is not the use of a cellphone; it's avoiding any 
condition that generates a static spark in the presence of fuel vapors. For 
example, there are routine warnings about never filling a plastic portable 
gas tank in a vehicle; always put it on the ground. Certain brands of 
steel-belted radials have been identified as causing more than the usual 
amount of static charge that'll zap you when you first make contact with the 
car. (Ask a toll collector about that sometime.) The hazard is any source of 
spark ignition, so you want to avoid all methods of generating it, not just 
the newest one.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN 
Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 10:09:07 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: R12 to R134 startup

On May 14, 2004, at 6:26 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 14:33:31 -0500
> From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
> Subject: R12 to R134 startup
>
> Hello all-
>
> After trying thrice to get through with my School e-mail, not being 
> able to
> make it simple text, I've opted to get a new e-mail address. Perhaps I 
> can
> keep the spam down here.
>
> Minnesota still allows the sale of refrigerant, and our local K-mart is
> stocking it.  I might be moving soon to Wisconsin, where it isn't sold 
> off
> the shelf and I wondered if it would be wise to pick some R-134 up 
> before I
> left.
>
> I can get 12oz cans of R-134a for $5.79
> R-134 ester oil, 2oz for $3.99
> Stop leak detector $4.99
> R-134 "high mileage" w/leak sealer $7.49
>
> I've got a '70 Cutlass Supreme and someday I'll be retrofitting the 
> original
> system that's been open for years to R-134.  How much of the 
> refrigerant and
> oil should I buy?  Is this a decent price for this refrigerant?  
> Perhaps it
> might be better to stick with R-12?  Any thoughts?

If you go with R-12 you will need to replace the POA valve (the big 
tapered tube-thingy next to the AC evaporator box under the hood) with 
a dummy that has a pressure switch. The POA valve regulates the 
refrigerant pressure in the system. Working pressures for R-12 are 
different from 134a, so it has to be changed over to a 
compressor-cycling setup that uses an adjustable pressure switch in the 
place of the POA valve. About $100. New hoses would be a good idea if 
going to 134a, and new o-rings on all the hose connections. Be sure 
that the new o-rings are compatible with 134a (any bought new at a pars 
store should be.) You'll also need to replace the dryer with one that 
is 134a compatible - you'll need a new one anyway since the system has 
been open. The one I got works with either refrigerant. You'll probably 
want to have the system flushed to get out most of the old mineral oil, 
not to mention junk that snuck in while the system was open. Finally, 
I've read that the seals used in the A6 compressor may not play well 
with 134a, just like the older hose o-rings. That was my only real 
concern with 134a - everything else is relatively cheap and accessible 
- - but other members of the list seem to have had good results.
I went with a hydrocarbon refrigerant called EnviroSafe ES-12a. It 
worked with the original POA valve. I did put in new hoses, dryer, 
o-rings, and expansion valve (knew that the expasion valve was bad from 
attempting to charge with R-12 some years ago. It froze up.), but still 
running the original compressor, POA valve, condenser, and evaporator. 
Cooled down to 50 degrees, but I was short a little on the charge. I'll 
be buying more soon to recharge (I had to let it out to put a 90-degree 
fitting on the low side [converted to 134a fittings] - it was painful 
to get the charge hose on with the straight fitting. Heater hoses are 
in the way). Don't worry, it's NOT Freon, though it's sill technically 
illegal to vent - oops!
As far as how much, that's really based on pressure, but you can look 
in your Service manual and see how much R-12 you're supposed to put in 
by weight. There are charts around the web to ell you what the 
equivalent 134a (or other refrigerant) should be.

FWIW, every auto parts store, Walmart, and such in Texas has oodles of 
134a... no license (which I do have) required. $3-5/can, IIRC.
>
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:16:17 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: One of those days

>Uhhh... ifn you drive up to 2200 miles just on a weekend, just how
>might you drive during the other five days?

Standing up, unless the driver's seat in his car is a lot better than 
mine...  :-)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 11:27:36 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: what is "the right price"?

I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for my 68 98 convertible. It
did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less than that. I'm wondering if
I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I really have to sell it.

The weird thing is that people have written to me about both of my cars
saying that I am not asking enough for them and that I could get more. The
bottom line is that I keep dropping the prices and neither of them has sold.
So, I tend to think that asking more is not a good idea. No matter how you
slice it, I'm going to take a big loss on both of these cars, but they have
to go.

Thanks for any opinions/advice.

John "in hell" Nasta

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 11:36:59 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

At 11:27 AM 5/17/2004, you wrote:
>I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for my 68 98 convertible. It
>did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less than that. I'm wondering if
>I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I really have to sell it.
>
>The weird thing is that people have written to me about both of my cars
>saying that I am not asking enough for them and that I could get more. The
>bottom line is that I keep dropping the prices and neither of them has sold.
>So, I tend to think that asking more is not a good idea. No matter how you
>slice it, I'm going to take a big loss on both of these cars, but they have
>to go.

I think that your car would be worth $4500, for the right person.

The trouble, of course, is finding the right person!

Collector cars are only worth money to certain people; the vast majority of 
people, however, wouldn't take your car if you GAVE it to them.

A big hindrance is the fact that most people interested in collectible cars 
ALREADY HAVE one or more, and are usually unable to take on another, even 
if they could afford it.

Of course, once you find the right person, it will sell in a heartbeat; 
finding the right person, however, is really the trick. Where have you been 
advertising?


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 10:56:47 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

Have you tried advertising in JWO?  It is free to OCA members.  If you are not a member, it might be worth it to sign up for year.

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: John Nasta [mailto:email@johnnasta.com]
 > Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 10:28 AM
 > To: Olds Mailing List
 > Subject: what is "the right price"?
 > 
 > 
 > I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for my 68 98 
 > convertible. It
 > did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less than that. 
 > I'm wondering if
 > I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I really have 
 > to sell it.
 > 
 > The weird thing is that people have written to me about both 
 > of my cars
 > saying that I am not asking enough for them and that I could 
 > get more. The
 > bottom line is that I keep dropping the prices and neither 
 > of them has sold.
 > So, I tend to think that asking more is not a good idea. No 
 > matter how you
 > slice it, I'm going to take a big loss on both of these 
 > cars, but they have
 > to go.
 > 
 > Thanks for any opinions/advice.
 > 
 > John "in hell" Nasta
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:04:52 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD

I run a long time an Accel points dist with MSD. Points don't use, but the
Dwell goes bad soon! If you use some good, high rpm spring to rev up to ,
say, 5500rpm, it will use out the rubbing part quite quickly. If you use
generic points it will not work from 4500 up...
Now I run the Accel with no MSD and there is no much difference in the seat
of pants, have not taken her to any racing place. The difference is she will
not stsrt with low battery and after seating alone for a week will be more
difficult to start. Driven every day behaves just the same as with MSD and
Mallory magnetic distributor.
Now, the net engine WILL have the MSD for the security - I want no misfires
...
Rgds
Matt
74CS, 355ci, 10:1CR, Holley 600cfm vacuum carb...my best time was
15.3s@95mph but with a lot of tire slip, 4300lbs with me inside

> > How much more will i get outa her with a alt. conversion from gen. and
MSD usin the points as a trigger?
>
> Hard to say, I've never tested before and after. Generally though, If your
points system is working well, I don't think
> you would gain too much. I believe your points last alot longer though
because the current demand is reduced. This is
> merely speculative though as any points vehicle I've had has only had
points long enough to get me to where I can throw

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:09:03 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

>Collector cars are only worth money to certain people; the vast majority of
>people, however, wouldn't take your car if you GAVE it to them.

That's comforting.


>Where have you been advertising?

Ebay, cctol, and Hemmings. A friend of mine just suggested carbuyers.com. He
seems to think that it's "where everybody looks". I find that difficult to
believe given that I've never even heard of it until just now.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:14:02 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

At 12:09 PM 5/17/2004, you wrote:
> >Collector cars are only worth money to certain people; the vast majority of
> >people, however, wouldn't take your car if you GAVE it to them.
>
>That's comforting.

Sorry. :(

But I experienced exactly what you're experiencing. I tried to sell my '69 
Toro for TWO YEARS before it finally left my possession. I had people very 
interested in it for my original $3500 asking price, but on the other side 
of the country, which was a deal-breaker.

Then I had local tire-kickers who wanted to offer me $1000.

I finally sold it for $1700 back to the guy who I had originally bought it 
from. Basically, I got to keep the car for about seven years and I did a 
boatload of mechanical work to it, and then gave it back to him for about 
the cost of the work I did to it.

> >Where have you been advertising?
>
>Ebay, cctol, and Hemmings. A friend of mine just suggested carbuyers.com. He
>seems to think that it's "where everybody looks". I find that difficult to
>believe given that I've never even heard of it until just now.

I've never heard of them either. But it couldn't hurt.

You might try lowering the price as you mentioned, but it might not make 
much of a difference.

If it looks nice, you might try casting your line near the companies that 
supply period vehicles for movies in Hollywood. They can make back that 
kind of investment in just a few shoots.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:25:10 EDT
From: Plaindrew@aol.com
Subject: New pics

- -------------------------------1084811110
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I took advantage of the weather on Saturday and my access to a digital camera 
to take some new pictures of my car.  It's my 71 Cutlass convertible.  
There's nothing new about the car, I just wanted some new pictures and tried to take 
an artistic approach to photographing the car.  I have no training or skills 
in this regard.  I was trying to capture the angles and features that set this 
model apart from other cars, rather than just take wide-angle shots.  I 
wanted to capture the curves.

The pics are here:

http://members.aol.com/drewinva/olds/oldspics.htm

Hope you enjoy!
- -- 
Drew Senko
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible

- -------------------------------1084811110
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I took advantage of the weather on Saturday and my access to a digital=20=
camera to take some new pictures of my car.&nbsp; It's&nbsp;my 71 Cutlass co=
nvertible.&nbsp; There's nothing new about the car, I just wanted some new p=
ictures and tried to take an artistic approach to photographing the car.&nbs=
p; I have no training or skills in this regard.&nbsp; I was trying to captur=
e the angles and features that set this model apart from other cars, rather=20=
than just take wide-angle shots.&nbsp; I wanted to capture the curves.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The pics are here:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"http://members.aol.com/drewinva/olds/oldspics.htm">http://me=
mbers.aol.com/drewinva/olds/oldspics.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Hope you enjoy!</DIV>
<DIV>-- </DIV>
<DIV>Drew Senko</DIV>
<DIV>1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1084811110--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:34:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: great Olds weekend

- --0-1371194140-1084811683=:60297
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Greetings all,
Well, this weekend I made great progress on the F-85.  I replaced the damaged front bumper with a straight one (actualler a straighter one as there is still a couple dings in it).  This one also has only factory holes in it as opposed to the rust hole the old one has.  Unfortunately the chrome on the old one is light years better, but this is only temporary.  I was expecting to spend easily 5-6 hours trying to align this bumper, but got it close enough after only a couple hours, so I'm leaving well enough alone.  Not to mention I can't move the bumper any more towards to the passenger side.  So there is a larger cap between the bumper and fender on the driver side vs the passenger side.  Of course who knows if the car is really straight anyway, so again thats why I'm leaving well enough alone.  Another major item I fixed swapping bumpers was the hood tongue no longer hits the bumper.  I always thought the other bumper wasn't aligned right, so I fixed that with this one.
I was also able to FINALLY finish up the SSII.  I painted the last two with their final coat and then after cleaning the bezels, I made up 4 sets and popped those on the 4 better wheels.  I decided not to use bezels on the spare.  I'm also opting not to run trim rings, mainly because I don't have a nice set.  Besides, I like the look of no trim rings.  Sometime in the next couple days, I'll give the rims and tires to my brother to take to work where he'll mount and balance them.  I'll install them sometime later this week, then happily drive the car to work friday (maybe thursday too).
I've got some pics in my camera that I need to download, then I'll post them to my website and post the url here for all to see.  I think the rims came out very well, although the Dupli-Color DA1612 color that was recommended appears a little too gray to me.  It seems it's missing the metallic, although I don't have any original 68-70 SSII to compare colors.  But other than that, I think they came out fine.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31  the engine rebuild is getting closer to completion
1970 F-85  soon to be a daily driver!!!!!
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
plus a whole mess of parts for sale

		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-1371194140-1084811683=:60297
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Greetings all,</DIV>
<DIV>Well, this weekend I made great progress on the F-85.&nbsp; I replaced the damaged front bumper with a straight one (actualler a straighter one as there is still a couple dings in it).&nbsp; This one also has only factory holes in it as opposed to the rust hole the&nbsp;old one has.&nbsp; Unfortunately the chrome on the old one is light years better, but this is only temporary.&nbsp; I was expecting to spend easily 5-6 hours trying to align this bumper, but got it close enough after only a couple hours, so I'm leaving well enough alone.&nbsp; Not to mention I can't move the bumper any more towards to the passenger side.&nbsp; So there is a larger cap between the bumper and fender on the driver side vs the passenger side.&nbsp; Of course who knows if the car is really straight anyway, so again thats why I'm leaving well enough alone.&nbsp; Another major item I fixed swapping bumpers was the hood tongue no longer hits the bumper.&nbsp; I always thought the other bumper wasn't
 aligned right, so I fixed that with this one.</DIV>
<DIV>I was also able to FINALLY finish up the SSII.&nbsp; I painted the last two with their final coat and then after cleaning the bezels, I made up 4 sets and popped those on the 4 better wheels.&nbsp; I decided not to use bezels on the spare.&nbsp; I'm also opting not to run trim rings, mainly because I don't have a nice set.&nbsp; Besides, I like the look of no trim rings.&nbsp; Sometime in the next couple days, I'll give the rims and tires to my brother to take to work where he'll mount and balance them.&nbsp; I'll install them sometime later this week, then happily drive the car to work friday (maybe thursday too).</DIV>
<DIV>I've got some pics in my camera that I need to download, then I'll post them to my website and post the url here for all to see.&nbsp; I think the rims came out very well, although the Dupli-Color DA1612 color that was recommended appears a little too gray to me.&nbsp; It seems it's missing the metallic, although I don't have any original 68-70 SSII to compare colors.&nbsp; But other than that, I think they came out fine.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31&nbsp; the engine rebuild is getting closer to completion</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85&nbsp; soon to be a daily driver!!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>plus a whole mess of parts for sale</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br><a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=24311/*http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/">SBC Yahoo!</a> - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-1371194140-1084811683=:60297--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: W-31 engine rebuild status

- --0-2127815209-1084812125=:54739
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello again,
Well, Mr. Jim Lapikas has provided me with the latest pictures and updates of my beloved W-31 rebuild.  Below are a couple links to the latest pics.  As a side note, Jim found the Milodon timing chain set, a brand he has been using for 15+ years without incident, to not be up to par.  So I now have a Rollmaster t-chain set courtesy of fellow listmember James Aiello (I have a feeling I'm never going to hear the end of this one from James though  :-))))  whose 455 Jim will be moving to sometime after he finishes my engine.
 
http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143793400AzxsDu
 
http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143795324XbKOIa
 
As for an estimated time to fire up this bad boy, I would guess soon.  Either this weekend or next weekend.  Stay tuned for further updates.  IT'S GETTING CLOSER!!!!!  YES!!!!!!!
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31 engine rebuild is moving along
1970 F-85 soon to be a daily driver!!!!!
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
plus a whole mess of parts for sale
 

		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-2127815209-1084812125=:54739
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Hello again,</DIV>
<DIV>Well, Mr. Jim Lapikas has provided me with the latest pictures and updates of my beloved W-31 rebuild.&nbsp; Below are a couple links to the latest pics.&nbsp; As a side note, Jim found the Milodon timing chain set, a brand he has been using for 15+ years without incident, to not be up to par.&nbsp; So I now have a Rollmaster t-chain set courtesy of fellow listmember James Aiello (I have a feeling I'm never going to hear the end of this one from James though&nbsp; :-))))&nbsp; whose 455 Jim will be moving to sometime after he finishes my engine.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143793400AzxsDu">http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143793400AzxsDu</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143795324XbKOIa">http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143795324XbKOIa</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As for an estimated time to fire up this bad boy, I would guess soon.&nbsp; Either this weekend or next weekend.&nbsp; Stay tuned for further updates.&nbsp; IT'S GETTING CLOSER!!!!!&nbsp; YES!!!!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31 engine rebuild is moving along</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 soon to be a daily driver!!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>plus a whole mess of parts for sale</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br><a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=24311/*http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/">SBC Yahoo!</a> - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-2127815209-1084812125=:54739--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:49:24 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

> I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for my 68 98 convertible.
It
> did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less than that. I'm wondering
if
> I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I really have to sell it.

- ---------------------------

John,

I wish I needed or had a place to put another 98 Conv instead of a Custom
Cruiser.  I don't think your prices are out of line ($3,500.00 is a real
bargain IMO).  You are selling an antique / special interest car, not a two
year old Camry.  What you need is a serious buyer who has the $$$, space and
time.  I hate to tell you to be patient, but that is the secret to selling a
car like this without taking a bath on the deal.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:53:14 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

> Ebay, cctol, and Hemmings. A friend of mine just suggested carbuyers.com.

As previously suggested, JWO would be good as would the NAOC newsletter.
I'll mention it to a few other big car guys I know.  As I mentioned, I'd
love to have it but I need to rationalize the daily driver fleet and not add
to the collector car / hanger queen stable right now.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 13:05:31 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

I actually just got a call from a guy in Atlanta who saw the cctol ad at
$5500. He said he would call some auto transport companies to get a quote on
hauling it and call me back later today. I hope it works out, as I really
need to sell it. Unfortunately time is a luxury that I don't have. Jack Kopf
is sticking his neck out and taking some guff from the better half by
letting me have it at his house.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Frederick Nissen
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 12:49 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?


> I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for my 68 98 convertible.
It
> did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less than that. I'm wondering
if
> I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I really have to sell it.

- ---------------------------

John,

I wish I needed or had a place to put another 98 Conv instead of a Custom
Cruiser.  I don't think your prices are out of line ($3,500.00 is a real
bargain IMO).  You are selling an antique / special interest car, not a two
year old Camry.  What you need is a serious buyer who has the $$$, space and
time.  I hate to tell you to be patient, but that is the secret to selling a
car like this without taking a bath on the deal.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 13:07:16 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

Thanks Fred. I appreciate anything anybody can do to help spread the word.

The only problem w/ JWO and other newsletters is that it might be a month or
more before people actually see the ad. Time is of the essence.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Frederick Nissen
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 12:53 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

> Ebay, cctol, and Hemmings. A friend of mine just suggested carbuyers.com.

As previously suggested, JWO would be good as would the NAOC newsletter.
I'll mention it to a few other big car guys I know.  As I mentioned, I'd
love to have it but I need to rationalize the daily driver fleet and not add
to the collector car / hanger queen stable right now.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:19:14 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

> I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for my 68 98 convertible. It
> did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less than that. I'm wondering if
> I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I really have to sell it.

John,

I noticed that there was a red '68 convertible on there while your's was on.
How did the red one do?  I recall it being in the same price, but in better
condition (no slam intended) and in "resale red".

> The weird thing is that people have written to me about both of my cars
> saying that I am not asking enough for them and that I could get more.

Notice, though, that those people never actually buy?

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 12:21:16 -0500
From: ilo@kwom.com
Subject: Re: Should I buy 72 Cutlass Conv. ???

Thanks for all the in put. 
I still thinking about buying it. He would have
to come down with his price now that I would have
to put a new top on. 

thanks guys

James

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 11:06:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: any Chicago area members looking for 8.5" 3.42 gears

- --0-985912028-1084817164=:24405
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

This is for anyone in the Chicago area.  There is a guy on ROP selling some parts he bought at Summit.  I am interested in the Eaton posi he has for sale, but he made me a counter offer of the posi and some Richmond 3.42 gears for the 8.5" corporate rear axle.  The gears fit the 3 series carrier, 2.73 and up I believe.  Anyway, he offered me the pair with free shipping.  While I can't use the gears, I thought I would check and see if anyone here can use them.  And if it's any consolation, I have a connection to a place that can set up the gears in your rear axle.  Hit me privately if interested grp442@yahoo.com  He wants $125 for the gears, check out the thread on ROP for the particulars.
 
Thanks
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 W-31
1970 F-85
1969 442 parts car
1970 F-85 parts car
plus a whole mess of parts for sale

		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-985912028-1084817164=:24405
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>This is for anyone in the Chicago area.&nbsp; There is a guy on ROP selling some parts he bought at Summit.&nbsp; I am interested in the Eaton posi he has for sale, but he made me a counter offer of the posi and some Richmond 3.42 gears for the 8.5" corporate rear axle.&nbsp; The gears fit the 3 series carrier, 2.73 and up I believe.&nbsp; Anyway, he offered me the pair with free shipping.&nbsp; While I can't use the gears, I thought I would check and see if anyone here can use them.&nbsp; And if it's any consolation, I have a connection to a place that can set up the gears in your rear axle.&nbsp; Hit me privately if interested <A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A>&nbsp; He wants $125 for the gears, check out the thread on ROP for the particulars.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 W-31</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85</DIV>
<DIV>1969 442 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>1970 F-85 parts car</DIV>
<DIV>plus a whole mess of parts for sale</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br><a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=24311/*http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/">SBC Yahoo!</a> - Internet access at a great low price.
- --0-985912028-1084817164=:24405--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 11:44:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

Hello John  To an Olds guy like myself I feel $4500 is
a very fair price. I also think people are holding
back buying because of fear of the economy. I know the
"bigger" cars have a limited group but when they SEE
the bigger cars they take a fancy to them. I would try
selling it at large swap meets or Olds shows and
advertise it on 442.com.  Good Luck, Ken Treharn
- --- John Nasta <email@johnnasta.com> wrote:
> I'd like some opinions on how much I should ask for
> my 68 98 convertible. It
> did not sell on ebay at $4500, so obviously less
> than that. I'm wondering if
> I should re-list it at $3500 or go even lower. I
> really have to sell it.
> 
> The weird thing is that people have written to me
> about both of my cars
> saying that I am not asking enough for them and that
> I could get more. The
> bottom line is that I keep dropping the prices and
> neither of them has sold.
> So, I tend to think that asking more is not a good
> idea. No matter how you
> slice it, I'm going to take a big loss on both of
> these cars, but they have
> to go.
> 
> Thanks for any opinions/advice.
> 
> John "in hell" Nasta
> 
> 
> 
> 



	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 13:59:24 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: OT  Custom License Plates

In Texas we can register cars older than 25 years as antiques with some limitations.  One option I have is to use plates from the same year of manufacture as mine.  In my case 1970.  I started looking for some 1970 Texas car plates and came across a place that makes plates that they describe as "This is an unofficial LICENSE plate and is similar but not identical to original.".  My question is has anyone ever had a set of new plates like this made and then tried to register them on an antique car?

I wouldn't mind trying this.  I could always claim ignorance if it did not work out.  How could I go about checking if the numbers I picked are valid for the year in question, and if  there is a car with that number currently registered?

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:13:35 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

Thanks Ken. I can't take it to shows because it is not registered or
insured, and also because I have zero days a week off. The only day I ever
take off is Sunday and I'm pretty much obligated to spend that day working
on my El Camino because I have to sell it too for the same reasons.
Hopefully the guy who called today from Atlanta will come through.

The irony of this is that I can't help but think about all the times I was
driving it with the top down and people would shout out to ask me if I
wanted to sell it and I would say that it was not for sale. Naturally when I
actually do want to sell it, nobody is interested.

442.com is a good idea.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of kenneth treharn
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 2:45 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

Hello John  To an Olds guy like myself I feel $4500 is
a very fair price. I also think people are holding
back buying because of fear of the economy. I know the
"bigger" cars have a limited group but when they SEE
the bigger cars they take a fancy to them. I would try
selling it at large swap meets or Olds shows and
advertise it on 442.com.  Good Luck, Ken Treharn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:12:46 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: OT  Custom License Plates

Mike Schlottman wrote:
> In Texas we can register cars older than 25 years as antiques with some limitations.  One option I have is to use plates from the same year of manufacture as mine.  In my case 1970.  I started looking for some 1970 Texas car plates and came across a place that makes plates that they describe as "This is an unofficial LICENSE plate and is similar but not identical to original.".  My question is has anyone ever had a set of new plates like this made and then tried to register them on an antique car?
> 
> I wouldn't mind trying this.  I could always claim ignorance if it did not work out.  How could I go about checking if the numbers I picked are valid for the year in question, and if  there is a car with that number currently registered?
> 
>      mike
> 
> Mike Schlottman
> Sr. Systems Administrator
> Society of Petroleum Engineers
> 222 Palisades Creek Drive 
> Richardson, TX 75083
> 972-952-9382
> 
> 
Hi Mike
    I have no idea. In Ohio we can use original year plates also. I have 
them on two cars. These are/were actual Ohio plates. Look around on the 
web. You should be able to find someone with original texas plates. 
There are several plate refinishers if you find some not in too good of 
shape.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4892
*********************************
