
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, March 12 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4815



Re: Home electrical issues
Re: Protect-O-Plate Decode
RE: FW: The guts of a Muncie
Re: Home electrical problems....
Re: muncie houses, grinding tin lizzies
1971 qjet
Re: 1971 qjet
RE: Good deal Optima Batt/Trojans safer
Re: Fuel pump delivery rate Ramblings
Re: Fuel pump delivery rate?
Re: rebuild
RE:Instruction on Determining Pushrod Length with Adjustable Pushrod
Stupid Question.
Re: Stupid Question.
Man seeks outer trim parts for a 59 "98" Olds
Re: Stupid Question.
Pushrod info
Re: Stupid Question.
Re: Stupid Question.
Seeks right angle speedo cable adapter for 68 442
Re: Fuel pump delivery rate?
Man seeks 68 Toro w.o. MOLDINGS TRIMS
Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
RE: Pushrod info
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: One Man brake bleeder
Re: One Man brake bleeder
Re: Pushrod info
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
RE: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: 1971 qjet
Andre Leclerc New E mail address
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
'86 Hurst / was Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??
Re: Stupid Question.
Re: '86 Hurst / was Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:36:21 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Home electrical issues

D'oh!  Sorry folks, that last one was supposed to go out privately, not to
the list....


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:00:10 -0600
From: "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Re: Protect-O-Plate Decode

The 20-266 numbers is a Dealer Code that is imprented on the Dealers Plate
(Stamp). The first two numbers (20)are the zone number and the next three
(266) the dealer number. They are also printed on the factory build sheet
between the VIN number and the order number. The Protect-O-Plate will also
list the car milege right of the VIN number if there was miles on the car
when the warrenty became effective.

Dan Bodine
70 W31 4 speed (owned for 34 years)
71 442
87 442 (Sons)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 21:01:33 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: FW: The guts of a Muncie

One thing (or two) to look for is excessive wear on the inside of the 
sliding collar that engages the teeth on the synchro as well as the teeth on 
the corrosponding gear that match those on the synchro.  Make sure you 
replace anything  with excessive wear.  If you don't, you can prematurely 
wear the new synchros and may have trouble keeping it in that gear.

There is now an abundance of Muncie repair parts being produced, unlike 
about 15 years ago when things were getting hard to find.  The aftermarket 
is a wonderful thing.

All of the torque and power go through those little teeth on the side of the 
gears before it goes through the regular teeth.   Not a lot of anything to 
hold all that power when you think about it.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

_________________________________________________________________
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as 
$29.95/month. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:06:00 -0600
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Re: Home electrical problems....

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
Sorry, I'm a hopeless computer geek, and must reply.

I love APCs. I highly reccommend them for any computer
installation. They can be had for extremely cheap. I
currently run 5 of them 24/7 and have never had a bit of
trouble out of one of them. Now that I have spoken highly
of them, I expect a massive fire in my datacenter.
Regardless, you might want to do some breaker checking to
see if everything is drawing off of one circuit. Easiest
way is obviously to plug a light in and flip breakers until
it goes off... See which outlets are affected. You didn't
say what kind of laser printer you are running, but some of
the old ones are power hogs. Some of the newer ones that
are larger/faster are also power hogs. If you get a UPS,
make sure that the laser printer is plugged into the surge
protection only outlet... Battery won't run it for long, if
at all, and might even cause the breaker on the UPS to pop.
Additionally, one thing that might alleviate some of your
problems is to hook the laser printer to a different outlet
on a different circuit. Don't know how practical that is.
Check and see if big appliances such as the refrigerator or
air conditioner are also on the same circuit. When that big
compressor on the fridge kicks on and off, that can cause
some serious power fluctuations--even more reason to get a
UPS.


Sorry I haven't been able to reply to more stuff on the
list--you guys have really helped me, but I am still
learning. When I see something like this, I feel obligated
to try to give back a little bit of what everyone has given
me with their help...

Amp install pics are still forthcoming when I get some
spare time.


- --Branson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 18:34:25 -0800
From: "jack k" <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: muncie houses, grinding tin lizzies

i have a stock 1922  "TIN LIZZIE"  C cab pickup
it has a stock planetary transmission
it is a manually shifted by foot pedals kinda automatic
it is not capable of grinding the gears cause it is all band operated
you can talk about its lack of speed
you can talk about its lack of brakes
you can talk about its gravity feed gas that makes me back up hills
you can talk about mr ford and his effect on modern work standards and
ethics
but please use some other ford for the grinding of gears when shifting
syndrome

22 ford stock
47 olds blown
others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:40:06 -0600
From: "jbschuren" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: 1971 qjet

the qjet on my 71 Rocket 350 has seen better days(it's over 32 years old and
has never been removed from the car for all I know) and has behaved better
as well...choke is sticking, the carb is developing leaks/wetness around the
gaskets, etc...
I was wondering where I might be able to purchase a reputable replacement.
I'd like to keep the stock one in my "original" parts bin, so I'm not
looking to do a core exchange.  I also do not want a carter or holley, I
need a direct replacement, plus I do like the behavior of a qjet for a daily
driver.

Any help/advice is appreciated

JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:03:31 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 1971 qjet

> the qjet on my 71 Rocket 350 has seen better days(it's over 32 years old
and
> has never been removed from the car for all I know) and has behaved better
> as well...choke is sticking, the carb is developing leaks/wetness around
the
> gaskets, etc...
> I was wondering where I might be able to purchase a reputable replacement.
> I'd like to keep the stock one in my "original" parts bin

- ---------------

Send it off to Sparky, the General or another reputable Quadrajet rebuilder
and have the original fixed.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:57:45 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: RE: Good deal Optima Batt/Trojans safer

Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com> wrote:

>All,
>    I just thought I'd pass the word on one of my latest part
>acquisitions.  I got an Optima battery for my daily driver from Summit
>Racing.  The battery was $129.99, and the shipping was FREE.
>
>>
Hi Steve
I have always Used a "Trojan" to be safe :)
http://www.trojanbattery.com/default.asp
http://www.trojanbattery.com/technology_deepcycle.html
The other night i took my spare nine yr old Trojan out with a Huge Cebie off road light clamped on it to help Neighbour with his broke Chebbie car out back...2 days later i had to jump start him...i had not put it on a charger yet.
The Trojan kicked his motor no problem to a start.
IIRC the largest cranking batt. Trojan has in our size cases being cheaper then Summits good deal?
Randy(what ever turns yer crank)H.
Van.B.C.Can
3 Trojans

__________________________________________________________________
Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. 
Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

Netscape. Just the Net You Need. 

New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 00:03:51 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Re: Fuel pump delivery rate Ramblings

Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net> wrote:

>At 02:46 PM 3/11/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>>As long as your engine will not be taken over 5000 RPM, use the Carter 72
>>GPH electric pump.
>
>Should one use a regulator with an electric pump? I rember having erratic
>flooding problems with a bit too much pressure from one I had years ago.
>
>SteveH
>
>Hi crew chief
..IIRC the smaller Elec, pumps only put out a min. amount press. like approx 4 pds. So a reg is not needed.
The larger pumps can give flooding problems,they put out 7-10 pds approx.
Running outa fuel after launch and 1/2 way down the 1/4 mile is not fun(poor pistons).
A outside windshield fuel gauge is needed to be sure proper press. is maintained.
I believe i got mine set at 7 pds on Bumo.
The racers trick is to extend the fuel bowls for a larger res. of fuel and jet extensions,this allows the level to be maintained easier.
I sure want a A/F sensor in my pipes,and get some adj. airbleeds...dyno time.I have a port on the back of fuel rail for tri carb for fuel press i should buy a gauge to check mech pump press.
I wont sleep tonight prolly...Thanks!
Randy H.
Van.B.C.Can.

__________________________________________________________________
Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. 
Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

Netscape. Just the Net You Need. 

New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:18:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump delivery rate?

> Should one use a regulator with an electric pump? I rember having erratic
> flooding problems with a bit too much pressure from one I had years ago.


Not with a Carter. The pump is self-regulated internally to a 7 PSI maximum,
which is ideal for any carb.

Holley electric pumps are a completely different story. A Holley can't be
trusted without an external regulator, even if Holley claims the pump is
internally regulated to 7 PSI.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:22:05 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: rebuild

> Ummm... Milton... have you ever seen a Toro oil pan?? That additional
quart
> just sits in the front sump instead of the back. If you compare a RWD pan
> to a Toro, you'll notice the rear sumps are almost identical while the
> Toro's front sump is just a bit deeper. So the Toro pan really doesn't do
> much good other than holding another quart; and you don't even get that
> quart unless you're flooring it to make it move back to the rear.


I know. That's why one must either body-work that hump out or cut it out and
weld in a flat patch. That way, the extra quart of oil gets used.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 07:08:16 -0500
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: RE:Instruction on Determining Pushrod Length with Adjustable Pushrod

On cylinder # 1, turn engine over until you are at TDC compression
stroke. Both valves will be closed, and the lifters will be on the base
circle of the cam. Place the adjustable P/R on the intake side. With the
rocker pivot loose and a .040" feeler gauge between the pivot base and
head mounting boss, turn the adjustable P/R until it just touches the
rocker arm and the lifter. There should be a slight amount of drag when
you spin the P/R between your fingers. This is the correct P/R length.
When you tighten down the rocker arm pivot, the .040" gap will transfer
to compressing the lifter plunger. You now have the correct preload.

You should validate this but taking the adjustable P/R and trying it in
other positions. The length of the adjustable P/R can be sent to Smith
Brothers for a custom made set.

Paul Tumolo, Principal
Edusult Performance Systems
6 Clark Street
Medway, MA 02053
Office: 508-482-0184
Mobile: 508-789-8191
E-mail: ptumolo@comcast.net
Website: www.edusult.com
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:09:32 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Stupid Question.

What does llRC mean? Don't beat me up too badly   :-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:24:59 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stupid Question.

swanny wrote:
> 
> What does llRC mean? Don't beat me up too badly   :-)

If I remember correctly...

- --
joe vitek

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:29:28 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Man seeks outer trim parts for a 59 "98" Olds

Hmmmm..
no way to contact this guy unless he sells something on  EBay
then can use "ask seller a question" feature I guess
Anybody got what he needs?
Oh, what fun it is to work with eVil.
============================

>From: aw-confirm@ebay.com
>To: rocketscience442@hotmail.com
>Subject: Question from eBay Member: CARB Olds 59-62 "4-Jet" Brand New NOS 
>+No Reserve
>Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:26:48 -0800
>
>Dear *the*rocketscientist,
>
>Any chance of haveing, or know someone that has outer trim parts for a 59 
>"98" olds.,  Thanx, Gerry.
>
>To view the item, go to: 
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2466294221
>
>Thank you,
>gerry5998

_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech 
Hacks & Scams. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/techsafety.armx

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:35:17 -0500
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: Stupid Question.

  remember "WHAT"     :-)))   sorry could not resist....
john
67 cutlass supreme



> swanny wrote:
> > 
> > What does llRC mean? Don't beat me up too badly   :-)
> 
> If I remember correctly...
> 
> --
> joe vitek
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 05:43:10 -0800 (PST)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: Pushrod info

I see the subject of pushrods has come up again. I am
always buying "project" cars. One such car (78
Seville/ 455 Olds) It was one of the better deals I
bought. Engine ran great, good oil pressure and quiet.
After I pulled the engine I took the valve covers off,
all new valve springs + retainers and after market
rockers + bridges (Crane I think) and black coated
3/8's standard length pushrods. Hmmm the guy told me
the engine was completely rebuild and all new valve
train pieces, Erson .504 cam as I recall. I was
suprised to see the bigger pushrods. I checked to see
if the G-heads holes had been inlarged and they
hadn't. None of the pushrods show any scrape marks. I
was "always" told u had to open the hole up before
running the fatter 3/8's pushrods. This engine has
3000 miles on it plus with a .500" lift cam and 1.6
briges and rockers if the fatter pushrods will hit
then the should have shown marks. Is this another
"Olds" myth? All I know is the selection for 3/8's
pushrods are much better than 5/16's. So if u have a
cam under.500 I figure u can get the proper length
from Comp's or Summit. Probably cheaper plus stronger.
 Anybody else ever come across this? Later, Ken 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:45:41 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stupid Question.

Haha, I also should have said that it's not llRC, but it's IIRC and it could
also be "If I Recall Correctly". There are sites that have all these internet
abbreviations.

http://www.webenet.com/internetglossary.htm
http://bovis.gyuvet.ch/3dict/390ainet.htm

for a start...

- --
joe vitek

JOHN ORR wrote:
> 
>   remember "WHAT"     :-)))   sorry could not resist....
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme
> 
> > swanny wrote:
> > >
> > > What does llRC mean? Don't beat me up too badly   :-)
> >
> > If I remember correctly...
> >
> > --
> > joe vitek

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:56:58 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Stupid Question.

Thank You all for the replies and going easy on me......

Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Vitek" <joevitek@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Stupid Question.


> Haha, I also should have said that it's not llRC, but it's IIRC and it
could
> also be "If I Recall Correctly". There are sites that have all these
internet
> abbreviations.
>
> http://www.webenet.com/internetglossary.htm
> http://bovis.gyuvet.ch/3dict/390ainet.htm
>
> for a start...
>
> --
> joe vitek
>
> JOHN ORR wrote:
> >
> >   remember "WHAT"     :-)))   sorry could not resist....
> > john
> > 67 cutlass supreme
> >
> > > swanny wrote:
> > > >
> > > > What does llRC mean? Don't beat me up too badly   :-)
> > >
> > > If I remember correctly...
> > >
> > > --
> > > joe vitek
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:00:39 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Seeks right angle speedo cable adapter for 68 442

I have purchased products from you on eBay.I've seen that you are parting 
out some cars .What I've been looking for the last 2 years is a speedometer 
adapter for a 1968 Olds 442 .This has to be a manual transmission.It has a 
90 degree angel and believe only 68 Olds 442 had them.If you have one or 
know someone who has one .PLEASE let me know.Thanks David
===============
I know what you mean, speedo drive on RH side of trans, need to get cable 
going toward front of car. I think that many 4-spd cars use that trans 
tailhouse and therefore that adaptor. You might need to know what ratio you 
need based on your tire sizes and rear end ratio- Service Manual usually has 
a chart for that, Assembly Manual should for sure. Or, ANY adapter is better 
than none.

Anyhow, I have none at this time, try your local Trans shops, Manual trans 
supply houses. Look on eBay for such an item, or look for Manual Trans M21 
Parts and then ask those sellers if they can get you one. If you find a good 
source, let me know, and I will share that info with others.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech 
Hacks & Scams. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/techsafety.armx

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:03:11 -0500
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: Re: Fuel pump delivery rate?

Steve,

It depends on the model of e-fuel pump you use.  Some, like the 72GPH
carter, are internally regulated at a fixed pressure, while others require
an external pressure regulator.  I run a Holley ... it is internally
regulated and puts out a constant 7psi.  Holleys are notoriously noisy ...
I wish I knew that before I bought it, but I'll wait 'till it burns up to
replace it.  I don't drive the car that much anyway.

The externally regulated setups are nicer, IMO, since the external
regulator offers you the ability to adjust the fuel pressure to your needs.
They are also more $.  Summit makes a decent looking regulator and pump
setup that sells for $140 (part SUM-G3134-5).  Most of the other pump and
external regulator setups I've seen cost more.

HTH,
Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv
some other stuff


Steve Harrison wrote:
>>>>>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump delivery rate?

At 02:46 PM 3/11/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>As long as your engine will not be taken over 5000 RPM, use the Carter 72
>GPH electric pump.

Should one use a regulator with an electric pump? I rember having erratic
flooding problems with a bit too much pressure from one I had years ago.

SteveH
<<<<<

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:11:58 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Man seeks 68 Toro w.o. MOLDINGS TRIMS

I AM RESTORING A 1968 TORONADO IN AUSTRALIA.
I AM LOOKING FOR 4 WHEEL ARCH MOULDINGS. I THINK THEY MAY BE STAINLESS 
STEEL. DO
YOU HAVE ANY?

REGARDS
greg
============
had one, not sure if I sold it or tossed it back in the car, or it if got 
lost in the Quagmire of Parts.

I will fwd this to the emai and Toro email lists, see if they can help you.

You should post a free WANTED ad on www.442.com, and of course ck Heming's 
Motor News [web site?] and ck eBay regularly.

Listers- if you can assist, contact HIM DIRECTLY please:
  greg.alford@holden.com.au

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Store more e-mails with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage – 4 plans to choose from! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 06:13:51 -0800 (PST)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

Hello List  I just came in to warm up a bit so I
figured I would tell of my latest nightmare. I bought
a 63.000 mile 1971 Delta Conv.  I am going over it to
get it ready for some Summer driving. While I was
changing fluids and filters I noticed the valve covers
were leaking a bit.  I put new cover gaskets but while
I had the air-conditioning loosen up I figure I would
put a fuel pnmp on. While I had the pump off I figured
I would check the timimg chain. It was loose. Hmmmm
was a little hard to start cold thats why I figured
the fuel pump was going. OK pull the timing cover, Cam
gear looked like a saw blade, no neopreme left. I had
a hard time pulling crank gear. It was only keyed
1/3rd of the way through so the key positioned it. I
have never seen this on a 455 Olds before. It has GM
stamped on it.  I figure this may be why the chain
wore so much. Anyhow I figure well, I might as well
pull the pan and clean out the sreen and put a new oil
pump on as well. A couple of crossover studs broke off
so I figured OK I will be putting headers plus duals
on also anyway. To get pan off starter plus engine
mounts have to be removed from engine. OK. Then I see
some soft plugs look a little rusty and the steel
brake line going under the engine looks rusty. Thats
it!! Easier to pull the engine and put it on a stand! 
To me it seems there are no easy fixes, it always
snowballs. Later, Ken

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 10:10:50 -0600
From: "Ian Dixon" <IDixon@sbrc.ca>
Subject: RE: Pushrod info

Wow, this is good info - thank you Ken.  I recently compared B and G
heads for pushrod hole sizes and that the G's were very slightly larger.
No hard numbers in this regard, just a simple comparison using a tapered
punch to note insertion depth.

Ian Dixon

- -----Original Message-----
I was "always" told u had to open the hole up before
running the fatter 3/8's pushrods. This engine has
3000 miles on it plus with a .500" lift cam and 1.6
briges and rockers if the fatter pushrods will hit
then the should have shown marks. Is this another
"Olds" myth? All I know is the selection for 3/8's
pushrods are much better than 5/16's. So if u have a
cam under.500 I figure u can get the proper length
from Comp's or Summit. Probably cheaper plus stronger.
 Anybody else ever come across this? Later, Ken 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 12:09:19 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

At 09:13 AM 3/12/2004, you wrote:
>Hello List  I just came in to warm up a bit so I
>figured I would tell of my latest nightmare. I bought
>a 63.000 mile 1971 Delta Conv.  I am going over it to
[snip]
>To me it seems there are no easy fixes, it always
>snowballs. Later, Ken

I've had a broken rocker arm snowball into a full engine rebuild before, so 
I know what you're talking about.

Given the scope of what you're talking about doing to that motor, pulling 
the engine is a reasonable option. You're already unhooking the coolant 
hoses, fuel-lines, motor-mounts and exhaust; the only things left are the 
accelerator cable, the vacuum-line, the ground-strap and the 
bellhousing/converter bolts.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 12:48:04 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

A friend wanted to put headers on '86 Hurst and didn't wait til I could get
my torches to his house, and he stupidly started snapping off ex-man studs
and thought I could just drill em out after......errrrrrrnnnnnnntt wrong
answer.. needless to say I got a 307 with 45k on it. still waitin to replace
the heads on it... I need one more head and it would be complete.
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Barry" <rbarry@providence.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??


> At 09:13 AM 3/12/2004, you wrote:
> >Hello List  I just came in to warm up a bit so I
> >figured I would tell of my latest nightmare. I bought
> >a 63.000 mile 1971 Delta Conv.  I am going over it to
> [snip]
> >To me it seems there are no easy fixes, it always
> >snowballs. Later, Ken
>
> I've had a broken rocker arm snowball into a full engine rebuild before,
so
> I know what you're talking about.
>
> Given the scope of what you're talking about doing to that motor, pulling
> the engine is a reasonable option. You're already unhooking the coolant
> hoses, fuel-lines, motor-mounts and exhaust; the only things left are the
> accelerator cable, the vacuum-line, the ground-strap and the
> bellhousing/converter bolts.
>
>
> _______________________________________
> Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
> http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:51:27 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: One Man brake bleeder

I find the vac. method to work very poorly if your bleeders fit loosely in 
the calipers in the open position. Air can seep in through the threads and 
you are done bleeding ...

I use this www.motiveproducs.com gizmo and love it. Pressure bleeding is 
the way all shops bleed. For good reason. You definitely do not want to 
manually bleed, using the pedal. The MC piston sees areas in the bore that 
it usually never travels to. This can lead to the seals going bad and a 
leaky / prematurely failed master cylinder which would have lasted forever 
working in the normal operating range.

The other advantage of the pressure bleeder is the fact that you can fill 
it with brake fluid and it feeds the reservoir automatically. No chance to 
run dry during bleeding, a problem you still have with the vac. bleeding.

Cheers, George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:53:27 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: One Man brake bleeder

I had a typo in the web address. Here the correct one:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 10:59:43 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Pushrod info

Thunder Lizard uses 3/8" pushrods through her "C" heads. They just went
right in. I'd never heard of anyone questioning whether 3/8" pushrods would
clear Olds heads until I joined the List 3 years ago. I don't ever recollect
a problem 35 years ago.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "kenneth treharn" <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 6:43 AM
Subject: Pushrod info


> I see the subject of pushrods has come up again. I am
> always buying "project" cars. One such car (78
> Seville/ 455 Olds) It was one of the better deals I
> bought. Engine ran great, good oil pressure and quiet.
> After I pulled the engine I took the valve covers off,
> all new valve springs + retainers and after market
> rockers + bridges (Crane I think) and black coated
> 3/8's standard length pushrods. Hmmm the guy told me
> the engine was completely rebuild and all new valve
> train pieces, Erson .504 cam as I recall. I was
> suprised to see the bigger pushrods. I checked to see
> if the G-heads holes had been inlarged and they
> hadn't. None of the pushrods show any scrape marks. I
> was "always" told u had to open the hole up before
> running the fatter 3/8's pushrods. This engine has
> 3000 miles on it plus with a .500" lift cam and 1.6
> briges and rockers if the fatter pushrods will hit
> then the should have shown marks. Is this another
> "Olds" myth? All I know is the selection for 3/8's
> pushrods are much better than 5/16's. So if u have a
> cam under.500 I figure u can get the proper length
> from Comp's or Summit. Probably cheaper plus stronger.
>  Anybody else ever come across this? Later, Ken
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 13:03:04 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

swanny wrote:
> 
> A friend wanted to put headers on '86 Hurst

'86 Hurst? What's that?

- --
joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
http://oldsgmail.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
'83 H/O #2981 of 3001
'81 Supreme (to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
'72 Kawasaki H1 500cc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 12:04:33 -0600
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

So Ken, what color will you be painting this car?

The mitaswells kill me every time.  1 ten dollar repair can easily be turned into a $20k restoration.

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 10:20:21 -0800
From: geo.aigel@netzero.net
Subject: Re: 1971 qjet

I'd just send it to Sparky. Keep the original carb and get it back like new 
for the price of a decent store replacement.

http://home.wi.rr.com/toronado/carbs.html

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 13:27:02 -0500
From: "Andre Leclerc" <gibbypoo@ntl.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Andre Leclerc New E mail address

Hi Y,all...My E mail address is now andre54@ntl.sympatico.ca
This should fix those pesty spams...   Andre

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:00:53 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

Hurst/Olds...........
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Vitek" <joevitek@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??


> swanny wrote:
> > 
> > A friend wanted to put headers on '86 Hurst
> 
> '86 Hurst? What's that?
> 
> --
> joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
> http://oldsgmail.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
> '83 H/O #2981 of 3001
> '81 Supreme (to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
> '72 Kawasaki H1 500cc
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:09:53 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

swanny wrote:
> 
> Hurst/Olds...........
> ----- Original Message -----
> > swanny wrote:
> > >
> > > A friend wanted to put headers on '86 Hurst
> >
> > '86 Hurst? What's that?

heh, I was just kidding, Olds never made an H/O in 1986. I know there was the
4-4-2 in'85-'87 and H/O in '83-'84 and then the '88 H/O Aero Comemmorative as
an add on.

That's why I asked. Is this one of the '88 kits put on an '86 Cutlass?

- --
joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
http://oldsgmail.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
'83 H/O #2981 of 3001
'88 H/O Aero (soon to be built)
'81 Supreme (to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
'72 Kawasaki H1 500cc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:31:24 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

More than likley it is the latter, It was repainted with new decal  when he
bought it, needless to say, "my friend" wasn't the brightest light bulb in
the theater...... but I still have the motor.....I should check the castings
on the block before I do anything with it.......I don't think the motor can
even be built enough to make it worth while except for a decent daily
driver......
Thanks for that info on H/O
Pat...




- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Vitek" <joevitek@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??


> swanny wrote:
> >
> > Hurst/Olds...........
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > swanny wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A friend wanted to put headers on '86 Hurst
> > >
> > > '86 Hurst? What's that?
>
> heh, I was just kidding, Olds never made an H/O in 1986. I know there was
the
> 4-4-2 in'85-'87 and H/O in '83-'84 and then the '88 H/O Aero Comemmorative
as
> an add on.
>
> That's why I asked. Is this one of the '88 kits put on an '86 Cutlass?
>
> --
> joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
> http://oldsgmail.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
> '83 H/O #2981 of 3001
> '88 H/O Aero (soon to be built)
> '81 Supreme (to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
> '72 Kawasaki H1 500cc
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:33:58 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

Joe,
come to think of it, it was about 12yrs ago and it didn't have composite
headlights..........so more than likley it was an '84
Pat. <swanny>
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Vitek" <joevitek@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??


> swanny wrote:
> >
> > Hurst/Olds...........
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > swanny wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A friend wanted to put headers on '86 Hurst
> > >
> > > '86 Hurst? What's that?
>
> heh, I was just kidding, Olds never made an H/O in 1986. I know there was
the
> 4-4-2 in'85-'87 and H/O in '83-'84 and then the '88 H/O Aero Comemmorative
as
> an add on.
>
> That's why I asked. Is this one of the '88 kits put on an '86 Cutlass?
>
> --
> joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
> http://oldsgmail.com/
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
> '83 H/O #2981 of 3001
> '88 H/O Aero (soon to be built)
> '81 Supreme (to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
> '72 Kawasaki H1 500cc
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:02:22 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: '86 Hurst / was Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

> heh, I was just kidding, Olds never made an H/O in 1986. 

Actually...

The President on my local O.C.A. chapter has an '86 Hurst.  It is a Cutlass
Supreme (Brougham!) with a retro-fitted '88 Aero kit, or something like that.  
He wasn't sure it was authentic until he spoke with Doc Watson, who verified 
their existance.  Apparently Doc signed the decklid.  I think they  refer to it
as a Hurst.  I'll be seeing him this weekend.  I'll have to ask him about it.  
I haven't seen the car for about 6 months so I don't remember the  details, 
except it's black with gold trim and a burgandy bench interior.  

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 17:04:14 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Stupid Question.

swanny wrote:
> What does llRC mean? Don't beat me up too badly   :-)
> 
> 
> 
> 

took me a while to figure it out too.
IIRC  If I remember correctly
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 17:10:58 -0500
From: Joe Vitek <joevitek@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: '86 Hurst / was Re: Change valve covers- PULL ENGINE??

62oldsfan@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> > heh, I was just kidding, Olds never made an H/O in 1986.
> 
> Actually...
> 
> The President on my local O.C.A. chapter has an '86 Hurst.  It is a Cutlass
> Supreme (Brougham!) with a retro-fitted '88 Aero kit,

Yes, in my original response I asked if his friend's '86 car was a car that
had been fitted with the '88 kit. It would therfore be an '86 Hurst Aero
Commemorative. Soooo, I am fully aware of the different possibilities of the
Hurst/442 line in the '80s. I wish I could have one of each year!

See my sig below as I am in the process of putting one together.

- --
joe vitek (on the banks of the Merrimack River, Concord, New Hampshire)
http://oldsgmail.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joevitek/index.htm
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/C3carbhackers/
'83 H/O #2981 of 3001
'88 H/O Aero (soon to be built)
'81 Supreme (to be FE3-X clone MS'ed road racer)
'72 Kawasaki H1 500cc

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4815
*********************************
