
oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 18 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4893



RE: what is "the right price"?
RE: OT  Custom License Plates
RE: R12 to R134 startup
RE: what is "the right price"?
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?
RE: OT  Custom License Plates
RE: Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?
tips & trix
Re: OT  Custom License Plates
Re: W-31 engine rebuild status
RE:  Door lock parts
RE: what is "the right price"?
RE: what is "the right price"?
RE: W-31 engine rebuild status - Milton, your opinion here please...
Re: tips & trix
Re: tips & trix
UNBOUNCE: Need Resto Shop, N.C. Area
UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: W-31 engine rebuild status - Milton, your opinion here please...
Re: what is "the right price"?
Re: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: UNBOUNCE: Need Resto Shop, N.C. Area
1964 Cutlass rear bumper needed
Value of Mondello BB heads?
Fw: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
Re: 1964 Cutlass rear bumper needed

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 19:20:04 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

>The only problem w/ JWO and other newsletters is that it might be a month 
>or
>more before people actually see the ad. Time is of the essence.

I was going to suggest "Cars and Parts" magazine (subscribers get a free ad 
each year, and for a few extra bucks they'll run a color photo of the car as 
well), but since you're under the gun to sell it ASAP, that wouldn't be an 
option for you.

Unfortunately your perspective is exactly right: it'll sell to the right 
person for a good price, but not to anyone else at any price. Through 
countless garage sales I kept placing a somewhat battered 1962 Schwinn Fleet 
bicycle on display with a comfortable low-three-figures price tag on it, 
fully expecting to have to hang it back up in the basement at the end of the 
day, and for several years this was the routine every time. Finally just 
last Saturday, at our latest garage sale, a bike collector appeared, saw the 
bike for what it was, and bought it on the spot at full price.

I know this advice is worth what you're paying for it, but if the car really 
is worth several thousand dollars to the right buyer, it might be worth 
paying a little bit to safely store it just until you can get an ad out 
through some monthly collector publications.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 14:26:18 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: OT  Custom License Plates

I've got a little while to look, since my registration is not up for a few months.  But the advantage of having a set made, is that I would not have to look for years, and then pay a premium to get a set that has the numbers 442 in it.

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: John Kelsey [mailto:ribspot@pop4.net]
 > Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 2:13 PM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Re: OT Custom License Plates
 >  
 > Hi Mike
 >     I have no idea. In Ohio we can use original year plates 
 > also. I have 
 > them on two cars. These are/were actual Ohio plates. Look 
 > around on the 
 > web. You should be able to find someone with original texas plates. 
 > There are several plate refinishers if you find some not in 
 > too good of 
 > shape.
 > LOL
 > John Kelsey
 > Dayton Ohio
 > 
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 16:05:03 -0400
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
Subject: RE: R12 to R134 startup

Does anyone know if this stuff can be purchased in NY state?

Chris 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Kevin Wright
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 11:09 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: R12 to R134 startup


On May 14, 2004, at 6:26 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 14:33:31 -0500
> From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
> Subject: R12 to R134 startup
>
> Hello all-
>
> After trying thrice to get through with my School e-mail, not being 
> able to make it simple text, I've opted to get a new e-mail address. 
> Perhaps I can keep the spam down here.
>
> Minnesota still allows the sale of refrigerant, and our local K-mart 
> is stocking it.  I might be moving soon to Wisconsin, where it isn't 
> sold off the shelf and I wondered if it would be wise to pick some 
> R-134 up before I left.
>
> I can get 12oz cans of R-134a for $5.79
> R-134 ester oil, 2oz for $3.99
> Stop leak detector $4.99
> R-134 "high mileage" w/leak sealer $7.49
>
> I've got a '70 Cutlass Supreme and someday I'll be retrofitting the 
> original system that's been open for years to R-134.  How much of the 
> refrigerant and oil should I buy?  Is this a decent price for this 
> refrigerant?
> Perhaps it
> might be better to stick with R-12?  Any thoughts?

If you go with R-12 you will need to replace the POA valve (the big tapered
tube-thingy next to the AC evaporator box under the hood) with a dummy that
has a pressure switch. The POA valve regulates the refrigerant pressure in
the system. Working pressures for R-12 are different from 134a, so it has to
be changed over to a compressor-cycling setup that uses an adjustable
pressure switch in the place of the POA valve. About $100. New hoses would
be a good idea if going to 134a, and new o-rings on all the hose
connections. Be sure that the new o-rings are compatible with 134a (any
bought new at a pars store should be.) You'll also need to replace the dryer
with one that is 134a compatible - you'll need a new one anyway since the
system has been open. The one I got works with either refrigerant. You'll
probably want to have the system flushed to get out most of the old mineral
oil, not to mention junk that snuck in while the system was open. Finally,
I've read that the seals used in the A6 compressor may not play well with
134a, just like the older hose o-rings. That was my only real concern with
134a - everything else is relatively cheap and accessible
- - but other members of the list seem to have had good results.
I went with a hydrocarbon refrigerant called EnviroSafe ES-12a. It worked
with the original POA valve. I did put in new hoses, dryer, o-rings, and
expansion valve (knew that the expasion valve was bad from attempting to
charge with R-12 some years ago. It froze up.), but still running the
original compressor, POA valve, condenser, and evaporator. 
Cooled down to 50 degrees, but I was short a little on the charge. I'll be
buying more soon to recharge (I had to let it out to put a 90-degree fitting
on the low side [converted to 134a fittings] - it was painful to get the
charge hose on with the straight fitting. Heater hoses are in the way).
Don't worry, it's NOT Freon, though it's sill technically illegal to vent -
oops!
As far as how much, that's really based on pressure, but you can look in
your Service manual and see how much R-12 you're supposed to put in by
weight. There are charts around the web to ell you what the equivalent 134a
(or other refrigerant) should be.

FWIW, every auto parts store, Walmart, and such in Texas has oodles of
134a... no license (which I do have) required. $3-5/can, IIRC.
>
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :) ...and a '71
Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be parts if someone
doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 16:29:16 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

Where I live, garages go for about $200/month. I had it in a garage at
$175/month for 5 years and had to take it out. In the past 5 years I have
invested about $10k just in storage. I am starting to really not want to
think about how much money I have spent on old cars in the past 5 years only
to end up with nothing that is really worth anything. Between what I spent
on fixing and storing the 2 cars I would say I am easily $35k out of pocket.

I just sent an ad to Bryce and hopefully either that or the guy from Atlanta
will come through for me. I'll give it a few days but after that I think the
next thing to do is put it back on ebay at a lower price.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

I know this advice is worth what you're paying for it, but if the car really
is worth several thousand dollars to the right buyer, it might be worth
paying a little bit to safely store it just until you can get an ad out
through some monthly collector publications.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 13:41:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Wiles <royale455@yahoo.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

Hey John,
Have you considered collectorcartraderonline.com?  It is the collector/classic car
version of the Autotrader.  I've been looking there a lot lately for a daily driver.

Gary Wiles
1972 88 Conv.
Richardson, TX


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:08:01 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: OT  Custom License Plates

In Tennessee, we can do the same. I don't use them because the "correct" TN plates for my 1971 El Camino are green with yellow letters (for trucks only). The passenger cars are white with black letters. I haven't seen that it has to be the correct state (or correct as truck vs. car for that matter). Here, you keep the antique registration with you anyway. They do not use the numbers on the antique plate(s). Besides, what county mountie would know what plate "belongs" on your classic? They can't even tell if it's been modified from stock (a requirement for the antique in TN)  ;o),



<I wouldn't mind trying this.  I could always claim ignorance if it did not work out.  How could I go about checking if the <numbers I picked are valid for the year in question, and if  there is a car with that number currently registered?

     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:09:36 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

Thanks. It's already on there.


- -----Original Message-----


Hey John,
Have you considered collectorcartraderonline.com?  It is the
collector/classic car
version of the Autotrader.  I've been looking there a lot lately for a daily
driver.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:51:23 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: tips & trix

1. Get an assortment of cap plugs. The plastic plugs that you can use
for the tranny lines, fuel pump, and, most importantly, the hole where
the trans dipstick goes. You have to pull this to access one of the
engine to tranny bolts. If you don't have a plug, about a half quart of
fluid will spill out.
===============
Alternative 1: Wine bottle cork fits the trans hole real nice
Alternative 2: Drain the trans, coolant, and engine oil completely [even the 
block drains] before you start.

2. The engine to tranny bolts (6) are easy to remove except for 2 of
them. You will need a universal joint for your socket

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 hardtop
OCA # 31967
=============
L-o-n-g extension and a swivel [universal] SOCKET is great for that. A 12-pt 
univiersal socket also serves to remove rod bolts that are otherwise 
inaccessible on those engines which will not turn. If you do not have a set 
of universal sockets, might be time to get them, I had a set on eVil last 
week for $35, no bites. Even if you just buy the ONE 9/16 12-pt socket- 
about $9 at Sears- it's worth it.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:17:24 -0500
From: "spddemun" <kkas@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: OT  Custom License Plates

That is interesting.  I have not heard about using old plates, but have seen
them on cars here in TX.  Is there a risk of the old plates being officially
registered to a previous owner?

If I recall, we also have another plate that is for Classic cars, 25 years
or older, but no restrictions on driving (like the Antique plates) and can
be used for everyday driver cars.

I decided against the special plates since my car is an everyday driver.  It
already stands out like an aircraft carrier, so I figure I didn't need to
draw any more special attention to it :-)

spddemun


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 1:59 PM
Subject: OT Custom License Plates


> In Texas we can register cars older than 25 years as antiques with some
limitations.  One option I have is to use plates from the same year of
manufacture as mine.  In my case 1970.  I started looking for some 1970
Texas car plates and came across a place that makes plates that they
describe as "This is an unofficial LICENSE plate and is similar but not
identical to original.".  My question is has anyone ever had a set of new
plates like this made and then tried to register them on an antique car?
>
> I wouldn't mind trying this.  I could always claim ignorance if it did not
work out.  How could I go about checking if the numbers I picked are valid
for the year in question, and if  there is a car with that number currently
registered?
>
>      mike
>
> Mike Schlottman
> Sr. Systems Administrator
> Society of Petroleum Engineers
> 222 Palisades Creek Drive
> Richardson, TX 75083
> 972-952-9382
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 15:31:44 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: W-31 engine rebuild status

Chris,

What was wrong with the Milodon timing chain set???

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "chris smetana" <grp442@yahoo.com>
To: "oldslist" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 9:42 AM
Subject: W-31 engine rebuild status


> Hello again,
> Well, Mr. Jim Lapikas has provided me with the latest pictures and updates
of my beloved W-31 rebuild.  Below are a couple links to the latest pics.
As a side note, Jim found the Milodon timing chain set, a brand he has been
using for 15+ years without incident, to not be up to par.  So I now have a
Rollmaster t-chain set courtesy of fellow listmember James Aiello (I have a
feeling I'm never going to hear the end of this one from James though
:-))))  whose 455 Jim will be moving to sometime after he finishes my
engine.
>
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143793400AzxsDu
>
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143795324XbKOIa
>
> As for an estimated time to fire up this bad boy, I would guess soon.
Either this weekend or next weekend.  Stay tuned for further updates.  IT'S
GETTING CLOSER!!!!!  YES!!!!!!!
>
> Chris
> grp442@yahoo.com
>
> 1969 W-31 engine rebuild is moving along
> 1970 F-85 soon to be a daily driver!!!!!
> 1969 442 parts car
> 1970 F-85 parts car
> plus a whole mess of parts for sale
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 16:36:31 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: RE:  Door lock parts

Thanks Randy G. and others who suggested the HELP section at the parts 
store.  I found the clips for the lock rods for $3.99 each at 
Checker.  Much simpler than "rigging" up some other type of fix.

Joe Varley
     AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 16:49:45 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

John,
If you're willing to go back to the evil site as low as $3500, you may can 
talk to the Atlanta guy... $5500 with shipping included.  Last local friend 
who bought an ebay car only payed $650 shipping from Minnesota to Arizona.

M

At 01:05 PM 5/17/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I actually just got a call from a guy in Atlanta who saw the cctol ad at
>$5500. He said he would call some auto transport companies to get a quote on
>hauling it and call me back later today. I hope it works out, as I really
>need to sell it. Unfortunately time is a luxury that I don't have. Jack Kopf
>is sticking his neck out and taking some guff from the better half by
>letting me have it at his house.
>
>John Nasta
>

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 17:02:21 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: RE: what is "the right price"?

Ahh, the benefits of living in Arizona.... Where I can afford my own space 
(although yet, uncovered)
That last 5 yrs, John, would build me a nice 20x24 garage.
M

At 04:29 PM 5/17/2004 -0400, John Nasta wrote:
>Where I live, garages go for about $200/month. I had it in a garage at
>$175/month for 5 years and had to take it out. In the past 5 years I have
>invested about $10k just in storage. I am starting to really not want to
>think about how much money I have spent on old cars in the past 5 years only
>to end up with nothing that is really worth anything. Between what I spent
>on fixing and storing the 2 cars I would say I am easily $35k out of pocket.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 20:24:22 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: W-31 engine rebuild status - Milton, your opinion here please...

Chris, the engine looks like it is coming along well.  I do have one 
concern based on this pic:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143699774Qbjkfm

I was under the impression that the rods should not be heated to the 
point where the turn blue, as this indicates that the metal has been 
overheated and weakened.  Your rods were clearly heated this much when 
the pistons were pressed on.  My concern is that if the rods have been 
weakened at the pin end, a catastrophic failure could result later.  If 
I am wrong then no harm done - I think Milton and others on the list are 
better at the mechanics of materials stuff than I, and it would be far 
better to broach this question now rather than after the engine were 
trashed.

Sorry if I'm being an alarmist for nothing, but I would at least ask the 
question if it were my engine!

Michael Ecker

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 00:19:38 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: tips & trix

At 05:51 PM 5/17/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>1. Get an assortment of cap plugs.

... and where might one find cap plugs?

I also need to get a plug for my 200-4R's output. Don't have a spare yoke,
unfortunately  ;o(

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 20:38:48 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: tips & trix

In a message dated 5/17/04 7:34:52 PM Central Daylight Time, k0xp@dandy.net 
writes:
- -- I also need to get a plug for my 200-4R's output. Don't have a spare yoke, 
unfortunately  ;o( --

Steve,

Look in a Summit or Jeg's catalog (possibly even in a local parts store that 
does some high-perf sales), several companies sell a plastic plug that can 
take the place of the driveshaft yoke.

I need to look myself, all too often I've wished I had one.......

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:21:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need Resto Shop, N.C. Area

Not on the list, respond to jcraft@craftindustries.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "Jim Craft" <jcraft@craftindustries.com>
Subject: Shop to fix up '72 Cutlass Convertible

I have a 1972 Cutlass convertible that I would like to get restored or at
least where I can enjoy driving it.  It’s been in storage for 12 years.
Minor damage to driver’s front end.  Looking for names to call of possible
shops in the North Carolina area.
Thanks for any help.
Jim Craft
P O Box 53
Farmville, NC 27828
jcraft@craftindustries.com
Ph 252 753-5600

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:23:59 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

Not on the list, respond to apenello@netwiz.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   Albert Penello <apenello@netwiz.net>
Subject: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

Hey everyone!

I'm trying to dial in my engine on my 1965 Olds 442 and Iâ€™m having a problem.

I have the original 400 motor, which was recently freshened up with a new
cam, double-roller timing chain, headwork, roller-rockers and a new
Edelbrock intake manifold. 

A few weeks ago I put in a Pertronix Ignitor II with Blaster II coil,
removed the resistance wire and put in a 10deg vac advance can. Iâ€™m
running 10 deg initial, 36deg total mechanical plus the 10 deg vacuum.
Iâ€™ve reduced the timing down and run with and without vacuum advance and
I still have the same problem. 

The car runs great at idle and accelerates cleanly. No smoke at idle,
startup, or acceleration. The problem is, when I let OFF the gas, I get
blue(ish) smoke out of the tailpipes. So if I do a WOT run and let OFF the
gas, I get smoke. When I come off the freeway and start to brake, I get
blue smoke. 

What could be the cause of this? I checked a couple of plugs and they all
look fine. Could it be timing related?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 18:28:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: W-31 engine rebuild status - Milton, your opinion here please...

Chris, Michael, and the List,

I had only looked at the 2 pictures of the degreed short block before.

I'm sorry Chris. Your rods scare me.

I read this post and looked at the picture and almost had a heart attack.
I'm not joking. I saw those very nice looking polished rods and saw the heat
scorch.

I cannot over emphasize this point enough. ***The rods should ***never*** be
heated to install the piston pins, period***.

Once, a new hire in the machine shop was assembling a small block Chevy.
Gary Kimball caught him on the third rod heating it with a torch to install
a piston pin. Gary brought the individual to me and told me what happened.
Since I didn't believe in micro-managing but to lead by example, I asked
Gary what he believed. Gary said that he could no longer trust the
individual to do a good job. I then terminated the man's employment.
(Remember, the high performance machine shop of the speed shop built
professional race engines. We could not afford a breach of our credibility.
I had no choice but to terminate the man's employment.) We then got 3 new,
used, and seasoned rods, magnafluxed and polished and resized them, balanced
them to the other 5 rods, and finished building the engine. The 3 heated
rods were thrown away in the trash. We were a few days late in our promised
delivery date.

We assembled piston pins into rods by freezing the pins overnight in our
freezer (that's the reason we had a freezer, to shrink parts, and the
freezer was in the machine shop in the work area), applying liberal amounts
of engine oil, and using a very robust and perfectly aligned hydraulic press
with excellent holding tools and fixtures. We never had a pressed piston pin
come loose.

I quote from the 1965 Olds Shop Manual:

Installation # 3
Coat piston pin with SAE 10W30 oil. Place pin in piston as shown in figure
3-88. Press in piston pin with Tool BT-6408-3 until it makes contact with
guide stop Tool BT-6408-2 in main body Tool 6408-1. This will automatically
center the pin in the piston. Pin to connecting rod fit is 0.0008" to
0.0016" tight.

The point is, there is ***no*** heating of the piston pin end of the rod.
The pin is sized correctly for a tight fit to the rod and is pressed in with
perfect alignment with plenty of oil for lubrication to prevent galling of
the pin surface to the rod bore.

Chris, again, I'm extremely sorry. I'd be afraid to run your engine very
hard. If that were my engine, I would be right down the builder's throat.

At this point, to try to inject at least a little humor here, a quote
recently passed on to me by Phil Murphy may apply:

"Grant my wish before I stuff a badger down your throat and strap a steak to
your ass."
        -- Zorak, Insectoid Humanitarian

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Ecker" <ecker567@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: W-31 engine rebuild status - Milton, your opinion here
please...


> Chris, the engine looks like it is coming along well.  I do have one
> concern based on this pic:
>
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/143699774Qbjkfm
>
> I was under the impression that the rods should not be heated to the
> point where the turn blue, as this indicates that the metal has been
> overheated and weakened.  Your rods were clearly heated this much when
> the pistons were pressed on.  My concern is that if the rods have been
> weakened at the pin end, a catastrophic failure could result later.  If
> I am wrong then no harm done - I think Milton and others on the list are
> better at the mechanics of materials stuff than I, and it would be far
> better to broach this question now rather than after the engine were
> trashed.
>
> Sorry if I'm being an alarmist for nothing, but I would at least ask the
> question if it were my engine!
>
> Michael Ecker
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:57:51 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: what is "the right price"?

At 12:49 PM 05/17/2004 -0400, Fred wrote:
>I don't think your prices are out of line ($3,500.00 is a real
>bargain IMO).  You are selling an antique / special interest car, not a two
>year old Camry.  What you need is a serious buyer who has the $$$, space and
>time.  I hate to tell you to be patient, but that is the secret to selling a
>car like this without taking a bath on the deal.

While I agree wholeheartedly with Fred, this does put John between the
proverbial rock and hard place.

The storage is getting pricey.... if I recall right, John, you're in
Brooklyn?  If so, storage is big $$$$ in its own right, which means the few
months he waits might well devour any and all money he gets from the car.

It's a rotten position to be in...... and with my still underemployed
status, I can't consider the car yet, either!


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:58:18 -0400
From: jkopf@optonline.net
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

=3CBODY=3E=3CP=3E=3C/P=3E
=3CP=3E=3CB=3EBlue smoke when letting off the gas is oil=2E Common causes=
 would be valve guides or valve seals=2E When you let off the gas the vac=
ume on the intake side goes way up and cam suck more oil past the seals a=
nd guides=2E=3C/B=3E=3C/P=3E
=3CP=3E=3CB=3E=3C/B=3E=26nbsp=3B=3C/P=3E
=3CP=3E=3CB=3E----- Original Message -----=3C/B=3E=3C/P=3E
=3CP=3E=3C/P=3E=3CB=3EFrom=3C/B=3E=3A Greg Beaulieu =26lt=3Bab348=40chebu=
cto=2Ens=2Eca=26gt=3B =

=3CP=3E=3C/P=3E=3CB=3EDate=3C/B=3E=3A Monday=2C May 17=2C 2004 9=3A23 pm =

=3CP=3E=3C/P=3E=3CB=3ESubject=3C/B=3E=3A UNBOUNCE=3A Blue smoke on Decele=
ration=3F=3F =

=3CP=3E=3C/P=3E
=3CP=3E=3C/P=3E=26gt=3B Not on the list=2C respond to apenello=40netwiz=2E=
net if you can assist=2E =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B Greg Beaulieu =
ab348=40chebucto=2Ens=2Eca Dartmouth=2C Nova Scotia=2C =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B C=
anada Olds List Admin Info=3A http=3A//oldslist=2Eoldsgmail=2Ecom =3CBR=3E=
=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B ---------- Forwarded message ---------- =3CBR=3E=
=26gt=3B From=3A Albert Penello =26lt=3Bapenello=40netwiz=2Enet=26gt=3B =3C=
BR=3E=26gt=3B Subject=3A Blue smoke on Deceleration=3F=3F =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B=
 =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B Hey everyone! =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B I=27m t=
rying to dial in my engine on my 1965 Olds 442 and I=E2=3F=3Fm =3CBR=3E=26=
gt=3B having a problem=2E =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B I have the or=
iginal 400 motor=2C which was recently freshened up =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B with=
 a new =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B cam=2C double-roller timing chain=2C headwork=2C =
roller-rockers and a new =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B Edelbrock intake manifold=2E =3C=
BR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B A few weeks ago I put in a Pertronix Ignit=
or II with Blaster II coil=2C =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B removed the resistance wir=
e and put in a 10deg vac advance can=2E I=E2=3F=3Fm =3CBR=3E
=26gt=3B running 10 deg initial=2C 36deg total mechanical plus the 10 deg=
 vacuum=2E =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B I=E2=3F=3Fve reduced the timing down and run =
with and without vacuum =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B advance and =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B I s=
till have the same problem=2E =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B The car r=
uns great at idle and accelerates cleanly=2E No smoke at idle=2C =3CBR=3E=
=26gt=3B startup=2C or acceleration=2E The problem is=2C when I let OFF t=
he gas=2C =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B I get =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B blue(ish) smoke out of =
the tailpipes=2E So if I do a WOT run and let =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B OFF the =3C=
BR=3E=26gt=3B gas=2C I get smoke=2E When I come off the freeway and start=
 to brake=2C =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B I get =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B blue smoke=2E =3CBR=3E=
=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B What could be the cause of this=3F I checked a =
couple of plugs and =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B they all =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B look fine=2E=
 Could it be timing related=3F =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B Any help=
 would be appreciated=2E =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B Thanks! =3CBR=3E=
=26gt=3B =3CBR=3E=26gt=3B =3C/BODY=3E

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:26:04 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Need Resto Shop, N.C. Area

- -------------------------------1084850764
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Language: en

In a message dated 5/17/2004 9:24:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
Not on the list, respond to jcraft@craftindustries.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "Jim Craft" <jcraft@craftindustries.com>
Subject: Shop to fix up '72 Cutlass Convertible

I have a 1972 Cutlass convertible that I would like to get restored or at
least where I can enjoy driving it.  It=E2=80=99s been in storage for 12 yea=
rs.
Minor damage to driver=E2=80=99s front end.  Looking for names to call of po=
ssible
shops in the North Carolina area.
Thanks for any help.
Jim Craft
P O Box 53
Farmville, NC 27828
jcraft@craftindustries.com
Ph 252 753-5600
  Call Jim Michael in Clemmons NC just outside Winston Salem 336-766-7845.=20
Great guy and loves the Oldsmobiles. The name of his shop is Classic Olds he=
=20
specializes in 1964-1987 Cutlass.

Everett  OCA# 1961    1961 Starfire

- -------------------------------1084850764
Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Language: en

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUTF-8 http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charse=
t=3DUTF-8">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 5/17/2004 9:24:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ab348@ch=
ebucto.ns.ca writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>Not on the list, respond to jcraft@craftindust=
ries.com if you can assist.<BR><BR>Greg Beaulieu&nbsp; &nbsp; ab348@chebucto=
.ns.ca&nbsp; &nbsp; Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &=
nbsp; &nbsp; Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com<BR><BR>----=
- ------ Forwarded message ----------<BR>From:&nbsp;&nbsp; "Jim Craft" &lt;jcr=
aft@craftindustries.com&gt;<BR>Subject: Shop to fix up '72 Cutlass Convertib=
le<BR><BR>I have a 1972 Cutlass convertible that I would like to get restore=
d or at<BR>least where I can enjoy driving it.&nbsp; It=E2=80=99s been in st=
orage for 12 years.<BR>Minor damage to driver=E2=80=99s front end.&nbsp; Loo=
king for names to call of possible<BR>shops in the North Carolina area.<BR>T=
hanks for any help.<BR>Jim Craft<BR>P O Box 53<BR>Farmville, NC 27828<BR>jcr=
aft@craftindustries.com<BR>Ph 252 753-5600</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp; Call Jim Michael in Clemmons NC just outside Winston Salem 336-7=
66-7845. Great guy and loves the Oldsmobiles. The name of his shop is Classi=
c Olds he specializes in 1964-1987 Cutlass.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Everett&nbsp; OCA# 1961&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 1961 Starfire</DIV></BODY></H=
TML>

- -------------------------------1084850764--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:37:49 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: 1964 Cutlass rear bumper needed

- -------------------------------1084851468
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a friend in bad need of a rear bumper core for a 64 Cutlass. He has 
bought 2 bumpers and both are for a station wagon.
Please can anyone help?? You can contact me and I will see he will get the 
message.

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

- -------------------------------1084851468
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I have a friend in bad need of a rear bumper core for a 64 Cutlass. He=20=
has bought 2 bumpers and both are for a station wagon.</DIV>
<DIV>Please can anyone help?? You can contact me and I will see he will get=20=
the message.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Everett&nbsp;&nbsp; OCA# 1961&nbsp;&nbsp; 1961 Starfire</DIV></BODY></H=
TML>

- -------------------------------1084851468--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 21:01:48 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Value of Mondello BB heads?

I have a chance to pick up mondello modified BB heads. They started out 
with C heads, got hardened seats, SS valves and come with mondello roller 
rockers and pushrods. Mileage about 20k. I assume they got the mondello 
porting which some of you guys don't care for, but I am postive it can't be 
BAD either.

Rebuilding a set of BB heads locally would set me back $400. I figure they 
are at least worth that. How much are the mondello roller rockers?

What would you pay for the set of parts?

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 21:31:13 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Fw: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: "Albert Penello" <apenello@netwiz.net>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??


> Albert
>
> > Subject: Blue smoke on Deceleration??
> > The problem is, when I let OFF the gas, I get
> > blue(ish) smoke out of the tailpipes. So if I do a WOT run and let OFF
the
> > gas, I get smoke. When I come off the freeway and start to brake, I get
> > blue smoke.
>
>
> Your problem is not timing. The problem is caused when the engine
> decelerates and creates a large vacuum draw in the cylinders. If the valve
> seals are bad or the valve guides loose, oil will be sucked down into the
> cylinders and burned, laying out a nice cloud of blue smoke.
>
> When your engine was "freshened," what was done to the heads? What kind of
> valve seals were used? Were the valve guides replaced?
>
> Milton
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 21:33:34 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Blue smoke on Deceleration??

Albert


> I had new valves and hardened valve seats installed. I'm not sure what
kinds
> of seals were used but everything was replaced.


4 questions. First, exactly how many miles are on the engine and heads since
they were done? Find out if bronze wall valve guides were installed? Find
out if stainless steel valves were used and if so, were the stems hard
chromed? Finally, were Perfect Circle type all-teflon valve seals used and
if not, what type of valve seals were used? All of this is important.

Milton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 21:45:17 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 1964 Cutlass rear bumper needed

Everett,

There should be 2 rear bumpers at a local you-pull-it in Tucson off of the
two '64 F-85 4-doors sitting there. Do you want me to check if they're still
there?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <S61starfir@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 8:37 PM
Subject: 1964 Cutlass rear bumper needed


> I have a friend in bad need of a rear bumper core for a 64 Cutlass. He has
> bought 2 bumpers and both are for a station wagon.
> Please can anyone help?? You can contact me and I will see he will get the
> message.
>
> Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4893
*********************************
