
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, April 10 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4851



Found a 66 330 today, Q4-ish coil pack, single 7a head
Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation
Re: test
Best place to tap 12v for Ignitor II?
1958 88 tripower Timeslips@4300pds
Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?
What 5k buys you these days ...
That ain't no BB! Is it?
Pressure Plate Surface Rust
trunk torque rods
Re: Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?
Re: What 5k buys you these days ...
Re: Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?
ref; cover plate
Re: trunk torque rods
Re: ref; cover plate
Re: What 5k buys you these days ...
Re: That ain't no BB! Is it?
Re: Pressure Plate Surface Rust
Re: ref; cover plate
Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation
Bumper Rechromers? & Link to Late Owner's Manuals
Re: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.
RE: ref; cover plate
Re: test
Back on the List
RE: ref; cover plate
Rebuild\Rebuilt
Re: 1958 88 tripower Timeslips@4300pds
Re: Tempus Fugit!
Pressure Plate Surface Rust
Re: That ain't no BB! Is it?
Re: Pressure Plate Surface Rust
Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation
RE: ref; cover plate
Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation
Re: That ain't no BB! Is it?
FIXED Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation
Toronado part needed ........
Re: FIXED Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 00:21:04 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Found a 66 330 today, Q4-ish coil pack, single 7a head

Hot damn!

Found a pretty nice 7a head today, not much else.

Was just about to leave [I find my best stuff that way]
Saw Olds engine, look see if it has a nice OP sender on it?
Can't tell, what's this, a #3 head, yeah, right, 8 maybe
Noper, #3

OUT SHE COMES!!!
Right into the truck.

tore down tonite, she was a total virgin, destroyed by neglect, probably run 
on 87 octane

pcs of rings and piston in the crankcase.

#3 heads unscathed
Virgin std/ std crank, AT only
Rods all OK
3 or 4 pistons with chunks missing, looks just like detonation damage.
Block [45* #1 block, F4 code] looks totally usable. No problems. Fough 
little tuckers!
Still had some of the nylon on the original timing sprocket
un-numbered rods
factory thin head gaskets
#6 4-bbl intake
Harmonic Damper- larger diameter per 4-bbl motor
Timing tab
All the usual small pcs.

Heh, found one of them coil packs like a Quad-4 uses, too, VERY NICE, but 
says "2.4 L" or similar on it.

Inquire within.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Tax headache? MSN Money provides relief with tax tips, tools, IRS forms and 
more! http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/workshop/welcome.asp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 23:04:14 -0700
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

On Fri, Apr 09, 2004 at 07:36:12PM -0500, Brian Ammons wrote:
> I foolishly took out the trunk lid torque rods for reasons I won't reveal
> here, and now cannot get them back in.
> 
> I have no '77-specific documentation save the chassis manual, which is no
> help.

I have the '77 body manual.  It says the tool to use for torque rods in a
Cutlass, 88, or 98 is a length of 1/2" i.d. heavy-wall (probably steel)
pipe.  It looks like you'd start with the lid propped fully open and the end
of the rod facing you.  Put the pipe on the end of the rod and use it to
twist the rod so that the end of the rod is pointing down, then hook the rod
into one of the adjusting notches.

(That's my rough translation of the manual's text: "To install, reverse
removal procedure."  If you want, I can scan the relevant pages (there are
three of them) and email them.  Send me email directly (not to the list) if
you're interested.)

  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
 / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
 \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 23:12:23 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: test

Brain,

I got the test with a blank message.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <Oldsmobile.-.Big.Mailing.List@ms-smtp-03-eri0.texas.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 6:00 PM
Subject: test


>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 23:10:00 -0700
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Best place to tap 12v for Ignitor II?

I upgraded my '65 442 distributor with the Pertronix Ignitor II module and
coil. Car runs fine, but the Pertronix tech support suggested a full 12v to
the coil would provide better performance.

Without chopping up my harness or running some unsightly wires - what's the
best place to tap a full 12v for the coil? 

Right now my setup has a 2-wire clip connected to the (+) side of the coil.
A Yellow/Black wire runs to the starter solenoid providing a full 12v at
startup. Attached to the same clip is an insulated light-pink resistance
wire that traces back to the fuse box - that appears to be getting only 4v
(which is low, I know)

Since I'm not sure what mechanism switches from the Yellow/Black 12v to the
Pink resistor wire, can I just *cut* the pink wire and use the full 12v from
the yellow/black wire? Is there something I'm not considering?

Again, I would like the install to be clean and easily repairable back to
stock. There has to be a nearby switched 12v source that I can tap into for
the coil.

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 02:33:54 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: 1958 88 tripower Timeslips@4300pds

Hello
Got 4 time slips from fri night street legals tonight,,,,sat.,sun will be bracket races.$
With a 371 stock cam tripower/342 posi rear@4300pds
Tonights slips read-16.099....16.054...16.033....16.117.
Notice they got faster till the last pass...i was getting more up on the rpm before launch...last pass i spun the 275-60 15 bfg dragradials.
Not doin a burn out(to heat tires) to save tranny(only thang not rebuilt).
Best 60ft was 2.300
I believe with a tighter tranny(quicker shift)she would be in the 15s easy.
Sure was a ton o fun!
And ya shoulda seen how many ole farts drooled over my car :)
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 00:43:46 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?

List:

After listening to the V8 for three years now, I'd like to get some music 
into the Cutlass. Seems like custom autosound is the way to go, the radio 
fits the stock location and looks plain enough that it does not become the 
target of stupid stereo fixated kids.

http://www.customautosound.com/

Looks like they have two radio models that talk to CD changers. Do I HAVE 
to buy their CD changer, or can I buy the CD changer elsewhere (read: cheaper).

Finally, where did you buy your custom autosound radio? Year one is about 
the most expensive place to get it at. Any other optioins?

Thanks!

George
71 c/s rag. no beat
71 442 (broken 8 track)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 01:53:49 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: What 5k buys you these days ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&rd=1&item=2472457532&category=6405

So much for the 70-72 cutlass ragtops being 5k cars. :) Man, people are 
masochists! I hope Chris' car looked better than this! ;)

Cheers,

George
BEAUTIFUL 71 C/S ragtop (at least compared to that ebay heap!)
Still better looking 71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 02:00:55 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: That ain't no BB! Is it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2472450166&category=15287

What a clone this thing is. Two 442 emblems and shaving the supreme chrome 
did it!

Cheers, George
71 442 (not a clone)
71 c/s (could clone it, take two badges off the 442?)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 04:02:52 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: Pressure Plate Surface Rust

All,
	I have been inspecting drive train parts on the '70 preparing it for
the reassembly process.  I noticed that the brand new used for 1/2 hour MAX,
has a bit of surface rust on it.
	What would be the best way to clean it?

I have to be careful, as it's part of the balanced assembly.

Thanks!


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 05:40:24 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: trunk torque rods

Brian
    You messed up huh? Taking out torque rods is always a mistake.
the 76 fisher body manual says use tool J-23722. You will probably have 
to fabricate this thing. I can scan and send you a picture of this if it 
will help
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 08:11:17 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?

George....my husband bought my stereo and speakers for my Cutty last yr for
my b-day....Great guy aint he!!!

He got them at radio shack and installed them himself....I helped with the
speakers. If you want I have a pic. of what the raio looks like. The radio
as a CD player. The face of the radio comes off. Its a real nice stereo
system.


Tami

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 08:13:02 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: What 5k buys you these days ...

Man Oh man...I would have thought you would have gotten a little bit nicer
car for 5K's!!!!

I'm sure someone will buy it.....I'd give him 2500.00!!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 08:20:07 -0400
From: "Stephen Bicker" <sbicker@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?

I just got and installed a custom auto sound system in the 67 442 I am
finishing. It is the USA 5 with the 10 disc changer. I also installed there
speakers that fit in the stock locations. Not the greatest sound but for
crusing should be just fine. I bought mine at In Demand Auto Parts in
Arizona they seem to be the cheapest. It took a couple of weeks to get. This
was the only thing I could find so I would not have to cut up the dash. Hope
this helps

Steve Bicker
67 442,67 442 (project X)
70 442, 73 442
70 Cutlass Race
http://66.67.15.102
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 3:43 AM
Subject: Custom Autosound radio combined with generic CD changer?


> List:
>
> After listening to the V8 for three years now, I'd like to get some music
> into the Cutlass. Seems like custom autosound is the way to go, the radio
> fits the stock location and looks plain enough that it does not become the
> target of stupid stereo fixated kids.
>
> http://www.customautosound.com/
>
> Looks like they have two radio models that talk to CD changers. Do I HAVE
> to buy their CD changer, or can I buy the CD changer elsewhere (read:
cheaper).
>
> Finally, where did you buy your custom autosound radio? Year one is about
> the most expensive place to get it at. Any other optioins?
>
> Thanks!
>
> George
> 71 c/s rag. no beat
> 71 442 (broken 8 track)
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 08:33:11 -0400
From: "Ron Miller" <mwauto@nb.net>
Subject: ref; cover plate

The cover plate Mr. Nasta is trying to figure out I believe is the cover
that goes beneath the steering column to protect the throttle linkage.
I did not remove this plate , it was with the car when it was brought in to
the shop.as well as other objects in the same nature.

mwauto@nb.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 09:15:29 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: trunk torque rods

  all i ever used was a 3/8 drive socket i think 7/16 and a long 3/8 extension it has enough
leverage to lift and release or lock trunk rod in or out of place
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
  To: "olds list" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 5:40 AM
  Subject: trunk torque rods


  > Brian
  >     You messed up huh? Taking out torque rods is always a mistake.
  > the 76 fisher body manual says use tool J-23722. You will probably have
  > to fabricate this thing. I can scan and send you a picture of this if it
  > will help
  > John Kelsey
  > Dayton Ohio
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 10:28:02 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: ref; cover plate

Throttle linkage beneath the steering column ?????
I thought the throttle "cable" went right out the firewall
behind the gas pedal .............

The General

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Miller" <mwauto@nb.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 8:33 AM
Subject: ref; cover plate


> The cover plate Mr. Nasta is trying to figure out I believe is the cover
> that goes beneath the steering column to protect the throttle linkage.
> I did not remove this plate , it was with the car when it was brought in
to
> the shop.as well as other objects in the same nature.
>
> mwauto@nb.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 11:10:44 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: What 5k buys you these days ...

And there's still a little over a day left.

Sheesh.... I still prowl ebay for cars sometimes, but given what people
seem to pay, I wonder why I bother.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

At 01:53 AM 04/10/2004 -0700, George wrote:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&rd=1&item
=2472457532&category=6405
>
>So much for the 70-72 cutlass ragtops being 5k cars. :) Man, people are 
>masochists! I hope Chris' car looked better than this! ;)
>
>Cheers,
>
>George
>BEAUTIFUL 71 C/S ragtop (at least compared to that ebay heap!)
>Still better looking 71 442
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 09:53:29 -0500
From: "jbschuren" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: That ain't no BB! Is it?

nope... looks like the 350 rocket....

Do 442 "clones" really fetch that much???

JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 4:00 AM
Subject: That ain't no BB! Is it?


>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2472450166&category=15287
>
> What a clone this thing is. Two 442 emblems and shaving the supreme chrome
> did it!
>
> Cheers, George
> 71 442 (not a clone)
> 71 c/s (could clone it, take two badges off the 442?)
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:05:59 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure Plate Surface Rust

At 04:02 AM 4/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>All,
>	I have been inspecting drive train parts on the '70 preparing it for
>the reassembly process.  I noticed that the brand new used for 1/2 hour MAX,
>has a bit of surface rust on it.
>	What would be the best way to clean it?
>
>I have to be careful, as it's part of the balanced assembly.

Sandpaper. Any sanding marks will disappear soon after you begin driving it
again.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:09:24 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: ref; cover plate

At 08:33 AM 4/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>The cover plate Mr. Nasta is trying to figure out I believe is the cover
>that goes beneath the steering column to protect the throttle linkage.
>I did not remove this plate , it was with the car when it was brought in to
>the shop.as well as other objects in the same nature.
>
>mwauto@nb.net

So, the question is: Why didn't you reinstall it properly??

And further, where are all his other parts?? And why weren't THEY
reinstalled properly??

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 08:34:45 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

Scott & others - 

The issue is that when installed with no load on it, the end of of the
torque rod (the part that hooks) faces the front of the car.  There's not
enough room to put a pipe of any appreciable length onto the torque rod, as
there's no room to spin it without the "handle" end of the pipe getting
caught on the top inboard edge of the wheelwell.

I really still feel that I don't have them switched or anything like that -
they're color coded, the hook with the red paint is still behind the
driver...and there's red paint left on the hook, so I don't think I was
hallucinating.

The pipe would clearly be ok for adjusting the rod - but not for twisting
it around 180 degrees along it's axis.

At 11:04 PM 04/09/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>On Fri, Apr 09, 2004 at 07:36:12PM -0500, Brian Ammons wrote:
>> I foolishly took out the trunk lid torque rods for reasons I won't reveal
>> here, and now cannot get them back in.
>> 
>> I have no '77-specific documentation save the chassis manual, which is no
>> help.
>
>I have the '77 body manual.  It says the tool to use for torque rods in a
>Cutlass, 88, or 98 is a length of 1/2" i.d. heavy-wall (probably steel)
>pipe.  It looks like you'd start with the lid propped fully open and the end
>of the rod facing you.  Put the pipe on the end of the rod and use it to
>twist the rod so that the end of the rod is pointing down, then hook the rod
>into one of the adjusting notches.
>
>(That's my rough translation of the manual's text: "To install, reverse
>removal procedure."  If you want, I can scan the relevant pages (there are
>three of them) and email them.  Send me email directly (not to the list) if
>you're interested.)
>
>  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
> / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
> \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on
Usenet?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:22:33 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Bumper Rechromers? & Link to Late Owner's Manuals

Folks on another reflector I'm on are looking for both suppliers of new
A/G-body bumpers and rechromers. The Bumper Boyz have been mentioned but I
recall there's at least two others with much better reputations; can't
rember who, tho.

So who has done good jobs of rechroming bumpers for us?

This link to 1993-2004 GM owner's manuals was published on that other
reflector the other day:
http://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2content/manual/US/en/

I'm wondering about copyright violations for putting those on the web but
have never seen any copyright notices in the CSMs. Haven't looked in the
owner's manuals.

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 08:51:12 -0700
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: Wipers broke, Vac. or Elec.

>In a message dated 4/9/2004 1:32:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>tjosvold@polar7.com writes:
>Get the wiper kit from Nuport
>
>Do they have a Website?


Whoops... I spelled the name wrong. I couldn't find a website for them 
directly (I think they only wholesale), but you can find a number of 
outlets that handle them by going to google and searching on "newport 
engineering wipers".

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 12:03:13 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: ref; cover plate

I'll test that theory, but I don't think that's where it goes or what it's
for. According to Steve & Dave, it's supposed to be inside the quarter panel
to protect the fuel filler tube. That seems more likely to me. I'll have to
look at some other El Caminos this summer. In the meantime, I'll just hold
onto it.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Ron Miller
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 8:33 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: ref; cover plate

The cover plate Mr. Nasta is trying to figure out I believe is the cover
that goes beneath the steering column to protect the throttle linkage.
I did not remove this plate , it was with the car when it was brought in to
the shop.as well as other objects in the same nature.

mwauto@nb.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 09:24:45 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: test

And I got this, but not the original (my) post.  I sent it after the "trunk
rods" message (which I do see), along with two replies to that message.

Do-do-do-do-do-do-do-do-do-do-do

Thanks Milton

At 11:12 PM 04/09/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Brain,
>
>I got the test with a blank message.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>To: <Oldsmobile.-.Big.Mailing.List@ms-smtp-03-eri0.texas.rr.com>
>Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 6:00 PM
>Subject: test
>
>
>>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 12:32:29 -0400
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
Subject: Back on the List

Hi Folks,
I've been away from the list for a couple of years for lots of reasons, but
I'm happy to be back on.  I own a 71 442 convertible, which I've had for
about 5 years now -- frame-off restored and Viking blue with pearl.  I've
recently bought my first "big car" and will be watching for discussions
about those.  My '75 Delta 88 Royale convertible with 19K miles is now in
Oregon, and I need to get it to Massachusetts.

Any recommendations on carriers I should or should not use?  I have several
quotes, all in the $1100 range, but I don't know anything about any of them.
Any tips would sure be appreciated.

Thanks.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 12:50:26 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: ref; cover plate

Thanks Steve, but Greg does not want this to be an on-list argument.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 09:56:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Rebuild\Rebuilt

- --0-39530962-1081616188=:49558
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I put a used power steering gear box on the 67 88 last year and now it's a leaking like the original (which I still have)  Has anyone on the list rebuilt their own? I have never done one, But then I never rebuilt an engine before the 425. Its been 3 1/2 years and still running. (I love my shop manual). Just a wondering if someone had some personal experience rebuilding one. Also going to replace the power steering pump and hoses. Figure It all should be done at same time. Power steering pump with or without reservoir? Don't have a spare to mess with, any problems there, on swapping the resevoir?
 
Bill G
67 Delta 88 Custom
87 Custom Wagon (not quite running yet)


- --0-39530962-1081616188=:49558
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>I put a used power steering gear box on the 67 88 last year and now it's a leaking like the original (which I still have)&nbsp; Has anyone on the list rebuilt their own? I have never done one,&nbsp;But then I never rebuilt an engine before the 425. Its been 3 1/2&nbsp;years and still running. (I love my shop manual). Just a wondering if someone had some personal experience rebuilding one. Also going to replace the power steering pump and hoses. Figure It all should be done at same time. Power steering pump with or without reservoir? Don't have a spare to mess with, any problems there, on swapping the resevoir?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bill G</DIV>
<DIV>67 Delta 88 Custom</DIV>
<DIV>87 Custom Wagon (not quite running yet)</DIV></DIV>
- --0-39530962-1081616188=:49558--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 09:34:44 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 1958 88 tripower Timeslips@4300pds

Randy,

Call B&M and see if they know anyone who is building the equivalent of the
old B&M Hydro-Stick. With the increasing popularity of the nostalgia drags,
I would think someone would do that. A Hydro-Stick would instantly solve the
transmission lack of quickness problem.

Your baby also needs headers.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Hermsen" <Cutlass7276@netscape.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 11:33 PM
Subject: 1958 88 tripower Timeslips@4300pds


> Hello
> Got 4 time slips from fri night street legals tonight,,,,sat.,sun will be
bracket races.$
> With a 371 stock cam tripower/342 posi rear@4300pds
> Tonights slips read-16.099....16.054...16.033....16.117.
> Notice they got faster till the last pass...i was getting more up on the
rpm before launch...last pass i spun the 275-60 15 bfg dragradials.
> Not doin a burn out(to heat tires) to save tranny(only thang not rebuilt).
> Best 60ft was 2.300
> I believe with a tighter tranny(quicker shift)she would be in the 15s
easy.
> Sure was a ton o fun!
> And ya shoulda seen how many ole farts drooled over my car :)
> Randy H.
> Maple Ridge B.C.
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service.
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>
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> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 13:31:29 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tempus Fugit!

> > > Tempus Fugit!
> >
> > John, what's the point of cursing like that here in this forum?! There
> > might be kids reading this stuff!
>
>I guess ya'll were asleep in Latin class?
==============
Surely you saw the :-) at the bottom
I can't imagine any of y'all coming up with a phrase I have not heard 
already....
Hell, I even know dialects, like the plural of "y'all"..

Sounds like a F-word assault on the Pontiac Tempest, at first glance, 
mispronounced per English pronunciation.

As I recall, it means "time flies"
Of course most of us know the usual common bits -n- pcs
Though I do not even recal a class in Latin offered at my high school...

Caveat emptor [e.g. the '69 H/O with NUMBERS MATCHING MOTOR!!!!!]
E pluribus unum
Fiat Lux
Q.E.D.
et cetera
et al

Every so often, I peruse the "foreign phrases" section at the back of my 
dictionary, looking for fun stuff, like "It is [true] art to conceal art." I 
think that one is "ars est celare artem" Sort of the opposite of the "Loud = 
Fast" mentality, when applied to autos.

Then there's "the king is dead; long live the king!"...
Omnia vincit amor...
"if youth only knew, if age only could"...

and my favorite:
si vis pacem, para bellum!
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Multiple plans available. 
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 12:27:31 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: Pressure Plate Surface Rust

All,
	I have been inspecting drive train parts on the '70 preparing it for
the reassembly process.  I noticed that the brand new used for 1/2 hour MAX,
has a bit of surface rust on it.
	What would be the best way to clean it?

I have to be careful, as it's part of the balanced assembly.

Thanks!


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode)
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine)
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com/html/cars.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 11:43:17 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: That ain't no BB! Is it?

>nope... looks like the 350 rocket....
>
>Do 442 "clones" really fetch that much???

On these auctions, you never know if the high bidder follows through. But I 
guess ebay really helps through sheer statistics, to find the biggest fool 
that will pay the most.

I also think that these cars have gone up in value considerably, since I 
stared fiddling with them 6+ years ago. All across the muscle car era that 
is, so the oldses went right with it.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 18:45:17 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure Plate Surface Rust

At 12:27 PM 4/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>All,
>	I have been inspecting drive train parts on the '70 preparing it for
>the reassembly process.  I noticed that the brand new used for 1/2 hour MAX,
>has a bit of surface rust on it.
>	What would be the best way to clean it?
>
>I have to be careful, as it's part of the balanced assembly.

Sandpaper. Any sanding marks will disappear soon after you begin driving it
again.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 18:40:46 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

At 08:34 AM 4/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>The pipe would clearly be ok for adjusting the rod - but not for twisting
>it around 180 degrees along it's axis.

If all else fails, try a pair of vise grips on the rod near the end before
where it hooks in ==========8-O

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 18:39:17 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: ref; cover plate

At 12:03 PM 4/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I'll test that theory, but I don't think that's where it goes or what it's
>for. According to Steve & Dave, it's supposed to be inside the quarter panel
>to protect the fuel filler tube.

Actually, I *don't* know for sure that's what it's really for; it just
looks similar to the plate in my '83 M*libu but might well be for something
else, such as a starter shield. I don't have an early Illustration Manual
so I dunno.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:10:00 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

  another trick is vise grips the long  pair will also work. 
  it takes some effort  but it has never been a major task.
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 9:34 AM
  Subject: Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation


  > Scott & others - 
  > 
  > The issue is that when installed with no load on it, the end of of the
  > torque rod (the part that hooks) faces the front of the car.  There's not
  > enough room to put a pipe of any appreciable length onto the torque rod, as
  > there's no room to spin it without the "handle" end of the pipe getting
  > caught on the top inboard edge of the wheelwell.
  > 
  > I really still feel that I don't have them switched or anything like that -
  > they're color coded, the hook with the red paint is still behind the
  > driver...and there's red paint left on the hook, so I don't think I was
  > hallucinating.
  > 
  > The pipe would clearly be ok for adjusting the rod - but not for twisting
  > it around 180 degrees along it's axis.
  > 
  > At 11:04 PM 04/09/2004 -0700, you wrote:
  > >On Fri, Apr 09, 2004 at 07:36:12PM -0500, Brian Ammons wrote:
  > >> I foolishly took out the trunk lid torque rods for reasons I won't reveal
  > >> here, and now cannot get them back in.
  > >> 
  > >> I have no '77-specific documentation save the chassis manual, which is no
  > >> help.
  > >
  > >I have the '77 body manual.  It says the tool to use for torque rods in a
  > >Cutlass, 88, or 98 is a length of 1/2" i.d. heavy-wall (probably steel)
  > >pipe.  It looks like you'd start with the lid propped fully open and the end
  > >of the rod facing you.  Put the pipe on the end of the rod and use it to
  > >twist the rod so that the end of the rod is pointing down, then hook the rod
  > >into one of the adjusting notches.
  > >
  > >(That's my rough translation of the manual's text: "To install, reverse
  > >removal procedure."  If you want, I can scan the relevant pages (there are
  > >three of them) and email them.  Send me email directly (not to the list) if
  > >you're interested.)
  > >
  > >  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
  > > / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
  > >(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
  > > \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on
  > Usenet?
  > > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 11:12:34 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: That ain't no BB! Is it?

I love how the clone is "absolutely beautiful and correct."

What, exactly, defines a "correct" clone?!

	- Joe Vahabzadeh


At 02:00 AM 04/10/2004 -0700, George wrote:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=24724501
66&category=15287
>
>What a clone this thing is. Two 442 emblems and shaving the supreme chrome 
>did it!
>
>Cheers, George
>71 442 (not a clone)
>71 c/s (could clone it, take two badges off the 442?)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 13:51:31 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: FIXED Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

did not actually have it put together properly - the outboard end of the
rod's "hinge hook" (the u-shaped end of the torque rod) doesn't ride in a
circular hole, it rides in an oblong hole.  Goes together MUCH better (and
much easier, ie at all) when that's correct.

The friend who helped me used two pipe wrenches to install the torque rods
once they were hooked onto the hinge - used one wrench to move it half the
distance, rest pipe wrench against wheelhouse, go in with second wrench and
turn the remainder of the distance necessary to hook it into place

what a nightmare - i'll never do that again

thanks for the assistance

At 03:10 PM 04/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>  another trick is vise grips the long  pair will also work. 
>  it takes some effort  but it has never been a major task.
>  ron
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: "Brian Ammons" <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>  Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 9:34 AM
>  Subject: Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation
>
>
>  > Scott & others - 
>  > 
>  > The issue is that when installed with no load on it, the end of of the
>  > torque rod (the part that hooks) faces the front of the car.  There's not
>  > enough room to put a pipe of any appreciable length onto the torque
rod, as
>  > there's no room to spin it without the "handle" end of the pipe getting
>  > caught on the top inboard edge of the wheelwell.
>  > 
>  > I really still feel that I don't have them switched or anything like
that -
>  > they're color coded, the hook with the red paint is still behind the
>  > driver...and there's red paint left on the hook, so I don't think I was
>  > hallucinating.
>  > 
>  > The pipe would clearly be ok for adjusting the rod - but not for twisting
>  > it around 180 degrees along it's axis.
>  > 
>  > At 11:04 PM 04/09/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>  > >On Fri, Apr 09, 2004 at 07:36:12PM -0500, Brian Ammons wrote:
>  > >> I foolishly took out the trunk lid torque rods for reasons I won't
reveal
>  > >> here, and now cannot get them back in.
>  > >> 
>  > >> I have no '77-specific documentation save the chassis manual, which
is no
>  > >> help.
>  > >
>  > >I have the '77 body manual.  It says the tool to use for torque rods
in a
>  > >Cutlass, 88, or 98 is a length of 1/2" i.d. heavy-wall (probably steel)
>  > >pipe.  It looks like you'd start with the lid propped fully open and
the end
>  > >of the rod facing you.  Put the pipe on the end of the rod and use it to
>  > >twist the rod so that the end of the rod is pointing down, then hook
the rod
>  > >into one of the adjusting notches.
>  > >
>  > >(That's my rough translation of the manual's text: "To install, reverse
>  > >removal procedure."  If you want, I can scan the relevant pages
(there are
>  > >three of them) and email them.  Send me email directly (not to the
list) if
>  > >you're interested.)
>  > >
>  > >  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
>  > > / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>  > >(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
>  > > \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on
>  > Usenet?
>  > > 
>  > 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 18:06:07 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Toronado part needed ........

Hey List,

        Can someone post this to the Toro list ???
I need an axle shaft nut for a pre 78'. This is actually for
a 75 Eldorado. The end of the axle snapped off and away
went the nut. The replacement shaft has no nut.

Tanks,
The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 18:09:59 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FIXED Re: '77 trunk lid torque rod installation

> did not actually have it put together properly - the outboard end of the
> rod's "hinge hook" (the u-shaped end of the torque rod) doesn't ride in a
> circular hole, it rides in an oblong hole.  Goes together MUCH better (and
> much easier, ie at all) when that's correct.

- ---------------

Glad you figured it out.  I was about to tell you that you pretty much had
to
have them installed incorrectly when your message came through.  If you put
them back in the right place, the job isn't too bad.  If you don't it is a
different story.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4851
*********************************
