
oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, April 14 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4855



Re: Holley Power Valves
Re: Garage Needed
Front Spring Removal
RE: Limited Slip "S" spring
wiper switches
'67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
compression on a 1970 e head 455
RE: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
waxes.... was Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
RE: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
RE: Rebuild\Rebuilt
Re: compression on a 1970 e head 455
Olds Hockey Bandwagon
Re: compression on a 1970 e head 455
Early engines (330 and 425) for sale
Re: compression on a 1970 e head 455
Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
Re: waxes.... was Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
Re: Holley Power Valves
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #4852
68 400 stock rings
Re: Holley Power Valves
Re: Fron end rebuild
RE: Front Spring Removal
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #4854
Re: Olds Hockey Bandwagon
Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
Automatic to Manual transmission conversion kits
Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
digest missing?
Re: Holley Power Valves
Re: Holley Power Valves

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 13:29:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

- --- JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
Yes. I think the kit was about $10. It's best to use
a drill press and mark 
the spot exactly.It's a spring-loaded ball bearing
the presses against the 
power valve. So far, I haven't had any trouble since
the install.

*********************

Which brand kit did you use?

=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 18:05:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Amadei <stephen@amadei.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Needed

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Christian Sager wrote:

> So the time has come to move out of my parent's house.  I live in
> Glastonbury, CT and have a '71 Chevelle SS 454 sitting in the garage a
> long way from running.
>
> I'm looking for a dry place to store the car for as long as 2 years.
> The car rolls but does not run (no engine in it).
>
> If anyone knows any good resources in this area other than self storage
> places (they are an option but an expensive one) please let me know.
>
> I just can't bear to let my baby go.  I'm sure it's financially stupid
> to store it, but it's about my only option other than selling it right
> now.

I'm trying to put a big garage up sometime soon.  Help me put it up and
you can have free storage for two years.  ;-)  Might be a little far away
though.

Seriously, as soon as I find financing and permits, I'm trying to get a
50x150 or a 70x100.  Right now, I have storage, but it's not particularly
dry... it's the great outdoors.  I need to get my projects into a nice dry
place...

					----Steve
Stephen Amadei
Dandy.NET!  CTO/CSO
Atlantic City, NJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 19:23:15 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Front Spring Removal

I've witnessed (never done myself) this twice in my life and I think
neither was the OSHA-approved method.

First time was with car on stands, jack under lower control arm. Removed
all the hardware holding everything together, then slowly released
(stop/start) jack until spring tension separated spindle, etc, from
assembly and spring came out. Didn't like this much - too many things to
go wrong.

Second method was even worse. Car was up on a hoist. Mechanic #1 lowered
car until lower control arm was resting on shoulder of mechanic #2, a
large football-lineman type. He then unfastened appropriate bolts and
advised #2 to lower himself slowly. It worked, spring clattered to shop
floor, but I'd hate to think of the results had it gone wrong. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 15:24:58 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Limited Slip "S" spring

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Schopen, Kenneth 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 9:41 AM
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: Limited Slip "S" spring
> 
> 
> I might have asked this question before, but I can't remember 
> for sure, and if I did, I don't remember the answer. 
> 
> So, here it is: does anyone know where I can get a 
> heavier-than-stock "S" spring for a limited slip unit? 
> I read somewhere that the factory spring is 200 lb. tension, 
> but there are heavier 300, 400, and 600 lb. replacements 
> available. The problem is that I can't remember who carries them.
> 
> If anyone knows where I can get one, please let me know. I 
> want to get the 3.42 rear completed and put on the car before 
> summer hits with its full-force 110+ temperatures.
> 
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
> 

Well, I never got a reply from The List, so I guess that means no one 
here knows about this (or just didn't care to respond). I got several 
replies from the fellas on realoldspower.com, so I thought I'd share 
what I learned:

The factory "S" spring is indeed 200 pound tension, and there is a 300 
pound tension replacement available. The 400 and 600 pound tension springs 
I remembered were for the C-type 12 bolt that uses a plate and four coil 
springs. Nothing greater than 300 pounds is available in the "S" spring. 
I contacted John Stolpa at Rocket Racing Performance at the recommendation 
of several ROP members, and purchased a 300 pound "S" spring for $12.99. 
He shipped it out the same day and said it should be on my doorstep in 3-4 
days. So far I am highly pleased with my transaction with Rocket Racing 
Performance and would highly recommend them.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 20:03:41 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: wiper switches

Hi All
     I need a wiper/washer switch for my 70 toro. There are several that 
might be it on e-bay but I need the part number to be sure. Also there 
is a switch number 14080668 That looks like it might be a pulse type 
wiper switch for my 76 toro can anyone enlighten me on this?
thanks
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 00:31:03 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers

OK gang, have had a chance to get home and look at my '67 specs book.

While the '67 F-85 V-8s and standard Cutlasses did come standard with the 2bbl, 250hp Jetfire Rocket V8, the 310hp 4bbl reg. compression and 320hp 4bbl high compression engines were both optional at $33.70.

All Cutlass Supremes/4-4-2s were 4bbl equipped except if the optional Turnpike Cruiser Package was specified - in which case it had 2bbl.

So that blows a hole in the 2bbl/dual light vs. 4bbl/quad light theory on both models.

And whoever made the original statement about the 4-4-2 Performance Package only being available on the Supremes was right on the money.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 20:33:35 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

Has anybody tried Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash? Sounds like a good idea given
that it's the wiping (especially dry-wiping) that causes those "spider web"
scratches in clear coat. I assume it needs to be followed by paint cleaner,
wax, etc. When I had my black Saab (a.k.a. Black Saabath), I sued to use all
the Meguiars stuff and always thought that it worked great Neither of my old
cars have ever had a paint job worth worrying too much about, but I am going
to want to give my new car its firs wash/wax pretty soon.

John Nasta

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 21:03:03 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: compression on a 1970 e head 455

- --part1_1ce.1e933e2f.2dade7c7_boundary
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 could anyone tell me what kind of compression reading i would get on my 455?
 i have checked 3  cylinders and  the readings were around 149 on my meter. 
is this good?
 thanx
 jim

- --part1_1ce.1e933e2f.2dade7c7_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"> could anyone tell me what kind of=20=
compression reading i would get on my 455?<BR>
 i have checked 3&nbsp; cylinders and&nbsp; the readings were around 149 on=20=
my meter. is this good?<BR>
 thanx<BR>
 jim</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1ce.1e933e2f.2dade7c7_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 21:51:05 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers

And the Turnpike Cruiser option was only available on the CS Holiday Coupe.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

<snip>

And whoever made the original statement about the 4-4-2 Performance Package
only being available on the Supremes was right on the money.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 21:05:17 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: waxes.... was Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

never used it, but speaking of waxes....
I like mequiars allot, makes the cleatcoat base coat on my cutty (and truck)
look excellent.
I use cleaner wax followed by black gold.

I've also heard AMAZING stories about a product named ziano
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

I think I'll give this a shot after I run out of my current supply.

JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
To: "Olds Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; "Chevelle List"
<chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:33 PM
Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash


> Has anybody tried Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash? Sounds like a good idea
given
> that it's the wiping (especially dry-wiping) that causes those "spider
web"
> scratches in clear coat. I assume it needs to be followed by paint
cleaner,
> wax, etc. When I had my black Saab (a.k.a. Black Saabath), I sued to use
all
> the Meguiars stuff and always thought that it worked great Neither of my
old
> cars have ever had a paint job worth worrying too much about, but I am
going
> to want to give my new car its firs wash/wax pretty soon.
>
> John Nasta
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 22:20:02 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers

That's fairly common knowledge to those of us who know the '66 and '67s.
And for the record, '66 was the year that that 442 option was available on
the most models, 5:
F-85 Club Coupe (post)
F-85 Deluxe (hardtop)
Cutlass Sport Coupe (post)
Cutlass Holiday Coupe (hardtop)
Cutlass Convertible

'66 was also the first year for the Cutlass Supreme and it was a 4-dr
hardtop (only!)

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
> 62oldsfan@comcast.net
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:31 PM
> To: Oldsmobile Mailing List
> Subject: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
>
>
> OK gang, have had a chance to get home and look at my '67 specs book.
>
> While the '67 F-85 V-8s and standard Cutlasses did come standard
> with the 2bbl, 250hp Jetfire Rocket V8, the 310hp 4bbl reg.
> compression and 320hp 4bbl high compression engines were both
> optional at $33.70.
>
> All Cutlass Supremes/4-4-2s were 4bbl equipped except if the
> optional Turnpike Cruiser Package was specified - in which case
> it had 2bbl.
>
> So that blows a hole in the 2bbl/dual light vs. 4bbl/quad light
> theory on both models.
>
> And whoever made the original statement about the 4-4-2
> Performance Package only being available on the Supremes was
> right on the money.
>
> Paul
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 20:22:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Rebuild\Rebuilt

- --0-941389381-1081912936=:1159
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

John Kelsey suggested I find someone to rebuild my gear box, and that it can be a bear, I will do just that. I would of snipped your response in John, but it appears me mouse has partial paralysis set in. Does not want to copy, paste,undo, actualy anything to do with the right click. The recirculating balls is the part that was making me a little nervous. thanks for sharing your experience.
 
Bill G
67 Delta 88 Custom
87 Custom Wagon (not quite running yet)


- --0-941389381-1081912936=:1159
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>John Kelsey suggested I find someone to rebuild my gear box, and that it can be a bear,&nbsp;I will do just that. I would of snipped your response in&nbsp;John, but it appears&nbsp;me mouse has partial paralysis&nbsp;set in. Does not want to copy, paste,undo, actualy anything to do with the right click. The recirculating balls is the part that was making me a little nervous. thanks for sharing your experience.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bill G</DIV>
<DIV>67 Delta 88 Custom</DIV>
<DIV>87 Custom Wagon (not quite running yet)</DIV></DIV>
- --0-941389381-1081912936=:1159--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 23:29:30 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: compression on a 1970 e head 455

At 09:03 PM 4/13/04 -0400, you wrote:
>could anyone tell me what kind of compression reading i would get on my 455?
>i have checked 3  cylinders and  the readings were around 149 on my meter. 
>is this good?

It depends on the compression and the cam, but that sounds about right. 
More important is that the readings are consistent across all cylinders, 
and do not change significantly if you squirt some oil in the cylinder.

It also makes a difference whether you check the engine warm or cold.

________________________________________
Bob Barry           mailto://rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 00:31:01 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Olds Hockey Bandwagon

Hello
I do believe some peeps are takin there Hockey a little serious!

 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1082595998113_0413_002.jpg 
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1081170432992_0413_001.jpg 
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.

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New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
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Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 23:26:18 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: compression on a 1970 e head 455

>It depends on the compression and the cam, but that sounds about right. 
>More important is that the readings are consistent across all cylinders, 
>and do not change significantly if you squirt some oil in the cylinder.
>
>It also makes a difference whether you check the engine warm or cold.

Bob is right on the money. They have to be within 10% of each other. The 
absolute value is completely unimportant and also depends on altitude / 
barometric pressure, the state of your starter and battery, outside 
temperature, etc.

So, off to do it again, all 8. :)

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 23:30:27 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Early engines (330 and 425) for sale

List:

Have a 66 330 complete from intake to oil pan, 72k miles. Never been apart. 
4bbl 310 hp ultra high compression.
Friend has a 65 425 apart, cleaned std. block, polished std/std forged 
crank, pistons, rods and a set of core A heads.

Both engines located in the SF bay. Can ship for right price. Also can 
deliver within reasonable distance. Can send pics. Make offer!

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 00:15:59 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: compression on a 1970 e head 455

For a stock 455, 150 psi is average and fine. However, a leakdown test would
give you more info.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 6:03 PM
Subject: compression on a 1970 e head 455


> could anyone tell me what kind of compression reading i would get on my
455?
>  i have checked 3  cylinders and  the readings were around 149 on my
meter.
> is this good?
>  thanx
>  jim
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 06:41:20 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

> Has anybody tried Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash?

Yes.  Works great.  I am in a hard water area, and I wonder what I ever did
without it.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 07:34:47 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: waxes.... was Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

> I've also heard AMAZING stories about a product named ziano
> http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
> 
> I think I'll give this a shot after I run out of my current supply.

It's the only thing I'll use now. Truly amazing.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 08:57:34 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

- -------------------------------1081947454
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

John,
I ordered the kit from Summit Racing. I believe it's made by Holley. Give 
them your Carb # and they will hook you up. BTW, in the kit they supply a drill 
bit and collar.

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

- -------------------------------1081947454
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>John,</DIV>
<DIV>I ordered the kit from Summit Racing. I believe it's made by Holley. Gi=
ve them your Carb # and they will hook you up. BTW, in the kit they supply a=
 drill bit and collar.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190=
 SL Conv.<BR>92 Eldo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081947454--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 09:36:26 EDT
From: DrivFast4U@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #4852

- -------------------------------1081949786
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In regards to qustion:

"What is the best way to wire a trunk mount battery? Is there are a benefit
if you wire in a Ford style relay intead of going right to the starter with
the main power cable. This is for a bb Olds of course"

I did this years ago. I used 2/0 welding cable. Ran it inside behind the seat 
and under the threshold plates. There is a small trough there with wires 
already in it with just enough room for a 2/0 cable. Your car may be different. 
Then through a grommeted hole in the firewall to a heavy duty "ford" style relay 
mounted on the fenderwell. Actually, it was a relay designed for continuous 
use on a power lift gate on a tractor trailer, but it looks just like a ford 
starter relay. These run about $50, but after melting 2 cheapy plastic relays 
because of a hot starting problem drawing too much juice for too long, I sprung 
for the continuous use unit, and have no problems with it. Then I used another 
2/0 cable down to the starter. Just remember to cross up the stock relay 
connection on the starter with starters main power connection. I used a copper end 
terminal for a 4 guage battery cable, pounded it flat and drilled another 
hole at the proper distance for the relay connection. Works great.

Eric
78 BB Omega

- -------------------------------1081949786
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">
<DIV>In regards to qustion:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>"What is the best way to wire a trunk mount battery? Is there are a ben=
efit<BR>if you wire in a Ford style relay intead of going right to the start=
er with<BR>the main power cable. This is for a bb Olds of course"</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I did this years ago. I used 2/0 welding cable. Ran it inside behind th=
e seat and under the threshold plates. There is a small trough there with wi=
res already in it with just enough room for a 2/0 cable.&nbsp;Your car may b=
e different. Then through a grommeted hole in the firewall to a heavy duty "=
ford" style relay mounted on the fenderwell. Actually, it was a relay design=
ed for continuous use&nbsp;on a power lift gate on a tractor trailer, but it=
 looks just like a ford starter relay. These run about $50, but after meltin=
g&nbsp;2 cheapy plastic relays because of a hot starting problem drawing too=
 much juice for too long, I sprung for the&nbsp;continuous use unit,&nbsp;an=
d have no problems with it.&nbsp;Then&nbsp;I used another 2/0 cable down to=20=
the starter. Just remember to cross up the stock relay connection on the sta=
rter with starters main power connection. I used a copper end terminal for a=
 4 guage battery cable, pounded it flat and drilled another hole at the prop=
er distance for the relay connection. Works great.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Eric</DIV>
<DIV>78&nbsp;BB Omega</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081949786--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:14:00 -0400
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: 68 400 stock rings

Good morning folks,

I am having trouble finding the stock rings for a 68 400 with no
overbore/stock bores.  Advanced Auto seems to be providing rings that are
too large, may be 30 over rings.  Any suggestions on where I can order the
correct stock rings?

Thanks!
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:31:25 -0400
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

Hey John,

If you mean this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D125%2D500

and this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SPE%2D2408

yes, they work.  I believe the 4150s they make now come with this feature
factory installed.

Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv.


>>>>

Has anybody had success with any of the "power valve
protection" kits out there?

I'd like to try running some Holleys on the street
again, if I could get the power valves to last!

=====
John Pajak
<<<<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:36:27 EDT
From: DrivFast4U@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fron end rebuild

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> Gents,
> 
> Just received my "super" front end rebuild kit from PST. Am 
> looking to get
> started on the 69 442 this weekend. Having never done this 
> before, anything
> in particular I should look out for? Any tips?
> 
> Thanks Ahead,

The spring compressor that goes up the middle is a must. If you don't try to 
grab to many coils at once, you will be able to more easily get the compressor 
off the spring, but you will have to grab enoough of the coils to keep the 
compressor from running out of threads on it's bolt. However, if you are not 
replacing the springs, just do one side of the car at a time, and leave the 
compressor on the spring, until you reinstall it.You don't have to compress the 
spring so far that it is loose in the suspension with the ball joints still 
attatched, just enough so when you disconnect the ball joints, remove the spindle 
and let the lower control arm down (with the jack you will have under it), that 
the spring is compresed enough to be removed. DO NOT under any cicumstances 
try to remove the compressor from the spring unless the spring tension has been 
relieved or  the spring has been reinstalled and the ball joint nuts have 
been tightend ! If you are going to cut the spring for lowering purposes, don't 
use a torch. It's very rewarding and satisfying to complete a front end 
rebuild. At least it was for me. Hope you have fun with this. Don't forget to have it 
aligned.

E. Eric
78 BB Omega

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<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">
<DIV><FONT face=3DHelvetica>&gt; Gents,<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Just received my "s=
uper" front end rebuild kit from PST. Am <BR>&gt; looking to get<BR>&gt; sta=
rted on the 69 442 this weekend. Having never done this <BR>&gt; before, any=
thing<BR>&gt; in particular I should look out for? Any tips?<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt=
; Thanks Ahead,</FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV>The spring compressor that goes up the middle is a must. If you don't t=
ry to grab to many coils at once,&nbsp;you will be able to more easily get t=
he compressor off the spring, but you will have to grab enoough of the coils=
 to keep the compressor from running out of threads on it's bolt.&nbsp;Howev=
er, if you are not replacing the springs, just do one side of the car at a t=
ime, and leave the compressor on the spring, until you reinstall it.You don'=
t have to compress the spring so far that it&nbsp;is loose in the suspension=
 with the ball joints still attatched, just enough so when you disconnect th=
e ball joints, remove the spindle and&nbsp;let the lower control arm down (w=
ith the jack you will have under it), that the spring is compresed enough to=
 be removed. DO NOT under any cicumstances try to remove the compressor from=
 the spring unless the spring tension has been relieved or&nbsp; the spring=20=
has been reinstalled and the ball joint nuts&nbsp;have been tightend&nbsp;!=20=
If you are going to cut the spring for lowering purposes, don't use a torch.=
 It's very rewarding and satisfying to complete a front end rebuild. At leas=
t it was for me. Hope you have fun with this. Don't forget to have it aligne=
d.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>E. Eric</DIV>
<DIV>78 BB Omega</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081953387--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 15:59:13 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Front Spring Removal

>First time was with car on stands, jack under lower control arm. Removed
>all the hardware holding everything together, then slowly released
>(stop/start) jack until spring tension separated spindle, etc, from
>assembly and spring came out. Didn't like this much - too many things to
>go wrong.

Actually this kind of practice is documented in service manuals to a certain 
extent (i.e. for certain conditions, using the proper tools, all sorts of 
Caution and Warning items in the text, etc.). The weight of the car and the 
potential energy stored in the springs can be used to your advantage. 
Supporting the car by its suspension or compressing the suspension using the 
car's own weight (i.e. as opposed to using a spring compressor) is sometimes 
directed in the manuals.

I don't think winging it such as:

1) LOCATE FORMER OFFENSIVE LINEMAN FOR LOCAL PROFESSIONAL FOOTBALL TEAM

2) INSTRUCT FOOTBALL PLAYER TO CROUCH UNDER VEHICLE AND STAND UP

...is one of the approved methods, however...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and 
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 12:34:17 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #4854

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:03:37 -0700
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Re: Olds Hockey Bandwagon

On Wed, Apr 14, 2004 at 12:31:01AM -0400, Randy Hermsen wrote:
> I do believe some peeps are takin there Hockey a little serious!
> 
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1082595998113_0413_002.jpg 
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1081170432992_0413_001.jpg 

There's something similar running around Las Vegas, only it's a different
sport (football), a different team (the Broncos), and an Olds wasn't harmed
to produce it (the "Broncomobile" is a Rustang, which I suppose is somewhat
appropriate).

  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
 / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
 \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 10:25:27 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?

Chris is right. How does a bare-bones '67 442 2-door F-85 sedan with no
other options and that rubber floor covering instead of carpets and with
radio and heater deletes sound? Sorry, that's bull saying that all '67 442s
were built from Cutlass Supremes.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Barry" <rbarry@providence.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?


> At 10:55 AM 4/13/2004, you wrote:
> >You're not doing well with this 67 Cutlass info here.
> >ALL 67 442's were built from Cutlass Supremes.
> >==============
> >Please cite your references
> >My experience and sources tell me that the 442 option was available on
all
> >the A-bodies from the F85 to the Supreme, with differing costs for each
> >model that was to be upgraded.
> >   Corrections ALWAYS appreciated, but "facts" must be backed up with
some
> > references.  If you are, say, the National Senior OCA Judge, I will
> > re-assess my information.
> [snip]
> >I fwd'd this to the experts on the email list to hash thru as well.
> >
> >What say ye, listmemebers? Surely ONE of you has or has seen the elusive
> >1967 442 which was NOT based on the Cutlass Supreme, and is not
home-made?
> >
> >Or, If I am incorrect, by all means set me straight [and cite your
sources].
> >-----------------------
> >Chris Witt
> >1303 W. Miller Rd.
> >Lansing MI 48911
>
> Chris,
>
> It's hard to tell what you're saying and what the other guy is saying in
> the above exchange.
>
> I had always heard that for 1967 (and 1967 alone) the 442 option was only
> available on the Supreme model, not on the lower-line models. I thought
> this was on the order forms.
>
> Of course, even if this was factory policy, it's not to say that NO 442's
> were built on other models that year, or that the policy of limiting the
> 442 option to the CS model held firm throughout the entire model year.
>
>
> _______________________________________
> Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
> http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 14:14:34 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: Automatic to Manual transmission conversion kits

Just an FYI (or possibly a PSA). This is the last chance to order the
Automatic to Manual transmission conversion kits (includes pedals, pads,
clutch fork, bellcrank, bellcrank bracket, clutch rods, bushings, etc.) at
the low price of $249.95. I know that OPG charges $329 for the same kits,
and I presume that others are charging similarly. The main reason for the
increase is the cost of shipping. I just received 5 kits and was charged $64
shipping. I called my supplier and they would not give me a break on that,
even though it's clearly exorbitant. Anyway, I'll still keep my price lower
than the competition, but I can't afford to absorb that kind of shipping
charge with the narrow margin that I've been making on these kits. So,
today's the last chance, and I have the 64-66 and 68-72 kits in stock. You
can see them by typing thr part numbers into the search box on my web site
(http://oldcarnetwork.com).

SP060  1964-66 Floor Shifter Conversion Kit (4-speed) - Chevelle / El Camino

SP061  1967 Floor Shifter Conversion Kit (4-speed) - Chevelle / El Camino

SP062  1968-72 Floor Shifter Conversion Kit (4-speed) - Chevelle / El Camino

I don't have a pic of the 1967 kit, but you can see the pictures of the
other two to get a sense of what is included. The price will go up as of
close of business today (6pm eastern US time). Though they are listed as
Chevelle kits, these kits also work on Cutlass, GTO, and Skylark, except for
the bellcrank (available separately).

Thanks,
John Nasta
Old Car Network
http://oldcarnetwork.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 14:12:32 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?

I would love to see that VIN ...............
All 442s begin with 338 .............
If it says 338..  then it is a Supreme ............

      33800
      Cutlass F-85
      V-8 Engine Cutlass
      Supreme Sports Coupe (post)
      Hardtop Holiday Coupe
      Convertible
      Custom Station Wagon - 2 Seat Ext.
      Custom Station Wagon - 2 Seat Ext.
      Four-door Hardtop Holiday Sedan
      Four-door Town Sedan (post) 33807
      33817
      33867
      33855
      33865
      33839
      33869



> Chris is right. How does a bare-bones '67 442 2-door F-85 sedan with no
> other options and that rubber floor covering instead of carpets and with
> radio and heater deletes sound? Sorry, that's bull saying that all '67
442s
> were built from Cutlass Supremes.
>
>>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 15:56:31 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: digest missing?

did I miss a digest?
no one posting anything?

Lots more stuff just listed on ebay, mostly 1966 442 pieces, more to come.

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN 
Premium! 
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/mlb&pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 16:28:15 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

Bob,
I got my '74 350 cutlass up from RI monday. I went down Saturday to start it
so it could be towed to NH. Ran fine Saturday, got the car delivered Monday.
Started it up to move it 10 Ft. in my drive way. It farted through the carb
(Holley 750 cfm DD manual choke) I replaced the cap, rotor,  plugs and coil.
It still won't start. Enough to start a small fire though. It didn't back
fire, just sputtered through the throat of the carb.
Could it be a messed up power valve? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <robert.demuth@prudential.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves


>
> Hey John,
>
> If you mean this:
> http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D125%2D500
>
> and this:
> http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SPE%2D2408
>
> yes, they work.  I believe the 4150s they make now come with this feature
> factory installed.
>
> Bob DeMuth.
> '72 88 conv.
>
>
> >>>>
>
> Has anybody had success with any of the "power valve
> protection" kits out there?
>
> I'd like to try running some Holleys on the street
> again, if I could get the power valves to last!
>
> =====
> John Pajak
> <<<<
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 14:26:42 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

Pat,

> Could it be a messed up power valve?


A blown power valve won't prevent the engine from starting and running.
It'll just be rich.

You said it ran fine Saturday, someone picked up the car and delivered it to
you on Monday, and now it won't run. Is that correct?

Could the condenser, either on a points distributor or on a HEI distributor,
have failed and is shorting the ignition to ground? Is there any signs of
tampering with the engine? Could someone have played a trick and changed the
firing order on the plug wires by rearranging them? Don't laugh at that one.
There's a reason some of my hoods are locked.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4855
*********************************
