
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, April 24 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4867



Re: wheel well
Exhaust: 350: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?
3.73 for Highway?
Re: 3.73 for Highway?
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
drum brake hub
Re: 3.73 for Highway?
Re: Exhaust: 350: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?
Hi All
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
Re: drum brake hub
Re: wheel well
Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
Power Steering Pulley Removal
Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal
Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal
Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal
RE: drum brake hub
'90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 13:54:43 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: wheel well

Yes, you can remove the inner wheel well without bothering the outer fender.
With that side up on a jack stand, the wheel off, the suspension hanging
down, and all of the bolts removed holding the wheel well on and stuff onto
the wheel well, you can rotate the inner wheel well out from under the outer
fender. It does require holding your mouth right.

You might not ever get it back in that way, but you can get it out.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherman Higgins" <goodfoot@ix.netcom.com>
To: "oldsmobile" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 1:05 PM
Subject: wheel well


> would it be  possible to remove the wheel well without having to remove
the fender on my 1965 442 ?
>
>
>
>
> Sherman Higgins
> goodfoot@ix.netcom.com
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 18:36:24 -0400
From: travis gummels <travis@gummels.com>
Subject: Exhaust: 350: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?

Hello Everybody,

Thanks for the replies.  Seems that a 2.5inch exhaust is probably the 
way to go.  In regards to the manifolds, I have the stock cast units.  I 
do not plan on going to headers as that I hear they are more work than 
they are worth.  The only company I've been able to find via google that 
makes a 2.5 dual exhaust that bolts to the stock manifolds is torquetech

http://www.torquetechexh.com/gmmanifold.htm

If anyone has recomendations for another company that produces a 2.5 
mandrel bent from the manifolds exhaust I'd like to hear about them... 
especially if they make it in stainless.

Thanks
Travis

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 16:41:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: 3.73 for Highway?

"Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu> wrote:
It seems the plan of attack is to go with a Chebby
rear end and some 3.73 (I
do currently have the original 3:90s) for
highway-ability.

**********************
Dan, I consider 3.73 to be a little much for highway
use, even with 28" tall back tires.

You might want to consider 3.42s, or even 3.23 

=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 00:08:34 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: Re: 3.73 for Highway?

i did not like 3.73  in my 77 olds cutty. at 60 mph 3000 rpm
ron 
> "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu> wrote:
> It seems the plan of attack is to go with a Chebby
> rear end and some 3.73 (I
> do currently have the original 3:90s) for
> highway-ability.
> 
> **********************
> Dan, I consider 3.73 to be a little much for highway
> use, even with 28" tall back tires.
> 
> You might want to consider 3.42s, or even 3.23 
> 
> =====
> John Pajak
> 
> http://jspajak.tripod.com
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢
> http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 18:44:32 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

A 455 conversion is not expensive at all. It costs as much to rebuild a 350 
as it costs to rebuild a 455. Main two issues with a swap is that you'll 
need a th400 and line the exhaust up. Brackets, cooling, heating, 
everything else will interchange.

Of course, your engine is very low mileage. So, likely, the bores will not 
be worn beyond spec and you may get away with rebuilding the heads, putting 
new rings and bearings and honing the bores.

George


At 09:16 AM 4/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks for the clarification...
>A 455 would be nice..... but I'm pretty sure I don't have the funds to do a
>swap like, and do it correctly.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 1:50 PM
>Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
>
>
> > The engine can be bored 0.060". To stroke an engine, you use a crank with
>a
> > longer stroke, not longer rods. Stroking an engine costs a lot of money.
>It
> > would be better to install a big block.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 6:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> >
> >
> > > I got air/tools, so I could remove the heads and such, but now I'm
> > thinking
> > > a complete engine rebuild if i'm going to go to that kinda trouble.
> > >
> > > can you bore AND  'stroke' the rocket 350? or would there be clearance
> > > issues with longer rods?
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 7:36 AM
> > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > >
> > >
> > > > If you've never done valve stem seals it is a tedious job.
> > > > The best way is to take the heads off and send them to your local
> > machine
> > > > shop. Do you have an air compressor and air tools?
> > > > Pat Swanton
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 8:19 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks for all the suggestions.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'll check all this out this weekend.... The underside of the car
> > where
> > > > the
> > > > > motor and trans meet is very oily....
> > > > > The valve stem seals are original, motor has never been touched. Is
> > this
> > > > > something that is fairly easy to do?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 21:12:45 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey77@earthlink.net>
Subject: drum brake hub

Hello all,

  I noticed over that past couple of months that my passenger-side front
wheel is constantly loosening.  After further investigation, I found that
three of the wheel studs are actually loose in the hub, and that the area
around them is somewhat worn.

  So I am in need of a drum brake hub for a '69 Cutlass.  I haven't been
able to find any for sale new, and was wondering if anyone on the list has
one they wouldn't mind parting with.

  Has anyone else ever had this happen?

Thanks,
John C. Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 23:17:41 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3.73 for Highway?

Dan/List,

I have a set of 3.73 rear end gears in my 70 C-10, and with monster-size 
truck (LT235-75R15) tires the tach still reads somewhere near 3500 going down the 
highway.  I can only imagine what this engine was turning when I had it in 
another truck (3/4-ton 1977 C-type) that had 4.11 gears!  If I had my preference 
I'd have something in the neighborhood of 3.10 for the (mainly) highway use 
the truck gets.

On a related note (gears), the 1980 Starfire has a 2.92 rear gear and runs 
185-70R13 tires.  I'm not sure the tach is correct or not, but at 70 MPH it 
indicates the V-6 is turning somewhere around 3000 RPM.  Since this is going to be 
my daily-driver I want to eventually get an OD transmission so I can squeeze 
out even more MPG's.  It's already better than the truck!

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 22:30:46 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust: 350: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?

try pypes exhaust.

Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "travis gummels" <travis@gummels.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 5:36 PM
Subject: Exhaust: 350: 2in or 2.5in, which is better?


> Hello Everybody,
> 
> Thanks for the replies.  Seems that a 2.5inch exhaust is probably the 
> way to go.  In regards to the manifolds, I have the stock cast units.  I 
> do not plan on going to headers as that I hear they are more work than 
> they are worth.  The only company I've been able to find via google that 
> makes a 2.5 dual exhaust that bolts to the stock manifolds is torquetech
> 
> http://www.torquetechexh.com/gmmanifold.htm
> 
> If anyone has recomendations for another company that produces a 2.5 
> mandrel bent from the manifolds exhaust I'd like to hear about them... 
> especially if they make it in stainless.
> 
> Thanks
> Travis
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 22:39:20 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Hi All

Hello
  Just in case anyone noticed I was gone I figured I'd say howdy and tell
people I was back
  I got the 455 into my trans am last weekend. I ran it a whole 7 miles
before I found antifreeze in the oil. Now I have the heads torn off it and
I'm sending them to be machined and checked like I should have done when I
bought them. Never trust edelbrock parts, I am learning this fast. I believe
my torker intake has the wrong angle on it too.
Should have the heads back next weekend so I will be busy.

It sure was a fun 7 miles though!
Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 07:36:46 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

what about suspension? can the front end handle the 455??? Is there not much
weight difference between the two?

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions


> A 455 conversion is not expensive at all. It costs as much to rebuild a
350
> as it costs to rebuild a 455. Main two issues with a swap is that you'll
> need a th400 and line the exhaust up. Brackets, cooling, heating,
> everything else will interchange.
>
> Of course, your engine is very low mileage. So, likely, the bores will not
> be worn beyond spec and you may get away with rebuilding the heads,
putting
> new rings and bearings and honing the bores.
>
> George
>
>
> At 09:16 AM 4/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >Thanks for the clarification...
> >A 455 would be nice..... but I'm pretty sure I don't have the funds to do
a
> >swap like, and do it correctly.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 1:50 PM
> >Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> >
> >
> > > The engine can be bored 0.060". To stroke an engine, you use a crank
with
> >a
> > > longer stroke, not longer rods. Stroking an engine costs a lot of
money.
> >It
> > > would be better to install a big block.
> > >
> > > Milton Schick
> > > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > > imp@theriver.com
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 6:44 AM
> > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > >
> > >
> > > > I got air/tools, so I could remove the heads and such, but now I'm
> > > thinking
> > > > a complete engine rebuild if i'm going to go to that kinda trouble.
> > > >
> > > > can you bore AND  'stroke' the rocket 350? or would there be
clearance
> > > > issues with longer rods?
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> > > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 7:36 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > If you've never done valve stem seals it is a tedious job.
> > > > > The best way is to take the heads off and send them to your local
> > > machine
> > > > > shop. Do you have an air compressor and air tools?
> > > > > Pat Swanton
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > > > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 8:19 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks for all the suggestions.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I'll check all this out this weekend.... The underside of the
car
> > > where
> > > > > the
> > > > > > motor and trans meet is very oily....
> > > > > > The valve stem seals are original, motor has never been touched.
Is
> > > this
> > > > > > something that is fairly easy to do?
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 09:03:39 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: drum brake hub

>   So I am in need of a drum brake hub for a '69 Cutlass.  I haven't been
> able to find any for sale new, and was wondering if anyone on the list has
> one they wouldn't mind parting with.

Any auto parts store has a selection of wheel studs. I would think you could
get some slightly larger diameter at the knurl and press them into the
oversized holes.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 09:23:30 -0400
From: "Sherman Higgins" <goodfoot@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: wheel well

Thank's for your help, I'll let you know if I can hold my mouth right and
if I get it back in the same as it was originally.


> [Original Message]
> From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: 4/23/2004 5:16:00 PM
> Subject: Re: wheel well
>
> Yes, you can remove the inner wheel well without bothering the outer
fender.
> With that side up on a jack stand, the wheel off, the suspension hanging
> down, and all of the bolts removed holding the wheel well on and stuff
onto
> the wheel well, you can rotate the inner wheel well out from under the
outer
> fender. It does require holding your mouth right.
>
> You might not ever get it back in that way, but you can get it out.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sherman Higgins" <goodfoot@ix.netcom.com>
> To: "oldsmobile" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 1:05 PM
> Subject: wheel well
>
>
> > would it be  possible to remove the wheel well without having to remove
> the fender on my 1965 442 ?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sherman Higgins
> > goodfoot@ix.netcom.com
> > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 09:41:45 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions

the weight difference is minimal and with an aluminum intake on the 455 they
will be about the same.
Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions


> what about suspension? can the front end handle the 455??? Is there not
much
> weight difference between the two?
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 8:44 PM
> Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
>
>
> > A 455 conversion is not expensive at all. It costs as much to rebuild a
> 350
> > as it costs to rebuild a 455. Main two issues with a swap is that you'll
> > need a th400 and line the exhaust up. Brackets, cooling, heating,
> > everything else will interchange.
> >
> > Of course, your engine is very low mileage. So, likely, the bores will
not
> > be worn beyond spec and you may get away with rebuilding the heads,
> putting
> > new rings and bearings and honing the bores.
> >
> > George
> >
> >
> > At 09:16 AM 4/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > >Thanks for the clarification...
> > >A 455 would be nice..... but I'm pretty sure I don't have the funds to
do
> a
> > >swap like, and do it correctly.
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> > >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > >Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 1:50 PM
> > >Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > >
> > >
> > > > The engine can be bored 0.060". To stroke an engine, you use a crank
> with
> > >a
> > > > longer stroke, not longer rods. Stroking an engine costs a lot of
> money.
> > >It
> > > > would be better to install a big block.
> > > >
> > > > Milton Schick
> > > > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > > > imp@theriver.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 6:44 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I got air/tools, so I could remove the heads and such, but now I'm
> > > > thinking
> > > > > a complete engine rebuild if i'm going to go to that kinda
trouble.
> > > > >
> > > > > can you bore AND  'stroke' the rocket 350? or would there be
> clearance
> > > > > issues with longer rods?
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> > > > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 7:36 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > If you've never done valve stem seals it is a tedious job.
> > > > > > The best way is to take the heads off and send them to your
local
> > > > machine
> > > > > > shop. Do you have an air compressor and air tools?
> > > > > > Pat Swanton
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
> > > > > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 8:19 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: 71 cutlass oil use and starting questions
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks for all the suggestions.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'll check all this out this weekend.... The underside of the
> car
> > > > where
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > motor and trans meet is very oily....
> > > > > > > The valve stem seals are original, motor has never been
touched.
> Is
> > > > this
> > > > > > > something that is fairly easy to do?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 11:42:20 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal

Hi Guys,
    How do you remove the pulley from a power steering pump like you'd 
find on a '64 or '65 Cutlass? I tried a three jaw puller but it just 
bends the pulley. What's the secret?
Thanks,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 11:58:30 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal

Hey List,

        This worked for me. Take the puller up
untill it is snug, then  1/8 of a turn farther.  Smack the
end up the puller with a hammer. The inward force coupled
with the outward pry will couse it to pop. Liberal amounts 
of WD-40 and the like will also help. I have a few pulleys around if you
need one.

The General       patton442@verizon.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gene Gatti" <64f-85@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 11:42 AM
Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal


> Hi Guys,
>     How do you remove the pulley from a power steering pump like you'd 
> find on a '64 or '65 Cutlass? I tried a three jaw puller but it just 
> bends the pulley. What's the secret?
> Thanks,
> Gene
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 11:14:20 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal

I need one, mine looks like Genes now does from when I tried to get it off.

Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal


> Hey List,
> 
>         This worked for me. Take the puller up
> untill it is snug, then  1/8 of a turn farther.  Smack the
> end up the puller with a hammer. The inward force coupled
> with the outward pry will couse it to pop. Liberal amounts 
> of WD-40 and the like will also help. I have a few pulleys around if you
> need one.
> 
> The General       patton442@verizon.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gene Gatti" <64f-85@comcast.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 11:42 AM
> Subject: Power Steering Pulley Removal
> 
> 
> > Hi Guys,
> >     How do you remove the pulley from a power steering pump like you'd 
> > find on a '64 or '65 Cutlass? I tried a three jaw puller but it just 
> > bends the pulley. What's the secret?
> > Thanks,
> > Gene
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 14:21:09 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Power Steering Pulley Removal

Hi General,
    Thanks for the tip. I tried it but the pulley doesn't want to budge 
so now it's soaking in PB Blaster. I'll try again tomorrow.
Thanks,
Gene

>
>        This worked for me. Take the puller up
>untill it is snug, then  1/8 of a turn farther.  Smack the
>end up the puller with a hammer. The inward force coupled
>with the outward pry will couse it to pop. Liberal amounts 
>of WD-40 and the like will also help. I have a few pulleys around if you
>need one.
>  
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 12:48:30 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey77@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: drum brake hub

I would do this, but I'm concerned that the hole is out of round and my new
stud will be off-center.

John

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dave Cullen
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2004 8:04 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: drum brake hub


>   So I am in need of a drum brake hub for a '69 Cutlass.  I haven't been
> able to find any for sale new, and was wondering if anyone on the list has
> one they wouldn't mind parting with.

Any auto parts store has a selection of wheel studs. I would think you could
get some slightly larger diameter at the knurl and press them into the
oversized holes.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 21:49:12 EDT
From: Olznut@aol.com
Subject: '90 Olds 88 Computer Code Help, and I Need A Hub Cap Removal Tool

- -------------------------------1082857751
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I got a new toy to go back and forth to work in, and it's throwing a code 26 
on the computer, which my Haynes book says it's a "Quad Driver Circuit" and to 
"take to dealer for diagnosis" What does this code mean?? Fyi, it also throws 
a code 41, which is the cam position sensor. Are the 2 tied in together?? 
HELP PLEASE!! Also, does anyone have the hubcap removal tool that I can buy?? It 
doesen't have one. 


Ed "Olznut" Halterman Sunland, Ca '03 Ram Laramie 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Bed 
HEMI "Big Red" '66 Olds F-85 330 V-8, Intense Blue "Project Olds" Will Be 
Finished Sometime This Millenium!! 

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<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">I got a new toy to go back and forth to work in, and it's throwing a code=
 26 on the computer, which my Haynes book says it's a "Quad Driver Circuit"=20=
and to "take to dealer for diagnosis" What does this code mean?? Fyi, it als=
o throws a code 41, which is the cam position sensor. Are the 2 tied in toge=
ther?? HELP PLEASE!! Also, does anyone have the hubcap removal tool that I c=
an buy?? It doesen't have one.=20
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<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Ed "Olznut" Halterman Sunland, Ca '03 Ram Laramie 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Be=
d HEMI "Big Red" '66 Olds F-85 330 V-8, Intense Blue "Project Olds" Will Be=20=
Finished Sometime This Millenium!! <BR><BR><BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4867
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