
oldsmobile-digest        Monday, March 8 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4807



Re: First 4 barrel on Olds
Control Arm intechange - was: 68-72? A arms
Re: Mass. Emissions
Re: 3.23 vs 3.42
307 engine kit
Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?
Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?
Re:  Tri-Power more fuel efficient - the first 4 barrel
Re: Rotella Bad for O2 Sensor or Cat??
Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?
Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?
Re: Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?
Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?
Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?
Re: Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?
Re: Re: Looking for parts
2001 Olds Mini Van
Re: 2001 Olds Mini Van
Engine knocking
Re: 3.23 vs 3.42
What's an NOS 1970 OAI W30 hood worth?
Re: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts
Re: 2001 Olds Mini Van
Re: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts
RE: Engine knocking
Re: ADMIN: UNBOUNCING posts, etc.
Re: joke parts site
Re: Engine knocking
Re: What's an NOS 1970 OAI W30 hood worth?
RE: Looking for parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 16:20:22 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Re: First 4 barrel on Olds

The first 4 barrel was offered on  1952 Super 88 and 98.  Had an original 
''52 "98"  in 19'64 with the 4  barrel carb.  Rochester IIRC.

Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 19:08:47 -0500
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: Control Arm intechange - was: 68-72? A arms

FWIW: Hollander shows:

Oldsmobile F85
includes Cutlass thru '72
'65-'72 upper arm = interchange #697
'64-'72 lower arm = interchange #678

#697 = 404124-5 R. & L. upper arm
Buick Special '66-'72
Grand Prix '69-'72
Olds F85 '65-'72
Tempest '64-'72

#678 = 402038-39 R. & L. lower arm
Buick Special '64-'72
Grand Prix '69-'72
Olds F85 '64-'72
Tempest '64-'72


Mark


<<from Olds Digest>>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 12:04:40 -0800 (PST)
From: jayandcindy@webtv.net (Jay and Cindy Bognar)
Subject: 68-72? A arms

Just an interesting note:  We had to get another A arm (can't remember
if it was upper or lower) for our 70 supreme some years ago (bent).  It
had 4 wheel drums.  I think I remember the yards saying there was a
difference in either the upper or lower front arms if the car had drums,
or maybe that it was different for 68-70 and 71-72.  I know that some
front stuff is diff. for 71-72, like the disc brake line/hoses for sure.
Jay B
72 CS
95 Aurora
86 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 19:23:38 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Mass. Emissions

At 07:09 AM 03/06/2004 -0500, Paul wrote:
>"ACTUALLY ANY CAR  ANY YEAR WITH REGURLAR REGISTRATION GETS A EMSSION
>TEST."
>
>Not true. Cars made before 1984 get no emissions test. Safety only.

Actually, I think Ron's comment was NJ-specific.  When I had regular
registration on my 1972 Olds 98, 1972 Delta Convertible, and 1979 Cutlass,
all were given the sniffer test.  At idle, and at a higher RPM, though
frankly I have no idea what arbitrary RPM they chose, I was just
uncomfortable with them revving my car.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 19:34:25 -0500
From: King V <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: 3.23 vs 3.42

At 08:28 AM 03/06/2004 -0500, Larry wrote:
>Hi list,
>Paul Tumolo has been very kind in guiding me through my decision to change
>rears on my 71 SX.  Currently it has a 2.56 posi.  Paul hooked me up with
>Brian Trick who has both 3.23 and 3.42 posi rears for sale at a fair price.

<snip>

>The current 2.56 can not spin the tires which I am not happy with.

<snip>

>Car has 245/60R14s TA Radials

Echoing Chris and Milton's sentiments . . those are actually relatively
short tires, almost exactly the same height as 195/75R14s (was that the
stock size for that car?), albeit with better grip.

Anyway, you should easily be able to roast 'em from a stop, even with a
bone-stock, low-compression 455.  The posi might make that more difficult
with such low gears, admittedly, but it should still be able to do it.

Definitely find out what's wrong.

However, if you still want to go better gears, I'd say 3.23.  Even then it
might be a touch on the high-revving side for highway cruising, at least
for my personal tastes.

If you'd ever planned on going with an overdrive trans, on the other hand.
I'd say 3.42 or 3.73 is the way to go.

This is assuming a near-stock setup, though, stock to very mild cam, etc.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 00:59:25 +0000
From: wbussell1@comcast.net
Subject: 307 engine kit

I confess that I don't read the digest as often as I should.  Now, I am interested in a rebuild kit for the 307 engine in my 87 Custom Cruiser.  I have another engine on the garage floor from an 86 Buick Regal.  The problem with these engines is the roller cam and high cost of a kit.  I have been looking at a complete kit for about $600.  I have also toyed with the idea of just getting a complete engine.  I am only looking to bring the Customer Cruiser back to somewhat original specs. Where should I look for the best deal?

Bill Bussell

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 21:33:17 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?

Matt,


> Milton, the MPG is also determined by the setting of each carb, NOT only
by
> the right foot of the driver.


Yes, the calibration of the air bleeds, jet size, power valve size and
effectiveness, pump squirter size, quality of vacuum signal acting on the
venturi clusters, and other items inside the Holley will affect MPG.
However, one's foot placement will always be the biggest factor, by far.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:40:56 -0800
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?

Hey everyone!

I'm looking to replace the coolant overflow hose in my '65 442. The nozzle
is 3/8, but the only 3/8 hose I can find is PCV/Fuel line. I need the
thin-wall style that will fit in the clips routed down the side of the core
support.

Any suggestions where to pick this up? I need about 3ft I suppose.

Thanks! 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 21:49:04 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re:  Tri-Power more fuel efficient - the first 4 barrel

I don't know.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:27 PM
Subject: Tri-Power more fuel efficient - the first 4 barrel


> OK list,
>
>         This has got me thinking...
> When was the first Olds 4 barrel offered ???
> 1953 maybe ???
>
>
> The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 21:48:17 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Rotella Bad for O2 Sensor or Cat??

> I think the more specific issue at hand here is not Rotella alone, but
> diesel oils in general - I too have heard that diesel oils contain much
> stronger detergents and additives,


Of course they do. That's the only way to be certain all the soot from
Diesel combustion is removed from the crankcase. Also, over-the-road
long-haul and heavy duty use, i.e., construction equipment, place much
higher demands on Diesel oil than gas engines do.


> and are not recommended for use in
> gasoline engines.


That is not true. Diesel oils not only have the SAE gasoline ratings applied
to them, but also the extra severe use ratings reserved for Diesel use.
Within the SAE rating system for oils, that means that Diesel oil in gas
engines is overkill for nominal use. In other words, if you are a fleet
operator, you will save money on oil if you only use gas rated oil in gas
engines. However, if the fleet operator uses Diesel oil in his gas engines,
along with his Diesel engines, he only has to buy one type of oil at a
volume price and his gas engines may last longer. An ultra high detergent
additive package will in no way harm any gas automotive engine.


> I ran 15W40 for years without problems, and I tend to
> doubt the claims that it's bad, but it is a rumor that we hear pop up
often.


I'm sorry, but the rumor is wrong and flys in the face of the SAE rating
system for all engine oils.


> The sum total of this thread so far has been Rotella-specific, but the
> initial post was about diesel oil in general, I think, Rot just named as
an
> example.  I've heard really good things about Rot, and we can always
> recognize rot coming out of powerstrokes, cuz it's clean and smooth, as
> opposed to black and waterry.  But regular run of the mill diesel oils, I
> know very very little about.


There are different grades of Diesel oil, just like there are different
grades of gas engine oil. All of these oils carry SAE performance ratings.
As long as the SAE rating for the specific Diesel oil also states use in gas
engines, then there's no problem. As far as I know, every single premium
grade Diesel oil is also rated superior for gas engines.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 21:53:34 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?

Well, the tunnel ram on my early Hemi with 2 Carter 750 AFBs and a radical
Crower mechanical cam and 4.56 gears in the "T" roadster would get near 15
MPG on highway cruise at 70. Of course, those weren't Holleys. The roadster
only weighed 1850 pounds. Yes, the roadster took a few relatively long trips
in Missoura.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?


> At 11:39 AM 3/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >> If this is the case, how does one explain the notorious bad-MPG
reputation
> >> of a Holley double pumper?
> >
> >
> >Chris, you just did, it's a Holley. Holleys can't get good MPG.
> >
> >Seriously, Holley double pumpers have 30 cc front pumps and 50 cc rear
> >pumps. That can dump a lot of fuel real quick. On Thunder's 850 double
> >pumper, if I behave myself, I can get 13-14 MPG. If I don't behave
myself,
> >the MPG can drop as low as 8.
>
> Heh.... ifn you really want an eye-opener, drop a tunnelram or crossram on
> Thunder complete with a pair of 850 double-pumpers
====================8-O
>
> That's a real good way to see whether yer fuel gage works, too  ;o(((((
>
> SteveH
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 21:56:15 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?

> Because double-pumpers dump fuel from TWO accelerator pumps compared to
> just a single pump.


True, but only when you put your foot into it. About the first 75% of
throttle is only on the primaries.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:06:17 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?

Millipore or Imperial clear vinyl hose from a hardware store.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 9:40 PM
Subject: Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?


> Hey everyone!
>
> I'm looking to replace the coolant overflow hose in my '65 442. The nozzle
> is 3/8, but the only 3/8 hose I can find is PCV/Fuel line. I need the
> thin-wall style that will fit in the clips routed down the side of the
core
> support.
>
> Any suggestions where to pick this up? I need about 3ft I suppose.
>
> Thanks!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 05:14:42 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?

At 09:53 PM 3/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, the tunnel ram on my early Hemi with 2 Carter 750 AFBs and a radical
>Crower mechanical cam and 4.56 gears in the "T" roadster would get near 15
>MPG on highway cruise at 70. Of course, those weren't Holleys. The roadster
>only weighed 1850 pounds. Yes, the roadster took a few relatively long trips
>in Missoura.

My buddy's '67 427 Vette consistently got 25 mpg commuting back and forth
between LA and San Luis Obispo in the '70s. After he graduated and started
commuting in LA city traffic, it rarely got worse than 15. I confirmed his
words when he let me drive it for a cupla weeks while he and his girlfriend
went on a two-week camping vacation in his '69 Elky. The Vette was a
4-speed, had a nice lumpy cam, headers and working homemade side exhaust.
And it had a single-pumper 850 Hooley, about the only one either of us ever
considered to work like a carburetor should  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:47:24 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?

Yep, he knew how to drive and had a very efficient engine and associated
systems.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: Tri-Power more fuel efficient?


> At 09:53 PM 3/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >Well, the tunnel ram on my early Hemi with 2 Carter 750 AFBs and a
radical
> >Crower mechanical cam and 4.56 gears in the "T" roadster would get near
15
> >MPG on highway cruise at 70. Of course, those weren't Holleys. The
roadster
> >only weighed 1850 pounds. Yes, the roadster took a few relatively long
trips
> >in Missoura.
>
> My buddy's '67 427 Vette consistently got 25 mpg commuting back and forth
> between LA and San Luis Obispo in the '70s. After he graduated and started
> commuting in LA city traffic, it rarely got worse than 15. I confirmed his
> words when he let me drive it for a cupla weeks while he and his
girlfriend
> went on a two-week camping vacation in his '69 Elky. The Vette was a
> 4-speed, had a nice lumpy cam, headers and working homemade side exhaust.
> And it had a single-pumper 850 Hooley, about the only one either of us
ever
> considered to work like a carburetor should  ;o\
>
> SteveH
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 04:35:49 -0500
From: "Fred Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Where to get thin-walled 3/8ths hose?

> I'm looking to replace the coolant overflow hose in my '65 442. The nozzle
> is 3/8, but the only 3/8 hose I can find is PCV/Fuel line. I need the
> thin-wall style that will fit in the clips routed down the side of the
core
> support.
>
> Any suggestions where to pick this up?

Radiator shop.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:33:08 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for parts

Mike, are you from RI? I know the name Morrissey from NSJSHS. If this
doesn't ring any bells, "swanny" then I have the wrong person.

Regards,
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for parts


> I have a (rather large) file I could email your friend concerning plastic
> grille repair... pics and all, if he's interested. I saved over $600 on my
> '69 rebuild going this way, and got very good results. My grilles were
> HASHED, and you cannot tell theyve been repaired. Email off-list. Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe & Gloria Varley" <carcouple@cox.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 10:40 PM
> Subject: [SPAM?] Looking for parts
>
>
> > Have a club friend with a nice '70 Vista Cruiser.  The right (pass)
grille
> > has 1 fin broken out of it, in about the middle.  He needs a junk grille
> to
> > pull 1 piece out of and epoxy into his.  Anybody have 1 cheap?
> >
> > Joe Varley
> >       AZ
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 05:23:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Alan Friedrich <jetfire63@yahoo.com>
Subject: 2001 Olds Mini Van

- --0-668602610-1078752199=:54710
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I am currently think about purchasing  a 2001 Olds Mini Van, it has the 3.4L v6 and 75,000 miles. Is there any thing any of you lister out there know of to watch out for?
 
 


63 Cutlass Convertible, 4v, 4 speed, dualed 
63 Cutlass 2 door post 4v, 4 speed 
63 Cutlass 2 door post 2V, Auto on floor, factory air 
63 Cutlass 4 door 2v, Auto on column 
63 Jetfire 2 door hardtop, (needs turbo) 
63 Cutlass Wagon and other 63 Cutlass / F-85 parts cars (WANTED)
63 Dynamic 88 Fiesta wagon


- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster.
- --0-668602610-1078752199=:54710
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>I am currently think about purchasing&nbsp; a 2001 Olds Mini Van, it has the 3.4L v6 and 75,000 miles. Is there any thing any of you lister out there know of to watch out for?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><BR><BR><DIV>63 Cutlass Convertible, 4v, 4 speed, dualed <BR>63 Cutlass 2 door post 4v, 4 speed <BR>63 Cutlass 2 door post 2V, Auto on floor, factory air <BR>63 Cutlass 4 door 2v, Auto on column <BR>63 Jetfire 2 door hardtop, (needs turbo) <BR>63 Cutlass Wagon and other 63 Cutlass / F-85 parts cars <STRONG>(WANTED)</STRONG><BR>63 Dynamic 88 Fiesta wagon</DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Yahoo! Search - <a href="http://search.yahoo.com/?fr=ad-mailsig-home">Find what you’re looking for faster.</a>
- --0-668602610-1078752199=:54710--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 08:36:25 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: 2001 Olds Mini Van

75,000 miles? In 3 years? Thats quite a bit. Just my .02 cents worth. My '78
Cutlass has 63,000 on it. I realize that todays engines are built to last
200,000 but I would check into the maintenance history. Is it a 1 owner?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Friedrich" <jetfire63@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 8:23 AM
Subject: 2001 Olds Mini Van


> I am currently think about purchasing  a 2001 Olds Mini Van, it has the
3.4L v6 and 75,000 miles. Is there any thing any of you lister out there
know of to watch out for?
>
>
>
>
> 63 Cutlass Convertible, 4v, 4 speed, dualed
> 63 Cutlass 2 door post 4v, 4 speed
> 63 Cutlass 2 door post 2V, Auto on floor, factory air
> 63 Cutlass 4 door 2v, Auto on column
> 63 Jetfire 2 door hardtop, (needs turbo)
> 63 Cutlass Wagon and other 63 Cutlass / F-85 parts cars (WANTED)
> 63 Dynamic 88 Fiesta wagon
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 09:24:19 -0500
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Engine knocking

All,
Since I havent purchased my new engine just yet, I thought id ask the 
list's opinion on something. I have a bone stock 1970 Olds 98. I heard 
the engine knocking form the bottom of the block, plus a little 
screeching noise once or twice about every 4 minutes from the bottom as 
well. I drove the car for about 8 miles after I heard the knocking. The 
knocking did not get any worse. As soon as I got home I pulled the valve 
covers and there is no oil coming up through the pushrods. Im thinking I 
spun a bearing or something to that effect.

Now, Im trying to figure out should I just buy a new engine orrrrr 
should I pull the old engine and take it to a machine shop to get fixed. 
Now money is definately a problem here so I am hoping i can save this 
engine. My question is...does anyone think this engine is worth taking 
to the shop to see if it can get saved or should I just count on having 
to trash it. It ran fine after it started knocking, just the knocking 
noise and no oil through the pushrods. It wasnt pinging or anything. I 
will be doing all this engine pulling in the street so if its probably 
trashed i wouldnt try taking the engine out and taking it to the machine 
shop, id just buy a new one. The shop does pretty good work. One of my 
neighbors had his 67 Stang 302 rebuilt for  $500 (he took all his parts 
and the engine up there still assembled) and he hasnt had any trouble yet.

paulbunyan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 06:47:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Geo <geogeethree@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 3.23 vs 3.42

Larry 

In my '72 442, I've gone from the original 2.73 set to
a 3.23 then to a 3.42 (don't ask why; it's a looong
story).  Between the 3.23 and 3.42s, I honestly can't
really tell you which i prefer, BUT i do like both
much more than the original 2.73 ratio.  The engine
has approximately 9.5:1 compression, .472/.496 lift
cam (powerful from idle to about 4800 rpm), 3-angle
valve job, center dividers on heads welded, carb
rebuilt, distributor recurved and Pertronix instead of
points since about '93.  Here's the deal: I was
happiest with the 3.23s cruising at 55mph, but the
3.42 is more exciting.  Even though it doesn't seem
like much more gear than the 3.23, one can really feel
the difference with the 3.42 since my 455 makes all of
it's power at pretty low rpm.  Like someone else
mentioned, your setup as it is should spin the tires,
but if your 455 is '71 SX original then it has a very
mild cam, so along with your 2.56 rear, your free-flow
exhaust "might" actually be hurting you some.  Also,
make sure the carb Sparky did matches your 455 (i.e.
the carb's rods, jets, power piston spring).  It took
me awhile to get my carburetor and timing right for my
combo, and sometimes i fell like it can still be
better.

Geo
'72 442

- - ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "L. A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@verizon.net>
To: "OldsList" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 5:28 AM
Subject: 3.23 vs 3.42


> Hi list,
> Paul Tumolo has been very kind in guiding me through
my decision to 
change
> rears on my 71 SX.  Currently it has a 2.56 posi. 
Paul hooked me up 
with
> Brian Trick who has both 3.23 and 3.42 posi rears
for sale at a fair 
price.
>
> Now I have to decide between the two.  I realize it
is somewhat of a
> personal decision.  But any practical experience
would be 
appreciated.
> Based on input from Paul, I am leaning towards the
3.23.  But was 
hoping
> someone out there has some experience with the 3.42
in a cutlass or 
442 with
> stock 455.  Would love to go as low as possible if
the ride will 
still be
> comfortable.
>
> Here are the factors:
> My 455 is all original (45k miles) with sparky
rebuilt 4bbl, 
manifolds,
> Pertronix HEI, and 2.5" dual exhaust.
> I have dynamax super turbos on my torque tech
exhaust, she sounds 
really
> muscular but not like a drag car, but...
> The current 2.56 can not spin the tires which I am
not happy with.
> I will drive the car for pleasure only, with a
combination of local 
driving
> and local highway.  Will not take the car on long
trips unless I 
decide to
> go to a show.  No racing.
> Looking for a balance between performance
acceleration and reasonable 
RPM
> levels at highway speed.  Would like to be able to
spin the tires if 
desired
> from a slow roll plus have some head snapping when
punched to pass.  
Don't
> want to have to be careful about spinning the tires
in regular 
everyday
> driving.
> Car has 245/60R14s TA Radials
> Price between the rears is the same.
>
>
> Thx again,
>
> Larry Biasotto (on digest)
> 71 SX Convertible


__________________________________
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Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 09:54:13 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: What's an NOS 1970 OAI W30 hood worth?

Any idea what an NOS 1970 OAI W30 hood might go gor?
It's new, has screen, never painted or installed.
Comes only with 1969 Cutlass project kit car.
Thanks!

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here. 
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 07:25:17 -0800
From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts

sorry swanny, wrong guy... I live just outside Baker city, Oregon.
Mike in baker city, Oregon
'98 intrigue
''72 suburban
'69 442 ragged-top
'69 vista "Vista-Carouser"
and the rest of the "Obsolete Fleet"
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 5:33 PM
Subject: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts


> Mike, are you from RI? I know the name Morrissey from NSJSHS. If this
> doesn't ring any bells, "swanny" then I have the wrong person.
>
> Regards,
> Pat.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Re: Looking for parts
>
>
> > I have a (rather large) file I could email your friend concerning
plastic
> > grille repair... pics and all, if he's interested. I saved over $600 on
my
> > '69 rebuild going this way, and got very good results. My grilles were
> > HASHED, and you cannot tell theyve been repaired. Email off-list. Mike
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Joe & Gloria Varley" <carcouple@cox.net>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 10:40 PM
> > Subject: [SPAM?] Looking for parts
> >
> >
> > > Have a club friend with a nice '70 Vista Cruiser.  The right (pass)
> grille
> > > has 1 fin broken out of it, in about the middle.  He needs a junk
grille
> > to
> > > pull 1 piece out of and epoxy into his.  Anybody have 1 cheap?
> > >
> > > Joe Varley
> > >       AZ
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 15:36:49 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: 2001 Olds Mini Van

> I am currently think about purchasing  a 2001 Olds Mini Van, it has the 3.4L > v6 and 75,000 miles. Is there any thing any of you lister out there know of 
> to watch out for?

Lower intake manifold gaskets and wheel bearings are two things that immediately come to mind...

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:45:25 -0500
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts

Thanks Mike, now you know there are two Mike Morrisey's at least in the USA.
Regards,
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts


> sorry swanny, wrong guy... I live just outside Baker city, Oregon.
> Mike in baker city, Oregon
> '98 intrigue
> ''72 suburban
> '69 442 ragged-top
> '69 vista "Vista-Carouser"
> and the rest of the "Obsolete Fleet"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 5:33 PM
> Subject: [SPAM?] Re: Re: Looking for parts
>
>
> > Mike, are you from RI? I know the name Morrissey from NSJSHS. If this
> > doesn't ring any bells, "swanny" then I have the wrong person.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Pat.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Morrissey" <oxfarm@oregontrail.net>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: Re: Looking for parts
> >
> >
> > > I have a (rather large) file I could email your friend concerning
> plastic
> > > grille repair... pics and all, if he's interested. I saved over $600
on
> my
> > > '69 rebuild going this way, and got very good results. My grilles were
> > > HASHED, and you cannot tell theyve been repaired. Email off-list. Mike
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Joe & Gloria Varley" <carcouple@cox.net>
> > > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 10:40 PM
> > > Subject: [SPAM?] Looking for parts
> > >
> > >
> > > > Have a club friend with a nice '70 Vista Cruiser.  The right (pass)
> > grille
> > > > has 1 fin broken out of it, in about the middle.  He needs a junk
> grille
> > > to
> > > > pull 1 piece out of and epoxy into his.  Anybody have 1 cheap?
> > > >
> > > > Joe Varley
> > > >       AZ
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 11:27:55 -0500
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: Engine knocking

Depends, do you want to preserve the car as original, need it as a daily
driver, how important is cost, how fast do you need it done? A used engine
is probably the cheapest and fastest way to go. But you don't know what your
getting. Rebuilds start adding up fairly quickly. Rebuilding yours will take
a couple of weeks to have back on the road.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Paul White
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:24 AM
To: Oldsmobile
Subject: Engine knocking


All,
Since I havent purchased my new engine just yet, I thought id ask the
list's opinion on something. I have a bone stock 1970 Olds 98. I heard
the engine knocking form the bottom of the block, plus a little
screeching noise once or twice about every 4 minutes from the bottom as
well. I drove the car for about 8 miles after I heard the knocking. The
knocking did not get any worse. As soon as I got home I pulled the valve
covers and there is no oil coming up through the pushrods. Im thinking I
spun a bearing or something to that effect.

Now, Im trying to figure out should I just buy a new engine orrrrr
should I pull the old engine and take it to a machine shop to get fixed.
Now money is definately a problem here so I am hoping i can save this
engine. My question is...does anyone think this engine is worth taking
to the shop to see if it can get saved or should I just count on having
to trash it. It ran fine after it started knocking, just the knocking
noise and no oil through the pushrods. It wasnt pinging or anything. I
will be doing all this engine pulling in the street so if its probably
trashed i wouldnt try taking the engine out and taking it to the machine
shop, id just buy a new one. The shop does pretty good work. One of my
neighbors had his 67 Stang 302 rebuilt for  $500 (he took all his parts
and the engine up there still assembled) and he hasnt had any trouble yet.

paulbunyan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:01:00 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: UNBOUNCING posts, etc.

>>I thank the Almighty, every day, that there are still some reflectors
>>that flatly refuse to go forum-style. I cannot stand forums, myself.
>>I'd go away if a reflector became one.
>
>At the risk of sounding like an AOLer ("me too"), I'll second that thought.
[...]
>Semi-clever use of your mail software will sort mail into separate areas 
>for
>you (one directory for Olds stuff, another for homebrewing stuff, etc.). 
>Web-based message boards usually don't do this, so keeping track of
>subjects you've read (and messages you've read within those subjects)
>is up to you.

My experience is not similar; in particular, the web-based fora that I'm in 
for BMW and Bonneville owner clubs (http://www.unofficialbmw.com and 
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com respectively) both provide email notifications 
whenever there are new updates to subjects that I've been participating in, 
including links within the notification that allow me to either jump 
directly to the latest messages in that thread or stop receiving 
notifications for that thread if it no longer interests me.

The forum also allows better grouping of interest areas (e.g. breakdown by 
similar model years, or areas of interest), more options for communication 
(e.g. private mail between members; links for member profiles), a search 
utility for hunting through the archives, and links to member-submitted FAQs 
and technical articles.

There are some minor annoyances: While you can upload images to go with your 
articles, in some cases members on ego trips tend to hang huge images on 
their signatures as well, making dialup downloads of discussions take longer 
than necessary since every posting by that member carries the same image, 
and sometimes screwing up the text wrapping in browser windows by forcing a 
horizontal scroll to accommodate large images, although that's more of a 
moderating issue than a software problem.

So I would not say that the web-based discussion-board forum is a bad thing, 
although at the same time I don't see an overwhelming need to migrate the 
Olds list to it.

(In fact, I originally wrote the previous sentence as "_upgrade_ the Olds 
list to it," but realistically we seem to be doing okay as we are.)

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Fast. Reliable. Get MSN 9 Dial-up - 3 months for the price of 1! 
(Limited-time Offer) http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:03:56 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: joke parts site

>I figured, for my 442, rather than use Cow Magnets by the dozen, lining the 
>entire fuel line from tank to carb, I would just wrap the line in wire, and 
>use the battery to induce a strong electromagnetic field, thus "polarizing" 
>the fuel molecules.

This would also provide incredible road-hugging ability over steel bridges, 
although you'd probably erase all your credit cards every time you drive the 
car...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral. 
http://special.msn.com/bcentral/loudclear.armx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 12:02:01 -0500
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Engine knocking

Im just looking to make it a reliable, quick, daily driver. Im not 
looking to keep all the original engine numbers, etc. How hard is it to 
ruin a crank on a 455? Do you have to really dog it out or does it mess 
up as soon as you hear it knock a few times? Thats my main question.
paulbunyan

jkopf@optonline.net wrote:

>Depends, do you want to preserve the car as original, need it as a daily
>driver, how important is cost, how fast do you need it done? A used engine
>is probably the cheapest and fastest way to go. But you don't know what your
>getting. Rebuilds start adding up fairly quickly. Rebuilding yours will take
>a couple of weeks to have back on the road.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Paul White
>Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:24 AM
>To: Oldsmobile
>Subject: Engine knocking
>
>
>All,
>Since I havent purchased my new engine just yet, I thought id ask the
>list's opinion on something. I have a bone stock 1970 Olds 98. I heard
>the engine knocking form the bottom of the block, plus a little
>screeching noise once or twice about every 4 minutes from the bottom as
>well. I drove the car for about 8 miles after I heard the knocking. The
>knocking did not get any worse. As soon as I got home I pulled the valve
>covers and there is no oil coming up through the pushrods. Im thinking I
>spun a bearing or something to that effect.
>
>Now, Im trying to figure out should I just buy a new engine orrrrr
>should I pull the old engine and take it to a machine shop to get fixed.
>Now money is definately a problem here so I am hoping i can save this
>engine. My question is...does anyone think this engine is worth taking
>to the shop to see if it can get saved or should I just count on having
>to trash it. It ran fine after it started knocking, just the knocking
>noise and no oil through the pushrods. It wasnt pinging or anything. I
>will be doing all this engine pulling in the street so if its probably
>trashed i wouldnt try taking the engine out and taking it to the machine
>shop, id just buy a new one. The shop does pretty good work. One of my
>neighbors had his 67 Stang 302 rebuilt for  $500 (he took all his parts
>and the engine up there still assembled) and he hasnt had any trouble yet.
>
>paulbunyan
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 12:04:17 -0500
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Re: What's an NOS 1970 OAI W30 hood worth?

On Monday March 8th Chris Witt wrote:

>Any idea what an NOS 1970 OAI W30 hood might go for?
>It's new, has screen, never painted or installed.

Last time I checked with Ron's Classic Cutlass, he told me that it should be in 
the $3,000 range.  Also you may want to check with Thornton. At the last 
Lansing OCA meet they were interested in purchasing one of my 71-72 NOS OAI 
hoods, but that was several years ago. 

Best wishes, 
Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:35:18 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Looking for parts

>Have a club friend with a nice '70 Vista Cruiser.  The right (pass) grille 
>has 1 fin broken out of it, in about the middle.  He needs a junk grille to 
>pull 1 piece out of and epoxy into his.  Anybody have 1 cheap?

Has he tried just fabricating one? Hobby stores sell sheet stock plastic and 
balsa wood in various widths; if it's not a large area of damage, he might 
be able to make up a replacement piece and paint it to match. A neighbor of 
ours did a really nice repair to a '71 F*rd Galaxie grille this way.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Store more e-mails with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage – 4 plans to choose from! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4807
*********************************
