
oldsmobile-digest        Friday, May 21 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4897



Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end
RE: engine block weights
Re: engine block weights
Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line
scapping the Gt on hold
RE: scapping the Gt on hold
Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984
UNBOUNCE: '70 Toro Tire Valve Stems
Re: scapping the Gt on hold
Re: engine block weights
(Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info
Re: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info
Re: tips & trix
RE: engine block weights
Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end
1957 Fi /1964 442 /1954 F88/1954 Cutlass pics
Old Olds pics..they work this time
Re: 1957 Fi /1964 442 /1954 F88/1954 Cutlass pics
sale??
hood adjustment
RE: UNBOUNCE: '70 Toro Tire Valve Stems
RE: hood adjustment
Re: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info
Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984
RE: hood adjustment
RE: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info
RE: hood adjustment
Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 Toro Tire Valve Stems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 09:10:23 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end

> contact Brian Trick, 507olds on ROP.  Sorry, I don't have an 
> email address handy. 
>  
> Chris
> grp442@yahoo.com

Brian can be reached at bltrick@aol.com

I'm not sure what the benefit of an all-new rearend is. I mean, 
when you rebuilt your engine, did you get a new block and crank? 
Replacing the bearings, seals, gears and maybe the axle shafts 
(if you're going to throw an incredible amount of torque at it) 
should be sufficient.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 09:13:44 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: engine block weights

> Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 21:40:21 -0400
> From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
> Subject: engine block weights
> 
> Does anyone know the weight of a '66-'67 400 bare block and a 
> '68-'69 400
> bare block?
> TIA
> 
> Kurt

I actually have a bare '67 400 block in the workshop right now, but I 
don't have any means of weighing it. If I can figure something out I'll 
let you know.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 09:27:37 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: engine block weights

> I actually have a bare '67 400 block in the workshop right now, but I
> don't have any means of weighing it. If I can figure something out I'll
> let you know.


Put a piece of wood on a bathroom scale used to weigh your body and set the
block on that. Read the weight on the scale. Then, subtract the weight of
the wood.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 10:54:33 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: looking for 68-71 350 4bbl fuel pump to carb line

Hi Chris,

I wrote:
> So, just to be clear, Greg Rollin(s), former list member ...

chris smetana wrote:
> 1. I agree Greg is a great guy.  and it's Rollin, no s.

He used to sign his emails "Greg Rollin (no s)" so I have called him 
Gregs Rollin and Greg Rollsin and things like that just to be a SA.

Good luck getting your line, BTW: I've always wondered why the 
Oldsmobile engine with the thermostat housing right in front of the carb 
was the engine that has the Q-Jet with the fuel inlet in the front.  I 
have other Q-Jets with the side fuel inlet and they would seem to be an 
easier fit.

Have a good one,
- --

Cliff "no g, no r, but an s" Simpson & Kermit
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 16:11:32 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: scapping the Gt on hold

Hi All
    Well scrapping my 70 GT is on hold for now. I found a guy locally 
who restores older cars and is an Olds nut. He had a 70 toro in front of 
his shop. That is why I stopped there in the first place. He says my car 
is still fixable if I can come up with some parts. I'm working on that 
already. His total estimate including all over paint is around 6K.That 
is not a whole lot more than I figured to spend before it got hit. I 
have a line on a rear bumper (with cut outs) and a possible 1/4 panel. I 
need a left tail light lens and the left rear marker light (its in the 
bumper) any one got anything to sell or any ideas where to look. I still 
have to check this guy out. The usual BBB and some references and a 
chance to see some finished work.
thanks
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 15:26:37 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: scapping the Gt on hold

If you still have your old bumper, you can get it rechromed, no matter what the condition that it is in.  Here is a quote from http://www.desertdogautoparts.com/bumper.html.

"We will accept ANY one piece bumper, no matter how smashed, crushed, flat, torn or damaged it is, as long as it is solid and NOT rotted! We strip it, straighten it using factory dies, copper-nickel-chrome plate it prior to polishing. Each bumper comes with a full 3 year guarantee, all for $250.00! If your bumper has rot, we can restore that also! We charge $50.00 per patch to weld it. We also restore MULTIPLE piece bumpers! Call for pricing. "

I got a bumper from them a few years ago and was happy with it.  It was not show quality, but very nice.

     mike


Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 17:14:17 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984

I have seen and talked to the owner of a very nice Delta 88- 1982 - she
looked just like the Caprice, had the 307 and left me with regret that she
was on sale :-((
Was there a change of a model between 82 and 84?
TIA
Matt

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984


> > Are there any differences between the Chevrolet Caprice and the
Oldsmobile
> > DELTA88 ROYA L? 1984?
> > I find that the Delta is narrower and taller than the so famous
Caprice..
>
> Dimensionally, the two cars are very close.  Less than an inch difference
in
> most places.  They are, of course, both B bodies.  The Olds had different
> styling, typically a much fancier interior, and an Olds drivetrain if the
V8
> was ordered.  Yes, a 350, 403, 455 etc. is a fairly straightforward swap.
>
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 19:01:29 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '70 Toro Tire Valve Stems

Not on the list, respond to trphackett@comcast.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "T. Hackett" <trphackett@comcast.net>
Subject: 1970 Toronado tire valve stems

I have leaking tire valve stems and can't find replacements. Anyone have 
any ideas?

Tom Hackett

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 19:06:31 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: scapping the Gt on hold

Mike Schlottman wrote:

> If you still have your old bumper, you can get it rechromed, no matter what the condition that it is in.  Here is a quote from http://www.desertdogautoparts.com/bumper.html.
> 
> "We will accept ANY one piece bumper, no matter how smashed, crushed, flat, torn or damaged it is, as long as it is solid and NOT rotted! We strip it, straighten it using factory dies, copper-nickel-chrome plate it prior to polishing. Each bumper comes with a full 3 year guarantee, all for $250.00! If your bumper has rot, we can restore that also! We charge $50.00 per patch to weld it. We also restore MULTIPLE piece bumpers! Call for pricing. "
> 
> I got a bumper from them a few years ago and was happy with it.  It was not show quality, but very nice.
> 
>      mike
> 
> 
> Mike Schlottman
> Sr. Systems Administrator
> Society of Petroleum Engineers
> 222 Palisades Creek Drive 
> Richardson, TX 75083
> 972-952-9382
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
Thanks Mike
      Its pretty rusted out on each end. I have no plans to show the car 
but I hope to get a better core. I found a guy on another forum who has 
part of a 70GT left. He just wants the engine, Tells me that the car is 
junk for the most part but the bumper is solid. Needs rechroming. We are 
making arrangements to get together on this.
Thanks
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 16:30:27 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: engine block weights

I'm glad I read that twice. : )
Step on bathroom scale.  Recored your body weight.  Step on scale again 
while holding block.
Is it Friday yet???

M

At 09:27 AM 5/20/2004 -0700, Milton wrote:
>Put a piece of wood on a bathroom scale used to weigh your body and set the
>block on that. Read the weight on the scale. Then, subtract the weight of
>the wood.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 20:30:13 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info

Listmembers,

I recently bought a 1985 GMC pickup to use as a trailer-tower once I get it 
fixed up.  As I was disassembling the interior (seat fire, slight damage to 
wiring and requiring replacement of interior -- parts truck providing interior) I 
found two "computers" -- one above the A/C ductwork, P/N 16042121 and one 
over near the throttle pedal, P/N 25031953.  Does anyone know what these actually 
do?

To give you a little background info, this truck has the 700R4 transmission, 
305 V-8 and cruise control.  I intend to replace the 305 with a Brand C 350 
that's ready to assemble and remove any extraneous doo-dads that aren't needed: 
emissions garbage and the like.  The QJ had an electrical connector on the top 
of it, so one of these might be something related to the CCC we've discussed 
before.  Could the other be associated with the 700R4?

With the exception of the cab fire (which isn't really bad, someone had 
already started the repairs half-heartedly) and needing some TLC (silver paint, 
need I say more?) the truck's in pretty good shape, and will be far superior to 
the Uggy Truck (a 1970 C-10 that has those pesky rear coil springs) for trailer 
towing.  With overdrive, it'll definitely get better gas mileage!

Thanks for the assistance, and Take Care!
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 01:02:19 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info

At 08:30 PM 5/20/2004 EDT, you wrote:
>Listmembers,
>
>I recently bought a 1985 GMC pickup......
.......
>found two "computers" -- one above the A/C ductwork, P/N 16042121 

That one is the ECM for the emission/ignition/carburetion system. It's in
an aluminum box with two many-wire plugs, no?

>one over near the throttle pedal, P/N 25031953.

I'd have to check but if this one is a light green plastic box roughly 3" x
1" thick x 4" long with a single-row of about a dozen wires in the
connector, it's the electronic cruise control.

There was another similar but smaller plastic box near the steery column
which was called the "Convenience Center" on the Olds vehicles. This
contains that nice-sounding bell that warns you've left the lights on or
the ignition key inserted. Its bell took the place of that
horrendous-sounding, screechy buzzer used on GMs up until 1984.

>To give you a little background info, this truck has the 700R4 transmission, 
>305 V-8 and cruise control.

Yup, the 2nd box you found is the cruise control.

>I intend to replace the 305 with a Brand C 350 that's ready to assemble 
>and remove any extraneous doo-dads that aren't needed: emissions garbage 
>and the like.  The QJ had an electrical connector on the top of it, so 
>one of these might be something related to the CCC we've discussed 
>before.

I think most of us with any experience with these '80s CCC systems would
strongly recommend that you NOT disconnect the present CCC system. Besides
giving you excellent performance under just about all environmental
conditions, it also gives you the best gas mileage. It's a VERY reliable
and high-performance system compared to just a mechanical carburetor.

>Could the other be associated with the 700R4?

No, the 700R4 did not use a computer. The later 4L60E did, and would be a
good upgrade if you can afford one. The "E" means electronic control. The
700R4 was actually known by GM as the 4L60.

>With overdrive, it'll definitely get better gas mileage!

It'll definitely give the best overall performance and mileage with the CCC
system working properly again. I strongly encourage you to do a bit of
research into just what the system actually does, and how simple it really
is. Many folks just willy-nilly yank the dang thang out along with all
vacuum hoses, not realizing that there are actually three or four
independent vacuum systems on GM engines from about '74 on up. The computer
actually did not add more than a cupla vacuum hoses. Instead, the computer
actually fine-tuned already-existing vacuum systems that had been in use
for the most part of a decade. These include such as the canister purge
which absorbs excess fuel vapors from the fuel tank and carburetor
(preventing your car from smelling like gas after sitting in the sun on a
hot day); the EGR, which actually allows advanced ignition timing and thus
increased performance and gas mileage; on some vehicles, the EFE which is
the flapper valve in the driver's exhaust manifold that blocks the left
exhaust to redirect it under the carburetor, thus warming up the carb and
intake manifold faster on really cold days and so allowing better
performance and gas mileage more quickly than ever before; and the AIR
pump, which doesn't hurt performance or gas mileage at all but does keep
your exhaust smelling cleaner, sooner, after starting the engine cold.

Take the time to read up on these '80s systems and see just how simple they
really are; then you may decide they provide more benefit than ripping them
off would.

As for your cruise control: just leave it alone. It's FAR better than the
older system used before 1984 and highly reliable. When it gives trouble,
the problem is almost always due to the throttle transducer developing a
pinhole or rip in the rubber diaphragm, which you can get from another
vehicle, including an Olds (but you'll have to use the bracket from your
Ch*bby).

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 01:09:45 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: tips & trix

At 08:38 PM 5/17/2004 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 5/17/04 7:34:52 PM Central Daylight Time, k0xp@dandy.net 
>writes:
>-- I also need to get a plug for my 200-4R's output. Don't have a spare
yoke, 
>unfortunately  ;o( --
>
>Steve,
>
>Look in a Summit or Jeg's catalog (possibly even in a local parts store that 
>does some high-perf sales), several companies sell a plastic plug that can 
>take the place of the driveshaft yoke.
>
>I need to look myself, all too often I've wished I had one.......

Uhhh... somebody offered to give me a spare plug but I must have deleted
your e-mail. Anyway... thanks, but I'll go ahead and buy a cupla from
Jeg's. Didn't remember they were available from them  ;o\

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 22:07:49 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: engine block weights

Thanks for the ideas.  FWIW, a friend weighed a '66 E 400 block and came up
with 196 lbs.

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space
> Systems, Inc.
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 11:28 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: engine block weights
>
>
> > I actually have a bare '67 400 block in the workshop right now, but I
> > don't have any means of weighing it. If I can figure something out I'll
> > let you know.
>
>
> Put a piece of wood on a bathroom scale used to weigh your body
> and set the
> block on that. Read the weight on the scale. Then, subtract the weight of
> the wood.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 19:43:57 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Reman / aftermarket rear end

>I'm not sure what the benefit of an all-new rearend is. I mean,
>when you rebuilt your engine, did you get a new block and crank?

If you had a straight six in there - probably yes.

That's my situation. I don't have much to work with. Likely my rear is 
pontiac or buick. It isn't an olds rear or a chevy rear. So no sense in 
keeping it. So, instead of buying a used posi for $500 and having to 
rebuild it from scratch, a completely redone or new unit seems reasonable.

Just like buying a long block 455 to replace that straight six!

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 02:12:26 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: 1957 Fi /1964 442 /1954 F88/1954 Cutlass pics

Hello
Check out this experimental fuel injection on a 57

http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/2619699.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&dareq=4C061E5F4257424A46584A5F425F

 Also this 64 Concept

http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/2619699.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&dareq=4C061E5F4257424A46584A5F425F

This 54 F88 is kewl

http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/1897267.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&dareq=4C061E5F41594A444257445F425F

I think the 54 Cutlass is my fav,prolly cause i own a Saturn gold 72 :)

http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/2508371.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&dareq=4C061E5F4254434B4356425F425F

This 56 Golden rocket Olds sure looks like a vet rear winder..

http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/1897592.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&dareq=4C061E5F41594A444558415F425F

I think i should go to bed and quit dreamin..
Drive safe!
Wandy H.
Maple Syrup B.C.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 02:25:24 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Old Olds pics..they work this time

Hello
Lets try this agin

57 FI pic..

http://www.gmphotostore.com/source/Detail.aspx?L1=GM%20Collections&L2=12773&imageId=2619699&action=&ss=

64 Concept

http://www.gmphotostore.com/source/Detail.aspx?L1=GM%20Collections&L2=12115&imageId=2619646&action=&ss=

56 Golden rocket with vet rear winder?

http://www.gmphotostore.com/source/Detail.aspx?L1=GM%20Collections&L2=12115&imageId=1897592&action=&ss=

54 F88 

http://www.gmphotostore.com/source/Detail.aspx?L1=GM%20Collections&L2=12115&imageId=1897267&action=&ss=

54 Cutlass..Saturn Gold?

http://www.gmphotostore.com/source/Detail.aspx?L1=GM%20Collections&L2=12115&imageId=2508371&action=&ss=

Sorry it took me two posts to git it right :O
Randy(needs sleep)H.



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 00:04:02 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 1957 Fi /1964 442 /1954 F88/1954 Cutlass pics

Randy,

You've got the same URL on these 2. The '64 didn't come up.

> Check out this experimental fuel injection on a 57
>
>
http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/2619699.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&da
req=4C061E5F4257424A46584A5F425F
>
>  Also this 64 Concept
>
>
http://delivery.gettyimages.com/comp/2619699.jpg?x=x&dasite=POD&ef=1&ev=1&da
req=4C061E5F4257424A46584A5F425F


Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 09:13:52 -0400
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: sale??

   to all,
    I don't know if this is allowed, but I have a complete set up for sale
of
JetAway and console with shifter, cable clip, cable. Console is in great
shape,
its black. The tranny was rebuilt about 20K miles ago, with new torque
converter,
stock. Asking 500.00 for all, plus shipping. You can get me at
olds330@earthlink.com or jorr@paylessequipment.com
thanks,
john
67 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 08:38:57 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: hood adjustment

On my 70 442, the back of the hood sits about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to high.  Coincidently there is a wedge shaped shim between the hood and the hinge at the back mounting bolt.  

I may be asking the simplest question ever, but is that shim used to adjust the level of the hood?  Are there different thicknesses of this shim available?  What is the worst thing that could happen if I remove it?

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 13:39:18 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: UNBOUNCE: '70 Toro Tire Valve Stems

>Subject: 1970 Toronado tire valve stems
>
>I have leaking tire valve stems and can't find replacements. Anyone have
>any ideas?

Just out of curiosity, what's so special about tire stems for a 1970 Toro?

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 13:59:12 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: hood adjustment

>I may be asking the simplest question ever, but is that shim used to adjust
>the level of the hood?  Are there different thicknesses of this shim 
>available?

I would assume so, although I haven't owned that specific model.

>What is the worst thing that could happen if I remove it?

I think it's highly unlikely, but since you ask: Removing the shim will 
result in the bolt(s) protruding further through the attachment point, by 
the distance of that shim. In an extreme case, bolts which are now too long 
due to the shim's removal could dimple the underside of the hood by 
bottoming out against it.

As I said, I doubt the geometry (and the dimensional tolerance) of the parts 
involved is going to let that happen, but it never hurts to check everything 
twice... (three times if you're sawing something off :-)

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 13:52:50 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info

>There was another similar but smaller plastic box near the steery column
>which was called the "Convenience Center" on the Olds vehicles. This
>contains that nice-sounding bell that warns you've left the lights on or
>the ignition key inserted. Its bell took the place of that
>horrendous-sounding, screechy buzzer used on GMs up until 1984.

IIRC, that box is orange.

>Take the time to read up on these '80s systems and see just how simple they
>really are; then you may decide they provide more benefit than ripping them
>off would.

Yes! Well said. I spend _far_ more time repairing previous owners' 
"improvements" than I do actually fixing original factory setups that have 
gone wrong.

>As for your cruise control: just leave it alone. It's FAR better than the
>older system used before 1984 and highly reliable. When it gives trouble,
>the problem is almost always due to the throttle transducer developing a
>pinhole or rip in the rubber diaphragm, which you can get from another
>vehicle, including an Olds (but you'll have to use the bracket from your
>Ch*bby).

I was surprised to discover on the in-laws' old '84 Regal that despite its 
old control systems (e.g. carburetor rather than fuel-injection; minimal 
computer control), its cruise control was highly accurate, which each press 
of the Resume/Accelerate tab getting me precisely 1 mph increases, and each 
press of the Set/Decelerate button on the end of the turn-signal lever 
getting me precisely 1 mph decreases.

This made transitioning from one speed zone to another trivial: if I needed 
a 5 mpg increase, I could just tap the Resume/Accelerate slide tab five 
times, and the car glided up in speed by exactly 5 mph. I know the digital 
controls on my '93 SSEi can do the same thing with ease, but I didn't know 
the 1984 technology could do it, too.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 23:39:08 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile DELTA88 ROYAL 1984

> I have seen and talked to the owner of a very nice Delta 88- 1982 - she
> looked just like the Caprice, had the 307 and left me with regret that she
> was on sale :-((
> Was there a change of a model between 82 and 84?

- ------------------------------------

The same basic body was used from 1980 through 1985 with minor trim changes
each year.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 14:35:59 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: hood adjustment

>>What is the worst thing that could happen if I remove it?
>
>I think it's highly unlikely, but since you ask: Removing the shim will 
>result in the bolt(s) protruding further through the attachment point, by 
>the distance of that shim. In an extreme case, bolts which are now too long 
>due to the shim's removal could dimple the underside of the hood by 
>bottoming out against it.

P.S. I forgot to mention that if the shape of the shim will allow it, you 
can avoid even this remote problem by relocating the shim under the bolt 
heads rather than removing it altogether. That is, instead of having it 
between the hinge and the hood, trap it between the bolt heads and the 
hinge, so the only things that it's actually shimming out are the bolts 
themselves.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with the new version of MSN Messenger! Download today - 
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 10:47:05 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: (Non-Olds) GMC Computer Modules Info

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green [mailto:acg_o@hotmail.com]

>There was another similar but smaller plastic box near the steery column
>which was called the "Convenience Center" on the Olds vehicles. This
>contains that nice-sounding bell that warns you've left the lights on or
>the ignition key inserted. Its bell took the place of that
>horrendous-sounding, screechy buzzer used on GMs up until 1984.

>>IIRC, that box is orange.

Mine was red on the '86. I removed it in 1991 after it sounded like a toy with half-dead batteries, ringing when it wanted to (kind of like a screechy buzzer ;o)).


I also went through a replacement of the other box/circuit board in discussion - for the cruise control - also about 1991. Cruise lasted about 4 years, then the servo went out. I drove without cruise for several years, replaced the servo when I did my rebuild two years ago - cruise still no worky. Something else has failed/died in the interim while it wasn't being used. The service manual has a good but lengthy troubleshooting guide, but I haven't been impressed with the electro-pneumatic system of the mid 80's. Late 70's was less accurate, more reliable. 90's - more reliable, more accurate.

Eric Holcombe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 09:46:49 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: hood adjustment

The shims are wedge shaped.  If the hood is sitting flat against the hinge and the shim was between the bolt and the hinge, the bolt would only touch one side of the shim.  This is not really an issue though, the bolt is not that long.

    Thanks
    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Andrew C. Green [mailto:acg_o@hotmail.com]
 > Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 9:36 AM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: RE: hood adjustment
 > 
 > 
 > >>What is the worst thing that could happen if I remove it?
 > >
 > >I think it's highly unlikely, but since you ask: Removing 
 > the shim will 
 > >result in the bolt(s) protruding further through the 
 > attachment point, by 
 > >the distance of that shim. In an extreme case, bolts which 
 > are now too long 
 > >due to the shim's removal could dimple the underside of the hood by 
 > >bottoming out against it.
 > 
 > P.S. I forgot to mention that if the shape of the shim will 
 > allow it, you 
 > can avoid even this remote problem by relocating the shim 
 > under the bolt 
 > heads rather than removing it altogether. That is, instead 
 > of having it 
 > between the hinge and the hood, trap it between the bolt 
 > heads and the 
 > hinge, so the only things that it's actually shimming out 
 > are the bolts 
 > themselves.
 > 
 > -- Andy
 > 
 > _________________________________________________________________
 > Express yourself with the new version of MSN Messenger! 
 > Download today - 
 > it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 12:27:39 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 Toro Tire Valve Stems

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>> Subject: 1970 Toronado tire valve stems
>>
>> I have leaking tire valve stems and can't find replacements. Anyone have
>> any ideas?
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what's so special about tire stems for a 1970 Toro?
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
> 
> 
> 
Andy,
   That valve stem is a bolt in and sightly bent style used from 66 thru 
78. I just got some from my local NAPA store. They are sold in sets of 5 
and are about $8.00 each. None of the local tire shops had any.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4897
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