
oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 17 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4891



Allen and Milton. Thanks.
Re: Need a door lock part
Re: cutlass s
Re: tuning with a vacuum gage
Re: Need a door lock part
One of those days
Re: tuning with a vacuum gage
Re: One of those days
Michael Ecker 403 heads on a 350
Engine Swap - Part One
wild ride in the merry Olds
Re: Door lock clips
wild ride in the merry Olds
One of those days
Re: Door lock clips
RE: wild ride in the merry Olds
Re: cutlass s
!966 Dynamic convertible windshield needed
Re: carb for the 468 street engine
RE: wild ride in the merry Olds
Re: cutlass s
RE: wild ride in the merry Olds
58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD
Re: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD
58s times/1968 Cutlass and 58 pics
Re: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD
79 Lincoln... cheap
RE: R12 to R134 startup
Re: 58s times/1968 Cutlass and 58 pics

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 09:40:18 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Allen and Milton. Thanks.

I understood what you guys said, but it seems it is more $$ than it would be
worth. I can have the heads planed and magnafluxed for $50.00 but then I
would (for my reasoning) want to replace the head bolts. The posssibility of
stretching and time and where the engine is (engine pile) it would make
sense to do it right the first time. Thanks for your info and I will wait
until I can get #5,6, heads. As I posted earlier it is spring cleaning at
this yard, and if there is something that anyone needs, except body parts
for Cutlass,88, 98,Delta, (there are none) please let me know and I can
look.
Pat Swanton.



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: 403 heads on a 350


> I knwo milton, they are telling him that the 403 heads will lower the
> compression on the 350. I told him that he could have them machined to
lower
> the cc's of the heads. There by raising the compression back up. Guess I
> said it funny, I should have said "have them milled to raise the
> compression" instead of "lower the cc's"
>
> Allen Schwartz
> A&L Enterprises
> mycj@tds.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 1:45 PM
> Subject: Re: 403 heads on a 350
>
>
> > > $75 bucks at any machine shop(possibly less) can get those heads
> machined
> > > down to lower the cc's of them
> >
> >
> > Allen, if one machines down the head surface, the combustion chamber
> > decreases in size, ***raising*** the compression ratio. The only way to
> > decrease the compression ratio is to have someone CC the combustion
> chambers
> > and take out about 10+ CCs. That will cost much, much more than $75 and
> > requires a machine shop that knows how to do it.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 10:40:36 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Need a door lock part

>  '72 442 after paint.  I need the  plastic clips--fasteners that connect
the
>  interior door lock button rod to the lock mechanism.

Check the HELP! section of your local parts store. IIRC, Motormite/Dorman
still make them.

Randy


- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 11:05:48 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: cutlass s

> Hello does anybody know if you could get a 1970 Cutlass S W-31 with A/C??

No.


> Would it not be like a Rallye 350, they came with A/C.

No.  The Rallye 350 was a racy looking car with the standard Cutlass Supreme
350 4 barrel.  It was designed to look fast without giving the insurance
companies an excuse to charge muscle car prices.  The W-31 was a true
performance engine with a much more radical cam (not enough vacuum for power
brakes).  I doubt the driveability would have been acceptable with a/c.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 15:30:47 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: tuning with a vacuum gage

At 09:35 AM 5/16/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I've read that the best way to adjust idle air screws on a carb is to tune
>for maximum manifold vacuum. Can anyone give me the technical reason why
>this method gives the most correct idle mixture? The manual for my
>motorcycle says, "adjust for most stable idle", which is rather ambiguous.

If it's too lean, it will have slight "lean" misfire: it'll miss every now
and then. If it's too rich, the engine speed will slow down. So you adjust
them for the most consistent and highest idle without it showing lean
misfiring.

The Triumph is a little bit different in that it has separate carbs. The
best way to tune those is with individual vacuum gages. A small engine is a
LOT more sensitive to the idle mixture than big ones are and it's easier to
see fractional-turn differences.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 15:18:10 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Need a door lock part

At 05:53 PM 5/15/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I am also working on assembling our '72 442 after paint.  I need the 
>plastic clips--fasteners that connect the interior door lock button rod to 
>the lock mechanism.  The piece is at the bottom of the vertical lock rod, 
>is plastic. and the AZ heat has cooked both left and right sides.  Any 
>known suppliers?

Try the HELP!!! plastic blister packs at your parts store. Then your dealer.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 11:34:06 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: One of those days

16 May 2004  "The General" <patton442@verizon.net> writes:

>     Something I learned - when you  buy a classic Olds,  from 
> say like 64-80, budget $1000.00 extra. Buy all new suspension 
> parts, brake lines, hoses, calipers and cylinders. Before you 
> drive it anywhere, tear it all down and replace all off the
> afore mentioned parts. 

> The General       patton442@verizon.net

This is very good advice.  All my cars were built between 1979 
and 1981.  Bruce (may drive 2200 miles on a weekend) Roe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 11:26:05 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: tuning with a vacuum gage

There are 2 ways to correctly set idle mixture screws in a carb.

1) By tachometer. Turn the first idle screw inward until the screw gently
touches the seat or the engine starts to stumble. Turn the idle screw
outward until the highest engine RPM is reached. Then turn the idle screw
outward for 25-50 more RPM for best performance. Repeat the procedure for
the second idle screw. Now, the actual engine idle can be reset properly on
the carb side linkage.

2) By vacuum. Turn the first idle screw inward until the screw gently
touches the seat or the engine starts to stumble. Turn the idle screw
outward until the highest engine vacuum is reached. Repeat the procedure for
the second idle screw. Now, the actual engine idle RPM can be reset properly
on the carb side linkage.

These procedures work perfectly on 2-barrels, 4-barrels, 3-2-barrels, dual
quads, or any number of carbs one may be using.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:35:11 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: One of those days

At 11:34 AM 5/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>This is very good advice.  All my cars were built between 1979 
>and 1981.  Bruce (may drive 2200 miles on a weekend) Roe

Uhhh... ifn you drive up to 2200 miles just on a weekend, just how much
might you drive during the other five days  ====================8-O

Steve  :o) H

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 15:42:08 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Michael Ecker 403 heads on a 350

Michael, thank you for the reply. I was busy cruising the yard and I haven't
been able to find any #5, 7 or 7a heads. It seems the hunt for the cheap $$
I will pay at this yard, (I do all his head work) will be a worth while
wait.  I have been waiting all winter for him to spring clean his yard. I am
going to save myself for the real golden find. LOL! I know that it is not
easy to find these heads, but I have the time to search and the info from
the list is a big help. Thank you again for the info!
Again, if there are any strange parts that you or anyone else need please
don't hesitate to ask.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Ecker" <ecker567@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 5:32 PM
Subject: RE: 403 heads on a 350


> Pat, the 403 heads will lower your compression on your 350, and would
> necessitate stepping up to 1/2" head bolts or studs.
>
> I would recommend looking for a set of #5, #6, #7 or #7a 350 heads as
> they will increase compression and flow well.  The 7a heads are fitted
> with hardened exhaust seats from the factory for use with unleaded gas,
> but the other heads can have hardened seats installed.  Personally I
> have never had a problem running unleaded gas with #5 or #7 heads with
> the factory (unhardened) seats, but I thought I'd mention this point.
> The #5 heads are claimed to be the best flowing in stock form, but all
> of these heads flow well.
>
> Note that the 403 heads only have 1.5" exhaust valves (although they
> have 2.0" intakes).  The #8 heads have 1.625" exhaust valves and 1.875"
> intakes.  The other 350 heads I mentioned have 1.875" intakes and 1.562"
> exhaust valves, unless you can find a set of factory high performance
> heads which had 2.0" intakes and 1.625" exhausts.  These latter valve
> sizes can be retrofit into any of the 350 heads with some port work to
> open and blend the throat and bowl areas.  While you are at it, some
> minor smoothing & blending of the ports and bowl area, tear-drop shaping
> of the valve guides, and port matching to the gaskets and manifolds will
> pay performance dividends.  I also recommend good quality head fasteners
> such as ARP bolts or studs, and good quality head gaskets.
>
> If you are looking for a performace boost on a budget and don't rev too
> high, the 5A heads from an early 307 will give a nice compression boost
> and flow decently, but only have 1.75" intakes and 1.5" exhausts, and I
> have heard that opening up these heads for large valves can be risky as
> far as cracking and running into the water jacket - have never tried
> modifying the 307 heads myself.
>
> HTH,
> Michael Ecker
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:08:58 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Engine Swap - Part One

It was a rainy day today, so I decided to get the 442 ready for the
engine transplant. The dyno'ed 455 is ready and waiting. Started up top
first: drained the radiator, disconnected the trans lines and hoses,
removed the PS pump, alternator, fan, shroud, carb, fittings, linkages,
distributor.

Went underneath, removed the TC bolts, exhaust pipes, engine to tranny
bolts, motor mount bolts, starter.

A couple of tips for those thinking about doing this:

1. Get an assortment of cap plugs. The plastic plugs that you can use
for the tranny lines, fuel pump, and, most importantly, the hole where
the trans dipstick goes. You have to pull this to access one of the
engine to tranny bolts. If you don't have a plug, about a half quart of
fluid will spill out.

2. The engine to tranny bolts (6) are easy to remove except for 2 of
them. You will need a universal joint for your socket

3. Tie the exhaust pipes to the cross member with tie wraps. Keeps them
out of the way.

4. Label all the wires and vacuum hoses. Makes the assembly job go much
faster.

>From start to finish, it took about 4 hours.

No broken bolts, no injuries, no problems.

The new engine goes in Saturday........

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 hardtop
OCA # 31967

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:31:44 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: wild ride in the merry Olds

Just something to laugh about...

I drove my Olds Ninety Eight last night for the first time since November.
Let me tell you, there is quite a difference in handling between that and my
MR2 Spyder. My brother who is a police officer followed me. He said that if
he hadn't known better, he would have thought that I was drunk by the way I
was taking the turns. Wide turns followed by over-compensating. It really
was like steering a boat compared to my other car. I thought it was pretty
funny and lots of fun to have the big car out again. Unfortunately I still
have to sell it because I can't continue paying for storage for it, and it
can only stay where it is for a couple of months max. It has over 900 hits
on ebay and the auction closes tonight. I really hope it sells, and if last
night's ride turns out to be the last time I drive it, I'll remember it as a
fun last drive.

John Nasta

p.s I now have pix of the engine bay and trunk if anybody is interested. I
washed it today, and like a dummy did not take more pix of the exterior,
especially w/ the top up (people have asked for that). Hopefully it won't
matter.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 15:41:47 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Door lock clips

This post was "lost" in the jumbled up mess in the last digest:


I am restoring a '72 442 hardtop.  I need the plastic clips that attach the 
interior door lock button ROD to the lock mechanism.  Mine were done in by 
the AZ heat.  Any ideas?

Thanks,

Joe Varley
OCA # 1448. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:27:59 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: wild ride in the merry Olds

That happened to me once, driving a low mileage, 20 year old 
car.  I convinced them I wasn't drinking, though.  Although the 
metal joints were like new, I had to replace all the mushy 
rubber bushings (and some other things) in the suspension 
to get it to drive right.  

Bruce Roe

16 May 2004 "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com> writes:
> Just something to laugh about...
> 
> I drove my Olds Ninety Eight last night for the first time since 
> November.   Let me tell you, there is quite a difference in 
> handling between that and my MR2 Spyder. My brother who 
> is a police officer followed me. He said that if he hadn't known 
> better, he would have thought that I was drunk by the way I
> was taking the turns. Wide turns followed by over-
> compensating. It really
> was like steering a boat compared to my other car. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 18:28:21 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: One of those days

The 2200 mi is my IL-NH (7 states) run.  A weekend ago the 
403/THM400 switch pitch and I did 1600 miles (4 states).  
Durring the week is more like 400 miles.  Bruce Roe


16 May 2004 Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net> writes:
> 5/16/2004, you wrote:
> >This is very good advice.  All my cars were built between 1979 
> >and 1981.  Bruce (may drive 2200 miles on a weekend) Roe
> 
> Uhhh... ifn you drive up to 2200 miles just on a weekend, just how 
> much might you drive during the other five days
> 
> Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 23:14:09 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Door lock clips

At 03:41 PM 5/16/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>This post was "lost" in the jumbled up mess in the last digest:
>
>
>I am restoring a '72 442 hardtop.  I need the plastic clips that attach the 
>interior door lock button ROD to the lock mechanism.  Mine were done in by 
>the AZ heat.  Any ideas?

Actually, it wasn't lost and you got two replies, both suggesting you check
the HELP!! plastic blister packages at your local parts store. Also try
your dealer.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 19:20:16 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: wild ride in the merry Olds

There's nothing wrong with the car. It's just that I'm not used to driving
it any more. It's a big difference going from a 2,000 pound car that is
probably about 12 feet long and has tight steering to a 4,500 pond car that
is 19 feet long and has a 50 foot turn diameter (literally).

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of bcroe@juno.com
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 7:28 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: wild ride in the merry Olds

That happened to me once, driving a low mileage, 20 year old
car.  I convinced them I wasn't drinking, though.  Although the
metal joints were like new, I had to replace all the mushy
rubber bushings (and some other things) in the suspension
to get it to drive right.

Bruce Roe

16 May 2004 "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com> writes:
> Just something to laugh about...
>
> I drove my Olds Ninety Eight last night for the first time since
> November.   Let me tell you, there is quite a difference in
> handling between that and my MR2 Spyder. My brother who
> is a police officer followed me. He said that if he hadn't known
> better, he would have thought that I was drunk by the way I
> was taking the turns. Wide turns followed by over-
> compensating. It really
> was like steering a boat compared to my other car.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 20:49:33 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: cutlass s

- --part1_1a9.2434e9ae.2dd9661d_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

back in 1970, you could special order just about anything from the factory
 fred

- --part1_1a9.2434e9ae.2dd9661d_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">back in 1970, you could special ord=
er just about anything from the factory<BR>
 fred</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_1a9.2434e9ae.2dd9661d_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 17:58:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: !966 Dynamic convertible windshield needed

Hello Anyone have or know where I can get a front
windshield for a Dynamic convertible?  Thanks, Ken


	
		
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 21:52:11 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: carb for the 468 street engine

Thanks Allen for the info, I will get in touch with him
Matt
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: carb for the 468 street engine


> I had a quadrajet built by Dean Oliver deano@classicnet.net  An he is
great....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 23:17:48 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: wild ride in the merry Olds

Wife is not so cool about it being here. Hope it sells quickly. Listened to
yours being here and that my son shattered the rear passenger side window on
the Buick with a projectile from the weed whacker. Not a good day.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 6:32 PM
To: Olds Mailing List
Subject: wild ride in the merry Olds


Just something to laugh about...

I drove my Olds Ninety Eight last night for the first time since November.
Let me tell you, there is quite a difference in handling between that and my
MR2 Spyder. My brother who is a police officer followed me. He said that if
he hadn't known better, he would have thought that I was drunk by the way I
was taking the turns. Wide turns followed by over-compensating. It really
was like steering a boat compared to my other car. I thought it was pretty
funny and lots of fun to have the big car out again. Unfortunately I still
have to sell it because I can't continue paying for storage for it, and it
can only stay where it is for a couple of months max. It has over 900 hits
on ebay and the auction closes tonight. I really hope it sells, and if last
night's ride turns out to be the last time I drive it, I'll remember it as a
fun last drive.

John Nasta

p.s I now have pix of the engine bay and trunk if anybody is interested. I
washed it today, and like a dummy did not take more pix of the exterior,
especially w/ the top up (people have asked for that). Hopefully it won't
matter.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 23:18:13 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: cutlass s

- -------------------------------1084763893
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 5/16/2004 8:54:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
DROLDS350@aol.com writes:
back in 1970, you could special order just about anything from the factory
   Had a 1970 Vista Cruiser parst car about 5 years ago with a W27 rear end, 
it was on the build sheet so we knew it was factory, so yes anything could be 
orderd back then

Everett  OCA# 1961    1961 Starfire

- -------------------------------1084763893
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 5/16/2004 8:54:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DROLDS35=
0@aol.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=
 PTSIZE=3D"10" FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">back in 1970, you could special order ju=
st about anything from the factory</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; Had a 1970 Vista Cruiser parst car about 5 years ago with=20=
a W27 rear end, it was on the build sheet so we knew it was factory, so yes=20=
anything could be orderd back then</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Everett&nbsp; OCA# 1961&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 1961 Starfire</DIV></BODY></H=
TML>

- -------------------------------1084763893--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 00:21:25 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: wild ride in the merry Olds

Gonna have to lower the price and re-list it. Lately it seems like the
universe is not in alignment unless I am taking a beating.

Sorry to hear about the Buick. I was wondering how that happened.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

Wife is not so cool about it being here. Hope it sells quickly. Listened to
yours being here and that my son shattered the rear passenger side window on
the Buick with a projectile from the weed whacker. Not a good day.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 01:05:00 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD

Hello
The 58s best time so far is 15.82@85.02mph.
She is tippin the scales at 4400 pds exactly!
I think i have squeezed as much as i can git outa her with out some changes.
I have heard doing a ign. sys change is a huge gain.
How much more will i get outa her with a alt. conversion from gen. and MSD usin the points as a trigger?
I would have to git someone else to help me with this as i always let out the magic smoke from wires then she wont werk no mo :(..LOL.
Was a beauty day racin!
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 22:25:07 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD

> How much more will i get outa her with a alt. conversion from gen. and MSD usin the points as a trigger?

Hard to say, I've never tested before and after. Generally though, If your points system is working well, I don't think
you would gain too much. I believe your points last alot longer though because the current demand is reduced. This is
merely speculative though as any points vehicle I've had has only had points long enough to get me to where I can throw
in an electronic ignition. Perhaps someone else can help more here.

> I would have to git someone else to help me with this as i always let out the magic smoke from wires then she wont
werk no mo :(..LOL.

Count me in, Bud. If there's cold beer in the fridge...I'm there.

> Was a beauty day racin!

Any day Racin is a Beauty....ain't it?

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 02:09:59 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: 58s times/1968 Cutlass and 58 pics

Hello
Rick,,,no i mean Ron...ah,,,Randy had written....
>>The 58s best time so far is 15.82@85.02mph."
correction,Make that 85.92 mph...its been a long day :O,,cant read no mo.
Took some 58 and 68 pics today....
this 68 looks like its gonna fly when she races down the track!
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1086707843719_0516_001.jpg 
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1085477537302_0516_004.jpg 
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1083917385084_0516_002.jpg 
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1085262608581_0516_003.jpg 
the 58
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1084485472821_0516_006.jpg 
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1083367151037_0516_005.jpg 
Lets see...drop the bumpers,,frt seat(get a light wieght racers chair)rear seat,hood,add MSD and a alt,=high 14s?
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 2004 23:14:00 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 58s best time 15.82/ Alt versus gen. and MSD

> > How much more will i get outa her with a alt. conversion from gen. and
MSD usin the points as a trigger?


It doesn't really matter much whether points or a magnetic lobe is the
trigger. With the magnetic lobe, there is no point system to bounce at
higher RPMs, which usually means above 5000. That means the distributor
timing will be right on with a magnetic trigger at high RPMs. However, if
the engine doesn't see anything over 5000, it can be a moot "point." :-)))

Where the MSD system makes more power, totally regardless if points or
magnetic is used, is the way the plug fires and how much voltage is at the
plug during the firing duration. With any stock system, the plug fires once
for a milli-arc-second degree at around 25,000 volts, and that's it. With a
MSD 6A system with a MSD Blaster coil, the plug fires in a series of rapid
multiples for 20 degrees of distributor rotor rotation at 45,000 volts. That
makes sure all air/fuel mass burns in the combustion chamber.

By the way, are you aware that a massive electromagnetic pulse, either from
the detonation of a nuclear weapon of from a directed energy weapon (the
cops are thinking about one to stop car engines), will stop any engine using
an electronic ignition but will have ***no*** affect on an engine that uses
a standard points distributor and ignition? Food for thought.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 07:34:51 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: 79 Lincoln... cheap

My brother is trying to get rid of his 79 Lincoln Continental Town Car. Big
and comfy, with a 400 c.i. 2 bbl. Drives goodly, suprisingly peppy for a big
boat. Body mostly straight, rust around the vinyl roof and on the
floorboards. He'll give it away for free to anyone willing to give it a new
home. It'd break his heart to junk it.

Anybody interested, please hit me off list. Car is in Wallingford,
Connecticut.

drc

david.cullen@snet.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 08:38:42 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: R12 to R134 startup

Hey Ron,   I just got my AC going again on the 70 442.  I'm curious how you got 37 degree air.  Is this with the AC on normal or max?  What was the outside temperature?   Was it day or night?

I'm  asking because I'm trying to figure out if I'm in the ballpark of the cooling I should be getting or if I still have some tweaking to do.  

Also, how much R-134 did you use?  

My vent temperatures are around 47 from the center vent with 80 ambient outside temps on a sunny day.  Cooler at night but I haven't measured it.  My system has a POA valve that I adjusted to get a lower low side pressure.  My low side is at 25 the high side is at 225.  I have about 2.75 pounds of R-134 in the system.  I think it could use more, but I don't know if it will help the cooling.

I'm considering a helper fan to keep the condenser cooler.

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: ron fama [mailto:77w30442@comcast.net]
 > Sent: Friday, May 14, 2004 5:54 AM
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Re: R12 to R134 startup
 > 
 > 
 > r-134a is a hell of a lot cheaper than 12 i just retro fit 
 > my 1977 olds  i love the 37deg air
 > flowing the a/c ducts
 > ron
 > ----- Original Message ----- 
 > From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
 > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
 > Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 3:33 PM
 > Subject: R12 to R134 startup
 > 
 > 
 > > Hello all-
 > >
 > > After trying thrice to get through with my School e-mail, 
 > not being able to
 > > make it simple text, I've opted to get a new e-mail 
 > address. Perhaps I can
 > > keep the spam down here.
 > >
 > > Minnesota still allows the sale of refrigerant, and our 
 > local K-mart is
 > > stocking it.  I might be moving soon to Wisconsin, where 
 > it isn't sold off
 > > the shelf and I wondered if it would be wise to pick some 
 > R-134 up before I
 > > left.
 > >
 > > I can get 12oz cans of R-134a for $5.79
 > > R-134 ester oil, 2oz for $3.99
 > > Stop leak detector $4.99
 > > R-134 "high mileage" w/leak sealer $7.49
 > >
 > > I've got a '70 Cutlass Supreme and someday I'll be 
 > retrofitting the original
 > > system that's been open for years to R-134.  How much of 
 > the refrigerant and
 > > oil should I buy?  Is this a decent price for this 
 > refrigerant?  Perhaps it
 > > might be better to stick with R-12?  Any thoughts?
 > >
 > > Thanks,
 > >
 > > On digest mode
 > > Scott White
 > > 93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
 > > 86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
 > > 70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
 > > 55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)
 > >
 > > _________________________________________________________________
 > > Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN 
 > Hotmail Extra Storage!
 > > 
 > http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/
onm00200362ave/direct/01/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 09:40:17 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 58s times/1968 Cutlass and 58 pics

At 02:09 AM 5/17/2004, you wrote:
>Hello
>Rick,,,no i mean Ron...ah,,,Randy had written....
> >>The 58s best time so far is 15.82@85.02mph."
>correction,Make that 85.92 mph...its been a long day :O,,cant read no mo.
>Took some 58 and 68 pics today....
>this 68 looks like its gonna fly when she races down the track!
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1086707843719_0516_001.jpg
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1085477537302_0516_004.jpg
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1083917385084_0516_002.jpg
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1085262608581_0516_003.jpg
>the 58
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1084485472821_0516_006.jpg
>  http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1083367151037_0516_005.jpg
>Lets see...drop the bumpers,,frt seat(get a light wieght racers chair)rear 
>seat,hood,add MSD and a alt,=high 14s?

What gears are you running in that? And what stall converter? Or is it the 
original Hydramatic?

It looks like you'd need a LOT of rpm to get that beast out of the hole! If 
the rear suspension is set up right, though, it looks like you'd have 
plenty of traction.

That has GOT to be fun to watch, though, and even more fun to drive.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4891
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