
oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, March 31 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4837



Re: More Dyno Stuff
Re: Gas prices, gas theft?
GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....
O2 sensors with carbureted engines
Re: Intrigue Questions
RE: Dyno Follow Up
RE: Mike's Quadra-bog solved?
Re: O2 sensors with carbureted engines
RE: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds
Re: O2 sensors with carbureted engines
Re: Rollin' in my Cutty/brakes
Re: More Dyno Stuff
RE: Mike's Quadra-bog solved?
Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds
Re: piston rings rotate?
Re: Effects of milling an intake manifold?
Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds
Re: piston rings rotate?
Re: GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....
RE: GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....
Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!
Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?
Re: shifter linkage
Oldsmobile parts  64 Cutlass/442
66/67 442  SS1's
Qjet Mods
Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds
RE: 66/67 442  SS1's
68 Accelerator Cable needed 442/Hurst
RE: RE: 66/67 442  SS1's
Re: 66/67 442  SS1's
Re: O2 sensors with carbureted engines
Re: 71 Cutlass 350 Lower Radiator HOSE
Wanted
RE: More Dyno Stuff
Re: Rollin' in my Cutty
RE: More Dyno Stuff
Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 17:43:03 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: More Dyno Stuff

In a word....Revs!

Horsepower = torque*RPM/5252 

Therefore less torque 8 more rpm can equal more horsepower. Won't necessarily win you the race though.

Kevin 



> How is it that car magazines, such as Car Craft, can build/test a
> relatively mild Chebby 350 and report slightly less torque, but greater
> horsepower than that produced by your 455 cubic inch engine?
> Marty, St. Louis
> 
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 17:25:29 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Gas prices, gas theft?

I suspect if they'd just chop off some hands, there would be much less 
thievery.

M


At 11:28 AM 3/29/2004 -0500, Joe wrote:
>I thought this was an interesting pair of articles . . .
>
>I mean, I'd already noticed that gas prices have broken their previous
>highs, without the excuse of the summer squeeze (yet), but the article that
>went along with this was kind of interesting, and threw me a bit....
>
>http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4620022/
>
>http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4614229/
>
>
>         - Joe Vahabzadeh

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 11:30:47 -0500
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....

All,

	Just a heads-up, particularly since some listers own these vehicles...


	http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4515443/


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 10:34:24 -0600
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: O2 sensors with carbureted engines

Have any of you installed an O2 sensor to aid in tuning your carburetors?  I have toyed with the idea but have never really investigated whether it would be a useful tool.  Are there any good articles or books on the subject?

    mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:48:03 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Intrigue Questions

> My car (a GX) has the pewter interior. I know in 2002 the GLS pewter
> interior had brushed-metal accents on the inside. Again, I've never seen
> one with that. Any idea whether a few of those pieces would be something
> feasible to retrofit? I assume I could order them still from GM.

Greg,

These pieces should be easy to retrofit.  Typically they come off pretty easily.
Problem is, as an example, the instrument panel accessory trim plate for a GLX
sells for $66.62 US.  The same piece for the GX sells for $30.23.  There is a
comparable price difference on the door armrest switch plates - about twice as
much.  I'm assuming these are the pieces you are referring to.

Oh, and those nifty 17" chrome wheels?  $603.32 at your friendly local GM
dealer (South of the Border).  Center insert not included.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 09:33:13 -0600
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Dyno Follow Up

Come on Paul, don't leave us hanging.  Let's hear the stats.

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Paul Tumolo [mailto:ptumolo@comcast.net]
 > Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 9:23 AM
 > To: Oldsmobile-Digest
 > Subject: Dyno Follow Up
 > 
 > 
 > The cost of the dyno day is $675. That includes set up, tuning,
 > adjustments, gas, and minor repairs. I brought my own oil 
 > and filters.
 > If you want to swap out major parts like intakes and cams, that is
 > priced separately. The key here is that you can see the biggest
 > potential problems on any new engine start up: air/fuel ratio and
 > ignition timing. The Q-jet that I used was a Mondello 
 > modified version
 > supposedly calibrated for a bigger cam and other 
 > modifications. The carb
 > was SUPER lean, so much so that I probably would have burnt 
 > a valve or
 > cracked a piston!!!! The dyno guy saw that immediately and took the
 > proper precautions so no damage was done. And, if the 
 > ignition timing is
 > too advanced, then the lean condition is much worse. So, the value
 > gained here is you can catch any issues before the engine goes in the
 > car, and it is all broken in and ready to go.
 > 
 > I didn't want to spend a weekend swapping engines and then find a
 > problem that would force me to take the engine out again.
 > 
 > Money well spent, especially if the engine is modified!
 > 
 > I have some digital pictures if you want them. PM me at
 > ptumolo@comcast.net
 > 
 > Paul Tumolo
 > 1970 442 Hardtop
 > OCA # 31967
 > 
 > 
 > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 08:43:12 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Mike's Quadra-bog solved?

> Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 23:29:14 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: RE: Mike's Quadra-bog solved?
> 
> At 08:20 AM 3/26/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> >I had some galvanized flashing that I thought about cutting and 
> >installing over the crossover ports, but I talked myself out of it. 
> >Maybe next time.  I really expected the gaskets to come with a 
> >couple of metal block of plates.
> 
> Metal plate will burn through after awhile, even stainless 
> steel. The only
> thing that lasts are plugs of one type or another.
> 
> SteveH

I agree with Steve that any type of thin gauge sheet metal will eventually burn through.
I used 3/4 inch aluminum "plates" welded into the intake manifold exhaust crossover. I 
guess 3/4 inch is thick enough to be considered "plugs" and are safe from burning through. 

Kenneth 
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:53:06 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: O2 sensors with carbureted engines

In a message dated 3/30/04 8:45:22 PM Central Standard Time, mschlott@spe.org 
writes:

- -- Have any of you installed an O2 sensor to aid in tuning your carburetors?  
I have toyed with the idea but have never really investigated whether it 
would be a useful tool.  Are there any good articles or books on the subject? --

Mike,

Check out this web page, he shows you how to hook up an O2 sensor and tune 
with it for a relatively low cost:

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

Hope this helps, Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:45:09 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: RE: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds

Hello
Just a quick two cents on this and and small question....
>>>
>>>>
air/fuel ratio and
> > ignition timing. The Q-jet that I used was a Mondello 
> > modified version
> > supposedly calibrated for a bigger cam and other 
> > modifications. The carb
> > was SUPER lean, so much so that I probably would have burnt 
> > a valve or
> > cracked a piston!!!! 

>>>>What kind of mods. are done to this carb?
I know you can swap jets/metering rods all day long but if airbleeds are not changed as well you wont have max. performance set on yer car.
I have not done much of this on a QJ but i know a hollly is like this.
Good luck!
Randy H.
Maple Ditch
B.C.Can.

 

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 19:39:53 -0800
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: O2 sensors with carbureted engines

I have. You need a volt meter that measures in mV (0-1000). Target 500-650 mV for cruise / idle and 750-850 mV for
power.

Kevin


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 8:34 AM
Subject: O2 sensors with carbureted engines


> Have any of you installed an O2 sensor to aid in tuning your carburetors?  I have toyed with the idea but have never
really investigated whether it would be a useful tool.  Are there any good articles or books on the subject?
>
>     mike
>
> Mike Schlottman
> Sr. Systems Administrator
> Society of Petroleum Engineers
> 222 Palisades Creek Drive
> Richardson, TX 75083
> 972-952-9382
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:51:46 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Re: Rollin' in my Cutty/brakes

Hello
Sorta reminds me of what my racin buddy said about the pick me up trucks with huge wheels on them.
Does it not make sense if the dia. of the circle/tire is larger,,, then the brake shoe/pad needs to be bigger lever also?
Wonder what the stopping power is on that car :O
Huge tire-same stock brake pad= no stoppy?
Also is it harder to hold a car on the line at the strip during launch rpms with a larger frt tire and same stock pads/shoes???

>>> http://www.geocities.com/rld96bbb/daytona04.htm
>>>
>
>Randy H.
Maple Ditch B.C.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 23:18:35 -0500
From: "W-Machines" <W-Machines@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: More Dyno Stuff

When I dynoed my 455, it dynoed at 469 hp@ 5608 rpm and 523 ft lbs @ 3350
RPM.  After taking the engine home and putting it in my 442.  I ran 12.76 in
the 1/4 @ 106.49 mph.  Since then, I added a bigger bump stick and milled
the heads another .020   End result, the car is running 11.96 @ 112mph in
the 1/4.  HP is approx 525 and torque maybe 560.
Here in Michigan, it costs from 450 to 500 to dyno an engine.
regards
WMACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W30 race rocket


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
To: "Oldsmobile-Digest" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 5:51 PM
Subject: More Dyno Stuff


> I picked up my engine today, and the dyno shop owner gave me all the
> test data. He also included a dyno test of a stock W30 engine that was
> rebuilt. The W30 numbers were: peak horsepower was 299 at 4400 RPM and
> peak torque was 411 at 3300 RPM.
>
> Compare my engine: peak torque was 460 at 3300 RPM, and peak horsepower
> was 338 at 4500. On both engines, power dropped off a lot after 4500
> RPM.
>
> I asked him why the factory numbers were so high. He told me that the
> factory dyno is run on propane (higher octane), low viscosity oil, and a
> cool controlled air intake charge. The factory dyno also has headers.
> And, there is a minimal load on the engine with no accessories. But, the
> factory rating is 365 horsepower and 500 pounds of torque. Sounds like
> the factory numbers are really optimistic!
>
> Paul Tumolo
> 1970 442
> OCA # 31967
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 04:01:37 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Mike's Quadra-bog solved?

At 08:43 AM 3/29/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I used 3/4 inch aluminum "plates" welded into the intake manifold 
>exhaust crossover. I guess 3/4 inch is thick enough to be considered 
>"plugs" and are safe from burning through.

They'll eventually melt. Poncho had cast aluminum exhaust manifolds for the
'62/'63 SD421 engines and those would burn a hole after a dozen WOT runs on
the strip. I've seen a few on xXxx complete with the "historic" holes
;o((((((((((  (and they STILL went for $800-$1500 EACH  ===============8-O

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 23:26:08 -0500
From: "W-Machines" <W-Machines@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds

Uhh, you don't adjust air bleeds on Q-Jets.  I run said Q-jet on my car.
Here is my combo, increase idle circuit .050.  Using 73 jets, CC secondary
rods, 48B primary Rods, V Hangar, short accelerator pump and spring from
Edlebrock.  .149 needle and seat also from Edlebrock. Using 4hg spring for
power piston.  Secondary spring wrap loose.  Also, no filter in carb.  Have
in line filter instead.   Now if I did not richen the idle circuit, I would
be using 75 jets and the rest of the stuff would be the same.

I cruise, race and drive with Q-jets.  Work very well if you can tune them.
I am fortunate that I can.

regards WMACHINES (Mark Prince)
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hermsen" <Cutlass7276@netscape.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 10:45 PM
Subject: RE: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds


> Hello
> Just a quick two cents on this and and small question....
> >>>
> >>>>
> air/fuel ratio and
> > > ignition timing. The Q-jet that I used was a Mondello
> > > modified version
> > > supposedly calibrated for a bigger cam and other
> > > modifications. The carb
> > > was SUPER lean, so much so that I probably would have burnt
> > > a valve or
> > > cracked a piston!!!!
>
> >>>>What kind of mods. are done to this carb?
> I know you can swap jets/metering rods all day long but if airbleeds are
not changed as well you wont have max. performance set on yer car.
> I have not done much of this on a QJ but i know a hollly is like this.
> Good luck!
> Randy H.
> Maple Ditch
> B.C.Can.
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service.
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>
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:06:46 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: piston rings rotate?

Yes, they can rotate. But, by breaking up the spacing, when they do rotate,
the odds are they will never line up.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 4:15 PM
Subject: piston rings rotate?


> A fella on another list I get says that it doean't matter how you orient
the
> gaps on piston rings 'cuz they rotate in use anyway. Izzat true, or is he
> umm.. mistaken?
>
> drc
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:04:16 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Effects of milling an intake manifold?

Michael is absolutely correct. That's why one would never mill the top of an
intake manifold, unless a lot of purpose directed modification was planned
for a specific reason.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Ecker" <ecker567@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 3:59 PM
Subject: RE: Effects of milling an intake manifold?


> Not an intake manifold expert, but my primary concerns here would be:
>
> 1) linkage clearance and choke hook-up
> 2) need to drill & tap the carb mounting holes deeper (and hope you
> don't go into the ports)
> 3) significant decrease in plenum volume - will hinder engine breathing
> at higher rpm's and may affect idle quality and general performance
> 4) lowering the carburetor will make the mixture turn more sharply into
> the ports, possible causing air-fuel separation especially at higher rpms
>
> Just a few things to think about....
>
> Michael Ecker
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 00:07:32 -0500
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds

"W-Machines" <W-Machines@comcast.net> wrote:

>I cruise, race and drive with Q-jets.  Work very well if you can tune them.
>I am fortunate that I can.
>>>
Hello
Thanks Mark just printed it up for my carb buddy who rebuilt and did throttle shafts,1/2 spacers under the RP tri power in the 58.
He does heads and carbs for lotsa racers has a flow bench and there are a million Q jets and other products around his place. I know he makes amazing stuffs.
He will educate me better with help from your info,i will try a Qjet on the race car soon,, opposed to the previous brand of carb i had on there ...if i ever rebuild the motor :O
What times does yer Car run?
Randy H.
72 Cutlass 12.68@107.98 Cast iron intake and street tires/3610 pds.




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:14:18 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: piston rings rotate?

> With the friction they have against the
> cylinder wall and being pressed against the piston lands due to
compression
> and suction as the piston goes up and down, I'm sure they don't rotate
very
> quickly, though.


Correct. The rotation is very slow, relative to number of piston cycles.

In a gas operated rifle that uses 3 rings for the gas piston seal, the gas
rings also rotate, and the rings must be staggered for proper gas operation.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:28:08 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....

> Just a heads-up, particularly since some listers own these vehicles...
>
>
> http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4515443/


Yeah, we really make good vehicles, don't we. I'm supposed to take our '97
Trans Sport in for a recall on the steering box. Apparently, the steering
gear can take a notion to disassemble itself at inconvenient times.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 00:47:30 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....

We don't make very good web pages either. It's amazing how many "webmasters"
forget to specify a background color.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space Systems,
Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 12:28 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: GM recalling 93,572 Olds Auroras....

> Just a heads-up, particularly since some listers own these vehicles...
>
>
> http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4515443/


Yeah, we really make good vehicles, don't we. I'm supposed to take our '97
Trans Sport in for a recall on the steering box. Apparently, the steering
gear can take a notion to disassemble itself at inconvenient times.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 19:32:08 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Dyno'ed my 455 Today!

THATS WHY EARLY  ENGINES WERE RATED AT 310 AND UP HP. TILL 1970 I BELIEVE THEY WERE RATED AT CRANK SHAFT
THEN IN 1970? THEY WERE RATED AT REAR WHEELS AND HAD ONLY 185 HP. TRANS,REAR END GEARS, TIRE SIZE AND EXHAUST ALL PLAY A ROLE IN DECREASING THE HP RATEING WITH THE ENGINE INSTALLED
RON    
> There was a good article in Car Craft a few months ago (November '03) about
> the differences in HP between and engine dyno and chassis dyno.  Basically
> there is a 15-20% loss of HP due to mechanical use of power through the
> transmission and rear axle and different exhaust systems used on the engine
> dyno and what you have on your car.
> 
> A chasis dyno will give you your real HP at the wheels which i think is a
> more appropriate number. And like you said, you can real world tune your
> vehicle on the chasis dyno. If you get JWO, check out the March issue. I
> wrote an article about the Eastern Mass GMO Club bringing a few of our
> Oldses to a chasis dyno back in October.
> 
> It's real learning experience, and very humbling, too. We had 5 cars attend
> and four of us were running similar setups. But there was still a differnce
> of about 100 hp between my 455 which had the least amount of HP and the best
> setup of almost 270 rear wheel HP.
> 
> I've got alot of tuning to do!
> 
> Bill Reilly
> 

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>
> 
> > > What was the cost of the day @ the dyno?  If the cost isn't too great I
> may
> > > do this to my 455 before I drop it into the chassis.
> > >
> >
> > I've always wondered if it wouldn't be better to use a chassis style dyno
> after installation. I guess mainly because I'm
> > not certain how much (if any) the tuning needs will vary once installed.
> Does anyone have any experience on this?
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> >
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 12:39:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: How does the trunk divider mount in a '65 442?

Albert,


> Yeah that's what I thought (that's how it was in the Mustang I restored) -
> but there is nothing to "hook" to.


I'm not quite sure what you're describing. The divider/insulator should have
3 slots in it that match up to the 3 hooks. It just slips over the hooks.
Then the seat back upper edge slips over the hooks and sets there. On the
bottom of the seat back, there are a couple of wire loops, one on each side,
that a bolt and large washer go into and lock the seat back to the floorpan.

On my '65, the divider/insulator was trash, but I saved enough of it to use
as a pattern. I cut a new one out of 1/8" thick closed cell white heavy foam
sheet. It worked fine.


> There are tabs are punched out to make
> space for the hooks (you're right there are 3) and the seat hangs on those
> fine. Maybe I need to get a seatback from a different source than Year
One?


????

Milton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 12:44:46 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: shifter linkage

A good speedshop should have them. Often, a complete Hurst shift linkage
bushing kit will directly replace stock OEM bushings and clips and is far
superior.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Casey Olund" <kcolund@shaw.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 7:45 AM
Subject: shifter linkage


> Over the weekend, my shifter linkage became quite stiff to operate and
often seemed to stick or jam. Upon investigation
> I found that the clip that locks the shifter cable to the bracket on the
side of the transmission is missing.
>
> Does anyone have one they can sell me, or know of a good source for these
parts.
>
> Kevin
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 00:55:20 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile parts  64 Cutlass/442

- -------------------------------1080712520
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Greetings all


Does anyone here have need of parts for a 64 cutlass?

I have an extra grill
 rear panel
completely rebuilt AM radio

I might have other stuff around too

Make me an offer


Vinny

- -------------------------------1080712520
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Greetings all</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Does anyone here have need of parts for a 64 cutlass?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have an extra grill</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;rear panel</DIV>
<DIV>completely rebuilt AM radio</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I might have other stuff around too</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Make me an offer</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1080712520--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 00:56:29 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: 66/67 442  SS1's

- -------------------------------1080712589
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I also have a set of full chrome SSI's   missing center caps


Anyone interested?

Vinny

- -------------------------------1080712589
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I also have a set of full chrome SSI's&nbsp;&nbsp; missing center caps<=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyone interested?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1080712589--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:12:15 -0800 (PST)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Qjet Mods

- --- W-Machines <W-Machines@comcast.net> wrote:
Uhh, you don't adjust air bleeds on Q-Jets.  I run
said Q-jet on my car.
Here is my combo, increase idle circuit .050. <snip>

****************

Mark, how does one "increase the idle circuit" on a
Qjet?  

Thanks!

=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 01:07:17 -0500
From: "W-Machines" <W-Machines@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds

11.90's @ 112mph in the 1/4
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hermsen" <Cutlass7276@netscape.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: More Dyno stuff/airbleeds


> "W-Machines" <W-Machines@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >I cruise, race and drive with Q-jets. Work very well if you can tune
them.
> >I am fortunate that I can.
> >>>
> Hello
> Thanks Mark just printed it up for my carb buddy who rebuilt and did
throttle shafts,1/2 spacers under the RP tri power in the 58.
> He does heads and carbs for lotsa racers has a flow bench and there are a
million Q jets and other products around his place. I know he makes amazing
stuffs.
> He will educate me better with help from your info,i will try a Qjet on
the race car soon,, opposed to the previous brand of carb i had on there
...if i ever rebuild the motor :O
> What times does yer Car run?
> Randy H.
> 72 Cutlass 12.68@107.98 Cast iron intake and street tires/3610 pds.
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service.
> Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
>
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> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 01:23:09 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: 66/67 442  SS1's

SSI? Isn't that Social Security Income? Methinks you meant SS1s.

John "In a fightin' mood" Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

I also have a set of full chrome SSI's   missing center caps
 
 
Anyone interested?
 
Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 01:24:53 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: 68 Accelerator Cable needed 442/Hurst

- -------------------------------1080714293
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Hey all,

does anyone here know where I might find a NOS/Repro accelerator cable that 
goes from firewall to the carb???


Thanks

Vinny
68 H/O

- -------------------------------1080714293
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Hey all,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>does anyone here know where I might find a NOS/Repro accelerator cable=20=
that goes from firewall to the carb???</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV>
<DIV>68 H/O</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1080714293--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 01:33:03 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: RE: 66/67 442  SS1's

Oops, forgot about Roman numerals. Ok, Vinny, you are forgiven. Hopefully I
will be too :)

John


- -----Original Message-----

SSI? Isn't that Social Security Income? Methinks you meant SS1s.

John "In a fightin' mood" Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

I also have a set of full chrome SSI's   missing center caps


Anyone interested?

Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 01:37:45 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 66/67 442  SS1's

- -------------------------------1080715065
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SS!

put up ya dukes


; )


How ya been John?


Vinny

- -------------------------------1080715065
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>SS!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>put up ya dukes</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>; )</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>How ya been John?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1080715065--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 23:02:07 -0800
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: O2 sensors with carbureted engines

Mike:

I think a/f ratio measurements are crucial to any good tuning. You can save 
yourself a lot of money by doing your own tuning. You can simulate any dyno 
session by mapping your load / rpm etc. This means though that you want a 
sensor with a decent brain attached to it, so you can save and monitor 
things for all driving conditions! A set of LEDs or a voltmeter won't cut 
it. The other thing that is very important:

The ONLY way to go is with a wide band 02 sensor. If you have a narrow band 
sensor, all you can look for is lambda=1 which is a/f of 14.7 in a gasoline 
engine. While that is the optimum for fuel economy, it isn't for power! You 
want to go richer for power. The number depends on your setup.

The narrow band sensor is perfect for the job it is doing in a computer 
equipped modern car, but it will not give you any information how far you 
are off lambda=1 if you are tuning for power. The output from the narrow 
band sensor basically is 0% all the way to 14.6 and then jumps to 100% at 
14.8. That way you dial in for 14.7 looking for a 50% signal.

So, you'll need a wideband sensor that will actually measure the 02 
content. This means the output voltage is somewhat linear to the A/F ratio 
and there isn't a sweetspot at which things snap. And you need a brain 
attached to it!

After reading in car craft about it 3 months ago, and they were just loving 
it, I have recently bought the innovate a/f ratio meter and it is awesome. 
It records for up to 45 minutes, can monitor rpm, tempertatures and other 
input. It can be bought on their webpage. 
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ If you are into tuning FI / EFI cars, 
you can also do great stuff, like feeding the stock O2 sensor input a fake 
signal, getting the stock computer to enrichen the mixture. :) You can 
program it rather openly too through the firmware utility. It is worth 
every penny that it costs.

I have since found the A/F meter cheaper here. This seller is a reliable 
source that I have used many times.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_fuelCI_pg14.htm#item50

Have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. I have not used it on 
my carbureted heaps. Mainly because I am very busy with the non olds world 
of things. This will work excellent for a carb application and you can 
either stick the thing up the tailpipe (with a special clamp) or you can 
install a bung into your exhaust path. You can even constantly install the 
meter and feed its signal to an analog dash gauge.

George
71 442
71 c/s rag
and other heaps ...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 00:23:01 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 71 Cutlass 350 Lower Radiator HOSE

> Anyway, just for the record, what is the number for
> the 70 Cutlass lower hose?

Gates # 20601, for both big and small block, fits '68-'70.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 06:40:09 -0600
From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
Subject: Wanted

Wanted or Looking for   1968, 69, 70, 71 W-30, W-31, 4spd. With
Documentation,
Coupe or Hardtop  No vinyl top  No a/c  Painted an original color No rust
bucket.
Thanks   Bob    (macs63rd@iols.com)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 08:31:31 -0500
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: More Dyno Stuff

Hey Mark - Who does dyno testing in Michigan (for future reference)?

Thanks,
Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

> -----Original Message-----
> From: W-Machines [mailto:W-Machines@comcast.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 11:19 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: More Dyno Stuff
 
[Snip]

> Here in Michigan, it costs from 450 to 500 to dyno an engine.
> regards
> WMACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 72 442 W30 race rocket
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 10:41:54 -0500
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: Re: Rollin' in my Cutty

Swanny wrote:

>>>
I'm sorry, thats digusting. No, I'm not sorry!
<<<

Yep ... indeed.  Probably the best part about it (other than the ultra
classy stick-on mirrored '22"') was the rust all over the car ... on the
decklid and behind all the wheels ... that didn't come through on my crappy
phone cam pics.  Big honkin' bubbles of rust were all busted through the
paint.  I mean, if you're going to put 3 grand worth of utterly offensive
rims and tires on your car, maybe fix that first?

Bob.


Part of Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 4:53 PM
Subject: Rollin' in my Cutty

>
> I saw this on the traffic choked 3 hour, 6 mile ride from Daytona
> International Speedway to my hotel on the beach.  I just had to share it
> with the list, for it is too good to keep all to myself.  If the owner of
> this is on the list, come clean.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/rld96bbb/daytona04.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 09:00:09 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: More Dyno Stuff

> Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 17:51:23 -0500
> From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
> Subject: More Dyno Stuff
> 
> I picked up my engine today, and the dyno shop owner gave me all the
> test data. He also included a dyno test of a stock W30 engine that was
> rebuilt. The W30 numbers were: peak horsepower was 299 at 4400 RPM and
> peak torque was 411 at 3300 RPM.
> 
> Compare my engine: peak torque was 460 at 3300 RPM, and peak 
> horsepower
> was 338 at 4500. On both engines, power dropped off a lot after 4500
> RPM.
> 
> I asked him why the factory numbers were so high. He told me that the
> factory dyno is run on propane (higher octane), low viscosity 
> oil, and a cool controlled air intake charge. The factory dyno also has 
> headers.
> And, there is a minimal load on the engine with no 
> accessories. But, the factory rating is 365 horsepower and 500 pounds of 
> torque. Sounds like the factory numbers are really optimistic!
> 
> Paul Tumolo
> 1970 442
> OCA # 31967

So then how is it that the '72 W-30 was rated 300 hp @ 4700 RPM and 
410 ft-lbs @ 3200 RPM AT THE REAR WHEELS? Or am I mistaken as to what SAE Net 
ratings meant in 1972?

Kenneth 
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 16:04:35 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Dealing with Generous Motors

> LeSabre
> bought new 
> 27k miles ago
> I really need the DEFROSTER.

In Pennyslvania, the defroster must be operational for state inspection.

This makes this defect a safety concern.

According to Pennsylvania Lemon Law, after three unsuccessful attempts by the 
dealer for the same safety related concern it becomes a buy back issue.

Laws may vary in your state.

Paul

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4837
*********************************
