
oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 6 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4846



Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)
Re: Broke An A-Arm - More
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: Broke An A-Arm - More
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: Broke An A-Arm - More
Who builds custom tubular A-arms for B & C bodies? (was broken A Arm)
Halon Stuff
Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)
Re: Halon Stuff
Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)
71 Delta 88 Conv. 4 bbl throttle cable needed
RE: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
RE: On = Off ? Changed alternator, not fixed... 
Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long) B-body info.........
Re: long time owners....
Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long) B-body info
Idle Problem with Olds 307
Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)
Re: Idle Problem with Olds 307
Re: long time owners
Olds Homecoming Show
Re: keeps running with key OFF
RE HALON and prevention of truth decay
Bronze engine paint
Re: Olds Homecoming Show
Re: Olds Homecoming Show
Re: Idle Problem with Olds 307
Control Arm Shims.
Re: long time owners....
Re: Control Arm Shims.
Re: air filter
Is this a 455?
Re: Is this a 455?
lower console
Re: Is this a 455?
Re: Is this a 455?
Re: air filter
Re: Is this a 455?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 11:40:48 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)

> My 1970 98 has been through 2 so far and Ive only had it 7 years.
> Neither one of the control arms that broke were rusted out and I didnt
> hit any curbs or anything. The only weird thing upon inspection of my
> suspension was that the passenger side end link (the bolt that holds the
> sway bar to the lower control arm) was missing. The control arm that
> broke twice on me was the drivers side lower one...]

- -----------------------

This is not that uncommon a failure on high mileage '65-'70 big cars.  I got
lucky and found a new set of loaded lower arms for my 460,000 mile '69 98
Conv.  I haven't put them in yet, but I am keeping a very close eye on the
ones that are in the car.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 11:44:27 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More

Actually, a common problem as the lower ball joint is pressed in. If the
ball joint gets pressed in crooked, then a small stress crack can occur.
Over time the crack propagates and eventually fails.

A place to inspect when you grease the car.....

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 11:54:07 -0400
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

On Monday April 5 Robert Barry wrote:

>People have e-mailed me claiming to have a factory non-SX 455 Supreme, but 
>just like CW's solid-main-web 403's, no proof has ever materialized.
>

Robert,

I still have a 455 and attached turbo 400 that I pulled from a 1972 Cutlass 
Supreme many years ago.  Are you saying that the car must have been an SX?  I 
don't remember any SX emblems on the front fenders.  I think I have a copy of 
the car's title. Is there a special letter code (Like "X" for 72 W30) in the 
vin number? 

Thanks for the information, 
Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 12:04:19 -0400
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More

Ahhhhhh good shyt! I know on my 98 the guy had to put a little tack weld 
to hold the bushing in. Could that cause a problem? He said when I 
change the bushings just take a hammer and knock the weld off and then 
reweld it.

paulbunyan


ptumolo@comcast.net wrote:

>Actually, a common problem as the lower ball joint is pressed in. If the
>ball joint gets pressed in crooked, then a small stress crack can occur.
>Over time the crack propagates and eventually fails.
>
>A place to inspect when you grease the car.....
>
>Paul Tumolo
>1970 442 Hardtop
>OCA # 31967
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:07:44 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

> I still have a 455 and attached turbo 400 that I pulled from a 1972
Cutlass
> Supreme many years ago.
- -----------------

The 455 was definitely a stand alone option on the  Olds A body in '72.  I
think Bob is right regarding '70 and '71.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:20:48 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm - More

> Actually, a common problem as the lower ball joint is pressed in. If the
> ball joint gets pressed in crooked, then a small stress crack can occur.

Improperly installed ball joints are the number one cause of this problem.
Some of the aftermarket replacement joints for the B and C cars were a bit
oversize, which contributed to the problem as well.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 09:24:49 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: Who builds custom tubular A-arms for B & C bodies? (was broken A Arm)

I have a 66 98 that's gone through 2 lower A arms -- one left and one right.
I went the weld-in-more-metal route on that car 10 years ago or so and have
not had a problem since. 

And I have a 66 Starfire which just broke it's left lower.

I can't really call this a design flaw since these arms probably all did
200,000 plus miles, but it is interesting that they all failed in the same
place. Either way I'm looking for a permanent fix.

All -- details on anyone you'd recommend to make me up some tubular arms
would be very much appreciated.  To me this is kind of like insurance, I
don't mind paying a bit more to sleep well. 

Cheers,
cf 



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Infinite Space
Systems, Inc.
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 12:13 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)


Chris,

To be completely honest, I've never seen a GM A-body break a lower control
arm, or an upper, and you've broken 3. I don't understand how that could be
happening.

Which model do you have again?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:37:28 -0400
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: Halon Stuff

I'm catching up on the weekend's digests, and I saw a few posts on Halon
from the other day.  I wanted to give a heads-up ... you can still buy
Halon equipment, although they stopped manufacturing it 1/1/1994 as part of
the Clean Air Act.  A bit like the old R12 refrigerant, while it is illegal
to manufacture Halon, it is still legal to have and use Halon fire
equipment.  This site has some nice chrome ones for your Olds (and yes,
that's my lame stab at keeping this post Olds-related):

http://www.h3r.com/products/home_vehicle.htm

Of course, also like R12, limited remaining stock + no further
availability, ever = high price :0

Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 13:35:36 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

At 12:07 PM 4/5/2004, you wrote:
> > I still have a 455 and attached turbo 400 that I pulled from a 1972
>Cutlass
> > Supreme many years ago.
>-----------------
>
>The 455 was definitely a stand alone option on the  Olds A body in '72.  I
>think Bob is right regarding '70 and '71.

Yes; in '72 the 455 was just another engine option. In fact, I believe it 
could be had with a 4-spd as well. And, of course, the 442 was an option 
package on the Cutlass Supreme Convertible body-style, so I believe the VIN 
and body-tag will show up as a Supreme model-code for that year as well. In 
'70 and '71, the 442 convertible would have a different model-code than the 
SX convertible.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:41:33 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)

> Probably more common here in rust country. I have seen them a half
> dozen times. Also has come up on the list a couple times over the years.


You have a point. Even though I refer to Missoura as a "rain forest", it
wasn't as bad as other places up north and east.

Where exactly does the lower control arm break?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:37:39 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Halon Stuff

- -------------------------------1081197459
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I bought a small extinguisher with Halon at a car show for $50. The guy who 
sold it to me said it would be excellent for an engine fire. Told me to leave 
the hood closed and shoot the Halon through the grill. Being outdoors and all, 
I wouldn't have the lack of oxygen problem for myself, but the fire being 
extinguished would have no oxygen to breathe in that enclosed area. Makes perfect 
sense to me, although, luckily, I haven't had to try it (yet)

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

- -------------------------------1081197459
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<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
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<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I bought a small&nbsp;extinguisher with Halon at a car show for $50. Th=
e guy who sold it to me said it would be excellent for an engine fire. Told=20=
me to leave the hood closed and shoot the Halon through the grill. Being out=
doors and all, I wouldn't have the lack of oxygen problem for myself, but th=
e fire being extinguished would have no oxygen to breathe in that enclosed a=
rea. Makes perfect sense to me, although, luckily, I haven't had to try it (=
yet)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190=
 SL Conv.<BR>92 Eldo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081197459--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 16:50:49 -0400
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)

Mines broke in a straight line. The whole corner where the ball joint 
mounts broke off. It broke perfectly so I could even re use the ball 
joint if I wanted NOT

paulbunyan

imp@theriver.com wrote:

>>Probably more common here in rust country. I have seen them a half
>>dozen times. Also has come up on the list a couple times over the years.
>>    
>>
>
>
>You have a point. Even though I refer to Missoura as a "rain forest", it
>wasn't as bad as other places up north and east.
>
>Where exactly does the lower control arm break?
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:58:31 EDT
From: James244@aol.com
Subject: 71 Delta 88 Conv. 4 bbl throttle cable needed

- -------------------------------1081198710
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Greetings List,
I'm seeking a 4 bbl throttle cable for a club member here in Atlanta that's 
looking to convert a 2 bbl  over to a quadrajet. Anyone have one available for 
a reasonable price? Please respond to James244@aol.com.

Thank you,
James

- -------------------------------1081198710
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">Greetings List,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">I'm seeking a 4 bbl throttle cable for a=
 club member here in Atlanta that's looking to convert a 2 bbl&nbsp; over to=
 a quadrajet. Anyone have one available for a reasonable price? Please respo=
nd to <A href=3D"mailto:James244@aol.com">James244@aol.com</A>.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">Thank you,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">James</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081198710--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 14:10:49 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???

> Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 16:59:54 -0800 (PST)
> From: frank iezzi <mrfiezzi@yahoo.com>
> Subject: info on 1970 Cutlass SX conv???
> 
> Hello fellow Olds friends:
> 
> A friend from high school (which was about 30 years
> ago) sent me an e-mail. Seems his boss is looking to
> sell a 1970 SX conv with the 455. What are these
> worth? What to look for to authenticate it as genuine?
> Any help appreciated... also what are the price range
> on these?
> 
> Thanks in advance... I need another Olds!
> 
> Frank Iezzi
> Columbus OH
> 1969 Cutlass 'S'

Here's a link to an SX web site:

http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/oldsmobile/442/sx.html

And here's a link to a classic car price guide site:

http://vmrintl.com


Kenneth 
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:26:48 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: On = Off ? Changed alternator, not fixed... 

Chris, this seems like a simple problem.  I must be missing something.

When the car is not running, and the key is off, is the relay energized?  If so, find out why the new wire you ran to the relay has 12 volts and should not.

If the relay does not energize until the key is turned on, and then does not de-energize, check to see if 12 volts is going to the coil of the relay.  If not, replace the relay, it is just sticking.  If there is, you may have some wiring loop that is taking 12 volts from the switch side of the relay, back to the coil side.  Kind of like the A/C hold in relay.  Once it is energized it stays that way until the ignition is turned off.  Which brings up another question.  Where did you get this relay?   It's not an A/C hold in relay is it? 

     mike

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:34:18 EDT
From: Rcktpwr2@aol.com
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long) B-body info.........

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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:33:13 EDT
From: Rcktpwr2@aol.com
Subject: Re: long time owners....

- -------------------------------1081200793
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Longest owned Oldsmobile is my 67 F-85 2dr post.........got it in 1988 from 
the original owners daughter who was going back to CA where the car was 
originally from (Walnut Creek actually) Hope to have it running again this year!!

  Bernie NJ

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rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Longest owned Oldsmobile is my 67 F-85 2dr post.........got it in 1988=20=
from the original owners daughter who was going back to CA where the car was=
 originally from (Walnut Creek actually) Hope to have it running again this=20=
year!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp; Bernie NJ</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081200793--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:35:48 EDT
From: Rcktpwr2@aol.com
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long) B-body info

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What yearch*vy caprice front spindles and brakes bolt up? 90? 91-96?

 Thanks, Bernie

 67 F-85

 67442 Conv

 94 Olds Conv

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<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>What yearch*vy caprice front spindles and brakes bolt up? 90? 91-96?</D=
IV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;Thanks, Bernie</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;67 F-85</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;67442 Conv</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;94 Olds Conv</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1081200947--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 14:58:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Hart <stevehart2004@yahoo.com>
Subject: Idle Problem with Olds 307

- --0-1531587048-1081202325=:34795
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello.
 
I have a question regarding the Oldsmobile 307 engine.  It's 
hard to find information on this engine, since they ceased production in 
1990.  I have the last of that engine in my 1990 Buick Estate Wagon, and 
I'm having a small problem that I'm hoping someone can relate to with a similar experience.

The engine runs fine for most of the time.  It purs so well, that you 
can hardly hear it run.  However, every now and then, when I am at a 
stop it rough idles.  The RPMs decrease, almost to the point where it 
seems the engine is about to stall.  In fact, it did stall a couple of 
times, when I left the car running in park to go check the mail.  I took it 
into the dealer and he couldn't find anything.  He showed no codes on 
the computer, and given that it does this intermittently, he couldn't 
get it to do what I described.

I was wondering if anyone can shed come light on this 307 problem.  
Given that the carb is computer controlled, there are no adjustments to 
be made, and I hesitate to spend the big bucks to change the carb when 
I'm not sure that it is the source of the problem.  Any ideas?

Cheers!

Steve.



- ---------------------------------
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- --0-1531587048-1081202325=:34795
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>Hello.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have a question regarding the Oldsmobile 307 engine.&nbsp; It's <BR>hard to find information on this engine, since they ceased production in <BR>1990.&nbsp; I have the last of that engine in my 1990 Buick Estate Wagon, and <BR>I'm having a small problem that I'm hoping someone can relate to with a similar experience.<BR><BR>The engine runs fine for most of the time.&nbsp; It purs so well, that you <BR>can hardly hear it run.&nbsp; However, every now and then, when I am at a <BR>stop it rough idles.&nbsp; The RPMs decrease, almost to the point where it <BR>seems the engine is about to stall.&nbsp; In fact, it did stall a couple of <BR>times, when I left the car running in park to go check the mail.&nbsp; I took it <BR>into the dealer and he couldn't find anything.&nbsp; He showed no codes on <BR>the computer, and given that it does this intermittently, he couldn't <BR>get it to do what I described.<BR><BR>I was wondering if anyone can shed come light on this 307 problem.&nbsp;
 <BR>Given that the carb is computer controlled, there are no adjustments to <BR>be made, and I hesitate to spend the big bucks to change the carb when <BR>I'm not sure that it is the source of the problem.&nbsp; Any ideas?<BR><BR>Cheers!<BR><BR>Steve.</DIV></DIV><p><hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:56:26 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: Broke An A-Arm today... (long)


> > Probably more common here in rust country. I have seen them a half
> > dozen times. Also has come up on the list a couple times over the years.
>
>
> >
Where exactly does the lower control arm break?


Milton,

 They break about 1" behind the joint. On the one I had around from a 67
Pontiac, had a slight bend in the stamping & it broke clean & straight.
>From what the big car guys are sayng it is more common with them. Makes
sense, I bet they are the same guage as the A body, just longer and more
weight.
 Good point on the damage possible by bad ball joint replacement also.



> Where exactly does the lower control arm break?
>


> You have a point. Even though I refer to Missoura as a "rain forest", it
> wasn't as bad as other places up north and east.

  Usually cars from that part of the country are very clean by our
standards.
   Road salt is the enemy here.

Joe Walters
73  H/O










> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 18:10:56 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Idle Problem with Olds 307

At 05:58 PM 4/5/2004, you wrote:
>Hello.
>
>I have a question regarding the Oldsmobile 307 engine.  It's
>hard to find information on this engine, since they ceased production in
>1990.  I have the last of that engine in my 1990 Buick Estate Wagon, and
>I'm having a small problem that I'm hoping someone can relate to with a 
>similar experience.

A sticking EGR valve would cause that; I don't know if it is 
solenoid-activated or simply vacuum-activated, but if solenoid-activated, a 
sticking solenoid or something screwy in its circuit would also allow it to 
kick in at idle and cause that rough-running/stalling situation.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 18:16:06 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: long time owners

Went to the site that Doug posted for your car Ron...WOW... that is one Hot
looking Cutty!!!

So you are going to be at the Homecoming Show this yr...June 19th???

I plan on being there...giving up riding in a parade with one of my horses
for this show. But wouldnt miss it for nothing!!

I'll have the '68 Cutty thats Willow Gold(Peagreen) in color...black vynal
top, white interior and the American flag in the back seat! If I can get it
made in time will have the R.I.P sticker in the back window!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 18:17:07 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Olds Homecoming Show

Who is going to the Olds Homecoming Show in Lansing this June 19th????

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:30:52 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: keeps running with key OFF

On Apr 4, 2004, at 7:17 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 20:41:03 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: keeps running with key OFF
>
>
<snip>
>
> As usual, we all disavowen any responsibility for das schtupiden
> schieschkopfen dumbshooey mistakenmen dat resulten un das 
> spitzensparkens
> and/or flamenbangens  ;o)

That's beautiful, man <sniff!>
Al most as good as the old "Das machinen ist nicht fur gerfingerpoken 
und mittengraben..."
>
> SteveH
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 19:48:09 -0400 
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: RE HALON and prevention of truth decay

Tried to send this from my other mailbox the other day but it didn't seem to
go.


HALON   DOES NOT  work by displacing oxygen.  CO2 works this way.  

HALON disrupts the chemistry that is causing the combustion by bonding with
the free radicals that normally bond with oxygen, resulting in combustion.  

HALON that hasn't encountered high temperatures is NON-TOXIC.  I know many
people that have been involved in accidental HALON releases during main
space fire protection system maintenance on USN ships that have survived.
The only danger is that you might fall over something due to the fogging
effect immediately following the release.

HALON that has been exposed to high temperatures (about 400-600 'F) breaks
down into Fluorine and Bromine gases.  These gasses are highly toxic and are
the reason for un-protected firefighters in confined spaces becoming rapidly
dead.  


Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 19:48:00 -0400 
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: Bronze engine paint

Along with the rattle bombs that Fu$ick sells and the possible quarts
available from Year One ( I didn't see the listing before I sent my last
rant regarding subject paint) there is another source for paint to coat your
400 with.

Since I didn't want to use the rattle bombs on my engine and since I didn't
realize Y1 had the quarts, I contacted Tri City Paints,
www.autocolorlibrary.com regarding mixing some up for me.  They told me to
send them some thing with the color on it and they would duplicate it.  

Now my engine didn't have the factory bronze on it had some vintage 87
Fu$ick from the quart can.  This was a little too yellow or had a not quite
enough red or brown in it, but it was all I had other than some horribly
oxidized factory painted covers.  But they got the close valve cover and
returned a quart can along with a 3x5 paint chip.  

The big chip looks a lot closer to how I remember the bronze actually
looking than the valve cover that they received.  I will provide further
details and photos after I get the engine painted.....maybe in 3 or 4 more
months.

A minor issue is that they called it 442 engine gold, I have sent them a new
email correcting them on this and they said they will.  I do not know if it
is listed in their on-line catalog yet but if you drop
jimmychips@autocolorlibrary.com a line I am sure that they can get it to
you.  

Jim 
69 442 conv
maybe back on the road before it turns 40......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 19:47:09 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming Show

  i should make it this yr.
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>; <Cutlass442Owners@yahoogroups.com>;
"442" <442@yahoogroups.com>
  Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 6:17 PM
  Subject: Olds Homecoming Show


  > Who is going to the Olds Homecoming Show in Lansing this June 19th????
  >
  > Tami
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 20:36:40 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming Show

Ron...going to be bringing the '65??

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 00:29:10 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Problem with Olds 307

At 06:10 PM 4/5/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>A sticking EGR valve would cause that; I don't know if it is 
>solenoid-activated or simply vacuum-activated, but if solenoid-activated, a 
>sticking solenoid or something screwy in its circuit would also allow it to 
>kick in at idle and cause that rough-running/stalling situation.

Ported vacuum, from a spigot at the driver's-front side of the carb right
underneath the TPS socket in the carb. So at idle, there's no vacuum to
suck the EGR valve in. So even if the solenoid went crazy, it shouldn't
cause the EGR valve to actuate at idle. The rpm has to be just about 1500
rpm before you begin getting more than a cupla inches of vacuum.

I'm thinking bout the problem but haven't come up with anything yet, other
than I feel that it's fuel-related. When cold, my '88 wagon's 307 does
something similar but has never completely died, just begins idling rough
and the rpm drops 100-150 or so. After a few seconds, it catches again and
doesn't do it any more. A vacuum gage doesn't help much here because when
the rpm drops, the vacuum drops a few inches, too.

I'm wondering whether it could be water in the fuel. I haven't been using
the gas-dehydrator stuff for a coupla years. He might try that for a cupla
tanks and see if it goes away.

It shouldn't be the fuel filter or pump because if it were, he'd be lacking
fuel at higher rpm and under load.

BTW, all the carb adjustments ARE still there: they just covered them all
to keep folks who don't know how to fool with them, away from them  ;o)

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 18:01:48 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Control Arm Shims.

The front end on my car developed a severe clunk in it today. Upon inspection it appears the shims (I think there were
4) on the back bolt of the upper control arm, somehow came dislodged. Only one remains. I've never seen this happen.

Do you think a wheel alignment is all that is needed, or could there be something else I missed that may have caused
this?

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 21:39:27 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: long time owners....

- -------------------------------1081215567
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

   I bought my 61 Starfire Conv in Feb 1980 from the 87 year old original 
owner who was breaking up housekeeping and moving in with her 67 year old 
daughter, it only had 39,000 miles and never spent a day in the rain or snow. It now 
has 50,000 miles on it after 24 years and only spent one day in the rain and 
that was at the 100th year celebration in Lansing in 1997


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

- -------------------------------1081215567
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; I bought my 61 Starfire Conv in Feb 1980 from the 87 year=20=
old original owner who was breaking up housekeeping and moving in with her 6=
7 year old daughter, it only had 39,000 miles and never spent a day in the r=
ain or snow. It now has 50,000 miles on it after 24 years and only spent one=
 day in the rain and that was at the 100th year celebration in Lansing in 19=
97</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Everett&nbsp;&nbsp; OCA# 1961&nbsp;&nbsp; 1961 Starfire</DIV></BODY></H=
TML>

- -------------------------------1081215567--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 01:46:16 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Control Arm Shims.

At 06:01 PM 4/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>The front end on my car developed a severe clunk in it today. Upon 
>inspection it appears the shims (I think there were 4) on the back 
>bolt of the upper control arm, somehow came dislodged. Only one 
>remains. I've never seen this happen.

I have, several times. The last time was after I completely rebuilt the
whole front end of our long-gone, beloved '81 M*libu wagon then had it
aligned at a local shop. I then drove it on a biz trip from Virginia to
Massachusetts. About halfway through the week, the clunking started. Having
encountered this before a cupla times, I knew what it was immediately
;o(((  All the shims were missing. I jammed a cupla old nuts and washers in
there to fill the gap, tightened the living daylights outta the A-arm's
nut, and had the shop realign it when I got home after two weeks. Then I
went home and MADE SURE they'd tightened them enough  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

>Do you think a wheel alignment is all that is needed, or could there 
>be something else I missed that may have caused this?

They sometimes just forget to tighten them up enough. They put shims in
there, tighten the nuts part way, look at the alignment, go around and
tighten all the other nuts and bolts but forget that one.

So take it back to the shop, tell them the shims fell out, and have them
redo the alignment job, which outta be gratis since not many miles or much
time has passed.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 22:50:53 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: air filter

>> hey guys,where can i find a air filter for my 1960 super 88,394 c.i.i have
>> tryed on line auto parts stores,but they keep sending the wrong ones.keith
>> soden,oca#035738
>
>2bbl uses an ACDelco A90CW, 4bbl uses an A85C.

D'oh!  Paul beat me to the punch.

Just found this info out myself at work.  Unfortunately, due to the fact
we're being bought out by AutoZone, for the time being, I can't get 'em.

I imagine you could find or order them from someplace local to you, but
still.....



	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 19:47:45 -0700
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Is this a 455?

Hi Gang,

Can someone have a look at the engine at:

http://www.car-diaries.com/oldsmotron/story/20040405DonorTruck/

and verify that it is an Olds 455? It's currently in a pickup and I may 
pick up the truck cheap as a temporary driver with the idea of 
transplanting the motor into Oldsmotron at a later date.

'Best,

Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 19:58:02 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

Look up the number on the FAQ. It definitely is an olds big block with G 
heads. Likely the rest of the engine is 71 too. Buy it!

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 22:23:42 -0500
From: "ledbetter" <ledbetter@adams.net>
Subject: lower console

i am looking for the lower part of the console for a 72 olds cutlass
automatic can anyone tell me where i might find one.  thanks  charlie
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 20:45:07 -0700
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

Next question is how much should I pay. :-)

>Look up the number on the FAQ. It definitely is an olds big block with G 
>heads. Likely the rest of the engine is 71 too. Buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 03:39:55 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

At 07:47 PM 4/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>Can someone have a look at the engine at:
>
>http://www.car-diaries.com/oldsmotron/story/20040405DonorTruck/
>
>and verify that it is an Olds 455? It's currently in a pickup and I may 
>pick up the truck cheap as a temporary driver with the idea of 
>transplanting the motor into Oldsmotron at a later date.

Yup: '70-'72 455 block, according to the Olds FAQ at:
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/oldsfaq/ofblk.htm#BB%201965%20-%20
1976%20Big%20Block%20Block%20Unit%20Numbers%20Detail

(paste it all together)

The head casting character would be right in front of that first spark
plug, above the bracket that's bolted to the frontmost exhaust manifold
bolt in the next-to-last picture. The 396021F that's said to be the "head
ID" is actually the block ID, located right behind the water pump, looking
down. The large serif "F" indicates '70-'72 block according to the FAQ.

At least someone had their head in the right place, putting an Olds 455 in
that truck!  :o))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 03:33:41 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: air filter

At 10:50 PM 4/5/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>>> hey guys,where can i find a air filter for my 1960 super 88,394 c.i.i have
>>> tryed on line auto parts stores,but they keep sending the wrong ones.keith
>>> soden,oca#035738
>>
>>2bbl uses an ACDelco A90CW, 4bbl uses an A85C.
>
>D'oh!  Paul beat me to the punch.
>
>Just found this info out myself at work.  Unfortunately, due to the fact
>we're being bought out by AutoZone, for the time being, I can't get 'em.
>
>I imagine you could find or order them from someplace local to you, but
>still.....

Rock Auto lists them at $8.32 and $12.40 respectively. You have to search
by the part number. http://www.rockauto.com

http://www.discountautoparts.com may also have them, haven't looked. DAP's
in NJ, Rock's in Chicago-area. Both ship (for a fee, of course).

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 03:56:45 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Is this a 455?

At 08:45 PM 4/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Next question is how much should I pay. :-)
>
>>Look up the number on the FAQ. It definitely is an olds big block with G 
>>heads. Likely the rest of the engine is 71 too. Buy it!

Obvious answer: As little as possible  :o)))))))

Assuming the engine runs nicely with no untoward noises, adequate oil
pressure (the truck has an oil pressure gage as can be seen by the corroded
copper line running from the tap in the block next to the block ID
characters), no smoking, reasonable power/torque (a pickup with nothing in
the bed outta lay down much longer rubber streaks than both of the Geeting
Bros. combined  :o))))), decent tranny performance.... then the
engine/tranny's probly good for $400-$500. Add in the truck's value,
whatever that seems to be. Just my opinion. The engine does look like it's
been around the block some, kinda dirty here and there.

SteveH

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4846
*********************************
