
oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, April 21 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4863



Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
RE: Holley 750 DP too rich
Re: Harmonic Balancer Bolt
RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?
Re: Nomad
Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite
Re: Seeking Parts, 1970 Cutlass
Re: Seeking Parts, 1970 Cutlass 
RE: Silhouette/Transport/etc Turn Signal Problem
Re: Quadrajet tuning
Large Olds Toy Collection For Sale
RE: Large Olds Toy Collection For Sale
Mark Prince
RE: gear box rebuild-(late)
RE: gear box rebuild

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:39:30 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich

Pat,

I just thought of something else. When you take the bowl apart, take out the
brass float and shake it. Make sure there isn't any gas that has leaked
inside of it. However, it the float is a composite one, take a match and see
if the float lights. If it does, it has absorbed gas and must be replaced.
It's too heavy.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich


> Milton,
> there were two gaskets for the primary metering plate, one has the top lip
> of the metering gasket removed and the other doesn't. I used the one that
> was identical to the one that on the carb. In this case it had the small
> accelerator hole. Not the cut out.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> ------
> Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> > power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
> > primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
> > engine?
> I also didn't get any other parts with this kit. # 37-754.
> So I didn't even know that there were any back-fire protectors available.
I
> can tell by looking at the old power valve that it was bad. It was dry
> rotted. I am going to take the bowl back off and check the seats, blow out
> any debris, and check to see if the float tangs got damaged when I took
the
> old gasket off. Every gasket was glued to everything when seperated. It
was
> a tedious task and the possibility of dirt or a bent float could of
> happened. I was careful to blow out every orifice with 20 lbs. of air
before
> reassembly.
> Pat Swanton.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 4:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
>
>
> > > I finally got the Holley 750 rebuilt, and I dropped the floats to spec
> > > level. It was running rich. I dropped the primary float level even
more
> > and
> > > it is still dumping gas into the primaries at a fast rate.
> >
> >
> > The correct float setting is with the engine running, the sight plug
> > removed, and a very thin dribble of gas just barely washing out of the
> hole
> > for the sight plug.
> >
> > Either the needle and seat are bad or some debris is blocking the needle
> > open. There isn't much else it could be.
> >
> > Except, you did match the new bowl and metering plate gaskets to your
old
> > ones, didn't you? There are different gaskets. I can't remember if a
wrong
> > gasket could cause a runaway fuel problem, but I do know a wrong gasket
> can
> > block a needed passage and the carb won't flow gas at the right place.
> >
> > Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> > power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
> > primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
> > engine?
> >
> >
> > > I pulled all the plugs and regapped them to 45*. I was told the gap
> > > for a '74 350 rocket was @ 80*. Is that right?
> >
> >
> > Not to me. 0.045" is close enough to not put a strain on your HEI to
jump
> > the gap. 0.080" puts a real load on the HEI's system to fire that gap.
> There
> > are supposed to be real advantages to running a very wide gap, but I
only
> > run 0.035" on my MSD 7AL. Also, the wider the gap, the more heat
generated
> > at the gap, which erodes the electrodes. That's why typical spark plug
> gaps
> > for a magneteo are only 0.015".
> >
> >
> > > What else can I adjust to
> > > lean out the carb?
> >
> >
> > It's not an adjustment. You have a component malfunctioning.
> >
> >
> > > The carb I.D. # is 3310.
> >
> >
> > One of the most popular Holleys ever sold.
> >
> >
> > > I also didn't get the secondary diaphram with the
> > > rebuild kit, but I don't think that has anything to do with the idle.
> >
> >
> > No, that wouldn't affect your current problem, but it's inexcusable the
> part
> > wasn't in the kit.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:49:19 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich

Milton,
It is composite, I used to test motorcycle (mikuni) carb floats that way.
Thanks again Milton. Your always thinking.
Pat.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich


> Pat,
>
> I just thought of something else. When you take the bowl apart, take out
the
> brass float and shake it. Make sure there isn't any gas that has leaked
> inside of it. However, it the float is a composite one, take a match and
see
> if the float lights. If it does, it has absorbed gas and must be replaced.
> It's too heavy.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
>
>
> > Milton,
> > there were two gaskets for the primary metering plate, one has the top
lip
> > of the metering gasket removed and the other doesn't. I used the one
that
> > was identical to the one that on the carb. In this case it had the small
> > accelerator hole. Not the cut out.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > ------
> > Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> > > power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in
the
> > > primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into
the
> > > engine?
> > I also didn't get any other parts with this kit. # 37-754.
> > So I didn't even know that there were any back-fire protectors
available.
> I
> > can tell by looking at the old power valve that it was bad. It was dry
> > rotted. I am going to take the bowl back off and check the seats, blow
out
> > any debris, and check to see if the float tangs got damaged when I took
> the
> > old gasket off. Every gasket was glued to everything when seperated. It
> was
> > a tedious task and the possibility of dirt or a bent float could of
> > happened. I was careful to blow out every orifice with 20 lbs. of air
> before
> > reassembly.
> > Pat Swanton.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 4:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
> >
> >
> > > > I finally got the Holley 750 rebuilt, and I dropped the floats to
spec
> > > > level. It was running rich. I dropped the primary float level even
> more
> > > and
> > > > it is still dumping gas into the primaries at a fast rate.
> > >
> > >
> > > The correct float setting is with the engine running, the sight plug
> > > removed, and a very thin dribble of gas just barely washing out of the
> > hole
> > > for the sight plug.
> > >
> > > Either the needle and seat are bad or some debris is blocking the
needle
> > > open. There isn't much else it could be.
> > >
> > > Except, you did match the new bowl and metering plate gaskets to your
> old
> > > ones, didn't you? There are different gaskets. I can't remember if a
> wrong
> > > gasket could cause a runaway fuel problem, but I do know a wrong
gasket
> > can
> > > block a needed passage and the carb won't flow gas at the right place.
> > >
> > > Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for
the
> > > power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in
the
> > > primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into
the
> > > engine?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I pulled all the plugs and regapped them to 45*. I was told the gap
> > > > for a '74 350 rocket was @ 80*. Is that right?
> > >
> > >
> > > Not to me. 0.045" is close enough to not put a strain on your HEI to
> jump
> > > the gap. 0.080" puts a real load on the HEI's system to fire that gap.
> > There
> > > are supposed to be real advantages to running a very wide gap, but I
> only
> > > run 0.035" on my MSD 7AL. Also, the wider the gap, the more heat
> generated
> > > at the gap, which erodes the electrodes. That's why typical spark plug
> > gaps
> > > for a magneteo are only 0.015".
> > >
> > >
> > > > What else can I adjust to
> > > > lean out the carb?
> > >
> > >
> > > It's not an adjustment. You have a component malfunctioning.
> > >
> > >
> > > > The carb I.D. # is 3310.
> > >
> > >
> > > One of the most popular Holleys ever sold.
> > >
> > >
> > > > I also didn't get the secondary diaphram with the
> > > > rebuild kit, but I don't think that has anything to do with the
idle.
> > >
> > >
> > > No, that wouldn't affect your current problem, but it's inexcusable
the
> > part
> > > wasn't in the kit.
> > >
> > > Milton Schick
> > > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > > imp@theriver.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:55:31 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Holley 750 DP too rich

If the float is getting gas inside of it, it should be replaced.


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space Systems,
Inc.
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 5:40 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich

Pat,

I just thought of something else. When you take the bowl apart, take out the
brass float and shake it. Make sure there isn't any gas that has leaked
inside of it. However, it the float is a composite one, take a match and see
if the float lights. If it does, it has absorbed gas and must be replaced.
It's too heavy.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich


> Milton,
> there were two gaskets for the primary metering plate, one has the top lip
> of the metering gasket removed and the other doesn't. I used the one that
> was identical to the one that on the carb. In this case it had the small
> accelerator hole. Not the cut out.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> ------
> Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> > power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
> > primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
> > engine?
> I also didn't get any other parts with this kit. # 37-754.
> So I didn't even know that there were any back-fire protectors available.
I
> can tell by looking at the old power valve that it was bad. It was dry
> rotted. I am going to take the bowl back off and check the seats, blow out
> any debris, and check to see if the float tangs got damaged when I took
the
> old gasket off. Every gasket was glued to everything when seperated. It
was
> a tedious task and the possibility of dirt or a bent float could of
> happened. I was careful to blow out every orifice with 20 lbs. of air
before
> reassembly.
> Pat Swanton.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 4:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Holley 750 DP too rich
>
>
> > > I finally got the Holley 750 rebuilt, and I dropped the floats to spec
> > > level. It was running rich. I dropped the primary float level even
more
> > and
> > > it is still dumping gas into the primaries at a fast rate.
> >
> >
> > The correct float setting is with the engine running, the sight plug
> > removed, and a very thin dribble of gas just barely washing out of the
> hole
> > for the sight plug.
> >
> > Either the needle and seat are bad or some debris is blocking the needle
> > open. There isn't much else it could be.
> >
> > Except, you did match the new bowl and metering plate gaskets to your
old
> > ones, didn't you? There are different gaskets. I can't remember if a
wrong
> > gasket could cause a runaway fuel problem, but I do know a wrong gasket
> can
> > block a needed passage and the carb won't flow gas at the right place.
> >
> > Wait a minute, didn't you install those anti-backfire protectors for the
> > power valves in your carb? Is there any possibilty the protector in the
> > primary metering plate is screwing up and causing fuel to dump into the
> > engine?
> >
> >
> > > I pulled all the plugs and regapped them to 45*. I was told the gap
> > > for a '74 350 rocket was @ 80*. Is that right?
> >
> >
> > Not to me. 0.045" is close enough to not put a strain on your HEI to
jump
> > the gap. 0.080" puts a real load on the HEI's system to fire that gap.
> There
> > are supposed to be real advantages to running a very wide gap, but I
only
> > run 0.035" on my MSD 7AL. Also, the wider the gap, the more heat
generated
> > at the gap, which erodes the electrodes. That's why typical spark plug
> gaps
> > for a magneteo are only 0.015".
> >
> >
> > > What else can I adjust to
> > > lean out the carb?
> >
> >
> > It's not an adjustment. You have a component malfunctioning.
> >
> >
> > > The carb I.D. # is 3310.
> >
> >
> > One of the most popular Holleys ever sold.
> >
> >
> > > I also didn't get the secondary diaphram with the
> > > rebuild kit, but I don't think that has anything to do with the idle.
> >
> >
> > No, that wouldn't affect your current problem, but it's inexcusable the
> part
> > wasn't in the kit.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:28:00 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer Bolt

At 09:58 AM 4/20/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> On my old '72 LeMans, there were some counterbalancing holes in the edge
>of
>> the balancer, into one of which I dropped a 5/32" socket on a 1/4"-drive
>> ratchet handle, and swung the handle around to jam it against the block.
>> This locked the engine solidly enough that I could crack loose the
>balancer
>> bolt.
>
>
>That can be dangerous if those holes are in the outer rubber mounted
>harmonic ring. You could break the ring loose and destroy the harmonic
>balancer. If there is a crank balance mass on the back side of the center
>nub of the harmonic balancer that has balance holes in it, one could use
>those holes, but don't use any holes in the outer ring.

Consider doing what we used to do when tightening flywheel bolts: stick a
long screwdriver or bolt through a hole in the flywheel to jam against the
block in the rear.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:26:02 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Anyone done [an intake manifold gasket] on a '96 Silhouette?

At 04:35 PM 4/20/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm skeptical of additives in general (and don't even get me started on 
>Slick 50 :-) but I have to admit that a can of Bar's Leak did an amazing 
>(and permanent) job of sealing a hole punched in the radiator of my old '71 
>Austin America by raod debris many years ago, while I was on the road 
>somewhere and needed an emergency roadside fix.

Some three years ago, my 307's intake manifold gasket began leaking drip by
drip. The level in the coolant recovery tank rarely required refilling,
however... but I did all my driving around town. One day, I had an
interview some 130 miles away. Filled the coolant tank again and took off.
It was a very hot day for New England and wouldn't you know it... just
THREE MILES from the site of the interview, the car began overheating. I
had no idea where there were gas stations and it was another 10 minutes
before I found one. Keeping the engine running, I was able to refill the
radiator and get things cooled off, then went to the interview, about an
hour late  ;o(

Afterward, I found the intake manifold leak was now so large it was
spitting out a steady stream maybe 1/8th. Got to the gas station, refilled,
found a nearby Home Despot and bought a 5-gallon blue Kerosene jug then got
that filled, and finally hit the road for home again. Every 15 minutes or
miles, I had to stop to refill things... I kept the heater running and when
it no longer blew hot, I stopped and refilled at a gas station. There was
one gas station I stopped at up near Hartford that was the absolutely
GRUNGIOUS-looking gas station I've ever seen on the east coast... reminded
me of one of those abandoned stations you see in movies filmed in the
desert with abandoned cars all around, oil-soaked dirt parking lot, cut-off
tire stems cluttering the cracked concrete pavement around the pumps, etc.
And the guy had one of those really old-fashioned tin water buckets with
the big spout to complete the whole image  :o))))  Curiously, it was a
younger guy, too, maybe late-20s.

He hands me the tin can, I start filling it from the oil-coated old water
hose, and he steps back inside his garage then reappears a minute later,
holding a pair of Bar's Leak silver powder plastic containers. Tells me the
stuff's like magic and won't even clog the radiator or anything. I figger,
What the heck, why not. So we break up the powder and dump one into the
radiator then refill. I wait a few minutes and sure nuff, that 1/8th inch
stream of water suddenly peters out to a cupla drips, then NOTHING. WHOA...
The guy wouldn't even accept a $5 bill for the stuff, said he was glad he
could help someone like me  :o))))))

So I hit the road and stop after 15 mins... no leaking, the coolant tank's
still filled. Hit the road again for 30 minutes, stop, still no leaking and
tank's still filled. So I finish driving home.

Over the next 14-16 months or so, that Bar's Leak powder kept the leak at
bay. Eventually, it did open up again and I finally changed the gasket. My
water pump did die a cupla months after that but it developed the usual
weep-hole leak, and turned out to be the ORIGINAL 1988 water pump, having
accumulated something around 210K miles before failing. I haven't found any
evidence at all that the Bar's Leak powder did any clogging or other
damage. And I still have that second tube that great guy gave me that day
so long ago  :o)

>But the coolant passages, etc., of the 3.4L V6 are not the same as the old 
>Austin, and we're talking about an intake manifold gasket here, not a 
>radiator, so I'd like a little more consensus on this before adding Bar's 
>Leak. Horror stories or praise welcome...

My experience was with a good, ole, regular, run-of-the-mill,
cast-iron/aluminum-intake  American V8 engine. I can't testify that the
stuff will work as well in a later engine, especially one with lots of
aluminum. But maybe it's worth a try, as long's you're willing to accept
that at worst, you might have to replace the whole thing sometime.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:42:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Amadei <stephen@amadei.com>
Subject: Re: Nomad

On Tue, 20 Apr 2004, Bill Brooks wrote:

> This is in regard to your article about GM brass
> struggling with their little Nomad concept vehicle.
> They seem to think it's cute, but gosh, their focus
> groups are panning it, as  though we really need
> another retro-Mini wannabe.
>
> Creativity has been stifled at GM for so long...They
> should forget the Nomad 1954 concept car and look at
> the tri-5 Nomad.  Once they do, even GM execs can see
> that they can just modify a 2004 Monte Carlo - add a
> tall, long roofline that goes to the rear of the body
> with a near vertical hatchback or clamshell lid, and
> lots of glass along the way.
>
> I'd buy one!

NO NO NO NO NO!!!  The new 'little' Nomad is built on the same
platform as the Pontiac Solstice and the Saturn Curve... the Kappa
platform... it's RWD!!!!   It's basically a baby Corvette platform.

The Nomad idea could really be a cool ride... If you were to base it on
the Monte Carlo, you'll get a lousy 3.4 V6 or 3.8 V6 spinning the front
tires... total crap.

The Saturn Curve might be the first Saturn I am ever remotely interested
in.

I wish GM would've done this 5 years ago with an Oldsmobile!

Now that the Solstice is green lighted for production, I have every
intention of getting one and putting a LS1 (or 455 Poncho... yeah, right)
in it.  Death trap, baby!

					----Steve
Stephen Amadei
Dandy.NET!  CTO/CSO
Atlantic City, NJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:41:22 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge/Autometer,works opposite

At 10:11 AM 4/20/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I've never seen a stock sending unit work with an aftermarket fuel gauge
>like a Stewart Warner or Autometer. But there is another problem. The sender
>units for SW and Autometer are designed for use in square or round fuel
>tanks. The non-regular shapes of most OEM gas tanks will throw off the way
>the aftermarket sender reads to fuel level.

Ummm... yes and no. Yes, if the tank is not the same shape vertically: that
is, the sides slope in or out so that the top of the tank holds more or
less fuel than the bottom. But otherwise, if the tank is "linear" in terms
of vertical-height, a linear fuel sender is what you want.

Thus, an original-equipment fuel tank that's oddly-shaped such as being
very narrow at the bottom but wider at the top, might be expected to have a
fuel sender specifically designed to match the fuel volume of that tank at
any particular level of fuel.

>I have a SW fuel gauge in Thunder and had to use the SW sender in 
>her gas tank. To get even a remotely accurate reading, I mounted the 
>sender in the very top center of the gas
>tank, which means there's a hole cut in the trunk floor to access the
>sender. Then, automotive sealing putty is placed between the top of the gas
>tank and the bottom of the trunk floor to keep crap out of the trunk. It
>works, it's not necessarily pretty, and the gas tank sender is still only
>about 75% accurate. Over time with use, I have learned to understand what
>the fuel gauge indication means as to fuel load status.

That's about the accuracy of most OEM fuel gages  ;o((((((  The one in my
full-sized wagon may indicate 1/2 tank but I know from experience that is
actually roughly 1/3rd of a tank. My ole '66 Ch*bby pickup truck, OTOH, was
EXTREMELY accurate, perhaps because its tank was very tall but very narrow
horizontally, since it fit behind the seats.

The typical fuel sender resistance is 90 ohms; that seems to have been a
standard since at least the 1940's. I've noticed most aftermarket senders
are also specified to be 90 ohms, because they are all originally designed
to replace the original "ugly" stock gage but to keep the original OEM
tank. Specially-designed fuel tanks such as for boats, racing, hand-built
rods, etc. almost always come with senders to match and usually you can buy
a standard after fuel gage, such as SW or Autometer or Nordskog... but not
always. Often, you have the option of using the stock gage with the new
tank and sender.

>If I had it to do all over again, I would figure out a way to incorporate
>the stock fuel gauge into her custom dash panel. The SW or Autometer gauge
>isn't worth the aggravation.

I've never liked the looks of aftermarket fuel gages.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 19:22:42 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Seeking Parts, 1970 Cutlass

- -------------------------------1082503361
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/20/2004 4:27:45 PM Central Standard 
Time,ssreed@direcway.com writes:
All,
    I'm looking for a few NOS parts that aren't available reproduction.

1.  Headlight Bezel
2.  Cigarette Bezel
3.  Heater/Fan Speed/Hot-Cold chrome Knobs

Also wondering if anyone has any excellent condition Door Sill Plates, for a
ragtop.

Any leads are appreciated!
Steve,
        I have a set of 70 headlight bezels that are reproductions, as well 
as some excellent used heater knobs.  Contact me off list fro details.
Steve D

- -------------------------------1082503361
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
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<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 4/20/2004 4:27:45 PM Central Standard Time,<FONT fac=
e=3DHelvetica>ssreed@direcway.com </FONT>writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DHelvetica>All,<BR>&nbsp; &nbsp; I'm looking for a fe=
w NOS parts that aren't available reproduction.<BR><BR>1.&nbsp; Headlight Be=
zel<BR>2.&nbsp; Cigarette Bezel<BR>3.&nbsp; Heater/Fan Speed/Hot-Cold chrome=
 Knobs<BR><BR>Also wondering if anyone has any excellent condition Door Sill=
 Plates, for a<BR>ragtop.<BR><BR>Any leads are appreciated!</FONT></BLOCKQUO=
TE></DIV>
<DIV>Steve,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a set of 70 headlight=
 bezels that are reproductions, as well as some excellent used heater knobs.=
&nbsp; Contact me off list fro details.</DIV>
<DIV>Steve D</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1082503361--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 19:27:05 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Seeking Parts, 1970 Cutlass 

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/20/2004 4:27:45 PM Central Standard Time, 
ssreed@direcway.com writes; Also wondering if anyone has any excellent condition Door Sill 
Plates, for a
ragtop.

Any leads are appreciated!
Steve,
      Sorry, forgot to mention.  I have a couple of NOS GM, not reproduction 
sill plates.  Left side only though, but who cares?  You only visit the left 
side anyway.  Who cares what the passenger sill plate looks like?  Just 
kidding.  Not about only having the one side though.  Hit me off list for details,
Steve D

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 4/20/2004 4:27:45 PM Central Standard Time, <FONT fa=
ce=3DHelvetica><A href=3D"mailto:ssreed@direcway.com">ssreed@direcway.com</A=
> </FONT>writes; <FONT face=3DHelvetica>Also wondering if anyone has any exc=
ellent condition Door Sill Plates, for a<BR>ragtop.<BR><BR>Any leads are app=
reciated!</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Steve,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sorry, forgot to mention.&nbsp; I have a=
 couple of NOS GM, not reproduction sill plates.&nbsp; Left side only though=
, but who cares?&nbsp; You only visit the left side anyway.&nbsp; Who cares=20=
what the passenger sill plate looks like?&nbsp; Just kidding.&nbsp; Not abou=
t only having the one side though.&nbsp; Hit me off list for details,</DIV>
<DIV>Steve D</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1082503624--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 23:35:32 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Silhouette/Transport/etc Turn Signal Problem

At 08:06 PM 4/20/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>62oldsfan@comcast.net writes:
>>[...nothing...]
>
>Check your battery connections.  :-)

ROTFLMSAO

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 20:33:33 -0400
From: "Joe" <w30442@zoominternet.net>
Subject: Re: Quadrajet tuning

> First off, what are the numbers off of the 2 carbs? This is stamped
vertically on the passenger side of the body, and should read something like
7040251.  When you swapped the secondary metering rods, did you swap the
hangers?  You say the car does not have as much power as it used to.  Does
you mean at part throttle or wide open throttle?
>
> There is likely a difference in the primary rods and jets of the 2 carbs
but that may or may not have an effect depending on what you are talking
about.
>
Kevin, Mike

>I did swap the secondary rods with the hanger. And it doesn't bog under
WOT. When referring to not as much power, I mean under WOT. Now that I think
about it, I will have to check and see if I took the old jets out of the
other carb. I will get the carb numbers too. Probably check it out this
weekend.

Thanks
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 23:27:34 EDT
From: Olznut@aol.com
Subject: Large Olds Toy Collection For Sale

- -------------------------------1082518054
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I gotta sell my collection off to fund better things, like real Olds, pay off 
bills to get house, etc etc so I gotta do it. I've been collecting for almost 
20 years, and aquired about 500 Olds toys from the 50's to the 90's of 
various sizes, promos, die casts, models, etc. Got rare stuff like '64 Cutlass conv 
promo, '65 88 conv & h/t promo, '60 98 promo friction and more, lots of Hot 
Wheels size cars like a green Flat Out 442, J/L, etc, lots of 1/18 diecast like 
a Peach State dark red '69 442. Let me know what you want, and I'll answer up 
if I have it. I don't want to do it, but the future looks bright if I do. I 
took some digital pics, but my brother is the one that knows how to put them on 
the computer so I gotta wait for him. 


Ed "Olznut" Halterman Sunland, Ca '03 Ram Laramie 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Bed 
HEMI "Big Red" '66 Olds F-85 330 V-8, Intense Blue "Project Olds" Will Be 
Finished Sometime This Millenium!! 

- -------------------------------1082518054
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2737.800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">I gotta sell my collection off to fund better things, like real Olds, pay=
 off bills to get house, etc etc so I gotta do it. I've been collecting for=20=
almost 20 years, and aquired about 500 Olds toys from the 50's to the 90's o=
f various sizes, promos, die casts, models, etc. Got rare stuff like '64 Cut=
lass conv promo, '65 88 conv &amp; h/t promo, '60 98 promo friction and more=
, lots of Hot Wheels size cars like a green Flat Out 442, J/L, etc, lots of=20=
1/18 diecast like a Peach State dark red '69 442. Let me know what you want,=
 and I'll answer up if I have it. I don't want to do it, but the future look=
s bright if I do. I took some digital pics, but my brother is the one that k=
nows how to put them on the computer so I gotta wait for him.=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Ed "Olznut" Halterman Sunland, Ca '03 Ram Laramie 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Be=
d HEMI "Big Red" '66 Olds F-85 330 V-8, Intense Blue "Project Olds" Will Be=20=
Finished Sometime This Millenium!! <BR><BR><BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1082518054--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 00:00:01 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Large Olds Toy Collection For Sale

Contact Bob from Desert Dog Auto Parts. He is an Olds nut and is planning to
launch a new web site for buying/selling/trading the very toys you describe.
I'm sure he'd like to hear from you. I just exchanged a few emails with him
today (Ddogap@aol.com).

John Nasta

p.s. Please turn off the html. Otherwise most of the responses to your
message will never make it to the list.


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Olznut@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 11:28 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Large Olds Toy Collection For Sale

I gotta sell my collection off to fund better things, like real Olds, pay
off bills to get house, etc etc so I gotta do it. I've been collecting for
almost 20 years, and aquired about 500 Olds toys from the 50's to the 90's
of various sizes, promos, die casts, models, etc. Got rare stuff like '64
Cutlass conv promo, '65 88 conv & h/t promo, '60 98 promo friction and more,
lots of Hot Wheels size cars like a green Flat Out 442, J/L, etc, lots of
1/18 diecast like a Peach State dark red '69 442. Let me know what you want,
and I'll answer up if I have it. I don't want to do it, but the future looks
bright if I do. I took some digital pics, but my brother is the one that
knows how to put them on the computer so I gotta wait for him.


Ed "Olznut" Halterman Sunland, Ca '03 Ram Laramie 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Bed
HEMI "Big Red" '66 Olds F-85 330 V-8, Intense Blue "Project Olds" Will Be
Finished Sometime This Millenium!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 00:13:06 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: Mark Prince

Hi Guys,
    Has anyone heard from Mark Prince lately? I'm involved in a 
transaction with him but he seems to have disappeared.
Thanks,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: gear box rebuild-(late)

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snip
Bill G wrote
>I really don't like the response or feel of either gear box, ever since 
> the front end rebuild I have felt that something was still not right.
>  
> Bill G
> 67 Delta 88 Custom
> 87 Custom Wagon(almost there)
 
>John Kelsey wrote

>Bill G
 >  I don't know exactly what you mean by "something is not right" with 
>the steering box but there is a really simple over center adjustment 
>that might fix the feel. Then the reseal is not too hard

John
Sorry for late response-on digest mode plus work two jobs-the original box turned easy to left but right turn had more resistance. It is the opposite with the current gear box.Last time in the shop the guy told me thats it for adjustments, if I want it tighter to rebuild the box and of course replace the centerlink.
 The front was rebuilt in 2000, including centerlink, thought that would last longer. Seems Fred Nissen has owned a few big cars and has advise that this is a weak spot in the 65-70 big car chassis. Thanks Fred something I didn't know about.
 
Bill G 
67 Delta 88 Custom
87 Custom Wagon (on hold now)


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<DIV>snip</DIV>
<DIV>Bill G wrote<BR>&gt;I really don't like the response or feel of either gear box, ever since <BR>&gt; the front end rebuild I have felt that something was still not right.<BR>&gt;&nbsp; <BR>&gt; Bill G<BR>&gt; 67 Delta 88 Custom<BR>&gt; 87 Custom Wagon(almost there)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;John Kelsey wrote</DIV>
<DIV><BR>&gt;Bill G<BR>&nbsp;&gt;&nbsp; I don't know exactly what you mean by "something is not right" with <BR>&gt;the steering box but there is a really simple over center adjustment <BR>&gt;that might fix the feel. Then the reseal is not too hard<BR></DIV>
<DIV>John</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry for late response-on digest mode plus work two jobs-the original box turned easy to left but right turn had more resistance. It is the opposite with the current gear box.Last time in the shop the guy told me thats it for adjustments, if I want it tighter to rebuild the box and of course replace the centerlink.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;The front was rebuilt in&nbsp;2000, including centerlink, thought that would last longer. Seems Fred Nissen has owned a few big cars and has advise that this is a weak spot in the 65-70 big car chassis. Thanks Fred something I didn't know about.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bill G </DIV>
<DIV>67 Delta 88 Custom</DIV>
<DIV>87 Custom Wagon (on hold now)<BR></DIV>
- --0-1768400138-1082523357=:32756--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:47:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: gear box rebuild

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Fred wrote
>I'd wager 99% of the front end looseness is the center link. It is a weak
>spot on the '65-'70 big car chassis. If you have the Saginaw design, 
>they are a bit hard to come by, but there are a few guys rebuilding them.  
>Hit me privately if you run into a stone wall finding one.  I'd reseal or send 
>out for rebuilding the original box.  If you send it out, there are guys 
>who can convert it to variable ratio and modernize the feel a bit.  I don't 
>mind the 60's steering feel if everything is tight.  It does take a bit of 
>getting used if you mostly drive new cars.

>Regards,
>Fred
>Several '69 big Olds + others

Fred
Sorry for late respnse, very busy and on digest mode, The car does not have Saginaw design but the centerlink is not easy to come by. I did get one from Rare Parts. A friend of mine has an account with them, so I got it at his cost plus shipping.
The newest car i ever had was a 84 aka money pit (Furd), I must admit this is the first big car I've had since the 70's and that was a 59 belair, man what a smoker 2 qts of oil every tankful. I've had this car for 6 yrs now, and l may be expecting to much out of the old car. I may never be satisfied, but I be happy trying.
Thanks for the info on the centerlink being the big cars weak link, that explains the need for a new one already. Now if I can only get MTV to Pimp My Ride.
 
Bill G 
67 Delta 88 Custom 
87 Custom Wagon 


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<DIV>Fred wrote</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;I'd wager 99% of the front end looseness is the center link. It is a weak<BR>&gt;spot on the '65-'70 big car chassis. If you have the Saginaw design, <BR>&gt;they are a bit hard to come by, but there are a few guys rebuilding them.&nbsp; <BR>&gt;Hit me privately if you run into a stone wall finding one.&nbsp; I'd reseal or send <BR>&gt;out for rebuilding the original box.&nbsp; If you send it out, there are guys <BR>&gt;who can convert it to variable ratio and modernize the feel a bit.&nbsp; I don't <BR>&gt;mind the 60's steering feel if everything is tight.&nbsp; It does take a bit of <BR>&gt;getting used if you mostly drive new cars.<BR><BR>&gt;Regards,<BR>&gt;Fred<BR>&gt;Several '69 big Olds + others<BR></DIV>
<DIV>Fred</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry for late respnse, very busy and on digest mode, The car does not have Saginaw design but the centerlink is not easy to come by. I did get one from Rare Parts. A friend of mine has an account with them, so I got it at his cost plus shipping.</DIV>
<DIV>The newest car i ever had was a 84&nbsp;aka money pit (Furd), I must admit this is the first big car I've had since the 70's and that was a 59 belair, man what a smoker&nbsp;2 qts of oil every tankful. I've had this car for 6 yrs now, and l may be&nbsp;expecting to much out of the old car.&nbsp;I may never be satisfied, but&nbsp;I be happy trying.</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for the info on the centerlink being the big cars weak link, that explains the need for a new one already. Now if I can only get MTV to Pimp My Ride.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bill G </DIV>
<DIV>67 Delta 88 Custom&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>87 Custom Wagon <BR></DIV>
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4863
*********************************
