
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 5 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4878



Radiator Wanted
Re: Recycling antifreeze..
Rear Control Arm Hardware
Another 350, 1977 issue, core to rebuild, cheap
RE: Off topic
RE: Off topic
Re: looking for interior "post" trim
RE: looking for interior "post" trim
Re: Need advice on 72 Cutlass 455 w/air engine
Re: "New" 1975 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
RE: looking for interior "post" trim
Procedure for removing steering box?
RE: looking for interior "post" trim
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #4877
RE: Off topic
Re: fun with A/C (resend?)
Re: Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c
85 Salon for sale
Vent window cranks
NYC/Long Island Spring Dust Off,
RE: NYC/Long Island Spring Dust Off,

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 00:47:26 -0400
From: oldslist@nuthinfancy.com
Subject: Radiator Wanted

Hey gang,

I am currently looking for a radiator for a 1970 442 4 speed (no holes
for tranny lines). This is the radiator with the "XJ" code stamped into
the tank. If anyone has one for sale or knows of someone selling one
please contact me.

Thanks for the help!

Regards,

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 06:34:42 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Jay Britt <jbritt67@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Recycling antifreeze..

Do you have an Advance Auto store near you?. Most here in S.E. Virginia will accept antifreeze and trans fluid.

Jay

- -----Original Message-----
At 12:04 AM 05/04/2004 +0000, SteveH wrote:
>I'd LOVE to find a place that'd take my old antifreeze, stead of having to
>consider dumping it down the drain. None the stores want it and the Yarde
>doesn't, either. There was one down in Virginia that did "recycle" it,
>though. The stores do take oil and tranny fluid.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 10:11:04 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Rear Control Arm Hardware

>From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
>Subject: Rear Control Arm Hardware
>
>I'm replacing the rear axle in my '72 88.  Since the 32 years have
>basically frozen the nuts on the lower and upper control arm-to-rear
>mounting bolts, it looks like I am going to have to sawzall them off.  What
>is a good source for replacing them?
>
>Thanks,
>Bob DeMuth.
>'72 88 conv
>some other stuff

Check with Chris Witt and see if he has any. That dandy new parts cleaner of 
his
has been at work for a while now making old hardware look like new again.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ
====================
Yeah...
washer taking a break
Mass qtys of sorted fasteners on hand
cooler full of unsorted stuff.

Buckets decided not to come apart anymore, makes swapping loads tough
Time for Version 2 I think.
The thing works great on Oil Fill Tubes, too. Inside and out.

I do have SOME rear susp. bolts, hard to find extractable here, '75 D88 did 
donate some nice ones, gotta FIND them. Mostly I have been collecting and 
sorting engine related items.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 10:13:08 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Another 350, 1977 issue, core to rebuild, cheap

Appears to be 1977
turns easily, no obvious problems
came from auction where 68 98 LS was.
Stripped down to the long block yesterday
$30 for what's left, buildable core. That's about what I can get for it as 
scrap.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 15:09:18 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Off topic

>The 442 has become my semi-daily driver now, as the wife managed
>to throw a rod in the bmw and is still employed.

Well, you're nicer than I am. If my wife had thrown a rod in my BMW, I would 
have fired her.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page – FREE 
download! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 18:51:12 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: RE: Off topic

look at this way . thanks to the wife you now can drive a real car. not a over priced one.
ron
> >The 442 has become my semi-daily driver now, as the wife managed
> >to throw a rod in the bmw and is still employed.
> 
> Well, you're nicer than I am. If my wife had thrown a rod in my BMW, I would 
> have fired her.
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page – FREE 
> download! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 15:02:52 -0400 
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: looking for interior "post" trim

Everett wrote:
>These are really tuff to find, I don't have any and had a hard time finding
a set last year for a customer.
>If you are able to find them don't be fussy about the color.

Everett,

Thank you for confirming my fears...I figured as much.  Ah well, I rescind
my statements.  Any and all colors welcome. If you come across any, keep me
in mind and thanks for the tip!

John Nasta wrote:
>There are three different ones depending on whether it's a coupe,
>sedan (2dr post car, 4dr, wagon), or convertible.
>Type PXM into the search box on my site to see the listings.

John,

 I did so and came up with "A pillar" moldings only.  I'm looking for the
"post" pillar molding, as in that which covers the interior of a post
coupe's, well, um, post!  Basically, the post at the front of the rear
seat's window.  Sorry if I'm muddling words here, I'm in confusion mode
today!

Does this pillar have a name other than "the post"?

The search continues...

Thanks again,

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 15:20:53 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: looking for interior "post" trim

Yes, it's called a B-pillar. Sorry, I've never seen interior moldings for
those in the aftermarket.

BTW, the one in the back is called a C-pillar (a.k.a. sail panel).

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

John,

 I did so and came up with "A pillar" moldings only.  I'm looking for the
"post" pillar molding, as in that which covers the interior of a post
coupe's, well, um, post!  Basically, the post at the front of the rear
seat's window.  Sorry if I'm muddling words here, I'm in confusion mode
today!

Does this pillar have a name other than "the post"?

The search continues...

Thanks again,

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 12:27:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geo <geogeethree@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Need advice on 72 Cutlass 455 w/air engine

In case anyone is wondering, for a '72 Cutlass, the
procedure for removing/reinstalling heads on a 455 is
slightly different than on a 350.  More clearance is
needed since the 455 is wider, which makes it closer
to the power brake booster and a/c box.  I don't have
the '72 CSM with me since i'm at work, but i do
remember at some point during the procedure that the
engine has to be disconnected from at least one of the
engine mounts and raised for clearance.  Michael, let
me know if you need for me to check the manual when i
get home.  By then someone will probably refer to
theirs and post here anyway.

Geo
'72 442
Digest Mode


> Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 08:46:27 -0400
> From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
> Subject: Need advice on 72 Cutlass 455 w/air engine
> reassembly (in the car).
> 
> Sorry about the last blank post, I hit the return
> key too fast.
> 
> I have removed the heads from my 1972 Cutlass 455
> with factory air.  Removing 
> the passenger head was a challenge.  I had to "tilt"
> the head downward and then 
> slide the two rear push rods out thru the lifter
> galley area. I was unable to 
> pull them out thru the top of the head because the
> air conditioning "box" on 
> the firewall was in the way.  Also the second from
> the last head bolt could not 
> be removed until the head was completely off the
> block.  
> 
> My question is: Do I need to move the air
> conditioning "box" in order to 
> reassemble the heads back on the engine block.  How
> much trouble is it to move 
> the air conditioning "box".  
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> Mike McDonald
> McDonald_M@72ho.com
> 
> 1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
>     "as seen on Speed TV"
>    The American Musclecar    
>             or
>         www.72ho.com
> 



	
		
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 15:33:43 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: "New" 1975 Delta 88 Royale Convertible

- -------------------------------1083699223
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 5/3/2004 7:35:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
vze210y3@verizon.net writes:
As I'm used to shopping for A body parts, I could use some pointers from big
Car folks.  Priorities are fixing the obvious problems, including a decent
stereo (as this will be a summertime driver), the clock and the top motor,
And the A/C.  
Scott,
Congratulations, you've just bought a great highway cruiser. Stereo choices 
are many. Make sure the installer does not butcher your dash. Kenwood makes a 
model that fits for about $100. Check Hemmings for Clock Doc  or others that 
will repair or digitalize your clock. Remember the sound and movement differs if 
you digitalize. Top Motors are easy to find. Remove the rear cushion, remove 
the seat belt anchor bolts from the tabs that hold the back rest. The motor 
sit squarely in the center attached to the frame by, I think, three bolts. This 
is also a good time to check and replace the top cables. Left and right go for 
about $40 each new. The a/c can run about $500 or more to replace all with 
new components, but it will be well worth it.
In addition to sources for the mentioned parts, can I get some
pointers on replacing the top motor, and looking for other issues that might
be expected with a car like this.  Seems well maintained with clean oil and
coolant, but I'm sure there are demons under the hood, given the lengthy
storage.  What should I look for?   Should I replace all belts and hoses?
First thing I'd check is the clarity of the brake fluid. That will give you 
an idea how well the car has been maintained. Second, I would replace the oil 
with Mobil one. My Delta 350 never ran as smooth as it does since I've done 
that. Unless you have maintenance receipts when you bought the car ( I did) Check 
the belts for wear and replace where necessary, and definitely replace upper 
and lower Rad hoses, fuel pump hoses, fuel lines, etc. Don't forget about the 
trans fluid and filter, and power steering fluids, carb fuel filter. My car 
needed springs, as the car was listing to one side. I found Moog a good 
replacement. There are a number of good shocks to get. I like Monroe sensamatic (sp?) 
Nice cushy feel for a battle cruiser. Duals are the Peice de Resistance for 
the car. Sounds and runs great.
Have fun!

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

- -------------------------------1083699223
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>In a message dated 5/3/2004 7:35:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, vze210y3@=
verizon.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>As I'm used to shopping for A body parts, I co=
uld use some pointers from big<BR>Car folks.&nbsp; Priorities are fixing the=
 obvious problems, including a decent<BR>stereo (as this will be a summertim=
e driver), the clock and the top motor,<BR>And the A/C.&nbsp; </FONT></BLOCK=
QUOTE>
<DIV>Scott,</DIV>
<DIV>Congratulations, you've just bought a great highway cruiser. Stereo cho=
ices are many. Make sure the installer does not butcher your dash. Kenwood m=
akes a model that fits for about $100. Check Hemmings for Clock Doc&nbsp; or=
 others that will repair or digitalize your clock. Remember the sound and mo=
vement differs if you digitalize. Top Motors are easy to find. Remove the re=
ar cushion, remove the seat belt anchor bolts from the tabs that hold the ba=
ck rest. The motor sit squarely in the center attached to the frame by, I th=
ink, three bolts. This is also a good time to check and replace the top cabl=
es. Left and right go for about $40 each new. The a/c can run about $500 or=20=
more to replace all with new components, but it will be well worth it.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>In addition to sources for the mentioned parts=
, can I get some<BR>pointers on replacing the top motor, and looking for oth=
er issues that might<BR>be expected with a car like this.&nbsp; Seems well m=
aintained with clean oil and<BR>coolant, but I'm sure there are demons under=
 the hood, given the lengthy<BR>storage.&nbsp; What should I look for?&nbsp;=
&nbsp; Should I replace all belts and hoses?</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>First thing I'd check is the clarity of the brake fluid. That will give=
 you an idea how well the car has been maintained. Second, I would replace t=
he oil with Mobil one. My Delta 350 never ran as smooth as it does since I'v=
e done that. Unless you have maintenance receipts when you bought the car (=20=
I did) Check the belts for wear and replace where necessary, and definitely=20=
replace upper and lower Rad hoses, fuel pump hoses, fuel lines, etc. Don't f=
orget about the trans fluid and filter, and power steering fluids, carb fuel=
 filter. My car needed springs, as the car was listing to one side. I found=20=
Moog a good replacement. There are a number of good shocks to get. I like Mo=
nroe sensamatic (sp?) Nice cushy feel for a battle cruiser. Duals are the Pe=
ice de Resistance for the car. Sounds and runs great.</DIV>
<DIV>Have fun!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190=
 SL Conv.<BR>92 Eldo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1083699223--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 15:55:46 -0400 
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: RE: looking for interior "post" trim

John Nasta wrote:
>
>Yes, it's called a B-pillar. Sorry, I've never seen interior moldings for
those in the aftermarket.
>BTW, the one in the back is called a C-pillar (a.k.a. sail panel).

And I thought the C pillar was called the B pillar; makes sense,
alphabetically speaking!  See, ya learn something new every day. What about
on a holiday coupe w/o the post?  Does the C pillar revert to B or stay
named C, which seems to make more sense? :)

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 16:06:30 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Procedure for removing steering box?

- -------------------------------1083701190
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I need to replace the steering box in my 72 Cutlass. Can anyone give me a 
step by step procedure?
Tia

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

- -------------------------------1083701190
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I need to replace the steering box in my 72 Cutlass. Can anyone give me=
 a step by step procedure?</DIV>
<DIV>Tia</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190=
 SL Conv.<BR>92 Eldo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1083701190--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 16:44:53 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: looking for interior "post" trim

It's always called a C-pillar.


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gerow, Daniel R.
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 3:56 PM
To: Olds List
Subject: RE: looking for interior "post" trim

John Nasta wrote:
>
>Yes, it's called a B-pillar. Sorry, I've never seen interior moldings for
those in the aftermarket.
>BTW, the one in the back is called a C-pillar (a.k.a. sail panel).

And I thought the C pillar was called the B pillar; makes sense,
alphabetically speaking!  See, ya learn something new every day. What about
on a holiday coupe w/o the post?  Does the C pillar revert to B or stay
named C, which seems to make more sense? :)

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 19:22:49 EDT
From: Kato111@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #4877

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The Spring Dust-Off was held at Firemen's Field in Long Island on Sunday, May 
2nd.
I didn't bring my '63 Olds because of the off-and-on-rain.  A lot of cars 
weren't there.

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>The Spring Dust-Off was held at Firemen's Field in Long Island on Sunda=
y, May 2nd.</DIV>
<DIV>I didn't bring my '63 Olds because of the off-and-on-rain.&nbsp; A lot=20=
of cars weren't there.</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1083712969--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 16:26:12 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: RE: Off topic

I really need her working though.. At least until I can afford the garage 
(hopefully next spring)

M


At 03:09 PM 5/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>The 442 has become my semi-daily driver now, as the wife managed
>>to throw a rod in the bmw and is still employed.
>
>Well, you're nicer than I am. If my wife had thrown a rod in my BMW, I 
>would have fired her.
>
>-- Andy

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 19:21:36 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: fun with A/C (resend?)

On Apr 30, 2004, at 10:18 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 02:08:48 -0400
> From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
> Subject: fun with A/C (resend?)

<snip>
>
> Then I remember something from this list again!  Or at least I think I
> remember.... wasn't there one or two people here that used this stuff
> called "ES-12"?
>
> How's the ES-12 behaved in the long run?  Does it play nicely with the 
> old
> mineral oil used in the R12 systems?  I'm thinking I might just use 
> ES-12
> instead of R12.  Unless someone's got a can of the latter 
> dirt-cheap....
>
I used Envirosafe ES-12A in my '70 Sports Coupe.
It works fine with mineral oil (or the oils used in 134a systems, for 
that matter.) I replaced all my lines, seals, expansion valve, and 
dryer last summer, and then put in 3 cans of ES-12A, which was a little 
less than ti actually needed by the charts, but was all I had. 6 oz. of 
ES-12A is equivalent to 18 oz. of R-12.
The cans have the same fittings as 134a, and you're supposed to use 
R-134a conversion fittings, but they do sell charge hoses that works 
with either type of manifold.
My system cooled to about 50 degrees (since I didn't have enough 
refrigerant), and would still do so until a short time ago, when I had 
to release some of it in order to remove the low pressure schrader 
valve to put a right angle adapter fitting on the car. Otherwise it was 
very difficult to put the charge hoses on. I'll be re-charging it 
sometime this month, as soon as I get around to ordering a 6-pack of 
ES-12a.
Envirosafe info and sales here:
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
and here:
http://befreetech.com/envirosafe.htm
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 20:59:46 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c

On May 1, 2004, at 11:54 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 01:56:09 +0000
> From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: Freeze-12...Re: Fun with a/c
>
> At 09:42 PM 5/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> Alas, even Freeze-12 requires the store to ask for proof of 
>> certification!
>> What they hey?  I thought the purpose of Freeze-12 was to not damage 
>> the
>> ozone!
>
> Oh hey, Joe, even *I* already got my certification ;o)  Just go to 
> this site:
> http://www.imaca.org/sg-all.htm
>
> Takes an hour or so of reading then take the test and pays your money 
> and
> away you goes  :o)  You can go back to the store in the morning, 
> present
> yer printed-out "card", and get those last cupla cans afore someone 
> else does.

Got my sec 609 certification from them. Test is open book (or browser), 
and fairly easy for anyone with sense.
Hey, it's gone down.! Now it's $15 - I paid $20!
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 22:20:37 EDT
From: OldsAce@aol.com
Subject: 85 Salon for sale

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I've been a member on this list for a few years.  I have an 85 Cutlass Salon 
that needs a new home.  Owned since new but has seen better days. Once to be a 
"project" but never happened.   Maybe a great "parts car"?  Silver w/ good 
gray interior, small crack in dash corner above radio, 14"SS, buckets, console, 
rally pack, etc.  3.8 w/ 200C (weak reverse).  Light hail damage, rf fender 
bent and rf header panel broken compliments of someone else. Door bottoms 
rusted. No rust hood and trunk lid. Runs and drives.  Complete car and all 
glass/lenses are good.  New daughters car requires space in driveway. Hate to see it 
wind up in the "bone yard". Located in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  Can have pix 
available.
 Hit me off list BvilleStew@aol.com  Mike

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<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Gill Sans MT" color=3D#010101>I've been a member on this=20=
list for a few years.&nbsp; I have an 85 Cutlass Salon that needs a new home=
.&nbsp; Owned since new but has seen better days.&nbsp;Once to be a "project=
" but never happened.&nbsp;&nbsp; Maybe a great "parts car"?&nbsp; Silver w/=
 good gray interior, small crack&nbsp;in dash corner above radio, 14"SS, buc=
kets, console, rally pack, etc.&nbsp; 3.8 w/ 200C (weak reverse).&nbsp; Ligh=
t hail damage, rf fender bent and rf header panel broken compliments of some=
one else.&nbsp;Door bottoms rusted. No rust hood and trunk lid. Runs and dri=
ves.&nbsp; Complete car and all glass/lenses are good.&nbsp; New daughters c=
ar requires space in driveway.&nbsp;Hate to see it wind up in the "bone yard=
".&nbsp;Located in Minneapolis, Minnesota.&nbsp; Can have pix available.</FO=
NT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Gill Sans MT" color=3D#010101>&nbsp;</FONT><FONT face=3D"=
Gill Sans MT" color=3D#010101>Hit me off list <A href=3D"mailto:BvilleStew@a=
ol.com">BvilleStew@aol.com</A>&nbsp; Mike</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 21:01:55 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Vent window cranks

I just noticed tonight that my vent window cranks turn in opposite 
directions.  Drivers door, vent window turns the same direction as the main 
window to open, passenger side, the vent crank turns the opposite direction 
of the main window to open.  Is this normal or are the cranks 
interchangeable from side to side?

M


Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 00:42:15 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: NYC/Long Island Spring Dust Off,

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In a message dated 5/4/2004 7:26:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kato111@aol.com 
writes:
The Spring Dust-Off was held at Firemen's Field in Long Island on Sunday, May 
2nd.
I didn't bring my '63 Olds because of the off-and-on-rain.  A lot of cars 
weren't there
I really do not understand my local NYC/Long Island Olds club.....

They had a rain date on the calender,  but chose not  to use it.

They have a website  for the club that usually only has LAST YEARS dust off 
information unless you check a month before the show. That is the ONLY time 
they update it   They offer absolutly nothing else on their website.

I thought that NYC was supposed to be one of, if not the best city in the 
country?????  

Sorry for the rant all.

Vinny

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<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 5/4/2004 7:26:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kato111@a=
ol.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The Spring Dust-Off was held at Firemen's F=
ield in Long Island on Sunday, May 2nd.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I didn't bring my '63 Olds because of the o=
ff-and-on-rain.&nbsp; A lot of cars weren't there</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><=
/DIV>
<DIV>I really do not understand my local NYC/Long Island Olds club.....</DIV=
>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>They had a rain date on the calender,&nbsp; but chose not&nbsp; to use=20=
it.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>They have a website&nbsp; for the club that usually only has LAST YEARS=
 dust off information unless you check a month before the show. That is the=20=
ONLY time they update it&nbsp;&nbsp; They offer absolutly nothing else on th=
eir website.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I thought that NYC was supposed to be one of, if not the best city in t=
he country?????&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry for the rant all.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 01:02:13 -0400
From: oldslist@nuthinfancy.com
Subject: RE: NYC/Long Island Spring Dust Off,

Vinny,

I'm going to have to rant also...

I too am somewhat disappointed with the LI/NY Chapter of the Oldsmobile
club's decision NOT to exercise the rain date! I spoke to some of the
attendees and they said that it was a VERY poor turn out. Also,
according to an attendee the "cars show" was touch and go for awhile due
to a lack of entries... but, a decision was made to continue with it :(

Not to kick them while they are down but...that website of theirs...Talk
about a useless site. I would be MORE THAN HAPPY to donate my time and
web server to host and develop/maintain it for them!!! 

I hope that someone from the club reads this post


Regards,

Bob

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4878
*********************************
