
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, April 15 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4856



RE: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
Re: Holley Power Valves
"68 Horn
Re: waxes.... was Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
RE: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
Re: Holley Power Valves
65 Cutlass swap2
recirculate your balls? 
Re:trunk mount battery install
67 442's on not-Supremes; I guess I missed digest #4854
70-72 Cutlass help
Looking for 66 4-barrel air cleaner base
Re: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
67 442's on not-Supremes
Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
Re: "68 Horn
Re: Holley Power Valves
Re: 68 400 stock rings
RE: "68 Horn
RE: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
Re: 68 400 stock rings
Re: Anyone done a water pump on a '96 Silhouette/Lumina/Trans Sport minivan?
Re: Holley Power Valves
Re: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers
Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
Re: Holley Power Valves

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 17:28:25 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?

FWIW, The Standard Catalog Of Oldsmobile says (on page 101 for 1967) "The
Supreme was the only series in which the popular 442 and the high-mileage
Turnpike Cruising package option could be ordered."

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space Systems,
Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 1:25 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?

Chris is right. How does a bare-bones '67 442 2-door F-85 sedan with no
other options and that rubber floor covering instead of carpets and with
radio and heater deletes sound? Sorry, that's bull saying that all '67 442s
were built from Cutlass Supremes.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 18:00:36 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

swanny wrote:

> Bob,
> I got my '74 350 cutlass up from RI monday. I went down Saturday to start it
> so it could be towed to NH. Ran fine Saturday, got the car delivered Monday.
> Started it up to move it 10 Ft. in my drive way. It farted through the carb
> (Holley 750 cfm DD manual choke) I replaced the cap, rotor,  plugs and coil.
> It still won't start. Enough to start a small fire though. It didn't back
> fire, just sputtered through the throat of the carb.
> Could it be a messed up power valve? Any help is appreciated.
> Thanks
> Pat Swanton.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <robert.demuth@prudential.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 10:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves
> 
> 
> 
>>Hey John,
>>
>>If you mean this:
>>http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D125%2D500
>>
>>and this:
>>http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SPE%2D2408
>>
>>yes, they work.  I believe the 4150s they make now come with this feature
>>factory installed.
>>
>>Bob DeMuth.
>>'72 88 conv.
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anybody had success with any of the "power valve
>>protection" kits out there?
>>
>>I'd like to try running some Holleys on the street
>>again, if I could get the power valves to last!
>>
>>=====
>>John Pajak
>><<<<
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
Or the plastic timing gears gave out
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 18:34:14 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: "68 Horn

Hey all....I am having a problem with my horn....ok...I know this is small
potato's compaired to alot of problems out there!!!

Anyway...I got a new horn relay and placed it on the car. The door buzzer
now works!! But the horn still doesnt....is this a different part??? Maybe
the horn isnt hooked up??? How can I tell??

I also replaced the washer pump....the motor was fine....but the pump didnt
work....but I dont know where the washer fluid comes out....I have the
pieces...the metal ones but dont know where they attach to the hood. I hope
this makes since...sorry.....I dont know the proper name for the pieces.
Does anyone know where they attach to the hood or where I could get a
picture of where they go??

Thanks

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 18:35:04 -0400
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: waxes.... was Re: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

I got a Zaino kit from my wife for Christmas a couple years ago and can
attest to its shine and protection.  You actually use a kind of primer (wipe
on and then polish over it without removing it) first.  Not cheap, but good,
if you don't mind essentially waxing twice...

Scott
71 442 Conv
75 88 Royale Conv.

>
> I've also heard AMAZING stories about a product named ziano
> http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
>
> I think I'll give this a shot after I run out of my current supply.
>
> JB Schuren
> 71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
> 03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
> http://foggy.audioguy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 20:22:59 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?

Milton, wih all due respect, you're off the mark here.  Chris was saying
that he told the seller that it *should* be a Cutlass Supreme if it truely
has the 442 option.  And that is correct.  '67 442s were only available on
the Cutlass Supreme.

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space
> Systems, Inc.
> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 12:25 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
>
>
> Chris is right. How does a bare-bones '67 442 2-door F-85 sedan with no
> other options and that rubber floor covering instead of carpets and with
> radio and heater deletes sound? Sorry, that's bull saying that
> all '67 442s
> were built from Cutlass Supremes.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Barry" <rbarry@providence.edu>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 9:15 AM
> Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?
>
>
> > At 10:55 AM 4/13/2004, you wrote:
> > >You're not doing well with this 67 Cutlass info here.
> > >ALL 67 442's were built from Cutlass Supremes.
> > >==============
> > >Please cite your references
> > >My experience and sources tell me that the 442 option was available on
> all
> > >the A-bodies from the F85 to the Supreme, with differing costs for each
> > >model that was to be upgraded.
> > >   Corrections ALWAYS appreciated, but "facts" must be backed up with
> some
> > > references.  If you are, say, the National Senior OCA Judge, I will
> > > re-assess my information.
> > [snip]
> > >I fwd'd this to the experts on the email list to hash thru as well.
> > >
> > >What say ye, listmemebers? Surely ONE of you has or has seen
> the elusive
> > >1967 442 which was NOT based on the Cutlass Supreme, and is not
> home-made?
> > >
> > >Or, If I am incorrect, by all means set me straight [and cite your
> sources].
> > >-----------------------
> > >Chris Witt
> > >1303 W. Miller Rd.
> > >Lansing MI 48911
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > It's hard to tell what you're saying and what the other guy is saying in
> > the above exchange.
> >
> > I had always heard that for 1967 (and 1967 alone) the 442
> option was only
> > available on the Supreme model, not on the lower-line models. I thought
> > this was on the order forms.
> >
> > Of course, even if this was factory policy, it's not to say
> that NO 442's
> > were built on other models that year, or that the policy of limiting the
> > 442 option to the CS model held firm throughout the entire model year.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________
> > Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
> > http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 21:34:06 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

Milton,
I thought about someone messing with the firing order, and I double checked
the order to make sure that wasn't the problem. I also thought that since
the Accel coil ran fine Saturday and started up twice before I left  for
home that
day, if the distributor cap would have burned a hole through the carbon
brush that power had to be going through the modulator and power was going
back and forth, grounding out possibly in the coil wire grounds. So if I am
thinking correctly, all the power was being forced to go back and forth
between all the contacts in the distributor and not being supplied to the
plug wires and to the plugs themselves. I will bring it up to #1 TDC and see
where the rotor is facing and if that is on #1 I will replace the modulater
and condenser. I put in new timing gears (crane double roller) 13 years ago.
The engines internals are only about 30k miles on it.  They are not the
plastic formed gears. Thanks for the helpful hints and I will let you know
what I come up with tommorrow  :-)
Cheers to all.
Pat Swanton
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves


> Pat,
>
> > Could it be a messed up power valve?
>
>
> A blown power valve won't prevent the engine from starting and running.
> It'll just be rich.
>
> You said it ran fine Saturday, someone picked up the car and delivered it
to
> you on Monday, and now it won't run. Is that correct?
>
> Could the condenser, either on a points distributor or on a HEI
distributor,
> have failed and is shorting the ignition to ground? Is there any signs of
> tampering with the engine? Could someone have played a trick and changed
the
> firing order on the plug wires by rearranging them? Don't laugh at that
one.
> There's a reason some of my hoods are locked.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 19:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: JEFFREY LISLE <jeffslisle@yahoo.com>
Subject: 65 Cutlass swap2

- --0-1302139108-1081994927=:56453
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I am in the USAF in Japan with my '65 Cutlass that has an original 330 wich has seen better days and could really use a re-build, but unfortunately there isnt any where I can get it rebuilt without paying lots of $$ or YEN.  So I came across a fellow USAF member who is selling his complete '72 Chevelle with a 350 and TH350 w/ positrack and disc brakes and I want to buy it and swap everything over.  I think I can do it because they are both A bodies but I want to be sure before I buy his car.   His car has a crate engine and rebuilt tranny but the body and interior are shot so the price is pretty reasonable.  I will keep all my drivetrain etc.. so when I get back to the states I can swap back.  I know putting a Chevy in an Oldsmobile isnt too popular but it will be temporary...3 years or so.  Any hints or advice in this swap will be greatly appreaciated.  Thanks Jeff Lisle

		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
- --0-1302139108-1081994927=:56453
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>I am in the USAF in Japan with my '65 Cutlass that has an&nbsp;original 330 wich has seen better days and could really use a re-build, but unfortunately there isnt any where I can get it rebuilt without paying lots of $$ or YEN.&nbsp; So I came across a fellow USAF member who is selling his complete '72 Chevelle with a 350 and TH350 w/ positrack and disc brakes and I want to buy it and&nbsp;swap everything over.&nbsp; I think I can do it because they are both A bodies but I want to be sure before I buy his car.&nbsp; &nbsp;His car has a crate engine and rebuilt tranny but the body and interior are shot so the price is pretty reasonable.&nbsp; I will keep all my drivetrain etc.. so when I get back to the states I can swap back.&nbsp; I know putting a Chevy in an Oldsmobile isnt too popular but it will be temporary...3 years or so.&nbsp; Any hints or advice in this swap will be greatly appreaciated.&nbsp; Thanks Jeff Lisle</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Yahoo! Tax Center - <a href="http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html">File online by April 15th</a>
- --0-1302139108-1081994927=:56453--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:49:27 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: recirculate your balls? 

John Kelsey suggested I find someone to rebuild my gear box, and that it can 
be
a bear, I will do just that. I would of snipped your response in John, but 
it
appears me mouse has partial paralysis set in. Does not want to copy,
paste,undo, actualy anything to do with the right click. The recirculating 
balls
is the part that was making me a little nervous. thanks for sharing your
experience.

Bill G
===============
Your box is leaking
you need to re-seal it
Why get into the recirculating balls?
Just replace the leaky seal.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and 
safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 22:12:20 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re:trunk mount battery install

Hi all,
I tried sending this yesterday, never showed up, sorry if it repeats

From: 73H/O OLDSRIP
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Sent: Tuesday, April Re:trunk mount battery install

13, 2004 11:50 AM
Subject: Re:
Hi all.



Thanks to everyone for the feed back. I like the idea of being able to fuse
the starter feed wire.
I remember this guy from his headlight modification. I will talk to him
later today.
Jeff C. mentioned convoluted tubing. I was in Home Depot for supplies for a
home wiring job and seen a new product that would work great for this.
It is a 8' long piece of hard flexable plastic conduit. It comes in
different sizes and cuts easy. I used it in a home job & it worked great.
If I run a hot wire under the car or in frame I will use that.

Steve, thanks for the tip on the battery placement, wouldn't thought of
that.

Thanks,

Joe Walters
73 H/O
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
  To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
  Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 12:23 PM
  Subject: Re:trunk mount battery install


  In a message dated 4/11/04 3:37:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jtmwalt@netsync.net
  writes:


    What is the best way to wire a trunk mount battery? Is there are a
benefit
    if you wire in a Ford style relay intead of going right to the starter
with
    the main power cable. This is for a bb Olds of course.


  Joe,
        I would suggest contacting Mark at Mad Electrical.
http://www.madelectrical.com/    He is an automotive electrical guru and has
authored hundreds of articles in Hot Rod, Car Craft and other automotive
magazines over the years.  He is a great guy to talk to and can help you
with any problems you may encounter along the way.  I have installed several
electrical upgrades from his company in both of my Oldsmobiles, one of which
being the trunk mounted battery and remote solenoid.  I also installed a
Flaming River cutoff switch to comply with NHRA regulations.  Mark guided me
through the installation and offered helpful suggestions to allow me to get
it right.  He is an old school kind of person and he really takes time to
help you out.  Good luck with the project and don't forget to put the
battery in the trunk sideways and not longways so you keep the inner plates
from wanting to slap together on hard launches.  Don't ask me how I know
that,
  Steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:46:23 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 67 442's on not-Supremes; I guess I missed digest #4854

And the Turnpike Cruiser option was only available on the CS Holiday Coupe.
John Nasta
- - -----Original Message-----

<snip>
And whoever made the original statement about the 4-4-2 Performance Package
only being available on the Supremes was right on the money.
==================
Would youse guys mind citing your sources, please, 'cause, otherwise, it's 
all guesswork, conjecture,  and bullshirt. Now I gotta go ck my sources and 
CITE THEM....

Miltion says he saw a F85 based 442.
I know I have seen less-than-Supreme 67 442's. Not home-made, either.

I need digest 4854 I guess, never got it?
Anyone?
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Multiple plans available. 
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 01:09:11 EDT
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
Subject: 70-72 Cutlass help

- --part1_fb.545b5ee4.2daf72f7_boundary
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone have a 70-72 Cutlass handy?  Seriously, I'm installing power 
windows and I have some assembly manual copies but thought I'd ask first hand.  I 
have to drill a hole in the door and front of the shell for the rubber hose 
that holds the wires for the power windows.  Anyone know the size of the hole 
and could they give me any measurements from the bottom, top or is it centered 
left to right?  I don't see any dimples in the sheet metal and really don't 
want to drill in the wrong place.  Replies to roncutlass@aol.com would be 
appreciated. Thamka a lot.    Ron

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Does anyone have a 70-72 Cutlass ha=
ndy?&nbsp; Seriously, I'm installing power windows and I have some assembly=20=
manual copies but thought I'd ask first hand.&nbsp; I have to drill a hole i=
n the door and front of the shell for the rubber hose that holds the wires f=
or the power windows.&nbsp; Anyone know the size of the hole and could they=20=
give me any measurements from the bottom, top or is it centered left to righ=
t?&nbsp; I don't see any dimples in the sheet metal and really don't want to=
 drill in the wrong place.&nbsp; Replies to roncutlass@aol.com would be appr=
eciated. Thamka a lot.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ron</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_fb.545b5ee4.2daf72f7_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 22:11:17 -0700
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Looking for 66 4-barrel air cleaner base

Looking for a 66 Olds Cutlass/442 air cleaner base for a 4-barrel car. I
guess my dad, back in the day, needed to use a 66 air cleaner base so it
would fit a Holley carb. Apparently the 65 base is to small but the 66 base
works (?) I need a replacement. Condition doesn't matter so long as it's
functional.

Please e-mail me at albert@albertpenello.com

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:18:30 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers

Then how did an individual in 1967 buy something else? That something else
was a bare-bones 442 in a 2-door F-85, which was rolled off the car
transporter from whatever GM plant or railroad yard. The lightest body, with
no options and deletes, and power to sell.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <62oldsfan@comcast.net>
To: "Oldsmobile Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers


> OK gang, have had a chance to get home and look at my '67 specs book.
>
> While the '67 F-85 V-8s and standard Cutlasses did come standard with the
2bbl, 250hp Jetfire Rocket V8, the 310hp 4bbl reg. compression and 320hp
4bbl high compression engines were both optional at $33.70.
>
> All Cutlass Supremes/4-4-2s were 4bbl equipped except if the optional
Turnpike Cruiser Package was specified - in which case it had 2bbl.
>
> So that blows a hole in the 2bbl/dual light vs. 4bbl/quad light theory on
both models.
>
> And whoever made the original statement about the 4-4-2 Performance
Package only being available on the Supremes was right on the money.
>
> Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 07:00:56 -0400
From: "The General" <patton442@verizon.net>
Subject: 67 442's on not-Supremes

Chris and list,

        From the 67' dealer brochure - the 67' 442 was available
on of three ways - Sports Coupe, Holiday Coupe, and Convertible ....
All three shown have the Supreme wide body molding .............
The f-85 was only available in a Town Sedan and Club Coupe
so the 442 package was NOT available on a 67'  f-85 .............
As stated, the 442 package was available on the Sports Coupe. The first time
that I saw one with the non-supreme interior, I thought it was a fake untill
I
did some research. I helped judge the 67s at the North Jersey Nationals a
few years back. I was asked to check the VINs the night before and make
certian
they all said 33867, 33817, or 33807. If it is good enough for the OCA
......
Lets put this to rest, guys ...........


The General       patton442@verizon.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 05:54:22 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

My buddy just got one of those. We tried it out on his RX-7, and it did 
a very nice job - you could tell where he missed when it dried. It was 
weird not seeing the water bead up...
I believe I'll get one myself.

krw
On Apr 14, 2004, at 4:26 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 20:33:35 -0400
> From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
> Subject: Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash
>
> Has anybody tried Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash? Sounds like a good idea 
> given
> that it's the wiping (especially dry-wiping) that causes those "spider 
> web"
> scratches in clear coat. I assume it needs to be followed by paint 
> cleaner,
> wax, etc. When I had my black Saab (a.k.a. Black Saabath), I sued to 
> use all
> the Meguiars stuff and always thought that it worked great Neither of 
> my old
> cars have ever had a paint job worth worrying too much about, but I am 
> going
> to want to give my new car its firs wash/wax pretty soon.
>
> John Nasta
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:02:51 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: "68 Horn

  take a test light and check for power at horn connector near core support . or this way works as
well
  useing a jumper wire  hooked to battery positive term  touch it to horn's  one at a time  if horn
does not work check  for good clean ground where it bolts to rad support.  if the horn does work
that way the next step is to find the wire that leads from horn contact plate in turnsignal switch
harnes, usually black in color groung that wire at relay if horn works then the problem lies within
horn  button to relay.
  the washer squirters or nozzles  mount on the cowl i think its been many years since i owned a
1968 olds  also the pump is incorperated in the wiper motor if memory is correct they are a real
pain to get primed i usealyy fill the hose with fluid actuate pump then once it starts to spit
washer fluid out i reconnect to resivor
  ron
  ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>; <Cutlass442Owners@yahoogroups.com>;
"442" <442@yahoogroups.com>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 6:34 PM
  Subject: "68 Horn


  > Hey all....I am having a problem with my horn....ok...I know this is small
  > potato's compaired to alot of problems out there!!!
  >
  > Anyway...I got a new horn relay and placed it on the car. The door buzzer
  > now works!! But the horn still doesnt....is this a different part??? Maybe
  > the horn isnt hooked up??? How can I tell??
  >
  > I also replaced the washer pump....the motor was fine....but the pump didnt
  > work....but I dont know where the washer fluid comes out....I have the
  > pieces...the metal ones but dont know where they attach to the hood. I hope
  > this makes since...sorry.....I dont know the proper name for the pieces.
  > Does anyone know where they attach to the hood or where I could get a
  > picture of where they go??
  >
  > Thanks
  >
  > Tami
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:08:39 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

  if its flooding from stuck floats or no spark  you should smell gas.
  also check to see if choke is stuck shut or open.
  ron 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 5:26 PM
  Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves


  > Pat,
  > 
  > > Could it be a messed up power valve?
  > 
  > 
  > A blown power valve won't prevent the engine from starting and running.
  > It'll just be rich.
  > 
  > You said it ran fine Saturday, someone picked up the car and delivered it to
  > you on Monday, and now it won't run. Is that correct?
  > 
  > Could the condenser, either on a points distributor or on a HEI distributor,
  > have failed and is shorting the ignition to ground? Is there any signs of
  > tampering with the engine? Could someone have played a trick and changed the
  > firing order on the plug wires by rearranging them? Don't laugh at that one.
  > There's a reason some of my hoods are locked.
  > 
  > Milton Schick
  > 1964 442 Cutlass
  > imp@theriver.com
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:17:50 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings

  try a oldsmobile  engine builder such as mondello,dave smith engineering, dick miller raceing  m&j
performance  he is in ohio.
  summitt,  jeggs
  you may actually have to buy  rings that require some fileing to give you proper clearence
  ron

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
  To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 10:14 AM
  Subject: 68 400 stock rings


  > Good morning folks,
  >
  > I am having trouble finding the stock rings for a 68 400 with no
  > overbore/stock bores.  Advanced Auto seems to be providing rings that are
  > too large, may be 30 over rings.  Any suggestions on where I can order the
  > correct stock rings?
  >
  > Thanks!
  > Rob
  >
  >
  >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 09:20:47 -0400
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: RE: "68 Horn

Hi Tami,

If 68's are the same as 69's, then I'm pretty certain the horn relay/door
buzzer is the only real link in the chain after the button.  The wiring for
the horn should run along your front harness, behind the grille (in front of
the radiator) to either a single or double horn. Are you sure the horn(s)
worked in the first place?  You can test the horn by supplying juice
straight from the battery, just make certain not to scare yourself (yes,
I've done this many times! :) However, you must have a good ground!!  It's a
single power wire to the horn while the horn bracket does all the grounding,
so if it isn't making good contact with the frame, horn no worky.  Also, and
I should have mentioned this earlier, it make it easier to work here if you
remove the radiator top plate.  If the horn does work, then it's either your
wiring between it and the relay, relay and horn button, or, well, the button
itself but I'd verify that the horn does indeed work first.

May I ask where you got a replacement horn relay/door buzzer??  I've been
looking for sometime and can't seem to locate one.  Year One had them, then
discontinued them to the best of my knowledge.  This is a major component
since it can effectively kill power to the whole car!

As for the washer nozzles, they should attach to the underside of the hood
lip (nearest the cowl) via two clips.  The rubber hoses then run down to the
pump itself.

Hope that helps a bit.

~  Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 09:53:13 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers

Who is this individual? Where is this car?


- -----Original Message-----

Then how did an individual in 1967 buy something else? That something else
was a bare-bones 442 in a 2-door F-85, which was rolled off the car
transporter from whatever GM plant or railroad yard. The lightest body, with
no options and deletes, and power to sell.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 07:55:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 68 400 stock rings

Try these Olds specialists also:

http://members.aol.com/gregsperformance/

http://fcrperformance.com/

Personally I would steer clear from Mondello, since
his son-in-law has taken over the business and things
have gone downhill.



=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 15:30:30 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone done a water pump on a '96 Silhouette/Lumina/Trans Sport minivan?

>it's not a a bad one to do remove belt guard then belt remove pulley
>and the retaining bolts notice its position since the new one will only
>line up in the correctly clocked position

Mission accomplished! Had only one Warner Brothers-type moment, like when 
Wile E. Coyote runs through a batch of Acme quick-drying cement and freezes 
in mid-stride...? See below...

Disassembly went okay and nothing was seized up, except for a brief period 
of hammering on the pulley before it would let go of the pump pulley hub. 
Was able to get away with only a partial drain of the cooling system by 
removing the heater hose at the pump connections and draining it into a 
bucket, after which a bit more gooshed out when the pump came off, but not a 
horrendous amount, all recovered and replaced later.

Per Ron's instructions, I made sure to mark the position of the old pump 
before removing it. I found afterwards when looking at it on the workbench 
that there's a little triangular arrow cast into it to mark the top, 
12-o'clock position, and the aftermarket replacement (GMB brand in 
PartsMaster box) had the same arrow, which made things a little easier.

Things got interesting with the gasket. Long period of careful scraping was 
required to get the old gasket off, and it's real easy to scrape a nice 
smooth finish _on_ the old gasket remnants, rather than scrape a nice smooth 
finish by _removing_ the old gasket remnants. Running a finger over it is 
not the answer; a smooth finish is not necessarily a level one. You have to 
really squint at it with a good shop light to see the black areas where the 
gasket leftovers remain.

So then I made sure that I knew how to align the new gasket before gooping 
it up with KW Copper Coat (great stuff). Gooped it carefully on both sides, 
did the new pump as well, did the sealing surface on the block, then looked 
back at the gasket, and couldn't remember which side was facing up. Aaargh. 
Tense couple of minutes followed as Yrs Truly frantically tried every 
orientation of gasket on pump, trying to get all holes lined up on the 
otherwise-perfectly-circular gasket, as the Copper Coat relentlessly set 
itself up, getting stickier and stickier by the second...

Got it at last! The audience applauds...

Everything buttoned up nicely after that, no bolts were dropped into 
important places, and I was able to hit the car wash @10:30 p.m. for a 
long-overdue engine cleaning, so everything's nice and shiny once again, 
with no leaks anywhere. Thanks to everyone on- and off-line for their help.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information 
and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:11:20 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

Ron,
It could be the carb too. I'm getting a rebuild kit for it today too.
It's a manual choke and I had to disconnect the choke pulloff in order to
start it Saturday. Is it possible that the last time I ran it Sat. that the
engine and carb being warm then, and now that it was cold on the next start
that power valve deteriated?
Thanks.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves


>   if its flooding from stuck floats or no spark  you should smell gas.
>   also check to see if choke is stuck shut or open.
>   ron
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>   Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 5:26 PM
>   Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves
>
>
>   > Pat,
>   >
>   > > Could it be a messed up power valve?
>   >
>   >
>   > A blown power valve won't prevent the engine from starting and
running.
>   > It'll just be rich.
>   >
>   > You said it ran fine Saturday, someone picked up the car and delivered
it to
>   > you on Monday, and now it won't run. Is that correct?
>   >
>   > Could the condenser, either on a points distributor or on a HEI
distributor,
>   > have failed and is shorting the ignition to ground? Is there any signs
of
>   > tampering with the engine? Could someone have played a trick and
changed the
>   > firing order on the plug wires by rearranging them? Don't laugh at
that one.
>   > There's a reason some of my hoods are locked.
>   >
>   > Milton Schick
>   > 1964 442 Cutlass
>   > imp@theriver.com
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:31:58 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '67s - 2 & 4bbl F-85s and fancy bumpers

> Then how did an individual in 1967 buy something else? That something else
> was a bare-bones 442 in a 2-door F-85, which was rolled off the car
> transporter from whatever GM plant or railroad yard. The lightest body,
with
> no options and deletes, and power to sell.

- -----------------------

A friend used to have a very bare bones triple black '67 442.  It was,
however, based on the supreme trim level.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 16:55:11 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: 1967 442's: ALL based on the CSup, or not?

> Chris is right. How does a bare-bones '67 442 2-door F-85 sedan with no
> other options and that rubber floor covering instead of carpets and with
> radio and heater deletes sound? Sorry, that's bull saying that all '67 442s
> were built from Cutlass Supremes.

Well...

An F-85 Club Coupe and a Cutlass Supreme Sports Coupe are the same body (with a 
post).  F-85s and Cutlass Supremes came through as standard without a radio, or
a clock for that matter.  Option C48 was the HVAC delete option carrying a
credit of $71.50.  Options B34 and B36 were Heavy-Duty Front (and rear, 
respectively) rubber floor coverings optional on Supreme Sports Coupes equipped
with the A52 (non-armrest) bench seat (a $68.46 credit option in place of the
standard buckets).  Dog dish hub caps would also have been standard issue.

So it appears one could really cheapen-up (down?) a 4-4-2 if all they were 
concerned with was speed.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 19:01:44 +0000
From: 77w30442@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves

the power valves mostly go bad after it has spit back threw carb. personally i hate holley carbs, any company that has a book called how to fix holley goof ups says alot.  i prefer my edelbrock's but if a stock 4bble is done correctly and i mean set up according to youre engines personal demands you just cant beet it.
for the guys running holley they work well and i know you swear by them but holley does allow alot of tuneing  for application's. problem is most guys have no clue what pump cams,springs ect to fine tune it with. which creats a bigger problem. unfortunitly i can not use the inspection dyno any more to set the cars up. a 1969 426 charger broke it. the warrenty covered it thank god because it was a 2500.00 part the car broke. 
any way while rebuilding it you may want to play with the jets and ect to get more out of it. 
ron        
> Ron,
> It could be the carb too. I'm getting a rebuild kit for it today too.
> It's a manual choke and I had to disconnect the choke pulloff in order to
> start it Saturday. Is it possible that the last time I ran it Sat. that the
> engine and carb being warm then, and now that it was cold on the next start
> that power valve deteriated?
> Thanks.
> Pat Swanton.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 8:08 AM
> Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves
> 
> 
> >   if its flooding from stuck floats or no spark  you should smell gas.
> >   also check to see if choke is stuck shut or open.
> >   ron
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> >   To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >   Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 5:26 PM
> >   Subject: Re: Holley Power Valves
> >
> >
> >   > Pat,
> >   >
> >   > > Could it be a messed up power valve?
> >   >
> >   >

> >   > A blown power valve won't prevent the engine from starting and
> running.
> >   > It'll just be rich.
> >   >
> >   > You said it ran fine Saturday, someone picked up the car and delivered
> it to
> >   > you on Monday, and now it won't run. Is that correct?
> >   >
> >   > Could the condenser, either on a points distributor or on a HEI
> distributor,
> >   > have failed and is shorting the ignition to ground? Is there any signs
> of
> >   > tampering with the engine? Could someone have played a trick and
> changed the
> >   > firing order on the plug wires by rearranging them? Don't laugh at
> that one.
> >   > There's a reason some of my hoods are locked.
> >   >
> >   > Milton Schick
> >   > 1964 442 Cutlass
> >   > imp@theriver.com
> >   >
> >   >
> >   >
> >   >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4856
*********************************
