
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, June 9 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4914



disc brake master cylinders
RE: 76 Toronado For Sale
87 442
Convertible top dash bezel
Converting column over to floor shift
Hot Rod Power Tour, STL
RE: disc brake master cylinders
RE: Hot Rod Power Tour, STL
SB Nodular cranks ID - this just in...
Re: Intrigue Headlights

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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 13:25:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: disc brake master cylinders

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Whelp, I had to do a quickie front brake repair to the 70 F-85 last night.  Glad I made it home from work though.  I knew I was on borrowed time with the front brakes, but was hoping it could wait a week.  Well, she had a mind of her own.  I'm planning on swapping the current manual front drums to manual discs using a power disc brake setup from a 71 LeMans parts car I have.  My question, which I haven't had time to research myself, but figured I'd ask here is, is there a difference between a manual and power disc brake master cylinder?  I'm debating on rebuilding the current power disc brake master cylinder and putting it on my F-85 but keeping the manual brakes just discs.  I'm pretty sure there isn't but I need to double check.
 
Thanks,
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
 

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<DIV>Whelp, I had to do a quickie front brake repair to the 70 F-85 last night.&nbsp; Glad I made it home from work though.&nbsp; I knew I was on borrowed time with the front brakes, but was hoping it could wait a week.&nbsp; Well, she had a mind of her own.&nbsp; I'm planning on swapping the current manual front drums to manual discs using a power disc brake setup from a 71 LeMans parts car I have.&nbsp; My question, which I haven't had time to research myself, but figured I'd ask here is, is there a difference between a manual and power disc brake master cylinder?&nbsp; I'm debating on rebuilding the current power disc brake master cylinder and putting it on my F-85 but keeping the manual brakes just discs.&nbsp; I'm pretty sure there isn't but I need to double check.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>__________________________________________________<br>Do You Yahoo!?<br>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around <br>http://mail.yahoo.com 
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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 14:42:25 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: 76 Toronado For Sale

> Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 13:25:16 -0700
> From: Michael & Joanne Dekkers <dekkers@shaw.ca>
> Subject: 76 Toronado For Sale
> 
> Original 455 motor and turbo 400 tranny.

One of those ultra-rare RWD Toros, eh?

Kenneth 
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 17:54:42 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: 87 442

I found a '87 442 black with grey interior,sun roof. in good shape for sale
for
8 g's....guy said only a few were made black that yr....is this true?

If anyone is interested I can get a #...and maybe pics by the weekend....Its
located in Michigan...Lansing...

Thanks

Tami

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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 20:57:31 -0400
From: "Bob Abrams" <rabrams@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Convertible top dash bezel

It's for a 1972 Cutlass Supreme

am  looking for an original style convertible top switch bezel.  I  tried
Year One's which was a thin piece of flat stock, very different from  the
original which has a raised edge around the bezel.  Anyone either  have one
that they would be willing to sell or know where I can get  one?

Thanks,




What year an model car??

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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:58:15 -0500
From: "71 ragtop" <oldscutlass@cox.net>
Subject: Converting column over to floor shift

I have completed converting to a floor shift. I got everything completed
except for the pin that attaches the shifter cable to the trans lever. I do
not have this pin.
Is this pin available new from GM/others or do I have to find a used one or
make something myself.
Tim
'71 cutlass conv.
http://geocities.com/twagor/

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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:59:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Crumley <crumleym_50@yahoo.com>
Subject: Hot Rod Power Tour, STL

Hello All,
Pretty good Olds spectating lately.
First up I went to just S of Bloomington, IL this
weekend to pick up a crank for my 455 and hear Chris
Smetana's W31 run on the stand.  It sounds incredible.
 I was impressed with the crisp response it had.  Also
Jim Lapikas seems to know his stuff.  He showed us a
pair of 5 heads that is going on a 403 that he his
building.  We talked airflow and small and big block
Olds' till 2am.

Tonight my wife, 1yr old daughter and I went to power
tour.  Tons of cars and nice people.  Saw a 79 Ch*vy
SWB truck blow the vacuum modulator off the trans at
WOT on the chassis dyno.  I swore when I heard it (10
feet away) that it was a connecting rod!

I saw a 71 442 with 15" steel wheels with poverty
caps!!!!!  He said he had a guy in Iowa find the steel
centers and then made the 15" wheel.  It looked
awesome.  If anyone knows who maybe able to do this
I'm greatly interested.

Matt
STL


	
		
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 09:00:42 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: disc brake master cylinders

Typically, there is a difference.  Not necessarily in the piston size or 
stroke, but a difference in the way the rod is located on the back side.  
Manual systems of that era tend to use a longer rod from the pedal and it 
rests in a fairly deep recess in the back of piston.  This keeps the rod 
from falling out.  A power master cylinder will have a shallow indent for 
the rod from the booster to contact.  When using a master cylinder from a 
power set up, you will need to address the rod retention, so it does not 
drop out of place.  This is a big safety issue.

I would suggest picking up the correct style master cylinder from NAPA or 
whoever and either a correct rod or lengthen the one you have to the correct 
length.  Some folks make a bracket with a hole to support the shorter rod 
when using a power style master cyl., but it gets real close under the dash 
and it may or may not work.

One other thing, you may need to relocate the rod to a higher hole on the 
brake pedal.  Not real sure about this on A bodies, but I know you need to 
on a G body.  I assume they are similar in this area.  The non power assist 
needs more leverage and the higher hole provides it.



Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 09:04:01 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Hot Rod Power Tour, STL

Matt, what was so special about the steel 15 inch wheels?  Were they 15 
inches wide???

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser





snip

>I saw a 71 442 with 15" steel wheels with poverty
>caps!!!!!  He said he had a guy in Iowa find the steel
>centers and then made the 15" wheel.  It looked
>awesome.  If anyone knows who maybe able to do this
>I'm greatly interested.

Snip

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:20:09 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: SB Nodular cranks ID - this just in...

Will wonders never cease?

Pretty sure for long time that the 350 cranks with L shaped notch on rear 
face OD are all Nodular. Handy way to spot the nodularosity w/o dismantling 
the engine.

Most cranks with the short C shaped notch are plain cast iron. Deep-C is 
later lightweight series crank.

Dismantled a 350 the other day, 2nd rustiest one I ever saw. Damned if it 
didn't donate a nice Nodular iron crank... with the C shaped notch in rear 
face OD.

So, to summarize 350 cranks outside of engine ID cues:

L-shaped notch = Nodular, for sure [Until the example appears to prove 
otherwise].
C-shaped notch: USUALLY plain cast, but MAY be Nodular.
Deep-C Notch: later [1977+?] series, always plain cast iron.

Film at 11:00
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 20:59:06 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Intrigue Headlights

>The headlight units themselves pop out of the car
>easily, but does anyone know how easy/hard it is to
>remove the lenses from the assemblies? It looks like
>they just snap on, but I dunno about sealants, gaskets,
>hidden tricks, etc. Any assistance appreciated.

If they're similar to those of Bonnevilles and the second-generation plastic 
minivans, it is true that there are spring clips around the perimeter, but 
AFAIK they were only used to hold everything together while the sealer sets 
up. In other words, they're glued together permanently; the spring clips are 
there mainly to ensure that everything stays in alignment throughout, and 
that the assemblies can be packed for shipping as soon as they're glued 
together.

- -- Andy

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4914
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