
oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 27 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4902



350 rebuild cost
Thinking about selling N98 wheels - want to get an opinion
RE: tranny nightmares=new 58prts car
'69 Olds Cutlass Rolling Chassis for Sale... (fwd)
Can you help with info? (fwd)
Re: 1970 f85
RE: 350 rebuild cost
RE: Thinking about selling N98 wheels - want to get an opinion
RE: 350 rebuild cost
Re: 350 rebuild cost
RE: Was 350 rebuild cost - now motor info
RE: 1970 f85 w31
Re: installing piston pins
Re: Keys locked in car (sorry, non-Olds)
seeking INTAKE BUYER for L-404521
Re: Keys locked in car (sorry, non-Olds)
CorvOlds on Ebay
'55 Hydramatic Tranny
350 rebuild cost
Re: installing piston pins
Re: '55 Hydramatic Tranny
LIST...
Re: Keys locked in car (sorry, non-Olds)
Headers
Re: LIST...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 17:21:27 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 350 rebuild cost

I would never rebuild an Olds because of a leaking seal.  It 
could end up worse than before, my storebought rebuilts all 
were.  Just change the seal.  Now if its burning oil, knocks, 
that's another story.

Bruce Roe

25 May 2004 "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com> writes:
> ballpark figure.... what should I pay for a stock like rebuild on my 
> olds rocket 350. The rear main seal is leaking badly and I figured 
> I might as well get her rebuilt.  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 21:41:27 -0700
From: "Albert Penello" <albert@albertpenello.com>
Subject: Thinking about selling N98 wheels - want to get an opinion

I'm going to sell the N98 Chrome wheels that were on my Dad's '65 442. I
have all 4 wheels + center caps, PLUS and original spare with the N98 wheel.

The wheels will need to be re-chromed but I would not call them horrible.
They were used on the car from 1965 to 1984 when the car was hit and set in
a barn. 

I was thinking about asking $750 for the set. Does this sound like too much?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 22:01:25 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: RE: tranny nightmares=new 58prts car

Looks like you have a ton of stuff to unload on ebay!!!   Maybe more than a 
ton!!!

Joe Varley

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 07:10:47 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '69 Olds Cutlass Rolling Chassis for Sale... (fwd)

Not on the list, respond to GSELLERS@allstate.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Sellers, Gary" <GSELLERS@allstate.com>
Subject: '69 Olds Cutlass Rolling Chassis for Sale...

	'69 Old Cutlass, in storage four years, car has no engine or
transmission, body metal in very good, in unrestored condition, some
surface rust, one rear fender with bondo, paint is strictly spray can
quality; I cannot confirm, but was told when I bought it that all part are
available to restore except engine and transmission; I bought car to
fix-up and use as a daily driver, lost interest and with no work done by
me; car interior good condition and filled with parts including front
fenders, bumpers, etc.; front windshield cracked, car is ready to load and
transport (hood requires special attention), stored in unheated garage;
car located in southern IL on a farm near both Effingham, IL and
Vincennes, IN; pictures available to interested party, will sell for
$1,900 or best reasonable offer, email me at gsellers@allstate.com. 

	I was hoping you could post this to your Olds list.


Gary Sellers
e-mail me @ gsellers@allstate.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 07:30:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Can you help with info? (fwd)

Not on the list, respond to jbtgemini61171@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Edward Davis <jbtgemini61171@hotmail.com>
Subject: Can you help with info?

Hi, Greg I was hoping you could help me out, I have a 1983 Hurst/Olds 15th 
anniversary edition and would like to know how much it is worth. The car is 
in excellent condition and I am planning on showing it this summer. Any info 
you could give me would be most helpful. If you like I can send you pics of 
the car when I hear back from you. Thank you very much for your time.   Olds 
owner and Fan,  Ed Davis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 05:51:34 -0500
From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 f85

YES
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Nasta <email@johnnasta.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 7:35 AM
Subject: RE: 1970 f85


> You seem to know a lot about this car. Have you seen it in person?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> If anybody wants to see a junk that should be sent to the liar liar
> group it is on ebay 1970 f85 w-31 #2480032984 all gauges do not work
> dash is cracked in 3 places door has a burn mark on both doors, rip in
> seat, scrape on glass, car has been under water some where it is
> a junk  oh and it comes with no spare or jack.
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 08:48:49 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: 350 rebuild cost

I have $1200 in mine, done three years ago.

'72 donor engine for block, rods & crank $100
'80-84 307 heads (for A-I-R)& A4 intake  $50
Comp Cams roller tip rockers 1441        $200
Machine shop - including master rebuild
kit (Comp 268, cast pistons, cloyes, head
work (3-way, valves, guides), block work,
piston pins, ring install, all the
Fel-Pro gaskets - essentially everything
hand picked.  (Also included 3-way job
on the '72 donor motor heads)            $850

I did assembly. It's a 8.4:1 motor (calculated). A 9:1 motor with the '72 head swap.


>ballpark figure.... what should I pay for a stock like rebuild on my olds
>rocket 350. The rear main seal is leaking badly and I figured I might as
>well get her rebuilt.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 07:56:43 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Thinking about selling N98 wheels - want to get an opinion

I might be interested in them.  Are they 14x6"?  No chance of clearing
smallish disc brakes?

Thanks
Eric

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Albert Penello
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 11:41 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Thinking about selling N98 wheels - want to get an opinion


I'm going to sell the N98 Chrome wheels that were on my Dad's '65 442. I
have all 4 wheels + center caps, PLUS and original spare with the N98 wheel.

The wheels will need to be re-chromed but I would not call them horrible.
They were used on the car from 1965 to 1984 when the car was hit and set in
a barn.

I was thinking about asking $750 for the set. Does this sound like too much?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 09:05:42 -0400
From: Mearl Francis <Mearl.Francis@TRACO.COM>
Subject: RE: 350 rebuild cost

Good morning... I have a 1979 350 Rocket in my 1986 Cutlass Supreme.. it has
work done to the motor, but I have never been inside to find out what has
been done.. I tried to get some info about the motor but, no one seems to be
able to tell me anything from the #'s I found on the block. 
Got any ideas that may help?
Thanks

- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric Holcombe [mailto:eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 8:49 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: 350 rebuild cost

I have $1200 in mine, done three years ago.

'72 donor engine for block, rods & crank $100
'80-84 307 heads (for A-I-R)& A4 intake  $50
Comp Cams roller tip rockers 1441        $200
Machine shop - including master rebuild
kit (Comp 268, cast pistons, cloyes, head
work (3-way, valves, guides), block work,
piston pins, ring install, all the
Fel-Pro gaskets - essentially everything
hand picked.  (Also included 3-way job
on the '72 donor motor heads)            $850

I did assembly. It's a 8.4:1 motor (calculated). A 9:1 motor with the '72
head swap.


>ballpark figure.... what should I pay for a stock like rebuild on my olds
>rocket 350. The rear main seal is leaking badly and I figured I might as
>well get her rebuilt.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 08:26:37 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 350 rebuild cost

Bruce,

What is involved with changing the rear seal on a olds. I know it's not a
big deal in a chevy, but I'm not sure about the olds....

Thanks
JB Schuren
71Cutlass Conv Rocket 350 w/HEI.
03 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi QC
http://foggy.audioguy.net

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <bcroe@juno.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 5:21 PM
Subject: 350 rebuild cost


> I would never rebuild an Olds because of a leaking seal.  It
> could end up worse than before, my storebought rebuilts all
> were.  Just change the seal.  Now if its burning oil, knocks,
> that's another story.
>
> Bruce Roe
>
> 25 May 2004 "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com> writes:
> > ballpark figure.... what should I pay for a stock like rebuild on my
> > olds rocket 350. The rear main seal is leaking badly and I figured
> > I might as well get her rebuilt.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 09:53:40 -0400
From: "Eric Holcombe" <eholcombe@engineeringservicesgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Was 350 rebuild cost - now motor info

The FAQ section on 442.com is excellent. Olds motors are relatively easy to identify by casting numbers to within a year or two (or four). You would be able to tell if you have a correct block/heads/intake for that era of 350 motor (77-80), but not if they came together originally. However, you may be able to tell if they don't match for a '79 350. For instance, my '86 442 has a '72 350 block, '80-84 307 A4 intake and 5A heads and the original '86 exhaust manifolds. Easily seen and obviously not original.

Your block (if a '79) should have a 3A or 3B on the end of the casting number on the horizontal surface behind the water pump. Your heads should have a 3A cast just to the left of the #1 (or #8) spark plug.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mearl Francis [mailto:Mearl.Francis@TRACO.COM]

Good morning... I have a 1979 350 Rocket in my 1986 Cutlass Supreme.. it has
work done to the motor, but I have never been inside to find out what has
been done.. I tried to get some info about the motor but, no one seems to be
able to tell me anything from the #'s I found on the block. 
Got any ideas that may help?
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 07:55:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 f85 w31

- --0-1657398954-1085583333=:71496
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii



You seem to know a lot about this car. Have you seen it in person?


- - -----Original Message-----

If anybody wants to see a junk that should be sent to the liar liar
group it is on ebay 1970 f85 w-31 #2480032984 all gauges do not work
dash is cracked in 3 places door has a burn mark on both doors, rip in
seat, scrape on glass, car has been under water some where it is
a junk  oh and it comes with no spare or jack.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
This looks exactly like the car (former?) list member Jack Bazur sold a little while ago.  The only difference is Jack bought the car from NM, while this one on ebay was in CA.  However, it IS possible this is the same car.  But Jack restored his VERY NICELY.  I almost bought that car before Jack did.  And Jack was asking quite a bit more than what this is going for.  Heck, even the buy it now price is less than what Jack offered his to me for.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

		
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<DIV><BR><BR>You seem to know a lot about this car. Have you seen it in person?<BR><BR><BR>- -----Original Message-----<BR><BR>If anybody wants to see a junk that should be sent to the liar liar<BR>group it is on ebay 1970 f85 w-31 #2480032984 all gauges do not work<BR>dash is cracked in 3 places door has a burn mark on both doors, rip in<BR>seat, scrape on glass, car has been under water some where it is<BR>a junk&nbsp; oh and it comes with no spare or jack.<BR>------------------------------------------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>This looks exactly like the car (former?) list member Jack Bazur sold a little while ago.&nbsp; The only difference is Jack bought the car from NM, while this one on ebay was in CA.&nbsp; However, it IS possible this is the same car.&nbsp; But Jack restored&nbsp;his VERY NICELY.&nbsp; I almost bought that car before Jack did.&nbsp; And Jack was asking quite a bit more than what this is going for.&nbsp; Heck, even the buy it now price is less than what Jack offered his to me for.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>Friends.  Fun. <a href="http://messenger.yahoo.com/">Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger</a>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 08:42:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: installing piston pins

- --0-200609210-1085586132=:36749
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Yes, any freezer would be enough. We had a kitchen refrigerator in the
machine shop. Some of our guys kept their lunch and drinks in the
refrigerator part. The freezer section made ice and froze piston pins 
and
cone roller bearing races for installation into front wheel hubs, trans
cases, and differentials. We kept the freezer at the lowest temperature 
it
would go, around 0 F.
- ---------------------------------------
hmm, and right next to the front suspension bushings too.  btw, let's not start that discussion again about when to torque down the lower control arms.  :-))

 

Another way would be to use liquid nitrogen (LN2) at -320 F. The part 
<snip>
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
yep, using liquid nitrogen is another way to freeze the pins I was told.




greater than maximum engine heat. My problem with the heat method is 
making
absolutely sure the metal is never heated to the point when carbon in 
the
alloy is drawn to the surface of the metal, slightly altering the 
internal
molecular structural matrix. 600 F is enough to cause minor carbon 
content
changes. The use of normal cold has no affect on the metal, but I 
<snip>
- ----------------------------------------------
lots of good information.  One thing I forgot to ask in my haste to get the last email out.  What is the Rockwell hardness rating of these, say, 68-72 350 Olds rods?  And what about trying to increase that number to make a stronger factory rod.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com

		
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<DIV>Yes, any freezer would be enough. We had a kitchen refrigerator in the<BR>machine shop. Some of our guys kept their lunch and drinks in the<BR>refrigerator part. The freezer section made ice and froze piston pins <BR>and<BR>cone roller bearing races for installation into front wheel hubs, trans<BR>cases, and differentials. We kept the freezer at the lowest temperature <BR>it<BR>would go, around 0 F.</DIV>
<DIV>---------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>hmm, and right next to the front suspension bushings too.&nbsp; btw, let's not start that discussion again about when to torque down the lower control arms.&nbsp; :-))<BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Another way would be to use liquid nitrogen (LN2) at -320 F. The part <BR>&lt;snip&gt;<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>yep, using liquid nitrogen is another way to freeze the pins I was told.</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR><BR><BR>greater than maximum engine heat. My problem with the heat method is <BR>making<BR>absolutely sure the metal is never heated to the point when carbon in <BR>the<BR>alloy is drawn to the surface of the metal, slightly altering the <BR>internal<BR>molecular structural matrix. 600 F is enough to cause minor carbon <BR>content<BR>changes. The use of normal cold has no affect on the metal, but I <BR>&lt;snip&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>----------------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>lots of good information.&nbsp; One thing I forgot to ask in my haste to get the last email out.&nbsp; What is the Rockwell hardness rating of these, say, 68-72 350 Olds rods?&nbsp; And what about trying to increase that number to make&nbsp;a stronger factory rod.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV>grp442@yahoo.com</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1><font face=arial size=-1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>Friends.  Fun. <a href="http://messenger.yahoo.com/">Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger</a>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 16:01:34 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Keys locked in car (sorry, non-Olds)

>>Kids locked keys in 1995 Buick.  I have a slim jim but
>>not the knack.  Any ideas?
>
>1995 is new enough that a GM dealer can punch a set of keys by the VIN if
>none of the lock cylinders have been changed.  If you can give a bit more
>info (model of the car) someone might be able to tell you the orientation 
>of
>the lock rod.  If you try the coat hanger route, it is sometimes easier to
>hit the power lock button than to try for the manual release.

I agree (and especially tell us what _model_ we're talking about here).

If it's still got the old-style pop-up buttons on the tops of the doors, 
your Slim-Jim motion is actually to try and press _down_ on the top of the 
door latch, where the lock rods converge inside the door. You're trying to 
snag a little lever on the top of the latch whose unlock motion is actually 
down, not up. You can also try to snag the lock plunger (i.e. the inside 
lock button) itself and pull it up, but that's harder to grab onto inside.

I actually opened my '82 Cutlass that way one day with a flat bar from a 
filing cabinet, pressing down on the latch until I found the right spot, and 
the button popped up. (I had locked my keys in the car and my Slim-Jim in 
the trunk. :-)

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 12:32:23 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: seeking INTAKE BUYER for L-404521

dang it
had an iquiry
got the pix now
cannot find the guy's contact info
Anyone here perchance?
Anyone here need the 1970 442 cast iron intake?
Looking for $100 delivered US 48 states.
Casting L-404521, good used core, needs cleaning.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 16:45:58 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Keys locked in car (sorry, non-Olds)

Actually I think I overstated things here:

>If it's still got the old-style pop-up buttons on the tops of the doors, 
>your Slim-Jim motion is actually to try and press _down_ on the top of the 
>door latch, where the lock rods converge inside the door. You're trying to 
>snag a little lever on the top of the latch whose unlock motion is actually 
>down, not up.

You should try this strategy regardless of whether the inside lock is a 
pop-up button or the newer design that uses a slide lock below the inside 
door handle.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 14:00:04 -0400
From: robert.demuth@prudential.com
Subject: CorvOlds on Ebay

This thing is cool ....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479616423&category=6167

('66 corvair with twin turbo Olds 350 power)

Anyone ever seen it in person?

Bob DeMuth.
'72 88 conv.
some other stuff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 17:34:20 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: '55 Hydramatic Tranny

Hello list-

You know, I've run into a lot of crackpots.  One guy telling me that Olds 
heads would bolt up to a Chevy block.  One guy said I had a 350 CID Big 
Block, several others saying they had them in thier cars.    I ran into a 
guy once who, while seeming to be knowledgeable about cars, told me about my 
'55 Super 88 with the automatic transmission that It was the best tranny 
ever built by GM and that it was actually a 4 speed.  I thought that he, 
too, was a crackpot.   As there is only 1, S, and D on the shifter, I 
believed it was a 3 speed and didn't give it any more thought.

Aparently I was wrong.  My beloved '55 is crying tears of neglect waiting 
for me to do *something* with it.   Is there anything I should know about 
this transmission before starting it up?  The car has sat for 8 years 
without being turned over and is in need of some serious work...

Thanks

On digest mode
Scott White
93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)

_________________________________________________________________
Learn to simplify your finances and your life in Streamline Your Life from 
MSN Money. http://special.msn.com/money/0405streamline.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 17:54:02 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 350 rebuild cost

JB Schuren

26 May 2004  "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com> writes:
> Bruce,
> 
> What is involved with changing the rear seal on a olds. I know 
> it's not a big deal in a chevy, but I'm not sure about the olds....
> 
> Thanks
> JB Schuren

I believe the service manual shows a procedure.  Basically take 
off the rear main, poke in a new seal, put main back.  Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 18:00:19 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: installing piston pins

> What is the Rockwell hardness rating of these, say, 68-72 350 Olds rods?


I don't know if that info is even available from Olds. The rods can be
easily checked to see how hard they are.


> And what about trying to increase that number to make a stronger factory
rod.


Without knowing the exact heat treatment method used by Olds and the exact
alloy content, it would be dangerous to try to make the rods harder. Instead
of becoming harder and stronger, they could become harder and more brittle.

A better way would be to have the rods cryo-stress relieved. That would
increase inherent rod strength.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 18:32:07 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: '55 Hydramatic Tranny

Scott,

For the stock trans, first and second gear are both contained in "1". You
can't separate them manually. However, B&M did.

There's nothing really to know. Make sure the trans is full of fluid, and
start her.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 3:34 PM
Subject: '55 Hydramatic Tranny


> Hello list-
>
> You know, I've run into a lot of crackpots.  One guy telling me that Olds
> heads would bolt up to a Chevy block.  One guy said I had a 350 CID Big
> Block, several others saying they had them in thier cars.    I ran into a
> guy once who, while seeming to be knowledgeable about cars, told me about
my
> '55 Super 88 with the automatic transmission that It was the best tranny
> ever built by GM and that it was actually a 4 speed.  I thought that he,
> too, was a crackpot.   As there is only 1, S, and D on the shifter, I
> believed it was a 3 speed and didn't give it any more thought.
>
> Aparently I was wrong.  My beloved '55 is crying tears of neglect waiting
> for me to do *something* with it.   Is there anything I should know about
> this transmission before starting it up?  The car has sat for 8 years
> without being turned over and is in need of some serious work...
>
> Thanks
>
> On digest mode
> Scott White
> 93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
> 86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
> 70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
> 55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Learn to simplify your finances and your life in Streamline Your Life from
> MSN Money. http://special.msn.com/money/0405streamline.armx
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 22:34:53 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: LIST...

I dont see my mails on this list..?
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 20:15:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Brooks <deaconblue1969@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Keys locked in car (sorry, non-Olds)

- --- "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Actually I think I overstated things here:

Thanks for the replies - Great ideas that I'll file
away for future senior-moments.

Thanks again,
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 20:46:37 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Headers

Reference only, Kooks now has SB headers for 64-65's

M


http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9384


Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 01:28:27 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: LIST...

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In a message dated 5/26/2004 10:38:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
travelchile@manquehue.net writes:
I dont see my mails on this list..?
I do


Vinny
68 H/O

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<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
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<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 5/26/2004 10:38:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, travelc=
hile@manquehue.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>I dont see my mails on this list..?</FONT></BL=
OCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>I do</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Vinny</DIV>
<DIV>68 H/O</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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