
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, August 15 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4989



RE: New pics look old in blk and white
Re: Woodward Dream Cruise - Olds hotspots
Part needed
Re: Part needed
Sound deadening stuff
Olds parts.
Re: Sound deadening stuff
FYA: THE INFORMATION YOU REQUIRED...........
oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
Re: so I got the non-Olds....
Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
Re: Sound deadening stuff
Seat Belts
RE: Sound deadening stuff
Re: Sound deadening stuff
Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
RE: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???
RE: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 15:46:15 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
Subject: RE: New pics look old in blk and white

>Hello
>Old cars look kewl in black and white.
>:)
> http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1093196058375_89600018.jpg 
>http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1094099812750_89600017.jpg 
> http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1091065882410_89600002.jpg
>Randy(Turning back time) H.
>Maple Ridge B.C. 
>
>__________________________________________________________________
>Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
>As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
>Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
>Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
>

__________________________________________________________________
Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register

Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 13:07:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Scott G." <boiler77_81@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Woodward Dream Cruise - Olds hotspots

- --0-1434139484-1092514076=:1750
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

The Motorcity Rockets club will be at the Wendy's at about 12 /12 mile on the east side of Woodward.

LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:Hey gang, 
It's been a while since I've posted... probably 5 years since I was lambasted for.... well, never mind.
 
Anyway, I've migrated to Michigan and brought my '69 Cutlass 'S' convertible, and now I wanna know ---
 
Where do the Olds guys (and cars) hang out along Woodward?
 
If you tell me, I'll meet you there!
 
Thanks!
Erik


		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
- --0-1434139484-1092514076=:1750
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>The Motorcity Rockets club will be at the Wendy's at about 12 /12 mile on the east side of Woodward.<BR><BR><B><I>LooseCanno@aol.com</I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=GENERATOR>
<DIV>Hey gang, </DIV>
<DIV>It's been a while since I've posted... probably 5 years since I was lambasted for.... well, never mind.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyway, I've migrated to Michigan and brought my '69 Cutlass 'S' convertible, and now I wanna know ---</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Where do the Olds guys (and cars) hang out along Woodward?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If you tell me, I'll meet you there!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks!</DIV>
<DIV>Erik</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/10/*http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail/static/efficiency.html">New and Improved Yahoo! Mail</a> - Send 10MB messages!
- --0-1434139484-1092514076=:1750--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 13:47:01 -0700
From: "Robert Sailor" <rsailor@verizon.net>
Subject: Part needed

Hey gang,
Looking for a part for my 1986 Delta 88. I need the drivers side window
switch panel that goes in the arm rest.
Anyone have a lead on one let me know off list.
Thanks,
Robert

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 17:40:43 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: Part needed

- -------------------------------1092519643
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

 
In a message dated 8/14/2004 4:54:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
rsailor@verizon.net writes:

part for  my 1986 Delta 88. 


2 DOOR OR 4 DOOR?

- -------------------------------1092519643
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
Arial"=20
bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Drol=
e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 8/14/2004 4:54:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
rsailor@verizon.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>part for=20
  my 1986 Delta 88. </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>2 DOOR OR 4 DOOR?</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1092519643--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 21:52:57 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Sound deadening stuff

Hello all-

Since this year I'm doing the interior, I am stuck with the decision of 
sound deadening panels.  Dynamat, I guess, is the foremost in this materiel 
and the stuff is quite pricey, about $.06 (six cents) a square inch 
($8.64/sq. foot, if someone cares). .  Is there any other alternative that, 
while not being so great, might not also be so hard on the pocketbook?    I 
found an aerosol can of something called Dead Skin made by Rockford-Fosgate 
for sound deadening, but it was $30.00 (!!!!) and it didn't say how much 
area it covered.

On digest mode
Scott "having four cars on life support really sucks" White
93 Cutlass Supreme S
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
70 Cutlass Supreme
55 Super 88

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 20:43:29 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Olds parts.

Hi all.

      I am a new member to the list. I own a 1976 Olds. 98 LS coupe. I am
looking for the pull strap covers that hide the strap bolts. Some have
called them biscuits, I am not sure exactly what the proper name for them
is. I need one, but will take all 4; mine are made of hard dimpled plastic.
I have named my car Mary Jane (yes I am a weird-O), and she would like to be
complete. If any one on the list knows where I might have luck in finding
these items, I would appreciate knowing about it . Thanks for any help.

Rick

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 21:40:04 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening stuff

> Since this year I'm doing the interior, I am stuck with the decision of
> sound deadening panels.  Dynamat, I guess, is the foremost in this
materiel
> and the stuff is quite pricey, about $.06 (six cents) a square inch >
($8.64/sq. foot, if someone cares). .  Is there any other alternative that,
> while not being so great, might not also be so hard on the pocketbook?
I
> found an aerosol can of something called Dead Skin made by
Rockford-Fosgate
> for sound deadening, but it was $30.00 (!!!!) and it didn't say how much
> area it covered.


I hate to sound like sour grapes, but if the Missile Defense Agency hadn't
used our SBIR Phase 2 Advanced Insulation Proposal for a simulated incoming
ballistic missile warhead target, there would be a spray applied flexible
ceramic insulation material commercially available that would have made just
about all conventional sound deadeners look like tissue paper, with
insulating properties from -350F to +350F to die for. For cost, it would
have competed dollar-for-dollar with standard home insulation fiberglass. We
just didn't fit into the "good-ole`-boy" network at DOD. Unfortunately, it
does take-money-to-make-money, unlike the idiot on the infomercial touting
his get-rich-quick real-estate investment scheme.

Don't take my word on it. Mark Mullins has seen the "stuff."

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 01:05:51 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FYA: THE INFORMATION YOU REQUIRED...........

OK, I should be able to get that check for $13,300 cashed on Monday.
Then I can work on getting your excess sent back.
I might have to send your excess back to him in the form of a cashier's 
check. I have one for $6500 and another for a similar amount.

Say, what parts exactly was I supposed to get ready for shipment?
I cannot recall... please refresh my memory, so I can start boxing up your 
items.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



>From: james cole <carlinkautos2004@yahoo.com>
>To: Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: THE INFORMATION YOU REQUIRED...........
>Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 14:08:55 -0700 (PDT)
>
>http://www.crimes-of-persuasion.com/Nigerian/names_C.htm
>
>
>Dear Witt,
>
>NAME        -  CHARLES. C. HARRIS
>ADDRESS  -  702 N Sam Houston Parkway East,
>Houston 77060, Texas USA.
>               I wait to hear from you as the agent is waiting to start 
>work.
>regards,
>JAMES
>
>
>
><rocketscience442@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >From: james cole
> >To: Christopher Witt
> >Subject: payment received / instructions to follow.
> >Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2004 09:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Dear Witt,
>==========
>That's "Mr. Witt" to you, sir. Only my closest friends call me "Witt" or
>"The Witt".
>
>
>
> >Compliments of the week. I am sorry for the short delay in your payment 
>and
> >break in communication. The problem was that my customer who's making 
>this
> >purchase, had a severe heart breakdown and had been in a coma. He was
> >moved out of town to a recomended specialist at the niegbouring city, 
>where
> >ho could get better treatment.
> >It was unfortunate on my side that his wife had to move along with him, 
>so
> >i was left with nobody to keep me updated on the purchase and this is the
> >reason why i have not been able to update you as regards this purchase.
> >His wife has only just returned yesterday to confirm that payment would 
>be
> >getting to you today the 11th of August.
>===========
>Real sorry to hear about your bad luck.
>
>
>
>
> >I have checked with the fedex report, and the report shows that the 
>package
> >has been delivered at your address. The package was received and signed 
>for
> >by A. WITT at 9.12am today. Mr Smith has given instructions for to make
> >payment of that balance money to the agent.
>============
>Indeed, a cashier's check for about $15,500 showed up here today via FedEx.
>Strangely enough, it came from Great Britain? What's up with that?
>
>
>
>
> >I WILL NEED YOU TO PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW, AS INSTRUCTED BY
> >MR SMITH.
>============
>Oh, yeah, "Mr. Smith"... [nudge, wink]
>I'll have "Mr. Jones" and "Mr. Green" get back to you on that.
>
>
>
>
> >Mr. Smith has instructed that you assist them send down the extra balance
> >of their money via MONEYGRAM INTERNATIONAL MONEY TRANSFER to their agent
> >who is presently in USA, as the agent will be needing this balance money 
>as
> >part of his payment to take charge of shipping the property they 
>purchased
> >from you along with all other goods that the customer is importing.
>=============
>No problem, I can cash the ck tomorrow and get the cash wired right off to
>you. Say, what exactly "parts" or "property" is it you are buying again? I
>have more than a few deals going, and cannot recall the details of our
>agreement! I must exactly know what to put in the boxes!!!
>
>
>
> >You are also required to provide the details, your "address / location" 
>of
> >where the purchased property is presently located at the moment, so that 
>as
> >soon as the agents receives the payment and the address / location from
> >you, they will be able to seal-up their contract on all the pick-up and
> >shipping arrangements. for their pick-up and shipping services to be
> >possible.
>===========
>No problem. Just pick up at:
>FOP
>5195 Jet Drive
>Lansing, MI 48911
>Phone: 517-483-4801
>
>
>
> >Below are the customer's Details that you would need to transfer the
> >payment to the agent via moneygram money transfer..
> >
> >NAME - CHARLES. C. HARRIS
> >ADDRESS - 702 N Sam Houston Parkway East,
> > Houston 77060, Texas USA.
>===================
>Hoo, boy, that's WEIRD, anywho.com has never heard of this guy?!?!?!?! They
>have no problem finding *me*...
>" Unable to return results...
>Reason: No listings were found.
>*We searched on charles HARRIS in TX 77060 however; we could not find any
>listings to display."
>
>
>
>
> >We have made enquiries today, from the Moneygram money transfer office 
>here
> >to enquire on how these payment could be quickly transfered to the agent,
> >and we have been informed that you would be required to pay some charges 
>as
> >cost of transfering the money to the agent. Our customer and the agent 
>have
> >agreed on these terms and have instructed that you go ahead and deduct 
>the
> >transfer charges from their balance money that you would be sending down 
>to
> >the agent.
>============
>WOW, you guys are gonna cover the wire transfer fees, too!?!?!
>That's crazy! It could be HUNDREDS of dollars for a large transfer like
>that.
>
>
>
> >As soon as you have made the transfer, Please forward the transfer 
>details
> >to agent via the agent's email that i have provided for you below.
> >
> >AGENT'S EMAIL - ( sealand_delivery@your-house.com )
>============
>I'll get Right On That
>Real Soon Now.
>
>
>
> >Please note that it is very important that you forward a copy of these
> >transfer details to this my own email too, as evidence that you have made
> >the payment to the agent and to indicate the date that the payment was
> >made. This is very important for our office records and as evidence to 
>show
> >that payment was made to the agent and date the payment was made.
> >
> >I advice that you find any moneygram or western union money transfer 
>outlet
> >or stores nearer to your place to make the transfer. I will be expecting
> >your mail with a copy ''CC'' of the the money transfer details of the
> >payment to the agent, so that they can arrange with you on the pick -up
> >arrangments.
>=================
>No worries, I will get you the money tomorrow, unfailingly!
>Say, don't I need to know WHOM to send the $ to, some sort of address?
>
>
>
> >You are required to forward the following money transfer details below,
> >after you have done the money transfer..
> >1 - Money transfer code or reference number .
> >2 - Senders name and Address
> >3 - You are to state in your mail the exact amount that you sent after 
>the
> >transfer charges have been deducted.
> >
> >I will be expecting your response with the all these details, because our
> >customer will need this payment to be made to the agent as early as
> >possible to settle all financial aspects covering the pick-up / shipping
> >arrangements, and be assured that he has secured a "booking" with the
> >prepaid agent in order to meet up with their next shipping date.
>============
>Oh, good, I was really hoping you would take care of all the necessary
>"shipping" arrangements.
>I can have the car in town as early as tomorrow.
>
>
>
> >I hope that you can be trusted to meet up with their timing as schedule. 
>I
> >would be expecting your mail with all the required details soon.
> >Thanks.
> >JAMES
>=============
>Should be no problem, as long as you trust me as much as you yourself can 
>be
>trusted. I will cash the check tomorrow and forward the "extra" money right
>to your friend as soon as I know whom to send it to. It's been a pleasure,
>hope to really "pork the pupp" on this deal!
>----------------------
>Chris Witt
>Box NCS-419
>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>Lansing MI 48911
>
>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers!

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 22:17:07 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

Putting new motor mounts on the 442, finally.

I find that some of the slow oil leak around the oil pan may as well be due 
to VERY loose oil pan bollts. I took the starter off too and now have the 
chance to retorque the small and the 4 large bolts.

What torque would you apply, in such a retorque situation? I have dialed in 
7Nm (~5 foot pound) and got all bolts to turn significantly. I am tempted 
to double the torque, 10 ft/lbs, which I remember being about "right" for a 
tin oil pan???

The gasket is rubberized cork. Probably the regular felpro job.

TIA, George

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 22:57:23 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

I went and looked in the factory manual. 10 ft/lb. Then another manual (SB 
chevy) indicated 6-9 for the small and 12 for the big bolts (corners).

I went with 10 ft/lb for the small bolts, and 12 ft/lb for the big ones. I 
am almost certain that this will fix or greatly reduce my leaks. I went a 
big higher in the corners, since that seemed to be the wettest area.

I never had the engine jacked up with both motor mounts and the starter 
missing. I am impressed at the clearance. If the oil leak persists, it 
doesn't seem more than a Saturday evening worth of work to put a new oil 
pan gasket.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 23:28:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

Reasonably hand tight with a 1/4" drive socket driver.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2004 10:17 PM
Subject: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???


> Putting new motor mounts on the 442, finally.
>
> I find that some of the slow oil leak around the oil pan may as well be
due
> to VERY loose oil pan bollts. I took the starter off too and now have the
> chance to retorque the small and the 4 large bolts.
>
> What torque would you apply, in such a retorque situation? I have dialed
in
> 7Nm (~5 foot pound) and got all bolts to turn significantly. I am tempted
> to double the torque, 10 ft/lbs, which I remember being about "right" for
a
> tin oil pan???
>
> The gasket is rubberized cork. Probably the regular felpro job.
>
> TIA, George
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 06:20:32 -0400
From: "Pat Swanton \"swanny\"" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: so I got the non-Olds....

Joe,
If you are tamed at heart this site probably won't be for you, but there are
a great bunch of knowledgeable Ford guys here.

http://www.ricehatersclub.com/vbulletin/index.php?s

Cheers
Pat Swanton
Winchester NH
1978 Cutlass Supreme
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Vahabzadeh" <king_v@mindless.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 11:09 PM
Subject: so I got the non-Olds....


> All,
>
> Ok, between something of time pressure, and future potential and CHEAP
> availability of stuff... I got the 80K mile 1988 Thunderbird... V8 of
course.
>
> So now here's my dilemma.  I bought a non-Olds.
>
> Well, ok, that's not the REAL dilemma.  Well, it is, but indirectly.  See,
> with Oldsmobile, I've got this email list that I'm a member of, you all
> might've heard of it.  ;)
>
>
> With the Ford, well, I know it's a Fox-body, I know it shares a lot of
> Mustang parts, and I know the 5.0 is NOT the same as that in the Mustang.
>
> And that's about it.
>
>
> Does anyone here either know of, or have membership to, an equally
> friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful email-list that might give me the
same
> guidance with the Ford that I've had from this list with my Oldsmobiles?
>
> I'm not exaggerating when I say I feel slightly lost right now, having
> this car with potentially "neat-o" factor, but not knowing a darn thing
> about it!
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> - Joe Vahabzadeh
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 13:08:52 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

At 10:17 PM 8/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Putting new motor mounts on the 442, finally.
>
>I find that some of the slow oil leak around the oil pan may as 
>well be due to VERY loose oil pan bollts. I took the starter off 
>too and now have the chance to retorque the small and the 4 large 
>bolts.

Indeed, I have exactly the same problem with my 1988-vintage 307. I've had
to retighten the pan bolts on my '88 307 THREE TIMES in the last two years
alone. The last time, every one of them was fingertight. The valve cover
nuts on my 307 are just as unreliable; they use studs/nuts on the upper
four but bolts on the lower three and every one of them loosens up over
about a year or so.

>What torque would you apply, in such a retorque situation? I have 
>dialed in 7Nm (~5 foot pound) and got all bolts to turn significantly. 
>I am tempted to double the torque, 10 ft/lbs, which I remember being 
>about "right" for a tin oil pan???

Check your CSM; mine says 10 ft.-lbs.. Personally, I now simply tighten
them. Any mechanic has a "mechanic's feel" when tightening a bolt; you can
tell when it's too loose, tight enough, or getting ready to strip or break.
I do it this way because tightening to the CSM specs, 10 ft.-lbs, clearly
isn't working since they continue to work loose. NEXT time I have to do
this (probly the next oil change, I'm just gwan replace them all with
studs, large washers, lockwashers, and nuts. The studs will be locktited in
the block.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 13:17:57 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

At 11:28 PM 8/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Reasonably hand tight with a 1/4" drive socket driver.
>
>Milton Schick

THERE we go: Milton, too, believes in the "mechanic's feel"  :o)))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 09:41:30 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening stuff

Since this year I'm doing the interior, I am stuck with the decision of
sound deadening panels.  Dynamat, I guess, is the foremost in this materiel
and the stuff is quite pricey, about $.06 (six cents) a square inch
($8.64/sq. foot, if someone cares). .  Is there any other alternative that,
while not being so great, might not also be so hard on the pocketbook?
- --------------------------------

Lots of them. Equal performance, lower price:

Raammat:  http://www.raamaudio.com/
Brown Bread: http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
Second Skin: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

There's also a nearly identical product made for roofng applications.
Asphalt based adhesive with aluminum skin. Any Home Depot has it in the
roofing section, usually 6" widths and 12' long. The brand people prefer is
Peel&Seal but that seems to be a regional thing:

http://www.mfmbp.com/peelseal/

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 10:18:48 EDT
From: Gajs1410@aol.com
Subject: Seat Belts

- -------------------------------1092579528
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

BK,

The plasitc covers on my seat belt retractor ( '65 Cutlass) are pretty easy 
to remove.  There are two slots in the cover where metal tabs on the retractors 
engage.  If you gently squeeze/pry the  covers, you can remove them.  I see 
your problem now,  if the seat belts don't extend, you can't remove pull the 
cover away from the mechanisms...    If the cover does not block access to the 
bolt, remove it and try to access the reel works from the bottom.

Having seatbelts redone in not cheap, I had mine done at around $100.00 a 
set, but they turned out great, would have to look up who did them.

If you need to replace some, I have some green ones out of a Vista Cruiser, I 
would have to take a look at them to find out what kind of condition they are 
in.

SteveK.
_______________________________________________


Hello

I cant seem to find seatbelts for my 72 442. I have good belts now, but the  
retractors wont work. both sides are stuck in the fully retracted position. 
Any  hints on fixing the retractors, or finding suitable replacements?

Thanks
BK

- -------------------------------1092579528
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>BK,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The plasitc covers on my seat belt retractor&nbsp;( '65 Cutlass) are pr=
etty easy to remove.&nbsp; There are two slots in the cover where metal tabs=
 on the retractors engage.&nbsp; If you gently squeeze/pry the&nbsp; covers,=
 you can remove them.&nbsp; I see&nbsp;your problem now,&nbsp; if the seat b=
elts don't extend, you can't remove pull the cover away from the mechanisms.=
..&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If the cover does not block access to the bolt, remove=20=
it and try to access the reel works from the bottom.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Having seatbelts redone in not cheap, I had mine done at around $100.00=
 a set, but they turned out great,&nbsp;would have to look up who did them.<=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If you need to replace some, I have some green ones out of a Vista Crui=
ser, I would have to take a look at them to find out what kind of condition=20=
they are in.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>SteveK.</DIV>
<DIV>_______________________________________________</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Hello<BR><BR>I cant seem to find seatbelts for my 72 442. I have go=
od belts now, but the&nbsp; <BR>retractors wont work. both sides are stuck i=
n the fully retracted position. <BR>Any&nbsp; hints on fixing the retractors=
, or finding suitable replacements?<BR><BR>Thanks<BR>BK</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1092579528--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 11:42:10 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Sound deadening stuff

There is the thick tar-like stuff and there are also other brands that are
similar to Dynamat but less expensive.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

Since this year I'm doing the interior, I am stuck with the decision of
sound deadening panels.  Dynamat, I guess, is the foremost in this materiel
and the stuff is quite pricey, about $.06 (six cents) a square inch
($8.64/sq. foot, if someone cares). .  Is there any other alternative that,
while not being so great, might not also be so hard on the pocketbook?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 11:45:41 -0400
From: jp <limitedattention@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening stuff

I'm about to launch into this phase as well.

I'm restoring my '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  However, I'm also 
customizing it and so "Original" is not a concern.

I've wondered about the pros and cons of "Self Adhesive Matting" VS "Spray On"

The matting seems like no matter how careful you are there will be 
areas where moisture can collect... this is especially troublesome 
with the floor pan in a convertible.

I'm inclined to use a spray on application and years ago I found an 
advertisement in Car Craft for NoiseKiller.  I checked their site in 
England http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/soundproofing.htm and they have 
both Matts and Liquid (water based and can also be brushed on.)

This link http://www.quietnoise.com/index.html will get you to a site 
that sells NoiseKiller as well as informs about noise control.

Anybody try this stuff or other spray ons?

Thoughts on the pros and cons of Matt vs Spray?

Anybody got some "Been there, Done that" advice?

Thanks in advance,

jp






>Since this year I'm doing the interior, I am stuck with the decision of
>sound deadening panels.  Dynamat, I guess, is the foremost in this materiel
>and the stuff is quite pricey, about $.06 (six cents) a square inch
>($8.64/sq. foot, if someone cares). .  Is there any other alternative that,
>while not being so great, might not also be so hard on the pocketbook?
>--------------------------------
>
>Lots of them. Equal performance, lower price:
>
>Raammat:  http://www.raamaudio.com/
>Brown Bread: http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
>Second Skin: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
>
>There's also a nearly identical product made for roofng applications.
>Asphalt based adhesive with aluminum skin. Any Home Depot has it in the
>roofing section, usually 6" widths and 12' long. The brand people prefer is
>Peel&Seal but that seems to be a regional thing:
>
>http://www.mfmbp.com/peelseal/
>
>drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 12:59:56 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

small daps of red lock tight keep  valve cover and oil pan bolts from backing out,  my 422 had lots
of miles in 4 yrs of beating the hell out of it and never leaked oil from valve covers or oil pan,
just the dam front seal
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???


> At 10:17 PM 8/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >Putting new motor mounts on the 442, finally.
> >
> >I find that some of the slow oil leak around the oil pan may as
> >well be due to VERY loose oil pan bollts. I took the starter off
> >too and now have the chance to retorque the small and the 4 large
> >bolts.
>
> Indeed, I have exactly the same problem with my 1988-vintage 307. I've had
> to retighten the pan bolts on my '88 307 THREE TIMES in the last two years
> alone. The last time, every one of them was fingertight. The valve cover
> nuts on my 307 are just as unreliable; they use studs/nuts on the upper
> four but bolts on the lower three and every one of them loosens up over
> about a year or so.
>
> >What torque would you apply, in such a retorque situation? I have
> >dialed in 7Nm (~5 foot pound) and got all bolts to turn significantly.
> >I am tempted to double the torque, 10 ft/lbs, which I remember being
> >about "right" for a tin oil pan???
>
> Check your CSM; mine says 10 ft.-lbs.. Personally, I now simply tighten
> them. Any mechanic has a "mechanic's feel" when tightening a bolt; you can
> tell when it's too loose, tight enough, or getting ready to strip or break.
> I do it this way because tightening to the CSM specs, 10 ft.-lbs, clearly
> isn't working since they continue to work loose. NEXT time I have to do
> this (probly the next oil change, I'm just gwan replace them all with
> studs, large washers, lockwashers, and nuts. The studs will be locktited in
> the block.
>
> SteveH
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 13:49:50 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

Blue #242 is better than red #221. Red is more permanent than blue. Blue
#242 is for applications that will be serviced periodically. Red #221 is for
hardware that is assemble
and forget it. Either will bake and harden over time.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of ron fama
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 1:00 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???


small daps of red lock tight keep  valve cover and oil pan bolts from
backing out,  my 422 had lots
of miles in 4 yrs of beating the hell out of it and never leaked oil from
valve covers or oil pan,
just the dam front seal
ron
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???


> At 10:17 PM 8/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >Putting new motor mounts on the 442, finally.
> >
> >I find that some of the slow oil leak around the oil pan may as
> >well be due to VERY loose oil pan bollts. I took the starter off
> >too and now have the chance to retorque the small and the 4 large
> >bolts.
>
> Indeed, I have exactly the same problem with my 1988-vintage 307. I've had
> to retighten the pan bolts on my '88 307 THREE TIMES in the last two years
> alone. The last time, every one of them was fingertight. The valve cover
> nuts on my 307 are just as unreliable; they use studs/nuts on the upper
> four but bolts on the lower three and every one of them loosens up over
> about a year or so.
>
> >What torque would you apply, in such a retorque situation? I have
> >dialed in 7Nm (~5 foot pound) and got all bolts to turn significantly.
> >I am tempted to double the torque, 10 ft/lbs, which I remember being
> >about "right" for a tin oil pan???
>
> Check your CSM; mine says 10 ft.-lbs.. Personally, I now simply tighten
> them. Any mechanic has a "mechanic's feel" when tightening a bolt; you can
> tell when it's too loose, tight enough, or getting ready to strip or
break.
> I do it this way because tightening to the CSM specs, 10 ft.-lbs, clearly
> isn't working since they continue to work loose. NEXT time I have to do
> this (probly the next oil change, I'm just gwan replace them all with
> studs, large washers, lockwashers, and nuts. The studs will be locktited
in
> the block.
>
> SteveH
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 14:40:36 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: RE: oil pan bolt retorque torque number???

And a torch at 350* F will make the bolt turn like you filled the hole with 
WD-40.  : )

M


At 01:49 PM 8/15/2004 -0400, Jack Koph wrote:
>Blue #242 is better than red #221. Red is more permanent than blue. Blue 
>#242 is for applications that will be serviced periodically. Red #221 is for
>hardware that is assemble and forget it. Either will bake and harden over 
>time.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4989
*********************************
