
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 24 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4999



Re: FW: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
RE: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
UNBOUNCE: Cutlass 442
Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
FW: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
RE: '67 98 2 dr hdtp
Re: "GEN" Light
Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
Re: "GEN" Light
Re: Stroke calculations
Re: comp check
RE: Stroke calculations
Re: "GEN" Light
Re: Stroke calculations
PART F/S
Re: "GEN" Light
Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
Re: "GEN" Light
Re: "GEN" Light
RE: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
B-Body Conversion Awry - Thanks and another question
Re: "GEN" Light
Re: B-Body Conversion Awry - Thanks and another question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:23:17 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FW: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

> But as you pointed out, that's a '78.
>
> The '77 PC I have has the cruise switch (I'm sure it's the same switch
that
> you speak about being on the right-hand dash piece on your '78) on the
> driver's side dash piece, in the same area of the 3-guage ralleye pack.

The multitude of switch layouts lasted into the early '80's.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 16:47:02 -0500
From: <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: RE: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

Fred said:

>If you want to add the factory gages (which were first offered
>in 1978, n/a in 1977) to a car with switches in the way, they can be
>relocated...

<DING DING DING> And there's the answer to Steve's original question:

>>Also, were the replicas equipped with a rallye-gage setup as standard
>>or was that still an option as in the regular Deltas?

Another mystery solved, courtesy your friendly neighborhood Oldsmobile
Mailing List.
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Frederick Nissen
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 4:19 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403


> So...with David Manly's information below, one could hypothesize that a
> Holiday 88 (or rather, any '77 - '81 Delta with a Ralleye pack and cruise
> control) must have had the stalk with all the cruise-control functions on
it
> and not the two-piece cruise arrangement which came on my Pace Car.
>
> This implies a wider availablity of the '77-'81 Ralley-pack specific left
> hand dash piece (with provision for the guage package as well as the wiper
> controls) than I had previously believed existed.  Still haven't seen one
in
> person, though...

- -------------------------------
There were many variations of the RH dash that allowed mounting of the
cruise and rear defog (as well as tailgate window) switches.   I don't know
why they did this, but I suspect it was for convenience on the cars without
the gages.    If you want to add the factory gages (which were first offered
in 1978, n/a in 1977) to a car with switches in the way, they can be
relocated, but it is a bit of work and you need to find the correct RH
panels in comparable condition to the other panels in the car..

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:35:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

On Mon, 23 Aug 2004, Frederick Nissen wrote:
> If you want to add the factory gages (which were first offered
> in 1978, n/a in 1977) to a car with switches in the way, they can be
> relocated, but it is a bit of work and you need to find the correct RH
> panels in comparable condition to the other panels in the car..

That may settle it, then. If the gage package wasn't offered in '77 then
pace cars wouldn't have it. I didn't know that. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:38:56 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Cutlass 442

Not on the list, respond to gary.patterson@delphi.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: Cutlass 442
From:   "gary.patterson" <gary.patterson@delphi.com>


Can you tell me if there is a data base that can tell me what my car is? 
I have the VIN # 338177M193169, it is badge a 442 and the previous owner
claims that it was a W-30 car but those parts were stolen off of it some
time ago. 

I would like to verify what this car is, any help or links would be
appreciated. 

Gary Patterson
Account Manager
Delphi Corporation
gary.patterson@delphi.com *
(248) 813-4875    
(248) 321-4244 Cell
(248) 813-4855 Fax

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:35:36 -0400
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

> The ones you saw may well have had the gage package, but it was not
included
> in the "Holiday 88" option.  The "Holiday 88" option was available on the
> base (L-37) Delta 88 Coupe from 1978 through 1981 and included bucket
seats,
> sport mirrors, sport steering wheel, painted wheel covers, and a console
> with floor shift.  The seats, console and steering wheel were borrowed
from
> the Cutlass.  The option was available on any base Delta 88 Coupe.  I.E.,
> you could order one with a V6, if so inclined.

Thanks for the clarification Fred!  Always did fancy those Holiday '88s.
Dont think I have ever seen one for sale locally.  I had a regular bench
seat '78 88 for 5 years or so, and an '80 88 as well. I would have liked to
convert one of them to bench seat floor shift, but being a starving college
student prevented any of that fun.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:09:14 -0500
From: <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: FW: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

Rob -

The bench seat would have prevented the installation of the Cutlass-derived
floor shift console, due to the 60% arrangement of the middle
seat/passenger's seat.  Doesn't mean you couldn't have cut it, though...


>
>Thanks for the clarification Fred!  Always did fancy those Holiday '88s.
>Dont think I have ever seen one for sale locally.  I had a regular bench
>seat '78 88 for 5 years or so, and an '80 88 as well. I would have liked to
>convert one of them to bench seat floor shift, but being a starving college
>student prevented any of that fun.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:18:12 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: '67 98 2 dr hdtp

I'm pretty familiar with both car models, and I agree with Fred.

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Frederick Nissen
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 7:30 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: '67 98 2 dr hdtp
>
>
> Starfires are neat, but it sounds like the '67 98 is the better car of the
> two.  A 67k original car beats one that was run hard and put away
> wet.  You
> also get a lot of parts interchange with your LS.  Value is tough to
> guesstimate without seeing the cars and knowing more of the local
> market in
> your area.  The summer is winding down, and there would be some deals out
> there before stuff has to be stored for the winter.
>
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 16:17:54 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

Scott, it sounds to me like a diode in the rectifier bridge going out.Since
there are about 6 of them (depending on your alt), it will still show a
charge. If more go out the light will stay on full time. Sometimes the light
will stay on if only one goes to ground. Eventually it will need to be
repaired. Rick Messenger
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 1:05 PM
Subject: "GEN" Light


> On a recent road trip, the GEN light in my 75 Delta 88 gradually lit up,
> stayed at full intensity for 3-5 seconds, then faded out.  This repeated
> every 10-15 minutes or so at highway speed.  Lights worked fine and
battery
> starts her right up.  I thought that when an alternate goes, it just goes.
> And the belt seems fine.  Any tips (and advice on belt tightness)
> appreciated.
> Thanks.
> Scott Parker
> 71 442 convertible
> 75 Delta 88 Royale convertible
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 19:14:04 -0400
From: "RobV" <rv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

Brian,

Well, I would have just taken out that bench and put in a pair of buckets
from a junkyard car.  As long as the bolt pattern would have lined up, I
woul have been ok, 'course, I dont know if they actually do line up or not.
Looking back, I cant believe I didnt try the swap.  Could have gotten a
console and shifter setup too.  It certainly would have been a cool
conversion.  That V8 350 was smooth, and launched well!

Rob
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 6:09 PM
Subject: FW: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403


> Rob -
>
> The bench seat would have prevented the installation of the
Cutlass-derived
> floor shift console, due to the 60% arrangement of the middle
> seat/passenger's seat.  Doesn't mean you couldn't have cut it, though...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 19:49:57 -0400
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

Thanks, Rick.  Is this correctable only through replacement of the
alternator, is are you referring to some other part when you mention the
rectifier bridge?
Scott
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light


> Scott, it sounds to me like a diode in the rectifier bridge going
out.Since
> there are about 6 of them (depending on your alt), it will still show a
> charge. If more go out the light will stay on full time. Sometimes the
light
> will stay on if only one goes to ground. Eventually it will need to be
> repaired. Rick Messenger
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
> To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 1:05 PM
> Subject: "GEN" Light
>
>
> > On a recent road trip, the GEN light in my 75 Delta 88 gradually lit up,
> > stayed at full intensity for 3-5 seconds, then faded out.  This repeated
> > every 10-15 minutes or so at highway speed.  Lights worked fine and
> battery
> > starts her right up.  I thought that when an alternate goes, it just
goes.
> > And the belt seems fine.  Any tips (and advice on belt tightness)
> > appreciated.
> > Thanks.
> > Scott Parker
> > 71 442 convertible
> > 75 Delta 88 Royale convertible
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:19:52 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Stroke calculations

Me too...   ; )

M

At 11:50 AM 8/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Eric,
>
>I'd like a copy, if you would like to send it to me as an attachment via
>E-mail, privately. That would be handy for evaluating different rod lengths
>and how length affects piston speed.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 10:32 AM
>Subject: RE: Stroke calculations
>
>
> > I'm sorry about my earlier post, I thought you wanted to know the distance
> > between the top of the piston and the top of the deck at TDC.  I now read
>it
> > as you want to know the distance below the TDC piston height at a given
> > crank angle.
> >
> > I have an excel sheet with the trig done for this for anyone who's
> > interested, just plug in your stroke and your rod length.
> >
> > Eric
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Steve Harrison
> > Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 7:02 PM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Stroke calculations
> >
> >
> > At 11:46 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> > >> Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC. Basically,
> > set
> > >> timing with a dial indicator gage.
> > >
> > >
> > >Unfortunately, the piston changes speed, and therefore distance traveled,
> > >during the complete piston stroke cycle. At TDC, there's even a short
>dwell
> > >time when the piston is stopped and the rod is changing direction from up
> > to
> > >down. So, the speed isn't constant and that makes calculating the piston
> > >position at 30 BTDC very interesting to determine.
> > >
> > >I just looked in my copy of Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets. I didn't find
> > >anything. Of course, if the engine was apart, with the short block
>mounted
> > >on an engine stand, it would be easy to find out. Just rotate the
>harmonic
> > >balancer with a timing tape to 30 BTDC and measure the distance from the
> > >piston top to the block deck. But calculating it, I don't know.
> >
> > It would comprise simple trigonometry although unless yer Einstein, you'd
> > likely have to draw the whole thing out from crankshaft to piston-top and
> > block deck, and calculate the appropriate hypotenuse lengths and the like.
> > Yeah, 'twud be inneresting alright. Only DaveC could come up with
>something
> > like this  ;o)))))))))))
> >
> > Boy, talk about something to think about while lying in bed, trying to get
> > to sleep. Definitely better than counting sheep  :o)))))))))))
> >
> > SteveH
> >

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 00:18:24 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: comp check

At 12:15 PM 8/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Oh, well. Fortunately, Sharky didn't burn out the coil in the 
>magneto with that overload.

It wasn't actually an "overload"; it was an UNDERload as there was NO load
on the magneto  ;o)

He was damb lucky he didn't get zapped. A guy at Lion's Drag Strip got
zapped from a friend's magneto once and died of a heart attack right in the
pits  ;o((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 00:13:43 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Stroke calculations

At 01:58 PM 8/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Right now it doesn't do piston speed, but I could add that easily.  Anyone
>else want anything added to this?

I would like a copy of it, if you please. And if you don't already have it
published on the web or plan to, I could put it on my pages, as I did with
the Quadrajet metering spreadsheet ("Quadrajet Tuning Helper") here:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/QJet/QjetTuningHelper.htm

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:21:55 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

Scott, I am assuming that your cars have a Delco Alt., and that they are
some where between 45-60 amp. load. No you do not have to replace the Alt..
You can take it off your car and take it into an automotive electric shop
and have it tested, and repaired if you wish. Or for around 25$ or so you
can get an aftermarket rebuild kit, and repair it your self. If you get
"genuine Delco"parts, expect to pay about twice(or more) for the kit. I just
rebuilt the 65 amp. Alt. in Mary Jane with an aftermarket "up grade" kit
that bumped my amp. out put from 65amp to 120amps!; It cost me 30$ and
actually works . Problem is the gen. light comes on at idle, and goes off as
soon as I reach about 800rpms. . The solution to that is to replace my stock
pulley, with a smaller diameter one to make the Alt.spin faster at idle. I
am sure that the purists on the list will have a few "guffaws" to add; but
hey, 120amps for 30$ satisfies my Scottage blood, and sure beats the 300$
for a new 120 ampere.
    If you have never attempted to take apart an Alt. before, it's not all
that difficult if you pay attention to what you are doing. A little hint,
mark the outer case halves, so you put them back together in the correct
position.  Hope this helps!   Rick
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light


> Thanks, Rick.  Is this correctable only through replacement of the
> alternator, is are you referring to some other part when you mention the
> rectifier bridge?
> Scott
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 7:17 PM
> Subject: Re: "GEN" Light
>
>
> > Scott, it sounds to me like a diode in the rectifier bridge going
> out.Since
> > there are about 6 of them (depending on your alt), it will still show a
> > charge. If more go out the light will stay on full time. Sometimes the
> light
> > will stay on if only one goes to ground. Eventually it will need to be
> > repaired. Rick Messenger
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
> > To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 1:05 PM
> > Subject: "GEN" Light
> >
> >
> > > On a recent road trip, the GEN light in my 75 Delta 88 gradually lit
up,
> > > stayed at full intensity for 3-5 seconds, then faded out.  This
repeated
> > > every 10-15 minutes or so at highway speed.  Lights worked fine and
> > battery
> > > starts her right up.  I thought that when an alternate goes, it just
> goes.
> > > And the belt seems fine.  Any tips (and advice on belt tightness)
> > > appreciated.
> > > Thanks.
> > > Scott Parker
> > > 71 442 convertible
> > > 75 Delta 88 Royale convertible
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:25:55 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: Stroke calculations

Can you send me a copy too?  Please.            Rick
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: Stroke calculations


> Me too...   ; )
>
> M
>
> At 11:50 AM 8/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >Eric,
> >
> >I'd like a copy, if you would like to send it to me as an attachment via
> >E-mail, privately. That would be handy for evaluating different rod
lengths
> >and how length affects piston speed.
> >
> >Milton Schick
> >1964 442 Cutlass
> >imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
> >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 10:32 AM
> >Subject: RE: Stroke calculations
> >
> >
> > > I'm sorry about my earlier post, I thought you wanted to know the
distance
> > > between the top of the piston and the top of the deck at TDC.  I now
read
> >it
> > > as you want to know the distance below the TDC piston height at a
given
> > > crank angle.
> > >
> > > I have an excel sheet with the trig done for this for anyone who's
> > > interested, just plug in your stroke and your rod length.
> > >
> > > Eric
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > > [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Steve Harrison
> > > Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 7:02 PM
> > > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > > Subject: Re: Stroke calculations
> > >
> > >
> > > At 11:46 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >> Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC.
Basically,
> > > set
> > > >> timing with a dial indicator gage.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Unfortunately, the piston changes speed, and therefore distance
traveled,
> > > >during the complete piston stroke cycle. At TDC, there's even a short
> >dwell
> > > >time when the piston is stopped and the rod is changing direction
from up
> > > to
> > > >down. So, the speed isn't constant and that makes calculating the
piston
> > > >position at 30 BTDC very interesting to determine.
> > > >
> > > >I just looked in my copy of Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets. I didn't
find
> > > >anything. Of course, if the engine was apart, with the short block
> >mounted
> > > >on an engine stand, it would be easy to find out. Just rotate the
> >harmonic
> > > >balancer with a timing tape to 30 BTDC and measure the distance from
the
> > > >piston top to the block deck. But calculating it, I don't know.
> > >
> > > It would comprise simple trigonometry although unless yer Einstein,
you'd
> > > likely have to draw the whole thing out from crankshaft to piston-top
and
> > > block deck, and calculate the appropriate hypotenuse lengths and the
like.
> > > Yeah, 'twud be inneresting alright. Only DaveC could come up with
> >something
> > > like this  ;o)))))))))))
> > >
> > > Boy, talk about something to think about while lying in bed, trying to
get
> > > to sleep. Definitely better than counting sheep  :o)))))))))))
> > >
> > > SteveH
> > >
>
> Mark Mullins
> Tucson, Az
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 20:42:32 EDT
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: PART F/S

- -------------------------------1093308152
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a set of the tall cast aluminum valve covers, has "OLDSMOBILE" on each 
cover. Will clear most all rocker set ups & stud girdles. Both have 1 1/4 in 
threaded bung welded for the breathers. In excellent condition. Will deliver 
to the Nationals in Bloomington, MN.
$250 obo. E-mail for pic if interested or purchase.
Thank you
Leigh Tenenholtz

- -------------------------------1093308152
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2730.1700" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>I have a set of the tall cast aluminum valve covers, has "OLDSMOBILE" o=
n each cover. Will clear most all rocker set ups &amp; stud girdles. Both ha=
ve 1 1/4 in threaded bung welded for the breathers. In excellent condition.=20=
Will deliver to the Nationals in Bloomington, MN.</DIV>
<DIV>$250 obo. E-mail for pic if interested or purchase.</DIV>
<DIV>Thank you</DIV>
<DIV>Leigh Tenenholtz</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1093308152--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:02:21 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

Rick,

> I just
> rebuilt the 65 amp. Alt. in Mary Jane with an aftermarket "up grade" kit
> that bumped my amp. out put from 65amp to 120amps!; It cost me 30$ and
> actually works .


Normally, the difference in alternator output, i.e. 35 amp, 55 amp, 65 amp,
90 amp, etc. is a different armature, on the central shaft. Sometimes the
field coils in the case are different too. So how does a $30 kit upgrade
from 65 amps to 120 amps???

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 21:27:31 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

>
> The Pace Car I own came with 11" rotors on a US (standard) size spindle.
> They differ from the '84 11" rotors in spindle diameter - the '84 is a
> slightly larger, metric size.  My mind is failing re: exactly what mods I
> have made to it at this point,

Careful with those metric studs; as witnessed by my having to replace a few
rear wheelstuds on a 1990 Custom Cruiser (front lugnuts matched, too) leads
me to believe that all B-bodies through 1990 carrying 12" rotors were
STANDARD studs...

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 01:18:58 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

At 04:05 PM 8/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>On a recent road trip, the GEN light in my 75 Delta 88 gradually lit up,
>stayed at full intensity for 3-5 seconds, then faded out.  This repeated
>every 10-15 minutes or so at highway speed.  Lights worked fine and battery
>starts her right up.  I thought that when an alternate goes, it just goes.
>And the belt seems fine.  Any tips (and advice on belt tightness)
>appreciated.

I've had an alternator with bad bearings that sometimes, DIDN'T have bad
bearings  ;o\  I mean, sometimes, it spun perfectly freely and other times,
it seemed like the bearings all got in some alignment that created a lot of
drag. I took the thing apart half a dozen times, looking for something
rubbing inside, but never found anything. Eventually, I installed the rear
half from another alternator and never had another problem. I figgered it
was the bearings.

What I'm wondering, in your case, is whether your belt began slipping badly
when you saw the light come on. This could have happened if you somehow
applied a heavy electrical load, requiring a lot of charging current from
the alternator. Belts can slip without making the usual horrendous
screeching noise, but not often. It's possible, too, that maybe you were
running hot, and got radiator overflow blown onto the belt, causing it to
slip until it evaporated. Or, perhaps you were driving in a downpour??
Possibly your water pump drooled onto the crank pulley, causing the belts
to slip for a time.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:50:31 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

Milt,

In this case, you replace the field coils. When I first got them I didn't
see any difference, I expected them to be different, with more windings.
When I called the parts house back that I bought them from and said ,"hey,
what's the deal with this new field coil, it looks like the orig.". The
parts guy said look at the 3 leads, and compare them with yours. I did, and
mine were single wire, and his were double wire. It had been double wound in
a way I had never seen before. So feeling kind of stupid, and trying to get
the taste of crow out of my mouth; I took it over to a 40 year journey
veteran Cadillac mechanic, and he didn't see it either! So I didn't feel so
stupid. J.C. Whitney sells the kit under the "Quick Start" brand name. I
picked up my parts at an Auto Electric shop here in Spokane; it consisted of
field coil, diode trio, regulator, rectifier bridge, brush holder with
brushes, and front & rear bearings. All for around 30$ plus tax. All I can
say is it works good so far, even though  the "aftermarket" parts came from
China.  Don't repeat this to a Delco rep, but the word on the sly is that
some of the original Delco parts swim from that far as well. Of course this
is just a rumor.

Rick
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light


> Rick,
>
> > I just
> > rebuilt the 65 amp. Alt. in Mary Jane with an aftermarket "up grade" kit
> > that bumped my amp. out put from 65amp to 120amps!; It cost me 30$ and
> > actually works .
>
>
> Normally, the difference in alternator output, i.e. 35 amp, 55 amp, 65
amp,
> 90 amp, etc. is a different armature, on the central shaft. Sometimes the
> field coils in the case are different too. So how does a $30 kit upgrade
> from 65 amps to 120 amps???
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 01:56:03 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

At 04:47 PM 8/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Fred said:
>
>>If you want to add the factory gages (which were first offered
>>in 1978, n/a in 1977) to a car with switches in the way, they can be
>>relocated...
>
><DING DING DING> And there's the answer to Steve's original question:
>
>>>Also, were the replicas equipped with a rallye-gage setup as standard
>>>or was that still an option as in the regular Deltas?
>
>Another mystery solved, courtesy your friendly neighborhood Oldsmobile
>Mailing List.

Dang it, that's not really what I wanted to hear... nor expected  ;o(  I
was hoping (and sorta expecting) that a Pace Car would have the appropriate
equipment that one would expect in a "high-performance" car (regardless of
whether one really considers a Delta 88 to be "high-perf", it WAS the Indy
500 Pace Car in 1977). That would include Olds' strongest engine, rear end,
tranny, biggest brakes available... AND FULL GAGES. I mean, who in their
right mind would EVER consider making a few laps at Indy without gages???
==================8-O

The reason for my interest is simply that I've always been interested in
the '77-'79 D88s, particularly the PC due to its unique paint scheme. The
403, of course, is icing on the cake although only having a TH350 is kinda
a downer  ;o( Then JoeV mentioned that one for sale the other day, right
after we got home from taking our son to Virginia in our BBA
(blueboatanchor, for the unknowing). The BBA suffered seriously on this
trip, unfortunately; the 4th gear (overdrive) clutches burned up only
90-100 miles into the drive, and we drove the remaining 1100 miles in 3rd
gear (direct drive). I learned a lot of inneresting things about the car on
this trip, particularly the tranny. Anyone who's particularly curious can
read my mini-novel about the experience here:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/88%20Caprice%20Wagon/BoyToSchool.htm

Briefly: in addition to the tranny almost dying, we drove back through a
few hours of sheer downpours in Pennsylvania and New York. Due to a rotted
rear wheelwell on the passenger's side, there was 2" of water in the rear
passenger's floorpan and an inch in the front seat passenger's by the time
we got home. Since the wife, who was sleeping as I drove through the rain,
had her feet in that cold water for a few hours, she felt (and acted, just
a bit) like a wet cat by the time we got home.

The BBA's still a decent car, but it now needs considerable body work, a
tranny, and still more brake and rear axle work. The old 307 needs valve
seals. So I've been considering a replacement of some kind. A '77-'79 D88
of the right kind might fill the bill. Another BBA of '88-'90 vintage is
another possibility, depending on condition, etc. Nothing later than 1990
is worth my consideration, though. And it'd sure be nice if the replacement
were a real Oldsmobile this time instead of merely an Oldsmolet :o)

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 02:25:10 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

At 09:27 PM 8/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> The Pace Car I own came with 11" rotors on a US (standard) size spindle.
>> They differ from the '84 11" rotors in spindle diameter - the '84 is a
>> slightly larger, metric size.  My mind is failing re: exactly what mods I
>> have made to it at this point,
>
>Careful with those metric studs; as witnessed by my having to replace a few
>rear wheelstuds on a 1990 Custom Cruiser (front lugnuts matched, too) leads
>me to believe that all B-bodies through 1990 carrying 12" rotors were
>STANDARD studs...

Indeed: they are 1/2"x20. No doubt about it, I'd just put new wheels and
tires last week along with new mag-style lug nuts:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/88%20Caprice%20Wagon/NewTires.htm

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:38:03 -0400
From: travis gummels <travis@gummels.com>
Subject: B-Body Conversion Awry - Thanks and another question

Thanks for all the input on the spacers.  I'd be using 6061 if I go with 
the spacers and I buy aluminum.  I can get plate steel at school for 
free so thats another avenue I could follow.

I was discussing the issue with the automotive shop teacher tonight and 
he asked if I'd like to horse trade my 14x7 SSI's for a set of after 
market chrome Corvette Rally 15x8 wheels.  So I checked on rubber and I 
can get some Yokohama Avid STs in 245/60/15 from tire rack for 56 each, 
which the local tire place I deal with should match.  I can maybe swing 
200 and change for a set of tires ... I can't swing extra cash for rims 
(I'd not be bothering y'all and I'd be gettign 15x7 SSI's).

Would those wheels
  a) Look totally stupid on the car
  b) fit correctly with the 245/60/15 (ie not bow out to the rim like 
12.50x33's on 15x10s)
  c) be the right hight with that tire
  d) turn with out scrubbing
  e) be worth trading my original wheels for considering originals will 
not fit unless I use a spacer.

Again, comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Travis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 20:07:02 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: "GEN" Light

> In this case, you replace the field coils.


Hmmm.


> The
> parts guy said look at the 3 leads, and compare them with yours. I did,
and
> mine were single wire, and his were double wire. It had been double wound
in
> a way I had never seen before.


That's innovative.


> it consisted of
> field coil, diode trio, regulator, rectifier bridge, brush holder with
> brushes, and front & rear bearings. All for around 30$ plus tax.


What!?!?!? I just spent twice that much for everything, premium parts, minus
the field coil of course, from Standard/Blue Streak at jobber price.
Cheezeeeeee!

I've got to find a better source for alternator parts.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:33:04 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: B-Body Conversion Awry - Thanks and another question

At 10:38 PM 8/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I was discussing the issue with the automotive shop teacher tonight and 
>he asked if I'd like to horse trade my 14x7 SSI's for a set of after 
>market chrome Corvette Rally 15x8 wheels.  So I checked on rubber and I 
>can get some Yokohama Avid STs in 245/60/15 from tire rack for 56 each, 
>which the local tire place I deal with should match.  I can maybe swing 
>200 and change for a set of tires ... I can't swing extra cash for rims 
>(I'd not be bothering y'all and I'd be gettign 15x7 SSI's).
>
>Would those wheels
>  a) Look totally stupid on the car

Vette rallye wheels have always been one my favorites. But the Ch*bby
center cap doesn't look right on ANY Olds  ;o((((

>  b) fit correctly with the 245/60/15 (ie not bow out to the rim like 
>12.50x33's on 15x10s)

What a coincidence: I JUST HAPPENED to put a set of 245/70-15s on my BBA
last week (compared to the 245/60s you're getting). I chose that size
because I was trying to get as close to the original 225/75-15 height and
treadwidth as possible. Unfortunately, these are just under an inch wider
and maybe 1/4" taller. They do rub on the bolts inside the outer part of my
wheelwells when the wagon hits a larger road dip. Here's they are:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobile/88%20Caprice%20Wagon/NewTires.htm

If I were to buy again, I would get the 235/70-15s and suffer with an inch
shorter height than stock. After all, it doesn't make a whole lot of
difference on the front and the old tires I had, 215/75-15s, were a BUNCH
shorter than these; you can see that in one those pictures.

>  c) be the right hight with that tire
>  d) turn with out scrubbing

I have no problems with scrubbing while turning, just going into a large dip.

OH YES: the REAL reason I've got scrubbing problems is because the wagon
wheels I bought are only 3-3/4" offset whereas the stock wheels are 4-1/2".
So that puts the center of the tires outboard by 3/4". Then the tire tread
is about 3/8" wider on each side, exacerbating the situation. And then the
tires I now have are just a bit taller than stock, about 1/2".

>  e) be worth trading my original wheels for considering originals will 
>not fit unless I use a spacer.

If you want a report on how the Avid S/Ts work: I LOVE them, insofar as
traction is concerned. When I first got the monstrous rear tires, though,
they didn't seem to have much more traction than the Wrangler A/T 235/75s I
had on the rear. Those were light truck tires, All-Season, and weren't very
good in snow or on wet painted crosswalk surfaces. I could easily spin them
on dry pavement even with my stock 307 and this 4600-lb boatanchor. The new
275/60 Avids were a bit more difficult to spin, but I still could do it.
However, after a few thousand miles, they've become much stickier: I can't
spin them any longer.

I've only got about 1300 miles on the new 245/70-15 front tires but we
drove through a few hours of sheer downpouring rain at 65+ mph last
Saturday morning. At all times, they all felt solidly planted, the best
feel I've ever had when driving in the rain. And of course, they're like
rails on dry pavement.

The one thing I DON'T like is that it seems my front tires and new wheels
may not be perfectly balanced. OR, perhaps my rotors are slightly out of
balance, throwing the whole front axle assy out of balance. I have a bit of
imbalance starting at about 55 mph, worst at about 60 mph. During the last
few hours of our drive, I noticed the constant imbalance changed
characteristics. Instead of continual slight shaking of the steery wheel,
the steery wheel would be nice and quiet for 10-20 seconds, then start a
slight shaking, coming to a peak, and going away again. This lasted maybe
5-10 seconds, then 10-20 seconds of quiet followed by 5-10 seconds of
shaking again. When I got the rear tires and wheels installed, there was
absolutely NO shaking whatsoever: everything felt perfectly balanced.

The other thing I noticed is compared to the old Wrangler A/Ts I had on the
rear, these Avids are QUIET. The only time they make much noise is going
over some kinds of concrete pavement on bridges; then they give off a
moderately loud whining/whirling. The first few times that happened, the
wife was asleep and was startled awake.

In comparision to the old Goodrich T/As I had on the front, these Avids are
rock-solid going around curves. Those T/As never did feel all that
comfortable and the car always felt like it wanted to understeer when I hit
a highway curve just a bit too fast. The Avids never gave me that feeling
this last trip.

SteveH

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4999
*********************************
