
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, August 18 2004     Volume 01 : Number 4992



Re: oil pan bolt torqueing process
Re: `82 Toro/Rivy reliability
Cars/Parts for sale
Re: 455
Remote mirror bezel for 70 Sport Mirror
Re: 455
Re: Remote mirror bezel for 70 Sport Mirror
Re: Remote mirror bezel for 70 Sport Mirror
Newer Quadrojet Kit
FYA: AWAITING AGENT'S PAYMENT DETAILS.
FYA: STILL AWAITING YOUR RESPONSE.
RE: Newer Quadrojet Kit
Re: Newer Quadrojet Kit
RE: Newer Quadrojet Kit
Re: Newer Quadrojet Kit
Re: dash pad question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:47:55 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: oil pan bolt torqueing process

> Make sure your pan's flange is flat; gently hammer the
> metal around the smaller holes back towards the screw head if previous
> gorilla has over tightened them and bent the metal.


Find a piece of wood that fits the flange. Lock the wood in a vice. Place
the oil pan or valve cover rail on the edge of the wood and tap with a
hammer to flatten the rail back straight and smooth. The wood will give a
solid support and prevent rail deformation.

After installing the oil pan or valve cover, hand tighten/torque the bolts
in the same sequence and pattern and as intake manifold bolts are secured
and torqued. Continue until no bolts are loose.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 15:25:12 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mick442@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: `82 Toro/Rivy reliability

> Now granted, it has been many years since I was working at Hydramatic and
> making parts for the THM325 transmissions that went into the 1979 and 1980
> Toronados, Rivieras, and Eldorados, but my recollection is that this was a
> front drive version of the THM200 and not the THM350.  The area where I
> worked in the plant made quite a few parts that interchanged into both the
> THM200 and THM325.

I would bet your right Tom. I'm only going on what I was told years ago and
you know how that is. The TH325 number probably helped with my confusion.

Mick Gillespie
1969 442 Conv. (clone)
1980 Toro
http://members.rogers.com/mick442/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 18:09:09 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@mchsi.com>
Subject: Cars/Parts for sale

- --Apple-Mail-18-660316548
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It is a long story but it all comes down to I need to get rid of some  
parts and cars.  I haven't had time to go through everything, but here  
is some of my stuff.  I thought I'd pass them on here before they go up  
on 442.com.

G-Body Parts for Sale
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
NOS Quarters $750 a piece or discount for a pair
NOS Lightning Rods $850
Used Alumn Hood $125
NOS Rockers
NOS Rear wheel wells
NOS H/O Emblems
Lots of used parts

G-Body Cars for Sale
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
83 Hurst/Olds Hardtop -- Completely stripped.  Needs Quarters
83 Hurst/Olds T-Tops -- Complete running car, but needs sheetmetal.   
Frame good.
84 Hurst/Olds MoonRoof -- Frame off on a rotisserie, new everything.   
Rebuilt motor and trans.  Needs finishing.

68 Parts for Sale
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Texas bumper, trunk lid and drivers door,
442 air cleaners $60 - needs work, $125 - restored,
442 distributor $120
Misc.

I can bring any of these parts to the Nationals or Quad States.

Please e-mail me off the list.

- -Dan

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
- ----------
Dan Williams                      442Much@mchsi.com
H/OCA Price Watch Advisor         <Send me the sale price of any  
Hurst/Olds>

68 442 Convertible                 
http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html
83 Hurst/Olds                     #1649/3001 - Hardtop
83 Hurst/Olds                     #2558/3001 - T-Top
84 Hurst/Olds                     Power Moon Roof

- --Apple-Mail-18-660316548
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/enriched;
	charset=US-ASCII

It is a long story but it all comes down to I need to get rid of some
parts and cars.  I haven't had time to go through everything, but here
is some of my stuff.  I thought I'd pass them on here before they go
up on 442.com.  


G-Body Parts for Sale

- ------------------------------------------------------------------

NOS Quarters $750 a piece or discount for a pair

NOS Lightning Rods $850

Used Alumn Hood $125

NOS Rockers

NOS Rear wheel wells

NOS H/O Emblems

Lots of used parts


G-Body Cars for Sale

- ------------------------------------------------------------------

83 Hurst/Olds Hardtop -- Completely stripped.  Needs Quarters

83 Hurst/Olds T-Tops -- Complete running car, but needs sheetmetal. 
Frame good.

84 Hurst/Olds MoonRoof -- Frame off on a rotisserie, new everything. 
Rebuilt motor and trans.  Needs finishing.


68 Parts for Sale

- ------------------------------------------------------------------

Texas bumper, trunk lid and drivers door, 

442 air cleaners $60 - needs work, $125 - restored, 

442 distributor $120

Misc.


I can bring any of these parts to the Nationals or Quad States.


Please e-mail me off the list.


- -Dan


<fontfamily><param>Courier</param>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dan Williams                      442Much@mchsi.com 

H/OCA Price Watch Advisor         <<Send me the sale price of any
Hurst/Olds>


68 442 Convertible               
http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html

83 Hurst/Olds                     #1649/3001 - Hardtop

83 Hurst/Olds                     #2558/3001 - T-Top

84 Hurst/Olds                     Power Moon Roof</fontfamily><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>

</fontfamily>
- --Apple-Mail-18-660316548--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 16:46:16 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: 455

Mr. Schick.

              I never dreamed I would hear from you; your advise is Golden,
and has been archived in my computer. I have a couple questions; 1. Will I
be able to run pump regular with your formula.2 . On the RPM scale, where
approx. will HP.and Torque  land. A guesstimate from you is perfect enough
for me. I hope to keep this "76" LS 98 coupe a driveable luxury car. Thank
you so very much.
Rick Messenger
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: 455


> > I would
> > like to return this beautiful piece of Detroit iron back to it's more
> > powerful roots. Right now this engine turns out an anemic 218 HP at 375
> ft.
> > lbs. torque.
> > I am a pretty good stock mechanic, but
> > frankly am overwhelmed by all the speed/power stuff, and do not really
> know
> > what is good from what is just ok. I still want to stay with a
carbureted
> > engine, because if something goes wrong "I" can still fix it. I would
like
> > to be able to stick with regular pump gas, and had roughly figured that
> new
> > pistons at 9.5 to 9.75-1 should work. I would like to make it as bullet
> > proof as possible, and intend to install headers and dual pipes.
>
>
> What you need to do is concentrate on the details to make power as opposed
> to using high compression and a big cam. There are ways to do that:
>
> 1) Block = complete blueprint including in order: align bore the crank
> mains, decking block parallel to the new crank centerline, bore block
> perpendicular to crank centerline, final hone done on a Sunnen Cylinder
King
> or equivalent which will also be perpendicular to crank centerline, and
> measure to +/-0.001" the deck height, i.e. the distance from the crank
> centerline to the block deck head surface.
> 2) Engine Oiling = run 0.0035" clearance on the mains and 0.0025" on the
> rods. Use full oil groove main bearings with the bottom half of #1 main
> being solid without a groove. Rod side clearance is 0.018". Thoroughly
> grind, deburr, and polish the inside of the block and heads. Open up all
oil
> drain back holes to maximum size, with special attention to the interface
of
> head and block. Paint the entire inside of the heads and block with
Glyptal
> red electric motor paint. Throw away the sheet metal baffle over the
> lifters. Now, the oil will race back to the pan. Use the high volume
Melling
> oil pump that has provision for bolting the oil pickup to the pump body.
Use
> either appropriate Milodon bolt-onto-the-oil-pump oil pickup that goes
with
> either the Milodon 7 or 8 quart oil pan. You're going to use a Milodon 7
or
> 8 quart pan anyway. Use either the original W30 windage tray set or the
> Milodon windage tray for an Olds. Use a very good oil cooler. Use 40
weight
> or 15/40 Shell Rotella oil or 20/50 Mobil 1 synthetic. Port out the oil
> passage volume in the #5 main cap below where the oil pump sits. Go in
with
> a good carbide 3/8" diameter burr with a hemi-sphere tip and open up the
> passage and smooth away all sharp angles and twists and turns. You want
the
> oil to shoot through the passage in the main cap in the same way Gen.
George
> Patton said he wanted to see U.S. Troopers moving
> through German resistance, "Like s**t through a goose."
> 3) Heads = use a stainless steel 2.0" intake and a stainless steel 1.75"
> exhaust, swirl polished (S.I. Industries). Install hardened valve seats
and
> open up the exhaust port and valve pocket for the larger exhaust valve.
> Polish the valve pockets. Leave intake passages rough, but polish the
> exhaust passages. CC and equalize the combustion chambers and polish the
> combustion chambers to a very high luster.
> 4) Rods = either use the original 455 6.735" rods or use 425 7.0" rods for
a
> long rod engine with more torque and better breathing via increased
> volumetric efficiency. Your choice. Whichever you do, have the rods
resized
> to exact center-to-center length and install ARP rod bolts, polish the rod
> side beams to baby soft smooth and shotpeen to relieve stress. Install
> bronze oillite bushings in the pin bore sized to a 0.927" piston pin.
Drill
> a hole in the end of the rod to help get oil to the pin.
> 5) Crank = match stroke on all rod pins. ?Thoroughly cross drill the crank
> main journals. Chamfer all oiling holes. Grind the crank
> 10/10, even if it doesn't need it, so that each main and rod journal can
be
> radiused an extra 0.010". Clevite 77 bearings for an Olds already have
extra
> chamfer on the edges to accommodate extra journal radius. Polish crank.
> 6) Pistons = use a custom designed and manufactured forged aluminum
piston.
> By using the new precise deck height of the block, the combustion chamber
> CCs, the new center-to-center length of the rods used, the new exact
stroke
> value, and the chosen 9.5 compression ratio, design your new ultra
> lightweight pure flattop pistons and use 0.927" short pins instead of the
> stock 0.980" long pins. The piston pins will now be retained with pin
locks
> instead of being press fit. Your new full floating piston pins are worth
> about 5 HP from decreased friction. (Remember the details.)
> 7) I would use an Offy 360 Equa-Flow single quad highrise intake manifold
> with an Edelbrock/Carter 750 or 800 CFM AFB with electric choke.
> 8) Cam and valve train = use Crane cam #803901 H-260-2 POWERMAX HYDRAULIC
> with Crane's kit. Use full roller rocker arms, Harlan Sharp billet being
the
> best or the Crane billet. Use pushrod guide plates from Comp Cams and
5/16"
> pushrods from Smith Brothers.
> 9) Ignition = MSD billet distributor with a total mechanical advance of
28°
> @ 3000 rpm. With 8° added to the crank, total timing is 36° @ 3000 rpm.
Use
> a MSD 6A ignition module and Blaster coil. Use Taylor Spiro-Pro ignition
> wires, at minimum.
> 10) Exhaust system = unfortunately, Hooker makes headers for a '75, but
not
> a '76. Your best bet would be to get a pair of W30 WZ exhaust manifolds
and
> use them. Run 2.5" exhaust pipes back to good (Flowmaster) free flowing
> baffle type mufflers and 2.5" tailpipes. Seriously consider having the
> tailpipes as short as possible, like exiting right behind the rear wheels.
> Shorter is better for the tailpipes. Use either a "H" or "X" crossover on
> the exhaust pipes placed at the cool exhaust point.
>
> At the crank, you could develop an honest 400 HP with 450 pounds of torque
> with the above combination.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:35:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Scott G." <boiler77_81@yahoo.com>
Subject: Remote mirror bezel for 70 Sport Mirror

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I need a remote mirror bezel for a 70 Sport Mirror. Was this bezel used on anything other than a 70 Sport Mirror? Does anyone have one they are willing to part with?

		
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<DIV>I need a remote mirror bezel for a 70 Sport Mirror. Was this bezel used on anything other than a 70 Sport Mirror? Does anyone have one they are willing to part with?</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 22:29:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fellman <frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: 455

- --0-790643260-1092806971=:98471
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Soooo, Bruce... 'splain to us about the K&N diesel air filter--
what dimensions are we talkin' about here?  14" x 4"?  Larger?
 
 tia...              Phantom455
=============================================
  
bcroe@juno.com wrote:

To get the max return from minimum investment, you 
need a really good crossover exhaust . And a good 
air cleaner, I use K & N diesel unit. 

<snip>

- --0-790643260-1092806971=:98471
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV><BR>Soooo, Bruce... 'splain to us about the&nbsp;K&amp;N <EM>diesel</EM> air filter--</DIV>
<DIV>what dimensions are we talkin' about here?&nbsp; 14" x 4"?&nbsp; Larger?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;tia...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Phantom455</DIV>
<DIV>=============================================</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR><B><I>bcroe@juno.com</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
<P>To get the max return from minimum investment, you <BR>need a really good crossover exhaust . And a good <BR>air cleaner, I use K &amp; N diesel unit. </P>
<P>&lt;snip&gt;</P></BLOCKQUOTE>
- --0-790643260-1092806971=:98471--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:35:18 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Remote mirror bezel for 70 Sport Mirror

- -------------------------------1092825318
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

i have a bezel for a 71 -2 
don;t know if there is a difference ..........
jeff 

- -------------------------------1092825318
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>i have a bezel for a 71 -2 </DIV>
<DIV>don;t know if there is a difference ..........</DIV>
<DIV>jeff </DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1092825318--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:36:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Scott G." <boiler77_81@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Remote mirror bezel for 70 Sport Mirror

- --0-397318192-1092836180=:22359
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Thanks, I have one from a 71. It is not the same.

OldsGuyGA@aol.com wrote:i have a bezel for a 71 -2 
don;t know if there is a difference ..........
jeff 


		
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<DIV>Thanks, I have one from a 71. It is not the same.<BR><BR><B><I>OldsGuyGA@aol.com</I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR>
<DIV>i have a bezel for a 71 -2 </DIV>
<DIV>don;t know if there is a difference ..........</DIV>
<DIV>jeff </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/mobile/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo">Take Yahoo! Mail with you!</a> Get it on your mobile phone.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 07:45:43 -0600
From: eric <aksoe1@sasktel.net>
Subject: Newer Quadrojet Kit

OK, I'm semi-new to Carb fixing, and I've read all the FAQ's and tuning 
guides, but I still have some questions.  If their is a good site with 
these answered, please shoot me their.

Question 1:
I've had the Carb back off 3 times.  Every Time the Primary rods are 
pulled all the way down, and require a bit of wiggling to get them 
pulled upwards.  Is this not wrong, should they be sprung up whenever 
the Car is not running ????  If so, how does one fix that ?  Carb has 
been cleaned, but no Carb Acid (getting some today to soak it).

Question 2:
Ahead of the piston that Pulls the primary rods down is a screwed in 
piece that doesn't exist on my older Carbs (this is a mid 80s carb).  
Their is a pin on the Primary Rod Piston, so I'm wondering how far in 
one screws this thing, as it looks like it might be able to stop the 
primary rods from going down too far.  Currently I screwed it in until 
it was tight ??

Thanx for any Help/URL's anyone can offer !!!

Eric Aksomitis

BTW, Carb is a mid-80's carb on a 71 Cutlass, as it already has the 
TH2004R throttle linkage.  If their is a place to buy that and use an 
older Carb, that would also be a plausible solution.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 10:08:00 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FYA: AWAITING AGENT'S PAYMENT DETAILS.

>From: james cole <carlinkautos2004@yahoo.com>
>To: Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: AWAITING AGENT'S PAYMENT DETAILS.
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:57:43 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Dear Chris,
>
>I have seen your mail. i believe that you should understand that this is 
>business and not a child's play.
==============
You insult me, sir! May the fleas of 1,000 camels infest your armpits!
You have entrusted me with several thousand dollars, and the fate of a very 
valuable RACING ENGINE is at stake; it is clear that this is not just any 
game.



Your delay in the past has caused me so much problems here already. As i 
told you earlier the person who made this purchase has other ORDERS that he 
had with me and is threatening to withdraw everything.
================
- -MY- Delay? It took you almost 2 weeks to get the money to me, dingbat! 
Meanwhile I turned down several CASH offers for the RACING ENGINE. You had 
better apologize for your arrogant tone if you ever want to see your RACING 
ENGINE. I might just give up on you and send all  your money right back. I 
have the cash to do so, as I cashed the check yesterday.



>They had instructed that their balance money be sent to their agent who 
>will be making arrangements for pick-up / shipping all the goods that thay 
>are importing to Europe.  They have complained for too long and have 
>waited, as i have always pleaded and explained to them that we had to wait 
>for their check to clear. >I had a serious arguement with the customer 
>yersteday over this, and we contacted one of our banks here to clearify the 
>issue as regards how long cashier check should clear in the bank.
=================
Yes, exactly, we must ensure that the check you sent me is good and valid. 
That might take 2 to 3 weeks.



>This has taken too long and they decide to cancel the whole arrangement if 
>the payment is not made the their agent as they had instructed by tomorrow. 
>because the agent may just have to leave anytime from now.
=================
That's a fascinating story, but I do not see how it affects me. I am bound 
to wait until the check has been proven valid before I can act further.


>
>Please go and make the payment of their extra balance money via moneygram 
>or western union to their agent as they have instructed. Below is the 
>agent's details that you need to make the transfer.
>
>NAME - CHARLES. C. HARRIS
>
>ADDRESS - 702 N Sam Houston Parkway East,
>Houston 77060, Texas USA.
>
>Please do this today and forward the details to the agent via the agent's 
>email. I will be awaiting your soonest response.
>JAMES
==================
I will get back to you as soon as I know more. Probably right after the Olds 
National meet, first of September or so.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.

_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 10:11:28 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FYA: STILL AWAITING YOUR RESPONSE.

>From: james cole <carlinkautos2004@yahoo.com>
>To: Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: STILL AWAITING YOUR RESPONSE.
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 15:04:13 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Dear Witt,
==================
Again you insult me, sir!
I told you before that only my closest friends refer to me as "Witt"
You hardly qualify. Apologize at once, or we will not be doing business!



>I need you get in touch with me. I have been calling your phone all 
>through, and nobody's picking up the line. Please do back to me, as my 
>customer had been on my neck all through today. I await your soonest  
>response.
>
>Thanks.
==================
I am very busy preparing the RACING ENGINE for shipment, renovating the 
lower bathroom, and fitting the servants' quarters with hot and cold running 
Bourbon. Please be patient, I am not always near the phone.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 14:44:04 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Newer Quadrojet Kit

>OK, I'm semi-new to Carb fixing, and I've read all the FAQ's and tuning 
>guides, but I still have some questions.  If there is a good site with 
>these answered, please shoot me there.

Didn't some guy write an illustrated book on rebuilding the Quadrajet? I'd 
heard it was really good, although I never needed to track down a copy 
myself. Maybe someone else here has a copy or knows about it.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 11:08:05 -0400
From: "Joe" <w30442@zoominternet.net>
Subject: Re: Newer Quadrojet Kit

Andy,
Try this site. It is about Buicks but they used Quadrajets.
Joe
http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/carbs.htm




> >OK, I'm semi-new to Carb fixing, and I've read all the FAQ's and tuning 
> >guides, but I still have some questions.  If there is a good site with 
> >these answered, please shoot me there.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 08:39:55 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: Newer Quadrojet Kit

You use a little crocus cloth to get the gook, sometimes baked on, off the
power piston exterior. It's like sandpapering only less grit. 


Cheers,
cf 


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 6:46 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Newer Quadrojet Kit

OK, I'm semi-new to Carb fixing, and I've read all the FAQ's and tuning
guides, but I still have some questions.  If their is a good site with these
answered, please shoot me their.

Question 1:
I've had the Carb back off 3 times.  Every Time the Primary rods are pulled
all the way down, and require a bit of wiggling to get them pulled upwards.
Is this not wrong, should they be sprung up whenever the Car is not running
????  If so, how does one fix that ?  Carb has been cleaned, but no Carb
Acid (getting some today to soak it).

Question 2:
Ahead of the piston that Pulls the primary rods down is a screwed in piece
that doesn't exist on my older Carbs (this is a mid 80s carb).  
Their is a pin on the Primary Rod Piston, so I'm wondering how far in one
screws this thing, as it looks like it might be able to stop the primary
rods from going down too far.  Currently I screwed it in until it was tight
??

Thanx for any Help/URL's anyone can offer !!!

Eric Aksomitis

BTW, Carb is a mid-80's carb on a 71 Cutlass, as it already has the TH2004R
throttle linkage.  If their is a place to buy that and use an older Carb,
that would also be a plausible solution.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 12:36:33 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Newer Quadrojet Kit

Look what I've found on the net:
APT is the adjustable part throttle.  The carb in the picture should have a
metal pin on the front of the power piston.  The pin contacts an adjustment
screw in the main casting.  Most of the later metering rods have a tapered
second step.  By raising/lowering the adjustment screw you will have fine
control of the part throttle mixtures.
from the : http://www.mako.com.au/buick/html/qjet_tips.htm
Matt

> You use a little crocus cloth to get the gook, sometimes baked on, off the
> power piston exterior. It's like sandpapering only less grit.
>
>
> Cheers,
> cf
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of eric
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 6:46 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Newer Quadrojet Kit
>
> OK, I'm semi-new to Carb fixing, and I've read all the FAQ's and tuning
> guides, but I still have some questions.  If their is a good site with
these
> answered, please shoot me their.
>
> Question 1:
> I've had the Carb back off 3 times.  Every Time the Primary rods are
pulled
> all the way down, and require a bit of wiggling to get them pulled
upwards.
> Is this not wrong, should they be sprung up whenever the Car is not
running
> ????  If so, how does one fix that ?  Carb has been cleaned, but no Carb
> Acid (getting some today to soak it).
>
> Question 2:
> Ahead of the piston that Pulls the primary rods down is a screwed in piece
> that doesn't exist on my older Carbs (this is a mid 80s carb).
> Their is a pin on the Primary Rod Piston, so I'm wondering how far in one
> screws this thing, as it looks like it might be able to stop the primary
> rods from going down too far.  Currently I screwed it in until it was
tight
> ??
>
> Thanx for any Help/URL's anyone can offer !!!
>
> Eric Aksomitis
>
> BTW, Carb is a mid-80's carb on a 71 Cutlass, as it already has the
TH2004R
> throttle linkage.  If their is a place to buy that and use an older Carb,
> that would also be a plausible solution.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 14:51:43 -0400
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: dash pad question

Chris S. et al,

I'm a little late on this one, but thanks for the clarification on the dash
pad/kick panel situation...I get it now.

>You'll have to overnight my cookie so it doesn't get stale  :-)))))

Unfortunately, I ate the cookie but could upgrade you to a box of Cheez-its!
:)

Thanks again,

 ~ Dan

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4992
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