
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, August 21 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4995



Re: FW: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
Re: comp check
Re: FW: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
RE: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
Official Cutlass website
Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
Re: Official Cutlass website
Re: Official Cutlass website
Part needed
Re: Stroke calculations
Hotel reservation available for nationals
Re: Official Cutlass website
Re: Official Cutlass website
Re: comp check
Re: Stroke calculations
Re: Official Cutlass website
Re: Official Cutlass website
UNBOUNCE: 1976 Delta 88  tail lamp lens
UNBOUNCE: serpentine belt conversion
Syntehetic fluids
Re: Syntehetic fluids
Re: Official Cutlass website
Re: Stroke calculations
Re: Syntehetic fluids

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 21:36:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: FW: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

On Fri, 20 Aug 2004, Christopher Witt wrote:
> >From: "Allaine Palomer" <hyperflex@energysuspension.com>
> >To: <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: FW: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
> >Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 11:25:25 -0500
> >
> >SOUNDS LIKE YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF...YOU ARE RIGHT ON...YOU DO WANT TO GREASE
> >THESE ON ASSY AND PERIODICALLY DEPENDING ON YOUR CLIMATE!!THANKS FOR YOUR
> >INTEREST IN ENERGY!!

So, how would one grease these periodically?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 18:18:35 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: comp check

Also remember to have the throttle opened fully when cranking.


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2004 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: comp check


> thanks Milton....
> It's better to remove all the spark plugs so the engine will spin fairly
> free. The reading will be more real-world.
> 
> john
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 19:27:28 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

> So, how would one grease these periodically?


You can't, normally. That's why one should use the black polyurethane, which
is impregnated with graphite. That graphite content is enough to lube the
polyurethane for about a decade or 100K miles, whichever comes first. The
red or other colors of polyurethane bushings for other manufacturers are
just pretty, but will not last as long as the graphite impregnated black.

There is a way to continually lube the polyurethane bushings, just like
Edelbrock does it on their rear control arms, in addition to the very
liberal amounts of silicone lube applied during assembly. Simply drill and
tap a hole through the side of a polyurethane bushing for a grease zerk, in
a location one can get to once the component is installed on the car. I
didn't do it. I'm not sure if it's necessary.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 20:29:00 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

?Chris,

I didn't know this was going to be an ego contest and that you always have
to be right, or worry something until you are proved right.

You still didn't make it.

I don't care how others wish to install rubber type/OEM factory type
suspension bushings. However, I can guarantee that I will ***never***
install rubber type/OEM factory suspension bushings in a way the bushing
center sleeve is locked in the frame mount and the rubber torsional
resistance contributes to the load carrying dynamics that should be solely
controlled by the springs and shocks, at least not in a vehicle that I want
to corner and handle correctly at high speed. You and Energy Suspension just
said it. Rubber suspension bushings are bonded to their center steel sleeve.
Polyurethane bushings rotate on their center steel sleeve, and the
polyurethane simply absorbs the road shocks to the control arms and the
mounting bolts. Global West's Del-A-Lum bushings work the same way, because
that's the only way that makes any engineering sense. That's exactly the way
the rubber OEM factory suspension bushings should work from the designer's
drawing pad and the assemblyline, but they don't, until they have a few
miles on them and the center sleeve starts to slip between the ears in the
frame mount. But that's not good either. After the rubber bushing sleeves
loosen up a little in their frame
mount, or the torsional resistance of the rubber begins to fail, the
cornering feel of the vehicle changes, mostly for the worst because it's
uneven, and that's just not good. The rubber OEM factory suspension bushings
work great to give a smooth, flowing, cloud-like ride, but they aren't worth
crap for cornering, exactly because of the way they are designed and
mounted.

30 years ago, we didn't have polyurethane. All we had were a couple of
companies who would make a few selected suspension bushings using harder
durometer rubber, like Lakewood offered,
or to drive about a dozen 6 penny nails into the stock OEM factory rubber
suspension bushings to firm them up, but at a much reduced life expectancy.
The Lakewood rear lower control arms I
used on Thunder from 1970 to 2001 used much harder durometer rubber
bushings. Those Lakewood rear lower control arms were specified to be bolted
in by using a locknut on the attaching crossbolt. They were not torqued at
the factory 65 foot pounds. Why? Because Lakewood, and everyone else who
knew rubber bushing suspensions back then wanted the bushings to pivot on
the crossbolt, without any rubber torque resistance into the suspension,
even on a pure drag car. That resistance could interfere with rear
suspension launch set, whether it be squatting down to place weight transfer
to the rear tires or torque lifting the body and frame up to shove the rear
tires into the pavement via opposite rear spring reaction. The exact same
thing applied to a roundy-round or road race car. ***No*** interference from
rubber bushing resistance torque was desired at any time or any place.

On my '67 Delta 88 2-door, a weight monster equivalent to a German Tiger 1
tank if there ever was one, I purposely spread the frame mounts for all of
the rubber suspension bushings, front and rear, just enough so they would
pivot freely. The attaching crossbolts were locked with NyLoc nuts, so the
bolts could pivot. The center steel sleeves of the rubber suspension
bushings *were
not locked between the frame mount ears*. Then, with the new sway bar
bushings, new MOOG springs, and the Gabriel Strider 3-position shocks, my
Delta could corner extremely well, even
for a multi-ton monster, because the suspension could move freely and
respond unequivocally to both dynamic suspension forces controlled by the
springs and shocks and by driver input. I had
her from 1972 to 1983, 120,000 miles. She didn't wear out any attaching
crossbolts and didn't wear out any holes in the frame mounts. I did replace
several front upper suspension bushings
due to age, using the air chisel technique. No rears ever needed to be
replaced.

'62-'64 fullsize Fords had an even more interesting suspension reaction. Due
to their leaf rear springs and unique front end geometry, the trick to get
one of these Fords to corner was to use standard front coil springs and
install worn out shocks on all 4 corners. That technique caused extreme
weight transfer directly to the corner that needed it, along with proper
driver input, to
establish rapid corner transit. On 1/8 or 3/8 mile ovals, the constant left
turns were further controlled by tire size stagger.

So the bottom line is, I don't care whether the suspension bushing is
standard rubber, standard rubber with 6 penny nails driven into them, hard
durometer rubber, or polyurethane, I want those
bushings to pivot freely with the control arm around the attaching crossbolt
bolt, however that's going to be accomplished. The bushing is to be used
only for absorbing direct road shocks to the
attaching crossbolt and the control arm, period. You can do your own
suspension stuff in any manner you feel is appropriate. I don't care.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 21:57:00 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

Milton,
Well argued. Good history. Sorry there seems to be a bit of a rub (!) here,
but in any event many thanks for this information below. Been on the list I
don't know how long and over the years I've collected and kept a lot of good
information, but this is right in there. Great stuff.

Can you explain why bushings, at least on my big cars, seem to eventually
wear an egg shaped oblong hole in the A-arm and eventually need tack
welding? I've had this on both my big 66 oldses. The tack weld was the
recommended fix to stop the clunking in the suspension. It's my cars that
seem to eat lower A-arms when I put new lower ball joints in -- a 66 98
convertible and a 66 Starfire... 


Cheers,
cf 


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Infinite Space
Systems, Inc.
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2004 8:29 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

?Chris,

I didn't know this was going to be an ego contest and that you always have
to be right, or worry something until you are proved right.

You still didn't make it.

I don't care how others wish to install rubber type/OEM factory type
suspension bushings. However, I can guarantee that I will ***never***
install rubber type/OEM factory suspension bushings in a way the bushing
center sleeve is locked in the frame mount and the rubber torsional
resistance contributes to the load carrying dynamics that should be solely
controlled by the springs and shocks, at least not in a vehicle that I want
to corner and handle correctly at high speed. You and Energy Suspension just
said it. Rubber suspension bushings are bonded to their center steel sleeve.
Polyurethane bushings rotate on their center steel sleeve, and the
polyurethane simply absorbs the road shocks to the control arms and the
mounting bolts. Global West's Del-A-Lum bushings work the same way, because
that's the only way that makes any engineering sense. That's exactly the way
the rubber OEM factory suspension bushings should work from the designer's
drawing pad and the assemblyline, but they don't, until they have a few
miles on them and the center sleeve starts to slip between the ears in the
frame mount. But that's not good either. After the rubber bushing sleeves
loosen up a little in their frame mount, or the torsional resistance of the
rubber begins to fail, the cornering feel of the vehicle changes, mostly for
the worst because it's uneven, and that's just not good. The rubber OEM
factory suspension bushings work great to give a smooth, flowing, cloud-like
ride, but they aren't worth crap for cornering, exactly because of the way
they are designed and mounted.

30 years ago, we didn't have polyurethane. All we had were a couple of
companies who would make a few selected suspension bushings using harder
durometer rubber, like Lakewood offered, or to drive about a dozen 6 penny
nails into the stock OEM factory rubber suspension bushings to firm them up,
but at a much reduced life expectancy.
The Lakewood rear lower control arms I
used on Thunder from 1970 to 2001 used much harder durometer rubber
bushings. Those Lakewood rear lower control arms were specified to be bolted
in by using a locknut on the attaching crossbolt. They were not torqued at
the factory 65 foot pounds. Why? Because Lakewood, and everyone else who
knew rubber bushing suspensions back then wanted the bushings to pivot on
the crossbolt, without any rubber torque resistance into the suspension,
even on a pure drag car. That resistance could interfere with rear
suspension launch set, whether it be squatting down to place weight transfer
to the rear tires or torque lifting the body and frame up to shove the rear
tires into the pavement via opposite rear spring reaction. The exact same
thing applied to a roundy-round or road race car. ***No*** interference from
rubber bushing resistance torque was desired at any time or any place.

On my '67 Delta 88 2-door, a weight monster equivalent to a German Tiger 1
tank if there ever was one, I purposely spread the frame mounts for all of
the rubber suspension bushings, front and rear, just enough so they would
pivot freely. The attaching crossbolts were locked with NyLoc nuts, so the
bolts could pivot. The center steel sleeves of the rubber suspension
bushings *were not locked between the frame mount ears*. Then, with the new
sway bar bushings, new MOOG springs, and the Gabriel Strider 3-position
shocks, my Delta could corner extremely well, even for a multi-ton monster,
because the suspension could move freely and respond unequivocally to both
dynamic suspension forces controlled by the springs and shocks and by driver
input. I had her from 1972 to 1983, 120,000 miles. She didn't wear out any
attaching crossbolts and didn't wear out any holes in the frame mounts. I
did replace several front upper suspension bushings due to age, using the
air chisel technique. No rears ever needed to be replaced.

'62-'64 fullsize Fords had an even more interesting suspension reaction. Due
to their leaf rear springs and unique front end geometry, the trick to get
one of these Fords to corner was to use standard front coil springs and
install worn out shocks on all 4 corners. That technique caused extreme
weight transfer directly to the corner that needed it, along with proper
driver input, to establish rapid corner transit. On 1/8 or 3/8 mile ovals,
the constant left turns were further controlled by tire size stagger.

So the bottom line is, I don't care whether the suspension bushing is
standard rubber, standard rubber with 6 penny nails driven into them, hard
durometer rubber, or polyurethane, I want those bushings to pivot freely
with the control arm around the attaching crossbolt bolt, however that's
going to be accomplished. The bushing is to be used only for absorbing
direct road shocks to the attaching crossbolt and the control arm, period.
You can do your own suspension stuff in any manner you feel is appropriate.
I don't care.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 23:25:11 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: Official Cutlass website

Very interesting: www.Cutlass.com
Sad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 00:06:29 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

> Can you explain why bushings, at least on my big cars, seem to eventually
> wear an egg shaped oblong hole in the A-arm and eventually need tack
> welding? I've had this on both my big 66 oldses. The tack weld was the
> recommended fix to stop the clunking in the suspension. It's my cars that
> seem to eat lower A-arms when I put new lower ball joints in -- a 66 98
> convertible and a 66 Starfire...


I'm honestly not sure. I've heard of the problem before. It didn't happen on
my 2 '67 Deltas, one of which I had for only a short time. The long term one
didn't develop the problem. It could be that my suspension mods prevented
it, but again, I'm not sure. I've been told that '65-'70 big car suspension
geometry leaves a lot to be desired, but I don't have any hard evidence of
such. Some people believe '64-'70 A-body suspension systems are wrong, but I
won't agree to that.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 00:09:29 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

I got this:

"Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".

Suggestions:

Check your spelling.
Try more general words.
Try different words that mean the same thing."


Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2004 11:25 PM
Subject: Official Cutlass website


> Very interesting: www.Cutlass.com
> Sad.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 00:27:49 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

> I got this:
> 
> "Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
> We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".
> 

I believe that's his point. It is interesting and surprising that a site with this url doesn't exist.

Kevin 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 07:10:13 -0400
From: "Joe" <w30442@zoominternet.net>
Subject: Part needed

Anyone have a 442/Cutlass 1970/71/72 4BBl air cleaner they want to sell?
Please email me privatley.
Thanks
 Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 09:47:43 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Stroke calculations

> Dave,
>
> When the piston is at the top of the bore, the top of the piston is at 0
> TDC. There's no distance. What are you trying to do?

Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC. Basically, set
timing with a dial indicator gage.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 09:29:11 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@mchsi.com>
Subject: Hotel reservation available for nationals

- --Apple-Mail-126-974717783
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain;
	delsp=yes;
	charset=US-ASCII;
	format=flowed

I have one extra room at the host hotel (Wed - Sun) at the group rate  
of $104.  Hit me off the list if anyone is interested.

- -Dan
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
- ----------
Dan Williams                      442Much@mchsi.com
H/OCA Price Watch Advisor         <Send me the sale price of any  
Hurst/Olds>

68 442 Convertible                 
http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html
83 Hurst/Olds                     #1649/3001 - Hardtop
83 Hurst/Olds                     #2558/3001 - T-Top
84 Hurst/Olds                     Power Moon Roof

- --Apple-Mail-126-974717783
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/enriched;
	charset=US-ASCII

I have one extra room at the host hotel (Wed - Sun) at the group rate
of $104.  Hit me off the list if anyone is interested.


- -Dan

<fontfamily><param>Courier</param>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dan Williams                      442Much@mchsi.com 

H/OCA Price Watch Advisor         <<Send me the sale price of any
Hurst/Olds>


68 442 Convertible               
http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html

83 Hurst/Olds                     #1649/3001 - Hardtop

83 Hurst/Olds                     #2558/3001 - T-Top

84 Hurst/Olds                     Power Moon Roof</fontfamily><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>

</fontfamily>
- --Apple-Mail-126-974717783--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 07:31:35 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

It exists. The domain is owned by General Motors.

M

At 12:27 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, Kevin wrote:

> > I got this:
> >
> > "Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
> > We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".
> >
>
>I believe that's his point. It is interesting and surprising that a site 
>with this url doesn't exist.
>
>Kevin

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 10:00:27 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

Mark,

What's the correct URL? I couldn't get it to come up.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website


> It exists. The domain is owned by General Motors.
>
> M
>
> At 12:27 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, Kevin wrote:
>
> > > I got this:
> > >
> > > "Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
> > > We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".
> > >
> >
> >I believe that's his point. It is interesting and surprising that a site
> >with this url doesn't exist.
> >
> >Kevin
>
> Mark Mullins
> Tucson, Az
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 18:09:00 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: comp check

At 09:16 AM 8/20/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>this may sound stupid, but do you do a comp check with all the 
>plugs removed, or can you do it one at a time, and what makes 
>the difference?

Doesn't make any difference although removing all the plugs makes less work
for the starter so you don't drain the battery as much, as quickly. Just
rember if you have HEI, to disconnect the large red wire to the BATT
terminal of the distributor. Open spark plug leads on an HEI can cause
internal damage.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 11:46:43 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Stroke calculations

> Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC. Basically, set
> timing with a dial indicator gage.


Unfortunately, the piston changes speed, and therefore distance traveled,
during the complete piston stroke cycle. At TDC, there's even a short dwell
time when the piston is stopped and the rod is changing direction from up to
down. So, the speed isn't constant and that makes calculating the piston
position at 30 BTDC very interesting to determine.

I just looked in my copy of Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets. I didn't find
anything. Of course, if the engine was apart, with the short block mounted
on an engine stand, it would be easy to find out. Just rotate the harmonic
balancer with a timing tape to 30 BTDC and measure the distance from the
piston top to the block deck. But calculating it, I don't know.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 11:53:47 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

There is no web page.  GM owns the domain and leaves it idle.  I only did a 
whois search on the URL and found it was owned by GM.

M

At 10:00 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, Milton wrote:
>Mark,
>
>What's the correct URL? I couldn't get it to come up.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 7:31 AM
>Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website
>
>
> > It exists. The domain is owned by General Motors.
> >
> > M
> >
> > At 12:27 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, Kevin wrote:
> >
> > > > I got this:
> > > >
> > > > "Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
> > > > We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".
> > > >
> > >
> > >I believe that's his point. It is interesting and surprising that a site
> > >with this url doesn't exist.
> > >
> > >Kevin
> >
> > Mark Mullins
> > Tucson, Az
> >

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 13:12:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

OK. I now see what you meant.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website


> There is no web page.  GM owns the domain and leaves it idle.  I only did
a
> whois search on the URL and found it was owned by GM.
>
> M
>
> At 10:00 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, Milton wrote:
> >Mark,
> >
> >What's the correct URL? I couldn't get it to come up.
> >
> >Milton Schick
> >1964 442 Cutlass
> >imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mark Mullins" <mark@marineaviation.org>
> >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 7:31 AM
> >Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website
> >
> >
> > > It exists. The domain is owned by General Motors.
> > >
> > > M
> > >
> > > At 12:27 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, Kevin wrote:
> > >
> > > > > I got this:
> > > > >
> > > > > "Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
> > > > > We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >I believe that's his point. It is interesting and surprising that a
site
> > > >with this url doesn't exist.
> > > >
> > > >Kevin
> > >
> > > Mark Mullins
> > > Tucson, Az
> > >
>
> Mark Mullins
> Tucson, Az
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 17:36:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Delta 88  tail lamp lens

Yves is having trouble posting; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "Vertech" <vertech@sympatico.ca>
Subject: 1976 Delta 88  tail lamp lens

Hello everyone !

Last morning I made a *very* bad move when going on reverse with my '76 =
Delta 88...  We had some near-freezing temperatures up here in Quebec =
(yes, it's true, altough I could not believe it...); so all the Olds' =
windows were frosted when I turned on the engine at 5:30 A.M.  When I =
went on reverse to get out the alley I forgot my '75 Nova was parked =
nearby, and my rear right tail lamp lens lightly -but surely- smashed =
into the Nova's left rear fender...

The Olds ain't quite damaged (follow the links below), however if any of =
you have a right rear tail lamp lens for sale, please let me know...

http://www3.sympatico.ca/nova/Olds/r_light1.jpg
http://www3.sympatico.ca/nova/Olds/r_light2.jpg
http://www3.sympatico.ca/nova/Olds/r_light3.jpg


Thanks and keep the mailing list (and your Olds) alive ! !


Yves Lafreniere
1976 Delta 88 Royale [455]

vertech@sympatico.ca

La Tuque, Quebec 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 17:38:43 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: serpentine belt conversion

The"H*LP" word... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   jp <limitedattention@mac.com>
Subject: H*lp needed for serpentine belt conversion

Hi..

I have a '72 Cutlass Convertible which I am customizing somewhat so 
that "original" and "correct" are not an issue

I'm replacing the 350 with a 455.

I've removed the air conditioning and I'm replacing the old 
alternator with one that's 140 amp.

I'm moving the alternator to the passenger side and was thinking that 
it might be a good idea to use a serpentine belt system.

Has anybody tried this?

Is it a good idea?

If yes to the above how do I go about getting the correct parts and a 
sense of how to set it up?

Are their kits etc?

Thanks in advance.

jp

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 16:43:34 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Syntehetic fluids

Is it smart to use synthetuc fluids in an axle or other place when it's had
fossil oil in it for 130k miles?
I;m a truck driver and they used to warn us not to switch over to synthetics
unless the truck always had them or it would leak at the seals. Now I have
never heard this anyplace else and this was back when synthetics first came
out so there was alot of rumors flying around about them.

Allen Schwartz
Alpine Paving Services, LLC
mycj@tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 16:28:18 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Syntehetic fluids

Switching over to a synthetic would be fine and not cause any problem.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
To: "olds list" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 2:43 PM
Subject: Syntehetic fluids


> Is it smart to use synthetuc fluids in an axle or other place when it's
had
> fossil oil in it for 130k miles?
> I;m a truck driver and they used to warn us not to switch over to
synthetics
> unless the truck always had them or it would leak at the seals. Now I have
> never heard this anyplace else and this was back when synthetics first
came
> out so there was alot of rumors flying around about them.
>
> Allen Schwartz
> Alpine Paving Services, LLC
> mycj@tds.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 23:47:02 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Official Cutlass website

At 12:27 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> I got this:
>> 
>> "Search the web for: "http://www.cutlass.com/"
>> We didn't find any Web pages containing "http://www.cutlass.com/".
>> 
>
>I believe that's his point. It is interesting and surprising that a 
>site with this url doesn't exist.

Maybe not; but I got switched to http://www.oldsmobile.com/cutlass/ where
the page said:

"Not Found
The requested object does not exist on this server. The link you followed
is either outdated, inaccurate, or the server has been instructed not to
let you have it."

That likely means that GM still owns www.cutlass.com but due to lack of
GM's interest, they're just holding onto it for the hellofit. Slackers ;o\
;o\  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 00:02:17 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Stroke calculations

At 11:46 AM 8/21/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC. Basically, set
>> timing with a dial indicator gage.
>
>
>Unfortunately, the piston changes speed, and therefore distance traveled,
>during the complete piston stroke cycle. At TDC, there's even a short dwell
>time when the piston is stopped and the rod is changing direction from up to
>down. So, the speed isn't constant and that makes calculating the piston
>position at 30 BTDC very interesting to determine.
>
>I just looked in my copy of Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets. I didn't find
>anything. Of course, if the engine was apart, with the short block mounted
>on an engine stand, it would be easy to find out. Just rotate the harmonic
>balancer with a timing tape to 30 BTDC and measure the distance from the
>piston top to the block deck. But calculating it, I don't know.

It would comprise simple trigonometry although unless yer Einstein, you'd
likely have to draw the whole thing out from crankshaft to piston-top and
block deck, and calculate the appropriate hypotenuse lengths and the like.
Yeah, 'twud be inneresting alright. Only DaveC could come up with something
like this  ;o)))))))))))  

Boy, talk about something to think about while lying in bed, trying to get
to sleep. Definitely better than counting sheep  :o)))))))))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 21:15:15 EDT
From: TJPROD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Syntehetic fluids

- -------------------------------1093137314
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I switched my old F-150 over to synthetic oil at 178,000 miles. I left for  
Texas the next day, I came back 4 days later with a new truck. The old  one 
died down there, backfired and blew out the rear main. All the seals had the  
consistency of a wet marshmallow.
I wouldn't change over, unless I rebuilt whatever I was putting it  into. 
I'm no expert but that was my experience.
 
TJ

- -------------------------------1093137314
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
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e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>I switched my old F-150 over to synthetic oil at 178,000 miles. I left=20=
for=20
Texas the next day, I came back 4 days&nbsp;later&nbsp;with a new truck. The=
 old=20
one died down there, backfired and blew out the rear main. All the seals had=
 the=20
consistency of a wet marshmallow.</DIV>
<DIV>I wouldn't change over, unless&nbsp;I rebuilt whatever I was putting it=
=20
into. </DIV>
<DIV>I'm no expert but that was my experience.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>TJ</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1093137314--

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4995
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