
oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 16 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4952



Re: Engine ID tricks thru VIN derivative stampings
VIN stamp on the block
Welcome back Karl-ter
Re:
dwell meter
Re: dwell meter
'98 Aurora problem
WAF Assembly Plant code    Ever hear of this before???????
Re: dwell meter
Re: Electric fuel pump install
Re: Electric fuel pump install
dwell meter
Re: Electric fuel pump install
Tires and Rims
Re: Tires and Rims
Re: Tires and Rims
Re: Tires and Rims
Re: Tires and Rims
Re: Tires and Rims
Re: dwell meter
Re: Tires and Rims
R134 conversion of oil?
Re: 34 olds resto
Re: Electric fuel pump install
dwell meter/EMP/clear dis Mr gasket
SX value and performance opinions wanted
cheap #8 heads, 350 crank, 425 engine, etc.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 06:56:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine ID tricks thru VIN derivative stampings

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>George, your 71 455 would be 31R999999, which break down just like I 
stated
>previously, except the R is I'm guessing the Arlington, Texas plant.  
And of
>course this number tells nothing about what car the engine was put in 
or the
>size of the engine.

It starts with 1R, here you go 
http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg

Cheers, George
- ------------------------------
LOL, just as I suspected.  George, look closer at the stamping.  closer.  look to the left of the 1.  I can see a 3.  Do you?  scrap some paint away and look because it's there.  So, there you have it.  George provided the evidence, vin derivative stamping on the engine block does begin with 3, just like I said.
 
In fact I even checked my 68 455 shortblock and it was 38MXXXXXX (I checked it for a different reason)
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
 

		
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<DIV>&gt;George, your 71 455 would be 31R999999, which break down just like I <BR>stated<BR>&gt;previously, except the R is I'm guessing the Arlington, Texas plant.&nbsp; <BR>And of<BR>&gt;course this number tells nothing about what car the engine was put in <BR>or the<BR>&gt;size of the engine.<BR><BR>It starts with 1R, here you go <BR><A href="http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg" target=_blank><FONT color=#003399>http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg</FONT></A><BR><BR>Cheers, George</DIV>
<DIV>------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>LOL, just as I suspected.&nbsp; George, look closer at the stamping.&nbsp; closer.&nbsp; look to the left of the 1.&nbsp; I can see a 3.&nbsp; Do you?&nbsp; scrap some paint away and look because it's there.&nbsp; So, there you have it.&nbsp; George provided the evidence, vin derivative stamping on the engine block does begin with 3, just like I said.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>In fact I even checked my 68 455 shortblock and it was 38MXXXXXX (I checked it for a different reason)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 11:03:19 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: VIN stamp on the block

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 21:06:40 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Engine ID tricks thru VIN derivative stampings

>George, your 71 455 would be 31R999999, which break down just like I stated
>previously, except the R is I'm guessing the Arlington, Texas plant.  And 
>of
>course this number tells nothing about what car the engine was put in or 
>the
>size of the engine.

It starts with 1R, here you go
http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg
=================
George.... are you on dope?
Even with the poorly cleaned surface, a weak dark photo, and my aged 
eyesight, I can distinctly see a "3" before the "1" on that stamped VIN 
derivative. If I had my Photo massaging program that was lost in last week's 
computer rebuild, I could probably stretch the gamma in that pic and bring 
that "3" right on out for all to see. [anyone got an Excel or Photo program 
for sale real cheap?]
   How about we go back, CLEAN that surface with say a file, scratchy pad, 
scotch brite on a angle die grinder, etc., and take a pic with some LIGHT on 
the subject... and see what # appears.



An of course it doesn't tell you what engine size it is, that's what the
casting numbers are for. So, all that is left open, on a 455 is the vehicle
that it came in. That's pretty darn close, if you ask me, for an ID off a
simple stamping and casting.
Cheers, George
============
True for your aRlington block.
An M build block with sufficiently high VIN proves Toro-osity however, at 
least for certain years. That would peg the exact car that it came it.

Don't forget to look at the block drains, too.
Many years, Big Cars used the fwd set of motor mount holes, and therefore 
the aft block drain [and only the aft block drain] was present. Whereas, a 
big block with the aft drain boss undrilled, and the front boss sporting a 
drain plug MUST have been in an A-body.  SB's commonly had both fore and aft 
bolck drains drilled, as it was much more common for a small bloke to find a 
home in either type car.

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get tips for maintaining your PC, notebook accessories and reviews in 
Technology 101. http://special.msn.com/tech/technology101.armx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 11:18:26 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Welcome back Karl-ter

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 02:22:58 -0500
From: Karl Erik Aune <425power@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: dist cap placement/phasing?/vac adv.

Previously, on "This Crazy Ole Hot Rodder".....

<< Take a old cap and drill/melt a hole in the top between #1 post and coil
post.>>

(Ignoring for now that altering an old cap in this manner creates a 
condition
conducive to arcing inside the cap and thereby negating any useful
benefits.....) So, did I miss something, or can anything useful be learned 
from Holy
Distributor Caps Batman?
================
Karl, yer back! Long thyme, no sea!
   I think I owe you a 425 engine, have a nice one on hand right now... 
about to eBay it. No buyers here...
   Anyhow, Uhm, I think the "Holey Distributor cap, Batsman" was just for 
investigatory purposes, not to leave on there whilst running the streets or 
tracks.
  The purpose, which apparently you missed, was to verify that the rotor's 
contact is indeed somehwere in the neighborhood of the cap's contact when 
the spark is proceeding across that gap. Of course, it's SUPPOSED to be 
right exactly there, but, with centrifugal and vacuum advance changing the 
exact timing of the spark [and thus the location of the rotor at the time of 
the spark], whereas the cap remains stationary: the relationship between 
rotor and cap terminal varies.
   As we also know, folks who make parts do not always have [or heed] the 
exact specifications that the manufacturer used. They copy a part, or make 
it as they see fit, and sell them anyhow. Witness the pistons I recently 
bought for a 350. Compression height 0.020" off the factory specs. Why? With 
the head gaskets nowadays being 0.020" thicker also, moving the piston even 
farther down in the bore is ridiculous. Not every block needs a deck trim to 
make a good rebuild. Even those that do, rarely require anything on the 
order of 0.020"- maybe 0.005"



It does sound interesting until one recalls that it is the ignition at plug 
#1
that inductively triggers the timing light strobe.
==========
Trigger the light off whatever wire your new hole is next to, if you wanna 
see what's going on right when that wire fires.



[Pop quiz: How long does a viable plug wire at #1 have to be for spark plug 
#1
to fire immediately AFTER spark plug #8??  Extra credit: Show statistical 
proof
why the results to the previous question is of interest to a vanishingly 
small
segment of the population.]
=================
No kidding, I just had to buy another dwell/ tach meter, the one I bought in 
1980 or so quit working properly. Tough to find one nowadays. Buy-n-sell 
store had the exact same model that I was using, for a nice $6, like new, in 
the box even. Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to know 
how to set points gap correctly when your dewll meter is not available or 
functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]


Tune in next week to find out how effective the Apprehender package ~really~ 
is!
=============
didn't SOM finally take to the grave?

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the latest news, polls and tools in the MSN 2004 Election Guide! 
http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 12:33:55 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re:

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In a message dated 7/15/04 5:07:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,  writes:

> It starts with 1R, here you go 
> http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg

George,
       Sure looks like there is a 3 in front of the 1 on the picture.  Or am 
I hallucinating?
Steve D

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 7/15/04 5:07:53=20=
AM Pacific Daylight Time,&nbsp; writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It starts with 1R, here you go=20=
<BR>
http://www.geocities.com/aigel.geo/vinlocation.jpg</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
George,<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sure looks like there is a 3 in front o=
f the 1 on the picture.&nbsp; Or am I hallucinating?<BR>
Steve D</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 13:10:00 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: dwell meter

(snip) Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to know how 
to set points gap correctly when your dewll meter is not available or 
functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]

No chris you are not the last one to own a dwell meter. Two of my cars 
still have points.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 10:36:40 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: dwell meter

I have a very nice dwell/tach. The '64 Cutlass and the '65 Vista Cruiser use
points. I plan on using a MSD 6A with the point distributor on the Vista
Cruiser. Also, EMP will *not* stop a point distributor engine using a simple
a coil. EMP will take out any electronic ignition, either stock, MSD, etc.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: "olds list" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 10:10 AM
Subject: dwell meter


> (snip) Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to know how
> to set points gap correctly when your dewll meter is not available or
> functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]
>
> No chris you are not the last one to own a dwell meter. Two of my cars
> still have points.
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 14:34:53 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: '98 Aurora problem

Our '98 Aurora recently started to make the turn signal clicking sound when 
the car is started (no turn signals on) and randomly while driving.  Seems 
to sometimes do it when brakes are applied.  My wife just called and said 
it is doing this and also making a "grinding" sound from the dash 
???   Sounds like it is all  related to either turn signals or other 
lights. She said it makes the "GRINDING" sound when  the turn signals are 
on and she hits the brakes.

Anybody have any experience with this?  Sounds like the headlight switch or 
maybe the turn signal stalk.  Oh what fun.

Thanks,

Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 18:08:58 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: WAF Assembly Plant code    Ever hear of this before???????

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Greetings Oldsmobile Rocket Scientists!

I was emailed by Ken  to see if I ever heard of such a cowl tag problem 
before.

here is his email to me,   Please   someone here MUST have the answer.

Thanks

Vinny
68 ho   ho    ho 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

here is the actual picture of my cowl plate.  I you will no doubt observe, 
the date code 06A is correct for the 68 H/O production run, the 940 (black) 
interior trim code is correct, and the Z-Z paint code is correct.  The assembley 
plant code appears to be "WAF," but we all know the literature says it should 
be "LAN" for the Lansing plant.  I called everyone I could think of, read all 
the literature I could find, and searched the internet high and low.  I even 
called the company that used to be Fisher Body to see if I could find someone 
who might know what those letters stand for, but with no success.  The 
information I read on the subject state that the numbers after the assembly plant code 
do not match anything in the VIN or the engine or tranny.  A more minor 
mystery is the Body Style code.  The 336 part is correct because all the bodies used 
from the Lansing plant for the H/Os and 442 all bore the Cutlass body style 
code on the cowl plate.  The part that is the mystery is the 77 part of the 
code.  As we know, the "77"
code represents the club coupe style.  Hurst #335, which is my car (and the 
car this plate is on), is a Holiday Coupe which is code "87."  I talked to a 
representative at the Oldsmobile History Center and told him that I had read on 
the 442 website that people were saying that the quality assurance making sure 
the cowl plate information matched what the VIN was was known to be lax.  He 
said that he wouldn't agree with that information.  Is this just a case of a 
person protecting a marque reputation or did anything go on the assembly line 
in 1968?  Thanks for you help, Ken   

- --part1_1dc.264f08c6.2e285a7a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Greetings Oldsmobile Rocket Scienti=
sts!<BR>
<BR>
I was emailed by Ken&nbsp; to see if I ever heard of such a cowl tag problem=
 before.<BR>
<BR>
here is his email to me,&nbsp;&nbsp; Please&nbsp;&nbsp; someone here MUST ha=
ve the answer.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks<BR>
<BR>
Vinny<BR>
68 ho&nbsp;&nbsp; ho&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ho <BR>
<BR>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<BR>
<BR>
here is the actual picture of my cowl plate.&nbsp; I you will no doubt obser=
ve, the date code 06A is correct for the 68 H/O production run, the 940 (bla=
ck) interior trim code is correct, and the Z-Z paint code is correct.&nbsp;=20=
The assembley plant code appears to be "WAF," but we all know the literature=
 says it should be "LAN" for the Lansing plant.&nbsp; I called everyone I co=
uld think of, read all the literature I could find, and searched the interne=
t high and low.&nbsp; I even called the company that used to be Fisher Body=20=
to see if I could find someone who might know what those letters stand for,=20=
but with no success.&nbsp; The information I read on the subject state that=20=
the numbers after the assembly plant code do not match anything in the VIN o=
r the engine or tranny.&nbsp; A more minor mystery is the Body Style code.&n=
bsp; The 336 part is correct because all the bodies used from the Lansing pl=
ant for the H/Os and 442 all bore the Cutlass body style code on the cowl pl=
ate.&nbsp; The part that is the mystery is the 77 part of the code.&nbsp; As=
 we know, the "77"<BR>
code represents the club coupe style.&nbsp; Hurst #335, which is my car (and=
 the car this plate is on), is a Holiday Coupe which is code "87."&nbsp; I t=
alked to a representative at the Oldsmobile History Center and told him that=
 I had read on the 442 website that people were saying that the quality assu=
rance making sure the cowl plate information matched what the VIN was was kn=
own to be lax.&nbsp; He said that he wouldn't agree with that information.&n=
bsp; Is this just a case of a person protecting a marque reputation or did a=
nything go on the assembly line in 1968?&nbsp; Thanks for you help, Ken&nbsp=
;&nbsp; <BR>
</FONT></HTML>
- --part1_1dc.264f08c6.2e285a7a_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 22:06:30 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: dwell meter

At 01:10 PM 7/15/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>(snip) Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to know how 
>to set points gap correctly when your dewll meter is not available or 
>functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]
>
>No chris you are not the last one to own a dwell meter. Two of my cars 
>still have points.

....... and plenty of us with '80s vehicles still use em for other
purposes, like troubleshooting the CCC system. I have four or five plus a
small one in each glove box of my cars.

And every time Sunpro has a "garage sale" with a dwell meter, they sell out
fast.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:18:16 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

On Jul 12, 2004, at 1:39 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 00:06:22 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install
>
>> they mention a
>> relay set up and oil pressure switch. Did you use either of those?
>
>
> Not to horn in, but I don't. 12 gauge wire from the junction terminal 
> on the
> horn rely to the switch on the dash, 12 gauge wire from that switch to 
> the
> trunk where a bracket holds another switch, and twin 12 gauge wires 
> with
> inline fuses to the 2 pumps. I fuse as close to pump(s) as possible, 
> for
> that's where I expect a short to occur, if it happens.

Aaauugh!
Not to horn in on your horning in :), but that's dead wrong. you 
*always* fuse as close to the battery as possible, because that's where 
the power is coming from. The way you've done it, a short anywhere 
between the battery and the pumps will fry the battery and the whole 
length of the wire. You're setup will only work if the pump itself 
shorts out, or the short length of wire between the pump and fuse.
Please, please rewire that immediately - I don't want to see thunder 
burn down!

On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:20:22 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

On Jul 12, 2004, at 1:39 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 12:47:26 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install
>
> One thing that bugs me about the oil pressure shutoff switch. It's 
> main use
> is supposed to be for safety, in the event of a car accident and the 
> engine
> stops. Then, the fuel pump shuts off. However, how many accidents have 
> you
> seen where the engine doesn't shut off and has to be killed with the 
> key?
> I've never had a car accident where the engine shut itself off. That 
> covers
> a few, especially when I was younger. The comment from John about 
> having the
> oil pressure shutoff switch set low enough so the engine will start 
> quickly
> is also valid.
>
> The use of the oil pressure shutoff switch is more of a personal 
> comfort
> decision, IMHO. :-)

Go get yourself an inirtial fuel pump cut-off switch ("impact switch") 
from any late-model Ford EFI car (or truck, I assume). Their usually in 
the trunk. Black box with a big yellow button to reset it. Wire in-line 
with fuel pump power. It's what I'll be doing when I EFI my '70.
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 18:10:12 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: dwell meter

15 Jul 2004  John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net> writes:
> (snip) Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to 
> know how to set points gap correctly when your dwell meter is 
> not available or functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]

Well, use a ($5000) oscilloscope of course.
>
> No chris you are not the last one to own a dwell meter. Two of 
> my cars still have points.
> John Kelsey

So there are still 3 running cars left with points?

Bruce (hates points) Roe  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 23:14:02 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

At 05:18 PM 7/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>Not to horn in, but I don't. 12 gauge wire from the junction 
>>terminal on the horn rely to the switch on the dash, 12 gauge 
>>wire from that switch to the trunk where a bracket holds another 
>>switch, and twin 12 gauge wires with inline fuses to the 2 pumps. 
>>I fuse as close to pump(s) as possible, for that's where I expect 
>>a short to occur, if it happens.
>
>Aaauugh!
>Not to horn in on your horning in :), but that's dead wrong. you 
>*always* fuse as close to the battery as possible, because that's where 
>the power is coming from. The way you've done it, a short anywhere 
>between the battery and the pumps will fry the battery and the whole 
>length of the wire. You're setup will only work if the pump itself 
>shorts out, or the short length of wire between the pump and fuse.
>Please, please rewire that immediately - I don't want to see thunder 
>burn down!

I was going to say the same thing Kevin did, then I rembered something
else. I had a Hooley fuel pump a long time ago and fused it at the
instrument panel. One day, the pump froze. Because of the wire's
resistance, it didn't draw quite enough current to blow the fuse right
away; my first indication of a problem was smelling the wire's insulation
burning as the pump drew enough current to overload the wire but not blow
the fuse at the panel.

This is a case where it would probably be better to use TWO fuses: one at
the pump and one at the battery, to protect against the wire shorting,
itself. The one at the battery could be somewhat larger. But even THIS
won't do a whole lotta good if the ground straps between the engine block
and are missing, corroded or too small; the ground straps will simply heat
up, increase resistance and possibly keep the big fuse from blowing.

The only real cure is to maintain the whole electrical system meticulously.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 19:43:08 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Tires and Rims

I'm not if it was this list or not...but I remember someone posting a web
site to see what your car...truck would look like with different rims and
tires...anyone remember this site and have it and can post the link to
me...I'm gonna keep looking for it...

Thanks

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:27:13 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Tires and Rims

Here ya go Tami.
http://www.americanracing.com/

M

At 07:43 PM 7/15/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm not if it was this list or not...but I remember someone posting a web
>site to see what your car...truck would look like with different rims and
>tires...anyone remember this site and have it and can post the link to
>me...I'm gonna keep looking for it...
>
>Thanks
>
>Tami

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:31:38 -0400
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Re: Tires and Rims

Tami,

On American Racing's main page (http://www.americanracing.com/) there is a
link at the bottom for this.  It opens a new window which loads a wheel and
car selector.  Olds options include '68 - '70 442, '70 - '72 Supreme &
Supreme Convert, and, of all things, a '34 Coupe!  Not sure if that's what
you're referencing, but it may do the trick.

 ~ Dan

+++++++++++++++++++++++++
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 Post 4spd
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++++

> I'm not if it was this list or not...but I remember someone posting a web
> site to see what your car...truck would look like with different rims and
> tires...anyone remember this site and have it and can post the link to
> me...I'm gonna keep looking for it...
>
> Thanks
>
> Tami

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:39:59 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Tires and Rims

Thanks Mark.....I'll be saving it this time!!!!!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 19:36:08 -0500
From: "Nick Dean" <sausageman79@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tires and Rims

I believe this is what you're looking for.

http://www.autowaretech3.net/swonline/

or

http://www.autowaretech3.net/swodemo.html

For some reason it doesn't seem to be working right now.  Looks like a
temporary glitch, but who knows how long till they fix it.  I'm glad I saved
a screen capture of my car when I did it before, though.

Nick Dean
SIU Automotive Technology, Carbondale, IL
'72 Cutlass Supreme (needing some work to get back on the road again)
'88 4Runner (desperately desiring a 350 Rocket!)



- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>;
<Cutlass442Owners@yahoogroups.com>; "442" <442@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Tires and Rims


> I'm not if it was this list or not...but I remember someone posting a web
> site to see what your car...truck would look like with different rims and
> tires...anyone remember this site and have it and can post the link to
> me...I'm gonna keep looking for it...
>
> Thanks
>
> Tami
>
>
>


- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.717 / Virus Database: 473 - Release Date: 7/8/2004

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:41:47 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Tires and Rims

Thanks Dan.....I think that will do the trick!!!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:41:42 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: dwell meter

i have one at work for pre 1974 cars and 1 home for my 72 cutlass convertable.
ron 
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: "olds list" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: dwell meter


> (snip) Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to know how 
> to set points gap correctly when your dewll meter is not available or 
> functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]
> 
> No chris you are not the last one to own a dwell meter. Two of my cars 
> still have points.
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 21:09:42 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Tires and Rims

Thanks Nick....I'll check out those web sites!!!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 22:52:59 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: R134 conversion of oil?

All,

Ho'kay, at work today, ran into something a little odd.  Since my beater's
losing freon, and I'd rather not use up my R12 on a car I don't really care
much about, I'm considering converting to R134.

However, I've seen a few kits with all the adapters, and the R134 cans with
o-ring conditioner and lube.

But then there's this one, made by Quest, an adapter kit with only 2
adapters, maybe 3, a hose, and this can of "Conversion Oil".

The can says it contains PAG oil and a conversion substance that makes the
old mineral oil compatible with the PAG oil, noting that removal of the
mineral oil won't be needed.

So it says once you put on the adapters and add this stuff, the car's ready
to get R134 added.

This was a new one on me.  Anyone heard of this kind of stuff?  Does it
work as claimed?

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 23:21:59 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: dstaxpro@infionline.net
Subject: Re: 34 olds resto

- -----Original Message-----
From: 67Oldz <67@oldsmobile.net>

From: Joyce K [mailto:gramjoyce@derbyworks.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 6:55 PM
To: HelpOldsNet@Oldsmobile.net
Subject: 1934 L-34



Hi, I'm not sure if I have the right contact or not, but I have a 1934 Oldsmobile, L-34,
convertible, dual sidemounts, rumble seat, completely restored.  I'm trying to do some
research on it and not certain where to begin.  Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!  Joyce 

Well, I'll try to help a little if I can.
My book says that your car is powered by an inline 8 cylinder motor putting out an advertised 90 horsepower.  Bore and stroke is 3.00" X 4.25" which they say figures out to 240.3 cubic inches.   It also shows the wheelbase to be 119.0", base weight of 3325 pounds, with a base price of $975 and a production of 915 vehicles with the designation L-34 convertible coupe 2-4 persons.  Unfortunately that is all the info my book has, but I guess it is better than nothing, right?  

For comparative purposes, the appreoximate same model in the Ford lineup was priced around $600, the Chevy models in the $450-550 range and the Buick in the $1250-1500 range.  Of course these comparisons are somewhat subjective as I am trying to guess at equals amoungst the differing car lines.  But I thought it might be of interest to you.  Good luck on your search....

Don

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 22:04:16 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

> Because of the wire's
> resistance, it didn't draw quite enough current to blow the fuse right
> away; my first indication of a problem was smelling the wire's insulation
> burning as the pump drew enough current to overload the wire but not blow
> the fuse at the panel.


I've seen that before. That's why I prefer fusing at the equipment, in the
same way laboratory equipment is often fused.


> The only real cure is to maintain the whole electrical system
meticulously.


That's why I use 12 gauge wire for certain things and sometimes use 10
gauge. Sometimes, there's more than one way to do things.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 02:37:03 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
Subject: dwell meter/EMP/clear dis Mr gasket

"Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> wrote:

Also, EMP will *not* stop a point distributor engine using a simple
>a coil. EMP will take out any electronic ignition, either stock, MSD, etc.
>
Hello
Is this the electro cannon we spoke of earlier?EMP=Elec Mega POOF?
I think thats what those smokeys are shootin at me late nights runnin moon shine at 100mph.
Tanks god i still gots me points and not that MSD that turns into a single spark after 3000 revs anyway(but still a hotter spark). 
I got this dwell meter/tach fer .50 at a garage sale yrs ago and still does a good job.
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1088454416902_0715_005.jpg 
The tach comes in handy when yer head cant reach into the car to see the tach cause heads unner the hood(i gots a short neck).
Timing light $10.00 bought light yrs ago and still kickin.
The clear mr gasket cap had a bum window,,figures its a new part :O.
I had to swap out a window from the ole delco cap to the new Mr crap cap.
Why do we have to git used to buyin somting new and it junk?
Have ya ever looked up into a cap and seen shavings of plastic from where they cut the terminal posts/plastic inside cap.
Well i can tell yas the mr crap cap had a ton of it i had to clean out.
I dont want to tell you what i paid fer the mr * cap today.
The entertainment value of watchin the rotor spin by tomorrow night better be worth it:)maybe we can even phase her?
Be nice or she come git ya.
 http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1090644821059_0715_002.jpg 
Randy H.
Maple Ditch B.C.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 7:20:41 -0400
From: <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: SX value and performance opinions wanted

I'll be going to look at a '71 Cutlass SX convertible in a week or two and
would like some opinions as to the value/fair price.

The guy who has the car is a good friend of a good friend. He bought the car from the second owner and has not retitled the car. This guy knows Oldsmobiles and buys them, fixes them up to high standards and flips them. The car is currently being painted. As a friend knows the painter, for now I will assume the quality will be up to his normal standard of excellent. While its being painted he's adding W30 stripes. Not sure if the SX body side molding will be reinstalled or not.

The second owner bought the car in '73 and has full documentation. The car has ~96,000 miles and the engine was rebuilt at about 90K, 6 years ago. The body is all original with no rust ever (garage kept since '73). The car has buckets with console and standard shifter, tilt wheel, A/C, P/S, P/B, original radio and 8 track. I forgot to ask about power windows and locks. The seat covers and top are new, all other interior parts are original and said to be excellent. Color is brown with a tan interior and top (original colors) and the stripes will match the top. He also added a Thornton OAI hood and aircleaner.

I was really looking for a '71 442, but as this is close by figured I'd check it out. My biggest concern is the performance aspect. While I wouldn't have any qualms with a little head work and bigger cam, I don't think I'd want to swap the rear for steeper gears as this is a very original car sans hood and stripes. Not sure what gears are in it but 3.08 was the steepest gear and limited slip was an option, so for now I'll assume it's a 2.73 open rear. All opinions appreciated.

Thanks,
Kurt Heinrich

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 10:42:54 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: cheap #8 heads, 350 crank, 425 engine, etc.

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25

Take a peek if interested...
Still have that 1968 98 Luxury Sedan, too, ready to part it out if I don't 
get any nibbles at all.

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4952
*********************************
