
oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, May 29 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4904



Fw: installing piston pins
Re: blockages
RE: UNBOUNCE: 76 olds cutlass brougham
RE: UNBOUNCE: 76 olds cutlass brougham
Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.
Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.
Re: blockages
Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.
Lock cylinder, or something else?
Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.
Subject: CorvOlds on Ebay
Re: blockages
Re: Lock cylinder, or something else?
RE: Original Owners

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 10:15:57 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Fw: installing piston pins

Matias Maciej L. Raniewicz
Trade 2000 Tour Op & Travel Agency
Paseo Las Palmas 2225 Local 211, Metro Los Leones, Santiago, Chile
travelchile@manquehue.net, www.southoftheworld.net
Fax: 56 2 3331165, Telefono Central: 56 2 3689411
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: installing piston pins


Chris, the home method to install the pins is to heat the rod and freeze the
pin - one is getting bigger the other one smaller making the installation a
...  breeze? did this in my Renault, worked perfectly well for me.
The press instalation with both parts at the ambient temperature  is ok if
you have the apropriate press and take the precaution to meassure and adjust
the tolerances to the specs - the forces of friction when pressing the pin
inside the rod can be harmfull to both if the pin is too big.
Now - if you use an apropriate heater, termostatically controlled not to
overheat the rod, you should not need to freeze pins... but you can if you
doubt... anyway it is usefull to have a nice stand prepared to thrwo the pin
inside and have it pisitioned perfectly as it drops down, as it can go
through and fall down on the other side of the piston... happened to me as
well..
rgds
Matt

  ok, I've been a little busy with work but wanted to learn more about this
from our discussion last week.  Basically from what I gathered is a rod
heater is ok, as long as the rod isn't overheated.  since no one here on
this list knows what temperature the rod heater that was used on the rods in
my engine went to specifically, we can only speculate.  but obviously
overheating a rod is bad.  Milton said he preferred/recommended freezing the
pins before installing by putting them in a freezer overnight.  Milton, out
of curiousity, any old freezer, or is there a certain temparture the pins
have to be and there could be other methods rather than a freezer to achieve
the desired temperature.  Also, I don't have the CSM memorized let alone
sitting in front of me, but the passage you quoted didn't say anything about
heating the rods, like you stated.  however, it didn't say anything about
freezing pins either.  IIRC, it basically just stated, oil the pins, put in
press, press them in.  I also found out some information from a 3rd party
for lack of a better term.  They said a device with heat coils is used to
heat the small end of the rod in order to install pistons pin.  So, it
sounds like there are 3 methods to install pins.  Does anyone else have any
insight?

  Chris
  grp442@yahoo.com


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
  Do you Yahoo!?
  Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 10:15:18 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: blockages

Right! I've lost at least 3 messages this week.. and there was nothing
against Bush neither pro Islam....only Olds related stuff
Matt
P.S. Chile is on the right side of the free countries as well...
Poland is implied in Iran...
so?????
Matias Maciej L. Raniewicz
Trade 2000 Tour Op & Travel Agency
Paseo Las Palmas 2225 Local 211, Metro Los Leones, Santiago, Chile
travelchile@manquehue.net, www.southoftheworld.net
Fax: 56 2 3331165, Telefono Central: 56 2 3689411
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 9:48 AM
Subject: blockages


> Is there a list of filters we can look at so that we can avoid having our
> messages "disappear"?
> Too often my mail doesn't get through to the list.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 14:23:39 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: UNBOUNCE: 76 olds cutlass brougham

>Not on the list, respond to AngCrensh@aol.com if you can assist.
[...]
>>From:   AngCrensh@aol.com
>>Subject: 76 olds cutlassbrougham
>>
>>I purchased a 76 olds cutlass brougham about a year ago. It has
>>a 350 motor and automatic transmisson. It also has H/H t-tops And a
>>sticker on the drivers door stating it was modified by hurst
>>performance in 1975. The car is white with red pin stripes and red
>>interior. It does not have any H/o emblems on the car and it never
>>did. Im trying to find out what this car is. Any help would be great.

I think at minimum it would help to see the VIN for this car. I was under 
the impression that by 1976 (i.e. late 1975 production for '76 model years), 
the T-top design had evolved from the original Hurst Hatch design, with a 
portion of body-color sheet metal down the middle, to the later style where 
the glass panels meet in a T-bar section down the center. Buick Regals or 
Specials of 1976 and up were using it as well.

That later design was a completely different roof assembly, starting with 
different sheet-metal stampings, whereas the earlier ones could (with some 
effort) be retrofitted into a car originally built without them. Leakage was 
a big problem with the first-generation designs; a little less leaky with 
the later style (which were a bit easier to tighten down and re-seal as time 
went by since the entire roof frame was built to accommodate them).

I'm inclined to believe the Hurst Performance sticker on the door as showing 
the car to be modified post-assembly, in the same way that ASC would get 
cars direct from the factory to do their T-top, sunroof or convertible 
conversion work. Someone who knows Hurst models a lot better than I do (i.e. 
just about everybody :-) needs to jump in here...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN 
Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 14:31:03 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: UNBOUNCE: 76 olds cutlass brougham

>I'm inclined to believe the Hurst Performance sticker on the
>door as showing the car to be modified post-assembly, in the
>same way that ASC would get cars direct from the factory to
>do their T-top, sunroof or convertible conversion work.

P.S. Just to be clear on this, the presence of Hurst Hatch panels on this 
car does not make it a Hurst Olds. In fact, from the description of the rest 
of the car, it probably isn't. Many early to mid-70s GM cars with T-tops 
used the Hurst Hatch design, including Camaros and Firebirds.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN 
Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:54:55 -0400
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.

Hey listers,

I have a question about valve sizes in an Olds 455. I just had the valves 
replaced in my 1972 Ga heads. The machine shop had a little trouble getting the 
correct sized valves at first.  So I looked in my 1971 CSM and my 1972 New 
Product Service Manual 201 and here is what I found.

In the '71 CSM the "standard" 455 has Intake=2.000" and Exhaust=1.625"  The '71 
W-30 Intake=2.072" with Exhaust="Same as standard".  I assume that the larger 
Intake valve helps the W-30 generate more HP.

In my '72 NPSM 201 the "standard" 455 has Intake=2.00" and Exhaust=1.684" 
The '72 W-30 Intake=2.072" with Exhaust=1.625".

Can someone explain the reason why Olds used a larger Exhaust valve in the 
standard 455 and retained the "smaller" Exhaust in the high performance W-30 
application in 1972?  

I'll be in the garage installing my heads while you answer this question.

Best wishes to all for a great weekend!
Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 14:14:06 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.

I wasn't aware that Olds had an exhaust valve larger than 1.625" available.
The larger exhaust valve is used to more thoroughly scavenge the cylinder to
bring in a denser air/fuel charge. A bigger intake valve is not always
better. Didn't your '72 have lower compression than a '71? If so, Olds was
trying to recover lost power from the compression drop by using a slightly
bigger exhaust valve.

My 468 has 2.02" intakes and 1.75" exhausts. Those valves are custom. There
are many other items in her engine, which produces 573 HP @ 6300 RPM and 600
pounds of torque @ 400 RPM on a dyno, all on one 850 Holley double pumper.
Bigger exhaust valves are more important than bigger intake valves, in many
cases.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McDonald" <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
To: "Hurst Olds List" <hurstolds@yahoogroups.com>; "OLDS List"
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 12:54 PM
Subject: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.


> Hey listers,
>
> I have a question about valve sizes in an Olds 455. I just had the valves
> replaced in my 1972 Ga heads. The machine shop had a little trouble
getting the
> correct sized valves at first.  So I looked in my 1971 CSM and my 1972 New
> Product Service Manual 201 and here is what I found.
>
> In the '71 CSM the "standard" 455 has Intake=2.000" and Exhaust=1.625"
The '71
> W-30 Intake=2.072" with Exhaust="Same as standard".  I assume that the
larger
> Intake valve helps the W-30 generate more HP.
>
> In my '72 NPSM 201 the "standard" 455 has Intake=2.00" and Exhaust=1.684"
> The '72 W-30 Intake=2.072" with Exhaust=1.625".
>
> Can someone explain the reason why Olds used a larger Exhaust valve in the
> standard 455 and retained the "smaller" Exhaust in the high performance
W-30
> application in 1972?
>
> I'll be in the garage installing my heads while you answer this question.
>
> Best wishes to all for a great weekend!
> Mike McDonald
> McDonald_M@72ho.com
>
> 1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
>     "as seen on Speed TV"
>    The American Musclecar
>             or
>         www.72ho.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 18:36:58 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: blockages

On Fri, 28 May 2004, 67Oldz wrote:

> Is there a list of filters we can look at so that we can avoid having our
> messages "disappear"?

In a word, no. I don't even know what all of them are. I can tell you some
of the more common ones - substitute an "e" for the *:

t*st
h*lp
"I will b* out"

Other times majordomo will bounce messages if a magic word that is one of
its commands appears early in the message at the start of a new line, i.e.
such words as "get", etc., but that is very rare.

> Too often my mail doesn't get through to the list.

99 times out of 100 it is because you are sending MIM*/HTML encoded
messages, even if you don't know it. There are certain messages that make
it to the list originally but which trigger such bounces when replied to,
and I've never been able to figure that one out.

One thing to be clear upon is that there is no approval of message content
before it hits the list other than what majordomo does as noted above.
While we do not permit certain types of posts acording to the list
guidelines, it's not as if I read stuff first and then decide
whether to forward it. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 15:49:52 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.

> pounds of torque @ 400 RPM on a dyno, all on one 850 Holley


Of course, that was a typo. It's "@ 4000 RPM on a dyno." Sorry about that.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 20:35:09 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Lock cylinder, or something else?

All,

	Well, just in time for me to now NOT be heading out to a friend's place in
Maryland, the 1989 Eighty-Eight Royale seems to have trouble starting.

	The problem is with the key and/or lock cylinder, or something inside the
column, I guess.

	It's a little bit more stubborn letting the key in and letting me pull it
out.  Turns to the accessory position, and the on position, with no trouble
at all.

	BUT . . it won't let me turn it far enough to start it.  If I put it in ON
and crawl under the car to jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver,
there's no problem.

	It also developed the ability to put the car in ACC or ON without the use
of the key, very shortly before the chrome bracket piece broke off.

	Is there an easy way to remove the lock cylinder and replace it without
mucking with the steering wheel or column?

	Is the lock cylinder itself actually the reason I can't get the thing to
turn far enough to start?  It made no difference if it was in park or neutral.


	Thanks.  Please CC to jvahabzadeh@yahoo.com in case I have to read this
remotely.

	Hmph . . the indignity of having to drive that Honda beater because the
Olds is somewhat incapacitated.


	Though I better keep my mouth shut . . if I insult it too much, the Honda
might decide to strand me about 150 miles from home.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 19:41:03 -0500
From: "JBS" <jbschuren@houston.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.

hehe... was about to ask if you had converted it to a diesel.... :)

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile 455 valve size question.


> > pounds of torque @ 400 RPM on a dyno, all on one 850 Holley
>
>
> Of course, that was a typo. It's "@ 4000 RPM on a dyno." Sorry about that.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 02:26:24 EDT
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Subject: CorvOlds on Ebay

- -------------------------------1085811983
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479616423&
category=6167


Can anyone say... Intercooler??

- -------------------------------1085811983
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV><A href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp=
;rd=3D1&amp;item=3D2479616423&amp;category=3D6167">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym=
otors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;rd=3D1&amp;item=3D2479616423&amp;categor=
y=3D6167</A><BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Can anyone say... Intercooler??</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1085811983--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 09:20:26 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: blockages

Something to check if your messages don't reach the list - happened to me:

If you use Message Rules to filter junk mail, make sure you don't filter
simple character sequences that could occur in normal posts. For instance I
often get spam with "hi" as the subject line. When I filtered that, I lost
all posts (including my own) on another list relating to the subject "shims"
because it contained "hi". OE isn't smart enough to know the difference.

And for some strange reason if I make a new post to the Olds list using OE
and select the To: from my address book, it never shows up. However if I
reply to a post it works perfectly. Same exact address. What I've resorted
to is hitting reply on a saved message, then erasing the text and
substituting my own. Very strange.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 10:23:58 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Lock cylinder, or something else?

I should probably clarify.... as I don't know if I have the terminology
correct.

When I say it will go to the ACC and ON positions, I mean when turning the
key forward (ie, the first and second "notches", if you will).  I know that
you can also normally turn the key backward one step to get the radio to
work on most GM cars, but that has never worked for some reason on this
vehicle, at least not in the time my brother or I have owned it.  Between
the two of us, the car's been in the family for a few years.

Don't know if that's "no radio position" thing is significant.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh


At 08:35 PM 05/28/2004 -0400, I wrote:
<snip>
>	BUT . . it won't let me turn it far enough to start it.  If I put it in ON
>and crawl under the car to jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver,
>there's no problem.
>
>	It also developed the ability to put the car in ACC or ON without the use
>of the key, very shortly before the chrome bracket piece broke off.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 10:30:21 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: Original Owners

Well this is going to get interesting, Ron.  In the class of '65, you have
the honor to reside with John Galehouse of Cleveland OH who still owns (I
believe) the '65 442 he bought new, and even used for his honeymoon.  Still
has the wife, too.  Quite a feat on both counts.
But there will need to be a tie-breaker (date bought?) between Dennis Urban
and another great guy Steve Oznowich in Mentor, OH.  He also is in the class
of '64 with a beautiful 442 he bought new.  He restored it (most of the work
himself) back in the early '90s and took a best of class at the OCA Nats in
St Louis.
Guys (and gals too!), I personally know all four of these guys (no, I'm not
that old!), and I can tell you they all are a tribute to what is good in the
Oldsmobile ranks, and I am proud to be their friend.

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of R4C442@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2004 9:12 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Original Owner


Did anyone read that article in last months JWO about the original owner of
a 66-442 being the current "old guy" champ? We all know better than that so
I'm going to drop them a line with a pic. I seem to remember that Dennis
Urban bought his 64-442 new. Does anyone know if this is true and does he
still own it?
                                              Ron Forsee
                                              65-442 Temporary Old Guy Champ

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4904
*********************************
