
oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, July 17 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4954



Re: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) - the question is answered...
Re: Possible method to replace hard-to-find parts?
Re: Electric fuel pump install
RE: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass
Re: Electric fuel pump install
Re: Electric fuel pump install
Documenting a 66 Tripower 66-442
Re: Possible method to replace hard-to-find parts?
Re: SX value and performance opinions wanted
Re: 1978 Olds Omega For Sale in New England
Interesting MegaSquirt developments....
Re: Electric fuel pump install
Re: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass
RE: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) -  the question is answered...
Engine frame mounts
RE: window regulators for a 1956 Olds
[442] looking for a good home!
RE: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) -
FW: forged crank found in 68 Big Car
seeking 66 F85-Cutlass-442 REAR BUMPER and OAI air cleaner
RE: A4/A5 on a 260
Re: SX value and performance opinions wanted
Frod 289 Valve Seals???
More on the scrap experimental Diesel engine
Re: dwell meter
More on the scrap experimental Diesel engine
'67 Supreme convert pics

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 01:43:10 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) - the question is answered...

At 08:10 PM 7/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Nothing like spending two six hour days at autozone.

That's why I try to let my fingers do the walking, before going to either
Advance or AZ. But I found that neither's in-store computer necessarily
agrees with what the web site computers say they have, or don't have. So
web-searching is mainly to get good ideas of the prices.

I sure wish Carquest had an on-line catalog; I'd be much more likely to try
shopping there  ;o((((((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:37:54 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Possible method to replace hard-to-find parts?

Scott,
Another source is Egge Machine Company. ( www.egge.com ).  They manufacture 
parts from the early 1900's throught the 1970's.

M



At 05:22 PM 7/16/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>An article on Slashdot mentioned a company called eMachineShop:
>
>http://www.emachineshop.com/
>
>I took a look around in there because I'll need to fab up some mounting
>hardware for one of my old computers soon, but it also looks like it could
>be of use in reproducing hard-to-find parts.  You'd need to create the
>design yourself first (possibly patterned after your broken part), and I
>doubt that it'd be cheap, but for something that you can't find in a Yarde
>or through the usual vendors, it looks like it could be another option for
>keeping your Olds on the road.  If it's something that several people
>want/need at about the same time, I would think a group order would get the
>unit cost down to something approaching reasonable.
>
>The Slashdot article is at this link:
>
>http://slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=04/07/16/2030222&mode=nested&tid=137&tid=216
>
>   _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
>  / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
>  \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on 
> Usenet?

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:17:18 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

"Perhaps I missed it, but what particular part #/application is the oil pressure switch? This sounds like a useful bit to have."

Some examples of fuel & ignition cutoff switches:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G1438&N=120 302432
  (7 psi switch, appears for ignition but could be wired to relay for use with fuel pump)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG-7872&N=120 304679
(also here for less: http://go.mrgasket.com/ProductDetails.aspx?brandID=1&productID=25724&txtSearch=7872  although photo is wrong - this is a 15 psi switch for fuel pump)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY-12-810&N=120 300719
  (fuel pump safety switch, cut-off pressure not specified but has screw-type terminals rather than just male spade ends)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC-4120223
  (15 psi ignition cut-off switch from Mopar performance, can be seen here:
   http://www.mopar.com/m_perf_parts_product_part.jsp?categoryID=10013&itemID=343  )

Fuel cutoff also available from Carter, part# A68301, no other info available on this part.

In reality, any of these switches should be fine if wired to 2 relays - one for the ignition power lead and one for the fuel pump, or without a relay if used for the intended application.  The fuel pump switches would be fine for ignition cut-off use, but the ignition switches like the Summit brand unit may not be able to handle sufficient current for the pump.  Given the 7 psi rating of the summit switch I think I personally would go with that switch wired through relay(s), although I do like the security of the screw connections on the Holley switc(probably overkill there, though).


For the record, I like the use of the inertia switches also, like the Fords have - I believe many of the cars have it in the left rear trunk area, while the later suv's were under the dash behind the center console and the later trucks were behind the right kick panel - of course this is subject to variation by year & model but I looked at a 2001 F150 today and the switch was behind that kick panel - needed to locate it to get the truck running after a crash.  I think most of those switches can be easily retrofitted into a generic electric fuel pump application, but they need to be accessible so that the reset button can be reached in the event they are tripped.  They can be a bit of a pain at times though, and if you add one of these I would strongly suggest a little label on the dash or at least in the glove box door advising of the switch's presence and location, in case you are not the one driving one day when it is set off.


- -- 
Michael Ecker
Lehigh Acres, Florida
ecker567@comcast.net

1978 Cutlass Supreme - $500 purchase, being slowly fixed up
   (in line for V6-to-403 swap soon, and maybe 200-4R and gears...)

1979 Cutlass Supreme Brougham - becoming a circle track car
   (bought without title, had Certificate of Destruction so can never
    be re-registered, but will uphold the Oldsmobile name with honor)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 21:15:54 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass

They did the interior door panels of my 66 Starfire. Not an easy job if you
know how these cars looked back then. 

Beautiful job, really correct with heat stamped seams & everything, but not
cheap as I recall. 

High side of $2000 as I recall, but I could be way off. 

Point here is they do impeccable work. I think they buy up fabrics when
interior shops close and have been at it a while. They have extensive stock
of long out of production fabrics and one of the few heat seam stamping
machines left in the country.

As the economists say -- the last iceman always makes money. These guys are
among the last icemen.

They remade the panels and even found repro aluminum reflective foil. 

I had the seats sewn locally from materials they supplied.  All in all a
much better restoration than my 66 98 convertible. 

I was very happy with SMS. 

Chris Fair
66 98 Convertible
66 Starfire
94 MX-6 M*zda 
99 VW P*ssat


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:09 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass


>Anyone have any info I can forward to this gentleman?

http://www.smsautofabrics.com/

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:26:33 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

This is interesting also:

Question:  1989 Chevy Camaro rs 2.8 liter mileage: 40000.  I'm trying to 
find the proper wire color code for my oil pressure gauge connector.  
Its located just above the oil filter and its a 3 pin connector with 
three wires, however in my Haynes manual there is only one wire shown 
(orange).  The Chevy dealer hasn't been helpful and GM suggested I try you.

Answer: The orange wire is for the oil pressure.  The other two wires 
are for the fuel pump cutoff switch.  The function of the switch is to 
stop the electric fuel pump if you lose oil pressure while driving 
(saves the engine).


Don't know if this sender would work with a Ralley Pac oil pressure 
gauge, but if so this would be an easy way to add this function.

- -- 
Michael Ecker
Lehigh Acres, Florida
ecker567@comcast.net

1978 Cutlass Supreme - $500 purchase, being slowly fixed up
   (in line for V6-to-403 swap soon, and maybe 200-4R and gears...)

1979 Cutlass Supreme Brougham - becoming a circle track car
   (bought without title, had Certificate of Destruction so can never
    be re-registered, but will uphold the Oldsmobile name with honor)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 22:36:40 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

> and subwoofer box in the trunk, and had run a 4-ga power cable from the
> battery, along the right apron, behind the fender, in through the right
> front door jamb and down under the carpet, then on to the rear.


Part of the problem with shorted wiring run for add-on items is how the wire
was routed. Going through a door jam is asking for Murphy and his family to
pay one a visit. Wires should be routed directly, away from anything that
can cause damage. If necessary, punch a hole through the firewall and/or
floorpan for proper routing. Use either a slotted vacuum hose or an
electronic rack wire hole protector, either rubber or gator clip, to prevent
chaffing of the wire(s) through the hole. Finally, run wires inside a
polyurethane tube for added protection when wires are routed under carpets
or must be routed on the underside of the floorpan. Common sense physical
and mechanical protection of wiring goes a long way to prevent visits from
Murphy.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 02:05:24 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Documenting a 66 Tripower 66-442

>From: Victoratty@aol.com
>To: rocketscience442@hotmail.com
>Subject: Re: 66 Tripower 66-442
>Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 17:06:47 EDT
>
>Thanks for the information. I was just wondering about documenting the car.
>It has vinyl floor mat, bench seat, radio delete, no p/s or p/b. Hurst 
>4-speed.
>
>Thanks,
>Jeff
===================
I have one 66-67 parts car that came with vinyl mat instead of carpet. Your 
car sounds like a great sleeper, put dog dish hubcaps on it.

Anyone on the list can help with documentation?
The Olds History Center can tell you some, from the Body Plate and VIN info, 
but, I doubt that they know much more than what's readily available in the 
body manual, chassis service manual, and Assembly Manual.

There are club advisors for various year/ models:

66-67 A-body:

Curtis Anderson
320-398-3079

Dave Pastrick
630-357-8083

Bob Noble
916 [?] 752-5653


Start with them guys?
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 08:24:45 EDT
From: WlJam5@aol.com
Subject: Re: Possible method to replace hard-to-find parts?

- -------------------------------1090067085
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

hi Mark.   hope you dont mind me seeing your info to steve.  i am looking for 
such a USA oem  even though my 1986 custom cruiser is later than the circa 
you quote. finding parts is still a probeme  i'll touch base with them I never 
hit the lottery maybe there will be luck with your suggestion.  have pleasent 
day   jay  w.

- -------------------------------1090067085
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>hi Mark.&nbsp;&nbsp; hope you dont mind me seeing your info to steve.&n=
bsp; i am looking for such a USA oem&nbsp; even though my 1986 custom cruise=
r is later than the circa you quote. finding parts is still a probeme&nbsp;&=
nbsp;i'll touch base with them I never hit the lottery maybe there will be l=
uck with your suggestion.&nbsp; have pleasent day&nbsp;&nbsp; jay&nbsp; w.</=
DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1090067085--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 08:40:39 -0400
From: "Clifford D.Hall" <cdhall55@nuvox.net>
Subject: Re: SX value and performance opinions wanted

This is true for the 71 model Olds SX, but they did make a few in 70 that
had the W-32 package. The W-32 includes the TV code W-32 engine, OG code
transmission, 3.23 gear.  Mine came with a positraction, FE2 suspension,
Sport Steering wheel, Tac and gauges, Hurst Dual gate, etc.
    http://members.trivergent.net/~cdhall/SXPage/SXPage.htm
    http://members.trivergent.net/~cdhall/
Thanks,
   Daniel Hall
- ----- Original Message ----- 
> The SX came with a standard gear ratio of 2.56. While they are nice cars,
I
> wouldn't pay 442 money for it. They are not 442's in sheep's clothing. I
have
> done a little research on the SX and have found them to be a Cutlass with
a 455
> & turbo 400 trans and a cutout bumper. They could be ordered with most of
the
> 442 options, but the drive train is not a performance combination.
>
> If you want a 71 442 convertible, I would wait till you find the right car
> instead of settling for a SX. Cars you plan to keep always take some time
to
> find the right car and usually worth the wait.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 08:55:56 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1978 Olds Omega For Sale in New England

> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> 1978 Oldsmobile Omega same body style as 1969 Nova. Only 1850 cars
> produced.

Hey, I had one of those! My first new car and my first Olds. Drove it
190,000 miles and 17 years. The V-6 was no Rocket.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 09:18:25 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@comcast.net>
Subject: Interesting MegaSquirt developments....

For those of you that have been considering the MegaSquirt EFI setup, 
here's a page worth checking out:

http://www.megasquirt.info/UMS.htm

Sounds promising.

Also, check out this page for info on purchasing the Bosch LSU4 wideband 
sensors for a reasonable price.

I need to do more research here..... if a simple circuit could be 
designed to control the LSU4, and the output could be monitored with a 
standard voltmeter, then the benefits of WBO2 tuning could be had pretty 
reasonably........

- -- 
Michael Ecker
Lehigh Acres, Florida
ecker567@comcast.net

1978 Cutlass Supreme - $500 purchase, being slowly fixed up
   (in line for V6-to-403 swap soon, and maybe 200-4R and gears...)

1979 Cutlass Supreme Brougham - becoming a circle track car
   (bought without title, had Certificate of Destruction so can never
    be re-registered, but will uphold the Oldsmobile name with honor)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 06:58:17 -0700
From: Paul Kelleher <pjkell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

I think the belt and suspenders approach to these add-on wiring jobs is 
to use fusible links at the source end of the wiring run, and a fuse at 
the device end.  The fusible link is sized to protect the wire run, not 
the device.  If there is a short in the wire before the device the link 
will melt before the wire can overheat enough to cause problems.  If 
there is a short in the device the fuse (at or near the device) will 
protect it.  This approach allows you to safely oversize the wires to 
limit voltage drop.  It also allows you to run one bigger wire say, from 
the engine compartment to the trunk for example, where a hot post can be 
located which can serve several devices, each protected by its own, 
appropriately sized fuse.
You can learn more about fusible links here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

Paul Kelleher
67 Cutlass with Lots of Fusible Links at the Horn Relay

Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote:

>>and subwoofer box in the trunk, and had run a 4-ga power cable from the
>>battery, along the right apron, behind the fender, in through the right
>>front door jamb and down under the carpet, then on to the rear.
>>    
>>
>
>
>Part of the problem with shorted wiring run for add-on items is how the wire
>was routed. Going through a door jam is asking for Murphy and his family to
>pay one a visit. Wires should be routed directly, away from anything that
>can cause damage. If necessary, punch a hole through the firewall and/or
>floorpan for proper routing. Use either a slotted vacuum hose or an
>electronic rack wire hole protector, either rubber or gator clip, to prevent
>chaffing of the wire(s) through the hole. Finally, run wires inside a
>polyurethane tube for added protection when wires are routed under carpets
>or must be routed on the underside of the floorpan. Common sense physical
>and mechanical protection of wiring goes a long way to prevent visits from
>Murphy.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 07:14:44 -0700
From: Paul Kelleher <pjkell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass

A while back I was the one who offered up some experience I had finding 
yellow interior materials for a 67 cutlass.  The below info is now about 
a year old so things/prices may have changed.

I could not locate interior panels or upholstery sets in the correct 
yellow vinyl from any of the usual sources. 
I found some so called correct vinyl from SMS in Portland Oregon at 
$45/yard.  The material sample looked very thin, so at that price I 
figured I could look around for something else.  I found a heavier and 
more durable marine vinyl product that was a fairly good match in color 
and texture to the original yellow madrid. It is called Baypoint 
II/Melowhide II, in the Sand Pebble color.  I bought it for $9.50 a yard 
from American Trim & Upholstery, Tulsa Oklahoma.

Paul Kelleher
67 Yellow on Yellow Cutlass

>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of 62oldsfan@comcast.net
>Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:09 AM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass
>  
>
>>Anyone have any info I can forward to this gentleman?
>>    
>>
>
>http://www.smsautofabrics.com/
>
>Paul
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 10:29:27 -0400
From: "bscabl" <bscabl@nycap.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) -  the question is answered...

I don't know particularly what AZ or advance's computer looks like, but for
staples [another big retailer] the zip code is for shipping info, actuall
stock availability simply pulls from a warehouse...a lot of people think it
comes from store stock, but it doesn't [5.5 year staples employee]
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Steve Harrison
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 9:43 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) - the
question is answered...

At 08:10 PM 7/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Nothing like spending two six hour days at autozone.

That's why I try to let my fingers do the walking, before going to either
Advance or AZ. But I found that neither's in-store computer necessarily
agrees with what the web site computers say they have, or don't have. So
web-searching is mainly to get good ideas of the prices.

I sure wish Carquest had an on-line catalog; I'd be much more likely to try
shopping there  ;o((((((((((

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 11:46:28 -0400
From: "Dan Roethel" <droethel@rogers.com>
Subject: Engine frame mounts

Does any one have some 68-72 big block engine frame mounts they would like
to sell?
Thought I'd check the list before I call the Parts Place for some new ones.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 11:51:20 -0400
From: clyde white <pwhite2@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: window regulators for a 1956 Olds

If you ar looking for a power window kit check out NU RELICS.INC power
windows 336-699-8949 in    nc

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Joe & Gloria Varley
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 2:14 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: window regulators for a 1956 Olds

There is a company that rebuilds window tegulators for Corvettes, and they 
work like a new one.  Check Corvette publications or an NCRS Driveline 
magazine if you can find one. Can't see where there could be much 
difference in the guts of the two types.

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 16:01:07 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: [442] looking for a good home!

FYI....... please contact the seller below, NOT ME!!  His e-mail is
d1dmos@yahoo.com  Sounds like a great deal for only $2000......

SteveH
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>X-eGroups-Return:
sentto-20522-1569-1090078305-k0xp=dandy.net@returns.groups.yahoo.com
>X-Sender: d1dmos@yahoo.com
>X-Apparently-To: 442@yahoogroups.com
>To: 442@yahoogroups.com
>User-Agent: eGroups-EW/0.82
>X-Mailer: Yahoo Groups Message Poster
>X-eGroups-Remote-IP: 66.218.66.100
>From: "d1dmos" <d1dmos@yahoo.com>
>X-Originating-IP: 12.220.101.151
>X-Yahoo-Profile: d1dmos
>X-eGroups-Approved-By: mellowonetwo <robinson4724@rogers.com> via email;
17 Jul 2004 15:31:45 -0000
>Mailing-List: list 442@yahoogroups.com; contact 442-owner@yahoogroups.com
>Delivered-To: mailing list 442@yahoogroups.com
>List-Unsubscribe: <mailto:442-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com>
>Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 13:40:20 -0000
>Subject: [442] looking for a good home!
>Reply-To: 442@yahoogroups.com
>X-pstn-levels:     (S:55.71341/99.90000 R:95.9108 P:95.9108 M:100.0000
C:65.4890 )
>X-pstn-settings: 5 (2.0000:8.0000) s gt3 gt2 gt1 r p m C 
>X-pstn-addresses: from <d1dmos@yahoo.com> forward (good recip) [1416/67] 
>X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by rastaban.dandy.net
id i6HFVkKn021137
>
> well, duty calls and i am doing something i swore i would never do
>but i have to. i am selling my project car. it's an all original 65
>cutlass, 2 door coupe. the car is apart because i was doing a frame
>off restoration. the shell has been stripped to bear metal, sealed and
>primered. there is minor body work that needs done, the frame has been
>sandblasted and powder painted. this car is straight and complete. i
>have every peice to this car and many, many extra's. i am selling this
>as a lot so buyer takes all, i have an extra 65 400 with trans,
>condition unkown of the engine and trans. the 330 that came out of the
>car, was running strong when i removed it. this car will have to be
>picked up via a trailor and several strong backs. i don't really want
>to sell this car but i own a house and i am a single parent that has
>been haveing trouble at work lately and need the cash to stay afloat.
>i am asking 2000 for everything that i have. if you took the extra
>parts, you could probably come out with the car for half that maybe
>more. i would part the car out if i could afford to but i thought i
>would try this first. i have doors, 1 extra hood, bumpers front and
>back, factory a/c parts, tooo many parts to list. well, contact me
>here for more info... oh yeah, i live in northern kentucky about 10
>minutes from downtown cincinnati, ohio. this would be a good start for
>someone on a project. thanks. 

AGAIN.... the seller's e-mail is d1dmos@yahoo.com

DO NOT contact me, I know nothing bout the car or seller.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 15:43:09 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Autozone $29.99 Olds water pump (WP-455HD & D130-1260P) -

At 10:29 AM 7/17/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I don't know particularly what AZ or advance's computer looks like, 
>but for staples [another big retailer] the zip code is for shipping 
>info, actuall stock availability simply pulls from a warehouse...a 
>lot of people think it comes from store stock, but it doesn't [5.5 
>year staples employee]

The AZ and Advance web sites specifically say you can "search local store
stock". The parts listings even have a symbol that's supposed to indicate
availability at that store. Usually, it's accurate but what I've found,
sometimes especially with Advance, is the local store has even more
(usually wider variety from more suppliers) than what the web site indicates.

I use the web site primarily for price and part number info; I can
sometimes get a better idea if a listing is what I'm looking for instead of
having the clerk bring one after another from the shelves.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 13:22:57 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FW: forged crank found in 68 Big Car

>From: "Tom Atencio" <tom442@comcast.net>
>To: <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: forged crank block data
>Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 05:56:13 -0600
>
>Hey Chris,
>Here is the info off the 68 455 I removed from a delta convertible.

Block VIN derivative stamping: 38M168046
=========================
3= Oldsmobile car
_8= 1968 model year
__M = Lansing assembly plant
___168046 = the 68,046th or so unit off the line.


Block 396021F
Rear of the block has 8 and F1.
======================
Usual 455 block. Typically, the rear says "68 F_" - did you miss a 6"
PS the F1 block is coveted by folks due to the unsubstantiated rumor that F0 
and F1 blocks are somehow better. Heck, maybe that's where forged cranks are 
found!


By the distributor it shows 292 CFD.
=========
Cast on day 292 = October 19th or so.
CFD - Central Foundry Division of GM.



The two barrel carb has its purplish tag on it still that reads 7028159 and 
K7 RF.
=================
28 = 1968
__159 = Olds big block


I Think I took some numbers off the car itself and will have to look around 
for them.
>Tom in Denver
>68 442 convt
>70 F85
>98 Aurora
=================
Any more #'s would be great
Body tag info would be nice, we know the VIN already from model and engine 
VIN derivative stamping.

Thanks for sharing, I fwd'd this to the email list too- in case anyone cares 
where to find Forged crank 455's.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 14:57:15 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: seeking 66 F85-Cutlass-442 REAR BUMPER and OAI air cleaner

Just posted this on 442.com:

Seeking exceptionally nice _REAR BUMPER_ for the 1966 442, Cutlass, or F-85. 
Chrome need not be perfect, but must have minimal or no denting, and no 
rust-thru of course. NOS would be great, though not likely to happen. 
Granny's car that has never been hit or mangled by "Lo-Damage" towing 
service would be OK. Cash or trade parts.

Also need that 1966 W-30 AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY, yeah, the big chrome OAI unit 
that covers all three carbs. On the infinitesimal chance that one shows up, 
EVER, please give me a call. I would even be happy with a RENTAL of your air 
cleaner for a short time when my Special Project car gets done [looks like 
years down the road]- you retain ownership of the part, just let me use it 
to display my setup one time. Thanks!

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 19:20:03 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: A4/A5 on a 260

AHHA: re my question the other day prompted by an e-mail from a Bob
Johnson, who wanted to know whether a 307 4 bbl intake could be installed
on a 260; the following is from the Olds FAQ at
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm#HEADS%201964%20-
%201990%20Head%20general

"The 260 heads have water jacket holes in between the intake ports. The
orig. 2bbl intake covers them. I found this out using a mid 70's 4bbl
intake (trying to make it perform at least a little!). When I filled the
coolant back up, it kinda went everywhere. I swore a lot, and put the
DualJet intake back on.

The moral of story? If you put 260 heads on anything (besides the garage
floor) double check that all water ports are covered or plugged!

In my experience, the 260's girly-ports are matched by the later 307. Both
have external port shapes that are rounded, whereas others have a squared
external port shape. So, the 260 heads should "work", if you can call it
that, on a 307."

And guess who is given credit for the above words of pearly wisdom.... none
other than our favorite oldsmagnet, Charley Buehner and Chris Witt  ;o))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 16:39:44 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: SX value and performance opinions wanted

> ----- Original Message ----- 

> The SX came with a standard gear ratio of 2.56. While they are nice
> cars, I  wouldn't pay 442 money for it. They are not 442's in sheep's
> clothing. I have done a little research on the SX and have found them
> to be a Cutlass with a 455 & turbo 400 trans and a cutout bumper. They
> could be ordered with most of the 442 options, but the drive train is
> not a performance combination.  If you want a 71 442 convertible, I
> would wait till you find the right car instead of settling for a SX.
> Cars you plan to keep always take some time to find the right car and
> usually worth the wait. 

OK, I must disagree with this. First of all, it is not a Cutlass with a
455, it's a Supreme. That means you get a few more niceties, those nice
lower bodyside moldings, and on the hardtops, a different roofline. The
engine is virtually the same with most of the difference being in the cam,
but still producing more than enough power. Yeah, if you want 3.90 rear
gears it's not what you want, but for most purposes - especially the way
most of us drive these cars these days - the SX is probably a better
choice. I would gladly "settle" for a '71 SX convertible any day.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 19:44:20 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Frod 289 Valve Seals???

So, I'm renewing the valve cover seals on my '88 307 today. It occurs to me
that maybe, I could even change the valve seals fairly quickly.... if I had
them.

So I go to NAPA (I rather doubt either AZ or Advance is gonna have valve
seals for a '64-'68 Frod engine, eh) and lo and behold..... turns out
there's different-length umbrellas for the 289: a short one for the exhaust
valves that looks about 1/2" long, and a longer one for the intake valves
that's much longer. Seems to me the exhaust ones were what folks have been
using but can't rember. Either way, this particular NAPA only had one set
(eight) of either intake or exhaust seals.

Anyone know which to use? Anyone actually got a PN? The PNs I got off the
boxes are SS 13364-1 for the long intakes and SS 72562 for the short
exhaust seals. I forgot to note but believe these were Felpro.

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 15:53:35 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: More on the scrap experimental Diesel engine

Well, it's experimental allright
Found in the scrap metal yard.
In case this sort of oddball thing excites anyone besides me...

Large flat plate where water pump should be caught my eye
No heads
Pistons have HOLES in them
not like hammered holes, but like carefully machined holes. ???
"Lifters" are odd looking AL plugs with a spherical top with a hole thru it. 
???
Except for two actual roller lifters.

Better buy it
Block casting ID "D2" at the front [no 6-digit at all], "3EE-31487" on the 
bellhouse. Machined pad at left REAR of the block just under the deck 
surface bears stamping "1-63483" and "B-3" There is a starter support boss 
and a Manual Trans Z-bar ball boss.
Bump over timing area to accomodate Diesel pump drive [blocked off with 
plate]
Reminds me of the W43 block

Block clearanced  for longer stroke?? cast crank... Looks like the puny 
pistons of a 260 Diesel, and maybe 3" mains like a 350 Diesel. The main caps 
have huge ribs for stiffness, like a big block cap.
   The 7 pistons it has are all drilled. One missing piston- #8- is where 
the lifters are. That cylinder is sleeved also. Pistons do not appear to 
come within oh 1/4 to 1/2" of the deck? That might explain what appears to 
be a very long stroke- piston can be as far as 3.8" [by tape measure] down 
the hole- with std SB stroke of 3.385, piston should only go 3.3-3.4 or so 
down, therefore, the pistons or rods must be custom shorties. Probably 
ringless custom pistons. Rods are nondescript except that they bear some 
etched numerical clues, not recorded as yet.

Typical Diesel balancer, timing cover. Balancer has reflective tape for 
testing rig's tach reading

Block to head dowels in some strange places- not just the usual bosses along 
the top.
Crank is Deep-C notch, drilled for MT use. Odd AL plug in camshaft rear 
hole, no F-whatever casting in rear face of block.

"Lifter" plugs are indeed nothing but o-ringed plugs used to block oil flow. 
Simple steel bar holds the anti-rotational plate on the 2 real lifters, the 
usual "spider" is not present. Strange shrouding built up around the lifters 
for some reason- retain oil there perhaps? The roller type cam has all its 
lobes, though I suppose they might not be all identical. Single row roller 
chain timing set.

Water pump blockoff plate is about 3/4" thick, not sure if steel or AL yet. 
Fitted with one water connection, on LH side, looks like 3/4" pipe.

Head gaskets had been applied by Mr. Silicone himself it appears.

I am guessing that it was driven by a motor- thus no need for an injection 
pump- and used to test air flow, power consumption, and whatnot for various 
heads, maybe cam profiles, etc. Wear out the one bore you're using? No 
problem, replace the sleeve. Oil system had to be operable to oil the thing 
and perhaps to draw power as it should. Huge piston holes and recessed 
pistons would retain balance and drag characteristics but w/o the airflow 
and valve complications that another 7 cylinders of real diesel compression 
would have provided.

Photos can be provided to interested parties via email. Please specify what 
you'd like to see.

I wonder if a 425 crank can be fitted in there and make a long stroke 300? 
CID roller cammed Gas engine... Meanwhile it makes a damn fine addition to 
the Personal Museum.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 16:35:08 -0400
From: "w-machines" <w-machines@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: dwell meter

No sir, you are not the last one.  I have a JCPenny dwell meter and also a
Mac Tool dwell meter.  Of course both meters have rpm and voltage.
regards WMACHINES
72 98 LS converter to Petronix
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: "olds list" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: dwell meter


> (snip) Am I the last one here to own a dwell meter? The last to know how
> to set points gap correctly when your dewll meter is not available or
> functional? [no, not by the gap of the points]
>
> No chris you are not the last one to own a dwell meter. Two of my cars
> still have points.
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 18:47:35 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: More on the scrap experimental Diesel engine

17 Jul 2004  "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com> writes:
> Well, it's experimental allright

> Meanwhile it makes a damn fine addition to the Personal Museum.

> Chris Witt

I guess I don't need to feel bad about some of the stuff in my museum.

Bruce Roe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2004 17:04:19 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: '67 Supreme convert pics

>Vinny, and anybody else that may be interested---We have pics of the '67 
>Cutlass Supreme I just finished up.  The link 
>is:         http://www.members.cox.net/varleyequipment/pics2.html


Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4954
*********************************
