
oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, July 14 2004      Volume 01 : Number 4950



Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...
Re: too big a cam?
34 olds resto
Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...
Re: too big a cam?
Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...
Re: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass
Re: too big a cam?
Re: too big a cam?
Re: too big a cam?
Re: Hurst Dual Gate shifter conversion to 4 speed auto
Re: new find - rare engine
Re: numbers matched info needed
out with the old.  in with the .... older
[Fwd: steering wheel restoration]
Re: too big a cam?
Re: steering wheel restoration]
RE: steering wheel restoration]
'74, '76, and '79 442 Owners?
Re: too big a cam?
Re: steering wheel restoration]
Endicott Estate pics
Re: steering wheel restoration]
Re: steering wheel restoration]
Bob Anderson
RE: numbers matched info needed
RE: Numbers matching, this time transmissions.
Re: Electric fuel pump install
RE: dist cap/phasing?/long

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 10:31:23 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...

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Pardon my obvious ignorance, but I thought the housings were different 
lengths (not to mention the Chevy rotates the opposite direction).
                                                        Big Dummy Forsee
                                                        65-442 Orig Owner

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Pardon my obvious ignorance, but I=20=
thought the housings were different lengths (not to mention the Chevy rotate=
s the opposite direction).<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  Big Dummy Forsee<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  65-442 Orig Owner</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 10:41:01 -0400
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

Matt,

Most likely your carb is too rich. I had the same issue with my 455 in the
'85 Cutlass. I was running the original electronic q-jet with all the
electronics disconnected and it would not pass emissions. Basicaly since
everything was disconnected it was running in a super rich "limp home" mode.
I switched to a stock '76 q-jet and it passed emissions with flying colors.
( I also have dual cats on the exhaust) but your HC are coming from the
extra fuel. If you're using an older q-jet make sure you epoxy the fuel
wells too. As dripping fuel from the old plugs will compound the situation.

Bill Reilly
willaim.reilly@comcast.net
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000"


> Hi all,
> I'm having a problem with too much of the  Hc in the exhaust, from 1000 to
> 1500 ppm, well beyond the top tolerated value of 800.

> Well, the Q is about the cam - is it too big or not?
> TIA
> Matt
> 468ci...
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 07:56:44 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: 34 olds resto

Can anyone help this person below? Email them direct plz.
Thnx.






From: Joyce K [mailto:gramjoyce@derbyworks.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 6:55 PM
To: HelpOldsNet@Oldsmobile.net
Subject: 1934 L-34



Hi, I'm not sure if I have the right contact or not, but I have a 1934
Oldsmobile, L-34,
convertible, dual sidemounts, rumble seat, completely restored.  I'm trying
to do some
research on it and not certain where to begin.  Any advice would be
appreciated.
Thanks!  Joyce 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 07:58:51 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...

Yeah, that's what I said in the previous post. Each line listed of engines
was a completely separate distributor configuration.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...


> Pardon my obvious ignorance, but I thought the housings were different
> lengths (not to mention the Chevy rotates the opposite direction).
>                                                         Big Dummy Forsee
>                                                         65-442 Orig Owner
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 11:00:58 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

Bill, if the car is set too rich it would set the CO very high, I had this
probleme when using the 260ci - MCS was not working stuck in the high
position. The idle was perfect, but the 2500rpm was awfull, 200-300 of Hc
and almost 10% of CO... very poisonous indeed. Dripping fuel would burn
anyway, possible giving a too rich condition at idle but not at 2500rpm.
With the 260 I switched to a classic dualjet and passed the test ok - even
running very lean, almost overheating so lean it was. BTW, I'm using the 76
Qjet as well... from a 455 Brougham.
thanks and regards
Matt


> Matt,
>
> Most likely your carb is too rich. I had the same issue with my 455 in the
> '85 Cutlass. I was running the original electronic q-jet with all the
> electronics disconnected and it would not pass emissions. Basicaly since
> everything was disconnected it was running in a super rich "limp home"
mode.
> I switched to a stock '76 q-jet and it passed emissions with flying
colors.
> ( I also have dual cats on the exhaust) but your HC are coming from the
> extra fuel. If you're using an older q-jet make sure you epoxy the fuel
> wells too. As dripping fuel from the old plugs will compound the
situation.
>
> Bill Reilly
> willaim.reilly@comcast.net
>
> > Hi all,
> > I'm having a problem with too much of the  Hc in the exhaust, from 1000
to
> > 1500 ppm, well beyond the top tolerated value of 800.
>
> > Well, the Q is about the cam - is it too big or not?
> > TIA
> > Matt
> > 468ci...
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 11:05:34 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: distributor placement, various GM engines...

- --part1_1d2.25c37efa.2e25543e_boundary
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Guess it would have made me less ignorant if I had read your previous posts, 
eh Milt?
                                                 
                                                        Less Ignorant Forsee
                                                        65-442 Orig. Owner

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><HTML><FONT  SIZE=3D2 PTSIZE=3D10 FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Guess it would have made me less ig=
norant if I had read your previous posts, eh Milt?<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
 <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  Less Ignorant Forsee<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =20=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  65-442 Orig. Owner</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 15:09:14 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Yellow Interior, 67 Cutlass

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_19232_1089731354_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

>Anyone have any info I can forward to this gentleman? 

http://www.smsautofabrics.com/
Paul
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Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<P>&gt;Anyone have any info I can forward to this gentleman? <BR><BR><A href="http://www.smsautofabrics.com/">http://www.smsautofabrics.com/</A></P>
<P>Paul</P></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_19232_1089731354_0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 11:15:19 -0400
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

Sorry about that Matt. you are correct about the CO. I was going from memory
and I should have looked back on my paperwork from the emissions test.

Bill

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000"


> Bill, if the car is set too rich it would set the CO very high, I had this
> probleme when using the 260ci - MCS was not

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 11:09:11 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

BTW, I'm using the 76
> Qjet as well... from a 455 Brougham.

How much vacuum are you pulling?  If you have a stock '76 QJ, remember that
these were set up for a stock cam that pulled 21" of vacuum at idle.  If you
are pulling a lot less vacuum than stock, you may not have enough to
overcome the power piston spring and pull the piston down in its bore
leaning the mixture out.  Time for a softer spring.  The APT adjustment on
the carb could also be off if it has ever been tampered with.  Not too hard
to sort out at home.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:26:23 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

Unburned fuel going out the tailpipe raises the HC out the tailpipe. Being
too rich can easily cause unburned fuel to leave the tailpipe. Having
insufficient spark to ignite all the air/fuel mix can easily cause unburned
fuel to leave the tailpipe. Or both working together will raise the HC.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: too big a cam?


> Bill, if the car is set too rich it would set the CO very high, I had this
> probleme when using the 260ci - MCS was not working stuck in the high
> position. The idle was perfect, but the 2500rpm was awfull, 200-300 of Hc
> and almost 10% of CO... very poisonous indeed. Dripping fuel would burn
> anyway, possible giving a too rich condition at idle but not at 2500rpm.
> With the 260 I switched to a classic dualjet and passed the test ok - even
> running very lean, almost overheating so lean it was. BTW, I'm using the
76
> Qjet as well... from a 455 Brougham.
> thanks and regards
> Matt
>
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > Most likely your carb is too rich. I had the same issue with my 455 in
the
> > '85 Cutlass. I was running the original electronic q-jet with all the
> > electronics disconnected and it would not pass emissions. Basicaly since
> > everything was disconnected it was running in a super rich "limp home"
> mode.
> > I switched to a stock '76 q-jet and it passed emissions with flying
> colors.
> > ( I also have dual cats on the exhaust) but your HC are coming from the
> > extra fuel. If you're using an older q-jet make sure you epoxy the fuel
> > wells too. As dripping fuel from the old plugs will compound the
> situation.
> >
> > Bill Reilly
> > willaim.reilly@comcast.net
> >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I'm having a problem with too much of the  Hc in the exhaust, from
1000
> to
> > > 1500 ppm, well beyond the top tolerated value of 800.
> >
> > > Well, the Q is about the cam - is it too big or not?
> > > TIA
> > > Matt
> > > 468ci...
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:59:08 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Dual Gate shifter conversion to 4 speed auto

> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 21:45:32 +0000
> From: 77w30442@comcast.net
> Subject: Re: Hurst Dual Gate shifter conversion to 4 speed auto
> 
> hurst makes a 4 speed dual gate and it fits factory 3 speed 
> aplications
> ron

Wow! I didn't know that was available. I'm definitely going to look into this more.

Thanks, Ron!

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 09:03:26 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: new find - rare engine

> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 13:01:01 -0400
> From: Mearl Francis <mearl.francis@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: new find - rare engine
> 
> I have a  CS with a 1969 350 Rocket Engine in it now. The heads are
> stamped #6. Are these the corect heads? I know they had head work done
> before i got the car. Are these heads good/bad??
> Thanks
> Mearl

#5 heads were used in 1968 and 1969, and #6 heads were used in 1970, so it looks like someone put "new" heads on it at some point, or maybe the entire engine was swapped. Since the '68, '69 and '70 350s were all rated the exact same horsepower and torque, and the #5 and #6 heads are very nearly the same, you're not missing out on anything other than 100% originality. And yes, the #6 heads are very good heads.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 09:27:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: numbers matched info needed

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>   The vin derivative stamping for an Oldsmobile starts with 3.  For 
> example, 39M123456  breaks down as follows
>3=oldsmobile
>9=year of manufacture, in this case 1969
>M=Lansing, MI  the assembly plant
>123456=the last 6 digits of the VIN

The whole vin doesn't make it onto the engine Chris. What I'd have in 
that 
example above is only 8 digits: 9M123456. So, my engine vin derivative 
starts with the YEAR, not the DIVISION. ;)

So, in your example, if it would be a 455, you could say that it was a 
1969 
engine, put in the car in Lansing. Likely, unless it was a h/o engine, 
it 
would have come in a big car.

George
- --------------------------
George,
I'm VERY aware the WHOLE vin doesn't make it onto the engine.  The number I used in my example is NOWHERE close to the whole vin.  But the number does indeed start with 3 for Olds NOT the last digit of the year.  (could yours have been a service replacement (SR) block?)  That is unless I have the ONLY 69 W-31 with it's original engine and it starts with 3 (one of NONE, I knew the car was rare, but damn).  In fact, I have several other engines (69 350, 68 350, 68 455) and they all start with 3, not 8 or 9.
 
someone used to have a vin derivative stamping pic on their website (John Nasta?  Cliff 'insert cool name here' Simpson?  you George?).  Let's check it out as it would settle the debate.  I have pics of the stamping on my W-31 engine, but it's not posted on the web.  In fact, the pic is probably sitting on the CD in my laptop which is sitting right here next to me.  
 
George, your 71 455 would be 31R999999, which break down just like I stated previously, except the R is I'm guessing the Arlington, Texas plant.  And of course this number tells nothing about what car the engine was put in or the size of the engine.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 

		
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New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
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<DIV>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp; The vin derivative stamping for an Oldsmobile starts with 3.&nbsp; For <BR>&gt; example, 39M123456&nbsp; breaks down as follows<BR>&gt;3=oldsmobile<BR>&gt;9=year of manufacture, in this case 1969<BR>&gt;M=Lansing, MI&nbsp; the assembly plant<BR>&gt;123456=the last 6 digits of the VIN<BR><BR>The whole vin doesn't make it onto the engine Chris. What I'd have in <BR>that <BR>example above is only 8 digits: 9M123456. So, my engine vin derivative <BR>starts with the YEAR, not the DIVISION. ;)<BR><BR>So, in your example, if it would be a 455, you could say that it was a <BR>1969 <BR>engine, put in the car in Lansing. Likely, unless it was a h/o engine, <BR>it <BR>would have come in a big car.<BR><BR>George<BR>--------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>George,</DIV>
<DIV>I'm VERY aware the WHOLE vin doesn't make it onto the engine.&nbsp; The number I used in my example is NOWHERE close to the whole vin.&nbsp; But the number does indeed start with 3 for Olds NOT the last digit of the year.&nbsp; (could yours have been a service replacement&nbsp;(SR) block?)&nbsp; That is unless I have the ONLY 69 W-31 with it's original engine and it starts with 3 (one of NONE, I knew the car was rare, but damn).&nbsp; In fact, I have several other engines (69 350, 68 350, 68 455) and they all start with 3, not 8 or 9.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>someone used to have a vin derivative stamping pic on their website (John Nasta?&nbsp; Cliff 'insert cool name here' Simpson?&nbsp; you George?).&nbsp; Let's check it out as it would settle the debate.&nbsp; I have pics of the stamping on my W-31 engine, but it's not posted on the web.&nbsp; In fact, the pic is probably sitting on the CD in my laptop which is&nbsp;sitting right here next to me.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>George, your 71 455 would be 31R999999, which break down just like I stated previously, except the R is I'm guessing the Arlington, Texas plant.&nbsp; And of course this number tells nothing about what car&nbsp;the engine&nbsp;was put in or the size of the engine.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 09:39:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: out with the old.  in with the .... older

- --0-28580732-1089736752=:86136
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Greetings,
Well, the transformation of my W-31 (or resurrecting the dead as it might be called) has been a little slow.  The engine and tranny are about ready to come out, just have a few connections left to undo.  Last night I finished swapping brakes on my 68 4.33 rear axle and the original 69 3.91 rear axle came out (and it's currently sitting in my truck).  This week I'm planning/hoping to 1.unbolt the head pipes from the manifolds and completely remove the old exhaust 2.fix the fuel line which has been somewhat a pain in the butt 3.reinstall the rear axle 4.finish the removal of the final connections the drivetrain has to the car.  After that I can yank out the 73 455 and 69 JO coded TH350 (my original tranny) and start another phase.  I'm replacing front brake lines, cleaning and detailing the tranny and may even install the NOS vacuum modulator I picked up from a friend at the H/O meet this past weekend.
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
1969 Cutlass S W-31 (currently sitting on the Dr.'s operating table)

		
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New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
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<DIV>Greetings,</DIV>
<DIV>Well, the transformation of my W-31 (or resurrecting the dead as it might be called) has been a little slow.&nbsp; The engine and tranny&nbsp;are about ready to come out, just have a few connections left to undo.&nbsp; Last night I finished swapping brakes on my 68 4.33 rear axle and the original 69 3.91 rear axle came out (and it's currently sitting in my truck).&nbsp; This week I'm planning/hoping to 1.unbolt the head pipes from the manifolds and completely remove the old exhaust 2.fix the fuel line which has been somewhat a pain in the butt 3.reinstall the rear axle 4.finish the removal of the final connections the drivetrain has to the car.&nbsp;&nbsp;After that&nbsp;I can yank out the 73 455 and 69 JO coded TH350 (my original tranny) and start another phase.&nbsp; I'm replacing front brake lines, cleaning and detailing the tranny and may even install the NOS vacuum modulator I picked up from a friend at the H/O meet this past weekend.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1969 Cutlass S W-31 (currently sitting on the Dr.'s operating table)</DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/10/*http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail/static/efficiency.html">New and Improved Yahoo! Mail</a> - Send 10MB messages!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 12:51:06 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: [Fwd: steering wheel restoration]

- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: steering wheel restoration
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2004 06:37:34 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: toro list <thelist@toronado.net>

Hi All
    Anyone know anyone who can restore a rim-blow steering wheel?
A google search turned up some ford restorers and I am waiting for an
e-mail response to an inquiry. I thought someone might already know of a
shop or person who does this
thanks
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:31:37 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

Fred, what ATP is?
TIA
rgds
Matt

> The APT adjustment on
> the carb could also be off if it has ever been tampered with.  Not too
hard
> to sort out at home.
>
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:52:55 -0400
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel restoration]

john,
 there was a guy in Plant City (I think) someplace out side of Tampa, I can
find out if he is still around, did my father in-law's 66 Honda drop top
wheel, and there is only 5 of them in the US.... did a real nice job, all he
does is steering wheels.
john
67 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:19:33 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: steering wheel restoration]

Check Google for Gary's Steering Wheel Restoration. I spoke w/ him at the
Nats in NJ a few years ago and he said he can usually repair a rim-blow
wheel.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of JOHN ORR
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 1:53 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: steering wheel restoration]

john,
 there was a guy in Plant City (I think) someplace out side of Tampa, I can
find out if he is still around, did my father in-law's 66 Honda drop top
wheel, and there is only 5 of them in the US.... did a real nice job, all he
does is steering wheels.
john
67 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 13:22:26 -0500
From: "Doug Newman" <newmand@oldsgmail.com>
Subject: '74, '76, and '79 442 Owners?

Hi All, 

Thanks to a gentleman here on the "Classic" list who owns one, a 1980
442 has been found to appear on Brad Bishop's poster.  These next three
may be as difficult to locate.  He needs an example of a 1974, a 1976,
and a 1979 442.  He's got one or more submissions for all other years
from '64 - '80 and '85 - '87.  I'd originally tried giving him contact
info for owners of the "missing links" from the 2003 OCA Directory, but
he never heard back from any of the '74 and '76 owners, and there wasn't
a listing for a '79 Salon 442 in the entire directory.  

Once again, If anybody owns a 1974, a 1976, or a 1979 442; or you know
of someone who happens to own one and has access to a digital camera,
please contact Brad Bishop at both of the following addresses:

((Work)  mailto:BishopB@themarketingarm.com

(Home)  mailto:brad@batcreative.com

Or you can contact me off-list at mailto:newmand@oldsgmail.com.

The following is Brad's ad that appears in the July issue of JWO.  If
anyone needs to see an example of the required 3/4 angle mentioned in
the text, please contact me off-list and I'll send you a low-res JPG of
what he needs.

Thanks again to all, 

Doug Newman                  1987 442              OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS                    

http://store.oldsgmail.com                             The Store    
http://newmand.oldsgmail.com                       My Home Page   


This is the ad copy from this month's issue of Journey with Olds:

Hello fellow Olds lovers. Do you have a spot on your garage wall that
needs something? Not just anything, but something Oldsmobile? Well,
worry no more as the solution is in the works. Graphic designer and OCA
member, Brad Bishop and new OCA merchandise coordinator, Ralph Gaines
have teamed up for a series of commemorative Oldsmobile posters coming
soon to a Nationals near you. 

Our first poster will be a 442 "lineage" poster that will capture all
the models of the 442 from the first one in 1964 to the last V8 rear
wheel drive model in 1987. The estimated size will be 24" x 36" and it
will be full color. 

Here is where you come in, we need your car! That's right; we are
opening the poster up for people to submit pictures of their cars and a
chance to be on the poster. We need all of the 442 models: 1964, 1965,
1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977,
1978, 1979, 1980, 1985, 1986, 1987. Your car must appear stock in closed
form. It does not matter what it looks like under your hood, or if you
have gauges mounted under the dash, etc. With the hood, doors and trunk
closed, it looks stock, including the wheels. The color of your car does
not matter either, just as long as it is a stock appearing color. 

The following are guidelines that must be followed. Any car submissions
that do not follow these guidelines will not be considered. Please
follow them carefully. 

A. All pictures of cars submitted must be taken from the front driver's
side corner at a three quarter angle shot. *Please see the image below
for reference. (*I sent you the shot of my car in the previous note that
shows the "just right" angle.) 

B. Please be aware of reflections in your car's paint. The best way to
shoot your car is on an empty parking lot or road. The background will
not be included on the poster, your car will be stripped out, so be
conscious of the reflections and surroundings. 

C. All hoods, doors and trunks closed. No pictures of you with your car.
Your name will be on the poster under you car if yours is selected. 

D. Digital submissions are preferred and must follow this criteria: No
smaller than 1600 x 1200 pixel width at 72 dpi (dots per inch). Or,
6.75" x 5" @ 300 dpi. Basically, the larger the image, the better the
picture, as we will be scaling the images down in size. You can mail us
the image on a CD Rom or e-mail it to us. This will save some time. 

E. For print submissions: 8" x 10" color prints only. If we receive a 4"
x 6" or 3" x 5", we will lose too much detail and cannot use these. All
color prints will be returned to their owners! 

Your car does not have to be a perfect, best of class winner to be on
this poster. It must be a nice, stock appearing, presentable Oldsmobile.
We want everyone to participate. Although the true muscle car
performance didn't survive much after 1971, the 442 namesake did and we
want to capture that with this poster. 

We are under a tight timeline here as we are trying to have this ready
for the Nationals in Minnesota. Our deadline for photo submissions is:
July 27, 2004. Sorry, no exceptions. We have to allow for prepress and
printing time. Any submissions after this date cannot be considered. 

If you have any further questions, please feel free to send an email or
to email your entry: 

((Work)  mailto:BishopB@themarketingarm.com

(Home)  mailto:brad@batcreative.com

Address for mailing pictures: 
Brad Bishop 
10547 Solta Dr. 
Dallas, TX 75218

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:24:18 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: too big a cam?

> Fred, what ATP is?

Adjustable part throttle.  Controls how far down in the jets the metering
rods can travel.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 15:16:35 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: steering wheel restoration]

John Nasta wrote:
> Check Google for Gary's Steering Wheel Restoration. I spoke w/ him at the
> Nats in NJ a few years ago and he said he can usually repair a rim-blow
> wheel.
> 
> John Nasta
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of JOHN ORR
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 1:53 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: steering wheel restoration]
> 
> john,
>  there was a guy in Plant City (I think) someplace out side of Tampa, I can
> find out if he is still around, did my father in-law's 66 Honda drop top
> wheel, and there is only 5 of them in the US.... did a real nice job, all he
> does is steering wheels.
> john
> 67 cutlass supreme
> 
> 
> 
Thanks Guys
    I did contact Gary's. He said no rib blow wheels
If you can find the  Plant city guy Drop me a line
thanks again
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 15:55:22 -0400
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: Endicott Estate pics

Hi all,

Managed to get to the Endicott Estate car show in Dedham, MA this past
Sunday, albeit a bit late.  A nice showing of Olds by the New England Olds
Club.  I didn't get a chance to catch all of them, nor do I know any details
as owners were scarce.  If anyone wants a full-size image, let me know.

http://megatron.stonehill.edu/images/endicottestate04/

Server allows only 10 connections at a time, so click back later if busy.

 ~ Dan

PS - And a big, belated Thank You to Milton, SteveH and others who provided
excellent info on my tranny tailshaft question!

- -------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 4spd post
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:13:22 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: steering wheel restoration]

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_18618_1089749602_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit


>  I did contact Gary's. He said no rib blow wheels

Hmpf... then maybe he shouldn't advertise them on his website...
Paul
- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_18618_1089749602_0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<P><BR>&gt;&nbsp; I did contact Gary's. He said no rib blow wheels<BR><BR>Hmpf... then maybe he shouldn't advertise them on his website...</P>
<P>Paul</P></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_18618_1089749602_0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 16:54:40 -0400
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel restoration]

On Tuesday, July 13th, John Orr wrote

>...there was a guy in Plant City (I think) someplace out side of Tampa, I can
>find out if he is still around .....did a real nice job, all he does is 
>steering wheels.
>john
>67 cutlass supreme

Hi John,

I could use that guy's information also.  I have a 68 "plastic wood" wheel that 
needs repair.

Best wishes, 

Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 19:10:06 -0400
From: "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Bob Anderson

Anyone had any dealings with Bob Anderson in FL?  Seems to me I remember
hearing some not so positive things about him or his vehicles a few years
ago but can't recall for sure.

Kurt Heinrich
old442@adelphia.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:20:46 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: numbers matched info needed

And I didn't see anyone mention that this VIN derivative is also stamped on
the transmission starting in '68 too!

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Schopen, Kenneth
> Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 11:21 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: numbers matched info needed
>
>
> > Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 19:50:27 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: numbers matched info needed
> >
> > - --0-860328818-1089600627=:89610
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> >  From that you can tell it was assembled in TX. Also, the vin
> > derivative
> > starts with 1, which can only be 1971 on a 455, since the
> > weren't made
> > in
> > 61 or 81. So, if you'd have my 455 out of the 442 all by itself, you
> > could
> > say it was a 71 455 that came in a car which was assembled in
> > Tx. Hope
> >
> > George
> > - ----------------------
> > George,
> > A Chevy engine in your 442?!?!?!  SHAME ON YOU!!!!!!  The vin
> > derivative stamping for an Oldsmobile starts with 3.  For
> > example, 39M123456  breaks down as follows
> > 3=oldsmobile
> > 9=year of manufacture, in this case 1969
> > M=Lansing, MI  the assembly plant
> > 123456=the last 6 digits of the VIN
> >
> > Chris (no chevy engines in his Olds') Smetana
> > grp442@yahoo.com
>
> Another thing is that this numbering scheme came into use in
> 1968. Prior to that there was an engine assembly number stamped
> on the end of the right (passengers side) head, and this engine
> number had no relation to the vehicle VIN.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:32:00 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: RE: Numbers matching, this time transmissions.

You're out of luck trying to match the trans or the engine to the car
without paperwork (POP would do it for the engine)until '68.  Best you can
do is find date codes appropriate to the build date of the car.
Available first on approximately March 1st, 1965, was the M14 transmission.
This is the HD 3-speed (yes, F*rd!) transmission with a Hurst (yes, Hurst)
shifter.

Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Eric Beaupre
> Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 11:56 AM
> To: Oldsmobile@Chebucto. Ns. Ca
> Subject: Numbers matching, this time transmissions.
>
>
> I have a 65 442 and I'm trying to authenticate what I can.  I
> haven't found
> a build sheet or protecto plate.  My car came with a transmission that's
> consistent with the M-14 heavy duty 3-spd (console shift) option.
>  Would the
> trans be stamped with a VIN derivative number?  I know the motor isn't
> related to the VIN so I doubt the tranny is.  I've found some stamped
> numbers, anyone know where to decode those.  BTW it a Dearborn/F*rd
> toploader, which I'm told is correct.
>
> --
> Eric Beaupre
>
> Engineering
> eServ LLC
> 8200 N Allen Rd
> Peoria, IL 61615
> ofc: 309-691-4957 X1034
> fax: 309-691-4960
> cel: 309-453-3895
> eml: ebeaupre@eserv.biz
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 21:32:47 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump install

Here is a link to check regarding the oil pressure switch topic:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY-12-810&N=120%20300719

- -- 
Michael Ecker
Lehigh Acres, Florida
ecker567@comcast.net

1978 Cutlass Supreme - $500 purchase, being slowly fixed up
   (in line for V6-to-403 swap soon, and maybe 200-4R and gears...)

1979 Cutlass Supreme Brougham - becoming a circle track car
   (bought without title, had Certificate of Destruction so can never
    be re-registered, but will uphold the Oldsmobile name with honor)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2004 02:45:48 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
Subject: RE: dist cap/phasing?/long

bcroe@juno.com wrote:

>For some distributors, you can buy a transparent cap 
>to check that.  I have one for HEI.   Bruce Roe 
>
>12 Jul 2004  Cutlass7276@netscape.net writes:
>
>> I did hear tell of something today i have never done,,,phasing 
>> a dis. cap.   Take a old cap and drill/melt a hole in the top 
>> between #1 post and coil post.
>
Thanks Bruce....i phoned local nightmare store they gots a clear cap fer me 58 Olds.
After reading these articles i thought a cap with a hole is ok but if the cap your gonna use is phased diff..:O,,,,,,a clear cap makes sense for all the time use.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
The purpose is to return the rotor nose back to close proximity to the correct spark plug terminal when the ignition fires. 

Often times the rotor nose won't be anywhere near the terminal it was supposed to fire when the ignition lets go. 
If it's closer to the terminal behind, it will fire that cylinder on the exhaust stoke. 

If it's in between towers, it will multi-fire, two (or more) cylinders at once. 

If it's advanced of the tower it's supposed to be firing, it can fire the next cylinder in the firing order 90 Degrees too soon! With disastrous effects to your engine. 

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 

Get your advance where you want it, and check the rotor phasing. 
Lots of racers found they could add considerably more timing after getting the rotor back were it belongs... 
Advance means power most of the time 

 
>>
That's something that nobody normally thinks about. I've seen on scopes where the spark line - spark duration time - slopes upwards for unknown reasons, and sometimes slopes downward. Often that phenomenon started in the middle of the spark line. Sometimes replacing the cap and/or rotor helped, sometimes not. 
Obviously where it sloped up it was passed the terminal and was "pulling" the arc across the rotor gap, thereby increasing the voltage, sloping down was down just the opposite. 
Sometimes replacing the cap and/or rotor stopped it, sometimes not. 
Sometimes you can see where it wears the side of the terminals and/or rotor tip after some miles are on it. 

That sure explains it. 

Since it's not uncommon for the notch or alignment device on caps to be out of place, especially on the cheapie junk, it would probably be a good idea to use a quality cap to cut the hole in for the test too. Wouldn't be too fun to calibrate everything to the wrong place. 
 a friend with an old Dodge PU - old stump puller slant 6 - points type dist. His pattern sloped upward last I saw it, and it never seemed to run right above about 2500 or so. 
I put it on a scope again, same pattern as I remembered. I cut the hole and used the light, it was amazing how far off it was, it didn't even start to fire till it was way past the terminal, then "pulled" way out. 
I put on an old cap he had under the seat - same. 
Then he pulled out the old original distributor from under the seat too. It had been replaced with a "rebuilt" a few years ago. Even though it was rusty and looked terrible after I cleaned it up it was indexed right. 
Amazing - it no longer had that 2500 limit, ran great. 

We didn't have time to check, but I'll bet the gear was indexed wrong on the "rebuilt." 

Just shows "New" or "Rebuilt" doesn't mean it works. Cheapie stuff just increases the chances it won't be right.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>
This all sounds good but i would set timing at 25 degrees(halfway point my advance is 15*-36*) and adjust cap for rotor to point at terminal.
Then after setting timing back to normal and plug in vac advance i would rev motor and watch with timing light rotor move from behind post to the frt of post,hopefully evenly.
Im guessing the only way to move the cap is to adj.(mod.) the square peg on cap that fits into dis body?
Will try this tomorrow.
Good Luck!
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C. 
 



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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4950
*********************************
