
oldsmobile-digest        Monday, June 28 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4935



Re: Fuel requirement recap (GPH)
Bought another '64 Cutlass!!
Re: new msd
Re: new msd
Aurora f/s whole or parts
Re: new msd
Re: Dead blow hammer suppliers
RE: new msd
Re: new msd
Re: new msd
RE: new msd
Re: new msd
Re: new msd
RE: Fuel requirement recap (GPH)
new msd
OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.
Re: new msd
RE: Red clear fuel hosing
Pics of red fuel line on white 425
Re: Red clear fuel hosing
Re: Pics of red fuel line on white 425
Re: I need an engine for my 1970 Olds 98
More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end
RE: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end
Re: new msd
Re: new msd
Re: OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.
RE: OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.
Re: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 15:15:26 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel requirement recap (GPH)

Steve R.,

> Anyway, can someone describe how to determine the fuel requirements
> (GPH) for a particular engine?


Even an engine dyno will only give you an indication of fuel requirements.
The dyno ***will not*** tell you anything about the effort to pump the fuel
from the fuel tank up to the engine under acceleration. The fuel pump must
overcome acceleration affects. The only way I know for sure to determine the
minimum GPH is to first install a fuel pressure gauge in the car. Then, for
the drag strip, run the car through. Note the fuel pressure reading each
time you shift, or have someone ride with you to take the readings. You must
maintain the full 7 psi at the top of your engine's RPM range at each shift
point to be certain full fuel supply is arriving at the carb(s) and is
available for the engine. If the fuel pump can't keep up with your engine's
fuel demand, the fuel pressure ***will*** decrease. If you've got a lonely
stretch of road somewhere, that will suffice for a drag strip.

There are 2 ways to maintain adequate fuel pressure at the carb(s). First,
use a larger GPH pump or, with electric fuel pumps, use 2 pumps running in
parallel (which is my preferred method). Second, use a fuel pump with a 15+
psi pressure rating and use a pressure regulator. I don't like external
pressure regulators. I've never seen one that was 100% reliable under all
conditions.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 18:14:07 -0400
From: AnTiCr0mBi@aol.com
Subject: Bought another '64 Cutlass!!

Looks like a nice car...but for the price I wouldn't complain:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2482677751&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

I really don't know what I'll do with it, have to wait and see what the floors and everything are like. It might get parted out, I know I can use a few things on my daily. A lot of options too.

- -Eric Anderson
TWO '64 Cutlass 2-door hardtops!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 15:27:31 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: new msd

>   Could this thing really be pushing 50 degrees advanced without
detonation?


That would be very unlikely. Are you absolutely certain the crank timing
mark is perfectly aligned for "zero" at TDC firing?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 17:47:14 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

I have checked it in the past when I degreed the cam, I check it because I
know it happens. I would have to check it again to be certain it could have
sliped. AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich? I know it is a bit ruch but
it's not that bad. I want to get the timing down before I mess with the
carb. I don't like to have two things like that going at the same time when
one can affect the other.
I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance, mabey I'm
expecting too much. Like I said I never have used a non vacume distributor.
I may just need to up the idle some from the setting it was at with the
vacume distributor on it, then get the carb running right
Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: new msd


> >   Could this thing really be pushing 50 degrees advanced without
> detonation?
>
>
> That would be very unlikely. Are you absolutely certain the crank timing
> mark is perfectly aligned for "zero" at TDC firing?
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 20:39:44 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Aurora f/s whole or parts

Kurt's tripping over one of majordomo's magic words... one of those
so-called features that just annoys more than anything. Forwarding...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Aurora f/s whole or parts

I sent this about 2 weeks ago, got a few responses, went on vacati*n and
had a mail crash that wiped out the responses.  So here it goes again... 
The time has come to kill my Aurora, so if anyone needs some parts let me
know.  The body is in geat shape, with good paint (champagne), I have 2
new tires (<3000 miles on them).  The AC compressor seized and ended up
breaking the serpentine belt, so the car is not running as the belt drives
the alternator and p/s.  I'll sell the whole thing for $1000 obo or part
out.  I'm located in Frederick, MD. 

Kurt Heinrich
OCA# 30442
old442@adelphia.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 16:58:00 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: new msd

> AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
> smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich?


Should be a rich carb or the automatic choke will not unload.


> I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance,


Vacuum advance has no affect on the idle. The engine will idle just as good
with or without vacuum advance. If there's something not right with the
idle, having vacuum advance wouldn't make any difference.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 19:58:31 -0400
From: "John Orr" <olds330@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dead blow hammer suppliers

     Steve,
   I get mine from home depot   eastwing I think is the brand, and
yes I think sears has them also.
john
67 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 20:27:08 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: new msd

If you used to run a vac adv dizzy off manifold vac and then removed the vac
adv your at idle timing would drop considerably.  It would probably drop
enough to cause it to idle very rough.  I know mine does.

I think factory specs for my car (65 442) indicate to set the idle to 550
rpm at 10 BTDC with the vac adv unhooked.  After plugging the adv back in
the timing jumps up to 20-25 and it purrs like a kitten at 750 or so.

That is one of the challenges when trying to run without vac adv, getting a
smooth idle without adding so much initial timing that you're in trouble in
a high load/low speed situation.

Besides, who doesn't want vac adv, is this a strip car?

Eric

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space
Systems, Inc.
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:58 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: new msd


> AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
> smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich?


Should be a rich carb or the automatic choke will not unload.


> I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance,


Vacuum advance has no affect on the idle. The engine will idle just as good
with or without vacuum advance. If there's something not right with the
idle, having vacuum advance wouldn't make any difference.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 20:34:07 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

That's right. I forgot I noticed today that my vacume advace was mistakenly
hooked to unported vacume causing it to advance at idle.

I am thinking my timing mark is off on the balencer. It could have spun, it
is a new stock balencer but I think stock they are only rated for 5000 rpm
and I regularily have been at 6000 and ocasionally more than that (usually
on acident, I need a better shifter) I know I sliped into neautral today and
hit my 7300rpm rev limiter.

I gues I'l just go out there and keep advancing it untill it pings or won't
run. then back it off a few reguardless of what the balencer is telling me.
If the balencer mark is off  I'm not going to change it anyways since the
motor was balenced with it on. It's not an easy task to spin this motor over
by hand in a trans am. it's kinda tight in there and my knuckels will
complain for weeks if I do look into the timing marks theory.

Something I was just thinking of. I used the plastic timing indicator off
the original 403 on the 455 since I could not find the original one from the
455. Could this be giving me a wrong reading? They should be the same
shouldn't they?

Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: new msd


> > AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
> > smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich?
>
>
> Should be a rich carb or the automatic choke will not unload.
>
>
> > I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance,
>
>
> Vacuum advance has no affect on the idle. The engine will idle just as
good
> with or without vacuum advance. If there's something not right with the
> idle, having vacuum advance wouldn't make any difference.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 20:45:52 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

it's not a strip car but it is a high performance first car. It does not get
driven much and is driven pretty hard when it is driven. The rpm range is
about 2500 to 6000,a nd really doesn't get going good untill over 3000 so
it's not really a put around town car anyways
  I don't mind a rougher idle the car does not idle great anyways. It runs
smooth enough to not be anoying on the street  and that's about all I can
say about it
Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:27 PM
Subject: RE: new msd


> If you used to run a vac adv dizzy off manifold vac and then removed the
vac
> adv your at idle timing would drop considerably.  It would probably drop
> enough to cause it to idle very rough.  I know mine does.
>
> I think factory specs for my car (65 442) indicate to set the idle to 550
> rpm at 10 BTDC with the vac adv unhooked.  After plugging the adv back in
> the timing jumps up to 20-25 and it purrs like a kitten at 750 or so.
>
> That is one of the challenges when trying to run without vac adv, getting
a
> smooth idle without adding so much initial timing that you're in trouble
in
> a high load/low speed situation.
>
> Besides, who doesn't want vac adv, is this a strip car?
>
> Eric
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Infinite Space
> Systems, Inc.
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:58 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: new msd
>
>
> > AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
> > smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich?
>
>
> Should be a rich carb or the automatic choke will not unload.
>
>
> > I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance,
>
>
> Vacuum advance has no affect on the idle. The engine will idle just as
good
> with or without vacuum advance. If there's something not right with the
> idle, having vacuum advance wouldn't make any difference.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 20:51:24 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: new msd

I'm inclined to think that your vacuum advance was intentionally hooked to
manifold/unported vacuum, where it should be, in my opinion.  I've noticed
that alot of people on this list favor a ported source so I'll just leave
this one alone unless someone wants to jaw back and forth about it.

Eric

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Allen Schwartz
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:34 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: new msd


That's right. I forgot I noticed today that my vacume advace was mistakenly
hooked to unported vacume causing it to advance at idle.

I am thinking my timing mark is off on the balencer. It could have spun, it
is a new stock balencer but I think stock they are only rated for 5000 rpm
and I regularily have been at 6000 and ocasionally more than that (usually
on acident, I need a better shifter) I know I sliped into neautral today and
hit my 7300rpm rev limiter.

I gues I'l just go out there and keep advancing it untill it pings or won't
run. then back it off a few reguardless of what the balencer is telling me.
If the balencer mark is off  I'm not going to change it anyways since the
motor was balenced with it on. It's not an easy task to spin this motor over
by hand in a trans am. it's kinda tight in there and my knuckels will
complain for weeks if I do look into the timing marks theory.

Something I was just thinking of. I used the plastic timing indicator off
the original 403 on the 455 since I could not find the original one from the
455. Could this be giving me a wrong reading? They should be the same
shouldn't they?

Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: new msd


> > AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
> > smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich?
>
>
> Should be a rich carb or the automatic choke will not unload.
>
>
> > I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance,
>
>
> Vacuum advance has no affect on the idle. The engine will idle just as
good
> with or without vacuum advance. If there's something not right with the
> idle, having vacuum advance wouldn't make any difference.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:02:07 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

I have always gotten conflicting answers on which vacume source myself
Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: RE: new msd


> I'm inclined to think that your vacuum advance was intentionally hooked to
> manifold/unported vacuum, where it should be, in my opinion.  I've noticed
> that alot of people on this list favor a ported source so I'll just leave
> this one alone unless someone wants to jaw back and forth about it.
>
> Eric
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Allen Schwartz
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:34 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: new msd
>
>
> That's right. I forgot I noticed today that my vacume advace was
mistakenly
> hooked to unported vacume causing it to advance at idle.
>
> I am thinking my timing mark is off on the balencer. It could have spun,
it
> is a new stock balencer but I think stock they are only rated for 5000 rpm
> and I regularily have been at 6000 and ocasionally more than that (usually
> on acident, I need a better shifter) I know I sliped into neautral today
and
> hit my 7300rpm rev limiter.
>
> I gues I'l just go out there and keep advancing it untill it pings or
won't
> run. then back it off a few reguardless of what the balencer is telling
me.
> If the balencer mark is off  I'm not going to change it anyways since the
> motor was balenced with it on. It's not an easy task to spin this motor
over
> by hand in a trans am. it's kinda tight in there and my knuckels will
> complain for weeks if I do look into the timing marks theory.
>
> Something I was just thinking of. I used the plastic timing indicator off
> the original 403 on the 455 since I could not find the original one from
the
> 455. Could this be giving me a wrong reading? They should be the same
> shouldn't they?
>
> Allen Schwartz
> A&L Enterprises
> mycj@tds.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:58 PM
> Subject: Re: new msd
>
>
> > > AM I wrong in thinking it is retarded when it's putting out black
> > > smoke at idle or could it just be way too rich?
> >
> >
> > Should be a rich carb or the automatic choke will not unload.
> >
> >
> > > I guess I can not expect it to idle great without vacume advance,
> >
> >
> > Vacuum advance has no affect on the idle. The engine will idle just as
> good
> > with or without vacuum advance. If there's something not right with the
> > idle, having vacuum advance wouldn't make any difference.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 23:06:18 -0400
From: Michael Ecker <ecker567@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

"Could this thing really be pushing 50 degrees advanced without detonation?"

Allen, one of the Olds 350's I had in the past had a welded advance mechanism, so the timing was strictly set at the distributor.  My timing light burned out once and I set the timing using the "advance a little, listen for knocks, advance a little more.... finally hear knocking so back it down a little to make knocking go away" method.  Ran very well but was a bear to start, especially hot (had the distributor power wired through a toggle, so would crank the engine up to speed and then fire the distributor to start the thing).... got another timing light (Craftsmen dial-back type) a few days later and checked it - was running over 50 degrees advance.  So the short answer is yes, it is possible.

Now.....  if I were a betting man I would bet that your outer balancer ring has slipped on the hub, so that the mark is actually several degrees retarded as compared to the timing tab.  This really needs to be checked by positively locating top dead center for the piston and comparing to the timing mark/timing tab positioning.  If the balancer is or has slipped, it should be replaced immediately (before it completely comes apart!)

Oh, and I would not sell the Mallory pump as it is several years old and I would not want the diaphragm to rupture when someone that I sold it to was using it.  I will look and see - I may have an extra Holley chrome mechanical 80 gph pump in the garage.  I'll let you know. 

- -- 
Michael Ecker
Lehigh Acres, Florida
ecker567@comcast.net

1978 Cutlass Supreme - $500 purchase, being slowly fixed up
   (in line for V6-to-403 swap soon, and maybe 200-4R and gears...)

1979 Cutlass Supreme Brougham - becoming a circle track car
   (bought without title, had Certificate of Destruction so can never
    be re-registered, but will uphold the Oldsmobile name with honor)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:23:31 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel requirement recap (GPH)

Milton,

> Steve R.,
> 
> > Anyway, can someone describe how to determine the fuel requirements
> > (GPH) for a particular engine?
> 
> 
> Even an engine dyno will only give you an indication of fuel 
> requirements.
> The dyno ***will not*** tell you anything about the effort to 
> pump the fuel from the fuel tank up to the engine under 
> acceleration. The fuel pump must overcome acceleration 
> affects. The only way I know for sure to determine the 
> minimum GPH is to first install a fuel pressure gauge in the 
> car. Then, for the drag strip, run the car through. Note the 
> fuel pressure reading each time you shift, or have someone 
> ride with you to take the readings. You must maintain the 
> full 7 psi at the top of your engine's RPM range at each 
> shift point to be certain full fuel supply is arriving at the 
> carb(s) and is available for the engine. If the fuel pump 
> can't keep up with your engine's fuel demand, the fuel 
> pressure ***will*** decrease. If you've got a lonely stretch 
> of road somewhere, that will suffice for a drag strip.
> 
> There are 2 ways to maintain adequate fuel pressure at the 
> carb(s). First, use a larger GPH pump or, with electric fuel 
> pumps, use 2 pumps running in parallel (which is my preferred 
> method). Second, use a fuel pump with a 15+ psi pressure 
> rating and use a pressure regulator. I don't like external 
> pressure regulators. I've never seen one that was 100% 
> reliable under all conditions.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com

As you well know I've got a few 2-5/8" (4) & (2) Gauge BRKTS to mount gauges
in.  I'll definitely have someone like, Dad, riding shotgun when I first
take her for a spin.

The premise sounds quire logical.


Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
'68 Cutlass Supreme 
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com 


> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:47:49 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: new msd

27 Jun 2004 20:34:07 -0500 "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net> writes:

> I am thinking my timing mark is off on the balencer. It could 
> have spun, it is a new stock balencer

I got fed up with balancers spinning and coming apart.  Now 
I use FLUIDAMPERS, pricey but a complete cure.  

Bruce Roe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:29:55 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.

Wanna set your engine to run perfect?  Go old school and dial in you engine
(WHEN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS RUNNING OF PLANED VACUUM, NOT PORTED)

Hook up a Vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum.  Adjust the distributor 'till
MAX vac @ idle.

Run the hell out of the engine.

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
'68 Cutlass Supreme 
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:50:32 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: new msd

> Something I was just thinking of. I used the plastic timing indicator off
> the original 403 on the 455 since I could not find the original one from
the
> 455. Could this be giving me a wrong reading? They should be the same
> shouldn't they?


No, they are probably different. That could be the whole problem.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 00:37:32 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: RE: Red clear fuel hosing

Appreciate the heads up.
I will try to find some red..not pink not almost red... Red fuel lines.
How soon before the clear starts reacting?
Would it be safe for say a couple months of weekend driving?
Man it looks good though....
:( 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of 
> Infinite Space Systems, Inc.
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 3:01 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Red clear fuel hosing
> 
> > I believe the brand was mooneyes that made it. It is just 
> as thick as 
> > the black fuel line is is made for fuel. Still a death 
> trap? If so..how?
> 
> 
> What you're remembering is the MOON Equipment Company that 
> used a pair of "mooneyes" for a company logo. The clear or 
> clear colored tubing is made of vinyl. Yes, vinyl will 
> withstand gasoline for a short while, but will eventually 
> react with the gasoline and turn hard. At that point, in can 
> leak around the fitting, for the pliable seal has a tendency 
> to go away. More importantly, vinyl really doesn't like the 
> level of heat in an engine compartment. There has been many 
> more than a few engine fires over the years because someone 
> used vinyl fuel line, and it leaked. It's not worth the risk. 
> Use a good quality double wall, fiber reinforced, rubber fuel 
> line. It will be rated to about 250 psi working pressure, 
> withstand up to 600 degrees of heat, and stay pliable and not 
> leak. I know rubber fuel hose is available in either solid 
> black or blue, and it may also be available in red. Stay 
> clear of the clear stuff.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 00:50:53 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: Pics of red fuel line on white 425

 check out some pics of my white engine with red/blue/chrome/alluminum all
american olds muscle:
http://216.22.28.163/oldsmobile/white425

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of 
> Infinite Space Systems, Inc.
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 3:01 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Red clear fuel hosing
> 
> > I believe the brand was mooneyes that made it. It is just 
> as thick as 
> > the black fuel line is is made for fuel. Still a death 
> trap? If so..how?
> 
> 
> What you're remembering is the MOON Equipment Company that 
> used a pair of "mooneyes" for a company logo. The clear or 
> clear colored tubing is made of vinyl. Yes, vinyl will 
> withstand gasoline for a short while, but will eventually 
> react with the gasoline and turn hard. At that point, in can 
> leak around the fitting, for the pliable seal has a tendency 
> to go away. More importantly, vinyl really doesn't like the 
> level of heat in an engine compartment. There has been many 
> more than a few engine fires over the years because someone 
> used vinyl fuel line, and it leaked. It's not worth the risk. 
> Use a good quality double wall, fiber reinforced, rubber fuel 
> line. It will be rated to about 250 psi working pressure, 
> withstand up to 600 degrees of heat, and stay pliable and not 
> leak. I know rubber fuel hose is available in either solid 
> black or blue, and it may also be available in red. Stay 
> clear of the clear stuff.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 02:17:50 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Red clear fuel hosing

> Appreciate the heads up.
> I will try to find some red..not pink not almost red... Red fuel lines.
> How soon before the clear starts reacting?
> Would it be safe for say a couple months of weekend driving?


It may be okay for a couple of months, but be *very* careful.......

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 02:24:58 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Pics of red fuel line on white 425

I noticed that you have power steering with a later model low mount power
steering pump and brackets. Did you have any trouble with the low mount pump
and brackets being too close to the '65 power steering box, or anything
else???

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 07:31:47 -0400
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: I need an engine for my 1970 Olds 98

455

rocket455@worldnet.att.net wrote:

>What size engine are you looking for?
>
>Randy
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 09:18:17 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end

Just in yesterday

front end for non-S, non-442 1968 Cutlass
Fenders, hood, hinges, springs, grille, springs, wiring, core support 
[rotted LH, duh], trims,
Fenders been patched, bottom 5-6" was gone.

Drop-in ready 1966 425 engine, B heads, D 2-bbl intake, pan to carb, 
flexplate to balancer, looking to get $500 or will part it out.

The 1968 350 engine with #5 heads, good runner, might be here soon too.
Please someone buy an engine or at least some heads or a crank!
I have 2 freshly ground Nodular 350 cranks right now... cheap.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
>From ‘will you?’ to ‘I do,’ MSN Life Events is your resource for Getting 
Married. http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 08:26:22 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end

Chris,
	What would you take for the 435 crankshaft & shipping?

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
'68 Cutlass Supreme 
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Christopher Witt
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 8:18 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end
> 
> Just in yesterday
> 
> front end for non-S, non-442 1968 Cutlass Fenders, hood, 
> hinges, springs, grille, springs, wiring, core support 
> [rotted LH, duh], trims, Fenders been patched, bottom 5-6" was gone.
> 
> Drop-in ready 1966 425 engine, B heads, D 2-bbl intake, pan 
> to carb, flexplate to balancer, looking to get $500 or will 
> part it out.
> 
> The 1968 350 engine with #5 heads, good runner, might be here 
> soon too.
> Please someone buy an engine or at least some heads or a crank!
> I have 2 freshly ground Nodular 350 cranks right now... cheap.
> ----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
> 
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
> 
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> From 'will you?' to 'I do,' MSN Life Events is your resource 
> for Getting Married. 
> http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 08:38:22 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

that may explain things then. Is there anywhere I could look up part numbers
for that timing indicator. I wouldn't even know where to start looking for a
piece like that or what they even call it

Allen Schwartz
A&L Enterprises
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: new msd


> > Something I was just thinking of. I used the plastic timing indicator
off
> > the original 403 on the 455 since I could not find the original one from
> the
> > 455. Could this be giving me a wrong reading? They should be the same
> > shouldn't they?
>
>
> No, they are probably different. That could be the whole problem.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:12:59 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: new msd

I've tried both ways. First I was happy with the direct vacuum, for the nice
idle I had. But, after a mail from someone from our list, talking about the
transition idle/part throtle to WOT I decided to go back to the timed vac,
and, of course, the improvement in the agility of my car was remarcable. So,
hence, only the the timed vacuum for my Mallory or HEI ditrubutors.
Matt
81CS 468



> I have always gotten conflicting answers on which vacume source myself
> Allen Schwartz
> A&L Enterprises
> mycj@tds.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:51 PM
> Subject: RE: new msd
>
>
> > I'm inclined to think that your vacuum advance was intentionally hooked
to
> > manifold/unported vacuum, where it should be, in my opinion.  I've
noticed
> > that alot of people on this list favor a ported source so I'll just
leave
> > this one alone unless someone wants to jaw back and forth about it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:20:29 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.

if the vacuum connected to the gauge is the is ported there will be none at
idle, or am I wrong?
Matt
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@direcway.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 11:29 PM
Subject: OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.


> Wanna set your engine to run perfect?  Go old school and dial in you
engine
> (WHEN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS RUNNING OF PLANED VACUUM, NOT PORTED)
>
> Hook up a Vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum.  Adjust the distributor 'till
> MAX vac @ idle.
>
> Run the hell out of the engine.
>
> Steve Reed
> '96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
> '70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
> '68 Cutlass Supreme
> Austin, TX
> http://www.sreed.0catch.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 09:43:42 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: OK, Timing Talk, let's do it.

Matt,

> if the vacuum connected to the gauge is the is ported there 
> will be none at idle, or am I wrong?
> Matt

PORTED VACUUM:
Definition: Engine vacuum that is available above the throttle plates of a
throttle body or carburetor. Used to advance ignition timing on older
carbureted engines when the throttle is opened above its idle position.

I would think there would be very little, as there is only a slight amount
of vacuum applied to the distributor at low RPMs.

The way to set the engine timing is by a PLANED vacuum source; directly into
the intake manifold.  Which is usually around 18-20.

For example, the way my distributor in my '70 is curved like this "STEVE THE
DISTRIBUTORS CURVE STARTS ADVANCING @ 750 RPM AND HAS 20 DEGREES IN AT 4200
RPM   TRY AN INITIAL TIMING OF 12 DEGREES AND GO FROM THERE  THE VACUUM
ADVANCE ADDS 10 DEGREES OF TIMING"

I hope this helps,

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
'68 Cutlass Supreme 
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:43:09 -0400
From: Paul White <oldslist@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end

- --------------080707080908040508000602
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
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I need a complete running basic 455. Got one?

paulbunyan

ssreed@direcway.com wrote:

>Chris,
>    What would you take for the 435 crankshaft & shipping?
>
>Steve Reed
>'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
>'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
>'68 Cutlass Supreme 
>Austin, TX
>http://www.sreed.0catch.com 
>
>  
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
>>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Christopher Witt
>>Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 8:18 AM
>>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>>Subject: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end
>>
>>Just in yesterday
>>
>>front end for non-S, non-442 1968 Cutlass Fenders, hood, 
>>hinges, springs, grille, springs, wiring, core support 
>>[rotted LH, duh], trims, Fenders been patched, bottom 5-6" was gone.
>>
>>Drop-in ready 1966 425 engine, B heads, D 2-bbl intake, pan 
>>to carb, flexplate to balancer, looking to get $500 or will 
>>part it out.
>>
>>The 1968 350 engine with #5 heads, good runner, might be here 
>>soon too.
>>Please someone buy an engine or at least some heads or a crank!
>>I have 2 freshly ground Nodular 350 cranks right now... cheap.
>>----------------------
>>Chris Witt
>>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>>Lansing MI 48911
>>
>>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>>
>>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>>Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>From 'will you?' to 'I do,' MSN Life Events is your resource 
>>for Getting Married. 
>>http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>  
>

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I need a complete running basic 455. Got one?<br>
<br>
paulbunyan<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ssreed@direcway.com">ssreed@direcway.com</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid0I0000FZ1TC27K@a34-mta01.direcway.com">
  <pre wrap="">Chris,
    What would you take for the 435 crankshaft &amp; shipping?

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
'68 Cutlass Supreme 
Austin, TX
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.sreed.0catch.com">http://www.sreed.0catch.com</a> 

  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">-----Original Message-----
From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca</a> 
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca">mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca</a>] On Behalf Of Christopher Witt
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 8:18 AM
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</a>
Subject: More new items- running 66 425, 68 Cutlass not-S front end

Just in yesterday

front end for non-S, non-442 1968 Cutlass Fenders, hood, 
hinges, springs, grille, springs, wiring, core support 
[rotted LH, duh], trims, Fenders been patched, bottom 5-6" was gone.

Drop-in ready 1966 425 engine, B heads, D 2-bbl intake, pan 
to carb, flexplate to balancer, looking to get $500 or will 
part it out.

The 1968 350 engine with #5 heads, good runner, might be here 
soon too.
Please someone buy an engine or at least some heads or a crank!
I have 2 freshly ground Nodular 350 cranks right now... cheap.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:RocketScience442@hotmail.com">RocketScience442@hotmail.com</a>

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
>From 'will you?' to 'I do,' MSN Life Events is your resource 
for Getting Married. 
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married">http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married</a>


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4935
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