
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, August 6 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4977



Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
Re: OT: AC dryer rejuvination
Re: more VIN swapping and cop -outs
Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
Re: Hello List
Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
RE: Without Driving off a Cliff
7mm wires/MSD/Dwell/dis.cap carbon/tach jumps.
Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
Re: 7mm wires/MSD/Dwell/dis.cap carbon/tach jumps.
UNBOUNCE: '87 4-4-2 Questions
RE: engine WON'T knock
Re: New England Olds show pix
Re: 7mm wires/MSD/Dwell/dis.cap carbon/tach jumps.
Ride Height Question
Latest Ebay Scam
Re: engine WON'T knock
RE: Latest Ebay Scam
the most comfortable Oldsmobile
Re: anyone see overhauling last night
Re: Latest Ebay Scam
Re: Ride Height Question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 12:00:15 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

> Most people couldn't apex a turn properly if they wanted to, therefore
what's the difference. The biggest concern with
> rim size in comparison to tire size (if memory serves correctly) is the
tire's ability to maintain a proper bead against
> the rim in order to avoid becoming unseated.


True, but that usually occurs with tire treads that are too narrow for the
rim width, like a 6" tread tire on an 8" wide wheel with the sidewall
angling inward from the rim to the tread. That can pop a tire bead right
over the safety bead on either hard braking or hard cornering.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 12:42:36 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

> Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 11:55:53 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff
> 
> > I measured one of my tires last night. The tread width is 
> 8.25", which fits within the parameters you posted.
> 
> 
> Kenneth, you're fine. I wouldn't be concerned about it.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com

That's what my position has been all along - looks good, works fine. 
I was just trying to convince Matt that it was acceptable, but he and 
I differ in our opinions on this. He doesn't like the look of the 
245-60-14 on a 7" rim, which is a completely valid reason for not 
having them on his vehicle. To each his own. I agree that an 8" rim 
would be great to have, but then I'd just jump up to a larger tire 
anyway as the 245s easily go up in smoke during a hard launch.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible 
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 15:24:47 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: OT: AC dryer rejuvination

Yup. I checked the cost after I sent out that email, and it was only 
$16 for my application ('79 Mazda RX-7), at Autozone. Gotta love that!
Already have a new one one the Olds, and it was cheap enogh - I was 
just worried about availability on the Mazda. Some things for the 
rotary cars appear to be made out of unobtanium... fortunately, that 
wasn't one of them.

krw
On Aug 4, 2004, at 6:04 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 20:23:17 +0000
> From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
> Subject: Re: OT: AC dryer rejuvination
>
> - --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_178_1091650997_0
> Content-Type: text/plain
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>
>> I read on one of the many lists that I get something
>> about rejuvenating an AC dryer by baking the moisture
>> out of it in an oven.
> What?  I've never heard of that.  Not to say that it's not done.  But 
> these things are so inexpensive, why would you want to?  I just bought 
> a Delco dryer for $30 (OK, at dealership cost).
> Paul
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 20:26:35 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: more VIN swapping and cop -outs

>>I don't  think there's a clear-cut boundary beyond
>>which you go from restoration  to, um, fraud
>
>There is. It is called INTENT, and it applies to everything we do.

Indeed, and that's what I was fudging towards near the end of my speech. 
However, proving what someone's intent was can be pretty difficult; it's 
hardly what you could describe as a clear-cut boundary in all cases.

As I said, if someone creates a 442 by swapping VIN plates, their intent is 
obvious; if they create one by simply building one in a model year in which 
the 442 did not carry its own distinctive VIN, then their intent can be a 
little murkier.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 17:14:00 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

Kenneth, I agree that it is acceptable, nevertheless I think that the 8"
would be the optimal width for those tires... the rest is matter of taste,
de gustibus non est disputandum... :-)
possibly the end of this topic...
OTOH, all is related ->  bigger tires = less slip at acceleration = better
cornering = harsher drive = less mpg....
Man, when I had to push the 275/60/15 wheel to be repaired, I started to
sweat after 20 meters... not mentionning as equipped 74CS... GOOD excerscize
for legs muscles
rgds
Matt

> > > I measured one of my tires last night. The tread width is
> > 8.25", which fits within the parameters you posted.
> >
> >
> > Kenneth, you're fine. I wouldn't be concerned about it.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
>
> That's what my position has been all along - looks good, works fine.
> I was just trying to convince Matt that it was acceptable, but he and
> I differ in our opinions on this. He doesn't like the look of the
> 245-60-14 on a 7" rim, which is a completely valid reason for not
> having them on his vehicle. To each his own. I agree that an 8" rim
> would be great to have, but then I'd just jump up to a larger tire
> anyway as the 245s easily go up in smoke during a hard launch.
>
> Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 18:31:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fellman <frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Hello List

- --0-93231570-1091755883=:9662
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Welcome aboard, Trent!  Looks like a nice 'fleet' of 
'69s you've got there!  I understand what you're saying
about available time... it's minimal for many of us--
kinda like money in that regard, too!    ;o)))
 
             ttyl...              Phantom455  (a.k.a. Frank)
 
'72 Delta 88/455/TH400
'84 Bu*ck Skyhawk wagon/2.0L/FI (wife's...
       we sure miss her '71 Vista Cruiser  :o(((   
       but it's in good hands now-- being restored, too!)
=======================================

TJPROD@aol.com wrote:
Just saying hello to all on the list, I joined a few months ago, but haven't had much time. 
 
Trent Joyce
 
1 - 1969 442 Holiday Coupe 455/4spd (play car)
1 - 1969 Cutlass Supreme #'s matching 350ci/310hp/th350 (current project)
1 - 1969 442 Convertible 455/th400 originally 400/4spd (lots'o'rust, on the back burner, need a ton of cash to do this one)
1 - 1969 442 Holiday Coupe (eng gone original th400 tranny and one leg rear)
 

- --0-93231570-1091755883=:9662
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Welcome aboard, Trent!&nbsp; Looks like a nice 'fleet' of </DIV>
<DIV>'69s you've got there!&nbsp; I understand what you're saying</DIV>
<DIV>about available time... it's minimal for many of us--</DIV>
<DIV>kinda like money in that regard, too!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ;o)))</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ttyl...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Phantom455&nbsp; (a.k.a. Frank)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>'72 Delta 88/455/TH400</DIV>
<DIV>'84 Bu*ck Skyhawk wagon/2.0L/FI (wife's...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; we sure miss her '71 Vista Cruiser&nbsp; :o(((&nbsp;&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; but it's in good hands now-- being restored, too!)</DIV>
<DIV>=======================================<BR><BR><B><I>TJPROD@aol.com</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=GENERATOR><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>Just saying hello to all on the list, I joined a few months ago, but haven't had much time. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Trent Joyce</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1 - 1969 442 Holiday Coupe 455/4spd (play car)</DIV>
<DIV>1 - 1969 Cutlass Supreme #'s matching 350ci/310hp/th350 (current project)</DIV>
<DIV>1 - 1969 442 Convertible 455/th400 originally 400/4spd (lots'o'rust, on the back burner, need a ton of cash to do this one)</DIV>
<DIV>1 - 1969 442 Holiday Coupe&nbsp;(eng gone original th400 tranny and one leg rear)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
- --0-93231570-1091755883=:9662--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 20:21:41 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

Kenneth,
Those 295/50-15's would look great on your ride... on a 10 inch rim : D

M


At 12:42 PM 8/5/2004 -0700, Kenneth Schopen wrote:
>To each his own. I agree that an 8" rim
>would be great to have, but then I'd just jump up to a larger tire
>anyway as the 245s easily go up in smoke during a hard launch.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 20:26:29 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

I can't recall if I've brought this up before... but, there is a point at 
which bigger tires can hinder traction... Once we get past the point of 
slippage, there is less weight per square inch of contact patch.  At what 
point does this become a big issue? Anyone have a clue as how to measure 
such a thing?

M

At 05:14 PM 8/5/2004 -0400, Matt wrote:
>OTOH, all is related ->  bigger tires = less slip at acceleration = better
>cornering = harsher drive = less mpg....

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 23:51:33 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: Without Driving off a Cliff

Hinder traction, no. Performance tires are made of softer compounds ( don't
last as long) and should compensate fine. Slow the car down yes. More mass
more friction means slower time after a certain point. Good article in C&D
few months ago about how changing tires and rear rotors on a Corvette
drastically reduced its acceleration.

The car was modified and put out over 500hp. With the larger rotors and
tire/wheel combo it was not much faster than a basically stock version of
the same car. They even took it to a chassis dyno and documented over 500hp
if IIRC.

Devils in the details.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mark Mullins
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 11:26 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff


I can't recall if I've brought this up before... but, there is a point at
which bigger tires can hinder traction... Once we get past the point of
slippage, there is less weight per square inch of contact patch.  At what
point does this become a big issue? Anyone have a clue as how to measure
such a thing?

M

At 05:14 PM 8/5/2004 -0400, Matt wrote:
>OTOH, all is related ->  bigger tires = less slip at acceleration = better
>cornering = harsher drive = less mpg....

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 01:42:08 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
Subject: 7mm wires/MSD/Dwell/dis.cap carbon/tach jumps.

Hello
IIRC When i tried the dwell meter on the points that are now a trigger for MSD The dwell read diff. on the meter lower on scale and would not change when adj.?
I gapped points to.016 via feeler gauge,i wanna phone msd and see what they recommend to gap.
I want to open the plugs to .040(from35) now i gots MSD but can my new 7mm solid core not (carbon stuffs) wires handle the Blaster coil or do i dish out more cash i dont have for $100 8mm MSD wires?
Also i remember the dis cap has that carbon tip in it riding on rotor,,how much juice can that little carbon handle?
The car runs and idles awesome with new ign, sys. but the tach is goin nuts on the lower rpm when not on the throttle.
The needles jumps around alot until i get approx 1800rpm or so and on the throttle.
I know its a multiple spark sys.at lower rpm but the tach did this before also with points?...i tried a diff. tach from the other car and tried diff. grds. and power feeds nothing calms it down?
Nightmare store says i need a tach adaptor(msd$) $38.00!
I heard from racer buddy just go to a radio store they can give you something to put in line from neg coil to neg tach.? what is this?
As per usual i would let the magic smoke out from wires so i always ask ton o questions first,,,tanks fer any hints.
Randy H.
58 88
72 Cutlass
72 Cutlass Convert.
Maple Ditch B.C.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 23:12:24 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

> I can't recall if I've brought this up before... but, there is a point at
> which bigger tires can hinder traction... Once we get past the point of
> slippage, there is less weight per square inch of contact patch.  At what
> point does this become a big issue? Anyone have a clue as how to measure
> such a thing?


That's correct. The purpose is to maximize friction between the pavement and
the tire tread. No one factor will give you everything. Traction is
determined by the pounds per square inch the vehicle can apply through the
tread contact area to the pavement (takes into account both tread width and
length around tire), the rotational speed of the tire (the faster the tread
rotates, the quicker it can slip), and the softness of the rubber. The
corollary to rotational speed and rubber softness is the more heat that can
be generated by a fast spinning and slipping tire, the more heat is
available to soften the rubber even more. That's why burnouts are done. Tire
traction is a balancing act.

Stick your fingernail into the tread rubber of a BGF COMP T/A and the tread
of a Michelin Pilot XGT H4 and feel how soft both tires are. They are both
rated AA for traction, A for temperature, and have a tread life around
220-250. Then find some good quality B temperature rated tires (like
standard street BFG T/As) and stick your fingernail into those. You will
fine the good quality B rated tires have rubber that is very hard (with
tread life of around 360-400 and A traction rated). That makes a big
difference in traction. The harder the tire tread rubber, the longer the
tread life. I like A temperature rated tires for all street use, because
they're tread is softer, giving better traction in all conditions. It's the
best street traction compromise.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 23:20:50 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Without Driving off a Cliff

> With the larger rotors and
> tire/wheel combo it was not much faster than a basically stock version of
> the same car.


Bigger is *not* always better, even in braking systems. Too much rotational
mass. On Thunder, her front and rear disc brake rotors are 11" at only 3/8"
thick (non-ventilated and never overheat), with 6061 T6 aluminum hubs for
the rear. As long as one can panic stop without locking up the wheels and
the tires just barely pull through the brakes and hold traction, one has it
made in the shade.


> Devils in the details.


Yup, just the kind of thing that Murphy and his family loves.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 00:12:00 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 7mm wires/MSD/Dwell/dis.cap carbon/tach jumps.

Randy,

> IIRC When i tried the dwell meter on the points that are now a trigger for
MSD The dwell read diff. on the meter lower on scale and would not change
when adj.?
> I gapped points to.016 via feeler gauge,i wanna phone msd and see what
they recommend to gap.


The points will still set at 30 degrees. You should not have had any problem
setting the points with the dwell meter. One lead goes to the distributor
side of the coil and the other lead is ground.


> I want to open the plugs to .040(from35) now i gots MSD but can my new 7mm
solid core not (carbon stuffs) wires handle the Blaster coil or do i dish
out more cash i dont have for $100 8mm MSD wires?


The wires wouldn't have any trouble handling the current. A Vertex magneto
puts out 100,000 volts. The MSD's only around 55,000, but over 20 degrees
instead of just once.

However, the solid core wires will generate large RFI (radio frequency
interference) and EMI (electro-magnetic interference) fields which could
interfere with proper operation of the electronics inside the MSD unit. I'd
install the super good wires, but I'd use Taylor instead.
http://www.taylorvertex.com/hp/


> Also i remember the dis cap has that carbon tip in it riding on rotor,,how
much juice can that little carbon handle?


More than you would expect. Don't worry about it.


> The car runs and idles awesome with new ign, sys. but the tach is goin
nuts on the lower rpm when not on the throttle.


The RFI and EMI from your ignition wires is nailing your electronic tach on
the lower scale. Replace the wires.


> The needles jumps around alot until i get approx 1800rpm or so and on the
throttle.
> I know its a multiple spark sys.at lower rpm but the tach did this before
also with points?...i tried a diff. tach from the other car and tried diff.
grds. and power feeds nothing calms it down?
> Nightmare store says i need a tach adaptor(msd$) $38.00!


Bull crap.


> I heard from racer buddy just go to a radio store they can give you
something to put in line from neg coil to neg tach.? what is this?


Buy a set of Taylor ThunderVolt 50 or 409 Pro-Race or 8mm Spiro-Pro wires,
and they'll cure the problem, automatically.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 08:46:17 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '87 4-4-2 Questions

Not on the list, respond to lliening@alltypetruckrepair.com if you can
assist. Sorry for the all caps.  Can someone from the G-list assist? 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "lisa liening" <lliening@alltypetruckrepair.com>
Subject: 1987 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 442

HELLO, HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME!  I HAVE A 1987 OLDS 442 THAT HAS THE 2-TONE =
GOLD AND SILVER KEYS, ANYONE KNOW HOW I COULD OBTAIN ANOTHER SET OF =
THEM??

ALSO, ANY INFORMATION ON IF/HOW I COULD OBTAIN ANOTHER PURCHASE/WINDOW =
STICKER ON MY CAR?

I APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL HELP I CAN GET, THANK YOU!!!!

PLEASE E-MAIL ANY ANSWERS TO ME AT: =20
LLIENING@ALLTYPETRUCKREPAIR.COM

THANKS AGAIN!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 08:09:52 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: engine WON'T knock

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 16:57:39 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: engine knock

>Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 11:56:25 -0400
>From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
>Subject: engine knock
>
>  rebuilt 72 350 with a 330 crank and 7a heads.
>I asked for a RV cam, I put in a new HEI from summit

>this small block does not have the power that I think it should have, I can 
>advance the HEI as far as I want and can get no engine knock, I can even 
>run this on 89 oct and still no knock. This motor was rebuilt and sat for 
>14 or 15 years before I got it. I have no real way of knowing if they did 
>put the cam in that I asked for, but even with out an RV cam I would think 
>I should be able to get this motor to knock... and have more power then she 
>does...  any help would be great
>john
>67 cutlass supreme
+++++++++++++++++++
John,
The last rebuild on my 350 ended up with issues similar to what you describe 
- -
no low end power and the ability to run on low octane fuel without pinging. 
Turns
out the camshaft that I installed with the dots on the timing gears aligned 
was over
8º retarded. I would really recommend you check the cam with a degree wheel 
and
make sure it's installed correctly.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ
=============================
That was my first impression too. To which, I would add:
  It is also possible, by installing the distributor 1 tooth off, to be 
unable to turn the distributor far enough to get the timing set correctly 
before the dist'r housing or VA unit hits the engine or the firewall. if you 
move the wires all over one terminal, then the timing is too far the other 
way. Been there, done that. Recently again. What exactly is your timing set 
at when most advanced? Put a number on it for us.
   Also, you have this 330/350 thing going on here. Are you 1000% sure that 
the block is a #2 350 block and not a 45 degree cam bank angle 330 block, 
or... a 45 degree cam in a 39 degree #2 block? If you ordered a cam for a 
'67 330, you might well have gotten a 45 degree cam. NO WORKEE. Been there, 
done that, too. Similar results.
   In any event, sounds like a cam degreeing is in order. That will tell FOR 
SURE if the cam matches the block, and if it was installed correctly indexed 
[timed]. Former error should show up as one bank all early and the other 
bank all late. Latter problem can be as insidious as poorly machined gears 
which place the cam oh like 8' retarded as mentioned above... or as easy as 
'twas installed 1 tooth off the marks [which are often NOT centered on the 
teeth, making it tough to tell which one to use]. 1 tooth [of 36 on the cam] 
is 10 degrees of cam rotation, which is 20 degrees of crank rotation. I have 
seen engines still running [easy start, very low on power, no rev 
capabilities] with the timing sprocket teeth so far gone that the chain has 
jumped a tooth.
   You can degree in the cam you have, even if you don't have specs on it 
anymore. I think that basically, you want the overlap about centered around 
TDC. If that is not a good method, I am sure that others can chime in and 
explain how best to degree a cam for which you have no cam card.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:23:11 -0400
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Re: New England Olds show pix

On Tuesday, Aug 3rd Chris Witt wrote:

>========================
>
>....Nice selection!
>Was every '68 there with fender stripes painted incorrectly, running the 
>stripes into the w/o trim? Or, is that just my imagination? .... 

Hi Chris,

Hey in the current issue (September 2004) of MuscleCar Enthusiast, on page 54 
there is a picture of a white 68 442 convertible.  It's right front fender as 
the 442 numbers with a red stripe running through them. 

If you have this magazine, is the stripe in the correct location on that car? 
Always trying to learn more about these 68-72 cars. The picture is part of a 
tech article on installing front disc brakes.  

Oldsmobile mentioned on pages 8 also. 






Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:58:42 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: 7mm wires/MSD/Dwell/dis.cap carbon/tach jumps.

Randy, as for the gap go with .060, is not too much
Points should have 30 degrees of  Dwell, but the MSD will use only the
opening point to start the process, so a difference will not matter much,
provided the correct advance is set.
Wire - go with Taylors, Spiro Pro, about $43  for a custom set, I've uesd
them on 2 cars, perfec, last longer that the fancy Accel stuff
MSD wire are said to be problematic...
MSD comes with a list of tachs that work with it sans adaptor, I use Auto
Meter/Auto Gage
Couldn't you connect the tach to the point distributor?
good luck - MSD IS wonderfull - rgds
Matt
81CS 468ci

> Hello
> IIRC When i tried the dwell meter on the points that are now a trigger for
MSD The dwell read diff. on the meter lower on scale and would not change
when adj.?
> I gapped points to.016 via feeler gauge,i wanna phone msd and see what
they recommend to gap.
> I want to open the plugs to .040(from35) now i gots MSD but can my new 7mm
solid core not (carbon stuffs) wires handle the Blaster coil or do i dish
out more cash i dont have for $100 8mm MSD wires?
> Also i remember the dis cap has that carbon tip in it riding on rotor,,how
much juice can that little carbon handle?
> The car runs and idles awesome with new ign, sys. but the tach is goin
nuts on the lower rpm when not on the throttle.
> The needles jumps around alot until i get approx 1800rpm or so and on the
throttle.
> I know its a multiple spark sys.at lower rpm but the tach did this before
also with points?...i tried a diff. tach from the other car and tried diff.
grds. and power feeds nothing calms it down?
> Nightmare store says i need a tach adaptor(msd$) $38.00!
> I heard from racer buddy just go to a radio store they can give you
something to put in line from neg coil to neg tach.? what is this?
> As per usual i would let the magic smoke out from wires so i always ask
ton o questions first,,,tanks fer any hints.
> Randy H.
> 58 88
> 72 Cutlass
> 72 Cutlass Convert.
> Maple Ditch B.C.
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 11:09:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Ride Height Question

Here's one for the suspension gurus out there.

On my '68, the front end control arm bushings were basically shot. On the
lower arms, one of the bushings was split and falling out, so repair was
called for. With the idea of saving some time and doing it myself, I found
a set of NOS lower control arms complete with bushings and ball joints. 

I soon lost interest in the idea of doing it myself, so I recently got my
friendly mechanic to install them. They are now installed and have solved
several issues that I had, and I'm happy with them. Except - the front
end of the car now rides higher than before. The shop says they will
probably settle in over time. But I can't understand why it is riding
higher in the first place. The arms looked identical. Can anyone offer a
theory as to the cause and/or a cure? TIA... 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 11:13:54 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Latest Ebay Scam

There have been a lot of phishing scam emails floating around lately, but
overnight I got one (addressed not to me, but to the list owner, so I knew
it was a scam right away) with the title of "Your account at eBay has been
suspended". It spoofs a real ebay email address and uses several embedded
links to legit ebay pages, but the money link takes you elsewhere and asks
for all sorts of personal info, even bank PIN codes, which is a dead
giveaway. But there are unsuspecting people out there, so beware. I just
wish I could send a virtual cruise missile back at these criminals.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 10:17:22 -0400
From: "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com>
Subject: Re: engine WON'T knock

  Hey Chris,
   Yup, it's a 72 350 block, and 72 7a heads... and I know for sure she has
a steel crank. I just put a 4 speed in, and droped the JetAway..  When I got
the motor I never once looked to see if it was a 330.. for that I have
kicked myself more then once. The guy I got it from told me it was a 330 out
of a 67 cutlass rag top... This guy has been in business for years, he told
me that he rebuilt it for a guy who was paying him a little at a time, then
the guy just vanished!!!  So he sat on the thing for 14 or 15 years...  he
told me he would change the cam to an RV cam and do the heads so that I
would not have too, to run unleaded gas.... all for the grand price of
1500.00 installed...  it never really ran like I think it should have... as
I said I have had big and small blocks for more years then I can remember,
and this guy just does not have what it should....  it has a great lope to
it...  lol  any I was getting ready to drop the 4 speed into and just for
fun one day I was looking at the heads  was thinking I should see # 4 or 5
but no I see 7a  then I checked the block   and at the end of the id # by
the water pump...  a big "2"
  so for the rant Chris.....  still have my nose out of joint over this.....
but anyway the crank was indeed steel.. the 67 442 flywheel that Mark aka
The General sent fit just fine. The crank had the L cut in it. Plus it was
already cut for a standard shift...
  So... in answer to your question.... yes 1000 % sure it is a 72 350 with a
steel crank. Should I try and move the cap wire one hole to see if that
helps?
john

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 10:25:09 -0400
From: "David J. Duffner - Trofeoworld.com" <oldslist@trofeoworld.com>
Subject: RE: Latest Ebay Scam

>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Greg Beaulieu
>Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 10:14 AM
>To: Oldsmobile
>Subject: Latest Ebay Scam
>
>
>There have been a lot of phishing scam emails floating around 
>lately, but
>overnight I got one (addressed not to me, but to the list 
>owner, so I knew
>it was a scam right away) with the title of "Your account at 
>eBay has been
>suspended". It spoofs a real ebay email address and uses 
>several embedded
>links to legit ebay pages, but the money link takes you 
>elsewhere and asks
>for all sorts of personal info, even bank PIN codes, which is a dead
>giveaway. But there are unsuspecting people out there, so 
>beware. I just
>wish I could send a virtual cruise missile back at these criminals.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

	Go yourself one better.  Forward the sucker as an attachment
to security@ebay.com and what little work they do around there may
cause them to dig and try to pin down the source.  They need the
entire e-mail, those forwarding must be done as an attachment so
the original header stays intact and they can do the digging.

	We get these daily, try to filter out as many as possible 
from our clients which include the Toro List and we've been 
reasonably successful in doing so.  But every last one of those
SOB phish-mails are dumped right back in eBay's lap for handling.

	Latest we've seen have been more 'We're updating your Account'
and they just want your ID & password so they can go digging around
in your eBay and PayPal account to get what they need to do the 
damage.

      David J. Duffner
      VP Operations
      NWC Corporation
      NWCWEB.com
      
============================================
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Featuring Ensim Pro/Linux Servers, Hosted
Accounts, Web Design and e-Commerce services
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e-mail must be deleted immediately.     www.nwcweb.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 11:48:10 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: the most comfortable Oldsmobile

Hi guys, here I go with another topic... which Olds would be the most
plushy, silent, comfy... bad roads swallowing?
rgds
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 12:44:36 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: anyone see overhauling last night

- -------------------------------1091810676
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

any one see overhauling last night they did the 68  442

- -------------------------------1091810676
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">any one see overhauling last night they did the 68&nbsp; 442</BODY></HTML=
>

- -------------------------------1091810676--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 12:53:57 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Latest Ebay Scam

At Friday, 6 August 2004, you wrote:
>I just wish I could send a virtual cruise missile back 
>at these criminals.

That'd just make em duck. I'd prefer to lite off an ICBM at them  ;o))))

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
===================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 12:07:36 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Ride Height Question

> On the
> lower arms, one of the bushings was split and falling out, so repair was
> called for.
- --------
> Except - the front
> end of the car now rides higher than before. The shop says they will
> probably settle in over time. But I can't understand why it is riding
> higher in the first place.


I will assume the front end came up about an inch? Your bushings were
probably so bad, the frame was probably riding on the cross bolt, with no
bushing left under it. The frame would drop down under those conditions. New
bushings would re-center the bolt to raise the frame back up to correct
height. Therefore, the front of the car would come up a corresponding
amount. Also, when the front bushings go bad, the front alignment goes to
hell-in-a-hand-basket and the front will change in ride height from bad
alignment alone. With new bushings and correct front end alignment, an
argument could be made the front end could come up even more than an inch.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4977
*********************************
