
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, July 7 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4944



Re: Rain Tires (fwd)
short & long tranny tailshafts
New car idiots
330 steel crank?
Re: short & long tranny tailshafts
Re: Rain Tires (fwd)
Re: Rain Tires (fwd)
Re: short & long tranny tailshafts
Re: short & long tranny tailshafts
Re: Testing sending PLAIN text as usual
The awakening.....freeze plugs
new find - rare engine
'67 330 F/S (whole or parts)
Troubleshooting '72 H/O
Re: Aurora opinions
trunk monkey
Re: trunk monkey
Re: trunk monkey
RE: [Fwd: R134]
Re: Trans Cooler Attachment Info
Re: Trans Cooler Attachment Info
Re: Troubleshooting '72 H/O
Re: Troubleshooting '72 H/O
RE: [Fwd: R134]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 18:29:49 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: Rain Tires (fwd)

At 05:57 PM 07/06/2004 -0300, Steve Reed wrote:
>All,
>	I was wondering if anyone has had any personal experiences (Good &
>Bad, of course) with any particular 'rain' tire recently.
>	I used to have (and still do actually, I just don't own her)
>Goodyear Eagle Aquatred's on my daily driver Honda.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has found a better 'summer' tire if you will, that
>still performs real well.

I've liked the wet-weather handling of the Aquatred3's . . . my only
complaint is that they're somewhat noisy tires.

I seem to recall coming across a Consumer Reports article somewhere that
compared a number of tires, and they weren't all that impressed with the
A3's cornering ability in wet weather.  Might do to hit the local library
and look up CR's tire reviews.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 18:05:12 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: short & long tranny tailshafts

I will add a couple notes.

While the shaft and housing may be swapped on a THM400, 
it must be completely disassembled to do so.  

THM400 output shafts are a much larger diameter than any 
of the others mentioned.  They also came in an O ring version 
or not, depending if a vented yoke is used.  

Although the 400 is longer than a 200, 300, or 350, I have 
able to swap in a 400 using the same driveshaft and a very 
short yoke.  

Bruce Roe

6 Jul 2004  "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> writes:
> Dan,
> 
> Go to http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm .
> 
> 
> > I have been entertaining some tranny questions recently and 
> > found another hole in my Oldsmobile Data Center (TM) 
> > specifically with the difference in tranny dimensions due to 
> > short and long tail shafts.  What's the difference in length 
> > between TH350 and 400 short/long units?  If one has a 
> > long tail shaft tranny from a B Body car destined for an A 
> > Body, can the tail shaft be swapped out for it's shorter 
> > brethren w/o much difficulty or is the only
> > option in using that tranny to cut the driveshaft? 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 18:33:07 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: New car idiots

6 Jul 2004  "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com> writes:
> > It took me a few seconds to realize what the guy said as 
> > he passed me; but it was "Get a new car, idiot,".
> > 
> > I'm fast approaching my limit of tolerance for the 
> > attitudes of people around here.

Hey, don't worry about those people who can't fix a car.  One 
said to me "your car is the ugly one" .  I just said, "guess so, 
I never thought about it.  Its just the only car to take me 300,000 
miles without a being towed, cost only $8900, and running well 
after 25 years.  Where do you think your car will be in 25 years?".  

Bruce Roe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 17:30:15 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 330 steel crank?

For that kind of parts you might contact Dusty.  Bruce Roe

 "Dusty Waymire" <dusty@midrivers.com> 

6 Jul 2004  "JOHN ORR" <jorr@paylessequipment.com> writes:
> chris,
>    don't you sell those, and how much do you get for yours? Not 
> looking just wondering
> john
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 23:14:34 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: short & long tranny tailshafts

At 12:12 PM 7/6/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Dan,
>
>Go to http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm .

Here is another one:
http://tech.oldsgmail.com/trans_dimen.html

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 23:27:06 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Rain Tires (fwd)

At 05:57 PM 7/6/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>All,
>I was wondering if anyone has had any personal experiences (Good &
>Bad, of course) with any particular 'rain' tire recently.
>I used to have (and still do actually, I just don't own her)
>Goodyear Eagle Aquatred's on my daily driver Honda.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has found a better 'summer' tire if you will, that
>still performs real well.

I dunno whether it's better than anything else like Aquatreds; but for
sure, the "new" Yokohama Avids I put on the rear of my BBA stick like glue.
I've used T/As and was very disappointed in them; they slip and slide going
forward in the wet and snow. I feel they'll suddenly break away on sharp
corners. I haven't gotten any of that feeling with the Avids on the rear
and am looking forward to trying them on the front before long.

One thing about the Avids, though: when I first got mine, they didn't seem
to have any more traction than the Goodyear Wranglers I had. It took a
cupla thousand miles before they finally became sticky.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 23:34:24 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Rain Tires (fwd)

At 06:29 PM 7/6/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I've liked the wet-weather handling of the Aquatred3's . . . my only
>complaint is that they're somewhat noisy tires.

I had the Goodyear Wranglers on the rear of the BBA for almost two years. I
finally broke down and got the Yokohama Avids when a big bolt or something
punctured the cords of one the Wranglers.

Those of you who were around two-three years ago might remember me
complaining, from time to time, about what I thought were odd rear end
noises. Never could pin them down for sure; sounded like both the ring and
pinion were outta tolerance AND the pinion bearing was shot.

Put the Avids on, and about the first thing I noticed was almost all that
noise was GONE. Them Wranglers were just plain noisy. To my ears, the Avids
are pretty quiet although they do have a satisfying squeal when you break
them loose  ;o)

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 19:36:39 -0400
From: "Pat Swanton \"swanny\"" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: short & long tranny tailshafts

Milton, thank you for that link. I was not considering messing around with
my TH 400 as of yet, but it is some info I probably would have asked later
on in the days :-)

I put it in my favorites.

Cheers
Pat Swanton
Winchester NH
1978 Cutlass Supreme
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: short & long tranny tailshafts


> Dan,
>
> Go to http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm .
>
>
> > I have been entertaining some tranny questions recently and found
another
> > hole in my Oldsmobile Data Center (TM) specifically with the difference
in
> > tranny dimensions due to short and long tail shafts.  What's the
> difference
> > in length between TH350 and 400 short/long units?  If one has a long
tail
> > shaft tranny from a B Body car destined for an A Body, can the tail
shaft
> be
> > swapped out for it's shorter brethren w/o much difficulty or is the only
> > option in using that tranny to cut the driveshaft?  And if swapping is
not
> > an option, does the crossmember need to be relocated?
>
>
> Most of your questions will be answered there. Be careful so as to not
> confuse the "B" and "C" dimensions. TH350s actually have 6", 9", and 12"
> tailhousings, and TH400s have "C", "D", and 13" tailhousings. However, the
> 13" tailhousing uses a different transmission mount, so stay away from
that
> one. The TH400 case is 3" longer than a TH350 case, so that tells you
right
> there the crossmember is going back. Actually, depending on the
tailhousing,
> the crossmember will go back 6 9/16" or 7 9/16", as per the chart. There
is
> one swap situation where the driveshaft will be the same length and
another
> where it will be almost the same length and may work without modification.
> Otherwise, the driveshaft will be rebuilt. Yes, the tailhousings and
output
> shafts can be swapped around on TH400s.
>
> Thunder Lizard uses a 9 1/2" long tailhousing on her TH400, which I'm
going
> to assume is the "D" tailhousing. Her crossmember was moved back 7 1/4"
from
> the mounting holes for the 4-speed, which is a little shorter than what's
> indicated on the chart above, but it may have something to do with the way
I
> determined the correct position for her. I simply put the crossmember
> outside the framerails, bolted it up to the tailhousing, and then marked
the
> location for the new holes on the bottom of the frame, equidistant from
the
> original holes (of which there were 4 on each side, presumably for
different
> engine/transmission combinations).
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 19:46:24 -0400
From: "Roc88ket" <roc88ket@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: short & long tranny tailshafts

Here's some info from an old email that I saved.

      Bellhousing To:
     Trans Mount Case  Overall

      Powerglide (short tail) 15.250 24.250 19.500
      Powerglide (long tail)  15.250 27.500 20.500
      THM200  27.625 27.625 20.125
      THM250  21.625 27.625 20.375
      THM350 (short tail) 21.625 27.625 20.375
      THM350 (long tail)   21.625 30.625 20.375
      THM400 (short tail) 24.375 28.250 26.750
      THM400 (long tail)  24.375 34.000 28.000
      200R4   27.750 27.750 26.875
      700R4 23.375 30.750 22.375


John


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gerow, Daniel R." <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 1:29 PM
Subject: short & long tranny tailshafts


> All,
>
> Happy Belated Independence Day to one and all!
>
> I have been entertaining some tranny questions recently and found another
> hole in my Oldsmobile Data Center (TM) specifically with the difference in
> tranny dimensions due to short and long tail shafts.  What's the
difference
> in length between TH350 and 400 short/long units?  If one has a long tail
> shaft tranny from a B Body car destined for an A Body, can the tail shaft
be
> swapped out for it's shorter brethren w/o much difficulty or is the only
> option in using that tranny to cut the driveshaft?  And if swapping is not
> an option, does the crossmember need to be relocated?  Lastly, did any A
> Bodies come with long tail shaft units?  See, I'm confuzzled!
>
> TIA,
>
>  ~ Dan
>
> -------------------------------------
> Daniel R. Gerow
> '70 W-31 4spd post
> dgerow@stonehill.edu
> http://www.oldsrocket.com
> -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 17:27:39 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Testing sending PLAIN text as usual

Yeah, it appears to be working.

M

At 09:35 PM 7/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>All,
>         I upgraded my home box this weekend, and restores my M$-Lookout
>contact list.  I'm hoping it sends plain text to the Olds list, as it
>should.
>
>Anyone who see it's first please shoot me a reply to confirm to this or ,y
>previous post on Austin Rear end shops.
>
>Thanx,
>
>Steve Reed
>'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
>'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
>'68 Cutlass Supreme
>Austin, TX
>http://www.sreed.0catch.com

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 20:59:45 -0400
From: "Kurt" <wmachine@shubes.net>
Subject: The awakening.....freeze plugs

Finally fired up the '69 today, and it runs!!!  Bought as a project car, the
(original) engine status was in question.  It has been over 3 years since it
ran last.
Even used its 6 year old battery to do it!  Seems to run really good, smooth
and with no objectionable engine noise.  The two back freeze plugs are
leaking like a sieve, though. They look like they had been installed not too
long ago, and may have been installed incorrectly.
Only ran it for a couple minutes so it didn't get too hot.  Nudged it
forward in first and in reverse, and the drive train reponded fine.
Question:
How do I remove the old freeze plugs?  Any tips on installing new ones?  I
want to do this without removing the engine, of course.

TIA,
Kurt mailto:wmachine@shubes.net
http://wmachines.shubes.net
'65 Jetstar 1 (4-speed)       '66 442 Sport Coupe (Tri-Carb, 4-speed)
'67 442 Convertible (4-speed) '69 442 Convertible (3-speed manual)
'92 Achieva SCX W-41(5-speed) '04 Expedition (no-speed)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 21:33:18 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: new find - rare engine

Found a #4 head on a #8 headed 350 today
Engine sported the A1 aluminum 2-bbl 260 intake also

About to leave, hey, what's this, an Olds engine with a weird plate where 
the water pump should be?

turns out it's an experimental engine...
odd unit at that
D2 block with EE- something casting ID on the back, no F-number casting ID 
at all.

More on that later
No email right now
might be back up n running Tuesday next.

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get tips for maintaining your PC, notebook accessories and reviews in 
Technology 101. http://special.msn.com/tech/technology101.armx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 23:50:43 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: '67 330 F/S (whole or parts)

Well, I found a '67 Delmont 88 going to the crusher and couldn't let the 330
go with it. I really shouldn't have bought the motor, but I couldn't see a
good engine being crushed. Soooooo, I'm going to sell it. Figured I'd give
y'all first shot before it hits Ebay.

I haven't seen the motor...I happened to be on the phone to a wrecking yard
when I heard someone in the background mention they were taking the forklift
up to grab the Delmont 88 for the crusher. You know you're an Oldsmoholic
when you stop a boat from being crushed when you're supposed to be checking
for parts for a customer. ;-)

Right now, all I know is that it has #4 heads and the aircleaner says
Jetfire.

I'll probably pick it up this coming weekend. Anyway, if it checks out ok,
I'm going to ask $350 complete or I'll part it out. I know I can get $150
for the crank and $100 for the heads. If interested, hit me privately at
rocket455@worldnet.att.net.

Located in Honey Brook, PA (between Philly & Harrisburg). Can deliver within
a reasonable distance for gas/tolls.

Thanks,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 07:47:01 -0400
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Troubleshooting '72 H/O

I'm trying to give a friend a hand in troubleshooting a problem with his '72
H/O. Basically an all original 45K mile car. The only mods are an 8 qt oil
pan with a high volume pump. He drives it only in nice weather maybe 1000
miles/year.

On his first drive this year he encountered a problem with the engine when
decelerating coming off a highway.  He said the oil pressure dropped to
under 15 psi and the car started running rough, stumbling a bit. He thought
he heard a noise also. maybe a "knocking" sound. At that point he shut it
down and had it towed back home.

We thought it could  be misfiring so he redid the ignition (found a bad
wire) and upon first startup everything seemed fine. As soon as it warmed up
and the idle kicked down the same rough running condition appeared with low
oil pressure and a "knocking" sound coming from the lower passenger side of
the motor.

Any ideas or comments on where to start or what could be wrong? He's hoping
it isn't too serious but it doesn't appear to be a good situation to me.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Bill Reilly
william.reilly@comcast.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 06:44:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geo <geogeethree@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aurora opinions

Blue book for that car is $5,000-5,500.  Original
retail was $33,000.  Man, they sure do depreciate!

Geo
'72 442
Digest Mode


> Guys,

> Lady up at my work has a 1995 Aurora for sale...
> Any comments on the idle or the price?

> Thanks,

> Pat Clark



		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 11:42:29 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: trunk monkey

Has anybody tried one of these trunk monkeys yet?

http://www.trunkmonkeyad.com/1wmv.htm
(Window Media Player)

http://www.trunkmonkeyad.com/1qt.htm
(Quicktime)

I find that w/ the Quicktime version, the video often doesn't kick on until
the ad is half over. Usually if I reload the page I get to see more of the
first half.

This idea is going to be big in NYC.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 11:47:35 -0400
From: "Pat Swanton \"swanny\"" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: trunk monkey

ROFLMAO.....

Cheers
Pat Swanton
Winchester NH
1978 Cutlass Supreme
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 11:42 AM
Subject: trunk monkey


> Has anybody tried one of these trunk monkeys yet?
>
> http://www.trunkmonkeyad.com/1wmv.htm
> (Window Media Player)
>
> http://www.trunkmonkeyad.com/1qt.htm
> (Quicktime)
>
> I find that w/ the Quicktime version, the video often doesn't kick on
until
> the ad is half over. Usually if I reload the page I get to see more of the
> first half.
>
> This idea is going to be big in NYC.
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 11:56:04 -0400
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: trunk monkey

I have to get myself one of those!

I especially like the one where he bribes the cop with a donut ;-)

Bill Reilly

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>

> Has anybody tried one of these trunk monkeys yet?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2004 17:03:20 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: R134]

>I'm trying to do a friend a favor. I need some info on A/C's which
>run on 134A. I have no experience with these but am not afraid to try.
>This system has a sight glass. Is it safe to assume standard operation.
>Sight glass should be clear no bubbles? Also what kind of low side
>pressure should I be looking for? I'm gussing in the 30lb range, Yes?

That sounds about right; however I would suggest picking up an R134a 
recharge kit that includes a connecting hose equipped with a pressure gauge. 
You can find a nice kit at Wal-Mart or Meijer for less than $30 that 
includes this with three cans of R134a and oil. (The gauge-equipped hose is 
also available separately, but the package deal is priced much better, and 
you'll need the refrigerant for some vehicle sooner or later anyway.)

Having a pressure gauge for a direct reading is a lot easier to work with 
than squinting for bubbles.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 11:41:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Pajak <ransomeliolds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Trans Cooler Attachment Info

- --- Paul Tumolo <ptumolo@comcast.net> wrote:
I also found a way to connect an aftermarket trans
cooler to the GM hard
lines without using any rubber hose or clamps.....
 
 OK......
 
Parker Hannifin part number PAR 48IFHD-5-4
 
Parker Hannifin part number PAR 203-4-6

You will need 2 of each. Total cost of $4.60

*****************
Paul, do you have a picture of this setup?
I was on the mfgrs website and it's confusing to say
the least.

Are these fittings brass, stainless, or what?

Thanks




=====
John Pajak

http://jspajak.tripod.com


		
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Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 15:07:57 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Trans Cooler Attachment Info

I would ask another Q: Do you connect it before the rad or after? I see
advantages of both..
Matt

> --- Paul Tumolo <ptumolo@comcast.net> wrote:
> I also found a way to connect an aftermarket trans
> cooler to the GM hard
> lines without using any rubber hose or clamps.....
>
>  OK......
>
> Parker Hannifin part number PAR 48IFHD-5-4
>
> Parker Hannifin part number PAR 203-4-6
>
> You will need 2 of each. Total cost of $4.60
>
> *****************
> Paul, do you have a picture of this setup?
> I was on the mfgrs website and it's confusing to say
> the least.
>
> Are these fittings brass, stainless, or what?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> =====
> John Pajak
>
> http://jspajak.tripod.com
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 13:31:33 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting '72 H/O

> We thought it could  be misfiring so he redid the ignition (found a bad
> wire) and upon first startup everything seemed fine. As soon as it warmed
up
> and the idle kicked down the same rough running condition appeared with
low
> oil pressure and a "knocking" sound coming from the lower passenger side
of
> the motor.


I am assuming from your description there is no sign of backfire through the
carb, which would rule out an intake valve problem. If so, with the engine
running, take a shop towel and hold it close to the back of the tailpipe. If
the towel is periodically sucked into the tailpipe, there is a leaking
exhaust valve on that bank.

Could he have taken his car out and run it very hard, to high RPM? An
exhaust valve could have momentarily stuck, hit a piston, and damaged a rod
bearing, causing a small loss of oil pressure at low idle and a miss at low
idle from the bent exhaust valve. The miss will go away as RPM increases.

Isolate the cylinder that's causing the problem, run a compression check on
it, then compare it to the other cylinders in that bank. Also, how many
miles are on the engine?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 16:59:46 -0400
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting '72 H/O

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>

>
> I am assuming from your description there is no sign of backfire through
the
> carb, which would rule out an intake valve problem.
- ---------------------------
He said it purrs like a kitten while on high idle. So I don't think there is
any back fire.

> Could he have taken his car out and run it very hard, to high RPM?
- ---------------------------
He said he was on the highway doing about 70 mph and when getting off the
exit ramp it started acting up. I don't think the rear gears are original,
but I don't think they are any higher than 3.90. So the RPMs should be
realtively normal. I don't think he was abusing it either.

>
> Isolate the cylinder that's causing the problem, run a compression check
on
> it, then compare it to the other cylinders in that bank. Also, how many
> miles are on the engine?
- ---------------------------

I 'll make those suggestions to him to see if we can come up with any more
details. The engine is all original except for the 8 qt oil pan and high
volume pump. It has @ 45000 miles on it.

You don't think it could be a spun bearing do you? What kind of sound would
that make?

Thanks,

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2004 19:24:44 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: dstaxpro@infionline.net
Subject: RE: [Fwd: R134]

- -----Original Message-----
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>

>This system has a sight glass. Is it safe to assume standard operation.
>Sight glass should be clear no bubbles? Also what kind of low side
>pressure should I be looking for? I'm gussing in the 30lb range, Yes?

Having a pressure gauge for a direct reading is a lot easier to work with 
than squinting for bubbles.

And takes all of the fun out of it for some of us hard headed people.....

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4944
*********************************
