
oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, June 13 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4918



Re: Brake line woes
qjet vacuum
Re: qjet vacuum
Re: qjet vacuum
1970 Cutlass S Hood in LA
Re: Brake line woes
RE: Brake line woes
Re: Brake line woes
RE: rechroming
RE: Brake line woes
66-442 progress
Brake line woes
Is this timing set pre-64 Olds 395 &c, or what? 
Re: qjet vacuum
Lansing Homecoming
Re: Lansing Homecoming
Re: Lansing Homecoming
Converting Gen. too 1 wire Alt questions plz.]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 18:29:53 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Brake line woes

Bruce,
your 100% right. I'm just doing the backs for now. I had a very good look at
the underneath since I put the Flowmasters on.
(3 yrs.) and I was not happy with what I saw.

I think for now I'll take care of matters at hand and put her away for a
frame up resto this winter. I'll have one of those "olds" cars that will sit
for ten years :-(........Wont be the first time.
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <bcroe@juno.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 11:13 AM
Subject: Brake line woes


> 12 Jun 2004  "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net> writes:
>
> > I started doing the brake lines on my '78 yesterday.
> > Unfortunately, every single one from the prop valve to the back
> > was rotted. Take one brake line hold off and then I get another
> > brittle line and then another.
>
> That's the way it always goes.  About the best you can do
> is do just do the front or the back.  I go into those jobs with a
> complete set of stainless lines.  Get stainless fittings on the
> ends.  Otherwise, later the fittings will corrode on and twist off
> the ends of the stainless tubes.
>
> Bruce Roe
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 19:12:15 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: qjet vacuum

could I have an advice about the timed vacuum in the Qjet? Please!
Which one is ? The Qjet is from the 76 455...it will be for the vacuum
advance of the HEI distributor
TIA
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 20:30:51 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: qjet vacuum

At 07:12 PM 06/12/2004 -0400, Matt wrote:
>could I have an advice about the timed vacuum in the Qjet? Please!
>Which one is ? The Qjet is from the 76 455...it will be for the vacuum
>advance of the HEI distributor

Well, I have a 1972, but I would imagine it's the same.  You're looking for
the "ported" vacuum tube (as opposed to manifold vacuum).

If the carb is installed, and you look at it from the front, it's a tube
that sticks out straight toward the front, and is located a little to the
driver's side and kind of low on the carburetor.  (I'm trying to do this
from memory).

To be absolutely sure though, I'd hook up a vacuum gauge to it, and make
sure it's producing NO vacuum at idle, and produces a lot at light
throttle.  You can temporarily hook up the distributor to manifold vacuum,
but that, I understand, can make it difficult to start the car.

Like I said, though, that's where it is on a 1972.  I don't know if that
changed over the years, but I would assume it hasn't.

	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 01:42:56 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: qjet vacuum

At 08:30 PM 6/12/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, I have a 1972, but I would imagine it's the same.  You're looking for
>the "ported" vacuum tube (as opposed to manifold vacuum).
>
>If the carb is installed, and you look at it from the front, it's a tube
>that sticks out straight toward the front, and is located a little to the
>driver's side and kind of low on the carburetor.  (I'm trying to do this
>from memory).

That's the same spot where it's located on the e-Qjets, too.

>To be absolutely sure though, I'd hook up a vacuum gauge to it, and make
>sure it's producing NO vacuum at idle, and produces a lot at light
>throttle.  You can temporarily hook up the distributor to manifold vacuum,
>but that, I understand, can make it difficult to start the car.

You can just hold your finger over it to test it.

>Like I said, though, that's where it is on a 1972.  I don't know if that
>changed over the years, but I would assume it hasn't.

It didn't change with the e-Qjets, which is reassuring. Had e-Qjets been
made by Microshaft, God only knows where it would have come out. And
everything about the ported vacuum spigot would have been different EVERY
year  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 21:36:28 -0700
From: "mitzm" <mitzm@earthlink.net>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass S Hood in LA

For those local who might be interested in such a thing the pick-a-part in
Wilmington (LA harbor area) on north Blinn had a 70 cutlass S today with a
very nice hood and almost straight front bumper (with nice turn signals).
Not much else, drum fronts, 350 with 2 bbl, mangled AC rest of body has
various damage.   Trunk lid might be nice if you can figure out a way to
unlock it.       Front bumper has the all to familliar sling tow truck
induced slight frown.    Would be fine as a driver with a bit of
straightening.   Rt side grill plastic almost perfect. left side trashed.
I don't have room to store this kind of stuff so had to pass.

These type of cars are becoming very rare here.  About time to throw in the
towel on the junk yard cruising hobby.   Great if you want G body stuff
though.  OK exercise I guess.

Hans

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 00:44:51 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Brake line woes

I just got done doing complete brake lines on the now-famous $300 1990
Custom Cruiser (the interior is MINT!). If you're not going to drop money on
stainless lines, I highly recommend the stuff Autozone stocks. It's pliable
enough that you can bend it with your hands with virtually no fear of
kinking (though I still recommend a kickass two-piece brake line bender.)

Speaking of the wagon, we had problems bleeding the rear brakes -- SOMETIMES
it would bleed, other times nothing would come out of the bleeder and the
brakes wouldn't function. We seemed to pinpoint the problem to be
time-related -- if we didn't wait at least 30 seconds, maybe more, the pedal
would become hard and no pressure would be applied to the rear. We replaced
the master cylinder with a new one that happened to be lying around just for
the hell of it.
What the hell is going on with this thing?? This can't be normal
functioning????
- ----- Original Message ----- >
> The worst part is bending the lines W/O kinking them. I also found out I
> might just be better off doing a frame off restoration.  I tried just
> plugging the rear line off the prop valve so I could at least move the
car,
> but I couldn't find the correct fittings to block it off with.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 02:01:11 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: Brake line woes

Good chance the rubber hose to the axel is shot. Often looks fine but
collapsed inside and blocks fluid from going through.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Chris Carson
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2004 12:45 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Brake line woes


I just got done doing complete brake lines on the now-famous $300 1990
Custom Cruiser (the interior is MINT!). If you're not going to drop money on
stainless lines, I highly recommend the stuff Autozone stocks. It's pliable
enough that you can bend it with your hands with virtually no fear of
kinking (though I still recommend a kickass two-piece brake line bender.)

Speaking of the wagon, we had problems bleeding the rear brakes -- SOMETIMES
it would bleed, other times nothing would come out of the bleeder and the
brakes wouldn't function. We seemed to pinpoint the problem to be
time-related -- if we didn't wait at least 30 seconds, maybe more, the pedal
would become hard and no pressure would be applied to the rear. We replaced
the master cylinder with a new one that happened to be lying around just for
the hell of it.
What the hell is going on with this thing?? This can't be normal
functioning????
- ----- Original Message ----- >
> The worst part is bending the lines W/O kinking them. I also found out I
> might just be better off doing a frame off restoration.  I tried just
> plugging the rear line off the prop valve so I could at least move the
car,
> but I couldn't find the correct fittings to block it off with.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 06:21:23 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Brake line woes

Thats where I got my lines from, and I have a 1 piece line bender. The
hardest bend was at the junction line for the rears. It bends up over the
upper control arm and down along the frame.
I also found the same problem bleeding the rears as you said. I found it
easier to have the engiine running and that way there was plenty of boost to
keep the pedal up and the MC pressurized properly

Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2004 12:44 AM
Subject: Re: Brake line woes


~snipped~
> Speaking of the wagon, we had problems bleeding the rear brakes --
SOMETIMES
> it would bleed, other times nothing would come out of the bleeder and the
> brakes wouldn't function. We seemed to pinpoint the problem to be
> time-related -- if we didn't wait at least 30 seconds, maybe more, the
pedal
> would become hard and no pressure would be applied to the rear. We
replaced
> the master cylinder with a new one that happened to be lying around just
for
> the hell of it.
> What the hell is going on with this thing?? This can't be normal
> functioning????

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 08:50:51 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: rechroming

Sherman,

>Does anybody know of any local re chroming places in Atlanta
	 
>Sherman F Higgins
>goodfoot@ix.netcom.com

I have a few different places for chroming in my 3-ring binder of info, but
nothing located in Atlanta.

Steve Reed
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop
'68 Cutlass Supreme 
Austin, TX
http://www.sreed.0catch.com

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Bumper service of Houston
1200 Givens
Houston, TX
77077
713-869-3335

M&P Refinishing
704 Clay Ave.
Jeannette, PA
15644
724-527-6360

Rechrome Parts Ltd.
96 E. Main St.
Mendham, NJ
07945
800-516-7278
www.oldntime.com

Libransi's plating
93 Airport Drive
Middletown, PA
17075
www.carchrome.com

Bumper re-chroming:

North Star Bumper Exchange
5085 Wren Drive
Appleton, WI
54913
920-731-3030

Tri-City Plating
705 N. Lynne Ave
Elizabethton, TN
37643
423-542-1690

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 14:42:12 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Brake line woes

At 02:01 AM 6/13/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Good chance the rubber hose to the axel is shot. Often looks fine but
>collapsed inside and blocks fluid from going through.

..... or it could have rust particles built up somewhere inside, especially
since you had to replace the steel lines.

Come to think of it, I wonder if that's the problem with my own '88 BBA's
rear brakes, which have been somewhat less than mediocre since I've owned
the car....

Steve  ?:o| H

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:10:50 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 66-442 progress

It's amazing how many little things need work during a restoration.
HOURS and hours into the dashboard and in-car wiring. My assistant wants to 
hurry and cut corners. I know that there is no time like the present to take 
care of say chafed wires in the fusebox. It will not get better over time.

Anyhow, got the dash and wiring in last night. Ign sw was stripped, kept 
working loose. No key for it anyhow- had one before... lost now? Anyhow, I 
got one from my stash, and a cylinder from a '67 Toro, with lame old cheap 
copy key. Good for now. Heater control cables all hooked up- far RH one was 
tough to get to work right. Adjustment on the plenum would not adjust far 
enough to let mechanism work smoothly. Elongated the slot, fixed that.

Got battery out and put here first acid in yesterday. Vac line run for the 
distributor and Economy Gage.

Steering wheel and turn signal lever in place for the first time. Inside 
looks like a CAR now. Well, a car w/o front seats.

It'd be nice to have it at least driving, if not fully tuned and tweaked and 
aligned, by the Homecoming 6/19
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups – now 3 months FREE! 
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:12:50 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Brake line woes

Sounds like the rear brake hose is going, does weird things.

Bruce Roe

13 Jun 2004  "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net> writes:
> we had problems bleeding the rear brakes --  SOMETIMES
> it would bleed, other times nothing would come out of the 
> bleeder and the brakes wouldn't function. We seemed to 
> pinpoint the problem to be time-related -- if we didn't wait 
> at least 30 seconds, maybe more, the pedal would become 
> hard and no pressure would be applied to the rear. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 13:01:02 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Is this timing set pre-64 Olds 395 &c, or what? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2482098145

Anybody recognize this thing at all?
Came to me with a box of "455 Olds" stuff, like these decidedly short for 
455 pushrods:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2482096764&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Any tips appreciated.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 16:33:55 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: qjet vacuum

Thanks Joe and Steve - I needed a start line . The 76 Qjet has a lot of
vacuum tubes. I will start with the one you talk about guys
thanks Matt
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Harrison" <k0xp@dandy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: qjet vacuum


> At 08:30 PM 6/12/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >Well, I have a 1972, but I would imagine it's the same.  You're looking
for
> >the "ported" vacuum tube (as opposed to manifold vacuum).
> >
> >If the carb is installed, and you look at it from the front, it's a tube
> >that sticks out straight toward the front, and is located a little to the
> >driver's side and kind of low on the carburetor.  (I'm trying to do this
> >from memory).
>
> That's the same spot where it's located on the e-Qjets, too.
>
> >To be absolutely sure though, I'd hook up a vacuum gauge to it, and make
> >sure it's producing NO vacuum at idle, and produces a lot at light
> >throttle.  You can temporarily hook up the distributor to manifold
vacuum,
> >but that, I understand, can make it difficult to start the car.
>
> You can just hold your finger over it to test it.
>
> >Like I said, though, that's where it is on a 1972.  I don't know if that
> >changed over the years, but I would assume it hasn't.
>
> It didn't change with the e-Qjets, which is reassuring. Had e-Qjets been
> made by Microshaft, God only knows where it would have come out. And
> everything about the ported vacuum spigot would have been different EVERY
> year  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\
>
> SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 16:35:27 -0500
From: "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Lansing Homecoming

Could someone give me details of the show on the 19th. Times, fees, meeting
places etc. I plan on driving my 70 W31, leaving Illinois on Friday and
probably stopping in Delton and then taking Rt 43 to Lansing. Thanks,

Dan Bodine
70 W31
71 442
OCA Member

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 17:46:18 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing Homecoming

Dan....the show starts at 9 am and lasts till 4 pm...ok I have to get my
barings but I am sure if you do a map quest search u can find the best way
to get from Delton to the show. The show is going to be on the corner of
Canal and Billwood. But I would say get on East 96 and than get off on Exit
98A. You will head south/west to the corner of Canal and Billwood. I dont
see a website but there is a email addy for a Scott Whittaker for more
info......

Hope to see ya there.....I have a '68 Cutty and have the 13 star American
Flag covering the package tray.

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 18:02:34 -0400
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing Homecoming

Blonde moment...I guess it would help if I added the email for Scott.....LOL

whitsaw99@aol.com

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 18:59:03 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net (Randy Hermsen)
Subject: Converting Gen. too 1 wire Alt questions plz.]

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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 16:54:19 -0400
From: Cutlass7276
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Converting Gen. too 1 wire Alt questions plz.
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Hello
I fabbed a bracket and mounted, belted a single wire rebuilt Alt on the 58 yesterday.
Today elec. buddy is comin to wire her.
I could pull 3 motors before i could wire one!
>From what i can see the Gen Armature wire would just be a grd?
The Gen Field wire will go on the post on new 1 wire Alt?
I guessin the External reg. will just get removed?
Is there anything i can pass on to the elec. when he gets here to help him.
I obviously dont have a clue when i comes too wires :O...
If i touch it the magic smoke will come out and wont werk no mo!
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.


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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4918
*********************************
