
oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, June 6 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4911



Re: Block Web Breakage?
'78 98 Oil Pressure Problem
Intriguing Day
Re: Block Web Breakage?
Re: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem
posi
Re: posi
Re: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem
Milton Schick 
Re: Block Web Breakage?
Re: Milton Schick 
looking for a '60 Lf Fender & Filler
Re: Wheelstanding 1968 442 with trailer $12.5k or less eVil
'78 98 Oil Pressure Problem
Re: Milton Schick 
Junction doo-hicky on firewall
Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
RE: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
67 Delta 88 - B-body
Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
Re: 67 Delta 88 - B-body
RE: 67 Delta 88 - B-body
RE: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
Parting out Aurora
Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
Cruisin' the Gut '04
teasing
1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 15:09:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?

On Sat, 5 Jun 2004, Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote:
> When Olds brought out the 425 engine, they immediately began to market it to
> the industrial and marine community. They were successful, but when the 455
> was released, Olds took over the industrial market almost overnight at
> nearly 100%. That was how good the Olds industrial 455 was. That engine was
> usually run on propane. The Olds industrial engine was marketed from 1968
> into sometime in the early '80s, long after those engine were no longer
> available in cars.

This would seem to indicate that the 455 was produced after 1976. Anyone
know if that is the case?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 13:14:18 -0500
From: "spddemun" <kkas@hotmail.com>
Subject: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem

I am the original owner of a '78 98 with 244K original miles; 350 V8 4Bbl,
Auto, A/C.

For the past 2 years, the Oil light comes on at idle speed, but doesn't stay
on, just kind of pulses.  It comes on after about 15 min. of driving (takes
a little longer in winter).  At stop lights, I have to keep my foot on the
gas and brake and give it a little 'gas' to keep the Oil light from coming
on; it doesn't try to stall or anything.

It has always had oil/filter changes every 3K mi./3 mos. and when I check
the oil level weekly, it's always fine.

It is also leaking oil daily on the driveway.  Not a small spot, but a lot
all over.  I think at one time I was told the head gaskets needed replacing,
so I'm wondering if this is the cause of the leak, and possible
low-compression is causing the Oil light to come on?

I am physically unable to do the work myself, and money IS an object.  I
don't know how much longer I will be able to keep it running.  I think it's
getting tired after 26 yrs.

Any suggestions on what is wrong?  Cost to fix?

spddemun
Houston, TX

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 15:20:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Intriguing Day

Yesterday I took my Intrigue in for service and complained about the brake
vibration that started after the dealership tech air-wrenched the lugs
back on last time after rotating the tires. I have to say they were
great... they replaced the rotors under warranty and turned the rear
rotors after they road-tested it with the new front rotors, all at no
charge. It now brakes nice and smoooooooth.

I had to go on a business trip yesterday and arranged for a rental car
from National, who are located at the dealership. They gave me the keys to
a Monte Carlo with 1500 km on the clock. I got in and... ugh. Not a nice
interior at all. I tried to adjust the outside mirrors and the control
fell thru the armrest into the door. Went back inside, and the guy tossed
me the keys to a Chrysler Pacifica. The thing is only slightly smaller
than the Queen Mary, but after some adjustment I really liked it. It has
an absolutely beautiful interior, the kind GM ought to learn how to
produce. Didn't handle as well as the Intrigue and since it's so large it
is down on power, but it rode beautifully and was a great highway cruiser.
Thirsty beast though. 

GM needs to learn how to make good-looking interiors again. This morning
it was a warm, sunny day for the first time in weeks and I drove past a
Chrysler dealer who had a Crossfire roadster parked outside with the top
down. I stopped by to take a look. If I had $50K Cdn with nothing else to
spend it on I'd be tempted. What a neat car, especially the one I saw, a
medium blue metallic with a cream-and-black interior with lots of aluminum
accents. Extreme drool factor. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 11:44:46 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?

> > The Olds industrial engine was marketed from 1968
> > into sometime in the early '80s, long after those engine were no longer
> > available in cars.
>
> This would seem to indicate that the 455 was produced after 1976. Anyone
> know if that is the case?


That's what I had been told by Metcalf Olds in downtown Kansas City, if I'm
remembering the name correctly (Ken Snyder - northbound on Main, coming down
off the hill, to the right - east - beside the huge NAPA main warehouse,
just south of the Union Train Station), around the time I was there in the
very late '70s, just before I moved to Tucson in May 1979, talking to them
about the strange Olds 260 engine. I was buying some misc. parts from the
parts dept. for my stockpile. At that time, well after 1976, the Olds
dealership said that GM's industrial division was still selling 455 Olds
industrial engines. I assumed they may have been sold until the early '80s.
That's just my guess, since industrial uses were not EPA regulated like
cars, and the 455 Olds industrial engine ran either on propane or MAPP gas,
which the EPA looked upon with favor.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 11:53:13 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem

Unfortunately, I've lost 3 engines to what you are describing. That low oil
pressure is caused with warm, thin oil running through rod and main bearings
with excessive wear clearance. Your engine is old and worn. Someday, one of
the rod bearings will spin and lock up the engine. It could be something
more simple like a very weak pressure spring in the oil pump, caused by
time, or oil return passages blocked in the heads, refusing to allow oil to
flow back to the pan, causing the oil supply to run low. However, if that
were the case in both instances, the light probably would not go out when
you revved the engine. More so for the blocked oil return passages than for
a weak oil pump spring. I'd bet on a worn engine with excessive rod and main
bearing clearances. When engine RPMs increase, a larger quantity of oil is
forced through the bearings, causing the oil pressure to increase a little.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "spddemun" <kkas@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 11:14 AM
Subject: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem


> I am the original owner of a '78 98 with 244K original miles; 350 V8 4Bbl,
> Auto, A/C.
>
> For the past 2 years, the Oil light comes on at idle speed, but doesn't
stay
> on, just kind of pulses.  It comes on after about 15 min. of driving
(takes
> a little longer in winter).  At stop lights, I have to keep my foot on the
> gas and brake and give it a little 'gas' to keep the Oil light from coming
> on; it doesn't try to stall or anything.
>
> It has always had oil/filter changes every 3K mi./3 mos. and when I check
> the oil level weekly, it's always fine.
>
> It is also leaking oil daily on the driveway.  Not a small spot, but a lot
> all over.  I think at one time I was told the head gaskets needed
replacing,
> so I'm wondering if this is the cause of the leak, and possible
> low-compression is causing the Oil light to come on?
>
> I am physically unable to do the work myself, and money IS an object.  I
> don't know how much longer I will be able to keep it running.  I think
it's
> getting tired after 26 yrs.
>
> Any suggestions on what is wrong?  Cost to fix?
>
> spddemun
> Houston, TX
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 12:00:59 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: posi

Anyone know if this would fit my 67 cutlass supreme?
Right now I have a stock 3.08 one legger.

Pontiac/Olds Posi '67 Full Size 3.08 Posi unit w/ R + P in excellent
condition & is ready to install. Fits most mid 60's Pontiac/Olds full size.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 12:34:49 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: posi

It won't fit. Two different axle housings.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 12:00 PM
Subject: posi


> Anyone know if this would fit my 67 cutlass supreme?
> Right now I have a stock 3.08 one legger.
>
> Pontiac/Olds Posi '67 Full Size 3.08 Posi unit w/ R + P in excellent
> condition & is ready to install. Fits most mid 60's Pontiac/Olds full
size.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 19:48:59 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem

At 01:14 PM 6/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>For the past 2 years, the Oil light comes on at idle speed, but doesn't stay
>on, just kind of pulses.  It comes on after about 15 min. of driving (takes
>a little longer in winter).  At stop lights, I have to keep my foot on the
>gas and brake and give it a little 'gas' to keep the Oil light from coming
>on; it doesn't try to stall or anything.

Very likely, the oil pressure switch is bad. I would hook up a mechanical
oil pressure gauge just to check the pressure. The switch is supposed to
operate the light if the pressure drops below about 7 PSI. My 1988 307 has
over 230K miles and the oil pressure doesn't drop below 30 PSI even on the
hottest day and after 3000 miles, when it gets somewhat diluted with fuel
that's leaked past the rings.

>It is also leaking oil daily on the driveway.  Not a small spot, but a lot
>all over.  I think at one time I was told the head gaskets needed replacing,
>so I'm wondering if this is the cause of the leak, and possible
>low-compression is causing the Oil light to come on?

Do you smell burning oil when the engine's warm/hot, or after you've shut
it off? See any small clouds of burning oil seeping from around the hood
when it's shut off? Then you have leaking valve cover gaskets.

The engine gets oil up into the top of the heads through the lifters and
pushrods; there's no pressurized oil passages passing through the head
gaskets. In the rear and front of each head, there is an oil passage about
3/8" diameter for oil to return to the lifter gallery after collecting in
the top of the heads but since that's not pressurized, it's extremely
unlikely that a head gasket could have sprung a leak at any of those areas.

More likely, your oil pan bolts have worked somewhat loose through the
years and you're getting some leakage past the pan gasket. Simply
tightening the pan bolts may stop the majority of the leaks. There may
still be some small amount of leaking from either or both the front seal in
the timing cover, from the timing cover gasket itself, or the rear main
seal. Since you say the oil isn't a small spot but is "all over", my bet is
loose pan bolts. Replacing the timing cover gasket and front seal isn't
real tuff to do but won't be any fun and would take the better part of a
day. While yer at it, I would also replace the timing chain and maybe the
water pump, too, since you're there to begin with. Replacing the rear main
seal requires dropping the oil pan which will likely require raising the
engine a few inches. If yer gonna drop the oil pan, you mitaswell also
replace the oil pump which would be the primary suspect of low oil pressure.

>I am physically unable to do the work myself, and money IS an object.  I
>don't know how much longer I will be able to keep it running.  I think it's
>getting tired after 26 yrs.
>
>Any suggestions on what is wrong?  Cost to fix?

Depends upon the shop/mechanic but replacing the front or rear
seals/gaskets won't be awfully cheap if only because it'll take some time.
An oil pump shouldn't cost moren $50 or so. Tightening the pan bolts can be
done within 15 minutes or so, maybe less if up on a lift, so I'd certainly
do that first. While yer at it, have the mechanic hook up a mechanical oil
pressure gauge to check the pressure with the engine hot. If it's OK, a new
switch will run something like $12 IIRC. If it's actually low, a new oil
pump is called for although you can get by with what you've been doing:
keeping the rpm up while at idle.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 14:55:28 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Milton Schick 

Hello list-

I've been reading the recent discussion on the 455 #3 main cracking issue 
and I have to say that Mr. Schick is one incredibly intelegent fellow.   
Milton, do us and our posterity a favor and write a book, detailing every 
aspect of the Oldsmobile drivetrain.  From the recent posts it would be 
facinating reading.  I'd say we're all fortunate to have Mr. Schick around.  
Now if I could just get him to come over and look under my hood.... ; )


On digest mode
Scott White
93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 20:02:56 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?

At 11:44 AM 6/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> > The Olds industrial engine was marketed from 1968
>> > into sometime in the early '80s, long after those engine were no longer
>> > available in cars.
>>
>> This would seem to indicate that the 455 was produced after 1976. Anyone
>> know if that is the case?
>
>
>That's what I had been told by Metcalf Olds in downtown Kansas City, if I'm
>remembering the name correctly

My uncle used to pick up used tires from Metcalf, as well as any other
dealerships including the Firestone warehouse in KC. He'd take em back to
the shop and regroove em  ;o\

>(Ken Snyder - northbound on Main, coming down off the hill, to the right - 
>east - beside the huge NAPA main warehouse, just south of the Union Train 
>Station),

For one year, my granddad operated a shop in the big bay underneath the
KCMO TV/radio towers. When my grandparents moved out to Belton, you could
see the tower lights from the living room winders. Grandad built around a
hundred of the houses out there in Belton during the '70s.

Damb, you brought back some very fond, favorite memories. I'd almost kill
to live there now  ;o((((  I just wish I could have treated my kids to
vacations out there while they were growing up, like I enjoyed.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 20:15:12 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Milton Schick 

At 02:55 PM 6/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello list-
>
>I've been reading the recent discussion on the 455 #3 main cracking issue 
>and I have to say that Mr. Schick is one incredibly intelegent fellow.   
>Milton, do us and our posterity a favor and write a book, detailing every 
>aspect of the Oldsmobile drivetrain.  From the recent posts it would be 
>facinating reading.  I'd say we're all fortunate to have Mr. Schick around.  
>Now if I could just get him to come over and look under my hood.... ; )
>
>
>On digest mode
>Scott White

You'll never be able to get Milton to go where a palm tree won't grown,
Scotty  ;o|

(That's the line an old friend living in SoCal keeps giving me)

SteveH

P.S. Note: Scotty is in northern Wisconsin where summer's two weeks long
;o\

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 17:22:49 -0400
From: "James Baker" <jebaker@netva.com>
Subject: looking for a '60 Lf Fender & Filler

A friend of mine is redoing a '60 Super 88 as a daily driver.
He needs a mostly straight, rust-free left fender and "filler" panel (the
one that goes under the battery tray).
Any of you have them for sale or know where he might get them?
Thanks,
Dr. James Baker

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 17:54:20 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Wheelstanding 1968 442 with trailer $12.5k or less eVil

On Jun 3, 2004, at 9:04 AM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 13:59:18 -0600
> From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> Subject: Re: Wheelstanding 1968 442 with trailer $12.5k or less eVil
>
> chris smetana wrote:
>
>> Yes, I do believe this is the same Butch that used to post here.  This
>> car used to have MANY 455 Olds in it.  IIRC, he kept ripping out the
>> area IN THE BLOCK where the #3 main cap goes.
>
> I believe this is similar to the problem Milton had except he cured it
> with a forged 455 crank and added counterweights.
>
> Now if forged 455 cranks grew on trees ... well lets just say Sir Isaac
> Newton would have had the gravity of sitting under trees impressed upon
> him. :)  Sorry, it's a slow news day.
>
> Pity Cola Cranks did not decide to have even a limited run.
>
> <The O.C. (olds content)> Apparently the director of Spiderman, Sam
> Raimi, owns a yellow 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88 which he tries to place 
> in
> his films.  In Spiderman I believe it was Peters dad's car.

Peter's uncle, actually.

>  He says he
> needed a car in his first movie and his mom lent him the Delta and he
> somehow fit it into each movie he has made.

And yes, it's in all of Raimi's films all the way back to The Evil Dead 
- - it's Ash's car. In Army of Darkness, it gets converted to a 
steam-powered Deadite crusher. :)
There are websites, or at least sub-pages, dedicated to this thing.

>   Given that, shouldn't we
> have a contest to see who spots it first in this summers Spiderman 2?

Yer on!

> - --Cliff "If I had a million dollars, I'd be rich." Simpson & Kermit
> http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

Kevin Wright                                krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                   http://www.wankel.net/~krwright

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 18:59:13 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem

An oil pressure guage will tell you a lot.  After some Olds experience, 
I decided a somewhat worn, hot engine was allowing way too low 
oil pressure at idle, and the wear process would tend to snowball.  
I now use a high volume pump, high strength pump shaft, and a 
pan that takes at least 5 1/2 quarts (diesel pan on a 403).  I find 
this keeps th MINIMUM oil pressure a lot higher, and I thing extends 
the wear process way out instead of snowballing.   

Its not the release spring, if reving brings up pressure.  Bruce Roe

5 Jun 2004  "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> writes:
> Unfortunately, I've lost 3 engines to what you are describing. That 
> low oil pressure is caused with warm, thin oil running through rod 
> and main bearings with excessive wear clearance. Your engine is 
> old and worn. Someday, one of the rod bearings will spin and lock 
> up the engine. It could be something more simple like a very weak 
> pressure spring in the oil pump, caused by time, or oil return 
> passages blocked in the heads, refusing to allow oil to flow back 
> to the pan, causing the oil supply to run low. However, if that were 
> the case in both instances, the light probably would not go out 
> when you revved the engine. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:30:08 -0400
From: "John Orr" <olds330@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Milton Schick 

  yea, what Scott said!!!!  :-)

john
67 cutlass supreme 4 speed

      " I have to say that Mr. Schick is one incredibly intelegent fellow."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 21:58:22 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

Hopefully some of you are here late Saturday night to answer this.
I took a couple pictures of this "junction box" which bolt onto the firewall
in my 67 cutlass.
My single wire alternator wire connects to it, part of the engine wiring
harness which goes to my headlights etc also goes to it, a starter wire goes
to it.
5 parts stores couldn't identify it for replacement or anything else for
that matter.
It says on the top metal cap "Little Fuse Inc."
The plastic was so brittle that while carefully unbolting it it snapped. I
ended up opening it to see if it actually had any real functionality. The
inside contained a copper coil of some sort which didn't appear to be
functional as the inside was completely corroded and just as brittle as the
plastic housing.
I am wondering if I can replace this with a simple post and reconnect all
the same wires origimally connected to it OR if I really need anohter one.
Seems like I should have to REPLACE it since the inards were toasted and
must have been for some time with no problems associated with electrical
etc...
Any help and info would be appreciated.
http://216.22.28.163/oldsmobile/junctionbox.JPG
http://216.22.28.163/oldsmobile/junctionbox3.JPG
http://216.22.28.163/oldsmobile/junctionbox2.JPG
The images are a little hefty in size.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 05:20:53 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

At 09:58 PM 6/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Hopefully some of you are here late Saturday night to answer this.
>I took a couple pictures of this "junction box" which bolt onto 
>the firewall in my 67 cutlass.
>My single wire alternator wire connects to it, part of the engine 
>wiring harness which goes to my headlights etc also goes to it, a 
>starter wire goes to it.
>5 parts stores couldn't identify it for replacement or anything else for
>that matter.

Isn't that also the horn relay????? If it has one wire going to the horns,
that's what it is. Then the other small wire goes to the horn contacts in
the steery wheel.

>It says on the top metal cap "Little Fuse Inc."

They made a LOT of solenoids, relays, etc. back in the day. Today, they
make a lot of fuse and circuit breaker boxes so the company's still around
(although probly owned by someone else).

Fusicks likely has new ones. For right now, yes, you can just use a post.
You can also wire up a regular relay (good for 2 or 3 amps, with a 12V DC
coil) from Radio Shack to take its place until you can get another one. A
Frod starter relay won't work because one side of the coil is connected to
ground through the metal mounting bracket, whereas the original grounded
the coil through the horn contact in the steery wheel.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 22:43:58 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: RE: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

Thank you so very much for your help.
 
> Fusicks likely has new ones. For right now, yes, you can just 
> use a post.

I will look.

> A Frod starter relay won't work because one side 
> of the coil is connected to ground through the metal mounting 
> bracket, whereas the original grounded the coil through the 
> horn contact in the steery wheel.

This part I don't understand.
"A Frod starter relay won't work "...
Does this mean if I wire all the originally connected wires - minus the horn
in/out - including the starter wire that I will not be able to start my car?
There are two wires that go to the starter from the post part of this
piece.. A thin one and a really thick one. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 23:08:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 67 Delta 88 - B-body

- --0-266351548-1086502097=:43097
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Well I got the rebuilt P/S gear box in, the rebuilt P/S pump and centerlink on the car and man is this car really enjoyable to drive. It is so responsive, so smooth, so nice not to drift anymore. And of course while under the car I found that the upper ball joints need replacing. They were the only parts unavailable at the time of the rebuild about 5 years ago.(six month wait)
I'm really considering a disk brake conversion. Now the FAQ is very helpful, but.... Well I've seen reference to A-body, B-body (I know mines a B-body) G-body etc,,, could some one please tell me what cars fit into what catagorie's  I need to start looking for a donor, and don't know what to look for.
 
Bill G
67 Delta 88 Custom 
87 Custom Wagon   

- --0-266351548-1086502097=:43097
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>Well I got the rebuilt P/S gear box in, the rebuilt P/S pump and centerlink on the car and man is this car really enjoyable to drive. It is so responsive, so smooth, so nice not to drift anymore. And of course while under the car I found that the upper ball joints need replacing. They were the only parts unavailable at the time of the rebuild about 5 years ago.(six month wait)</DIV>
<DIV>I'm&nbsp;really considering a disk brake conversion. Now the FAQ is very helpful, but.... Well I've seen reference to A-body, B-body (I know mines a B-body) G-body etc,,, could some one please tell me what cars fit into what catagorie's&nbsp;&nbsp;I need to start looking for a donor, and don't know what to look for.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bill&nbsp;G</DIV>
<DIV>67 Delta&nbsp;88 Custom&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>87 Custom Wagon&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
- --0-266351548-1086502097=:43097--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 23:28:18 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

That's the horn relay that should be mounted in the center of the left inner
fenderwell. Standard-Blue Streak part number is HR-122. Fits Olds from
1960-1967.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 06:26:23 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Delta 88 - B-body

> I'm really considering a disk brake conversion. Now the FAQ is very
helpful, but.... Well I've seen reference to A-body, B-body (I know mines a
B-body) G-body etc,,, could some one please tell me what cars fit into what
catagorie's  I need to start looking for a donor, and don't know what to
look for
>
> Bill G
> 67 Delta 88 Custom
> 87 Custom Wagon

- ----------------------------

For the donor car, you will be looking for a '69 or '70 full size Olds (88
or 98) with front discs.  Pretty much all '70 big cars had the discs (it was
theoretically possible to order a stripper 88 with manual drums), most '69's
were still drum.  Stay with these years.  The earlier disc option used the
goofy four piston caliper that is very hard to get parts for these days.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 09:53:31 -0400
From: Jack Kopf <jkopf@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: 67 Delta 88 - B-body

Anyone try using newer spindles from a later year with the 12 inch
rotors from a '68-'70 big car? I want to go as large as possible. The
offerings from the aftermarket are almost nonexistent for big GM cars
until you get to about 1988 or so.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Frederick Nissen
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 6:26 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 67 Delta 88 - B-body


> I'm really considering a disk brake conversion. Now the FAQ is very
helpful, but.... Well I've seen reference to A-body, B-body (I know mines a
B-body) G-body etc,,, could some one please tell me what cars fit into what
catagorie's  I need to start looking for a donor, and don't know what to
look for
>
> Bill G
> 67 Delta 88 Custom
> 87 Custom Wagon

- ----------------------------

For the donor car, you will be looking for a '69 or '70 full size Olds (88
or 98) with front discs.  Pretty much all '70 big cars had the discs (it was
theoretically possible to order a stripper 88 with manual drums), most '69's
were still drum.  Stay with these years.  The earlier disc option used the
goofy four piston caliper that is very hard to get parts for these days.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 13:50:46 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

At 10:43 PM 6/5/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Thank you so very much for your help.
> 
>> Fusicks likely has new ones. For right now, yes, you can just 
>> use a post.
>
>I will look.
>
>> A Frod starter relay won't work because one side 
>> of the coil is connected to ground through the metal mounting 
>> bracket, whereas the original grounded the coil through the 
>> horn contact in the steery wheel.
>
>This part I don't understand.
>"A Frod starter relay won't work "...
>Does this mean if I wire all the originally connected wires - minus the horn
>in/out - including the starter wire that I will not be able to start my car?
>There are two wires that go to the starter from the post part of this
>piece.. A thin one and a really thick one. 

No, it doesn't mean it won't start the car. You would ordinarily wire up
the Frod starter relay to act as a horn relay; it has nothing at all to do
with starting, just like your original relay didn't. But you only need a
low-current relay for the horn, to handle several amperes. That's why I
said you could use a relay from Radio Shack in the meantime. They have them.

To start your car, your ignition switch connects batt voltage to the
starter solenoid, which is mounted on the starter. There's also a large
cable carrying battery power to the starter. The ignition switch applies
power to energize the solenoid which then connects the battery to the
starter and VROOM. Has nothing to do with the post relay you're trying to
replace, which acted as a junction block to distribute battery power to
other places, in addition to being a horn relay.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 10:14:04 -0400
From: "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Parting out Aurora

The time has come to kill my Aurora, so if anyone needs some parts let me
know.
The body is in geat shape, with good paint (champagne), I have 2 new tires
(<3000 miles on them).  I'm currently planning on using the seats and door
panels to fabricate furniture for the basement, but if someone needs those
parts I may change my plans.

Kurt Heinrich
'71 442 - NEVER to be parted
'95 Aurora - to be parted
old442@adelphia.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 10:20:52 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

> >> A Frod starter relay won't work because one side
> >> of the coil is connected to ground through the metal mounting
> >> bracket,

There are two versions of the Ford relay. One is insulated and not grounded
through the bracket. Many snow plow set-ups and certain older lawn tractors
use this one. Your local parts store *should* be able to tell you which one
is which.

> No, it doesn't mean it won't start the car.  it has nothing at all to do
> with starting, just like your original relay didn't.

I disagree.....I've had a couple horn relays go bad in my '70-'72 Cutlass'
and '64 S88 over the years and non-starting was the result. The ignition
switch does tie into the horn relay.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 10:51:11 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Cruisin' the Gut '04

Got several photos last night
Quite a few 442's and the like
Only one 1968 442 convertible :-)
The handbuilt aluminum car was there again
The dragon car with swords for shifter and door handles, fire breathing 
dragon in/ protruding from the hood, etc.
Rolls-Royce
Ricer with air- adjust suspension.
'69 H/O with skulls motif all over it.
Red truck that spewed fire out the tailpipes.

Later, at the usual hot rod hangout, admittedly rather late [after 10pm] 
there was mostly Rice Row and a few G-bodies, one strong sounding GTO came 
thru. No extreme fun street action to be had.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 10:55:27 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: teasing

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 14:25:51 -0500
From: ilo@kwom.com
Subject: Re: work on James Aiello's C heads has begun

mmmmm.... my heads look great.

James (Care-taker of Chris's w-31.... wonder now if I should charge
him for the heated storage of his car.....
p.s. never tease the person who is housing your car....)Aiello
===============
Does that apply to folks keeping an engine for ya?

[I recently teased James that I had "sold" the trans I am holding for him]
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 14:18:42 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <64f-85@comcast.net>
Subject: 1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale

Hi Guys,
    I sold my nice '64 Cutlass and want to liquidate the '64 Cutlass 
project car and all the parts and engines that i have accumulated over 
the years. I considered selling these items seperately on the list and 
on ebay but have decided that I'd rather not go through the trouble. So 
I'd rather sell it as one big lot to an individual that would either 
want to restore the car or resell the parts for a profit. I'm asking 
$1800 for everything and I'm positive that a motivated seller could 
probably double their investment on resale. Here's a list that I threw 
together which is probably incomplete. I have a ton of stuff.  If 
anybody is interested please let me know. I'm located near Atlantic 
City, NJ and you'd have to pick up these items at my residence.

'64 Cutlass Hardtop with some rust on the quarters, floors and other 
usual places. Decent black interior with later bucket seats. Needs a 
complete restoration however many of the parts will work on this car.
1970 350 engine that ran decent. All cylinders blew 200psi except #1 
which was 100psi.
1968 455 marine engine- disassembled, rusty bores, small valve C-heads.
1968 455 Toronado engine, complete, ran when pulled though was noisy. 
Includes custom engine cart.
'64 Cutlass Rust free front fenders
'64 Cutlass Hood with minimal rust on front edge behind molding.
'64 Cutlass dash assembly, complete except has butchered wiring harness.
Set of big valve C-heads in used condition but look decent.
Lunati Bracketmaster cam and lifters that I bought from Reverend Ed off 
the Olds list.
Holley Street Dominator intake for small block Olds.
455 stick flywheel.
Rear sway bars
Set of 4 rally II rims with bolt on caps.
'64 Cutlass bumper cores.
NOS Moog drag link for 64-66 F-85 and other A-bodies w/ 7/8" diameter.
X and W exhaust manifolds
GM CB radio
Delco AM/FM/8-Track radio
Several AM radios for '64, '65 and 'maybe '68 or so.
Numerous trim pieces mostly for 1964 Cutlass.
Headlight doors and tail panel for '64
1964 Deluxe Hubcaps
Numerous turkey tray intake gaskets for big and small Olds V-8's
Complete A/C system for '64 or '65 Cutlass
Several Air Cleaners
Starters, alternators, brackets, etc.
Used headers for '64 to '67 small block Cutlass.
A couple radiators.
Several NOS and used accessory items such as E-Brake indicator lamp for 
'64 and '65 Olds, flare-stat assembly, trunk and hood lights, turn 
signal switch, ignition switch, etc.
I'm sure there is more stuff, I just can't remember it all .

I hope to hear from you,
Gene
64f-85@comcast.net

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4911
*********************************
