
oldsmobile-digest        Monday, June 7 2004        Volume 01 : Number 4912



Re:looking for a '60 Lf Fender & Filler
RE: 1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale
RE: 1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale
RE: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
cancel membership
Re: Interior
Re: Milton Schick 
Convertible top dash bezel
RE: Convertible top dash bezel
Re: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem
RE: Intriguing Day
Re:  teasing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 11:39:16 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Re:looking for a '60 Lf Fender & Filler

Check with Paul McGuill near LA.  He finds/sells Olds parts as Pacific West 
Auto Parts.  Good guy, known him for years.  He is also a '59-'60 nut, as 
is his dad.          818-765-2004.    Tell him I sent you.    Email address 
is          pacwestauto@1stnetusa.com


Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 17:32:31 -0400
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
Subject: RE: 1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale

Where are you located?
Chris 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Gene Gatti
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 2:19 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale

Hi Guys,
    I sold my nice '64 Cutlass and want to liquidate the '64 Cutlass project
car and all the parts and engines that i have accumulated over the years. I
considered selling these items seperately on the list and on ebay but have
decided that I'd rather not go through the trouble. So I'd rather sell it as
one big lot to an individual that would either want to restore the car or
resell the parts for a profit. I'm asking $1800 for everything and I'm
positive that a motivated seller could probably double their investment on
resale. Here's a list that I threw together which is probably incomplete. I
have a ton of stuff.  If anybody is interested please let me know. I'm
located near Atlantic City, NJ and you'd have to pick up these items at my
residence.

'64 Cutlass Hardtop with some rust on the quarters, floors and other usual
places. Decent black interior with later bucket seats. Needs a complete
restoration however many of the parts will work on this car.
1970 350 engine that ran decent. All cylinders blew 200psi except #1 which
was 100psi.
1968 455 marine engine- disassembled, rusty bores, small valve C-heads.
1968 455 Toronado engine, complete, ran when pulled though was noisy. 
Includes custom engine cart.
'64 Cutlass Rust free front fenders
'64 Cutlass Hood with minimal rust on front edge behind molding.
'64 Cutlass dash assembly, complete except has butchered wiring harness.
Set of big valve C-heads in used condition but look decent.
Lunati Bracketmaster cam and lifters that I bought from Reverend Ed off the
Olds list.
Holley Street Dominator intake for small block Olds.
455 stick flywheel.
Rear sway bars
Set of 4 rally II rims with bolt on caps.
'64 Cutlass bumper cores.
NOS Moog drag link for 64-66 F-85 and other A-bodies w/ 7/8" diameter.
X and W exhaust manifolds
GM CB radio
Delco AM/FM/8-Track radio
Several AM radios for '64, '65 and 'maybe '68 or so.
Numerous trim pieces mostly for 1964 Cutlass.
Headlight doors and tail panel for '64
1964 Deluxe Hubcaps
Numerous turkey tray intake gaskets for big and small Olds V-8's Complete
A/C system for '64 or '65 Cutlass Several Air Cleaners Starters,
alternators, brackets, etc.
Used headers for '64 to '67 small block Cutlass.
A couple radiators.
Several NOS and used accessory items such as E-Brake indicator lamp for
'64 and '65 Olds, flare-stat assembly, trunk and hood lights, turn signal
switch, ignition switch, etc.
I'm sure there is more stuff, I just can't remember it all .

I hope to hear from you,
Gene
64f-85@comcast.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 22:28:43 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: 1964 Cutlass and parts collection for sale

At 05:32 PM 6/6/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Where are you located?
>Chris 
........
>>I'm located near Atlantic City, NJ and you'd have to pick up 
>>these items at my residence.

...... what he sed....

BTW, please turn off your receipt-notification.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 16:45:06 -0700
From: "67Oldz" <67@oldsmobile.net>
Subject: RE: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

 No luck anywhere.
Even at pomona swap meet.
I found this which is NOT the one I have and seems to be the one that
grounds...mine is encased in plastic. I have searched...scoured the web with
no luck.
Anyone have any ideas?
Mine: http://216.22.28.163/oldsmobile/junctionbox3.JPG
What I have found:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457445605
Which is DELCO PART NUMBER D-1742
I also cannot find Borg Warner R240 or even a picture to see if its right.
I also cannot find  "Standard-Blue Streak part number is HR-122"




> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Infinite Space 
> Systems, Inc.
> Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 11:28 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall
> 
> That's the horn relay that should be mounted in the center of the left 
> inner fenderwell. Standard-Blue Streak part number is HR-122. Fits 
> Olds from 1960-1967.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 19:48:32 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Junction doo-hicky on firewall

> Anyone have any ideas?
> I also cannot find Borg Warner R240 or even a picture to see if its right.
> I also cannot find  "Standard-Blue Streak part number is HR-122"

Pep-Boys carries Borg Warner. Napa & CarQuest carry Standard. Give them a
try. If you're still stuck, give me yell privately and I can get you one.

Randy
rocket455@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 21:20:18 -0400
From: Tom Insley <tom.insley@forterie.com>
Subject: cancel membership

Please cancel my membership to Oldsmobile Digest.  Thanks


> > oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, June 5 2004       Volume 01 : Number > 4910
> > > > RE: Lock cylinder, or something else?
> RE: Jesser's Classic Keys
> Re: Block Web Breakage?
> Something you don't see every day...or at least I don't...
> Re: work on James Aiello's C heads has begun
> Jesser's Classic Keys
> Re: Jesser's Classic Keys
> #118 of 500...
> 1967 DELMONT 88 Convertible
> Interior
> Re: Block Web Breakage?
> Where's that from?
> Re: Block Web Breakage?
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 17:00:54 +0000
> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RE: Lock cylinder, or something else?
> > >>("It's a floor wax _and_ a dessert topping!" Grand prize to whoever c> an
> >>remember where _that_ came from... :-)
> >
> >IT WAS A SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE SKIT. It was one of their own "commercial> s"!
> >
> >What do I win?
> > A can of New Shimmer, of course.  :-)
> > A slightly squint-inducing web page of the script for that commercial c> an be 
> found here:
> > http://www.geocities.com/ladolcegilda/shimmer.html
> > (Okay, back to Olds topics now, I promise!)
> > - -- Andy
> > _________________________________________________________________
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®>  
> Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 09:59:47 -0700
> From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
> Subject: RE: Jesser's Classic Keys
> > Thanks for all the suggestions about re-keying, but I've already looked>  
> into it and came up blank. A good friend at work was a locksmith during>  
> college and helped with the door lock cylinders, but he was unable to d> o 
> anything with the console lock cylinder. 
> > Coding the cylinder is not the problem. The issue is that the cover bez> el 
> on the console cylinder is much smaller than the standard door or trunk>  
> cylinder bezel, and apparently these small bezels are not a common item> , 
> so the local locksmith won't be able to help me. I asked specifically, > and 
> Jesser's said it would not be an issue for them, so apparently he has t> he 
> proper bezel in stock.
> > If I am mistaken about the availability of the small diameter bezel 
> for this cylinder, please contact me with information on where I can lo> cate 
> one (or two) and I can have my locksmith friend re-code the cylinder fo> r me.
> > Kenneth
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
> Phoenix, AZ
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 11:25:11 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?
> > > Milton, you said you could prevent the dreaded block breakage problem>  in
> the BBO.
> >
> > You said its all in the crank!
> >
> > Please elaborate?
> > > 1) Use only a forged steel crank in a 455. No not even use the nodular > iron
> crank.
> > 2) Use the lightest weight custom designed and made forged pistons you > can
> find and switch to a much lighter 0.927" diameter floating piston pin.
> > 3) If Ron Fama is successful with his negotiations with the original ow> ner
> of CrankShaft Company and gets center counterweights added to his crank> ,
> then have the 2 additional center counterweights added to the forged st> eel
> crank. That will make the crank incredibly strong and extremely resista> nt to
> flexing.
> > 4) Limit the RPMs to 7000 and cam the engine and do the head work
> accordingly.
> > The only reason an Olds 455 can pull the #3 main wed is that at very hi> gh
> RPM, over 7000, the owner used the nodular iron crank. The crank will f> lex
> in the center and beat out the #3 main bearing. If enough extreme force>  is
> present, the #3 main web could be cracked. Only a forged steel crank wi> ll
> prevent this disaster. That's why Olds used a forged steel crank in the
> stationary industrial 455 engines and the 455 marine engine. Those engi> nes
> were likely to see much more extreme stress on the crank than a passeng> er
> car engine. The standard forged steel 455 Olds crank worked perfectly i> n the
> all aluminum CRO-SAL 455 CAN-AM engines, with their intercooled twin
> turbo-chargers, while eating big block Chevies at 7500 RPM.
> > My forged steel crank in Thunder came from one of those engines. I then>  had
> CrankShaft Company add their Dyna-Rev option with the 2 additional cent> er
> counterweights. That was in 1974. I wiped out my #3 main bearing and sp> un #2
> and #4 by revving my previous nodular iron crank to 7500 every time and>  8300
> once. That didn't work. The forged steel crank fixed it.
> > There is no inherent reason to use a main girdle on a 455, if the crank
> issue is addressed properly. With the right crank, the 2 bolt mains and>  the
> interlaced design on the main webbing will hold everything in place. Th> e
> CRO-SAL aluminum 455s were 2 bolt mains.
> > Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 13:16:05 -0500
> From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey77@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Something you don't see every day...or at least I don't...
> > Hi All,
> >   I was just browsing around the web today and saw this.  I thought som> e of
> you might get a kick out of it.  For a mere $32.5K it could be yours...
> > John Ramsey
> '69 Cutlass 'S'
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 14:25:51 -0500
> From: ilo@kwom.com
> Subject: Re: work on James Aiello's C heads has begun
> > mmmmm.... my heads look great. 
> > James (Care-taker of Chris's w-31.... wonder now if I should charge 
> him for the heated storage of his car.....
> p.s. never tease the person who is housing your car....)Aiello
> > > > Since James is asleep at the wheel, I figured I would send the link of
> the pics to the list so all can enjoy with James.  I'm sure he'll be
> shocked and surprised to see these.  Enjoy!!!
>  
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/148730174GnOEvZ
>  
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/148730739cNQwLh
>  
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/148731295fAEcdU
>  
> http://community.webshots.com/photo/143689412/148731681OqOjCR
>  
> Chris (who's only interest in these heads is the fact he's James
> 'chauffeur' to drive him down and pick them up when his engine is done
> because James' truck is out of commission) Smetana
>  
> grp442@yahoo.com
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 17:28:21 -0500
> From: bcroe@juno.com
> Subject: Jesser's Classic Keys
> > I never tried doing anything with internal locks.  I believe they have 
> fewer "tumblers" .  Bruce (never locks the glove box) Roe
> > 4 Jun 2004  "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com> writes:
> > A good friend at work was a locksmith during college and helped 
> > with the door lock cylinders, but he was unable to do 
> > anything with the console lock cylinder. 
> > > The issue is that the cover bezel on the console cylinder is much 
> > smaller than the standard door or trunk cylinder bezel
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 17:51:16 -0700
> From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
> Subject: Re: Jesser's Classic Keys
> > Intriguing idea, but I think I'd have a hard time with it with 1 Olds, > 1 
> Ford, and 1 BMW.
> > M
> > At 08:22 AM 6/4/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >  I have been able to buy unassembled cylinder kits from some
> >  locksmiths quite cheaply.  Put them together myself.  They are
> >  hard to use over.  A couple decades ago, I got enough to re do
> >  most of my cars.  5 cars here, and I only need one set of keys.
> >  It certainly simplified things with several drivers; no worrying
> >  about switching around keys.     Bruce Roe
> > Mark Mullins
> Tucson, Az
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 22:35:49 -0500
> From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
> Subject: #118 of 500...
> > Hello list-
> > Yesterday my Mom took delivery of a Final 500 Alero!  Drove it right of> f the 
> showroom floor even. Beeyooteeful car, though I thought that 170hp woul> d 
> push 3000lbs better than it did.  When it's idling it had a kind of gro> wl 
> that a 455 might be proud of. There are some interior flaws; the vents > are 
> "soft" and hard to maneuver and the rear defroster grounds are exposed > and 
> ugly as heck...other than that, it seems to be well engeneered.
> > A second note, if anyone needs service in Wisconsin, Ironside Olds in 
> Wisconsin Rapids is the place to go.  One of the salesmen has a '70 442>  
> W-30, another has a Final 500 Aurora, and in the body shop across the w> ay 
> they had an '85 442 with only 52,000 on the ticker!   They say they sol> d 
> regularly 200% of the # of cars a dealership of thier size was expected>  to 
> sell in a year.   Great guys and a great dealership.
> > > On digest mode
> Scott White
> 93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
> 86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
> 70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
> 55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)
> > _________________________________________________________________
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®>  
> Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 01:54:55 EDT
> From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
> Subject: 1967 DELMONT 88 Convertible
> > - -------------------------------1086414895
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> > Hey List,
> > by any chance is anyone interested in a 1967 Delmont 88 convert   98% r> ust 
> free  Floors are solid,  trunk floor is solid   cowl is solid all orig >  425 2bbl 
>    Car has been garaged all its life     Second owner.  Red,   white to> p  red 
> gut.
> > Newer paint    not show   but better than driver quality.
> > Top  needs  fixing  under the rear glass. 
> > Some minor dings.
> > Bumpers are nice
> > > > Vinny
> 68  H/O
> > - -------------------------------1086414895
> Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> <META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"tex> t/html; cha=
> rset=3DUS-ASCII">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
> <BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR:>  #fffff=
> f">
> <DIV>Hey List,</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>by any chance is anyone interested in a 1967 Delmont 88 convert&nb> sp;&n=
> bsp; 98% rust free&nbsp;&nbsp;Floors are solid,&nbsp; trunk floor is so> lid&n=
> bsp;&nbsp; cowl is solid&nbsp;all orig&nbsp; 425 2bbl&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;>  Car=20=
> has been garaged all its life&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Second owner.&nbs> p; Re=
> d,&nbsp; &nbsp;white top&nbsp; red gut.</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Newer paint&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; not show&nbsp;&nbsp; but better than>  driv=
> er quality.</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Top&nbsp; needs&nbsp; fixing&nbsp; under the rear glass. </DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Some minor dings.</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Bumpers are nice</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Vinny</DIV>
> <DIV>68&nbsp; H/O</DIV></BODY></HTML>
> > - -------------------------------1086414895--
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 08:54:33 -0400
> From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
> Subject: Interior
> > Well all......I have almost got everything I need to redo my Cutty's
> interior! Well most of it anyway...wont be doing the doors this year...> .not
> enough money!
> >  I now have the seat covers,carpet,sound deadener,pillars and have the
> headliner and sail panals ordered(awaiting thier arriveal!). I will be
> taking pics of the process and will post them when done. I am taking he> r to
> the body shop this week...I hope! and have the windshield replaced and > some
> minor work done in that area. Than I'll do the interior. Figured I'd wh> at to
> do the interior till that is done so no damage will come to the new
> interior!
> > I am sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Excited! Been two yrs coming but wi> ll be
> well worth the wait when done! wow...that was alot of W's....LOL
> > I'll be saving my money now so I can replace the front bumper...that wi> ll be
> next yr....dont think the car will ever be a show winner...but thats ok>  with
> me...she is finally mine again and back were she belongs and will be he> re
> forever! I love slipping behind the wheel and cruzzin......wow...what a
> rush...I know you all know how I feel....words just cant explain that
> feeling.....
> > Well better get...have a great weekend all.....
> > Tami
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 08:14:02 -0500
> From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
> Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?
> > This is not me talking Milton butit is something I heard from an olds r> ace
> team.
>   They will only run the nodular cranks. They say they sell every forge> d
> crank they get in.  There claim is that the olds 455 forged crank was m> ade
> from inferior steel and they have seen too many of them fail.
>   I only know this because I mentioned to them that I was looking for a
> forged unit.
> >   That main girdle is mainly for the 403 etc I would imagine but it of
> course works on all the olds blocks. I was thinking it might be good fo> r a
> few extra rpms for us nodular crank guys though.
> > Allen Schwartz
> A&L Enterprises
> mycj@tds.net
> - ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 1:25 PM
> Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?
> > > > > Milton, you said you could prevent the dreaded block breakage probl> em in
> > the BBO.
> > >
> > > You said its all in the crank!
> > >
> > > Please elaborate?
> >
> >
> > 1) Use only a forged steel crank in a 455. No not even use the nodula> r
> iron
> > crank.
> >
> > 2) Use the lightest weight custom designed and made forged pistons yo> u can
> > find and switch to a much lighter 0.927" diameter floating piston pin> .
> >
> > 3) If Ron Fama is successful with his negotiations with the original > owner
> > of CrankShaft Company and gets center counterweights added to his cra> nk,
> > then have the 2 additional center counterweights added to the forged > steel
> > crank. That will make the crank incredibly strong and extremely resis> tant
> to
> > flexing.
> >
> > 4) Limit the RPMs to 7000 and cam the engine and do the head work
> > accordingly.
> >
> > The only reason an Olds 455 can pull the #3 main wed is that at very > high
> > RPM, over 7000, the owner used the nodular iron crank. The crank will>  flex
> > in the center and beat out the #3 main bearing. If enough extreme for> ce is
> > present, the #3 main web could be cracked. Only a forged steel crank > will
> > prevent this disaster. That's why Olds used a forged steel crank in t> he
> > stationary industrial 455 engines and the 455 marine engine. Those en> gines
> > were likely to see much more extreme stress on the crank than a passe> nger
> > car engine. The standard forged steel 455 Olds crank worked perfectly>  in
> the
> > all aluminum CRO-SAL 455 CAN-AM engines, with their intercooled twin
> > turbo-chargers, while eating big block Chevies at 7500 RPM.
> >
> > My forged steel crank in Thunder came from one of those engines. I th> en
> had
> > CrankShaft Company add their Dyna-Rev option with the 2 additional ce> nter
> > counterweights. That was in 1974. I wiped out my #3 main bearing and > spun
> #2
> > and #4 by revving my previous nodular iron crank to 7500 every time a> nd
> 8300
> > once. That didn't work. The forged steel crank fixed it.
> >
> > There is no inherent reason to use a main girdle on a 455, if the cra> nk
> > issue is addressed properly. With the right crank, the 2 bolt mains a> nd
> the
> > interlaced design on the main webbing will hold everything in place. > The
> > CRO-SAL aluminum 455s were 2 bolt mains.
> >
> > Milton Schick
> > 1964 442 Cutlass
> > imp@theriver.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 10:55:45 -0400
> From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Where's that from?
> > ("It's a floor wax _and_ a dessert topping!" Grand prize to whoever can
> remember where _that_ came from... :-)
> > - - -- Andy
> ==============
> Sounds like Gilda Radner on SNL
> > "It's like exercising while you're getting clean... ONLY BETTER!"
> - ----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
> > RocketScience442@hotmail.com
> > Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
> > _________________________________________________________________
> Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN Hotmail Extra Stor> age! 
> http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 10:39:35 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Block Web Breakage?
> > Allen,
> > > > This is not me talking Milton butit is something I heard from an olds>  race
> > team.
> > > I understand. There's also way too many urban legends and old wife's ta> les
> about Olds out there.
> > > >   They will only run the nodular cranks. They say they sell every for> ged
> > crank they get in.  There claim is that the olds 455 forged crank was>  made
> > from inferior steel and they have seen too many of them fail.
> > > Then ask them why ***all*** Olds industrial engines and ***all*** Olds
> marine engines came with forged steel cranks. Anyone on this List who k> nows
> boat dynamics and boat engines ***knows*** that sudden water drag on a > boat
> hull at WOT can and will snap a crankshaft in two, unless that cranksha> ft is
> forged steel. All engines for boats, including the outboards, have forg> ed
> steel cranks.
> > The same applies to the power demands on an industrial engine. Most Old> s
> industrial engines were used as stationary engines for well pumps and
> irrigation. I have some familiarity with the way well pump systems work> , run
> off electrical power. I will assume a well pump run by an internal
> combustion engine will work exactly the same way.
> > The well pump electric motor or internal combustion engine only runs wh> en
> the water pressure in the holding tank drops below a certain level. The
> valve is opened for water flow, for whatever purpose, and the flow is f> ed by
> the pressure built up in the holding tank by the pump. As the pressure > drops
> to a pre-set minimum level, a pressure switch will activate when that
> minimum level is reached, switching on whichever power source runs the > well
> pump. When the well pump is activated, it comes on at full power. For a> n
> internal combustion engine, that means full power at maximum torque RPM> , for
> that is what lifts water from depths as little as 50 feet to as much as>  1000
> feet. Our well in Tucson is at 400 feet, run by a 440 volt 5 HP submerg> ed
> electric motor located at 200 feet down, and it pushes. The internal
> combustion engine must pull from ground level, which is much harder. Th> e
> point is, pulling water at anywhere from 30 to 300+ gallons per minute > from
> whatever depth at a sudden maximum torque RPM is a tremendous shock to > the
> crankshaft. Only a forged steel crank can take that shock.
> > When Olds brought out the 425 engine, they immediately began to market > it to
> the industrial and marine community. They were successful, but when the>  455
> was released, Olds took over the industrial market almost overnight at
> nearly 100%. That was how good the Olds industrial 455 was. That engine>  was
> usually run on propane. The Olds industrial engine was marketed from 19> 68
> into sometime in the early '80s, long after those engine were no longer
> available in cars. The marine market still was influenced by Chevy, and>  to a
> lesser extent by Ford. Olds probably only captured about 1/3 of the mar> ine
> market. (Chevy at 1/2 and Ford at 1/6.)
> > The 455 Olds engine also found its way into many motor homes. 455s slat> ed
> for motor home use also had forged steel cranks, for all of the same re> asons
> listed above and below.
> > Then there is all of the Olds R&D eperimental engines, including the 4 > valve
> Hemi, and the CRO-SAL all aluminum race engines. All of the 455 based
> engines used that exact same forged steel crank, the same forged steel > crank
> that wound up in a very few 2bbl 455s and a very few Toronadoes in earl> y
> 1968. The CRO-SAL race team would pressure 494 and 518 big block Chevy
> drivers coming out of a turn leading to an appropriate straight-a-way a> nd
> accelerate ahead of them, revving to 7500 on the downshift and winding > up to
> 7500 in direct and holding it there. The Chevies couldn't rev higher th> an
> 6800 for a 494 and 6500 for a 518, or risk losing the main bearings. Th> e
> Chevy powered teams had to rely on different final gear ratio to catch > the
> CRO-SALs, but that hurt their final torque mulitiplication and, thus, t> heir
> acceleration capability. The CRO-SAL drivers knew all of this and playe> d
> their engine adavntage to the hilt. Several Chevy herders where tricked>  by
> CRO-SAL drivers into over-revving their 494s or 518s and blowing their
> engines.
> > > >   I only know this because I mentioned to them that I was looking for>  a
> > forged unit.
> > > Does that mean they will sell forged steel 455 cranks for a cheap price> , or
> will they milk the price to get the maximum amount of money for a forge> d
> steel 455 crank, believing the purchaser is a sucker???
> > > >   That main girdle is mainly for the 403 etc I would imagine but it o> f
> > course works on all the olds blocks. I was thinking it might be good > for a
> > few extra rpms for us nodular crank guys though.
> > > I thought there was a main girdle someone made for a 455. I'm positive > there
> is a 455 4-bolt main kit to put on #s 2, 3, and 4 main bearings. I've s> een
> one such kit that uses alloy aluminum main bearing caps for the kit.
> > Thought question = What happens to main bearing clearances at engine
> operating temperatures when one has a cast iron block and aluminum main
> caps?
> > Answer = The main bearing bore on the bottom side, next to the alumin> um cap,
> distorts and goes egg shaped, decreasing the clearance on the bottom of>  the
> crank main journal, at the most dangerous spot that could be! Why? Beca> use
> aluminum expands much more than cast iron. Much more.
> > Also, for anyone buying a main girdle kit, make sure the manufacturer m> ade
> it out of steel, ***not*** aluminum, for exactly the same reason.
> Differential metal expansion at the wrong time in the wrong place can
> quickly ruin you.
> > For using a nodular iron crank, when there is no other choice, grind > the
> crank undersize with extra radius allowed in the main and rod journal
> fillets. 0.010" undersize is usually enough. That will decrease the fil> let
> angle and make the crank stronger. Cross-drill the mains to get plenty > of
> oil while using full grooved main bearings. Use the lightest custom des> igned
> forged piston you can find to take all unneeded reciprocating weight of> f of
> the crank. That includes using a lighter weight, but strong enough, pis> ton
> pin. Then, build the engine for maximum power at 5700 with a 6000 rev l> imit.
> That combination with a nodular iron crank should last forever. If you > want
> to rev higher, you will need a forged steel crank. There's no other rel> iable
> way around it.
> > Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> > ------------------------------
> > End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4910
> *********************************
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 05:13:37 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Interior

Tami,
I hope hope you have fun with her. You're right! there are no words to
describe the feeling of being behind the wheel of a Cutlass. I took mine to
town yesterday to visit the local car crowd, and my brake line
burst.......oh well.....I limped her home and put her up on stands.

Now I have an excuse to do ALL the lines.....Take care and have fun!
Pat Swanton.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>;
<Cutlass442Owners@yahoogroups.com>; "442" <442@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 8:54 AM
Subject: Interior


> Well all......I have almost got everything I need to redo my Cutty's
> interior! Well most of it anyway...wont be doing the doors this
year....not
> enough money!
>
>  I now have the seat covers,carpet,sound deadener,pillars and have the
> headliner and sail panals ordered(awaiting thier arriveal!). I will be
> taking pics of the process and will post them when done. I am taking her
to
> the body shop this week...I hope! and have the windshield replaced and
some
> minor work done in that area. Than I'll do the interior. Figured I'd what
to
> do the interior till that is done so no damage will come to the new
> interior!
>
> I am sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Excited! Been two yrs coming but will
be
> well worth the wait when done! wow...that was alot of W's....LOL
>
> I'll be saving my money now so I can replace the front bumper...that will
be
> next yr....dont think the car will ever be a show winner...but thats ok
with
> me...she is finally mine again and back were she belongs and will be here
> forever! I love slipping behind the wheel and cruzzin......wow...what a
> rush...I know you all know how I feel....words just cant explain that
> feeling.....
>
> Well better get...have a great weekend all.....
>
> Tami
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 05:42:03 -0400
From: "swanny" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Milton Schick 

I'd buy your book Milton!
Pat Swanton.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 3:55 PM
Subject: Milton Schick


> Hello list-
>
> I've been reading the recent discussion on the 455 #3 main cracking issue
> and I have to say that Mr. Schick is one incredibly intelegent fellow.
> Milton, do us and our posterity a favor and write a book, detailing every
> aspect of the Oldsmobile drivetrain.  From the recent posts it would be
> facinating reading.  I'd say we're all fortunate to have Mr. Schick
around.
> Now if I could just get him to come over and look under my hood.... ; )
>
>
> On digest mode
> Scott White
> 93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
> 86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
> 70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
> 55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 09:14:53 -0400
From: "Bob Abrams" <rabrams@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Convertible top dash bezel

I am looking for an original style convertible top switch bezel.  I tried
Year One's which was a thin piece of flat stock, very different from the
original which has a raised edge around the bezel.  Anyone either have one
that they would be willing to sell or know where I can get one?

Thanks,

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 08:27:59 -0500
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@direcway.com>
Subject: RE: Convertible top dash bezel

Bob,

> I am looking for an original style convertible top switch 
> bezel.  I tried Year One's which was a thin piece of flat 
> stock, very different from the original which has a raised 
> edge around the bezel.  Anyone either have one that they 
> would be willing to sell or know where I can get one?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob

Have you tried Fusick's yet?  I bought a bunch of my dash bezels from them.
I don't recall at the moment whether or not I got one for the ragtop switch.
I'll look in the garage shortly, and send you an email letting you know for
sure.

I wasn't able to find the headlight switch bezel being reproduced.

All of this was for my 1970 C/S.

Steve Reed 
'96 9C1 Chevy Caprice 
'70 Cutlass Supreme Ragtop (In Reassembly mode) 
'68 Cutlass Supreme (Seized Engine) 
Austin, TX 
http://www.sreed.0catch.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 14:28:50 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '78 98 Oil Pressure Problem

>While yer at it, have the mechanic hook up a mechanical oil
>pressure gauge to check the pressure with the engine hot. If it's OK, a new
>switch will run something like $12 IIRC. If it's actually low, a new oil
>pump is called for although you can get by with what you've been doing:
>keeping the rpm up while at idle.

I'll second this. Back in the day, we owned a '78 88 for many years from 
new, and they quickly developed a bit of a reputation for eating their 
oil-pressure warning-light switches. Although yours has apparently managed 
to last all this time, it could have now failed. (One failure mode was to 
spring a leak around the seam of the diaphragm, which might also explain 
your minor oil leak on the floor. Take a look at the switch and see if it's 
wet on the outside.)

In any event, the first order of business is to hook up that mechanical 
gauge and verify that you really do have low oil pressure. If so, I would 
vote for a fresh oil pump next; the worst-case scenario is going to be a 
rebuild anyway.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! 
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 14:37:53 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Intriguing Day

>GM needs to learn how to make good-looking interiors again.

Heck, yes. The last good sporty one they did was inside the '73-'77 Cutlass. 
That was a _great_ dash layout, everything angled toward you on two banks of 
controls, some nice indirect floodlighting as well as backlighting (and a 
really ingenious way of lighting the console shift quadrant with a single 
bulb and fibre-optic spotlight), a useful console with a nice little 
roll-top hideaway compartment, with the only glaring omission being lack of 
a tachometer. I solved that by installing a flush-mount digital unit at the 
leading edge of the console catch tray, below the roll-top cover. In the 
next generations of Cutlaii after that, they went all corporate and lost the 
cool cockpit-fighter personality. Sad.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 11:00:54 -0500
From: ilo@kwom.com
Subject: Re:  teasing

Yeah Chris you got me good... revenge is best served cold!

If I charged you then you would charge me... not good.

James

mmmmm.... my heads look great.

James (Care-taker of Chris's w-31.... wonder now if I should charge
him for the heated storage of his car.....
p.s. never tease the person who is housing your car....)Aiello
===============
Does that apply to folks keeping an engine for ya?

[I recently teased James that I had "sold" the trans I am holding for him]
- - ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4912
*********************************
