
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, August 22 2004       Volume 01 : Number 4996



F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403
Olds parts for sale
Re: Synthetic Fluids
Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)
Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)
Re: Synthetic Fluids
Manual brake parts needed
Re: Synthetic Fluids
Re: Synthetic Fluids
Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)
Re: Manual brake parts needed
Re: Synthetic Fluids
RE: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)
Re: Manual brake parts needed
RE: Manual brake parts needed
RE: Manual brake parts needed
RE: Manual brake parts needed
Re: Manual brake parts needed
Re: Manual brake parts needed
B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.
Re: Synthetic Fluids
Re: Synthetic Fluids
Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question
Re: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.
Re: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.
Re: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.
Re: mid-80s 442 rims, value?
RE: Manual brake parts needed
OT: Return Receipts was - RE: Manual brake parts needed

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 22:29:06 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: F/S: 1977 Delta 88 4dr 403

All,

Please contact fishgrip@hotmail.com . . . the owner's name is Neal.

I'm not going to be able to get the car myself, but there's someone near
where I live (specifically in Moorestown, NJ), who's got a 1977 Olds Delta
88 4dr.  VIN code is a K, indicating the 403.

Has 114,000 miles.  I only took a brief glance at it.  Faded light blue
paint, rust beneath the rear window.

Owner says that it runs great mechanically.  Probably very worthwhile for
anyone who has the space for the engine and tranny alone.

He wants $300 for the car.

Just figured I'd pass the info along.


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 21:38:04 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Olds parts for sale

Hello all-

I'll be going to the OCA Nationals in Minneapolis and I was hoping to unload 
these parts without having to wrap them and take them to the UPS store.

70 Cutlass front bumper. Wee bit of rust, excelent core.
70 Cutlass rear bumper (non-cut-out). Couple little dents, no rust. Also 
Excelent core.
71 Cutlass decklid. Not sure if this is from a coupe or sedan. No rust.
70 4bbl Iron stock intake.   Came off running motor years ago.

I don't know what any of it is worth so make me an offer and take  it off my 
hands in Minneapolis.  Contact me privately.

On digest mode
Scott White
93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 22:23:21 -0500
From: "Dan Bodine" <danbodine@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

I changed over to synthetic power steering fluid and had no problem,
actually improved performance in rack. I've also used synthetic oil in newer
vehicles with no problem.  However, when I considered doing it for my 70W31
where I had always used Valvoline Racing Oil I was told not to change.  I
called Valvoline Engineers at Ashland Oil and they told me the same thing
Allen said in his e-mail that for my older car where I always used 20-50 to
stay with it because I might get leaks at the seals because the synthetic
oils have a smaller molecular size and were designed for the newer closer
tolerance engines.  Valvoline also sold synthetic oil so they had nothing to
gain by telling me that.

I admit what I've read on this list about the new Mobil 1 sounds good. I
wonder what their engineers would say. I believe Milton swears by it.

Dan
70 W31 4 Speed
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 00:37:31 -0500
From: Karl Erik Aune <425power@ameritech.net>
Subject: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)

'ello

So... when last I was heard from I sought a rattle-can solution to seal 
up a spot on the body where a bondo patch had cracked open.  McCloskey's 
clear laquer was a response that was appealing due to its apparent 
simplicity - one can, one application, one vote (where applicable). A 
bonus is that if it maintains its clarity, I should be able to see (over 
time) if it is indeed sealing as I want it to.

((bear in mind that I am new at this body work thing))

Sounds easy, got complicated.

Here are some pics of the car and the work area in general;
Sorry folks, yes, I should trim the pictures down some to speed download 
time for those whom are "differently internet-able."
(darn paper wasps!)

http://karlmonster.tripod.com/mission/body.html

A link at the bottom of that 'page' takes you to yet another 'page' with 
images of the "project" areas;

http://karlmonster.tripod.com/mission/body2.html

Learned much in short order. Bondo patch much bigger than I had hoped. 
Unless someone did a really great job matching the OEM color, it can't 
possibly be factory paint. Oh well. Still a decent color.

Bondo was directly on the metal, bondo absorbs moisture, and I can't 
guess how long the crack has been exposed to the elements. Therefore to 
protect the metal, gotta remove the bondo and seal the area. The dent 
itself may lend itself to being more properly corrected before a future 
body filling occurs, but thats also a matter for the future.

As you've seen, it was in the course of addressing this bondo patch that 
I realised that I had a more serious issue on the rear quarter panel. 
Much more serious. The majority of the bondo has been removed, and 
hopefully sealed well enough to ignore while I address the quarter 
panel. Much more sanding to do there, as I have yet to expose all of the 
cancer. I did manage to vaccuum out all the nasty bits that had 
collected down inside the bottom there. I have the fixings for a 
fiberglass resin patch, but not at all certain how to go about applying 
the remedy at the bottom of the quarter panel, esp when it will be 
difficult to access the problem area from the inside. Have to remember 
to prop the trunk open with something that wont accidentally get kicked 
out. Also I should set the trunk spring tension to force the lid open 
(ah the things you can learn from reading the manuals!). Also a 
side-effect of bondo removal is the realization that I need an abrasive 
disk that is somewhere between "coarse" and "polish"....

Anyhow, if anyone has ideas/suggestions/comments/"why the HECK did you 
do THAT?" I'd apreciate the input.
Also, if this turns out to be more bodywork-related than Olds-related 
(hey, it can happen....) then adjust the e-mail address accordingly.

I know. I know. THAT'S not a rusty car! You think that's rust?
heh.

Thanks in advance.

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 23:56:49 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)

Karl:

Before long Mission will look like SOM. And that just sitting in your side 
yard! My advice is to save up and come to CA or AZ and get a 5k big car 
that is in rust free shape and ready to roll. Then use some of the 
stainless trim and other rust free bits off Mission before you send her 
over the rainbow bridge ...

Glad to live where it never snows,

George

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 01:04:28 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

> Allen said in his e-mail that for my older car where I always used 20-50
to
> stay with it because I might get leaks at the seals because the synthetic
> oils have a smaller molecular size and were designed for the newer closer
> tolerance engines.  Valvoline also sold synthetic oil so they had nothing
to
> gain by telling me that.
>
> I admit what I've read on this list about the new Mobil 1 sounds good. I
> wonder what their engineers would say. I believe Milton swears by it.


I don't swear by it, but after a disastrous experience with AMSOIL in a '68
Chevy 327 (1974), the only synthetic I've used in the distant past was
synthetic gear lube in Thunder's 12-bolt with Detroit Locker for the last 20
years. That's worked superbly.

However, I've now been using Mobil 1 10/30 in our '97 Trans Sport for the
past 5000 miles, with an oil and filter change at 4000 miles, and it's
worked nicely (currently 92,000 on the vehicle). Also, I put Mobil 1 10/30
in our '65 F-85 330 (153,000 miles), after my wife overheated the 330 so bad
the rings wouldn't seal. The engine came back and works great. There has
been no increase in engine oil leaks. The lifters do rattle a little more on
start up, but quiet down after a few moments. I think the Mobil 1 cleaned
all the varnish out. I'm going to switch to Mobil 1 15/50 and see what
happens.

For Thunder, I've decided a synthetic may be risky. I'm not going to do it.
She's always used Kendall GT-1 Racing Oil 40wt, but Kendall GT-1 doesn't
exist now in it's original form. They changed it 3-4 years ago, and it
doesn't do what it used to do. I've got enough left for one more oil/filter
change. After that, I'll probably switch to 40wt Shell Rotella, unless
something else comes along that might be better.

The original question by our List member was concerning the use of a
synthetic gear lube in a gear box. I don't see any problem with that at all.
I think it's a good idea. I don't believe the gear box will leak any more
than it leaks now.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 06:25:46 -0400
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
Subject: Manual brake parts needed

 
Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if you
have one and we can work something out.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 07:49:21 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

- -------------------------------1093175361
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 8/22/2004 3:04:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
imp@theriver.com writes:
For Thunder, I've decided a synthetic may be risky. I'm not going to do it.
She's always used Kendall GT-1 Racing Oil 40wt, but Kendall GT-1 doesn't
exist now in it's original form. They changed it 3-4 years ago, and it
doesn't do what it used to do. I've got enough left for one more oil/filter
change. After that, I'll probably switch to 40wt Shell Rotella, unless
something else comes along that might be better
I've been using Mobil One oil in the Cutlass and Delta for years. I usually 
buy whatever is on sale at the time, and have used everything from 5W 50 to 
10W30 (and all those in between) with no ill effects at all. Synthetic oil seems 
to stay cleaner for a longer period of time (usually 6000 miles) and since I 
change oil by color, I let it go til it's dark. I have also been changing my 
oil filter every TWO oil changes (about 12,000 miles). Call me crazy but my cars 
have never run quieter.

- -------------------------------1093175361
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 8/22/2004 3:04:48 AM Central Standard Time, imp@ther=
iver.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>For Thunder, I've decided a synthetic may be r=
isky. I'm not going to do it.<BR>She's always used Kendall GT-1 Racing Oil 4=
0wt, but Kendall GT-1 doesn't<BR>exist now in it's original form. They chang=
ed it 3-4 years ago, and it<BR>doesn't do what it used to do. I've got enoug=
h left for one more oil/filter<BR>change. After that, I'll probably switch t=
o 40wt Shell Rotella, unless<BR>something else comes along that might be bet=
ter</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>I've been using Mobil One oil in the Cutlass and Delta for years. I usu=
ally buy whatever is on sale at the time, and have used everything from 5W 5=
0 to 10W30&nbsp;(and all those in between) with no ill effects at all. Synth=
etic oil seems to stay cleaner for a longer period of time (usually 6000 mil=
es) and since I change oil by color, I let it go til it's dark. I have also=20=
been changing my oil filter every&nbsp;TWO oil changes (about 12,000 miles).=
 Call me crazy but my cars have never run quieter.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1093175361--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:02:08 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

At 01:04 AM 8/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>The original question by our List member was concerning the use 
>of a synthetic gear lube in a gear box. I don't see any problem 
>with that at all. I think it's a good idea. I don't believe the 
>gear box will leak any more than it leaks now.

Besides, front and rear seals are fairly easy to change on a manual trans;
don't even have to disassemble it, just drop it to change the front seal or
drop the driveshaft to get the rear seal out. There's still the shifter
shaft seals and cover gasket. And a gasket between the tranny cases. But
the cover/case gaskets might be sealed better by tightening the bolts
(they're bound to have loosened slightly after all these years). Shifter
shaft seals often weep even new. Muncies have covers with the shifter forks
so removing that cover allows you to change the shaft seals and cover seal.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 09:18:36 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)

The only *correct* way to address those holes is to weld in patch panels.
*Anything* else will come back to haunt you later. Every restorer needs a
125 amp MIG welder... best $400 I ever spent.

Rust can be treated with "converter" chemicals that'll stop it from
spreading. Picklex-20 is a favorite among painters. Fillers are normally
applied over bare metal that's been sanded with 36-40 grit. Covering with
epoxy primer will keep moisture out without further painting.

How to proceed depends on your intentions.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 09:23:58 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed

yr, make, and model
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 6:25 AM
Subject: Manual brake parts needed


> 
> Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
> goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if you
> have one and we can work something out.
> 
> Chris
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 09:01:50 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

The vehicle in question is an 88 ford f450. My new tow vehicle. The 360 in
it is brand new so there is no issue with motor oil. It will get mobil one
like all my vehicle. I'v been using it since it first came out, 6000 mile
oil changes(all highway, I live in cow country) and my motor internals have
always been perfect and clean the few times I have needed to look at them.
I want to switch the manual trans and rear end over to synthetics with pro
line additives which aid in coolingthey are not the "miricle lubrication
aids" but I have seen drastic temp drops whenI have used them in my tow
vehicles which all have trans and rear end temp guages. These are full
floating rear ends so even if I do need to replace seals they are very easy.

Allen Schwartz
Alpine Paving Services, LLC
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids


> > Allen said in his e-mail that for my older car where I always used 20-50
> to
> > stay with it because I might get leaks at the seals because the
synthetic
> > oils have a smaller molecular size and were designed for the newer
closer
> > tolerance engines.  Valvoline also sold synthetic oil so they had
nothing
> to
> > gain by telling me that.
> >
> > I admit what I've read on this list about the new Mobil 1 sounds good. I
> > wonder what their engineers would say. I believe Milton swears by it.
>
>
> I don't swear by it, but after a disastrous experience with AMSOIL in a
'68
> Chevy 327 (1974), the only synthetic I've used in the distant past was
> synthetic gear lube in Thunder's 12-bolt with Detroit Locker for the last
20
> years. That's worked superbly.
>
> However, I've now been using Mobil 1 10/30 in our '97 Trans Sport for the
> past 5000 miles, with an oil and filter change at 4000 miles, and it's
> worked nicely (currently 92,000 on the vehicle). Also, I put Mobil 1 10/30
> in our '65 F-85 330 (153,000 miles), after my wife overheated the 330 so
bad
> the rings wouldn't seal. The engine came back and works great. There has
> been no increase in engine oil leaks. The lifters do rattle a little more
on
> start up, but quiet down after a few moments. I think the Mobil 1 cleaned
> all the varnish out. I'm going to switch to Mobil 1 15/50 and see what
> happens.
>
> For Thunder, I've decided a synthetic may be risky. I'm not going to do
it.
> She's always used Kendall GT-1 Racing Oil 40wt, but Kendall GT-1 doesn't
> exist now in it's original form. They changed it 3-4 years ago, and it
> doesn't do what it used to do. I've got enough left for one more
oil/filter
> change. After that, I'll probably switch to 40wt Shell Rotella, unless
> something else comes along that might be better.
>
> The original question by our List member was concerning the use of a
> synthetic gear lube in a gear box. I don't see any problem with that at
all.
> I think it's a good idea. I don't believe the gear box will leak any more
> than it leaks now.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 07:11:56 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

Thanks for your prompt reply. I'd agree that the geometry could be the
culprit, but I'm also talking about Big oldses with >200k miles each and new
ball joints.

Just to be on topic for a second, the best combination I found with the big
cars is factory rubber bushings, except for the front sway bar, KYB shocks
and an Addco rear sway bar on boxed rear trailing arms. At least on my 66's,
the Cutlass boxed trailing arms that are commercially available work great. 

I tried poly bushings on my Starfire for about 5 years and they were just
too hard for the big car. These aren't really handling machines and rubber
is just more comfortable. Not that 99% of the population will ever notice,
but I just wanted the list to have benefit of my (not inexpensive)
experience. 


Cheers,
cf 


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Infinite Space
Systems, Inc.
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 12:06 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

> Can you explain why bushings, at least on my big cars, seem to 
> eventually wear an egg shaped oblong hole in the A-arm and eventually 
> need tack welding? I've had this on both my big 66 oldses. The tack 
> weld was the recommended fix to stop the clunking in the suspension. 
> It's my cars that seem to eat lower A-arms when I put new lower ball 
> joints in -- a 66 98 convertible and a 66 Starfire...


I'm honestly not sure. I've heard of the problem before. It didn't happen on
my 2 '67 Deltas, one of which I had for only a short time. The long term one
didn't develop the problem. It could be that my suspension mods prevented
it, but again, I'm not sure. I've been told that '65-'70 big car suspension
geometry leaves a lot to be desired, but I don't have any hard evidence of
such. Some people believe '64-'70 A-body suspension systems are wrong, but I
won't agree to that.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 08:44:59 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)

HA,HA,HA, on Georges reply to Karls SOM, Great humor, made my morning! I'm
with George, it's time for the parts bin, t'wod take large amounts of green
to fix that kind of cancer.  Rick
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: Barnacles..... (land yacht cancer)


> Karl:
>
> Before long Mission will look like SOM. And that just sitting in your side
> yard! My advice is to save up and come to CA or AZ and get a 5k big car
> that is in rust free shape and ready to roll. Then use some of the
> stainless trim and other rust free bits off Mission before you send her
> over the rainbow bridge ...
>
> Glad to live where it never snows,
>
> George
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 08:47:58 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed

Chris, have you looked on E-bay.  Rick
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:25 AM
Subject: Manual brake parts needed


>
> Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
> goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if
you
> have one and we can work something out.
>
> Chris
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 11:59:00 -0400
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed

69 442 Conv, Is there a difference between the 68-72 or hard top to conv?

Chris 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of ron fama
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 9:24 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed

yr, make, and model
ron
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 6:25 AM
Subject: Manual brake parts needed


> 
> Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
> goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if
you
> have one and we can work something out.
> 
> Chris
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 11:59:32 -0400
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed

Oh yeah! Just a lot of boosters but no rod. 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Rick & Roxanne
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:48 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed

Chris, have you looked on E-bay.  Rick
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:25 AM
Subject: Manual brake parts needed


>
> Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
> goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if
you
> have one and we can work something out.
>
> Chris
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 16:33:08 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed

At 11:59 AM 8/22/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Oh yeah! Just a lot of boosters but no rod. 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Rick & Roxanne
>Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:48 AM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed
>
>Chris, have you looked on E-bay.  Rick
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:25 AM
>Subject: Manual brake parts needed

Chris: it is VERY bad form to have your posts to any reflector, especially
large ones like this one, set to "Receipt Requested".

PLEASE turn it off and rember to keep it off in the future. There is no
reason to have it turned on other than some business e-mails; and even
that's debatable.

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 12:46:15 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed

1968-1972 should interchange
i will look at parts book later on tonight
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:59 AM
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed


> 69 442 Conv, Is there a difference between the 68-72 or hard top to conv?
> 
> Chris 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of ron fama
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 9:24 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed
> 
> yr, make, and model
> ron
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 6:25 AM
> Subject: Manual brake parts needed
> 
> 
> > 
> > Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
> > goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if
> you
> > have one and we can work something out.
> > 
> > Chris
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:21:01 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed

try mp brakes they use  lots of oem parts in there disc brake conversion kits, they  sell parts
sepertaly
parts book just says 1967-1973 master cyl are the same.
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:59 AM
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed


> 69 442 Conv, Is there a difference between the 68-72 or hard top to conv?
>
> Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of ron fama
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 9:24 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed
>
> yr, make, and model
> ron
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 6:25 AM
> Subject: Manual brake parts needed
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone here have a parts car with manual? If so I need the rod that
> > goes from the master cylinder to the brake peddle. Please let me know if
> you
> > have one and we can work something out.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 14:07:18 -0400
From: travis gummels <travis@gummels.com>
Subject: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.

Hey Folks,

I completed the b body spindle conversion with global west upper control 
arms Friday night.  Took the car down off the jacks, started up, started 
to back out and I could feel grabing and could hear grinding.  So back 
up on the jacks and I find that the caliper is rubbing the inside edge 
of the 14" SSIs that are original to the car (71 Conv).  I want a more 
permanant solution than grinding down the caliper everywhere I see it 
contacting the wheel.  Everything I've read states this should have 
worked with the 14" wheels.  I'm contemplating building a 1/4" thick 
spacer from aluminum (aluminum is about 30bux and machine shop is free, 
I'm a student).  I don't have the money for new wheels and tires 
otherwise thats the route I'd be taking.  What do y'all think about a 
spacer?

Thanks
Travis

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 12:02:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

> I've been using Mobil One oil in the Cutlass and Delta for years. I
usually
> buy whatever is on sale at the time, and have used everything from 5W 50
to
> 10W30 (and all those in between) with no ill effects at all. Synthetic oil
seems
> to stay cleaner for a longer period of time (usually 6000 miles) and since
I
> change oil by color, I let it go til it's dark. I have also been changing
my
> oil filter every TWO oil changes (about 12,000 miles). Call me crazy but
my cars
> have never run quieter.


I'm not questioning the capability of Mobil 1, however, the clearances in
Thunder's 468 were set specifically for 40 weight oil. I don't know what
even 15/50 Mobil 1 will do in her. With 0.0035 mains and 0.0025 rods and
0.008 cold on the cylinder walls (theoretical 0.003 hot at 225F coolant)
with the short and abbreviated piston skirts, I don't think I want to risk
it. The two 1/16 moly compression rings were seated with the 40wt GT-1. I
just don't think I want to experiment on her.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 12:07:58 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Fluids

> I want to switch the manual trans and rear end over to synthetics with pro
> line additives which aid in coolingthey are not the "miricle lubrication
> aids" but I have seen drastic temp drops whenI have used them in my tow
> vehicles which all have trans and rear end temp guages.


I'd do it. It's the best way to go with gear units. The military is having
outstanding success with synthetics in all gear boxes.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 12:11:54 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Poly suspension bushings - - a tech question

> These aren't really handling machines and rubber
> is just more comfortable. Not that 99% of the population will ever notice,
> but I just wanted the list to have benefit of my (not inexpensive)
> experience.


Exactly. That's why OEM uses rubber bushings and they're kept tight. The
customer's ride pleasure comes first, even though more responsive handling
could save his life when everything hits the fan.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 12:20:16 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.

> I'm contemplating building a 1/4" thick
> spacer from aluminum (aluminum is about 30bux and machine shop is free,
> I'm a student).  I don't have the money for new wheels and tires >
otherwise thats the route I'd be taking.  What do y'all think about a
> spacer?


A spacer will be fine. Just make sure you have enough wheel stud length to
make up for the extra 1/4". It's more critical on the rear under
acceleration load, but the front wheel studs do get cornering force. Also
make sure a 1/4" outward spacing doesn't cause the tire to rub the outer
fender lip.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 15:43:01 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.

- -- I'm contemplating building a 1/4" thick spacer from aluminum (aluminum is 
about 30bux and machine shop is free, I'm a student).  I don't have the money 
for new wheels and tires otherwise thats the route I'd be taking.  What do 
y'all think about a spacer? --

Some things I might add to this are:

1) Get the hardest aluminum you can find -- with the torque applied to secure 
the wheels you'll want to insure the aluminum doesn't deform and effectively 
lessen you clamping force that the wheels use to hold 'em in place.

2) Make sure you make the spacer to the width of the face on the hub/rotor 
assembly at a minimum.  The wheel (when it's lug nuts are properly torqued) 
actually "bends" ever so slightly in the center in order to keep that clamping 
load.  If you look at a plain stock steel wheel it's easier to see this, and also 
to see just where the wheel actually contacts the hub/rotor assembly.  Making 
the spacer too narrow will take the ability to clamp down away from the wheel.

3) Check your lug nut torque often -- goes with #1.

4) Try to make the spacer fit the lug studs as tightly as you can.  This will 
insure the spacer doesn't have you thinking there's a wheel out of balance.

In 1997 when I ran the silver 1980 Starfire in SCCA autocross competition I 
used wheel spacers to get the tires away from the inside of the rear wheel well 
- -- the stock wheels (6" wide, I believe) were OK, but the Hoosier 225/35B13 
race tires were wide enough they would hit the inside of the wheel well under 
hard cornering at proper pressure.  After 3 to 4 passes on a course I'd have to 
retorque the wheels, the spacers were your typical speed shop Mr. Gasket 
units I had custom drilled to the exact bolt pattern and after the year was over 
they were showing some pretty good wear patterns!

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 12:58:17 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: B-Body spindle conversion gone awry, need advice.

Just to add my two cents... with the spacer installed the wheel nut needs to be able to grab enough threads to reach as
far down the stud as the width of the stud.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 17:42:12 -0400
From: Joe Vahabzadeh <king_v@mindless.com>
Subject: Re: mid-80s 442 rims, value?

At 06:15 PM 08/20/2004 -0400, Fred wrote:

>> Says they're in great shape, but what're the going rates on these?
>>
>> Judging by the brief description he gave of them, I'd assume they look
>> like the following:
>>
>> http://www.texas442.com/wheels/wl-85-87-442.html
>>
>> except that they've got black inserts instead of gold?
>
>---------------- 
>
>Assuming they are 15 x 7 they probably started life on an '85 Delta 88.    I
>agree with George that $50 per wheel is reasonable if they are in really
>nice shape.

Did any of these come as 15x6 by any chance?  I'd rather have the 7
inchers, but they didn't look that wide on the brief glimpse I got of them
today.

Anyway, he's got 235/75R15 tires on them as well, which leads me to believe
you're right, they came from a big car.  Says he had to put spacers on the
back to prevent rubbing.  Front he can't turn all the way in or out due to
the rubbing issue.

On my 1979 Calais, would 235/60 or 235/65 on the 15 inch rims be trouble free?

Back to the issue at hand . . . would the centercaps be screw on or push on?

Seriously considering them, they're excellent, but there are some minute
flaws.  I never used to be this nitpicky before I got into the old car thing!


	- Joe Vahabzadeh

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 17:49:28 -0400
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed

I'm sorry Steve but the PC I use does not give me the option to change this.
It has been locked down by the network admin staff. I apologize for any
inconvenience this causes. Also Ron thanks for your info!

Chris 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Steve Harrison
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 12:33 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed

At 11:59 AM 8/22/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Oh yeah! Just a lot of boosters but no rod. 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Rick & Roxanne
>Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:48 AM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Manual brake parts needed
>
>Chris, have you looked on E-bay.  Rick
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:25 AM
>Subject: Manual brake parts needed

Chris: it is VERY bad form to have your posts to any reflector, especially
large ones like this one, set to "Receipt Requested".

PLEASE turn it off and rember to keep it off in the future. There is no
reason to have it turned on other than some business e-mails; and even
that's debatable.

Thanks,
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 18:19:24 -0400
From: "David J. Duffner - Trofeoworld.com" <oldslist@trofeoworld.com>
Subject: OT: Return Receipts was - RE: Manual brake parts needed

>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@ca.inter.net>
>>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:25 AM
>>Subject: Manual brake parts needed
>
>Chris: it is VERY bad form to have your posts to any 
>reflector, especially
>large ones like this one, set to "Receipt Requested".
>
>PLEASE turn it off and rember to keep it off in the future. There is no
>reason to have it turned on other than some business e-mails; and even
>that's debatable.
>
>Thanks,
>SteveH
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Chris Urban
>Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 5:49 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: RE: Manual brake parts needed
>
>I'm sorry Steve but the PC I use does not give me the option 
>to change this.
>It has been locked down by the network admin staff. I apologize for any
>inconvenience this causes. Also Ron thanks for your info!
>
>Chris

	More annoyance than inconvenience, there's no way to turn
this option off?  I know some seriously strict admins, but even 
they haven't had a reason to or found a way to change settings in
an e-mail client to make read receipts mandatory...  Delivery
receipts, that I could understand and it doesn't ask us to send
the receipt as that's internal.

	What mail client are you using?  If it's Outlook, there's no
reason why you shouldn't be able to change some Options and uncheck
read receipts as a default.  And check messages when you're composing
them, if you click 'options' under 'view' you'll see where the checkbox
is being filled in and possibly can uncheck it there before sending
List traffic as well.  Give it a shot, it would be appreciated.  

	If you can't, send me your Admin's e-mail offlist and I'll 
formally request them to turn that feature off as an ISP/HSP which
might carry a bit more weight if someone from outside is howling
about it.

	HTH!

    David J. Duffner
    Editor
    TrofeoWorld.com

========================================================
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Gen III/IV and GM E-body Resource! - www.trofeoworld.com
========================================================



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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #4996
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