To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #598


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 7 April 1997        Volume 01 : Number 598

Re: Need help with cruise control
**GAAACK** My apologies!
57 Starfire Convertible
1950 OLDS
Re: 3.73 rear speedo gears
Re: 8.5" rear questions
Re: car info
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
Paint code please
'75 omega
Re: Paint code please
Re[2]: 8.5" rear questions
Re: Paint code please
Re: 8.5" Rear end again
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
Re: (no subject)
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
TCC solenoid
Re: Problems with th200
Re: Paint code please
Re: 8.5" Rear end again
Re: 8.5" Rear end again
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
Running out of gas
thanks
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: Need help with cruise control
Seatbelt chime module
Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers
Re: Running out of gas
[none]
Re: (no subject)
Re: Paint code please
Re: Paint code please
Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: I feel less young...
Bearing Ques.
Re: I feel less young...
Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: TCC solenoid
Re: G-body Exhaust Systems
Re: TCC solenoid
Re: 8.5" Rear end again
Re: I feel less young...
Re: '75 omega
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
W-30 Optioning
8.5" rear end for G-bodies
Dick Miller Racing!
Re: Bearing Ques.
Re: I feel less young...
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: '75 omega
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
Manual transmission drive shaft
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Re: I feel less young...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 14:10:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help with cruise control

At 12:54 AM 4/7/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 7 April 1997        Volume 01 : Number
596 > >(no subject) >Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List) >Re:
Compression Question >Re: heads for sale (update) >Re: Compression Question
>Re: Third party help >Brothers Automotive >Charging Problem.  Bat won't hold
charge >61 third party >69 Hurst Firefrost Paint >Re: Third party help >Re:
Brothers Automotive >Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint >Re: Oldsmobile Parts For
Sale (New List) >W-30 Front Fender Emblem >Re: Where does it go? (long)
>Body Tag numbers on '67 Cutlass >Re: W-30 Front Fender Emblem >455 heads to
swap >Re:  Northern Lights Chapter Web Site >Re: W-30 Front Fender Emblem
>Re: Third party help >Shifter Cable >Re: Third party help >Re: Shifter Cable
>car info >Re: disc brake swap >Re: supplier reputations >Re: supplier
reputations >new olds owner needs advice >1969 Vista Cruiser Glass? >Re:
supplier reputations >Re: new olds owner needs advice >1948 & 1949 Tech
Bulletins For Sale (4/7) >Thanks for suspension info! >Dash chrome >Re: 69
Hurst Firefrost Paint >Need help with cruise control >Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost
Paint >Exhaust >Re: Dash chrome >Re: Dash chrome >69 H/O mirrors >A/C
conversions >
>---------------------------------------------------------------------- >
>From: Steven Karlecke <SDKAR@worldnet.att.net> >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997
03:26:59 -0300 >Subject: (no subject) > >I have a 70 Cutlass with a 350.  I
just switched my distributor from >points to HEI.  The car runs great now,
however, my headlights and >interior lights now flicker.  Can this be caused
by the HEI draining the >alternator too much.  If so, what kind of alternator
do I need 0r should >it be switched to an internal regulator.  Also, how is
this done? > >Thanks, > > >Steve >SDKAR@worldnet.att.net >
>------------------------------ > >From: WMACHINES@aol.com >Date: Sat, 5 Apr
1997 23:42:23 -0400 >Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List) > >In
a message dated 97-04-04 18:37:29 EST, you write: > ><< 71-72 A/C Fan Shroud
(correct ribbed one) mint  $50.00 >> >I want this Jim, save it for me, i will
call you tomorrow about it. > >Thanks in advance  Mark Prince , Heard a rumor
you got your W-30 forsale. > tell me about it > >W MACHINES >
>------------------------------ > >From: WMACHINES@aol.com >Date: Sat, 5 Apr
1997 23:53:06 -0400 >Subject: Re: Compression Question > >In a message dated
97-04-05 11:45:46 EST, you write: > ><< this will give you a good
approximation of where your compression ratio > stands. i have collectied this
data testing various engines (stock and > modified over the years ) i have
some data for 12 & 13 compression engines > related to psi if anyone is
interesed. > > Jeff >  >> >what if the rings are worn Jeff? > >WMACHINES >
>------------------------------ > >From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne
Hillier) >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:11:41 -0400 >Subject: Re: heads for sale
(update) > >OK I went and had a good look at the heads I listed. ª 383821 BB
heads, >casting letter "A". Olds FAQs state that they are 1965 400-425 cid ,
80 cc >chambers, unique 3/8" stud & nut rocker mounting, using a three piece
>rocker pivot assembly.( they look like chevy heads that have screw-in
>studs.) they have a single machined flat surface for each pair of stud
>holes. There is no rockers or pivots, they have mild surface rust from
>moisture(easy clean up) The valves and springs etc. are installed, have to
>be inspected, cleaned and springs tested. No cracks. >In olds FAQs I noticed
that there is no casting ª for 1964 330cid. My >original heads are ª385101 if
any one knows how to update the FAQs. Plus my >rockers are a 5 piece system
with 2 rockers, 2 pivots, and 1 steel stamped >cross piece. If any one knows
where I can get a few of these stamped cross >pieces I would be tickled. I got
3 that are cracked. >I would rather trade! >Scott >64 cutlass F-85 conv. 4spd.
>kozhill@titanlink.com > >------------------------------ > >From: IRONMAN
<jev114@email.psu.edu> >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:09:07 -0400 >Subject: Re:
Compression Question > >At 11:53 PM 4/5/97 -0400, you wrote: >>In a message
dated 97-04-05 11:45:46 EST, you write: >> >><< this will give you a good
approximation of where your compression ratio >> stands. i have collectied
this data testing various engines (stock and >> modified over the years ) i
have some data for 12 & 13 compression engines >> related to psi if anyone is
interesed. >> >> Jeff >>  >> >>what if the rings are worn Jeff? > >if the
rings are gone your delta across the 8 cylinders with be greater >than 10
percent, my assumptions are made on the fact that the >delta....across all 8
cylinders was less than 5 percent. hence one would >know if he had bad rings
by reading the compression test properly.  to >determine if a cylinder has bad
rings squirt a few drops of oil in the >cylinder before taking the compression
test if your reading after putting >oil in is more than 10 percent higher than
without any oil your rings are >probably shot!! >
>------------------------------ > >From: Jeffrey King <jking@iglobal.net>
>Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:41:21 -0400 >Subject: Re: Third party help > >>I
need help. >>My uncle called me tonight and wants me to look up price info and
>production info on an Oldsmoblie That I can't seem to find anything >about.
>>This is the info he gave me on the phone: >>1961 0ldsmobile Cutlass >>V-8
engine and another number that came along... 215(which I don't know >what it
means.) PLEASE tell me anything  applicable to this car and I >will be Happy!
>>THANKS! > >Bill and Lisa... many thanks for your input and response.  I
know >some about the big Olds for those years, but little about the >"Baby
Olds".  I didn't even think the Cutlass name applied in '61. >Maybe he'll join
the list in case his uncle wants any more info. > >Happy Oldsmobiling, > >Jeff
King ('61 Super 88) >- --
>=======================================================================
>Jeffrey W. King (N5PNU)      Internet@work:    jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
>Route 1, Box 290             Internet@home:           jking@iglobal.net
>Krum, TX. 76249              Packet:     N5PNU @ N5AUX.ªDFW.TX.USA.NOAM
>214-956-6031 (work)          214-597-1021 (pager) >817-482-3446 (home)
If none of the above works, shout HEY YOU!
>======================================================================= >
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
>======================================================================= >
>------------------------------ > >From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net> >Date:
Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:41:41 -0400 >Subject: Brothers Automotive > >This is really
being a hot topic! > >Anyhoo, Let me tell you first hand about Brothers
Automotive.  I never >ordered from them before.  I heard they have the best
repro exhaust tips >around, so I ordered some parts from them around the 20th
of March. >Guess who's still waiting for any of the parts?  I called them
last >week, and they said there was a problem with the spoiler, he didn't know
>why it wasn't shipped, and that it should be to me by the 3rd of April >(two
days ago.) > >I have dealt only with Fusick, and Year One in the past, and
I've always >had excellent luck in fast service.  A couple of bucks more now
and >then, but why leave your car on blocks for 3 weeks waiting for a
>specialty part to save 2 bucks?  I'm fortunate to live one day's >delivery
away from Year One, but I hear they deliver fast anyway. >Service with the
sale is equally important. > >My profession lies with the service industry.
The client is paying, and >if you want return business, you attempt to make
them happy.  You may >not everytime, but without trying, you'll never know.
Brothers >Automotive, when I FINALLY get my parts, I will erase you from my
memory >banks. > >------------------------------ > >From: "IT"
<todorovb@cadvision.com> >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 01:20:52 -0400 >Subject:
Charging Problem.  Bat won't hold charge > >I have a major problem with a
charging system in my 81 Delta 88 307.  The >battey won't hold charge.  I
replaced the bat (had warranty) with a new one >(they told me the old one was
bad), but the problem is still there.  Now, I >had the alternator tested today
and they said it was fine.  So, I think the >bad cell in the bat caused
overcharging, which triped the fusable link >between the alternator and
starter.  The book also says if the accesory >lights won't come on and/or the
car won't start, it is the fusable link. >The accesroy lights for the CHARGE
and BATTERY are NOT working. However, I >don't know if this is the problem or
not.  If anyone has any suggestions as >to what it may be or how to test or
whatever, it would be most helpfull. >Thanks. > >P.S. If it is the fusable
link, how difficult is it to repair. > >------------------------------ > >My
1978 98 Regency w/ 403, 4-bbl, AC, power everything and cruise, has a >lunging
problem with the cruise control engaged.  Doesn't matter what >speed, it will
decelerate and accellerate all of the time, making for a >very uncofortable
ride.  I have tried to adjust it per service manual, but >to no avail.  Is
anybody familiar with this problem and know how to fix it?

Oh, yuck. Classic misbehaving cruise module. Assuming you can rule out a
vacuum leak -- I think you can, from your description -- you want to try
swapping out the module itself, mounted on the left fender well under the
hood. Fortunately it's a very quick swap and it should be easy to get a
replacement from the junkyard (they don't vary much from one model to the
next). Be careful not to break the rubber-mounted bolts that are supposed
to act as vibration dampers -- if you get to pick the replacement from the
junkyard yourself, bring its fasteners with you for spares. Only problem
with this junkyard strategy is that it's hard if not impossible to pick a
working example from visual inspection, so be sure it's returnable if it
won't work right.

I did try rebuilding one myself out of desperation one night, but without
a manual I couldn't see where the problem might be. Ended up blasting the
thing with WD-40 and compressed air, reassembling it and hoping for the
best. It was an intermittent problem on the car I was fixing, and I never
did hear whether it ever did, uh, intermit again after that.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 14:20:21 -0300
Subject: **GAAACK** My apologies!

I apologize for blasting half the previous digest out to you all
in the course of replying to the cruise control question; I most
assuredly did not mean to do that.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:47:24 -0300
Subject: 57 Starfire Convertible

Can anyone help me?  I am looking for good pictures of any 57 Starfires,
Conv or not.  It is for my mom, she had one back in 59-60, but sold it
because she was misled.  She would be happy with even a pic of a 88, but
she misses her Starfire.

I would greatly appreciate any pics or links to pics.

Thanks
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307
76 Delta 88 Royale (missed much)

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 15:59:00 -0300
Subject: 1950 OLDS

      Date:  04/07/1997  10:59 am  (Monday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  1950 OLDS

I DELETED THE ADRESS OF THE PERSON WHO KNEW
OF A 1950 OLDS 88 FOR SALE, THE PRICE WAS $700,
COULD YOU PLEASE MAIL ME AND GIVE ME ANY
DETAILS YOU HAVE. THANKS!!!!

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 17:06:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 3.73 rear speedo gears

Matt- just go to any Chevy dealer and order a speedo gear set for an 86-88
MC SS. They are all 2004r's and 3.73 geared.







=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 17:10:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" rear questions

Andy- I don't think that any 84 Cutlass's were 8.5" rears. Better check it
close. Check the trunk lid RPO option label for all the 'G' series codes.
Should read 'G87' for an 8.5" rear.
G80 is posi. GU1is 2.41 (there is no 2.42)
If it don't have the 'G87' is is not an 8.5" rear.




=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:20:09 -0300
Subject: Re: car info

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> Well, you're not the only Olds fan with a Pontiac here.  :-)

Bet he doesn't have your bubble-tint windows.  Eh, defroster-breath?

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:06:18 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

I'm going looking at a 1967 Cutlass "s" ...Where exactly should I look for
problems. I know the rear window area was bad about rusting, but were the
bumpers bad like on the G-bodies?  What else should I look for?...

          Besides the normal behind-the-wheels rust on the fenders,
          you are correct to be looking at the panel behind the rear
          window.  This is a popular rust trouble spot on these cars.
          I'm not aware of a bumper rust problem, although as always,
          it pays to check closely.  The trunk floor is also a good
          place to check, particularly if rust in the rear window area
          has let water into the trunk.

          Good luck.  The car sounds like a great deal.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:28:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

Robert J. Lavey wrote:
>
> I'm a bit reluctant to put speakers *behind* the seat since the seat
> would seem to absorb much of the sound.

Hmmm...  Yes and no.  The mid and high frequencies would be muted by the
seats but the bass shouldn't be effected much.  If you're considering
multiple speakers, put the (big) woofers where ever you can fit them.
Mount the smaller mid-ranges and tweeters in the more conventional
locations.  Keep in mind, it is the upper frequencies that give you the
stereo "image" not the lower frequencies.

I think the stuff I wrote on all this is in the FAQ somewhere.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 17:30:07 -0300
Subject: Paint code please

I need some information real quick if anybody's got it.  What was the Olds
paint code in 1983 for frost beige.  Its really important that I find out.
Any help appreciated...

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: lns9659@LanMinds.Com (Lynn)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:46:13 -0300
Subject: '75 omega

Hi ! I am new to this list. My first car was a '78 cutlass sup. Crashed 10
years ago now I have chance to buy a '75 omega belong to an old lady.
Any suggessions and things to look for ? engine size ? v6 or v8 ?
thanks

Lynn

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:46:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint code please

From: Michael Baugher on 04/07/97 02:46 PM

     If anyone knows off hand what the paint code is for
     1969 white Cutlass, I would appreciate it.

     Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 08:56:48 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 8.5" rear questions

     I think Frank is right.  Besides, that sounds like an awful high price
     to me even if it is genuine.  I was just browsing the GN/T-type
     mailing list archive from last month (if you need the web address to
     download a copy yourself, just e-mail me and ask), and I saw two
     complete 8.5" 3.42:1 rear ends complete with posi for $400 each, no
     core charge.  One only had 5k miles on it.

     Now that I think about it, since there is no 2.42 ratio, perhaps he
     meant 3.42?  I've heard rumors that the 8.5" rear also came on wagons,
     and maybe even Cutlass's, if they were ordered with the towing
     package.  Anyone know the RPO code for the towing package that'd make
     it easy to check for on the trunk sticker?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: 8.5" rear questions Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/7/97 11:36 AM


Andy- I don't think that any 84 Cutlass's were 8.5" rears. Better check it
close. Check the trunk lid RPO option label for all the 'G' series codes.
Should read 'G87' for an 8.5" rear.
G80 is posi. GU1is 2.41 (there is no 2.42)
If it don't have the 'G87' is is not an 8.5" rear.


------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:21:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint code please

On Mon, 7 Apr 1997 Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>      If anyone knows off hand what the paint code is for
>      1969 white Cutlass, I would appreciate it.

Cameo White: Sales code "C", color code "50", DuPont ª 5033L

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:01:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" Rear end again

Andy Geeting wrote:
>
<snip>

> said it was off an '84 Cutlass with about 56,000 miles on it. He said it was
> an open rear end with the 2.42 highway gears. Is this right? I thought the
> 8.5" rear ends came with a limited slip and 3.73 gears and were only in the
> 442's, GN's, and T-Type Regals. Did these rear ends come with different
gears? >      Also, the guy wanted $325 for the rear end (minus brakes) plus a
$100 > core charge. Does any of this sound right? Thanks for all the help! > >
Andy Geeting Andy,
  My '86 Manual lists a 2.41 rear end which is a 7 1/2" dia.  Open code
is 2AJ, Limited Slip code is 2BJ.  The only 8 1/2" is the 3.73 which
comes in both flavors, codes 2TG Open, and 2TR Limited slip.  I am
pretty sure the 3.73 was only available in the 442, especially since in
the chart under Body Series, it is listed as G Series-442.  Sounds like
the parts man is trying to sell you a bum-steer.

HTH

- ---Matt
'86 442

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:27:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

We had a big discussion about this a couple of months back. In '68 the
factory made provision for only 2 speakers: a 4x10 in the dash and a 6x9
in the parcel shelf or, in convertibles, behind the back seat firing
towards the rear.

The debate centers around how original you want your car to look. To
avoid cutting holes in interior panels your options are pretty limited if
you don't have carpeted lower door panels, which a '68 Cutlass would not
have. It might be possible to mount something under the dash firing
downwards in addition to the 2 factory spots, though I've never tried it.
There is some room there, though. Aside from that there's not much you
can do aside from cutting holes in panels (shudder). '60s cars weren't
designed with multi-speaker stereos in mind, unfortunately.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 17:54:37 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Steven Karlecke wrote:
> my headlights and interior lights now flicker.

Run the distributor hot wire directly to + on your battery.

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club ª25464 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas69 442
OCA ª02115174 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:36:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

The least distructive (to the interior) solution I have seen was a custom
speaker box that was mounted to the back of the rear seat on a hinge. When
the top was up it sat in the boot. When the top was going up or down the box
came foreward on the hinge. And when the top was down the box rested on the
folds of the top. Before I would try this myself I would examine the effects
of the box's weight on the convertable top and how this setup would react to
an emerency stop situation.

Ray
34467x

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 10:56:50 -0300
Subject: TCC solenoid

     The torque converter on my '84 H/O (200-4R) appears to not want to
     unlock easily after the tranny gets warm (like after a 15 minute
     highway drive, it's fine around town).  It lugs in low gear and really
     lurches when it shifts, so I'm almost positive that's what it is.

     Can anyone give any recommendations to the problem?  My guess is that
     it's a sticking TCC lockup solenoid.  I'm due for a tranny fluid
     change this spring.  Should I just try the tranny fluid change first,
     or should I try replacing the TCC lockup solenoid when I change the
     fluid?  How hard is changing the solenoid?  Can you get to it with the
     pan and filter off without removing the valve body or any other tranny
     parts?

     And now for a commentary:  I spent a few minutes on Friday learning
     that E on my gas gauge really means E (first time in about 10 years
     this has happened), and that forgetting to stop by the gas station is
     bad news.  Putted to a stop 2 blocks after the gas station that I had
     intended to pull into but forgot to.  While walking to the station to
     borrow a gas can, what should round the corner but my old
     kermit-the-frog-green '79 Cutlass Supreme Brougham I sold 1 1/2 years
     ago.  Plate matched and everything.  I couldn't see the driver since
     it still had the tinted windows, but I'm glad I didn't 'cause I
     probably would have wanted to hurt them.  My poor baby was in sad
     shape!  Big dent in the trunk, right front fender was a junkyard
     replacement (and a different color), dented front bumper, one missing
     grille, and 2-sizes-too-small whitewalls made it look terrible.  Sigh.
      It's hard to let go of your Olds!

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:07:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Problems with th200

At 12:33 PM 4/7/97 -0300, joshstrub wrote:
>I have a problem with my th200 and was wondering if anyone has had a similar
>experience.  I was in drive and the trans went into what felt like neutral.
>The car didn't stall there and when I steped on the gas the engine reved but
>nothing.  When I rolled to a stop I was able to put into park and the linkage
 >on the outside of the trans seem to be working fine.  I think this must be
a >problem inside the trans and whatever the linkage conects to on the
inside.  I >this some thing I can fix?  I am not real familiar with the
insides of a trans >but am not scared to give it a shot.  I just don't want to
cause more damage.

This is exactly what my TH-200 did in my old Camaro. I took off from a stop
light and the engine revved high but the car barely moved. Turned out that
the tranny needed major repairs and I swapped in a TH-350, for the most part
it is a direct interchange. The tranny had 144,000 miles.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:09:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint code please

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>
> From: Michael Baugher on 04/07/97 02:46 PM
>
>      If anyone knows off hand what the paint code is for
>      1969 white Cutlass, I would appreciate it.
>
>      Thanks


Mike,

Cameo White code 50. for 69's.  I have a 69 H/O.  It is this color
also.  I hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:24:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" Rear end again

On Mon, 7 Apr 1997, Andy Geeting wrote:

> an open rear end with the 2.42 highway gears. Is this right? I thought the
> 8.5" rear ends came with a limited slip and 3.73 gears and were only in the
> 442's, GN's, and T-Type Regals. Did these rear ends come with different
gears?

Andy,
The 8.5" with 3.73 gear only came in the 442's and GN's.  You
could get an 8.5" with smaller gears (up to 3.23 I think) in the Cutlass,
Delta 88 and I think rwd wagons.  I'll go back and check my option codes
and post them again as I don't have that info available right in front of
me.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:26:02 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" Rear end again

At 12:48 PM 4/7/97 -0300, Andy Geeting wrote:
>Hey Everyone,
>
>Well I went looking for an 8.5" rear end for my '87 Cutlass this past
>weekend and found one! I think? See I didn't get to look at it because it
>was at one of those yards where everything is on computer. Anyway, the gut
>said it was off an '84 Cutlass with about 56,000 miles on it. He said it was
>an open rear end with the 2.42 highway gears. Is this right? I thought the
>8.5" rear ends came with a limited slip and 3.73 gears and were only in the
>442's, GN's, and T-Type Regals. Did these rear ends come with different
gears? >     Also, the guy wanted $325 for the rear end (minus brakes) plus a
$100 >core charge. Does any of this sound right? Thanks for all the help!

Wow! WAY too much, at least for me. We will sell complete rear ends with
brakes for ~$100 with no core charge. I don't have an 8.5 rear though. I am
looking for one myself.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:28:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

My '71 Cutlass had one 6x9 in the top well, but by feeling through the
well liner, whola! I found a spot for another 6x9!

I also thought that speakers firing backwards would be terribly
ineffecient- after installing a pair a Pioneer 4-way 6x9's- I found out I
was way wrong!  With the top up they play so loud that they drown out the
6 1/2's in the lower door panel carpeting.  I guess the area behind the seat
acts as a large speaker box.

Now my problem is getting good sound in FRONT of the driver.  My next
plan is to install a pair of Infinity Kappa 4" speakers together where
the 4x10 sits in the dash.  If anyone has done this- let me know, please.

A good four channel amp fits nicely under the passenger seat.  I used
heavy duty nylon zip ties to anchor the amp to the legs of the seat (no
drilling holes in your precious original floor pan).

Hope that helps!

Greg
gzimmerm@runet.edu

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:39:18 -0300
Subject: Running out of gas

Yes, somedays E means E, or somedays E + a little bit means E, ain't that
fun.  Just ran my '76 98 out a ocuple days ago, but of all the luck she
rolled 2 1/2 blocks and right up to the pumps, no Red lights.  (Good, it
doesn't push that easy, though strangely enopugh my 75 impala doesn't
push that bad, maybe neccessity is the mother of invention.)



CRUISE CONTROL

BTW, when replacing the fender thing for cruise, the 77 and up's look
different, but can be changed without butchering it so that you can't
change it back (though it has to be cutom mounted and wired).

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:44:24 -0300
Subject: thanks

Thanks to Andrew  Green for the info on the pontiacs, it saved me lots of
time that I could use working on my olds.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:48:23 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

alsocheck under the front carpet, the sealant for the windshield dries
out after a few decades and the windshield will leak behind the dash,
under the carpet, rusting the front floors.

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:55:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Need help with cruise control

David, Check for vacuum leaks, you might have to replace the servo if
its leaking internally.
                         Good Luck, Doug '67 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 11:57:48 -0300
Subject: Seatbelt chime module

     Like many other people, my seatbelt warning light and chime is on the
     fritz in my '84 H/O.  I've been told that it's simply the chime in the
     courtesy module that need replacing.  I checked with the dealer and he
     said the part was discontinued on 11/92.

     Can anyone with an '84 chassis manual be so kind as to look up the
     part number for this piece so that I can double check with the dealer
     that it's actually discontinued.  Failing that, anyone have a used
     one, perhaps on a Cutlass parts car that they wish to sell?  Or has
     anyone had any experience in disassembling and repairing these (I'm
     pretty handy with a soldering iron)?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:05:58 -0300
Subject: Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers

In light of certain regional current events, the following occurred to me.

  At some obscure time in the future, I feel certain I shall recieve a
revelation from the lord God. The contents of this vision are likely to
illuminate me as to the true path to salvation. I imagine it shall be
something like this;

  The Lord will command me to create a religious group, The Holy Order of
Rocketeers (THOR). This group will grow closer to spiritual Oneness by
restoring and upgrading our Oldsmobiles. The properly running Oldsmobile is,
of course an analogy of the order and harmony of the universe as it was
originally intended when created by the Lord. We shall take up residence in a
mansion with an incredible number of garages (or perhaps a storage facility
would be a better idea). Being a religious order, we shall of course be a
non-profit organization and owe nothing whatever to Uncle Sam. We shall
support ourselves and our Holy pursuits by hiring out our expertise and also
from the prize money from our Oldsmobiles (it's only a matter of time till
everyone has a machine that runs in the low fours).

On the other hand, this concept would almost neccessarily indicate that there
was some divine inspiration/intervention in the design/production of
Oldsmobiles that would almost certainly affect the upper echelon at
Oldsmobile....

Well, that obviously hasn't happened so I guess I'll fill out my 1040 now.


Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Is it possible to buy stock in Duct Tape?

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:13:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Running out of gas

>Yes, somedays E means E, or somedays E + a little bit means E, ain't that
>fun.  Just ran my '76 98 out a ocuple days ago, but of all the luck she
>rolled 2 1/2 blocks and right up to the pumps, no Red lights.  (Good, it
>doesn't push that easy, though strangely enopugh my 75 impala doesn't
>push that bad, maybe neccessity is the mother of invention.)

On my '65 98, E + a little means empty. My wife found this out while
driving up a 4 mile hill. As she crested the top, the 2 oz. of gas left in
the tank sloshed somewhere else and the engine quit. It was pointed
downhill and took 2 gallons of gas so that it would start!

The way the gas gauge floats around, I don't trust it below 1/8 of a tank!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:28:07 -0300
Subject: [none]

I went to a local olds dealer today looking for pieces for my '89 cutlass
supreme  the two rocker panel moldings that I need total over $300 so much
for new so I was wondering if anyone had seen one in a wrecking yard     I
have the SL option      the moldings I need are about 6" wide
the most critical is the one from the pass door to the RR wheel well
I also need the front insert for the rocker panel on the pass door (it
slides into the rocker panel and has a stud going into the door) but GM
does not sell this individually (typical) and if I buy new moldings I
would have to paint them (I dont think I've ever seen any that were not
metalic grey)

Thanks
      Dustin

My day improved when I went out to a salvage yard and got gauges and a
clock for my '72 Skylark for $20 (I want a tach but the clock will look
much better than the blank plate)

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:33:20 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

OL>Steven Karlecke wrote:
OL>> my headlights and interior lights now flicker.

OL>Run the distributor hot wire directly to + on your battery.

OL>--
OL>John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
OL>North Texas Olds Club ª254       64 Dynamic 88
OL>Dallas, Texas                                69 442
OL>OCA ª021151                                  74 Cutlass Supreme

If you hook the distributor hot wire to the battery you will need some
kind of switch in the wire to shut the motor off.

Daren

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:38:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint code please

In a message dated 97-04-07 15:59:28 EDT, you write:

<< I need some information real quick if anybody's got it.  What was the Olds
 paint code in 1983 for frost beige.  Its really important that I find out.
 Any help appreciated...

 Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling, >>
I looked in my paint code book and the only beige I can find for 83 is
code 39 for Medium Beige and 59 for Cream Beige

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:40:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint code please

In a message dated 97-04-07 17:09:35 EDT, you write:

<<  If anyone knows off hand what the paint code is for
      1969 white Cutlass, I would appreciate it. >>
Yes the code would be code 50 (Cameo White)

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:56:53 -0300
Subject: Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers

How do I join?  Sounds like paradise.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:23:50 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

  Check inside the trunk right around the body mounts towards the front of
the trunk around the wheel well areas -- This is a notorious area for rusting
out on the 66/67 Olds Cutlasses er F85s.  Also check the passenger side front
foot well for rust out -- i don't know why but almost every pre '70 Olds i
have ever looked at had a rust problem in this area also

     Hope that helps some

                                      J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:27:37 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

In the light of rampant aol-chat-type declarations of age/car recently on
this list, which I suppose had to happen sometime.....

Karl Aune, now 28, driving daily an 'ocean mist' 1965 Dynamic 88 425 with A
heads.
I get a kick out of the concept that my car is a scant four years older than
I am.


In other news; I was sailing south on LSD (read as Lake Shore Drive for those
of you who live in regions of lower wind speeds) when I realised that I was
parked.
Yes, my spedometer had died, but as I most likely need only replace the
cable, and the cable goes directly to the driver's front tire, it should be
an easy job.

If future weather permits, I will be installing some of those Accel parts
that Dr. Barry said would not improve performance. I plan on putting in a
super coil and convert to dual points (already using high perf wires). I have
already read the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward, but I
would gladly recive input from anyone with experience in dual points.

Thanks all.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: Blair Rendell <brendell@nfld.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:33:02 -0300
Subject: Bearing Ques.

        Hi there:
    I have a 1971 442 W30 and am rebuilding the rear axle. It's the stock 10
bolt with 3:73? ratio. (with M-22 4sp)
What wheel axle bearing part number would I use for this rearend? Can
someone supply me with a CR brg p/n? Any help greatly accepted. Thanks.
Blair Rendell
Newfoundland, Canada

------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:46:49 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

On Mon, 7 Apr 1997 KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> In the light of rampant aol-chat-type declarations of age/car recently on
> this list, which I suppose had to happen sometime.....
>
> Karl Aune, now 28, driving daily an 'ocean mist' 1965 Dynamic 88 425 with A
> heads.
> I get a kick out of the concept that my car is a scant four years older than
> I am.

Out of my entire fleet of cars (I'd have to count to know how many I
actually have....most run :) I only have two that are younger than me a
'78 blazer and a '89 cutlass supreme, the most vintage is a f*rd '29 model
A truck  45 years older than I  and the only ford I would not trade for a
6-pack

Dustin
'68 wagon
'89 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:46:06 -0300
Subject: Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers

<neat creative writing snipped>

I hate to be a wet blanket, but T.H.O.R. sounds an awful lot like the
Elysian fields of Hall's (ah Camelot!)... and we all know what happened to
them!  :(

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:53:00 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

Hi,
     One area that rusts out a lot is the rear body mount areas behind the
rear wheels.















                                                                        Steve

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:57:38 -0300
Subject: Re: TCC solenoid

Tom,
        That solonoid is the only problem I have seen on the 200-R4 trans. I
work on cadillacs for a living and have seen this many times on the 200's and
my 85 Delta also had this problem. The solonoid is easy to change and is not
expensive. For the money i would to this first.
                                                     Steve

------------------------------

From: "Gilbert Russell" <russellg@dmv.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:51:13 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body Exhaust Systems

NAPA part numbers for the 84 H/O exhaust is as follows:

45211Tail pipe$22.62
45222Tail pipe$22.62
22623Muffler$50.46 ea.   (expensive little buggers)

They didn't have them in stock when I went in but the got them over night
from their main warehouse.  I didn't need to replace the hangers, manifold
pipe or center pipe after the catalytic converter. NAPA did list those
parts also.  Sorry I don't have those numbers.

Gil Russell
84 H/O

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:55:36 -0300
Subject: Re: TCC solenoid

Tom,
        That solonoid is the only problem I have seen on the 200-R4 trans. I
work on cadillacs for a living and have seen this many times on the 200's and
my 85 Delta also had this problem. The solonoid is easy to change and is not
expensive. For the money i would to this first.
                                                     Steve

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:55:53 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" Rear end again

Andy Geeting wrote:
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
> Well I went looking for an 8.5" rear end for my '87 Cutlass this past
> weekend and found one! I think? See I didn't get to look at it because it
> was at one of those yards where everything is on computer. Anyway, the gut
> said it was off an '84 Cutlass with about 56,000 miles on it. He said it was
> an open rear end with the 2.42 highway gears. Is this right? I thought the
> 8.5" rear ends came with a limited slip and 3.73 gears and were only in the
> 442's, GN's, and T-Type Regals. Did these rear ends come with different
gears? >      Also, the guy wanted $325 for the rear end (minus brakes) plus a
$100 > core charge. Does any of this sound right? Thanks for all the help! > >
Andy Geeting > '87 Cutlass Supreme > '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham >
'74 Delta 88 convertible > '78 Caprice wagon > '36 Plymouth coupe

I'm sure that 8.5" rear ends were NOT an option on the regular Cutlasses
, only on the 442/Hurst Olds and the Grand National.  If the 3.73 8.5"
is from an 84 Olds Cutlass, it is either:

1) a salvaged part added to the Cutlass by the previous owner
2) a 3.73 7.5" - I have seen them advertised
3) a Hurst/Olds listed generically as a Cutlass...a tragedy :{

Hope my humble opinion helps.

P.S. The rear end I bought for my Cutlass Calais cost be $250.  More
info at http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/posinote.html

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:52:37 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

On Mon, 7 Apr 1997 KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> Yes, my spedometer had died, but as I most likely need only replace the
> cable, and the cable goes directly to the driver's front tire, it should be
> an easy job.

Discussion on usenet a while back with someone who had the same
problem... cable apparently not easy to find...

> If future weather permits, I will be installing some of those Accel parts
> that Dr. Barry said would not improve performance. I plan on putting in a
> super coil and convert to dual points (already using high perf wires). I
have > already read the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward, but
I > would gladly recive input from anyone with experience in dual points.

Did Olds ever make a dual-point distributor? I have not heard of such a
beast. Again according to the rumor mill they can be hard to set up
(voice of no experience talking). Perhaps an electronic conversion might
be easier?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(Just bought a giant 60-yd roll of duct tape. Made in South Carolina, it
says. Must be a southern thing to have an entire factory there. ;-) )

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 15:59:39 -0300
Subject: Re: '75 omega

Lynn wrote:
>
> Hi ! I am new to this list. My first car was a '78 cutlass sup. Crashed 10
> years ago now I have chance to buy a '75 omega belong to an old lady.
> Any suggessions and things to look for ? engine size ? v6 or v8 ?
> thanks
>
> Lynn

Lynn,

Those are rather good cars.  They are related to the Camaro & Firebird.
I would get a 350 if they were available.  Avoid the 260 V8's.
Remember, they rust just like Camaros.  Look at the floor pans & trunk
very carefully.  The rear windows leak & raise havoc w/the rear quarters
& rear wheel wells.  Of course, all GM cars of that era rust in the
doors, deck lids, & the lower front fender just in front of the door.
Take a refrigerator magnet for checking.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 12:20:35 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

>  Also check the passenger side front
>foot well for rust out -- i don't know why but almost every pre '70 Olds i
>have ever looked at had a rust problem in this area also

In total agreement there.  The cat crawled up through the hole in the
floorboard of my `67 project this afternoon.  Took me a second to figure out
how he got in the car when the doors were closed and the windows rolled up.
Well at least the body's straight.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:06:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

Ray Moriarty wrote:
>
> The least distructive (to the interior) solution I have seen was a custom
> speaker box that was mounted to the back of the rear seat on a hinge.
>
> Ray
> 34467x

I have a '68 442 convertible.  That is an interesting idea.  I may try
something like that.

The rear boot area has 2 places for 6x9's in the rear cross bracing.
That is where I have mine.  I don't want to cut anything.  Of course,
top down performance isn't great.

The front floor vent area on non AC cars can be used to mount speakers
if you don't want cool air on your feet.  Shield the back of the
speakers so that they dont' get trash & moisture on them.  The vent
grills can double as speaker grills.  I haven't done this, but it sounds
logical.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:48:59 -0300
Subject: W-30 Optioning

Has anyone ever heard of a 4 speed non a/c non power steering and of
course non power brake '70 W-30 with power windows?

Danny

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:22:20 -0300
Subject: 8.5" rear end for G-bodies

Andy and  others,

I got this information from my '85 Factory Chassis manual.  My
Haynes manual for 74-87 lists most of these codes also. So I'm pretty sure
that these are the same from the late 70's to late 80's for Cutlass, Delta
88 and Custom Cruiser.

These codes are from the trunk mounted sticker that lists all options on
the vehicle. This is only an 81(?) and newer item.

GH22.29
GM82.56
GT43.73
GUI2.41
GU22.73
GU43.08
GU53.23
GW92.93
G722.14
G80LIMITED SLIP CODE
G878.5" REAR
G897.5" REAR

These codes are supposed to be found on the axle housing itself.

8.5" in the Delta 88
  All these are limited slip codes
2.418NU
2.738NV
2.938NW
3.088NX
3.238NY

  Non Limited slip
3.088LG
3.238LA

8.5" in the Custom cruiser
Non LSLimited Slip
2.738YG8YP
2.938YC8YG
3.088YD8YR
3.238YE8YS


I thought it was possible to get the 8.5" in a Cutlass even if it wasn't a
442 or H/O (I'm probably wrong) but my manual only lists one code for the
442. I didn't write that one down because I figured these are harder to
find than these others I listed.

Also who runs the FAQ??  This looks like good info to have listed
considdering there isn't much in there for G-Bodies.

Hope this helps.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme with 7.5" rear and 2.14 gears

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:19:06 -0300
Subject: Dick Miller Racing!

Could someone with a Dick Miller Racing catalog tell me the
price of the Quad 4 unground camshafts if it lists a price for
them!

thanks
Jeff

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:23:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Bearing Ques.

Blair,
     The easiest way to get the corect wheel bearings is to take the
olds ones to your favorite parts store. The numbers are stamped on the
races.

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:26:39 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

Karl,
     Dual points work, but theres better ignition systems now that are
more powerful and reliable. HEI, and the new solid state point
replacement types.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:21:10 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com wrote:
>
> I'm going looking at a 1967 Cutlass "s" tomorrow, and I would like to
> gather as much info. as possible on what to look for before I go.  The
> car is said to have a bit of surface rust, and, although it runs, it
> could use a few things.  Its got a 455, and the owner wants $500 for
> the car.  It seems to me that this is a pretty good deal (if there's
> no rust holes in the car).  Where exactly should I look for problems.
> I know the rear window area was bad about rusting, but were the
> bumpers bad like on the G-bodies?  What else should I look for?  I'll
> get back to you on what heads etc it has after I go look at it.  I'm
> pretty hard up on cash right now, but maybe he'll take my Mercury in a
> trade... if not, I'll give the info on the car out to the list.
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> Clayton Pierce,

Clayton,

I believe that the rear window is the main one.  Don't forget the trunk
& floor pans, rear quarters, rear wheel arches & inner fenders,
windshield area, & of course, the doors, decklid, & the lower front
fenders in front of the doors.  Mechanically, you probably know what you
are driving here.  Try the car cold to check the transmission & valve
train.  It needs to be hot to check for bad valves & poor starter.

I guess that Mercury is bound to go.  You will trade it or sell it
somehow.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:37:17 -0300
Subject: Re: '75 omega

At 03:59 PM 4/7/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Lynn wrote:
>>
>> Hi ! I am new to this list. My first car was a '78 cutlass sup. Crashed 10
>> years ago now I have chance to buy a '75 omega belong to an old lady.
>> Any suggessions and things to look for ? engine size ? v6 or v8 ?
>> thanks
>>
>> Lynn
>
>Lynn,
>
>Those are rather good cars.  They are related to the Camaro & Firebird.

They are?  I thought the Omega was a corporate twin of the Chevy Nova,
Buick Apollo, and Pontiac Ventura.  I owned a '75 Nova, and while it had
four wheels and it really was a Chevy, there wasn't much else about it that
reminded me of a Camaro.  :)


Some info about the '75 Omega:

The standard engine in both the Omega and the upscale Omega Salon was a 250
CID inline 6.  Optional was either a 260 V-8 with a 2-bbl carb or a 350 V-8
with a 4-bbl.  No V-6 was available.  The standard-equipment transmission
was 3-speed manual, and optional was the Turbo-Hydramatic three speed
automatic.  Body styles available included a coupe, hatchback, and sedan.


Dan



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:44:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

>
> The debate centers around how original you want your car to look. To
> avoid cutting holes in interior panels your options are pretty limited if
> you don't have carpeted lower door panels, which a '68 Cutlass would not
> have. It might be possible to mount something under the dash firing
> downwards in addition to the 2 factory spots, though I've never tried it.
> There is some room there, though. Aside from that there's not much you
> can do aside from cutting holes in panels (shudder). '60s cars weren't
> designed with multi-speaker stereos in mind, unfortunately.

When I had my '63 Galaxie, I wanted to put in a decent stereo and
speakers to replace the stock (broken) am radio and single speaker without
doing any perminant damage.  What I came up with was this--I used a tape
deck with adjustable shafts, so I could make it fit the dash without
cutting anything up (just had to make sure the square part that protrudes
would clear the stock hole, and it did without any problems)..  For
speakers, I just ran some wire to the trunk and put a 12" sub in a sealed
enclosure back there to fire through the seat, and the amp was just stuck
under the front seat.  For front speakers, I had a pair of Olson tweeters
that came in their own little enclosures (so no box/or other barrier
needed to separate the front and rear pressure waves) and just stuck them
under the front seat so they faced my feet.  They were kind of wedgeied
there so they would'nt move.  You would expect a setup like this to sound
pretty lop-sided tward the high and low end of the scale, but it sounded
surprisingly balanced.  I did'nt use a crossover on the 12", so while it
would play really low, it also helped round out the sound in the car with
a lot of midrange.  And when I was ready to sell the car, it all came out
without leaving a trace.  I just put the stock radio back where it came
from, and no one knew the difference.  I did'nt drill or cut *anything*!
Pretty cool.
On a convertable, you could try a similar setup, although if like
moving your seat around a lot, you might try Gregs suggestion of mounting
a speaker(s) under the dash.

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:44:21 -0300
Subject: Manual transmission drive shaft

Hi Gang,

I am trying to find a manual transmission drave shaft (the one-piece model
rather than the rubber-dampened one from auto-trans cars) for my 1968 442.
Has anyone out there got one to sell?  Or can you point me to an interchange
that will work (the salvage yards around here are short on Oldsmobiles but
long on Chevys).

Thanks for any help,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:43:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      Like many other people, my seatbelt warning light and chime is on the
>      fritz in my '84 H/O.  I've been told that it's simply the chime in the
>      courtesy module that need replacing.  I checked with the dealer and he
>      said the part was discontinued on 11/92.
>
>      Can anyone with an '84 chassis manual be so kind as to look up the
>      part number for this piece so that I can double check with the dealer
>      that it's actually discontinued.  Failing that, anyone have a used
>      one, perhaps on a Cutlass parts car that they wish to sell?  Or has
>      anyone had any experience in disassembling and repairing these (I'm
>      pretty handy with a soldering iron)?
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com


Tom, my 85 442 chime module went out on me last year.  I went down to
the Olds dealer and ordered a new one.  About 50 bucks.  I cannot
imagine the 84 and the 85 being any different, but there may be.  I'm
not sure.  If your Olds dealer is worth a salt, he can pull out the
"green book" and look it up, or call it out on the computer.  I just
can't believe that bunk about 11/92.  Unless I'm out to lunch, I think
you can still get this part.  It's located within the convenience center
(which is held on with two screws, on the outside of the steering column
under the dash).  The module itself is kind of like a computerized
flasher.  It plugs into the conveniece center, with a clip on each
side.  Kind of hard to get to, but you can do it if you try.  It is
called an "Audio Alarm Module."  Ask for that, and they should be able
to hook you up.  I believe the part ª for the convenience center itself
is 12034299.

Good luck.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:43:54 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
>
<snip>
 I
> would gladly recive input from anyone with experience in dual points.
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Karl Aune
>


Karl,

I have dual points in my Avanti & 2 Dodges.  Why do you want them when
yuu can just get an HEI from a modern Olds?  Dual points surely worked
when these cars were new, but there is better today.

Dual points wear just as quickly as single points.  The setting of them
increases tune-up time by approximately double.  The cost is more than
double the single points.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª598
********************************
