To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #583


oldsmobile-digest         Saturday, 29 March 1997      Volume 01 : Number 583

Re: Wow, I feel a bit young.
Imballanced Suspension
Re: Supercharger
Re: Looking for parts
Re: Oil Weight
Re: Rare Cars?
Re: bleeding oil line
Re: "Vista Cruiser" script partª
Re: Oil Weight
Re: 61 STARFIRE
Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed
Re: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed
Re: Supercharger
Re: Another point (was: Rare Cars?)
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: Rare Cars?
Re: "Vista Cruiser" script partª
Re: bleeding oil line
What was that intake?
69 Hurst
Re: Wow, I feel a bit young.
horn fuse
Re: Imballanced Suspension (Shock valving) - LONG
Re: horn fuse
Re: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed
Re: What was that intake?
56 olds for sale
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage
Re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice
RE: Rare Cars?
Re: column shifters, (kind of N/O)
Re: What was that intake?
Re: Improving 307 performance on low-budget
Re: Power Steering Problems
Re: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed
1972 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Re: Rare Cars?
Re: What was that intake?
RE: Imballanced Suspension
RE: Supercharger
Re: More Rare Cars
Re: Supercharger
Re: Supercharger
RARE Oldsmobile Reference
Re: Oil Weight
RE: Rare Cars?
Re: Imballanced Suspension
Longevity and Oil

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:15:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Wow, I feel a bit young.

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>
> All the three-in-the tree talk and talk of young people nwho have never
> heard of them  is starting to make me wonder:  Am I the only 20yr old on
> this list or thereabout that likes 70's oldsmobiles.

I'm only 17 and I think all 60's and 70's American metal rocks.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:26:59 -0400
Subject: Imballanced Suspension

Howdy, everybody.

Once, again, I have a question for the group.  I replaced the shocks on
my Cutlass about a year ago with Gabriels (all were same price...for all
I know, they could all be the same).  Did the cars come from the factory
with different 'strength' shock absorbers?  I know that when I take a
large bump, not a jolt, just a large floater, the front end will bounce
one or two times more than the rear.  My car has the V8 in the front and
nothing in the trunk (probably the weight ratio is 60/40).  Are these
cars supposed to have stronger shocks in the front, or is it more a
function of the springs?  Have my front springs gone weak?

Thanks for responding to the seemingly endless questions...

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 18:31:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

Aaron,
     Check out "ProCharger" at http://www.ProCharger.com . They may have
just what your looking for.
John



At 10:56 PM 3/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Ok all, here is a good question for you.  I have a 1972 442, W30, and I
am looking to put a supercharger on it.  One catch. I want an under the
hood supercharger, like the vortech that you can mount on Mustags..  Has
anyone attempted this?  Vortech says they don't offer them for carborated
engines but they tell me that it is possible and some people have
successfully done so.. Anyone have any info for first hand knowledge on
this issue?  I wanted to install this under the hood because I love the
hood scoops and don't want a nasty supercharger sticking out of my hood..
Thanks!
>
>Aaron
>1972, 4-4-2 W30
>
>
>Mark, this is one for you.  Do you know of anyone who has done this.
>
>
>
+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 19:58:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for parts

Dan,
I saw one of the 14x6 wheels today. Call (214)698-8331 and ask for Jason.
There is one sitting next to the 69 he is stripping for parts. Tell him I
said to call.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: scotthensley@juno.com (Scott W Hensley)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 21:55:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Weight

Dan Williams wrote:
>
> Since spring is here, it is time to change the oil on the 442s and get
> them out on the road.  I was just wondering what oil weight everyone
> around here used for their Oldsmobiles.  I've always used 10W40, but I
> seem to remember a lot of people who were 20W50 fans.

10W-40 weight oil; should not be used in any engine. The viscosity spread
is too wide especially under severe service (i.e. heat). I know for a
fact that GM, Briggs & Straton, Tecumseh, and Kohler will NOT honor
their warranty if you use any brand of 10W-40 oil. If these folks
won't stand behind their engines with 10W-40 I would be very hesitant to
use it in any engine. 5W-30 or 20W-50 is okay. You might want to
consider a synthetic based oil.


Scott Hensley

80 Delta 88/455 Rocket

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 15:44:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Rare Cars?

NotDads442@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> <<P.S. I would be willing to bet that excluding fleet cars, that a very
large > percentage of Olds' 1970 production was in fact unique.>> > > In 1970
this was probably true.  After say the late 1980's this just is no > longer
the case. > > You are right when you say "Sort of interesting when numbers
can become > semantics.".  I don't think that there is any question whether or
not the > cars I've spoken about are indeed rare.  We could however waste lots
of time > discussing if they will become valuable.:-)  That's when semantics
would > really come into play.  I believe that my W-41 is valuable and I'm
certain > that Frank believes that his XC Ciera is valuable.  But that only
matters to > us.  I'd bet most of the people on the list would disagree with
this and > that's fine.  We will just have to wait and see what these cars are
worth in > 20-30 years.  If we all live that long ;-). > > Cecil > 1991 W-41

Cecil,

I'll bet that you feel that rare & valuable are not necessarily the same
thing.  A common type rarity is a manual 3-speed 442 or other muscle
car.  Most of us would deduct for that rarity.  Another is involved in
the following story:

I was looking at a 1962 Polara 500 convertible a couple of years ago.
The car was something that I wanted even though it had been sitting long
enough to have the gas tank pick-up rotted away, was terribly dirty
inside & out, & ran poorly from an anti-freeze gas can.

The man wanted $3000 for the car & remarked about how rare it is.  I
replied that even though it is rare, very few people want them.  I went
on that Mustangs are very common, but the demand is so great that the
prices are high.

I offered him $1500, left my number, & went home.  3 weeks later, he
called me & accepted my offer.  I suppose that I may have made the only
real offer that he had.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

PS. I made a pick-up from copper tubing & a filter sock, repaired the
brakes, cleaned for a few days, put the spark plug wires on the correct
spark plugs, & have been showing it since.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:08:04 -0400
Subject: Re: bleeding oil line

Gail Adams wrote:
>
> Why should it be ATF instead of brake fluid?
> Tom Adams

Tom,

Brake fluid is an excellent paint remover & quickly makes painted metal
unprotected.  The worst places for this are seams, & nooks & crannies
that are difficult to get clean & painted again.  Often this happens
long before you discover the problem.

ATF will operate as well as brake fluid & can be cleaned up rather
easily.  It is not so bad to clean out of carpet & upholstery either.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:18:17 -0400
Subject: Re: "Vista Cruiser" script partª

Hi Jim
  I was surprised to see different part numbers but I guess they are. I ran
into this on a 64 Dynamic 88 the fender scripts for each side had the studs
on the back in different places, so thats probably the case here.

Your welcome

Everett

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:17:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Weight

> 10W-40 weight oil; should not be used in any engine. The viscosity spre=
ad
> is too wide especially under severe service (i.e. heat). I know for a
> fact that GM, Briggs & Straton, Tecumseh, and Kohler will NOT honor
> their warranty if you use any brand of 10W-40 oil. If these folks
> won't stand behind their engines with 10W-40 I would be very hesitant t=
o
> use it in any engine. 5W-30 or 20W-50 is okay. You might want to
> consider a synthetic based oil.

Hmmmm.
My '71 GM Owners Manual has a chart like this:
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|                  RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY NUMBER                 |
|                                                                   |
|                        |---- 20W,10W-30,10W-40,20W-40 ----->      |
|               |- 10W,5W-30,10W-30,10W-40-|                        |
| <---- 5W-20, 5W-30 ----|                                          |
|      |        |        |        |        |        |        |      |
|    -20        0       20       40       60       80       100     |
|     Temperature Range Anticipated before next oil change, =B0F.     |
|Note: SAE 5W-20 oils are not recommended for sustained             |
|                                        high speed driving.        |
|      SAE 30 oils may be used at temperatures above 40=B0F.          |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

One word about synthetics - DON'T.
They essentially do nothing better than conventinal oils, when changed
reularly, other than suck the money out of your wallet.  Also, you are
more likely to develop an oil leak on an older engine.

- --=20
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 16:37:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 61 STARFIRE

STLPENS@aol.com wrote:
>
> HI
> I AM RESTORING A 61 STARFIRE AND AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION
> OR PICTURES OF ENGINE AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT.  I AM ALSO
> LOOKING FOR PARTS AND CONTACTS.
> THANK YOU

I have the following pictures that I can scan:

Cross sectional drawing of a 394 Rocket V-8 (front view)
1961 Starfire display engine w/starter, air-cleaner, etc (LF view)

That is it.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 22:36:18 -0400
Subject: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed

Hi All,

I was looking throught my SX trying to find the build sheet, I was
wondering where I might look to find it??  Also I have a buddy who just
aquired a 70 W-31 4/SD and is looking for a ralley dash, gauges &
tic-toc-tac so if any one has any they would like to part with let me
know.

Also anyone have recommendation on electronic ignition coversion for the
70 455 W-32??

Thanks,

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:04:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed

John, an HEI distr from a '76 will fit right in, I'd recommend
installing a MSD coil, and module. It's just a drop in replacement, but
the ª1 position on the distr is different.  Doug

------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:12:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

>At 10:56 PM 3/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>Ok all, here is a good question for you.  I have a 1972 442, W30, and I
>am looking to put a supercharger on it.  One catch. I want an under the
>hood supercharger, like the vortech that you can mount on Mustags..  Has
>anyone attempted this?  Vortech says they don't offer them for carborated
>engines but they tell me that it is possible and some people have
>successfully done so.. Anyone have any info for first hand knowledge on
>this issue?  I wanted to install this under the hood because I love the
>hood scoops and don't want a nasty supercharger sticking out of my hood..
>Thanks!
>>
>>Aaron
>>1972, 4-4-2 W30

Try the Paxton guys.  They used to make carbureted kits for most everything.
I haven't done any supercharged Oldsmobiles, but I have built several
carbureted Paxton 5.0 Mustangs.  They're fairly simple, completely
underhood, and a bunch of fun!  Sorry, don't have their phone or web address
handy.  Good luck!
Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:13:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Another point (was: Rare Cars?)

>This brings up another good point to make.  Just because there were alot of
>one type made, doesn't mean there are alot left.  You may find fewer of the
>standard cars left by virtue of the fact that the "specials" were kept nice
>and clean, and the "regulars" were beat to death, abused, rusted, and
>crushed.  Either that or more kids were driving them, and had the tendancy=
 to
>trash them.  Just because the car had 90,000 of that style made that year,
>doesn't mean there are alot of them left.
>
>Chris Ruper
>
>
Chris,

You make an interesting point, and one that on appearances would seem to be
valid, but after researching the existance of a fair number of cars is not
actually borne out in fact.

The Specials were just as abused as the regulars, save for the very few that
were bought by enthuiasts and remain in their hands.  As time passes the
specials are the ones still sought out, and therefore change hands, and
continue to be used and abused.  The cars that come to light each year from
outside the car hobby are the wind range, with few cheappies and few top
enders; the bulk being the middle of the road, so to speak, models.

I believe that about 5% of the 1932 U.S. car production still exists in the
hands of people that describe themselves as being a part of the car hobby.
One will still pop up from an obscure basement or garage, from time to time,
the final numbers, are I believe fairly well set.

Some models are more 'tinny' than others and rusted away to dust; and others
were fairly well made and will therefore exist in somewhat larger numbers
than a rightful pro-rata share.

One car that I did a small amount of existance study was on the Model A.  It
was made in fairly large numbers, and had a very substantial body; much
better (weathering wise anyway) than any other car of it's class in its day.
By far the most common body style to reach the market today are 2-dr sedans,
the least common is the A400, and there are very, very few deluxe phaetons
too.  But the original production was substantially 2 doors followed by four
doors and then coupes; etc.  They made very few A400's and very few deluxe
phaetons, but the ratio does not seem to bear out anything like a pro-rata
share.  And then again, those two styles are also two of the the sought
after as well.

I believe there are more model As in existance today, than all other makes
combined, from the same years of course.  In 1928 Ch*vrolet began its
asscendency over F*rd, and outsold Ford by a fair margin in those years, and
forever after.  And then add in all the other makers and you make a good
case for the superior body that the Model A F*rd possesses, as the model A
chassis was a step in the wrong direction, as it's brakes were decidedly
inferior, the engine was achronistic, and Timken style rear axles no better.
But they did work fairly well, and gave decent service.

This doesn't seem to be going anywhere fast, but is still probably worth 1.6
mills.  Discounted from the ususal 2=A2.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:16:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.
>
> 64 Cutlass/442
> (1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
> (1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
> Grille Assm     $75.00
> RH Headlight Door    $25.00
> F. Bumper Core    $75.00
> RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
> LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
> Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
> Steering Wheel Center   $10.00
>
> 65 Cutlass/442
> (1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
>
> 66 Cutlass/442
> Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
> 66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
> 66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
> 66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
> 66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
> 66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $20.00
> 66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
> 66 Front Fenders Cutlass/442 (small qtr size hole)  $50.00 ea
>
> 67 Cutlass/442
> 67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
> 67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
> 67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
> 67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
> $20.00 each
> 400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
> Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
> (2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea
>
> 68 Cutlass/442
> 68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
> 68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $25.00
> 68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
> 68-69 Left Quarter Panel (whole thing to roof, no rust w/inner wheelwell)
> $325.00
> 68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
> RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
> Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
> Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
> Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
> (4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set
>
> 69 Cutlass/442
> Headlight Doors   $50.00 pr
> Hood Tongue   $15.00
> Hood Hinges   $20.00 pr
> LH Tail Light    $20.00
> 4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $75.00
> Black Inner Fenders    $80.00 pr
>
> 70 Cutlass/442
> 70-71 Short Wheelwell Moldings  $100.00 set of 4
> 70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
> 70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
> 69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $50.00 pr
> 69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $40.00 pr
> (1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
> (1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
> (1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
> Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
> Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
> Hood Hinges  $20.00 pr
> 442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
> Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
> 455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
> (Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
> 70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
> 70-72 Power Disc Brake Booster w/ master cyl. $75.00 as is
> ($135.00 rebuilt & detailed)
>
> 72 Cutlass/442
> New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  (around radio area)  $20.00
> (4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
> Boxed Lower Control Arms  $60.00 pr
> Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00 ea
>
> Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set
>
> **** New stuff to list****
> 69 442 Grilles (very good)  $180.00 pr
> 67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
> 66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice)  $65.00
> 66-67 Rear Window molding sets. (Mint) $75.00 set
> 66 F-85 RH Taillight lens and bucket (Nice) $25.00
> 66 Cutlass LH Qrt Molding (Nice) $20.00
> 68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
> RH 70-72 Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
> 67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
> 70-71 C/S Short Wheelwell moldings  $100.00 set of 4
> 66-67 SSI (all chrome) 14x6 Wheels (good cond) $150.00 set of 4
> 70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire
> 65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
> 68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
> 12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $550.00
> 71-7? 10 Bolt 2.73:1 Open Rear End  $125.00
> Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
> Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea
> 14x7 SSII Wheel Set (5) (bolt on cap) $200.00 set
> 14x6 SSIII Wheels (newer snap on cap)  $25.00 ea
>
>
> P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming! The reproduction
> of the 70-72 Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicator is in. Looks Great.
> $24.00 ea.  Let us know if your interested.
>
> Jim Chermack
> '70 SX W-32
> '72 442
> Virginia  Beach, VA
> (757) 474-0869
Jim, I am looking for a "front bow" for a 72 Cutlass conv. Can you give
me any help? I am looking for my Dad.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:38:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Rare Cars?

>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama
>
>PS. I made a pick-up from copper tubing & a filter sock, repaired the
>brakes, cleaned for a few days, put the spark plug wires on the correct
>spark plugs, & have been showing it since.
>
>
A meer 30 years are so ago, I was on a trip out west, I think to Columbia,
and on the return saw a 1932 Chevrolet in a yard with a forsale sign in it.
It was not there on the way West.  I stopped, inquired, gave a deposit and
received a conditional bill of sale.

We checked the condition of the car, which was vg orginal.  It had a 30 year
old battery in it then, so we ran it on 12v from my '60 Ply and it ran
fairly well, by dumping fuel into the carb.  I removed the fuel pump from
and battery from my 1930 Ch*v and got my GI 5 gal. can with fueling adapter
and went back the next day to get the car.

I drove it home on the GI can with fueling adapter.  Which is something
everybody that likes old cars should own.  It screws into the filler opening
of the can, and has a reach pipe to the bottom.  There is a ball detent
quick disconnect adapter right in the top.  You hook up your fuel hose to
that, and then put the other end to the inlet side of the fuel pump.

That can has saved me a lot of trouble a lot of times, and it is not
makeshift.  They were designed to make an emergency fuel system for military
vehicles.  A lot easier, and a lot more provessional looking than anything
makeshift.

The only trouble with that car was that the water pump also needed
attention, so it took several gallons of water about each ten miles.
Eventually my brother drove that car all the way thru high school.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:39:03 -0400
Subject: Re: "Vista Cruiser" script partª

At 10:18 PM 3/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Jim
>  I was surprised to see different part numbers but I guess they are. I ran
>into this on a 64 Dynamic 88 the fender scripts for each side had the studs
>on the back in different places, so thats probably the case here.
>
>Your welcome
>
>Everett
>
>
Was that two numbers one for each side, or two numbers one for Vista and one
for Cruiser?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 23:40:39 -0400
Subject: Re: bleeding oil line

At 04:08 PM 3/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Gail Adams wrote:
>>
>> Why should it be ATF instead of brake fluid?
>> Tom Adams
>
>Tom,
>
>Brake fluid is an excellent paint remover & quickly makes painted metal
>unprotected.  The worst places for this are seams, & nooks & crannies
>that are difficult to get clean & painted again.  Often this happens
>long before you discover the problem.
>
>ATF will operate as well as brake fluid & can be cleaned up rather
>easily.  It is not so bad to clean out of carpet & upholstery either.
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama
>
>
>
Any straight mineral oil that equates to about 10 weight should work quite
well.  Brake fluid should work OK too, but is much more expensive and has
several nasty habits, not the least of which is water absorption.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Steve <smickle@ismi.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:08:58 -0400
Subject: What was that intake?

I came across a part that I couldn't identify, maybe someone else can:
it was obviously a small block Olds intake, aluminum, but what confused
me was that it had EGR ports.  Did they do CA intakes this way for the
W31 cars?  Any value to it?

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 00:28:38 -0400
Subject: 69 Hurst

Question about 69 Hurst Olds.  Anyone know where to get an aircleaner,
distributor ª1111973, and exterior H/O emblems.  I need these to
complete my non-air car.  Thanks.

------------------------------

From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:09:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Wow, I feel a bit young.

>>All the three-in-the tree talk and talk of young people nwho have never
>>heard of them  is starting to make me wonder:  Am I the only 20yr old on
>>this list or thereabout that likes 70's oldsmobiles.
>
i'm only 16 and have a '77 442.  i've always loved OLDS.

Chris Kugler

------------------------------

From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:17:14 -0400
Subject: horn fuse

My horn doesn't work in my '77 442 for some reason and i can't figure out
why.  I think i'm missing a fuse for it.  What fuse conects to it?

Thanks
Chris Kugler

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:21:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Imballanced Suspension (Shock valving) - LONG

> Once, again, I have a question for the group.  I replaced the shocks on
> my Cutlass about a year ago with Gabriels (all were same price...for all
> I know, they could all be the same).  Did the cars come from the factory
> with different 'strength' shock absorbers?  I know that when I take a

The front and rear shocks are not interchangeable.  The damping action can
be characterized by compression and rebound rates (N/mm).  Typically, the
rebound action is about twice as stiff as the compression stroke.

In 1934, Cadillac introduced "flat ride".  Prior to this, very little
attention was given to matching the front and rear spring rates.  It was
found that using front springs with a much lower frequency than the rears
eliminated much of the pitching and bouncing that had been normal.

> large bump, not a jolt, just a large floater, the front end will bounce
> one or two times more than the rear.  My car has the V8 in the front and

The lower front spring rates result in lower frequency oscillations
(bouncing).  It is necessary to tailor the shock absorber valving to the
spring rates, which makes one wonder how some aftermarket companies can
offer one model of shock for a wide range of cars, each with different
spring rates and ride characteristics.  The factory setup for your car,
and most full-size B/C/D cars, results in the front suspension "floating"
over larger dips.  Some newer cars (notably small, FWD models) have the
opposite setup, where the rear suspension does most of the work.  These
cars are more prone to pitching, offering a less even ride due to the
frontal weight bias.

> nothing in the trunk (probably the weight ratio is 60/40).  Are these
> cars supposed to have stronger shocks in the front, or is it more a
> function of the springs?  Have my front springs gone weak?

The front to rear weight distribution is probably close to the 55/45 ratio
of the larger B-cars.  Springs primarily control ride height.  It is the
function of shock absorbers, or more appropriately "dampers", to control
the magnitude of their oscillation.  The Gabriels have probably worn out,
or were never very well suited to this car from the beginning.  As a
general rule, you get what you pay for.  Ideally, you should get a set of
Bilsteins ($75? discounted, each), see how they feel, then send them back
for custom valving (~$50) if necessary.  Finding an off-the-shelf shock
that is best suited for your suspension combination is really a hit or
miss affair.

For example, I have Monroe Sensatrac front shocks on two cars: a '77
Fleetwood, and an '83 Delta 88.  The Olds has the towing suspension, so
the front springs have a much higher rate than the Cadillac's.
Predictably, the Cadillac's front end is relatively stable in large dips,
whereas the Olds' bobs up and down twice after large amplitude bumps.

I have recently tried deCarbon front shocks on a couple of cars, and would
recommend them for softly sprung RWD B/C/D cars to improve front end
control, with a minimal sacrafice in ride quality.  The latter actually
improved in comparison to the previous Monroe Gasmatics.  These shock
absorbers are standard equipment on '94-'96 Imp*las.  They incorporate
deflected disc technology to reduce impact harshness over small, sharp
bumps, but at the same time, offer large amplitude control that is far
superior to the Monroes.  The front end now sits just over 1"
higher, a side effect of the high internal gas pressure of this
performance oriented shock.  I paid $60 Cdn, $44 U.S. each (discounted) at
a GM dealer for them.  These probably won't work on a G-car, such as your
Cutlass.  Suspension tuning is a personal matter, as completely
eliminating front-end float with more aggressive damping can affect ride.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 01:20:47 -0400
Subject: Re: horn fuse

Chris Kugler wrote:
>
> My horn doesn't work in my '77 442 for some reason and i can't figure out
> why.  I think i'm missing a fuse for it.  What fuse conects to it?
>
> Thanks
> Chris Kugler
Chris,  it sounds as if your horn contact in the steering wheel doesn't
work, or the horn relay under the hood is bad, or the horn units
themselves are bad (the last isn't very likely since it should have dual
horns.)  The horn uses so much power, that the relay takes the place of
the fuse.  You did not say if you had the sport steering wheel or not,
but if you do, maybe Year One in Tucker, GA could help with replacement
parts.  Have someone you trust in automotive electrical work look at
it.  Good luck.  Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 02:15:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed

At 10:36 PM 3/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I was looking throught my SX trying to find the build sheet, I was
>wondering where I might look to find it??  Also I have a buddy who just
>aquired a 70 W-31 4/SD and is looking for a ralley dash, gauges &
>tic-toc-tac so if any one has any they would like to part with let me
>know.
>
>Also anyone have recommendation on electronic ignition coversion for the
>70 455 W-32??
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Oder
>70 Cutlass SX W-32


John

        First there are many different places a build sheet could be found.
The typical ones are in the doors, under the front or rear seats, above the
gas tank, under the package tray (that's where I found mine.) and I ve enven
found them crammed between the frame and the body of the car. As for an
electronic conversion for the distributor the best for the mi\oney is a
system called the "Ignitor". The sell for about $80.00 and can be hidden
inside the original distributor.

Jim Chermack
70 SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 02:18:09 -0400
Subject: Re: What was that intake?

At 12:08 AM 3/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I came across a part that I couldn't identify, maybe someone else can:
>it was obviously a small block Olds intake, aluminum, but what confused
>me was that it had EGR ports.  Did they do CA intakes this way for the
>W31 cars?  Any value to it?
>


Oldsmobile didn't start using an EGR until I believe around 75. The CA
W-31's DID NOT have an EGR valve. The intake sounds like it's off a late
350/403 or a 307. It's probably worth about $30-40.

Jim Chermack
70 SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 02:35:11 -0400
Subject: 56 olds for sale

All you 56 enthusiasts, there is a  2 door super 88 in the local auto trader.
I think the car is in Ft. Worth. The ad, with a picture, reads: 2 door sedan,
 factory air, ps,pb, no rust, orig. one owner. Orig. seats and door panels.
v8 4bbl. carb. dual exhaust from factory.  $6500 obo. Call after 6 (cst)
(817) 447-6007. The picture from the auto trader is a drivers side, side
view. It looks good in the picture. Go for it!

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

P.S. If anybody is seriously interested, you might talk me into going to look
at it. No kickers please.

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 02:36:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

At 11:16 PM 3/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>>
>>
>> P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming! The reproduction
>> of the 70-72 Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicator is in. Looks Great.
>> $24.00 ea.  Let us know if your interested.
>>
>> Jim Chermack
>> '70 SX W-32
>> '72 442
>> Virginia  Beach, VA
>> (757) 474-0869
>Jim, I am looking for a "front bow" for a 72 Cutlass conv. Can you give
>me any help? I am looking for my Dad.


>Let me see what I can do.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:19:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

I second this great idea and would donate, but then who is taking these
cars?  I can chip in for one but can't get it back to the West Coast.....


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: Keith455@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:18:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice

What I do is, after I come home from the alignment shop. Torque down the
bolts, I believe that if you what something done right do it yourself.. or at
least double check something that someone else does.

Keith

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:31:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Rare Cars?

Bringing to mind the mythical big block, 4 speed, posi station wagons I've
heard of and seen - wow, I think that having the choice of a very large
group of options of all kinds (drivetrain down to colors) beats this cookie
cutter easy-way-to-go all to he*l.

There is a guy in our Station Wagon Assoc. with a '66 Dodge Coronet wagon
with a 440-4 speed, posi - when he went to look at the car he crawled under
it and couldn't believe he'd found a 4 gear wagon.  He's still researching
how many were produced.

My '70 Super Bee broke down number wise to be one of 1979 cars produced
with it's combination of options.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:27:30 -0400
Subject: Re: column shifters, (kind of N/O)

I drove my grandmothers and it was different but easy.  I was upset when my
grandparents got rid of that '58 Plymouth, I thought it was the neatest car
(but not a good one for a 1 car garage!).  I'd have loved to have it, but
they were always broke and I wasn't old enough to voice an opinion when it
got sold.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:36:42 -0400
Subject: Re: What was that intake?

At 01:18 AM 3/29/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>I came across a part that I couldn't identify, maybe someone else can:
>>it was obviously a small block Olds intake, aluminum, but what confused
>>me was that it had EGR ports.  Did they do CA intakes this way for the
>
>Oldsmobile didn't start using an EGR until I believe around 75. The CA
>W-31's DID NOT have an EGR valve. The intake sounds like it's off a late
>350/403 or a 307. It's probably worth about $30-40.

That'd be a 307: small ports, prone to warping and leakage, EGR, not all
that desireable. The 350's and 403's w/EGR all used cast-iron.

Sorry.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:45:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Improving 307 performance on low-budget

At 03:29 PM 3/28/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am a proud owner of a 1981 Delta 88 Brougham.  It is all stock (inc. the
>307) 3-speed, and the only work done on it is BFGoodrich Radial T/As,
[snip]
>without spending a lot of money.  It is also a daily driver, so it can not
>be out of service for too long.  Would adding ACCEL 8.8 mm wires do
>anything? What about their coil, air-cleaner, etc.  Any junk-yard parts
>would do too.

Those Accel parts wouldn't improve your performance whatsoever.

Seriously, the easiest and cheapest way to improve your power is to swap the
307 short-block for a 350 short-block with a mild performance cam. That will
add 100hp to your engine, which would cost a fortune to do with your 307 (if
it could be done at all using bolt-ons, which is doubtful). And yes, you
could drop-in a 350 short-block from the junkyard, and it would probably
cost you no more than $150-$200 (you provide the labor).

The other thing to do would be to upgrade to a 3.23 or 3.42 rear axle ratio,
plus a higher-stall converter (~2200rpm). It's a heavy car, and you'll need
all the help you can get.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:45:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Power Steering Problems

At 03:35 PM 3/28/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Ever since I got 255/60/15 tires in my 1981 Delta 88, I have noticed that
>my steering has stiffened.  That is good, however it still is way
>over-assited.  As this assistance is good for parking-lots, it is a real
>pain on the high-way.  Would adding a different power steering pump (say
>from a camaro) work? Could  I do it? And if possible, it should be a
>junk-yard part. If anyone knows how to fix this problem, I would be glad to
>hear from you.

The steering box from a late-model Monte Carlo SS, plus the pump, would give
you more feel. Also the same from the H/O's and 442's, but they're not as
plentiful in the junkyards.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 03:48:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Build Sheet locations/tic-toc-tac needed

At 09:36 PM 3/28/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I was looking throught my SX trying to find the build sheet, I was

My '70 SX had its sheet in the springs of the back seat (perhaps the front,
but I was sure it was the back).

>Also anyone have recommendation on electronic ignition coversion for the
>70 455 W-32??

Any '75-'79 Olds V-8 HEI; cheap and readily available, plus you can always
get parts for it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 05:35:10 -0400
Subject: 1972 Delta 88 Royale Convertible

I have one of the subject cars and just love it!  Need help finding a real
good driver's side quarter panel and a steering wheel for a tilt/telescopic
column (black in color).  Anybody out there who can help me?  Thanks!

David Betz
dbetz@netwalk.com

1972 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
1978 98 Regency 2-door coupe (daily driver)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 02:52:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Rare Cars?

James Thingwold wrote:
>
> Bringing to mind the mythical big block, 4 speed, posi station wagons I've
> heard of and seen - wow,
>
> There is a guy in our Station Wagon Assoc. with a '66 Dodge Coronet wagon
> with a 440-4 speed, posi - when he went to look at the car he crawled under
> it and couldn't believe he'd found a 4 gear wagon.  He's still researching
> how many were produced.
>
> My '70 Super Bee broke down number wise to be one of 1979 cars produced
> with it's combination of options.
>
> Lisa Madsen

Lisa,

Speaking of rare wagons, I went to see Bill Harrah's collection in Reno
the summer of 1981.  Bill liked high speed/powered cars for his personal
use.  He had a white 1966 Dodge Coronet station wagon; 4-speed hemi.  He
called it his parts hauler.  I heard that it hauled too.

There also was a Jeep Wagoneer converted to 12 cylinder Ferrari power.
the chrome name on the hood sides was "Jerrari".

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Slowmobile@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 11:27:38 -0400
Subject: Re: What was that intake?

If you check the parts manual. I'll bet the manifold is a late 70's/early
80's 350.
They are quite common at swap meets in this area.

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 11:54:37 -0400
Subject: RE: Imballanced Suspension

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC3C2F.9941FF60
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



- -----Original Message-----
From:Jason Adcock [SMTP:adcockjk@erols.com]
Sent:Friday, March 28, 1997 8:27 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Imballanced Suspension

Howdy, everybody.

Once, again, I have a question for the group.  I replaced the shocks on
my Cutlass about a year ago with Gabriels (all were same price...for all
I know, they could all be the same).  Did the cars come from the factory
with different 'strength' shock absorbers?  I know that when I take a
large bump, not a jolt, just a large floater, the front end will bounce
one or two times more than the rear.  My car has the V8 in the front and
nothing in the trunk (probably the weight ratio is 60/40).  Are these
cars supposed to have stronger shocks in the front, or is it more a
function of the springs?  Have my front springs gone weak?

Thanks for responding to the seemingly endless questions...

- --=20

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

[Aaron R. Weimer] =20

Had the same problem my friend.  Front end bouncing around, and =
scraping my 2" hooker supercomps too :<  I couldn't find a stronger =
shock so I installed a set of rubber spring stiffeners.  Solved the =
problem perfectly.  Even gave me another inch of clearence.

Aaron

1972 442, W30
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From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 11:59:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Supercharger

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- -----Original Message-----
From:J2RKT@aol.com [SMTP:J2RKT@aol.com]
Sent:Friday, March 28, 1997 2:44 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: Supercharger

    I have a friend that works for BDS (Blower Drive Service),  and we =
were
discussing how hard it would be to put a Vortech supercharger on various
engines.  According to him BDS can make all the pullies and mounting =
brackets
for the installation of a Vortech supercharger on any engine you can =
think
of, it's just a matter of money and time to do it right.
     Paxton superchargers still makes the carbureter enclosure for =
Holley
carbureters that they used for the carbureted version of thier =
supercharging
system.  You might even be able to find used/rebuilt Paxton systems from
people who restore Avante automobiles --  the prices range usually from =
$800
to $1200, but you would still have to fabricate the mounting bracketts =
for
your application.

                Hope that puts a little light on the subject,



[Aaron R. Weimer] =20
Well ya see.. I talked with a guy of the subject yesterday.  Told me =
about 2800 bux to get it finished!  Gezz way out of line on the price.  =
I was watching the hotrod show a few weeks ago and they installed one on =
a truck.. It only had 5psi, the vortech's start at like 15psi.  I'm not =
looking for a 200hp gain.  It's not necessary.  I'm only looking for a =
100hp gain.  With this 5psi system they installed, it had a very nice =
looking cover that went over the carborator just like an air cleaner.. =
Now this guy tells me on the phone I have to inclose my carborator in a =
BOX!  No way..=20

Aaron

1972 442 W30












                                                                =
J2RKT@aol.com


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------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:29:08 -0400
Subject: Re: More Rare Cars

In a message dated 3/28/97 6:12:18 PM, you wrote:

<<Ie, rarity does not necessarily enhance value.>>

Its true.  I once had a 72 W-30 post (one of 19 made).  Only 19 people
(dealers) ordered this car all year.  Value is not only directly correlated
the scarcity, but desireablity as well.  My 68 H/O (one of about 515)  is
 far more common but worth more as it is more desirable.  Oldoldsguy

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:34:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

.. Now this guy tells me on the phone I have to inclose my carborator in a
BOX!  No way..

If I understand it right on a blow through type turbo if you just
pressurize the venturi area it throws all the carbs calibrated circuts off
because of the pressure difference. When you enclose the carb in a box and
pressurise the whole thing it works right without having to change
anything. Also if the pressure is above ambient in the venturi the seals
around the throtle shafts can leak fuel air mixture to the outside.
The draw through supercharger or turbo charger solves all these problems
because the air isn't pressurised until after if goes through the carb.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 13:02:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

In a message dated 3/29/97 3:24:16 AM, you wrote:

<<>>Aaron
>>1972, 4-4-2 W30>>

Its your car and I support your decision to do what you want with it.  That
said I'm also man enough to tell you that IMHO your a damn fool for molesting
an original (and rare) X car.  Buy a $200 post coupe and go crazy!   I am
disturbed that no one else on the list has attempted to educate you on this
subject.  As a serious Oldsmobile collector, I'm offended by the lack of
response from this



------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:10:19 -0400
Subject: RARE Oldsmobile Reference

Given the seemingly wide age range this list supports, I'm sure most of
you have heard of that Crazy Canadian Character, Mr. NIEL YOUNG.  At any
rate, if you bought his last disk, Mirrorball, and listended to 'I'm the
Ocean', you might hear:

I'm an aerostar, I'm a CUTLASS SUPREME
In the wrong lane, trying to turn against the flow
I'm the ocean, on a giant undertow!

Those of us who have infinite wisdom know he was talking very
specifically a 1975 Olds cutlass suprem 2dr, blue with black vinal top,
although some others may claim he wanted a well known car that rhymed
with the line before it.

At any rate, I thought it was cool the first time I heard it (I'm
surprised I forgot to mention it until now.)

BTW, I also used a 1975 Impala for adaily driver, and loved it (although
a lot of little things just seemed cheaper than an olds of that year).




EA~  1975 Cutlass Supreme, 2dr blue, black vinal top, soon to be online,
and soon to house a 1975 455.

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:14:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Weight

around here, the trend is to up the weight from 10W30 to 15-40 or 20-50,
depending on conditions + motor age (many cars around here break 200 000
miles, so clearance for heavy oil is not in short supply).  My theory is
that clean oil of any/type weight is the best oil, from their I'm a 10-30
man and 15-40 in the summer for my 130 000 mile 350 rocket (20-50 for my
WELL ABUSED 79 Yamaha 400, 20 000 km's).  Enjoy




EA~

On Thu, 27 Mar 1997, Dan Williams wrote:

> Since spring is here, it is time to change the oil on the 442s and get
> them out on the road.  I was just wondering what oil weight everyone
> around here used for their Oldsmobiles.  I've always used 10W40, but I
> seem to remember a lot of people who were 20W50 fans.
>
> -Dan
>

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:42:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Rare Cars?

"Well I disagree...sorta:-) I seriously doubt that the W-41 or the XC
Ciera will become valuable as the likes of the 70 LS6 Chevelle, Daytona
Superbee's, etc. If they do there will be a much more limited market for
them...mostly Olds enthusiasts."

I think the man has a good point about the four cylinder W-cars, and their
like, becoming collector cars.  The point about the V8-type cars(Monte
SS's, GN's, etc.) is also good, but the four-banger cars are
smaller, lighter, and have better gas mileage, yet still have plenty of
performance potential, especially our highly-esteemed
Quad4's.  This, I believe, is what's going to have a heavy influence on
what becomes collectible in the next 15-25 years; especially if gas
prices continue to rise and the Zero Emission Vehicles (eg-electric cars)
continue to progress technologically. (which they shall)
If they become more cost-competitive(and they prob'ly will) and a good
system of "gas stations" and stuff is set up for them, then gas-powered
cars might become more expensive to own and operate.

Also, these smaller-engined cars'll prob'ly be cheaper to insure down
the road, just as they are now, and that might influence what kinda car
people would want to own.


       Jim Townsend

       '90 Calais W40

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:49:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Imballanced Suspension

"Thanks for responding to the seemingly endless questions..."

Hey, don't sweat it; these are all good questions and there's always
someone around who can and will answer them. :)

       Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:00:07 -0400
Subject: Longevity and Oil

Today's Wheels section in the Toronto Star has an article on engine oil.
Aside from the usual advice that frequent oil changes are beneficial,
there were a couple of interesting blurbs:

"The spouse of an acquaintance bought a new F*rd Explorer
sport-utility and drove it without ever lifting the hood to check the oil
level or delivering it to the dealer for scheduled oil changes.
The engine lasted 50,000 kilometres before it self-destructed."  <snip>

"Yet consider the man who drove his 17-year-old Oldsmobile into the
vehicle inspection centre I operated in Vancouver a
few years ago.

The car had more than half a million kilometres on the odometer. But its
engine, which had never been disassembled, was in
better condition than those in some 3-year-old cars we had checked." <snip>

"Remember that Oldsmobile owner in Vancouver? Recently, I read an auto
club article reporting that the same car had
completed 800,000 kilometres and was well on its way to reaching a
million."

- ---> To convert to miles, multiply by 0.621.
     The entire article can be found at:
http://www.thestar.com/thestar/editorial/wheels/970328M01_SN-AUTO-OIL-.html

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª583
********************************
