oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca 
02/12/97 09:29 PM
To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #515


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, 12 February 1997    Volume 01 : Number 515

Re: Patch Panels
WANTED:  455
Re: 67 Delta rear quarter needed..
Re: Leaking Lena Again
Re: Leaking Lena Again
RE: Seat covers and wheel wells
Windshields
Re: 70-72 Big Block Frame Mounts
Re: 70-72 Big Block Frame Mounts
Re: WANTED:  455
Re: Archive Availability
Re: 70-72 Big Block Frame Mounts
65-66 Big Car Suspension
Question on storing a motor
Lena
Re: Leaking Lena Again
GM Performance Catalogue
Re[2]: Olds in latest Car Craft
Dash Problems
Re: Lena
Re: Re[2]: Olds in latest Car Craft
Replacement Muffler
Re: 65-66 Big Car Suspension
Re: Patch Panels
Re:Re: Switch to discs
Re: Seat covers and wheel wells
Neat sight and other stuff...
Re: WANTED:  455
Re: Seat covers and wheel wells
Re: 68 Sport Steering Wheel
L.I. & N.Y.C. Olds Club Members!!!!!!!!!!!
Unsubscribe
Re: Ouch goes the Rockit :(
Re: Replacement Muffler
Re: The Meaning of 442
Re: Neat sight and other stuff...
Re: WANTED 455
1967_442_Convertible
Re: GM Performance Catalogue
front grilles for 85 Cutlass (I promised)
Speed Bleeders
Re: WANTED  455
Re: front grilles for 85 Cutlass (I promised)
Re: GM Performance Catalogue
stalling upon burnouts
Re: 68 Sport Steering Wheel
Re: GM Performance Catalogue
Re: 68 Sport Steering Wheel
Re: Question on storing a motor
Re: stalling upon burnouts
Re: Replacement Muffler
Re: Question on storing a motor
Old olds adds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dawn Roode <dawnr@curtco.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:01:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Patch Panels

- --------------------------------
Paul Rousseau wrote:
        Year One has a pair of patches for this for $159.00.  I was
wondering if
anyone knows where to find them for cheaper, if possible?  Or, does
anyone
have parts cars with good metal here?
- ---------------------------------

I called and looked into lots of sources for these, and the two best
bets as far as quality AND a decent price were Year One and a place
called Auto Body Specialties -- they're in CT somewhere.  I have the
address & phone # at home -- I'll look it up and post tomorrow if you're
interested.  They'll send you a free catalog (limited parts, but some
not so easy to find, for all different classic/muscle cars).  The
benefit to Year One is that they're almost always in stock when ya need
them, but Auto Body Specialties is worth a shot, especially if you're in
that area...
- --Dawn Roode

------------------------------

From: OLDS78442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:01:33 -0400
Subject: WANTED:  455

I am looking for a 455 compete, runs , resonable, it the connecticut area. It
is going in a 78 Cutlass with a 260 . the 260 runs well with 120000 miles and
is for sale or trade. Does any1 work at mcdonalds?What is involved in putting
in the 455?

Thanks, jason
OLDS78442
78 Cutlass

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:59:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Delta rear quarter needed..

> Hi, just wondering.. are the rear quarters from a 68 delta/delmont 88 the
> same as a 67's? I know where I can get a 68 rear quarter, but will this
fit
> my 67? thanks.

Hi ...

The GM parts catalogue lists the parts numbers for 67-68 "Panel, Rear
Quarter Side Outer" as being the same for 67-68 Delta/Delmonts, so the 68
should fit.  But you have to get a panel from the same body style.  FYI,
they are:

- -39: 4 door sedan (hardtop)
- -67: 2 door convertible
- -69: 4 door sedan (thin pillar)
- -87: 2 door coupe (hardtop)

If you've got a -39, you need to get one from a -39, etc.

The "rear quarter" as we think of it may differ from what this part refers
to, so depending on where you cut, you may get a bit of something that
doesn't match up across the years ...

Good luck

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:09:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaking Lena Again

Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil wrote:

> >>As I recall, isn't Lena a 442 with TH400 ? Remember a TH400 has no

Yes she is.

> kickdown cable; it's electrically controlled. A TH350 does have a cable,

I didn't know this.  I thought is was mechanically controlled.   What
does
a kickdown switch do in relation to a kickdown cable.

Chris Sparks
68  442

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:03:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaking Lena Again

>Andrew C. Green   wrote:
><<SNIP>>
>Rocker covers and oil pan gaskets (both engine and tranny) can get
>everything wet with oil, which then breeds dirt, which then causes the
>entire car to look supremely shabby.  In the case of rocker covers,
>sometimes double cork gaskets are the answer, instead of single.  And coat
>them with the gasket goo of your preference.
>
>>>DON'T use silicone sealer as it has a tendency to break loose and clog up
>the oil return holes. If you want thick cork gaskets MR Gasket makes the
>thickest ones I've seen. Cheap cork "Trak Auto" type versions are very thin.

As a matter of fact, I did _not_ write that; it was written by the Wiz.

Personally I prefer not to use gasket goo; the Copper Coat I was referring
to is a bit thinner than that and functions more as an adhesive seal than
a significant gap filler. I make sure the rocker cover sealing surface is
reasonably flat before buttoning it all up.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Etzel Bobby" <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:35:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Seat covers and wheel wells

Christine, if you go to this URL:

http://www.hmn.com/otherweb.html#adv

there is a list of the advertisers with links to there homepage's. One of
these places may sell the kit's you are looking for. I have looked in the Year
One catalog, but they only list cars up to 72. There phone number is
1-800-950-9503. Give them a call, they are very helpful and may know someone
you could call. You have a nice car and it is worth the cost and time to
restore it.

You may try the reupholster shops in your area also. They have source's to
order the correct covers also.

Check with Year One on the moldings also. They list the ones for a 70-72, I
dont know if the 75 is the same.

Sorry I can't be of more help, but this should be a start.

Bobby

70 442 (Escape Back to the....Past)
______________________________________________________________________________
_ From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Wed, Feb 12, 1997 1:33 PM Subject: Seat
covers and wheel wells To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

        Does no one have anything to add?  No advise or nothing?

______________________________ Forward Header
__________________________________
Subject: Seat covers and wheel wells
Author:  Christine Rooney at AO-PO1
Date:    2/6/97 9:28 AM


     Good morning all!

     I was wondering if anyone knows where to order kits to reupholster the
     seats from a 75 H/O?  Apparently, at a show in Hershey PA last summer
     there was someone selling kits for the "wet look" that fit either 74
     or 75's.  My husband is interested in finding out more information
     about this kit.

     Also - we need NOS chrome trim wheel wells.  Any thoughts?

     Regards,

     Christine



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From:	"Christine Rooney" <Christine.Rooney@bender.com>
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------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:23:00 -0400
Subject: Windshields

     OOPS, I accidentally deleted the post on windshield interchangeability
on the A body cars. Could someone please resend ?? Thanks in advance.

John Pajak     "DR. OLDS"
Lexington Park, MD
Pajak_John%PAX1@MR.NAWCAD.NAVY.MIL

65 Delta 88
66 Toronado
69 Cutlass S
70 Cutlass S W31
70 442 W30 convert
72 442 W30 convert
72 Delta 88 convert
+ others I might delete instead of deleting mail messages..

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:53:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 70-72 Big Block Frame Mounts

At 09:35 PM 2/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Is there any one out there that has a set of the big block frame mounts for
>>sale? I need a pair for a 442 I'm restoring.
>>
>
>
>What year 442?  69 and up are different than 68 and older.  All Cutlasses
>use the same frame mounts regardless if it is a 350 or a 455.  The Delta 88
>& 98 frame pads are the same as Cutlasses from '71 to '76.
>
>I have a pair off of a '70.  It is the type that mounts to the frame with 3
>bolts each.
>
>Tony


Tony,

        You do have a set of 455 engine mount brackets? If the 70's you have
are from a 455 please reply with a price. Thanks much appreciated.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:26:51 -0400
Subject: Re: 70-72 Big Block Frame Mounts

Hey Jim,
    I have a number at work for a guy in Ohio that I got my 455 mounts from.
 I'll be able to e-mail it to you on Friday, or I'll call you with it
tomorrow.

                         mark Heiser
                         Va Beach

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:27:21 -0400
Subject: Re: WANTED:  455

If you don't find one through your list, try your local junkyards.  I know
that up there in the cooooolllld snooooowwwwwy North, olds cars get a
trifle more rusty than here in the sunny southland, but there still might
be something to find.  I know where there is a good 455 w/out carburretor
here, but with everything else incl. a/c for $100!  If you want a 455
cheap, try looking in older Delta 88's or 98's as they normally have less
miles on them than the Cutlasses.  Of course, if  you are willing to spend
some more money, your best bet would be to find a Toronado or a 442 motor.

Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 OLDS78442@aol.com wrote:

> I am looking for a 455 compete, runs , resonable, it the connecticut area.
It > is going in a 78 Cutlass with a 260 . the 260 runs well with 120000 miles
and > is for sale or trade. Does any1 work at mcdonalds?What is involved in
putting > in the 455? > > Thanks, jason > OLDS78442 > 78 Cutlass > >

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:27:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Archive Availability

     Thanks Drew and Jeff, but I can't seem to get the archives right at
     the moment, it stalls after just a few K.  AOL is probably just busy.

     I can probably provide a permanent home for these in a few weeks once
     we get our in-house web server up.  As long as people don't get
     carried away downloading stuff during business hours and tying up our
     bandwidth (only got 128k), the management doesn't mind.

     Anyways, nice graphic on there (the @/ thing)!  Want to make one that
     we can print out to put on our windows at Olds events to find each
     other easier?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Archive Availability Author:
Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/12/97 10:08 AM


Thanks to Drew Senko, we have now made available, for a limited
time, the entire set of Mailing List Digests.  For those of you
that may have missed some, this is your second chance.

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:43:16 -0400
Subject: Re: 70-72 Big Block Frame Mounts

At 05:26 PM 2/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Jim,
>    I have a number at work for a guy in Ohio that I got my 455 mounts from.
> I'll be able to e-mail it to you on Friday, or I'll call you with it
>tomorrow.
>
>                         mark Heiser
>                         Va Beach


Mark

        Thanks! That will be great, awaiting your call.

Jim Chermack>

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:46:45 -0400
Subject: 65-66 Big Car Suspension

Just wanted to outfit Dan Lacey with my experiences on big car front ends.

1) Dan thanks for your informative post, it was excellent and not too long
for those of us who're interested. Great stuff.

2) My 66 98 convertible is set up as follows, most of these tricks will work
on 88's and 98's from 65-70. In 71 they changed the whole front end susp.
from ball joints to steering knuckles.

Swapping generalities: 88's and 98's used the same A Arms (upper + lower)
from 65-70. There were two different spindles depending on whether or not
you have disc or drum front brakes.  That's the major difference. If you do
swap from drum discs (highly recommended) you'll need: 15" wheels, dual master
cylinder and adjustable brake proportioning valve. And, of course front disc
spindles, rotors calipers, brake hoses, etc. Also be sure to get the 70 disc
setup, by then Olds had settled on the corporate one piston system. Rotors are
rare (does anybody have a good to great set to sell?).  71 calipers will fit
70 backing plates with just a little filing.

I'm using stock rubber bushings with my car because it was designed to ride
that way, and I'd heard of the dreaded squeaks. I've experienced 'em too since
I have polyurethane on the standard front sway bar. Since greased and quiet
now.  I can't imagine graphite impregnated wouldn't work as well if not
better. Prob'ly a good idea.

KYB shocks are one great way to go for front shocks, perfect balance between
control and smooth ride. As noted in this bandwidth before I've beefed up
my Lower A arms with some welded in rebar since each side has broken on me
right at the ball joint (they just weren't designed to go 300K miles...). The
inner lower A arm mount points seem to go out of round over the years and
then you get that funny clunking sound, if you get junkyard pieces look out
for this.

When I pulled my front & rear suspension members, I had each piece magnafluxed
and checked for cracks. No problems there (thankfully) so now I can go 75 mph+
and not worry about pieces going and breaking on me. This is not cheap, but
you'll sleep better. Boxing the rear control arms sounds great to me, I'll
have to think about that.

As usual if any of y'all (apologies to Bill Culp) have questions on the big
cars of this vintage (66 a specialty), shoot 'em over.

happy trails.

cf

PS: As some of you may recall my car was hit in Dec. by an uninsured person.
It is back and better than ever with new deck lid, paint, bumper and freshly
buffed stainless steel. Glad to have it back and right.

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 12:44:56 -0400
Subject: Question on storing a motor

I have a '72 Olds 455 that I spent $1500 rebuilding.  About 3 months ago it
was pulled from the car it was in (installing original drivetrain to sell
car) and is stored in my garage until a future project arrives to place it
in.  Since I don't have the money to buy (another) project now I was
wondering if I should close up the combustion chamber to prevent any moisture
or anything from getting into the engine.  It currently is minus carb, may
put duct tape over the intake mounting area or bolt on a carb lifting plate.
Minus exhaust manifolds, will probably duct tape up the exhaust ports on the
heads.  Minus distributor, currently have a rag stuffed in there but will
soon have a distributor installed.  Minus some heater valve and temp sending
unit on intake.
  The motor will be sitting for at least several more months if not a year and
 I was wondering if I should loosen the rockers to close any valves that may
be open?  Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated as I
don't want anything to ruin this engine until I have a chance to place it in
a car I want and see what she'll do.  Thanks in advance.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback
and a '72 455 without a home (yet)

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:41:00 -0400
Subject: Lena

"I didn't know this.  I thought is was mechanically controlled.   What
does
a kickdown switch do in relation to a kickdown cable.

Chris Sparks
68  442"

     The kickdown switch (located at the gas pedal inside the car on a 68)
sends 12 volts to a connector on the side of a TH400 case during full
throttle conditions. This then energizes a solenoid inside the trans
providing downshifts for passing as well as higher rpm shift points for max
acceleration. The TH350 kickdown cable accomplishes the same thing, except
everything is mechanically actuated through the cable.
     The 2-speed automatics from 68 and 69 found in Cutlasses also downshift
electrically. You can use the switch assy and gas pedal from these cars to
convert TH350 cars to TH400.

John Pajak   DR OLDS

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:40:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaking Lena Again

"I didn't know this.  I thought is was mechanically controlled.   What
does
a kickdown switch do in relation to a kickdown cable.

Chris Sparks
68  442"

     The kickdown switch (located at the gas pedal inside the car on a 68)
sends 12 volts to a connector on the side of a TH400 case during full
throttle conditions. This then energizes a solenoid inside the trans
providing downshifts for passing as well as higher rpm shift points for max
acceleration. The TH350 kickdown cable accomplishes the same thing, except
everything is mechanically actuated through the cable.
     The 2-speed automatics from 68 and 69 found in Cutlasses also downshift
electrically. You can use the switch assy and gas pedal from these cars to
convert TH350 cars to TH400.

John Pajak   DR OLDS

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:10:59 -0400
Subject: GM Performance Catalogue

Following a tip from another list, I just came across the 1997 parts
catalogue on the web:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmpp/r3200.htm

The good news is that you don't have to pay $6.95, and you can avoid all
those Ch*vy sections since a .pdf file is available just for Oldsmobile.
The Adobe Acrobat reader can be downloaded from links provided on this
page.  Interestingly, there is some Olds stuff that is not present in my
1995 book: there appears to be 2 camshaft kits for 1967-84 Olds engines.
Perhaps someone can compare these to other aftermarket camshafts.
I recently installed the Acrobat reader in my Linux box and it works
very well!

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:14:47 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Olds in latest Car Craft

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>

> Can't wait for the subscription to run out next year.

Your lucky.  My subscription runs out around the year 2000
due to the kids next door repeatedly hitting on me for a magazine
subscription to help out their school. Unfortunately, Muscle Car
Review isn't one of the magazines on their list...

- -Jeff "just say no" Easton
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <DBennett@asuvax.eas.asu.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:11:24 -0400
Subject: Dash Problems

I recently bought a '72 Cutlass Supreme, in excellent shape except for
the dash board around the radio.  The last owner cut it away for a cheap
non-original radio.  Is there a patch or repair kit for this?  I'd
apperciate any help or advice.
- --
Daniel Bennett
Academic Advisor, Graduate Programs
Computer Science and Engineering
Arizona State University
dbennett@asu.edu
For more info visit our Webpage
http://www.eas.asu.edu/~csedept

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:18:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Lena

 Heyyy... I didn't even think about the switch being able to work for a
TH400, do you think the same set up for a '67 Olds will work?

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:21:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Olds in latest Car Craft

>Your lucky.  My subscription runs out around the year 2000
>due to the kids next door repeatedly hitting on me for a magazine
>subscription to help out their school. Unfortunately, Muscle Car
>Review isn't one of the magazines on their list...

Speaking of magazines, the latest Car & Driver has a review of the
new Cutla^H^H^H^H^HWhatever-the-heck-it's-called on a couple of
pages. I skimmed it quickly this morning and I think on the whole
they liked it, though in a sidebar they say it might be a good idea
to wait for a Northstar-variant engine coming in 1998.

There was also an ominous comment about how the only Oldsmobile
nameplates appeared on the radio and one backup lamp.  :-{

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:29:25 -0400
Subject: Replacement Muffler

I think all this muffler talk recently has caused the muffler in my '86
Supreme to start deteriorating.  The car actually has a kind of nice
rumble to it now, considering it's single exhaust.

I'm curious, when I get around to replacing the thing (which could be
months because I don't consider a perfect muffler a necessity), are
there any 'performance' mufflers available for single exhaust?  Maybe
one that has higher flow and a bit more noise to it?  This car is a
daily driver and I don't really care to spend a lot on the exhaust
system, so duals are out for now.

It might just be my imagination, but the car seems to accelerate more
freely with the rusty muffler...

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:15:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 65-66 Big Car Suspension

>Just wanted to outfit Dan Lacey with my experiences on big car front ends.
>
>1) Dan thanks for your informative post, it was excellent and not too long
>for those of us who're interested. Great stuff.
>

My pleasure!

>2) My 66 98 convertible is set up as follows, most of these tricks will

(Damn!! Every time you say "convertible", I drool! I just don't have the
heart to cut it...)

work
>on 88's and 98's from 65-70. In 71 they changed the whole front end susp.
>from ball joints to steering knuckles.
>
>Swapping generalities: 88's and 98's used the same A Arms (upper + lower)
>from 65-70. There were two different spindles depending on whether or not
>you have disc or drum front brakes.  That's the major difference. If you
>do swap from drum discs (highly recommended) you'll need: 15" wheels, dual
>master cylinder and adjustable brake proportioning valve. And, of course
>front disc spindles, rotors calipers, brake hoses, etc. Also be sure to
>get the 70 disc setup,
>by then Olds had settled on the corporate one piston system. Rotors are rare
>(does anybody have a good to great set to sell?).  71 calipers will fit 70
>backing plates with just a little filing.
>

This is INVALUABLE information! I am going to rebuild the drum cylinders
this weekend (hopefully). I have a new, dual circuit master cylinder from a
Cutlass. I hope it works... I am going to order the proportioning valve
from Summit Racing; They are only ~$40!!! Then comes trying to figure out
the brake lines... I plan to install the master cylinder and valve (and
lines) and get that all working before going to disks (which I was hoping
would not include the wheel size change!). What size tires are you using? I
was planning on P235/70-R14, but now if I have to go to 15" wheels, I'll be
looking at P235/60 or P235/65, whatever is available. I don't want too
small a profile to keep the ride nice, but a taller tire (diameter) gives
more tread area (this of course means the speedo is wrong and you may sit
too high off the ground....).

>I'm using stock rubber bushings with my car because it was designed to ride
>that way, and I'd heard of the dreaded squeaks. I've experienced 'em too
since >I have polyurethane on the standard front sway bar. Since greased and
quiet >now.  I can't imagine graphite impregnated wouldn't work as well if not
>better. Prob'ly a good idea. >

I have heard the same thing about squeaks... How long did it take for your
mounts to start talking? We'll see how mine do...

>KYB shocks are one great way to go for front shocks, perfect balance between
>control and smooth ride. As noted in this bandwidth before I've beefed up
>my Lower A arms with some welded in rebar since each side has broken on me
>right at the ball joint (they just weren't designed to go 300K miles...).

I put Gabriel Red Ryder's Gas shocks on the rear beacause they came in the
trunk of the car... I was planning on KYB because they have a good name and
are affordable. Glad to hear they work well on this vehicle. I was planning
on putting them all the way around when the front end is done.

The
>inner lower A arm mount points seem to go out of round over the years and
>then you get that funny clunking sound, if you get junkyard pieces look out
>for this.
>

Do you mean they go out of round on the arm, or where the arm attaches to
the frame???

>When I pulled my front & rear suspension members, I had each piece
magnafluxed >and checked for cracks. No problems there (thankfully) so now I
can go 75 mph+ >and not worry about pieces going and breaking on me. This is
not cheap, but >you'll sleep better. Boxing the rear control arms sounds great
to me, I'll >have to think about that. > >As usual if any of y'all (apologies
to Bill Culp) have questions on the big >cars of this vintage (66 a
specialty), shoot 'em over. > >happy trails. > >cf > >PS: As some of you may
recall my car was hit in Dec. by an uninsured person. >It is back and better
than ever with new deck lid, paint, bumper and freshly >buffed stainless
steel. Glad to have it back and right.

I have been off the list for a while. Sorry to hear about it... I hope you
ended up with a better car because of it! I am just hoping for some to hit
my rear end so I can get some body work done (well... not really. Knowing
my luck, they would want to total the thing before replacing a fender.).

Talk to Ya soon...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:14:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Patch Panels

> I called and looked into lots of sources for these, and the two best
> bets as far as quality AND a decent price were Year One and a place
> called Auto Body Specialties -- they're in CT somewhere.  I have the
> address & phone # at home -- I'll look it up and post tomorrow if you're
> interested.  They'll send you a free catalog (limited parts, but some
> not so easy to find, for all different classic/muscle cars).  The
> benefit to Year One is that they're almost always in stock when ya need
> them, but Auto Body Specialties is worth a shot, especially if you're in
> that area...
> --Dawn Roode

I'm not in the area, but a # for ABS would be great.  I'm gonna have to
break into my paint-fund-piggy-bank for the new panels.  :-(  This is a
major setback for me right now, as I was SOOOOOOOO close to getting the
first coat of primer on.  Well, life goes on.....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:25:10 -0400
Subject: Re:Re: Switch to discs

>Maybe it will stop as well for the first run.  My former '69 Cutlass (4W
>Drums) would stop well for the first 100 mph- zero run.  But if I
>immediately reaccelerated to100 and tried it again, I would run out of
>brakes by the time I got down to 60 mph.  If a person's driving style
>is not excessive, then drums work fine.

Yeah, driving style makes a big difference.  My Cutlass has only seen a 100+
mph speed once since I've been driving it (about eight years).  It rarely
sees anything over 75 or 80, and I don't do any fast go/stop/go/stop cycles.
She's a good daily dirver.

>Your advice about rebuilding using good parts is excellent.

Gee, thanks...I've replaced brake shoes before with cheap, no-name pads from
the local discount parts house, and they never lasted very long before they
started cracking.  The latest shoes have been on there for more than a year,
and are still in fine shape.  It also helps if the shoes linings are
~riveted~ as well as bonded.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Oldsnut1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:30:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat covers and wheel wells

Hey Christine,
I have a 75 H/O and I've gone through a lot of thoubble to get info on the
necessary fabrics(4 different kinds)to completely reupholster the
buckets.They are not WETLOOK maybe 73was but not 75.If you need info E-mail
me privately at
Oldsnut1@aol.com
                                                                      Happy
Oldsmobileing



                                                                      Anthony
B.

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:44:31 -0400
Subject: Neat sight and other stuff...

On the way home from my daily parts hunt :( I noticed a car driving by,
leaving town.  I caught a glimpse of it first, and thought "Gawd that looks
like an Oldss, but there's no split grille.  It cleared the other cars and I
could see the rest.  Oh, that top window...  A Vista, roughly '65.  I turned
around and chased it up the hill to get a closer look.  Oil Smoke Blue (OK,
that's a Fo*d term, but I'm not sure what Olds called it:) Blaine county
(MT) plates (borders my county to the east) and a dent in the pass. rear
door.  Neat car.  Didn't stop to talk, tho.  Oh, you VC owners will ~love~
this.  License plates said "WATAVEW"  I really thought that was cool!

Nothing new on the Rockit's saga, except that I started filling out
paperwork for a loan for it.

I got the new Che*y Craft today.  Anyone else notice the advice line in the
back about the guy from MI with ignition troubles?  (I know Jason mentioned
it)  He has a built 350 Rocket in his 79 Cutlass.  He replaced a head gasket
a year back, and it ran OK.  After a few months he changed out his ignition
parts -- left the dist. alone, but put on new coil, wires, and plugs, and
possibly module, don't remember.  It won't run.  It backfires, etc.  Car
Craft wants him to run a compression check, check accel pump and carb, then
spark strength, then ~condition~ of the wires, the pickup coil, the dist.
cap, then (finally) the firing order.  They go on to check the distributor
installation, timing chain, and camshaft.

Good Lord guys!  The car just ran a few days ago, he put new wires on and it
won't run right.  Now, wouldn't it be logical to verify the firing order
~first~???  Here this poor guy will end up with the camshaft in his hand
inspecting the dist. drive gear, and ~then~ realize that he swithed the 5
and 7 around, or wired it backwards...  Of course, thats what he gets for
asking ~che*y Craft~ an Olds question!  :)


Well, enough babbling, later y'all...



      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:44:35 -0400
Subject: Re: WANTED:  455

>I am looking for a 455 compete, runs , resonable, it the connecticut area. It
>is going in a 78 Cutlass with a 260 . the 260 runs well with 120000 miles and
>is for sale or trade. Does any1 work at mcdonalds?What is involved in putting
>in the 455?


Man, sounds familiar...  It'll bolt up fine, but you've gotta have AC.  (the
non AC heater box won't clear the rocker covers.)  The exhaust needs to be
modified, and the AC bracket will need to be modified if you want to keep
the new R4 compressor.  I ~used~ to work at Micky D's, back before I reached
the age of reason.  Ya thinkin' of trading that 260 for a Big Mac? :)  They
might make you pitch in a couple dollars to boot, though.  $350 can get you
a great set of headers for that swap, too.  I haven't done that ~yet~ but
maybe someday...  Try to stick with 455's older than '71.  If you see a "J"
on the heads, keep looking, unless it's cheap.  They aren't as good as the
older ones.  If you get much newer than that, you won't get the performance
you'd expect from a 455, although it would be arguably better than a 260. :)
Don't shy away from the 425, though, cuz they're great motors, too.  I'm
sure you'll have better luck finding a 455, at any rate...  Good luck, feel
free to fire away, if there are any other questions....



      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:40:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat covers and wheel wells

On Wed, 12 Feb 1997, Christine Rooney wrote:
>      I was wondering if anyone knows where to order kits to reupholster the
>      seats from a 75 H/O?  Apparently, at a show in Hershey PA last summer
>      there was someone selling kits for the "wet look" that fit either 74
>      or 75's.  My husband is interested in finding out more information
>      about this kit.
>
>      Also - we need NOS chrome trim wheel wells.  Any thoughts?

Christine, unfortunately there are fewer suppliers of parts (at least so
far) for the 73-77 vintage Cutlass than the earlier models. However,
occasionally in Journey With Olds you see ads for this sort of thing. I'd
suggest joining the Olds Club if you haven't yet done so just to get that
magazine. There is also a chapter of the OCA that specializes in these
cars, and I think someone here is a member. Perhaps he can step up and
provide you with an address and more info.

This vintage has been overlooked until recently but having driven in Wes
Fujii's '75 Hurst/Olds in Idaho last year I would give my eyeteeth to have
one. And I really like the '76/77 models with the slanted noses. I hope
they will experience a rebirth soon.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:45:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Sport Steering Wheel

On Wed, 12 Feb 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
> My steering wheel that I currently have, even though it is not a
> sport one, has three posts all at 90 degrees from each other.  Their
> is some rubber parts affixed to these posts with two having cut
> outs for the silver horn accuators.  Is this a standard steering
> wheel?

Actually that is a "deluxe" steering wheel as opposed to the standard
type that was found in (I assume) F-85s. It is sort of sporty looking in
itself and I like the 4 metal rings that segment the rim. But an actual
sport wheel would be the ultimate. After reading the various posts on the
subject (thanks Dal!) I'm still confused. I think I will hold out for the
genuine article, it sounds too difficult to mix and match all of these
parts without getting the wrong items.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Oldsnut1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:43:29 -0400
Subject: L.I. & N.Y.C. Olds Club Members!!!!!!!!!!!

I would like to know If any LI&NYC OLDS CLUB members are in this forum.
Also I'd like to know how to access the LI&NYC CLUB homepage because I see it
but I can't get to it.
                                                                       Happy
Oldsmobileing


                                                                      Anthony
Barna












                                                             Oldsnut1@aol.com

------------------------------

From: David Anthony Castillo <dac7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:54:42 -0400
Subject: Unsubscribe

How does one unsubscribe from this list? My roommate signed on to it with
my account and I lost the confirmation...

------------------------------

From: GWright442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:55:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Ouch goes the Rockit :(

I just sold my 84' Calais about 6 months ago.  It had amber turn signals and
the grill was the same style as the H/O but they had no black on them.

------------------------------

From: Harry Mulligan <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:59:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Replacement Muffler

just put a 2 chamber flowmaster on...about 50bux for the muffler! it'll
give you the rumble  your looking for!!




At 06:29 PM 2/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I think all this muffler talk recently has caused the muffler in my '86
>Supreme to start deteriorating.  The car actually has a kind of nice
>rumble to it now, considering it's single exhaust.
>
>I'm curious, when I get around to replacing the thing (which could be
>months because I don't consider a perfect muffler a necessity), are
>there any 'performance' mufflers available for single exhaust?  Maybe
>one that has higher flow and a bit more noise to it?  This car is a
>daily driver and I don't really care to spend a lot on the exhaust
>system, so duals are out for now.
>
>It might just be my imagination, but the car seems to accelerate more
>freely with the rusty muffler...
>
>Ryan Hehn
>ryanh@docker.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: GWright442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:03:43 -0400
Subject: Re: The Meaning of 442

I have read that 442 (probably post 1964) stood for:

4- 400
4- 4-Barrel
2- Dual Exhaust

My father was shopping for Oldsmobiles in 1965 (Bought a brand new 1965
Starfire) and that is what he remembers also.

------------------------------

From: Harry Mulligan <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:08:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Neat sight and other stuff...

I got the new Che*y Craft today.  Anyone else notice the advice line in the
>back about the guy from MI with ignition troubles?  (I know Jason mentioned
>it)  He has a built 350 Rocket in his 79 Cutlass.  He replaced a head gasket
>a year back, and it ran OK.  After a few months he changed out his ignition
>parts -- left the dist. alone, but put on new coil, wires, and plugs, and
>possibly module, don't remember.  It won't run.  It backfires, etc.  Car
>Craft wants him to run a compression check, check accel pump and carb, then
>spark strength, then ~condition~ of the wires, the pickup coil, the dist.
>cap, then (finally) the firing order.  They go on to check the distributor
>installation, timing chain, and camshaft.
>
>Good Lord guys!  The car just ran a few days ago, he put new wires on and it
>won't run right.  Now, wouldn't it be logical to verify the firing order
>~first~???  Here this poor guy will end up with the camshaft in his hand
>inspecting the dist. drive gear, and ~then~ realize that he swithed the 5
>and 7 around, or wired it backwards...  Of course, thats what he gets for
>asking ~che*y Craft~ an Olds question!  :)



well an obvious thing to look for is did he put the wires on
correctly....after all
olds firing order is the same as chev but the opposite direection...chev is
clockwise on the cap and olds is counterclockwise that's my bet on his problem

Jeff

------------------------------

From: GWright442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:23:23 -0400
Subject: Re: WANTED 455

I put a 455 in place of a 260 in a 1979 Cutlass. The 455 was stock from a
1976 Delta 88 (Grandma's Land Cruiser). It wasn't difficult, all harnesses,
etc. fit fine.  The only problem is that due to the taller block size, if you
install the air conditioner on the existing bracket, the hood will not be
able to shut. All other existing brackets will bolt on.  I didn't install the
air back on my car.  It would have been nice though since the heat of the
engine wedged into the engine compartment melted the soles off my shoes!  I
did use the existing 260 radiator with very little overheating problems.

Good Luck!

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:30:05 -0400
Subject: 1967_442_Convertible

Howdy everybody,

Some of you know that I'm partial to the Saffron yellow/yellow combination
that was unique to 1967 and my Cutlass convertible is a beautifully restored
original. The Cutlass came after years of no success hunting for a 442.

Guess what, I've found my 442 but after wrestling with my conscience am
forced to pass on it. I do not have enough time to bring this car back to
where it deserves to be, but believe me, it's been a tough decision.

If you are interested, read on.

Merits:

1967 442 Convertible
     Yellow/Yellow w/white top
     Black trim (dash, carpet, steering wheel, door panel bases etc) *
Air Conditioning
Automatic (Hydramatic)
Power steering (heavy duty, not short ratio)
Power brakes
De Luxe 3-spoke Steering Wheel has no cracks (first I've seen, this year was
                            notorious for wheels breaking up at hub and rim)
Power top works (vinyl seems fine, but window is yellowed and cracked).
Original PBR (AM)
Original Owner with ProtectoPlate and Owners Manual
Deluxe wheel covers
Air shocks and towbar
Console chrome is fine and glovebox lid still works
Pot metal trim across back of trunk has no 'zits'
Rear taillights are also zit-free
Bumpers and side trim are good-excellent
Straight body, no evidence of any damage anywhere
442 air filter cover without snorkel
Rear seat looks like all it needs is cleaning to come up perfect

* This is a big plus, my Cutlass has the khaki trim and nothing is available
  to match it. If you don't want to refresh the yellow interior you can go
  with black from Year One.

Demerits:

Windshield has wiper scratches
Had a limited fire under hood, looks like it was air conditioning harness
Motor has been redone in recent times (blue silicon has edged out all around
                                                            intake manifold)
Chrome on dash is completely gone along the bottom edge and looks 'worn'
                                 overall with voids of chrome elsewhere also
Paint looks like good quality but some overspray and scratches on rear
                                             quarter panel on passenger side
Spare is an F70x14 Goodyear redline, road tires are wide and lettered
Motor has a W30-like lope to it which suggests cam has been replaced
Quadrajet looks like it had a recent rebuild
Front seats have sheepskin on them to hide the torn upholstery (original
                      material is still available so this is not a big deal)
Side panels are faded by sun and need refreshing with vinyl dye/paint (no
               problem here, mine were redone on the Cutlass and look great)
Motor needs complete cosmetics, fire burned off all the paint except where
                                        the 442 decal is on the valve cover
Compared to cars back East, this car is rust free, but I did find the trunk
                        has a small hole in one rear corner from top leakage
Both front quarter panels have a couple of bubbles in the triangle below the
                                                 trim next to the front door

Impression:

The car drives well, with a good feel to the steering and the transmission
shifts smoothly. The suspension squeaking suggests new bushings are needed
but it does not handle like the bushings are shot. They may be polyurethane
and need some grease to quieten them down.

History:

The story told me is that the car was bought new in Utah and the father gave
it to his son when he came to California a couple of years ago (that fits,
the hitch looks new). Based on a service in Utah in 1993, mileage in the
last 3+ years has been about 6,000. The clock shows 10,000 and it is more
likely to be the first time around than the second.

The son took off and left the car in an apartment lot so it was towed away
and has not been reclaimed. The car is available with a clean title but is
not licensed at this time.

I figure $6,500-$7,000 is needed to buy it, and the decision time is 2-3
days (sorry about the short notice but remember that until today, it was me
who was going to buy it).

The car is here in San Jose, and if it goes out of state then presumably no
tax will have to be paid in California (saves 7.75% but you would have to
pay your state tax when you come to license it).

I'm headed out of town tonight but will be back tomorrow night. You can
always reach me at my office number. The voice mail system forwards to
whatever phone number I'm at, or takes a message.

If you need to chat I'm at 408-867-6630x777. I happen to be a late night
person and some of you may be early birds so if you leave a message be sure
to tell me what time zone you're in and when to reach you.

Dal

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 12:22:10 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Performance Catalogue

     Interesting stuff.  I like the looks of those Olds valve covers.  They
     would sure look nice on the H/O.  Unfortunately, they don't have PCV
     or breather holes!  I'll have to remember that alum. water pump if
     mine ever needs replacing.  It says for all "off road" oldsmobile
     V8's, I wonder why that is?  Anyone have any clues?

     I also took note of the Aerodynamics kit for the '88-'90 Cutlass
     Supreme, like on the '88 Indy Pace Car.  Neat!

     I don't suppose those DRCE alum. heads will fit an Olds BB, will they?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: GM Performance Catalogue Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/12/97 2:21 PM


Following a tip from another list, I just came across the 1997 parts
catalogue on the web:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmpp/r3200.htm

------------------------------

From: Howdy <y5x5a5jv@coastalnet.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:42:50 -0400
Subject: front grilles for 85 Cutlass (I promised)

Oldsmobilers,
I promised a guy up in MI a set of front grilles for 20.00....I lost his
address and phone number...I got it from this mailing list about three
weeks ago...Anyone waiting for two grilles from me in NC
Howdy

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:39:14 -0400
Subject: Speed Bleeders

Thought this might be interesting... Already got a reply from the company:

                                Front                   Rear
1965 Olds 98                    3/8 x 24                3/8 x 24

>From another list:

>No, just just check out their web page at
>
>http://www.speedbleeder.com/
>
>or e-mail them at

>speedbleeder@super-highway.net
>
>prices are $6.95 a piece, not $10 a pair.  They work great.  Mike Sulwer >is
>my contact there. He is very prompt at returning e-mail.
>
>
>LT


>At 09:08 AM 2/12/97 -0800, you wrote:
>>Judging by some of the email I got when I first mentioned Speed
>>Bleeders, a few of you that I was suffering from too much SoCal sun, or
>>some other affliction.
>>
>>So I took about a half hour to track down the product.  Speed Bleeders
>>are check-valve brake bleeders that allow one-man brake bleeding.  Open
>>Speed Bleeder, pump brakes until no more air comes out, close bleeder.
>>
>>The note says "available for all popular applications at a cost of $10
>>per pair".
>>
>>This morning I attempted to verify a few facts about the product
>>range.  The place was very busy, and nobody has been available to
>>answer specific questions.  I have a call in to Russell, and will
>>post further details when I get them.
>>
>>Russell Performance, Datona Beach (904) 253-8980
>>
>>Frank Evan Perdicaro                    Dainippon Screen Engineering of
America
>>BSP, MSCE, not yet LPE; Chevy & Hawk w/ V  3700 Segerstrom Ave
>>inhouse: frank@server, x1258                 Santa Ana CA
>>outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x1258      92704       DoD:1097
>>

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:42:52 -0400
Subject: Re: WANTED  455

At 03:49 PM 2/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
> I was wonder ing if anybody out there is selling a  455, that runs. I prefer
>the complete motor. I live in Ct so the closer the better. The motor is going
>in a 78 cutlass with a 260 in it now. If i get a 455 the 260 will be for sale
>, it has 120000 miles on it , but runs well so if anyone is interested let me
>know. make a offer.
>Also, what does it take to put the 455 in.
>
>                                         thanks, Jason
>                                   OLDS78442
>78 cutlass
>
>
>
Mostly time and money.

Anon. I

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:08:37 -0400
Subject: Re: front grilles for 85 Cutlass (I promised)

Howdy,

My friend Kurt Manning was the one that wanted the grilles for the 85
Cutlass.  His address is:

Kurt Manning
1358 Lookingglass Rd.
Portland MI 48875

(517)647-4398

He was looking for grilles, rim trim, beauty rings and center caps
for rallye Olds rims.  He'll mail the check upon reciept of these
items.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:17:44 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Performance Catalogue

At 12:22 PM 2/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>     Interesting stuff.  I like the looks of those Olds valve covers.  They
>     would sure look nice on the H/O.  Unfortunately, they don't have PCV
>     or breather holes!  I'll have to remember that alum. water pump if
>     mine ever needs replacing.  It says for all "off road" oldsmobile
>     V8's, I wonder why that is?  Anyone have any clues?

For 'off road' use the emissions need not comply with the standards, as it
is not a licensed vehicle!

And hency quite likely illegal to use on a licensed vehicle.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:45:56 -0400
Subject: stalling upon burnouts

Olds-er's,

When I do burnouts with my 84 Cutlass, I let off the gas and the
motor nearly stalls out.  Why is that?  I have a totally stock 307
with TCI Saturday Nite Special torque converter on a 350 turbo and
shift kit.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:55:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Sport Steering Wheel

Greg,

     It is easy to put together a sport steering wheel.  The hardware is
all the same for any GM car.  In fact, you can buy things like the hub
from one of those there Ch*vy restoration places.  In fact, I think you
can put together a 1969 RS/SS Camaro from reproduction parts alone.  The
only part that is uniquely Oldsmobile is the center emblem.  But good
news, the center emblem is exactly the same as the emblem used on the 70
and up Sport wheels.  Those can be found in abundance (I even have a few
extras).  Another note, the steering wheel does not have to come from an
A-body car.  The wheels from the F-bodies are the same.  The wheels from
the Impala (and possibly several other large cars) are the same.  The
only ones that I know are different are the Corvette ones.  Even if you
got a different color wheel (say a 69 Rosewood wheel from a Camaro), you
could have it restored to the correct color for your Olds.

- -Dan

>
> On Wed, 12 Feb 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
> > My steering wheel that I currently have, even though it is not a
> > sport one, has three posts all at 90 degrees from each other.  Their
> > is some rubber parts affixed to these posts with two having cut
> > outs for the silver horn accuators.  Is this a standard steering
> > wheel?
>
> Actually that is a "deluxe" steering wheel as opposed to the standard
> type that was found in (I assume) F-85s. It is sort of sporty looking in
> itself and I like the 4 metal rings that segment the rim. But an actual
> sport wheel would be the ultimate. After reading the various posts on the
> subject (thanks Dal!) I'm still confused. I think I will hold out for the
> genuine article, it sounds too difficult to mix and match all of these
> parts without getting the wrong items.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:32:17 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Performance Catalogue

I looked at this thing too. I'm confused (as usual). They talk about a
DRCE Olds block, but it takes Chevy internals and accepts Chevy heads. It
apparently does have a B-O-P bellhousing pattern. So what the heck is it,
a Chevy V-8 or a Rocket V-8 or something else entirely. If the latter,
why is it called an "Oldsmobile" engine if it has no relation to any
engine installed in an Olds by the factory? Is this just another rebadged
"piece of Chevelle" as Kathy Mattea might say?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:27:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Sport Steering Wheel

Dan Williams wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
>      It is easy to put together a sport steering wheel.  The hardware is
> all the same for any GM car.  In fact, you can buy things like the hub
> from one of those there Ch*vy restoration places.  In fact, I think you
> can put together a 1969 RS/SS Camaro from reproduction parts alone.  The
> only part that is uniquely Oldsmobile is the center emblem.  But good
> news, the center emblem is exactly the same as the emblem used on the 70
> and up Sport wheels.  Those can be found in abundance (I even have a few
> extras).  Another note, the steering wheel does not have to come from an
> A-body car.  The wheels from the F-bodies are the same.  The wheels from
> the Impala (and possibly several other large cars) are the same.  The
> only ones that I know are different are the Corvette ones.  Even if you
> got a different color wheel (say a 69 Rosewood wheel from a Camaro), you
> could have it restored to the correct color for your Olds.
>
> -Dan

I checked my 2-spoke wheel compared to my GS 3-spoke one.  Of course the
GS one is an inch or so smaller in diameter.  The hubs are not alike as
I thought.  The GS one is about 1/4" smaller in diameter than the Olds
2-spoke one used on non-column ignition locks.  The wheels are also
different in that the GS one is about an inch shallower than my Olds
one.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: OLDS78442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:33:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Question on storing a motor

GET A MOTOR SLEEPING BAG FROM SUMMIT

------------------------------

From: OLDS78442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:33:56 -0400
Subject: Re: stalling upon burnouts

MY CAR DOES THE SAME. IT IS A 78 CUTLASS WITH A 260. I THINK IT IS THE
CARBORATOR

JASON

------------------------------

From: OLDS78442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:36:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Replacement Muffler

MOST AFTER MARKET WILL FIT. GO WITH FLOWMASTER THOUGH.THEY SOUND GOOD ON MY
SINGLE. LESS BACK PRESURE IS THE REASON FOR YOUR BETTER ACCEL.
JASON

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:34:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Question on storing a motor

- ----------
> From: Chris R. Smetana <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
> To: oldsmobile <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Question on storing a motor
> Date: Wednesday, February 12, 1997 10:44 AM
>
> I
> I was wondering if I should loosen the rockers to close any valves that
may be
> open?  Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated as I
don't
> want anything to ruin this engine until I have a chance to place it in a
car I
> want and see what she'll do.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> chris_r._smetana@dadc.com
>
> 1969 Cutlass W-31
> 2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
> 1971 Skylark custom convertable
> 1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback
> and a '72 455 without a home (yet)
>It is always a good idea to loosen off the rockers to seal the cylinders.
It is better for your valve springs too. I usually put some Marvel Mystery
oil in the spark plug holes and re install the plugs. Oil should be changed
before storeing a engine so there is none of the acids that build up in
oil. Turn the engine a few revolutions every few weeks and you can store it
a long time without hurting it.
Walter

------------------------------

From: kdporter <kdporter@midwest.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:29:48 -0400
Subject: Old olds adds

- --
	I have some old adds out of Look magazine,here is a list
66 442 red
65 442 convertible red
66 cutlass 2 door red
66 vista cruiser blue
65 vista cruiser white
67 vista cruiser white
71 vista cruiser blue,woodgrain
67 98 gold
67 cutlass 4 door black
68 delmont 88 brown --silver
69 88 gold
69 toro 2 page gray
70 cutlass S 2 page gold
70 cutlass supreme silver
66 88 white
70 delta 88 royale 2 page gold
72 88 2 page brown
68 toro green
67 delmont 88 red
72 cutlass supreme gold
72 cutlass S red
71 cutlass S gold &cutlasssupreme blue 2 page
66 toro gold
66 88 2 door blue
66 88 4 door blue
66 88 4 door white
66 toro 2 page gray
71 delta 88 2 door gold
66 jetstar 88 4 door blue
	Thats all the olds adds i have.I got a hold of every LOOK mag.from
64-72.Some of you might remember this mag.it is the same size as Life
mag.I would like to get rid of these adds if anybody is enterested,i
will give most of them away you pay for the shipping.
I also have a 67 cutlass assembly manual,the one year one sells 20.00.
Thanks

kdporter
kdporter@midwest.net

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #515
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