To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #561


oldsmobile-digest         Saturday, 15 March 1997      Volume 01 : Number 561

more Key questions...
Re: W30 Thermostat
Re: Parts Interchange Q's
Chrome,polishing, bumper cores
Re: Re[2]: Another FAQ
Re: Sway bars
3/14 Race Car Model Kit For Sale
Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?
Re: Sway bars
Re: Lock Tumblers
Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants
Re: Misaligned center console
Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants
A couple longer questions
Re: Fuel Filter Replacement...
Re: Well wishes
Re: Re[2]: Another FAQ
Junkyard Idiots!
Answering My Own Question
Re: Junkyard Idiots!
Re: Parts Interchange Q's
Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants
Re: A couple longer questions
Re: '77 Olds 442
Re: Junkyard Idiots!
Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re:(2) Distributor curves
olds classified ads
Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?
Re: A couple longer questions
Re: Sedan Delivery??
Catalytic convertor in 81 307
Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?
Re: Catalytic convertor in 81 307
Model Survey
Re: Sway bars
Re: BEWARE POTENTIAL BUYERS
Re: Model Survey
Re: Junkyard Idiots!
Junkyard Idiots
Re: Chrome,polishing, bumper cores
Re: Efficiency, Turbos, Heat
Re: 10.46 sec. GN.? Hmmm... (was: 200-4R)
Re: Efficiency, Turbos, Heat
Re: Re[2]: Rejected and Despondent Car Owner (was: Where Olds is
RWD Eldorodo
Re:to ADMIN: Re: email problem
Re: Re:Carb Modifications
Re: RWD Eldorodo
Speedfest 97 March 23! (fwd)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:34:25 -0400
Subject: more Key questions...

With all this talk about lock sets, I was wondering if anyone know what
keeps the ignition key from being pulled out of the ignition when the
car is running.  I ask because I _can_ pull my key out after starting
the car.  It's a great help when I have to move my wife's car out of the
way before pulling mine out.  My original key is getting really worn
(obviously the reason it comes out..) so I am worried about the day that
it finally bends/breaks and I have to  use a new one...so how would I
modify the new one so it is removeable??

Thanks!
- ---Matt
86 442

------------------------------

From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:46:15 -0400
Subject: Re: W30 Thermostat

>Anybody know if the thermostat housing on a 70 W30 is painted or left
>cast?  I have seen done both ways.  My  theory is the engine was
>supposedly painted as a completed unit at the factory.  Thats why the
>distributors had overspray on them.  I cant see a factory worker taping
>off an aluminum intake and spraying the thermostat housing blue.  I think
they >left it cast. > >Mike >66 442 >69 H/O >70 W30 >71 442 Convt


Mike --

The T-stat housing on my W-30 is unpainted.  This car has been in the
family since new and the engine has never been apart.  The strange thing is
the loop on the front of the intake on the driver's side that is used for
lifting the engine  is painted blue!  I wonder if this was painted off of
the engine?

I have owned one other 70 W-30 and this car had a rough life. It had a cast
iron outlet with a steel bypass tube like the later model cars had. I don't
think any '70 cars came this way from the factory.  Did they?  This one
also had a blue loop.

Just my 2 cents

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-spd
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:42:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Interchange Q's

On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, Robert F Turner wrote:

>
> On Wed, 12 Mar 1997 14:49:26 -0400 "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
> writes:
> >I have a few questions for you guys 'n' gals:
> >
> >1) Will a clock out of a '69 Cutlass S fit in my '72 Cutlass Supreme?
> >I have access to a few '68-'69's that are about to be sent to the
> >crusher,
> >and I want to know which parts I can use for my '72...
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >-Blaine
> >'72 Cutlass Supreme
> >
> Blaine; from what I know, which isn't a whole lot, the guages and stuff
> from the 69 will fit, but the outside retaining ring needs to be changed.
>
>
> Katana72
>
>
If you have an extra functioning clock I might be interested.  I have a
'68 olds wagon and can't remember if the clock works.

dcross@selway.edu.com

------------------------------

From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@quix.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:39:48 -0400
Subject: Chrome,polishing, bumper cores

>Thanks to everybody for the many inquiries on chrome done in Mexico.
Hopefully,this post will answer questions you might have. It has always
been my goal to provide good services, at very reasonable pricing. Our work
is done in a one man shop, (a little slower, but less cooks...), therefore,
quality control is easier. Bumpers are first cleaned, dents are taken out,
grinded, and then stripped of all chrome and nickel. They are then polished
to remove scratches, and imperfections. This is probably the most important
step, since any bad imperfections that remain, will show up when it is
plated. Like a good paintjob, surface prep is the key to quality.After the
polishing,and buffing are done the bumper (parts etc.) are sent to a
solution that is energized,to etch the bumper for better adhesion of the
nickel and chrome. Length of time in the nickel tank vary. But no less than
1/2 hour is the norm. The chrome bath is the shortest. with time from 30
seconds, to a minute and a half. After the rinsing, the parts are laid out
for me to check. Only then are they wrapped up. Any thing that looks bad,
is redone again.
            At the present some real nice bumper cores are available as is.
                          nice driver quality with no or very minor small
dings. here is a
partial listing,
1973 cutlass front bumper
1973 delta 88 rear
1977 cutlass front,rear
1978 delta88 front,rear
1979 olds front,rear
1980 98 rear
1967 delta88
Cores are $80.00 each,$190.00 -$220.00 show plated
I have found a wrecking yard with lots of Olds cars, no rust parts,since
our rainfall per year is usually a  1/4 in,. our parts are usually in very
good
shape.

Polishing is also very reasonable with the average price being $30-40.00
for a six foot length of stainless. If very damaged, and serious repairs
are needed, slightly more.
           I hope this wasn't too long and boring. Hope to be of help
sincerely,       mike        619-357-0713
maldana@quix.net
ps. a foundry post to follow soon.

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:01:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Another FAQ

Thanks for the mention David.  It was a lot of work, and I've had to put
off a couple of things that I've been meaning to do, e.g. updates on both
my homepages and the list registry.

I've tried hard to catch all mistakes, but if anybody notices any,
particularly in the numbers sections which I don't really have the
facilities to correct, please e-mail me, and I'll make sure that these
problems are fixed in future versions!

BTW, I'm going to try to talk to some folks and see if I can get the list
some discounts from some of the mail order companies.  On the MML, another
list I'm on, all the members have a 10% discount with Year One.  I'll try
to get the same for the Olds list. I'm not promising anything, and I'll
need names and mailing addresses (can be P.O. Box) for anybody that would
want a discount, but don't everybody flood me with mail yet, I'll put out
a request when the time comes.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Olds FAQ. Editor.   :-)
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

See the Oldsmobil Mailing List FAQ at:

http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
or FTP a "zipped" version from
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.




On Fri, 14 Mar 1997, David Brown wrote:

> Thanks, and a big thank you to Clayton Pierce for the excellent
> proofreading job. It was a lot of work, and he is a full time student, and
> working on top of that.
>
> David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
> ------------
>
> Robert Barry wrote:
> > Thanks a lot, Dave; excellent job!
>
> I agree, kudos to everybody involved!
> It really is a must-have for any Olds enthusiast.
>
> --
> +-----------------------------------+
>
>  Jason Adcock
>  1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
>
>  adcockjk@erols.com
>  http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason
>
> +-----------------------------------+
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:18:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Sway bars

>At 03:10 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:

[SNIP]

>>handling.  I noticed that most other cutlass's have a bar under the rear
>>axle assuming it is a sway bar, and assuming it helps in handling.
>>Wondering why mine does not have it, is it essential, does it help? Another
>
>It keeps the rear end level, and improves cornering. You can install a
>factory bar, or install an aftermarket setup, with matched front and rear
>bars. If you need to replace shocks and springs as well (and the car being
>that old, you likely do), you can replace them with components designed to
>all work together, and get some rather impressive handling out of your car.
>

[SNIP]

>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Good advice (especially the matched components!). Replace the springs,
control arm bushings, and add appropriate shocks first. You may not want
more, but you should not ADD anything until all the original equipment is
working correctly!

How much handling do you want??? If you want to be very aggressive, the
anti-sway bar is the last thing to add. In addition to the above, you could
opt for polygraphite urethane bushings instead of rubber (I used Energy
Suspension) or Delrin bushings, put in air bags (the ones that go in the
springs, not the ones for the dash ;-), and use "good" shocks (KYB, Koni,
etc. Stay away from consumer stuff like Gabriel if you are going the
aggressive route). THEN add the sway bar IF you are getting body roll.

This is some serious work. You will want to have another ride while parts
are being replaced (like the bushings). For the rear-end, all the work is
relatively easy to do (except for replacing the bushings which requires
special tools). The rear end will run about $400 - $500 (US) for all parts
(except way bar) including labor for the bushings. You will get every
pennies worth of handling tho...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:59:20 -0400
Subject: 3/14 Race Car Model Kit For Sale

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to
sell:

1987 Oldsmobile Winston Cup race car plastic model kit.  Monogram
2754 - Hardee's Oldsmobile.  Box opened, but contents still in
factory sealed bag and complete.  $25.00, including shipping to
addresses in the United States. (3/14/97)

Please notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to
purchase this item or it you would like additional information about
it.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:19:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?

At 11:31 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I know of one problem of putting most 455's into later cars, check your
>hood clearances ('80 cutlasses equippped with (yuck) chev's had this
>problem)  Of course , a 1980 cutlass is NOT an olsdmobile, so I don't

??? Oh, of course, it's actually a Pontiac... How could I have been so
ignorant... ;)

>know if that holds for real oldsmobiles (BTW, I don't consider a wimpy
>little car with a chev engine and an oldsmobile sticker an oldsmobile,
>any thoughts on that!)

Right. And my Electra is really an Olds, since it's basically a 403 on a
no-name frame, with a body designed by, and an interior outfitted by, some
people who wanted to hide their true identity behind a "Buick" sticker
(actually, it uses emblems, not stickers...)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:12:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Sway bars

once you drive a car with a sway bar you definatly deem them neccicary

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:18:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Lock Tumblers

>does the stiff lock (tumbler ?) mean I need a new lock set?

Not necessarily. First squirt some oil in the thing. That should get
you some free movement (there's something like 60 degrees of rotation
between hitting the lock and unlock mechanisms in either direction).
If everything gets better, great; you're done.

If it doesn't, the problem is probably in the lock/unlock mechanism
on the top of the latch assembly itself, especially if it's equally
stiff to unlock using the _inside_ lock release. This will respond to
oiling; it's just real tricky to _reach_ it. Depending on the door
design, you might be able to squirt oil upwards through the latch
opening in the end of the door, or down through the gap in the window
glass. In extreme cases (e.g. a Sunbird I had to fix a few weeks ago),
removing the inside door panel was required in order to get a good
blast of oil onto the (almost seized-up) mechanism.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:28:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants

>I am considering replacing the gear oil with a synthetic
>blend. I found this web site:
>http://internetpromotions.com/oil/default.html. Does anyone have any
>experience with or opinions about Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants?

This topic comes up from time to time, synthetic vs. organic; IMHO it's
more important to just be sure the regularly-scheduled maintenance is
done in the first place rather than agonize over whether or not to put
in one type or the other.

But aside from that, Amsoil takes the whole idea one step further and
pitches their stuff in a multi-level marketing format a la Amway. For
example, you have stumbled upon one typical guy who probably attended
a seminar at the local Holiday Inn or got a sales pitch from a friend,
and bought into the deal as an "Independent Amsoil Dealer", and you've
found his own home-baked web page.

If you want the official Amsoil sales pitch and listings of all its other
remedies and nostrums, they're at http://www.amsoil.com

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:40:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Misaligned center console

>      Ok here's what happened: My wife was using my car one day. It seems
>that she could not get the shifter on the center console out of "park"
>(probaly did not use t-handle to release it) anyway her along with two of
>her friends all pulled and forced the shift handle out of park.

Unless this is the very first time she'd ever driven the car, I don't
see how she could have _not_ used the T-handle to release it... let
alone manage to find two friends, neither of whom would have suggested
that either? Okay, moving on...

>The result
>is that Reverse is indicated by the letter "N", neutral is now the "D",
>drive is now "L" and so on down the line. What do I do to fix this. Car is
>safe to drive but problem is annoying.
>
>Aaron D Eoff
>77 Olds Cutlass

Are you talking about the indicator on the dash, in the instrument cluster?
If that is now off, the only thing I can think of is that all the pulling
has either bent the linkage or (hopefully) just slid the adjustment point
where the trans linkage meets up with the steering column linkage under
the car; there's a kind of sliding-clamp-with-a-bolt setup for fine-tuning
so you can calibrate the neutral-start switch and backup lamps. Do the
backup lamps still work? Can you start the car in Neutral?

If everything else is still fine, find the spring clip at around the
4-o'clock position on the steering column collar just behind the dash.
The string attached to it is what moves the PRNDL pointer in the dash.
Moving the position of the clip on the collar will enable you to adjust
the pointer until it's showing the right gear.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:01:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants

I'm running their 80-90w in my open carrier. I picked up 2 mpg by changing
it (no I'm not kidding), but I think most of the gain was from getting rid
of the old stuff - ~130,000 miles on it. Drive train is less stiff on those
cold winter mornings.

I have read that some manufacturers recommend against using synthetic gear
oil in their anti-spin diffs.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

In early April, I will be changing my ring gear and pinion and installing a
anti-spin carrier. I am considering replacing the gear oil with a synthetic
blend. I found this web site:
http://internetpromotions.com/oil/default.html. Does anyone have any
experience with or opinions about Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

John
+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:49:26 -0400
Subject: A couple longer questions

First of all Great Mailing list, love it.

Second, to introduce myself: Eric Aksomitis, 3rd year CS student/
University of Regina (long time oldsmobile collector).

Now, the questions:

1: 1969 Oldsmobile 98
	I bought me one of these a while back (Factory oil, it had, I
think) which made it all the home, got an oil change, and 20 more miles
(oil was like tar at that time).  This was no big deal, since I paid
almost nothing for it.  But I would like to know:
	I have been told that the rearend in some 68-69 old's is
reasonably valuable, due to the fact that it can be easierly put into a
chev 1/2 ton (I have also been told that they made 200mpg cars that the
oil companies bought and are hiding from us, so I tend to be skeptical).
Is there any/all truth to this (If there is, I'd like to make an olds 1/2
ton).

2: 1975 Cutlass Supreme
	I've had and kept this car in pretty good shape for a while.
This april it's scheduled to recieve a 1975 Olds 98 455 motor, and I was
wondering about heads/exhaust manifolds:
	I was going to try a trick I've heard of where you paint the side
of the head, match the manifold against it, then grind away any
discrepencies between the two parts for complete flow.  I'm not an
incredible performance man, but this seems like a cheap way to fully
utilize my motor without majour $ or majour unreliability (my favourite
oldsmobile quality).  If anyone could point me to some good info on this
(possibly from experience), I would be most appreciated.

Thanx for any/all help




EA




.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:57:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Replacement...

     Yes, it's a 5/8" nut, and you do need a special wrench that grips more
     than 2 surfaces.  It's called a flare-nut wrench, and I bought a set
     just for this purpose (but they're handy for lots of other things,
     like removing tranny cooler lines, power steering hoses, brake lines,
     etc.).  A set is a good investment, I'd buy some before you bugger up
     that soft nut any more.  You can find them at any auto or tool store.
     I've seen them from $10/set for the cheapies, to $20/set for a Sears
     Craftsman set.

     Remember that you'll have to have a big wrench to hold the end of the
     fuel filter housing that goes into the carb.  You need to hold it
     still while you loosen that nut.  I don't know what size it is, I just
     use a monster crescent wrench that I have.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Fuel Filter Replacement... Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/14/97 9:07 AM


Last weekend I tried to replace the fuel filter on my '86 442 / VIN 9
307...unfortunately the fuel line nut is frozen in there pretty good. My
5/8" box wrench (I think it was 5/8's...) didn't seem to fit the nut to
well...is this a metric nut??  Or do I need a special wrench that grips
more than two surfaces??
Thanks!

- ---Matt
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com
'86 442




------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:35:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Well wishes

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
>
> Actually it's almost just as well since it seems a bunch of AOL accounts
> have gone south today. Never seen so many bounced messages and I've had
> to unsub several members who are/were on AOL.
>
> Greg Beaulieu

Greg,

Now there are AOLs in the South.  I've got my hands full w/Yankees, GN
head gaskets, Chevy parts, etc., etc.  I don't think that I have time
for them now.  Thanks for the warning though.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 15:57:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Another FAQ

This HTML FAQ is a wonderful thing. Having downloaded it I now have
available to me on my PC an indexed version of a massive document that
contains a wealth of knowledge about Oldsmobiles. It probably answers
about 30% of the questions that people ask here. I strongly recommend you
take advantage of it!!

Great thanks to David, Clayton and everyone else involved in doing this.

I wonder... do other mail lists have anything of this quality? I smell a
JWO article on the subject starting to brew... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:04:14 -0400
Subject: Junkyard Idiots!

I am having the shittiest week, so please allow me to vent...

Last weekend, I discovered a treasure in a little known junkyard in
Southern Nevada.  I found a '68 442, buckets, console, rear cutout bumper,
louvered hood.  The rear axle was missing, but other than that, it was
mostly all there.  I drove there in a car, so I didn't have any room for
the big stuff.  I talked to the owner of the yard and expressed an extreme
interest in that car, and any other Oldsmobiles he might come across.  So
today I called back to see if I could buy the rest of the car.  But I was
too late...  It had already been crushed!!!  I am so freakin' pissed!  That
car had a perfect front end!  Grilles unbroken, perfect chrome, totally
*perfect*, rust free, ding free fenders and hood.  Everything on this car
was PERFECT!  And that dumbass crushed it!  I can't believe this!  And on
top of that, the console/shifter I was going to get has already been
taken/broken!    I'm so frustrated right now that I... well I just want to
cry.  I've been searching for so many years for oportunities like this, and
I finally get one and the bastards have to crush it...

Sorry for wasting bandwidth with my rantings.  I'm sure most of you have
probably felt the same way at one time or another in the quest for those
elusive parts...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:27:17 -0400
Subject: Answering My Own Question

After the debate I sparked here earlier this week on whether or not you
could order a cutout rear bumper on a '68 Cutlass, I'm embarassed to
admit that the answer was in my hands all along. I just didn't know I had
it. From the "1961-69 Cutlass - F85 - 4-4-2 Book of Information", a
series of reprints of factory literature, comes this little note buried
under "appearance options":

"Full dual exhaust system, with outlets cut out of rear bumper, provides
a further refinement of the sporty image of the Cutlass Coupes and
Convertible. Standard on 4-4-2 (N10)"

So there you go, you could order it. I guess I should learn to read my
own books first. D'oh!  :)


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:28:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots!

Hi Blaine,

Where would you like the missile to be dropped? ;-)  Are you sure it
wasn't intentional on the junker's part?  I would think if you expressed
a desire in the car, he would have kept it around.  How stupid can
people be.

Don't worry about the bandwidth...

Chris Sparks
68 442 (She is sad/mad that her sister was crushed)

------------------------------

From: "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:32:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Interchange Q's

Well, I would have.  But thanks to the people referenced in my previous
post, I don't have squat...

- ----------
> From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
> If you have an extra functioning clock I might be interested.  I have a
> '68 olds wagon and can't remember if the clock works.
>
> dcross@selway.edu.com
>
>

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:37:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants

At 02:01 PM 3/14/97 -0400, David Brown wrote:

>
>I have read that some manufacturers recommend against using synthetic gear
>oil in their anti-spin diffs.

I know that GM frowns upon fluids that aren't approved by them. A buddy of
mine had the rear in his 4th gen  Z/28 go out and the dealer refused to
replace it under warranty because he was running Mobil 1 synthetic in the
rear. The reason the rear failed had nothing to do with the oil. I know many
people running synthetic (mainly Mobil 1 and Redline ) with no problems in
the rear differentials after many miles. Myself I have noticed a ~1 to 2 mpg
increase in MPG since switching to Redline. Just this afternoon I got my
regular checkup and switched to Mobil 1 so I will see if the increase in MPG
holds true.
I was going to switch to synthetic gear oil in my 80 442 but realized I
don't drive it enough to justify the cost.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..soon to be a born again junkyard car.

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:52:19 -0400
Subject: Re: A couple longer questions

>First of all Great Mailing list, love it.

[SNIP]

>2: 1975 Cutlass Supreme
>        I've had and kept this car in pretty good shape for a while.
>This april it's scheduled to recieve a 1975 Olds 98 455 motor, and I was
>wondering about heads/exhaust manifolds:
>        I was going to try a trick I've heard of where you paint the side
>of the head, match the manifold against it, then grind away any
>discrepencies between the two parts for complete flow.  I'm not an
>incredible performance man, but this seems like a cheap way to fully
>utilize my motor without majour $ or majour unreliability (my favourite
>oldsmobile quality).  If anyone could point me to some good info on this
>(possibly from experience), I would be most appreciated.
>
>Thanx for any/all help

Another way is to buy a new gasket and use it as a template...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:04:24 -0400
Subject: Re: '77 Olds 442

Chris Kugler wrote:
>
> My '77 442 is in mint condition with only around 40,000 miles on it.  >If
there were only 350 made and I got mine for around $7000 did I get a >really
good deal? >

To me, a car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.  What
helps is a low production model with low miliage too.  An unrestored car
like yours, I wouldn't say you got burned at all.  If you're happy with
the price and you love the car, that's what matters.  If your a
collector (looking for a return) the story changes and opinions of
others matter.

Does yours have a 403ci?  Heres what I found out from Helen Early, OCA
member and Oldsmobile Museum Associate:
'77 Cutlass S = 70,155 total
'77 442 = ? (350ci standard)
'77 442 W29 = 350 produced w/403ci

Also the 403 block differs from 78&79.  77's were casted a little
different.  The 77 442 included a stripe kit, handling package, a
different snout (nose), different header panel, and the black trim on
the bumpers had no white stripe.  Other list members may be able to add
to this.  Hope this secures your purchase.

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club #254	64 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas			69 442
OCA #021151			74 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:15:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots!

blaines wrote:
>   I drove there in a car, so I didn't have any room for
> the big stuff.

  It had already been crushed!!!   I'm sure most of you have
> probably felt the same way at one time or another in the quest for those
> elusive parts...
>

What I do is pay for all the parts, or the whole car and make
arrangements to pick them up later.  What luck to run into such a find,
but sh*t happens!

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club #254	64 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas			69 442
OCA #021151			74 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:57:25 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

The following is a list of Olds parts for sale.

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
Grille Assm     $75.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $75.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr

67 Cutlass/442
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 Front Hood Molding (small scratch, no pitts)  $15.00
68-69 Left Quarter Panel (whole thing to roof, no rust w/inner wheelwell)
$325.00
68 442 Hood Louver Set $50.00 set (3)
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
Trunk Chrome Molding   $50.00 set
Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors   $50.00 pr
Hood Tongue   $15.00
Hood Hinges   $20.00 pr
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $75.00
Black Inner Fenders    $80.00 pr

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
70-72 Factory 8-track (black, works) $145.00
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $50.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $40.00 pr
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
Hood Hinges  $20.00 pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
Rear Upper Control Arms   $50.00 pr
455 Distributor #1111978 (2nd design)   $25.00
455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
(Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
70 AM/FM Mono w/amp $85.00
70-72 Power Disc Brake Booster w/ master cyl. $75.00 as is
($135.00 rebuilt & detailed)
70-72 Bumper Bracket Sets $40.00 set

72 Cutlass/442
New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  (around radio area)  $20.00
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
Boxed Lower Control Arms  $60.00 pr
Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00ea
Edelbrock Performer 350 Intake (fits all small block except 260 )  $100.00

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set

**** New stuff to list****
(4) 66-69 SSI (all chrome) 14x6 Wheels w/thin pinstripe whitewall tires
$300.00 set
68-69 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings (set of 4) MINT $200.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $225.00
68 442 Cutout Rear Bumper core $135.00
65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $550.00
71-7? 10 Bolt 2.73:1 Open Rear End  $125.00
71-7? 10 Bolt 2.73:1  Anti-Spin Rear End   $350.00
Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea
T-3 Headlight Sets $30.00 set (nice working used)
14x7 SSII Wheel Set (4) (bolt on cap) $200.00 set
14x6 SSIII Wheels (newer snap on cap)  $25.00 ea


P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming! The first reproduction
of the
70-72 Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicator is in. Looks Great. $24.00 ea
new.
Let us know if your interested.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 19:09:00 -0400
Subject: Re:(2) Distributor curves

R. Barry wrote:
> Whether an engine will ping at a certain amount of advance, or
>whether its performance will improve or diminish (optimum timing isn't
>*always* the MOST timing you can run, though it often is), can only be
>determined by trial and error, whereas a distributor machine can only
>establish that the distributor is providing a specified amount of advance
>at a specified RPM.

You hit the nail right on the head.  The very fact that it takes many,
many hours of repetitive work is exactly why very few people "science
out" their distributor Taking off the cap and rotor 10 or 12 times on a
Saturday to try yet another spring combo is not really thrilling, and
the total number of combinations of weights, springs and cams can be
frustrating.  It is much easier to pick up the Summit catalog and buy
the latest aftermarket ignition wonder part or take the distributor in
to a shop and have the "stock" curve set.

>So, do it yourself, use trial and error, and spend the money you saved on
>having the distributor "professionally recurved" on a more helpful
>modification (like converting to HEI...).

Right on, Bob.  IMHO, the person who spends the most time tuning will
beat the person who spent the most money every time!  To butcher a great
quote from Gen. MacArthur, "There is no substitute for spending time
under the hood".

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 19:29:37 -0400
Subject: olds classified ads

There doesn't seem to be much else going on, so I thought I'd post some
ads out of the local paper...

These are all in TN - 423; VA - 540; or NC - 704

'62 Starfire $300 423-288-9133

'67 Cutlass S 455 needs work $550 obo 423-246-4113

'68 Olds 6 cyl. 83k new carb/mast cyl. centerline whls. $1600 423-474-2696

'71 442 built 455 (2) NOS, tilt frontend, $6500 obo 423-878-5227

'72 Cutlass Supreme 87k new paint, BFG tires, $4000 obo 423-246-4113

'72 Cutlass S 350, all options 100k, $1150 obo, 423-246-4113

'79 Cutlass Supreme black on black, 2 dr. new tires/exhaust, $1650,
partial trade, obo 704-733-5437

'79 Cutlass Supreme 2 dr. V6, ps, pb, $700 540-466-8337

'80 Cutlass Supreme diesel 350, needs inj. pump work, extra trans, eng.
parts, good body $500, 540-926-6908

I REFUSE TO LIST THE OMEGA'S :-)

'82 4 dr. needs eng. repair, solid, $300 540-738-8227

'82 Tornado (sic) good eng. and trans. car needs work $750 540-466-6365

'84 H/O shifters, JVC stereo, $3975, 423-246-4113 (after 5:30 pm ET)
(this guy's got a bunch doesn't he!)


That's all I got time for now, there were also verious plain jane Cutlii
(Cutlasses) pretty cheap, but I gotta' go now.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 19:44:01 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?

Eric wrote:
>
> I know of one problem of putting most 455's into later cars, check your
> hood clearances ('80 cutlasses equippped with (yuck) chev's had this
> problem)  Of course , a 1980 cutlass is NOT an olsdmobile, so I don't
> know if that holds for real oldsmobiles (BTW, I don't consider a wimpy
> little car with a chev engine and an oldsmobile sticker an oldsmobile,
> any thoughts on that!)
>
> EA

Excuse me, but you've just insulted a significant number of the 80's
Cutlass owners that are on this list (most of them being Olds
powered)...
I would say most of the members would disagree with you and say that a
1980 Cutlass IS an Oldsmobile (gee, maybe cuz the sticker says it, duh).

You appear to be new to the list (I could be wrong)...  Most of us
respect what others own and don't try to antagonize each other.  Some
things are better left unsaid.

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 20:20:04 -0400
Subject: Re: A couple longer questions

At 01:49 PM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>1: 1969 Oldsmobile 98
[snip]
>	I have been told that the rearend in some 68-69 old's is
>reasonably valuable, due to the fact that it can be easierly put into a
>chev 1/2 ton (I have also been told that they made 200mpg cars that the

Than what, putting in a Datsun B210 rear axle? I'd imagine the most
plentiful axle, and the easiest to find, and the cheapest, and the
best-fitting, would be the axle from a chev 1/2 ton with a wrecked front
end. I'd be more than skeptical about this claim; the Olds rears usually had
highway gears (2.56-2.93 were the usual ratios), so they wouldn't be
well-suited to hauling stuff in the back of your pickup! Besides, it would
be a pain to weld on the proper leaf-spring brackets, in place of the
big-car's coil spring/four-link rear axle.

No, the rear axle might be worth $100, for someone who is looking for one.
Beyond that, it's only worth its weight in scrap iron.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 20:34:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Sedan Delivery??

In a message dated 97-03-13 09:23:33 EST, you write:

>  Did Olds make a
>  sedan delivery in the early 50s?  If so, how rare is it?

No.  Only Chevrolet and Pontiac made sedan deliveries in the early 50's.  But
I have seen at least one (at Hershey) that's been created.  Also saw a '54
pickup at Hershey.

Paul

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:26:44 -0400
Subject: Catalytic convertor in 81 307

Would anybody know if and how much improvment can be made in terms of power
and/or fuel economy by by-passing a catalytic convertor in a 1981 Delta 88,
307, 5.0. (I know that it is illegal in most states and provinces but it
was already by-passed when I bought it.)

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:08:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?

>Eric wrote:
>>
>> I know of one problem of putting most 455's into later cars, check your
>> hood clearances ('80 cutlasses equippped with (yuck) chev's had this
>> problem)  Of course , a 1980 cutlass is NOT an olsdmobile, so I don't
>> know if that holds for real oldsmobiles (BTW, I don't consider a wimpy
>> little car with a chev engine and an oldsmobile sticker an oldsmobile,
>> any thoughts on that!)

Yeah I agree. My 80 442 is just another piece of crap, although it is
powered by the original Olds 350 .....whatever:/   Why wouldn't an
Oldsmobile with a 305 chevy not be an Olds? Hell my 79 Cutlass with a 305
Chevy had more power and pickup than my 80 442 that is Olds 350 powered. On
no, here we go again bashing Chevy....;) :)
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........not a real car since it is a Chevy.....
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30.. No longer a real Olds
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..I am not sure about this one....

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:12:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Catalytic convertor in 81 307

At 09:26 PM 3/14/97 -0400, IT wrote:
>Would anybody know if and how much improvment can be made in terms of power
>and/or fuel economy by by-passing a catalytic convertor in a 1981 Delta 88,
>307, 5.0. (I know that it is illegal in most states and provinces but it
>was already by-passed when I bought it.)

Well with the early pellet type convertors HP gains of ~8 to 16 are likely
from what I have read.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:02:44 -0400
Subject: Model Survey

Olds List Members:

Back before Xmas, I think there was some talk (I know there was on the Toro
list) about a survey about what models we'd like to see produced... Well, look
 what I got the other day!

I sent it back suggesting a kit that could be built as either a '70 442 or
Cutlass Supreme convertible, with a ram-air hood and pace car decals... second
 choice was one that could be built as either a '66 or '67 Toronado.  Here it
is, fill it out and send it in!  If you do so, please delete this part, of
course! I'm not on the list, so if you have any comments, please cc me at
the address just below!

Regards,

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

Dear FineScale Modeler survey volunteer,

   My sincere thanks for volunteering to answer questions about the scale
modeling hobby, scale modeling projects, and our magazine. I've got some
questions on my mind that you can help me with, so here goes.

   (We haven't figured out a truly slick way to conduct these surveys yet,
so the best way to reply is to splice your thoughts into a copy of the
survey questions, if your mailer allows that. Otherwise, just type "1" or
"2" and so forth, and I'll match up your responses with the questions.)


   1. What ONE kit would you most like to see produced? Please tell me
scale, subject, and why.


   2. What's the most recent kit you bought? How soon will you build it?


   3. What model are you working on now? Scale, subject, and kit (if
applicable).


   4. What aspect of modeling gives you the most trouble?


BACKGROUND:  We're working on a new special annual publication for
introduction in fall 1997. For those of you who remember "Modeling the
Second World War," it will be the same size and shape as that, but the
focus will be on showcasing great models, using feature presentations
similar to "Showcase," "Portfolio," and "Reader Gallery" in FSM.

   5. What suggestions do you have for what we should have in this new
publication? What would be most valuable to you? Got any ideas for a name?


   6. What is the single most important service that FineScale Modeler
magazine can provide to help you enjoy the scale modeling hobby?


   7. What one feature would be the most valuable addition we could make to
FSM's Home Page on the World Wide Web? (That's our Internet site -- and
it's OK to say you've never visited it, or don't care.)


   That's it (hey Bob, that's a LOT!), and thank you again. Transmit your
response to     rhayden@finescale.com     -- and you can rest assured that
I'll stay up late or come in early to read your responses and suggestions.

   Now turn off that computer and BUILD something!

   Sincerely yours, Bob

Bob Hayden                      FineScale Modeler magazine
rhayden@kalmbach.com            21027 Crossroads Circle
(414)-796-8776                  P.O. Box 1612
(414)-796-1383 (fax)            Waukesha, WI 53187

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:07:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Sway bars

Greg Sage wrote:
>Along the bottom of the doors it is rusting out bad.  Holes are
>forming.  Should I....#1 replace doors...#2 bondo....#3 cut it out and >weld
new peices(pain in the butt)....#4 heard of "slips" you can put

Greg:

I don't know what "slips" are...I'd guess they are inserts to help keep
the bottom of the door solid (after the rest has rusted away).  I
wouldn't do bondo, unless it would be a temporary fix for the better
option: new doors (you can really tell when a car has been bondoed).

- --

+-----------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

 adcockjk@erols.com
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

+-----------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:17:53 -0400
Subject: Re: BEWARE POTENTIAL BUYERS

>
> This is what really amazes that a company would sell a part and making
> it different from the original.  What good is replacing an old worn
> out part with a non-original replacement!  What are they thinking about?

Two words: counterfeit. Some pieces if made exactly as originals could
be used to build counterfeit cars. I know someone who could build a #s
matching W-30 that would fool almost anyone and certainly me. If exact
copies were avaiable for those items that make cars special that would
make those cars a little less special. IMHO.

Danny

>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442

------------------------------

From: FBrussee@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:23:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Model Survey

1.  70-72 cutlass conv. with attachable hardtop (ie, a two in one)    2. 69
Camaro indy pace car  (this is the one I'm working on now)  3. see above,
1/25.  4. bare metal foil and parts that dont fit where they're supposed to.
 5.  Free premiere issue to maximize initial exposure.  LOTS of detailed tech
articles,  features on resin kits.  6.  local show and swap support and
promotion.  Never been there-yet.

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:42:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots!

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Hi Blaine,
>
> Where would you like the missile to be dropped? ;-)  Are you sure it
> wasn't intentional on the junker's part?  I would think if you expressed
> a desire in the car, he would have kept it around.  How stupid can
> people be.
>
> Don't worry about the bandwidth...
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442 (She is sad/mad that her sister was crushed)

I witnessed a junkyard owner turn down $200 for a car that he later
crushed for fifty bucks. So nothing suprises me.

Danny

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 00:49:17 -0400
Subject: Junkyard Idiots

Have just read the several posts on the crushing of older Oldsmobiles.

  I was in Kansas recently at Halls Auto Salvage in Soldier Kansas.

  I bought two trailer loads of NOS PARTS. mostly Olds but a lot of "other
brands"

but while I was there I got to where Oldsmobiles go when they die. He has
over 3000 Oldsmobiles fron 1935 - 1986-86. Well since I bought his NOS he
felt it was time to  "get out of the business"
  Well he is closing April 1st. He has contracted a guy to come in and crush
yes crush all those Oldsmobiles. Thousands of good usable parts gone for
good. I wish I had the ability to buy these but no way.
  Is there anybody who could or know somebody that might be interested before
the ball falls. There are 200 acres of clean land with around 3000
Oldsmobiles plus at least 2000 "other" cars.
   Or if you need something call before its too late.

    Halls Auto Salvage, Soldier Kansas.
    1-913-924-3748
     1-913-924-3315

BEFORE ITS TO THE CRUSHER

Everett Horton  OCA# 1961

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 00:52:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Chrome,polishing, bumper cores

We So Cal Olds fans are looking for decent junkyards with mid-60 - early
- -70 Olds parts.  Would you share your info?  I had a suggestion of one down
in San Diego, have you heard of any decent one's in that area?  We would
like to find a few decent target junkyards and go sometime soon.

Any assistance is appreciated.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:13:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Efficiency, Turbos, Heat

In a message dated 97-03-13 03:17:58 EST, you write:

<< > HP is required to get the car MOVING to that speed.

 And HP is required to maintain the car at that speed. >>

If you don't have enough HP to get it up to that speed, you'll never have
enough when there.  It's a given that you have the HP to maintain speed, by
virtue of the fact that you are there in the first place (barring being
"pushed" up to speed).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:13:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 10.46 sec. GN.? Hmmm... (was: 200-4R)

In a message dated 97-03-13 19:30:46 EST, you write:

<< To get 10 sec. performance out of the car, the turbo boost was
 set to nearly 30 psi.!!!  BTW-  When the engine blew, it was a head gasket
 that finally went south.  Go figure.


 Kevin Hoopingarner
 70 442 W-30
 Findlay Oh. >>

Yeah, imagine that......  I was about to b*llsh*t if you continued to say it
was stock.  There had to be something going on.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:13:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Efficiency, Turbos, Heat

In a message dated 97-03-13 03:17:58 EST, you write:

<< > 1) The supercharger is parasitic from the drive mechanism (belt/pulley,
etc.)
 > 2) The turbo does not heat the air as much, which allows for a denser
mixture.

 It is easy to picture the situation in (1) where there is a drive belt,
 but I feel that the input to the turbocharger is also linked to the
 crankshaft: ignition -> rapidly expanding gases -> crankshaft rotates ->
 exhaust gases forced out -> backpressure -> turbo spins.  In (2), I would
 think that the path of incoming air would be exposed to a higher amount
 of heat in the case of a turbocharged engine?>>

The turbo is indirectly linked to the crankshaft, in a manner not a parasitic
as the direct drive belt machanism.  I'm not altogether sure on the hows, and
whys of the heat change, but possibly the higher heat in a supercharger is
due ot being closer to the intake, and not having a chance to cool in the
"routing" to the intake as a turbo would?  I dunno on this one.  Another
theory would be that the supercharger generates more pressure (and with
pressure increase, comes heat induced into the mixture), and since the turbo
has lower pressures, there is less heat created.

 > >> The turbocan't directly increase your engine's thermal efficiency
 > >> (percentage of potential heat energy in the fuel converted to work at
 > >> the crank), but it uses the wasted energy to greatly increase
volumetric

 > it DOESN'T increase thermal efficiency (still lose heat through the
 > exhaust process), but it does increase VOLUMETRIC efficiency.

 To me, their remark is contradictory.  The article states that the thermal
 efficiency doesn't change, but that wasted energy is used.  I find their
 crankshaft work argument is concerned with only half of the
 story.  If wasted (not used to drive the crankshaft) heat is indeed used
 to facilitate the introduction of air into the engine, then this will reduce

 pumping losses which will affect an engine's thermal efficiency!  My
 contention is that if 'wasted' energy is used at any level, it should
 have an impact on the total thermodynamic picture in some way.  If wasted
 heat is not harnessed, hence throwing their free-lunch reasoning out the
 window, then isn't exhaust backpressure the 'drive belt' for the
turbocharger?
  Kevin Wong >>

Thermal efficiency wouldn't change.  You still lose heat energy out the
exhaust (ok, it maybe does change, but not in any quantity, just small
amounts, hence, it really doesn't change).  The turbo doesn't help reduce the
amount of energy going out the exhaust (how can it?), except in the simple
transfer of heat to larger mass of parts, but at that point, the energy is
already gone.  It doesn slow the exhaust a bit I'm sure, but same thing
applies, already gone out the pipe, besides, I'm sure it doesn't take much to
spin the blades of a turbo (remember, they are spun at up to 100,000 RPM, so
if there was any resistance.....).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:13:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Rejected and Despondent Car Owner (was: Where Olds is

In a message dated 97-03-13 09:30:55 EST, you write:

<< (dream stage sequence where you pan into an office, with a Dilbertesque
feeling
 in the air....<snip>...Now lets tell them that the new "in" colors that
people
 are buying are say.....   hot pink, and neon green..... heheheheh...)

      Don't lose sight of the fact that flourescent green was the number one
      selling color in 1970, apparently due to all those Challengers and
      Road Runners.  BTW, I still maintain that the E-body Cuda/Challenger
      is the only car that looks good in purple.

      Joe (I'm baaaaaaack) Padavano >>

Those colors were to be on the same vehicle, sorry 'bout
that.....<yechhh!...>

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:22:32 -0400
Subject: RWD Eldorodo

<< Speaking of rear wheel drive, a couple weeks ago in Autoweek, they
mentioned
 that the redesigned Eldorodo may be a rwd car.  They quoted the GM of
Cadillac
 as saying that the packaging style they were looking for dictated rwd.  If
 they go to rwd, it may push back the redesigned car a year or two, to around
 the year 2000.

	Would that make it the first rear wheel drive Eldorado in
	30 or so odd years?  Maybe this time around Olds can learn
	something from Cadillac, and come out with a rwd Toronado.

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\ (810)
825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/ Sterling Hts.,
MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:22:55 -0400
Subject: Re:to ADMIN: Re: email problem

I was going to send this discreetly, but there is the possibility that others
may benefit.

 Greg,

I can not express how much I enjoy this mail server. I am greatly beholden
primarily to yourself and any others responsible who escape my notice. My
Oldsmobile knowledge has increased tenfold over perhaps four months. In
particular I am impressed with your seemingly tireless efforts (I am sure you
percieve it differenly) to shield this haven from various net difficulties.

I have not experienced blank messages as Mr. Polesnak has reported (in a loud
letter). The only duplicate messages I recieve are sent by me. The only
curious quirk(?) that I have noticed is that often it takes a -long- time for
the duplicates of my messages to reach me. I assume that this is due to AOL
(sp; should be aol) congestion. Another curious thing is that often I will
receive the response to an Email query before I recieve the original query.

Overall, no complaints here. Keep up the awe-inspiring work!

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Duct tape uber alles.

                         -'cause its stuck to the ceiling, silly.

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:31:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Carb Modifications

In a message dated 97-03-13 15:17:47 EST, you write:

<< I put a
 2-1/2 inch exhaust system on it with a Flowmaster muffler (no headder at the
 time), rejetted the carbureter, converted the carbureter EGR adapter to an
 open plenum, and recurved the distributor so that my timing was 16 degrees
 initial and 36 degrees total timing and with vacuum total timing is 45
 degrees.
Snip!
   Anyway after all of those simple modifications....
Snip!
                                     J2RKT@aol.com
  >>

Gee, sounds easy. I'll bet you could do wonders if you actually broke a
sweat!

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

"There [is] more [duct tape] in Heaven and Earth than are dreamed of in your
              philosophy, Horatio."    Hamlet - W. Shakespeare (sp)(?)(!)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:34:18 -0400
Subject: Re: RWD Eldorodo

>	Would that make it the first rear wheel drive Eldorado in
>	30 or so odd years?  Maybe this time around Olds can learn
>	something from Cadillac, and come out with a rwd Toronado.
>
>Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible

<grrrrr>

Sorry, Bob, that would be the ultimate Toro sacrilidge (well, I suppose
dropping the Toronado *entirely* might qualify...).

Just think how _you'd_ feel, if Olds went and changed *your* beloved 98 line
over to FWD, or dropped it altogether!

Oh, wait...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc.seflin.org>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:46:12 -0400
Subject: Speedfest 97 March 23! (fwd)

Please forward!
Free admission. Homestead Fl Motorsports Complex
If you are in South Florida for spring break join us!

Olds Club of Florida South Florida Coordinator


Dennis Jon Sytsma

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

or you can cc a copy to my full internet account at

sytsma@gzinc.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:05:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc>
To: robert-h frisch <rhfjr@aol.com>
Cc: Scott/Sara Panacek <scott_442@msn.com>
Subject: test message & misc

Hello Mr frisch;

This is a test message.   Please reply to confirm good communications.

If you have internet access please visit

http://www.missingkids.org

click on the "how I can help" icon

Print out the information sheet and give to anyone with a internet web
site who wants to help find missing kids.  Anyone can help participate in
the national center for missing and exploited children's (NCMEC) weblinks
project.  If you do not have internet access, many local libray's now
have free "internet kiosk's" to do research on the web.

So anyone can help even if you do not have a computer.

Please tell everyone about the March 23, 1997 "Speedfest 97" event at
Homestead Motorsports Complex.  Admission is free.  Costs $20.00 to enter
your show car for trophies and judging.  Celeberity's will be there!
Water show on lake, Food Court, Carnival, more!

Contact Ray Shantz at 305-245-2211 of Community Bank of Homestead for
more information or call me at 305-246-1659 and I will fax you the
information sheet.

Please forward this e mail to other OCF/OCA members!

Please tell OCF members to e mail me!  I will complile a list of e mail
for OCF members.

Any questions please call or e mail!

305-246-1659 voice

Thanks


Dennis Jon Sytsma

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

or you can cc a copy to my full internet account at

sytsma@gzinc.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #561
********************************
