To:	Jeffrey A Easton/ADD_LAKE_HUB/ADD_HUB/ADD/US
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #533


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, 24 February 1997      Volume 01 : Number 533

Re:
Re: 307 problem history
Re: 307 problem history
Re: 71 442 Questions
Re: M-21 Troubles
Re: (no subject)
Re: Olds vs. Chevy
Re: Olds vs. Chevy
Re: M-21 Troubles
Re: '85 Ciera - Parts
Re: 80 Cutlass grille
Repaired antenna..........not!
67 W-30 Heads / Exhaust Manifolds
Re: 307 problem history
Re: Transmission Shavings
Re: Leaking Lena
Calais steering
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: 307 problem history
Re: 307 problem history
Re: RadioShack equipment...
Re: Leaking Lena
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: M-21 Troubles
Re: '55 Olds steering noise
Re: 1984 Hurst/Olds repair Suggestions
Re: M-21 Troubles
Rebuilding
Removing door inside handles / water inside door
RE: Rocket 88 Song
Re: more 307
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: Whats in a name??  was Re: 442
Re: 67' 4-4-2 convertible $$$...
Noise during turning...
Re: Calais steering
Re[2]: Remaking Olds engines
Re: Rebuilding
Re: Olds 403
Re: 76 Cutlass S Dakotan
2-doors vs. 4? (Was Re: 80 Cutlass grille)
Re: more 307
Re: Re[2]: Remaking Olds engines:again
Re: Parts for sale -Reply
Re: Water Wetter
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: more 307
Re: 307 problem history
Re: Exhaust System
Re: Fuel Injection
56 Oldsmobiles
Painting SSI wheels
window motor

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:07:44 -0400
Subject: Re:

At 04:42 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 55 Olds 98 and wheniturn rather sharply to the left, I get a
>grinding noise.  there is no steering difficulty, just the noise.  Can you
>help?
>
>
>
No. 1: is the tire rubbing somewhere?

No. 2: if it is not rubbing noise, is it power steering related.  Older
(pre-'68 or so) power steering pumps will lock up at end of travel, and
cause a belt noise.

No. 2a: if it is related to No. 2, it should happen both left and right at
end of travel.

This is just two of many possiblities.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:12:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

At 05:54 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Todd, its an 87 307Y in an 87 Pontiac Wagon.  SRB442 thinks I may have out of
 >round cylinders from a bad job at the factory.  It started with a qt/1000
at >36000 mi and is now a qt/400 as of 46000 mi.  I've heard of this (oil
>consumption) before on another 87 and tend to believe SRB442.  I further
think >that the catalyst & the A.I.R. is controlling the smoke with the only
noticeable >side effect is the soot on the bumper. > > Oily soot or very dry
soot, and remember that carbon is a fairly good lubricant.  So maybe this
question should be oily slipery soot, or non-oily slipery soot.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:28:09 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

At 07:20 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>You are correct in thinking oil can be burnt without any smoke. I have a
>heater in my shop that burns motor oil and once it is at operating temp
>there is nothing comeing from the chimney but heat waves.
>
>----------
>> From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: 307 problem history
>> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 3:54 PM
>>
>> .  I further think
>> that the catalyst & the A.I.R. is controlling the smoke with the only
>noticeable
>> side effect is the soot on the bumper.
>>
>
>
I believe, to paraphrase an expression of last week, you are comparing
pineapples and oranges.  In an engine, motor oil added to the fuel air mix,
tends to exit the engine as bluish smoke.  There is a very fine line of
tolerance to the proportions of the fuel air mix.  When motor oil is added
to the fuel air mix, it has no excess air to make it burn, the gasoline
consumed the air in the charge.  Also, motor oil is usually not sufficiently
gassified to burn anyway.

The fact that an 'oil burner' can handle motor oil, which operates under
ideal conditions to completely consume the oil, is nothing like what is
happening inside a gasoline engine that has oil added to the fuel air mix.
The oil burner, atomizes the motor oil, and then adds sufficient air to give
complete combustion.

If the motor oil WAS completely consumed in the combustion chamber of a
gasoline engine, there would nothing but the clear elements in its exhast
too, but that is not typically the case.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:31:43 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 442 Questions

At 08:07 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>My e-mail (Eudora lite) stopped working and I had to download a new
>version. I thought the new version would install over the old one, but it
>didn't. I lost all the messages that pertained to the few things that I
>want to do to my car. I'm sorry to say that I'm going have ask questions
>that were already answered. I hope nobody minds.
>Tomorrow I'm going to order a HEI distributor from Mondello. I know I need
>a solid state regulator, but what else do I need? I need a new exhaust
>system. I didn't measure the pipe from the manifold to the muffler, but the
>tail pipe is 2 inch.  Should I put 2 1/2 pipes all the way back and I don't
>remember what was said about the Flowmaster muffler? Again, I want to
>apologize to every one for asking these questions again.
>
>Thanks
>
>Joe 442
>
Are you sure you lost your old posts?  I believe you still have them.  I did
the same thing, and found the posts were still there on the hard drive.  In
a sort of history archive.


The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:36:57 -0400
Subject: Re: M-21 Troubles

At 08:37 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Hello,
>Hope someone can help me.  I just put the engine and transmission back into
>my 70 W-30 after having both the engine and transmission rebuilt.  The
>engine runs fine but I can't shift into 1,2,3, or 4th.  It will shift into
>reverse with a little work.  When I had the engine and transmission out of
>the car everything seemed to work ok.  The shifter moved the transmission
>through the gears fine.  Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Scott Jerdan
>70 W-30 (Almost on the road again)
>
>
About two centuries ago, one of my cousins came to work with the same
complaint.  Latger he discovered he had mixed the shift arms, shift rods, or
something else.  I don't remember exactly, and I just called him; and he
said all he remembers doing was taking the linkags out, and putting it back
in some other way.

Not much help.  Not worth 2=A2  But a very remote possiblity.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:38:39 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject)

At 08:36 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I HAVE NOT changed tire sizes.  Yes the car has to be moving.
>aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaAlso, a 55 )Olds does not have ball joints.
>  I'm suspecting a problem in my steering box.  Is that any help?
>
>----------
>> From: doug thompson <DKTBAT@webtv.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: (no subject)
>> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 4:00 PM
>>
>> can you give us more info, does the car have to be moving, have you
>> changed tire sizes, ad any work done on front end, etc?
>>
>
>
Does that car still have an "I" beam?  I can't imagine that.  It must have
IFS.

Huh says the Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:41:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds vs. Chevy

At 08:55 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> Interesting. My LT1 is as quiet as can be. Much more quieter than the 350
in >> my 80 442. My LT1 has 21,000. A buddy of mine has a 95 Impala SS that I
have >> driven, it is as quiet as mine too? Noise inside my car is
non-evident. In >> fact my 80 442 has one of the noisest engines I have ever
had in a car. It >> has 92,000, doesn't leak or consume oil at all. > >The
hashy valvetrain noise is most apparent when listening to an idling >engine
with the hood up.  Sorry, I wasn't clear about the listening >conditions.  I
noticed a dramatic improvement when I added the C*rvette >rocker arm covers to
my '95 Fleetwood, both inside (I am a nitpick for >even the slightest noise)
and outside (had to lean over a lot closer to >the engine to hear the
perturbance), which was surprising to me, as this >was beyond my expectations.
The idea for this modification came from the >Imp*la SS list; many members
have added these covers with similar results. >What is the character and
source of the noise in your 442? > >Kevin Wong > > >Kevin,

I have my LT1 assembeled, but not in the car yet.  Hopefully next weekend.
Anyway, I have a pair of those Corvette rocker arm covers.  Would it be
beneficial to use them here.  If so, now would be a good time, as all I need
do is remove the others and put them on.

The Wiz

>

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:40:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds vs. Chevy

At 08:55 PM 2/23/97 -0400, Kevin Wong wrote:
>> Interesting. My LT1 is as quiet as can be. Much more quieter than the 350
in >> my 80 442. My LT1 has 21,000. A buddy of mine has a 95 Impala SS that I
have >> driven, it is as quiet as mine too? Noise inside my car is
non-evident. In >> fact my 80 442 has one of the noisest engines I have ever
had in a car. It >> has 92,000, doesn't leak or consume oil at all. > >The
hashy valvetrain noise is most apparent when listening to an idling >engine
with the hood up.  Sorry, I wasn't clear about the listening >conditions.

Ok. With the hood up I do notice the valvetrain noise, but only then and it
is really subtle.

>I noticed a dramatic improvement when I added the C*rvette
>rocker arm covers to my '95 Fleetwood, both inside (I am a nitpick for
>even the slightest noise) and outside (had to lean over a lot closer to
>the engine to hear the perturbance), which was surprising to me, as this
>was beyond my expectations.  The idea for this modification came from the
>Imp*la SS list

Yea some f-body list members are doing this mod. I want to for looks if
anything. I know on the f-body there is some bit of modification that needs
to be done to make the covers fit on one of the sides I forget which one)

>What is the character and source of the noise in your 442?

I am not sure. To be honest I am not that knowledgeable on engine internals
so I am clueless as to the noise. At idle it just seems that going by my
trusty ears it seems noisy. I know one of the noises I have is an exhaust
"tick" on the drivers side but that goes away when the engine is warm.
Performance is fine, no engine miss at all, no leaks.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28......Patriot Red, TFX cat-back, blackouts, Firehawk SVX tires
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:03:50 -0400
Subject: Re: M-21 Troubles

scott or sharon wrote:
>
> Hello,
> Hope someone can help me.  I just put the engine and transmission back into
> my 70 W-30 after having both the engine and transmission rebuilt.  The
> engine runs fine but I can't shift into 1,2,3, or 4th.  It will shift into
> reverse with a little work.  When I had the engine and transmission out of
> the car everything seemed to work ok.  The shifter moved the transmission
> through the gears fine.  Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Jerdan
> 70 W-30 (Almost on the road again)


You might try looking at the shift linkages. The guy I bought my W-30
from had tried to hook up the linkage and got them backwards (very easy
to do I'm lead to understand) and the tranny would not shift hardly
anywhere.

Danny

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:59:34 -0400
Subject: Re: '85 Ciera - Parts

In a message dated 97-02-23 12:06:11 EST, you write:

> single piece, that if the molding around the doors and the dome light
>  is removed, it will come out in one piece.  Is that true?
>
>  If it is true, how would I go about finding a replacement?
>
>  Any help would be appreciated.
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Bob Penniston
>

Bob

Yes it's true that the headliner in your car is all one piece.  My parents'
'88 Ciera is doing the same thing.  This is not an uncommon occurance at all.
 I would go to a nearby upholstery shop.  They replace them around here for
$50.  Let someone have the hassle of repairing it.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 23:59:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 80 Cutlass grille

In a message dated 97-02-23 15:54:51 EST, you write:

> On a sidenote, I recently read that Olds is dropping the Achieva.  No
>  big surprise there...but does this mean there will soon be no such thing
>  as an Olds 2-dr???

Well, yeah, they're dropping it, but they're gonna replace it with a car
called the Alero, due out in '99 (?).  The Achieva should be around through
'98.  The Alero will be Oldsmobiles only coupe model and a sedan will be
available also.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Howard H <howardh@sundial.sundial.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:27:36 -0400
Subject: Repaired antenna..........not!

Hey guys, need your help again with my '84 Hurst. I replaced the antenna
lead that wraps in to the spool on the motor,old one snapped and antenna
wouldn't move. When I put it all back together, I plugged the motor back to
its harness and it immediately wound up and retracted the antenna like it
should when radio is off and antenna is extended. After almost completely
buttoning everything back up, I figured I should try and see if it extends
correctly when I turn the radio on. Don't you knoww......nothing. Checked
all fuses, connections and plugs. Appears nothing out of place. Tried a few
more times, no luck. I undo everything again and pull the motor back out.
Opened motor back up and checked
what I could. I cleaned the armature and brushes, cleaned the two sets of
contact points, cleaned and lubed worm and gear and made sure everything
worked manually. I reassembled it again with antenna half extended, or for
you pessimists here, half retracted :). When I plugged it back up (I was
smart this time, I didn't remount under fender, just in case!!!!) it again
reeled in the
retracted mast like it should. I turned the radio on and......nothing. When
the mast stopped working a while back I noticed the antenna motor ran on and
on. It took me about 4-5 minutes to what was going on and what to do about it.
I unplugged the 3 prong plug going to the motor assy. I've disconnected
nothing else so I'm at a loss as to why it doesn't extend the mast, but will
retract it. Any ideas would be appreciated and put to use.




      ___   ___ ___
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /
   /  HURST //  /
  /  /  /  //  /_______
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \
         /  //  /OLDS/  /
        /  / \  \___/  /
       /__/   \_______/

  Howard Hosenbold
  howardh@sundial.net
  1984 Hurst Olds
  Production # 2748
  OCA # 024551
  HOCA # 1259
  OCF # 24551
      ___   ___ ___
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /
   /  HURST //  /
  /  /  /  //  /_______
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \
         /  //  /OLDS/  /
        /  / \  \___/  /
       /__/   \_______/

  Howard Hosenbold
  howardh@sundial.net
  1984 Hurst Olds
  Production # 2748
  OCA # 024551
  HOCA # 1259
  OCF # 24551



------------------------------

From: BHap@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:24:28 -0400
Subject: 67 W-30 Heads / Exhaust Manifolds

Can anyone tell me if I'm on the right track ?  Restoring a 67 W30.

My information for heads is that they are "C" heads, casting number 394548
(with a drill spot for manual transmission - which is what I need), has an
engine number stamped on front of right head on a machined pad which starts
"V" and ends "G".
Also that heads used for W30's in 67 were from california cars using the Air
Injector Reactor System K 19 - with the bosses on the heads where the AIRS
enters, drilled, tapped and plugged. (What kind of plug was used ? ) W30's
used heavier springs (?)
Also need exhaust manifolds - numbered W389268 (RH) and X389269 (LH) (?)
Were there any other differences for W30 heads / exhaust ?

This is what I think I'm looking for - I would appreciate any info on whether
this looks correct and/or where I might find these.  Thanks.

Bob

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 19:33:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

Pat,
   Indeed I think that your oil consuption is going through the
combustion processes.  I think that it very well could be the out of
round condition, and this may have been amplified by the chrome
rings, they are very hard, thus wear is great, and they need very
true cylinders to seal well, thus each condition promoted the other.
   By the way if this has been going on very long at all your
catalytic may be junk, prolonged rich conditions and oil burning are
hell on them and they don't last long after that.

Todd Wallin
twallin@grant.tds.net

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:38:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission Shavings

At 09:55 PM 2/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>At 01:12 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Howdy folks,
>>
>>This weekend, I changed the ATF and filter in my THM200C and found a
>>fair amount of shavings in the bottom of the pan.  I know some shavings
>>are normal, but I had enough to coat the bottom and a rather large pile
>>in the center of the pan.  Is this abnormal?  Also, it seems that my
[snip]
>        This is NOT normal. It is common to find small shavings clinging to
>the magnet in the pan. If it's any more than a thin coating there is some
>major work coming in the near future. As for the torque converter, if it is

Well, while this is not normal for most transmissions, this seems to be
completely normal behavior for most TH200's. And though it is normal, it is
a problem ("it" being both the shavings and the transmission itself).

The best solution would probably not be to rebuild the tranny (which you
*will* need to do soon), but rather replace it with a rebuilt TH350. Cheaper
and more reliable in the long run.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:45:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaking Lena

- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Leaking Lena
> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 9:05 PM
>
> At 04:04 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 97-02-12 23:45:22 EST, Dennis J. Sytsma wrote:
>
> >
> >Karl Erik Aune
> >Chicago IL
> >1965 Dynamic 88
> >
> >
> In a properly running engine there will be virtually no volume of gases
> exiting thru the oil filler cap, or the EGR valve hole.  In a properly
> running engine the small volume of gases produced in the engine are sent
> thru the engine and burned via the EGR.
>
> The Wiz
> Hmmmm Wouldn't that be PCV valve?  The EGR or exaust gas recirculation
valve opens a passage from the exaust to the intake manafold and has
nothing to do with the crankcase.

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 01:20:32 -0400
Subject: Calais steering

Anybody,

I have a 1990 Calais W40 and I think it's a fantastic machine, except that
it has what has to be the largest turning radius in the world!  To my
knowledge there is nothing faulty with the steering; it's just that it
seems to have a larger-than-average turning radius, especially for a
compact car.
Anyone know what can be done to improve this situation?  The car has power
steering and 14inch diameter wheels with 215/60 tires. (I believe these
are stock dimensions).

Thanx much!!

               Jim Townsend

               '90 Calais
               '97 Viper GTS (NOT!)

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:29:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

a two piece rear main can be changed w/o removing the crank, the factory
manual shows the proceedure. after removing the oil pan, you drop the
rear main cap and using special tool push the seal out and feed another
in. this is assuming you have a factory type rope seal. it can be done.
it's no fun!!!   doug, '67 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:28:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?
>
> >
> >
> Curiosity makes me ask: can you change a 2 piece rear mail seal without
> removing the Crankshaft?
>
> The Wiz
The rope type is hard to do . To remove the old upper half you try to pull
it with needle nose plyers while turning the crank. Pushing it from the
other side can help a little if the seal is old and hard. If its soft it
will just wad up when pushed on. To install the upper half they made a tool
that worked like chinese handcuffs with a flexable wire attached. You
threaded the wire through the seal groove and pulled the rope through.The
seal is long enough so you can remove the tool and trim the seal.   You
can't pack it in like you would if you had the crank out. The neoprene type
will usually come out fairly easily by pushing on it and turning the crank.
With some oil on it the new one will slip right in. Main bearings can be
changed in the same way.

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 19:42:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

Pat,
   Also, the soot on the bumper, if not oily, is most likely carbon
from a rich condition, this is appearing because the catalytic is not
opperation effectively because of the oil.  The oil can not be burned
in the cylinder though in this case, these engines don't even
effectively burn gassoline from a phisics point of view to think that
the oil is being "burned" is wrong, it has to be passing through the
system somehow and getting caught up somewhere it is only time before
smoke shows up at the tailpipe.

Todd

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:35:28 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 307 problem history
> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 9:28 PM
>
> At 07:20 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >You are correct in thinking oil can be burnt without any smoke. I have a
> >heater in my shop that burns motor oil and once it is at operating temp
> >there is nothing comeing from the chimney but heat waves.
> >
> >----------
> >> From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
> >> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >> Subject: Re: 307 problem history
> >> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 3:54 PM
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
>
> If the motor oil WAS completely consumed in the combustion chamber of a
> gasoline engine, there would nothing but the clear elements in its exhast
> too, but that is not typically the case.
>
> The Wiz
> Typically no but this is the only explanition for a engine that uses oil
and has no leaks. It has to be burning it cause oil doesn't evaporate. I
have seen several late model engines that  never left a drop of oil or a
whif of smoke and used a quart of oil every couple of hundred miles.

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 05:53:55 -0400
Subject: Re: RadioShack equipment...

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> Tis true of course that other Radio Shack products don't have a great
> reputation; their old TRS (AKA "Trash") 80 line of computers come to mind...
>
> Tim Churchill

 Hey Tim, Be careful about "trashing" those TRS-80 computers. I worked
for R/S (Tandy) repairing computers from 1983 until 1995 and those
computers kept me pretty busy for years! Maybe that is saying
something???
 It's not that they bad computers, they just ran on their own O/S that
was not very IBM compatible and you couldn't run anyone elses software
on them. Plus, you know that anyone who bought a Tandy computer back in
the TRS-80 days, probably owned a Micronta multi-meter to try and fix
their computer themselves!! Now, is that T-R-S or tress??

Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible
MailTo:bradbaker@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 04:28:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaking Lena

At 12:45 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>----------
>> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Leaking Lena
>> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 9:05 PM
>>
>> At 04:04 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> >In a message dated 97-02-12 23:45:22 EST, Dennis J. Sytsma wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >Karl Erik Aune
>> >Chicago IL
>> >1965 Dynamic 88
>> >
>> >
>> In a properly running engine there will be virtually no volume of gases
>> exiting thru the oil filler cap, or the EGR valve hole.  In a properly
>> running engine the small volume of gases produced in the engine are sent
>> thru the engine and burned via the EGR.
>>
>> The Wiz
>> Hmmmm Wouldn't that be PCV valve?  The EGR or exaust gas recirculation
>valve opens a passage from the exaust to the intake manafold and has
>nothing to do with the crankcase.
>
>
>

You're right, I guess my head wasn't exactly screwed on tight today.

PCV it is.

The Wiz Agress with the superior knowledge.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 04:32:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

At 12:29 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>a two piece rear main can be changed w/o removing the crank, the factory
>manual shows the proceedure. after removing the oil pan, you drop the
>rear main cap and using special tool push the seal out and feed another
>in. this is assuming you have a factory type rope seal. it can be done.
>it's no fun!!!   doug, '67 4-4-2
>
>
Doug,

Thanks for the passing that along.  I was trying to get a mental picture of
the possible proceedure, and the closest I could come was something like
your description.  I don't think I ever thought about doing it that way
however, as getting oil pans off with the engine in the car can be a full
fledged trip, very few cars allow for this, to be done, handily

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 04:34:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

At 12:28 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>----------
>> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?
>>
>> >
>> >
>> Curiosity makes me ask: can you change a 2 piece rear mail seal without
>> removing the Crankshaft?
>>
>> The Wiz
>The rope type is hard to do . To remove the old upper half you try to pull
>it with needle nose plyers while turning the crank. Pushing it from the
>other side can help a little if the seal is old and hard. If its soft it
>will just wad up when pushed on. To install the upper half they made a tool
>that worked like chinese handcuffs with a flexable wire attached. You
>threaded the wire through the seal groove and pulled the rope through.The
>seal is long enough so you can remove the tool and trim the seal.   You
>can't pack it in like you would if you had the crank out. The neoprene type
>will usually come out fairly easily by pushing on it and turning the crank.
>With some oil on it the new one will slip right in. Main bearings can be
>changed in the same way.
>
>
>
Another thanks for the clairfication.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 05:38:31 -0400
Subject: Re: M-21 Troubles

>
>Hello,
>Hope someone can help me.  I just put the engine and transmission back into
>my 70 W-30 after having both the engine and transmission rebuilt.  The
>engine runs fine but I can't shift into 1,2,3, or 4th.  It will shift into
>reverse with a little work.  When I had the engine and transmission out of
>the car everything seemed to work ok.  The shifter moved the transmission
>through the gears fine.  Any ideas?
>

Uh, oh...  Synchros?  With the car stopped, can you run through the gears?
Does it just act up when moving?  (I guess you couldn't move if you can't
find first, could ya...)  Well then that would have to limit it to shift
linkage.  I'd say that's that.  Double check your shifter installation.
Shift rods binding/hooked up/there?


      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 05:38:29 -0400
Subject: Re: '55 Olds steering noise

>I have a 55 Olds 98 and wheniturn rather sharply to the left, I get a
>grinding noise.  there is no steering difficulty, just the noise.  Can you
>help?
>
Wheel bearings?  Possibly...


Looking at all the other responses, I'd tend to suspect this more and more.
When turning, there is increased pressure on the front end componants, so
any noises might be more noticeable then.  I'd say jack up the front wheel
and rock the tire in and out.  Is there much movement?  If so, pull the tire
and the wheel bearing dust cap (or whatever equivalent Olds used in 1955...)
and rock the top of the brake drum in and out.  You should notice if there's
any movement inside the hole there.  The nut may be coming loose, or the
bearings may have gone south (look out, Bill, they're headed your way) or
perhaps the brake guts have taken a dump inside the drum (in which case
you'd still have to pull the bearings out anyway--on most cars...)

Oh, and kudos for keeping some of America's finest steel on the road!  :)

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 05:38:25 -0400
Subject: Re: 1984 Hurst/Olds repair Suggestions

I just noticed my program says this never went out, so I'll re-Queue it, and
send it now.  If it's a repeat, this is my disclaimer/apology...  :)


>>
>> Rough Idle,  High Hydrocarbons, can smell gas fumes.  runs better but not
>> what I would call good after warming up, engine dies if you don't let it
>> warm up.
>
>At first reading it sounds like a leaking or cracked intake manifold.
>Later Olds V8s seem to be known for this.

Sounds like this diagnosis is checking for a vacuum leak, but the
indications all point towards an over-rich condition.  High HC's and gas
fumes tell me incomplete combustion, and the vacuum leak won't likely cause
that.  I'm sure you've already checked the air cleaner.  Float too high?
Choke sticking closed/adjusted too tight?  Aftermarket fuel pump running too
high pressure?  What about the carb?  Is it original, or has it been
modified?  It could need to be re-jetted.  Is it a Holley with a ruptured
power valve?  Is it a Q-jet with the check valve (little lost BB) missing
from the accel pump circuit, causing fuel to siphon constantly?  Are the
Spark plugs and wires OK?  A dead cylinder or two can cause these readings
and symptoms as well.  Umm, saturated carbon canister?  (did the H/O have
them right in the air cleaner?  That wouldn't be as likely.)   I'm done
guessing :)

That might give ya a few ideas to ponder.  I missed out on most of the
thread before this, so I'm not sure how much of this has been addresed.
Good luck...


      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 06:02:30 -0400
Subject: Re: M-21 Troubles

I have heard that this 3/4" freeplay method of adjusting a linkage clutch
is not the "correct" method of adjusting as per the recommended service
procedure.  Supposedly, you are supposed to set the clutch to "grab" a
half inch or so off the ground..in other words, right off the floorboard.
I suppose the 3/4" isn't always enough to disengage the throwout bearing
completely, so this method gives maximum possible disengagement of the
bearing.

------------------------------

From: John Andersson <joan@uv.khs.dk>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 07:06:36 -0400
Subject: Rebuilding

Dear Sirs

I have a litle problem about getting spareparts to my car so I do hope
that Yuo are able to help me.

My car is an Oldsmobile Custa Vista Cruiser, 1964, the stationwagon with
the "Greahound-roof".

As I know, there was only build 400 pieces of the car, and my car should
be the only one in the Scandinavia.

My problem is that I miss 4 doors and a back door. If You can help me I
hope that You will mail or send me a few words.

My private adress is

	John Andersson
	Hedevej 3
	DK - 2680  Solroed Strand
	Denmark

Yours faitfully

John Andersson

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 08:45:43 -0400
Subject: Removing door inside handles / water inside door

Some 8 years ago, when I restored a Pon*iac Cata*na 1962 I bought a
tool for removing the door handles. I found that tool missing just
when I would have needed it.

SO. I decided to make a tool of my own.
I bended the nose of a small screwdriver after warming it first a little
over 90 degrees (the bending, not the temperature :). The bended nose
acts as a fishing hook which can be used to PULL out the retaining spring.
The original tool PUSHED the spring out.

I HAD to open the door because I could hear water sloshing inside there.
The sloshing (hope this is the right word) begun after the weather warmed
enough to smelt down the ice inside. I think there was about 4 litres of
water inside the door.

I drilled holes on the bottom of the door to let the existing and incoming
water run out before it would rust the door from inside to out.

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: "Etzel Bobby" <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 08:55:29 -0400
Subject: RE: Rocket 88 Song

Greg I sent them the animated gif that I have on my home page. (Escape Back to
the.....Past) They didn't even reply that they received it. Maybe the file is
to large or something. I checked Friday to see if they had changed it, but
they are still using the T-Bird. The guy must like T-birds.

http://home1.gte.net/hwn/be.html

Bobby

70 442 (Escape Back to the...Past)
______________________________________________________________________________
_ From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Fri, Feb 21, 1997 2:46 PM Subject: Re:
Rocket 88 Song To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 bryceman@442.com wrote:
> What was the name of the jazz/blues group who did that Rocket 88 song. I
> have a copy of the song for the Multimedia section but I dont know the name
> of the group.

B'man, you're not referring to the current one by Kathy Mattea are you?
It's sort of bluesy... title is "455 Rocket" though.

Saw the video the other night. Great except they used (as someone pointed
out earlier) a junked Buick Skylark for some of the interior shots. Really
good song though. Anyone gotten an animated Olds for the song's web page
yet?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada






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To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
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In-Reply-To: <v03010d01af33290acda7@[206.52.159.202]>
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------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 09:48:29 -0400
Subject: Re: more 307

Wiz,
       These cars didn't smoke just used oil. This was a problem in all
divisions that used the "Y" motor. Also since I work in a Flat Rate shop I
only got like 10 hours to remove the motor tranfer all the
brackets,intake,valve covers,front timing cover and oil pan from the old
motor to the new long block put it back in and get it running so didn't leave
a lot of time to figure out what exactly was the problem. The information I
related is stuff I got through GM techline. My shop doesn't have the
equipment to check cylinder bores and I wish I could spend a lot more time
checking out the concerns.
                                Steve

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 09:54:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

Hi,
     I have used the 2 piece 460 Ford rear main instead of the rope. It works
great and is not nearly as hard as the rope seal. I don't think you could use
a one piece seal if they made one( would't fit over the flywheel flange). You
can install this with the crank in the car you just have to be paitent.
                                                                    Steve

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 10:32:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Whats in a name??  was Re: 442

theogns wrote:

> I think d*dge had some of the most agressive sounding names b*rr*cud*,
> ch*llenger, d*rt, s*per c*mmando, s*voy, imp*rial, ch*rger ad nauseum.

I knew that "nauseum" was a name for a d*dge car ;-)   Those
mopheads!!!!

Chris Sparks
68 442 (How about 4:42?)

------------------------------

From: sguiller@stumail.engr.udayton.edu
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 20:02:09 -0400
Subject: Re: 67' 4-4-2 convertible $$$...

Old Cars price guide lists the following for a '67 4-4-2 conv.
1)17,000
2)11,900
3) 6,800
Shaun R. Guillermin

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 10:46:24 -0400
Subject: Noise during turning...

Have you checked your front wheel bearings?? I recently did a brake job on
the front of my P/U.  When driving it I noticed a grinding sound when I
turned to the right.  I found that I had not tightened the nut that hold the
left side bearings in place sufficeintly.  An easy check for this is to
simply grab hold of the front tire and rock the car.  Pushing in and pulling
back.  You should be able to feel if there is excessive play.  If there is
excessive play on one side or both sides, tighten it up and replace the
cotter pin that you removed.  DO NOT reuse the cotter pin.

Cecil
1991 W-41
NotDads442@aol.com


>From: "Bud & Sandy Walls" <jfreak@mail.bright.net>
>Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 20:36:17 -0400
>Subject: Re: (no subject)
>
>I HAVE NOT changed tire sizes.  Yes the car has to be moving.
>aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaAlso, a 55 )Olds does not have ball joints.
>  I'm suspecting a problem in my steering box.  Is that any help?
>- ----------
> From: doug thompson <DKTBAT@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: (no subject)
> Date: Sunday, February 23, 1997 4:00 PM
>
> can you give us more info, does the car have to be moving, have you
> changed tire sizes, ad any work done on front end, etc?


------------------------------

From: JimLouRich@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 10:52:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Calais steering

You wrote;


Anybody,

I have a 1990 Calais W40 and I think it's a fantastic machine, except that
it has what has to be the largest turning radius in the world!  To my
knowledge there is nothing faulty with the steering; it's just that it
seems to have a larger-than-average turning radius, especially for a
compact car.
Anyone know what can be done to improve this situation?  The car has power
steering and 14inch diameter wheels with 215/60 tires. (I believe these
are stock dimensions).


     There are a lot of late model GM cars that had optional sport R&P
steering.  Example; the rack and pinion on a stock Celebrity was about 3
turns lock to lock. The Celebrity Eurosport however, had a ratio of 2.5 turns
lock to lock.
     My suggestion is to identify what other cars are in the same body
catagory ie; calais, pontiac grand am?? etc. then hunt to find a rack that
has the SHORTER ratio.  In addition, smaller steering wheels will help the
feel of the steering but unfortunately will not actually effecting the
performance characteristics thereof.

Hope this helps.

JIM

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 10:54:22 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Remaking Olds engines

Cylinder heads are another matter.  Why not find a good pattern maker, and do
it yourself...

          You're absolutely right, Wiz, however I think C.J. Batten
          has already done the cylinder heads...

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JimLouRich@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 11:14:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding

>John you wrote;


I have a litle problem about getting spareparts to my car so I do hope
that Yuo are able to help me.

My car is an Oldsmobile Custa Vista Cruiser, 1964, the stationwagon with
the "Greahound-roof".

As I know, there was only build 400 pieces of the car, and my car should
be the only one in the Scandinavia.

My problem is that I miss 4 doors and a back door. If You can help me I
hope that You will mail or send me a few words.


My suggestion is to pick up a copy of     HEMINGS MOTOR NEWS
you can reach that publication at            USA 1-800-227-4373

                                       Address:        Hemmings Motor News
                                                            P.O. Box 1108
                                                            Bennington,
Vermont USA 05201

You'll love what you find in there.

Two other places you might try is the Grand Dad and Grand Mom of all
Oldsmobile Junk Yards ; Hall's Salvage  USA 913-924 3748
                    Auto Ranch     USA 817-482 3007


As a last resort try Berejik Motors  USA 617-444 4797  they are an Olds
dealer that specializes in restoration parts.

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 12:11:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds 403

sbento@mecn.mass.edu wrote:
>
> On Fri, 21 Feb 1997, Gerald Hughes wrote:
>
> > I have an Olds 403 engine That I want to get ride of!!! If anyone is
> > intrested please email me!!! It got every thing block, heads, crank,
> > rods, pistons, manifold, everything a stock 403 came with!!!!!
> > How much would this engine be worth running and not running?  How much
> > would be considered a good price if one was to buy it to rebuild.
> >
> > Also,  Is this a good motor to rebuild for performance?  What kind of
> > other block components are compatible?  What kind of transmission will
> > bolt up to it?
> >
> > Has anyone seen a 403 run an Olds into the 12's?
> >
> >                                               Gerald Hughes
> >                                               79 Hurst/Olds
> >
>
> Yes, actually I have seen a 403 run 12's. The car was a mid 80's Cutlass
> with 3.73's, slicks, TH700R4 with an adapter plate to mount to the Olds,
> 3000 stall conveter and a bunch of Mondello goodies in the engine. The
> car was a daily driver (which is why the owner installed the Th700) and
> it was running 12.8's and 12.9's the night I saw it. Very clean too..
>
> Steve
> 71 Cutlass S 455
> 93 Mustang LX 5.0
> >

Steve,
	I have another question for you if you don't mind.  I am looking at a
1970 Cutlass S 455.  I don't have alot of info on it yet, but it has a
little rust and the body is beat up.  They are asking 1200.  Is that
reasonable?  If I was to take the 455 out and drop a 350 in it and sell
it would I be able to get 1200?  Please E-Mail me back with any answers
or additional questions.  Thank You.

						Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: Daren Anderson <darena@iw.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:32:05 -0400
Subject: Re: 76 Cutlass S Dakotan

Robert:

	I kept this Email just in case I ever run into information about this
car.  I talked to the people in Lansing, MI at the Research/History
Center...in '76 they made a Cutlass and a Cutlass "S"; the "s" was a
lower end model, just like an Belair would be to an Impala (In Chevy
terms :))  They are sending me information about both so we can compare
the differences.  The Dakotan part, I know I have read about, so will
keep doing research...Thanks for your input.

Daren Anderson
1991 Olds Cutlass - Quad4




Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> At 07:50 AM 1/24/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >1995.  We have a potential member that is looking for information on
> >their car...it is a 1976 Olds Cutlass S Dakotan; I know I have read
> >about information on this car but cannot recall where....can anyone
>
> That sounds like a regional dealer promotion to sell some leftover cars. Not
> likely an "official" Olds model.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 12:44:22 -0400
Subject: 2-doors vs. 4? (Was Re: 80 Cutlass grille)

>I was talking to an Olds salesman and he said that the two doors are on
>the way out. Explaining he said " Olds is going to compete with l*xus
>and the other sport/sedan companies." I think they have the fool idea
>that people don't want two doors anymore.

Well, I'm not going to try to speak for most people, but IMHO, I've
owned 2-doors and 4-doors, and if the company can style a nice and
attractive 4-door, I'll buy it.

The advantage to 2-doors is often that the car _looks_ better: smoother
or swoopier or something; if you put four doors on it, your roofline
has to be kicked up a bit higher in the back since you may actually
have people back there. But with a 4-door, I can have people entering
and exiting my car without having to climb all over the seatbacks and
generally contort themselves into weird positions to get there. And I
like my cars, so I _want_ people to ride in them and enjoy them, too.
And finally, the driver's door of a 4-door is usually a lot shorter
than a 2-door, making my entry and exit a lot easier in tight areas.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:01:26 -0400
Subject: Re: more 307

At 09:48 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Wiz,
>       These cars didn't smoke just used oil. This was a problem in all
>divisions that used the "Y" motor. Also since I work in a Flat Rate shop I
>only got like 10 hours to remove the motor tranfer all the
>brackets,intake,valve covers,front timing cover and oil pan from the old
>motor to the new long block put it back in and get it running so didn't leave
>a lot of time to figure out what exactly was the problem. The information I
>related is stuff I got through GM techline. My shop doesn't have the
>equipment to check cylinder bores and I wish I could spend a lot more time
>checking out the concerns.
>                                Steve
>

Ten hours is enough about the tenth time in a row you did the same in and
out, but its cheap seats getting there.

Oil loss that is not physically dripping on the floor, but going out thru
the exhaust, and NOT making any visible indication is a new one one me.
Especially when its a qt. in 400 miles, by todays standards, that seems like
a lot of loss.

It's always interesting to discover something new, and thanks for that.

In the old days (the very old days), they would put the castings out to cure
for months.  This process is, in fact, a stress relief; which is not
accomplished by other means (usually heat treat).  Curiosity demands that I
discern whether these motor changes were warranty work?

It's always better to do it right the frist time.

Thanks for the data,

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:13:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Remaking Olds engines:again

  If there is anybody out there who knows of  any foundries or has any info
on founding or on the casting process -- Please let me know.  Ive been
surfing the net and sending email but so far no response to any of my
inquiries.
  And for that matter ---- any pattern makers out there???

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:14:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts for sale -Reply

>>> Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net> 02/22/97 08:55pm >>>
>>69 442 4 spoke aluminum sport steering wheel......$95
>
>Ninety five bucks?!  They're not ~that~ rare, are they??

Dave, if you've been wanting one of those, I'd recommend snagging it.
They *are* getting harder to come by.  I paid $135 for mine (I'm probably
one of the poorest people on the list), and I had to paint the hub and
button to make it match... But I still think it was worth every penny --
because it was in excellent condition.  If I didn't already have one, I'd have
bought this one by now...

If you still have doubts, try calling Brother's Automotive and asking them for
a price on a used one.  When I called 6 months ago, they were wanting
$180.  I laughed and hung up.

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 12:48:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Wetter

>However, could someone pass along the name of a shop which is likely
>to have a branch in Chicago that might carry "watter wetter" ? Perhaps
>Pep Boys (Parts USA), or Murray's, or even (ugh) Forest City Auto Parts?

As it happens I was just about to call Forest City anyway...

They put me on Musical Hold for a minute, then came back to announce that
they didn't carry it, but they were confident that Super Shops did. They
suggested Elk Grove Village or Mount Prospect locations. Good luck...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:04:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

At 09:54 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi,
>     I have used the 2 piece 460 Ford rear main instead of the rope. It works
>great and is not nearly as hard as the rope seal. I don't think you could use
>a one piece seal if they made one( would't fit over the flywheel flange). You
>can install this with the crank in the car you just have to be paitent.
>                                                                    Steve
>
>
I went to F*rd, bought the part, but have not opened the package.  I will
look at it the next time I'm in the shop however, curiousity has my
attention over this one.

The Wiz


------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:53:49 -0400
Subject: Re: more 307

> What more info can I get you?  (Really, I don't know).  I've never really
run > into one like this before.  I was hoping to find something like a bad
batch of > rings at GM in 87 or some sort of info like that.  I really think
a quart to 400 > mi. is too much for valve seals; if so it has to be rings. >
 > I'm thinking about replacing the 307Y with a 307"9" (long block)from a
good > engine rebuilder.  Do I need to come up with a different harmonic
balancer?  148 > HP (give or take) is a little anemic in a two-ton wagon and
I'm surrounded by > counties that sniff the tailpipe annually so I can't get
too radical.  I'd still > like to find an easy fix for the "Y" but I can't
think of anything I've > overlooked. > Thanks for all the info. > > Pat > >
Forget the "9" motor, you'd be much better off with a 350 or 403.

My $.02 worth.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:57:09 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

In a message dated 97-02-24 01:07:39 EST, you write:

<< >
 > If the motor oil WAS completely consumed in the combustion chamber of a
 > gasoline engine, there would nothing but the clear elements in its exhast
 > too, but that is not typically the case.
 >
 > The Wiz
 > Typically no but this is the only explanition for a engine that uses oil
 and has no leaks. It has to be burning it cause oil doesn't evaporate. I
 have seen several late model engines that  never left a drop of oil or a
 whif of smoke and used a quart of oil every couple of hundred miles.  >>

I have an '88 Cavalier with the same problem.  I uses about 1-2 quarts every
few weeks, and it doesn't leak anywhere (climbed under the car, so I know),
and it doesn't smoke when it runs, or even starting, and warming up.  The
problem I have is the PVC valve is letting the motor suck the oil into the
motor, I'm sure in small amounts, not enough to notice in the burning
process, but it does consume oil.  I just noticed this, and am going to fix
it here soon (just figuring out what the problem was....).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:47:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System

At 01:35 PM 2/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-02-19 12:53:48 EST, you write:
>
><<   I have 2 1/4" Walkers on my '87 Cutlass and they sound pretty good. I
> don't know about the performance differences between Flowmaster or Walker.
> I'm happy with mine though. >>
>
>how much did you pay for these and from where...
>
>
 I paid about $60 a piece for them and purchased them from Rodefelds (sp?).
They have a lifetime warranty on them so if they ever go bad then they'll
supposedly replace them.

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:57:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection

At 11:51 PM 2/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> Has anyone retrofitted a Holley TBI or other fuel injection system on their
>> Olds BB or SB? If so, are you happy with the result and can you provide
>> detail on the conversion?
>>
>	Just as a note to everybody who is toying with the idea of an FI
>retrofit, you might want to try and get ahold of some of the guys on the
>DIY Fuel Injection list.  I found their web-page a while back doing a
>search on Fuel Injection, and I'd be willing to bet that there is a guru
>in there somewhere that would have some ansewers on just how to go about
>this sort of thing.  Hope this helps...
>
>				Scott
>			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98
>
>
>
 Maybe try Fuel Injection Specialties. They can supposedly retro fit just
about any car with a TPI unit. Costs about $2200 and includes everything. If
you have a computer they can recalibrate it to work with this system also.
  Their E-mail address is fuelinjection@fuelinjection.com

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 13:50:22 -0400
Subject: 56 Oldsmobiles

  Are there still very many 56's around?  I had one when i was 17 and i loved
that thing -- Specificly it was a Holliday 88 with 2v 324 and the hydramatic
trans and was all original right down to the wing nut on the air cleaner --
when i bought it, it had been sitting since 1965 -- it still had the nylon
braided plug wires and what looked like a bakelite distributor cap and some
wierd off brand sparkplugs they were larger than 13/16 but had the normal
thread -- Apparently somebody wanted the car to be red and white instead of
the orange and bone and it looked like the color had been changed while it
was still at the manufacturing plant because there hadn't been any body work
done nor any sanding -- the orange bled through in a couple of places.
The interior was orange and black cloth -- you know the black itchy stuff
with the gold threads in it.
  When i got it i put some 54 Buick rims on it and L78x15 tires in the rear
and F78x15 tires in the front and i put some mini spring clamps on the front
springs to lower it about an inch more -- I never did locate the Fiesta caps
that i wanted but man what a car -- at the time i couldn't even afford to put
dual exhaust on the car so i just sellted for a single shorty glasspack which
worked out fine.
  The things i did find for it though were really cool -- bought an old
Edlebrock 3x2bble intake manifold with three Stromberg 88's and a set of
chrome valve covers with the bumps in them for the high lift rockers -- I
even found a guy that could modify the transmission so that i could manually
select all four gears -- and even another guy who would have made me a set of
custom headders for the car -- but i was 17 at the time and ended up trading
the car for the paint job on my 67 F85
  Someday i will have another 56 Olds Holliday 88

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:21:36 -0400
Subject: Painting SSI wheels

Hi Gang,

I just got my SSIs back from the sandblaster.  The backs and insides are now
clean metal.  How should I paint the backs/insides?  Will Rustoleum (or
similar) work okay, or should I go to the auto paint store?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:42:57 -0400
Subject: window motor

well my window is stuck in the down position and will not go up i was
wondering if anyone had suggestions on how i could fix or replace it...(maybe
someone is trying to sell one) still looking for the light covers too...

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #533
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