To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #565


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 18 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 565

Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question
Re: Red Inner Fenders
Re: PST front end kit
Re: An end to Oil Seals + gOlds rush
Re: 455/parts for Sale DC area
Sheetmetal
Re: Smog pump on '66 dynamic
PARTS SWAPPING
RE:Subject: Quad 4 applications
Re: Sheetmetal
Re: When is Spring Carlisle?
rear-end id. needed
Re: Sheetmetal
69 442 CONV.
Re: F88 for sale!
I've returned
Re: F88 for sale!
Re: OOPS, plus additional mileage question - 307 Delta
Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat
'67 Olds Rocket
Re: '67 Olds Rocket
'67 Delmont
Re: '67 Olds Rocket
Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat
Fwd: your 455(cont)
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
69 H/O Rear Code
Re: rear-end id. needed
Subscriber Info Needed
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
THE ELUSIVE 455 FORGED CRANK...
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
Re: 1901 Curved Dash Olds
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
Re: 1901 Curved Dash Olds
Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat
Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat
307 OLDS INFO
(Non-Olds) end of the line
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems
Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator
Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability
Re: 455/parts for Sale DC area
Edelbrock Torker intake
Re: Insurance
Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat
Re: 69 H/O Rear Code
Re: '67 Delmont
Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability
Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question
Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"
Re: THE ELUSIVE 455 FORGED CRANK...
Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat
Where are the digests?
Exhaust Tips
For Sale 1967 Olds Cutlass

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Frank Gonzalez <PLPAUDIO@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:35:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question

> that; I'd just like to hear from others who have done so.
> I also have a carburetor question.  I have a Holley 650 spread bore,
> mechanical secondary, carb  Is is possible to up the CFM to roughly 800 by
incresaing the > jets, and accelerator pumps??  I would like to use this carb
if I can, as > it's good and FREE! > > ANY thoughts or suggestions would be
appreciated! > > Steve Reed > Austin, TX > 1970 4-4-2 Ragtop

Steve,
Save yourself a lot of work and stick with the stock Quadrajet.A
bigblock quadrajet flows about 850cfm and is IMHO much more relaible and
responsive in a street vehicle than the Holley.With proper tuning the
stock carb will be more than you will need.
Hope this helps,
Frank
70 442
71 w-30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:17:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Red Inner Fenders

Thanks for the reply on this. I wouldn't waste a pair of NOS on this car. The
only other thing I worry about is the shipping. Did you get these recently?.
   Steve

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:20:14 -0400
Subject: Re: PST front end kit

I just installed PST poly bushing kit in the front end of my '71 Cutlass
Supreme Conv.  It's awesome!  I  already had H-O Racing's 1 3/8" front
and rear sway bars, springs, and rear poly bushings, but the front was
stock.  The rear bushing squeak like hell!  The PST bushings are very
quiet, the only noise they make is when going over a speed bump kinda
fast, then you get a loud deep sqeak, but nothing anoying.

I got the kit with the ball joints and tie rod ends too.  I installed
everything myself except for the upper control arm bushing which the
local gas station used a hydrolic press for.

Be careful separating the upper ball joints, I cracked one control arm
while hitting the seperating fork (cost $35 at the junk yard).

Final note, get the KYB shocks ($60 a pair).  They are well worth it!


Don't forget a front end alignment too!

Oh yeah, the two bolts that hold the front control arm on: (they have the
shims in them), they have splined shafts, so don't use an air wrench on
'em like I did.  It stripped the spines, allowing the bolts to work
loose.  The car is currently in the shop getting them replaced.

- -greg
gzimmerm@runet.edu

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:24:25 -0400
Subject: Re: An end to Oil Seals + gOlds rush

Me again.

Well, I spent for hours in the cold on Saturday, and four hours in the
not-nearly-so-cold-but-still-pretty-darn-nippy of Sunday and finally brought
it to my mechanic today. I just hope I still have a job when I arrive in
Wheeling tomorrow.

I did have the right seal for the axle, I just had inferior tools/methods for
inserting it. My mechanic managed to seat a new seal in ca. 40 min. This was
because at his shop, they make their own tools for certain applications. The
tool he used for this job started out in life as exhaust tubing!

In other news, I called Halls Auto Salvage in Soldier Kansas. He will be open
on Saturday, march 29, and he does have a great number of Oldsmobiles
(including my year of interest). I also got directions on how to get to
Soldier from Topeka, Kansas (My road atlas doesn't show Soldier, but I do
know where it is relative to Topeka). So my plan is to travel to the vicinity
of Soldier on Friday, crash at a Motel, spend Good Saurday (?) prospecting
through the boneyard for gOldsmobiles, and drive back to Chicago overnight.
Now if anyone else in the general midwest area is interest, I could alter my
plans somewhat in order to form an Oldsmobile caravan of sorts. Anyone? Bear
in mind this fellow is going out of buisness as of April, and the contents of
this yard will likely get crushed (oh, no! I said the "c" word!).

If anyone wishes to contact me, my Email address is in the headderof this
posting, and when I am not online I can be reached at 1 (773) 381-1438
    [fu1-1get]

Make love, Oldsmobiles, or war, but do something!

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Packing a suitcase with duct tape.

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:23:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 455/parts for Sale DC area

>
> Howdy All,
>
> I have a 455 that has been in a boat for one season that I am considering
> replacing with a blown Chevy.  I know that you all might be cursing my
> name right now, but the engineers at Olds just didn't make the 455 for
> really big horsepower, that the average person can afford anyway.
>
> So here is what I have:
>
> - 68 455 Block (Best block can accept the most bore.  0.030 right now.)
> - TRW High compression forged pistons
> - Mondello Restrictors
> - N Crank (Best crank beside the toronado Forged)
> - C Heads(Harden Exhaust seats, Bronze valve guides)
> - Torker Intake
> - Offy Tunnel Ram Intake
> - Mallory Dual Point Distributer
> - Four point motor mounts for Jet boat
> - Hardin Marine "Log" exhaust.
>
> If you have a jet boat and want Olds power in it, this is a great motor.  I
> currently have a 12 qt oil pain with dual remote oil filters and a oil
cooler > on the engine.  I doubt that the engine would show any wearing.  If
you > are interested, give me a call (301) 428-6894 or e-mail me. > > I won't
sell the heads or block seperately, the engine comes in one piece. >  I will
part with the intakes or distributor. > > Thanks, > > Matt Butler > >

I'm might be interested- I live in springfield, VA.  How much are we
talking? $$$   How many hours on it since the rebuild?  How much HP is it
putting out?

greg
gzimmerm@runet.edu

------------------------------

From: groat@ball.com (Glen Roat)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:31:42 -0400
Subject: Sheetmetal

Does anyone know if the rear wheel arches of a '72 Vista Cruiser are the
same as a comparable year Cutlass S? It's the only rust on the car, I would
prefer to keep it all steel, and I haven't been able to find steel QP
replacements for these wagons. (With the exception of some very poor panels
sold through JC Whitney - they don't even come close to reproducing the
angles in the wheel arch).

Thanks!
Glen
Denver, CO

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:38:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Smog pump on '66 dynamic

In a message dated 97-03-16 16:22:34 EST, you write:

<< Just a quick question that maybe someone can help me with:

 I'm in CA looking at a 1966 dynamic 88 w/ the 425 and TH400
 It's missing the smog pump, but the "dealer" who's selling it says its
perfectly legal.
 How can I find out what state the car was 1st sold in?
  >>

Hmmmm.

Ummmm...Hmmmm.

Okay, what's a smog pump.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Duct tape, it's not just for ducks anymore!

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:38:00 -0400
Subject: PARTS SWAPPING

      Date:  03/17/1997  03:38 pm  (Monday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  PARTS SWAPPING

JUST CURIOUS, OES ANYONE KNOW IF THE FRONT
FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS FOR A 1964 F-85
CUTLASS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE WITH A 1964
SKYLARK????

------------------------------

From: PidgLanger@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 20:00:59 -0400
Subject: RE:Subject: Quad 4 applications

>From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
>Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:13:31 -0400
>Subject: Quad 4 applications
>
>Anyone have an idea what the heaviest vehicle a Quad 4 would be happy in?
>How about if there is any way to bolt one to a conventional (RWD)
>transmission?
>
>Just thinking out loud....
>
>Thanks,
>Terrill

Terrill

Many people have swapped a Quad 4 into a Fiero.  I personally had thought
that a, pardon my bad language here, Ch*vy Ch*v*tte with a 200+HP Quad 4
would make a killer sleeper! ;-)  Put a five speed behind the Quad4 and a
F*rd Nine Inch rear in it! Wow... I bet that would go like mad!  I really
don't know how heavy a car it could live in.  I do know that it was put into
some of the later model FWD Cutlass Supremes.

Cecil
1991 W-41
PidgLanger@aol.com
NotDads442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 20:00:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal

At 07:31 PM 3/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Does anyone know if the rear wheel arches of a '72 Vista Cruiser are the
>same as a comparable year Cutlass S? It's the only rust on the car, I would
>prefer to keep it all steel, and I haven't been able to find steel QP
>replacements for these wagons. (With the exception of some very poor panels
>sold through JC Whitney - they don't even come close to reproducing the
>angles in the wheel arch).
>
>Thanks!
>Glen
>Denver, CO
>

Glen

        Yes they are the same. They use the same wheel moldings and
everything.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:59:38 -0400
Subject: Re: When is Spring Carlisle?

Scott
   There are never any spots at Carlisle. I wrote to them and they put my
name on a lottery list and will pick names at 7Am each day for a max of two
spots. In otherwords you need to know someone to get places or buy them from
the present owners.
   Spring Carlisle is  April 16-19th


Everett

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 20:06:36 -0400
Subject: rear-end id. needed

  I bought a 12 bolt posi for my '69 4-4-2.  The owner removed it from a
parted out '69 HO and I had him look for the two letter code on the right
inboard axle tube but he wasn't able to find one so I took a chance and had
it shipped to me.  Well when I got it I started looking for the code and
found it, but it was on the right outboard side of the tube.  It is either
an SH or an HS depending how you look at it.  I checked my list for '69
codes and couldn't find either. So now I'm real curious as to what I have
here. According to my list if it were from a '69 HO the code should be either
a TO or a TY.
  Does anyone know what this might be?

Thanks,
Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 20:45:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal

Glen
  The wheel arches in the Vista's must be different because they use
different wheel opening moldings. They do look close though don't they.


Everett OCA ª 1961
71 Vista Cruiser & 72 Vista Cruiser (parts car)

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 00:07:02 -0400
Subject: 69 442 CONV.

DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND OUT HOW MANY 69 442 CONV. WHERE MADE
WITH A CERTAIN COLOR COMBINATION?  ARE THERE ANY PLACES THAT BREAK DOWN
PRODUCTION CODES ANY FURTHER THAN BODY STYLES?  I HAVE A GOLD "WITH BLACK
STRIPES" AND GOLD INTERIOR 442 CONV.  THANKS

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:48:59 -0400
Subject: Re: F88 for sale!

In a message dated 97-03-17 14:24:48 EST, you write:

> the original '56 F88 Golden Rocket show car is for sale.

Now wait here,

The F88 is actually a '54, two-seater, looks like a Corvette, convertible.

The Golden Rocket is a '56, two-seater, looks like a rocket ship, closed
coupe.

These are two different cars.

I'd be interested in the GR, but not the F88, I need a top in case it
rains...

Paul

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave J Paulison)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 22:22:25 -0400
Subject: I've returned

Hey folks,

I've been off the list for a week or so; I'm back with (another) new
email address.  If you send any email to me, please make a note of it.

------------------------------

From: FBrussee@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 22:33:27 -0400
Subject: Re: F88 for sale!

it's the 54 that's for sale in Deals on Wheels, April issue, page 14,
$425000.  Think they'd throw in a lid for it at that price???  Amazing.

------------------------------

From: disys@igs.net
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 22:40:31 -0400
Subject: Re: OOPS, plus additional mileage question - 307 Delta

I am amazed at your great mileage.  I joined a couple of weeks ago and have
been reading the mail and archives.  We have a 88 Buick Estate Wagon.
We can have never been able to get over 18 mpg (CDN).  I guess the weight
might have something to do with it but on highway I thought we could get at
least 20mpg.
Any ideas on getting better mileage.  We had a complete tune-up and I put in
a K$N Filter.  I've read about synthetic oils in read ends.  What about in
the tranny?
Would a lower restrictive exhaust work better for mile too?  I went to a
custom muffler shop.  The guy said ti would help but he said some day I
should get a bigger engine (350) with some mild mods.  Intake manifold, cam,
headers and dual exhaust.  The weight of the wagon needs a larger engine.
Any thoughts on that?

Great mailing list.  Good luck on the pilgramige to the Hall the wrecker.
I'm interested in finding some pictures of a Vista Cruiser. I've seen some
people listing them in their signatures.  Is that the wagon with the glass
room like the old Greyhound buses.

Richard
88 Buick Estate Woody Wagon



At 17:00 16/03/97 -0400, you wrote:
>First, 1 US gallon = .8326 Imperial Gallons
>
>My daily driver is 83 Olds 2 door 307 4sp auto. Under ideal conditions I
>get 22.5 mpg (27 mpg imperial) highway. Ideal is hot (85+ F), no wind,
>empty. Car seems to run on vapours when the weather is hot.
>
>I have a non standard rearend. 3.43? It was ordered to make it more
>drivable and I think it makes a difference. (Very nice setup for stop and
>go city driving too). This car feels like it floats on the highway under
>ideal conditions. Ideal speed for this set up I feel is around 65-70 mph in
>od.
>
>Average is 21 mpg (25 mpg imperial).
>
>But, give it a load or headwind and milage suffers badly. Hill climbing
>means manual shifting down to 3rd early regularily because otherwise
>transmission wants to lockup and lug a while before it will shift. I'd hate
>to tow a travel trailer.
>
>Worse ever: on a 1000 mile trip, 17 mpg (imperial) towing a small utility
>trailer (1500 lbs) in mountainous terrain, 32 F.
>
>
>BTW, my 76 350 3 spd Cutlass gets 19 mpg (23 mpg imperial) but much more
>consistently. Worsever: 11 mpg towing 1500 lbs in a moderate headwind at
>-30 F.
>
>1976 Cutlass S (1st owner)
>1976 Cutlass S (2nd owner)
>1983 Delta 88  (1st owner)
>
>Marvin Friesen
>Vancouver, BC, Canada
>----------
>> From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
>> To: Olds M List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Subject: OOPS, plus additional mileage question
>> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 8:51 AM
>>
>> MILEAGE QUESTION
>> My mom just bought a 1983 4dr delta-88,307 4spd overdrive.  The car runs
>> good, but not absolutely perfect, and the mileage under good conditions
>> is only a whopping <B>20</B> mpg.  Of course, with using a small engine
>> and od tranny to get the best mileage out of a car, mileage will fall off
>
>> under non-perfect driving (The 78 olds 88 that it replaced sat at about
>> 21, rain, shine, air conditioning, etc..)  But , I would like to ask the
>> experience of people similarly equipped, what roughly should this car
>> peak at for mpg's under good conditions (please note US or IMPERIAL
>> gallons).  Thanx
>>
>> EA~
>
>
>
disys@igs.net

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 22:45:17 -0400
Subject: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat

I need to replace the weatherstripping on my convertible top.  Year one
sells a 7 piece kit for $199.  Anybody have any experience with this
kit?  Is the price good?  Generally, what do I need to do to install
this weatherstripping?

I have another question about trunk mats...Year one states that the
original trunk matts were rubber.  Is this correct?

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "Samuel M. Watson" <smw@hal-pc.org>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 22:58:40 -0400
Subject: '67 Olds Rocket

How can I tell for sure what size engine my Delta 88 has in it?

Sam Watson
Crosby, Texas
smw@hal-pc.org

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 23:23:17 -0400
Subject: Re: '67 Olds Rocket

At 09:58 PM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>How can I tell for sure what size engine my Delta 88 has in it?

Two quick ways, assuming it's the original engine:

1) If there is a number (likely "3") cast into the lower-left corner of the
head, near the ª1 sparkplug, you've got a 330ci V-8. If there is a letter
(likely "C") there, you've got a 425ci V-8.

2) Measure the width of the very top of the intake manifold: if it is 12"
wide, you've got a 330; if it is 14", you've got a 425.

If it's not the original engine, or if things have been changed around, then
you have to resort to casting numbers and codes; check the FAQ for these
details.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave J Paulison)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 23:24:51 -0400
Subject: '67 Delmont

Will the people who were interested in parts from the '67 Delmont 88
contact me privately please?  I've changed email software and don't have
any of my old messages.

Thanks!


Dave Paulison                              1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                          1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 23:24:12 -0400
Subject: Re: '67 Olds Rocket

At 09:58 PM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>How can I tell for sure what size engine my Delta 88 has in it?

BTW, I'd bet my shorts that it has the 425ci V-8.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Ed Rogers <rhubarb@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 00:06:39 -0400
Subject: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

<fontfamily><param>Geneva</param><bigger><bigger>Hi all,


I am a long time lurker and owner (about 3 years) and finally have a

problem to throw at the group.  First, my car :


69 442 Convertible

73-76 455, J Heads (I know I know), Holley 650 single pump. Holley
Street

Dominator manifold, factory (for the year) electronic ignition

TH400 (fresh rebuild)


Problem 1:


The car has a hesitation whenever I tap the gas.  At any speed.  It
bogs

down for a split second and roars to life.  It does not matter if I am
at a

light or doing 70.  However, it does not do it when the car is in park

(under no load).  Then I can punch the pedal and all I hear is the
happy

sound of the back barrels opening up.  If I am very very gentle on the
gas I can get it to move without the stumble .. more so at highway
speed than at a stop.  I do not have to let off the pedal at all .. if
I mash it to the floor, it stumbles and recovers .. all without lifting
my (sometimes too heavy) foot.


Things I have checked :


1. Vacuum ... from the carb to the distributor .. using a vacuum gauge
that my dad has (and not being able to figure out the scale) it shows
very little vacuum at idle, then 50 "whatevers" at around 2000 rpm and
the needle is very steady.  Vacuum from the manifold to the
transmission is strong and steady as well.


2.  Timing ... this is a tricky one.  The timing is currently set by
"feel".  I only have the 1969 shop manuals and tried all the timing
specs I could find.  Found one that seemed right (I don't remember what
it was).  Fine tuned it so it started easy and ran well.  Does anybody
know the "right" number of degrees for this engine?


3.  Timing advance ... I pulled the distributor cap and sucked on the
timing advance hose .. the actuator seemed to move freely.


My original thought was that the carb was doing it (flooding itself,
the engine) but it seems that it would do that on the road or in park.


Phone lines are open .. CALL NOW !


Problem 2:


This weekend I put new tires and wheels on the car.  I used a set of
mid 80's Z-28 wheels. (Before all the flames I am going to get for
this, let me say that they actually look really good, much better than
the SS 1 wheels that were on it, they are 15", and they were FREE !!)
and BF Goodrich 235/60-15's.


Ride and handling are MUCH better but there is this "thunking" that has
appeared.  It does not happen all the time .. but most of the time.  I
am pretty sure it is the driveshaft just tapping the floor of the car.
If the car is moving and I bounce in the seat, I can make it do it.  I
can feel it on the "hump" behind the console.  And I can't make it
happen when the car is in "park".  It gets faster as the car gets
faster.  I am not sure what changed with the new tire/wheel combination
that would cause it to happen ... or what to do about it.


Any thoughts ?


Thanks for listening (in a virtual sense)


Ed


69 442 Convertible

88 Mazda RX-7 GXL

90 Mazda MX-6 LX (my wife's)



</bigger></bigger></fontfamily>

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 00:12:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat

At 10:45 PM 3/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I need to replace the weatherstripping on my convertible top.  Year one
>sells a 7 piece kit for $199.  Anybody have any experience with this
>kit?  Is the price good?  Generally, what do I need to do to install
>this weatherstripping?
>
>I have another question about trunk mats...Year one states that the
>original trunk matts were rubber.  Is this correct?
>
>-Dan


Dan

        Year One offers a set made by Soft Seal. I have not been pleased
with these due to the fact they are made too stiff. Metro Molded of
Minneapolis makes a much better set of seals. Their's fit better and are
softer making for less adjustment. Their address and number is:

Metro Molded11610 Jay St.
P O Box 48130
MInneapolis, Minn. 55448
1-800-878-2237

P.S Their prices are much better also.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

>

------------------------------

From: Olds455cut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 00:13:50 -0400
Subject: Fwd: your 455(cont)

Tips;
*drain trans and engine oil.
*drain coolant
*remove fan
*remove the radiator and shroud
*disconnect-trans linkage
                  -ground straps on the head
                  -engine harness wires
                  -throttle linkage
*you might have to remove the trans support
*fuel hose

I am sure that I am forgetting a few things, but it shouldn't be to hard.

- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:todorovb@cadvision.com (IT)
To:Olds455cut@aol.com
Date: 97-03-17 00:40:47 EST

Which engine and tranny did you have before?  And also, how much difference
was it putting a 455 in.  It is a big job as I have never done it before
and would have to remove it from the old car and put it in a new one.  Do
you think it is worth it?  todorovb@cadvision.com

------------------------------

From: pete <pete@img.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 20:40:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

chech the accelarator pump adjustment..it may not be injecting the fuel
on acceleration..mine did that..


Pete



At 12:06 AM 3/18/97 -0400, you wrote:

>>>>

<excerpt><fontfamily><param>Geneva</param><bigger><bigger>Hi all,


I am a long time lurker and owner (about 3 years) and finally have a

problem to throw at the group.  First, my car :


69 442 Convertible

73-76 455, J Heads (I know I know), Holley 650 single pump. Holley
Street

Dominator manifold, factory (for the year) electronic ignition

TH400 (fresh rebuild)


Problem 1:


The car has a hesitation whenever I tap the gas.  At any speed.  It
bogs

down for a split second and roars to life.  It does not matter if I am at
a

light or doing 70.  However, it does not do it when the car is in park

(under no load).  Then I can punch the pedal and all I hear is the
happy

sound of the back barrels opening up.  If I am very very gentle on the
gas I can get it to move without the stumble .. more so at highway speed
than at a stop.  I do not have to let off the pedal at all .. if I mash
it to the floor, it stumbles and recovers .. all without lifting my
(sometimes too heavy) foot.


Things I have checked :


1. Vacuum ... from the carb to the distributor .. using a vacuum gauge
that my dad has (and not being able to figure out the scale) it shows
very little vacuum at idle, then 50 "whatevers" at around 2000 rpm and
the needle is very steady.  Vacuum from the manifold to the transmission
is strong and steady as well.


2.  Timing ... this is a tricky one.  The timing is currently set by
"feel".  I only have the 1969 shop manuals and tried all the timing specs
I could find.  Found one that seemed right (I don't remember what it
was).  Fine tuned it so it started easy and ran well.  Does anybody know
the "right" number of degrees for this engine?


3.  Timing advance ... I pulled the distributor cap and sucked on the
timing advance hose .. the actuator seemed to move freely.


My original thought was that the carb was doing it (flooding itself, the
engine) but it seems that it would do that on the road or in park.


Phone lines are open .. CALL NOW !


Problem 2:


This weekend I put new tires and wheels on the car.  I used a set of mid
80's Z-28 wheels. (Before all the flames I am going to get for this, let
me say that they actually look really good, much better than the SS 1
wheels that were on it, they are 15", and they were FREE !!) and BF
Goodrich 235/60-15's.


Ride and handling are MUCH better but there is this "thunking" that has
appeared.  It does not happen all the time .. but most of the time.  I am
pretty sure it is the driveshaft just tapping the floor of the car.  If
the car is moving and I bounce in the seat, I can make it do it.  I can
feel it on the "hump" behind the console.  And I can't make it happen
when the car is in "park".  It gets faster as the car gets faster.  I am
not sure what changed with the new tire/wheel combination that would
cause it to happen ... or what to do about it.


Any thoughts ?


Thanks for listening (in a virtual sense)


Ed


69 442 Convertible

88 Mazda RX-7 GXL

90 Mazda MX-6 LX (my wife's)



</bigger></bigger></fontfamily>






</excerpt><<<<<<<<






               ~\\ ! //~

                +(o o)+

 *--pete--.o00o.--( )--.o00o.--pete--*


 ******     Pete Berisoff      *******

 *      Penticton, B.C. Canada,      *

 (<<:)       1(604)492-6349       (>:o)

 *******    pete@awinc.com     *******

 *******     pete@img.net      *******

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 00:27:52 -0400
Subject: 69 H/O Rear Code

To Whoever posted the question:

        What does the rear axle code SH signify. My 69 an 70 Service Manuals
show this to be a 3.42:1 Anti-Spin Axle avail in 3600-4400 series cars.
That's Cutlass all the way to a 442. Looks like he didn't shaft you
afterall. That was the std rear for the 69 H/O.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: James244@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 00:43:04 -0400
Subject: Re: rear-end id. needed

hey Glen,
the SH code is a 3.42 posi code.

James Newton
69 442
86 442

------------------------------

From: Melissa Dawn Barberree <mdbarb@whale.st.usm.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 01:21:32 -0400
Subject: Subscriber Info Needed

Sorry for any inconvenience, but I want to resubscribe to the Olds Mailing
List, and need the subscriber address.


Thanx!

Luke

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 01:22:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

At 11:06 PM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I am a long time lurker and owner (about 3 years) and finally have a
>problem to throw at the group.  First, my car :
>
>69 442 Convertible
>73-76 455, J Heads (I know I know), Holley 650 single pump. Holley Street
>Dominator manifold, factory (for the year) electronic ignition
>TH400 (fresh rebuild)
>
>Problem 1:
>
>The car has a hesitation whenever I tap the gas.  At any speed.  It bogs
>down for a split second and roars to life.  It does not matter if I am at a

Aside from the accelerator pump, are you running too soft a spring in the
vacuum secondaries? I know that it's not as easy to adjust as a quadrajet,
but that could be one source of the bog.

>Problem 2:
>
>This weekend I put new tires and wheels on the car.  I used a set of mid
80's Z-28 wheels.
...
>Ride and handling are MUCH better but there is this "thunking" that has
appeared.  It does not happen all the time .. but most of the time.  I am
pretty sure it is the driveshaft just tapping the floor of the car.  If the
car is moving and I bounce in the seat, I can make it do it.  I can feel it
on the "hump" behind the console.  And I can't make it happen when the car
is in "park".  It gets faster as the car gets faster.  I am not sure what
changed with the new tire/wheel combination that would cause it to happen
... or what to do about it.
>
>Any thoughts ?

Hmmmm. One thing: did you use the correct taper lugnuts? The conical lugnuts
on the mid-80's cars used a different taper than the earlier lugnuts, but
you can't simply use the lugnuts with the proper taper from the mid-80's,
because of course they have a metric thread. There are lug-nuts out there
made specifically with the SAE thread and the newer-style taper. I mention
this, because it's possible that your lugnuts aren't staying tight, and your
wheels are flopping around a bit.

Aside from that, how is your shock clearance? Do the wider tires rub their
inner sidewall against the frame rails or inner wheelwells? How is your
exhaust clearance?

I'd suspect it isn't the driveshaft, since it's relationship to the floorpan
is established by the springs and suspension control arms, not the height of
the tires, so changing the tires shouldn't cause it to contact anything new.
Is it a constant, repetetive thunking noise, or is it an occasional bump or
thunk?

One final thing; it could be a bad belt in the tire. Swap the tires front to
rear, and see if it goes away, or moves around.

OK, now this is *really* the final thing: Some Z-28 wheel setups used
different offsets on the front and rear tires. Have you tried swappin the
tires around, to see which tires have the best clearance?

Alright, I lied above; this is the absolute final thing: Perhaps the thump
you hear is really just road noise, transmitted through the stiffer sidewall
of your 15" tire? That would just be a condition of driving with low-profile
tires.

Good luck finding the cause of this; let us know what it was.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Melissa Dawn Barberree <mdbarb@whale.st.usm.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 01:49:09 -0400
Subject: THE ELUSIVE 455 FORGED CRANK...

Well, I'm glad to be back on the mailing list after my brief stint a few
months ago.  In the meantime:


1.  I've bought a 1968 455 short block.

2.  Said short block contains first three VIN numbers 3 = Olds, 8 = '68, and
    x = ???  I don't know which plant this was manufactured at.  Can anyone
    help?


3.  The ID numbers denote that it's a 455:  396021F.

4.  The crank in it is supposed to be the forged 455 steel crank; numbers
    off the rear throw are 400943.  Did the 400 CID have the same numbered
    crank?


Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Luke


------------------------------

From: Ed Rogers <rhubarb@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 02:10:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

>>The car has a hesitation whenever I tap the gas.  At any speed.  It bogs
>>down for a split second and roars to life.  It does not matter if I am at a
>
>Aside from the accelerator pump, are you running too soft a spring in the
>vacuum secondaries? I know that it's not as easy to adjust as a quadrajet,
>but that could be one source of the bog.
>

The accelerator pump has been replaced.  Did not seem to help the problem.
Could be the secondary spring .. would this cause the hesitation only under
load, or all the time.


>>Problem 2:
>>
>>This weekend I put new tires and wheels on the car.  I used a set of mid
>80's Z-28 wheels.
>...
>>Ride and handling are MUCH better but there is this "thunking" that has
>appeared.  It does not happen all the time .. but most of the time.  I am
>pretty sure it is the driveshaft just tapping the floor of the car.  If the
>car is moving and I bounce in the seat, I can make it do it.  I can feel it
>on the "hump" behind the console.  And I can't make it happen when the car
>is in "park".  It gets faster as the car gets faster.  I am not sure what
>changed with the new tire/wheel combination that would cause it to happen
>... or what to do about it.
>>
>>Any thoughts ?
>
>Hmmmm. One thing: did you use the correct taper lugnuts? The conical lugnuts
>on the mid-80's cars used a different taper than the earlier lugnuts, but
>you can't simply use the lugnuts with the proper taper from the mid-80's,
>because of course they have a metric thread. There are lug-nuts out there
>made specifically with the SAE thread and the newer-style taper. I mention
>this, because it's possible that your lugnuts aren't staying tight, and your
>wheels are flopping around a bit.

Yup, right taper with the older threads.  I had already been warned about
this.

>
>Aside from that, how is your shock clearance? Do the wider tires rub their
>inner sidewall against the frame rails or inner wheelwells? How is your
>exhaust clearance?

Clearance is not a problem .. plenty of room front and back.
>
>I'd suspect it isn't the driveshaft, since it's relationship to the floorpan
>is established by the springs and suspension control arms, not the height of
>the tires, so changing the tires shouldn't cause it to contact anything new.
>Is it a constant, repetitive thunking noise, or is it an occasional bump or
>thunk?

This is what I thought too.  Bigger wheels raise up the whole car, no angle
should change.  But it started as I was driving away from the shop that put
the new tires on.  It was noticeable right away.  And I can only make the
sound happen when the driveshft is turning (i.e.,. it won't do it in Park)
When it starts, it is pretty constant, dependant more on speed than RPM,
road conditions do not seem to affect the noise (or feel).  I thought it
might be the exhaust pipes tapping, but they appear to be free and clear.

Another thought on the cause is that then the tires were put on, the entire
car was lifted by the frame, and all four wheels were unloaded from the
weight of the car.  Is it possible that something "popped" or fell out
(maybe a shim or something).  Unlikely, but something to consider.

>
>One final thing; it could be a bad belt in the tire. Swap the tires front to
>rear, and see if it goes away, or moves around.

I will check this out this weekend ... but would the thump be intermittent
if a belt were thrown.  I would think it would thump all the time, at any
speed.
>
>OK, now this is *really* the final thing: Some Z-28 wheel setups used
>different offsets on the front and rear tires. Have you tried swapping the
>tires around, to see which tires have the best clearance?

See above.  The more I think about it, I think the wheels are early 80's.
Don't know if this makes a difference on the offset thing.  My dad had them
on his 79 Hurst Olds.  They are painted gold. (As a side note, my first
car, a 75 Nova LN had the 15" Olds SSII looking wheels from a 77 Cutlass ..
the exact wheels that I now want for my 442 !)

>Alright, I lied above; this is the absolute final thing: Perhaps the thump
>you hear is really just road noise, transmitted through the stiffer sidewall
>of your 15" tire? That would just be a condition of driving with low-profile
>tires.

Nope, does it on all kinds of roads, even slowly pulling into my driveway.

Looks like I have some new things to check out this weekend.  Thanks !!

Ed

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 02:16:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 1901 Curved Dash Olds

A while back, I posted a note about the 1901 CDO kit, what magizine
it was in (i believe it was mechanix illustrated from aroun 1961), where
you could send for the prints to build one (in MI), and the motor they
used in the reproduction cars (from a cushman scooter).

I can find the magizine or my post on here... if anyone has a copy of my
origional post, I am sure it will help this guy out!


- --jj

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 02:33:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

   If all else fails try richening your idle fuel mixture.
At low speeds and tip in off of idle your carbureter will run partly off of
the idle mixture  system --- if there isn't enough fuel getting to your
engine you will get a slight bog or flutter just off idle --- you could also
try advancing your timing a tiny bit --- it will increase the vacuum signal
to the idle circuite and give your carbureter a little bit better pull on the
fuel mixture through the vacuum drop when you open the primary throttle
blades.

          Hope that helps,

                                     J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 08:56:50 -0400
Subject: Re: 1901 Curved Dash Olds

FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu wrote:
>
> ... if anyone has a copy of my origional post, I am sure it will help
> this guy out!

Here ya go...

> Mechanix Illustrated:  September 1961 p.116,  they gave an address to
> write to to get the plans to build one.  it says:

> "Want to build this car?  Send five dollars to Mechanix Illustrated
> Plans Service, Greenwhich, Conn., and ask for --Oldsmobile, Plan Number
> 1901."

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 06:29:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat

On Mon, 17 Mar 1997, Dan Williams wrote:
> I need to replace the weatherstripping on my convertible top.  Year one
> sells a 7 piece kit for $199.  Anybody have any experience with this
> kit?  Is the price good?  Generally, what do I need to do to install
> this weatherstripping?

I did this a couple of years ago on my '64. Paid $169 for Metro's kit.
It's a good kit and fit perfectly. All that was involved was unscrewing
the old stuff and screwing on the new stuff... easy. The front header
seal came with nylon mounting studs preinstalled that snapped into holes
in the header. Don't know about the SoffSeal kit.

> I have another question about trunk mats...Year one states that the
> original trunk matts were rubber.  Is this correct?

Apparently. I think they were a green color with a black houndstooth
(that's what I bought for mine) though gray/black are also available.
They changed to a fiber mat a year or so later. If you use one of these
rubber ones, don't bother splatter-painting the floor under the mat,
because the splatter paint will rub off and dissolve under the mat in no
time (at least mine did, despite using the clear coat over the paint that
was recommended). If I were to do it again I think I'd use a generic paint
that is a little tougher, since it isn't visible anyway.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 03:01:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat

Dan Williams wrote:
>
> I need to replace the weatherstripping on my convertible top.  Year one
> sells a 7 piece kit for $199.  Anybody have any experience with this
> kit?  Is the price good?  Generally, what do I need to do to install
> this weatherstripping?
>
> I have another question about trunk mats...Year one states that the
> original trunk matts were rubber.  Is this correct?
>
> -Dan

Dan

I need to replace the weatherstripping on my convertible too.  I am
curious about advice on this issue.  The trunk is a thin rubber
impregnated material w/a print on the top side to make the gray & black
design.  It is not a foam backed material.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: GARY RUBRICH <RUBRICH@bwaafs.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 09:33:07 -0400
Subject: 307 OLDS INFO

Hey Brad,

  My name is Gary Rubrich and I'm an avid Olds enthusiast,
especially small blocks. I believe I have the articles you are
looking for on the 307 buildup and the SS/GTK Olds cutlass. I
also have a friend who raced NHRA stock & super stock with a 307
cutlass and has some parts he is interested in getting rid of .
 His car in L/SA went 12.20's and in SS went 11.60's. Let me know
if your interested.


                                                   Gary Rubrich
                                                   72 442 350

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 09:35:04 -0400
Subject: (Non-Olds) end of the line

This is in response to the thread last week regarding the demise of the
T-Bird.

A friend o' mine attends Tuck Business School at Dartmouth; F*rd does a lot
of recruiting there, so he's up on current events in ol' Henry's Co.:


Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

- ----- Begin Included Message -----

Ford to Discontinue Four Vehicles

LORAIN, Ohio (Reuter) - Ford Motor Co. will shut down its Thunderbird
and Cougar car assembly line here as
part of a plan to kill off four slow-selling vehicles by the end of the
1997 model year.

In addition to confirming the widely anticipated retirement of the
Thunderbird and Cougar mid-size coupes, Ford
said it will discontinue the Ford Probe sport coupe and the Ford
Aerostar minivan.

But Ford said the Thunderbird will be resurrected as a new specialty
sports coupe that harkens back to its glory
days in the 1950s. It will be developed from a new multi-vehicle
platform and built at an undisclosed site.

"Our intent is to restore the Thunderbird magic and return the vehicle
to the charismatic, specialty vehicle it once
was," Nasser said, adding that Ford has not made any decisions on the
future of the Mercury Cougar name.


- ----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 09:18:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems

Let me see if I can shed some light on this or confuse you more.  Your
choice!
Hesitation:  More than likely it is a too soft spring on your
secondaries causing this.  Also the Street Dominator is a single plane,
ie. open plenum, intake.  I have one on my car and I have no vacuum at
idle.  That can cause a hesitation under load.  I switched from a Holley
carb to a Quadrajet and have eliminated all of my hesitation.

Thumping:  Check your transmission mount.  If it starts separating, it
can cause the sound you describe when the tail of the transmission and
/or the front u-joint hits the hump.  Ben there, done that.  I ended up
going to a solid rear mount (not recomended) so I would stop breaking
them.  I have a four speed and it was real hard on them.  There are some
new poly-urethane mounts out that look promising.  I think they are
engineered not to totaly seperate.

Just my $.02
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 10:04:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator

At 01:48 PM 3/17/97 -0400, Robert Valentine wrote:

<snip>

>Converting externally regulated GM alternators (pre-'71) to internally
>regulated post-71 alternators is a relativly easy affair.   This is also a
>necessasary conversion before/during a HEI or other electronic igniton
>conversion.    Also nice if you get stuck in the middle of nowhere
>and need parts --  10/12SI units are much more common these days...

<excellent description of preccess snipped>

Thanks a bunch Robert.  That description was VERY good; even a software
engineer like me should be able to foolw your instructions!


Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 10:07:47 -0400
Subject: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability

This is just a suggestion to those on the list who have later-model Olds cars
that are or could possibly become rare collector cars.  Start buying the
parts to restore your car now. I've only been on this list for a short time
but have already seen posts from people with cars that are barely 10 years
old who cannot find parts/trim pieces/emblems and sticker packages.  Those of
you who own 90-91 442s, W-41s and 92 and up SCX Achievas are you listening?
 Even those with the I-Series Calais and Supremes.  Your cars are 5+ years
old now.  The sticker packages/emblems for these cars are expensive right
now.  Imagine what they will cost in 20 years, if they are available at all.

I have already started buying up all the silver decals and emblems for my
1991 W-41.  The next parts on my list are the factory spoiler and the engine
ignition cover that says W-41 on it.  I might even begin looking for a set of
factory wheels since I've seen what the originals for some of the late 60's
and 70's cars are going for now.

If you think your car will not be involved in an accident just ask Chris if
he thought it would happen to him.  I don't intend to spread doom and gloom
I'm just being realistic.

Well I've used enough bandwidth for today...

Cecil
1991 W-41
NotDads442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Kenneth G. Holland Jr." <rottin@coil.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 10:08:48 -0400
Subject: Re: 455/parts for Sale DC area

Matthew Butler wrote:

> So here is what I have:

> - Offy Tunnel Ram Intake
> - Mallory Dual Point Distributer

> Thanks,
>
> Matt Butler

Hey Matt,

  Whats your email address?  I'm interested in the parts above.

rottin@coil.com

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 09:51:53 -0400
Subject: Edelbrock Torker intake

I am still finishing my rebuild.  I bought a used torker manifold that I'm
getting ready to put on.  The manifold is 1-3/4" taller than stock, so I'm
thinking about replacing the 350 mounts with the 455 engine mounts and
frame pads(You guys told me they would set the engine 1" lower).  Are these
readily available?  Also on the intake, the holes for the bolts don't have
a lot of clearance around them to get a wrench on, or even the bolt head.
Do I have to buy allen head bolts or something?  One more thing.  The
radiator was in front of a 350.  Is it big enough, or should I be looking
for more cooling.

Thanks,
Dave

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 03:19:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance

Craig J. Smith wrote:
>
> I am acquiring classic car insurance and have applications for Condon &
> Skelly and American Collectors Insurance, Inc.  Does anyone have any
> advice or had any trouble with either of these.
>
> Thanks
>
> Craig Smith
> 68 442 conv.

Craig,

I thought that Classic was a little high & restrictive; especialy in
mileage.  I don't know about condon & Skelly but they seem to have a
great reputation.  I use Hagerty but have no experience w/a claim.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 10:52:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat

Dan Williams wrote:
>
> I need to replace the weatherstripping on my convertible top.  Year one
> sells a 7 piece kit for $199.  Anybody have any experience with this
> kit?  Is the price good?  Generally, what do I need to do to install
> this weatherstripping?

Let me know what you find out.  I am planning on getting some too.

> I have another question about trunk mats...Year one states that the
> original trunk matts were rubber.  Is this correct?

Well I have a trunk mat in my car, beat up of course, that is a
vinyl/rubber
grey/black houndstooth (? name) pattern.  If a trunk mat was all rubber
like
they state it would had to have been an option.  Let me check ...  Ok it
wasn't
an option so I don't know if their statement is true.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 10:57:27 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Rear Code

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:

>         What does the rear axle code SH signify. My 69 an 70 Service Manuals
> show this to be a 3.42:1 Anti-Spin Axle avail in 3600-4400 series cars.

> That's Cutlass all the way to a 442. Looks like he didn't shaft you
> afterall. That was the std rear for the 69 H/O.

When I had my car up on a platform, looking at the accident damage,
I looked around for the blasted axle codes.  Couldn't find it anywhere.
I guess they must have been worn away.  I dunno.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 08:31:02 -0400
Subject: Re: '67 Delmont

Dave J Paulison wrote:
>
> Will the people who were interested in parts from the '67 Delmont 88
> contact me privately please?

BTW, I've got access to a very good '67 Delmont parts car.  Perfect rear
bumper, 2 out of 3 grills are great, dash intact, glass intact, most
body panels good.  The only things missing from the engine bay are the
air cleaner assembly and the radiator.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:09:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability

NotDads442@aol.com wrote:

> If you think your car will not be involved in an accident just ask Chris if
> he thought it would happen to him.  I don't intend to spread doom and gloom
> I'm just being realistic.

I had been driving for 17 years without incident.  I may have been a
little
cocky thinking that I wouldn't be involved in an accident.  Boy was I
wrong!
I am driving my L*nc*ln TC and I drive like an elderly person.  Being in
an
accident sure wakens you up.  I agree that if anyone is planning to keep
a
car for long periods of time, you need to find as much parts as you can
in
case you need to replace them.  Once these parts are crushed (yes I did
use
the "c" word) they are gone forever....

Later

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:12:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question

Steve-Good used sheetmetal is both a fallacy and a lesson in false economy.
 Most 70-72 fenders are rusted pretty bad.  Arizona cars usually have air and
that means the pass. side fenders are usually rusted out due to the
condensation from the air con. unit.  If your a body man, or you are doing
your own (non metalic) paint and bodywork,  go with used.  If you pay good
money for your paint and bodywork,  replace those rusty fenders with some NOS
pieces- you will be glad you did in the long run!

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:00:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"

R. Barry wrote:
>If it is so complete, why would you want to part it out?

If you could see the car, you would know why I would part it out.  The
body is pretty tired, and it is not something I'm interested in
restoring.  My next project will be a Toronado.  The W30 in question is
a battered, very light yellowish-white (Parchment?), which is a hideous
color, and it has a tannish-color vinyl top.  If I restored it, I would
never paint it the original color, so there would go its value as a show
car.   I was amazed that it is relatively complete, considering 160K
miles are on the clock.   I already own a '70, so some of the parts on
this car would go into my inventory (particularly the mint OAI hood,
which appears to be flawless) for spares, and some would have to go on
the block to pay for the car. So what am I supposed to do, part out my
very solid  '70 442 to afford the restoration of a dented/trashed
interior/slightly rusty (but still complete) '70 W30?

>Well, aside from the profit motive, there aren't any more original W-30's
being built, >and this would be one less for posterity.

Ooh, I feel like I'm being vilified here.  Remember that it's a car, not
the Mona Lisa.  Like performing triage, this one may have to be declared
beyond saving so that I can spend my time on my current '70, which has a
better chance of surviving for posterity.  If I don't get the car, then
odds are it'll go to the bone yard.  If you want to buy it outright,
email me (r_mullen@merck.com) with your offer.  Or, just send $10,000
and I'll restore the car for posterity.


>(though I suppose you could argue that
>its spirit would live on in the fake W-30 that could be built from its
>parts... but then what's the point).

I beg to differ.  A "fake" W30 that is assembled by an enthusiast,  with
loving care and craftsmanship that far outstrips the original assembly
line effort, is just as much of a tribute to the Olds name as a
butt-ugly "correct" original W30.  Besides, maybe its spirit would live
on in a genuine W30 that needs just an OAI air cleaner to be show-ready.


>Wouldn't an entire car be worth more than the parts alone, especially since
>some of the W-30 specific stuff is gone already? After all, what can you
>sell the shell of stripped W-30 442 for?

According to my price guide, the car (which I rate Condition 5,  one
step above a stripped parts car) books at $3000.  In my estimation, it
would require $8000-$10,000 to restore it (as well as 3-4 years of my
time).  When I was finished, the car might be worth $10,000.  There is a
1972 442 W30 4-speed (with every option I know of, including the
ultra-rare dual disc clutch) parked 10 miles from where I'm sitting,
and the owner is asking  $11,500, and after 4 months the car is still
for sale.  I was tempted to sell my '70 and buy this car, but the owner
was so obnoxious that I couldn't deal with him, and I'm very attached to
my car.  The fact is, there is only a small market for  442's.  The
market for the parts, however, is vast.  Since I am not made of money, I
have to bow to the demands of the marketplace.

Knowing that I'll have spare grilles, fenders, OAI hood and frame in my
garage will enable me to drive my current car more frequently with less
fear of some loser hitting me and putting my car out of commission.
Like you, I would love to restore this car and have it to enjoy.
However, economic reality and the condition of the car dictates that it
is either buy it (and part it) or lose out on it forever.  What would
you do in my shoes?

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:22:06 -0400
Subject: Re: THE ELUSIVE 455 FORGED CRANK...

At 12:49 AM 3/18/97 -0500, you wrote:
>1.  I've bought a 1968 455 short block.
[snip]
>4.  The crank in it is supposed to be the forged 455 steel crank; numbers
>    off the rear throw are 400943.  Did the 400 CID have the same numbered
>    crank?

Two ways to tell a forged crank:

1) Parting line. Wide=forged, Thin=cast

2) Notch in rear flywheel mounting flange.

   L-shaped=forged
   U-shaped=cast
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:52:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Weatherstripping and 68 Trunkmat

Dan-Brothers Auto sells the top weatherstip kit for $189.00.  Made by Metro
Moulded Rubber the package states they have a 15 year warranty but Brothers
will stand behind them for life.  Metro's product is made of EPDM -a very
high quality  environmentally protected ozone resistant rubber that should
last for the life of your car.  The Year One w/strips are cheap taiwonese
rubber reproductions, made by Fusick.  The metal inserts were STICKING OUT OF
THE WEATHERSTRIPS I received.  I got the YO ones because they were cheap but
returned them because they were junk.   I got the Metro ones from Brothers as
they had the best price, ($40 cheaper than direct from Metro!)  and they
shipped the same day.  Now I am air tight to 90mph plus.  Hope this helps!
 PS  The original trunk mat in my '68 H/O is rubber.

------------------------------

From: BBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:59:26 -0400
Subject: Where are the digests?

     To All:

     I'm on the digest and didn't receive ª561 and ª562 over the weekend.
     Could someone e-mail me directly with their location?  I'm getting
     ready to do the alt. conversion and don't want to miss anything.

     Thanks,

     Bob Braden
     bbraden@qualitybio.com
     Hockessin, DE
     71 442
     72 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:09:44 -0400
Subject: Exhaust Tips

I know there was some talk about the exhaust tips about 1-2 months ago,
but I can't find the info.  It seemed that everyone was pleased with the
Napa tips.  I believe they were around $45.  Anybody know they part
number?  Most mail order places want around $60.  Also, I have one post
where somebody mentioned they were still available from walker for
around $20.  Anybody know how I can get them from Walker?

Thanks,

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "JOHN L. BERENYI" <berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:21:43 -0400
Subject: For Sale 1967 Olds Cutlass

Originally champagne gold with a white top but its now all white.  The
330 cu engine is rebuilt and so is the 2 speed Jetaway tranny.  Interior
is the stunning cameo ivory and has the bench seat option with the auto
on the column.  Yes it is a 2 dr hdtp.  Great car for $2800.  Located in
Allen/Plano, Texas. Can call me at home at 972-727-4414 or work at
214-956-6020.

Thanks,

John Berenyi

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª565
********************************
