oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca 
02/09/97 11:42 PM
To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #509


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, 10 February 1997      Volume 01 : Number 509

Re: C.I.D. math
Re: Is it a W30
Re: Is it a W30
Re: C.I.D. math
Quadrqajets
Re: C.I.D. math
Re: Divorce
Re: Quadrqajets
Re: rake
Re: C.I.D. math
Re: Quadrqajets
What do I have?
Re: What do I have?
any idea on this one?
Re: What do I have?
oldsmobile parts
1979 Hurst Olds
A Good Day For Olds
Too many is what I have!!!
Quadrajet II
Re: oldsmobile parts
[Fwd: A Good Day For Olds]
Looking for early style SSI
Re: C.I.D. math
Re: What do I have?
Re: [Fwd: A Good Day For Olds]
Re: What do I have?
Re: A Good Day For Olds
Re: rake
Re: What do I have?
Re: oldsmobile parts
Re: C.I.D. math
Re: oldsmobile parts
Re: any idea on this one?
Re: oldsmobile parts
Re: any idea on this one?
Re: any idea on this one?
Re: any idea on this one?
Re: any idea on this one?
Re: Ouch goes the Rockit  :(
Re: yet another muff question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 11:52:38 -0400
Subject: Re: C.I.D. math

1000 divided by 16.39 is approximate

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 11:53:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Is it a W30

Ed,
The four speed would be the same as in a 442. Nothing to identify it as a W30
transmission.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: OldsDr@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 12:24:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Is it a W30

It has to bo built in lansing,  aluminum intake, if auto it will have an OW
transmission(tag attached to side of transmission),

------------------------------

From: "Verkleeren" <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 12:37:06 -0400
Subject: Re: C.I.D. math

i have question for all the CID Math people!!

what happens to the displacement of a motor if you decide
to put dome pistons in????

Does it change your cubic inches?

what about dish pistons?

Do you gain some cubes?

Just curious
Jeff

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 07:22:09 -0400
Subject: Quadrqajets

Everyone,

I have been threatening to post this for at least a month.  This is the
day.  It is a copy of an article from W-Machines of December 1984.  The
author['s name is not mentioned in the article.  Some graphics are
mentioned which I can supply privately.

			Quality Quadrajets

	            [Graphic of 2 Quadrajets]

Quadrajets - most stock 4-barrel Olds's come equipped with one, yet most
of us are reluctant to touch them, even when it comes to a simple
rebuild.  Why?  Mostly because it is the least talked about, least
understood carburetor mounted on cars.  4M, 4MC, 4MV, M4M; all these
silly numbers, lots of levers, vacuum lines, and other gizmos all
contribute to make that thing look overly complicated and impenetrable.

"Quadrabog", "Quadraslob"; these and other names which I can't mention,
all are used to describe what is actually a good performance/mileage
carb.  Most of the Q-Jet's bad reputation has resulted from the hot
rodder's "bolt on" approach and the availability of the popular Holley
carb.

So if the Q-Jet can be made into a good performance carb, how do we
start?  Well, we first must understand a little about how they are
different, and then we can use this knowledge to extract the excellent
performance and driveability that the carb is capable of.

The two babies up here [2 carb graphics at top of page] are 4MV (on
left) and 4MC (on right).  The nomenclature only indicates the choke
configuration.  The 4M has a manual choke, the 4MC has a choke on the
carb ('70 and later Olds) and the 4MV has teh choke housing onthe intake
('66-69).  The M4M is the emissions Q-Jet introduced in 1975, which has
had certain adjustability added in while some of the off-idle power
transition is taken out.  It can be made to deliver power, but the older
models will do a better job.

Basically, the carb is almost totally vacuum controlled, proper setting
of the signalling devices is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to ensure it will work
correctly.  This should be done BEFORE ANY CHANGES ARE MADE!  If you are
going to rebuild the carb, do this before you set it up.

For the rest of this article, we will assume that you are in the process
of rebuilding the carb as much of what you can do is done with the carb
apart.  Buy  a quality rebuilding kit and clean everything thoroughly
after disassembling the entire carb.  Lay all the pieces out and
familarize yourself with all of them.  I suggest that you have the Olds
Chassis Service Manual for your year carb or an aftermarket book on
Quadrajet rebuilding. [Rebuild kits usually have excellent diagrams
included.]

We'll go through the rebuilding steps while we explain how the Q-Jet
works.  This way, you'll learn how to fix it as well as what affects
what.  OK, let's get started.

With the carb disassembled, we have three major pieces: the base, the
float bowl, and the air horn (top of carb).  Put aside the base and the
air horn for now and grab the float bowl.  Most of what we are going to
do is going to happen in this baby, so start by turning it upside-down
and looking at the bottom.

           [Graphic of upturned float bowl]

FLOAT BOWL TURNED OVER: Arrows indicate main fuel casting wells.  These
MUST NOT LEAK [famous leaking wells] as they will draw raw fuel into the
manifold and ruin performance and idle.

You'll see four bumps sitcking up.  These are the casting wells for the
main fuel wells.  These are capped when the carb is make, but after a
while, they tend to crack and leak.  Mix up some epoxy and coat the tops
of these bumps, covering the pressed in plugs.  Set aside the float bowl
and let the epoxy dry.

Pick up the carb base and run a straight edge over it [both surfaces
mating to manifold  & float bowl].  If it is not straight, throw it
away.  Go junque yarde jaunting and aquire a bunch of used Q-Jets (I
should have told you this earlier) for similar years [good luck]
('66-67), ('68-69), ('70-72), ('73-74), ('75-80).  Check for
straightness and also check to see if the throttle butterflies open
without sticking or close properly.  The secondaries should open to
about 5 degrees of vertical, no more, no less.  Put the base aside and
pick up the now dried float bowl.

Turn the bowl right-side-up and peer into hole "B" in the picture at the
top to the page.  This is the power piston bore.  If you look real good
you'll see a little spring in there that you didn't take out when you
TOTALLY disassembled the carb.  You're forgiven, but use needle-nosed
pliers and remove it.  This baby controls the idle/of idle fuel mix, and
it is ot happi if you have changed the cam to a long duration type.
This is especially true for 350/403s.  Guys who have went the W-31
route, TAKE NOTICE!

       [Graphic of carb w/air horn removed viewed from top]

There are many power piston springs to choose from, but some of the
favorites I'll suggest are:
	7037851 - 72 W-30 very soft (lean)
	7029922 - 69 W-31 soft/medium
	7011967 - 69 W-30 medium
	7036019 - 70 W-30 auto stiff (rich)

Install the leanest first, run the car, and then try the next, and so
on.  Stay as lean as possible here as these springs affect idle more
than power.

Next, we'll work with the primary metering rods.  These are the skinny
littly guys which are stuck in the primary metering jets.

          [Graphic of primary & secondary metering rods]

They're attached to the power piston (which fits into the hole you
dropped the spring in).  No matter what set you have, go out and get the
following:

	7034840 - stamped 40B (richest)
	7034842 - stamped 42B
	7034844 - stamped 44B (most Oldsmobiles)
	7034846 - stamped 46B (leanest)

Again, start with your present rod and move richer to see if performance
improves.  If the car is "flat" on acceleration try leaner, then richer.

The next step is the primary jet.  These are the screw in babies in hole
"D". [see top view graphic w/air horn removed].  Here's the ones to hae
in your tool crib:
	7031969 - stamped 69 (leanest) mostly in 350s
	7031970 - stamped 70 1970 350 & 455
	7031971 - stamped 71 1966-68 all
	7031972 - stamped 72 1968-69 400 SMT
	7031973 - stamped 73
	7031974 - stamped 74 1968-69 W-31
	7031955 - stamped 75 1969-69 400 W-30/W-32

After getting the best results with the rods, start with one step leaner
jet (unless you already have a 69) and work up.

Obiously, we've been combining rebuilding with tuning in this article.
In reality you'd be rebuilding to stock specs first, trying the carb,
then going back inside and making changes.  This would hold true unless
you had changed to a radical cam at the same time.  Then you should have
replaced the power piston spring with a leaner unit.  This is because
the power piston is controlled by vacuum and big cams make less vacuum,
hence a softer spring.  The steps from now on SHOULD BE MADE NO MATTER
WHAT.


This is nearly half the article.  I'll continue this piece later if
there is interest.  My new born grandaughter is calling.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:03:26 -0400
Subject: Re: C.I.D. math

as far as i understand it displacement of an engine is the swept volume of
the cylinder times the number of cylinders you have in your engine.  Meaning
no matter what kind of dome you have on the piston given the stroke of the
engine it will always travel the same distance a a dished flattop or dished
piston, the bore of the enigne is a constant also unless somebody has
invented a variable bore reciprocating engine. the only thing a dome does is
reduce the displacement of your cumbustion chamber thus an increase of  your
compression ratio.

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:21:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Divorce

>> Joe, I have been through it, I also had a vindictive ex. I won't go into
all >> the details, I just wanted you to know that there ARE very good women
out >> there.  It's like trying to find a '66 factory W-30, but it can be
done.



>And, better yet, there are very good women out there who love Oldsmobiles!


Yup, and as long as they didn't get their Olds's from their ex-husbands,
you'd be in good shape :)

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:21:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Quadrqajets

Hey, Bill.  Great stuff (as always)  Anyone know about OEM/aftermarket
availability of these items?  Ha-Ha-Holley has their trick kits and such, I
imagine in someone came up with a set of these springs, rods, jets, etc,
they'd be a good item for us on the list.  (I'm guessing the second half
addresses the secondary rods?  Oh, and there is interest in the second part
of it...  Thanks.



>There are many power piston springs to choose from, but some of the
>favorites I'll suggest are:
>	7037851 - 72 W-30 very soft (lean)
>	7029922 - 69 W-31 soft/medium
>	7011967 - 69 W-30 medium
>	7036019 - 70 W-30 auto stiff (rich)
>
>	7034840 - stamped 40B (richest)
>	7034842 - stamped 42B
>	7034844 - stamped 44B (most Oldsmobiles)
>	7034846 - stamped 46B (leanest)
>
  Here's the ones to have in your tool crib:
>	7031969 - stamped 69 (leanest) mostly in 350s
>	7031970 - stamped 70 1970 350 & 455
>	7031971 - stamped 71 1966-68 all
>	7031972 - stamped 72 1968-69 400 SMT
>	7031973 - stamped 73
>	7031974 - stamped 74 1968-69 W-31
>	7031955 - stamped 75 1969-69 400 W-30/W-32
>
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:21:31 -0400
Subject: Re: rake

>I have access to a set of 15" SSII's that are in good condition.  I was
>wondering if I ran the 15" in the back with a tall (but wide) tire and
>the 14" in the front with a low profile tire, would the rake of the car
>look good on an Olds. Also, would this give me a higher or lower gear
>ratio?
>


What year?  My '81 looked great to me that way, but the GS looked kinda
funny (Until the torque pulled the front end back where it belongs...)
There are extremes in any case.  My fronts were fairly small, and my backs
were ~big~ so that had an affect.  The Rockit had the air shocks cranked up
for a while to clear the 295-50R15's with the wider axle.  It looked kinda
hideous then, especially with the 215-60R14's on front.  It levelled out
just fine on acceleration, though, and I got a ~ton~ of complements about
that!  People telling me how it looks by making waving gestures with their
hands (for lack of a better way of wording it) and usually accompanying it
with some religious defication ("Holy S**t") so I guess it made quite a
statement...  Taller tires will affectively give you a lower numerical gear
ratio.  For every revolution, the tire takes you farther due to increased
circumference, so it may increase mileage and decrease performance,
depending on application.  Your speedometer will not be accurate, though,
and therefor your odometer will be just as inaccurate, so you won't be able
to accurately measure mileage until you determine how much to compensate by.

Hope this helps...

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:22:52 -0400
Subject: Re: C.I.D. math

At 12:37 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>i have question for all the CID Math people!!
>
>what happens to the displacement of a motor if you decide
>to put dome pistons in????
>
>Does it change your cubic inches?
>
>what about dish pistons?
>
>Do you gain some cubes?
>
>Just curious
>Jeff
>

Can I use 'absolutely nothing?'  tempting isn't it.  Piston shape has
absolutely nothing to do with the cubic inch displacement.  Displacement is
the volume of the piston travel.  A 455 engines is 4.125 x 4.25 regardless
of what the pistons looks like.

What you are changing is the compression ratio.  Dome the piston, and
increase the compression ratio.  Dish the piston, and you decrease the
compression ration.

Nope no cubes gained.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:27:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Quadrqajets

On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, buehner wrote:

> Hey, Bill.  Great stuff (as always)  Anyone know about OEM/aftermarket
> availability of these items?  Ha-Ha-Holley has their trick kits and such, I
> imagine in someone came up with a set of these springs, rods, jets, etc,
> they'd be a good item for us on the list.  (I'm guessing the second half
> addresses the secondary rods?  Oh, and there is interest in the second part
> of it...  Thanks.

I'll second that, thanks again,

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobiling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
'84 Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. TH400 69k miles)



Bill,
PS.  Have you though of anything about S.Carolina

------------------------------

From: qwik@ticipa.Works.ti.com (Jack Wendel MSGID QWIK)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:30:37 -0400
Subject: What do I have?

Well, I finally got around to checking out my basketcase '69 442 convertible.
 Here are the numbers.  Can someone tell me what I have?

VIN 344679M357899

Cowl tag:

ST69   33667LAN361032 BDY
TR 930        10 B    PNT
   O4C

ENGINE:

396026 G

39M357899

I know it has C heads only because someone told me and there is  big C on
them.

I also just read the post about a tranny number (TH400).  Where would I find
this number?

Are there any other numbers I need to look for?

TIA

L8R,

Jack (Don't know a thing about Olds....yet) Wendel

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 17:05:38 -0400
Subject: Re: What do I have?

Here's what I could help you with.

On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, Jack Wendel MSGID QWIK wrote:

> VIN 344679M357899

3 = Oldsmobile Division of GM
44 = 442
67 = convertible
9 = 1969
M = Built at Lansing, Michigan
357899 = # off of the assembly line



> Cowl tag:
>
> ST69   33667LAN361032 BDY
> TR 930        10 B    PNT
>    O4C
>
> ENGINE:
>
> 396026 G
>
> 39M357899

I'l let somebody else, more experienced,  play with these :-)



>
> I know it has C heads only because someone told me and there is  big C on
> them.
>
> I also just read the post about a tranny number (TH400).  Where would I find
 > this number?

Actually, the TH400 was just Olds' heavy-duty tranny that appeared behind
her big block motors, and occasionally behind small blocks as well.  The
thing that you would be interested in to see if it is original, is on the
bottom there should be a small metal tag (silver I think, correct me if
I'm wrong) which should have a 2 letter code starting with "O".  I've got
a TH400 behind the 350 rocket in my '84 Cutlass Supreme.



> Are there any other numbers I need to look for?
>
> TIA
>
> L8R,
>
> Jack (Don't know a thing about Olds....yet) Wendel
Well we'll just have to see about fixing that won't we!


>
>
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. TH400 69k miles)

------------------------------

From: Matt Breitbach <mbreitba@iastate.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 17:26:26 -0400
Subject: any idea on this one?

well, here goes.  we have a 1969 442.  it has red inner fenders, but the
engine has been swapped.  there are no w-30 emblems.  it has the 4 speed
manual transmission.  is there any way to tell if it is a w-30?  any help
would be appreciated.  thanks in advance.


see it at http://www.442.com/breitbach.html


matt breitbach
mbreitba@iastate.edu

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 18:04:33 -0400
Subject: Re: What do I have?

At 04:30 PM 2/9/97 -0400, Jack Wendel MSGID QWIK wrote:
>Well, I finally got around to checking out my basketcase '69 442 convertible.
 >Here are the numbers.  Can someone tell me what I have?

>Jack (Don't know a thing about Olds....yet) Wendel

Hey Jack, your on the classic f-body list aren't you? I remember seeing your
posts here and there and I even think we chatted a few times. I am on the
3rd and 4th gen f-body list. Anyways when did you get your 442? What are
your plans for it?
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) f-list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28......patriot red, A4, G92, PEG2, GSC,  currently bone stock
      planned spring mods: !Cat, !TB, 160stat, SLP cat back, GM Cold Air Kit
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30...white/gold...........3rd place '97 Cleveland Auto Rama

------------------------------

From: chrisrd <chrisrd@istar.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 18:06:29 -0400
Subject: oldsmobile parts

Hello
         Need weatherstripping for 82 olds 88 . Want to buy new.
 Any leads for this would be greatly appreciated.

                                       best Chrisrd@istar.ca

------------------------------

From: GWright442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 18:18:45 -0400
Subject: 1979 Hurst Olds

I have recently purchased a 1979 Hurst Olds (white/gold with T-tops) that I
plan to restore.  I would like to know about any parts outlets for these cars
including H/O emblems, console shifter plate, W-30 decals, etc..  I would
also like to know where I can find more information about these cars such as
performance specs, # built, paint codes, etc.  Thanks

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 18:39:22 -0400
Subject: A Good Day For Olds

Saturday we had an Olds workathon... what fun! My buddy Brian's nice new
heated garage was the place for several jobs. He's detailing the engine
compartment of a '70 SX so I helped with removal of the hood (those
things are *heavy*), the hinges, all of the stuff on the front of the
engine including the water pump, and the a/c compressor and alternator
with their bracketry. That took the morning, then the owner of the SX
took us to lunch and as compensation for our efforts (we thought we were
working for free), presented each of us with an Ertl 1/18 diecast '69
Hurst/Olds! Real nice.

After lunch we started installing the 8-track in my Cutlass. That took
about 4 hours all told. Hardest part was getting the back seat cushion out
(I still don't know how we did that, I've never seen a seat that
well-secured... ugh) and once we did it revealed about 5 pounds of beach
sand under there! I was concerned about how the floorpans would have
survived that, but once we cleaned it out there was no rust... must have
been fresh-water sand. ;) The old lady I bought the car from told me that
she used to use it to take her nieces and nephews to the beach and I
remembered that when I saw the sand. Disappointed not to find a build
sheet though.

It took some time to mark the holes for the player under the dash. Thanks
to the assembly manual I discovered something I didn't know before - those
players are offset about 5 inches to the right of center, presumably to
give your right leg some room to get at the accelerator pedal. Cut the
hole in the parcel shelf for the speaker with considerable trepidation but
the speaker and factory grill fit perfectly. Ran the wires, mounted the
player, fabricated a brace for the backside.

Finally the momnet of truth. The repair shop told me it worked great after
they did the work on it but I was skeptical. But we powered it up, stuck
in a tape and... TUNES! Fantastic! The switching for the radio works
properly too - push in a tape and the radio shuts off. The best thing
about it is the way it looks under the dash. Really sets off the look of
the interior.  All I need is the brushed-aluminum faceplate instead of the
'69 woodgrain job I have right now. But I love it! Nice sound too, the
reconed speaker works real good.  Nothing like today's megawatt stereos of
course but a nice mellow sound appropriate to the era.

A full Olds day that reminded me of why I enjoy this so much.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: qwik@ticipa.Works.ti.com (Jack Wendel MSGID QWIK)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 18:51:02 -0400
Subject: Too many is what I have!!!

Jason Labay posted:

>Hey Jack, your on the classic f-body list aren't you? I remember seeing your
>posts here and there and I even think we chatted a few times. I am on the
>3rd and 4th gen f-body list.

One and the same!!!  Amazing how I run into other f-body owners on these
lists!!  I have three BB '69 Camaros.  I ran into Wynand on the 'vette
list (I have a '68 BB roadster).

>Anyways when did you get your 442?

I've had it for years.  Bought it with a basketcase '66 Chevelle convertible
in a package deal.  The previous owner showed me pictures of the car before
he tore it down.  It looked BEAUTIFUL in the pictures.  It's a real shame
he tore it apart.  At least he left the engine and tranny intact!!!

>What are your plans for it?

I'm not sure at this point.  I have so many project cars I can't even see
straight and the 442 convertible is by far the largest of them all.  Ever
seen a convertible COMPLETELY disassembled?  It's a scary sight, even for
someone who has built as many cars as I have!!!

My blue '69 Camaro is the only one finished.  You can see it at:

(http://www.access.digex.net/~clint/car/jack/jack.html)

I had plans to fix 'em all up, but my body guy hasn't been coming through
for me like I had hoped he would.  He's painting my white '69 427 Camaro
at the moment and I was going to base sending the 442 to him on how pleased
I was with the Camaro.  He CLAIMED he'd have the car done in 4 weeks, but
it's been three so far and he hasn't even touched it!!!  AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!

My dad just called me last week with an offer to 'go together' on fixing
up the 442.  He REALLY wants that car and I have too many as it is.  BUT,
he failed to offer me a PLACE to work on it.  My garage is full at the
moment!!  I'll know more when the Camaro is finished.

L8R,

Jack (Know any GOOD bodymen?!?) Wendel

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 13:23:57 -0400
Subject: Quadrajet II

Everyone,

I have that little girl in good shape.  This is the remainder of the
article.

First, the fuel inlet seat ("A" on the top view of the carb) should be
replaced with GM part 7035140, which should be used with all
stock/modified cars using GM mechanical fuel pumps.  With any fuel
delivery system with over 5 psi, use GM assembly 7035130.  Stay away
from the seat supplied wiht most rebuilding kits unless rebuilding a
totally stock carb as they are of questionable quality and do not
deliver sufficient fuel.

Set our float to 9/32" and ensure that the fuel level does not climb too
high and slosh into the power valve hole and overly enrich your mixture.

       [Graphic of front upper view of carb w/air horn removed]

FLOAT BOWL PIVOT PIN - Held in place by the air horn.  Spread it
slightly so that the floar/needle can't climb out under high fuel
pressure situations.

Adjust the float, set it and the needle in place, then insert the
primary needles/power piston in place.  BE CAREFUL TO INSERT THE NEEDLES
IN THE JETS AS YOU INSERT THE PISTON OR YOU WILL BEND THEM!  Drop in the
float chamber baffle as it keeps the fuel in the float well and has no
affect on the amount of fuel in the chamber!

Assemble the air horn and the fuel float bowl using the proper gasket.
There are quite a few different ones so make sure the one you use  has
the same holes and the same configuration as your carburetor.  This
operation is usually a pain as the accelerator pump lever arm link
requires the arm to be inserted into it as you are trying to tilt the
air horn onto the float bowl in 1968 and later carbs.  The '67 and '66
units use a link wich is inserted afterwards and has a pin to hold it in
place.  Scrounge the junk yards for this piece and use it.  CAUTION;
some links are of different length, be sure to use the one with the same
length.

For proper accelerator pump discharge (Olds engines) always use the
inner lever arm position.  screw down the carb air horn with the two
center screws.  STOP HERE and turn the carb over.  Check the gasket used
between the float bowl and the base as you did for the air horn/float
bowl unit.  Place it on the base and mate the base to the float bowl.
You will use either two screws or three, depending on the year and type
of carb you have.  I suggest you utilize small lock washers on these
screws.  Use ones which will fit in the screw well.  This is a better
method than Loc-Tite.  These screws have a nasty habit of loosening up
and causing vacuum leaks.

Now turn the carb over, install the rest of the screws and turn them in
according to the sequence in the Chassis Service Manual.

[Graphic of 7 secondary metering rods ranging from thick(lean) to thin
(rich)]

Now it's time for the secondary metering rods.  We are able to control
fuel metering by both the rod size and the hanger.  Let's discuss rod
size first:
	7033830 - stamped AY (leanest) '73 and later 350
	7033658 - stamped AT '70 442 SMT & 350
	7033655 - stamped AU '66-69 big block, W-30 & W-31
	7046004 - stamped DA
	7033549 - stamped AX '71 Toro
	17056618 - stamped DS (richest) Buick V6 Turbo

Most carbs can be enriched one rod with no problem.  All W-Machines
should go right to the "AX" rod.  The "DS" rod should only be used for
racing.

More adjustment of the secondary circuit can be made with the rod
hanger.  These hangers are coded A, B, C, etc., in 0.005" changes in
height, with "A" being the highest and "Z" being the lowest.  Therefore,
an "A" hanger will pull the rods out sooner and higher than a "Z".
These are no longer available except for the "V" hanger, so off you go
to the junk yard.

OK, now that you've acquired all these pieces, rebuilt the carb,
installed bseline rods, jets, and the like, you are ready for final
testing.  Adjust all the fast idle, dash pot, vacuum break, etc. as
specified in the chassis service manual [or the detailed kit
instructions].  Now you can bolt the carb to the manifold.  I suggest
that a relatively SOFT gasket be used.  Fel-Pro and Mr. Gasket offer a
thicker unit with a composition which seems to hold up well.  If this
gasket gets too hard from heat (a common problem with aluminum
manifolds), it will leak and ruin your idle/tuning.  Remember, a Q-Jet
is vacuum controlled, so......

I suggest that you run an in-line fuel filter of very high fuel flow
capacity.  A Fram GF-15 is what I use.  If you are a stickler for stock
fuel line appearance, put it in-line where the line comes out of the
front of the K-Frame and attaches to the fuel pump.  The reason for the
in-line filter is that we want to remove the filter in the nose of the
carb.  This allows us to almost double the fuel available to the carb
during wide-open throttle situations.

Our two final adjustments are critical.  The first is the secondary air
valve spring "wrap".  This little guy determines when the secondaries
open.  While I will give you the base-line, you'll have to find the
optimum by testing (PEDAL TO THE METAL!).

          [Graphic of secondary air valve spring & lock]

The allen head set screw (A) must be loosened first.  When there is no
tension on the air valve butterflies, the spring tension is set with the
screw (B).

Loosen the allen head screw until you see the tension go completely out
of the butterfly.  Then insert a small screw driver into the screw (B).
Slowly turn the screw clock-wise, while tapping on the carb lightly
until the butterfly rotates up and contacts the air horn.  Turn the
screw another 1/4 turn.  Hold the screw in this position while
tightening the allen head screw.  (Wouldn't it be nice to have a third
hand now?)

This is your base-line setting.  Less tension will opent he valve
sooner; more will open it later.  The test should go like this:

	1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the choke diaphram and plug the hose
ONLY.
	2. Go out and try a Wide Open Throttle acceleration.  (The fun part!)
Decrease the wrap (loosen) until a loss of performance is noted by bog.
	3. Connect the diaphram and see if the bog goes away.  If not, tighten
in 1/8 turns until it does.
	4. Once that is as good as possible, go one step richer with yor
secondary rods and see what happens.  If you run betteer, go a step
richer - if not, check the wrap again.  If there is no improvement, go
back to the old rods.
	5. When you have the old rods back in, go two steps towards "A" (i.e.
from a J to H) with the rod hanger.  Repeat the procedure.
	6. After you get the best results, check your plugs to see if you are
too lean.  If so, go up two numbers in your primary jets and one step in
your primary rods.
	7. If you are still too lean, consult below.

The following racing mods should only be done for a car which exhibits
overly lean conditions @ WOT or is highly modified and is a RACE ONLY
CAR.

Mike Jones Carburetion, 7602 Talbert, Hunnington Beache, CA 92647 sells
accelerator pump pistons with differing length shafts.  These allow more
or less of a shot of gas.  He also offers a ligher return spring and a
stiffer shaft spring.  Mixing/matching can allow more precise metering.
The shaft length also allows a different point at which fuel delivery
starts.

The air valve dashpot can be modified by drilling out the orfice from
0.025" to 0.035".  The rear fuel bowl vent can be plugged to prevent
fuel sloshing.  '75 and later Q-Jets ought to be enlarged to 0.010".

The passage between the main fuel well and the two secondary wells can
be enlarged to 0.050", which will allow them to fill quicker.

Here are some DON'TS!

Don't remove the baffles from the secondary bores.  They ensure proper
fuel mixture/atomization.

Don't remove the plastic float chamber baffle as it helps to direct the
fuel into the chamber as it sits above the fuel level.

Don't try to set the idle without holding the hot idle compensator tang
back on the back of the carb.	

Follow these tips and your Quadra-Jet will perform with the best of
them.  Because it is mostly vacuum controlled, it does require a bit
more setting up than a Holley, but when properly dialed-in, it can
deliver btter around town driveability and real Go Power when the hammer
is dropped.


Try these tuning/adjustment tips.  They have worked very well for me.  I
only have stock cars and so haven't tried the highly modified stuff.

I get as many old Quadra-Jets as I can from the junque yarde at $3-$5
each.  This is a source of parts.  Most all of the carbs are
interchangeable as well as their 3 main parts.  I believe base plates
can be salvaged if necessary by twisting them in your hands until they
pass the straightness test.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 13:27:18 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile parts

chrisrd wrote:
>
> Hello
>          Need weatherstripping for 82 olds 88 . Want to buy new.
>  Any leads for this would be greatly appreciated.
>
>                                        best Chrisrd@istar.ca

This is new enough that you might check the dealer.  More parts are
still available than you'd guess.  The prices can be much better than
the specialty market too.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 19:40:02 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: A Good Day For Olds]

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- --------------70C872AC719F
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Greg, I've been collecting whatever info I can on 69 442 8 track
installations. Found your note interesting.  Any chance you can fax me
detailed dash location data from the assembly manual I don't have one.
Sounds like there is a rear bracket as well. Can you describe it?  My
fax number is 905-734-6151. Since my 442 is in storage for the winter, I
can't get at it for a while.  I think I may have directed you to John
Green (Olds parts dealer) previously.  I was at his place a few weeks
ago.  I'm sure he has the faceplate you need.  His number is
416-724-4405.  If you are not aware of John, he has a considerable
inventory of 68-72 Olds parts.  He is not on the net.  Thanks for your
help.  Wayne Schwartz

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Date:	Sun, 9 Feb 1997 18:39:22 -0400
From:	Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To:	Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: A Good Day For Olds
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Saturday we had an Olds workathon... what fun! My buddy Brian's nice new
heated garage was the place for several jobs. He's detailing the engine
compartment of a '70 SX so I helped with removal of the hood (those
things are *heavy*), the hinges, all of the stuff on the front of the
engine including the water pump, and the a/c compressor and alternator
with their bracketry. That took the morning, then the owner of the SX
took us to lunch and as compensation for our efforts (we thought we were
working for free), presented each of us with an Ertl 1/18 diecast '69
Hurst/Olds! Real nice.

After lunch we started installing the 8-track in my Cutlass. That took
about 4 hours all told. Hardest part was getting the back seat cushion out
(I still don't know how we did that, I've never seen a seat that
well-secured... ugh) and once we did it revealed about 5 pounds of beach
sand under there! I was concerned about how the floorpans would have
survived that, but once we cleaned it out there was no rust... must have
been fresh-water sand. ;) The old lady I bought the car from told me that
she used to use it to take her nieces and nephews to the beach and I
remembered that when I saw the sand. Disappointed not to find a build
sheet though.

It took some time to mark the holes for the player under the dash. Thanks
to the assembly manual I discovered something I didn't know before - those
players are offset about 5 inches to the right of center, presumably to
give your right leg some room to get at the accelerator pedal. Cut the
hole in the parcel shelf for the speaker with considerable trepidation but
the speaker and factory grill fit perfectly. Ran the wires, mounted the
player, fabricated a brace for the backside.

Finally the momnet of truth. The repair shop told me it worked great after
they did the work on it but I was skeptical. But we powered it up, stuck
in a tape and... TUNES! Fantastic! The switching for the radio works
properly too - push in a tape and the radio shuts off. The best thing
about it is the way it looks under the dash. Really sets off the look of
the interior.  All I need is the brushed-aluminum faceplate instead of the
'69 woodgrain job I have right now. But I love it! Nice sound too, the
reconed speaker works real good.  Nothing like today's megawatt stereos of
course but a nice mellow sound appropriate to the era.

A full Olds day that reminded me of why I enjoy this so much.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada





- --------------70C872AC719F--

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 19:57:13 -0400
Subject: Looking for early style SSI

I'm looking for one early style SSI (14" with no trim ring).  Anybody
have one for sale?

TIA

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 21:02:55 -0400
Subject: Re: C.I.D. math

At 11:31 PM 2/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
>How many Cubic Inches are there in a Litre?

Every litre is about 61 ci. At work, the men's room urinals have a note that
they are 1-gallon/per flush units; of course, they have the metric
equivalent of 3.8liters.

So, all you V-6 Cutlass guys can put "One-gallon" stickers from milk
containers... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 21:48:46 -0400
Subject: Re: What do I have?

In a message dated 97-02-09 15:58:22 EST, you write:

> VIN 344679M357899

Someone already skillfully attended to this matter, so I'll let it alone.
 But he left the following to those with more experience, so here we go...
>
>  Cowl tag:
>
>  ST69

It's a '69

>   33667

3 is for Oldsmobile, 3667 is a Cutlass S V-8 convertible.  Now, we went
through this a little while back about how the '68s didn't match as far as
the VIN tag and Cowl tag.  Didn't think the '69s were like that though.
 Someone else will have to clear this up for you.

>  LAN361032 BDY

It was built in Lansing.  361032 is the body sequence number.

>  TR 930

Interior trim code.  The nine and the the are the kind of upholstery and type
of seats.  0 in the color code, which is black.

>     10 B    PNT

Paint and convertible top code.  10 is most likely Cameo White, which my
sales book shows as code C, but the '70 sales book shows code 10 as Porcelain
White.  B is probably a black top, my sales books shows as code 2, but again
the '70 book shows it as BB.

>     O4C

Build date.  Third week (C) of April (04)

And I, too, concede the following to someone who knows better about these
things than I do.

Paul

>  ENGINE:
>
>  396026 G
>
>  39M357899
>

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 21:49:03 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fwd: A Good Day For Olds]

In a message dated 97-02-09 18:40:58 EST, you write:

> Greg, I've been collecting whatever info I can on 69 442 8 track
>  installations. Found your note interesting.  Any chance you can fax me
>  detailed dash location data from the assembly manual I don't have one.

Sounds like you guys have to go to alot of trouble to mount your 8-tracks in
those earlier cars.  I was lucky, the '72 was already pre-drilled.  My
biggest problem was trying to install it myself without breaking the case.
 While you're hold the case this becomes a pretty much one-handed job.

>  Sounds like there is a rear bracket as well. Can you describe it?

I'm understanding there were two different brackets, one with A/C and one
without.  Don't know what I did anymore, as the unit came out of an A/C car
and the '72 is non-A/C.  I think I used the A/C bracket and "adjusted" it.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:06:04 -0400
Subject: Re: What do I have?

In a message dated 97-02-09 20:53:50 EST, you write:

>And I, too, concede the following to someone who knows better about these
>things than I do.
>
>Paul
>
>>  ENGINE:
>>
>>  396026 G
>>
>>  39M357899
>>

OK, guys, I will finish this one off.  CONGRATULATIONS! You have a numbers
matching engine. The casting code dictates a '68-'69 400, The stamping #
means; 3= Olds, 9=1969,  M= Lansing, The last 6 digits match your VIN's last
6 digits. You are very lucky to have ended up like you did.  Ed
 Escape442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:19:31 -0400
Subject: Re: A Good Day For Olds

On Sun, 9 Feb 1997 PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 97-02-09 18:40:58 EST, you write:
> > Greg, I've been collecting whatever info I can on 69 442 8 track
> >  installations. Found your note interesting.  Any chance you can fax me
> >  detailed dash location data from the assembly manual I don't have one.

I don't have the manual, we borrowed it. But it's easy. Find the center
of the dash, then measure about 4 3/4 inches to the left and 9 3/4 inches
to the right from the center. Before you drill, line up the studs on the
case with your marks. The right edge of the case will line up with the
left edge of the glovebox door.

> Sounds like you guys have to go to alot of trouble to mount your 8-tracks in
> those earlier cars.  I was lucky, the '72 was already pre-drilled.  My
> biggest problem was trying to install it myself without breaking the case.
>  While you're hold the case this becomes a pretty much one-handed job.

You're right, the '70 SX had the holes already there too. Fortunately there
were 2 of us working on it! We were wondering what the '68 flat rate
manual said this job was worth. It was a chore. The player itself can be
dismounted from the case to test-fit your installation, which makes
handling it a little easier.

> >  Sounds like there is a rear bracket as well. Can you describe it?
> I'm understanding there were two different brackets, one with A/C and one
> without.  Don't know what I did anymore, as the unit came out of an A/C car
> and the '72 is non-A/C.  I think I used the A/C bracket and "adjusted" it.

We didn't have a bracket so we had to make one up. Ended up using what I
think the hardware store called a masonry strap; it was a metal strip
about 5/8 inches wide and about 10 inches long. It had notches on it
every couple of inches to let you bend it, and holes every few inches. It
took a bit of fiddling, bending and refitting. It attaches to the right
side mounting screw on the bottom of the player and you mount it to a
hole that's already in the heater case. Paul's right that the a/c one is
different - it has both a bend and a twist in it. Mine was a little more
straightforward. We eventually ended up with a slightly angled bend at
the case where the strap has to make a 90 degree turn and it lined right
up. I don't know how much strength the bracket adds. It may be more
important for grounding than anything.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:17:54 -0400
Subject: Re: rake

At 08:47 PM 2/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I have access to a set of 15" SSII's that are in good condition.  I was
>wondering if I ran the 15" in the back with a tall (but wide) tire and
>the 14" in the front with a low profile tire, would the rake of the car
>look good on an Olds. Also, would this give me a higher or lower gear
>ratio?

Well, the only thing you have to worry about is the tire getting lost in the
front wheel-well. For that reason, if you are going to mix and match 14" and
15" rims, you want the _sidewall_ height of the tires to be approximately
the same, and get the rake from the difference in diameter. Thus, if you
have a 275/60-15 tire in back, you might want to go with a 225/70-14 tire in
front (or whatever size is close to the sidewall-height of the rear tire).

I remember the trick setup back about a dozen years ago was to run L60's on
the back and F78's on the front (when's the last time you bought tires
listed with those sizes? Starting to feel older...). The above sizes are
approximately the metric equivalents of the old bias-ply tires (well, I
guess the F78 would be a 205/75... so shoot me!).

FWIW, I've scrounged a pair of 14x7 and a pair of 15x7 SSIII's for my SX,
and I've got a couple 215/60-14's to go on the front, while the rear will
use some leftover 235/75-15's I've got lying around, until I can afford some
real tires. So you are not alone.

BTW, none of these setups is optimum for cornering performance, obviously. I
didn't know anybody whose L60's didn't have little white circles cut into
the sidewall from rubbing on the fender lip...

(I, on the other hand, went with G60's all around, and could corner at
double the speeds they could).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:24:22 -0400
Subject: Re: What do I have?

At 09:48 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-02-09 15:58:22 EST, you write:
>
>> VIN 344679M357899
>
>Someone already skillfully attended to this matter, so I'll let it alone.
> But he left the following to those with more experience, so here we go...
>>
>>  Cowl tag:
>>
>>  ST69
>
>It's a '69
>
>>   33667
>
>3 is for Oldsmobile, 3667 is a Cutlass S V-8 convertible.  Now, we went
>through this a little while back about how the '68s didn't match as far as
>the VIN tag and Cowl tag.  Didn't think the '69s were like that though.
> Someone else will have to clear this up for you.
>
>>  LAN361032 BDY
>
>It was built in Lansing.  361032 is the body sequence number.
>
>>  TR 930
>
>Interior trim code.  The nine and the the are the kind of upholstery and type
>of seats.  0 in the color code, which is black.
>
>>     10 B    PNT
>
>Paint and convertible top code.  10 is most likely Cameo White, which my
>sales book shows as code C, but the '70 sales book shows code 10 as Porcelain
>White.  B is probably a black top, my sales books shows as code 2, but again
>the '70 book shows it as BB.
>
>>     O4C
>
>Build date.  Third week (C) of April (04)
>
>And I, too, concede the following to someone who knows better about these
>things than I do.
>
>Paul
>
>>  ENGINE:
>>
>>  396026 G
>>
>>  39M357899
>>
>
>It's Jim. I'll give this one a try.

3=Oldsmobile
9=1969
M=Lansing
Sequential # = 357899( meaning that this is the numbers matching engine
installed by Oldsmobile.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:29:17 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile parts

At 06:06 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello
>         Need weatherstripping for 82 olds 88 . Want to buy new.
> Any leads for this would be greatly appreciated.
>
>                                       best Chrisrd@istar.ca

Check out a local dealer on this one. It very well could still be available.
Nobody is reproducing for that year and model, not even Metro Molded.

Jim Chermack>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 16:23:48 -0400
Subject: Re: C.I.D. math

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> At 11:31 PM 2/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >How many Cubic Inches are there in a Litre?
>
> Every litre is about 61 ci. At work, the men's room urinals have a note that
> they are 1-gallon/per flush units; of course, they have the metric
> equivalent of 3.8liters.
>
> So, all you V-6 Cutlass guys can put "One-gallon" stickers from milk
> containers... :)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry

One gallon cars, eh?  I knew that those were large capacity cars, but I
never thought of them in that light.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:43:42 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile parts

On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
> At 06:06 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >         Need weatherstripping for 82 olds 88 . Want to buy new.
> > Any leads for this would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Check out a local dealer on this one. It very well could still be available.
> Nobody is reproducing for that year and model, not even Metro Molded.

I knew I had seen this stuff somewhere and found it in my JC Whitney
catalog! They say it's a SoffSeal product. They carry door weatherstrips
for 77-85 GM full sizers in 2 and 4-door versions (74.95 and 79.95 per
pair) and for '78-up A-body 4-doors (74.95). !-800-553-1872 (don't know if
that's a Canadian-only phone though).

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:45:42 -0400
Subject: Re: any idea on this one?

At 05:26 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
well, here goes.  we have a 1969 442.  it has red inner fenders, but the
engine has been swapped.  there are no w-30 emblems.  it has the 4 speed
manual transmission.  is there any way to tell if it is a w-30?  any help
would be appreciated.  thanks in advance.


Matt

        Here we go. These are a few things to look for to tell if it was an
original W-30.

1. Must be a Lansing built car. "M" in the VIN tag
2. Should have one of the following rear end codes with the VIN on the rear.
        a. TM = 3.42:1
        b. TO = 3.91:1
        c. TY = 4.33:1
3. Should have the close ratio 4 spd. code XF with VIN on the transmission
4. Red fenderwells with holes for Ram Air tubes.
5. Cylinder Heads should be "D" code
6. Manual Disc Brakes ONLY! (ALL 4 spd.'s have the 328 degree cam)
7. Distributor # 1111933 (if original)
8. Carb # 7049254 (if original)

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:51:39 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile parts

At 10:43 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>On Sun, 9 Feb 1997, James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>> At 06:06 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> >         Need weatherstripping for 82 olds 88 . Want to buy new.
>> > Any leads for this would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Check out a local dealer on this one. It very well could still be
available. >> Nobody is reproducing for that year and model, not even Metro
Molded. > >I knew I had seen this stuff somewhere and found it in my JC
Whitney >catalog! They say it's a SoffSeal product. They carry door
weatherstrips >for 77-85 GM full sizers in 2 and 4-door versions (74.95 and
79.95 per >pair) and for '78-up A-body 4-doors (74.95). !-800-553-1872 (don't
know if >that's a Canadian-only phone though). > >Greg Beaulieu
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada > > >Greg
                Thanks for the info. NOne of the books I have list those
part. Keep me out of hot water buddy.

Jim

------------------------------

From: Matt Breitbach <mbreitba@iastate.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 23:45:33 -0400
Subject: Re: any idea on this one?

>6. Manual Disc Brakes ONLY! (ALL 4 spd.'s have the 328 degree cam)


everything else checks out pretty good(except for the fact that the engine
isn't original, therefore, the heads, etc. aren't either).  which brakes are
disk, front, back, all?  i am two and a half hours away from the car, so i
can't just go out and look, and i am not real certain if it does or not.

thanks in advance,

matt breitbach

in kahoots with an uncle and a '69 442, see it at
http://www.442.com/breitbach.html

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 17:59:06 -0400
Subject: Re: any idea on this one?

Matt Breitbach wrote:
>
> >6. Manual Disc Brakes ONLY! (ALL 4 spd.'s have the 328 degree cam)
>
> everything else checks out pretty good(except for the fact that the engine
> isn't original, therefore, the heads, etc. aren't either).  which brakes are
> disk, front, back, all?  i am two and a half hours away from the car, so i
> can't just go out and look, and i am not real certain if it does or not.
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> matt breitbach
>
Matt,

The brakes (original type) are 4-piston caliper front discs or drums all
around.  Rear discs are a feature from the more modern era.

My convertible has drums & seems good.  I will probably change to
4-piston discs that I have picked up.  I have yet to get the proper
wheels for them though.  I now have SSI chrome wheels.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 00:06:13 -0400
Subject: Re: any idea on this one?

At 11:45 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>6. Manual Disc Brakes ONLY! (ALL 4 spd.'s have the 328 degree cam)
>
>
>everything else checks out pretty good(except for the fact that the engine
>isn't original, therefore, the heads, etc. aren't either).  which brakes are
>disk, front, back, all?  i am two and a half hours away from the car, so i
>can't just go out and look, and i am not real certain if it does or not.
>
>thanks in advance,
>
>matt breitbach
>
>in kahoots with an uncle and a '69 442, see it at
>http://www.442.com/breitbach.html
>
>Matt
        Only the front brakes will be discs. No such option as 4 wheel discs
on these cars back then. The master cylinder should be the ONLY brake bart
bolted to the firewall. NO large vacuum booster.

Jim

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 00:26:41 -0400
Subject: Re: any idea on this one?

At 05:59 PM 2/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Matt Breitbach wrote:
>>
>> >6. Manual Disc Brakes ONLY! (ALL 4 spd.'s have the 328 degree cam)
>>
>> everything else checks out pretty good(except for the fact that the engine
>> isn't original, therefore, the heads, etc. aren't either).  which brakes
are >> disk, front, back, all?  i am two and a half hours away from the car,
so i >> can't just go out and look, and i am not real certain if it does or
not. >> >> thanks in advance, >> >> matt breitbach >> >Matt, > >The brakes
(original type) are 4-piston caliper front discs or drums all >around.  Rear
discs are a feature from the more modern era. > >My convertible has drums &
seems good.  I will probably change to >4-piston discs that I have picked up.
I have yet to get the proper >wheels for them though.  I now have SSI chrome
wheels. > >Bill Culp >Decatur, Alabama


Bill
        4 piston calipers were offered only on the 67-68 A-body. In 69 GM
changed to a more reliable single piston design still with us today. Even
the Corvettes fro awhile used the single piston style. 4 Piston calipers a a
pain in the butt unless you spend the money to have them sleeved with
stainless.

Jim Chermack >

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 17:05:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Ouch goes the Rockit  :(

     Sorry to hear it happen you you, Charlie.  I'm sure the rockit will be
     back to life soon though, with your skills.  I know how you feel,
     since the same thing just happened to me.  Perhaps not as bad, but the
     few parts I need might be a bit harder to find.

     Wed. morning going to work in the '84 H/O (It's my only driver, aside
     from the SO's truck) the guy in the left lane decided that he wanted
     to occupy the same space as me.  My options at that point were to get
     hit (he would have clipped about the front 2 feet of my car) or to
     brake hard and swerve.  I chose the latter and avoided the car, but of
     course there happened to be black ice right there which combined with
     the violent manoever pictched the car slightly sideways.  Went
     gracefully over the curb into the retaining wall headfirst at about
     5mph.  Had I hit it myself (I mean me, not the car) Id'a just shrugged
     it off, but no. . .  The front of the car is mostly plastic.  So now,
     I'm looking for a new airdam, one grill, one headlight bezel, and both
     turn signals (it was a very irregular, pointy, rough volcanic rock
     wall).  I think I have a lead on most parts except for the grill (that
     airdam is gonna be expensive, good thing I got the uninsured motorist
     to cover it.  They're considering this a hit-and-run since I had two
     witness', but nobody got a plate #).

     Does anybody know if the grille and turn signals are different on the
     H/O than a normal Cutlass?  Are they the same as the '84 Cutlass
     Calais?  I've found two NOS headlight bezels, for a good price, and I
     think I can get a used airdam, so all that leaves is the turn signals
     and the grille.  The signals are amber and I think the plain Cutlass's
     signals are clear with amber bulbs.  The grille is mostly black where
     I think the normal grille is silver.  Anyone know for sure?  Anyone
     out there with an '84 Calais?

     Charlie, if there's any parts I can get you here in Spokane, let me
     know.  There's a few junkyards with good 80's Cutlass's in them, one
     in particular I'm sure has what you need.  I can ship small parts, and
     I get over to Missoula a few times a year if you want to come down and
     meet me for any larger parts.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Ouch goes the Rockit  :( Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/8/97 2:49 AM


     Well, it was bound to happen, and tonight it finally did.  While
     cruising

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 00:29:05 -0400
Subject: Re: yet another muff question

> i want to put a high flow muff on my 85 delta 88 v6 231 3.8L but i have not
> got an good enough answer...some say to go with the cherrybomb glasspacks,
> some say go with a walker...i am looking for low cost with decent flow and
> nice sound...i want to set it up something like this...



                  small or big block olds V-8
                   307, 350, 400, 425, 455


>                         || ||    split pipes
>                        //  \\    right off engine
>                       //    \\   headers or manifolds
>                      //      \\
>                      ||       ||
>                      ||       ||  real dual exhaust
>                    ------   -------
                     -    -   -     -
                     -    -   -     -
                     -    -   -     -
                     ------   -------
                      ||         ||
>
This should give you a great improvement in 1/4 mile e.t.s.  It will
at least move you under the 18-second range.  I have found the 3.8 v-
6 better use in the marine division...specifically anchoring!

As far as smog goes....no one I know really gives two shits about it,
as long as you don't have state checkout mandations or your exhaust
doesn't rip anyone's ears off.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #509
********************************
