To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #554


oldsmobile-digest           Sunday, 9 March 1997        Volume 01 : Number 554

Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions
Re: shift indicator plate
[none]
Re: Floor pan installer
Rally Guages Wanted..
Shift Plate Indicator
The virus outbreak in MI
Re: seat cover mfrers?
olds historical center
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
CERAMIC COATED RUST
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Re: The virus outbreak in MI
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Re: Driveshaft vibrations
Re: The virus outbreak in MI
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
RE: Parts for sale
Lansing Dates/Info?
Re: Fuel Pump
Re: Lansing Dates/Info?
Restoring cutlass 442
Shocks for a '72 Cutlass
Re: CERAMIC COATED RUST
Re: Shocks for a '72 Cutlass
Parts Request - '68 & '70 Cutlasses
Re: The virus outbreak in MI
Re: Restoring cutlass 442
Re: The virus outbreak in MI
Re: The Toro virus outbreak in MI
Re: The Toro virus outbreak in MI
Re:Axle shaft and oil seal
W31 455 motor for sale
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Re: W31 455 motor for sale
Misaligned center console
67 Olds Parking lights
Re: 67 Olds Parking lights
Re: 67 Olds Parking lights
Re: W31 455 motor for sale
Re: 67 Olds Parking lights
Re: Restoring cutlass 442
RE: Floor pan installer
'92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 17:34:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions

> Brad Nicholson (BRAD.NICHOLSON@ssa.gov) wrote:

 . . .They have a web page @ www.racingchampions.com

> To which Kurt Heinrich (old442@erols.com) replied:

 I tried this URL and it didn't work....

> Then Tom Stoner (tgstoner@umich.edu) offered:

 Kurt and Brad,
 I had problems finding Racing Champions' WEB page too.  I did find
 however that http://www.racingchamps.com worked.  Despite that, I
 didn't find any information about a 1969 442 model about to be
 introduced there however.  I hope that this helps.

*********************************************************
Tom,
I'd searched since then and found the correct URL.  If you check out the
following you will see mention of the 442.
http://www.racingchamps.com/hotnews.html
BTW, why do all the model companies make only the '69 442?  Personally
I'd like to see a '71 (although I know seeing a '70 is more likely) and
a '66 or '67.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 10:40:16 -0400
Subject: Re: shift indicator plate

please run query again about shift plate

------------------------------

From: craig@dancris.com (Craig Wursten)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 18:17:01 -0400
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 18:32:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Floor pan installer

At 01:29 PM 3/8/97 -0400, Aaron D Eoff wrote:
>Need any inforamtion from olds owners who can recommend someone to install a
>floor pan on a 1977 Olds cutlass. I Have had the pan for 2 mos. and every
>place i have been to wants to do cut it up or use something else
>altogtether. I live in northern NJ and  I am willing to travel if necessary.
>The floor pan is actually for an El Camino or Chevelle 73-77. I Bought it
>based on reccomendations from this list which proved to be very helpful.
>Thanks in advance to all the responders.

Aaron, I called around and found a place that will do it for me fairly
cheap.  Look for a good bodyshop that does alot of work on older vehicles.
Might have to make alot of calls but you will eventually find one.  I got my
pans for a 73-77 El Camino to put into my 75 Hurst/Olds.  Good Luck and hope
it works out.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..currently in pieces.....

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 19:17:04 -0400
Subject: Rally Guages Wanted..

Please send me information if you have a set of 70-72 Cutlass Rally Guages.
 Condition and location as well as price is appreciated at time of message.
 Thanks!!

Mark Heiser

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 20:13:01 -0400
Subject: Shift Plate Indicator

Hey Folks,

I was asked by a coule of people to send this info out again, so here it goes.

We are looking at reproducing the difficult to locate 70-72 Auto Trans
Console Indicator.
This is the one that has P R N D S L on it. I have about 30 orders already.
I'm looking to get 50 before I repop them. $24.00 ea new. Let us know if
your interested.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 20:40:08 -0400
Subject: The virus outbreak in MI

Hey, folks, just stopped by to say howdy.
Will try to keep this concise so as not to perturb those folks who so despise
"long winded" messages :-)

The Toro virus has struck here in MI... went an made the down payment on a '68
Toro Friday. Was advertised in the paper as "two Olds engines, and a 68 Toro
goes with." Generally, if the body is not described as pretty, one can assume
that it's very rusty. So, naturally, I was thinking "parts." Big-valve C's,
maybe a forged crank. Had to investigate, of course.

On the contrary, this one is a SW US car- TX or NM or maybe Mexico, not sure
yet. VERY rustless, nice chrome. Original 455 had been extracted due to "lower
end knock under hard acceleration" which sounds just like spark knock to me.
Anyhow, spare motor is a '78 Toro 403 and drivetrain to boot. Vinyl top needs
redone, has cruise, hole where radio was, 8-track. Green exterior, greenish
interior in really nice shape. Oh, and chrome wheels that would fit disk
brakes if this car had them, which it does not. Yay! Carb ª7043240 from a '73
Buick :-(
 which I can change.

So, now I'm thinking Personal Driver status... I even have a "Toro" engine in
the garage ready to go while the original motor gets gone thru: a 67 425 block
with '72 Toro intake & heads.

Oh, yeah, going to Phoenix, AZ for Easter- family visit, and parts hunting.
Any contacts out there? Toro seller was kind enough to delay full payment
until after the AZ run... so I still have some cash. He also says that the
family has stached away 2-3 early Toros including an untitled factory
experimental unit- parts condition, might be ready to clean 'em out this
year... and another family garage stash which might include engines and a
tri-carb setup- the folks used to hang out with Bill Porterfield & Olds
Experimental engineers... no telling WHAT they have there.

I've wanted a driver Toro for a long time now, this one was a deal too good to
pass up. Virus? what Virus? I feel fine! Really...!

- --
Chris  B. Witt
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 20:58:24 -0400
Subject: Re: seat cover mfrers?

I bought a set of pearl white from Fusick about 3 years don't know what brand
they where but they were as close to pearl white that I've seen, The shop
that put them on said they were well made and and the best he has ever
installed. There were for a 71 Supreme Conv bench seat.

Everett  OCA  ª1961

------------------------------

From: MIXO@gnn.com (ANNA HEBROWSKA)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 15:56:50 -0400
Subject: olds historical center

does anyone have their mailing address?

thanks,
MIXO@gnn.com

1976 delta 88 royale

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 21:04:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

Hi Jim,

At 03:49 AM 3/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The following is a list of Olds parts for sale.

< BIG snip>

>68 Cutlass/442
>RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00ea
>Headlight Doors    $5.00ea
>Trunk Chrome Molding   $50.00set
>Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
>Rear Window Moldings   $40.00set
>(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

Does the Trunk Chrome Molding include the little pieces on either side of
the trunk?  What condition are the moldings in?


>68 442 Hood Louver Set $50.00 set (3)

If these are not pitted and still chrome, I'll take them.  Otherwise, send
me a description.


>68 Front Hood Molding (small scratch, no pitts)  $15.00

If this is the chrome molding that goes at the VERY front center of the hood
(above the center section of the grill), I'll take it.


How about an ignition switch escutcheon (sp?) (the plastice piece that
screws into the ignition switch housing and holds the switch into the dash)?
Have you got one?  Have you seen one?  I'd buy two (at least: I have a '68
hardtop with a yucky one and a '68 convertible WITHOUT one).


Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: CHRIS MATTHES <CDOGG73@ELKNET.NET>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 22:26:06 -0400
Subject: CERAMIC COATED RUST

does anyone know why my new, never driven, only bolted on to the car, and
then sat all winter, $300 ceramic coated hedders are rusting???

i'd like to know.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 21:14:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

Yikes!

At 09:04 PM 3/8/97 -0400, I wrote:
>Hi Jim,

<emabarrasing stuff deleted>

That was supposed to be private email.  Sorry for wasting bandwidth.


Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 21:24:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

At 08:13 PM 3/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Folks,
>
>I was asked by a coule of people to send this info out again, so here it
goes. > >We are looking at reproducing the difficult to locate 70-72 Auto
Trans >Console Indicator. >This is the one that has P R N D S L on it. I have
about 30 orders already. >I'm looking to get 50 before I repop them. $24.00 ea
new. Let us know if >your interested. > >Jim Chermack >'70 Cutlass SX W-32
>'72 442 >Virginia  Beach, VA >(757) 474-0869 > > > > > >If that console
indicator will work on my '77 olds cutlass center console i'm game. Any info
on the fiber optic light thats there?? let me know.Can Email me at
sheep542@mindspring.com

Thanks, Aaron
>

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 00:36:46 -0400
Subject: Re: The virus outbreak in MI

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> The Toro virus has struck here in MI... went an made the down payment
> on a '68 Toro Friday.

Yikes!  The Rocket Scientist goes BIG time!

> ...this one is a SW US car- TX or NM or maybe Mexico, not sure yet.
> VERY rustless, nice chrome.

Cool.  This sounds like an excellent ride, Chris.

> So, now I'm thinking Personal Driver status... I even have a "Toro"
> engine in the garage ready to go while the original motor gets gone
> thru: a 67 425 block with '72 Toro intake & heads.

Good.  Good.

> He also says that the family has stached away 2-3 early Toros including
> an untitled factory experimental unit-parts condition...

WHAT???  WHAT???  I need more info on this one.  Parts condition or not,
this may be reason to sell the sailboat.

> no telling WHAT they have there.

DO tell.

> I've wanted a driver Toro for a long time now, this one was a deal too
> good to pass up. Virus? what Virus? I feel fine! Really...!

Yeah.  That what we ALL said.  You'll be needing a visit to the Toro site
at http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html, subscr*bing to the list,
joining the registry, and all that.  Only thing to do when you have the
virus.  No known cure, you know.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 23:02:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

Jim,
   As you probably know by now, I am interested in that.  Just got back from
sea, will get ahold of you next week about the console plate.  Take care.

Mark Heiser

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 18:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Driveshaft vibrations

> Last weekend I replaced the factory u-joints because there was over 110k
> miles on them.  Now when I am doing 50 to 60mph I get a huge buzzing
> noise and the car starts to slightly shimmy.  What did I do wrong when
> installing the new u-joints?

Tim, the driveshaft and pinion flange are no longer indexed.  Even though
the pinion flange is attached to the pinion gear in such a way as to
minimize runout, some wobble still exists.  Also, the driveshaft
usually isn't in perfect balance, and/or has some degree of runout.  Since
the driveshaft can be mounted in only 1 of 2 ways (more in the case of
double cardan joints - Olds 98 people, watch out!), the imbalance/runout
in both pieces can either be additive, which is possibly happening
in your case, or the forces can somewhat cancel.  Try unbolting the
shaft, rotate it 180 degrees, then reattach.  It is often a good idea to
scribe a mark to indicate the relative positioning of driveline
components.  I recently found out that GM started (in the '90s) using a
systems balancing approach to rear axles, and special balance weights are
attached to the pinion dust cover; these aren't the same weights used to
help compensate for excessive runout.  If the pinion flange is removed on
these vehicles, it is imperative that it be aligned with the spline in
exactly the same position upon reassembly.  If repositioning the
driveshaft relative to the pinion flange doesn't help, you might have to
use the hose clamp balancing method, which can work quite effectively.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 23:42:32 -0400
Subject: Re: The virus outbreak in MI

At 07:40 PM 3/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey, folks, just stopped by to say howdy.
>Will try to keep this concise so as not to perturb those folks who so despise
>"long winded" messages :-)

So, come on over to the Toro list; we *welcome* drawn-out, long-winded
not-specifically-Toronado (or sometimes even Oldsmobile) posts... ;)

>The Toro virus has struck here in MI... went an made the down payment on a
'68 >Toro Friday. Was advertised in the paper as "two Olds engines, and a 68
Toro >goes with." Generally, if the body is not described as pretty, one can
assume >that it's very rusty. So, naturally, I was thinking "parts." Big-valve
C's, >maybe a forged crank. Had to investigate, of course.

BTW, has anyone ever *actually* found a forged crank in a '68 Toro? Just
curious...

>On the contrary, this one is a SW US car- TX or NM or maybe Mexico, not sure
>yet. VERY rustless, nice chrome. Original 455 had been extracted due to
"lower >end knock under hard acceleration" which sounds just like spark knock
to me. >Anyhow, spare motor is a '78 Toro 403 and drivetrain to boot. Vinyl
top needs >redone, has cruise, hole where radio was, 8-track. Green exterior,
greenish >interior in really nice shape.

This must be '68 week (I've cluttered up the Toro archives with a recent
find); sounds like a sweet deal! And don't worry about the green color; it
kind of grows on you (the green on my '69 Toro did, though the doctors have
been successful in removing most of it...)

>So, now I'm thinking Personal Driver status... I even have a "Toro" engine in
>the garage ready to go while the original motor gets gone thru: a 67 425
block >with '72 Toro intake & heads.

That would be without the "not so desireable" divorced choke stove that
would have originally come on the '68.

>after the AZ run... so I still have some cash. He also says that the family
has >stached away 2-3 early Toros including an untitled factory experimental
unit- >parts condition, might be ready to clean 'em out this year... and
another >family garage stash which might include engines and a tri-carb setup-
the folks >used to hang out with Bill Porterfield & Olds Experimental
engineers... no >telling WHAT they have there.

Wow; I'd be cashing in my frequent-flyer miles and checking into one-way
rentals of car carriers, if those rumors turned out to be true! I'd
seriously like one of those low-rise 3x2 intakes, ala the XX or the Gran
Turismo. Heck, I'd even take just an intake and carb with an integral choke
and no leaking well-plugs!

>I've wanted a driver Toro for a long time now, this one was a deal too good
to >pass up. Virus? what Virus? I feel fine! Really...!

I just drove the '69 out today; great driver, it is! As long as you don't
mind people telling you what a nice car you've got... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 15:14:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

>>If that console indicator will work on my '77 olds cutlass center console
>i'm game. Any info on the fiber optic light thats there?? let me know.Can
>Email me at sheep542@mindspring.com
>
>Thanks, Aaron
>>
FWIW I've seen legnths of fiper optic strands at the local hobby store.
About 24'' long and in varying thickness.  Priced something like .35 to 1.00
a strand depending on thickness.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 17:22:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

Any idea who could reproduce the console shift indicator plate in a '63
starfire?  Its about 3x7" flat clear plastic with shift indications
engraved and painted white.  Even a good used one I would consider
restoring.

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 00:38:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

At 05:22 PM 3/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Any idea who could reproduce the console shift indicator plate in a '63
>starfire?  Its about 3x7" flat clear plastic with shift indications
>engraved and painted white.  Even a good used one I would consider
>restoring.


John

        If the plate is intack and somewhat readable I can reproduce it.
It's going to be about $35.00 for a one off piece. Just ship it to me and it
will take about two weeks before you get the new one. Your old one will be
returned also.

My address is

Jim Chermack
1132 Chatmoss Drive
Virginia Beach VA 23464

Thanks,

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 00:43:55 -0400
Subject: RE: Parts for sale

At 09:47 PM 2/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>----------
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of James & Joanne Chermack
>Sent: Sunday, February 23, 1997 9:49 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Parts for sale
>
>Hi there again!!,
>
>       Want to know about the ' 67 wheel covers. If they are good I would
love >to buy them!!! Send me some info at: > >dsm137@gti.net > >Thanks ,Dan.


Dan
        These lokk pretty nice. I only have two of them.

Thanks,

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 00:55:53 -0400
Subject: Lansing Dates/Info?

Sorry to ask, as I'm sure this has been covered by someone before, but what
are the dates for the Lansing Centennial? I saw lots of bandwidth on details,
but didn't retain what the actual dates are. Also if anyone would be good
enough to provide a quick summary, that would be a real help for me and
perhaps newcomers to the list.

TIA
cf

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 02:12:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

At 01:59 PM 3/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>On Sat, 8 Mar 1997 SRB442@aol.com wrote:
>> << At 08:04 PM 3/7/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>  >Hey Guys, I'm lookin' for a fuel pump for my '71 350 4bbl w/air(2-line).
>>  >AC has discontinued and Carter doesn't even list it any longer. Nothings
>>  >really wrong with mine, but since I'm doing an engine overhaul I'd like
>>  >to stick a new one on. Do I have a choice other than the Olds resoration
>>  >catalogs?
>>  Try your local A/C Delco dealer. I just got one for my 70 442 with A/C and
>> it was right on the shelf. I have found out over the years that just
because >> the parts guy says they don't have it or can't get it is not always
true. I >> have had someone at a parts store tell me they don't have it and
talk to >> someone else and all of a sudden they have it in stock. My parts
book lists >> 68-74 4 BC part number 7035031. I would think that is very
common. If you >> don't want stock you could always get a chrome holley
mechanical for around >> $50. > >Sorry for a dumb question, but where does the
second line on a 2-line >fuel pump come from? And what is it's purpose? Any
advantage to >converting to one? > >When we did the 4-barrel switchover on my
'68 last year we didn't change >the fuel pump, and it seems fine, but now I'm
wondering... > >Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova
Scotia, Canada > Somewhere in the lat '60s or early '70s, I don't remember
exactly anymore, they discovered that they could alter how the fuel pump
works, and greatly improve certain aspects of the fuel system.

On a one pipe system, occasionally the fuel pump strokes on a closed carb.
When this happens you either wreck the fuel pump or allow for it, by
designing a pass thru on the stroke.  This allows the fuel pump arm to move
without continuing to try to pump fuel into the carb.

When regulations were written that required a closed fuel system, the return
line, and, a two line pump was designed.  The fuel pump works at its full
stroke each time, but after the fuel is shut off at the carb. it is
continued back to the tank.  This made the fuel pump sturdier and kept the
fuel cooler, both desirable features.  It was as responsible for the rather
low incedence of vapor lock today as anything.

A one line fuel pump only directs fuel to the carb., a two line to the carb,
and back to the fuel tank.

The Wiz

P.S. There is only one in line, with two going out.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 06:45:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Lansing Dates/Info?

On Sun, 9 Mar 1997, Christian Fair wrote:
> Sorry to ask, as I'm sure this has been covered by someone before, but what
> are the dates for the Lansing Centennial? I saw lots of bandwidth on
details, > but didn't retain what the actual dates are. Also if anyone would
be good > enough to provide a quick summary, that would be a real help for me
and perhaps > newcomers to the list.

Here's the info from an earlier post. It is scheduled for August 20-23 in
Lansing. They expect to have 2000+ automobiles and 325 vendors present.
They are arranging tours and other activities in addition to the show
itself. Apparently 7 hotels are already sold out and to get reservations
you need to call the Greater Lansing Visitors and Convention Bureau at
800-648-6630. The contacts at Olds are:

Bob Jarboe 517-885-1747
John Angell 517-377-6178
Mary Jo Ring 517-885-1750

They are preparing a registration package so it might be worthwhile to put
your name on any list they are maintaining. It sounds like a good time
and I'm looking forward to being there!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Countrywide Tri-County Realty Inc." <ctrywide@glen-net.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 13:12:49 -0400
Subject: Restoring cutlass 442

Hi am looking for info on suppiers to purchase parts for my 1980 olds
cutlass 442 w30 in order to restore it to its original condition.
I would also like to increase performance !
Any recomendations ?


Bryan Shane

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 10:25:57 -0400
Subject: Shocks for a '72 Cutlass

Boyz/Girlz,

Greetings again from over here on the "Dark Side" (the Toro List).  Got a
question for my "other car" I think many of you can answer.

The front end of my '72 Cutlass S is a bit floaty, although handling is
greatly improved with a new set of BFG T/As - I think some stiffer gas
shocks all the way around would be the ticket.  Has anyone done this, and if
so, can you recommend a particular brand/source?

Thanks in advance, and since I'm just poking my head in from the outside,
PLEASE RESPOND DIRECTLY TO ME AT THE E-MAIL ADDRESS BELOW!

Gregg Ludlam - '67 Toronado Deluxe, '72 Cutlass S
See me and the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Robert F Turner)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 11:03:37 -0400
Subject: Re: CERAMIC COATED RUST

On Mon, 4 Nov 1996 22:26:06 -0400 CHRIS MATTHES <CDOGG73@ELKNET.NET>
writes:
>does anyone know why my new, never driven, only bolted on to the car,
>and
>then sat all winter, $300 ceramic coated hedders are rusting???
>
>i'd like to know.
>
I have an idea, but am not sure. Were these ceramic coated headers coated
on the inside as well? Are there any chips in the ceramic coating?? These
two factors would contribute to them rusting. I would consider contacting
the supplier you purchased them from and check on a repair or
replacement. Good luck.

Katana72 @ juno.com  >

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 11:04:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Shocks for a '72 Cutlass

Greg,
    You would probably be better off going with the new spring change out.
 Gm had weak coil springs in the early 70's and as a shock may work, it may
not last long.

   Mark heiser

  71 Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 11:18:53 -0400
Subject: Parts Request - '68 & '70 Cutlasses

Posting for a friend...

Looking for a pair of rear seat armrest ashtrays for a '68 4-4-2. Need
the original style with ther ribbed cover, not the smooth style.

Also seeking a '70 sport steering wheel hub and center cap, prefer black
or green.

Please respond directly to me at the address below if you can help. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 13:57:47 -0400
Subject: Re: The virus outbreak in MI

Mike Frederick wrote:

> > He also says that the family has stached away 2-3 early Toros including
> > an untitled factory experimental unit-parts condition...

We need more data on this!

Sparky
- --
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 12:17:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Restoring cutlass 442

At 01:12 PM 3/9/97 -0400, Countrywide Tri-County Realty Inc. wrote:
>Hi am looking for info on suppiers to purchase parts for my 1980 olds
>cutlass 442 w30 in order to restore it to its original condition.
>I would also like to increase performance !
>Any recomendations ?

Hey, nice car! Tell a little more about it: color, etc. What kind of parts
are you looking for? Most parts interchange off of 78-87 Cutlass's. Almost
every Cutlass Calais that I have encountered has nearly identical interior
parts. The body parts will be the same as the 78-87 models with again some
exceptions depending on the part. The parts that are 442 exclusive and I
imagine are very hard to find are the emblems (both interior and outside).
The stripe kit is identical to a 79 H/O as are the W-30 decals.
As for performance the easiest way to get the most bang for the buck is
nitrous oxide. Next would be to go with 3.73 gears, better breathing (OAI or
Ram Air setup for example) and free flowing exhaust (2.5" or 3") With the
exhaust it would be wise to convert to an aftermarket high flowing catalytic
convertor or if you have no emissions testing where you live go with an
off-road pipe in place of the cat. The original equipment cat of the 80 is
the very restrictive pellet type convertor.Good luck.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..soon to be a born again junkyard car.

------------------------------

From: jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 15:17:23 -0400
Subject: Re: The virus outbreak in MI

Greg Kalkhoff wrote:
>
> Mike Frederick wrote:
>
> > > He also says that the family has stached away 2-3 early Toros including
> > > an untitled factory experimental unit-parts condition...
>
> We need more data on this!
>
> Sparky
> --
> Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
> Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html >
http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm > AKA "Sparky"

Sparky and Toromates
 What is the vector for this strange virus. God forbid if it gets into
the vent system.
Reg

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 15:39:20 -0400
Subject: Re: The Toro virus outbreak in MI

Jeramy Goble wrote:
>
> Sparky and Toromates
> What is the vector for this strange virus. God forbid if it gets into
> the vent system.

It worse than that, Reg.  It's optical.  You just have to see one to get
the bug.  Sunglass are no help.

This would also explain why the F*ord and Ch*vy guys are always running
around with the noses in the air.   ;)

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 14:48:16 -0400
Subject: Re: The Toro virus outbreak in MI

Mike Frederick wrote:

> It's optical.

Don't rule out Pavlovian either!

> This would also explain why the F*ord and Ch*vy guys are always running
> around with the noses in the air.   ;)

Naw, They are just trying to find good air as they avoid thier own blow-by. (;

Sparky
- --
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 14:44:46 -0400
Subject: Re:Axle shaft and oil seal

 Thanks for the input, Wiz.
Unfortunately, by the time it reached my mailbox, I had already gone out for
the day. A person at the parts counter at Parts USA (Pep Boys) was able to
find what I beleive to be the correct oil seal. His catalog showed the same
part numbers for all 1965 models except 'J-88'. That made perfect sense to me
because someone here said that the Jetstar 88 ran the 200R transmission,
which is smaller, right?

So anyway, I had the oil seal, but I didn't know what I was doing (Chassis
Manual should arrive this week-yay!). I actually managed to pull the axle
shaft without much puzzling or fuss (I was so proud of myself). That was when
I had to stop.

The oil seal, logically, belongs somewhere between the wheel bearing and the
retaining plate. The wheel bearing is physically bigger than the oil seal,
and so is the buisiness end of the axle shaft. Thus it is impossible to
install the oil seal without doing something else first, as it cannot pass
the larger features of the shaft. Do I have to 'sweat' the wheel bearing and
inner "collar" (for want of the proper name) off of the axle shaft (~3ft!)?
Tell me that there is a tool for this!

Mr. Paulison was kind enough to give the short course on changing rear diff
fluid. I believe I've located the drain plug, but couldn't budge it. It is a
plug with a recess for a square 3/8" key, right? Just like the 3/8" drive on
a socket wrench. Again, is there a tol for this, Craftsman didn't have -any-
kind of square keys, or square key bits, or square key sockets. I can guess
that a lot of you out there probably just use the drive key of a 3/8" socket
wrenches, but I would prefer to find the proper tool (the drive keys tend to
have edges that are subtly rounded, and I would rather not have the wrench
slip out of the plug when I have 1 ton of car suspended above me!)

Incidentally, thanks to someone for suggesting swapping the
washer-pump-to-window-jets hoses, now I know I just have a clogged window
jet. Gee, just when I am about to solve the washer pump problem....

Thanks all

Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Dynamic 88

Speak softly and carry a big roll of duct tape.

------------------------------

From: Matthew Butler <matthewbutler@oscsystems.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 15:03:50 -0400
Subject: W31 455 motor for sale

Howdy All!!!

I cam across a W31 455  this weekend.  It has had all the machine work
done for a standard rebuild.  Line bored .030, forged pistons, G heads.  I
wasn't able to get the Crank type or block, but this machinest does really
great work.  The motor was left by it's owner, who opted for a
remanufactured engine after the machinist had already done the work.
So, all the machining has been done and it all looks like new.

Write me back if you are interested and I will, put you in touch with him...

Matt Butler

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 15:50:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

At 08:13 PM 3/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Folks,
>
>I was asked by a coule of people to send this info out again, so here it
goes. > >We are looking at reproducing the difficult to locate 70-72 Auto
Trans >Console Indicator. >This is the one that has P R N D S L on it. I have
about 30 orders already. >I'm looking to get 50 before I repop them. $24.00 ea
new. Let us know if >your interested. > >Jim Chermack >'70 Cutlass SX W-32
>'72 442 >Virginia  Beach, VA >(757) 474-0869 > > >Jim can you reproduce that
indicator for my 1977 olds cutlass Supreme?? If so count me in. Please let me
know.

Thanks

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 15:57:37 -0400
Subject: Re: W31 455 motor for sale

  You guys will have to forgive my ignorance on this.
 I have always thoought  that W31 indicated a small block car and W30
indicated a big block car.   Have i been wrong all these years???


J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:09:37 -0400
Subject: Misaligned center console

      Ok here's what happened: My wife was using my car one day. It seems
that she could not get the shifter on the center console out of "park"
(probaly did not use t-handle to release it) anyway her along with two of
her friends all pulled and forced the shift handle out of park. The result
is that Reverse is indicated by the letter "N", neutral is now the "D",
drive is now "L" and so on down the line. What do I do to fix this. Car is
safe to drive but problem is annoying.

Aaron D Eoff
77 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:14:18 -0400
Subject: 67 Olds Parking lights

   Just a couple of questions about the parking lights on my Olds.
1.  Are the parking lights supposed to be on when the headlights are on?
     Mine look like they have been disconnected and don't work when the head
lights
     are on.  But when i have the light switch pulled out halfway the
passenger side
      parking light is turned on.
      I would really like to have them on when the headlights are running but
don't
      know if that is the way they are supposed to work

2.   What color are the light bulbs supposed to be?  Orange or white?

   Thanks ---- J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:27:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Olds Parking lights

The answer is yes, they should be on.
As for light color, I honestly don't know. However, I have one white
turnsignal light in front with the other one orange. I suppose from this that
either a wrong part was swapped in, or perhaps white was an original color
that safety regulations mandated a switch to yellow...
In any event, all modern cars have yellow turn signals and parking (running?)
lights.
Most likely the fault is in the light switch although in me experience the
switch itself gets blamed a few times too often. Someone else ferhaps has
experience in this area.


Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Dynamic 88

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:46:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Olds Parking lights

On Sun, 9 Mar 1997 J2RKT@aol.com wrote:
>    Just a couple of questions about the parking lights on my Olds.
> 1.  Are the parking lights supposed to be on when the headlights are on?
>      Mine look like they have been disconnected and don't work when the head
> lights
>      are on.  But when i have the light switch pulled out halfway the
> passenger side
>       parking light is turned on.

At some point it was mandated that the parking lights be on along with
the headlights. When that took place I can only guess: my '64 does not
have this feature, my '68 does. What way it was supposed to be for '67 I
can only guess, and my guess would be that they shouldn't be on.

> 2.   What color are the light bulbs supposed to be?  Orange or white?

Amber, I think.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:47:34 -0400
Subject: Re: W31 455 motor for sale

On Sun, 9 Mar 1997 J2RKT@aol.com wrote:

>   You guys will have to forgive my ignorance on this.
>  I have always thoought  that W31 indicated a small block car and W30
> indicated a big block car.   Have i been wrong all these years???

You're not wrong... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:57:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Olds Parking lights

Hi,
    I have  a 1967 442 and the parking lights in the front only work on the
first notch on the headlite switch. When the headlites are on the front
parking go out. You should use a 1157A (amber) bulb.
                                                         Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 17:19:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Restoring cutlass 442

   Actually ----   I don't know a thing about restoring cars, but i might be
able to help you in the performance department.

  1.  I'm not sure if your car is computor controlled, but if it is not you
can start by
       doing some --- hot rod tuning with the ignition.  Such as installing
an aftermarket
       coil from a manufacturer such as Accel or Mallory and a set of spiral
core
       sparkplug wires.  I would also recommend installing a set of platinum
tipped
       sparkplugs.  I've tried the U-groove sparkplugs and haven't noticed a
difference
       in my gas mileage or performance at the track.
       There are two ways to set your ignition timing that i have discovered
that work
       for me, by ear and with the timing light.
       When i set timing by ear i simply advance the timing with the vacuum
advance
       connected until i hear the engine start to run rough or misfire and
then retard the
       timing until the engine is running at it's highest smoothest idle
speed and then
       take the car around the block to see if it pings or knocks at any
point if it does
       ping at any point then i retard the timing just a tiny bit each time
until the car
       doesn't ping any more.  After that i take the car out on the freeway
and get it up
       to about 45 mph and try accelerating relatively slowly up to about 70
mph by
       by using about three quarter throttle to see if there is any
hesitation or surging
       usually you can tell if the car is still running too much timing if
you are on the
       the freeway and the car bogs or flutters when you floor it without
kicking in the
       downshift mode.
       Setting the timing with a timing light is much easier --- Generally
speaking --
       most GM cars can tolerate between 10 and 12 degrees initial timing
without
       pinging and without any mechanical modifications to the distributor --
ive seen
       high altitude cars run as much as 14 degrees intitial without a
problem except
       for a weak battery.  I would still check the way the car runs on the
freeway
       for any flutter, hesitation, surge, or bog.  The freeway testing is to
catch any
       detonation or preignition that you may not catch by just listening for
pinging.

 2.   Induction system/Fuel system.
       If you plan on keeping the stock aircleaner on the car ---- get a K&N
air filter
       element --- it's kindof pricey but it's worth it.  You can also try
flipping the
       air cleaner housing lid to expose the full air filter element for
better airflow to
       the carbureter.
       Edlebrock and Holley both sell high volume mechanical fuel pumps ---
the
       Edlebrock unit comes with all of the fittings and adapters you might
need
       to hook up all of your evap and emissions stuff. I highly recommend
the
       Edlebrock pump.  Edlebrock also sell a complete assortment of  primary

       jets and metering rods for the Quadrajet carb and they also have a
complete
       assortment of secondary metering rods, and an adjustable secondary air
valve
       diaphram for the Quadrajet.  By the way the i have discovered that the
Quadrajet
       jets work just fine in the Rochester 2bbl carbureters.  The tuning is
up to you.
       But a general rule of thumb is --- if it bogs your not getting enough
fuel --- if it
       feels sluggish and lazy you've got too much fuel.

3.     Exhaust system --- Flowmaster sells a three chamber muffler for the
Chevy
        truck with a 3" inlet and dual 2-1/4" outlets with a little
imagination i bet
        that would be a killer muffler for your car.

        I have tuned up to three seconds off of stock daily driver cars using
just the
        above stated tuning methods and have gotten an average of three miles
per
        gallon better gas mileage.

  hope that helps out some.


             J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Dan Miller" <Dsm137@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 16:59:16 -0400
Subject: RE: Floor pan installer

Aaron,
     The last time I needed some welding done.....on my 1978 Plymouth it
was.....I went to a guy named Bruno.....He is on John St. in Morristown.....I
think he called himself General Welding...give him a try!!
Dan

- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of Aaron D Eoff
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 1997 12:29 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Floor pan installer

Need any inforamtion from olds owners who can recommend someone to install a
floor pan on a 1977 Olds cutlass. I Have had the pan for 2 mos. and every
place i have been to wants to do cut it up or use something else
altogtether. I live in northern NJ and  I am willing to travel if necessary.
The floor pan is actually for an El Camino or Chevelle 73-77. I Bought it
based on reccomendations from this list which proved to be very helpful.
Thanks in advance to all the responders.

AAron

------------------------------

From: Greg Yonge <gsyonge@genesisnetwork.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 17:49:42 -0400
Subject: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications

Anyone know of any performance modifications that can be made to a '92 Achieva
with the H.O. engine?

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª554
********************************
