To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #560


oldsmobile-digest          Friday, 14 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 560

New York
Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants
Re: Resetting Lock Cylinder Tumblers
J.C. Worthless...the saga continues...
Re: 10 sec. 70 cutlass
Re: 10.46 sec. GN.? Hmmm... (was: 200-4R)
Re: Another FAQ
1970 442
Lock Tumblers
Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams
Re: Oil seals and axle shafts- a saga
Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants
Re: Dennis Casteele
Re: Re[2]: 67 parking lights
72 hurst/olds
Re: 72 hurst/olds
Re: 1970 442
Re: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams
Re: Dennis Casteele
Fender Liners
Fender Liners
Re: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams
W30 Thermostat
Re: 260 vs. 350
Re: Dustin Cross
Re: Resetting Lock Cylinder Tumblers
Re: Lock Tumblers
Re: Dipstick Tube/ Motor mounts/Oiling System
Re: Lock Tumblers
For sale
Re: Lock Tumblers
Re: J.C. Worthless...the saga continues...
Re: Well wishes
Re: Extra Capacity Oil Pans
Misaligned center console
Re: 260 vs. 350
Re: Cars for Sale
Re: Sedan Delivery??
'67 Super Rocket
455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?
Sway bars
Re: shoulder belts
Re: Re[2]: 67 parking lights
Re: 67 parking lights
Re: 10.46 sec. GN.? Hmmm... (was: 200-4R)
Re: Lock Tumblers
Re: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams
Re: Fender Liners
Re: 72 hurst/olds
Re: W30 Thermostat
Re: '68 Cutlass Exhaust Question
Re: J.C. Worthless...the saga continues...
Re: Fender Liners
Re: Fender Liners
Re: 260 vs. 350
Re: 72 hurst/olds
Re: Resetting Lock Cylinder Tumblers
Which rear end do I need?
Re: 10 sec. 70 cutlass
RE:  Front Suspension Problem
Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?
Re: Sway bars
Re: Fender Liners
RE:  Front Suspension Problem
Re: Misaligned center console
Re[2]: Another FAQ
Re: New York
Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?
Fuel Filter Replacement...
Re: Manuals

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 14:51:33 -0400
Subject: New York

Is anybody in here from the new york area (sometimes i think i am the only
one) and has any advice on  where i could get a paint job for a resonable
price and some body work...i have also been looking for a decent junkyard or
someplace i could pick up a rear passenger side tail light...and some other
odds and ends for a 85 Delta 88
thanx in advance...

- ------------------------------------------
Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
junior627@aol.com
1985 Delta 88 Royale 2 door
V6 231 3.8 L Rwd.
- ------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 17:07:25 -0400
Subject: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants

In early April, I will be changing my ring gear and pinion and installing a
anti-spin carrier. I am considering replacing the gear oil with a synthetic
blend. I found this web site:
http://internetpromotions.com/oil/default.html. Does anyone have any
experience with or opinions about Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

John
+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:16:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Resetting Lock Cylinder Tumblers

MPHeiser@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> If anyone knows how to reset the lock tumblers for a 71 Cutlass console
lock, > please let me know...or even if you can.  I know you can do the door
locks, > but I'm unsure of this one.  Thanks! > > Mark Heiser > 71 Cutlass S

Mark,

A locksmith can reset all of the locks.  You can get the settings to
macth anything that you want.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 19:22:23 -0400
Subject: J.C. Worthless...the saga continues...

	Hey guys!
As at least some of you probibly recall, I posted about ordering some
stuff from J.C. you know who a few weeks ago and they did'nt give me quite
what I asked for.  I had ordered a muffler (got what I expected by some
odd miracle) and a gasket set for that '82 Buick with the 3.0 V6.  Well,
the gasket set was missing the intake manifold gasket, and when I called
about it, they said that they would send me the missing part at no
charge...in 7 to 10 business days!!  Well, I got tired of waiting for the
stupid thing and just decided to spring for one from Checker auto.  They
had it in stock (Fel-Pro too!) but it was almost $30!!  Oh well, I guess
thats the price you pay.  At least they included a little tube of black
RTV to seal the water ports and end seals.
	So anyway, yesterday my stuff from Whitney finally arrived.  I
opened the box expecting to find my intake set only to find...another
complete gasket set missing the intake gasket!!!!  AAAAAAAA!!  I can't
believe how bad they can screw this stuff up.  So now, I have to eat the
$30 for my intake set, and I have a brand new complete Fel-Pro overhaul
set...minus the intake set.
	I have a feeling this is the last time I'm going to order from
these clowns for a very long time.  I don't know, I had bad problems with
them seven years ago, and it looks like they really have'nt improved.
	
	So, if anybody out there is rebuilding a Buick 3.0/3.8 litre
engine, let me know.  I'll let you have that gasket set for $30 plus
shipping...to cover my intake set.  It's Fel-Pro and even has Viton valve
seals.   Anyway, I guess this is just another "Buyer beware..."

				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Robert F Turner)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:11:13 -0400
Subject: Re: 10 sec. 70 cutlass

On Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:07:29 -0400 "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)"
<sparks@aisf.com> writes:
>Robert F Turner wrote:
>
>> I beg to differ. Contact Ray Hauser, 804-498-8316. I personally saw
>him
>> take a 70 C/S and bring it into 7.99. dual quads, good cam, good
>exhaust,
>> good 455 motor, etc.
>> I think he's got Mondello beat in almost any aspect.
>
>7.99 sec quarter mile?!?!?!?  Wooooooooooooooow!
>
>Chris Sparks
>68 442
>
>I was worng, It was 8.99, no nitrous, either

------------------------------

From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@mail.bright.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:22:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 10.46 sec. GN.? Hmmm... (was: 200-4R)

O.K.  Here's what I've found regarding "a" 10 sec. GN with a stock 3.8.  In
the November/December issue of GS X-TRA (courtesy of a work colleague who
owns a GN) they have an article which details the teardown  of a stock
bodied T-type (must be b/c the color is white) with a never disassembled 3.8
which is running in the 10's. Exact times not given??  The guys name who
owns the car is Tim Stockwell.  He had recently blown the engine at a drag
strip after running 10 sec. passes and claiming his engine was stock.  After
blowing the engine, the car was taken to Red Armstrongs garage.  The engine
was subsequently disassembled and all components measured and inspected for
OEM authenticity. Except for valve springs, the engine was determined to be
bone stock.  To get 10 sec. performance out of the car, the turbo boost was
set to nearly 30 psi.!!!  BTW-  When the engine blew, it was a head gasket
that finally went south.  Go figure.


Kevin Hoopingarner
70 442 W-30
Findlay Oh.

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:37:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Another FAQ

Robert Barry wrote:
> Thanks a lot, Dave; excellent job!

I agree, kudos to everybody involved!
It really is a must-have for any Olds enthusiast.

- --

+-----------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

 adcockjk@erols.com
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

+-----------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Brady Gage <bgage@teleport.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:47:39 -0400
Subject: 1970 442

I was wondering if anybody knew the value of a 1970 Oldmobile 442. I
would like to know the price of the car in average condition. The car
has been driven daily since new. Any help is appreciated.

- -Brady

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:47:33 -0400
Subject: Lock Tumblers

Hi everybody,

On the driver's side of my Calais, the lock is _REALLY_ hard to unlock.
On cold mornings, it feels like I'm going to twist the key right off.
The passenger side is fine...I suppose that is due to the greatly
reduced exterior lock usage on that side (power door locks).  Anyway,
does the stiff lock (tumbler ?) mean I need a new lock set?  I figure it
does.  Thanks in advance for your help.

- --

+-----------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

 adcockjk@erols.com
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

+-----------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 18:11:00 -0400
Subject: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams

I dug out my info on the HEI weights/cam set-ups that will give you more
mechanical advance than normal.  They are found in the following cars:


Engine:		Deg. Mech. Adv.
 -----------		-------------------------
Olds 260 V8
Pontiac Ventura
1975		28 deg.
1976		26 deg.

Olds Cutlass
Buick Apollo/Skylark (I got it right this time, it's a Buick Apollo)
1975		28 deg
1976		26,28 deg
1977		26 deg.

Remember, you don't need the whole distributor, just the center cam and
the advance weights.  I'm using #139 weights and #410 (I think)
distributor cam.  This gives me around 29 deg of mechanical advance.  I
can thus set total advance (which is the sum of initial and mechanical)
to 39-40 deg, and still have an initial of 10, which allows for easy
starting.  However, I don't care what the initial timing is, and I never
check it (because it doesn't matter) other than when I've had the
distributor out of the engine.

For some reason a lot of people seem concerned about initial timing.  It
has virtually nothing to do with performance.  The measurement you
should focus on is total timing advance and the advance curve.  You want
as much advance as you can get, coming in at the lowest RPM possible
without detonation.  Put a timing tape on your harmonic balancer.
Unplug the vacuum advance from the manifold vacuum and try various
distributor springs to get  your mechanical advance started around 1500
rpm and all in by 3000 rpm or so.  One of those engine analyzers with a
tach in it is crucial here to map out the amount of advance at a given
RPM.  Also, rev the motor right to 5500 rpm to check for timing scatter.
 It is important to check the top end (5000-6000 rpm) for timing
fluctuations, as it is a good indicator of a worn/loose distributor.  By
using one of the timing lights with the adjustable dial on the back, you
are only simulating the revs.  Put a timing tape on the balancer ($10
from Summit) and rev the motor for real!

Make sure you are using the octane gas that you normally will run, and
that you are testing on a day with average weather.  Setting the timing
on a 95 deg. day will result in too mild of a curve, just as setting it
on a 50 deg. fall day will be too aggressive for summer driving.  Intake
air temperature and fuel octane have significant effects on detonation.
Cooler air/higher octane fuel let you set a more agressive timing curve.
 That's why the W30 had OAI and a recurved distributor.    You can then
road test the car (with the vacuum advance disconnected) to find
detonation at various rpms.  Go back and try different
spring/distributor cam/weight combinations to alter the curve to
eliminate detonation spots.  By drawing a curve on a graph (using the
total advance measured at various rpms using your timing light and the
timing tape) you can compare this curve with your observed detonation
points and then reshape the curve with different springs/weights/
distributor cams to arrive at the desirable setting.

When you have your mechanical advance curve set up, install a Crane
adjustable vacuum advance and follow their instructions for setting it
to eliminate part throttle opening detonation.  I highly recommend this
part.  The next time someone asks you your initial timing setting, tell
them you don't know/don't care, because you will have spent your effort
where it counts, namely in setting the total advance and the advance
curve.  By using a stock GM HEI distributor, you are ensured a ready
supply of cheap (usually free) parts and performance that is more than
adequate for the serious street car.  Have fun, wear safety glasses when
revving the motor (in case of broken belts and the dirt flying around at
5500 rpm) and keep your fingers out of belts/fan blades.

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:05:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil seals and axle shafts- a saga

 Hi all!

Got the chassis manual for my gOldsmobile today, this should shed a little
light on this thread....

Hmmm. Hmmmmmmmm.

According to the diagrams (arrows vaguely point to general areas) the oil
seals fit in recesses in the axle tube immediately on the inside (?) of the
wheel bearing. If this is so, I could have swapped the new one in last
Saturday when I had the shaft out! I just couldn't discern a seal in there.
Supposedly, I shouldn't have to remove the wheel bearings at all! (read as '
Do not have to spend money already allocated.') In this light, I can see
where I would have to replace the seals when replacing the wheel bearings but
not necessarily the wheel bearings when doing the seals. So, It looks like
I'll be doing the exact same thing this Saturday as last.

Not being cheap here, just trying to save myself a trip to and from the
machine shop twice in Saturday traffic. Also having the axle out of my daily
driver leaves me with a small transport problem (read as see also reason
number one).

Incidentally, I am assuming that "Sealer Part No. 1050026" is a liquid sealer
of a sort, I'll call Oldsmobile tomorrow to find out what it is exactly, and
what its modern equivalent is if discontinued.

Also, the bolts on the retaining plate should be torqued to 40 ft/lbs.

So, now that I know how to remove the oil seal, I can look forward to an
inexpensive repair weekend.

Incidentally, my car is "ocean mist" color. So that's whats caused all the
rust...


Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Duct tape to the left of me, duct tape to the right of me, repair work in
front of me. Bummer.

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:49:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants

At 05:07 PM 3/13/97 -0400, John and Elizabeth Gene wrote:
>In early April, I will be changing my ring gear and pinion and installing a
>anti-spin carrier. I am considering replacing the gear oil with a synthetic
>blend. I found this web site:
>http://internetpromotions.com/oil/default.html. Does anyone have any
>experience with or opinions about Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants?
>
>Any information would be greatly appreciated.

I don't know about Amsoil, but I use Redline Synthetic gear oil and it has
worked beautiful. Summit Racing sells it.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..soon to be a born again junkyard car.

------------------------------

From: Oldsnut1@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:03:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Dennis Casteele

"A verry good man of Olsdmobile Preservation,He is greatly missed "
I'm sad to say I never got to meet the man but am happy to at least be able
to read his work. I last saw him host the 1995 O.C.A. naitioals video (right
before he passed away)

Keep On OLDSMOBILING!!!!!!!!!!
There are enough of us out there    WE MUST MAKE OUR PRESENCE KNOWN


Anthony B.
OLDSNUT1@aol
75 H/O W-30

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:03:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 67 parking lights

At 02:43 PM 3/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>   On my Pinto i go a solid tenth of a second and a full mile per hour slower
>with my lights turned versus having my lights turned off.

Of course, if you had the headlights pointing backwards, from say the rear
bumper, you'd *gain* that 1/10th and 1 mph, as the force of the photons
would help to push the car forward, rather than pushing back against the
front grille support and slowing it down.

And if you ran quad headlights pointing off your rear bumper, you would of
course gain 2/10ths and 2 mph... Hook them to your hi-beam switch, and it
will give you a "boost" effect when you click them on.

:|

_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Joey Steffen <jmsteffen@midlink.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 01:26:37 -0400
Subject: 72 hurst/olds

I JUST BOUGHT A 72 H/O.  IS THERE ANY WAY TO TRACE DOWN ITS HISTORY.
PREVIOUS OWNERS AND/OR BUILDSHEETS,ECT.....PLEASE REPLR TO
          jmsteffen@midlink.com                        THANKS

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:41:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 hurst/olds

At 12:26 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I JUST BOUGHT A 72 H/O.  IS THERE ANY WAY TO TRACE DOWN ITS HISTORY.
>PREVIOUS OWNERS AND/OR BUILDSHEETS,ECT.....PLEASE REPLR TO

Sweet car! The first stop for you would be the Hurst/Olds Club of America;
check the Olds page ( http://www.442.com ) for how to contact them (they're
under organizations, aren't they? at least they should be).

The best place to check for the buildsheet would be under the back seat, on
top of the gas tank, or under the springs of the front seat.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:41:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 1970 442

At 07:47 PM 3/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I was wondering if anybody knew the value of a 1970 Oldmobile 442. I
>would like to know the price of the car in average condition. The car
>has been driven daily since new. Any help is appreciated.

Wow, that could be anywhere from $2000 to $20,000. A few specifics would be
needed to begin to assess its value:

1. Body Style? Is it a convertible, hardtop or post coupe?

2. Which engine? Standard 455, or W-30?

3. Which tranny? Auto? 3-spd manual? 4-spd manual?

4. Options? A/C? power disc brakes? power windows/seats? OAI hood? W-35
spoiler?

5. Color? some colors just aren't as desireable as others.

6. "Average Condition"; for Arizona or for Manhattan? Specifically, how much
rust? How many dings? Does it leak around the windows (rusted window
channels are very common, and very expensive to fix). How is the chrome?

7. Mileage? This is not too relevant, since it was a daily driver, but over
27 years, you can rack up a good number of miles, and wear things out even
if all 600,000 miles were done on the highway! Then again, I'd prefer that
situation to 27 years of 2-mile commutes, where the engine would not get up
to full operating temperature. You really should have a compression/leakdown
test done on the cylinders, check for head-gasket leaks, and check the
vacuum reading of the engine at idle.

8. Any irreversible modifications?

9. Any missing trim/interior pieces/body parts?

Once you provide the above, we can begin to give you some idea of its
value/worth.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:41:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams

At 05:11 PM 3/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I dug out my info on the HEI weights/cam set-ups that will give you more
>mechanical advance than normal.  They are found in the following cars:

[snip]

>For some reason a lot of people seem concerned about initial timing.  It
>has virtually nothing to do with performance.  The measurement you

[snip of excellent advice regarding timing]

>When you have your mechanical advance curve set up, install a Crane
>adjustable vacuum advance and follow their instructions for setting it

[snip]

>5500 rpm) and keep your fingers out of belts/fan blades.

Scott,

Thanks for the great advice! I can second the importance of using that Crane
adjustable advance unit (actually, it's an entire kit, including a vacuum
advance limiter, as well as different springs, for adjusting most aspects of
your timing; worth the $3 extra over the adj. vac. adv. unit alone).

I always had wondered about "recurving" a distributor on a distributor
machine; how can *that* be tailored to the characteristics of a street
engine? Whether an engine will ping at a certain amount of advance, or
whether its performance will improve or diminish (optimum timing isn't
*always* the MOST timing you can run, though it often is), can only be
determined by trial and error, whereas a distributor machine can only
establish that the distributor is providing a specified amount of advance at
a specified RPM.

By changing the weights, springs, etc, you are recurving the distributor,
but you're doing it to match the characteristics of *your* particular
engine, not to match some ideal curve that may or may not apply to your
engine.

So, do it yourself, use trial and error, and spend the money you saved on
having the distributor "professionally recurved" on a more helpful
modification (like converting to HEI...)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:08:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Dennis Casteele

It was my pleasure to have known Dennis Casteele, I met him in  1980 when
Mike Fusick and I went to the Nationals in  Bowling Green Ohio together.
Dennis was vending his literature.
  Kept in touch with Dennis over the years as he became more involved in the
OCA
then he talked me into vending at the Nationals in Omaha, Neb. I've been
vending ever since. I was with him in Greensboro, NC in 1995  and count it
 an honor to have known him.

Everett Horton  OCA   #`1961    (given to me by Dennis for my 61 Starfire)

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:19:54 -0400
Subject: Fender Liners

O.K. guys, you've all got me scared to death. I've read a dozen horror
stories about the replacement fender liners, from poor quality to four
month delivery. I've had a pair of black liners on order from Brother's
Automotive for almost three months. They seem to be being honest with me
about the delays, however they're not too good at returning phone calls.
Has anyone bought these from Brothers? Can anyone offer me some comfort?
			David Nye
			'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:47:00 -0400
Subject: Fender Liners

David,

    I cant offer an comfort in dealing with Brothers Automotive.  It seems
like every part they have is on back order.  Anything I ever ordered from
them took weeks to 5 months to get.  The product I received was O.K, but it
took me forever to get anything.  I have been foolin around with 4-4-2's
since 1984 and I have narrowed down my parts buying to Fusick's and
Year One (there right down the road).

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 Convt

__________________________________________________________________________

O.K. guys, you've all got me scared to death. I've read a dozen horror
stories about the replacement fender liners, from poor quality to four
month delivery. I've had a pair of black liners on order from Brother's
Automotive for almost three months. They seem to be being honest with me
about the delays, however they're not too good at returning phone calls.
Has anyone bought these from Brothers? Can anyone offer me some comfort?
			David Nye
			'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 19:01:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams

> Remember, you don't need the whole distributor, just the center cam and
> the advance weights.  I'm using #139 weights and #410 (I think)
> distributor cam.  This gives me around 29 deg of mechanical advance.  I

I was wondering if Scott or anyone else has experimented with grinding
down stock advance weights to allow for a greater amount of travel.
I've found that if the area above the asterisk is ground down such that
     ______   the ramp angle is changed on the left half of the 'active'
     \___ o|  area, the total range can be increased.  The amount of clearance
      *  | |  between the outer side of the weight and the inner walls of
      __/ /   the rotor may be a limiting factor in extreme cases.
     / 53/    BTW, what does the number on the weights refer to?  Which
     \__/     weights are the heaviest?  If I remember correctly, aren't
              #139 weights the ones with a thicker mid-section and narrow
tip, versus the style I've depicted in ASCII, where the weight section is
widest towards the tip?  BTW, the lightest factory springs I've come
across are from '77 and '78 425 Cadillacs.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:57:47 -0400
Subject: W30 Thermostat

Anybody know if the thermostat housing on a 70 W30 is painted or left
cast?  I have seen done both ways.  My  theory is the engine was
supposedly painted as a completed unit at the factory.  Thats why the
distributors had overspray on them.  I cant see a factory worker taping
off an aluminum intake and spraying the thermostat housing blue.  I think they
left it cast.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 Convt

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:11:15 -0400
Subject: Re: 260 vs. 350

3 more questions to add on to this....

is there a long and a short block 350?  what's the difference if there
is?  and as for bolt ons for 350s from 260s...
do parts like the manifolds, water pump, etc. bolt on too?


thanks again in advance

- --jj

------------------------------

From: James Pindar <jp@webspan.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 02:59:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Dustin Cross

Call Mantapart, they sell Quad 4 parts and built racing engines.
Mantapart Performance products
330 549-3188
I talked to Tim. He was very helpful. They probably have chips for the V6
as well. Also try Jacobs Electronics 800-627-8800, if not for chips, then
for other electronics.


Dustin E Cross wrote:
>
> I am looking for a good performence chip for my '89 cutlass supreme (3.1

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:15:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Resetting Lock Cylinder Tumblers

hey mark, my father is a locksmith.  if you need locks fixed, rekeyed,
changed, replaced, or modified...  he can do it.

if you need his services (or anyone else out there)

you can reach him at

<ferrero@uno.cc.geneseo.edu>

he can fix locks dateing back to the 1700's and hasn't come across a
place yet that he cant get into!

- --jj

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:24:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Lock Tumblers

you said that your lock works "tight" to the point where you feel like
you will turn the key off in the lock???

well try a few things...

first, lube it up.
2nd. look at your key...  is it worn?  can you see the brass on the
sides of the key?  if so, the driver door lock probably wore with the
key...  therefor works fine with the one lock, but the cuts may be
"too deep" for the unworn lock.

to remedie this, on the "knock out" parts of the origional keys, there
is a number.  tell this number to your local locksmith (or my dad)
and he can make you a new key back to factory specks.  this wont affect
the operation of the "worn" lock because the tollerances have become a
lot looser.


If that doesn't work, look at the linkage inside your door.  if a cop
had to use a "slim jim" to get you in one time when you locked your keys
in your car, they may have "bowed" your linkage...  just straighten it
out, (to the way it should be), lube the joints,  and give it a try.

if you still have problems, let me know.


- --jj

------------------------------

From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:20:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube/ Motor mounts/Oiling System

>I was running Pro Trac L60x15's and they are 29" tall.

Yup. That explains it.

>FYI --- the 330 was only a stock 2barrel 330 and my best was 15.77 @ 88 mph,
>unfortunatly i killed the engine before i got to tune it.

That's pretty respectable from a 2bbl stocker ! Were you running the 2spd
Jetaway automatic also ?

Before I swapped the 455 into my 66 F-85, I ran a 64 330 in it. With a
stock bottom end (except for upgraded oil pump), stock heads, headers (one
from a 455, one from a 350 to fit the chassis), Offy 360 intake, Holley 600
and KB C118 cam (the 45 degree version) I managed to click off a best of
14.9 at something like 92 MPH. This was with a THM 350 and the 3.90 rear
w/26 inch street radials.

The 455 is a bit more fun.  ;-)

Rich

- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:26:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Lock Tumblers

oh,

p.s.   if the problem is in the tumblers...
it may not need a new lock set, just let your local locksmith
(or my dad) take the guts of the lock out, and replace it back to
factory specks so it will work with your existing key.

- --jj

------------------------------

From: James Pindar <jp@webspan.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 03:13:17 -0400
Subject: For sale

Dustin E Cross wrote:
1992 Achieva SCX W41 5 speed 81K mi loaded 81K mi good condition
jp@webspan.net New Jersey

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:35:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Lock Tumblers

oh, as for the cuts being too deep, if you dont have the numbers because
you lost the "knock outs" of the keys, a good locksmith can look at the
car key and be able to reproduce one by sight.

(i.e. make a photo copie of your key, send it to my dad, and he can send
you the new key to you)

- --jj

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:40:28 -0400
Subject: Re: J.C. Worthless...the saga continues...

> the gasket set was missing the intake manifold gasket
I am not sticking up for JC Worthless but when a steel bathtub intake
gasket is used it isn't included in the Felpro set. This applies to B/B
Chryslers Olds engines some Ford the Buick V-6 and probably a few more. The
catalog should say that it isn't included. My parts supplier's parts guys
are very sharp and when I order one of these they always ask If I want the
intake gasket too. They have saved me several times because I forgot to
order it seperatly. I doubt JC's parts guys are that smart.
Walter

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:48:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Well wishes

In a message dated 97-03-07 11:52:44 EST, you write:

<< Well it was worth the effort - but in the future - I'll go
 to real sources of information and not a bunch of losers and wannabe's

 BHap  >>

I hate to jump in on this conversation late (been reading/catching up from
when I didn't feel good, and didn't do the computer stuff for a few days....
uggghh...), but I gotta say.....

This has gotta be some of the FASTEST losers, and wannabes I've been around.

Thanks all.  Great job on all the information posted.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:48:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Extra Capacity Oil Pans

In a message dated 97-03-10 11:36:43 EST, you write:

<< I had a thought about a source of extra capacity oil pans for the 260-455
 series of engines, at LOWER PRICES...

 TRY DIESEL PANS, the diesel used a larger pan than the gasoline engine.  How
 many abandoned diesels have you seen...

 Remember too, when using a larger pan, it usually has greater depth, and
 will require attention to the oil pump pickup.  It does much less good to
 have the pickup high in the pan, instead of near the bottom.

 The Wiz >>

Good idea, I take it the diesels had bigger pans also.  As for the depth into
the pan, I thought I've read somewhere that optimum is like 3/4 of an inch
from the bottom of the pan.  Not too far away, but fairly close to the bottom
w/out actually being on the bottom (sucking up all the crap that might
collect down there).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 00:54:00 -0400
Subject: Misaligned center console

      Ok here's what happened: My wife was using my car one day. It seems
that she could not get the shifter on the center console out of "park"
(probaly did not use t-handle to release it) anyway her along with two of
her friends all pulled and forced the shift handle out of park. The result
is that Reverse is indicated by the letter "N", neutral is now the "D",
drive is now "L" and so on down the line. What do I do to fix this. Car is
safe to drive but problem is annoying.

Aaron D Eoff
77 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 01:06:17 -0400
Subject: Re: 260 vs. 350

At 11:11 PM 3/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>3 more questions to add on to this....

OK, shoot...

>is there a long and a short block 350?  what's the difference if there
>is?

OK, that's one or two questions...? There are 350 short-blocks, which
includes the block/crank/rods/pistons/rings/camshaft/timing chain/oil
pump/bearings, all assembled together, and the 350 long block is the 350
short-block plus the heads and the rest of the valvetrain. Basically, a
long-block is the entire engine, minus the accessories.

>and as for bolt ons for 350s from 260s...
>do parts like the manifolds, water pump, etc. bolt on too?

Well, though the intake and exhaust manifolds from a 260 would physically
bolt onto the 350, the dimensions of the runners might be significantly
smaller, so it would be better to use aftermarket or factory 350 pieces. The
water pump, harmonic balancer, flexplate, distributor, A/C, P/S and
alternator will all bolt right on from that 260, however.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 01:14:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Cars for Sale

For Sale:  1969 Delta 88, 2 door.  455 CID, TH400.  130,000k miles.  Blue
with black vinyl top, 2 tone dark/light blue interior.  This was a Father's
Oldsmobile.  Family can't keep, must sell.  A solid, good original car.
California since new.  Original paint in fair condition, vinyl top like
new, interior in excellent shape.  Engine compartment & motor in good
visual condition.

Contact me privately at:


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: David1756@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 01:26:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Sedan Delivery??

Olds did not make a sedan delivery.  Pontiac and Chevy both did (50-54).
 Sounds like a cobbled together Cheviac.

David Wilk

------------------------------

From: "Samuel M. Watson" <smw@hal-pc.org>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 02:10:14 -0400
Subject: '67 Super Rocket

How can I verify the specifications on my car?  Things like engine size,
horsepower, gear ratio etc.

Sam Watson
Crosby, Texas
smw@hal-pc.org

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 03:27:47 -0400
Subject: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?

1981 Delta 88 with a 307 motor.  Now, I also have a 1977 Delta 88 with a
455 (and all the parts like distributor, PS pump, etc.)  So my question is
could I put the 455 in place of the stock 307 and also could I put a 77 350
Cutlass engine in.  Is yes, would I need to use 350 distributor,
alternator, PS pump or could I use my own stock parts.
Will my stock 3-speed fit the two engines or would I need a new tranny.
Thanks.

------------------------------

From: "Greg Sage" <tootall@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 04:10:16 -0400
Subject: Sway bars

This is my very first posting on this listing after reading many.  I have a
couple of questions about my 1982 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door, 267 V8,
4.4L.  Let's start out by saying that I have had it for 5 years, second
owner, and very happy with it.  220,000 km on it and still kicking with no
money put in it.  I am looking at fixing her up for horsepower and
handling.  I noticed that most other cutlass's have a bar under the rear
axle assuming it is a sway bar, and assuming it helps in handling.
Wondering why mine does not have it, is it essential, does it help? Another
question.  Along the bottom of the doors it is rusting out bad.  Holes are
forming.  Should I....#1 replace doors...#2 bondo....#3 cut it out and weld
new peices(pain in the butt)....#4 heard of "slips" you can put on(no idea
what that is).

Greg Sage
Calgary, Alberta..Canada
1982 Olds Cutlass
"Cheers to the 80's Babies!"

------------------------------

From: bemet@ix.netcom.com (Bemet)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:37:59 -0400
Subject: Re: shoulder belts

I recently ordered shoulder belts for my 71 W 30 conv. from a guy in
Ohio who makes them up new. I'd have to search my records to get his
name,but he periodically advertises in heemmings. If you haven't found
the belts, e-mail me and I'll try to dig up the info for you.

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:09:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 67 parking lights

>    On my Pinto i go a solid tenth of a second and a full mile per hour
slower > with my lights turned versus having my lights turned off.

Wow, that is a significant difference... oh wait, it's a Pinto.  Isn't that
one of those cars where you clock the 1/4 mile with a calendar?? :)



Tim (Whose Sister Once Rear-Ended a Pinto w/her VW Bug -- Luckily Neither
     Exploded) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 03:16:17 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 parking lights

J2RKT@aol.com wrote:
>
>    On my Pinto i go a solid tenth of a second and a full mile per hour
slower > with my lights turned versus having my lights turned off. > >
J2RKT@aol.com

I'll bet it gets geal slow if you have set of full wheel covers as
opposed to running the poverty caps.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 03:21:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 10.46 sec. GN.? Hmmm... (was: 200-4R)

Kevin Hoopingarner wrote:
	
	<snip>

 To get 10 sec. performance out of the car, the turbo boost was
> set to nearly 30 psi.!!!  BTW-  When the engine blew, it was a head gasket
> that finally went south.  Go figure.
>
> Kevin Hoopingarner
> 70 442 W-30
> Findlay Oh.

I have that gasket.  We were all wondering where it came from.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 03:24:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Lock Tumblers

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> Hi everybody,
>
> On the driver's side of my Calais, the lock is _REALLY_ hard to unlock.
> On cold mornings, it feels like I'm going to twist the key right off.
> The passenger side is fine...I suppose that is due to the greatly
> reduced exterior lock usage on that side (power door locks).  Anyway,
> does the stiff lock (tumbler ?) mean I need a new lock set?  I figure it
> does.  Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> --
>
> +-----------------------------------+
>
>  Jason Adcock
>  1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
>
>  adcockjk@erols.com
>  http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason
>
> +-----------------------------------+

I think that everything is just stiff from lack of lubrication.  Use
some lock graphite oil in the lock itself.  If this doesn't cure it,
then take off the door panel & lubricate the lever mechanisms at the
latch & the back of the lock.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 03:31:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Setting up HEI distributor weights/cams

R Mullen wrote:
>
> I dug out my info on the HEI weights/cam set-ups that will give you more
> mechanical advance than normal.

	<snip>
>
> Remember, you don't need the whole distributor, just the center cam and
> the advance weights.  I'm using #139 weights and #410 (I think)
> distributor cam.  This gives me around 29 deg of mechanical advance.  I
> can thus set total advance (which is the sum of initial and mechanical)
> to 39-40 deg, and still have an initial of 10, which allows for easy
> starting.  However, I don't care what the initial timing is, and I never
> check it (because it doesn't matter) other than when I've had the
> distributor out of the engine.
>
> For some reason a lot of people seem concerned about initial timing.  It
> has virtually nothing to do with performance.  The measurement you
> should focus on is total timing advance and the advance curve.  You want
> as much advance as you can get, coming in at the lowest RPM possible
> without detonation.

	<snip>
>
> Scott Mullen
> '70 442

Thanks Scott.  That is as clear a description of curving a distributor
as I have heard.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Denney J Keys <Denney.J.Keys.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:46:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender Liners

David,

I can only relate horror stories about dealing with Brother's Automotive,
and I will NEVER order anything from them again.  I now also only stick to
those I trust, Fusick's Year One, Olds. Parts USA.

You have my sympathy... :-(

Denney
66 Cutlass Conv.
72 Cutlass
73 4-4-2
95 Cutlass Supreme SL

At 11:19 PM 3/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>O.K. guys, you've all got me scared to death. I've read a dozen horror
>stories about the replacement fender liners, from poor quality to four
>month delivery. I've had a pair of black liners on order from Brother's
>Automotive for almost three months. They seem to be being honest with me
>about the delays, however they're not too good at returning phone calls.
>Has anyone bought these from Brothers? Can anyone offer me some comfort?
>			David Nye
>			'71 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>
 ________
 |  /\  | Denney J. Keys, P.E.
 |  ||  | Code 734 - Space Power Applications Branch
 |  ||  | Goddard Space Flight Center
 |  ||  | Greenbelt, MD  20771
 |  ||  | Phone #(301)286-6202/Fax #(301)286-1743
 | //\\ |
 ||/||\||
 |_/||\_|
    /\
   //\\

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:10:05 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 hurst/olds

Call Steve Kenny at Brothers Automotive 800-442-PART.  He is the OCA advisor
on 72 Hurst/Olds, and is very helpful and knowledgeable, and will take the
time to answer your questions.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:14:43 -0400
Subject: Re: W30 Thermostat

Mike,
Are you soliciting answers to your question, or did you answer it yourself?

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 04:12:48 -0400
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass Exhaust Question

Dan Williams wrote:
>
> I agree with Art.  If you walked into your Oldsmobile dealer and said I
> want a 68 Cutlass S, with the cutout bumper, you would get it.  I would
> have not bought a 68 Cutlass without one.  That bumper adds so much to
> that car.
>
> -Dan
>

>
> > I hate to disagree with the others, so I'll agree and then disagree.
Normally, > > your car came with a regular bumper. However, if you ordered the
car with a > > cutout, or asked the dealer to install one, you could certainly
get one on a new > > car. > > > > Art Fuller > > mefco@sprynet.com > >

I agree that this could be done at one time & 1968 may have been that
time.  I know that big trouble would ensue if you tried this on the 1973
cars.  I ordered a 1973 Vista Cruiser w/455, duals, etc.  I wanted the
super stock wheels on this wood grained thing as well as the painted
sport mirrors & ralley gauges.  No matter what I suggested, the answer
was NO!  The Cutlass Salon 4-doors could be ordered this way & even the
regular 4-door cars.  It was still no when Olds bounced back the order
because of the inclusion of non-available accessories.

I finally ordered the car w/out.  I just went to the parts dept &
ordered the parts separately.  I had to put them on myself after
receiving the car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

PS.  The same thing happened when I bought my Mustang & my Chrysler.
Also - somehow my 1968 442 convertible (owned since 1981) has the red
fender wells, scoops, & air cleaner of a W30, but is only a regular
4-speed 442.  It has power brakes & vacuum door locks.  Possibly this
was done the same way I did my car.

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:21:48 -0400
Subject: Re: J.C. Worthless...the saga continues...

Try an Oldsmobile expert the next time.....

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:24:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender Liners

David,
The scratched fender liners I got showed up about five days after ordering
them from the place in Illinois. My friend got some a few days before from
Tamraz. It only took him about a week to get them. Why would it take Brothers
have to backorder for three months? I eliminated Brothers from my "To do
business with list", years ago. It didn't cost much to learn from experience
then. The business in Batavia, Illinois, hit me blindside.

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:33:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender Liners

David-I bought some red inner fenders for my 70 from Brothers.  It took 2 1/2
weeks to get them.  (They told me they would)  The quality is really pretty
good compared to the alternatives.  Mine were dropshipped from their
manufacture so that may have accounted for the delay as everthing else I
ordered from them I had in four days.  If you haven't already done so be sure
to buy the nut and bolt kit to install them as I forgot to do so and had to
re-order.

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:59:30 -0400
Subject: Re: 260 vs. 350

> 3 more questions to add on to this....
>
> is there a long and a short block 350?  what's the difference if there
> is?  and as for bolt ons for 350s from 260s...
> do parts like the manifolds, water pump, etc. bolt on too?
>
> thanks again in advance
> --jj
>
> A short block motor is one that has the crank, pistons and rods
included with its assembly.  A long block assembly includes heads,
connecting rods, etc.  There is no difference in the motor's physical
size.  The long block assembly just is more complete than a short
block's just because it has more parts with it.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

------------------------------

From: FBrussee@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:03:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 hurst/olds

Got two, have had three others, all 72.  If there's anything I can help you
with let me know.  My experience is that many of the 72 build sheets are
missing as the cars got shipped back and forth to two different
subcontractors during conversion.  Best bet is title search and contact
previous owners.

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:05:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Resetting Lock Cylinder Tumblers

Thanks, Bill.

Mark heiser

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:11:37 -0400
Subject: Which rear end do I need?

I can get my hands on a posi rear end from a 68 Chevelle with 3:31 gears for
$100 complete.  The question is, will it fit in my 71 Cutlass, and is it
worth it?  He says you can change the gearing to anything in the 3's, and
said if I wasn't going to race it, I would want to stay around 3:31/3:73.
 Please advise asap, as I may buy tonight.

Thanks all,

Mark heiser

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:10:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 10 sec. 70 cutlass

Robert F Turner wrote:

> I was worng, It was 8.99, no nitrous, either

That is still a wwwwwwwwwoooowwww!

Chris Sparks
68 442 (Some things really amaze me :-)

------------------------------

From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:17:24 -0400
Subject: RE:  Front Suspension Problem

I rebuilt the front end on my Cutlass and now when I am in reverse and
hit the brakes there is a horrible LOUD CRACK, the spindle tilts
violently to the rear and the front end raises up about two inches.  It
works great going forward.  This only occurs when backing up. The car has
a PST polygrapghite kit installed with new everything, new close ratio
box, new KYG shocks, Hotchkis springs (600 lbs/inch), new calipers and
Performance Friction pads (disc).  I thought I had torqued everything to
factory manual specifications.. but , who knows..

Any help in diagnosing this problem is very welcome... The only thing I
know to do now is to go back and retorque everything.. Sounds like a
wonderful job to do in the rain... ugh  :-)

Thanks in advance

Al Varhus


  http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html



------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:27:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?

At 02:27 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>1981 Delta 88 with a 307 motor.  Now, I also have a 1977 Delta 88 with a
>455 (and all the parts like distributor, PS pump, etc.)  So my question is
>could I put the 455 in place of the stock 307 and also could I put a 77 350
>Cutlass engine in.  Is yes, would I need to use 350 distributor,

Well, not the 455 AND the 350 at the same time (though that would be
interesting).

Either will work alone, however. If you already have a 455 in the '77 Delta,
then you can use it in the '81 as is (the '77-'85 Deltas and 98's share the
same front frame dimensions). Of course, if you do have a 455 in a 1977
Delta, that is already a transplant, as they stopped installing 455's in
passenger cars in 1976. You can use whatever distributor you want (stock
307, Cutlass 350, Delta 455); just recurve it to suite your needs. You can
even retain the stock computer controls on the 307's distributor and carb;
just transfer them over to the 455, and rejet to suite its needs.

>alternator, PS pump or could I use my own stock parts.
>Will my stock 3-speed fit the two engines or would I need a new tranny.

Well, you want to use at least a TH350; if you have a TH200 or TH250, it
*will* fit, but it wouldn't make it out the driveway behind a 455 (and it
wouldn't make it all the way down the street behind a 350...)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:27:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Sway bars

At 03:10 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>couple of questions about my 1982 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door, 267 V8,
...
>money put in it.  I am looking at fixing her up for horsepower and

Well, as you may know, that 267 V-8 is in fact a Ch*vy block motor (as many
Canadian cars were), so short of swapping over to an Olds motor, you'll get
little sympathy from this list... ;) (just kidding; there are actually some
people who not only own version of the "other" small-block V-8, but modify
them as well. Just don't let Charlie B. hear you talking about it...)

>handling.  I noticed that most other cutlass's have a bar under the rear
>axle assuming it is a sway bar, and assuming it helps in handling.
>Wondering why mine does not have it, is it essential, does it help? Another

It keeps the rear end level, and improves cornering. You can install a
factory bar, or install an aftermarket setup, with matched front and rear
bars. If you need to replace shocks and springs as well (and the car being
that old, you likely do), you can replace them with components designed to
all work together, and get some rather impressive handling out of your car.

>question.  Along the bottom of the doors it is rusting out bad.  Holes are
>forming.  Should I....#1 replace doors...#2 bondo....#3 cut it out and weld
>new peices(pain in the butt)....#4 heard of "slips" you can put on(no idea
>what that is).

#1 Replace doors would probably be the best option; the problem would be
finding a set. You likely won't find a set locally; try the southwest or
northwestern states, where they don't use salt on the roads.

I have no idea what "slips" are either.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 05:35:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender Liners

Less than a year ago I bought my '69 W-31 and shortly after purchased some
parts from Brothers Automotive.  I bought the ram air hoses, shift cable for
an automatic with console (mine was broke) and all three new brake hoses.  I
received the parts in a normal amount of time, meaning next week.  There where
 no back orders, delays or anything like that.  I've had no problems with the
 one order I've placed.  I may eventually order a W-31 carb from them, but I
don't exactually have ~$350 burning a hole in my pocket so I'll just wait.
Just thought I'd add my two crons (czech currency)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:35:19 -0400
Subject: RE:  Front Suspension Problem

At 10:17 AM 3/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I rebuilt the front end on my Cutlass and now when I am in reverse and
>hit the brakes there is a horrible LOUD CRACK, the spindle tilts
>violently to the rear and the front end raises up about two inches.  It
>works great going forward.  This only occurs when backing up. The car has
>a PST polygrapghite kit installed with new everything, new close ratio
>box, new KYG shocks, Hotchkis springs (600 lbs/inch), new calipers and
>Performance Friction pads (disc).  I thought I had torqued everything to
>factory manual specifications.. but , who knows..

Hmmm, did you torque everything with the car sitting level, or was it jacked
up? If you tightened the bushings when the control arms were extended, then
the bushings are "relaxed" in that state, and "wound-up" when you let the
car back down again. Sounds like that crack is the bushing trying to get the
front suspension back to what *it* thinks is normal ride-height (fully
extended). If that is the case, loosen up the bushing bolts, let the car sit
at normal ride height, and torque them down in that position (a little
awkward; you could also put the jackstands under the control arms, so that
the car's full weight is resting on the suspension and keeping it in place).

Now, as for the spindle tilting, that would be scary, since the only way it
should be able to move is up and down with the control arms. If it is
tightly attached to the control arms, then the control arms themselves must
be moving as well. DOUBLE-CHECK to make sure that the control-arms are not
moving at all; perhaps take the tire off and jack the front control-arms
through as much travel as you can, to see how things are relating to
one-another.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:44:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Misaligned center console

Aaron D Eoff wrote:
>
>       Ok here's what happened: My wife was using my car one day. It seems
> that she could not get the shifter on the center console out of "park"
> (probaly did not use t-handle to release it) anyway her along with two of
> her friends all pulled and forced the shift handle out of park. The result
> is that Reverse is indicated by the letter "N", neutral is now the "D",
> drive is now "L" and so on down the line. What do I do to fix this. Car is
> safe to drive but problem is annoying.

Get a new wife with new friends! :-))))  Just kidding.  I couln't
resist.
Just a little levity.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:50:41 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Another FAQ

Thanks, and a big thank you to Clayton Pierce for the excellent
proofreading job. It was a lot of work, and he is a full time student, and
working on top of that.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

Robert Barry wrote:
> Thanks a lot, Dave; excellent job!

I agree, kudos to everybody involved!
It really is a must-have for any Olds enthusiast.

- --
+-----------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

 adcockjk@erols.com
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

+-----------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Dawn Roode <dawnr@curtco.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:06:01 -0400
Subject: Re: New York

Junior627@aol.com wrote:
>
> Is anybody in here from the new york area (sometimes i think i am the only
one - ------------------------------------

I was thinking the same thing -- I'm from New York, currently living in
Brooklyn, but have been all over.  We get most of our restoration work
or parts (for a 68 Cutlass 442 convertible) from places just outside NY,
however -- New Jersey and Connecticut -- but some in NY.  What area are
you in??  Maybe I can make a suggestion or two...

Dawn
dawnr@curtco.com

------------------------------

From: Eric <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:31:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 or 350 in place of 307. Could I do it?

I know of one problem of putting most 455's into later cars, check your
hood clearances ('80 cutlasses equippped with (yuck) chev's had this
problem)  Of course , a 1980 cutlass is NOT an olsdmobile, so I don't
know if that holds for real oldsmobiles (BTW, I don't consider a wimpy
little car with a chev engine and an oldsmobile sticker an oldsmobile,
any thoughts on that!)




EA




.

On Fri, 14 Mar 1997, IT wrote:

> 1981 Delta 88 with a 307 motor.  Now, I also have a 1977 Delta 88 with a
> 455 (and all the parts like distributor, PS pump, etc.)  So my question is
> could I put the 455 in place of the stock 307 and also could I put a 77 350
> Cutlass engine in.  Is yes, would I need to use 350 distributor,
> alternator, PS pump or could I use my own stock parts.
> Will my stock 3-speed fit the two engines or would I need a new tranny.
> Thanks.
>

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:26:06 -0400
Subject: Fuel Filter Replacement...

Last weekend I tried to replace the fuel filter on my '86 442 / VIN 9
307...unfortunately the fuel line nut is frozen in there pretty good.
My 5/8" box wrench (I think it was 5/8's...) didn't seem to fit the nut
to well...is this a metric nut??  Or do I need a special wrench that
grips more than two surfaces??
Thanks!

- ---Matt
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com
'86 442

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:06:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Manuals

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-02-21 20:33:37 EST, you write:
>
> > thought you all would like to know that Lansing Lithographers doesn't
> >  carry the GM Manuals anymore.  The new company is Helm Printing.  Nu,ber
> >  is 800-551-4123.  Just called and ordered up a set of manuals for my
> >  442!
> >
> >  ---Matt
> >
>
> Thanks, Matt.  I was looking for a number to contact LL to get an owner's
> manual for my Dad's 92 Eighty Eight Royale.  Now I know where to call.  You
> can take great satisfaction in the fact that you helped out a fellow
> Oldsmobiler today!
>
> Paul
Paul,
  Cool, gladd to help...I just got my set the other
day...ohboyohboyohboy....of course my wife doesn't understand the joys
of sitting and reading it for hours on end......

enjoy..


- ---Matt

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #560
********************************
