To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #527


oldsmobile-digest        Thursday, 20 February 1997     Volume 01 : Number 527

Re: Drink holders
Re: '59 88 and '62 Starfire questions
Re: HEI Headaches... -Reply
Re: Drink holders
Re: Drink holders, etc.
Re[3]: Drink holders
Re: Need an 394 or telephone numbers to Junk Yards
Fuel Injection
RE: HEI Headaches... -Reply
late '68 thru '70 B-body rotors
WANTED: 70-72 CUTLASS RALLY GUAGES
Re: block sizes revisited - the mini series
Re: Drink holders
Re: HEI Headaches... -Reply
Re: Drink holders
Re: Pronouncing 442
Axle shafts
RE: HEI Headaches... -still
Re: late '68 thru '70 B-body rotors
RadioShack equipment...
Clarify lug pattern
RE: HEI Headaches... -still
Re: Clarify lug pattern
Re: Pronouncing 442
Re: RadioShack equipment...
Re: Pronouncing 442
Re: HEI Headaches... -still
Conv. Top Adjustment
Re: Drink holders, etc.
Re: Pronouncing 442
DALnet mIRC
Re: Pronouncing 442
Re: 72 HURST OLDS
Re: 70 442 Model Car
Re: Drink holders
Re: Pronouncing 442
Re: Pronouncing 442
Re: HEI Headaches...
RE: HEI Headaches... -still -Reply
Oldsmobile USA Parts Supply
Re: HEI Headaches... -still -Reply
Re: Conv. Top Adjustment
[none]
[none]
Re: Pronouncing 442
Re: 70 442 Model Car
[none]
Re: HEI Headaches... -still
Re: 350 engines, tell me...
Re: Latest Car & Driver
Re: Conv. Top Adjustment
Re: HEI Headaches... -still -Reply
Re: Re[2]: Drink holders
Re: Oldsmobile USA Parts Supply
Re: Clarify lug pattern
Re:
Re: 350 engines, tell me...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 15:40:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders

> From edison3@cpeq.com Thu Feb 20 14:26:31 1997
> > > ... to me, drinking
> > > (regardless of what it is) and driving just don't go together.
> >
> > Hear, hear... 'nuf said.
>
> Then why are there drive-through beer distributers?

Maybe down in the Sunshine State there are, not up hear in the Puritanical
Northeast... and doesn't at least one state in the S.E. allow open containers?
As long as the driver isn't inebriated?

Geez, and I was worried, last October on Cocoa Beach, that I was going to be
pulled over when I forgot to turn on my headlights while my wipers were
going... Shoulda had a Sam Adams goin' instead :)


Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 15:52:42 -0400
Subject: Re: '59 88 and '62 Starfire questions

> I've been offered a '62 Starfire for $300 or the owner is willing to trade
> for my '72 Merc. with the 429.  I don't know if it runs or not, and I
> don't know much about the condition of the car.  Personally, I think that
> the 429 is worth more than that, but I would like some opinions.  The 429
> has 110k miles on it, never been rebuilt, doesn't smoke, the body of the
> car its in is all to h*ll.

	If the Starfire is in decent shape (complete and restorable) it's
got to be worth at least $300.  If it looks like a rust bucket, or it's
half parted or something, it would only really be worth it if you feel
like putting the time and money into it to bring it back.  If it's solid,
complete, and restorable, go for it!

> Also, I've been offered a '59 Dynamic 88 2 door sedan which is complete
> but needs restoration for either $500, or I might be able to work out the
> same deal for the Merc.  Opinions on this?  I again, don't know if it runs
> or not, and don't know what the overall condition is.

	Hmm.  A little tougher call here.  The car costs more initially
and might be in better shape, but would be worth less in the long run.
Although I really like the '59s, they are a nightmare to find some parts
for.  For some reason, a lot of '59 and '60 parts (except the drivetrain)
are rare, and not being reproduced by anyone, unlike the more popular
mid-50s cars, and the later 62 and up cars.  I've noticed that a lot of
things I'm looking for just are'nt available for thoes two years.  Still,
if all it needs is some paint and upholestery or carpet or something, it
might be a nice project for a driver.

>
> If I decide to take a look at these, what specific things should I be sure
> to look for.  I am expecting some rust, but where should I watch out the
> most for rust on either vehicle.

	On the '59, look for rust in the middle of the lower front fender,
sort of between the wheel well, and the other edge.  I think for some
reason these things have drainage problems here and can get pretty spongy.
Also check the floors for firmness.  It probibly has one inch holes in the
floor that are supposed to be filled with rubber plugs, but sometimes
these dissapper (just like on my car) and water that splashes up will soak
into the carpet and eat the floor alive.  Otherwise just look in the usual
places--bottem edges of the fenders, around the front and rear windows,
etc. etc.

 What are some good points of these, and
> what are some bad points.  What engines should these have?

	The '59 should have a 371 (270 horse), since the 394 was only
available in the Super 88 and 98.  The Starfire should have the 394 (330
horse I think).

	Hope this helps, and good luck with whatever you decide.

	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 15:02:35 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches... -Reply

>>> Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu> 02/20/97 10:48am
>>>
At 12:34 PM 2/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hmmm, are you sure that you replaced the factory wire with a
>non-resistance 12V lead?

Well, it's non-resistance, but it's only 18-gauge wire.  It was already there,
and I didn't bother changing it out, since it worked at first.  Of course,
that too was on my agenda of things to definately change.  I didn't want to do
that though until I figured out why the current wire was getting hot...
because if there's something else wrong, it would just take a 10-gauge wire
twice as long to melt, which would more definately fry my other components.
Right?  (OK, so I'm kinda dumb when  it comes to electronics...) =)

>By all means, get yourself a multi-meter if you are going to be doing your
>own work on the car. Even if it's just a bargain-store cheapie, it's a good
>$10 investment ($12 if you include batteries).

Cheapest one I can find in town is $26.  I was going to order the $6.99
special from Harbor Freight, but I need it before this weekend.  Maybe I
can borrow one from one of my mechanic buddies.

>Absolutely yes, get a solid-state regulator as the first thing; that's a
>standard changeover on a retrofitted HEI (after, of course, replacing the
>resistor + lead with a heavy-gauge non-resistor ign switched 12V wire).
>You may have already fried the second control module. :(

Thanks Bob, for your suggestions.  You've been a great help.  I didn't want
to hear that last sentence, though... :(

- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 19:07:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> > From edison3@cpeq.com Thu Feb 20 14:26:31 1997
> >
> > Then why are there drive-through beer distributers?
>
> Maybe down in the Sunshine State there are, not up hear in the
> Puritanical Northeast...

Well, there was one just off of North 6th Street in Harrisburg right by
the Uptown Plaza.

> Geez, and I was worried, last October on Cocoa Beach, that I was going
> to be pulled over when I forgot to turn on my headlights while my
> wipers were going...

If I remember right, you don't need to turn them on with your wipers
unless the visibility is less than 1000 feet.

> Shoulda had a Sam Adams goin' instead :)

Just love those macro-breweries.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 16:02:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders, etc.

> Okay, this may sound like a silly question, but has anyone found a
> good place for a drink holder in a G-body cutlass w/ a center console?

On my '82, if I flipped open the ashtray lid, it would grip the base of
a standard Coke can nicely. Press the bottom lip of the can against the
open edge of the lid, and it will yield just enough to let the forward
edge of the can lip snap down against the front of the ashtray opening.

>From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
>Frank Boerger wrote:
>>
>> Remember the good old days when we calmly discussed the effects of
>> "water-wetter" and whether high oil pressure could wear out bearings
>
>Ah, those were the days.  Yes, they were.  Yes, they were.
>I miss woodgrain removal discussions too.  Not to mention WD-40.  ;)

There was a brief mention of how to install rear defoggers in there
somewhere, too...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 15:20:35 -0400
Subject: Re[3]: Drink holders

        Those "tabs" can scratch the windows if dirt or sand gets in there.
      Before long you can't see out the side mirror through the glass.
     Happend to me once.  Never again!





     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re[2]: Drink holders Author:  "Tom
Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com> at imail Date:    2/20/97 7:11 AM



     LOL. . .  That'd be an interesting sight, potted plants.

     Well, the car doesn't have any drink holders and I *did* buy it, and
     I've made due without them for 1 1/2 years.  What can I say, I like my
     drinks :-)  I don't smoke, and don't drink coffee, but I gotta get my
     caffeine somehow!

     I'll try looking for the door type holder.  I've seen these in the
     past but they either didn't look wide enough, or the "tab" looked too
     big to fit behind the weatherstripping without damaging it.

     Tom.

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Drink holders Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/20/97 10:49 AM

I can't remember ever using a drink holder in the cars that have had
them. Don't know what I'd do if I had one of those minivans that have a
dozen of them. Maybe I'd put some potted plants in them or something... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada





------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 16:35:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Need an 394 or telephone numbers to Junk Yards

Maybe the engine with the rusted freeze plugs is ok, if the plugs did go
bad from rusting. These are normally replaced during an engine rebuild, or
at least it is the best time to replace them.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

I have been searching a motor for our Niny for a while. There is exactly two
of 394s in Finland just now. These engines are NOT in good condition (the
other has cracks in lifter valley and the other has thrown out the freeze
plugs) but still they are prized $700 and $900. What a bargain !

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 16:48:56 -0400
Subject: Fuel Injection

Not to interrupt all the talk of cup holders (hey, doesn't a 12 oz. coke
fit on the dash of your 66 olds?), but I just wanted to ask this question
again:

Has anyone retrofitted a Holley TBI or other fuel injection system on their
Olds BB or SB? If so, are you happy with the result and can you provide
detail on the conversion?

I'm kicking around this idea to get more power, economy, eco-friendliness
and fun out of my 98. Also I think the state of Ca. would be much happier
with that rather than my big holley, smogwise.  _If_ I do it, I thought I'd
start with the Holley TBI system, closed loop to learn about how these
systems work, then maybe someday go to modern multiport stuff. I like
the idea of digital, precise control afforded by these devices.

Also a related Ca. smog question, has anyone ever worked with a smog referee?
How tough is this process?

Look forward to your stories
cf

------------------------------

From: "Etzel Bobby" <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 16:22:05 -0400
Subject: RE: HEI Headaches... -Reply

I am still not clear what you are doing here. Your alt. should be the type
with the regulator build in. All you are doing is installing a HEI, right.

To check to see if it is the alt. causeing the wire to heat up, unhook the
wires to the alt. Tape any open contacts. The engine should start and run if
the battery is good. If the engine does not run or the wire still gets hot
than something else is wrong. Please explane how you hooked up the wires to
the HEI and how the coil is hooked up. There is 2 wires to one side of the
coil and one wire from the coil to the dist. in a non HEI setup. did you
change any of this.

Buy you a 12V test lamp that has a prob and clip from Western Auto or whoever.
They cost around $2. They are the next best thing if you dont have a
muti-meter. With the key in the ON position check to see if you have 12V to
the side of the coil with the 2 wires. If you do, start the car and see if the
12V is still there. If the engine  dies and you still have 12V then the
trouble is in the coil or dist. or ignition switch. Do these checks and let me
know what happens.

With a little more information we will fix this.

Bobby

70 442 (Escape Back to the....Past)
______________________________________________________________________________
_ From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Thu, Feb 20, 1997 3:32 PM Subject: Re:
HEI Headaches... -Reply To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

>>> Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu> 02/20/97 10:48am
>>>
At 12:34 PM 2/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hmmm, are you sure that you replaced the factory wire with a
>non-resistance 12V lead?

Well, it's non-resistance, but it's only 18-gauge wire.  It was already there,
and I didn't bother changing it out, since it worked at first.  Of course,
that
too was on my agenda of things to definately change.  I didn't want to do
that though until I figured out why the current wire was getting hot...
because if there's something else wrong, it would just take a 10-gauge wire
twice as long to melt, which would more definately fry my other
components.  Right?  (OK, so I'm kinda dumb when  it comes to
electronics...) =)

>By all means, get yourself a multi-meter if you are going to be doing your
>own work on the car. Even if it's just a bargain-store cheapie, it's a good
>$10 investment ($12 if you include batteries).

Cheapest one I can find in town is $26.  I was going to order the $6.99
special from Harbor Freight, but I need it before this weekend.  Maybe I
can borrow one from one of my mechanic buddies.

>Absolutely yes, get a solid-state regulator as the first thing; that's a
>standard changeover on a retrofitted HEI (after, of course, replacing the
>resistor + lead with a heavy-gauge non-resistor ign switched 12V wire).
>You may have already fried the second control module. :(

Thanks Bob, for your suggestions.  You've been a great help.  I didn't want
to hear that last sentence, though... :(

- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme




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Date:	Thu, 20 Feb 1997 15:02:35 -0400
From:	Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:  Re: HEI Headaches... -Reply
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------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 17:35:22 -0400
Subject: late '68 thru '70 B-body rotors

Can any one tell me if late '68 thru '70 Old's B-body front rotors had a 5"
by 5 lug bolt pattern ?

Thanks, John
+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 17:37:45 -0400
Subject: WANTED: 70-72 CUTLASS RALLY GUAGES

LOOKING FOR A SET OF 1970-72 OLDS CUTLASS RALLY GUAGES.  IF ANYONE CAN HELP,
PLEASE REPLY TO MPHEISER@AOL.COM.  THANKS SO MUCH!!!


Mark Heiser
71 Cutlass S Post Coupe

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 17:35:10 -0400
Subject: Re: block sizes revisited - the mini series

jones wrote:
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong guys but I think the 394 takes a different intake
> than the 330-403 small block or the 425-455 big block.


Very true, the 394 intake is kind of like a pontiac.  There is a valley
pan under it and the intake sitting on top like a spider.

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 19:09:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders

>Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>>
>> Greg sez:
>>
>> > ... to me, drinking
>> > (regardless of what it is) and driving just don't go together.
>>
>> Hear, hear... 'nuf said.
>
>Then why are there drive-through beer distributers?
>
>    66 Toro
>The /\   /\ and Mike
>
>--
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

So they can give out key-chain bottle openers of course!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 19:09:40 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches... -Reply

[SNIP]
>>By all means, get yourself a multi-meter if you are going to be doing your
>>own work on the car. Even if it's just a bargain-store cheapie, it's a good
>>$10 investment ($12 if you include batteries).
>
>Cheapest one I can find in town is $26.  I was going to order the $6.99
>special from Harbor Freight, but I need it before this weekend.  Maybe I
>can borrow one from one of my mechanic buddies.
>
[SNIP]

Go to Radio Shack and look at their digital DVM that fits in your shirt
pocket. I bought one a few years ago, and it is MORE than you need for auto
electronics. They also sell the DIY kind for a couple bucks. Haven't been
to one of these places in years, but can't imagine that anything has
changed...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 18:01:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders

>      Okay, this may sound like a silly question, but has anyone found a
>      good place for a drink holder in a G-body cutlass w/ a center console?
>       I think figuring out how to hold a drink in one of these is one of
>      the great mysteries of life.  If anyone has had any success, please
>      let me know where you put it, and what type you used.

I use a Range Ryder from Wal-Mart.  It has a piece that slides between the
seatback and the seat on the passenger side.  It adjusts to fit all kinds
of cups, and I've never had it tip over.  If you're giving someone a ride,
though, you can't use it; you just tell the passenger to hold the drinks.
:)

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 18:35:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

For clarification on my position: My car is mine.  I made her everything
she is today with no technical or financial help from Oldsmobile.  In
her previous Oldsmobile life she was a $400 condition 7 car and brought
home in two ford trucks.  Now restored and reassembled she is JOHN made
now.  She was built by, paid by, and driven by JOHN (and side kick
Marcus).  She goes by "Carol Louise" and it upsets her when people refer
to her using a waist size such as 442 or 4-4-2.  Her half-sister "Carol
Ann" (a '71) is angry too.

By the way, how much does it cost to have Oldsmobile perform a
restoration?  I should of saved my money so people will call her what
Oldsmobile specified.

Don't bother repling...

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 17:11:00 -0400
Subject: Axle shafts

I've been thinking about this whole axle shaft thing.  If the spline
sizes are identical (e.g. 3.42 and 3.23 shafts are identical) then what
makes the 3.42 shafts heavy duty?  The bearings perhaps?  I don't think
an increase in shaft diameter was made since they are still
interchangeable.  I'll have to measure the diameter of my axle shafts.
I will also check that picture in the "American Supercars" book.
Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 18:49:33 -0400
Subject: RE: HEI Headaches... -still

>>> Etzel Bobby <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com> 02/20/97
01:22pm >>>
>I am still not clear what you are doing here. Your alt. should be the type
>with the regulator build in. All you are doing is installing a HEI, right.

Bobby...  I installed the HEI several months ago.  It ran fine for a month or
two, and now all of a sudden I'm getting all these electrical problems.  Now,
what I did was take the wires that went to the + side of the old coil and
used them as my + lead to the HEI coil.  With the key on and the wire
disconnected from the HEI, the wire does not get hot, and it lights my 12v
test light.  But with the key on and the wire connected, the wire gets so hot
that it starts to melt... the same thing it would do if I held it to the
engine block.  It's like when it's connected to the HEI coil, it's being
grounded out or something...  That doesn't seem right to me.  Bob said to make
sure I had a 10 gauge non-resistance wire connected to it, which I plan to do
this weekend.  But I don't think that would solve the problem.  If I touched
one end of an 18 gauge wire to the "+" terminal of a battery and the other
end to the "-" terminal, and did the same with a 10 gauge wire, the 18G wire
would melt pretty quick.  The 10G wire would take a little longer maybe, but
it would still melt.  Does this make any sense?

>To check to see if it is the alt. causeing the wire to heat up, unhook the
>wires to the alt. Tape any open contacts. The engine should start and run
>if the battery is good. If the engine does not run or the wire still gets hot
>than something else is wrong. Please explane how you hooked up the
>wires to the HEI and how the coil is hooked up. There is 2 wires to one
>side of the coil and one wire from the coil to the dist. in a non HEI setup.
>did you change any of this.

Man, I'm confused.  My engine compartment wiring is kind of a mess.  The
previous owner took that black tubing off and wrapped everything up in
electrical tape (scary, huh?).  Is the power wire coming from my alternator?
Why do I need to check the alt. wiring?  I don't think the alt. is causing the
wire to heat up, because the wire gets hot as soon as I turn the key on.  I
don't have to crank the engine to get the wire hot.  But like I said before,
I'm kind of ignorant to workings of the electrical system.

I'm open to any suggestions, and I'll even do that alternator check if you
really think I need to.

Thanks,
- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 18:56:58 -0400
Subject: Re: late '68 thru '70 B-body rotors

If that's the same bolt pattern as the drum brake cars, then I'm pretty
sure they swap. But you'll have to have 15" wheels to clear the rotors.
And then sometimes they need a little filing.
cf


>Can any one tell me if late '68 thru '70 Old's B-body front rotors had a 5"
>by 5 lug bolt pattern ?
>
>Thanks, John
>+================================+
>| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
>| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
>| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
>+================================+

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 19:01:08 -0400
Subject: RadioShack equipment...

It's been my experience that RadioShack makes RadioSh*t.  I went in to
our local RS la few months ago looking for a cheapo multimeter  To my
disgust they didn't have anything on the shelf that was less than 30 bucks
(or maybe it was $20), and it looked like it would self destruct the first
time you tried to test a hearing aid battery.  IMHO, radioshack electronics
are way overpriced for what you get.  Their Realistic/Optimus speakers are a
prime example... but I won't get into that.  Sorry if I hurt your feelings,
Dan ;-)  Thanks for trying to help...  I really appreciate it.

- -Blaine

>>> Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com> 02/20/97 04:09pm >>>
Go to Radio Shack and look at their digital DVM that fits in your shirt
pocket. I bought one a few years ago, and it is MORE than you need for
auto electronics. They also sell the DIY kind for a couple bucks. Haven't
been to one of these places in years, but can't imagine that anything has
changed...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )
  *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 19:29:00 -0400
Subject: Clarify lug pattern

Was the late '68 thru '70 B-body rotors a 5 by 5 lug pattern? Or was it a 4
3/4 by 5 lug pattern? As trivial as it sounds its important.

Thanks,

John
+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 19:58:20 -0400
Subject: RE: HEI Headaches... -still

Blaine,
Sorry to hear about your problems with HEI.  I really, really like mine.

If it were my car the first thing I would do is hit a few junkyards and try
to find a few (more than 1) harnesses. If you have only one, it's much harder
to figure out what to put where:  you've already pulled the old and haven't
yet put in the new. If you have two or more, you can mix and match the
best pieces off the car to make one solid harness.  Make the internal alt.
mods along the way.

Something to consider: If your previous owner hacked the engine wiring, you
don't want to know what he did under the dash.  Like tapping into the ign.
wire to power a stereo....

Dash stuff like ignition key switches and heater blower switches have lots of
amps running thru them, if they're marginal or bad, you can chase all over the
 alternator and ignition wiring and not find the problem.

Which brings me to my point: your harness may be so far gone you may need to
yank it or you'll be forever chasing electrical gremlins.  Before you get
to a state ot HEI happiness, you'll need to work with know good (or at
least known less suspect) components.

I posted a fairly lengthy note on this a few months back when I did my
wiring for the second time, maybe someone saved it.  If not, shoot me
some questions.  Hope this helps.
cf

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 20:00:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Clarify lug pattern

I'm pretty sure it was "5 by 5" as they say in the trades and yes, this is
very important. One thing you could do is check with a tire shop. They
should have books on this topic or experience or both.

Hope this helps sorry I can't be more definitive, but I never heard of that
other bolt pattern.
cf

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:01:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

John Schumacher wrote:
>
> Don't bother repling...

OK.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:15:31 -0400
Subject: Re: RadioShack equipment...

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> It's been my experience that RadioShack makes RadioSh*t.

In most cases they buy or contract the manufacturing of the sh*t.  R/S
doesn't really make much of anything except catalogs.

> I went in to our local RS la few months ago looking for a cheapo
> multimeter  To my disgust they didn't have anything on the shelf that
> was less than 30  bucks (or maybe it was $20),

The #22-221 was listed at $14.99.  I think I paid $10 for mine (on sale).

> and it looked like it would self destruct the first time you tried to
> test a hearing aid battery.

Probably better than you think.  If your looking for mil spec stuff, you
can always go to a REAL electronics store and buy a bottom line Fluke 10
for $69.95.

> IMHO, radioshack electronics are way overpriced for what you get.

Generally that's true.  There kinda like Sears -- never buy it if it
isn't on sale.

> Their Realistic/Optimus speakers are a prime example... but I won't get
> into that.

ALL of them?  Hard to belive that the dozen or so manufacturers that
build their spearker are all making crap.  The Pro LX5 (which was selling
for $100 the last time I was in a R/S) as gotten very good reviews from
Video, Sound & Image, Audio, and Home Theater mags.  Yeah, they do sell
some real garbage but they also sell so some decent stuff.

> Sorry if I hurt your feelings, Dan

Don't know about that but there probably pretty pissed off in Ft Worth
about now.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 20:29:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

John, Secretary NTOC,
I couldn't help but reply. What does all that mean?

Art Fuller, Chapter Rep, NTOC

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:39:15 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches... -still

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> Is the power wire coming from my alternator?

Shouldn't be, no.  It should be coming from the ignition switch or you'd
never be able to shut the motor off.

> because the wire gets hot as soon as I turn the key on.

Ah!  A clue.  If you hooked 12V from the battery with the rest of the car
OFF and it still gets hot, the problem is internal to the HEI.  In
other words, if you janked the HEI and hooked it and the battery up on
the kitchen table and it STILL gets hot, the wiring harness is NOT the
problem.

Even if you have changed the module, I think there are still a few other
components in there that may be causing the problem, either directly or
indirectly by screwing over the module.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 20:43:30 -0400
Subject: Conv. Top Adjustment

Do any of you out there have good ideas about how to adjust a convertible
top?

I've messed with mine for years and have it pretty low in the noise and
leak range, but am trying to improve it still more. Diminishing returns,
perhaps, but no harm in asking

To wit:
1) how do you adjust the bolts behind the rear seats, what top movements
do these control or limit?

2) outside of shimming the roof rail rubber any great ideas for noise
reduction?

3) should the nuts and bolts on the top frame be tight or not? When tight,
I'm always afraid I'm overstressing the hydraulic system in overcoming
the resistance, when loose, I'm hearing lots more rattles, squeaks, etc.

4) How hard is it to adjust the door hinges? I think my doors have settled
over the years and wouldn't mind getting them back up to snuff. Can this
be measured? If out of spec what hinges swap and how hard is it to align
them? I've heard this is tricky...

thanks for any insight you can give, admittedly convertible tops are a
specialist concern, but I figure a lot of you other softtop guys have
the same problems of wind noise and alignment.

cf

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:44:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders, etc.

Andrew "Bubble Tint" Green wrote:
>
> There was a brief mention of how to install rear defoggers in there
> somewhere, too...

Yes.  Who could forget.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 20:50:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

In a message dated 97-02-20 17:33:57 EST, you write:

>OK, just to add fuel to the fire is:
>
>442 correct when typeing or you could say " four hundred fourty two"
>
>                        or
>
>4-4-2  Do I say "four dash four dash two"  ????? Help me out here.
>
>Bobby
>70 442 (I will use this "442" since that is how it is on my car)
>
>

Bobby, I think the factory marketing types who left out the hyphens are to
blame for a lot of this confusion.  When I write 4-4-2, I always use the
hyphens, it helps clarify it.
I probably should have used it in my screen name as well, but I figured among
this group, there would be no need for it.   Ed   Escape442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Tracy McKee" <mckeet@discover-net.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 23:14:50 -0400
Subject: DALnet mIRC

- ----------
 Tracey Cleeton wrote:
, can you explain to me what the DALnet is, and how I can get on it?  I
> have a '70 W-30 Convert. and would be interested chatting with fellow
Olds.
> owners.  Thanks in advance.

	Try going to THE MIRC CRIB on the www. Just type that into your search
engine. When you get there just download the version you would like to use,
from there you will be able to print out a FAQ and any other information
that you could possibly want.

Looking forward to seeing all of you there.

Tracy McKee
75 Cutlass Supreme
mckeet@discover-net.net

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 20:57:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

In a message dated 97-02-20 17:38:25 EST, you write:

>Are you guys saying that people mis-pronounce 442?  I don't get how
>anyone could get confused about it.  If they pronounce it wrong, they
>get corrected.  End of story.  There is no argument.  Is that what you
>are saying?
>
>						Gerald Hughes
>
>

Gerald, This whole subject started when I commented how some ignorant people
say
"Four Forty Two" instead of Four- Four-Two.   Ed    Escape442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:00:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 HURST OLDS

In a message dated 97-02-20 17:39:34 EST, you write:

>HOW DO I TRACE DOWN ORIGINAL OWNER
>
>

Go to City Hall and ask for the property tax records, they should be able to
track down the original mortgage holder.  STOP CAPITALIZING

------------------------------

From: Dana <dmtaylor@tiac.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:02:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 70 442 Model Car

Etzel Bobby wrote:
>
> I sent a E-mail to Testors to find out when the status of the 70 442 kit is.
> My question and there responce follows:
>
> I am interested in your 1970 442 kit #7401. Is it available yet. What is the
> cost and how can I order one?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> The cost is $20.
I just spoke with my hobby shop guy and they aer available he is
ordering me one. His price is 17.95. This is a shop in Keene Cow
hampshire.

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:03:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Drink holders

In a message dated 97-02-20 17:39:34 EST, you write:

>>> > ... to me, drinking
>>> > (regardless of what it is) and driving just don't go together.
>>>
>>> Hear, hear... 'nuf said.
>>
>>Then why are there drive-through beer distributers?
>>
>>    66 Toro
>>The /\   /\ and Mike

Reminds me of the fond memories of a time when we would not get in the car
for a cruise unless we had an 8 pack of ponies.  GEEZ , times have changed!

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:09:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

In a message dated 97-02-20 17:39:37 EST, you write:

>Remember the good old days when we calmly discussed the effects of
>"water-wetter" and whether high oil pressure could wear out bearings ???
>
>Digest Frank Boerger//Tallahassee/FL
>
>
>

Frank,  I would like to angrily debate "wetter water" with you,  however, I
first need to know what the hell that is. ~( : 3 )  What is it's formula?  H2
(OOOO)?

------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:14:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

>In a message dated 97-02-20 17:38:25 EST, you write:
>
>>Are you guys saying that people mis-pronounce 442?  I don't get how
>>anyone could get confused about it.  If they pronounce it wrong, they
>>get corrected.  End of story.  There is no argument.  Is that what you
>>are saying?
>>
>>						Gerald Hughes
>>
>>
>
>Gerald, This whole subject started when I commented how some ignorant people
>say
>"Four Forty Two" instead of Four- Four-Two.   Ed    Escape442@aol.com
>
>If I have to read one more message on this non-subject, I'm going to
scream.  Who cares?  At least they're all discussing Olds stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: Terrance Bradley <DocOlds@Magmacom.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 1997 01:39:28 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches...

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> I'm still in the process of troubleshooting my HEI system, and I'm starting
to > get frustrated.  When this topic came up several months ago, someone >
(Bob?) mentioned that the original voltage regulator should be replaced for >
a newer electronic one.  How do I tell the stinkin' difference between the >
original style and the replacement one?  The one that came off my car sure >
looks original.  It's got a capacitor and two strange little spring-like
things on > the bottom.  It's also crunched pretty badly on one side.  I took
it to the > parts store and had it tested, but they said it was fine... which
I find hard to > believe.  I'd apreciate any light that could be shed on these
things... > Thanks. >
 First of all check that you have 12 volts at the coil for primary
power.
The wire to the coil on a 72 Olds with points is only about 7.5 volts as
the wire to the coil is a special resistor type. If it's the original go
to a wrecking yard and find a wire from a newer GM and change it at the
fuse box at the firewall. Also make sure that you have the right coil
for the distributor as there were two different ones used and if the
incorrect one is used it will eat coils and or modules.

 E-Mail me with the specific problem and I will try to help.

 Docolds@Magmacom.com

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:42:04 -0400
Subject: RE: HEI Headaches... -still -Reply

>>> Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com> 02/20/97 04:58pm >>>
Blaine,
Sorry to hear about your problems with HEI.  I really, really like mine.

If it were my car the first thing I would do is hit a few junkyards and try to
find a few (more than 1) harnesses. If you have only one, it's much harder
to figure out what to put where:  you've already pulled the old and haven't
yet put in the new. If you have two or more, you can mix and match the
best pieces off the car to make one solid harness.  Make the internal alt.
mods along the way.

Something to consider: If your previous owner hacked the engine wiring,
you  don't want to know what he did under the dash.  Like tapping into the
ign. wire to power a stereo....

Dash stuff like ignition key switches and heater blower switches have lots
of  amps running thru them, if they're marginal or bad, you can chase all
over the  alternator and ignition wiring and not find the problem.

Which brings me to my point: your harness may be so far gone you may
need to yank it or you'll be forever chasing electrical gremlins.  Before you
get to a state ot HEI happiness, you'll need to work with know good (or at
least known less suspect) components.

I posted a fairly lengthy note on this a few months back when I did my
wiring for the second time, maybe someone saved it.  If not, shoot me
some questions.  Hope this helps. cf

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 22:07:04 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile USA Parts Supply

Hey Folks,

I'm looking for people who've had dealings with USA P.S. to tell me what
they're really like.  So far I'm not impressed.  I had been thinking about
requesting one of their catalogs for the last couple of months.  When I saw
here that they have a web page, I checked it out.  They allow you to order a
catalog right from their site.  I received a confirmation that my catalog
request was received, but that was three weeks ago.  Are they always this
slow?  Wondering what their service is like otherwise.  I need quite a few
things to get the Ninety Eight road-ready for Lansing and this is the company
I had planned to purchase a majority of my parts from.  What do you think?

Paul

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 22:10:04 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches... -still -Reply

>>> Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com> 02/20/97 08:39pm >>>
Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>> because the wire gets hot as soon as I turn the key on.

>Ah!  A clue.  If you hooked 12V from the battery with the rest of the car
>OFF and it still gets hot, the problem is internal to the HEI.  In  other
>words, if you janked the HEI and hooked it and the battery up on  the
>kitchen table and it STILL gets hot, the wiring harness is NOT the
>problem.

Oh thank goodness!  Someone finally understands what I was trying to say!
=)

>Even if you have changed the module, I think there are still a few other
>components in there that may be causing the problem, either directly or
>indirectly by screwing over the module.

The control module, pick-up module, cap, and rotor are all brand-spankin
new.  The only thing that's not new is the coil...  Therefore, via "process of
elimination", I conclude that the coil must be the problem.  Mike?

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 22:13:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Conv. Top Adjustment

On Thu, 20 Feb 1997, Chris Fair wrote:
> Do any of you out there have good ideas about how to adjust a convertible
> top?

No, but that never stopped us before... :)

> 1) how do you adjust the bolts behind the rear seats, what top movements
> do these control or limit?

I think there are actually 2 different sets of bolts there. One would
adjust the fore-to-aft position of the top frame, the other the clearance
between the top of the window glass and the frame. These last ones are the
ones I'm interested in (my discussion applies to my '64 A-body; I assume
the design of the big cars is similar). On mine, there's a pair of bolts
oriented vertically that tighten down over a serrated plate. According to
my manual, lowering the position of this plate would raise the clearance
on the side of the top frame. To get at them you have to take out the rear
seat and remove the inside panel trim. I have been meaning to do this for
a while now but have been a little hesitant. Afraid that it might be a 2
or 3-man job, and a little fearful that I might screw it up worse than
what it already is. But I really need to do it one of these days. It would
be nice to be able to close the door without rolling down the window 1/2
inch...

On mine there's also a fine adjustment in the frame about halfway along
the length of the glass opening on either side of the car. It's a little
allen screw thingy that gives you maybe 1/4" of leeway. But the main
adjustment described above has to be in the ballpark before this one does
you any good.

> 2) outside of shimming the roof rail rubber any great ideas for noise
> reduction?

I'm not sure how much of the noise you're hearing is coming from the
glass-to-rubber seal. I always suspected a lot of it is just in the nature
of convertibles and comes from where the top covers the top frame. On
mine they use cables inside the top fabric to hold it snug to the frame,
but I'm sure that's not a totally airtight seal. Don't know exactly how
you could ever do that given the fact that the thing has to fold.

> 3) should the nuts and bolts on the top frame be tight or not? When tight,
> I'm always afraid I'm overstressing the hydraulic system in overcoming
> the resistance, when loose, I'm hearing lots more rattles, squeaks, etc.

Many of the fasterers on mine have curved springy washers (wave washers?)
on them, so I have been able to eliminate most of the frame rattles.
there was one directly over my left ear that was driving me crazy for a
while, turned out it was so loose the washer itself was rattling. They
have a distinct bell-like sound that drives you nuts. I do need to go over
it once a year to check. Some of them seem to actually tighten up with
use, while others loosen.

Having said that, I'll offer that a 60's convertible isn't ever going to
be particularly rigid if mine is typical. Structure just wasn't a real
high priority then and so you're always going to get some shake and squeak
when driving with the top up. I've learned to live with it, and try to
drive with the top down whenever I can. :)

> 4) How hard is it to adjust the door hinges? I think my doors have settled
> over the years and wouldn't mind getting them back up to snuff. Can this
> be measured? If out of spec what hinges swap and how hard is it to align
> them? I've heard this is tricky...

Can't help you there, but I'm sure someone else can.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:19:06 -0400
Subject: [none]

Anyone know any information on premature oil-burning on 87 Olds 307s?  Any
easy cures? Pat

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:21:28 -0400
Subject: [none]

I need information on the differences between 87 307"Y"s and 307"9"s?

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:35:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Pronouncing 442

Escape442@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-02-20 17:33:57 EST, you write:
>
> >OK, just to add fuel to the fire is:
> >
> >442 correct when typeing or you could say " four hundred fourty two"
> >
> >                        or
> >
> >4-4-2  Do I say "four dash four dash two"  ????? Help me out here.
> >
> >Bobby
> >70 442 (I will use this "442" since that is how it is on my car)
> >
> >
>
> Bobby, I think the factory marketing types who left out the hyphens are to
> blame for a lot of this confusion.  When I write 4-4-2, I always use the
> hyphens, it helps clarify it.
> I probably should have used it in my screen name as well, but I figured
among > this group, there would be no need for it.   Ed   Escape442@aol.com

I may regret this but here goes my take on this mess.

	Oldsmobile had a slight fixation on military/NASA nomenclature.
Examples F-85, J-2, W-30, Rocket, Starfire etc. ad nauseum. In the good
old pre PC world violent or agressive names sold. Oldsmobile using stark
military sounding numerical designations was a marketing ploy. Naming
the 4-4-2 was comprised of three seperate componets. Therefore, I have
always said Four Four Two. It sounds like an experimental plane that
Chuck Yeager would break mach I in.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:36:42 -0400
Subject: Re: 70 442 Model Car

> I just spoke with my hobby shop guy and they aer available he is
> ordering me one. His price is 17.95. This is a shop in Keene Cow
> hampshire.

Does it have an OAI hood?

Danny

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 21:27:58 -0400
Subject: [none]

I'd like to build a "healthier" replacement for my 87 307Y.  Can I build a 350
 using my 87 manifolds, distributor and computer and meet emissions?  Will
the parts fit?  How much do my "roller lifters" help performance/economy and
could I do the same in a 350? Pat

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 22:51:11 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches... -still

> Even if you have changed the module, I think there are still a few other
> components in there that may be causing the problem, either directly or
> indirectly by screwing over the module.

I agree with Mike, and think it might be a short in the coil.  I recently
priced a new one at $50 (U.S.) from the dealer, before discount.  Since
they rarely go bad, have a look at the wreckers.  Clean it up and look at
the clear epoxy for signs of arcing to ground.  I was just playing with a
couple spare units, and observed the following:

   ___________
   |         |   (View of an upside down HEI coil)
   |    _    |
   |   /A\   |      A - coil secondary output terminal (where the
   |   \_/   |          carbon brush spring makes contact)
   |         |      B - RED wire (BATT terminal connects here)
   |_________|      C - BLACK ground (held down by a coil mounting screw)
      | | |         D - YELLOW (or WHITE) wire (TACH terminal)
      | | |
      B C D

B-D: about 1.6 ohms
A-C: 8.1-8.2 kiloohms
B-C & C-D: > 1.2 megaohms, but not infinite
A-B & A-D: infinite

Blaine, I guess you'll have to get a multi-meter before you can check
this.  I realize Greg Pruett already posted the service manual's method for
checking the coil.  I found the part about probing A-D and A-C and
replace coil if "both readings are infinite" not very clear.  I have no
idea why my service manual words it this way, since A-D always seems to be
infinite; perhaps my digital meter is incapable of measuring this
resistance.  Has anyone measured A-D and determined if the resistance
is anything other than infinite?

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 22:57:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 350 engines, tell me...

In a message dated 97-02-20 17:32:33 EST, Robert Barry wrote:

<< a close second to the forged cranks that the  330's
 used >>

Hi again, but as long as it was brought up...
Would someone care to elaborate on the characteristics of the Oldsmobile 330
for me? Would the 1965 330ci also have forged cranks? I asked about intake
manifolds earlier, but rather than an elaboration on the subject, short (and
a little vague) replies reigned. In that vein would someone explain wet/dry
lifter valleys (a new one on me!). Finally; is my 330 cast iron or aluminium,
or an alloy?

Incidentally, I'll see if the 394 intake has a block attached to it!

Thank you in advance...

Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Dynamic 88

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 22:52:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Latest Car & Driver

In a message dated 97-02-20 02:20:04 EST, you write:

> They also describe the current 3.4 DOHC
>  V-6 (the "Twin Dual Cam") as "unsuccessful" without describing why. I
>  haven't heard anything bad about this engine so I find that curious.

As can tell why in relation to my Monte Carlo, which has the same engine
available.  In the Chevrolet case, the DOHC is only available in the Z-34
model, which is a $2000 price difference over the LS.  I don't know what the
current availability is in the Cutlass Supreme.  With the DOHC you need to
take all kinds of touring and handling suspension tweaks that make these cars
ride entirely too hard.  And as far as I'm concerned, there is little
noticable difference in acceleration (don't know about top speed).  I drove a
Z-34 and was extremely disappointed witht the responsiveness compared to the
3.1 equipped LS.  If you're after "bang for the buck", I think the 3.1
equipped cars come out ahead.  The 3.4 didn't impress me enough to want to
spend another 2 grand.

Paul

Paul

------------------------------

From: sguiller@stumail.engr.udayton.edu
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 18:13:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Conv. Top Adjustment

Chris,


      Maybe I can help with the hinges.  Open the door -- does it drop
slightly when it clears the sill? Or does it not line up when closed?  If it
drags or drops when opened, take hold of the rear end of the door near the
handle and try to raise it.  On an exteremely good car, you should be able to
rock the entire car without seeing any up and down movement in the door.
However, if the hinge pins are worn in the doors, you will encounter some
play -- half an inch to inch is bad, but less than that is probably okay for
an older car.  If you suspect the pins, many catalogs offer repair kits that
allow you to remove the hinge from the car, drill the holes larger, and
install a larger pin or a pin with bushings to take up the slack.  i'm about
to do the same thing on my '73 Cougar ragtop.  But, if you think they're
fine, you can adjust the door striker on the body (raise or lower it) by
loosening the bolts and using a trial and error process of adjusting it until
 the door lines align to your satisfaction. Hope this helps.

             Shaun R. Guillermin
 '65 Starfire
 '65 T-Bird coupe
Shaun R. Guillermin

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 1997 02:16:58 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI Headaches... -still -Reply

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> Oh thank goodness!  Someone finally understands what I was trying to
> say!> =)

I do my best.

> The control module, pick-up module, cap, and rotor are all
> brand-spankin new.  The only thing that's not new is the coil...
> Therefore, via "process of elimination", I conclude that the coil must
> be the problem.  Mike?

Agreed.  However, two things: "infant mortality" - new electronics that
fails early, and "domino effects" -- the bad coil may *still* have fried
the internals.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:15:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Drink holders

I have been using a great drink holder on my bench seat. The circular well is
slightly larger than the diameter of my beverage of choice (a can of Pepsi).
It is heavy, so it doesn't slide around, it is about an inch and a half tall,
so it has good drink retention. In addition, my drink holder can be used in th
ousands of other applications (i.e. other than drink holder).

Duct tape!

(Tacky sides of the tape roll keep it from sliding!)

Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:44:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile USA Parts Supply

> I'm looking for people who've had dealings with USA P.S. to tell me what
> they're really like.  So far I'm not impressed.  I had been thinking about
> requesting one of their catalogs for the last couple of months.  When I saw
> here that they have a web page, I checked it out.  They allow you to order a
> catalog right from their site.  I received a confirmation that my catalog
> request was received, but that was three weeks ago.  Are they always this
> slow?  Wondering what their service is like otherwise.  I need quite a few
> things to get the Ninety Eight road-ready for Lansing and this is the
company > I had planned to purchase a majority of my parts from.  What do you
think?

	I seem to remember them taking about that long to get my catalog
too, and that was after I mailed them a check for $4.  I've never ordered
from them since I've been able to find everything I've need elsewhere for
quite a bit less.  Fusick seems to have most of the same stuff for less,
so you might want to give them a call too (don't know if they have a web
site).  Hope this is of some help...
	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:42:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Clarify lug pattern

At 07:29 PM 2/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Was the late '68 thru '70 B-body rotors a 5 by 5 lug pattern? Or was it a 4
>3/4 by 5 lug pattern? As trivial as it sounds its important.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John
>+================================+
>| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
>| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
>| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
>+================================+
>

John
        I'm positive that the B body lug pattern IS 5 by 5. 4 3/4 is only on
the A body and older Jetstar models.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:44:55 -0400
Subject: Re:

At 09:19 PM 2/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Anyone know any information on premature oil-burning on 87 Olds 307s?  Any
easy
>cures?
>Pat
>

What do you mean by premature oil burning?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 23:45:43 -0400
Subject: Re: 350 engines, tell me...

At 09:57 PM 2/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Would someone care to elaborate on the characteristics of the Oldsmobile 330
>for me? Would the 1965 330ci also have forged cranks? I asked about intake

All 330's, from 1964-1967, had the forged crank. Same with the 1965-1967
400's and 425's.

>manifolds earlier, but rather than an elaboration on the subject, short (and
>a little vague) replies reigned. In that vein would someone explain wet/dry
>lifter valleys (a new one on me!). Finally; is my 330 cast iron or aluminium,
>or an alloy?

There are four basic Olds V-8 intakes, interchange-wise:

Early-Early V-8's (303, 324 and 371)
Later-Early V-8's (394's)
Late small-block V-8's (307, 330, 350, 403, and even 260, though its ports
are too small)
Late big-block V-8's (400's, 425, 455)

And your 330 is all cast-iron


>Incidentally, I'll see if the 394 intake has a block attached to it!
>
>Thank you in advance...
>
>Karl Aune
>Chicago, IL
>1965 Dynamic 88
>
>
>
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #527
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