To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #595


oldsmobile-digest          Saturday, 5 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 595

Exhaust System fo G-body
Re: Brothers & Kanter Info
posts
Re: '70 Vista Cruiser
Re: Exhaust System fo G-body
Re: Where does  it go?
Re: Exhaust System fo G-body
Re: heads for sale
Re: Brothers & Kanter Info
Re: heads for sale
Third party aid for '61 Cutlass
Help on Compression Ratios
Compression Question
Re: supplier reputations
Re: Brothers & Kanter Info
Remarkable Car For Sale (non-Olds)
Re: Brothers & Kanter Info
Re: Remarkable Car For Sale (non-Olds)
engine swap
510  Olds buildup cont"d
Re: Brothers & Kanter Info
Re: Compression Question
Re: engine swap
Re: Brothers & Kanter Info
Re: engine swap
Re: Underhood Lights
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª588 More on Tires & Rims
Re: What was that intake?
Re: engine swap  (electronics/distributors)
Re: Bench to buckets
Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d
Front discs from F-body
Re: 6500rpm Vista Cruisers (was Re: Idioms for Easter)
Re: 6500rpm Vista Cruisers (was Re: Idioms for Easter)
Re: Third party aid for '61 Cutlass
Idioms for Easter & Classic Red
Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d
Re: Idioms for Easter & Classic Red
Re: Third party aid for '61 Cutlass
help
Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d
Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d
RE: Brothers & Kanter Info
Re: Compression Question
Re: 6500rpm Vista Cruisers (was Re: Idioms for Easter)
RE: Compression Question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 23:18:16 -0400
Subject: Exhaust System fo G-body

I have been really pleased with the stock dual-exhaust system on my '87
442.  Mine is still original (I purchased car new) after 10 years and
65,000 miles.  This system has excellent sound characteristics for a small
block Olds (my friend has tried 3 different systems on his '87 Monte Carlo
SS and still can't get it to sound as good as mine.).  The system can be
purchased from the dealer for approx. $275 and includes (1) y-exhaust pipe
and (2) muffler/tailpipe assemblies.  The system is aluminized and should
last at least 6 years.  I just purchased the factory system to replace mine
when it goes bad.  The only additional parts necessary would be the factory
hanger assemblies for the tailpipes (about $20).  Now if I could just get
my LT-1 Impala SS to sound as good.

Steve Ochs - Mfg/Product Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - The statements and opinions
expressed here are NOT an official statement of General Motors
or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 23:50:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Brothers & Kanter Info

Hey there guys....  about KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS....
just a warning....

Maybe it was my bad luck, BUT...

I have a 1947 olds engine that I bought all the parts to totally rebuild
it... well, they came.  First problems my engine builders came across
was that they tried to sell me "used" berrings.  The parts looked like
it was installed on an engine, "torqued into place", removed, and then
sent to me.   Also, I received 2 valves that were totally "out of
place".   It looked like the valves came from 2 totally different
engines.  The size and length were very obviously wrong (but THEY didn't
see it).  After that was identified (which slowed the engine builders
down), we had to wait for the parts to arrive (a few weeks later), the
process continued.

The next item wrong, was the oil pump rebuild kit...  Once again, they
sent the wrong parts!  This put a hault on the engine building again!!!
The engine place was getting fed up w/ kanter (and i was too!!)
The builder measured out the pistons, and each one was a different size!
He also wanted to send these back, but i wanted my car ASAP!  He said he
can make the bores to fit the pistons, it would take him an extra day,
but compared to another 2 weeks... i opted for the boars.  (ugh!!)

Well, eventually all of the pieces were assembled, and the engine
"complete"...  the engine was primed and started... and a very loud tick
was coming out of the engine....  the valve guides were too large of a
tollerance for the engine!!!  Those of you who have a "flat head"
engine know what kind of pain in the "bahoogies" it is to remove all of
the valve guides and valves and replace all of them after the engine is
installed in the car!

Well, because of KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS, This took my car out of the car
shows from may 2nd until september 28th, and for the last part of the
work... it is STILL UNSETTLED!!!


Now, I cant blame Kanter for trying to blame the builder of the engine
for the valve tic problem... after all, they don't want to look like they
were the only ones that "screwed up" in this engine rebuild.  I do want
to say, I do trust my builder more than I trust KANTER.  My builder
works with AC Delco, Harley D.  He builds prototype / one of a kind
parts and engines for the corporations.  HE is located in the area
around Rochester NY, where the corporations can have access to him and
have the parts built in a day or two.  Hey, if these manufactures can
put their faith in him, so can I!

this is just a warning on Kanter... do what you will.

- --jj

------------------------------

From: Steve <smickle@ismi.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 00:12:36 -0400
Subject: posts

>OK, I've finnally got the guts to ask this question.

>What is the difference between a regular Cutlass and a post coupe?

>Thanks in advance for clearing this up for me.

This is a little late, I've gotten behind on the mail, not hard to do
with this list.....

What no one has mentioned about this is that a post car is lighter than
a hardtop.  Comparing titles of two 66 442's (hardtop vs post) a friend
and I found a 400 + pound difference, which can be significant.  I'm
curious how much of this weight difference is the result of actual
structural differences as opposed to lack of sound deadener, carpeting,
and other such deletions.  I think that this weight difference is why
many post cars were short on options, i.e. they were ordered for racing
purposes.  (For instance, 30 of the 54 '66 W30 cars were post cars).

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 00:18:46 -0400
Subject: Re: '70 Vista Cruiser

At 07:25 4/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 12:33 AM 4/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>   A good friend just bought a '70 Vista Cruiser that he wants to put back
>>together and is in really good shape.  It has 77,000 miles on it with an
>>excellent interior and most of the body except for right front.  It got hit
>>pretty good on the right front and needs the inner and outer fender, lower
>>and probably upper a-frames as well as steering link and maybe a couple of
>>other suspension pieces. The frame seems to be unscathed but won't know
>>until it gets gauged.  He's located much of what he needs except for the
>>hood. So we need to know if the '70 cutlass hood is the same as the Vista
>>Cruiser hood.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Glenn    gpc442@bufnet.net
>>
>Glenn
>
>        The Vista Cruiser's hood is the same as the Cutlass Supreme. It
>should be completely flat.
>

       Are you sure that it's supposed to be completely flat because I
believe the Cutlass hood rises about 1 1/2".  The rise begins about 7" from
the side and runs to the peak or center of the hood.  Where as the 4-4-2
rises at the same point from the side but drops again approx. 3" from the
hood center.  I'm pretty sure a '67 Vista hood would be flat from the sides
to the center.

 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 00:45:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System fo G-body

At 11:18 PM 4/4/97 -0400, Steve Ochs wrote:
>I have been really pleased with the stock dual-exhaust system on my '87
>442.  Mine is still original (I purchased car new) after 10 years and
>65,000 miles.  This system has excellent sound characteristics for a small
>block Olds (my friend has tried 3 different systems on his '87 Monte Carlo
>SS and still can't get it to sound as good as mine.).  The system can be
>purchased from the dealer for approx. $275 and includes (1) y-exhaust pipe
>and (2) muffler/tailpipe assemblies.

I might have to get this to put on my 442. I imagine it would fit an 80 with
little or no problems.

>Now if I could just get my LT-1 Impala SS to sound as good.

Borla all the way. I have heard a 94 and 96 with the Borla system and it was
very mean sounding.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 01:07:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Where does  it go?

At 12:32 AM 4/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>After reading the mail list for a week or so I have read that the
>Oldsmobile 455/425 rocket engine is limited to < 5000 rpm because the
>oil pan is being sucked dry. I imagine that all this oil is up in
>the valve covers since this appears to be the only place 4 quarts of oil
>could go. Does anyone know if this is the case ?

Oil management is one of the major shortcomings in Olds engine design.  At
high revs the oil can get lost up top.

> If this is the case is does anyone know if it is possible to enlarge the
>oil drain passages without hitting a water passage or pressurized oil
>passage ?

The best cure is oil restrictors, which will not allow the overabundance of
oil to go topside.  The oil routing in an Olds is thru the rear main (oil
pump location) to the top of the engine (lifters to push rods to rockers)
and from the lifter galley back to the other main bearings.  This works OK
as long as you are delivering too much oil under the rocker arm covers.

>Also, Does anyone know what the oil pump flow volume is on the BB/SB
>Oldsmobile engines at different rpm's is or where I could get
>such information?

This is probably not an available figure.  The pump is positive displacment,
so the flow is limited by the restrictions in the oil route, or re-directed
directly back to the pay by a pressure relief valve.  This methodology
allows ample oil to be directed to engine, obstensively kept at a pressure
that will be adequate to do the job.

> It would seem to me that the oldsmobile engine should be able to
>maintain sustained high speed operation better than any, as it has as
>large or larger main and rod bearings as auto engine built.

When I was working, I had an very large supply of boat anchors that at one
time were Oldsmobile engines, and without exception they stopped being
engines and were available to the yachting crowd because of rear main
bearing cap failure.  The caps would fall apart in pieces.  While they may
be the biggest they were not adquate.

>Scott Hensley
>
>

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 01:09:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System fo G-body

At 11:18 PM 4/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have been really pleased with the stock dual-exhaust system on my '87
>442.  Mine is still original (I purchased car new) after 10 years and
>65,000 miles.  This system has excellent sound characteristics for a small
>block Olds (my friend has tried 3 different systems on his '87 Monte Carlo
>SS and still can't get it to sound as good as mine.).  The system can be
>purchased from the dealer for approx. $275 and includes (1) y-exhaust pipe
>and (2) muffler/tailpipe assemblies.  The system is aluminized and should
>last at least 6 years.  I just purchased the factory system to replace mine
>when it goes bad.  The only additional parts necessary would be the factory
>hanger assemblies for the tailpipes (about $20).  Now if I could just get
>my LT-1 Impala SS to sound as good.
>
>Steve Ochs - Mfg/Product Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
>Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - The statements and opinions
>expressed here are NOT an official statement of General Motors
>or the GM Powertrain Division
>
>'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
>'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6
>
>
Steve,

You're not one of those guys that would like their LT1 to sound like 4
Harleys idling?

Personally I like the exhaust tone of my LT1.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 01:16:10 -0400
Subject: Re: heads for sale

- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: heads for sale
> Date: Friday, April 04, 1997 6:03 PM
>
> At 04:21 PM 4/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >One pair of 383821 olds heads for sale. My book says 64-67 high-perf.
Olds
> >FAQs says 65 400-425 CID, 80 cc, 3/8" stud. Make offer or trade?
> >Scott
> >kozhill@titanlink.com
> >
> >
>
> Are there really 3/8" head bolts out there too, for a BB?  This is a BB
> isn't it, 400-425?
>
> Curious
>
> The Wiz

3/8 rocker studs not head bolts
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com


333
>

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 01:20:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Brothers & Kanter Info

At 10:50 PM 4/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey there guys....  about KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS....
>just a warning....
>
>Maybe it was my bad luck, BUT...
>
>I have a 1947 olds engine that I bought all the parts to totally rebuild
...
>was that they tried to sell me "used" berrings.  The parts looked like
...
>The next item wrong, was the oil pump rebuild kit...  Once again, they
...
>The builder measured out the pistons, and each one was a different size!
...
>Well, because of KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS, This took my car out of the car
>shows from may 2nd until september 28th, and for the last part of the
>work... it is STILL UNSETTLED!!!
...
>this is just a warning on Kanter... do what you will.

Though I recommend Kanter's for their price, I mentioned a problem I had
with backorders. There is also the problem that you can get the wrong parts
sent with your order. A brake hose from the last kit I ordered was assembled
wrong; I didn't spot it until I tried to install it. A brake kit I ordered
from them years ago had parts backordered from it, so the installation was
delayed.

So, if time is not an object for you, Kanter's may be the place to use. I
agree with the above post, however; you MUST check the accuracy of the parts
in the order they send you, *before* you try to install them.

If you are in a hurry, try Oldsmobile USA Parts Supply.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 02:17:58 -0400
Subject: Re: heads for sale

Snips

>> The Wiz
>
>3/8 rocker studs not head bolts
>Scott
>kozhill@titanlink.com
>
>
>333
>>
>
>
Rocker studs like a Ch*vy?  Adjustable valve train?  Curiosity running at
high gain.

Or as Ricky Ricardo said many times, "'splain." Please...

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey King <jking@iglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 02:52:11 -0400
Subject: Third party aid for '61 Cutlass

Fellow Oldsmobilphiles,

This message was sent to me after he read my page on Bryceman's
Olds page.  He needs some info on a '61 Cutlass (F85).
Either sent it directly to him, or send it to me and I'll forward
it to him.

BTW, please notice the change of home e-mail address for myself.

Happy Oldsmobiling,

Jeff King ('61 Super 88)

- ---------------------------------------------

Date:
          Fri, 4 Apr 1997 18:38:34 -0500
   From:
          Eric Saltsman <esalts@zoomnet.net>
      To:
          "'jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com'"

I need help.
My uncle called me tonight and wants me to look up price info and
production info on an Oldsmoblie That I can't seem to find anything
about.
This is the info he gave me on the phone:
1961 0ldsmobile Cutlass
V-8 engine and another number that came along... 215(which I don't know
what it means.) PLEASE tell me anything  applicable to this car and I
will be Happy!
THANKS!
- --
=======================================================================
Jeffrey W. King (N5PNU)      Internet@work:    jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
Route 1, Box 290             Internet@home:           jking@iglobal.net
Krum, TX. 76249              Packet:     N5PNU @ N5AUX.ªDFW.TX.USA.NOAM
214-956-6031 (work)          214-597-1021 (pager)
817-482-3446 (home)          If none of the above works, shout HEY YOU!
=======================================================================
              http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
=======================================================================

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 03:55:12 -0400
Subject: Help on Compression Ratios

Ok.. in the same lines as compression ratios.  I have a 1972 442 W30, =
the car was raced from day one, and sense the late 70's has been pretty =
much a street car.  Now, I do not know if the lower end of the engine =
has been moded, I would doubt it.  The pistons seem to look like stock.  =
But I went out and bought a compression tester.  Unfortunately Like any =
compression tester, they tell you PSI.  Now I am getting aprox 90psi per =
cylinder.  Is this average?  I am trying to determine the compression =
ratio of the engine.  It should be 8.5:1 but I doubt it is.  I run in =
the 12 second range at the track.  I have J heads on this engine, with a =
3/4 cam, 1/2" lift.  Very big cam it's like .496 lift or something like =
that.  But anyway, I am getting 90psi in the cylinders is this good/bad =
how can I determine the compression ratio from this information?

Thanks..

Aaron

1972 442 W30

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 07:16:25 -0400
Subject: Compression Question

Forwarding a message that bounced to me due to the "H*lp" word in the
subject line... can't do that!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 04:02:09 -0400
From:"Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
To:"Olds Club (E-mail)" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Help on Compression Ratios
Date:Sat, 5 Apr 1997 03:55:12 -0400

Ok.. in the same lines as compression ratios.  I have a 1972 442 W30, =
the car was raced from day one, and sense the late 70's has been pretty =
much a street car.  Now, I do not know if the lower end of the engine =
has been moded, I would doubt it.  The pistons seem to look like stock.  =
But I went out and bought a compression tester.  Unfortunately Like any =
compression tester, they tell you PSI.  Now I am getting aprox 90psi per =
cylinder.  Is this average?  I am trying to determine the compression =
ratio of the engine.  It should be 8.5:1 but I doubt it is.  I run in =
the 12 second range at the track.  I have J heads on this engine, with a =
3/4 cam, 1/2" lift.  Very big cam it's like .496 lift or something like =
that.  But anyway, I am getting 90psi in the cylinders is this good/bad =
how can I determine the compression ratio from this information?

Thanks..

Aaron

1972 442 W30

------------------------------

From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 10:04:28 -0400
Subject: Re: supplier reputations

Brother's Auto (816) 662-2060 or 1-800-442 PART  ...sorry, can't help with
Kanter

------------------------------

From: JNelson751@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 10:16:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Brothers & Kanter Info

5 years ago i ordered a quarter panel for  69 442 from brothers, after
getting the run around for over amonth  i cancelled the order and got it from
tamrazs in 1 week.
back then there was supposedly only 1 aftermarket supplier.
jeff nelson
69 442 conv

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 10:22:42 -0400
Subject: Remarkable Car For Sale (non-Olds)

I'm posting this because it is so unusual for something like this to show
up, especially here in Halifax -- I had no idea anything like this car even
was in the area. Anyway, for those of you with a little spare change,
here's the text of a small classified ad in today's Halifax Herald:

1929 J Derham Dual Cowl Phaeton Duesenberg, only one in existence, fully
restored, orig. cond., $1,300,000. 902-469-0501

What it's doing here is beyond me. It sure has never been shown or
displayed, to my knowledge. Can't imagine many folks here in town would
be calling on this one!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 05:05:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Brothers & Kanter Info

JNelson751@aol.com wrote:
>
> 5 years ago i ordered a quarter panel for  69 442 from brothers, after
> getting the run around for over amonth  i cancelled the order and got it
from > tamrazs in 1 week. > back then there was supposedly only 1 aftermarket
supplier. > jeff nelson > 69 442 conv

Jeff,

That is one thing to consider.  No matter what is purchased, it usually
comes from only 1 to 3 suppliers.  Kanter, Tamraz, Brother, etc. usually
builds nothing.  They purchase outside & sometimes stock; but many times
order directly from the same supplier.  The part itself will be the same
no matter from whom you buy.

Upholstery is an example.  I understand that there are only 3 companies
who reproduce these kits.  Convertible tops are the same thing.
Outside door handles are only of the genuine GM parts or a reproduction
that has only a couple of sources.

I usually ask who is the source of a part that I need.  If it is the one
that I want, then this company is on my list.  Year One may have a part
I want & Tamraz have the same one while Brothers use one that I don't
like.  Another part may reverse this rankings.

Major items w/me after shopping for the correct part is their general
cooperation, shipping reputation, return policies, & prices.  You have
to take the word of the salesman on the phone about shipping & return,
but a good clue to these is the general cooperation received when you
turn out to be a picky buyer during the initial phone call.  If I can
get good answers to my tough questions at this stage, I will probably
accept their word for the rest.

Year One is usually very cooperative & their word is good.  The quality
of their product varies a lot & so rather direct questioning is in
order.  Their prices are rather "pricey" too.

Kanter is amazing in that you can get almost anything from them that
can't be purchased elsewhere.  The quality is very good also.  Their
workers will ship something to you & at the most unexpected times too.
Check carefully & have plenty of lead time.

Tamraz has been very good to me.  They will tell me their sources & it
allows me to know something of what I am getting.  Their shipping &
return policies are very good.  I have received things on approval
several times.  Their prices can be the best around.

JC Whitney is an interesting company.  One never knows what one will
receive from them.  They are never consistant in their sources.  The
sales people never know anything.  Prices can be OK.  Returns have never
been a problem for me & I have returned a lot (think about that for a
recommendation).

I know little about the others.  Be advised that independent dealers
often carry the exact same parts that the big guys have.  If you are
loyal to them, they will often be loyal to you both in pricing &
availability of some rare parts.

Very few of these people are bums.  They all have their strengths.  I
just shop around & stick w/those who will be tolerant of my needs at a
cost that is fair (not necessarily the cheapest).

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

When you dance with your customer, let him lead - anon.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 05:12:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Remarkable Car For Sale (non-Olds)

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I'm posting this because it is so unusual for something like this to show
> up, especially here in Halifax -- I had no idea anything like this car even
> was in the area. Anyway, for those of you with a little spare change,
> here's the text of a small classified ad in today's Halifax Herald:
>
> 1929 J Derham Dual Cowl Phaeton Duesenberg, only one in existence, fully
> restored, orig. cond., $1,300,000. 902-469-0501
>
> What it's doing here is beyond me. It sure has never been shown or
> displayed, to my knowledge. Can't imagine many folks here in town would
> be calling on this one!
>
> Greg Beaulieu

Greg,

That is certainly a remarkable car.  They are very seldom sold this
way.  Mostly these are privately sold to a few who are in the market.
The price of $1,300,000 is probably the reason that it is advertised.
Only the very best of these are sold at $1,000.000 US.  I feel that the
seller must be fishing to be talking so much money & publicly
advertising.

He'll have it a while.  Why not go to see it?  That may be what he wants
as any quick sale isn't on his mind.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

Pride is what makes us do things well.  But it is love that makes us do
them to perfection - anon.

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 10:02:06 -0400
Subject: engine swap

I have an '89 GMC C1500 with a 4.3 chevy and it's showing that it's a
chevy motor- blow by, piston knock you know typical chevy problems. I
want to put in a s.b. Olds motor in it. I was looking in a repair manual
for a late model caprice it showed 307 Olds as being an engine available
in these cars till '90. The distributor and coil look the same as the
set up in the truck. Does anybody know if this distributor from one of
these cars would be compatible with the trucks electronics?


Daren

------------------------------

From: docolds@megavision.com (David Vollbracht)
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:27:08 -0400
Subject: 510  Olds buildup cont"d

Just a quick note to those of you that expressed an inteest in the Olds 510
project I am currently working on.  This motor is essentially the same as
the 493 Olds that you may have read about that Joe Mondello offers except
that it has a larger bore.  The bore and stoke on the 510 is 4.250 x 4.495.
The motor is essentially made from stock parts or off the shelf
aftermarket stuff and will be a LOW rpm torque motor.  MAX rpm will be 6000
with a better likelihood of around 5600.  This should not be a problem
since be best times I ever turned with my .060 over 455 were done by
shifting at 5600 and then letting it pull through the traps at about 6000.
This is not a small block Chevy.  But who wants to turn 10,000 rpm on the
street where torque rules?

My main concerns on this package at this point are the rod/stoke ratio of
1.47/1 and its effect on the cylinder sidewalls after a .125 overbore
(stock 455 r/s ratio is 1.585/1) and breathing.  As you know Olds is not
known for being a deep breather.  Consequently after considering the cost
of using Batten heads (NOT) and popping for a set of professionally ported
heads from Mondello (my first choice) I'm going to try to do a little
pocket porting (not to be confused with pocket pool) and port match the
intake for now and maybe spring for the heads in a year or so if the rest
of the package works out to be the street-killer I hope it will be.  The
Edelbrock Torker intake and a set of Hooker 3201 Competition Series headers
with a 3" exhaust to the back of the car (exit in front of axle is not cool
as it stirres up too much dust when you dump that close to the ground (been
there, done that) will make up the air handling package.  Oh, I'm going to
start out with a Q-jet carb (after racing them for 10 years I can make them
work pretty good) but hopefully if the money god is happy with me this year
I'll spring for a 900 cfm Holley fuel injection unit.

I'm going to have to close pretty quick here so I'll give you a short
report on where I,m at on the buildup.  Right now I am beburring the block
and heads to get a better oil return to the pan.  I will also do some work
on the oil pump mount area of the rear main cap to improve the transition
of the oil as it is pumped out of the pump and into the cap on its way to
the oil filter.  I will also work on the oil filter mount where it bolts to
the side of the block to improve the oil flow transition there.  The block
has already been hot tanked once checked for cracks and been rough bored to
size.  I have ground the sides of the 455 BUICK (yes,you read this right)
rods and they are being shot peened and bead blasted and sized now.  I will
use new ARP rod bolts from Mondello.

The next step will be to finish the crank, finish bore the block, and trial
fit a piston/rod to check deck clearance an rod clearance in the bottom
end.  More on this maybe Sunday eve.

Later, docolds  (in Nebraska)

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:30:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Brothers & Kanter Info

In a message dated 4/5/97 4:08:12 AM, you wrote:

<<Hey there guys....  about KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS....
just a warning....

Maybe it was my bad luck, BUT...
>>

Maybe it was just bad planning.  You can't reasonably expect (even in our
here and now society)  to be able to purchase specialty automotive products,
expect to have them work, and expect to be running 2 days later.  You should
be thankful that these people have dedicated their lives to helping people
like you with obscure projects like this!  It's easy to vilify them, but take
a hard look at your own actions. Kanter has been around for years.  You
should have planned ahead!  A better strategy would have been to aquire those
items needed far in advance!  That way your "problems"  could have been
addressed in a realistic time frame, and in  a manner more consistent with
the results you wanted.  Hate to say it but it sounds to me like your kanter
"problem"  was mostly yours!   Perspective is a matter of choice!  A more
realistic set of expectations and some proper planning  could have minimized
your "problems".  The flip side is that perhaps it's only because Kanter
existed that you were able to re-do this engine at all?  Where would you have
gone without them?    You may not be happy with the results but the fact is
they facilitated your abilty to rebuild the unit at all.  Perhaps you should
send them a thank you letter....

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:36:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression Question

here is a list of common PSI reading that i have found relevalent to
compression ratios:

85-100 psi8.3 - 8.6 compression
100-1208.6 - 9.0 compression
120-1409.0 - 9.5 compression

140-1609.5 - 10  compression
160- 18010 - 10.5

this will give you a good approximation of where your compression ratio
stands. i have collectied this data testing various engines (stock and
modified over the years ) i have some data for 12 & 13 compression engines
related to psi if anyone is interesed.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:43:42 -0400
Subject: Re: engine swap

At 10:02 AM 4/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have an '89 GMC C1500 with a 4.3 chevy and it's showing that it's a
>chevy motor- blow by, piston knock you know typical chevy problems. I
>want to put in a s.b. Olds motor in it. I was looking in a repair manual
>for a late model caprice it showed 307 Olds as being an engine available
>in these cars till '90. The distributor and coil look the same as the
>set up in the truck. Does anybody know if this distributor from one of
>these cars would be compatible with the trucks electronics?
>
>
>Daren
>
>
>
Electronically, Delco distributors of the same type are, interchangable,
regardless of what brand of car they were in; even though they may not be
physically interchangable!  Physically interchangability is totally a
different matter.  Just as an example, Oldsmobile and Ch*vy distributors
turn in different directions.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:49:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Brothers & Kanter Info

At 12:30 PM 4/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 4/5/97 4:08:12 AM, you wrote:
>
><<Hey there guys....  about KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS....
>just a warning....
>
>Maybe it was my bad luck, BUT...
>>>
>
>Maybe it was just bad planning.  You can't reasonably expect (even in our
>here and now society)  to be able to purchase specialty automotive products,
>expect to have them work, and expect to be running 2 days later.  You should
>be thankful that these people have dedicated their lives to helping people
>like you with obscure projects like this!  It's easy to vilify them, but take
>a hard look at your own actions. Kanter has been around for years.  You
>should have planned ahead!  A better strategy would have been to aquire those
>items needed far in advance!  That way your "problems"  could have been
>addressed in a realistic time frame, and in  a manner more consistent with
>the results you wanted.  Hate to say it but it sounds to me like your kanter
>"problem"  was mostly yours!   Perspective is a matter of choice!  A more
>realistic set of expectations and some proper planning  could have minimized
>your "problems".  The flip side is that perhaps it's only because Kanter
>existed that you were able to re-do this engine at all?  Where would you have
>gone without them?    You may not be happy with the results but the fact is
>they facilitated your abilty to rebuild the unit at all.  Perhaps you should
>send them a thank you letter....
>
>
>

Why not?  Isn't that why they are called speciality?  A speciality house
should be able to provide the right part the first time, if given the proper
specs to draw from.  The thread of yesterday about Kanter, and their ability
to provide used bearings, and 2 improper valves are not the earmarks of a
speciality supplier, but rather of a third rate operation, a tier or so
below the much beloved J.C. Whitney; who can do equally well!

They don't desirve a letter of thanks, but rather they need to be
blacklisted.  And they certainly charge like they know what they are doing.

Wix Wax

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 14:56:36 -0400
Subject: Re: engine swap

On Sat, 5 Apr 1997 10:02:06 -0400 Daren@qconline.com writes:
>I have an '89 GMC C1500 with a 4.3 chevy and it's showing that it's a
>chevy motor- blow by, piston knock you know typical chevy problems. I
>want to put in a s.b. Olds motor in it. I was looking in a repair
>manual
>for a late model caprice it showed 307 Olds as being an engine
>available
>in these cars till '90. The distributor and coil look the same as the
>set up in the truck. Does anybody know if this distributor from one of
>these cars would be compatible with the trucks electronics?
>
>
>Daren
>
In additon, you may need to change the computer. That may be a different
setup, also.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: GBodyTek2@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 15:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Underhood Lights

In a message dated 97-03-31 23:35:24 EST, you write:

<< Today while I was playing around with mine I decided that I'd rather have
it on whenever the hood
<< is open rather than have to switch on the parking lights too. Since I now
have a nice shiny new underhood
<< light with a functioning merc switch  (thanks Bob Handren!) it was easy to
do.
 I found this rather strange also...  My 86 Cutlass Supreme (307 Y) only
lights up with the parking lights on, BUT...  my 84 and 85 Regal Limiteds
both come on when the hood lifts. I guess they tried to throw on a few extra
ounces to slow down the TR's...   (Ironic I notice this after I get my tags
and notice the weights are different by 630 lbs, of which the Cutlass is
definetly bigger!)

<< Having made the change I like it a lot better. Having the light
automatically come on whenever you open the << hood seems pretty cool when
someone wants to look at your engine compartment, for example. I made up a
<< lead with a lug connector on one end for the hot side of the junction
 block/horn relay and a mating connector  << to the light on the other, with
some heat shrink over the splice. Looks very nice.
Okay; You wanna clue the rest of us in on the procedure? Say a schematic and
a few pictures for those of us who aren't very imaginative...

<< Sometimes the little, simple things are the most satisfying!
<< Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada >>


      Thanks for the input.               Jeff Craig / GBodyTek2@aol.com
                                                   Everett, WA  86 'Lass, 84
& 85 Regal Ltd's

------------------------------

From: GBodyTek2@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 15:52:08 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª588 More on Tires & Rims

In a message dated 97-04-02 13:58:37 EST, you write:

<< A friend of mine squeezed Kelly Springfield 275 60 R15's under his 78
 Grand Prix.  Can't see why the Cutlass can't either.  They were on the
 15 X 7 in Pontiac Rally II wheels.  (backspace info can be measured off
 of one)
 Yes, it was within the fenders, not sticking out.  No air shocks!
  Looked absolutely cool!
  Thomas Martin
 85 Cutlass Supreme, 307 V8 >>


Okay, but did Olds make the 5? hole rims that were stock on the mid80's
G-bod's That were on my Cutlass
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/GBodyTek2">http://members.aol.com/GBodyTek2</A
> (you can see it at the top of my web page) in a 15 inch rim? I want to go
with the bigger rims all around, and they can be painted, with new rings
inserted in all the holes.

Thanks!!                       Jeff Craig  /  Everett, WA
                  GBodyTek2@aol.com / NavyStore@aol.com

------------------------------

From: GBodyTek2@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 15:52:09 -0400
Subject: Re: What was that intake?

In a message dated 97-04-03 01:43:33 EST, you write:

<< The 307 VIN 9's (The high-output version on '83-'84 H/O's, and '85-'88
442's) came with an aluminum 4bbl manifold. >>


Do you know what the series numbers were on these intakes in 85-86? I have a
4 barrel low rise intake on my 307Y, 86 'Lass Supreme...


                      Jeff Craig / Everett, WA
    GbodyTek2@aol.com / NavyStore@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 16:07:03 -0400
Subject: Re: engine swap  (electronics/distributors)

I'm not really an expert on that new of vehicles, but as far as I know,
Feed the 307 some 12v power, and it will run.  As far as interchanging,
the shaft/drive between chev/olds I believe is quite different, the the
'top' guts are the same.
What I really wanted to say is, congrat's for making the closest thing to
an olds 1/2 ton.  Keep me posted on what a 307 goes like in a truck
application.


(Just wishing olds made a 1/2ton, complete with olds-type interior/etc in
the 70's)




EA~
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/

On Sat, 5 Apr 1997 Daren@qconline.com wrote:

> I have an '89 GMC C1500 with a 4.3 chevy and it's showing that it's a
> chevy motor- blow by, piston knock you know typical chevy problems. I
> want to put in a s.b. Olds motor in it. I was looking in a repair manual
> for a late model caprice it showed 307 Olds as being an engine available
> in these cars till '90. The distributor and coil look the same as the
> set up in the truck. Does anybody know if this distributor from one of
> these cars would be compatible with the trucks electronics?
>
>
> Daren
>
>

------------------------------

From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 17:13:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Bench to buckets

Steven Karlecke wrote:
>
> Im getting ready to change my 70 Cutlass from a bench seat to buckets.
> I already have the console, shifter and seats.  Is there any helpful
> hints or suggestions that I should be aware of.  Has anyone done this
> before and maybe can give me advice on any pitfalls that I might run
> into.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> SDKAR@worldnet.att.net

Steve,  I went from buckets to bench in my '69 442.(why? Because the
buckets were trashed and the parts car had a mint front bench seat)
Anyway the studs don't line up so you can either drill some holes, make
sure you stay on the cross braces or you can use a piece of 1/4" plate
to relocate the studs.  I drilled a hole in the 1/4" plate and mounted
it on the existing hole and put another bolt through a second hole which
lined up with the seat rail.

good luck

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 16:57:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d

> My main concerns on this package at this point are the rod/stoke ratio of
> 1.47/1 and its effect on the cylinder sidewalls after a .125 overbore
> (stock 455 r/s ratio is 1.585/1) and breathing.  As you know Olds is not
> known for being a deep breather.  Consequently after considering the cost
> of using Batten heads (NOT) and popping for a set of professionally
ported

Edelbrock is scheduled to sell Aluminum BB Olds heads late this year or
early '98.  The design specs are not yet known.

> heads from Mondello (my first choice) I'm going to try to do a little
> pocket porting (not to be confused with pocket pool) and port match the
> intake for now and maybe spring for the heads in a year or so if the rest
> of the package works out to be the street-killer I hope it will be.  The
> Edelbrock Torker intake and a set of Hooker 3201 Competition Series
headers
> with a 3" exhaust to the back of the car (exit in front of axle is not
cool
> as it stirres up too much dust when you dump that close to the ground
(been
> there, done that) will make up the air handling package.  Oh, I'm going
to
> start out with a Q-jet carb (after racing them for 10 years I can make
them
> work pretty good) but hopefully if the money god is happy with me this
year
> I'll spring for a 900 cfm Holley fuel injection unit.

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 17:20:06 -0400
Subject: Front discs from F-body

Anybody know the specifics of swapping front disc brakes from an F-body to
a '67 A-body?

Any help is much appreciated,

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 18:50:48 -0400
Subject: Re: 6500rpm Vista Cruisers (was Re: Idioms for Easter)

I took off the 'goofy' woodgrain - but kept my stock '72 hubcaps (I really
like them - go figure).  Yeah, I'm really looking forward to putting this
motor together and doing the suspension work, etc.  The lowest gear I'll go
though is 3:73:1 as this is my main driver and its gotta do long distance
time occasionally.  But hey, I think it'll still move pretty good with that
combo.  And yep, I doubt many people will put two and two together (sound +
4000 lbs. of wagon).


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 19:00:22 -0400
Subject: Re: 6500rpm Vista Cruisers (was Re: Idioms for Easter)

Me too.  Now I've got the excuse also to look for another driver Olds as
the wagon will be down with all this installing & swapping I'll be doing.
I'm looking for a 49-52 (I hope) or another Cutlass (66-67 preferably).


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 19:08:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Third party aid for '61 Cutlass

Jeff - he left me a message too.  I forwarded him info out of Setting the
Pace as a starter.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 19:07:19 -0400
Subject: Idioms for Easter & Classic Red

Mr. Trendy at work who has the '65 painted hussy fingernail-fire engine
red,I have to look at the most had the most awful body work done - the
ripples are so noticeable and there is such a big gap under the front
window post where the front fender meets it the primer just glares up at
you (down 2" from the end of the post). But my favorite of all on this car
is the Mustang emblem on the side - the script itself - was bent and they
didn't get it QUITE straight and it dips in the middle.  Makes me laugh
every time I look at it.  And Mr. Trendy just put a Flowmaster system on
the dog so it's loud - just in case that bright red paint didn't catch
anyones eye.  I have to refrain myself from asking how much someone
suckered out of him for this "CLASSIC" car.  I know I'd just bust up laughing.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 18:30:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d

At 04:57 PM 4/5/97 -0400, Suzanne Rousseau wrote:
>
>> My main concerns on this package at this point are the rod/stoke ratio of
>> 1.47/1 and its effect on the cylinder sidewalls after a .125 overbore
>> (stock 455 r/s ratio is 1.585/1) and breathing.  As you know Olds is not
>> known for being a deep breather.  Consequently after considering the cost
>> of using Batten heads (NOT) and popping for a set of professionally
>ported
>
>Edelbrock is scheduled to sell Aluminum BB Olds heads late this year or
>early '98.  The design specs are not yet known.

Speaking of heads, there was an Olds in the paper for sale last week that
claimed to have a 455 olds with Lingenfelter heads. Lingenfelter is of chevy
fame and makes tons of performance stuff for the vette, camaro, firebird,
etc. Anybody heard of Lingenfelter heads for an Olds?
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:31:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Idioms for Easter & Classic Red

James Thingwold wrote:
>
> Mr. Trendy at work who has the '65 painted hussy fingernail-fire engine
> red,I have to look at the most had the most awful body work done - the
> ripples are so noticeable and there is such a big gap under the front
> window post where the front fender meets it the primer just glares up at
> you (down 2" from the end of the post). But my favorite of all on this car
> is the Mustang emblem on the side - the script itself - was bent and they
> didn't get it QUITE straight and it dips in the middle.  Makes me laugh
> every time I look at it.  And Mr. Trendy just put a Flowmaster system on
> the dog so it's loud - just in case that bright red paint didn't catch
> anyones eye.  I have to refrain myself from asking how much someone
> suckered out of him for this "CLASSIC" car.  I know I'd just bust up
laughing. > > Lisa Madsen

Lisa,

Please contain yourself.  It is not proper for the priviledged to look
down upon the unfortunate.  Good taste is an acquired thing.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

The display of status symbols is usually the result of low self-esteem.
The confident person can afford to project a modest image - anon.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 13:16:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Third party aid for '61 Cutlass

>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
> Date:
>           Fri, 4 Apr 1997 18:38:34 -0500
>    From:
>           Eric Saltsman <esalts@zoomnet.net>
>       To:
>           "'jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com'"
>
> I need help.
> My uncle called me tonight and wants me to look up price info and
> production info on an Oldsmoblie That I can't seem to find anything
> about.
> This is the info he gave me on the phone:
> 1961 0ldsmobile Cutlass
> V-8 engine and another number that came along... 215(which I don't know
> what it means.) PLEASE tell me anything  applicable to this car and I
> will be Happy!
> THANKS!
> --
Eric,

I understand that Lisa Madden sent you some information from "Setting
the Pace' on your 1961 Cutlass.  I own a relative of this car.  It is
called a 1962 Jetfire.  Mine is a hardtop while yours is a 2-door.  The
Jetfire is a Turbocharged 215 cu. aluminum V8 version of your engine.

Information that I have from "The Standard Catalog of American Cars
1954-1975", says:

F-85 - For the first time Oldsmobile broke with their three series
format in 1961.  On the bottom of the Oldsmobile lineup was the all new
F-85 compact series.  Smaller than any other postwar Oldsmobile, the
F-85 was powered by a unique aluminum 215 cubic inch V-8.  The F-85
joined small car offerings from Buick and Pontiac.  Standard equipment
on the series included foam cushioned front seat; front arm rests; dual
sunvisors; turn signals; stabilizer bar and self energizing brakes.
Cloth or vinyl trimmed interiors were offered.  Standard tire size was
6.50 x 13 inches.

F-85 ID Numbers:  Engine numbers gegan with S-00-001.  Serial Numbers on
cars that were built in Lansing contained an M.  Serial Numbers on cars
that were built in South Gate, California contained a C.4

F-85 Series:
Model    Body/Style   Body Type      Factory    Shipping    Production
Number   Number       & Seating      Price      Weight      Total
85       61-3011      2 dr Cpe-5P     2502      2712        12,515
85       61-3019      4 dr Sed 5P     2384      2666        28,192
85       61-3035      4 dr Sta Wag 5P 2654      2742         8,123
Deluxe
85       61-3119      4 dr Sta Wag 5P 2519      2798        10,087
85       61-3135      4 dr Sta Wag 7P 2789      2815           757

F-85 Engines: Aluminum block,Overhead valves, Liquid cooled V-8 engine.
Bore & stroke: 3.5 x 2.8 inches.  Displacement: 215 cubic inches.
Hydraulic valve lifters.  Compression ratio: 8.75 to 1.  Torque: 210
pound feet at 3200 RPM.  Horsepower: 155 at 3200 RPM.  Carburetor:
two-barrel, Rochester 2GC.

Chassis Features: Wheelbase: 112 inches.  Overall length: 188.2 inches.
Front tread: 56 inches.  Rear tread: 56 inches.

Drive Train Options: All F-85's were powered by the aluminum block
Rockette V-8 engine.  A power pack option consisted of high compression
heads, four barrel carburetor, and dual exhausts.  It boosted the
horsepower rating 30 to 185.  Other engine options were heavy-duty air
cleaner, full flow oil filter, and positive crankcase ventilation
system.  All F-85's came standard with a three-speed manual transmission
with the Hydra-Matic a popular $189 option.

Convenience Options:  Heater/defroster ($74).  Power steering ($86).
DeLuxe radio ($65).  Backup lights ($7).  Windshield washer ($11).
Padded dash ($12).  Electric clock ($16).  Air conditioning ($378).
Outside mirror ($4).

If I can be of further help, please call on me.  I have owned one of
these wonderful cars since 1976.  I hope to have mine in Lansing this
August.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Linda Brooks" <brookslc@upper-cumberland.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 20:16:57 -0400
Subject: help

I am trying to unsubscribe from oldsmobile digest without success.  I have
sent several tries to Majordomo etc. but the reply keeps coming back that I
have not subscribed.  However I receive one or two digests daily.  No
longer have our '68 cutlass w/455 big block, our 72 cutlass with 350 rocket
or our 71 cutlass supreme with 350 rocket.  Just got rid of all of them
recently and no longer wish to receive the digest.  Can you help?
brookslc@upper-cumberland.net

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 20:25:16 -0400
Subject: Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d

>Speaking of heads, there was an Olds in the paper for sale last week that
>claimed to have a 455 olds with Lingenfelter heads. Lingenfelter is of chevy
>fame and makes tons of performance stuff for the vette, camaro, firebird,
>etc. Anybody heard of Lingenfelter heads for an Olds?

I can't recall the details, but I was sure he did Olds for years and only
recently switched to the bowtie side.  As for heads and other specific
products, I have no idea.


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
                     (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

_ __/|
\`O_o'
=(_ _)= - Ack!  Phttpt!!  Nyet!!!
   U

------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 21:02:54 -0400
Subject: Re: 510  Olds buildup cont"d

>
>>Speaking of heads, there was an Olds in the paper for sale last week that
>>claimed to have a 455 olds with Lingenfelter heads. Lingenfelter is of chevy
>>fame and makes tons of performance stuff for the vette, camaro, firebird,
>>etc. Anybody heard of Lingenfelter heads for an Olds?
>
>I can't recall the details, but I was sure he did Olds for years and only
>recently switched to the bowtie side.  As for heads and other specific
>products, I have no idea.

Nope, actually, Mr. Lingenfelter has an awesome shop in Decatur, IN that
attests to his long-standing Chev connection.  He has built many megapowered
Vettes and Camaros, as well as Bonneville and drag cars.  In fact, one of my
Olds buddies refers to him as the "Joe Mondello of Chevrolet."  He does do
work on other brands, though, so perhaps someone does indeed have a set of
Lingenfelter-prepped Olds heads, though he certainly has never manufactured
any of his own.
Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 20:54:57 -0400
Subject: RE: Brothers & Kanter Info

- ----------
From:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca[SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent:  Saturday, April 05, 1997 9:40 AM
To:  Rabid
Subject:  Re: Brothers & Kanter Info


Maybe it was just bad planning.  You can't reasonably expect (even in =
our
here and now society)  to be able to purchase specialty automotive =
products,
expect to have them work, and expect to be running 2 days later.  You =
should
be thankful that these people have dedicated their lives to helping =
people
like you with obscure projects like this!  It's easy to vilify them, but =
take
a hard look at your own actions. Kanter has been around for years.  You
should have planned ahead!  A better strategy would have been to aquire =
those
items needed far in advance!  That way your "problems"  could have been
addressed in a realistic time frame, and in  a manner more consistent =
with
the results you wanted.  Hate to say it but it sounds to me like your =
kanter
"problem"  was mostly yours!   Perspective is a matter of choice!  A =
more
realistic set of expectations and some proper planning  could have =
minimized
your "problems".  The flip side is that perhaps it's only because Kanter
existed that you were able to re-do this engine at all?  Where would you =
have
gone without them?    You may not be happy with the results but the fact =
is
they facilitated your abilty to rebuild the unit at all.  Perhaps you =
should
send them a thank you letter....

I am all for planning ahead and realize it is a must. But what is a =
person to do with used bearings and a mis-matched set of parts. I'm =
sorry, that has nothing to do with poor planning and everything to do =
with a poor supplier. Just like Brothers, if they can not supply me with =
a catalog in over 6 months time, how can I reasonably expect them to =
deliver parts on a timely basis, even with the most carefully laid =
plans???

Jim Rabideau
70 W30

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 21:57:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression Question

At 06:16 AM 4/5/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok.. in the same lines as compression ratios.  I have a 1972 442 W30, =
>the car was raced from day one, and sense the late 70's has been pretty =
>much a street car.  Now, I do not know if the lower end of the engine =
>has been moded, I would doubt it.  The pistons seem to look like stock.  =
>But I went out and bought a compression tester.  Unfortunately Like any =
>compression tester, they tell you PSI.  Now I am getting aprox 90psi per =
>cylinder.  Is this average?  I am trying to determine the compression =

That seems to be average for a pretty worn-out 8.5:1 compression engine.
That's the figure from a warm engine, right? You need rings at the very
least, but probably an overbore and new pistons as well.

>the 12 second range at the track.  I have J heads on this engine, with a =

What happened to the stock Ga heads?

>3/4 cam, 1/2" lift.  Very big cam it's like .496 lift or something like =
>that.  But anyway, I am getting 90psi in the cylinders is this good/bad =
>how can I determine the compression ratio from this information?

You can't directly determine compression ratio from a compression test. If
you have a long-duration cam, you can have very low compression readings on
a test like this, even if you have a true 11:1 compression ratio, since the
long duration bleeds off cylinder pressure at low rpm. A cam with the specs
you mentioned (what's the duration, btw?) isn't really that big these days;
big with an Olds cam starts at .520" (when you have to machine the valve
guides for clearance), but you can have a perfectly streetable engine with
cam lift of .550"+, as long as the duration and overlap are not too crazy.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 21:57:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 6500rpm Vista Cruisers (was Re: Idioms for Easter)

At 05:50 PM 4/5/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I took off the 'goofy' woodgrain - but kept my stock '72 hubcaps (I really
>like them - go figure).  Yeah, I'm really looking forward to putting this
>motor together and doing the suspension work, etc.  The lowest gear I'll go
>though is 3:73:1 as this is my main driver and its gotta do long distance

Oh, I thought this 400 was destined for your '72 VC _project_ car; I didn't
realize that this would be a daily driver. In that case, forget the 4.11's;
3.42's would be the best if you were going to do a lot of highway/long-trip
driving. You're right, though, it will still move out quite nicely! So, will
the current 350 go to motivate the project '72, then?

BTW, the H/O link on your page still points to Hemmings... (superb page,
otherwise; don't know if I'd mentioned that before.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 23:34:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Compression Question

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That seems to be average for a pretty worn-out 8.5:1 compression engine.
That's the figure from a warm engine, right? You need rings at the very
least, but probably an overbore and new pistons as well.

>
[Aaron R. Weimer]
No it was not warm.. I will do it again..


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª595
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