To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #534


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, 24 February 1997      Volume 01 : Number 534

Re: Painting SSI wheels
Yippee!!
Re: window motor
Finnally I found My Peers......
Re: 56 Oldsmobiles
57 olds 88 part
Re: more 307
Re: Painting SSI wheels
Hey, anything Olds is better than nothin'
Edelbrock Olds Heads
Re: Yippee!!
Re: window motor
Re: window motor
Re: Parts for sale -Reply
Re: Rear main seal 455
Re: Repaired antenna
Re: window motor
Re: window motor
M-21 Troubles
67 W-30's
Re: M-21 problems
Re: Hey, anything Olds is better than nothin'
Re: Bodywork
Re: 307 problem history
Re: Edelbrock Olds Heads
Rear main seals
'66 Toro Carb needed...
Re: '55 Olds steering noise
Re: window motor
Re: "Y" and "9" 307's
Electronics 101, was: Yippee!!
307-Y to 307-9 part no's.  (WAS re: more 307)
Re[2]: more 307
Re: Finnally I found My Peers......
Re: 76 Cutlass S Dakotan  & Rockit Doors
Re: Bodywork
Need part for bucket seat...
394 for sale...
Re: Finnally I found My Peers......(non-smog)
Re: Finnally I found My Peers......(non-smog)
Cotter pin reuse
1971 350 engine paint
Re: Rear main seal 455
Re: Parts for sale -Reply
Re: Engine Refresh Options?
Re: Hey, anything Olds is better than nothin'
Kurt
Re: more 307
Re: Calais steering
Re: Rebuilding
Re: 307 problem history
Re: Rebuilding
64 4-4-2 info please
Re: Finnally I found My Peers......(non-smog)
Re: Yippee!!
Re: 57 olds 88 part
Re: Rear main seals
Re: Rear main seal 455
Re: Need part for bucket seat...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:45:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting SSI wheels

Robert J. Lavey wrote:

> I just got my SSIs back from the sandblaster.  The backs and insides are now
> clean metal.  How should I paint the backs/insides?  Will Rustoleum (or
> similar) work okay, or should I go to the auto paint store?

I just redid my SSIIs which were sandblasted.  I used engine paint on
the rims.
Black for the back side and Gray for the front.  I was told that brakes
can
get very hot so I needed a paint designed to handle the heat.

Good luck.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:42:27 -0400
Subject: Yippee!!

Well, after several hours of leaning over my fender this weekend
straightening out the wire mess, I figured out my HEI!  The problem actually
was the wire.  I thought for sure that the wire I had was not the original
resistor wire, but as I tore off some of that electrical tape and revealed
some new wire I saw printed on it:  "Resistor wire - do not cut".  Needless
to say, I cut it.  The strange thing was, when I tested the voltage output of
resistance wire with the key in the "on" position, it tested at 12v -- with a
half dead battery.  Then after I replaced it with a 10 gauge wire, it tested
the same.  But oh well.  It works now -- that's all that matters.

Oh, BTW... I did end up buying the cheapo RadioShack multimeter, and
I'm quite satisfied with it.  I take back everything I said about RadioShack
electronics.  I still won't budge on thier cheapo auto stereo equipment,
though... ;)  It's compareable to Audiovox or Kraco in quality, and Kenwood
or Alpine in price.

Thanks a bunch everyone for your help.  I hope I never have to deal with
this again.  But if I do, at least I know what to do...

- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:54:39 -0400
Subject: Re: window motor

You didnt' mention what year and model the car is!

If it is a G-body, I'd suggest a late 70's motor out of the scrapyard,
because they were much more powerful than the newer ones (much quicker,
and less likely to fail).

Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Mon, 24 Feb 1997 Junior627@aol.com wrote:

> well my window is stuck in the down position and will not go up i was
> wondering if anyone had suggestions on how i could fix or replace
it...(maybe > someone is trying to sell one) still looking for the light
covers too... > >

------------------------------

From: Ossipee104@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:01:17 -0400
Subject: Finnally I found My Peers......

Hello everyone, I am a Oldsmobile owner . Until now I honestly thought I was
the only person alive that wanted to do up his OLDS. I have searched high and
low for parts info. Engine swap info, accesories and so on. Every magazine I
picked up was for chevy,chevy,chevy. I got so annoyed at that. I own a 86
Cutlass Supreme with a  307 in it. I want to either rebiuld my stock engine
or find a suitable sub. My biggest problem is the ECM and the fact that I
have to stay emission legal. I am in the military, and I move almost as much
as you guys change your underware (ha-ha). I would like to keep my car a
everyday driver, but I also want street performance. I have already done the
interior and so forth. I have to admit, the car really looks cherry however,
I need to make her healthy. PLEASE help me get there with this project. I
have already found a bunch of info. on your site and for that I thank you.I
have found Mondello's article on building a 307 and now I have to look up the
actual article to see what he says about it. Anyway send me all your
suggestions and believe me I will take it all to heart and appreciate all
your help. Send it to OSSIPEE104@aol.com. Thanks again and this is a
excellent site. Don't let anything happen to it because I at least will refer
back to this often. Later !!!!!!

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:38:47 -0400
Subject: Re: 56 Oldsmobiles

Yep, there's a Super 88 that cruises around Greeneville or used to up
until a couple of years ago when it suddenly disapeared.  Of course, I
know where it is, and it is still as cool as ever.  Black lacquer paint
with blue flames on the front end that are faded from darker blue at the
front to lighter blue about the middle.  The car has a 371(?) J-2 motor
swapped into it instead of the original 324 4bbl.  It's got a built
original tranny, and is lowered and shaved (smoothed).  It does, however,
still retain the original chrome trim (other than door handles etc.)
original body panels, original glass, and certainly has a "classic" look
to it even with the modifications.  Nice car!!!  Used to be owned by a man
by the name of Sam Elswick, but unfortunately he is dead now.  IMHO, the
56's with that sort of "split" side trim on the 1/4's had the nicest
looking chrome treatment of any 50's Oldsmobiles (although myself, I
prefer the "classier" styling of the '49 98).

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: "Brian Page" <fpd@vivanet.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:55:28 -0400
Subject: 57 olds 88 part

I put a request for a part on the "parts wanted" section but I could use a
little more information on the part and it's possible availability. The
part is a plastic tray (not the correct description, but the only way I
know how to describe it) that goes between the dash and the windshield.
There were a few pieces of the "tray" left when I tore my car apart for
rebuilding. It appears to attach by slipping over some fasteners situated
along the edge of the dash front and the edge of the inner cowl. There must
be someone with a "57 out there who knows what I'm attempting to describe.
I could use the name of the part and a possible source of purchase if
available. Thanx.....

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:02:25 -0400
Subject: Re: more 307

Wiz,
        These were warranty engine replacements. When out of warranty they
become customer pay which pays about 16 hours if I remember right. Don't ask
why warranty and customer pay is different it is still the same job. Also
Cadillac had a tech bullentin that stated 1 qt per 1000 miles was considered
normal oil consumption which I don't think is right. Try telling sombody who
spent between 40-50k on a car this.
                  Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:11:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting SSI wheels

Bob,
        After spending the money on blasting I would put some type of Epoxy
Primer like Ditzler DP-90 then a couple of coats of single stage urethane. I
don't know if they make a masking kit for the spokes but it wouldn't take
long to use masking tape. Speaking of masking tape get 3M NOT the 3 rolls for
a dollar stuff. It will save you a lot of time in the long run.
                                           Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:13:40 -0400
Subject: Hey, anything Olds is better than nothin'

<<Olds content: I finally saw that 455 Rocket video by Kathy Mattea last
night. What a terrible song, IMO. But yet country is my least favorite kind
of music so I doubt anything could make me like it.....
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  >>

De gustibus non disputandem est.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:13:42 -0400
Subject: Edelbrock Olds Heads

Darn!  Forgot to post this earlier.

During Speed Weeks at Daytona, there is a monster (for us anyway)
manufacturers exhibit.  I was able to get a "trade" pass and went.  After
hauling all the catalogs I accumulated all over the hall and back to the car
in the parking lot, I can now touch my toes without bending down. :-)  Must
be about 30 lbs worth.

Anyway, Edelbrock had a huge display.  I asked about the progress on the Olds
head and got the deer in the headlights look.  Hey, if it ain't C*evy, it
doesn't exist!  One wise fellow suggested I check back when their "research
engineer" would be around.  I did so and got one better than the engineer.
 How about Vic Edelbrock in person.

He is said he has 1 (one) guy working on it part time and confirmed that Joe
Mondello has been there to provide advice.   So this head is under
development.

I asked for a time frame for availability.  End of the year at best.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:42:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Yippee!!

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> Well, after several hours of leaning over my fender this weekend
> straightening out the wire mess, I figured out my HEI!  The problem actually
> was the wire.  I thought for sure that the wire I had was not the original
> resistor wire, but as I tore off some of that electrical tape and revealed
> some new wire I saw printed on it:  "Resistor wire - do not cut".  Needless
> to say, I cut it.  The strange thing was, when I tested the voltage output
of > resistance wire with the key in the "on" position, it tested at 12v --
with a > half dead battery.  Then after I replaced it with a 10 gauge wire, it
tested > the same.  But oh well.  It works now -- that's all that matters. > >
Oh, BTW... I did end up buying the cheapo RadioShack multimeter, and > I'm
quite satisfied with it.  I take back everything I said about RadioShack >
electronics.  I still won't budge on thier cheapo auto stereo equipment, >
though... ;)  It's compareable to Audiovox or Kraco in quality, and Kenwood >
or Alpine in price. > > Thanks a bunch everyone for your help.  I hope I
never have to deal with > this again.  But if I do, at least I know what to
do... > > -Blaine > '72 Cutlass Supreme


I just put audiovox tri-ax speakers in my club wagon and they sound
great to me.  2 6"x9" in back and 2 6.5" in front.  I think they sound
better than the kenwoods in my truck.    FYI

------------------------------

From: Junior627@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:39:31 -0400
Subject: Re: window motor

it is a 1985 delta 88 2door...

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:38:32 -0400
Subject: Re: window motor

Junior627@aol.com wrote:
>
> well my window is stuck in the down position and will not go up i was
> wondering if anyone had suggestions on how i could fix or replace
it...(maybe > someone is trying to sell one) still looking for the light
covers too...

What exactly are "light covers"?  I noticed the add for '69 cutlass/442
light covers and I have no idea what this is.

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:46:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts for sale -Reply

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> >>> Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net> 02/22/97 08:55pm >>>
> >>69 442 4 spoke aluminum sport steering wheel......$95
> >
> >Ninety five bucks?!  They're not ~that~ rare, are they??
>
> Dave, if you've been wanting one of those, I'd recommend snagging it.
> They *are* getting harder to come by.  I paid $135 for mine (I'm probably
> one of the poorest people on the list), and I had to paint the hub and
> button to make it match... But I still think it was worth every penny --
> because it was in excellent condition.  If I didn't already have one, I'd
have > bought this one by now... > > If you still have doubts, try calling
Brother's Automotive and asking them for > a price on a used one.  When I
called 6 months ago, they were wanting > $180.  I laughed and hung up. > >
-Blaine

I thought the sport wheel for a '69 was a three spoke plastic/rubber
type.  Although Art Fuller has never found me one to look at.

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:58:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear main seal 455

Kenneth G. Holland Jr. wrote:
>
> I've got a 2 piece rear main seal.. Was wondering if anyone has any tips
> on installation.  The motor is out of the car.  The seal has 2 rubber
> pieces and 2 cloth pieces.  I assume the rubber pieces go half in the
> cap and half in the engine block on either side of the crank and the
> cloth pieces are trimmed to fit between the two rubber pieces.  My 1969
> Motors Manual doesnt say squat about the seal and there were no
> directions with it.  Can anyone help?
>
> rottin@coil.com

I installed a two-piece "neopreme" (not sure of spelling) seal on my
445.  Make sure the seal angle "\" is facing toward the motor. If not it
will leak.  Also I wouldn't do any trimming on it, it will seal tight
when the main cap is torqued.

------------------------------

From: Jeff Ferraro <jtf4227@unix.tamu.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:39:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Repaired antenna

> ------------------------------
>
> From: Howard H <howardh@sundial.sundial.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 00:27:36 -0400
> Subject: Repaired antenna..........not!
>
> Hey guys, need your help again with my '84 Hurst. I replaced the antenna
> lead that wraps in to the spool on the motor,old one snapped and antenna
> wouldn't move. When I put it all back together, I plugged the motor back to
> its harness and it immediately wound up and retracted the antenna like it
> should when radio is off and antenna is extended. After almost completely
> buttoning everything back up, I figured I should try and see if it extends
> correctly when I turn the radio on. Don't you knoww......nothing. Checked
> all fuses, connections and plugs. Appears nothing out of place. Tried a few
> more times, no luck. I undo everything again and pull the motor back out.
> Opened motor back up and checked
> what I could. I cleaned the armature and brushes, cleaned the two sets of
> contact points, cleaned and lubed worm and gear and made sure everything
> worked manually. I reassembled it again with antenna half extended, or for
> you pessimists here, half retracted :). When I plugged it back up (I was
> smart this time, I didn't remount under fender, just in case!!!!) it again
> reeled in the
> retracted mast like it should. I turned the radio on and......nothing. When
> the mast stopped working a while back I noticed the antenna motor ran on and
on. > It took me about 4-5 minutes to what was going on and what to do about
it. I > unplugged the 3 prong plug going to the motor assy. I've disconnected >
nothing else so I'm at a loss as to why it doesn't extend the mast, but will >
retract it. > Any ideas would be appreciated and put to use. > >

I'm replying to your question with another question; The pwr antenna on
my 86 442 gave up in a similar fashion - grinding motor with no motion.
I just unplugged it from the harness and left it stuck up, as I was
under the impression it is necessary to pull the fender to
replace/repair the assy.  Is this how you fixed yours or is there some
way to access it without dismantling the front end??  I assume the 84
hurst and the 86 442 have the same front passenger fender located
antenna.  Thanx

Jeff Ferraro    --- Gray/Silver 86 442

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:33:54 -0400
Subject: Re: window motor

>well my window is stuck in the down position and will not go up i was
>wondering if anyone had suggestions on how i could fix or replace it...(maybe
>someone is trying to sell one) still looking for the light covers too...

What kind of car? I'm going to guess power windows on a mid-'80's unit.

The official replacement procedure isn't all that bad if you bite the
bullet and buy a replacement motor assembly. Open up the door, identify
the three or four big pop-rivets holding the old motor in place, knock
out the center stub of the rivet heads with a punch, then drill out the
rivets themselves (they're aluminum and the drill will go through them
like butter). A little careful study will show you how the assembly
disconnects from the regulator, and the replacement motor comes with
nut-and-bolt sets to secure it where the rivets were. Shove a block of
wood in there to guard against having the window glass suddenly fall
after the motor's removed.

But before doing that, maybe you can get it going again. Mine would
die from lack of use. Driving around with my finger on the "Up" button
would sometimes get the window to suddenly spring to life again after
a mile or two, especially on twisty, bumpy roads that would flex the
body and doors. If I could grab hold of the top of the glass and bump
it up and down while an assistant held the switch down, that would
often get it going again. Finally, when all else failed, thumping on
the inside door panel over where the motor was positioned would also
get it going sometimes.

After bumping it back into life one way or another, I'd run it up and
down a _lot_ for a few minutes. That usually kept it working for weeks
if not months before the problem came back. I found that solution much
easier than actually spending _money_ on it.  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Ossipee104@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:05:05 -0400
Subject: Re: window motor

Thanks for writing, I have a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme.

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:47:31 -0400
Subject: M-21 Troubles

Per chance did you take the shifter off the transmission while it was out?

Hurst 4-speed shifters of that era must have all the shift plates (which the
rods are attached to) properly aligned.

If you look at the shifter from the left side you will see a notch and
corresponding holes in each plate.  If they are not aligned, the shifter will
lock up.  To adjust the system an alignment rod (a drill works, I don't
remember the size, whatever fits will work) must be used.   If this alignment
tool will not enter through any or all of these plates, it is misaligned.
 The shifter thinks you are in a gear and will not allow you to go to
another.  Remove the shift arms from the trans, insert the alignment rod,
adjust each arm so that it will connect to the appropriate lever on the
trans.  When all is aligned, remove the alignment rod and it should work.

Another cause could be, I hope not, that something was bent while moving the
trans around.

Hurst also offers a rebuild service for those shifters, if needed.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:47:34 -0400
Subject: 67 W-30's

Hi Bob:

Great name. :-)

I've owned a 67 442 since new and converted it to the W-30 package when is
became available.

What you have stated seems correct to me. One other piece of information is
that all 67 W-30's were build the third week of March (3C build date code on
the body tag) and all were built in Lansing. If that doesn't match it would
be one of the even rarer deal "Trak Pak" cars.  502 factory, maybe a hundred
or so dealer installed cars.

The fellow with absolutely the most knowledge of 66-67 W-30's is Curt
Anderson.  He is the advisor on these cars for the Olds Club of America.  He
can be reached at 612-398-3079, P.O. BOX 506, KIMBALL,MI 55353-0506.

You will not be disappointed in spending the phone call to Curt.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 14:49:00 -0400
Subject: Re: M-21 problems

Scott,
See if you can shift through the gears when the engine is off.  If you
can, you've pretty much ruled out a shifter problem or transmission
problem.  If you can't, your shifter (especially if it is original) may
be locking up.  My original one would shift the car into first and
reverse at the same time (if you let out the clutch pedal, the car would
go nowhere!)

Assuming  the shifter/trans is fine, and you did not touch the trans/
shifter rod length adjustment during your rebuild, the clutch is the
culprit.  Some things to check:

1)  Make sure the pivot arm is still on the bellhousing ball stud.
Sometimes it will slip off during reassembly.

2)  As someone earlier suggested, make sure the clutch linkage is
adjusted.  With the inspection cover removed (and the engine stopped, of
course), you should be able to put a .030" feeler gauge in between the
friction disk and the flywheel while someone has the clutch pedal fully
depressed.  The .030" figure is from memory, so somebody correct me if
I'm wrong.  I'll check my RAM clutch installation instructions (an
excellent guide) tonight.  This figure, combined with pedal free play,
is the best way to check the bellhousing stud/push rod length
adjustment.

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:09:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Hey, anything Olds is better than nothin'

BobH592058@aol.com wrote:

> De gustibus non disputandem est.

"In Olds we trust"? :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:11:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Bodywork

Dave Paulison wrote:
>
> Hey gang,
>
> I'm preparing to do some bodywork to my Olds.  I will be attempting to do
> most/all of the work myself; I figure I can't possibly make it look any
> worse than it does now.  What I need is some input on what some of you have
> done to repair rust holes.  I won't be fixing it the ~right~ way (welding in
> patch panels, etc).  I will just be using some type of body filler.  I am
> aware that it won't last long; if I get a couple years out of the paint job
> I'll be happy.  Maybe then I can afford to take it somewhere and have it
> done right.  Anyway, I need to know what works best/lasts longest as far as
> treating/eliminating rust goes.  I will back any large patch jobs with
> fiberglass where I can access the back of the body panel, but I can't get to
> all of them.  I have some type of rust eliminator called "Extend" and some,
> uh, Ospho (sp).  Should I use them, or get some POR-15 and forget the
others? > > Any input is appreciated! > > -- > Dave Paulison
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme > Melbourne, Florida             1993
Mitsubishi Eclipse GS > dpauliso@gate.net

I would bang the panels straight enough so you use the least amount of
bondo.  If the panel is banged up bad, replacement should be
considered.  I would also avoid using a torch.  Panels will warp and
crawl, save it for a professional, I learned the hard way.

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:40:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

  just my 2 cents worth here
   If the catalytic converter is still working there wouldn't be any smoke to
talk about because it would be burnt in the cat -- the life expectancy of the
cat will be greatly reduced if the engine is burning oil though, plus don't
forget the air injection system wich is installed to combust leftover
hydrocarbons that make it past the exhaust valves.  When the cat does
eventually expire expect performance to start to fall off as it starts to get
plugged by all of that extra soot from the oil

------------------------------

From: Ossipee104@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:15:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Olds Heads

Thanks for that info, I think it really sucks about the "If it aint chevy,It
don't exist. I think Vic Edelbrock would find a whole new market in other
applications. That's not to say anything bad about chevy, Ford or anyone else
for that matter. It is just kind of close minded to stick to one or two
American Divisions when there are others out there that would do as well. I
guess as long as it is an american car like chevy I should be proud and I am.
I wish they would put a strong effort into others like OLDS. Hint-Hint.

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 16:47:41 -0400
Subject: Rear main seals

<<The rope type is hard to do . To remove the old upper half you try to pull
it with needle nose plyers while turning the crank. Pushing it from the
other side can help a little if the seal is old and hard. If its soft it
will just wad up when pushed on. >>

KD and others make a tool for this.  It consists of a spiral cut metal
flexible rod (for want of a better description).  You "screw" this an inch or
more into the rope seal trapped in the block.  You can then pull the seal out
with the attached handle. Rotating the crank is probably still a very good
idea.

The F*rd rear seal is not one piece.  The Olds engine is not designed to
accept a one piece seal as there is no dimension smaller or equal to the
crank main bearing dimension.  It is superior to the rope.  The original
description of the contents of the gasket set would seem to indicate that
both were provided.  I believe that several others have commented that this
is now common practice.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:37:17 -0400
Subject: '66 Toro Carb needed...

If you have a '66 Toro Carb in good condition, let me know...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:29:35 -0400
Subject: Re: '55 Olds steering noise

buehner wrote:
>
> >I have a 55 Olds 98 and wheniturn rather sharply to the left, I get a
> >grinding noise.  there is no steering difficulty, just the noise.  Can you
> >help?
> >
> Wheel bearings?  Possibly...
>
> Looking at all the other responses, I'd tend to suspect this more and more.
> When turning, there is increased pressure on the front end componants, so
> any noises might be more noticeable then.  I'd say jack up the front wheel
> and rock the tire in and out.  Is there much movement?  If so, pull the tire
> and the wheel bearing dust cap (or whatever equivalent Olds used in 1955...)
> and rock the top of the brake drum in and out.  You should notice if there's
> any movement inside the hole there.  The nut may be coming loose, or the
> bearings may have gone south (look out, Bill, they're headed your way) or
> perhaps the brake guts have taken a dump inside the drum (in which case
> you'd still have to pull the bearings out anyway--on most cars...)
>
> Oh, and kudos for keeping some of America's finest steel on the road!  :)
>
>       Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
>       500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
>       Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>       Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>       "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>       "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)


I was wondering if 55 olds had ball bearings like a 57 Chevy.  A friend
of mine with a 57 Chevy is always replacing his.

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:52:15 -0400
Subject: Re: window motor

>>well my window is stuck in the down position and will not go up i was
>>wondering if anyone had suggestions on how i could fix or replace
it...(maybe >>someone is trying to sell one) still looking for the light
covers too... > >What kind of car? I'm going to guess power windows on a
mid-'80's unit. > >The official replacement procedure isn't all that bad if
you bite the >bullet and buy a replacement motor assembly. Open up the door,
identify >the three or four big pop-rivets holding the old motor in place,
knock >out the center stub of the rivet heads with a punch, then drill out the
>rivets themselves (they're aluminum and the drill will go through them >like
butter). A little careful study will show you how the assembly >disconnects
from the regulator, and the replacement motor comes with >nut-and-bolt sets to
secure it where the rivets were. Shove a block of >wood in there to guard
against having the window glass suddenly fall >after the motor's removed.

[SNIP]

>
>Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.
>101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

Both of the front windows on my 1965 98 had the rivets fall out!!!

Can you just buy some bolts and locktite the nut on???

Can you buy just the bolts from a dealer/parts store?? Are they any
different from just going to the hardware store?


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 09:34:55 -0400
Subject: Re: "Y" and "9" 307's

     Yes, all of the 307's (Y's and 9's) use hydraulic roller lifters from
     '85-up.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: "Y" and "9" 307's Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/22/97 8:49 PM

Tom,  Does that series engine really use roller lifters?  I owned one and
never heard that before.  Escape442@aol.com


------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:47:56 -0400
Subject: Electronics 101, was: Yippee!!

The strange thing was, when I tested the voltage output of
>resistance wire with the key in the "on" position, it tested at 12v -- with a
>half dead battery.  Then after I replaced it with a 10 gauge wire, it tested
>the same.

You're reading open circuit voltage.  If the car was running (or trying)
you'd probably see more like 10V.  Same goes for measuring the battery.  If
you turn the lights on and measure the battery voltage, it's gonna show a
lower voltage, say 12.2V, for argument's sake.  If you leave the lights on
but pull the battery cable, you'll see the battery jump back up to its open
circuit voltage, say 12.6V or so.  Until the curcuit is closed (or grounded,
in most cases) you'll see full voltage across the entire circuit.  There
will be no voltage drops across the various resistances along the way.  Once
the circuit is closed and activated, you'll see decreasing voltage presences
(and drops) throughout the circuit.  Just a quick review of basic electrical
theory.


      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 17:43:09 -0400
Subject: 307-Y to 307-9 part no's.  (WAS re: more 307)

I knew I'd kept this around for a reason!
Courtesy of Ed Atlee/Tom Lentz (timeframe:  early 1996):

> Long Duration cam shaft 				22519934
> High Rate Valve springs				22510372
> Harmonic Balancer					417142
> Rochester 4MV carb					17083553
> Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner Assy.		25042690
> Intermediate Exhaust Pipe				22516113
> Muffler and Tailpipe Right				22526204
> Muffler and Tailpipe Left				22526205

Also noted was 3.73 rear and a shift kit in the tranny(?).

I don't know if the part #'s are correct or not.  I decided not to
pursue making my Salon into a 442 - I'd rather it simply be
a very nice Salon with a 403.  :)

Hope it helps.

Bruce D. Brumm
bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com

'86 Cutlass Salon, 307-Y, T-Tops, black, gauges, power everything, etc.
'84 Cutlass Supreme, 307-Y, Blue, rusty, trusty, FORSALECHEAP!  $500.00 (Good
wheels, new rubber, etc.)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 09:34:52 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: more 307

     I have one or two ideas that you may try to check out for the oil
     consumption.

     First, I have heard (but never seen it myself) that it's possible for
     the intake manifold gasket to fail in such a way that oil is sucked up
     from the valley into the intake runners.  Unlikely, but a possibility.

     I would check the PCV system.  Replace the PCV valve and the crankcase
     breather filter.  On a 260 that I used to own, the thermostatic air
     cleaner control went bad.  That's the little unit that opens the heat
     riser and plugs off the rest of the air cleaner snorkel.  At speed,
     the engine was starving for air so it started sucking it in from the
     crankcase through the breather and through the PCV valve, along with
     oil.  I never saw any smoke.  Even if the thermostatic air cleaner
     appears good, you can check for other PCV system problems by pulling
     the PCV valve, plugging the hose to the carb, and removing the tube
     that goes from the crankcase breather filter to the air filter
     housing.  Drive for a few hundred miles like this and see if anything
     changes.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:06:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Finnally I found My Peers......

I own a 86
>Cutlass Supreme with a  307 in it. I want to either rebiuld my stock engine
>or find a suitable sub. My biggest problem is the ECM and the fact that I
>have to stay emission legal.

First off, great choice on cars, and welcome to the list.  We have a problem
in that you want to stay emissions legal.  This limits options, but doesn't
eliminate them.  You can always go with a high flowing catalytic converter,
high flowing dual exhaust, air filter element, aftermarket plugs, wires, and
coil, ~possibly~ a powerchip, depending on how strictly you want to adhere
to the laws.  Does the '86 have the smog pump going to the exhaust manifolds
(The AIR system)  It seems to me GM gave up on it somewhere along the
line...  You can get headers for it, and tap fittings for the air lines and
the O2 sensor into the tubes.  There are intakes available that actually are
more emissions efficient then stock.  My Offy dual port was one example,
albeit expensive.  If you want to milk every ounce of power out of it, you
could splurge for roller tipped rockers (I think Comp Cams has those for
around $260 or something)  You can always go with a inproved oil, perhaps a
synthetic blend, to reduce internal friction.  (getting ~really~ picky here,
but esoterically speaking, every little bit helps.)  Jumping up to a higher
(numerically) rear end ratio will increase performance as well (at the
expense of top speed.)  You can always do an overhaul and balance and
blueprint the assy. and do a mild port job on the heads (anyone have ideas
on how headporting will affect emissions???)  Forged pistons would be
recommended if you plan on doing the next idea ***Nitrous***  The laughing
gas...  As we ~all~ laugh at those ch*vy grilles  we see in the mirror... :)
Let's see...  What else can you do. Outside Air Induction is a big plus.
Coupled with a dual snorkel air cleaner and high flowing filter element, its
a rather potent item.  You can go with a shift kit it the tranny for those
neck snapping shifts, if you like.  Different rearend suspension setups
allow for various U-joint angles for better tire planting during take-off
(less spinnage -- not Popeye food, either:)  Air bags can help there, too.
Don't mess with drag shocks, or electric water pumps, or cutting the AC
belt, etc. 'cuz it's an Olds, and you drive it on the street, and your car
deserves keeping all the luxuries it has (i.e. ride comfort...)  You won't
want to jeapordize cooling effiency by switching to a smaller fan, either,
most likely.  You might need to upgrade to a seven blade clutch fan, if it
doesn't already have one.  The fuel supply can possibly stand some
upgrading.  Maybe a high volume fuel pump?  You might want to send your carb
to Brad Urban's carb shop (I think that's the right name, someone on the
list can help with the address...?)  He'll wring out every ounce of
horsepower that carb can allow, and still keep your emissions in check (I
hear).  It sounds like he does really fantastic work.

I'm sure there are more things we could do here, but I'm running out of gas
myself, so I'll end the list with that.  I've kinda orderred them from cheap
to steep, but I know I've varied from that in places.  Any one of these can
help, but some often go hand in hand.  If your pocket is deep enough and you
can do ~all~ of these things, you'll ~definately~ have one really mean
Rocket.  Oh, and for power chips:  I remember reading an article a while
back about a prom-pack, that switches between five different power chip
combinations.  One for stock, one for mileage, one for 1/4 mile, one for
nitrous, and one for security, or something like that.  All switched with a
key on the dash somewhere.  Spendy setup, but definate possibilities.

Good luck, and let us know how the project goes!  Later...



      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:18:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 76 Cutlass S Dakotan  & Rockit Doors

Reminds me of a Buick Regal I saw at the junque yarde this weekend.  "MT
Westerner" edition, with a "Northern Ford" dealer emblem on the trunk.  The
irony made me laugh.

I was there to pick up a pair of doors for the Rockit.  I'd scoped them out
earlier, and found another Regal with ~no~ cracks in front of the mirrors.
Sooooo, I spent an hour yanking off the pass. door, (and getting the window
down...) and then switched sides.  The driver's door wouldn't open far
enough because of the neighboring car, but then I noticed the door was
dented anyway.  Someone had stood on the mirror, perhaps, and the mounting
area was all bent up.  Bummer.  Sooooo, being 5:30 and all, I grabbed my
~one~ good door, and set out to leave.  While I was trying to find a logical
way to carry this thing to the office (it ~is~ heavy, ya know, and rather
awkward...) I turned it over and noticed a nice solid (?) line of rust all
the way across the bottom seam.  Upon further inspection, I determined that
the doorskin was seperated from the shell due to all this rust.  Sooooooo,
it's still there, and I'm still doorless.  (well, uncracked doorless...)
I'm still not sure which is worse, rust there, or cracks.  I'm not as eager
to part with my $$$ on 'em yet, that's for sure.  I did manage to find a
license plate pocket for mine (which was left in four or five pieces after
the wreck) and snagged a "Dio" blacklight poster that I noticed in the car
blocking the Regal's driver's door, so it's not a complete loss...  Kindof a
cool poster, too :)

Later....


      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:22:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Bodywork

>        You can make yourself a pretty effective repair...I hope this helps
you out.

Yes, thanks!

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:39:56 -0400
Subject: Need part for bucket seat...

I bought a set of bucket seats out of a '69 Cutlass yesterday.  They are in
primo condition, except for a few little things.  On my passenger seat, the
piece of metal that slides up the back (underneath the seat back) to latch
the seat back is busted.  It looked like it was just bent, but when I took it
off to straighten it, I found out that it was broken down inside the plastic
sleeve.  Does anyone have a spare one of these lying around that they'd
be willing to sell cheap?  Like maybe $5 or $10 bucks?  I also need a pair
of good buttons.  The one on my passenger seat is broken, and the one on
my driver seat is peeling.  Thanks...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:46:45 -0400
Subject: 394 for sale...

	Sorry to post this to the list guys, but I can't find Eskos e-mail
address anywhere, and he has'nt posted in a couple days.
	
	Anyway, for him and anybody else out there interested in a 394 V8
core motor (thats a long-block with intake, valve covers, ex. manifolds,
etc) the guy at the yard quoted me ~$250 (He must be the cheap guy...they
guy I asked before told me $350.  I'll just have to make sure I go there
when the cheap guy is working).  He said something like "394 Olds?  thats
an old bird...that'll run ya about $250..."  Kind of a weird guy.  Anyway,
if you or anybody else is still interested, just let me know, I'm always
glad to help.
	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:53:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Finnally I found My Peers......(non-smog)



------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 18:53:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Finnally I found My Peers......(non-smog)

Hey how about a non-smog legal 307?  Nobody ever attempts to explain
what you could do with just a 307 without a computer or catalytic
converter on it.  Come on lets hear it guys!!  Not everyone worrys
about staying smog-legal.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD 307 Y

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:01:14 -0400
Subject: Cotter pin reuse

>DO NOT reuse the cotter pin.

Why not?  I sometimes do...
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:14:35 -0400
Subject: 1971 350 engine paint

I Don't want to spend nine-bucks a can for Fusick paint... anybody got a
brand name and a color code for me for gold 350 engine paint?
				David Nye
				'71 Cutlass Droptop

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:17:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear main seal 455

>Make sure the seal angle "\" is facing toward the motor. If not it
>will leak.  Also I wouldn't do any trimming on it

Don't trim it.  And when you install it, turn it a little in the channel it
goes in so one side sticks up about 1/4" above the surface of the block.
Install the other half of the seal in the cap in the same manner.  This
makes two halves of the seal out of alignment with the surfaces of the block
and cap, resulting in a lesser chance of oil leaking out there.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:24:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts for sale -Reply

John,
That's pretty low. Okay, I got one for you to look at. Now, what are you going
 to comment about? I'll bring it Thursday evening.

Art

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:19:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?

- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Engine Refresh Options?
> Date: Monday, February 24, 1997 2:32 AM
>
> At 12:29 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >a two piece rear main can be changed w/o removing the crank, the factory
> >manual shows the proceedure. after removing the oil pan, you drop the
> >rear main cap and using special tool push the seal out and feed another
> >in. this is assuming you have a factory type rope seal. it can be done.
> >it's no fun!!!   doug, '67 4-4-2
> >
> >
> Doug,
>
> Thanks for the passing that along.  I was trying to get a mental picture
of
> the possible proceedure, and the closest I could come was something like
> your description.  I don't think I ever thought about doing it that way
> however, as getting oil pans off with the engine in the car can be a full
> fledged trip, very few cars allow for this, to be done, handily
>
> The Wiz
> I doubt that many rear seals are changed that way anymore. Like you said
on a lot of cars its about as easy to pull the engine as it is to get the
pan off. Many engines now use a 1 piece seal that goes in from the rear
makeing pulling the pan unnessary.  I also  think there was lots more seal
failures in ther old days. Seals have come a long way in the last few years
and from what I have read they are working on some that are even better
that will be out soon.
Walter
>

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:26:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Hey, anything Olds is better than nothin'

>De gustibus non disputandem est.
>
>Bob Handren

OK, Bob, I'm guessing...

This guy (man, fellow, whatever) is not disagreeing.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Joe Fauzio <galusha@postoffice.ptd.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:33:59 -0400
Subject: Kurt

Kurt, I lost all my email messages so I don't have your email addrress
anymore. Please send it to me. Thanks.
To the rest of the gang, Sorry for this non Olds post.

Joe

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:47:44 -0400
Subject: Re: more 307

- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: more 307
> Date: Monday, February 24, 1997 11:01 AM
>
> At 09:48 AM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Wiz,
> Some of the old drag racers would buy a new block and before machineing
it for the race car they would run it in their street vehicle to " season "
the casting. They claimed that they got many more runs on the block before
it lost the ring seal when they did this. Maybe this complemented the
ageing process The Wiz mentioned.

> In the old days (the very old days), they would put the castings out to
cure
> for months.  This process is, in fact, a stress relief; which is not
> accomplished by other means (usually heat treat).  Curiosity demands that
I
> discern whether these motor changes were warranty work?
>
> It's always better to do it right the frist time.
>
> Thanks for the data,
>
> The Wiz
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:21:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Calais steering

Jim,
   The answer to your problems is the TIRES!!!!!
I know that this may sound wierd but the wider the tires the longer
the turning radius becomes on any certain vehicle and 215's are quite
wide for this car. I have a 87 calais and it has 185's but they are
13", my sister has a 90 with 14" rims and I will find out from her
what the width is on them, though it may be different from stock on
yours you can have an idea of where to go for better radius

Todd Wallin
twallin@grant.tds.net

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 20:26:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding

Hi John
   I have an Olds parts business and I deal in old Olds parts. I don't know
if I can find these door for you but I will make some phone call and advise
you

My Business


E & G Automotive
P.O. Box 16095
Rumford, R.I. 02916-0697

1-401-435-7139

I'm Everett Horton

I will e-mail you, I kept your private address

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:33:02 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 problem history

Pat,
   OK, simple test to solve all the quess work, don't know why I
didn't think of this last night.  Do another compression test but
this time do the test and write down the results, remember to let it
"pump up 3 times" then do the test again but this time squirt some
oil in through the spark plug hole.  If the compression rises, IT'S
RINGS.  Your initial test of 80psi is LOW, tri this if it works , and
I believe it will it will tell you for sure if it is the rings.

Todd Wallin
twallin@grant.tds.net

------------------------------

From: Joe Fauzio <galusha@postoffice.ptd.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 20:37:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding

At 08:26 PM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi John
>   I have an Olds parts business and I deal in old Olds parts. I don't know
>if I can find these door for you but I will make some phone call and advise
>you
>
>My Business
>
>
>E & G Automotive
>P.O. Box 16095
>Rumford, R.I. 02916-0697
>
>1-401-435-7139
>
>I'm Everett Horton
>
>I will e-mail you, I kept your private address
>
>
>Do you have a catalog that we could get???

Joe 71 442

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey King <jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 20:32:56 -0400
Subject: 64 4-4-2 info please

Ok kids, here's the deal...

I found a '64 Olds 442 over the weekend.  It has (1)20,000 miles on
it according to the odometer.  It's in pretty good shape.  Probably
#4 condition.  2 door hardtop, buckets, console, factory tach,
factory 4 speed, dual snorkle(?) aircleaner, etc.  However, it seems
to be based on an F-85 as opposed to the Cutlass.  It has F-85 badges
on the front and the steering wheel, along with 442 emblems on the
front fenders.

The car looks to be very original.  Everything is worn evenly.  That
is to say, no shiny emblems on dull fenders and such.  Seats are a
little threadbare, but not torn up.  No aftermarket add-ons or
amature "customizing" that I can see.  Body is straight, but right-
front fender appears to have been repaired at some time.  No rust
that I can see (I didn't crawl under it or anything).

My question is... does it sound like an real 442 to you experts out
there?  For some reason, the flyer that went with the car has it
listed as a " '64 F-85 4-speed " and not a 442.  I copied the S/N,
but forgot to bring it into work with me.  Seemed to me it had
3 numbers, then the letter "H", then a 6 digit number.

They were asking $3750 for the car.  Opinions anyone???

Jeff King ('61 Olds Super 88)

- --
=====================================================================
Jeffrey W. King (N5PNU)     Internet: -----> jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
Route 1, Box 290            Internet/packet:   n5pnu@dfwgate.ampr.org
Krum, TX. 76249             Packet:    N5PNU @ N5AUX.#DFW.TX.USA.NOAM
214-956-6031 (work)         214-597-1021 (pager)
817-482-3446 (home)         If none of the above works:    HEY YOU!!!
=====================================================================
              http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
=====================================================================

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 15:36:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Finnally I found My Peers......(non-smog)

Joe,
   Be happy to talk to you about the no-smog set up, lots of ideas
and info here.  Also where in the hell did you get a RWD Calais I
WANT ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Todd Wallin
twallin@grant.tds.net

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 23:55:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Yippee!!

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:
>
> ...I saw printed on it:  "Resistor wire - do not cut".

Ahhh!  The old "hidden resistor wire trick".  Glad you finally found it.
In all probability, the reason why the HEI was doing the meltdown was due
to its internal votage regulator.  Since the input voltage was low, the
regulator tried to make up the deficit by drawing more currrent.  Since
the wire was resistive, the additional current caused it (and the HEI
who was TRYING to operate correctly) to overheat.

> The strange thing was, when I tested the voltage output of resistance
> wire with the key in the "on" position, it tested at 12v -- with a
> half dead battery.  Then after I replaced it with a 10 gauge wire, it
> tested the same.

As Charlie just pointed out, if you measure between ground and an open
wire, you'll read the battery voltage.  Even if you hooked a 10,000 ohm
resistor to the battery plus and measured the voltage to the negative,
you'll still read the full battery voltage.  The "open" between any
unconnected lead and ground, being of infinite resistance, will have the
entire supply voltage felt across it.

> But oh well.  It works now -- that's all that matters.

Aye!

> Oh, BTW... I did end up buying the cheapo RadioShack multimeter, and
> I'm quite satisfied with it.  I take back everything I said about
> RadioShack electronics.

See.  Told ya!  NNnNN.

> I still won't budge on thier cheapo auto stereo equipment,though... ;)
> It's compareable to Audiovox or Kraco in quality, and Kenwood or Alpine
> in price.

No argument on the AUTO stuff.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 20:52:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 57 olds 88 part

57 Olds by dozens in Olds salvage yord in Soldier Kansas

Halls Olsmobile Salvage
1-913-924-3748

Referred to you by Everett Horton of E&G Automotive

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 20:57:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear main seals

- ----------
> From: BobH592058@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rear main seals
> Date: Monday, February 24, 1997 2:47 PM
>
>
>
> KD and others make a tool for this.  It consists of a spiral cut metal
> flexible rod (for want of a better description).  You "screw" this an
inch or
> more into the rope seal trapped in the block.  You can then pull the seal
out
> with the attached handle. Rotating the crank is probably still a very
good
> idea.
>
> The F*rd rear seal is not one piece.  The Olds engine is not designed to
> accept a one piece seal as there is no dimension smaller or equal to the
> crank main bearing dimension.  It is superior to the rope.  The original
> description of the contents of the gasket set would seem to indicate that
> both were provided.  I believe that several others have commented that
this
> is now common practice.
>
> Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
> '67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
> Oviedo, FL
>
> Handren Associates, Inc.
> FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
> Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
> (407)365-6385
 I remember those tools now. We called them pigs tails. You are also
correct in saying that the one piece seal is smaller than the flywheel
flange. So the 2 piece 460 seal would have to be the one they are refering
to.
Walter

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 21:01:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear main seal 455

- ----------
> From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Rear main seal 455
> Date: Monday, February 24, 1997 5:17 PM
>
> >Make sure the seal angle "\" is facing toward the motor. If not it
> >will leak.  Also I wouldn't do any trimming on it
>
 Don't trim it.
 I was refering to the rope seal when I said it had to be trimmed. They
come quite a bit too long. The neoprene seal should not be trimmed.>
- -Walter

> Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
> dpauliso@gate.net
>
>

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 21:08:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Need part for bucket seat...

At 06:39 PM 2/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I bought a set of bucket seats out of a '69 Cutlass yesterday.  They are in
>primo condition, except for a few little things.  On my passenger seat, the
>piece of metal that slides up the back (underneath the seat back) to latch
>the seat back is busted.  It looked like it was just bent, but when I took it
>off to straighten it, I found out that it was broken down inside the plastic
>sleeve.  Does anyone have a spare one of these lying around that they'd
>be willing to sell cheap?  Like maybe $5 or $10 bucks?  I also need a pair
>of good buttons.  The one on my passenger seat is broken, and the one on
>my driver seat is peeling.  Thanks...
>
>-Blaine
>
>
Blaine,

        I found one for you if your interested. $10.00 is fine. This one
looks almost new. If you want it send a check for the $10.00 and $3.00
shipping to:

Jim Chermack
1132 Chatmoss Drive
Virginia BEach, VA 23464

Thanks,

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #534
********************************
