To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #578


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 26 March 1997      Volume 01 : Number 578

Re: 3.73 speedometer gear
54' 88 for sale
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: 1979 455
Re: turn signal lever repl. (long)
qtr panel for sale
Re: Loose tilt steering wheel
IRC INFO
Re: New Member
Re: Information wanted!
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: rear window
Some new tech tips (well, _I've_ just discovered them...)
Repeat messages (non Olds)
Tach in '70-ish Olds
Re:SodaBlasting
some information about IRC (non Olds)
Re: Good Welder
Re: turn signal lever repl.
Re: Loose tilt steering wheel
(non-olds) Try IRC.
Re: Good Welder
Literature
Re: Tachometer question
Re: Good Welder
Re: turn signal lever repl.
Re: Tachometer question
307 V8 Smoke
Re:Free vista cruier body shell
Re: IRC INFO
3-spd column shifters, (kind of N/O)
Which wheels are the right wheels??
Spark plug Q's
6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350
56 Olds-Electric Wiper Motor
Re: Loose tilt steering wheel
Re: Which wheels are the right wheels??
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Re: Shift kit
Re: Loose tilt steering wheel
[Toro] '66 vacuum tank
Re: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350
Halls trip
Re: [Toro] 70 SX for sale
Bad Rings
Re: Shift kit
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
1964 olds 98 cs
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Re: Good Welder
Re: Bad Rings
Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: DMR67442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:02:14 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.73 speedometer gear

chevy ss monte carlos used 3.73 gears. there is only two differant size gears
in diameter. one is the size of a nickle the other about a half dollar. there
arer many different teeth for each size. gm also used an adapter like 1.13 to
1 on older cars but i have not seen this for somr time. I would guess adding
1 more tooth would keep the speedo accurate. chevy parts man should have a
list. I think 373s came with turbo 350s and used the small gear .   hope this
helps

------------------------------

From: kdporter <kdporter@midwest.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:13:00 -0400
Subject: 54' 88 for sale

- --
A friend has a 54 88 2 door for sale.The car is a Texas car very little
rust,the car was a 324 it now has a 394 he started on a street rod or
custom look but did not finish,i think that he still has all the
original parts no major cutting done. I have not seen the car.He also
said he had some multible carb. intakes and a lot of extra parts. The
car is in the St.louis area.
His name and phone number is
Jason Cadell
{314}947-4149


Ken porter
70'rallye 350
kdporter@midwest.net

------------------------------

From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:08:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

The air cleaner on my fathers 69 442 is red, I know that this is correct being
that the air cleaner is from his original 69 442 that he bought new.  The
assembly has not been repaintd, it was in storage at the local olds dealer
from 76 to 95 when my father traded a TV for it.  Our 69 Cutlass's air cleaner
is black.


Robb Yasczak  vjtd@grove.iup.edu

1969 442
1969 Cutlass Convertible
1976 442
1985 Cutlass Supreme
1987 Cutlass Salon (T-tops)

------------------------------

From: DMR67442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:10:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 1979 455

same chasis no computer in 79 . berijak olds in needahm mass has a 455 tri
power
ina 83.  a/c and noa/c is the big diff.

------------------------------

From: DMR67442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:20:39 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal lever repl. (long)

a peace of fine wire tied around the plug and pulled up through gentley. make
sure the snake wire is flat so it does not catch on some thing.

it is tricky but it works   use picture wire or mechanics wire.   if it is a
tilt colum some times moving the tilt helps

------------------------------

From: Steven Karlecke <SDKAR@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:15:08 -0400
Subject: qtr panel for sale

Hello,

I was told to advertise any olds parts here.  I have a 70 Cutlass
Convertible that I am fixing up.  I bought 2 new qtr skins but only used the
driver side.  I have the passenger side, it is a reproductiion, NOT GM, but
I found the driver side to fit pretty good.  If anyone is interested in the
passenger side, it is brand new.  I would like to get $75 for it.  I paid
close to $200 for it.  I live in South Florida.  If anyone is interested,
please call me at (561) 792-9701 or E-mail me at sdkar@worldnet.att.net


Steve

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:44:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel

I've also seen similiar problems on these era of cars, and, in addition
to the sugggestions of the others, I would like to add:
If This is Left unfixed, it can/has (to lots of people I know)
cause lots of more expensive damage to your stearing column all for a
couple of loose bolts.  It can be done by yourself without any pullers,
but that's very hard.  The correct pullers are also reasonably easy to
find.  It's the patience and delicateness to work on a stearing column
that's the trick.  The procedure took me about 1/2 a day (well, working
time 1/2 a day, all weekend elapsed time).


EA~

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, Aaron D Eoff wrote:

> My tilt steering wheel column is very loose. In a locked position it can be
> moved side to side, up and down, sort of wobbly. IS there an internal joint
> that has to be replaced or tightened? I referenced the 77 Olds Service
> manual but can't find any specific help.
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:52:50 -0400
Subject: IRC INFO

You can join any DALNET server and join ªoldsmobile.  That is all there
is to it.  If there is nobody arround, the channel will be created for
you.  This is a registered channel and is controlled by channelserv.  I
usually join from St. Louis, Phoenix or Skypoint and have very little
problem with "lagging".

- -Dan

> IF you guys want some participation, or at least someone to try it you need
> to provide more information on what Dalnet server you are on.
>
> I have used irc and do enjoy it if a "normal" channel can be found.
>
> I'm in Wisconsin and would like to find out about others heading for Lansing
> like I am for the 100th.
>
> Please post the info before Wed night or quit wondering why nobody shows
up...

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 00:28:24 -0400
Subject: Re: New Member

At 07:34 AM 3/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>
>>Just a short note to introduce my self, my name is John Oder and I just
>>picked up a 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX with the W-32 455 Automatic with
>[snip]
>>moldings and a little showing behind the front wheel.  I am sure as I
>>progress with this I will have plenty of questions.
>
>Welcome, John!
>
>Sounds like you've got a nice restoration project there. We've got a few SX
>owners on the list (I've got a non-W-32 1970 SX myself), so you're in good
>company.
(snip)

Hi John

        My name is Jim Chermack. I'd like to wecome you to the list and
inform you I have a 70 SX W-32 car with OAI. We had a discussion here before
about these cars and if I remember right we figured there were about 7100
SX's made in 70 and 1025 of them were W-32's You have a rare car.  Let me
know if there's some information that you would like about these cars.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 00:47:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Information wanted!

At 04:34 PM 3/24/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi!
>My name is David Biermann and I am subscribed to "Journey with Olds". I want
>information about an 1964 Dynamic 88 Convertible related to tune up specs
>and information for odering new brake drums . Any information would be
>helpful. You can contact me at (847)-546-6913 or at my email adress
>alienone@ix.netcom.com.
>                Thank you very much!
>
>
David

        Please let me know what size engine your car has and I'll get you
the tune up specs.
One of the only places I know that you may find these are a place called
Oldsmobile USA in Manassas Virginia. They're number is (703)335-1935.
Hope this helps you.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 00:51:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

At 04:47 PM 3/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Thomas Stoner wrote:
>
>> The air cleaner assembly on my 1968 442 was black.  Therefore, I'd
>> say that it should be a really dark shade of orange to be anywhere
>> near correct.  ;-)
>
>Funny.  My air cleaner assembly is a dark fire engine red.  Hmmmmm.
>
>Chris Sparks
>68 442


Hey Guys

        Just to get my two cents in. The correct color for ALL 4bbl 442's
(non W-machines) is an Orange/Red. W cars had a black base and a chrome lid,
and 2bbl 400 442's had a black air cleaner that was identical to the one
used on 2bbl small block cars.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 00:52:13 -0400
Subject: Re: rear window

>Has anyone done any rust repair work around the rear window?  My '67
>442
>has bad damage around the mounting surface for the glass, and I'm
>looking
>for any tips from someone who has experience with this.

If anyone has done work like this, I'd be interested in your experiences,
too.  My rear window needs a little repair.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 01:33:38 -0400
Subject: Some new tech tips (well, _I've_ just discovered them...)

While getting my latest project running, I came across solutions to problems
I created that I thought I'd share:

1) Removing Stubborn Vacuum Lines: Did you ever have trouble getting off
vacuum lines and PCV hoses, especially when they've gotten old and brittle?
Or how about vacuum lines from accessories on older Oldses? (you Toro folks
would know what I'm talking about) The solution: a pair of spark-plug wire
pliers, with the rubbery plastic-coated jaws that grab the middle of the
boot, also work great at grabbing even the smallest of vacuum lines. Just
squeeze over the line, twist back and forth a bit, and gently pull off. I
got the 30-year old vacuum line (hard as a rock) off the carb of my Toro the
other day with no trouble using this method.

2) One-step Sparkplug Gapping: I saw that handy tool in Eastman's catalog
for gapping sparkplugs, where you put the plug in a fixture, squeeze the
handle, and voila, a perfectly gapped plug. You can improvise a similar
setup, however, using a pair of pliers and a feeler gauge. Slip open the
pliers to their "wide" setting, and while holding a .022" feeler gauge in
the gap, use the pliers to squeeze down the gap (I put one jaw on the "-"
tang, and the other on the metal part of the body, just where the ceramic
insulator protrudes). When you release the pliers, the "tang" will spring
back to the proper gap of .030" (adjust to suit your requirements; you may
have to experiment with the difference between the desired gap and the size
feeler guage used, if your sparkplugs are more or less springy)

3) Lost Throttle Linkage Retainer: If you (like somebody I know...) removed
your carb, only to have the spring-clip that held the throttle-cable onto
the car fly off into space, a simple and effective replacement is at hand.
Just cut a short length of vacuum hose (about 1/4") and slip it over the
linkage stud on the throttle arm.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 03:57:26 -0400
Subject: Repeat messages (non Olds)

My formal (well, OK, not quite ~that~ good:) apologies to all on the
digest listing.  And my thanks to everyone who clued me in to the fact that
things weren't going to the right place (I think ~everyone~ let me know...
:)  Between the old "pine" assuming things, and me not noticing what it
was assuming, everyone seemed to be hearing alot from me.  I'm hoping I
have that part figured out now.  Someday I'll get my computer's network
protocols all straightened out, and get back to EuDorka and normal
internet life again....  (Hopefully!)

Anyway, thanks all for pointing out the problems.  No news for the day on
the Olds front.

Later...

- ---Charley Buehner

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 04:13:02 -0400
Subject: Tach in '70-ish Olds

Chris (and others) you might check out a Buick unit.  I'm using the
Tick-Tock-Tach in my GS, and it's the same diam. and style as the stock
clocks and the stock tachs were.  You'd have to mount it with the Olds
housing, but I'd imagine the whole thing would be rather simple.  Year One
wants $129 for theirs.  I'd imagine it'd work great.

- --Charley Buehner

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 06:20:10 -0400
Subject: Re:SodaBlasting

Last time I visited my dentist, he used that stuff to clean my teeth.

He had a mini sized "sand blaster" using sodium bicarbonate.

Tasted like mineral water and cleaned teeth shiny. A lot of dust entered
my nose and caused itching in there.

The dentist said that this material won't harm my teeth.

I suppose that sodium bicarbonate is a lot "softer" than ordinary sand
or glass marbles. I would use it in unmodified unit. Be aware of the
dust, it makes You search for a bourbon....... :).

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 07:38:57 -0400
Subject: some information about IRC (non Olds)

I wrote some fact over the IRC because there has been so many information
which has not always been correct.


The IRC (Internet Relay Chat) is a PUBLIC forum for people
who want to discuss about something.

Basically the IRC supports written messages but it is possible
to send pictures and voice (speech).

Also, the IRC offers means to private chats for those who want to
hide behind the corner for a while.

The IRC network itself is a chain of IRC servers connected together.
When You connect to any of these servers You access them all. There
is no difference (in logical means) which server You connect into. All
servers will receive Your messages and Your messages are sent to every
server in the chain.

To avoid IRC becoming too public, the forum is divided into categories.
The gategories are named channels. You can /join and /part a channel. It is
possible to /join several channels simultaneously. In mIRC You have a window
for each channel that You have /joined.

When You /join a channel, the entire IRC network is searched for it. If found,
the channel is informed that You popped in and You can start reading and
sending messages to/from that channel. (Try /join ªaustralia for fun :) )

If there was not a channel with the name You gave in Your /join command, then
a new channel is formed. This is how channels get started. A channel dies
when there is no more participants in that channel.

So, don't try to log in different IRC servers, You just get the same channels
everywhere. It is best to log in a nearby server and not the one at the
opposite side of the globe.

Some info on IRC:

The IRC was developed in Finland at Oulu-university as a student project. (it
has gone far after that).

The oldest continuously existing channel is ª42. (It's invite only and
strictly restricted to Finnish members only, sorry about that :( )

If You want help, try channel ªirchelp.

You will soon notice that most of the IRC traffic occurs at the morning (USA
local time). That's when all the 10...16 year old Finnish freaks leave school
and start the "real work".

I like IRC, it is a very convenient way to discuss over continents. And it is
a very nice way to get familiar with new cultures.

If You have any problems in configuring Your IRC, please throw me a message
and I'll try to solve it. (We have some 50 IRC experts here to ask for).

The reason why You have not seen me in Your ªoldsmobile channel is that it's
2am here when You guys get started.


- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 06:26:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder

Wiz wrote:

> Get a welder and learn.  I would suggest a MIG as being the best for amateur
> sheetmetal, but they are a bit more costly than the usual stick welding buzz
> box.

I agree. It is a LOT easier to do with a MIG than anything else. Although I
prefer the gas because I'm used to "solder" things. But when You have a thin
metal sheet the MIG would be my choice too because the sheet stays cooler and
does not "dance" so much afterwards.

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 08:52:46 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal lever repl.

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:13:10 -0400 PHartlieb@aol.com writes:
>In a message dated 97-03-25 11:36:16 EST, you write:
>
>> I am puzzeled on how to fish the wiring down
>>  the column. Has anyone ever done this? Whats the trick??
>
>I had to do that when I installed the cruise on my '72.  I think I
>used a
>straightened coat hanger.
>
>Paul
>
I just pushed the wiring harness down the column. No special tool were
needed for ths, I just had to bend the connector 90 degrees to the
harness so all would flow smoothly.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 08:52:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:26:14 -0400 Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
writes:
>My tilt steering wheel column is very loose. In a locked position it
>can be
>moved side to side, up and down, sort of wobbly. IS there an internal
>joint
>that has to be replaced or tightened? I referenced the 77 Olds Service
>manual but can't find any specific help.
>
There are 4 torx screws inside the column. I have found that they loosen
up. It willl require a special tool to get to these screws. It's called a
steering wheel lockplate remover. although this tool is not "required" to
remove and re-install the lockplate, it sure makes it a LOT easier. It
runs about $20.00 at most automotive stores.
1. Remove steering wheel, using caution not to damage the horn circuit
2. use lock plate tool, push down lock plate and remove retaining ring. A
scribe works well for this step.
3. remove lock plate by sliding it off the column.
4. remove turn signal lever
5. pull turn signal cam up and out of the way
6. at this point, you should be able to see four torx head screws, two of
which are recessed a little deeper.
7. tighten these down
8. reverse procedure and re-install everything.
GOOD LUCK !!!!!

Katana72

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 08:51:10 -0400
Subject: (non-olds) Try IRC.

Good morning !

If You can, try IRC at ANY server. /join ªoldsmobile
I'll be there for one hour from now on !

- -
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <FBoerger@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 09:28:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder

Wiz wrote:

>This is just one of those dumb questions, has anyone ever used cored wire,
>and shielding gas; at the same time!

>If so, what did it do for the weld?

>The Wiz

On my little-bitty Lincoln, the hose sleeve and tip for gas is too small to
receive flux cored wire, so I don't think it would be too easy to try this.
However, in the old days, when DC welders were first coming online, some guys
would break the flux off of the outside of their welding rods, have some one
spray covering gas from a CO2 fire extenguisher, and have gas-covered welds
before MIG !  Kinda resourceful, huh ??

And Yes!, I do not how I ever got by without a wire welder.  Also, if you're
going to do car type general purpose repairs from sheet metal to say, 1/4",
don't get too hung up on duty cycle.  Your sheet metal work will not really
involve 5 minute beads, more like 2 second connect the dots type welding to
avoid warpage.

Frank Boerger//Heading for San Diego now.

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 09:36:00 -0400
Subject: Literature

     2 sources I've had luck with recently for Service Manuals (and other
literature) are:

1) We Got Your Book    914-624-8650

2) Auto Literature Shoppe 1-800-526-7099

I bought a 65 Service Manual from (1) and an 86 Service Manual from (2). Now
I have most of the books I need !!!

*************************************************************
John Pajak     "DR. OLDS"
Lexington Park, MD
Pajak_John%PAX1@MR.NAWCAD.NAVY.MIL

65 Delta 88
66 Toronado
69 Cutlass S
70 Cutlass S W31
70 442 W30 convert
72 442 W30 convert
72 Delta 88 convert
+ others

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 09:35:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

- --0__=qpbo7tT68x1cspwvBv0MWkhwukSZPUDnWWhtNrw4HMfKGod8seR47TKS
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII




Michael Baugher
03/26/97 08:35 AM

Where can you find a Sun Super Tach?



 (Embedded image
 moved to file:  jdnye@norfolk.infi.net
 PIC20495.PCX)   03/25/97 07:25 PM




Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Michael Baugher/MO/americancentury)
Subject:  Re: Tachometer question




I would like
>to have the convenience of a tach without the expense of the t-t-t.
>
>

I put a Sun Super Tach into both my '69 and '71 Cutlass. I just had the
dummy plate where the clock or tach would have gone. I simply removed
the back dummy plate (just 3 or 4 screws if I remember), cut out the
blank plate so that the tach would go in from the front, and screwed the
plate right back on. It holds the tach in place perfectly. A dummy plate
should be easy to find if you don't have one.
    David Nye
    '71 Cutlass Supreme Rag-Top



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- --0__=qpbo7tT68x1cspwvBv0MWkhwukSZPUDnWWhtNrw4HMfKGod8seR47TKS--

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 10:38:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder

Esko Ilola Wrote:

>MIG would be my choice too because the sheet stays cooler and does not
"dance" >so much afterwards.

What do you mean by "dance"

Thanks,
Ray
34467x

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 10:12:00 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal lever repl.

To all who replied to my post about r&r of the turn signal lever- Thanks!








=============================================================================
FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
         K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
         65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show
car)
         95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
         95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 09:57:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

- --0__=zjsKUxP4VsSp00SZ6bDZPRWnAVYZem1vkseVdQSGhC3DyXYOwJUV1QPx
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII




Michael Baugher
03/26/97 08:57 AM

Where can I find a Sun Super Tach?



 (Embedded image
 moved to file:  jdnye@norfolk.infi.net
 PIC25081.PCX)   03/25/97 07:25 PM




Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Michael Baugher/MO/americancentury)
Subject:  Re: Tachometer question




I would like
>to have the convenience of a tach without the expense of the t-t-t.
>
>

I put a Sun Super Tach into both my '69 and '71 Cutlass. I just had the
dummy plate where the clock or tach would have gone. I simply removed
the back dummy plate (just 3 or 4 screws if I remember), cut out the
blank plate so that the tach would go in from the front, and screwed the
plate right back on. It holds the tach in place perfectly. A dummy plate
should be easy to find if you don't have one.
    David Nye
    '71 Cutlass Supreme Rag-Top



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------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 12:01:18 -0400
Subject: 307 V8 Smoke

Does anybody have the 87 type Y 307 V8 motor in there Cutlass, I
have one in my 87 Cutlass Salon with 64k miles when I brought it.
Anyway, when I really punch it, there is a light smoke that comes
out of the tail pipe, not light as in color but thin I sould say,
the smoke is a black gray color. I was wondering is it the valve
guides wearing, and letting oil pass at high RPM'S 2500-3000 or
worst could it be the rings. The car idles perfect and burns about
1qt of oil every 3 weeks, I think that could be from the valve
cover gasket leaking. I was just thinking if I have to replace the
valve cover gasket I might as well get a head job and lifters with
new pushrods. The car has 77k miles on it now.
Has anybody else had this problem.. My 1986 Cutlass Brougham had
the same problem..


phouse@feith.com
Peter L. House  87 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 12:14:32 -0400
Subject: Re:Free vista cruier body shell

Lead: Free to good home.  1970-72 (I'm not sure) Vista cruiser body shell in
pretty decent shape. It's right here in Omaha.  Call Harold Oswald at home at
402-423-7325.  It has SS1 wheels that Harold is going to keep so bring your
own wheels.... The Oldoldsguy

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 04:27:56 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC INFO

     That's great, but I think he still has the same question I do.  What
     are the DALNET servers??  Where do I find a list of them?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: IRC INFO Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/25/97 8:20 PM


You can join any DALNET server and join ªoldsmobile.  That is all there
is to it.  If there is nobody arround, the channel will be created for
you.  This is a registered channel and is controlled by channelserv.  I
usually join from St. Louis, Phoenix or Skypoint and have very little
problem with "lagging".

- -Dan

> IF you guys want some participation, or at least someone to try it you need
> to provide more information on what Dalnet server you are on.
>
> I have used irc and do enjoy it if a "normal" channel can be found.
>
> I'm in Wisconsin and would like to find out about others heading for Lansing
 > like I am for the 100th. > > Please post the info before Wed night or
quit wondering why nobody shows up...


------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 12:33:25 -0400
Subject: 3-spd column shifters, (kind of N/O)

> >Ok.  What is "three on the tree" mean?
>
> Hmmm, since they haven't been put in cars for nearly 20 years, and they
> weren't that common for the 10 years prior to that, I can see how most
> people wouldn't be familiar with that setup these days.
>

It was kind of fun reading this, since I used to have a three on
tree, as did a couple of my friends in highschool (and this was only
1992...). I had a '63 Galaxie
with the three speed overdrive and a 352, and I can tell you first hand
that describing the shift pattern as "vague" was only too true.  With the
linkage as long as it was I doubt that it could -ever- have been described
as precise, but after 30 years it was just horrible.  There was at least
an inch and a half of free play in the shifter, and the throw was so long
speed shifting was impossible.  But still, it was kind of fun seeing the
look on peoples faces when I would move that thing all over the place
since it looked like I was trying hard to destroy my automatic shifter!
My friends had a 71 Pontiac Ventura, and a 59 Rambler, both with
inline sixes/ three on the tree manuals.  It was a lot of fun having thoes
cars when most of our friends were driving mom and dads Hondas.

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 11:51:53 -0400
Subject: Which wheels are the right wheels??

Michael Baugher
03/26/97 10:51 AM

Hello All...

I'm new to the arena, and have enjoyed reading the Olds related info.

I have a question regarding SSII wheels.  I have a 69 Cutlass S convertible
that currently has SSII wheels,
however, the center caps are knock-offs rather than the earlier assembled
type.  The size is 14X6.
What are these wheels from?  Are they from a later Olds?  Also, if I spot a
set of SSII's with the assembled
center cap (by assembled I mean screwed to the wheel), are they correct for
a '69?  Year One has a good
description of the different wheel types, but it really doesn't answer my
question.  Thanks!

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 04:50:44 -0400
Subject: Spark plug Q's

     It's about time for the spring "tune up" on my '84 H/O, which involves
     new plugs among other things.  I have a slight problem with
     detonation, and was thinking of trying a colder plug to see if it
     helps the problem.

     Other than a colder plug possibly fouling sooner (which probably won't
     be a problem since I change plugs frequently.  Why not since they're
     cheap and Olds plugs are so _easy_ to do!), are there any other
     drawbacks or potential problems to a colder plug?  Should I change the
     gap at all with a colder plug?  My car specifies a huge .080 gap.

     Also, how much colder should I try?  The car normally takes R46SX
     plugs (that's an AC part number, I've never had a problem with AC
     plugs and no other plug has ever worked better for me), so an R45SX
     would be one range colder if I remember my numbers correctly.  Is
     there such a creature as an R45SX?

     FYI: I was looking at the AC Rapidfire plugs in the store yesterday,
     and compared the Rapidfire plug the book said to use (ª5) with the
     original R46SX's.  The Rapidfire plug has _at_least_ 1/4" more thread
     on it, which would cause it to stick down into the combustion chamber.
      That sort of scares me, so I won't use them.  An extended tip to get
     the spark more towards the center of the combustion chamber is one
     thing, but extended threads?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com


------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 12:58:58 -0400
Subject: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350

> >The posting about installing a 6 speed ZF tranny in an Olds is good
> >info.  But isn't the 6 speed Richmond similar to the Doug Nash 5 speed?
> >As I remember the 5 speed was more or less a bolt in.  It used the same
> >trans. to bell housing bolt pattern as a T-10.  It seems that these will
> >bolt to the original bell housing as well.
>
> Gee, I don't know.  I thought that ZF was maybe a designation for the
> Richmond 6-speed.  I'd be very happy if you're right, that would make it a
> great potential trans for my Cutlass.  Right now I'm planning to put a
> manual in it since the floor pan is shot anyways, I won't feel guilty about
> putting another hole in it. :)  And I want to find a good overdrive.
>

The ZF was actually the six speed used in C4 Corvetts, and thats
why he used that Corvette bellhousing, etc.  ZFs, when you can find them
are expensive, and probibly not the best choice on the market anymore for
doing a swap.  They are not as strong as other trannys, and I've heard
they are really expensive to fix, and are difficult to adapt because
unlike most cars, they use that pull setup on the clutch, rather than the
push setup found on most cars to engage/disengage the clutch.

The Richmond gear 5 speed would be an exellent swap, but if I
remember correctly, it's not an overdrive transmission.  I think 5th is
1:1.  Richmond does have a 6 speed, that has a 1:1 5th, and an overdrive
6th, though.

Another good candidate would be Borg-Warners T-56 six speed (yup,
the one found in the Viper, G4 Camaros, and the new Corvette...very
beefy trans!!!). Fourth
gear is the 1:1 just like most other trannys, and the top two are *both*
overdrive (.74:1 5th, and .50:1 6th for OE trannys, and .80:1 5th, .62:1
6th for the aftermarket version).  A used OE tranny would be fairly
inexpensive, but unfortunatly, they come with a digital spedo setup, and a
Corvette style pull clutch.  The aftermarket version is pretty expensive,
but it comes with a gear driven spedo, and is designed to be used in 3rd
gen Camaros and Mustangs, so it uses the usual push style clutch.  The
aftermarket setup also comes with an adapter plate that was designed to
let you bolt it right up to a T-5 bellhousing, but by re-drilling the
holes, I don't see why you could'nt make it fit an Olds bellhousing,
making it an almost bolt up proposition.  The only thing you would have to
make sure of is that the input shaft is of the right length to work with
the clutch.

I've been doing a lot of research into this since I'm thinking
about going the 6 speed rout when I put a V8 in my daily driver this
summer...that is of course if I can come up with the cash!!

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:27:49 -0400
Subject: 56 Olds-Electric Wiper Motor

    A few days ago someone, I believe John Foster, had asked about an =
electric wiper motor to replace the vacuum one on a '56 Olds. I compared =
the electric motor from my '55 Chevy to the mounting plate on my '56 =
Olds (it IS a "98", if that makes a difference).
    The "standup" is different, but the spread of the mounting holes is =
the same. In other words, the Chevy electric motor could be made to work =
with a little modification. The Olds mounting plate has pads built up =
about 1/2" tall, which makes the drive plate on the motor not engage the =
driven part of the wiper transmission. If you would cut down these =
stand-up pads, which lets the motor drop down, it looks like the =
electric motor should work. ( I know this is about as clear as mud; I'll =
be glad to send a diagram if anyone wants to send me your mailing =
address). The good news is that the electric motor mounting holes line =
up perfectly with the mounting holes on the Olds.
    As someone has already said, the motor has its own switch, so all =
you need to do is take away the vacuum line and supply a hot wire (you =
would probably want it through the ignition switch). The same cable from =
the wiper switch on the dash should also turn the electric motor on and =
off.
    I have an "88" parts car I'll also look at the next time I go by =
where it's stored (about an hour away) and let you know if it does look =
different enough to cause a problem.

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:29:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel

Some of the tools that you might be wanting to use, like a steering
wheel-puller, are sometimes available for a low rental price at stores
like AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. so you don't necessarily have to buy them.

       Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:32:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Which wheels are the right wheels??

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:

> however, the center caps are knock-offs rather than the earlier assembled
> type.  The size is 14X6.
> What are these wheels from?  Are they from a later Olds?  Also, if I spot a

I believe they are from later SSII rims.

> set of SSII's with the assembled
> center cap (by assembled I mean screwed to the wheel), are they correct for
> a '69?  Year One has a good

Yes I think they are correct.  Make sure to have the bezel covers around
the
holes.  68 didn't have these, I think 69 did.

> description of the different wheel types, but it really doesn't answer my
> question.  Thanks!

No prob.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:55:02 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

> Does anybody have the 87 type Y 307 V8 motor in there Cutlass, I
> have one in my 87 Cutlass Salon with 64k miles when I brought it.
> Anyway, when I really punch it, there is a light smoke that comes
> out of the tail pipe, not light as in color but thin I sould say,
> the smoke is a black gray color.

Sounds like the carborator needs adjusting.  Blue smoke is oil, but
black, gray soot is either carbon or signs of a rich mixture.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD 307Y

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 07:45:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift kit

At 10:13 PM 3/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 07:14 PM 3/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>> I was just wondering if I put a shift kit on my '87 Cutlass, with its
>>>103,000 mile transmission, will blow anything up? Can this
>>>transmission
>>>handle it? And finally, will it chirp the tires like I heard it will?
>>
>I've installed shift kits in many cars that I've owned. The only thing you
>may want to think about doing is resealing the transmission. The reason
>behind this is a shift kit increases the line pressure in the trans and I
>have seen the internal seals just blow out after one good hard shift. The
>ability to chirp the tires is direct in relationship to the ammount of
>torque the engine puts out. My W-32 will smoke the tires (anti-spin) going
>into second and chirp them under hard excelleration going into third. I
>agree with Dave, make sure you change the fluid at regular intervals and
>it's a good idea to install a tranny oil cooler too.
>
>Jim Chermack
>70 Cutlass SX W-32
>72 442
>
>
>
    What would be involved if I resealed the transmission? Is this really
tough and expensive? What kind of tranny cooler would you recommend and
where would be the best place to install one? Thanks a lot for the info.!

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:54:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel

With a little ingenuity, you can use your steering wheel puller to depress
the lock-plate.  If you're interested in learning how, and you can't figure
it out, let me know and I'll help ya.  It's a little tedious, but it sure
beats paying $20 for a tool you'll only use once or twice.  Of course, if
you plan on doing this more than once, I'd recommend investing in the
Lock-Plate Depressor tool.

- ----------
> From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel
> Date: Wednesday, March 26, 1997 10:29 AM
>
> Some of the tools that you might be wanting to use, like a steering
> wheel-puller, are sometimes available for a low rental price at stores
> like AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. so you don't necessarily have to buy them.
>
>        Jim Townsend
>

------------------------------

From: jay <jay@buseng.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:58:39 -0400
Subject: [Toro] '66 vacuum tank

Does anyone have (or a lead on) a headlight vacuum tank for
a '66.  Apparently my cannisters are fine, but the (shared?)
reservoir is toast.

Car is in the shop now, so any prompt help would be appreciated.

Jay H


_|_|_|_| Jay Honeycutt
_|_|_|_| Business Engineering
_|_|_|_| 244 Madison Avenue ª182
_|_|_|_| New York, NY  10016
_|_|_|_| 212-749-3000
_|_|_|_| 212-927-3036 fax
_|_|_|_| jay@buseng.com

_|_|_|_| NOTE: Please place "response"
_|_|_|_| in any reply header

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:00:25 -0400
Subject: Re: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350

At 12:58 PM 3/26/97 -0400, Scott R Clark wrote:

>Another good candidate would be Borg-Warners T-56 six speed (yup,
>the one found in the Viper, G4 Camaros, and the new Corvette...very
>beefy trans!!!). Fourth
>gear is the 1:1 just like most other trannys, and the top two are *both*
>overdrive (.74:1 5th, and .50:1 6th for OE trannys, and .80:1 5th, .62:1
>6th for the aftermarket version).  A used OE tranny would be fairly
>inexpensive, but unfortunatly, they come with a digital spedo setup, and a
>Corvette style pull clutch.

The T-56's in the 93 Z/28's do not have a digital setup to my knowledge. 94+
F-bodies do though
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:08:11 -0400
Subject: Halls trip

Regarding the Halls trip,

I have decided not to go. I've decided to exhaust some other parts sources
instead. When I called Halls, they couldn't give a definite answer on
anything ("Yeah, we probably have that"). And when I asked if I could fax a
list and get definite answers because I would be traveling hundreds of
miles, I was hung up on.

Right now I can't afford 2 days travel and lodging for "yeah we probably
have that". Everytime that has turned out to be a wild goose chase. I'm
sort of suprised they don't have some sort of inventory something or other,
being such a large operation. The schedule juggling for Easter weekend was
starting to get old also. 100-200 miles would be worthwhile, 600-700 isn't.

I was looking forward to going out there - 3,000+ Olds, "it's worth the
trip" recommendations, etc. I'm interested in hearing about the trip, parts
hunting from anyone who might go out there.

Sorry.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

------------------------------

From: Mark D Loeffler <mdl@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:33:59 -0400
Subject: Re: [Toro] 70 SX for sale

what's blowby?

------------------------------

From: Andy_Lawrence@onf.com (Andy Lawrence)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 13:02:38 -0400
Subject: Bad Rings

My baby needs help:

I have an '85 Delta 88. . .I love the thing but I just replaced the
waterpump, powersteering pump,  and now some bearings may be shot.  The worst
problem that saddens me the most is the fact that one of my 8 cylinders has a
(very) bad ring.  I clean the spark plug all the time and can't accelerate
fast without burning TONS of oil.  When the plug becomes fouled the engine
overheats but it doesn't burn oil.  Sythetic oil still burned (don't ask me
how) but I was going through a quart of the $6 stuff every week and half.
When I switched to regular crappy oil it got better, about a quart every 2
1/2 weeks, but ever since the plug became fouled the first time, its been
going through over a quart a week.

Any suggestions?

- -Andy
dare I say it: it may be time to sell "The Tank"?!?

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:45:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift kit

SNIP___
> >it's a good idea to install a tranny oil cooler too.
> >
> >Jim Chermack
> >70 Cutlass SX W-32
> >72 442
> >
> >
> >
>     What would be involved if I resealed the transmission? Is this really
> tough and expensive? What kind of tranny cooler would you recommend and
> where would be the best place to install one? Thanks a lot for the info.!
>
> Andy Geeting
> '87 Cutlass Supreme
> '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
> '74 Delta 88 convertible
> '78 Caprice wagon
> '36 Plymouth coupe
>
>
>
>
>
I brought a  Trans cooler from Pep Boys in Phila. and I mounted it
in front of the air conditioner condenser behind the grill, I used
some PVC pip as spacers because I did not want it right up against
the condensor and also I wanted the air to be able to flow all
around it...

Peter L. House
87 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:39:44 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

>
> > Does anybody have the 87 type Y 307 V8 motor in there Cutlass, I
> > have one in my 87 Cutlass Salon with 64k miles when I brought it.
> > Anyway, when I really punch it, there is a light smoke that comes
> > out of the tail pipe, not light as in color but thin I sould say,
> > the smoke is a black gray color.
>
> Sounds like the carborator needs adjusting.  Blue smoke is oil, but
> black, gray soot is either carbon or signs of a rich mixture.
>
> Joe Barker
> 84 Cutlass Calais RWD 307Y
>
>
But I thought that the computer should make all of the adjustments
to the carb. This only happens at very high rpm's, If this is the
carbs how can it be adjusted

Peter L. House
87 Cutlass Salon RWD 307 Y V8
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: Gerald Oldberg <tiels@uit.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:48:12 -0400
Subject: 1964 olds 98 cs

I have a 1964 olds 98 with cs package I need to sell (moving). Has a/c
power steering, power brakes, power seat, power windows with 90,000
miles in original condition. Can you give me an idea of it's value
and/or someone who has knowledge of olds 98's. Also if someone is
interested in it.

thank you

jerry

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:15:56 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

Probably no the valve guides wearing, but maybe the valve stem oil seals
not sealing. Reportedly the 307's have a tendency to stop doing their job,
and allow oil to get sucked/leaked down through the valve guide. Maybe a
heavier oil would help for now?

The seals can be replaced without removing the head, by pressurizing the
combustion chamber, and with the right tools. Check a manual for replacing
valve stem seals.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

Anyway, when I really punch it, there is a light smoke that comes
out of the tail pipe, not light as in color but thin I sould say,
the smoke is a black gray color. I was wondering is it the valve
guides wearing, and letting oil pass at high RPM'S 2500-3000 or
worst could it be the rings. The car idles perfect and burns about
1qt of oil every 3 weeks, I think that could be from the valve
cover gasket leaking. I was just thinking if I have to replace the
valve cover gasket I might as well get a head job and lifters with
new pushrods. The car has 77k miles on it now.
Has anybody else had this problem.. My 1986 Cutlass Brougham had
the same problem..


phouse@feith.com
Peter L. House  87 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:25:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder

Theory  for the 220v vs. the 110v is close, but theory isn't always
practical. A continuous duty machine is far more expensive and in not
needed for even for a busy welder. A 220 v machine is more efficent, but
far more expensive than a 110v. A 110v MIG is a good choice for a do it
your self type person who wants to work on his own car. A 220v MIG is a
good choice for some one who wants to do a little more than that. Not every
one has, or want to put a 220v service in (and no a dryer outlet is not to
code!) All these machines have the capability to do the same light jobs
required on cars. Its a cost vs. need kind of thing. Even a 10 o/o duty
cycle welder (means that you can weld 1 min. for every 10 min.the machine
runs at max. capacity.) So if your machine is set down for body work , you
will weld all you want. And when body panels are to be spot welded and
stitched to control heat, what more do you want? Parts and wire are also
cheaper for the 110v MIG vs. an industrial type 220v MIG.Remember your
trying to save money so you can spend more money on your favorate
Oldsmobile.
scott (a practical whiz)
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:24:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Bad Rings

Maybe a heavier oil would help for now? You might want to try using a
hotter plug in that one cylinder to keep the plug cleaner at bit longer and
keep it firing for a longer period of time between cleanings.

Speaking of hotter and colder plugs, the guys (I know that's the wrong term
:)) at Trak-Auto (good for wheel covers & naked women license plate frames,
usually high price, with know it all clerks) will tell you that you will
have more power by running hotter plugs. They stock diesel distributors
also. YMMV :).

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

My baby needs help:

I have an '85 Delta 88. . .I love the thing but I just replaced the
waterpump, powersteering pump,  and now some bearings may be shot.  The worst
problem that saddens me the most is the fact that one of my 8 cylinders has a
(very) bad ring.  I clean the spark plug all the time and can't accelerate
fast without burning TONS of oil.  When the plug becomes fouled the engine
overheats but it doesn't burn oil.  Sythetic oil still burned (don't ask me
how) but I was going through a quart of the $6 stuff every week and half.
When I switched to regular crappy oil it got better, about a quart every 2
1/2 weeks, but ever since the plug became fouled the first time, its been
going through over a quart a week.

Any suggestions?

- -Andy
dare I say it: it may be time to sell "The Tank"?!?

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:27:56 -0400
Subject: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

Michael Baugher
03/26/97 01:27 PM

     For anyone who knows Halls in Soldier Kansas, or planned to go out
there for parts,
     I have just been informed, and verified through the owner at Halls,
that today is
     their official last day in business.  A crusher (I cringe when I hear
the word) has
     bought everything as of today.  They will continue to sell parts off
the cars until
      they are all crushed.  There were thousands of cars from what I
understand.

     A moment of silence for all those beautiful parts cars......

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª578
********************************
