oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca 
02/17/97 08:30 PM
To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #521


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, 17 February 1997      Volume 01 : Number 521

Re:Wiring
Needed 394 or 455 and advice
Re: Build Sheet - Found!
Rocket Symbol @/ Available
Motor Mount Questions & More....
Web Address's
Exhaust System
Re: Exhaust System
Re: Carlisle (was Rating Systems)
Mothballs
Re: What a joke
`65 - 442
Re: Mothballs
Re: Exhaust System
RE: Mothballs
Rebuilding lower control arms
Re: Web Address's
Re: What a joke
Re: Carlisle (was Rating Systems)
Olds Blowers
Re: Web Address's
Re: Rebuilding lower control arms
Re: Mothballs
Re: Rebuilding lower control arms
RE: `65 - 442
Seats
Re: `65 - 442
Re: What a joke
Re: Hood Hinges
Re: Re[4]: Olds Club
Re:  Joke
Parts Cars
Re: Exhaust System
Re: Rating Systems
Re: Parts Cars
Re: Price for a found '70 W30
Re: What a joke
Re: Motor Mount Questions & More....
Press Fit
Re: Rebuilding lower control arms
Toro heads
Re: Carlisle Wrong Road!
Re[2]: Carlisle Wrong Road!
Re: 1970 W-30 Authentication
Re: Re[2]: Carlisle Wrong Road!
Re: Parts Cars
Re: Parts Cars
Re: Parts Cars
Re: #Oldsmobile on DALnet
Re: block sizes revisited
Re: block sizes revisited
1976 oldsmobile delta 88 royale
Re: Parts Cars
Re: Parts Cars

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 06:15:57 -0400
Subject: Re:Wiring

> The circuit that the light wires into is supposed to be the parking lights,
> which, I believe, is a brown wire.  Should the plug for the wire already
beThat's correct

> under the hood?  I can't find it.  The one for the trunk light I put in the
> car was already there, so I assumed the one for the hood light would be.

In my 98 the hood lamp wire comes out from same hole in the firewall as the
speedo cable does. And the shop manual illustrates this to be the correct
thing.

In the fuse block You should install a "clip assembly" in a free slot to put a
5A fuse for Your underhood lamp. This assembly is similar to the other
fuseholders around there. If You are lucky, the wire for your trunk lamp
originates here and there is a free place for underhood lamp. The lamps are
connected parallel.

Hope this helps.

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 08:16:54 -0400
Subject: Needed 394 or 455 and advice

Hi all.

It's time for a new heart for our Niny. The old 394 has been serving the
entire life span of the car and it's still going fine. But I would like to
build a motor for our vechile. I've been reading all the postings about a 455
swaps and it seems to be a reasonable job. But on the other hand, out Niny is
FULLY original.

I would like to have a projectable (restorable) 394.

I would also buy a 455 but there MUST be good reasons for that.

Please, mail call or whatever me directly.

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:53:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Build Sheet - Found!

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>

>Is the number 370791 the same as the six digit number on the motor
>block?  I've seen some olds V-8s with approx. the same number.

No.  I think the body number was a sequential number for the body
only, and had no relation to the VIN or any other numbers on the car.

Andy wrote:

> > >Ah, well, perhaps your car was broadsided in the past, and they
> > >welded in a portion of floor from a donor car built after yours,
> > >and its build sheet came along for the ride. Encouraging thought,
> > >no doubt... :-)

Nice thought, but the car has never been in an accident that I can tell.
Besides, the build sheet was on the drivers side and glass on the
passengers side.  They would have had to section the car...

And someone else (Dan?) wrote:

> > Or maybe nobody looks at those sheets. They could have been randomly
generated.. > > > > "Hey Joe! This car doesn't have a build sheet! Gotta
extra one!?" > > > > > >

Since the sheet glued to the floor appears to be for a car several thousand
units later, the only way for the line assembler to stick it in my car is;

a> the assembler is pulling the sheets off the bottom of the stack
b> my car made a second pass thru the plant.

Neither sounds very plausible.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:58:44 -0400
Subject: Rocket Symbol @/ Available

I have placed a black and white GIF of the @/
symbol on my web page for any of you that may
want to download it and use it as a group identifier
at car shows.

http://www.calcon.net/~easton

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: "Steve Reed" <SSREED@IBM.NET>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 03:56:48 -0400
Subject: Motor Mount Questions & More....

Hey all,
  I have a question concerning motor mounts for my 70 442.  When I
bought the car it had a 350, that quickly threw a rod.  I found a parts
442 in a cow pasture and used the motor, and I'm quite sure the mounts
which attach to the frame.  When I had to reassemble the frame off job
in 30 DAYS (My dad got a transfer W/IBM and was told to go to Austin
and have a job, or stay in NY & be unemployed) I ran into a few
complications.  I got the rubber mounts from Year One; in their catalog
they indicate that the mount ~Will not fit 1970 442 455 models~ (I did
not realize this when I bought the parts months prior).  I had to
elongate the 2 holes where the 4-5" bolt goes through the rubber and
steel mount, in a lathe to make them fit.  (PLEASE realize I was in a
hurry, I was doing this project by MYSELF).  My questions are (1)  Does
Steel rubber company make the proper rubber mounts I need?  (2) If not
Steel, where have others obtained these mounts from?  (3)  Is there a
visible difference in the steel motor mounts which attach to the frame?
  Next:  (4)  Does anyone have a positive battery cable tube in good
shape they would like to sell??

I would REALLY appreciate it if anyone could help me out with this.
I've been reading and learning from the list for a few months now, so I
don't think this question has been asked before.  I am now slipping
into my asbestos flame-retardant suit just in case...

Thanks all,

- -Steve

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 10:10:49 -0400
Subject: Web Address's

Does anyone have a homepage address for Accel ignition or MSD?

------------------------------

From: Steve Wieczorek <stevew@atsmail.gc.lucent.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 10:33:21 -0400
Subject: Exhaust System

        Does anybody have experience with the 3 chamber Flowmaster
        mufflers?

        How would 2&1/2 in. Flowmasters compare to 2&1/4 in. Walkers?

                *  For performance?

                *  For sound?

        I have a '70 Cutlass 350 rebuilt to about 300 hp, 3:23 gears and
        a 3200 stall convertor.

        Thanks,

        steve
        '70 Cutlass conv.
        '83 98 4-dr.
Stevew@atsmail.lucent.com
703-271-7380

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:31:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System

Steve Wieczorek wrote:
>
>         Does anybody have experience with the 3 chamber Flowmaster
>         mufflers?
>
>         How would 2&1/2 in. Flowmasters compare to 2&1/4 in. Walkers?
>
>                 *  For performance?
>
>                 *  For sound?
>
>         I have a '70 Cutlass 350 rebuilt to about 300 hp, 3:23 gears and
>         a 3200 stall convertor.
>
>         Thanks,
>
>         steve
>         '70 Cutlass conv.
>         '83 98 4-dr.
> Stevew@atsmail.lucent.com
> 703-271-7380

Steve, I got a hold of my first flowmaster almost 4 years ago, on
Ponti*c Lemons (LeMans) w/ a 350. Now, I admit that some of Borla's
stuff is probably a bit better, but truly I wouldn't run any other
muffler. They have a distinct sound that you can't mistake for anything
else and they make good power. I had a friend that was beat by a
comparable setup, only my friend was running open pipes and the guy that
beat him was running full-length exhaust with 3" flows. I run 2 2.5" 3
chamber flows on my '70 Cutlass and it really sounds nice behind an Olds
smallblock.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas (No we were not hit by an Asteroid)
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 10:26:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle (was Rating Systems)

     For all those planning to attend Spring Carlisle, lets setup a meeting
     place and time.  Might as well meet each other while we're there.





     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Carlisle (was Rating Systems)
Author:  Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com> at imail Date:    2/14/97 5:37 PM


Peter Teubel wrote:
>
>      Anyone else going to Spring Carlisle??????

Spring Carlisle, Summer Carlisle and Fall Carlisle.
Hell, it only takes me about 50 minutes to get there so I go to all of
'em.  Of course I _don't_ go to F*rds at Carlisle, Ch*vys at Carlisle or
Ch**slers at Carlisle...wish they had an Olds at Carlisle, or even an
B-O-P at Carlisle.

Hey, maybe if we all write them, and all that show up at any Carlisle
event complain to their office about this, we might get some
satifaction.  Doubtful, but worth a try.

Kurt
71 442


------------------------------

From: jmskms@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:26:59 -0400
Subject: Mothballs

Hey everyone,

I'm about to put my 67 Cutlass Supreme away for as many years as {ulp}
TEN...My wife and I are travelling you know.  Soooo... I need some advice.

How should I Mothball my Cutlass so that it will take on the least damage.
I will be able to access the car around once a year. Should We drain the
oil?  Should all the fluids be removed? or just the water?  Should the
Battery be taken out?  I once heard that putting baking soda inside the car
will keep it from getting musty...is this a good idea?

One thing that we are doing is constructing a shed specifically for the
storage of our car and some of our stuff that we can't travel with.  We
probably are going to buy one of those carport kits that you get from Lowes
or Home Depot and then put siding on it.

As I'm in Oklahoma right now, and the car is in Missouri, I need to know
the dimensions of my car.  Sooooo...could someone with a 1967 cutlass or
442 measure the rectangle that could surround the car?

Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the info,
Jonathan


e-mail:  jmskms@ix.netcom.com
www:     www.netcom.com/~jmskms


Hey, this IS my father's Oldsmobile...Ya got a problem with that sis??

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:37:41 -0400
Subject: Re: What a joke

Hi all

This weekend I saw a car for sale for $2500 and was this car a joke.
It was a 69 Grand Prix (Buick? Pontiac?) with a 42? engine.  It needed
all new manifold/engine gaskets.  It had A/C and the bumpers were
rechromed.  The body seemed fairly straight.  Mighta been in an accident
since the trunk was doing a swirling crack near the keyhole.  It had
150K miles and the interior needed to be redone.  The car did start
but shook like a little (vacuum leak).  I couldn't believe the man
wanted so much in such delapidated (sp?) condition.  I thought the
whole experience somewhat funny.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: RAMMER318XT <RAMMER318XT@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:57:07 -0400
Subject: `65 - 442

Hi guys and gals,
  I'm having a little dispute at work and need an answer so I figured
who better to answer my question.
I found a 1965-442, its a nice car and comes with extra body panels
the only prblem is, the owner put a 327c.i.d. Chevy engine in the car
(nice engine,but it doesn't belong in an Olds) so my question for you is
what is the factory engine and trans for this car. I want to bring her
back to being an Olds.
				Thanks
                                   Chuck

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:05:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Mothballs

At 11:26 AM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>
>I'm about to put my 67 Cutlass Supreme away for as many years as {ulp}
>TEN...My wife and I are travelling you know.  Soooo... I need some advice.
>
>How should I Mothball my Cutlass so that it will take on the least damage.
>I will be able to access the car around once a year. Should We drain the
>oil?  Should all the fluids be removed? or just the water?  Should the
>Battery be taken out?  I once heard that putting baking soda inside the car
>will keep it from getting musty...is this a good idea?

I'm not an expert, and others on here will undoubtedly have advice as well,
but I would at least do the following:

Drain the gas tank and empty the fuel lines, including the carburetor.  The
gasoline will become varnish in 10 years.

I'd leave the oil in (prevents corrosion of internal parts).  To this end,
I'd run the engine at operating temperature for at least thirty minutes
before shutting it down for the duration.  This allows water that has
accumulated in the oil to vaporize and leave the engine, thus reducing the
likelihood of corrosion from this source.

Probably the most important thing you can do is to remove each spark plug
and squirt some oil into each cylinder to prevent the pistons from rusting
to the cylinder walls and seizing the engine.  Then put the spark plugs
back on finger tight.  When you go to start the engine again in 10 years,
remove the plugs, squirt some more oil into each cylinder, and replace with
fresh plugs.

I'd leave the coolant in, but I'd put fresh stuff in after doing a thorough
flush.

Definitely remove the battery.  It'll probably be worthless after 10 years
of sitting anyway, and you'll need to put a new one in when the time comes.

You might want to drain and refill the transmission, again to keep parts at
least somewhat lubricated to prevent corrosion.  Same for the differential.

It probably would't hurt to put the car on jack stands to take the weight
off the suspension.  Sitting in one position for 10 years is probably not
good for the suspension, and certainly not good for the tires.

I think your greatest worry will be rodents who set up shop in your
upholstery and perhaps chew the wires under the hood.  You might want to
consider mothballs (at least for under the hood), but others may have a
better suggestion because the mothballs may leave an odor in the interior
that's difficult to get rid of later.


Ten years?  I've heard of vacations, but this is a whopper!  :)


Good luck.



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:45:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System

 I have a pair of Flowmaster three chamber mufflers on my '67 Olds -- 2-1/2"
headpipes and 2-1/4" tail pipes exiting out under the rear bumper.
 I really like the sound - it's comparable to a Mustang 5.0 in loudness with
just regular driving while still keeping that Olds whup whup whup sound and
when you romp on it they get kind of a resonant bell sound.
 The Flowmasters also come with a life time warranty.
  Sorry but i don't know a thing about the Walker mufflers.

 Whatch out for the two chamber Flowmasters - i have one on my Pinto and it
drones so much inside the car i think i actually suffered from noise shock
until i got used to it -- the muffler is actually noisier inside the car than
on the outside.

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:05:26 -0400
Subject: RE: Mothballs

    Good Suggestions. I agree that a big problem is keeping rodents out =
and rust away. I have heard great things about using the "zip-lock" =
bags- car size- that are now on the market. It is literally like putting =
your car in a baggie. However you must, absolutely MUST, put some of the =
desicant material in the bag with the car. This is the stuff, usually in =
bags, that is packed with cameras, etc. to absorb moisture. I don't know =
how much you need for a car stored for 10 years, but I'll bet the people =
who sell the bags can tell you (and can give you a source). They should =
also be able to tell you whether rodents can, or will, eat through the =
plastic bag. Perhaps mothball spread around outside the bag would take =
care of that.
    There are always good articles in the fall in various enthusiasts' =
magazines on the subject of storing a car, but the earlier reply pretty =
much covers what I recall.

- ----------
From: 	Daniel A. Gulino[SMTP:gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu]
Sent: 	Monday, February 17, 1997 10:05 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: Mothballs

At 11:26 AM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey everyone, =20
>
>I'm about to put my 67 Cutlass Supreme away for as many years as {ulp}
>TEN...My wife and I are travelling you know.  Soooo... I need some =
advice.
>
>How should I Mothball my Cutlass so that it will take on the least =
damage.
>I will be able to access the car around once a year. Should We drain =
the
>oil?  Should all the fluids be removed? or just the water?  Should the
>Battery be taken out?  I once heard that putting baking soda inside the =
car
>will keep it from getting musty...is this a good idea?

I'm not an expert, and others on here will undoubtedly have advice as =
well,
but I would at least do the following:

Drain the gas tank and empty the fuel lines, including the carburetor.  =
The
gasoline will become varnish in 10 years.

I'd leave the oil in (prevents corrosion of internal parts).  To this =
end,
I'd run the engine at operating temperature for at least thirty minutes
before shutting it down for the duration.  This allows water that has
accumulated in the oil to vaporize and leave the engine, thus reducing =
the
likelihood of corrosion from this source.

Probably the most important thing you can do is to remove each spark =
plug
and squirt some oil into each cylinder to prevent the pistons from =
rusting
to the cylinder walls and seizing the engine.  Then put the spark plugs
back on finger tight.  When you go to start the engine again in 10 =
years,
remove the plugs, squirt some more oil into each cylinder, and replace =
with
fresh plugs.

I'd leave the coolant in, but I'd put fresh stuff in after doing a =
thorough
flush.

Definitely remove the battery.  It'll probably be worthless after 10 =
years
of sitting anyway, and you'll need to put a new one in when the time =
comes.

You might want to drain and refill the transmission, again to keep parts =
at
least somewhat lubricated to prevent corrosion.  Same for the =
differential.

It probably would't hurt to put the car on jack stands to take the =
weight
off the suspension.  Sitting in one position for 10 years is probably =
not
good for the suspension, and certainly not good for the tires.

I think your greatest worry will be rodents who set up shop in your
upholstery and perhaps chew the wires under the hood.  You might want to
consider mothballs (at least for under the hood), but others may have a
better suggestion because the mothballs may leave an odor in the =
interior
that's difficult to get rid of later.


Ten years?  I've heard of vacations, but this is a whopper!  :)


Good luck.



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:27:37 -0400
Subject: Rebuilding lower control arms

Hey all,
 I'm rebuilding the lower control arms on my, ..ahh GTO, it's an A-body with
more or less the same setup as an Olds.  Anyway, I have the control arm
bushings installed and am having some trouble with the ball joints.  A little
background.  I ordered a complete front end rebuild kit from PST, along with
KYB shocks for my 69 W-31(olds content), and they sent free of charge their
video on rebuilding front suspensions.  In the video they say you can install
busings and ball joints with common hand tools.  To install the bushings they
used old bearing races and what looks like some part of a pipe to install the
lower ball joints.  They would place the pipe over the ball joint so it
contacts the outer lip, then place a piece of metal bar stock over the pipe to
 distribute the force when hit with a hammer and drive the ball joint into
the arm.  The problem I'm having it getting the ball joint to start going
into the control arm straight.  It starts going in crooked and when I try and
straighten it out, the ball joint comes back out.  Any suggestions on how to
get the ball joints in place?  I've thought of several things I can do.  1.
Take my time with the current piece of pipe and make sure it goes in
straight.  2.  Try a different piece of pipe on the ball joint.  3.  Take it
somewhere and have the ball joints pressed in.  The reason I'm asking for
suggestions is that I will be moving shortly, most likely around March 1, and
I need to have the car ready to move, i.e. sitting on all four of its own
wheels.  Not to mention moving all my other cars, engines and parts.  Thanks
in advance for any suggestions or advice.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: Steve Wieczorek <stevew@atsmail.gc.lucent.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:06:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Web Address's

Chris:

Try http://www.msdignition.com

steve
At 10:10 AM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a homepage address for Accel ignition or MSD?
>
>
>
>
>
Stevew@atsmail.lucent.com
703-271-7380

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:27:23 -0400
Subject: Re: What a joke

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> This weekend I saw a car for sale for $2500 and was this car a joke.
> It was a 69 Grand Prix (Buick? Pontiac?) with a 42? engine.  It needed
> all new manifold/engine gaskets.  It had A/C and the bumpers were
> rechromed.  The body seemed fairly straight.  Mighta been in an accident
> since the trunk was doing a swirling crack near the keyhole.  It had
> 150K miles and the interior needed to be redone.  The car did start
> but shook like a little (vacuum leak).  I couldn't believe the man
> wanted so much in such delapidated (sp?) condition.  I thought the
> whole experience somewhat funny.
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442

Beware the Pontiac owner Chris, man you think Olds owners are posessive
of their "rare" stuff. Pontiac owners want an arm and and a leg for
ANYTHING. I used to own a '70 LeMans and I tell you, people with Pontiac
cars and parts are proud of their stuff.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:22:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle (was Rating Systems)

        Here's the directions to Criswell's.  Lots of vehicles and
general salvage stuff.  Real nice people run it.  Very laid back and the
prices are excellent.  My nephew picked up some chrome trim, wheels, trim
rings, and rear window for his '65 Cuda...all for $70.  The rear window
ALONE is worth twice that amount (those things are HUGE).  What do they
have for Olds?  All I can say is they didn't have any 50's Olds.  Make a
day of it...its big.  Its split 50/50..woods and field.
==============

        Directions to Criswell's:
     Get on I-95S, go to Maryland. Get off at the Rt 272 exit, take
     that north toward Lancaster, PA. Rt 272 takes a bend to the left (I
     am not sure how far from I95... maybe 8 miles?), there is a big
     stone building at the corner... keep a close watch on the signs!
     Just stay on Rt 272. From that turn, you will go another 5 or 6
     miles (?), you will see a big old house with ALOT of windows. The
     house is on the right side of the road, the junkyard sits kinda
     behind it... very visible from Rt 272...

=================



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Carlisle (was Rating Systems)
Author:  Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com> at imail
Date:    2/14/97 5:37 PM


Peter Teubel wrote:
>
>      Anyone else going to Spring Carlisle??????

Spring Carlisle, Summer Carlisle and Fall Carlisle.
Hell, it only takes me about 50 minutes to get there so I go to all of
'em.  Of course I _don't_ go to F*rds at Carlisle, Ch*vys at Carlisle or
Ch**slers at Carlisle...wish they had an Olds at Carlisle, or even an
B-O-P at Carlisle.

Hey, maybe if we all write them, and all that show up at any Carlisle
event complain to their office about this, we might get some
satifaction.  Doubtful, but worth a try.

Kurt
71 442


------------------------------

From: joshstrub@csgnyc1.attmail.com (joshstrub)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:26:00 -0400
Subject: Olds Blowers

Sorry it took so long to follow up.  Hampton Blowers, Inc also provide blowers
for Oldsmobile Small and Big Blocks going all the way back to 1949.  Nice guy
and said he has done a lot of work with Mondello.

Hamoton Blowers, Inc
11255 Woodruff Ave
Unit C
Dept. PHR
Downey, CA 90241
310.803.9484

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:25:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Web Address's

Chris:
I don't have an Accel or MSD web address, but there's alot of info on
Accel parts at this address: www.motorville.com/gasket_home/gasket.html
I know it's not the Accel or MSD address you were looking for but I hope
this will help out.

Jim
1990 W-40 Calais

On Mon, 17 Feb 1997, Chris Urban wrote:

> Does anyone have a homepage address for Accel ignition or MSD?
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:37:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding lower control arms

Chris R. Smetana wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>  I'm rebuilding the lower control arms on my, ..ahh GTO, it's an A-body with
> more or less the same setup as an Olds.  Anyway, I have the control arm
> bushings installed and am having some trouble with the ball joints.  A
little > background.  I ordered a complete front end rebuild kit from PST,
along with > KYB shocks for my 69 W-31(olds content), and they sent free of
charge their > video on rebuilding front suspensions.  In the video they say
you can install > busings and ball joints with common hand tools.  To install
the bushings they > used old bearing races and what looks like some part of a
pipe to install the > lower ball joints.  They would place the pipe over the
ball joint so it > contacts the outer lip, then place a piece of metal bar
stock over the pipe to > distribute the force when hit with a hammer and drive
the ball joint into the > arm.  The problem I'm having it getting the ball
joint to start going into the > control arm straight.  It starts going in
crooked and when I try and straighten > it out, the ball joint comes back out.
Any suggestions on how to get the ball > joints in place?  I've thought of
several things I can do.  1.  Take my time > with the current piece of pipe
and make sure it goes in straight.  2.  Try a > different piece of pipe on the
ball joint.  3.  Take it somewhere and have the > ball joints pressed in.  The
reason I'm asking for suggestions is that I will > be moving shortly, most
likely around March 1, and I need to have the car ready > to move, i.e.
sitting on all four of its own wheels.  Not to mention moving all > my other
cars, engines and parts.  Thanks in advance for any suggestions or > advice. >
 > Chris Smetana > Terre Haute, IN > chris_r._smetana@dadc.com > > 1969
Cutlass W-31 > 2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car > 1971 Skylark custom
convertable > 1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

Chris, I have done my fair share of front ends, forget all of the
"common handtools" on this one. Go to your local tool rental place and
rent a ball joint press. It is a huge c-clamp with some cups and
spacers. This is the only simple way I know to do lower ball joints. I
have done it with a hammer and a jack stand before, but this way is
clumsy and dangerous. The tool should cost around $25 a day, plus a
refundable deposit. Most of the time, even with the press, the ball
joint is going to start in crooked, but with press, you can shift the
pressure over to one side and straighten it up.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:33:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Mothballs

On Mon, 17 Feb 1997 jmskms@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> Hey everyone,
>
> I'm about to put my 67 Cutlass Supreme away for as many years as {ulp}
> TEN...My wife and I are travelling you know.  Soooo... I need some advice.
>
> How should I Mothball my Cutlass so that it will take on the least damage.
> I will be able to access the car around once a year. Should We drain the
> oil?  Should all the fluids be removed? or just the water?  Should the
> Battery be taken out?  I once heard that putting baking soda inside the car
> will keep it from getting musty...is this a good idea?
>
> One thing that we are doing is constructing a shed specifically for the
> storage of our car and some of our stuff that we can't travel with.  We
> probably are going to buy one of those carport kits that you get from Lowes
> or Home Depot and then put siding on it.
>
> As I'm in Oklahoma right now, and the car is in Missouri, I need to know
> the dimensions of my car.  Sooooo...could someone with a 1967 cutlass or
> 442 measure the rectangle that could surround the car?
>
> Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the info,
> Jonathan
>
	Jon,

	I have read that instead of using moth balls which will smell up
the car for months after getting it out of storage you can substitue the
moth balls for a bar of Irish Spring soap.  Break the bar in two and
place one piece under each front bucket.  This smell will disapear when
the bar is removed and it is still strong enough to keep away the
critters.  As for the baking soda, I have not heard of it but it couldn't
hurt to try....

	Tim

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442

------------------------------

From: Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:42:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding lower control arms

On Mon, 17 Feb 1997, Chris R. Smetana wrote:

> The problem I'm having it getting the ball joint to start going into the
> control arm straight.  It starts going in crooked and when I try and
straighten > it out, the ball joint comes back out.  Any suggestions on how
to get the ball > joints in place?

	Chris,

	I had the same problem.  I just brought in the arms and ball
joints to the lacal suspension shop and had the ball joints pressed in.
The freshly painted arms needed to be repainted around the ball joint.
The entire procedure took 1/2 hour and cost me $10 per arm.  To me it was
worth the swearing and time saved beating the arms sensless.

	Tim

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442

------------------------------

From: "Etzel Bobby" <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:07:10 -0400
Subject: RE: `65 - 442

Hi Chuck

Glade to here you are going to save a 442. First you need to shoot the owner
for putting a 327 in a Olds 442. Maybe just in the leg if he can help get the
Olds engine back. Here is the info you wanted:

400 CI
345 HP
4 Barrel Carb
3 or 4 speed Manual or Auto Trans (Special duty Jetaway)
Bronze engine color
Letter A cast on front of left cylinder head and rear of right one
Chrome air cleaner with 442 emblems



BTW, get a copy of Oldsmobile 442 & W-Machines Restoration Guide by
(Motorbooks International) T. Patrick Sullivan. ISBN 0-87938-577-4. It will
help you in your restoration. Have fun

Bobby

70 442 (Escape Back to the.....Past)
______________________________________________________________________________
_ From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Mon, Feb 17, 1997 11:10 AM Subject: `65 -
442 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Hi guys and gals,
  I'm having a little dispute at work and need an answer so I figured
who better to answer my question.
I found a 1965-442, its a nice car and comes with extra body panels
the only prblem is, the owner put a 327c.i.d. Chevy engine in the car
(nice engine,but it doesn't belong in an Olds) so my question for you is
what is the factory engine and trans for this car. I want to bring her
back to being an Olds.
				Thanks
                                   Chuck


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------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <DBennett@asuvax.eas.asu.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:54:48 -0400
Subject: Seats

I found some great bucket seats from a '67 cutlass supreme at the local
boneyard.  Could these possible fit into a '72 cutlass supreme.  Do they
make re-cover kits for these?  How about the rear seats, will they fit?
 Thanks for all info and guidance.
- --
Dan Bennett
'72 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:02:08 -0400
Subject: Re: `65 - 442

At 11:57 AM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi guys and gals,
>  I'm having a little dispute at work and need an answer so I figured
>who better to answer my question.
>I found a 1965-442, its a nice car and comes with extra body panels
>the only prblem is, the owner put a 327c.i.d. Chevy engine in the car
>(nice engine,but it doesn't belong in an Olds) so my question for you is
>what is the factory engine and trans for this car. I want to bring her
>back to being an Olds.
>				Thanks
>                                   Chuck

Chuck

        The factory engine in this car is a short stroke 400 cid V-8 rated
at 345 hp. It could either have a 4 spd. or a Jetaway 2 spd Automatic. Don't
remember any three speed cars of that year. Horsepower ratings were the same
for the auto and the stick cars. Engine color is Bronze, and all had a older
version of a Rochester Q-jet. The Q-jets started being used in 1966. Hope
this helps some.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:03:08 -0400
Subject: Re: What a joke

Stephen Hoover wrote:

> Beware the Pontiac owner Chris, man you think Olds owners are posessive
> of their "rare" stuff. Pontiac owners want an arm and and a leg for
> ANYTHING. I used to own a '70 LeMans and I tell you, people with Pontiac
> cars and parts are proud of their stuff.

He told me that this car had the J3? option.  Do you know what in the
world
that is about?

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:06:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

At 11:17 PM 2/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
At 07:10 PM 2/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
I am looking for a set of hood hinges for my '68 442, mine seem to be
worn out (hood eases up at aft end).  I was also wondering if any other
year hinges fit on a '68, due to the limited distance of the '68 hood
hinges?

Thanks,
Chris Miller
'68 442
cya442@inetworld.net

Chris,


Chris,

        I have that set of '68 hood hinges and they seem to be in real good
shape. No cracks or anything. I went out to the boneyard today and raped a
68 442 parts car.
Let me know what you decide.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:13:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Olds Club

In a message dated 97-02-14 01:51:41 EST, you write:

>  I think
>       I'm just going to take my $30 I saved by not renewing and buy the
book
>       with it.

You can save another $10 by ordering the book thru Alpha One.  They only want
$21.95.  Of course, the extra $10 would help the R.E. Olds Transportation
Musuem if you would purchase it through them.

Paul

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:20:40 -0400
Subject: Re:  Joke

What you were looking at, sounds like a Pontiac Gran Prix SJ.  A 42?
engine would be the 428.  As I remember this is a fairly rare auto.
Motor Trend TV (one of those shows on TNN) will be featuring one of
these next week if my memory serves me.  As far as the price goes, if it
was a numbers matching car, out in California where they don't rust
away, it might be worth every penny.  I'm sure it would be here in the
mid-west where rust is king.

Remember, one man's trash is another man's treasure!

Dave Wyatt 70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:29:04 -0400
Subject: Parts Cars

Hi all.

        Just got back from a mornig with my son looking through a bunch of
boneyards. I figured I would give you a list of some of the cars and their
overall condition.

1.)  68 442 Post Coupe - Not much left, Chrome wheel well moldings I think
three of them were good. NO posi, No rear bumper, No drivetrain, us to have
the corerect TH400 in the trunk. Some trim still good.

2.& 3.)  (2) 69 2 door Cutlass 'S'  no.1- Brown, lots of good stuff on this
one. Sheetmetal good, front grilles, front and rear bumpers, SSII wheels,
lotts of trim items in real good shape.
     no. 2- White, Body not in as good of shape as the other one, again lots
of trim items.

4.)  70 Cutlass S post coupe.  - Front and rear seats oustanding. Green
bench, some trim left.

5.)  71 Cutlass post coupe  - Good hood, and some sheet metal, white
interior some good panels, grilles good etc.

Let me know if there is a specific part you need. I can let you know if it's
there and I'll call him and see what he wants.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:31:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System

- ----------
> From: Steve Wieczorek <stevew@atsmail.gc.lucent.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Exhaust System
> Date: Monday, February 17, 1997 8:33 AM
>
>         Does anybody have experience with the 3 chamber Flowmaster
>         mufflers?
>
>         How would 2&1/2 in. Flowmasters compare to 2&1/4 in. Walkers?
>
>                 *  For performance?
>
>                 *  For sound?
>
>         I have a '70 Cutlass 350 rebuilt to about 300 hp, 3:23 gears and
>         a 3200 stall convertor.
>
>         Thanks,
>
>         steve
>         '70 Cutlass conv.
>         '83 98 4-dr.
> Stevew@atsmail.lucent.com
> 703-271-7380
>
> I put the three chamber flowmasters on my 56 Che*y with a crossover and
it sounds like a V8 version if one of those big jap street bikes. I didn't
like it at first but now that I have got used to it it sounds pretty good.
Its not real loud until you get on it then you can hear it a loooooong ways
away.

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:39:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Rating Systems

In a message dated 97-02-14 17:47:30 EST, you write:

> >I am making the trip to Carlisle in April, bringing all the above items
and
>  >a cheat sheet for deciphering codes. Is the Hershey event very different?

Yes, the Hershey show is very different from Carlisle.  It is much larger.
 They used to hold from Thursday thru Saturday, but now they've added
Wednesday too.  And was needed badly.  Saturday is the car show with approx.
2500 show cars.  Hershey doesn't seem to cater to the Muscle Car group as
much as Carlisle does.  Hershey has traditionally been a place to find things
for much older cars, which is why Carlisle was started to begin with.  Don't
get me wrong, there is Muscle Car stuff at Hershey, but there is a lot more
of the Brass Era stuff than you'll ever see at Carlisle.  If you've never
been there you should go.  I'm fortunate in that it's only a 30 minute drive
for me.  I take the whole week and walk every row of every field.  Admission
is free, but you'll have to pay to park.  Olds pickin's are kind of slim at
Hershey.  Fusick is always there with his parts trailer, and Al Sandy is
always there with his Olds literature.  Al also has the official space for
the N.A.O.C.  There are other vendors that have Olds stuff, but you have to
look.

See you this fall?

Paul

------------------------------

From: pete <pete@img.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:47:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Cars

i am from canada..having a very bad time finding a door for my '70 2dr
coupe post...need left drivers side in good shape..any chance the one you
saw is good??? how about the "s" emblems..the body shop broke mine to
hell?? could use the front seat too ..too bad its green..mine is white! );
tnx

pete



At 02:29 PM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi all.
>
>        Just got back from a mornig with my son looking through a bunch of
>boneyards. I figured I would give you a list of some of the cars and their
>overall condition.
>
>1.)  68 442 Post Coupe - Not much left, Chrome wheel well moldings I think
>three of them were good. NO posi, No rear bumper, No drivetrain, us to have
>the corerect TH400 in the trunk. Some trim still good.
>
>2.& 3.)  (2) 69 2 door Cutlass 'S'  no.1- Brown, lots of good stuff on this
>one. Sheetmetal good, front grilles, front and rear bumpers, SSII wheels,
>lotts of trim items in real good shape.
>     no. 2- White, Body not in as good of shape as the other one, again lots
>of trim items.
>
>4.)  70 Cutlass S post coupe.  - Front and rear seats oustanding. Green
>bench, some trim left.
>
>5.)  71 Cutlass post coupe  - Good hood, and some sheet metal, white
>interior some good panels, grilles good etc.
>
>Let me know if there is a specific part you need. I can let you know if it's
>there and I'll call him and see what he wants.
>
>Jim Chermack
>70 Cutlass SX W-32
>72 442
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: pete <pete@img.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:49:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Price for a found '70 W30

At 10:41 AM 2/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I posted this earlier and got no response.  I would like some input on
>this car, since I expect to be closing in on the deal in a week or so.
>Read on....
>
>Found:
>'70 W30.  AT/AC Holiday Coupe, all there except for the red fender wells
>and original front fenders.  Options include Dual Gate, inside hood
>lock, and  AM radio.  I'd call it a grade 5.  Body is faded/dinged with
>some minor rust.   Engine runs, with 68,000 on the odometer.  Based on
>the tired interior, it's probably 168,000.
>
>What is it worth?
>
>Scott Mullen
>'70 442
>
>
>i have '70 holiday coupe ..need a drivers door..any chance its good??

Tnx
Pete


               ~\\ ! //~
                +(o o)+
 *--pete--.o00o.--( )--.o00o.--pete--*

 ******     Pete Berisoff      *******
 *      Penticton, B.C. Canada,      *
 (<:)       1(604)492-6349       (>:o)
 *******    pete@awinc.com     *******
 *******     pete@img.net      *******

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 15:15:32 -0400
Subject: Re: What a joke

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Stephen Hoover wrote:
>
> > Beware the Pontiac owner Chris, man you think Olds owners are posessive
> > of their "rare" stuff. Pontiac owners want an arm and and a leg for
> > ANYTHING. I used to own a '70 LeMans and I tell you, people with Pontiac
> > cars and parts are proud of their stuff.
>
> He told me that this car had the J3? option.  Do you know what in the
> world
> that is about?
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442


Seems like I remember that, something about the powertrain. All those
cars had TH-400 and 12-bolts. I will consult my Pontiac book and get
back to you on that one.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 16:00:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Motor Mount Questions & More....

  Mondello Oldsmobile can set you up with the right motor mounts for your
ride
 (805) 237-8808

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 16:18:21 -0400
Subject: Press Fit

The 'push in the replacement ball joints' thread requires a comment, and
this applies to anything where there is a press fit required.

There is only one way to get something to fit 'fairly easily' that must be
forced home into its socket.

The recepticle end must be supported.

It is not satisfactory to hold on to the 'A' arm while you bang away at it.
You must have total rigidity on the receiving end are all you will do is
hammer away, accomplishing nothing.

Get a 2' piece of wood, about 6" thick the end of a railroad tie would
suffice.  Lay it on a concrete floor, and then put the 'A' arm on the wood.
Then install the ball joint.  If the 'A' arm is still on the car it is more
difficult, but it still must be supported.

A hydraulic press, or even one of the 'C' Clamp hand presses works because
it totally supports the work end.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 10:26:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding lower control arms

Chris R. Smetana wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>  I'm rebuilding the lower control arms on my, ..ahh GTO, it's an A-body with
> more or less the same setup as an Olds.  Anyway, I have the control arm
> bushings installed and am having some trouble with the ball joints.

	<snip>

, and they sent free of charge their
> video on rebuilding front suspensions.  In the video they say you can
install > busings and ball joints with common hand tools.  To install the
bushings they > used old bearing races and what looks like some part of a pipe
to install the > lower ball joints.  They would place the pipe over the ball
joint so it > contacts the outer lip, then place a piece of metal bar stock
over the pipe to > distribute the force when hit with a hammer and drive the
ball joint into the > arm.  The problem I'm having it getting the ball joint
to start going into the > control arm straight.  It starts going in crooked
and when I try and straighten > it out, the ball joint comes back out.  Any
suggestions on how to get the ball > joints in place?  I've thought of several
things I can do.  1.  Take my time > with the current piece of pipe and make
sure it goes in straight.  2.  Try a > different piece of pipe on the ball
joint.  3.  Take it somewhere and have the > ball joints pressed in. > >
Chris Smetana

Chris,

I would probably take them to a shop for pressing.  If you are already
having trouble, that may be best.

They are not hard to force into the A-arms.  Lay the A-arm over the
opening of a vice w/a friend's help.  While he holds the A-arm,
carefully start the ball joint into the opening so that the ball joint
comes through the opening of the vice.  Press it in flush w/the A-arm.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Joseph Fauzio <jfauzio@postoffice.ptd.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 16:55:46 -0400
Subject: Toro heads

Will 68 Toro heads fit on a 71 442 with a 455cu engine. If they do, is
there any advantage to using them?

Thanks

Joe  71 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:00:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle Wrong Road!

Peter Teubel wrote:
>
>            Directions to Criswell's:
>      Get on I-95S, go to Maryland. Get off at the Rt 272 exit, take
>      that north toward Lancaster, PA. Rt 272 takes a bend to the left
>      (I am not sure how far from I95... maybe 8 miles?),

WHOA!  Hold on there, fellas.

I95 runs north and south along the Delaware river about 100 miles east of
Carlisle.  The usual road to Lancaster from Harrisburg would be route
283.  If you're going south from the Harrisburg area towards Maryland,
you might mean I-83.  I check this out a little better if I get a chance
or Phil may know the directions.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 16:20:40 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Carlisle Wrong Road!

     Sorry for the confusion.  These are directions from Boston MA, not
     Carlisle, PA.  I forgot to edit them for originating from Carlisle.

     I tell ya, I'm as sharp as a bowling ball today....ugh.





     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Carlisle Wrong Road! Author:
Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com> at imail Date:    2/17/97 8:00 PM


Peter Teubel wrote:
>
>            Directions to Criswell's:
>      Get on I-95S, go to Maryland. Get off at the Rt 272 exit, take
>      that north toward Lancaster, PA. Rt 272 takes a bend to the left
>      (I am not sure how far from I95... maybe 8 miles?),

WHOA!  Hold on there, fellas.

I95 runs north and south along the Delaware river about 100 miles east of
Carlisle.  The usual road to Lancaster from Harrisburg would be route
283.  If you're going south from the Harrisburg area towards Maryland,
you might mean I-83.  I check this out a little better if I get a chance
or Phil may know the directions.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/



------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 17:55:09 -0400
Subject: Re: 1970 W-30 Authentication

In a message dated 97-02-16 12:26:53 EST, you write:

<< know in '71 you would find an "x" in the VIN.  >>
That only applies to 1972 W cars.  The vin for 68 to 71 should start with
344 for the 442 option.  The only other way is to find the build sheet unless
it is a Canadian car.

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30    (X IN THE VIN CODE)

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 21:45:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Carlisle Wrong Road!

Peter Teubel wrote:
>
>     Sorry for the confusion.  These are directions from Boston MA, not
>     Carlisle, PA.  I forgot to edit them for originating from Carlisle.
>     I tell ya, I'm as sharp as a bowling ball today....ugh.

Monday, Monday.  Can't trust that day.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 19:00:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Cars

At 11:47 AM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>i am from canada..having a very bad time finding a door for my '70 2dr
>coupe post...need left drivers side in good shape..any chance the one you
>saw is good??? how about the "s" emblems..the body shop broke mine to
>hell?? could use the front seat too ..too bad its green..mine is white! );
>tnx
>
>pete


Pete,

        Two of the three post coupes I saw today had good drivers doors. The
guy wants about $135.00 a door though. The only other question I have is how
would I ship it?

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:10:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Cars

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> Hi all.
>
>         Just got back from a mornig with my son looking through a bunch of
> boneyards. I figured I would give you a list of some of the cars and their
> overall condition.
>
> 1.)  68 442 Post Coupe - Not much left, Chrome wheel well moldings I think
> three of them were good. NO posi, No rear bumper, No drivetrain, us to have
> the corerect TH400 in the trunk. Some trim still good.
>
> 2.& 3.)  (2) 69 2 door Cutlass 'S'  no.1- Brown, lots of good stuff on this
> one. Sheetmetal good, front grilles, front and rear bumpers, SSII wheels,
> lotts of trim items in real good shape.
>      no. 2- White, Body not in as good of shape as the other one, again lots
> of trim items.
>
> 4.)  70 Cutlass S post coupe.  - Front and rear seats oustanding. Green
> bench, some trim left.
>
> 5.)  71 Cutlass post coupe  - Good hood, and some sheet metal, white
> interior some good panels, grilles good etc.
>
> Let me know if there is a specific part you need. I can let you know if it's
> there and I'll call him and see what he wants.
>
> Jim Chermack
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32
> 72 442

I am looking for a wheel opening moulding for the drivers side rear of
my '69 442 convertible.  Did either of these cars have it in good
shape?  I appreciate your help.

Patrickd@wwnet.com
1969 442 convertible

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 19:45:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Cars

At 08:10 PM 2/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I am looking for a wheel opening moulding for the drivers side rear of
>my '69 442 convertible.  Did either of these cars have it in good
>shape?  I appreciate your help.
>
>Patrickd@wwnet.com
>1969 442 convertible

Patrick

        Yes they wer in real good shape. Are you looking for a show car part
or a nice one for a nice driver?

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 19:56:45 -0400
Subject: Re: #Oldsmobile on DALnet

>Tuesday nights after 7:00 work great for me. There are other times that I'm
>on but that works best for me. How does that work for everyone else???

No good...I don't get home until 8:30 EST on Tuesday.  Monday or Wednesday
would be OK.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:47:12 -0400
Subject: Re: block sizes revisited

Sorry to interrupt ongoing convo's, but I have a quick question for the olds
Guru's.

Afew days back (OK I just read it), one of you pointed out that all Olds
small blocks were made from the same size block stock (if you'll forgive me
for describing it that way) and that the widths of all Olds smallblock intake
planes (and I presume necessarily the lengths) were the same. Does this mean
that it is possible to transplant a 4bbl intake for a 396 where there had
been a 2bbl intake on a 330?
I understand the difference between mounts for 2 and 4 bbl carbs- that's
actually the reason for the question. (or is the 396 actually a big block,
or, heaven forfend, a non-Oldsmobile part? (gasp)).

Thanx in advance.

Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Dynamic 88

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 21:14:08 -0400
Subject: Re: block sizes revisited

The 396 is a che*y B/B there is nothing that I know of on it that will fit
any Olds. The Qjet would fit but the fuel inlet comes straight in the front
on Olds engine and from the side on Che*y's.

- ----------
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: block sizes revisited
> Date: Monday, February 17, 1997 6:47 PM
>
> Sorry to interrupt ongoing convo's, but I have a quick question for the
olds
> Guru's.
>
> Afew days back (OK I just read it), one of you pointed out that all Olds
> small blocks were made from the same size block stock (if you'll forgive
me
> for describing it that way) and that the widths of all Olds smallblock
intake
> planes (and I presume necessarily the lengths) were the same. Does this
mean
> that it is possible to transplant a 4bbl intake for a 396 where there had
> been a 2bbl intake on a 330?
> I understand the difference between mounts for 2 and 4 bbl carbs- that's
> actually the reason for the question. (or is the 396 actually a big
block,
> or, heaven forfend, a non-Oldsmobile part? (gasp)).
>
> Thanx in advance.
>
> Karl Aune
> Chicago, IL
> 1965 Dynamic 88
>
>

------------------------------

From: MIXO@gnn.com (ANNA HEBROWSKA)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 16:34:01 -0400
Subject: 1976 oldsmobile delta 88 royale

I have a 1976 oldsmobile delta 88 with 70,000 miles in a
 very good condition. Any idea what it may be worth?

Best regards,

Mixo@gnn.com

------------------------------

From: Oldsnut1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 22:10:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Cars

Yes Please! maybe you can help?
I need doors for a '68 cutlass 442 w/post must be mint only!
If you can help E-mail me directly at Oldsnut1@aol.com
Thank You
Anthony B.
Oldsnut1

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 22:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Cars

I have a set, Ill check them out closely and give you a description.
Im from Georgia, so shipping them would be expensive, they are pretty
heavy with the glass and all in them.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 convt


_________________________________________________________________________

Yes Please! maybe you can help?
I need doors for a '68 cutlass 442 w/post must be mint only!
If you can help E-mail me directly at Oldsnut1@aol.com
Thank You
Anthony B.
Oldsnut1






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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #521
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