
oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 26 March 1997      Volume 01 : Number 579

Re: rear window
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Re[2]: 307 V8 Smoke 
Re: Tachometer question
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V 
productions?
Re: Tachometer question
Re: Good Welder
Re: IRC
Re: 307 V8 Smoke 
3.73 Speedo Gear
Re[2]: 307 V8 Smoke 
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Re: 1954 Oldsmobile
Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Re: rear window
Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage
Early Olds List
FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS
Re: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V
1985 Pace Car Poster For Sale (3/26)
Re: Tachometer question 
Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage
Re: FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS
Re[2]: IRC 
Re: Air Cleaner paint 
Computer ERROR Codes
Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage
Attn. Charlie Buehner
remove from email list 
Re: Re[2]: IRC
Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage
(no subject)
Re: rear window
'67 4-4-2 parts
Re: Computer ERROR Codes
Re: Computer ERROR Codes
Re: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350 
FWD: 64 Cutlass 
Re: Bad Rings 
Re: [Toro] 70 SX for sale 
Re: 1964 olds 98 cs 
See my car
Re: Good Welder 
Re: productions? 
Re: turn signal lever repl. 
Re: Bad Rings 
Re: Good Welder 
Re: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V 
Re: Computer ERROR Codes
bleeding oil line
Re: IRC INFO
Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder]
Re: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V
Re: Computer ERROR Codes
Re: bleeding oil line
Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder]
Re: Tachometer question
Re: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350 
Re: bleeding oil line
Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:38:12 -0400
Subject: Re: rear window

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, Suzanne Rousseau wrote:

> Has anyone done any rust repair work around the rear window?  My '67 442
> has bad damage around the mounting surface for the glass, and I'm looking
> for any tips from someone who has experience with this.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul Rousseau
> 
Depends on what you mean by severe!

I had some problems with my '72 Buick Skylark rear window I just removed
the window and wire-wheeled the rust then primered and painted the lip
and about 2" below it   the damage was minor enough that the new window
seal took care of the dips    if yours is really bad I think that it
would be fairly easy to patch in another piech of sheetmetal

Dustin Cross

too many cars to list!!!  (most run)
 

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 03:52:25 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

> But I thought that the computer should make all of the adjustments
> to the carb. This only happens at very high rpm's, If this is the
> carbs how can it be adjusted    

The computer only controls the carburetor's mixture when the system is
running 'closed-loop'.  At heavier throttle openings, the system goes
open-loop; the mixture is now determined by the secondary metering rods
and the fixed dwell of the M/C solenoid.  There is very little that can go
out of adjustment on these carbs.  I would check the float and replace it
if necessary.
 
Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 07:35:51 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: 307 V8 Smoke 

     When you step on the gas and the throttle opens so that the TPS 
     voltage gets to about 4.5 (wide open should be around 5.0V) the car 
     goes into what's called "power enrichment" mode.  During PE mode the 
     car runs in open loop and the computer is effectively out of the 
     picture.  So yes, it's possible that something is wrong with the carb 
     and you're running way too rich when you enter PE mode.
     
     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
Date:    3/26/97 11:20 AM

But I thought that the computer should make all of the adjustments 
to the carb. This only happens at very high rpm's, If this is the 
carbs how can it be adjusted    
     
Peter L. House
87 Cutlass Salon RWD 307 Y V8
phouse@feith.com
     
     

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:34:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

Since the thread is still going maybe someone can answer this....

Would the tic-toc-tach in my 69 442 work with electronic ignigtion?  Is
this possible?  

....Maybe my tach don't even work.  

- -- 
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher                                       
North Texas Olds Club #254	64 Dynamic 88         
Dallas, Texas			69 442                     
OCA #021151			74 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:01:44 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

> 
> Probably no the valve guides wearing, but maybe the valve stem oil seals 
> not sealing. Reportedly the 307's have a tendency to stop doing their job, 
> and allow oil to get sucked/leaked down through the valve guide. Maybe a 
> heavier oil would help for now?
> 
> The seals can be replaced without removing the head, by pressurizing the 
> combustion chamber, and with the right tools. Check a manual for replacing 
> valve stem seals.
> 
> David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
> ------------
> 
> 
I was not aware of a oil seal for the valve stem I thought the
valve guide was the seal and it was a metal sleeve that the valve
stem went through. Is the valve stem oil seal a  matal or some type
of synthetic seal..
> 
> phouse@feith.com
> Peter L. House  87 Cutlass Salon
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:09:46 -0400
Subject: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V 

Ok, so the two 110 branches explain why you need 3 conductor (3 plus ground) 
wire, right? So 220 has the two hot, one neutral, and the ground, right?

About the 220 stove adaptor plug in the HP book, I think that is really a 
temporary or seldom used setup until you have the 220 line properly hooked up.

Yeah, I have space in the box for another double, and I like that idea about 
running one guage larger. The compressor needs 20A, and I could used 12 guage, 
but I'll run 10 guage 3 conductor. Do it once, do it the best way. Dang, five 
220 breakers!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

The power that goes into 98% of all the homes in America, is 220VAC single
phase.  You have two 110VAC branches, but it is all single phase.

Three phase is a different cat altogether.  The 220VAC has two hot wires and
a ground, three phase has three hot wires and a ground, and indeed is
usually used industrially.  

The easiest thing to do is add another double, or a pair of single breakers,
and run another line to the vicinity of where the welder will be used.  I
like to use wire at least one size heavier than code requires too.  I use
range plugs, but there are several 220V socket/plug sets that should be
satisfactory.

Around here Lincoln and Miller seem to have the best reputations for this
sort of equipment.  The best MIGs have a rheostat type wire feed adjustment,
and power adjustment, making both infinitely adjustable; not just coarse clicks.

The Wiz

P.S. All the above was subjected to many snips!

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:59:55 -0400
Subject: productions?

My 69 442 Holiday Coupe came painted sable (code 61). I was told Sable
was only offered in 69.  Can someone confirm this for me?  Does anyone
know, out of the 19587 produced, how many sables there where?

- -- 
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher                                       
North Texas Olds Club #254	64 Dynamic 88         
Dallas, Texas			69 442                     
OCA #021151			74 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 15:25:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

Michael Baugher
03/26/97 02:25 PM

Another Tach question...

     I have a 69 Cutlass S that has the blank plate in the right
     whole on the dash.  How hard is it to find an
      original Tic-Tock-Tach?  I'd like to eventually put one in.

     Is there an aftermarket reproduction available?

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:41:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder

You have to use gas with some flux core wires, depends on the composition
of the flux. But with the normal flux core that comes with the machines
(multi-use) even though you can use gas , it would not do anything.
Flux core wires leave a slag on the welds, where gas wires do not. Co2 gas
leaves a residue that should be cleaned. Using gas is usually more
expensive, especially Argon (best) but leaves a clean, slag free weld.

To the whiz, I have welded for over 10 years and have yet to see a welder
you have to shut off when it's cycle is done. If you over weld , it is
possible to trip the breaker or blow a fuse in your panel ,only because you
are over heating the welder.And if a machine is over heated you don't want
to shut if off, you want to run it so the fan can cool it properly.
scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Olds Mobile <dmtaylor@tiac.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:42:35 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC

> I don't know where you irc guys are, (state) or how familliar with irc the
> group is.
> 
> When you look up "DALnet" there are multiple servers all over the United
> States and Canada, and the person wishing to log in needs to know the server
> address to join.
> 
>
> IF you guys want some participation, or at least someone to try it you need
> to provide more information on what Dalnet server you are on.
> 
> I have used irc and do enjoy it if a "normal" channel can be found.
> 
 FYI  You do not need to know what server to get on. any DalNet server
will have access to any othe DAL net server. This is basic client server
Internet knowledge. just pic a server close o you and then look for
#Oldsmobile.

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 07:51:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke 

>I was not aware of a oil seal for the valve stem I thought the
>valve guide was the seal and it was a metal sleeve that the valve
>stem went through. Is the valve stem oil seal a  matal or some type
>of synthetic seal..

Nylon, I believe.  It sorta looks like somebody poked a hole in a little
plastic bottlecap and then slid it over the valve stem.

If you cut one in half the cross section would look something like this
       
    __      __
  /    \__/    \
 /_________\  

I hope this helps some.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:46:37 -0400
Subject: 3.73 Speedo Gear

> 
> Does anybody out there know what inch ring gear came the
> combination 3.73/200-4R non posi rear in the 85-87 442's. How would
> this combination in a 2.14/200-4R non posi rear affect the trans
> and engine..
> 
> Peter L. House
> phouse@feith.com
> 87 Cutlass Salon
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:54:54 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: 307 V8 Smoke 

I brought this up because there was a decent amount of discussion about it 
a couple of weeks ago. You might want to search the digest archives, or if 
someone has a summary, please post it.

The valve guide to valve clearence is pretty tight, but the seal (teflon, 
other synthetic material) is there to keep the oil from leaking or getting 
sucked into the exhaust or combustion chamber.

Check the simpler things first. If you do the rocker arm cover gaskets, 
check the seals. Other than the obvious, anyone have a way to determine 
that a seal is bad or good?

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

I was not aware of a oil seal for the valve stem I thought the
valve guide was the seal and it was a metal sleeve that the valve
stem went through. Is the valve stem oil seal a  matal or some type
of synthetic seal..
> 
> phouse@feith.com
> Peter L. House  87 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:56:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

 Thanks Tom & Len.

I will try replacing the Carb. I have one that I took off my 86
Cutlass Supreme Brougham with the Y motor, it only had about 5k on
it. I can't remember whether it smoked after that Carb. was
replaced or not, but that should have took care of the prob, if
that was the prob. Does anyone know of any difference between the
to carbs 86 Y motor with 200c Trans. and the 87 Y motor with 2004R
Trans..

------------------------------

From: Merlina Tate <merlinat@televar.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:59:08 -0400
Subject: Re: 1954 Oldsmobile

Marvin Friesen wrote:
> 
> I know of a 54 Olds sales brochure for sale. Cover is the same pic on
> Brycemans Olds Page. Not sure what all is inside. Interested?
> 
> 1976 Cutlass S (1st owner)
> 1976 Cutlass S (2nd owner)
> 1983 Delta 88  (1st owner)
> 
> Marvin Friesen
> Vancouver, BC, Canada
> 
> ----------
> > From: Merlina Tate <merlinat@televar.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: 1954 Oldsmobile
> > Date: Sunday, March 23, 1997 9:12 AM
> >
> > We are restoring a 1954 Olds and are looking for a picture that shows
> > the two-tone paintjob.   Jim TateYes we are interested.  Please send details:
Jim Tate
HC #1 Box 76
Almira, Wa 99103

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:06:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 V8 Smoke

At 03:15 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>1qt of oil every 3 weeks, I think that could be from the valve
>cover gasket leaking. I was just thinking if I have to replace the
>valve cover gasket I might as well get a head job and lifters with
>
leaking valve covers often cause exhaust smoke...think about it! they leak
down to the manifolds, seep in the around the gasket and out your
pipes...i'm sure you have charred, burnt oil in your manifolds by now, and
when you smash it...that thrust of heat produces smoke when in contact with
burnt oil from your valve cover. you have very little miles to have a major
problems! other than a valve seal--but that causes a problem as soon as you
start up.

Jeff   my 2 kilobytes

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:12:39 -0400
Subject: Re: rear window

> On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, Suzanne Rousseau wrote:
> 
> > Has anyone done any rust repair work around the rear window?  My '67 442
> > has bad damage around the mounting surface for the glass, and I'm looking
> > for any tips from someone who has experience with this.

In the current Fusick's catalog there is a listing for a rear window to 
trunk patch panel, $79.00. From the line drawing it is unclear whther 
this is the sheetmetal surrounding the rear window, complete with glass 
mounting lip, or just the piece from under the rear window to the trunk 
lid. It's listed only for '66/'67 models. Might be worth a call.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:18:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

On Wed, 26 Mar 1997 Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>      For anyone who knows Halls in Soldier Kansas, or planned to go out
> there for parts,
>      I have just been informed, and verified through the owner at Halls,
> that today is
>      their official last day in business.  A crusher (I cringe when I hear
> the word) has
>      bought everything as of today.  They will continue to sell parts off
> the cars until
>       they are all crushed.  There were thousands of cars from what I
> understand.
>      A moment of silence for all those beautiful parts cars......

Indeed. What a waste. How sad... 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(violating the rule about quoting text for a one-line response... but 
with reason in this case)

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:20:19 -0400
Subject: Early Olds List

    There was a discussion a few weeks ago about a separate list for =
early Olds. I've sort of lost track on that. Did anything get decided? =
Is there such a thing? If so, how do I get involved.
    By the way, I still like this one also. Even if a lot of the chatter =
is about newer cars than mine, so much of the info carries over or is of =
general interest that I really enjoy it.
          '56 Olds "98"                     R.B. Short,   OKC,  OK

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:34:00 -0400
Subject: FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS

      Date:  03/26/1997  01:34 pm  (Wednesday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS

DOES ANYONE KNOW OF ANY PLACE OR PERSON
WHERE I CAN GET THE LEFT AND RIGHT (OR EITHER)
FRONT FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS FOR A 1964
F-B5/CUTLASS CONVERT.????

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 20:42:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V

The Wiz wrote:
> 
> The power that goes into 98% of all the homes in America, is 220VAC 
> single phase.  You have two 110VAC branches, but it is all single 
> phase.

This ain't exactly technically correct.

The power in most houses is 220V two phase, the wiring being phase A, 
phase B, and neutral (which is SORT of ground and is indeed grounded at 
the house).  Common breakers connect either phase to neutral providing 
110V.  220V is obtained by a breaker bridging BETWEEN the two phases 
WITHOUT using the neutral.  A and B are not in the same phase but 180 
degrees out from each other.  If they were in the same phase, wiring 
across them would still only give you 110v.

There phase power has an A, B, and C phase 120 -- degrees out with 
respect to each other.  Ingoring the math for the moment, the phase 
displacement gives a voltage of 208.  There phase power is quite 
different from two phase power and used primarily in industry.  Two phase 
and three phase wiring and equipment cannot be used interchangably 
however SINGLE phase equipment can be used on any.

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:50:59 -0400
Subject: 1985 Pace Car Poster For Sale (3/26)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to 
sell:

1985 Oldsmobile Calais 500 Pace Car showroom poster.  Approximately
2 x 3 feet with a left-front color drawing of the pace car.  Mint
original condition.  $12.00, including Priority Mail shipping to any
address in the United States, rolled and in a protective tube.  I
have multiples of this item and will ship two together, for $18.00. 
(3/26/97)

Please notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to 
purchase one or more of these posters, or if you would like 
additional information about them.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:00:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question 

In a message dated 97-03-26 16:28:35 EST, you write:

<< Would the tic-toc-tach in my 69 442 work with electronic ignigtion?  Is
 this possible?  
  >>
yes it would, I put in a hei ignition and hooked up my tick toc tac and it
worked.  the problem with them is that they are not accurate.  Its because
they are old and have poor electronics in them.  I suggest to either have it
rebuilt for that stock look, or buy an Autogage 2 1/4 tach and mount it on
the column.  btw i am using a tilt column with no problem with the tach

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:05:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

What is the name of the company?  I'd be willing to bet that if we got a
hold of them, they'd be willing to sell some of the cars and let us haul
what we buy off for scrap price!!  If somebody can find the companies
name, there are a couple of cars that I might ask them about!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldmsobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.       


On Wed, 26 Mar 1997 Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Michael Baugher
> 03/26/97 01:27 PM
> 
>      For anyone who knows Halls in Soldier Kansas, or planned to go out
> there for parts,
>      I have just been informed, and verified through the owner at Halls,
> that today is
>      their official last day in business.  A crusher (I cringe when I hear
> the word) has
>      bought everything as of today.  They will continue to sell parts off
> the cars until
>       they are all crushed.  There were thousands of cars from what I
> understand.
> 
>      A moment of silence for all those beautiful parts cars......
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:04:35 -0400
Subject: Re: FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS

Michael Baugher
03/26/97 04:04 PM

..Also for a '69 Cutlass while we're talking about them...

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 10:06:00 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: IRC 

     Yes we do need to know what server to get on.  You say any DalNet 
     server will work.  HOW DO I KNOW WHAT THE DALNET SERVERS ARE?  Where 
     can I find a listing of them, and how can I find a nearby one?  How do 
     I "look up" DALnet?  I start my IRC program and it asks what server I 
     want to connect to, what name do I type in?
     
     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: IRC
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
Date:    3/26/97 1:05 PM

> When you look up "DALnet" there are multiple servers all over the United
> States and Canada, and the person wishing to log in needs to know the server 
> address to join.
> 

 FYI  You do not need to know what server to get on. any DalNet server
     will have access to any othe DAL net server. 

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:23:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint 

Okay, so in talking about a car which I sold more than 24 years ago,
I could very easily be mistaken about the color of the original air
cleaner on my '68 442.  I was probably thinking of the OAI assembly
which I bought from the owner of a modified '68 Hurst/Olds and
installed on it.  I guess that the only thing which I remember about 
the original air cleaner is a thin metal disc with some sort of 442
emblem on it, which went on top of the lid and was clamped down by a
seperate chromed piece at the center of the top.  This was all held 
together by the wing nut. 

Anyway, sorry about any confusion which my poor recollection might 
have caused.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:32:23 -0400
Subject: Computer ERROR Codes

Is it safe to say that if my 88 Q4 olds is reading 5 different codes from
the PROM 
tha the computer has seen better days? nothing is unplugged.

Jeff 

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:44:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

- --0__=J3aQlCqGK2nHSMdhYfrS3T6tpznQ6JSVq3ciL65zJPBWa4clnDK4wpEG
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII




Michael Baugher
03/26/97 04:44 PM

They're called Halls Oldsmobile Salvage....located in Soldier
Kansas...phone number (913)924-3748....They're crushing as we speak


                                                                    
 (Embedded image                                                    
 moved to file:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu                          
 PIC24133.PCX)   03/26/97 04:05 PM                                  
                                                                    



Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Michael Baugher/MO/americancentury)
Subject:  Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage




What is the name of the company?  I'd be willing to bet that if we got a
hold of them, they'd be willing to sell some of the cars and let us haul
what we buy off for scrap price!!  If somebody can find the companies
name, there are a couple of cars that I might ask them about!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldmsobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.


On Wed, 26 Mar 1997 Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Michael Baugher
> 03/26/97 01:27 PM
>
>      For anyone who knows Halls in Soldier Kansas, or planned to go out
> there for parts,
>      I have just been informed, and verified through the owner at Halls,
> that today is
>      their official last day in business.  A crusher (I cringe when I
hear
> the word) has
>      bought everything as of today.  They will continue to sell parts off
> the cars until
>       they are all crushed.  There were thousands of cars from what I
> understand.
>
>      A moment of silence for all those beautiful parts cars......
>
>
>
>




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------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:53:07 -0400
Subject: Attn. Charlie Buehner

Having trouble with your address again 

please reply with correct version

------------------------------

From: DMR67442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 18:55:06 -0400
Subject: remove from email list 

remove me from email list a.s.a.p 

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 19:03:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: IRC

I'm no expert on IRC, but here's what worked for me:

I downloaded mIRC from one of the sites (you can go to www.mirc.co.uk to 
find all about it). When I installed the software it came preconfigured 
with a whole list of servers already there, including a long list of 
Dalnet servers and a selection for a random dalnet server also. These 
worked fine for me.

There will *not* be a "#oldsmobile" channel there out of the box. 
However, all you need to do is either set it up in your channels list by 
adding it, or as Esko said this morning, do a /join #oldsmobile and 
you'll be there.

Can't help you with other IRC client software, or Macs. Sorry. But this 
is what worked for me.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 19:01:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Halls Oldsmobile Salvage

At 02:27 PM 3/26/97 -0400, Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:

>
>     For anyone who knows Halls in Soldier Kansas, or planned to go out
>there for parts,
>     I have just been informed, and verified through the owner at Halls,
>that today is
>     their official last day in business.  A crusher (I cringe when I hear
>the word) has
>     bought everything as of today.  They will continue to sell parts off
>the cars until
>      they are all crushed.  There were thousands of cars from what I
>understand.
>
>     A moment of silence for all those beautiful parts cars......

Hmmm... that makes those Olds cars and parts that I have been stashing away
a little more valuable
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made  

------------------------------

From: "C.K.G.-B." <bluffin@netins.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:45:44 -0400
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 19:50:55 -0400
Subject: Re: rear window

The 66-67 cars are notorious for rusting out at the back window,  I just
purchased a patch panel from YEAR ONE and Im going to install it in the
next couple of weeks.  I had one big half dollar size hole in one corner,
I thought I could just get away with welding in small patch, but when I
took off the chrome it was gone all the way across  so I need the full
patch.  Ill let you know how it goes.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 442 W30
71 442 Convt
 
______________________________________________________________________________

>Has anyone done any rust repair work around the rear window?  My '67 
>442
>has bad damage around the mounting surface for the glass, and I'm 
>looking
>for any tips from someone who has experience with this.

If anyone has done work like this, I'd be interested in your experiences,
too.  My rear window needs a little repair.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 20:21:14 -0400
Subject: '67 4-4-2 parts

does any one need a hood for a '67 4-4-2, also front fenders, core
support, trim, headlite buckets, and a door. just finishing a 4 year
resto-mod and have some left over parts from donor cars. e-mail  for
info. doug

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 20:24:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Computer ERROR Codes

At 06:32 PM 3/26/97 -0400, IRONMAN wrote:
>Is it safe to say that if my 88 Q4 olds is reading 5 different codes from
>the PROM 
>tha the computer has seen better days? nothing is unplugged.

Hard to say. One bad sensor could be setting off 4 or 5 other codes.  The
computer in my dad's 307 powered 86 Buick Electra Wagon has just died. The
car runs (although horrible) and when I try to access the codes from the ECM
it does not want to give any readings at all. I am gonna swap in an ECM from
a 1985 Delta 88 that is optioned similar with a 307. Sure it may not be an
exact match but it is better than paying what the dealership wants for one. 
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made  

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 23:52:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Computer ERROR Codes

Jason Labay wrote:
> 
> At 06:32 PM 3/26/97 -0400, IRONMAN wrote:

> >Is it safe to say that if my 88 Q4 olds is reading 5 different codes 
> >from the PROM

> Hard to say. One bad sensor could be setting off 4 or 5 other codes.  

That's a fact, Jack.  uh... Jason.  Recent experience taught me to clear 
the error codes then check then from time to time for that very reason.

METALLIC-PERSON:

Whatcha mean "from the PROM"?  Do you mean checksum errors and the CPU 
won't go into diagnostic mode?

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:05:19 -0400
Subject: Re: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350 

>
>	Another good candidate would be Borg-Warners T-56 six speed (yup,
>the one found in the Viper, G4 Camaros, and the new Corvette...very
>beefy trans!!!). Fourth
>gear is the 1:1 just like most other trannys, and the top two are *both*
>overdrive (.74:1 5th, and .50:1 6th for OE trannys, and .80:1 5th, .62:1
>6th for the aftermarket version).  A used OE tranny would be fairly
>inexpensive, but unfortunatly, they come with a digital spedo setup, and a
>Corvette style pull clutch.  The aftermarket version is pretty expensive,
>but it comes with a gear driven spedo, and is designed to be used in 3rd
>gen Camaros and Mustangs, so it uses the usual push style clutch.  The
>aftermarket setup also comes with an adapter plate that was designed to
>let you bolt it right up to a T-5 bellhousing, but by re-drilling the
>holes, I don't see why you could'nt make it fit an Olds bellhousing,
>making it an almost bolt up proposition.  The only thing you would have to
>make sure of is that the input shaft is of the right length to work with
>the clutch.   
>
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

Ok, you think the tranmission knows if the clutch is pulled out of
engagement or pushed?

That's interesting information that hasn't reached Missouri yet, and cars
will likly be obsolete by the time it reaches Montana.

The input shaft length to clutch data indicated above is totally in error.
The input shaft much reach the pilot bearing at the rear of the crank, the
clutch has no bearing on this dimension.

The clutch and bellhousing do however, have an intimate relationship.

As a bit of an oversimplification:

1. You can use any bellhousing/clutch assy that will bolt to the engine.

2. You can use any transmission that will bolt to the bellhousing, and that
has an appropiate input shaft.

3. The clutch disc must be splined to match the transmission input shaft.

You can fairly well mix and match within the above guide lines.  It is not
absolutely necessary to use the pull type clutch just because it was
delivered from the factory with one.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:05:28 -0400
Subject: FWD: 64 Cutlass 

In a message dated 97-03-25 20:31:07 EST, you write:
This fella has a 64 cutlass that sounds like a 442 package on it.  I would
like to know if anybody can help him with some info. Thanks in advance W
Machines


<< Here is all I can get off the car. The Protect-O-Plate booklet shows the
car was delivered 2-22-64 from T&S Cadillac-Olds, Inc. Statesville N.C. , the
 ID plate on the firewall says it was built in Lansing Mi. Style 64 3237
 Body LA130 under that is      2K-L-5A . I know that is'nt a lot to go on,
the car is real original, like I told you last night the air cleaner base is
there but the top is missing and the car is missing the factory radio. It
does have a 4 row radiator, with shroud, air, dual pulley alternater, strange
4bbl carb. and the high comp. gas cap, with dual pipes to the rear. The 4
speed tranny is muncie as with the shifter, no center counsole just a shifter
ahead of the bucket seats . From what I've read the 442 was mid year and that
may have some bearing on this car.       TThras5320@aol.com   >>

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:14:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Bad Rings 

At 01:02 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>My baby needs help:
>
>I have an '85 Delta 88. . .I love the thing but I just replaced the
>waterpump, powersteering pump,  and now some bearings may be shot.  The worst
>problem that saddens me the most is the fact that one of my 8 cylinders has a
>(very) bad ring.  I clean the spark plug all the time and can't accelerate
>fast without burning TONS of oil.  When the plug becomes fouled the engine
>overheats but it doesn't burn oil.  Sythetic oil still burned (don't ask me
>how) but I was going through a quart of the $6 stuff every week and half. 
>When I switched to regular crappy oil it got better, about a quart every 2
>1/2 weeks, but ever since the plug became fouled the first time, its been
>going through over a quart a week.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>-Andy
>dare I say it: it may be time to sell "The Tank"?!?
>
>
First: run a compression check, and see if you do indeed have ring trouble.

Second: Synthetic oil is NOT synthetic, it comes out of an oil well just
like the regular stuff does.  Why wouldn't it burn?  What is synthetic about
synthetic is the molecule; it is synthetic, ie, it is reformed from what did
come out of the ground.

Third: your trouble is more LIKELY bad valve seals, not rings, but with the
out-of-round bores being bantered about in too many Oldsmobiles, ring
trouble is not absolutely impossible.

If your trouble is rings, ie, much lower compression on the bad cylinder
your in for a lot of work.  Also, the longer you run that engine without
addressing the actual problem, the likelyhood that the rings in that hole
will go bad increase rapidly.

If your trouble is seals, it is a fairly easy job to install them.  The new
engine does not have them.  However, when the engine has been run the guides
wear, and when this wear grows to the point of where oil can easily pass by
you have trouble.

Seals are an easy panacea.  They work very well.  They can usually be
installed with a few simple tools, with the engine still assembeled.  Some
do require the top of the valve guide to be machined, but even that can
usually be addressed with the heads still on the car.  The are a little
rubber like cup (sort of like the little rubber booties on the coil end of
the spark plug wire set.  You get an adapter that forces air into the
cylinder, makes sure that the hole you are working on is not under tension
by the cam.  You remove the valve retainer, spring and other small parts.
The rubber bootie is placed over the guide, with the valve coming thru the
hole.  After the bootie is in place, the return the spring and other parts,
and move onto the next one.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:15:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Toro] 70 SX for sale 

At 02:33 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>what's blowby?
>
>
>
What does this question have to do with a Toro for sale?

Anyway, blowby is the condition where the rings fail to seal properly, and
some of the fired charge 'blows by' the rings into the crankcase.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:18:16 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964 olds 98 cs 

At 02:48 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 1964 olds 98 with cs package I need to sell (moving). Has a/c
>power steering, power brakes, power seat, power windows with 90,000
>miles in original condition. Can you give me an idea of it's value
>and/or someone who has knowledge of olds 98's. Also if someone is
>interested in it.
>
>thank you
>
>jerry
>
>

Jerry,

This comment is not directed 'just to you' even though you are guilty, but
nearly everyone that has a car for sale here, forgets several of the most
important questions, like: what body style is it?  And how much to you want
for it?  And where is it located?

If these questions were answered with the first post, it would make much
things easier on the 250 odd balls that are here to read it!

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:23:54 -0400
Subject: See my car

Well, I finally got around to scanning some car pics and sent them to
Bryce.  Check out my ride at the URL below.

BTW, for the past couple days I have not seen much mail from this list. 
Is activity down or am I having a mail problem?
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich    mailto:old442@erols.com
71 442           see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:20:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder 

At 03:25 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Theory  for the 220v vs. the 110v is close, but theory isn't always
>practical. A continuous duty machine is far more expensive and in not
>needed for even for a busy welder. A 220 v machine is more efficent, but
>far more expensive than a 110v. A 110v MIG is a good choice for a do it
>your self type person who wants to work on his own car. A 220v MIG is a
>good choice for some one who wants to do a little more than that. Not every
>one has, or want to put a 220v service in (and no a dryer outlet is not to
>code!) All these machines have the capability to do the same light jobs
>required on cars. Its a cost vs. need kind of thing. Even a 10 o/o duty
>cycle welder (means that you can weld 1 min. for every 10 min.the machine
>runs at max. capacity.) So if your machine is set down for body work , you
>will weld all you want. And when body panels are to be spot welded and
>stitched to control heat, what more do you want? Parts and wire are also
>cheaper for the 110v MIG vs. an industrial type 220v MIG.Remember your
>trying to save money so you can spend more money on your favorate
>Oldsmobile.
>scott (a practical whiz)
>kozhill@titanlink.com
>
>
Scott,

I agree a limited duty cycle 110v unit should be fine for the home car
hobbiest, especially one that is just working with sheetmetal.  But these
machines do have limitations, and sometimes they are sever limitations; all
I wanted to do was point them out.  Pleased remember, on this post, I did
not RECOMMEND, anything.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:23:19 -0400
Subject: Re: productions? 

In a message dated 97-03-26 15:50:20 EST, you write:

>  I was told Sable
>  was only offered in 69.  Can someone confirm this for me?

Yes.

>  Does anyone
>  know, out of the 19587 produced, how many sables there where?

No.

Paul Hartlieb
who now has to start using his last name name 'cause someone left that other
Paul join up.

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:23:46 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal lever repl. 

REplacing turn signal switch
   Before you pull ut the old switch attach a flexible say 16 gauge elec wire
to the base so when you pull up the old wire you will have wire to pull the
new switch wire back down. I haven't done it but sounds like a good idea, try
it.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:24:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Bad Rings 

At 03:24 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Maybe a heavier oil would help for now? You might want to try using a 
>hotter plug in that one cylinder to keep the plug cleaner at bit longer and 
>keep it firing for a longer period of time between cleanings.
>
>Speaking of hotter and colder plugs, the guys (I know that's the wrong term 
>:)) at Trak-Auto (good for wheel covers & naked women license plate frames, 
>usually high price, with know it all clerks) will tell you that you will 
>have more power by running hotter plugs. They stock diesel distributors 
>also. YMMV :).
>
>David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
>------------

David,

I want some of the naket lady license plate frames, how much too expensive
are they.  I already have a diesel distributor on my work bench as we speak.
The funny thing about that distributor is that it uses little pipes instead
of wires.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:33:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder 

At 04:41 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>You have to use gas with some flux core wires, depends on the composition
>of the flux. But with the normal flux core that comes with the machines
>(multi-use) even though you can use gas , it would not do anything.
>Flux core wires leave a slag on the welds, where gas wires do not. Co2 gas
>leaves a residue that should be cleaned. Using gas is usually more
>expensive, especially Argon (best) but leaves a clean, slag free weld.
>
>To the whiz, I have welded for over 10 years and have yet to see a welder
>you have to shut off when it's cycle is done. If you over weld , it is
>possible to trip the breaker or blow a fuse in your panel ,only because you
>are over heating the welder.And if a machine is over heated you don't want
>to shut if off, you want to run it so the fan can cool it properly.
>scott
>kozhill@titanlink.com
>
>

Duty cycle is how much operation the unit can stand until it overheats.
While the arc is being struck the duty cycle begins, remove the arc (even
though the machine is still turned on) the cycle is off.  And if you working
on tin, a 25% or maybe even lower duty cycle should be satisfactory.

CO2 is not a satisfactory shielding gas, people that use it are trying to
get by on the too cheap.  If you are hiring a person to do gas shielded
welding for you, and their shielding gas bottles are CO2 look elsewhere.
Even if the welder says that it is OK, he lying (maybe not intentionally).
When CO2 hits the arc it's molecule is broken apart, into CO and O2 I think.
You are shielding to keep the atmosphere (with much O2) out of the air, off
the weld!  Argon is a very satisfactory shielding gas.  Also, Argon can have
2% or 3% or so of CO2 in it and still be fine, but pure CO2 doesn't make for
as nice a held that Argon does.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:38:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V 

At 08:42 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The Wiz wrote:
>> 
>> The power that goes into 98% of all the homes in America, is 220VAC 
>> single phase.  You have two 110VAC branches, but it is all single 
>> phase.
>
>This ain't exactly technically correct.
>

I agree, you are technically, and actually correct.  However, what I
intended to say, was that each 110v side was a single phase, but it
certainly did not come out that way.  My err.

>The power in most houses is 220V two phase, the wiring being phase A, 
>phase B, and neutral (which is SORT of ground and is indeed grounded at 
>the house).  Common breakers connect either phase to neutral providing 
>110V.  220V is obtained by a breaker bridging BETWEEN the two phases 
>WITHOUT using the neutral.  A and B are not in the same phase but 180 
>degrees out from each other.  If they were in the same phase, wiring 
>across them would still only give you 110v.
>
>There phase power has an A, B, and C phase 120 -- degrees out with 
>respect to each other.  Ingoring the math for the moment, the phase 
>displacement gives a voltage of 208.  There phase power is quite 
>different from two phase power and used primarily in industry.  Two phase 
>and three phase wiring and equipment cannot be used interchangably 
>however SINGLE phase equipment can be used on any.
>

Again I agree, if you tap the right wire pair!

>    66 Toro 
>The /\   /\ and Mike
>
>
>--
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 21:41:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Computer ERROR Codes

At 11:52 PM 3/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Jason Labay wrote:
>> 
>> At 06:32 PM 3/26/97 -0400, IRONMAN wrote:
>
>> >Is it safe to say that if my 88 Q4 olds is reading 5 different codes 
>> >from the PROM
>
>> Hard to say. One bad sensor could be setting off 4 or 5 other codes.  
>
>That's a fact, Jack.  uh... Jason.  Recent experience taught me to clear 
>the error codes then check then from time to time for that very reason.
>
>METALLIC-PERSON:
>
>Whatcha mean "from the PROM"?  Do you mean checksum errors and the CPU 
>won't go into diagnostic mode?

i just read the codes from how many times the service engine light blinks,
i came up with....13,22,24,36,43. these codes point to devices(moreless
sensors) under the under the hood....i have a hard time believing that olds
more route all these sensors in a series connection. that would be
ignorant. now i think the compter has seen better days cuz there is no way
all those sensors are bad.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: jim helle <helle@dbeach.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:49:24 -0400
Subject: bleeding oil line

I have a convertible. I just installed a cylinder on the top. I now have
as much air as I have fluid in the system. Can anyone tell me how to
bleed the air?
Thank you 
Jim Helle

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 22:07:03 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC INFO

Ok, as of now we have a new record...5 people on IRC at once.  Wow! 
Anyway, I think Greg's previous instructions are sufficient for most
IBMers to connect.  I will post the Mac info for anyone who needs it
(just ask).  If the instructions still aren't clear from the previous
post, just ask again.  I was also thinking about a link from Bryce's web
page on how to join the chat.  What do you say Bryce?

- -Dan

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>      That's great, but I think he still has the same question I do.  What
>      are the DALNET servers??  Where do I find a list of them?
> 

>

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 22:21:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder]

- ----------
> From: Robert J. Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
> 
> Oh, speaking of which, I don't have any room to install this in my garage
> (no room in the ceiling or rafters, either). I was planning on building
an
> attached shed for the compressor on the back of the garage, and was
> wondering on ventilation/insulation schemes that would reduce the noise
of

 
> One other option that I'd like you opinion on is plumbing a hard air-line
> between my garage and the basement. I'm going to be digging a trench for
> some lines to be run out to the garage (220v for a future MIG), and I was
> considering laying some iron pipe down as well, and putting some air
> fittings on the end so i can run the compressor in my basement,

My shop air is plumbed with 1/2" PCV and it works great. Its cheap easy to
run and will never rust out. 
Walter

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 01:37:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Good Welder, 220 V

C.R.F. wrote:
> 
> >...however SINGLE phase equipment can be used on any.
> >
> 
> Again I agree, if you tap the right wire pair!

You betcha!  It's 110v from any phase (2 or 3) to neutral.

BTW, in single phase 110v you've got three wires: hot (one phase), 
neutral, and ground - the third prong.  Theoretically (which means don't 
do this standing bare-foot in a puddle) neutral and ground SHOULD be at 
the same electrical potential.

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 01:42:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Computer ERROR Codes

IRON-JEFF wrote:
> 
> i just read the codes from how many times the service engine light 
> blinks, i came up with....13,22,24,36,43. these codes point to 
> devices(moreless sensors) under the under the hood....i have a hard 
> time believing that olds more route all these sensors in a series 
> connection. that would be ignorant. now i think the compter has seen 
> better days cuz there is no way all those sensors are bad.

I wouldn't be so quick to jump to a bad computer.  If one sensor is bad 
it can throw several operating parameters out of tolerance causing 
multiple error codes to register.  Clear the computer then check it it a 
day.  If it still has multiple codes, clear it again then check it in a 
few miles.  You probably get down to the "root" error that's screwing 
everthing else up.  

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 22:59:45 -0400
Subject: Re: bleeding oil line

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, jim helle wrote:
> I have a convertible. I just installed a cylinder on the top. I now have
> as much air as I have fluid in the system. Can anyone tell me how to
> bleed the air?

I did this... not hard, though it helps to have a helper. Just remove the
fill plug on the top motor fluid tank and have the helper cycle the top up
and down. You're in the trunk adding fluid as it needs it. Eventually most
of the air will be worked out of the system as the pump cycles the fluid 
back and forth. Just go slowly and be patient. Oh, and be sure to 
reinstall the fill plug when you're done. In my excitement I failed to do 
this the first time...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 23:03:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder]

Speaking of Air Compressors, I just got mine at Sams.  It is a Coleman
(sanborn) 5hp, 26 gallon, cast iron, 220 volt model.  They are getting
rid of them and they are selling them for $239.  That is a damn good
deal.  Sam's normal price was $299 and that was a good price.

> My shop air is plumbed with 1/2" PCV and it works great. Its cheap easy to
> run and will never rust out.

I assume you mean PVC?  Anyway, I hear that you do have to worry about
it exploding under pressure, but if you have schedule 40 or better, I
don't think it would be a problem.  I took apart some of my air
compressor lines (same as gas lines) and they did have rust inside of
them.  I blew all of the lines clean and I installed an oiler in the
lines.  Hopefully this will help.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:01:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
> 
> Michael Baugher
> 03/26/97 02:25 PM
> 
> Another Tach question...
> 
>      I have a 69 Cutlass S that has the blank plate in the right
>      whole on the dash.  How hard is it to find an
>       original Tic-Tock-Tach?  I'd like to eventually put one in.
> 
>      Is there an aftermarket reproduction available?

Michael,

I don't know how hard these are to find or if they are being
reproduced.  I have an extra one I wouldn't mind selling.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 14:16:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 6 gears to go...was Re:  going to manual from TH-350 

>Ok, you think the tranmission knows if the clutch is pulled out of
>engagement or pushed?

I'm having trouble picturing a pull type clutch and a push type clutch.
Does this refer to the way the linkage connects to the clutch fork or  which
way the clutch fork need to move to disengage the clutch.  I would think
that the end of the clutch fork needs to move towards the front of the
engine to disengage the clutch regardless of the type of trans.    Unless
not all clutch forks pivot in the bellhousing.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme 

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:23:28 -0400
Subject: Re: bleeding oil line

jim helle wrote:
> 
> I have a convertible. I just installed a cylinder on the top. I now have
> as much air as I have fluid in the system. Can anyone tell me how to
> bleed the air?
> Thank you
> Jim Helle

Jim,

Cycle the top up & down repeatedly.  After each cycle, replentish the
fluid - I hope that it is ATF & not brake fluid.  After a couple of
cycles, it should get noticeably better.  When the bubbles are out of
the lines & not showing up in the resevoir, you should be there.  Don't
forget to repeatedly top off the resevoir.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 17:29:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder]

jones wrote:
> 
> ----------
> > From: Robert J. Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >
> >
> 
> > One other option that I'd like you opinion on is plumbing a hard air-line
> > between my garage and the basement. I'm going to be digging a trench for
> > some lines to be run out to the garage (220v for a future MIG), and I was
> > considering laying some iron pipe down as well, and putting some air
> > fittings on the end so i can run the compressor in my basement,
> 
> My shop air is plumbed with 1/2" PCV and it works great. Its cheap easy to
> run and will never rust out.
> Walter

Walter,

Mine is also plumber with 1/2" PVC.  This makes for high pressure, but
restricts the flow too much.  I would recommend 5/8" & will change mine
later this year.  Another recommendation is that the PVC be mounted
securely w/clamps as it will fatique under vibration.  Don't forget a
water trap & consider several outlets.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #579
********************************
