To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #584


oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 30 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 584

Re: Improving 307 performance on low-budget
Re: Wow, I feel a bit young.
Re: "Vista Cruiser" script partª
Rear -ends....
Re:Rare Cars
[none]
Re: Supercharger
RE: Rare Cars?
Re: Longevity and Oil
Re: Rear -ends....
Re:
Carb Question
RE: Rare Cars?
Re: Carb Question
Change of Web Address
RE: Supercharger
Re: Carb Question
Olds complimentary 8-Track
Re: Rare Cars?
Re: Carb Question
Re: Carb Question
Re: Supercharger
Re: Rare Cars?
Re: Emmissions
ª5 Head Rebuilding
olds summer car show dates
RE: ª5 Head Rebuilding
Re: Carb Question
Re: Carb Question
Re: Oil Weight - The FACTS!!!
Electric Cars
How do I fix noisy lifters?
Electric cars....
Ranco Suspension in '86 Olds 442?!?
Re: New Repro Shifter Lens has arrived
Re: No Subject

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 16:12:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Improving 307 performance on low-budget

        There are some basic things you can do to improve the performance of
your Olds.
        1.  Do a good tune up on the car and include some aftermarket parts
such as
             A.  A good set of spiral core wires --  if the car you are
working on has the
                  original carbon core wires you will notice a difference in
that it will run
                  smoother and get slightly better gas mileage along with
slightly better
                  performance.
             B.  A Mallory or Accel coil upgrade kit --- believe it or not
coils do wear out.
                   you could expect the same performance gains as with the
wires.
             C.  A set of  Bosch or AC platinum tip spark plugs. -- You could
also try
                  running a set of those U-groove or Split tip spark plugs --
they didn't
                  make a difference to me, but they might for you.
             D.  Install a K&N air filter element -- they flow freer than the
stock paper
                  type filter element.
             E.  Get rid of the carbureter mounted fuel filter and install an
inline Fuel filter
                   with a 3/8" diameter inlet/outlet between the carb and the
fuel pump.
             F.  Install a Holley or Edlebrock high volume mechanical fuel
pump. --- the
                  Edlebrock pump i know for sure will come with a port for
your evap
                  system.

Those are the most simple and straight forward things you can probably do to
your car for under $300 to improve the performance of your car.  You can also
try fiddling with the ignition timing for even better results.
       Hope that gives you a few ideas

                                                       J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: timj1852@juno.com (Timothy M Johnson)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:15:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Wow, I feel a bit young.

On Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:09:20 -0400 talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
writes:
>>>All the three-in-the tree talk and talk of young people nwho have
>never
>>>heard of them  is starting to make me wonder:  Am I the only 20yr
>old on
>>>this list or thereabout that likes 70's oldsmobiles.

I am 26 and drive a ' 71 Cutlass S.   I also own a 64 Studebaker
Commander 169 c.i. inline six with three-on-the tree, overdrive, and
hill-holder.  It's not the most exiting machine to drive, but it will
cruise all day at 65 m.p.h. while getting close to 25


Tim Johnson
'71 Culass S
'64 Studebaker Commander

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: "Vista Cruiser" script partª

Wiz
  Four numbers total  2 lefts  2 rights

Everett

------------------------------

From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 18:41:57 -0400
Subject: Rear -ends....

ok, I have a question that has been bothering me for the past week..

  I have an 81 Cutlass.. I recently purchased a 3.73 for the rearend for
this 7.5 in. small carrier. Three weeks ago i sheared out my pinion and
threw chucks everywhere so the spider gears and the axles got torn up...
Well, I took it to the only shop around here willing to work on rearends.
After being messed around for three weeks I told em to tow the car back and
I'd do it myself.. I went to the salvage yard and got a used 85 cutlass
rearend. Is it still a 7.5 in rearend? I need to know if those gears I
bought for for the 81 will still fit. Also, can anyone identify the code -
it's not it my books.  AK  C354   , feels like a low 2.xx

Thanks,


T. H. Shires
81 Olds CSB w/ 68 Rocket 350 and a 85 rearend....

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 19:41:03 -0400
Subject: Re:Rare Cars

Wiz&Bill

I too agree that raity does not enhance value.  Desirability~&~rarity enhance
value.  But to whom?  What we must all face here is that our cars are really
only valuable to a select minority of the population.  This being the people
who know what the cars are in regards to their production numbers,
performance and other factors. Most people will look at the 60's and 70's car
and hopefully see a great car.  Others will see an outdated, gas guzzling,
unsafe old car. (mostly politicians:-)))))  The same will undoubtedly hold
true for the '80-90's cars in 25 years.

I don't think there is any question whether or not the W-41 powered cars will
become desirable and thus valuable.  This being for the following reasons:
they were built in such small numbers, they were purpose built to qualify for
homalagation(sp?) requirements in the IMSA Firehawk racing series (much like
the 302 powered Z28s of '69) and their performance with these option/engine
packages makes them as fast or faster than many of the muscle cars of the
same era(C*m*ros/M*ust*ngs,80s 442s, MonteSS etc).

Value is truly in the eye of the beholder I believe.  I have looked at
several MonteSSs, GNs and late '80s 442.  I liked the cars very much.  The
are all cool cars in there own right and are certainly desirable and valuable
cars.  But not nessicarily to me.  Just today I looked a 2 I-Series Calais'
on a lot.  One 91 and one 90.  The production figures for 2 door I-Series
Calias' were under 700 for each year.  Are these cars rare? Yes I think they
are.  However, they both had automatic transmissions and the lower HP Quad4.
 This made neither of them valuable to me.  It just made them neat rare cars.
Plus I thought the dealer wanted about $2,500 too much for both off them.:-)

I will not sell my W-41 for three reasons.  1.It is very rare. 2. I believe
it will become very valuable in the future. 3. My wife would kill me if I
did.;-)))))

Cecil
1991 W-41

------------------------------

From: Dustin E Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 20:14:27 -0400
Subject: [none]

It was such a beutiful Saturday I decided that there would be no better
way to enjoy it than to venture up to a junkyard that I have just recently
started shopping at. I think that this is the first time EVER that I have
spent all day at a 'yard and not bought anything!!

Anyway I thought I'd mention a few cars I spotted in case anyone was
interested.

early '70s buick sport wagon the body is complete with only minor damage
to front end (damaged bumper and grill) it is missing the engine and
tranny I believe he would take 200-250 for the whole car

mid '70s tornado with a factory sunroof (the thing is huge) I think the
headliner and trim were red

speaking of tornados I saw 2 of what looked like rally rims for one in a
pile of other stuff.  did they put rallys on tornados?

'65 jetstar 88 convert  hard front collision but it had a good deck lid,
tail lights, rr 1/4 panel, pass door, it had alot of good chrome and all
of the side glass

'69 vista cruiser mostly complete it has damage to the pass doors but is
fairly straight it has power windows and possibly AC (i forget)  I can get
this one for $250 but all I really want are the power windows for my '68
wagon    is anyone interested in the rest?

'66 F85 very straight very complete except it is missing the hood

there are lots of tornados mostly '70s but a few '60s

several '60s and '70s cutlas supremes only one '80s

these are near Missoula Montana let me know if interested in anything the
prices arent too bad

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:17:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

jones wrote:
>
> .. Now this guy tells me on the phone I have to inclose my carborator in a
> BOX!  No way..
>
I have an R2 supercharged Avanti that presurizes the carburetor by use
of a bonnet over the venturi opening like an air cleaner.  The carb must
be a specialized AFB that has excellent sealing gaskets all around.  If
not my presurizing goes for naught.

Another version of the supercharged Avanti is the R3 w/a hood over the
whole carburetor.  Sealing the hood against the intake eliminates the
specially sealed carburetor.  One of these needs to be done if one
doesn't want to waste the pressure supplied by the supercharger.

 The only other alternative is to pressurize the mixture after the
carburetor does it's job.  That is how my turbocharged Jetfire does it.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:02:31 -0400
Subject: RE: Rare Cars?

At 03:42 PM 3/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>"Well I disagree...sorta:-) I seriously doubt that the W-41 or the XC
>Ciera will become valuable as the likes of the 70 LS6 Chevelle, Daytona
>Superbee's, etc. If they do there will be a much more limited market for
>them...mostly Olds enthusiasts."
>
>I think the man has a good point about the four cylinder W-cars, and their
>like, becoming collector cars.  The point about the V8-type cars(Monte
>SS's, GN's, etc.) is also good, but the four-banger cars are
>smaller, lighter, and have better gas mileage, yet still have plenty of
>performance potential, especially our highly-esteemed
>Quad4's.  This, I believe, is what's going to have a heavy influence on
>what becomes collectible in the next 15-25 years; especially if gas
>prices continue to rise and the Zero Emission Vehicles (eg-electric cars)
>continue to progress technologically. (which they shall)
>If they become more cost-competitive(and they prob'ly will) and a good
>system of "gas stations" and stuff is set up for them, then gas-powered
>cars might become more expensive to own and operate.
>
>Also, these smaller-engined cars'll prob'ly be cheaper to insure down
>the road, just as they are now, and that might influence what kinda car
>people would want to own.
>
>
>       Jim Townsend
>
>       '90 Calais W40
>
>
>
I have some technolongical type questions:

1. Where does the electricity that powers electric cars come from?

2. Insurance rates are determined by a demographacally contrived conception
of risk.  From existing statistics the risks are far greater in the lighter,
and more fragile cars (read that as more fuel efficient); than in the two
ton old barges that were once commonplace.  Do you really think the
insurance companies are going to pat you on the back with lower rates
because you drive a more fuel efficient, and hence more dangerous car?

2a. Which would you rather be in, in an front end collision with 40 tons of
truck: 1. A CRX or 2. Any two ton Detroit sedan?

3. After some period of time all cars become collectible.  Don't you think
you are confusing collectible with desirable?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:23:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Longevity and Oil

At 06:00 PM 3/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Today's Wheels section in the Toronto Star has an article on engine oil.
>Aside from the usual advice that frequent oil changes are beneficial,
>there were a couple of interesting blurbs:
>
>"The spouse of an acquaintance bought a new F*rd Explorer
>sport-utility and drove it without ever lifting the hood to check the oil
>level or delivering it to the dealer for scheduled oil changes.
>The engine lasted 50,000 kilometres before it self-destructed."  <snip>
>
>"Yet consider the man who drove his 17-year-old Oldsmobile into the
>vehicle inspection centre I operated in Vancouver a
>few years ago.
>
>The car had more than half a million kilometres on the odometer. But its
>engine, which had never been disassembled, was in
>better condition than those in some 3-year-old cars we had checked." <snip>
>
>"Remember that Oldsmobile owner in Vancouver? Recently, I read an auto
>club article reporting that the same car had
>completed 800,000 kilometres and was well on its way to reaching a
>million."
>
>---> To convert to miles, multiply by 0.621.
>     The entire article can be found at:
>http://www.thestar.com/thestar/editorial/wheels/970328M01_SN-AUTO-OIL-.html
>
>Kevin Wong
>
>
>
Kevin,

Pardon the pun, but you ain't w(r)ong.  Want an engine to live, change the
oil.  Want it to live a long time, change the oil early and often.

All the plaver about oil weight the last couple of days needs a little
rebuttal.

1.  In the summer, if it's not absolutely necessary, do not use
multi-viscosity oils.  They are for winter use, and in cold weather, at that.

2.  Do not use heavier oil than is necessary for your driving conditions.  A
50 weight oil does not add life to an engine, although it may prolong a
dying one.  With a 50 weight oil, even in the summer is harder to start, and
all most all engine wear happens at START.  The 50 weight oil does not begin
to circulate thru the engine nearly as quickly as a 30 weight (the usual
recommendation by most car manufacturers for normal driving) so you are
doing extra damage by using it if it is not necessary.

3.  Heavy trucks that run the gambit of Canada in mid-winter, and hauling a
load to Florida have value in multi-viscosity oils, where the engine
manufactuers warrants their usage.  It gives good service in all climes, but
it does not offer the best service where a vehicle does not spend most of
its time away.

4.  For the best service, in cold winter service, use a multi-viscosity oil;
but change to a straight weight in summer; if it warms up of course.  The
winter service weight, ie the "10" of a 10W30, is the winter service weight
and is INTENDED to help with STARTING only.  AFter the engine, and hence the
oil, is warmed the light ends become detrimental.

5.  Another happenstance with multi-viscosity oils is that after they begin
to wear out they sort of lose the higher and lower ends of their viscosity
range.  So change your oil, often.  The additives are worn out by 1000
miles, so that gives you some idea of what a REAL change interval should be!

6. Oil brands.  Ever since the Pennsylvania motor oils stopped using
Pennsylvania crude, all motor oils, from the major manufactuers are
substantially the same.  They use the same brite stock, and Monsanto makes
almost all the additives.  Any major brand of oil is going to be GOOD.  What
is different is the GRADE, and all oil manufactrers make different grades.
I expect it would take a rather close look chemically, to find even a minor
difference between the oils of any two major producers of the same grade.

6A. In their day, and as legends go, Pennsylvania crude provided a superior
brite stock for the production of lubricating oils.  I expect that it was
always sweet and light, and was one of those happenstances, where everything
went well when it was used.  I do not know the actual whys of Pennsylvania
crude, so I must attribute it to legend.  Also there are two kinds of crude
oil, paraffinic and asphaltic, which offer different aspects to their
constituent parts.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:39:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear -ends....

Tracy H. Shires wrote:
>
> ok, I have a question that has been bothering me for the past week..
>
>   I have an 81 Cutlass.. I recently purchased a 3.73 for the rearend for
> this 7.5 in. small carrier. Three weeks ago i sheared out my pinion and
> threw chucks everywhere so the spider gears and the axles got torn up...
> Well, I took it to the only shop around here willing to work on rearends.
> After being messed around for three weeks I told em to tow the car back and
> I'd do it myself.. I went to the salvage yard and got a used 85 cutlass
> rearend. Is it still a 7.5 in rearend? I need to know if those gears I
> bought for for the 81 will still fit. Also, can anyone identify the code -
> it's not it my books.  AK  C354   , feels like a low 2.xx
>
> Thanks,
>
> T. H. Shires
> 81 Olds CSB w/ 68 Rocket 350 and a 85 rearend....

It should be the 7.5".  Only the 442's, MC's and GN's had the 8.5", I
believe.  It's probably a 2.14:1 or a 2.29:1.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:50:56 -0400
Subject: Re:

Dustin E Cross wrote:
>
> It was such a beutiful Saturday I decided that there would be no better
> way to enjoy it than to venture up to a junkyard that I have just recently
> started shopping at. I think that this is the first time EVER that I have
> spent all day at a 'yard and not bought anything!!
>
> Anyway I thought I'd mention a few cars I spotted in case anyone was
> interested.
>
> early '70s buick sport wagon the body is complete with only minor damage
> to front end (damaged bumper and grill) it is missing the engine and
> tranny I believe he would take 200-250 for the whole car
>
> mid '70s tornado with a factory sunroof (the thing is huge) I think the
> headliner and trim were red
>
> speaking of tornados I saw 2 of what looked like rally rims for one in a
> pile of other stuff.  did they put rallys on tornados?
>
> '65 jetstar 88 convert  hard front collision but it had a good deck lid,
> tail lights, rr 1/4 panel, pass door, it had alot of good chrome and all
> of the side glass
>
> '69 vista cruiser mostly complete it has damage to the pass doors but is
> fairly straight it has power windows and possibly AC (i forget)  I can get
> this one for $250 but all I really want are the power windows for my '68
> wagon    is anyone interested in the rest?
>
> '66 F85 very straight very complete except it is missing the hood
>
> there are lots of tornados mostly '70s but a few '60s
>
> several '60s and '70s cutlas supremes only one '80s
>
> these are near Missoula Montana let me know if interested in anything the
> prices arent too bad
Hi Dustin,

Did you happen to notice any ralley pack dash's in any of them, I have a
friend with a 70 W31 who is looking for one.  I'm looking for a ram air
hood setup for my 70 SX.  I have a sister who lives about 10 miles NW of
Bigfork, MT  been up there a couple of times really pretty country.


John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:53:29 -0400
Subject: Carb Question

Being new to Old's Muscle cars I was wondering if they ever used Holley
carbs on any of them?  Also did they have a power drum brake system on
70's Cutlass's?

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:45:22 -0400
Subject: RE: Rare Cars?

>I have some technolongical type questions:
>
>1. Where does the electricity that powers electric cars come from?

You plug them into 120 overnight or 240 for 'bout 4 hrs.  So they're not
really zero emissions if your power plant burns coal instead of using a
hydroelectric dam.  You might be able to displace the pollution if your
power plant is 50 miles away.  On the plus side, electric vehicles can go
much farther on the energy they use.  I forget the exact numbers but an
electric motor put's about 75% of the energy consumed into mechanical energy
while gasoline engines put about 20% of it's energy consumed into mechanical
energy.  The rest of the energy is wasted as heat.  And an electric car can
also "regenerate" some of the power it uses by recharging the batteries as
it deccelerates instead of turning it into heat as the brakes on an
conventional car would.  The effect is similar to engine braking in a
conventional car, and of course you still need brakes to actually stop.

>2. Insurance rates are determined by a demographacally contrived conception
>of risk.  From existing statistics the risks are far greater in the lighter,
>and more fragile cars (read that as more fuel efficient); than in the two
>ton old barges that were once commonplace.  Do you really think the
>insurance companies are going to pat you on the back with lower rates
>because you drive a more fuel efficient, and hence more dangerous car?

Well if they're only insured for liability, the smaller car might be less
expense for the insurance company since they'll do less damage when they
hit.  And statistically, since they can stop and turn better, they are
better at avoiding accidents.  But then again, the Insurance companies have
motorists by the you-know-whats and they're going to charge whatever they
can.  After all, they're in business to make money.


>
>2a. Which would you rather be in, in an front end collision with 40 tons of
>truck: 1. A CRX or 2. Any two ton Detroit sedan?

It wouldn't matter to me.  If you have a head on with a 40 ton truck driving
anything other than a freight train, might as well face it.  You're f---ed.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supeme

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 00:38:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

John Oder wrote:
>
> Being new to Old's Muscle cars I was wondering if they ever used Holley
> carbs on any of them?  Also did they have a power drum brake system on
> 70's Cutlass's?
>
> John Oder
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32

No, I do not believe so.  All Oldsmobile factory carbs on 70's Cutlass
were of the Spreadbore Rochester Quadrajet variety.  A few Carter
Spreadbores ended up on some Cutlasses in the early 70's, but I have no
idea what that was all about, and that was very rare.

However, if restifying is OK, a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb will
work just fine.  In fact, I have one on my 71 442.

Power drum brakes were common back in those days.  In fact, drum brakes
were standard on the 70 442!! Power front discs were optional. (W-30's
required front discs, however.)  If your SX has drum brakes, do not be
alarmed.  I once had a cutlass I converted over to discs.  If you are
interested in doing this, let me know, I will tell you how to do it [if
originality doesn't count]. (One good thing.  The spindles for either
type is the same part number.  Don't let anyone tell you different.  So
you don't even have to take the ball joints loose!)


Hope this helps.

Mike Rothe
71 442, 69 H/O

------------------------------

From: Lance Mackey <lamackey@sns-access.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 00:45:51 -0400
Subject: Change of Web Address

Due to the recent purchase of my internet provider by another company, the
new address for my website is:

http://www.sns-access.com/~lamackey

This may be changing soon, as my new provider isn't keeping their word that
the old address would work until July. My old email address should still
work for a while. By the way, I haven't really changed anything in a while,
so if you've been there recently you needn't bother.



Happy Cruzin'

Lance Mackey
lamackey@3rdplanet.com
http://www.3rdplanet.com/~lamackey/hurst_hp.html ('68 Hurst/Olds website)

'67 Supreme post UHC 330
'68 Hurst/Olds (original family)
'59 Chevy Viking
'63 Nova 400
'69 Camaro SS396
'70 Camaro 350/300hp
'86 Camaro 502 (original owner)

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:43:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Supercharger

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- -----Original Message-----
From:Oldoldsguy@AOL.COM [SMTP:Oldoldsguy@AOL.COM]
Sent:Saturday, March 29, 1997 12:03 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: Supercharger


In a message dated 3/29/97 3:24:16 AM, you wrote:

<<>>Aaron
>>1972, 4-4-2 W30>>

Its your car and I support your decision to do what you want with it.  =
That
said I'm also man enough to tell you that IMHO your a damn fool for =
molesting
an original (and rare) X car.  Buy a $200 post coupe and go crazy!   I =
am
disturbed that no one else on the list has attempted to educate you on =
this
subject.  As a serious Oldsmobile collector, I'm offended by the lack of
response from this

=20

[Aaron R. Weimer]  =09

I understand your issue totally.. This is the reason for going with an =
under the hood unit.  I don't wish to mess with the body style.  I love =
the hood scoops.. I have already made many mods under the hood.. and =
when I purchased the car it was never stock or even close.  The previous =
owner ran this car at the Miland Michigan dragway for years.  I got it =
from a cousin who purchased it in the 80's.. Never been stock.  But as =
fare as looking at it, it looks stock.., this is the reason for trying =
to get an under the hood supercharger.. I know that the fith diget in =
the serial is an X and how much it hurts you to see one moded like this. =
 But I never seen it stock, and it would cost me twice what I have spent =
to make it that way :< Sorry my friend.

Aaron

1972 4-4-2 W30


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC3CAC.FEE9ADE0--

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 03:28:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

John Oder wrote:
>
> Being new to Old's Muscle cars I was wondering if they ever used Holley
> carbs on any of them?  Also did they have a power drum brake system on
> 70's Cutlass's?
>
> John Oder
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32

John,

I know that there were power drum brake systems available on '70
Oldsmobile Cutlasses as well as it's sisters throiughout GM.  I don't
believe that the Holley was ever available.  Quadrajets were the
4-barrel since '65 & the Rochester box type before that.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:06:50 -0400
Subject: Olds complimentary 8-Track

I found an Oldsmobile complimentary 8 Track tape with songs from various
artists on it.  Is this worth anything?  Anyone interested in purchasing
it?  If so, E-mail me privately at: antonj@erols.com

Jeff
'91 Quad 442 W-41
'70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 01:25:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Rare Cars?

Sigh - I guess the days of stumbling across these rarities is probably a
thing of the past, but one can dream.

------------------------------

From: Steve <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:45:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

MROTHE wrote:

>
> No, I do not believe so.  All Oldsmobile factory carbs on 70's Cutlass
> were of the Spreadbore Rochester Quadrajet variety.  A few Carter
> Spreadbores ended up on some Cutlasses in the early 70's, but I have no
> idea what that was all about, and that was very rare.

I have one of these!!, I had no idea they were very rare...However it is
not a
Carter spreadbore it is still a Q-Jet, Rumor has it that Rochester could
not produce
the amount of Q-jets needed so they subcontracted Carter to "pick up the
slack" .

You can id one of these pretty easily. On the side of the carb it will
say
"Quadrajet by Carter" instead of the usual "Rochester Quadrajet"..

Hope this helps..

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:52:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

At 11:53 PM 3/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Being new to Old's Muscle cars I was wondering if they ever used Holley
>carbs on any of them?  Also did they have a power drum brake system on
>70's Cutlass's?
>
>John Oder
>70 Cutlass SX W-32
>

John

        Olds never used a Holley carb. They used 4-Jet's and Q-Jet's
exclusively.  Power Drum brakes were very common on 68-72 A-body cars. They
suck for stopping power though. You should look for c complete disc brake
setup and convert it. You won't believe the difference.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:57:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

On Thu, 27 Mar 1997, Aaron R. Weimer wrote:

>
> Ok all, here is a good question for you.  I have a 1972 442,
> W30, and I am looking to put a supercharger on it.  One catch. I want an
> under the hood supercharger, like the vortech that you can mount on
> Mustags..  Has anyone attempted this?  Vortech says they don't offer
> them for carborated engines but they tell me that it is possible and
> some people have successfully done so.. Anyone have any info for first
> hand knowledge on this issue?  I wanted to install this under the hood
> because I love the hood scoops and don't want a nasty supercharger
> sticking out of my hood.. Thanks!

Check with Dave Smith.  He used to sell a B&M 174" blower & matching
manifold for the 455.  Apparantly this fits under the hood.

Of course, the easiest route is to use Nitrous - the supercharger in a
bottle... It's a lot cheaper to do.

- -Rod
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:02:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Rare Cars?

> 1. Where does the electricity that powers electric cars come from?

 I read somewhere that if the electricity used to recharge a zero emissons
car was generated from coal the powerplant makeing the electricity created
more emissons than the car would have created on gasoline. With natural gas
it was less and nuculer power created nuceler waste to dispose of. Of
course hydroelectric was the only true zero emisson power.
I am not sure if this was fact or just someones opinon.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:05:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Emmissions

On Sun, 30 Mar 1997, jones wrote:

> > 1. Where does the electricity that powers electric cars come from?
>
>  I read somewhere that if the electricity used to recharge a zero emissons
> car was generated from coal the powerplant makeing the electricity created
> more emissons than the car would have created on gasoline. With natural gas
> it was less and nuculer power created nuceler waste to dispose of. Of
> course hydroelectric was the only true zero emisson power.
> I am not sure if this was fact or just someones opinon.
> Walter
>
True, electric cars can actually generate more emmisions, a lot due to
the fact that moving and storing electricity in a battery is not too
efficient.  The real bonus that these people are looking for is that
pollution from power plants often ends up far away, in other countries
(USA and Canada have strict inter-country pollutions laws for coal due to
this).  Of course, you can't actually prove that people only want to move
the pollution problem away from their doorstep, but it would look like
that to a complete stranger.  Unfortunately, I live in Saskatchewan,
where we're too spread out and it's too cold for electric cars, which is
a shame, because I was so looking forward to trading in my '76 Olds 98
4dr hardtop for a nice little electric van to cruise around in.




EA~

------------------------------

From: "Robert G. Ahrens" <AlphaSig@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:07:27 -0400
Subject: ª5 Head Rebuilding

I have just acquired a set of ª5 cylinder heads and I am planning on having
them rebuilt (valve seats cut, new springs, etc) I have been reading in the
Mondello technical manual about the problems associated with work done on
the heads, due to the non-adjustable valvetrain and lifter preload.
Mondello suggests that you buy his valve stem height gauge and give it to
the macnine shop so that they can check for the proper valve stem height,
presumably to assure proper lifter preload.

Has anyone out there had any problems with their heads after a rebuild/3
angle job? Also, has anyone bought the Mondello gauge and actually taken
that to their machinist?

Thanks,

Bob
BTW - I am swapping out my 307 for an Olds 350. That is what these heads
will go on.

------------------------------

From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 16:00:26 -0400
Subject: olds summer car show dates

i am planning my summer vacations and am wondering if anyone can give me
the dates and locations of the best olds shows this summer.

Thanks

Chris Matthes
73 cutlass

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:33:34 -0400
Subject: RE: ª5 Head Rebuilding

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC3D07.26412440
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Any capable machinist can measure heads properly. If you handed someone =
Mondello's so called "tool" you'd probably get a good laugh out of him. =
This goes for a lot of other Mondello products, save your money. Just =
furnish you machinist with the desired specs for any machine work and =
let him handle it. I would however double check them once you get the =
heads back.

- ----------
From: Robert G. Ahrens[SMTP:AlphaSig@postoffice.worldnet.att.net]
Sent: March 30, 1997 12:07 PM
To: olds
Subject: ª5 Head Rebuilding

I have just acquired a set of ª5 cylinder heads and I am planning on =
having
them rebuilt (valve seats cut, new springs, etc) I have been reading in =
the
Mondello technical manual about the problems associated with work done =
on
the heads, due to the non-adjustable valvetrain and lifter preload.
Mondello suggests that you buy his valve stem height gauge and give it =
to
the macnine shop so that they can check for the proper valve stem =
height,
presumably to assure proper lifter preload.

Has anyone out there had any problems with their heads after a rebuild/3
angle job? Also, has anyone bought the Mondello gauge and actually taken
that to their machinist?

Thanks,

Bob
BTW - I am swapping out my 307 for an Olds 350. That is what these heads
will go on.






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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC3D07.26412440--

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:30:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

MROTHE wrote:
>
> John Oder wrote:
> >
> > Being new to Old's Muscle cars I was wondering if they ever used Holley
> > carbs on any of them?  Also did they have a power drum brake system on
> > 70's Cutlass's?
> >
> > John Oder
> > 70 Cutlass SX W-32
>
> No, I do not believe so.  All Oldsmobile factory carbs on 70's Cutlass
> were of the Spreadbore Rochester Quadrajet variety.  A few Carter
> Spreadbores ended up on some Cutlasses in the early 70's, but I have no
> idea what that was all about, and that was very rare.
>
> However, if restifying is OK, a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb will
> work just fine.  In fact, I have one on my 71 442.
>
> Power drum brakes were common back in those days.  In fact, drum brakes
> were standard on the 70 442!! Power front discs were optional. (W-30's
> required front discs, however.)  If your SX has drum brakes, do not be
> alarmed.  I once had a cutlass I converted over to discs.  If you are
> interested in doing this, let me know, I will tell you how to do it [if
> originality doesn't count]. (One good thing.  The spindles for either
> type is the same part number.  Don't let anyone tell you different.  So
> you don't even have to take the ball joints loose!)
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Mike Rothe
> 71 442, 69 H/O
Mike,

Thanks for the info, the guy I bought the car from gave me the front
disks, spindles, A-Arms and all including the brake booster and master
clynder off of his 70 Cutlass Supreme.  It was a really nice orginal 350
HP auto car with the orginal paint and about 60K on it.  He sold it
when  he picked up the SX that I now have, to a 17 year old kid that
worked at the same store.  To make a long story short the went out one
night and decided to take Mr. Bud Wiser with him, at lease thats our
thining, any way he rolled it and total destroyed a real nice orginal
car my friend is still kicking himself for selling it.  So I dont have
to use his spindles, that will save some time, I know I need to change
the master clynder and install a prop. valve but can I use the same
booster?

Also on the 750 Holley, is it the 3310 square flange?  If so did you use
the stock spread bore manifold? I am tring to get up to speed on the
Olds 455, I am more of mopar person this is the first 455 Olds I have
owned, I also have in the shed a 1970 Barracuda 383/2bbl Convertible one
of 59 produced and Mopar use Holley on several differnt models.

John

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:36:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 11:53 PM 3/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Being new to Old's Muscle cars I was wondering if they ever used Holley
> >carbs on any of them?  Also did they have a power drum brake system on
> >70's Cutlass's?
> >
> >John Oder
> >70 Cutlass SX W-32
> >
>
> John
>
>         Olds never used a Holley carb. They used 4-Jet's and Q-Jet's
> exclusively.  Power Drum brakes were very common on 68-72 A-body cars. They
> suck for stopping power though. You should look for c complete disc brake
> setup and convert it. You won't believe the difference.
>
> Jim Chermack
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32
> 72 442
Jim,

I have a complete set of disk brakes, booster and prop. valve off of a
70 Cutlass Supreme the guy owned before he got the SX I now have.  I was
a nice 60K CA. car with orginal paint, he made the mistake of selling it
to a 17 year old who rolled it.  He told me the previous owner of the
SX  installed the power booster for the drum brakes, only problem is
when you put much pressure on the petal at all it will about toss you
through the windshield!  So I am going to change it to disks ASAP, any
thing I should look out for when I do this??


Thanks
John

------------------------------

From: Karl <ne1469@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 13:58:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Weight - The FACTS!!!

Scott W Hensley wrote:
>
> Dan Williams wrote:
> >
> > Since spring is here, it is time to change the oil on the 442s and get
> > them out on the road.  I was just wondering what oil weight everyone
> > around here used for their Oldsmobiles.  I've always used 10W40, but I
> > seem to remember a lot of people who were 20W50 fans.
>
> 10W-40 weight oil; should not be used in any engine. The viscosity spread
> is too wide especially under severe service (i.e. heat). I know for a
> fact that GM, Briggs & Straton, Tecumseh, and Kohler will NOT honor
> their warranty if you use any brand of 10W-40 oil. If these folks
> won't stand behind their engines with 10W-40 I would be very hesitant to
> use it in any engine. 5W-30 or 20W-50 is okay. You might want to
> consider a synthetic based oil.
>
> Scott Hensley
>
> 80 Delta 88/455 Rocket

OK, if you really want to know about oil check this site out:

http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/HTML/AUTO/Fils_Auto.html

Karl
72 Cutlass -> Stepping into the 90's

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 14:07:34 -0400
Subject: Electric Cars

When I posted my response to the electric car question, and others last
night, I wasd actually thinking about my old next door neighbor.  His
everyday car, when he died, was a 1961 Plymouth station wagon, and I still
believe to this day that it was the ugliest car ever made.

However, he had a ca. 1920 Baker electric in his garage.  It was one of the
nearly all enclosed in glass phone booth looking coupes.  He happened on it
in 1941 or 1942 when gasoline was rationed, and he worked it over, and used
it as an everyday car throughout the war.  While design wise, this car was
archaic, it operated flawlessly, up to about 25mph, and would run about 100
miles on a charge, memory serving.  But then the war time speed limit was
either 20 or 25, so the Baker's top speed was not a handicap.  You could get
it and go either direction, as the driving compartment was bi-directional.

However, his number one complaint was that it cost so much to recharge it.
He had a rather healthy charging system, and it needed to be on all night.
I think it also weighed in the neighboor hood of 2.5 tons, as there were a
large number of lead/acit storage batteries in it.

Even if they build electric cars out of tissue paper, and find a low weight
high efficency battery, in the end all they are going to do is move, (as
suggested in several other contributions to this post) the problem away from
the source.  Also, gasoline engines are substantially better than 20%
efficient.  And as for hydroelectric power generation there are lots of
dams, and lots to turnstocks, and they make a lot of electricity.

According to the 1996 "The World Almanac" in 1993, the latest years for
which data was available, the U.S. consumed:

        22.00 quadrillion btu of coal
         6.83 quadrillion btu of atomic power
         3.11 quadrillion btu of hydroelectric power

So that electricity had to come from a lot of coal, a fair hit of atoms, and
darn little hydroelectric!

Also, electric cars are nowhere near as efficient as a gasoline one,
considering all aspects of energy production, use and delivery.

Very interesting to ponder.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Brendan P. Foley" <bfoley@ezl.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 14:31:38 -0400
Subject: How do I fix noisy lifters?

My lifters are getting noisy in my 350 Rocket.  Do I remove the intake =
manifold and replace them or is there some way of adjusting them?  I =
have a stock 71' Cutlass Supreme.

Thanks
Brendan Foley
St. Louis, MO.

------------------------------

From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 14:51:50 -0400
Subject: Electric cars....

There's been a lot of talk about this so i'll mention something I found
surfing the web a few months ago.
     According to the article I read, and I wish I still knew the url, a
couple of companies are now working on composite bodied gas driven electric
run cars. These cars, the article stated, are projected to get somewhere in
the neighborhood of 350+ miles per gallon, get better acceleration than a
mercedes on the 1/4, and be able to go across the company on 1, yes 1 tank
of gas. The article stated that if everything goes to schedule, as it had
been so far, that the big three COULD start producing them around 2005...

Just something for yall to ponder.. Personally, i'd never give my car
up...Even if it takes about 20 tanks of gas to get across the country..



Tracy H. Shires
81' Cutlass Rocket 350

------------------------------

From: "Scott Young" <syoung@worldgate.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 15:24:59 -0400
Subject: Ranco Suspension in '86 Olds 442?!?

Hi All!

I have an '86 Olds 442, and LOVE it!  (-:

But, a few years ago when I swapped out the stock suspension
with a Rancho GTIII kit (professionally installed) I find
that now the front tires rub on the sway bar?!?  Is there
some way of adjusting the turning radius so that this
doesn't happen?  I'm about to replace the tires this year
and would like to know that they will stay in good shape
for a few years.  Someone mentioned that the A-Frames or
the center link might need to be replaced, adjusted, moved?

Anyone have any advise that a NON-mechanical person
could use?  (-:

TIA,
     Scott.
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Scott Young             NetWorks - Network Integration Solutions
mailto:syoung@worldgate.com            voice    - (403) 461-3371
http://www.worldgate.com/~syoung/      data/fax - (403) 465-7270
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Non-Reciprocal Law of Expectations:
  Negative expectations yield negative results.
  Positive expectations yield negative results.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 16:12:58 -0400
Subject: Re: New Repro Shifter Lens has arrived

Jim,
I am going to purchase one of your repro shifter lens. I want to know how long
 it will take you to ship it. If I like it, I will order more, but if I do I
will need them pretty quick. Let me know. I also need your private Email
address to do this busines. Thank You.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 16:32:35 -0400
Subject: Re: No Subject

I need almost the whole interior for a 1970 cutlass conv. also a hood and
trunk lid as  well as a rear bumper. If you would let me know whats available
I would appreciate it.
Thanks Rick York
Boise, Id     208-389-1210

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª584
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