To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #544


oldsmobile-digest           Sunday, 2 March 1997        Volume 01 : Number 544

Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
72 Olds 88 Conv.
'86 442   TPS
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: many thanks
"metalforming" inquiries
Bent Grill Piece
Power Door Locks
307 again
turbos/RPM stress
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: 307 again
Re: '86 442   TPS
Re: turbos/RPM stress
66 Delta trunk script
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: Bent Grill Piece
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: Bent Grill Piece: ANTIQOLDS
64 Dynamic 88
OLDSMOBILE PARTS
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: '86 442 TPS
Re: still looking
Re: 1946-48 grille
Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential
Re: OLDSMOBILE PARTS
Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential
Engine Inquiry
Re: Smallblock heads
QUAD 4 H.O. 5 SPEED
Article found -- Curing Cylinder Blocks
Re: turbos/RPM stress
Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential
Re: 1946-48 grille
camshaft 101
Re: camshaft 101
Registry
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Re: 350
Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential
Manual for 63 Olds
Fusick
69 H/O a/cleaner question
Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels
Please stop sending all this E-Mail...
Re: Fusick
RE: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics
Re: Please stop sending all this E-Mail...
Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Aaron Neumann <neumann.12@osu.edu>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 15:40:23 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

>> I am going to have to go with the Wiz on this one. I think the heat is
>simply a unavoidable result of the combustion and doesn't help drive the
>turbo except from what ever expansion it gives the exaust gasses. The turbo
>would probably be a lot happier and the intake air cooler if the exaust gas
>wern't hot. I am sure some of the heat is transfered into the intake side.
>The cooler the intake side can be kept the more power the engine will make.
>
That's what an intercooler does, isn't it?  Forced intake air does come out
of the turbo hot, so for a better mass flow rate it is cooled by an
intercooler.

As for what heat has to do with turbo performance, I'd say that the heat
only increases the work done by the turbo by the expansion effects it has on
air which yield higher exhaust pressures out of the exhaust valve and into
the turbo.  I don't think heat transfer makes the turbo more effecient, but
actually less, as it undesirably heats the intake air.  Consider this:  the
amount of work done by heat transfer is in direct relation to the change in
temperature between the inlet and the outlet of the turbo.  Since the air
coming out of the turbo is nearly as hot the air going in, work do to heat
transfer is not too significant.  All this heat transfer only goes to the
body of the turbo and the intake air and so I would venture to guess that
heat plays no role in generating work (except by the expansion
characteristics I mentioned above).  I'd give all of the credit to exhaust
gas pressure.

IMO,
Aaron

P.S.  I like this thread too...turbos are very interesting.

 _____
|  |  |
|  |  | Aaron Neumann Coulumbus, OH  (614) 294-7354
|  |  | neumann.12@osu.edu  or  me250007@rcl.eng.ohio-state.edu
| /|\ | 72 Delta 88 Royale Conv. (with 400 brand spanking new horses...)
|/_|_\|                              (...though still in the stable)

------------------------------

From: NRJ1960@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 15:49:49 -0400
Subject: 72 Olds 88 Conv.

 I've been searching everywhere and cannot find floor pans for a 72 Delta 88
Royal Conv. Can anybody help?



Thanks , Sam

------------------------------

From: Steven Larry Cannon <slcannon@uncc.edu>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 15:53:09 -0400
Subject: '86 442   TPS

Hey guys,

Spring break is coming up soon and I'm hoping I get the chance to do some
things to my Cutlass.  The car still doesn't shift right at full throttle
(revs real high) and it seems to be idling too fast.  Can't tell because
factory tach is off (hope to fix that also). These symptoms are leading me
to beleive I have a bad TPS (throttle position sensor). My code scanner shows
nothing, but it didn't show anything for my oxygen sensor either and it the
porcelain part was actually cracked in two. Does any one know how long a TPS
usually lasts or know of any other symptoms that are a result of a bad TPS?

Thanks,

Steve Cannon
'86 442


P.S.  Found a great solution to the vibration in my 442.  Install one bandpass
box (with a single Rockford Fosgate 10" Punch woofer), and two Rockford
Fosgate 75W amps in the trunk.  With this you can't tell where there is a
vibration because the whole car is vibrating!

------------------------------

From: Jonah Kadish <kadijon@charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 15:51:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

I was wondering if you can get a hold of some chrome trim for a 1964
dynamic 88.
Thanks,
Jonah

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 16:53:52 -0400
Subject: Re: many thanks

As the guy who sold me my Delta says - "wait 5 years and there will be such
poor pickings amongst all the popular cars, people will  start realizing
there were other models too" - I am sure that 4 door cars will come into
popularity, well maybe last, but they will eventually.  Although I'm a 2
door fan myself, I've seen some nice 4 door Cutlass' at shows that did
surprisingly good (Olds shows of course).

Long live the big 'uns!

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@quix.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 17:08:41 -0400
Subject: "metalforming" inquiries


               After receiving many inquiries about my ad mentioning
"metalforming" i figured it would be best to post an overview of the
craftsmanship involved in this reproducing process. At best it can be
described as very meticulous, and labor intensive. The price is very
reasonable in proportion to the work involved, since our work is done out
of country. Everything from script lettering, bezels, bumper ends, trim,
can be reproduced correctly. The work is started by cutting out a pattern
in sheetmetal, shaping the pattern by heat, hammer and dolly. In most
cases, most pieces do not need to be welded. 16ga.metal is used for bumper
ends, ranging all the way to 22ga.for bezels etc.
Aluminum mouldings, stainless trim can also be reproduced. After the
pattern has been shaped, it is finished by dressing with a file, to get the
highs and lows out.In the case with steel, the item is then polished and
plated. Aluminum and stainless are polished to a mirror finish. If a trim
piece can be repaired by welding, then we recommend that it be fixed, and
replated again. Where this process really comes in handy, is in replacing
badly pitted potmetal, with a crafted piece from steel. The man doing the
work for me has been doing this for over 40 years, strictly on automobiles,
so he has it down right. Work can be done from accurate dimensional
sketches,but it is best to work from an original. The original does not
have to be perfect, since all we need is an idea of how it fits, and looks
like. Turnaround time can run from 2-6 weeks depending on complexity,and
quantities involved. All of our work is guaranteed to satisfy, or your
money back! For more info, and ballpark quotes call Mike Aldana at
619-357-0713 ,or email me at maldana@quix.net
Hope i can be of help in your restoration, with all the resources on hand.
I will follow up with a posting on our chroming, and foundry work, to
complement metalforming. sincerely   miike aldana

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 17:17:15 -0400
Subject: Bent Grill Piece

  Hey guys
                 This happened awhile ago but i never bothered to think about
the resource i have in this email list,  anyway i had  my olds (67 F85) at a
brake shop and after they had bled my front brakes and were lowering the car,
one of the shop people forgot to take the bleed tank out from under my car
and the seat pole in the bucket got caught between the bumper and the wrap
piece that goes just behind the bumper and bent the snot out of the wrap
piece.
  The best way i can describe the part is that it covers the entire lower
half of the grill area just behind the bumper and it is usually painted
silver.
   I am also looking for a F85 rear bumper for my 67 Olds --- not the supreme
or 442 unit.
   Oldsmobiles are fairly rare in the junkyards out here in Southern CA.
If anybody can help it woudl be muchly appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 18:38:38 -0400
Subject: Power Door Locks

Oldsmopeople,
YOu can retrofit a vacuum or electric system to just about any olds, if you're
willing to cut the door panels and install the switch. Usually you can find
'em in C*ddy's, other Olds's or Bu*cks. I think these were vacuum up 'til
about 68 or so when they went to electric solenoids for the PDL and trunk
release functions. My 66 has a nice simple vacuum system with the switches in
the chrome arms.

This is actually a soem big Olds swap trivia. 66 98 convertible door panels
contain a cast pot metal arm which contains the seat, window and PDL
switches. These are exactly the same item as a 62 or 63 C*addy Coupe DeVille.
In my case I got both arms from the Cad with the right holes cut for the
4 window, seat and PDL vacuum switches. Had 'em rechromed and bingo factory
looking PDL. Maybe the only 98 conv. in the country with this, uh,
option. Fun toy actually.

cf

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 17:42:23 -0400
Subject: 307 again

Well guys, I bought myself a new compression tester and checked out the 307.
On a cold engine I got: 1-155, 3-150 5-150, 7-145 2-155, 4-145, 6-148, 8-148
 sounds good huh?  I rechecked it warm and saw the numbers drop off 5-20 ª.
I added some oil to the worst two and saw the compression go up 35 and 40 ª.


When I started it up, I remembered what oil smoke looked like!

I'm not used to seeing an oil burner with this much compression but the 35-40ª
 difference sounds like rings yes?

I value your opinions

Pat

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 19:11:56 -0400
Subject: turbos/RPM stress

Turbochargers do use the gas flowing through them to spin their turbines,
but it is the "heat" in these gases that operate the turbines.  The energy
of combustion contained in these gases is what is transferred to the
turbine blades, making them turn.  A way to think of "heat" is to consider
it a TRANSFER of kinetic energy(KE), rather than as the energy itself.
The temperature of the exhaust gases is very high, meaning that the gases
contain a lot of kinetic energy.  After all, "temperature" is really a
measure of microscopic KE; ie-how much energy the
atoms and molecules of a substance contain, on an average.
These gas molecules, when they pass through the turbine, are bouncing
against the turbine blades and transferring some of their KE to the
blades.  That is what causes the turbine to rotate.
So really, to touch on an earlier subject, engine power gains by the
engine as a result of the turbocharging is not free power but a more
efficient use of the gasoline's energy.  Instead of all the exhaust energy
being wasted, it is put to use running the turbo's turbine.
And, since "work" is another term for "energy", the gases are doing work
on the turbine.  So it really isn't free horsepower that an engine gets
from a turbo.

On another related topic, why is an intake manifold-mounted blower
called a "supercharger", and a gas driven turbine called a "turbocharger",
since they both "supercharge" the incoming air? By supercharging I mean
they both create a higher-than-normal intake pressure condition for the
engine.  Couldn't they both be accurately called superchargers?  Or are
they labelled differently just to distinguish between a gas driven-charger
and a belt-driven charger?

                           Jim Townsend

                           '90 Calais

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 19:53:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

At 03:51 PM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I was wondering if you can get a hold of some chrome trim for a 1964
>dynamic 88.
>Thanks,
>Jonah
>
Jonah
                Sorry I don't deal in the big cars at all.

JIm Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:00:04 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 again

At 05:42 PM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Well guys, I bought myself a new compression tester and checked out the
307.  On
>a cold engine I got: 1-155, 3-150 5-150, 7-145 2-155, 4-145, 6-148, 8-148
>sounds good huh?  I rechecked it warm and saw the numbers drop off 5-20 ª.  I
 >added some oil to the worst two and saw the compression go up 35 and 40 ª.
 > >When I started it up, I remembered what oil smoke looked like! > >I'm not
used to seeing an oil burner with this much compression but the 35-40ª
>difference sounds like rings yes? > >I value your opinions > >Pat


Pat

        With an increase of that much it is definitely rings. There can be
no questions about it. Sorry it sounds like your going to have to go though
it to do it right.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:03:33 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 442   TPS

Steve,

I'm having problems with (I think) the TPS on may '90 Calais.  The engine
(Quad4) has been running very rough; I mean, it has a lot of
harsh vibration that tends to rattle the dash in the car, and everything
else, for that matter!  It's very obnoxious!  The idle when the car was
running normal was at about 875 rpm,
and was pleasant, smooth, and solid as a rock.  Now, since I've had
this problem, it'll idle
at about 1100 rpm, and not always very steady.  And when the car is hot
and has been running for a while, the idle will sometimes settle down to
about 850-900 rpm but then it is as harsh as ever.  Also, at steady
throttle the engine tends to surge, and will sometimes jump a few hundred
rpm's when I release the clutch.  Not only that but the engine doesn't
have the punch or the response it had before.  Seems to have a little
less gas mileage, too.
When this problem started (about 40,000 miles ago!) I checked the on-board
computer diagnosis and it gave no
indication that anything was wrong.  I also took the car to several
mechanics, including an Olds dealer, and they all said they couldn't find
anything wrong.  (The dealer found a cracked coil bracket, which I
replaced, but that didn't solve the problem.)  One guy said it might be
something in the fuel system, but that was all he could say.
Then I read a couple of months ago about a Throttle Position Sensor, which
I'd never heard of before.  The Haynes repair manual said that a bad TPS
could cause some of the symptoms I described so I'm thinking that I might
have a bad TPS.  I haven't had time to check it out, though, 'cuz I've
been very busy with school.  Spring Break's coming up soon so that's when
I'll check it out.

Just FYI, Steve.(And everyone else, of course!)
Good luck!

               Jim

               '90 Calais

On Sat, 1 Mar 1997, Steven Larry Cannon wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> Spring break is coming up soon and I'm hoping I get the chance to do some
things to my Cutlass.  The car still doesn't shift right at full throttle
(revs real high) and it seems to be idling too fast.  Can't tell because
factory tach is off (hope to fix that also). > These symptoms are leading me
to beleive I have a bad TPS (throttle position sensor). My code scanner shows
nothing, but it didn't show anything for my oxygen sensor either and it the
porcelain part was actually cracked in two. > Does any one know how long a TPS
usually lasts or know of any other symptoms that are a result of a bad TPS? >
 > Thanks, > > Steve Cannon > '86 442 > > > P.S.  Found a great solution
to the vibration in my 442.  Install one bandpass box (with a single Rockford
Fosgate 10" Punch woofer), and two Rockford Fosgate 75W amps in the trunk.
With this you can't tell where there is a vibration because the whole car is
vibrating! > >

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 11:28:27 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stress

>
>
>On another related topic, why is an intake manifold-mounted blower
>called a "supercharger", and a gas driven turbine called a "turbocharger",
>since they both "supercharge" the incoming air? By supercharging I mean
>they both create a higher-than-normal intake pressure condition for the
>engine.  Couldn't they both be accurately called superchargers?  Or are
>they labelled differently just to distinguish between a gas driven-charger
>and a belt-driven charger?
I read somewhere that a turbocharger is technically a turbo-supercharger.
The name evolved into turbocharger because it was easier to spit out.
Aparently the turbo- part has something to do with the fact that it is a
supercharger driven by exhaust gasses running through a turbine.

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:18:35 -0400
Subject: 66 Delta trunk script

I have a queston for the big car guys. My 66 Delta convertable has two
small holes in the left side of the trunk. Is there suppposed to be a
script or something there or were these put there by a *ª@&*ª!! dealer to
put his name on the car? If it is supposed to have something there does
anyone one have the piece that is suposed to be there?
Thanks in advance
Walter

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:40:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

> I have a queston for the big car guys. My 66 Delta convertable has two
> small holes in the left side of the trunk. Is there suppposed to be a
> script or something there or were these put there by a *ª@&*ª!! dealer to
> put his name on the car? If it is supposed to have something there does
> anyone one have the piece that is suposed to be there?
> Thanks in advance
> Walter

According to the body moulding charts in the parts catalogs, there is
nothing on either side of the trunk lid on the 66 Delta 88 convertible.
Probably those are dealer holes.  Starting in 67, you start to see script
on the trunk ("Delta 88", "Ninety-Eight", "Oldsmobile", etc.), but it looks
like it's always on right side.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:40:30 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

If the holes are on the _left_ side, this is your aforementioned ^%@^%!!
dealer. If the holes are on the right side, this is where I have a
"Ninety Eight" script, preceded by a rather nice rocket. Just a thought
, but maybe you could check with Fusick and see if they have some nice
mid-60's "Starfire" or other script that would cover the holes. Other
than that, happy body work. Sorry to hear bout your problem.
cf

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:53:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

Hi Jim
  You mentioned you may be reproducing the indicater for 70-72 cutlass floor
shift console, I will buy several off you if you do as I have people looking
as well as several consoles that need them.

Everett ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:52:27 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

Graham,
Good point on checking the Fisher Body Manual, I was guessing. Still if
there's nothing for either side for 1966, then he could potentially
employ a different year 88 script to use the holes. Probably cheaper than
filling and repainting the deck lid, no?

cf

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:55:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

In a message dated 97-02-28 18:40:51 EST, you write:

> Hear, hear. I think before tackling this it will be very useful to check
>  out a similar car with the PW option; there are lots of details to haggle
>  with and trace. It _is_ a bolt-in installation, when all is said and done,
>  but an awful lot of the required work is behind the scenes. Good luck.
>

I've been contemplating the installation of power windows in my '72 C/S
convertible for a number of years.  I've found a complete '71 C/S hardtop in
a salvage yard nearby.  My plans are to purchase the car for no more than
$250, then strip all the power window parts this spring and summer, sell the
car back to the yard owner for probably $50 (car will never leave the yard),
and tear out the interior of the convertible and install the assemblies over
the winter.  The only thing I am afraid of is having the holes cut in the
door jambs and the doors.  I want it to look totally factory, can't do it
myself, and can't find anyone interested in cutting up my convertible.

I think someone on this list told me that the non-power window and power
window regulators are different, but the convertible and hardtop regulators
are the same for either kind of setup, so I should be able to replace the
standard conv. regulators with the power coupe regulators with little
problem.  I am anticipating this to be very labor intensive and I'm sure it
won't be a weekend job.  With patience it shoudn't be too difficult.  Window
switches should mount in the old crank holes, and look like they'll be just
big enought that you won't see the whole anymore.  Won't have any hold
problems when I decided to replace the interior panels down the road.

And, the donor car has an electric rear window defogger if anyone's
interested...

Paul

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 21:01:14 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

  Please forgive my complete ignorance on this, but who or what is Fusik???

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 21:13:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Bent Grill Piece

Hi 67 cutlass owner
  as for the bumber & parts for your Cutlass call Bill at Originality Plus in
Rancho Cucamonga Ca. He is about 80 miles east of Los Angeles
1-909-945-5466
He specilizes in Olds bumbers

Tell him Everett from Rhode Island referred you via internet, he is very good

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 21:38:54 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

Fusick Automotive
22 Thompson Rd
East Windsor Ct 06088-0655
1-860-623-1589

Mike & Robin Fusick have the largest & Oldest Oldsmobile Manufacturer of
replacement parts for Oldsmobile from 1935-1977  He also has a huge supply of
NOS parts (new old stock). I have known and done business with him for over
twenty years. Very reputable


Everett Horton

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 21:59:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Bent Grill Piece: ANTIQOLDS

  Thanks for the name and number

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 22:15:51 -0400
Subject: 64 Dynamic 88

Jonah
  I saw a message that you are looking for chrome trim for a 64 Dynamic 88
I deal in Antique and Classic  Oldsmobile Parts
  I am sure I will be able help you get what you need new and or used. Please
advise exactly what car you have and what you need and I will let you what I
have and the prices

Everett Horton  1-401-435-7139


E & G Automotive
PO Box 16095
9 Newman Ave
Rumford, R.I. 02916

Other inquires welcome

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 22:36:12 -0400
Subject: OLDSMOBILE PARTS

ANTIQE AND CLASSIC OLDSMOBILE PARTS. THOUSANDS OF NOS PARTS FROM 1950 to
1975. NINETY EIGHT, EIGHTY EIGHTY, CUTLASS, VISTA CRUISER. I HAVE BEEN
COLLECTING FOR TWENTY YEARS AND JUST BOUGHT A SEMI LOAD FROM THE MIDWEST IT
WILL TAKE TIME TO IDENTIFY BUT I WILL HAVE LISTS AVAILABLE, PLEASE SEND ME
YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS AND WHAT  YOUR LOOKING FOR  AND I WILL REPLY
OR JUST E-MAIL ME

Everett Horton             E & G Automotive
1-401-435-7139          P O Box 16095
                                 9 Newman Ave
                                 Rumford, R.I. 02916

Looking forward to serving the people on this list service


------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 22:37:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

Thanks Chris and Graham,  I was afraid that was what you were going to tell
me. I think I will take your advice and try to find some script to cover
the holes. Like Graham said there is nothing on the right side so It
wouldn't look out of place to anyone but a expert Olds big car person and
there arent many of them around here.
Walter






------------------------------

From: James244@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 22:40:06 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 442 TPS

with my 86 442, the idiot light went off when the TPS senser was bad.

James
86 442
69 442

------------------------------

From: James244@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 22:43:31 -0400
Subject: Re: still looking

can you get me an older Part ª for that lens, if so i might have one.

James Newton

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 22:42:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 1946-48 grille

At 12:27 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> I'm looking for a 1946-48 Olds grille in any repairable condition.
>>
>>Glenn
>>'69 4-4-2
>>
>>I may have talked to you before, but I know a guy that has a '47 grille
>that is perfect - no cracks - that needs plated, but he wants $200.
>
>

 Hi Bill,

         Do you know if it's still available?  A buddy of mine is looking
for one and I'm trying to help him out.    Yeah... we go back to the pros
and cons of using an Olds motor for your project.  How are you making out?

 Thanks Bill,
 Glenn Connors
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 23:30:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential

   Oldsmobilers:
For the benefit of those not in the same weather pattern as the greater
Chicago area, today was nice! So I finally got to do most of the
miscellaneous maintenance that "Soylent Green" has desperately needed for
quite a while.

 A day spent with the Oldsmobile is a very good day.

  As always, the days events have generated some questions for me to put to
the Oldsgurus.

1) For owners of 1960's era 330's & 350cid Oldsmobiles: What part number of
oil filter should I be using? I know that as long as I change oil regularly
it shouldn't make much difference, but read on. The first filter I swapped on
was an STP 7, for future purchases I retained the box that said what all the
equivalent filters were. Naturally, different stores carry different brands,
so no more STP. Purolator's reference book recommended its L30005 or L20033
(? about 2nd ª) and both were in stock. Both the Purolator box and the STP
indicate equivalence to the same filter ª's of Wix (51049), Motocraft (FL-2),
Fram (PH-10,11), and Lee (LF-6,7). Some of these were not in stock (the
specific filter ª, brands were carried) but those that were referenced
filters that were different sizes and different ª's of the same brand. So its
likely that I'm reading way too much into these things. For my peice of mind,
can anyone tell me definitely what is used by a 1965 330cid 2bbl?

2) (Like that wasn't enough.) With all I did to the car today, I thought
about the rear differential. I have the original owner's manual and the
service manual, but since only 2-3 of the dealership maintenance coupons were
used, I suspect that the oil in the differential must be really old (if there
is any in there). I know nothing about this topic. If I replace the
differential oil, what should I replace it with? I saw 80W-90 and 95W-140
today, as well as STP's gear oil. Recommendations and comments on this
greatly appreciated.

3) My wipers work, but the washer fluid pump is kaput, I can hear it working
(fluid pump noises) but nothing ever comes out. What should I look for? Is
this a system that needs to be primed?

4) I finally moved the power steering support (changing belts) and saw 'A' on
the head. I don't need the full rundown, that happens too often here. Would
someone briefly mention the charateristics of 'A' heads and possibility of
grinding/porting for more efficiency, especially any disadvantages

Finally, I found Watter Wetter at Parts USA, thanks again to those who
discussed the virtues of the hot-pink solution.

Sorry about the length here, but I did get a lot done today, and now I need
to create a spreadsheet file containing all the parts numbers of things
compatible with my vehicle.

Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Dynamic 88

Duct taping squirt bottles to my hood...

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 23:38:30 -0400
Subject: Re: OLDSMOBILE PARTS

At 10:36 PM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>ANTIQE AND CLASSIC OLDSMOBILE PARTS. THOUSANDS OF NOS PARTS FROM 1950 to
>1975. NINETY EIGHT, EIGHTY EIGHTY, CUTLASS, VISTA CRUISER. I HAVE BEEN
>COLLECTING FOR TWENTY YEARS AND JUST BOUGHT A SEMI LOAD FROM THE MIDWEST IT
>WILL TAKE TIME TO IDENTIFY BUT I WILL HAVE LISTS AVAILABLE, PLEASE SEND ME
>YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS AND WHAT  YOUR LOOKING FOR  AND I WILL REPLY
>OR JUST E-MAIL ME
>
>Everett Horton             E & G Automotive
>1-401-435-7139          P O Box 16095
>                                 9 Newman Ave
>                                 Rumford, R.I. 02916
>
>Looking forward to serving the people on this list service
>
>
>
Any bumpers for a '77 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door???

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 00:19:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential

At 11:30 PM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>   Oldsmobilers:
>For the benefit of those not in the same weather pattern as the greater
>Chicago area, today was nice! So I finally got to do most of the
>miscellaneous maintenance that "Soylent Green" has desperately needed for
>quite a while.
>
> A day spent with the Oldsmobile is a very good day.
>
>  As always, the days events have generated some questions for me to put to
>the Oldsgurus.
>
>1) For owners of 1960's era 330's & 350cid Oldsmobiles: What part number of
>oil filter should I be using? I know that as long as I change oil regularly
>it shouldn't make much difference, but read on. The first filter I swapped on
>was an STP 7, for future purchases I retained the box that said what all the
>equivalent filters were. Naturally, different stores carry different brands,
>so no more STP. Purolator's reference book recommended its L30005 or L20033
>(? about 2nd ª) and both were in stock. Both the Purolator box and the STP
>indicate equivalence to the same filter ª's of Wix (51049), Motocraft (FL-2),
>Fram (PH-10,11), and Lee (LF-6,7). Some of these were not in stock (the
>specific filter ª, brands were carried) but those that were referenced
>filters that were different sizes and different ª's of the same brand. So its
>likely that I'm reading way too much into these things. For my peice of mind,
>can anyone tell me definitely what is used by a 1965 330cid 2bbl?

***** Normally I try to use oil filters of the same manufacturer that it
came with. The specified AC filter is either PF24 or PF30 They are basically
the same filter but the PF30 is the older part number. For the high
performance nuts Mondello recommends PF31 if you can find them. They are
suppose to be for Ramblers but they have more filter arear hold more oil and
have a lower bypass pressure. This is so oil doesn't bypass the filter with
a high volume or pressure pump.


>
>2) (Like that wasn't enough.) With all I did to the car today, I thought
>about the rear differential. I have the original owner's manual and the
>service manual, but since only 2-3 of the dealership maintenance coupons were
>used, I suspect that the oil in the differential must be really old (if there
>is any in there). I know nothing about this topic. If I replace the
>differential oil, what should I replace it with? I saw 80W-90 and 95W-140
>today, as well as STP's gear oil. Recommendations and comments on this
>greatly appreciated.

******Your owners manual will specify 80-90w gear lube.
>
>3) My wipers work, but the washer fluid pump is kaput, I can hear it working
>(fluid pump noises) but nothing ever comes out. What should I look for? Is
>this a system that needs to be primed?
>
>4) I finally moved the power steering support (changing belts) and saw 'A' on
>the head. I don't need the full rundown, that happens too often here. Would
>someone briefly mention the charateristics of 'A' heads and possibility of
>grinding/porting for more efficiency, especially any disadvantages
>
****** A heads are not noted for there performance. Exhaust port is weak.
Also has older style rocker arm assm.

>Finally, I found Watter Wetter at Parts USA, thanks again to those who
>discussed the virtues of the hot-pink solution.
>
>Sorry about the length here, but I did get a lot done today, and now I need
>to create a spreadsheet file containing all the parts numbers of things
>compatible with my vehicle.
>
>Karl Aune
>Chicago, IL
>1965 Dynamic 88
>
>Duct taping squirt bottles to my hood...
>
>

------------------------------

From: DanBSmith1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 01:10:51 -0400
Subject: Engine Inquiry

Today I found an engine that is supposed to be a 455/390 from a 68 Hurst
Olds.  The motor is red, has 396021F on the front of the block,  has 68 on
the back of the block(flywheel area), has C heads, but does not have the
2-digit code on the oil filler tube.  Is this the real thing?  It is complete
in that it has the carb, alt, a/c comp, p/s pump and all brackets.  The guy
wants $ 1,100.00 for it.  What do you think?

Dan

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 02:16:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Smallblock heads

 If, (based on the single reply I have read(what, is everyone on dalnet?))
'A' heads are as relatively inefficient as Mr. Chermac says, then it appears
that I am now in the market for a better pair of Oldsmobile smallblock heads
(unless anyone can comment on the potential for improvement on 'A' heads.
Feel free to contact me via my personal E-address (web page still gearing
up). And as always, thanks much to Oldsgurus everywhere.

Karl Aune
Chicago, IL
1965 Dynamic 88

"Sic semper ductapus"     Thus; always use duct tape.

------------------------------

From: Troy Stork <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 02:52:46 -0400
Subject: QUAD 4 H.O. 5 SPEED

hello,

I am looking for a Quad 4 HO 5 speed.  If anyone has any information about
one please e-mail me.  I would prefer a 91 or 92 grand-am or calais.

Thanks,

Troy Stork

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 03:15:32 -0400
Subject: Article found -- Curing Cylinder Blocks

  Since i had my books out, i thought it would be interesting to post this.
 It's from S-A Design Books 1991 Dodge/Plymouth Performance

  Stress relieving.

  The Chrysler circle track kit car engine manual, tech bulletin ª110,
includes an excellent discussion of basic block preparation and the following
stress relieving prcedures are included therein.

  Remove the main bearing caps, clean all joining faces, reassemble and
torque to specifications.  The block should then be heated (with the caps
mounted) to 1050F and held at this temperature for two hours.  It should then
be furnace cooled to 500F at a cooling rate not to exceed 200 degrees per
hour.  The block can then be allowed to air cool until normal temerature is
achieved.

  After stress relieving, new cam bearings and core plugs should be installed
and the old main bearing cap bolts should be replaced.  The piston bores can
then be honed and the decks machine cut to insure that they are flat and
parallel to the crank centerline.  The main bearing bores will also have to
be checked and bored or honed if out of alignment.

  Just another tidibit to help Olds Engines out

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 03:33:24 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stress

At 11:28 AM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>On another related topic, why is an intake manifold-mounted blower
>>called a "supercharger", and a gas driven turbine called a "turbocharger",
>>since they both "supercharge" the incoming air? By supercharging I mean
>>they both create a higher-than-normal intake pressure condition for the
>>engine.  Couldn't they both be accurately called superchargers?  Or are
>>they labelled differently just to distinguish between a gas driven-charger
>>and a belt-driven charger?

A 6-71 supercharger is normally run directly from the engine, not by belts;
ie, it's in the camshaft gear system.

The Wiz

The damn little I knew about supercharging before.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 07:16:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential

On Sat, 1 Mar 1997 KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 1) For owners of 1960's era 330's & 350cid Oldsmobiles: What part number of
> oil filter should I be using?

I get AC PF-24 filters for my 350. The only x-ref I can recall is Fram,
PH-25.

> 3) My wipers work, but the washer fluid pump is kaput, I can hear it working
> (fluid pump noises) but nothing ever comes out. What should I look for? Is
> this a system that needs to be primed?

My '64 Buick is the same, and the replacement pump listed by GM and the
catalog places does not fit. I can't understand that, but there you are. I
tried replacing the little valve body assembly on the bottom of the pump,
but with no luck. Open to suggestions!

> 4) I finally moved the power steering support (changing belts) and saw 'A'
on > the head. I don't need the full rundown, that happens too often here.
Would > someone briefly mention the charateristics of 'A' heads and
possibility of > grinding/porting for more efficiency, especially any
disadvantages

Uhh... this is a 330? A '65 330 should have a "2", not a letter. Casting
ID codes for heads are supposed to be letter codes for big blocks, number
codes for small blocks. Confused...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 09:24:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 1946-48 grille

>At 12:27 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>> I'm looking for a 1946-48 Olds grille in any repairable condition.
>>>
>>>Glenn
>>>'69 4-4-2
>>>
>>>I may have talked to you before, but I know a guy that has a '47 grille
>>that is perfect - no cracks - that needs plated, but he wants $200.
>>
>>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
>         Do you know if it's still available?  A buddy of mine is looking
>for one and I'm trying to help him out.    Yeah... we go back to the pros
>and cons of using an Olds motor for your project.  How are you making out?
>
> Thanks Bill,
> Glenn Connors
> '69 4-4-2
>
>Glenn

Yes, I'm sure he still has it.  But he lives in Burley and I am getting on
the big bird this morning for Yuma, AZ and won't be back til the 10th.  If
you want, I can call him after I get back.

Yes, I decided to go with the 455.  The car is progressing nicely.  455 &
TH400 are installed with sanitary mounts fabricated by a couple of guys in
Nampa.  They also installed GM power rack and pinion steering and mid-sized
GM disc brakes.  I am going with stock 3:64 rear end.  I pick the car up in
early april after brake plumbing and vintage air installation.  Then it is
tear down, sandblast, clean and paint.

I will e-mail you after I talk to the guy with the grille.

Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 08:52:36 -0400
Subject: camshaft 101

Anyone here up for giving beginning camshaft lessons?  I thought I knew
something about them but I'm finding I'm pretty dumb.  I'm not familiar with
the term "lobe centers".  What does what?

Pat

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 11:42:34 -0400
Subject: Re: camshaft 101

I am sure there are several people here that can explain lobe centers,
overlap, duration, and all the other terms, but probably the best place to
learn is from the cam companys themselvs. Most of the cataloges have
detailed infromation with pictures. Pictures can make all the numbers and
mumbo jumbo make sense. Comp cams also has a website that has lots of
infromation includeing their camquest software that helps you pick the
right cam for your application. Find it at    http:// www.compcams.com/
 Walter
> Anyone here up for giving beginning camshaft lessons?  I thought I knew
> something about them but I'm finding I'm pretty dumb.  I'm not familiar
with the
> term "lobe centers".  What does what?
>
> Pat
>

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 11:40:26 -0400
Subject: Registry

I apparently lost the address of the mail list registry.  If someone
could post it, it would be greatly appreciated.

TIA
Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 11:35:35 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
>
> I've found a complete '71 C/S hardtop in
> a salvage yard nearby.  My plans are to purchase the car for no more than
> $250, then strip all the power window parts this spring and summer, sell the
> car back to the yard owner for probably $50 (car will never leave the yard),

<snip>

> And, the donor car has an electric rear window defogger if anyone's
> interested...

YES!  Don't you remember the discussion a few months back about adding
one?  That was me that started it.  If memory serves me well, your in
PA.  I'm located in MD and would not mind driving up to get it
(depending ~where~ in PA you are).  Email me direct.

TIA
Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Robert F Turner)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 12:06:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 350

On Fri, 28 Feb 1997 18:10:04 -0400 prlmteed@idcnet.com writes:
>I need an educated guess from someone's valuable experience.  Take an
>otherwise
>stock late 70's 350 and stuff a new cam in in with the following
>specs: lift
>.448I .472E  duration 270I 280E.  What sort of machine would that
>give, assuming
>the carb is tweaked to make it run.  Will it idle?  Power guesses?  It
>sounds
>maybe a little radical to me.
>
>Pat
>
Pat: I'm running a 492 lift on the intake and exhaust, a 110 degree lobe
separation, a 292/282 duration and it's in a 330. It idles FINE !!  I
have lots of power, especially after 3000 rpm. I also am running the cam
timing 4 degrees advanced. 0-60 mph times are around 6.5 seconds with a
2.73 rear end. Quarter mile times are in the high 13's at 108 mph. I need
a different ratio rear gear and that would help my times, because it is a
little slow off the line. I can out run any stock 350 w/ 4bbl and have
blown away a F*rebird with a 400 motor in it. I got the cam custom ground
from Schneider Racing Cams in San Diego, Ca. Don't know their ph number,
but Directory assistance would have it. Good Luck !!!

Rob Turner
Katana72           It's NOT your Daddy's Oldsmobile!!!
Hastings, MN

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Robert F Turner)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 12:19:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential

On Sat, 1 Mar 1997 23:30:22 -0400 KarlAunan@aol.com writes:
>   Oldsmobilers:
For my peice of mind,
can anyone tell me definitely what is used by a 1965 330cid 2bbl?
>Karl Aune
>Chicago, IL
>1965 Dynamic 88
 I have a 65 330 motor in my 72 Cutlass and I use a Fram PH25. There's
another fram filter that is called for for the 350 motors 70-? in the
books. The reason I use the PH25 is due to the fact that the longer
filter won't fit because of my headers.No probs with the ph25 filter at
all and as far as I know, you can use any filter for an Olds 350 motor on
your 330.

Rob Turner
Katana72           It's NOT your Daddy's Oldsmobile!!!!
Hastings, MN

------------------------------

From: Teresa <tstump@pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 12:31:14 -0400
Subject: Manual for 63 Olds

Recently someone mailed me with information on a manual for a
63 Dynamic 88. I have since been setting up a new computer, and lost
all of the information.  If you still have it, PLEASE mail me again! We
definately want it.  Sorry for the inconvenience!
Thanks,
Jim and Teresa Stump
tstump@pacbell.net

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 13:15:13 -0400
Subject: Fusick

Fusick is an obsolete Olds parts supplier, located in Windsor Locks, Ct.
They have a great catalog of stuff for postwar olds right up into the
60's and 70's. I don't have their phone handy, but it's in the (860)
area code. Good place, knowledgeable guys and as good a selection of
obsolete parts as I know of. Everything from Rubber parts to correct
decals.
cf

>  Please forgive my complete ignorance on this, but who or what is Fusik???

------------------------------

From: Mike Shokouhi <mikevs1@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 20:21:48 -0400
Subject: 69 H/O a/cleaner question

Does anyone know if it's true that some of the ram air parts on '69 H/Os
are the same parts used on the CobraJet motors?

Thnx,

Mike Shokouhi

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 13:42:31 -0400
Subject: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

Remember the discussion here a couple of months ago about the various
wheel options for the mid-80s and earlier cars? Today I saw a Custom
Cruiser wagon with a set of Olds factory alloy wheels -- the same wheels
used on Buicks of the early 80's, alloys with a series of "ribs"
radiating out from the center at different heights. These had centers
with large Rocket logos on them. Never, ever saw a car with those wheels
before. The car itself looked real good, so much so that I dropped a note
on the windshield for the owner. Might be interesting if he calls!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Eric W. Bennett" <EWBENNETT@EWB.mv.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 13:38:18 -0400
Subject: Please stop sending all this E-Mail...

Please suspend sending all this E-Mail to my ID.

I wanted to receive news about you page but this is a little
overwhelming and I have been unnable to function my E-mail with all the
clutter.

If I need to do anything else to make this stop please let me know.
Thank you,

Eric Bennett

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 13:42:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

At 01:15 PM 3/2/97 -0400, you wrote:

>Fusick is an obsolete Olds parts supplier

Interesting wording...

What exactly is obsolete?  When I first read this, I thought is was Fusick
that was obsolete!



Fusick is a supplier of obsolete Olds parts.  They are modern, for the most
part.  I've ordered from them on a number of occasions, and I've not been
disappointed.  My only gripe with them, and perhaps this does make them a
bit "obsolete," is that they do not take credit card orders over the phone.
 You call them up to inquire about the availability and/or price of a part,
they give you the answer, and then they're perfectly to hang up on you, a
customer who has a credit card in hand, ready to send them some business,
and instead they want you to fill out a written order and mail it in.  They
claim this is to prevent misunderstandings about what you specifically
order.  To me, that's nonsense, and a hell of a way to do business,
particularly when 99% of your business is by mail shipment to customers
around the country and not from a walk-in storefront.  If they can't take
an order straight off of the phone without botching it up, they oughtn't be
_in_ the business.

But then it's their business to run as they see fit, and they seem to be
able to make money at it, so who am I to tell them how to run it.  I will
say, though, that there were one or two instances where, in the time
between hanging up the phone with them after making an inquiry and mailing
out the order, I've changed my mind about ordering something.  Or I've
taken a minute or two to check another source, found the price the same or
close enough, but ordered it immediately because _that_ vendor was in the
20th century and took my credit card order over the phone.



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:11:25 -0400
Subject: RE: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC2701.A3C9E760
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ray ,
    I have the schmatics and installation instructions for the vacuum =
washer system for a '55 Chevy. For that car, they published a booklet =
entitled "Accessories Installation Reference Manual". I have not been =
able to find such a book for the '56 Olds. I've asked Al Sandy, who has =
come up with some amazing things, and he does not know of one. The Olds =
parts books and shop manual did not have this info.
    However, I believe the Chevy info will be essentially the same as =
your Olds. The components may just be located in different places. I =
have copied the 2 pages for you.
    If you will give me your address I'll stick this in the mail to you. =
If you have other questions I'll be glad to help if I can. I have a very =
original '56 Olds with this on it so I can go look at the car if you =
need.

- ----------
From: chray@Logical.Net[SMTP:chray@Logical.Net]
Sent: Friday, February 28, 1997 4:17 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

HELP!!!!!!!

I am looking for the vacuum schematics for the windshield wiper washer =
fluid
system for my 1956 Oldsmobile.  Does anyone have a copy of this?  Does
anyone know where I can obtain a copy of this?  Is anyone familiar with =
this
system of hoses?  Please e-mail me at chray@logical.net with any =
information
at all.  Thank you...

Ray Rettig
1956 Rocket 88 4-door sedan.





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From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 14:10:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Please stop sending all this E-Mail...

Eric,
Send a message to the Greg or the list with the word "unsubscribe" in the
body of the message. That should put a stop to it. Or you could buy
Eudora, setup a filter which will buck all the mail from this list
into a folder which you can review at your leisure.
cf

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 10:41:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

> wheel options for the mid-80s and earlier cars? Today I saw a Custom
> Cruiser wagon with a set of Olds factory alloy wheels -- the same wheels
> used on Buicks of the early 80's, alloys with a series of "ribs"
> radiating out from the center at different heights. These had centers

I think these were optional from '88-'90.  They appear to be a very rare
piece indeed!  That Custom Cruiser should have had a wide brushed
stainless steel moulding between the back door and rear side glass, a
centre high-mounted stoplamp, and rear seat shoulder belts.  If it
also had the front door-mounted shoulder belts, it would be a 1990.

Kevin Wong

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª544
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