
oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 25 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 577

197? Salon what?
dissapointing trip to a yard
turn signal lever repl.
New subscriber
Re: SodaBlasting 
Re: wheels for Calais
Re: 2 ? and a part 
Re: 69 H/O Rear Code 
Re: 3.73 speedo gearpl.
paint clear coat problems - 86 "98" -Reply
Re: Air Cleaner paint 
Re: paint clear coat problems - 86 "98" -Reply
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central! 
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Re: 1979 455
Re: Good Welder
Welder suggestion
Re[2]: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central! 
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: New Member
Re: Tachometer question
Re[2]: Good Welder 
Re: Good Welder 
Re: New subscriber 
For Sale 1967 Cutlass (DETAILS) Pt. II
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: turn signal lever repl. (long)
Information wanted! 
Re: Air Cleaner paint
wanted 1984 chassis manual
Re: Tachometer question 
Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I 
Race Car Model Kit For Sale (3/25)
Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central! 
Re: Good Welder 
Re: Re[2]: Good Welder 
rear window
hood moulding needed
Re: turn signal lever repl. 
Re: New subscriber 
Re: Tachometer question
Re: Trofeo Auto Lock Problem
Re: Tachometer question
Re: Air Cleaner paint
Re: 3.73 speedometer gear
70 SX for sale 
Re: 1954 Oldsmobile
IRC 
Re: New Member
Loose tilt steering wheel 
Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I 
Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder] 
Re: New subscriber 
Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I
Re: Tachometer question
Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder] 
Re: Loose tilt steering wheel
re:  air compressor deal 
Re: Loose tilt steering wheel 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 11:22:43 -0400
Subject: 197? Salon what?

I saw a car yesterday that I am wondering about.  It was a mid 1970's
Cutlass Salon.  It had "Limited Edition" script on the trunk and fenders,
along with one of those "flag strips" like they had on the Cieras more
recently.  What exactly was this?  It seemed to just be an appearance
package, as I didn't see any difference between the body from a regular
car.  The car was black, and the interior was a maroon color.  Was this a
motor option as well?  How rare is this car.  It looked to be in pretty
good shape, with need of a bit of interior work.  If I see it again, I
might leave a note if anybody is interested, it could probably be bought
for a song...

I also saw what was left of a silver (early style) Hurst/Olds (1968?).
It was on the back of a rollback, don't know whether or not it was
original, but I can tell you that it must've been one h*ll of a wreck!
Moment of silence please...

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 11:45:30 -0400
Subject: dissapointing trip to a yard

	I thought I would share with you this dissapointing experience I
had this morning.  
	I found out last week my morning class was cancelled for today. So
I figured I would finally take a trip out to this one yard I've been
meaning to go to.  It's one of few that actually advertise that they let
you pull your own parts.  It's about 45 minutes away so the only time I
could go would normally be on a Saturday and every time I would make an
early morning attempt to go I was too hungover or the weather was crummy.
So I was finally happy to go today(besides it's really nice out today here
in RI).
	I get there and go to the office to ask where the mid 80's Olds
are kept,
and he says we don't have any.  From the looks of this place when I drove
up it looked huge so I figured it had to have something there.  The guy
ellaborates and says they are in the process of crushing that entire side
of the yard!!! I quote the man "Should've been here yesterday."  Arrgh!
talk about being too little to late, and I wasn't even looking for
anything in particular.  It's still a bummer though.
	I used to sympathise with those of you into older cars, now I know
what you guys really are going through.
	Sorry to be so long winded.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 11:06:00 -0400
Subject: turn signal lever repl.

My turn signal/cruice/wiper lever has most of its lettering rubbed off like
most of the GM cars did from the 80's and early 90's did. I can get a
replacement lever and harness but I am puzzeled on how to fish the wiring down
the column. Has anyone ever done this? Whats the trick??
Walter?





FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955 (every day driver)
         65 El Camino (show car, cruiser)
         95 Plymouth Neon (wifes car)
         95 Dodge Ram 4x4 v-10 (company truck)....

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 12:19:09 -0400
Subject: New subscriber

My name is Paul Fikaris and I'm a new subscriber.

I recently purchased a 1969 Delta 88 convertible with 19,120 original
miles. It has a 455 2bbl. PS, PB, 3.23 rear. Gold (see below) with a gold
(314) vinyl interior and a gold top.

I have a few questions about the car, and I'd appreciate all the help I can
get.

How many '69 88s converts were made? (I misplaced my production numbers
book) 
How many with 455s?     Were 4bbl. 455s offered in a Delta ragger?

Some of the documentation for the car said the color of the car is Aztec
Gold (paint code 75) However, the trim tag says the paint dcode is 65
(Topaz) What (exactly) color was Topaz in 1969, I'm getting conflicting
info Was it blue? pink? or light brown?

Also, can anyone help me decipher the remainder of my trim tag?

  ST 69     35467LAN271337  BDY
TR 314                    65    P   PNT
  O1E

ST 69	1969
3	Oldsmobile
54	Delta 88
67	conv
LAN	Lansing, MI
271337	I assume this is production sequence and should match the sequence
of my VIN?
TR 314	gold vinyl interior
65	Topaz paint
P	??
O1E	??

Thanks
Paul Fikaris
Cleveland, OH
'69 88 conv 455
fikaris@en.com

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 12:23:52 -0400
Subject: Re: SodaBlasting 

>>Does anyone have experience with using sodium bicarbonate as a blast medium?
>>Can it be run through an unmodified sandblasting unit?
>>
>>Ray
>>
>Can be done, is supposed to be one of the least abrasive mediums too.
>
>The Wiz
>

It is also supposed to temporarily (sp?) inhibit rust in the exposed metal
and dissolve in water. It sounds too good to be true. I can't wait to give
it a try. Does anyone have advice about shopping for a blast unit?

Thanks,
Ray
34476x

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 11:36:12 -0400
Subject: Re: wheels for Calais

>Well, you may want to try the 5 points off a C*price Impala SS.
>Those would look real sharp with the Olds Rocket (the REAL one) in
>the center (and would probably fit your existing bolt pattern)....
These are the five on five bolt pattern if I remember right.  ROH makes
these wheels and the ones for the Impala SS are special as the normal bolt
pattern is something like 5 on 4 and 3/4 or something.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 12:43:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 2 ? and a part 

The bronze engine paint from Brothers Auto is correct. 800-442-7278.  

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 12:49:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Rear Code 

In a message dated 3/23/97 2:55:07 AM, you wrote:

<<Does anybody know what the new rebuild kits from Supercars Unlimited for
O-type axles costs?>>

I dont know what supercars kit sells for but my Brothers Auto catalog list a
reduild kit with "a complete set of new clutches, a 300 pond spring, a jar of
the special GM posi additive, and a posi-traction identification tag." sells
for $85.00  Sorry no duct tape...Hope this helps.

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 12:46:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.73 speedo gearpl.

Like the other Frank said the Hurst/Olds from 86-87 had the 3.73/2004R combo
as well as the Monte Carlo SS from 85-88. This would be a lot easier to find
as about 120k SS's were made in those years with that combo.







FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955 (every day driver)
         65 El Camino (show car, cruiser)
         95 Plymouth Neon (wifes car)
         95 Dodge Ram 4x4 v-10 (company truck)....

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 13:08:44 -0400
Subject: paint clear coat problems - 86 "98" -Reply

>>> Jeff & Patti Kobinsky <jkpkobin@discover-net.net> 03/23/97 05:01pm
>>>
>I have a 86 olds "98" (white) that has the clear coat finish coming off in
>sheets.
>It is in different areas, no rust or dings involved.

My friends mother's '86 B*ick suffered the same fate.  You know what she
did?  She took it back to the dealership.  They took off the remaining clear
coat and resprayed it for free, because it was a defective paint job.  I think
it had something to do with the silver colored base that was beneath it.  It
must be, because every silver colored B*ick of that year I've seen has a
peeling clearcoat.  But in my oppinion, I think it was just some lazy sucker
who didn't know how to prep and paint.  It might be worth your time to see
if you can convince the Olds dealership that you got a defective paint job ;)

>My question - How do I repair this finish? - Do I need to refinish the
>entire car?

I say yes.  If it's peeling in some places now, it will probably eventually peel
everywhere else.

>The original paint is still on my 65 - F85 and looks better than the 86.

That's because people took more pride in their work than they do now...
IMHO.

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 13:25:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint 

In a message dated 3/24/97 8:34:25 PM, you wrote:

<<What shade of orange paint should be used on the air cleaner in my 1968
442?
Where do I buy it?

Thanks,
Bob>>

Bob-I know it sound silly but take a look at Krylon Fo*d Engine "red"-I
believe it is the same color as your air cleaner. 

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 13:23:26 -0400
Subject: Re: paint clear coat problems - 86 "98" -Reply

Blaine Sanders 5483 wrote:

> >The original paint is still on my 65 - F85 and looks better than the 86.
> 
> That's because people took more pride in their work than they do now...
> IMHO.

Well it is more than just that.  Olds used to use lacquer on their
finishes.
They can't use it now due to environmental issues.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 13:39:34 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central! 

Will somone please tell me what IRC is?  Oldoldsguy

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 13:56:00 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

Oldoldsguy@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Will somone please tell me what IRC is?  Oldoldsguy

Internet Relay Chat, I think.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 14:08:02 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

Internet Relay Chat

- ----------
> From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
> Date: Tuesday, March 25, 1997 11:39 AM
> 
> Will somone please tell me what IRC is?  Oldoldsguy
> 

------------------------------

From: Karl Davlin <kdavlin@bigfoot.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 14:01:06 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

Oldoldsguy@aol.com wrote:

  Will somone please tell me what IRC is?  Oldoldsguy

 Internet Relay Chat

Chat line...

However, I don't know the name of the chat room.

        Karl

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 14:13:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 1979 455

Seen that done, no real problems.  My friend did that, and he moved the 
motor back a bit for the fan to fit.  Motor mounts were just welded in 
(Set motor in straight, tach mounts, remove motor, fry in mounts good).  
Tranny crossmember was 'jimmied up' a bit to fit, and we managed to find 
a driveshaft lying around that fit (sorry, no idea what car it from, but 
shortening's cheap).  Just my .02




EA~

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, Gerald Hughes wrote:

> Hey all! 
> 	Has anyone been a witness to a 455 being put into a 1979 G Body?  What
> are the complications and requirements?
> 
> 	I know it's been done in the 81's, but I think there are some minute
> differences that prevent me from using that year as a guideline.
> 
> 	Any info would be appreciated. 
> -- 
> 						Gerald Hughes
> 						
> 						79 Hurst/Olds
> 						79 Bradley GT
> 						84 Bronco XLT
> 

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 14:15:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder

- ----------
> From: Frank Boerger <FBoerger@CompuServe.COM>
> To: Oldsmobile usenet <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Good Welder
> Date: Monday, March 24, 1997 11:25 PM
> 
> Sorry if this doesn't come through, but I'm on the road in Chicago, and
> it's late.
> 
> I bought a Lincoln Weld pak 100 Mig convertible wire feed welder at Home
> Depot for $ 299.  I use solid core wire (.035"), so I don't have to use
> gas.  I have had very good luck with it so far, put in floor pans,
patched
> a wheel house, patched my rusty dash/cowl, built a welder stand, and
> attached a junk yard patch panel on both quarters.  Runs on 110 v, and
has
> been borrowed by all my car guy friends.  They all agree that you can
learn
> to use it with the help of the enclosed video in an evening.  I heartily
> recommend one.
> 
> Frank Boerger//Tallahassee, FL
I bet Frank would agree that after you have had a MIG for a while you
wonder how you ever got along without one. I use gas with mine but I lots
of folks seem to like the flux core wire. Get one that will use either so
you can decide for yourself or switch back and forth.
   Walter 

------------------------------

From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 14:33:20 -0400
Subject: Welder suggestion

> From: joshstrub@csgnyc1.attmail.com (joshstrub)
> Date: Mon, 24 Mar 1997 14:52:58 -0400
> Subject: Good Welder
> 
> I know nothing about welding.  If I wanted to get a good welder to do a 
> variety of welding jobs and handle most of what I'm going to need to do
with a
> restoration and modification what is a good brand and specks.  I would
like to
> avoid having the power company come to my house and run a 220 line in if
at 
> all possible.  
> 
> Thaks for the help.
> 
> Josh

Josh,
  I have used a few different welders and the one I prefer most was a
Lincoln MIG.  It was a 220 model and had 5 different heat settings.  The
settings I used most often were #2 & 3.  The welder ran a great continuous
smooth bead without creating lots of slag.  I also had no troubles with
wire feed speed problems (Toof fast / too slow).  I can't say enough about
Lincoln!  I have also tried two different Snap-On MIG welders.  I could
never get a good heat setting, and always had problems with the wire feed. 
The handle would also arc if touched to the metal I was welding ~without~
pressing the button for the wire feed to begin.  They both seemd rather
cheaply built, and I was not at all impressed with either welder at all!
  My $$ would be on the Lincoln.  

P.S.  I don't know if I would call the power company to take care of your
220V line.  Call a local contractor, I'm sure it would be much cheaper. 
All S/he has to do is drop a line from your current fusebox to a
receptacle.  Keep in mind your local building codes.  Usually electrical
(Now, any I'm sure) requires the building department to inspect after the
work has been done.


Steve Reed
Austin, TX
1970 4-4-2 Ragtop

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 06:50:13 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central! 

     Yes, Internet Relay Chat.  Basically, IRC is a way for lots of people 
     to type at each other in real-time, one line (or paragraph if you 
     wish) at a time.  To use IRC you need some IRC software.  There have 
     been posts recently here recommending software and where to download 
     it from.  Once you have the software running, you connect to one of 
     the servers that carries the "channel", basically the conversation, 
     that you want to be involved in.  In this case, you can go to 
     irc.dal.net.  Once there you join the #Oldsmobile channel and you 
     should at that point see names of everyone else there, and be able to 
     start typing.
     
     The #Oldsmobile channel should be there all the time, so you can go 
     there right now to see if your IRC software is working correctly.  
     It'll just be awfully dull since you'll be the only one there, with 
     nobody to type at.
     
     Unfortunately, this week is really busy for me.  Probably won't be 
     able to make it.  Fighting the %&(# *@!$ body shop about my '84 H/O 
     still.  The idiots somehow managed to break my hood ornament (which by 
     the grace of god was somehow spared damage in the wreck), heaven knows 
     if I'll be able to find another H/O ornament. . .
     
     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
Date:    3/25/97 10:19 AM


Oldoldsguy@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Will somone please tell me what IRC is?  Oldoldsguy
     
Internet Relay Chat, I think.
     
Chris Sparks
68 442
     

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:08:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997 Oldoldsguy@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/24/97 8:34:25 PM, you wrote:
> 
> <<What shade of orange paint should be used on the air cleaner in my 1968
> 442?
> Where do I buy it?
> 
> Bob-I know it sound silly but take a look at Krylon Fo*d Engine "red"-I
> believe it is the same color as your air cleaner. 

One other suggestion: last year when I did mine I took the air cleaner 
into the parts store to match it up with the hundreds of cans of 
color-match spray they have. Turns out the closest match was a VW shade 
called "Mars Red" that was used in '85 or '86... it was identical to the 
Olds color. 


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:14:28 -0400
Subject: Re: New Member

On Mon, 24 Mar 1997, John Oder wrote:
> Just a short note to introduce my self, my name is John Oder and I just
> picked up a 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX with the W-32 455 Automatic with
> A/C.  

Why don't I ever come across these sorts of cars? <sigh>. Welcome, John...

> ralley pack dash, one thing I need to know is where to send the
> Tic-Tock-Tach in to have it rebuilt? 

I used APT Speedometer Service in Minneapolis a few years ago. Seemed 
pretty good. They advertise in Hemmings.

  The bodys in pretty good shape
> for a 27 year old car, only serious rust is under the rear wheel lip
> moldings and a little showing behind the front wheel.  I am sure as I
> progress with this I will have plenty of questions.  

I think we should convince you to sell it to me for a pittance... ;-) I 
would love to have one of those someday. Good luck.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:38:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

Hi all,

Just a general question.  Do tachometers exist that would fit inside
my dash (68 442) that is NOT the infamous tic-toc-tach?  Since
tic-toc-tachs are hard to come by and thereby expensive, I would like
to have the convenience of a tach without the expense of the t-t-t.

Any insight?

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:39:56 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Good Welder 

About the 220, I was very pleased to find the 220 circuits in my house are 
single phase, just what my Craftsman 6hp compressor needs. Thats the dryer, A/C 
and two stove outlets.

I've been told 3 phase 220 is for really heavy duty industrial type equipment. 
Anyone know of 2 phase or 3 phase equipment we might encounter in the car hobby?

I plan to either double tap the basement stove's breaker (not the best way) or 
add an additional 220 breaker. I understand double taps are not the best from a 
inspector's or code point of view, and besides, you could overload the circuit. 
Since the basement stove isn't used, controlling it's use is be pretty easy.
The Welding HP book I have suggests making a conversion plug for the 220 stove, 
A/C outlet, AS LONG AS IT DOES NOT EXCEED THE ALLOWED LENGTH. The welder, etc 
should have this chart in it's manual.

Just bought the Lincoln Weld Pak 100 also. For those in the Midwest, Farm & 
Fleet had them on sale a couple of weeks ago for $299. The MIG conversion kit 
for the 100 costs about $100-$110 more (check Sears also). Their 220v Weld Pak 
155 costs around $550, but it's capable of longer continuous duty, like 33% 
versus 25%, I think.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

First, your central air condition is also 220, [small snip]

You need to match your breaker to the requirements of the welder.

I split the wiring for the dryer, and had two range plug sockets at that
point, and kept the welder on the factory pigtail.   I just did not allow
the A/C or the dryer to be used at the same time.

The Wiz
- ------------
I bought a Lincoln Weld pak 100 Mig convertible wire feed welder at Home
Depot for $ 299.  I use solid core wire (.035"), so I don't have to use
gas.  I have had very good luck with it so far, put in floor pans, patched
a wheel house, patched my rusty dash/cowl, built a welder stand, and
attached a junk yard patch panel on both quarters.  Runs on 110 v, and has
been borrowed by all my car guy friends.  They all agree that you can learn
to use it with the help of the enclosed video in an evening.  I heartily
recommend one.

Frank Boerger//Tallahassee, FL

------------------------------

From: bryceman@442.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:50:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder 

>I don't kjnow about you guys but up here in canada we have nice MIGs that
>come in 110volt and they weld anything up to 1/4". I'm a welder and a body

I had read some really good debates on small to mid-size MIG welders of
different brands on UseNet in the past. I think the newsgroup was
rec.crafts.metalworking   give them a try.

           Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '72 Cutlass Convertible
            Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 15:44:56 -0400
Subject: Re: New subscriber 

Welcome Paul!

Sounds like a nice car. I especially like the gold color. You have to get 
some pictures to Bryceman. BUT DON'T send them to this list though! Their 
size is too large for distribution throught the list.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

My name is Paul Fikaris and I'm a new subscriber.

I recently purchased a 1969 Delta 88 convertible with 19,120 original
miles. It has a 455 2bbl. PS, PB, 3.23 rear. Gold (see below) with a gold
(314) vinyl interior and a gold top.

Thanks
Paul Fikaris
Cleveland, OH
'69 88 conv 455
fikaris@en.com

------------------------------

From: "JOHN L. BERENYI" <berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 16:07:07 -0400
Subject: For Sale 1967 Cutlass (DETAILS) Pt. II

History of car:

Engine rebuilt about 25K ago.  Heads have hardened seats.  Bored over
.040 has 
new original 4-v cam shaft installed even though its running with a 2GC
carb.  I 
have the 4-v carb though.  Came from the factory with a 2 barrel.  Other
new items
are carb, dist, power steering pump, alternator, manual dual master
cylinder, front
drums, brakes, universals, rear bearings and seals, water pump, fuel
pump, and coil.
Transmission is a 2 speed Jetaway and rebuilt last year.

Originally champagne gold with cameo ivory option interior.  Bench seat
option with 
automatic on the column.  Interior redone and rug replaced. Headliner
original and 
gorgeous.  Dash is gold and so is steering column and rug.  New rubber
around 
windows.  The car was a two tone paint option ...champagne gold with
white roof but 
now its all white ( 2nd paint job).  Dash is almost mint.

All chrome on car in good condition and no rust.  Minor body rust in
typical places
like lower rear quarter and lower front fender.  Paint in good shape.

Has air conditioning option but compressor, bracket, and condenser
missing. POA 
valve is intact.  Trunk pan and floor boards solid.  Rear window
resealed and not
leaking.  Rear end ratio is 2:73 non posi. Original AM radio not
working.

Comes with original window sticker, receipts since 1967, manual and
Protecto-Plate!

I'm even throwing in the non vintage SSII wheels with trim rings and
center caps.

I think thats everything...let me know what you think. $1995 OBO.
Located Dallas, TX.


John (972)727-4414 home  (214)956-6020 work

berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 16:32:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

Robert J. Lavey wrote:

> Hi Gang,
> 
> What shade of orange paint should be used on the air cleaner in my
> 1968 442? 

*****

Robert,

The air cleaner assembly on my 1968 442 was black.  Therefore, I'd 
say that it should be a really dark shade of orange to be anywhere 
near correct.  ;-)

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 16:41:14 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal lever repl. (long)

> My turn signal/cruice/wiper lever has most of its lettering rubbed off like
> most of the GM cars did from the 80's and early 90's did. I can get a
> replacement lever and harness but I am puzzeled on how to fish the wiring down
> the column. Has anyone ever done this? Whats the trick??
> Walter?

	Funny you should ask about this...I just went through this
nightmare this last weekend.  :)  The turn signal lever in my daily driver
(a GM product that begins with a C) was suffering from the same thing with
the letters, and was also falling apart, so I decided to replace it with
the lever out of that '82 Buick I was fixing up (stress the *was*...I
finally got that engine back together only to find out the block is
cracked...but thats another story).  Anyway, the hardest part of
removing/replacing that lever is probibly just getting the damn thing out
of the column.  Feeding the wires was actually pretty easy.  The procedure
goes about like this: (you may already know all this, but just in case...)

	1. remove the steering wheel--
Obviously, you'll need some sort of puller for this, but it's pretty
stright forward.  The only problem I had was the fact that the bolts that
came with my puller were too short, and I had to buy longer ones.  

	2. Remove the lockplate and cover--
This can be kind of tricky.  There should be a plastic cover over the
lockplate directly under the wheel.  Just use a couple screwdrivers to pry
it off.  With that off, you need to use a lockplate compressor to get the
lockplate low enough to fish out the snap-ring retainer.  The snap ring is
almost always frustrating, since snap-ring plyers are too big to fit, and
you end up using a couple screwdrivers and a lot of patience to get it
off.  With the lock-plate out of the way you should be able to see the
trun signal switch, the lever,etc.  

	3. Disconnect the wires under the dash--
You'll have to remove some sort of pannel under the dash to get access to
them, but there will be two wide plugs under there--one for the turn
signal switch itself, and one for the lever you're replacing.  Unplug them
both, unless the turn signal switch wires have enough slack to allow you
to pull the switch out of the column fairly far (you'll understand why in
a minute.)  At this point, you can either pull the wires for the lever out
of the plug, or just cut them, to be spliced with the new levers wires
later.

	4. Unscrew the steering column collar with the ignition lock--
There should be three torx screws holding the thing in, plus one phillips
screw that holds the ignition lock in.  This is where you need to pull the
turnsignal switch out as far as possible to get to this stuff.  If you got
*really* ambitious, you could write down the order of the switch wires
and disconnect them too and just remove the whole thing.  With the torx
screws out, remove the philips screw and remove the lock cylinder.  That
little plastic thing with the two copper strips comming out of it is what
activates the "You dummmy--you left your keys in the lock" buzzer, and
that should come out now too. With all this stuff out, the collar should
come off the column.  Oh, and there is a little metal pice with a phillips
screw in it that joins the lever and the switch.  Remove that too.

	5.  Remove the turn signal lever--
This is where things get tough.  There is a pin that the lever pivots on
in there.  Use a nail or small punch to push it out the back of the
collar.  Just try and catch it and keep it off your carpet--it's probibly
pretty greasy.  The lever should now be kind of free, and the trick is to
try and get it to come out that little hole it sits in.  And it is a
trick.  I got mine out ok, but in frustration, I ended up snipping that
little pice of plastic out of the collar to get the new one in.
Installation is the reverse, and as far as feeding the wires down there,
just wrap the end of them in some tape and push them down the same hole
they came out of.  They should go in pretty easy.

	Anyway, I hope this is of some help.  All my book had to say about
it was "remove wheel.  Remove lockplate.  Remove turn-signal lever
retaining screw.  Remove lever."  This turned out to not only be
missleading, but almost completly wrong!!  If you have any other questions
about this let me know.  I can probibly help.
	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98  

------------------------------

From: Daniela Baker <danielabaker@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 16:34:27 -0400
Subject: Information wanted! 

Hi!
My name is David Biermann and I am subscribed to "Journey with Olds". I want
information about an 1964 Dynamic 88 Convertible related to tune up specs
and information for odering new brake drums . Any information would be
helpful. You can contact me at (847)-546-6913 or at my email adress
alienone@ix.netcom.com.
                Thank you very much!
                        

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 16:47:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

Thomas Stoner wrote:

> The air cleaner assembly on my 1968 442 was black.  Therefore, I'd
> say that it should be a really dark shade of orange to be anywhere
> near correct.  ;-)

Funny.  My air cleaner assembly is a dark fire engine red.  Hmmmmm.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 17:03:45 -0400
Subject: wanted 1984 chassis manual

Hello fellow oldsnut's,

I'm looking to purchase a 1984 Oldsmobile chassis manual.  If you have one
that you would be willing to sell, write me with a price. I'm not
particularly concerned with condition as long as all of the pages and all
of the text is there.  Any help with finding one of these will be 
appreciated.

Thanks, 
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.       

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 17:22:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question 

In a message dated 97-03-25 15:46:16 EST, you write:

<< Hi all,
 
 Just a general question.  Do tachometers exist that would fit inside
 my dash (68 442) that is NOT the infamous tic-toc-tach?  Since
 tic-toc-tachs are hard to come by and thereby expensive, I would like
 to have the convenience of a tach without the expense of the t-t-t.
 
 Any insight?
 
 Chris Sparks
 68 442 >>
Yes the Sun tach II's and Autogage 2 1/4 tachs will fit.  The Sun can be
picked up at Murrys or K marts and the Autogage from a hi-performance store.
 Most cutlass owners in this area usually put their tach there. I opted to
put my on my steering column using a 3 inch hose clamp.  If interested in pic
of the column mount email me and i will send a pic of it.

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 17:15:10 -0400
Subject: Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I 

In a message dated 97-03-25 08:44:04 EST, you write:

<< Has anyone seen the March 6th issue of Machine Design?  
 
 According to the article, Shelby American (i.e., Carroll Shelby) and Olds
have teamed up to 
 produce a new roadster, the Shelby Series 1.  It's powered by a modified
Aurora engine and 
 is rear wheel drive.  The article says the car should do 0-60 in under 5 sec
and have a top 
 speed of 170.  The cars will be sold in the US by a select group of Olds
dealers with 
 production set at less than 500.  From the picture, it looks like a pretty
cool car (a cross 
 between a Ferrari and that new BMW roadster).  Is it an Olds, or a Shelby,
or both?
 
 Anybody have any more info (like how many $$)? >>

I have seen the car in person.  It was at the Detroit International Auto Show
in January.  The car is silver and blue and powered by an Aurora v-8.  Its a
Shelby Olds to best describe the car.  I am going to have the picture scanned
and I will send it to whomever wants the pic.

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 17:45:52 -0400
Subject: Race Car Model Kit For Sale (3/25)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to 
sell:

1987 Oldsmobile Delta 88 NASCAR Winston Cup race car plastic model 
kit.  1/24 scale, Monogram #2779 - Wynn's / K-Mart Oldsmobile.  
Factory sealed box.  $25.00, including shipping to any address in the 
United States.  (3/25/97)

Please notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to 
purchase this item or if you would like additional information about 
it.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 18:10:29 -0400
Subject: Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:

> Shelby Olds to best describe the car.  I am going to have the 
> picture scanned and I will send it to whomever wants the pic.

Oooh! Oooh! Me! Me!

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 19:15:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

At 00:53 3/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Supercars Unlimited paint seemed to be right on for me!
>
>On Mon, 24 Mar 1997, Robert J. Lavey wrote:
>
>> Hi Gang,
>> 
>> What shade of orange paint should be used on the air cleaner in my 1968 442?
>> Where do I buy it?
>> 


   Is this the same color for the '69 4-4-2 air cleaner?

Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 19:24:24 -0400
Subject: Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I

At 17:15 3/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-03-25 08:44:04 EST, you write:
>
><< Has anyone seen the March 6th issue of Machine Design?  
> 
> According to the article, Shelby American (i.e., Carroll Shelby) and Olds
>have teamed up to 
> produce a new roadster, the Shelby Series 1.  It's powered by a modified
>Aurora engine and 
> is rear wheel drive.  The article says the car should do 0-60 in under 5 sec
>and have a top 
> speed of 170.  The cars will be sold in the US by a select group of Olds
>dealers with 
> production set at less than 500.  From the picture, it looks like a pretty
>cool car (a cross 
> between a Ferrari and that new BMW roadster).  Is it an Olds, or a Shelby,
>or both?
> 
> Anybody have any more info (like how many $$)? >>
>
>I have seen the car in person.  It was at the Detroit International Auto Show
>in January.  The car is silver and blue and powered by an Aurora v-8.  Its a
>Shelby Olds to best describe the car.  I am going to have the picture scanned
>and I will send it to whomever wants the pic.
>
>
  I'd love to see that.  Please send if you would to:   gpc442@buffnet.net

Thanks
Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 19:33:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

Thomas Stoner wrote:
> 
> Robert J. Lavey wrote:
> 
> > Hi Gang,
> >
> > What shade of orange paint should be used on the air cleaner in my
> > 1968 442?
> 
> *****
> 
> Robert,
> 
> The air cleaner assembly on my 1968 442 was black.  Therefore, I'd
> say that it should be a really dark shade of orange to be anywhere
> near correct.  ;-)

Well, I'm no expert on '68s, but here's what I have on the subject.
The '68 air cleaner was red (most of the '69 air cleaners were red, but
some were black) amd was a single snorkel design.  I believe (and ~know~
I'll be corrected if I'm wrong) that the turnpike cruiser option had a
black air cleaner.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 20:05:44 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central! 

At 01:39 PM 3/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Will somone please tell me what IRC is?  Oldoldsguy
>
>
International Reply Coupon, they cost about $1. and you get them from your
Post Office.

Anon. I

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 20:08:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Welder 

>I bet Frank would agree that after you have had a MIG for a while you
>wonder how you ever got along without one. I use gas with mine but I lots
>of folks seem to like the flux core wire. Get one that will use either so
>you can decide for yourself or switch back and forth.
>   Walter 
>

This is just one of those dumb questions, has anyone ever used cored wire,
and shielding gas; at the same time!

If so, what did it do for the weld?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 20:32:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Good Welder 

At 03:39 PM 3/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>About the 220, I was very pleased to find the 220 circuits in my house are 
>single phase, just what my Craftsman 6hp compressor needs. Thats the dryer,
A/C 
>and two stove outlets.

The power that goes into 98% of all the homes in America, is 220VAC single
phase.  You have two 110VAC branches, but it is all single phase.

>
>I've been told 3 phase 220 is for really heavy duty industrial type equipment. 
>Anyone know of 2 phase or 3 phase equipment we might encounter in the car
hobby?

Three phase is a different cat altogether.  The 220VAC has two hot wires and
a ground, three phase has three hot wires and a ground, and indeed is
usually used industrially.  

>I plan to either double tap the basement stove's breaker (not the best way) or 
>add an additional 220 breaker. I understand double taps are not the best
from a 
>inspector's or code point of view, and besides, you could overload the
circuit. 
>Since the basement stove isn't used, controlling it's use is be pretty easy.
>The Welding HP book I have suggests making a conversion plug for the 220
stove, 
>A/C outlet, AS LONG AS IT DOES NOT EXCEED THE ALLOWED LENGTH. The welder, etc 
>should have this chart in it's manual.

The easiest thing to do is add another double, or a pair of single breakers,
and run another line to the vicinity of where the welder will be used.  I
like to use wire at least one size heavier than code requires too.  I use
range plugs, but there are several 220V socket/plug sets that should be
satisfactory.

>
>Just bought the Lincoln Weld Pak 100 also. For those in the Midwest, Farm & 
>Fleet had them on sale a couple of weeks ago for $299. The MIG conversion kit 
>for the 100 costs about $100-$110 more (check Sears also). Their 220v Weld Pak 
>155 costs around $550, but it's capable of longer continuous duty, like 33% 
>versus 25%, I think.

Around here Lincoln and Miller seem to have the best reputations for this
sort of equipment.  The best MIGs have a rheostat type wire feed adjustment,
and power adjustment, making both infinitely adjustable; not just coarse clicks.

>David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

The Wiz

P.S. All the above was subjected to many snips!

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 20:37:55 -0400
Subject: rear window

Has anyone done any rust repair work around the rear window?  My '67 442
has bad damage around the mounting surface for the glass, and I'm looking
for any tips from someone who has experience with this.

Thanks,

Paul Rousseau

------------------------------

From: "mcfrlan@bconnex.net" <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:14:55 -0400
Subject: hood moulding needed

Everett,
	Thanks for checking your wharehouse for me. I already have a hood
moulding in about as good as shape as you descibed yours to be, so sorry
but I think I'm gonna have to pass on the moulding you have, thanks
anyways!


Cliff McFarlane  OCA # 022782
'62 Starfire Conv.
'63 Starfire Coupe

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:13:10 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal lever repl. 

In a message dated 97-03-25 11:36:16 EST, you write:

> I am puzzeled on how to fish the wiring down
>  the column. Has anyone ever done this? Whats the trick??

I had to do that when I installed the cruise on my '72.  I think I used a
straightened coat hanger.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:15:06 -0400
Subject: Re: New subscriber 

In a message dated 97-03-25 12:20:31 EST, you write:

> How many '69 88s converts were made? 

5,294 don't know how many with 455s.

Option L31 was the 365hp 455 4bbl @ $110.59.

a rarer option was the L32 390hp with dual exhaust @ $141.13.
 
>  Some of the documentation for the car said the color of the car is Aztec
>  Gold (paint code 75) However, the trim tag says the paint dcode is 65
>  (Topaz) What (exactly) color was Topaz in 1969, I'm getting conflicting
>  info Was it blue? pink? or light brown?

What documentation do you have that shows code 75?  I think in this case you
would have to go with the trim tag.  I always think of blue when I hear
topaz, but Oldsmobile's topaz is definately not blue.  Aztec Gold and Topaz
are very similar in color, with the Aztec Gold being a little darker.
  
>  271337	I assume this is production sequence and should match the sequence
>  of my VIN?

This is the sequence number for the body only and will not match the VIN.

>  P	??

I hate '69s.  None of the codes on the trim tags match the showroom books.
 The P on your tag is the color for the convertible top.  I have codes:
1-white, 2-black, 3-blue, 6-gold.  The only P code I have for '69 is for
paint - Platinum.  I'm going to assume that for whatever reason P means it
had a gold top.  Or, maybe it's a B and the bottom isn't showing clearly.  If
that were the case then I would say it had a black top.  But the code for
black stripes is A not B so that wouldn't hold out either.  White, Black or
Gold convertible tops were available in '69 with either Aztec Gold or Topaz.

>  O1E	??

Build date - 5th week (E) or January (01)
  
Paul

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:25:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

I would like
>to have the convenience of a tach without the expense of the t-t-t.
> 
>

I put a Sun Super Tach into both my '69 and '71 Cutlass. I just had the
dummy plate where the clock or tach would have gone. I simply removed
the back dummy plate (just 3 or 4 screws if I remember), cut out the
blank plate so that the tach would go in from the front, and screwed the
plate right back on. It holds the tach in place perfectly. A dummy plate
should be easy to find if you don't have one. 
				David Nye
				'71 Cutlass Supreme Rag-Top

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:34:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Trofeo Auto Lock Problem

Albert,

Check your connections on the shift lever switch.

Jeff.
	'91 Quad 442 W-41
	'70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:32:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

Chris,

I took an old clock face, painted over the numbers, stuck on new numbers
and installed an aftermarket tach in the clock housing.  I was even able
to use the matching original clock big hand for my rpm indicator.

The only potential problem is calibrating the new numbers and making
sure the tach reads correctly.

It worked great for my '70 though.

Jeff.
	'91 Quad 442 w-41
	'70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:53:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner paint

> >> What shade of orange paint should be used on the air cleaner in my 1968 442?
> >> Where do I buy it?
> >>
> 
>    Is this the same color for the '69 4-4-2 air cleaner?

Yes.  The same

> I believe (and ~know~
> I'll be corrected if I'm wrong) that the turnpike cruiser option had a
> black air cleaner.

Yes.

I also used the Brothers Air Cleaner paint and it looks very good.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Jeff Ferraro <jtf4227@unix.tamu.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 21:50:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.73 speedometer gear

The 85-87 442s ran this combo - 3.73s/200-4R , also the 83-4 HOs I think

JEFF FERRARO
86 442

> From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Mar 1997 14:48:46 -0400
> Subject: 3.73 speedometer gear
> 
> Help,
>      Does anyone know where I can find a speedometer gear that works in a
> TH200-4R transmission in conjunction with a 3.73 rear end gear set?
>      I have and appointment to change the rear a week from today and if I
> can't find out that the right speedometer gear is available then I will
> have to return it for a 3.42. There is a Buick Grand National listing for
> that gear set.
>       Please, if anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate. I don't
> have to be in possession of the speedometer gear immediately but must know
> of its existence before the 3.73 gear set is installed.
>       Thank you for taking the time to read this and any help you may provide.
> John
> +================================+
> | John and Elizabeth Gene        |
> | mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
> | http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
> +================================+

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:08:14 -0400
Subject: 70 SX for sale 

Lead for 70 SX  for sale
  Car is located in Warwick R.I.

  Silver w/black vinyl top, 455 4 bbl air power discs power trunk
buckets/console,tilt
THM400, 12 bolt posi, only 65,000 miles.
 Guy who owns it works in body shop, completely redid car including engine
except now the engine has blowby, he's asking $4500.00

call Neil 1-401-732-1892

or e-mail me privately for more info

Everett Horton  ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 16:12:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 1954 Oldsmobile

Merlina Tate wrote:
> 
> 
> We have a 4-door, 88.  Would like to restore it to a two-tone paint job,
> using blue and white.
> 
> Jim Tate

Jim,

I suppose that you know that the factory only did 2-tones by way of
painting the roof one color & the main body another for 88's.  The
famous body one color & the roof, trunk, & rear quarters was reserved
for the 98's in 1954.  Many dealers did the 98 style for 88's though.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:20:26 -0400
Subject: IRC 

I like the idea of at least tring the olds chat to see if I like it.

I don't know where you irc guys are, (state) or how familliar with irc the
group is.

When you look up "DALnet" there are multiple servers all over the United
States and Canada, and the person wishing to log in needs to know the server
address to join.

By the time I was able to log on to my isp and check two different DALnet
servers without finding the olds channel.

IF you guys want some participation, or at least someone to try it you need
to provide more information on what Dalnet server you are on.

I have used irc and do enjoy it if a "normal" channel can be found.

I'm in Wisconsin and would like to find out about others heading for Lansing
like I am for the 100th.

Please post the info before Wed night or quit wondering why nobody shows up...

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:24:18 -0400
Subject: Re: New Member

Welcome, John!

         Jim Townsend

         '90 Calais W-40

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:26:14 -0400
Subject: Loose tilt steering wheel 

My tilt steering wheel column is very loose. In a locked position it can be
moved side to side, up and down, sort of wobbly. IS there an internal joint
that has to be replaced or tightened? I referenced the 77 Olds Service
manual but can't find any specific help.
 

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:23:45 -0400
Subject: Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I 

At 06:24 PM 3/25/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> According to the article, Shelby American (i.e., Carroll Shelby) and Olds
[snip]
>>I have seen the car in person.  It was at the Detroit International Auto Show
[snip]
>  I'd love to see that.  Please send if you would to:   gpc442@buffnet.net

No need; there are pictures of this car up on the Olds page, under
"Multimedia" I believe (nice job, Bryce!)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:23:41 -0400
Subject: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder] 

At 01:15 PM 3/25/97 -0500, Frank Boerger wrote:

>> I bought a Lincoln Weld pak 100 Mig convertible wire feed welder at Home
>> Depot for $ 299.  I use solid core wire (.035"), so I don't have to use

I've just moved up to my first 220v purchase, also from Home Depot, for
automotive use, and I thought I'd share the details on this deal, if anyone
else is looking to buy or upgrade their air compressor.

Home Depot carries a 6 hp/26 gal. 220v Campbell-Hausfeld compressor, cast
iron pump, normally for $369. Well, they're on clearance now, so you can now
pick up one of these units for $299. this is nice for me, since I was
planning on getting one anyway, but couldn't afford it before.

Anyway, I'm waiting for my electrician to come by and install the 220v line
for it, so I haven't gotten to use it yet, but it's got a massive electric
motor, separate cast-iron pump (not an integral one-piece pump/motor unit
like the Craftsman one I was looking at), and a huge cage surrounding the
drive belt. I'm looking forward to some head porting and sand-blasting, as
soon as I get that line installed in my basement (now my family is *never*
going to see me upstairs!).

Oh, speaking of which, I don't have any room to install this in my garage
(no room in the ceiling or rafters, either). I was planning on building an
attached shed for the compressor on the back of the garage, and was
wondering on ventilation/insulation schemes that would reduce the noise of
this thing.

One other option that I'd like you opinion on is plumbing a hard air-line
between my garage and the basement. I'm going to be digging a trench for
some lines to be run out to the garage (220v for a future MIG), and I was
considering laying some iron pipe down as well, and putting some air
fittings on the end so i can run the compressor in my basement, but use it
in the garage, or vice-versa, for when I want to do some porting in my
basement. Has anyone done this before? Any advice on line size? Any
warnings? I want to port the E-heads I have for my SX (required Olds
content) by this summer.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:23:47 -0400
Subject: Re: New subscriber 

At 11:19 AM 3/25/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I recently purchased a 1969 Delta 88 convertible with 19,120 original
[snip]
>Also, can anyone help me decipher the remainder of my trim tag?
>
>  ST 69     35467LAN271337  BDY
>TR 314                    65    P   PNT
>  O1E
>
>ST 69	1969
>3	Oldsmobile
>54	Delta 88
>67	conv
>LAN	Lansing, MI
>271337	I assume this is production sequence and should match the sequence
>of my VIN?

Not necessarily; it is the *body* sequence number, which was produced
separate from the rest of the car and brought together with the chassis at a
later time.

>TR 314	gold vinyl interior
>65	Topaz paint
>P	??

Though the vinyl top codes are *supposed* to be numbers, apparently the
'69's also used letters (mine does). P would most likely be "Parchment", a
shade of white.

>O1E	??

That is the build date of the body (again, not of the whole car); someone
else will have to tell you what "01E" means, however (I believe "E" is May,
but I'm not sure if the numbers are simply the date in May, or one is the
week and the other is the day of the week).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:38:01 -0400
Subject: Re: New Olds / Shelby Series I

AutoWeek recently did a feature on the new Shelby.  I'm not at home right
now or I'd go get the article, but I do remember that the car is designed
and built by Shelby, with an Olds Aurora engine built to put out around
350-375 hp...I think that's what the number was.  And I think it was
priced  somewhere in the neighborhood of the Viper; around 70k-80k.
Again, I don't remember the info very well. 

If someone doesn't say anything more on it, I'll dig up that issue and put
the correct info on the list.

Have a great day!

        Jim Townsend 

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:47:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer question

Chris,

You might try the Summit parts catalogue.  They have all sorts of stuff
like tachs, other gagues, etc.  If you don't see it in there, call them.
They might have it anyway.

If you need their number, I (or someone else, I'm sure) can get it for
you. 

       Jim Townsend

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> Just a general question.  Do tachometers exist that would fit inside
> my dash (68 442) that is NOT the infamous tic-toc-tach?  Since
> tic-toc-tachs are hard to come by and thereby expensive, I would like
> to have the convenience of a tach without the expense of the t-t-t.
> 
> Any insight?
> 
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:52:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Deal [was Re: Good Welder] 

>To cut down on the noise from the compressor, extend the intake and exhuast
from the compressor with common pipe fittings  to the outside of home/garage
area and reinstall the filters outside in a protected area.

Check for local firm that makes specialty packing for cardboard.

We have local mfg that cuts foam for padded boxes and they can cut sheets
and give it a "egg crate" finish.

Build a cabinet and insulate with this foam exposed to compressor and you
will have nice quiet set-up.

Make sure you drain condensation from compressor tank on regular baisis.

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:55:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel

Aaron,

I had a similar problem with my '90 Calais.  The tilt steering wheel was
very loose at the base of the column.  It's no big deal if you get it
fixed soon (Don't want the wheel to come off when you're flyin' down the
highway!! Dooooooh!  :o  ).  I coulda fixed myself, I guess, but I had my
friend at the Jeep/Eagle dealership take off the wheel and tighten the
bolt that holds the wheel on.  It shouldn't be anything more than just
removing the steering wheel and tightening whatever bolts holds the column
on the dash.  However, taking the wheel off could be a little tricky; I
did try that much.

     Jim Townsend

On Tue, 25 Mar 1997, Aaron D Eoff wrote:

> My tilt steering wheel column is very loose. In a locked position it can be
> moved side to side, up and down, sort of wobbly. IS there an internal joint
> that has to be replaced or tightened? I referenced the 77 Olds Service
> manual but can't find any specific help.
>  
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 22:54:58 -0400
Subject: re:  air compressor deal 

I have looked at those Campbell Hausfield compressors, but folks tell me
that I want a dual stage compressor for bead blast cabinet, etc.  Any
suggestions?  Home Depot has a dual stage for around $700. 
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 23:01:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose tilt steering wheel 

At 09:26 PM 3/25/97 -0500, you wrote:
>My tilt steering wheel column is very loose. In a locked position it can be
>moved side to side, up and down, sort of wobbly. IS there an internal joint
>that has to be replaced or tightened? I referenced the 77 Olds Service
>manual but can't find any specific help.

There are four bolts on the tilt-wheel base that have loosened up. You have
to remove most of the steering column tilt mechanism to reach them, and you
need a special tool to pull the pins for the tilt pivot. I know, because my
Electra's column loosened up the same way (major pain to drive that way). I
just took it to the dealer, and let them use their special tools and *their*
patience to get in there and tighten the bolts. You can always swap in
another column, but there's no guarantee that it will be any tighter. I
believe it was about an hour and a half labor to do the job (but they had to
drill out a welded-in pivot pin, so it may be less for you).

Check with a dealer to at least get an estimate on this job. It's not fun on
your own (this from an ardent advocate of the "do it yourself" mentality).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #577
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