To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #543


oldsmobile-digest          Saturday, 1 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 543

RE: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
High RPM stress
Re: cam specs
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: High RPM stress
Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists?
1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics
350
RE: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Re: olds service manuals -Reply
Re[2]: 50's Oldsmobile lists?
BIRTH RECORDS!!!!
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: olds service manuals -Reply
Found: 1956 Olds 88
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: 350
M-21 Problems solved
Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88
RE: 350
For Sale: '77 Hurst/Olds
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Hurst in Hemmings
Orig GM-Delco Power Top Motors FS. (fwd)
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
1946-48 grille
still looking
Re: 350
Re: still looking
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: still looking
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome
Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome: Wiz
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics
Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics
Re: 1946-48 grille
1956 Olds
Re:  Internet Phone Directory
Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome
Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists?
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <FBoerger@compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 15:49:21 -0400
Subject: RE: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

>Jeeze Louise ---  No kidding, really??? --- The energy utilised by the
>turbo
>is waste heat from the engine and not taken from the crankshaft as the
>source
>of the energy used to drive the turbo.

Well, it IS a drag on efficiency, because it causes SOME backpressure to
the system....if you don't think so, just seize the bearings in one
sometime.  I'm just saying that it DOES cost hp to drive it...it just helps
the engine derive more hp than it costs.

I understand that a turbo is driven by the exhaust, and if it were not in
the line, the exhaust gases could flow out easier.

Jeeze back.

Frank Boerger//Turbine Engine Components TEXTRON//Thomasville, GA

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 16:03:09 -0400
Subject: High RPM stress

To get back to the original concern (bottem-end failure at higher rpm's),
one could use a crankshaft w/ the rod pins(is that what they're called?)
drilled through; ie- they're hollow.  This cuts down the
reciprocating weight and puts less stress on the main supports.  I've seen
these type advertised in the Summit catalogue for Chevy and Ford V-8's,
but they're pretty expensive.

      Jim Townsend

      '90 Calais

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 16:34:13 -0400
Subject: Re: cam specs

  It's seat to seat timing -- not .050" lift timing

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 16:37:46 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

  ok ok yer rrright ahm rrrong

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 16:40:28 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM stress

  Yes there are even taper wall wrist pins -- ive never seen one in person
but i think they are thicker in the middle and thinner toward the outside

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 17:58:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists?

>
>
>> > the 1950's list i think it is a good idea, but what are the "cut off
dates" >> >> I've seen a lot of interest here in a 50's list; I've also seen
a lot >> of interest in an early 60's list, which would be different.  I may
>> run a 50's list (ie. 1950..1959) >> >> I think that even more than the
year, a 50's car has a certain styling >> that makes it distinct.  The look
that, when people see you drive by, >> says "hey, that's a 57 ch*vy!" [d'oh!] >
>	For whatever it's worth, I would suggest that a the list be >extended to
1960, since the '59s and '60s were virtually identical under >the skin.  (and
I'm sure it's equally impossible to find parts for them) >It was 1961 that GM
had one of it's major overhauls. And >besides, the '60s have thoes cool
horozontal fins that look "oh so 50s" :) > 
>				Scott >			1960 Oldsmobile
Rocket 98 > >Likewise, I would suggest that it includes '49's, since the 49
and 50's are nearly identical and 49 was the introduction year of the "88".


>
>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: chray@Logical.Net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 18:17:29 -0400
Subject: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

HELP!!!!!!!

I am looking for the vacuum schematics for the windshield wiper washer fluid
system for my 1956 Oldsmobile.  Does anyone have a copy of this?  Does
anyone know where I can obtain a copy of this?  Is anyone familiar with this
system of hoses?  Please e-mail me at chray@logical.net with any information
at all.  Thank you...

Ray Rettig
1956 Rocket 88 4-door sedan.

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 18:10:04 -0400
Subject: 350

I need an educated guess from someone's valuable experience.  Take an
otherwise stock late 70's 350 and stuff a new cam in in with the following
specs: lift .448I .472E  duration 270I 280E.  What sort of machine would that
give, assuming the carb is tweaked to make it run.  Will it idle?  Power
guesses?  It sounds maybe a little radical to me.

Pat

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 19:33:46 -0400
Subject: RE: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

    I have a shop manual and parts books on the '56 Olds. I'll look at them
and see what they show. I'll be glad to copy you some pages.
     R.B. Short
     Oklahoma City
- ----------
From: 	chray@Logical.Net[SMTP:chray@Logical.Net]
Sent: 	Friday, February 28, 1997 4:17 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

HELP!!!!!!!

I am looking for the vacuum schematics for the windshield wiper washer fluid
system for my 1956 Oldsmobile.  Does anyone have a copy of this?  Does
anyone know where I can obtain a copy of this?  Is anyone familiar with this
system of hoses?  Please e-mail me at chray@logical.net with any information
at all.  Thank you...

Ray Rettig
1956 Rocket 88 4-door sedan.

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 19:20:54 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

>Axiom: It is quite likely that the wiring harness already has the primary
>wiring in place.

I don't believe so; see below. In any event, cannibalizing a donor car
with PW is just about mandatory, IMHO, given the amount of hardware you
will need to account for.

>1. You will need four sets of electric motors.  They may be adaptable to
>the original lift mechanisms, or they may not.

The motor assemblies I believe will bolt to the same regulators as
that of the manual crank handle. Pay attention to which holes in the
door are used for mounting the motor assembly when you pull them out
of the old car.

>2. You will need new upholstery panels without the hole for the handle.

Quite possibly, although certain cars such as the F-bodies simply used a
filler plate to cover the crank hole; others stick the PW switch in the
same hole used for the manual crank. The donor car you are picking apart
may answer this question for you.

>3. You will need the four switches.  The drivers door has one that works all
>the windows so it is special.  Also you will probably need pigtails to
>connect the motors, wiring harness and switches together.

Well, one important point about the driver's door switch is that all the
other window switches run through it; i.e. you have a lot of wiring in
there. The driver's door switch serves to interrupt the passenger door
switches, so that you don't have fireworks if the passenger presses Up
while the driver presses Down. So in addition to snagging the switches
from the donor car, you'll also want to retrieve the wiring from inside
the doors. Grab the little accordion-pleated rubber boots in the door
jambs as well, where the wiring passes through them in order to jump
the gap between pillar and door. Inspect the driver's door wiring very
closely; the constant flexing can break the wires inside the insulation
over time and knock out any or all window motors (e.g. if the right rear
window suddenly goes dead, the problem may actually be in the driver's
door wiring).

>5. You will need to determine the circuitry thru the fuze box.  There
>probably is a unused fuze position, or possibly (but probably only a rarely
>possiblity) it shares a fuze with some other accessories, and this will
>become part of the your fuze box search.

I think what you may find is a rather large plug with a pink wire of
10 or 12 gauge plugged into one of the accessory ports near the bottom
of the fusebox. This will lead to the PW wiring harness. Since you need
the wiring out of the doors anyway, starting at the door and tracing your
way up to the dashboard will show you what plugs in where.

>This is a start.  I'm sure you will there are some other aspects that I
>didn't think about this morning, it's still to early to think much.  And
>additional answers should be forthcoming.

Hear, hear. I think before tackling this it will be very useful to check
out a similar car with the PW option; there are lots of details to haggle
with and trace. It _is_ a bolt-in installation, when all is said and done,
but an awful lot of the required work is behind the scenes. Good luck.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 22:39:59 -0400
Subject: Re: olds service manuals -Reply

Clayton Pierce wrote:
>
> Sometimes you can just find somebody whose got a couple of them that will
> sell one.  I just bought a '68 Olds chassis manual for $20 from somebody
> who had an extra.  It is not a reprint.  Gosh, now all I need to do is buy
> a '68 442 or Toro to go along with it :-).
> Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> Clayton Pierce,
> zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
Hello there, Clayton!! Just the guy I've been looking for. Would you
like someone to take that '68 Service Manual off your hands? Hmmmm?? I
would make the BIG sacrifice and make room on my shelves for it if it
takes up to much space on yours. You're not using it anyway, so why not?
Please let me know if I can help you find a home for that old manual!;)

Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible
MailTo:bradbaker@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 19:53:03 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: 50's Oldsmobile lists?

     How about prefixing the subject line with the decade. (i.e. 50-Valve
     guide problem).  That way those of us who are interested in that
     decade can easily see which messages they're interested in without
     having scan each and every post.

     And as far as cutoff dates, I vote for 40's and 50's to be lumped
     together...

     Peter G. Teubel
     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '52 Plymouth
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's Car)


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists? Author:
idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight) at imail Date:    2/28/97 5:58 PM


>
>
>> > the 1950's list i think it is a good idea, but what are the "cut off
dates" >> >> I've seen a lot of interest here in a 50's list; I've also seen
a lot >> of interest in an early 60's list, which would be different.  I may
>> run a 50's list (ie. 1950..1959) >> >> I think that even more than the
year, a 50's car has a certain styling >> that makes it distinct.  The look
that, when people see you drive by, >> says "hey, that's a 57 ch*vy!" [d'oh!] 
> >
For whatever it's worth, I would suggest that a the list be >extended to
1960, since the '59s and '60s were virtually identical under >the skin.  (and
I'm sure it's equally impossible to find parts for them) >It was 1961 that GM
had one of it's major overhauls. And >besides, the '60s have thoes cool
horozontal fins that look "oh so 50s" :) > >
Scott >                       1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98 > >Likewise, I would
suggest that it includes '49's, since the 49 and 50's are nearly identical
and 49 was the introduction year of the "88".


>
>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho



------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 19:44:00 -0400
Subject: BIRTH RECORDS!!!!

      Date:  02/28/1997  03:44 pm  (Friday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  BIRTH RECORDS!!!!

JUST CURIOUS, I KNOW A LOT OF PEOPLE ON THIS
LIST HAVE THE "HISTORY" ON THEIR CAR, SOOOOOO,
IF IT'S POSSIBLE, COULD ANYONE HELP ME FIND OUT
AS MUCH AS I CAN ON MY WOMAN????  I GOT THE
VIN # AND THE INFO. FROM THERE, BUT BESIDES
THAT, WHAT ELSE CAN I FIND AND WHERE????
THANKS!!!!

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 19:47:16 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

At 01:06 PM 2/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Jeeze Louise ---  No kidding, really??? --- The energy utilised by the turbo
>is waste heat from the engine and not taken from the crankshaft as the source
>of the energy used to drive the turbo.
>
>
Are you guys saying that a turbo charger uses heat to make it work.  I
always thought it was the volume of gases thru the exhaust that made it spin.

Always confused...

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 20:02:24 -0400
Subject: Re: olds service manuals -Reply

Weeeell, I've got one from the 70's and one from the 80's but this is my
first one from the 60's.  I think I'll keep this'n, since I'm sure,
someday, I'll need it, but I'd be glad, if there are any specific sections
that you want photocopied, to do that for you, for the price of copies and
the mail.  Also, if you want, if I find anymore, I can give them your
name/address!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Fri, 28 Feb 1997, Brad Baker wrote:

> Clayton Pierce wrote:
> >
> > Sometimes you can just find somebody whose got a couple of them that will
> > sell one.  I just bought a '68 Olds chassis manual for $20 from somebody
> > who had an extra.  It is not a reprint.  Gosh, now all I need to do is buy
> > a '68 442 or Toro to go along with it :-).
> > Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> > Clayton Pierce,
> > zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
> Hello there, Clayton!! Just the guy I've been looking for. Would you
> like someone to take that '68 Service Manual off your hands? Hmmmm?? I
> would make the BIG sacrifice and make room on my shelves for it if it
> takes up to much space on yours. You're not using it anyway, so why not?
> Please let me know if I can help you find a home for that old manual!;)
>
> Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible
> MailTo:bradbaker@worldnet.att.net
>
>

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 20:18:17 -0400
Subject: Found: 1956 Olds 88

     =

        Last week I put an ad in the local classified paper looking for =

     fender skirts for my '51 98.  I got a call from a guy near me who sa=
id =

     he had ordered skirts for his '56 88 and got the wrong ones.  So I =

     tooled on down to his place to check out if the skirts who fit my ca=
r. =

     =

        Of course, I was pretty sure they wouldn't, but I figured it was =
a =

     good opportunity to check out his car and do some "networking".  =

     Turned out to be a good thing I did, as there may be a deal here.
     =

        He showed me the skirts and (of course) they weren't even close. =
 =

     Then I checked out his car.  Its a '56 88 2dr with a 325 Rocket V8. =
 =

     It was almost completely disassembled (body on frame only).  He had =

     boxes and boxes of (western-used) chrome (#2 1/2 condition), rebuilt=
 =

     engine (.030 over and looked like a "crate" motor....just perfect).
     =

        The body had been off in the past and the frame sandblasted and =

     etch-primed.  Body panels had some rust but no rot.  Very straight =

     car, no dents or dings that I could see.  A lot of work to do, but i=
t =

     was started right.
     =

        History:  A father of one of his friends bought the car new in '5=
6. =

      Drove it for a while and parked it in '64 and forgot about it.  Thi=
s =

     guy didn't want to sell it for some reason, just wanted to keep it. =
 =

     So finally the father died and the son sold it to this guy.  He's ha=
d =

     it for 15 yrs and has been chipping away at it since.  He's now =

     developed back and neck problems so he's given up on it.
     =

        He looking to sell it soon but doesn't have a price yet.  He clai=
ms =

     he's got over $4000 into it so far.  I don't think he realizes its =

     probably worth a fraction of that in present condition.  I think I'l=
l =

     just wait him out...<g>.  I'm sure he'll want his garage space back =

     soon.
     =

        Anyone want to give their 2=A2 as to the value of this car?
     =

     =

     =

     Peter G. Teubel
     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '52 Plymouth
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's Car)

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 20:06:28 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

  It's partly exhaust pressure, but mainly its the heat that drives the turbo

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 20:21:02 -0400
Subject: Re: 350

  Generally speaking --- a camshaft with around 270 degrees duration will be
full throttle shifted in the 5500 to 6000 rpm range and a camshaft with 280
degrees duration will be full throttle shifted in the 6000 to 6500 rpm range.
 It's hard to say how the camshaft you suggest would idle without lobe
separation information.


------------------------------

From: scott or sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 20:37:04 -0400
Subject: M-21 Problems solved

Greetings,
Well I just got the car back on the road after having the motor rebuilt
during the winter.  You may recall the problems I had getting the car in
gear.  Well after looking at everyone's extremely helpful responses I
crawled under the car, readjusted the shift linkages and readjusted the
clutch.  I think the big problem was the clutch adjustment.  I do find it
strange that I have only a few threads left for adjustment at the end of the
clutch adjustment rod but it seems to work now.  One more comment, difficult
to contain my excitement, when the motor was rebuilt I put the stock W-30
stick cam back in and you know it's difficult not go out to the garage and
just listen to it idle. :-) Anyway, thanks again!

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 20:51:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88

Well, I don't know if he'd be happy, but I'd say it ain't worth more than
1k to 2k dollars!  OOOOOOOOOHHHHH   I WANT IT!!!!!!!!
I just can't afford it :-(

BTW, does anybody know of a **cheap** restorable '56 88 (preferrably Super
88, but 2dr. hardtop would be fine also) or a 2 door 1949 98?  I would
really be interested in either!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Fri, 28 Feb 1997, Peter Teubel wrote:

>     =20
>         Last week I put an ad in the local classified paper looking for=
=20
>      fender skirts for my '51 98.  I got a call from a guy near me who sa=
id=20
>      he had ordered skirts for his '56 88 and got the wrong ones.  So I=
=20
>      tooled on down to his place to check out if the skirts who fit my ca=
r.=20
>     =20
>         Of course, I was pretty sure they wouldn't, but I figured it was =
a=20
>      good opportunity to check out his car and do some "networking". =20
>      Turned out to be a good thing I did, as there may be a deal here.
>     =20
>         He showed me the skirts and (of course) they weren't even close. =
=20
>      Then I checked out his car.  Its a '56 88 2dr with a 325 Rocket V8. =
=20
>      It was almost completely disassembled (body on frame only).  He had=
=20
>      boxes and boxes of (western-used) chrome (#2 1/2 condition), rebuilt=
=20
>      engine (.030 over and looked like a "crate" motor....just perfect).
>     =20
>         The body had been off in the past and the frame sandblasted and=
=20
>      etch-primed.  Body panels had some rust but no rot.  Very straight=
=20
>      car, no dents or dings that I could see.  A lot of work to do, but i=
t=20
>      was started right.
>     =20
>         History:  A father of one of his friends bought the car new in '5=
6.=20
>       Drove it for a while and parked it in '64 and forgot about it.  Thi=
s=20
>      guy didn't want to sell it for some reason, just wanted to keep it. =
=20
>      So finally the father died and the son sold it to this guy.  He's ha=
d=20
>      it for 15 yrs and has been chipping away at it since.  He's now=20
>      developed back and neck problems so he's given up on it.
>     =20
>         He looking to sell it soon but doesn't have a price yet.  He clai=
ms=20
>      he's got over $4000 into it so far.  I don't think he realizes its=
=20
>      probably worth a fraction of that in present condition.  I think I'l=
l=20
>      just wait him out...<g>.  I'm sure he'll want his garage space back=
=20
>      soon.
>     =20
>         Anyone want to give their 2=A2 as to the value of this car?
>     =20
>     =20
>     =20
>      Peter G. Teubel
>      pteubel@safety1st.com
>      '51 98
>      '52 Plymouth
>      '82 98
>      '86 Ciera (Wife's Car)
>=20
>=20

------------------------------

From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 21:29:02 -0400
Subject: RE: 350

Thats actually not that big a cam. You could run say 3.55 gears, no =
convertor and have a slight rough idle. Power brakes should be fine. =
When you go over .500 lift and 230 dur at 0.50" then you run into all =
the problems you''ve heard about. That cam is not a lot bigger than =
stock.

- ----------
From: 	prlmteed@idcnet.com[SMTP:prlmteed@idcnet.com]
Sent: 	February 28, 1997 5:10 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	350

I need an educated guess from someone's valuable experience.  Take an =
otherwise=20
stock late 70's 350 and stuff a new cam in in with the following specs: =
lift=20
.448I .472E  duration 270I 280E.  What sort of machine would that give, =
assuming=20
the carb is tweaked to make it run.  Will it idle?  Power guesses?  It =
sounds=20
maybe a little radical to me.

Pat

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 21:40:05 -0400
Subject: For Sale: '77 Hurst/Olds

Hey all,

Got the new Hemmings today.  There's a photo ad in there for the H/O
prototype that someone was inquiring about recently.

Hurst/Olds prototype, only 1977 Hurst/Olds built by Hurst Performance, tons
of documentation, featured in five magazines in 1977 and BOP magazine Nov 93,
the rarest H/O there is, $15,000.  PH: 908-363-4543, NJ

So there ya are.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 15:40:49 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> > My '68 442 convertible has power windows.  They take the place of the
> > crank system.  They are interchangeable, but the 2 don't exist on the
> > same car at the same time.
>
> Just the 4 main windows are powered?  Not the vent windows, right?
> Or do convertibles have vent windows?
>
> Chris Sparks

Chris,

Convertibles have vent windows in 1968.  The Power window mechanisms are
the same as for hardtops.  If one found a hardtop w/power windows &
wanted to put them into the convertible, that isn't hard.  Just get the
wiring that goes from the fuse block, into the doors, & into the quarter
windows.  It merely unplugs.  Don't forget the rubber tubing that
protects the wiring going between the body & the doors.  The window
regulators & all slides are also needed for each window & the motors.
Having the windows themselves isn't necessary as the windows are all
alike.

To install, you merely cut the doors & A-post holes to receive the
rubber tubing.  After removing the crank regulators, install all of the
PW regulators & slides in the predrilled holes in the doors & quarter
window area.  Fish all of the wiring over the top of the dash & into the
doors & quarter window areas, hook up everything there & at the fuse
block, & you are set.

Of course, I did leave out a little cursing, blood letting, sweat, &
tears.  It isn't as bad as it looks though.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 21:51:58 -0400
Subject: Hurst in Hemmings

I just wanted to warn y'all, there is an '84 H/O for sale in March's
Hemmings that is located in Greeneville, TN.  I know the car.  DO NOT BUY
IT.  It looks good, but there are several non-original parts on it, and it
has been sitting without being driven for so long that in my opinion, it
needs a rebuild!  Well, put it this way, last time I saw it running, it
was leaking a couple of quarts/100 miles, and it was only driven for about
300 miles or so, before that, it had been sitting since about '88!  Its
got a good body, and good interior, but it ain't by any stretch worth
10,000!

Just wanted to warn everybody!

Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 23:01:14 -0400
Subject: Orig GM-Delco Power Top Motors FS. (fwd)

Found this on rec.autos.antique... might be of interest to some of you
ragtop types!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: peterpvs@aol.com (Peterpvs)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Orig GM-Delco Power Top Motors FS.
Date: 28 Feb 1997 04:41:57 GMT

I have two original GM-Delco hydraulic power top motors for sale.  These
were used on 60's era Corvairs, Comaros, Chevy's etc.  The serial no is
Delco 5044611 though the last three numbers may be different depending on
manufacture year.

The units are about ten inches long, four in diameter.  One side is the
motor the otherside is the fluid resevoir.  It has three wires, and
up/down and a ground wire.
(I have one on my '64 Corvair and it works great.)

New these repro units go for over $175, I'm selling them for $75.  They
have been bench tested and work.

If interested contact Peterpvs@aol.com

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 23:03:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

Yes it is possible to change to power windows, you would need to get the
complete setup from a 68 cutlass two door ( conv or coupe). Or you can get it
from a 69 cutlass if its the hardtop with vent windows in the fron door. You
dont have to change the windows just the window regulators. It is not an easy
job but is well worth the effort. My son added it to his 71 Supreme Conv. You
would need the wire harness and all for the front doors as well as the rear
1/4 windows.
  Any more info needed please E-mail me at ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

Everett

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 22:50:47 -0400
Subject: 1946-48 grille

 I'm looking for a 1946-48 Olds grille in any repairable condition.

Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 23:24:12 -0400
Subject: still looking

i still need the rear (passenger) tailight for a 1985 delta 88 does anyone
have one they are getting rid of or does anyone live in the new york area and
know of a good junkyard to get one...

- --------------------------
Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
junior627@aol.com
1985 Delta 88
V6 231 3.8L Rwd
- --------------------------

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 22:53:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 350

prlmteed@idcnet.com wrote:
>
> I need an educated guess from someone's valuable experience.  Take an
otherwise > stock late 70's 350 and stuff a new cam in in with the following
specs: lift > .448I .472E  duration 270I 280E.  What sort of machine would
that give, assuming > the carb is tweaked to make it run.  Will it idle?
Power guesses?  It sounds > maybe a little radical to me. > > Pat

That seems to be a little on the wild side. The lift is what seems to be
what is the most radical. As always I ask about compression ratio. Also,
what is your lobe seperation and overlap? The lift will give it a real
"Kickuhpuppy" sound.

Danny

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 00:07:57 -0400
Subject: Re: still looking

     I'll add it to my "list" of parts to look for when I go 'yarding.
     That usually means every 2 weeks or so.


     Peter G. Teubel
     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98
     '52 Plymouth
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera (Wife's Car)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: still looking Author:
Junior627@aol.com at imail Date:    2/28/97 11:24 PM


i still need the rear (passenger) tailight for a 1985 delta 88 does anyone
have one they are getting rid of or does anyone live in the new york area and
know of a good junkyard to get one...

- --------------------------
Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
junior627@aol.com
1985 Delta 88
V6 231 3.8L Rwd
- --------------------------



------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 23:59:48 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

>At 01:06 PM 2/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Jeeze Louise ---  No kidding, really??? --- The energy utilised by the turbo
>>is waste heat from the engine and not taken from the crankshaft as the
source >>of the energy used to drive the turbo. >> >> >Are you guys saying
that a turbo charger uses heat to make it work.  I >always thought it was the
volume of gases thru the exhaust that made it spin. > >Always confused... >
>The Wiz > > >Okay, I'm coming in late on this one, I know...but turbos are
not driven by heat and horsepower is never free.  To say that exhaust flow is
not restricted, even to the slightest degree, by a turbine placed directly in
 its path is not plausible.  Granted, the turbo produces more horsepower than
 it absorbs, but it is the "windmill" effect of the exhaust gases that drive
it. Mike Evans Richland, MI evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: Olds455cut@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 00:32:31 -0400
Subject: Re: still looking

GI Auto (salvage yard) is located in Pinebrook, NJ on Rt46.  It has maybe 40
or more  80's Oldsmobiles, mostly cutlass'.  If I stop by this weekend I will
look for the tail light and get back to you.  If I do find it and it is in
good shape, do you want me to buy it?  How much are you looking to spend?

Jerry

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 01:57:46 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

   OK guys,
                  I went through my small collection of engine books and
found a few snips from Hot Rod's High Performance Series, Volume 4 #1  1987.

" In terms of thermodynamic theory, the turbo sounds almost too good to be
true.  Remember, your small block Chevy is a heat engine (combustion converts
fuel energy to heat; heat makes the air in the cylinder expand;  this pushes
the piston}, But what comes out the exhaust?  Hot, pressurised air.  Any heat
and pressure above ambient that goes out the tailpipe is energy -- horsepower
and fuel economy wasted.  Thirtyfive percent or more of your engine's
potential power goes out the exhaust.  The turbo can't directly increase your
engine's thermal efficiency (percentage of potential heat energy in the fuel
converted to work at the crank}, but it uses the wasted thermal power to
greatly increase the engine's volumetric efficiency. A belt-driven blower, by
contrast, not only lets exhaust energy escape, but it steals a further
percentage of the engine's power directly from the crankshaft."

  Nuff said lets move on

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 02:02:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88

At 08:18 PM 2/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>    =20
>        Last week I put an ad in the local classified paper looking for=20
>     fender skirts for my '51 98.  I got a call from a guy near me who said=
=20
>     he had ordered skirts for his '56 88 and got the wrong ones.  So I=20
>     tooled on down to his place to check out if the skirts who fit my car.=
=20
>    =20
>        Of course, I was pretty sure they wouldn't, but I figured it was a=
=20
>     good opportunity to check out his car and do some "networking". =20
>     Turned out to be a good thing I did, as there may be a deal here.
>    =20
>        He showed me the skirts and (of course) they weren't even close. =
=20
>     Then I checked out his car.  Its a '56 88 2dr with a 325 Rocket V8. =
=20
>     It was almost completely disassembled (body on frame only).  He had=20
>     boxes and boxes of (western-used) chrome (#2 1/2 condition), rebuilt=
=20
>     engine (.030 over and looked like a "crate" motor....just perfect).
>    =20
>        The body had been off in the past and the frame sandblasted and=20
>     etch-primed.  Body panels had some rust but no rot.  Very straight=20
>     car, no dents or dings that I could see.  A lot of work to do, but it=
=20
>     was started right.
>    =20
>        History:  A father of one of his friends bought the car new in '56.=
=20
>      Drove it for a while and parked it in '64 and forgot about it.  This=
=20
>     guy didn't want to sell it for some reason, just wanted to keep it. =
=20
>     So finally the father died and the son sold it to this guy.  He's had=
=20
>     it for 15 yrs and has been chipping away at it since.  He's now=20
>     developed back and neck problems so he's given up on it.
>    =20
>        He looking to sell it soon but doesn't have a price yet.  He claims=
=20
>     he's got over $4000 into it so far.  I don't think he realizes its=20
>     probably worth a fraction of that in present condition.  I think I'll=
=20
>     just wait him out...<g>.  I'm sure he'll want his garage space back=20
>     soon.
>    =20
>        Anyone want to give their 2=A2 as to the value of this car?
>    =20
>    =20
>    =20
>     Peter G. Teubel
>     pteubel@safety1st.com
>     '51 98
>     '52 Plymouth
>     '82 98
>     '86 Ciera (Wife's Car)
>
>
For the dedicated restorer, that knows the car he's looking over, a
basketcase is the best of all possible worlds.  The seller has already done
1/3rd of the work, and it's worth far less than if it were still together.

For the newboy, it's the worst possible condition to consider.  It is
impossible to tell what's missing if you don't know what to look for.  When
a car is assembeled, it is obvious that the right door is missing, something
not so easily ascertained when the car is in a basket.

I have over $2000. in engine work on my 1931 Oldsmobile six.  I have at
least another $500. in acquiring missing or parts to badly damaged to be
used, and I'm far from having them all.  The bearings, brakes and small
parts in the two axels were a bit over $300.  A new exhaust system was about
$150. and I still need a platable front bumper and the proper engine
waterjacket plate.  I can easily show $3000. right now, and it doesn't
include the original acquisition cost of the car.

My '31 still needs stripping, painting, plating, upholstery, a small amount
of wood work, and what ever is missing replaced.  I've been estimating the
upholstery over the last couple of weeks, and it comes to a number well in
excess of $1000., not installed.  And my list goes on...

Your man could easily have $4000. in that car if he had the work done
'right.'  That doesn't mean that he can recover those costs, but I can see
the popssibilities of the dollars being there.

The value of the car is its finished value less what it will take to finish.
It is not impossible that the real value, today is, less than -0-, he need
to pay you a couple of thousand to take it off of his hands.  Not a likely
situation, in fact, but the figures could easily appear that way.

This is one of those cases where you pay what you feel is fair or right.  If
you are looking to do the car as a Gr. 2, and it needs paint, upholstery and
the chrome brought up to Gr. 2, add up what you expect it will cost, deduct
from its finished #2 value, and get a representation of a number.

If I wanted that '56 I would start talking at $1000. and see where it took
me.  Be totally negotable.  He may take the $1K and run, happy to get away
from it.  He may easily balk, and start working around the figure he
extimates it has cost him so far.  The fun of collecting anything, old cars
included, is the negotiations required for its acquisition.  Also, it is
absolutely necessary that you do your homework and figure the problem.
Discern its value, and never pay more.  Remember, '56s were made in the
hundreds of thousands, and many of them still survive.  My mother always
said that "old cars are like streetcars, there will be another along in a
little while." =20

There is a reason that there are 'big numbers' cars. Collectors will usually
collect to a theme.  I know a man that collects Fords.  The theme of his
collection is one from every year.  His collection includes a 1943 GPW Jeep,
a 1944 GTBS 'Berma Jeep' bomb service truck, and is trying to fill in 1945.
There was a 1945 M4 Sherman tank in Mass. a couple of years ago, and I think
he was hot on it.  I have not spoken with him since the Chickasha, Oklahoma
meet a couple of years ago, so I don't know if he's accomplished this feat
yet.  Some models are very difficult to acquire, and when there is a lot of
desire for that model they can fetch interesting to outlandish prices.  But
to just find a '56 Oldsmobile in an acquaintances garage does not make it a
'70 4-4-42 W30 with 8,000 miles on the clock and everything original from
the factory including the tires, and the air in the tires.

That '56 is in fact a very mundane, read that run of the mill Oldsmobile.
If you can't get that one another car of similar interest will.  Unless the
nostalaga edge has kicked in because that is the model car you learned to
drive in or something, don't go crazy with the old checkbook.  A '56 Olds is
not a '56 Chevy, and is worth an order of magatude less, everything else
considered.

Good luck, and bring that '56 to Lansing this summer.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 02:05:16 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

At 08:06 PM 2/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>  It's partly exhaust pressure, but mainly its the heat that drives the turbo
>
>
You've got my ear.  As you can possible tell I have no experience with turbo
chargers, and am looking for a primer.  Please elaborate....


The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 02:17:39 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

At 11:59 PM 2/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>At 01:06 PM 2/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>>Jeeze Louise ---  No kidding, really??? --- The energy utilised by the
turbo >>>is waste heat from the engine and not taken from the crankshaft as
the source >>>of the energy used to drive the turbo. >>> >>> >>Are you guys
saying that a turbo charger uses heat to make it work.  I >>always thought it
was the volume of gases thru the exhaust that made it spin. >> >>Always
confused... >> >>The Wiz >> >> >>Okay, I'm coming in late on this one, I
know...but turbos are not driven by >heat and horsepower is never free.  To
say that exhaust flow is not >restricted, even to the slightest degree, by a
turbine placed directly in >its path is not plausible.  Granted, the turbo
produces more horsepower than >it absorbs, but it is the "windmill" effect of
the exhaust gases that drive it. >Mike Evans >Richland, MI
>evans1@net-link.net > Thanks Mike,

A few minutes ago, I posted a response to a notion that the bulk of the
'drive' of a turbo charger came from the heat of the exhaust, which leaves
me still a bit confused.  I find your answer to be much more plauasble.
Also, I believe that the 'free horsepower' aspects of turbo charging come
from the fact that the horsepower the motor produces increased because of
the 'boost' and the increase is MORE than the power drain from driving the
turbo.  Thus you obtain a gross hp advance, and it is obtained by being
greater than the cost, ie, there is a power usage in the turbo, but it is
overridden + by the amount of the advance.

Keep this thread going, turbo charging was rare in automobiles when I was
still playing with newer cars, and I never had one or played with one.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 02:31:07 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

At 01:57 AM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>   OK guys,
>                  I went through my small collection of engine books and
>found a few snips from Hot Rod's High Performance Series, Volume 4 #1  1987.
>
>" In terms of thermodynamic theory, the turbo sounds almost too good to be
>true.  Remember, your small block Chevy is a heat engine (combustion converts
>fuel energy to heat; heat makes the air in the cylinder expand;  this pushes
>the piston}, But what comes out the exhaust?  Hot, pressurised air.  Any heat
>and pressure above ambient that goes out the tailpipe is energy -- horsepower
>and fuel economy wasted.  Thirtyfive percent or more of your engine's
>potential power goes out the exhaust.  The turbo can't directly increase your
>engine's thermal efficiency (percentage of potential heat energy in the fuel
>converted to work at the crank}, but it uses the wasted thermal power to
>greatly increase the engine's volumetric efficiency. A belt-driven blower, by
>contrast, not only lets exhaust energy escape, but it steals a further
>percentage of the engine's power directly from the crankshaft."
>
>  Nuff said lets move on
>

Ok, I'll throw a turbo charger in a bonfire, and it's going to make the fire
rage, right!

I agree that the heat and pressure above the ambient is energy, but I'm
still not comprehending using the heat to drive the turbo.  I think its the
pressure that drives the turbo.  Off the top of my rather pointed head I
believe that the waste heat passes thru the turbo charger and continues down
exhaust pipe, still as waste heat.

Before this thread started, I thought that when the exhaust valve opened,
the expanded charge was passing down the exhaust pipe.  The charge being of
considerable volume and heat, then pushed the turbo, causing it to spin. Now
let us put a heat exchanger between the exhaust valve and the turbo, a very
efficient one that will bring the exhaust temperature down to the ambient.
In doing this, will the turbo now fail to work.  Isn't the exhaust volume
still considerable?  Even though at a lower temperature.

Remember, what they have been saying about Missourians for many years, 'show
me.'

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 02:32:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome

  Has anybody here heard of Ogden Chrome?  It's in Utah, im just wondering
because i saw some parts that were done for a 40 Cadillace by them and they
turned out beautiful.  I got to see some of the parts before they were sent
out and they were rusted and pitted bad enough that i almost got a rust
sliver stuck under my fingernail from picking at them..
   Anyway its kindof a lead for anybody out there with badly damaged bright
work.

Oh yeah -- there is also a guy in Nephi Utah by the name of Lloyd Brough who
sells antique cars and is a great parts locater for offbeat cars -- It's been
about 10 years since ive talked to him, but i don't think he would forget the
kid that bought the 56 Olds from him for $200 wish i still had his number --
the area code for Utah is 801 for the whole state so it should be easy for
anybody with a little ambition to locate him.
  Happy Hunting

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 02:41:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome

At 02:32 AM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>  Has anybody here heard of Ogden Chrome?  It's in Utah, im just wondering
>because i saw some parts that were done for a 40 Cadillace by them and they
>turned out beautiful.  I got to see some of the parts before they were sent
>out and they were rusted and pitted bad enough that i almost got a rust
>sliver stuck under my fingernail from picking at them..
>   Anyway its kindof a lead for anybody out there with badly damaged bright
>work.
>
>Oh yeah -- there is also a guy in Nephi Utah by the name of Lloyd Brough who
>sells antique cars and is a great parts locater for offbeat cars -- It's been
>about 10 years since ive talked to him, but i don't think he would forget the
>kid that bought the 56 Olds from him for $200 wish i still had his number --
>the area code for Utah is 801 for the whole state so it should be easy for
>anybody with a little ambition to locate him.
>  Happy Hunting
>
>
I have the entire phone book of the United States, and would find a number
for you, if I could figure out why my CD drive stopped working.

Anon. I

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 03:21:48 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

  Wind is Wind, Wiz.   I have plain run out the energy or ambition to explain
it any further.
  Well....maybe just one last try -- you use a heat exchanger to remove the
heat out of the air charge -- the air will contract, no?  Volume is different
than mass in a spacial environment (Sorry science guys that's the best way i
know how to explain it)
 OK  also if you take the heat out of the exhaust charge what are you doing
then?
You are removing the energy from the charge,  Remember heat is energy, that's
how an internal combustion engine works; off of heat.
  So now, what have we done?  We have reduced the volume of the air, and we
have reduced the energy potential of the air to zero.  We now have two things
left to discuss -- The mass of the air (wich is the weight of the air) and
the movement of the air (inertia imparted to it by the movement of the
piston).  So now we have four puffs of  ambient air per crankshaft revolution
moving against the turbine, that is if there is enough enertia left in the
air to make it out of the exhaust manifold, through the heat exchanger and to
the turbo.
  No i haven't forgotten that inertia is stored energy
  Nope the turbo is not going to work.
Get it, Got it, Good!


------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 03:23:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome: Wiz

 Oh yeah i forgot to tell you i cast that little spell on your drive

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 03:39:10 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

At 03:21 AM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>  Wind is Wind, Wiz.   I have plain run out the energy or ambition to explain
>it any further.
>  Well....maybe just one last try -- you use a heat exchanger to remove the
>heat out of the air charge -- the air will contract, no?  Volume is different
>than mass in a spacial environment (Sorry science guys that's the best way i
>know how to explain it)
> OK  also if you take the heat out of the exhaust charge what are you doing
>then?
>You are removing the energy from the charge,  Remember heat is energy, that's
>how an internal combustion engine works; off of heat.
>  So now, what have we done?  We have reduced the volume of the air, and we
>have reduced the energy potential of the air to zero.  We now have two things
>left to discuss -- The mass of the air (wich is the weight of the air) and
>the movement of the air (inertia imparted to it by the movement of the
>piston).  So now we have four puffs of  ambient air per crankshaft revolution
>moving against the turbine, that is if there is enough enertia left in the
>air to make it out of the exhaust manifold, through the heat exchanger and to
>the turbo.
>  No i haven't forgotten that inertia is stored energy
>  Nope the turbo is not going to work.
>Get it, Got it, Good!
>
>
>

I got it.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Gail Adams <gadams@remc7.k12.mi.us>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 09:08:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

Ray, Did you ever find the top to that washer jar?  I'd like to know
where if you did. If you don't get any response to this, I could probably
help.  Mine works beautifully; I'm even amazed that after the car sits
for an extended period, you only need to push the button once or twice
and BINGO, the car you just washed is all wet (smile)
Tom Adams

On Fri, 28 Feb 1997 chray@Logical.Net wrote:

> HELP!!!!!!!
>
> I am looking for the vacuum schematics for the windshield wiper washer fluid
> system for my 1956 Oldsmobile.  Does anyone have a copy of this?  Does
> anyone know where I can obtain a copy of this?  Is anyone familiar with this
> system of hoses?  Please e-mail me at chray@logical.net with any information
> at all.  Thank you...
>
> Ray Rettig
> 1956 Rocket 88 4-door sedan.
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 11:26:07 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

The following is a list of Olds parts for sale.

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
Grille Assm     $75.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $75.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors    $45.00pr

67 Cutlass/442
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
400/425 NOS Water Pump   $75.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00pr (cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00ea

67 Toronado
Dash Gauge Bezel   $55.00
Rear Glass    $50.00
Package Tray    $25.00

68 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00ea
Headlight Doors    $5.00ea
Trunk Chrome Molding   $50.00set
Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

68 Toronado
Headlight Vacuum Actuator    $50.00
Headlight Switch     $10.00
Dash Gauges    $10.00ea
Front Bumper    $75.00
Rear Bumper    $75.00
Turn Signal Lens   $65.00pr
Radiator Top Plate   $35.00

69 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors   $50.00pr
Hood Tongue   $15.00
Hood Hinges   $20.00pr
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $75.00
Black Inner Fenders    $80.00pr

70 Cutlass/442
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $20.00ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00pr
Hood Hinges  $20.00pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00pr
Rear Upper Control Arms   $50.00pr
OAI Hood Pins (nice used)  $30.00pr
455 Distributor #1111978 (2nd design)   $25.00
455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
(Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
70 AM/FM Mono w/amp $85.00
70-72 Power Disc Brake Booster w/ master cyl. $75.00 as is
($135.00 rebuilt & detailed)
70-72 Bumper Bracket Sets $40.00 set

72 Cutlass/442
New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  $20.00
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00set
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (set) 135.00
Boxed Lower Control Arms  $60.00pr
Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00ea
Edelbrock Performer Intake (small block)  $100.00

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00set

**** New stuff to list****
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
68 442 Hood Louver Set $50.00 set (3)
68 Front Hood Molding (small scratch, no pitts)  $15.00
68-69 Left Quarter Panel (whole thing to roof, no rust w/inner wheelwell)
$325.00
68-72 Lower Control Arms  (Oval Bushings)  $65.00 ea (used)  $120.00 ea
(rebuilt)
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $50.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louover Bezels $40.00 pr
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Rear Side Glass $75.00 ea
70-72 Dash Clocks  $20.00 ea
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
New Window Fuzzies 68-72 Holiday Coupe $40.00 set (Flat style)
71-7? 10 Bolt 2.73:1  Anti-Spin Rear End   $350.00
Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea
T-3 Headlight Sets $40.00 set (nice working used)
14x7 SSII Wheel Set (4) (bolt on cap) $200.00 set
14x6 SSIII Wheels (newer snap on cap)  $25.00ea

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming! Also looking at
reproducing the difficult to locate 70-72 Auto Trans Console Indicator.
$24.00 ea new. Let us know if your interested.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: chray@Logical.Net
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 12:12:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 1956 Oldsmobile Vacuum Schematics

Tom:
        I am going to make the top to the jar.  Haven't been able to locate
one yet.  The jar fits great.  You don't happen to have the schematics do
you?????

Ray Rettig




At 09:08 AM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Ray, Did you ever find the top to that washer jar?  I'd like to know
>where if you did. If you don't get any response to this, I could probably
>help.  Mine works beautifully; I'm even amazed that after the car sits
>for an extended period, you only need to push the button once or twice
>and BINGO, the car you just washed is all wet (smile)
>Tom Adams
>
>On Fri, 28 Feb 1997 chray@Logical.Net wrote:
>
>> HELP!!!!!!!
>>
>> I am looking for the vacuum schematics for the windshield wiper washer
fluid >> system for my 1956 Oldsmobile.  Does anyone have a copy of this?
Does >> anyone know where I can obtain a copy of this?  Is anyone familiar
with this >> system of hoses?  Please e-mail me at chray@logical.net with any
information >> at all.  Thank you... >> >> Ray Rettig >> 1956 Rocket 88
4-door sedan. >> >> >> > >

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 12:27:08 -0400
Subject: Re: 1946-48 grille

> I'm looking for a 1946-48 Olds grille in any repairable condition.
>
>Glenn
>'69 4-4-2
>
>I may have talked to you before, but I know a guy that has a '47 grille
that is perfect - no cracks - that needs plated, but he wants $200.


>
>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: Ray Rettig & Chris Galvin <chray@Logical.Net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 15:25:52 -0400
Subject: 1956 Olds

I am looking for the vacuum schematics for the windshield wiper washer
fluid system for my 1956 Olds.  If you have this or know how I can
obtain a copy or know how this system works please e-mail me at
chray@logical.net.
	Thank you...

Ray Rettig

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 12:34:51 -0400
Subject: Re:  Internet Phone Directory

For those of you who have lost a phone number or are trying to locate the
number of a business, try the website www.switchboard.com.

You can locate the phone number of any individual or business in the U.S.
and it is updated instantaneously.  So much for the $12 CD's.

Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 12:36:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Found: 1956 Olds 88: Chrome

>At 02:32 AM 3/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>  Has anybody here heard of Ogden Chrome?  It's in Utah, im just wondering
>>because i saw some parts that were done for a 40 Cadillace by them and they
>>turned out beautiful.  I got to see some of the parts before they were sent
>>out and they were rusted and pitted bad enough that i almost got a rust
>>sliver stuck under my fingernail from picking at them..
>>   Anyway its kindof a lead for anybody out there with badly damaged bright
>>work.
>>
>>Oh yeah -- there is also a guy in Nephi Utah by the name of Lloyd Brough who
>>sells antique cars and is a great parts locater for offbeat cars -- It's
been >>about 10 years since ive talked to him, but i don't think he would
forget the >>kid that bought the 56 Olds from him for $200 wish i still had
his number -- >>the area code for Utah is 801 for the whole state so it should
be easy for >>anybody with a little ambition to locate him. >>  Happy Hunting
>> >> >I have the entire phone book of the United States, and would find a
number >for you, if I could figure out why my CD drive stopped working. >
>Anon. I > >Lloyd Brough's phone number in Delphi, UT is 801-623-0144.  And if
you want to look up anyone or any business in the U.S.  try the website
www.switchboard.com.  Numbers are updated instantly.


>
>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 14:06:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists?

> >> > the 1950's list i think it is a good idea, but what are the "cut off
dates" > >> > >> I've seen a lot of interest here in a 50's list; I've also
seen a lot > >> of interest in an early 60's list, which would be different.
I may > >> run a 50's list (ie. 1950..1959) > > > >       For whatever it's
worth, I would suggest that a the list be > >extended to 1960, since the '59s
and '60s were virtually identical under > >the skin.  (and I'm sure it's
equally impossible to find parts for them) > >It was 1961 that GM had one of
it's major overhauls. And > >besides, the '60s have thoes cool horozontal fins
that look "oh so 50s" :)

FWIW I'd like to see this stay part of the Olds list.  While my main
interest is 442s, mainly early '70s, I'd like to pick up info on earlier
Olds.  The early '60 are getting to me (especially the Starfire and
Delmont), and the more I see and hear about the '50s, the more I'm
interested in them.  There's a nice looking '38 Olds on Brycemans page
which is making me want something of that genre, not to mention my wife
wants a "rod", and what could be better than an Olds rod.

To sum it up, while it's nice to have a "dedicated" list, by having as
much variety as possible people will gain an appreciation for the rest
of the years/models.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 14:23:44 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

;
>
> I agree that the heat and pressure above the ambient is energy, but I'm
> still not comprehending using the heat to drive the turbo.  I think its
the
> pressure that drives the turbo.  Off the top of my rather pointed head I
> believe that the waste heat passes thru the turbo charger and continues
down
> exhaust pipe, still as waste heat.
>
> Before this thread started, I thought that when the exhaust valve opened,
> the expanded charge was passing down the exhaust pipe.  The charge being
of
> considerable volume and heat, then pushed the turbo, causing it to spin.
Now
> let us put a heat exchanger between the exhaust valve and the turbo, a
very
> efficient one that will bring the exhaust temperature down to the
ambient.
> In doing this, will the turbo now fail to work.  Isn't the exhaust volume
> still considerable?  Even though at a lower temperature.
>
> Remember, what they have been saying about Missourians for many years,
'show
> me.'
>
> The Wiz
>
> I am going to have to go with the Wiz on this one. I think the heat is
simply a unavoidable result of the combustion and doesn't help drive the
turbo except from what ever expansion it gives the exaust gasses. The turbo
would probably be a lot happier and the intake air cooler if the exaust gas
wern't hot. I am sure some of the heat is transfered into the intake side.
The cooler the intake side can be kept the more power the engine will make.


------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #543
********************************
