To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #538


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, 26 February 1997    Volume 01 : Number 538

Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists?
65 442 dash question
Re: 65 442 dash question
70' 442-W30
Looking for
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: 70' 442-W30
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: 70' 442-W30
Re: 70' 442-W30
Re: High RPM Stress con'd
Drive anything *not*
Re: 394 for sale...
Re: Looking for
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: Need Positraction
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: 65 442 dash question
Re: 394
Re: 65 442 dash question
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: Meaningless BS
About that Ciera with the Brake Problem...
Re: Edelbrock Olds Heads
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: High RPM Stress con'd
Re: 65 442 dash question
Re: High RPM stress
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: High RPM Stress con'd
Vapor Lock (was Re: Meaningless BS)
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: List Suggestions
Re: FOUNDRY, REPRODUCING, CHROMEWORK...............
Re: 79 Cutlass Ralleye Pack
Re[2]: Meaningless BS
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: 79 Cutlass Ralleye Pack
Re: Edelbrock Olds Heads
Re: Meaningless BS
Re: Vapor Lock (was Re: Meaningless BS)
WANTED: 71-72 CUTLASS RALLY GUAGE PACK
Re: Meaningless BS
Re:  Meaningless BS (Vapor lock)
Re: Adjustable Valves
Re: Bummer
Re: 70' 442-W30
Many Thanks
GM Parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 04:23:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 50's Oldsmobile lists?

sguiller@stumail.engr.udayton.edu wrote:
>
>
>
> Well, in that case, my '65 Starfire must be pretty lonely, too.  I've
> seen a lot more '61's and '62's than '65's (I must admit, those early
> convertibles are pretty neat, though)
> Following this growing trend, I should join a '65 Starfire discussion
> group myself,  However, I'm afraid I'd be the only one there!
>
> "Carpe momentum"
> Shaun R. Guillermin

Shaun,

I just looked again at a 1966 Starfire that was offered to me for $600.
That is one luxurious car w/many Toro features.  Some say that the Toro
is what finally beat out the Starfire in the marketplace.  We also have
a 1966 Starfire a couple of blocks from me that is in wonderful
condition but asking between $6000 & $8000.  That car is spectacular.

With nearly 20 cars & only 1 garage, 1 barn, & 1 acre here in town, I am
limited.  Have I mentioned finances at all?  I sure hate to see those
cars in limbo like that.

Speaking of cars, I was able to look at this junque yarde as I am trying
to help Esko get a 394 for his '64 Ninety.  They had the '62 Starfire
that I was purposely looking for.  Also was an 83 H/O w/the wing, doors,
front clip, console, engine & transmission gone.  The interior was there
& so was at least one T-top panel.  Anyone need some of what was left?

There was a '70 Vista Cruiser there too.  It was complete w/350 single
exhaust.  Also was a '74 442 w/a 4 barrel engine, 74 Cutlass Supreme
w/swivel seats, & 67 Cutlass Supreme 4-door hardtop complete.  All were
mostly complete rust free cars.  The only price I got was $400 for the
Starfire engine & trans.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "JOHN L. BERENYI" <berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:36:32 -0400
Subject: 65 442 dash question

Is the 1965 442 dash made from good ol' steel or is it that lousy
plastic like the ones on the 66-67 442's?


John

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:42:51 -0400
Subject: Re: 65 442 dash question


> Is the 1965 442 dash made from good ol' steel or is it that lousy
> plastic like the ones on the 66-67 442's?

John:

Like the 66-67s, I think the dashes are made of a combination of good ol'
steel and lousy plastic.

You'll just have to get an Olds from the extremely early 60s, or the '50s and
earlier, if'n you got a prob with plastic...



Tim (Happy With the Restored Lousy Plastic in His Dash) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: rdeeba <rdeeba@primary.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:39:42 -0400
Subject: 70' 442-W30

What are the best tires to put on the 1970 Olds 442-W30 for normal
street driving.  Thanks for the opportunity to ask the question.

Rick Deeba

------------------------------

From: Bruce Woods <executivesearch@mymail.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:00:39 -0400
Subject: Looking for

I would like to find a 1969 to 1974 Delta 88 Royale convertible in excellent
to mint shape. I live in Dallas. Car needs to be a dry car. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:55:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

At 09:09 AM 2/26/97 -0500, you wrote:
>On a 1979 350 4bbl VIN Engine Code R...Do the heads have adjustable
>valves?

No. No Olds motors after 1965 have adjustable valves (or an adjustable
valvetrain).

You can make it adjustable, but you probably don"t need to.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:59:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 70' 442-W30

If it was me, I'd probably just get a set of Goodyears w/ raised white
letters, a good traction/tread rating, and "z" speed rating.  Probably I'd
put 245/60/15's on the back and 225/60/15's on the front, although I might
be able to be talked into going to a 65 series tire.  I tell you what, you
give me a '70 442-W-30 and we'll see what tires I put on it ;-)  I'm
kidding of course.  I'm just jealous because I don't own one ;-).  I hope
that I've helped, of course, you might want to gather some more opinions
before you head to the tire store.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, rdeeba wrote:

> What are the best tires to put on the 1970 Olds 442-W30 for normal
> street driving.  Thanks for the opportunity to ask the question.
>
> Rick Deeba
>
>

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:11:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> At 09:09 AM 2/26/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >On a 1979 350 4bbl VIN Engine Code R...Do the heads have adjustable
> >valves?
>
> No. No Olds motors after 1965 have adjustable valves (or an adjustable
> valvetrain).
>
> You can make it adjustable, but you probably don"t need to.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918


What do you mean I could make it adjustable.  I just started getting a
valve tap and I wanted to re-adjust them to spec so that I could fix the
tap.  If they aren't adjustable, what are my other options?

						Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:10:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 70' 442-W30

On Feb 26, 10:39am, rdeeba wrote:
> Subject: 70' 442-W30
> What are the best tires to put on the 1970 Olds 442-W30 for normal
> street driving.  Thanks for the opportunity to ask the question.
>
> Rick Deeba
>
>-- End of excerpt from rdeeba

	I have a set of B.F.Goodrich Radial T/A's on my W30 and I like the way
they ride and handle.

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:16:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 70' 442-W30

I like round tires with tread for normal daily driving. :)
I just bought a set of Uniroyals for my 4-4-2, the size is 235R60-14.	
You may find some difficulty locating a decent tire in a 14" rim size.
Most of the tire manufacturers are dropping the 60 and 70 series tires
in 14".  Plenty to choose from in 15" and 16".  Just buy a quality
radial.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:27:10 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd

At 04:23 AM 2/26/97 -0500, you wrote:
[snip]
>>However, I believe the compression would be an important factor in the
>>bearing stress.  If you have compressed gas (air, or fuel and air) in
[snip]
>The concept I've been led to understand is that the failure points are the
>rod cap seperation and rod stretch.  (generally speaking)  On the power and
>intake (down) strokes, the momentum of the upper components is contained by
>the crankshaft, but the rod cap is only bolted on, with nothing solid
>supporting its lower half.  On the compression and exhaust strokes (remember
>the four strokes: Suck, Squeeze, Bang, and Blow... They teached us goodly in
>colledge!) the upward strokes, all of the inertia is pushing up, but when
>the crank says it's time to turn, and the piston wants to take it's time
>doing so, the rod has a tendancy to stretch out.  I can't see compression

Actually, at least on the compression stroke, there's a gang of gasoline and
air molecules up there at the top of the cylinder saying "Hey, look at that
piston; where does he think *he's* going? This is OUR neighborhood!" (kinda
like the street toughs in "A Bronx Tale") Then they start getting all
agitated, and they start pushing that piston back where he "belongs", and
then the piston has to get out of the way fast, so he starts pushing back on
the rod to get back home. [i.e. the momentum of the piston is not changed by
the forces of the rod alone, so rod failure is less likely to occur]

It's only when "Mom" (the crankshaft) tells little piston and rod to go out
to play again, and that "Gas & Air Gang" are no longer hanging out in the
combustion chamber, that the piston gets tugged from behind by sister rod,
who is herself being called home by Mom, that some little rods feel the need
to "free" themselves from the crankshaft, and do so on the exhaust stroke.
Of course, the piston isn't expecting this, so heads straight on into the
combustion chamber, kinda like an old slapstick humor movie. [i.e. if the
rod's going to fail at the main cap, it will likely be on the exhaust stroke]

[big ol' fat snip]

and "The Wiz" chimes in:
>>I like this avenue of thought on this subject.  Can you elaborate on how the
>>viscosity or oil pressure can contibute to engine failure at high RPM, and
>>not caused something detremental at idle.  If there is insufficent oil
>>pressure at high rpm, it must have been in negative numbers at idle.
[snip]
>Heat and oil starvation are the big culprits here.  The excess heat of high
>rpm use can break down the oil, and the high rpm ranges are more susceptible
[snip of more good explanations]
>oil drainback to the pan.  Or at least the drainback isn't fast enough.
>Soooo, for a brief moment, the engine is running with no oil at high speeds.
>Ouch.  Often it may be quick enough for the oil guage to not even register a
>dip, but it's still just as painful to the bearings.

The other reason for oil failure at high rpm, when everybody is happy at low
rpms, is the fact that the increased forces of high rpms are more likely to
"squeeze" the oil film out from between the journal and the bearing.
Besides, there is a certain minimum oil pressure for most engines
(~20-40psi) that the oil pump puts out when the engine is idling.

The oil pump needs a pressure relief valve, because the pressure the pump
puts out is proportional to engine rpm, and you'd quickly have over 100psi
of oil pressure (about 50psi more than you need). If the bearing clearances
are too wide, the excess capacity of the oil pump at low rpms will
compensate for the excess oil being squirted out past the rod and main
bearings, but at high rpms, where there is less of a margin of pump
capacity, the oil pressure relief valve may be kicking in as normal (say,
55psi), but by the time you get to main bearing #1 and rod bearings #'s 1
and 2, your oil pressure may have dropped drastically due to all the oil
that has leaked past mains # 2, 3, 4, 5 and rods # 3-8. So though your oil
pump may be fine, and think it's providing plenty of pressure (hey, it just
pumped 55psi into the primary oil gallery; it's not the *oil pump's* fault
that all the other bearings are wastefull, and don't have enough to share
with those bearings at the front of the engine), you've just spun a bearing.

BTW, when you spin a bearing on an Olds engine, it will at the very front.
If you check out a used Olds motor, begin with that first crank journal.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:26:12 -0400
Subject: Drive anything *not*

I just read the story where Wiz told about the difficulties in
driving a T-Ford. Never driven one. That must be funny.

Instead, I had an opportunity to drive a harvester that didn't have
wheels. The harvester had six legs and looked out like a spindle.
That machine looked VERY humoristic when it was "walking" in the
forest.

Surprize: It was both easy and fun to drive.

You controlled the thingy with a joystick. And that machine had an
amazing climb ability. Didn't dare to ride it where it could go easily.

If you have a chance to try one, don't hesitate, it's fun.

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 10:40:36 -0400
Subject: Re: 394 for sale...

At 10:21 PM 2/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>John
>> I have a 64 Dynamic 88 I'm parting out, it is still running and driving,
its >>body is real bad. I'll sell the eng & trans for 650.00 strap it to a
pallet<<<SNIP>>>

>> Wasn't one of the guys in Finland looking for a 394 too.  He may be a good
>> bet if you don't sell it in Dallas.  As I remember he can get a
>> trans-shipment thru Philadelphia.

>>The Wiz

Actually I need a project engine.

Shipment is NOT a problem. Our local shipping agent is very helpful and is
currently checking shipment from Alabama.


- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:36:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for

At 11:00 AM 2/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I would like to find a 1969 to 1974 Delta 88 Royale convertible in
excellent to mint
>shape. I live in Dallas. Car needs to be a dry car. Thanks.

Darn.  I keep mine in the swimming pool.  Guess that leaves me out.

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:36:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

At 10:11 AM 2/26/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> >On a 1979 350 4bbl VIN Engine Code R...Do the heads have adjustable
>> >valves?
>>
>> No. No Olds motors after 1965 have adjustable valves (or an adjustable
>> valvetrain).
>
>What do you mean I could make it adjustable.  I just started getting a
>valve tap and I wanted to re-adjust them to spec so that I could fix the
>tap.  If they aren't adjustable, what are my other options?

Sorry, I was typing with one hand before (breakfast, ya know). You could
convert the stock non-adjustable bridge&pivot style rockers to aftermarket
adjustable roller-rockers attached to the head by a nut holding it on a
stud, with pushrod guideplates.

But, if the problem is a "tapping", then installing an adjustable valvetrain
would just be a bandaid (and an expensive one at that) that masked the
symptom, rather than fixed the problem.

You've got to ask yourself "what could be causing that tapping in there?"
Since the hydraulic lifters are supposed to take up all the extra slop in
the valvetrain, then any tapping from slop in there would be a definite sign
that things need to be replaced, not adjusted.

How many miles on the engine? Has any work been done on it lately? Is it all
the valves, or just a couple? How's your oil pressure? Are you sure it is
valve tapping? Or could it be an exhaust leak? How's your cylinder
compression?

These are the kinds of questions you've got to answer, before you can begin
to diagnose and correct the tapping noise. So, fire away! We're here to
help! Give us the details!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:31:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Need Positraction

buehner wrote:

> affective trick is the suspension air bags in Summit.  Mine are the AirLift
> brand, but I think there are others as well.  I have an open diff 3.42, and

Give me more info....

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 11:44:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

Hi all,

I was getting gas this morning and a fellow in a 72 Corvette Stingray
stop to get air for his tires.  Of course I had to go over and
complement his car (I know it is not an Olds but I have always liked
Stingrays since I was a youth).  We got into a conversation on vapor
lock (a problem I have never encountered) after his car was running
after an hour.  He was telling me that he loves his car when it is
running right.  Hmmmm.  I guess Ch*vys aren't all that hot.  My car
is very predictable and runs the same way all the time.  I guess
there must be maintenance headaches for Ch*vy owners! ;-)  This
conversation brought to my mind something I read which stated that
442s may not have been the most HP'd car of the time, however, it was
reliable.  I like reliable :-)

Anyway, have a nice day :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 05:54:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 65 442 dash question

JOHN L. BERENYI wrote:
>
> Is the 1965 442 dash made from good ol' steel or is it that lousy
> plastic like the ones on the 66-67 442's?
>
> John

John.

You could check for yourself w/one of those refrigerator magnets.  It is
made of steel w/a vinyl padded portion on top & partially around the
main dask.  Even the knobs are cast as well as the silver & chrome
areas.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 06:03:09 -0400
Subject: Re: 394

Jason Beres wrote:
>
> <Speaking of cars, I was able to look at this junque yarde as I am trying
> to help Esko get a 394 for his '64 Ninety. ...>
>
> >John
> > I have a 64 Dynamic 88 I'm parting out, it is still running and driving,
its > >body is real bad. I'll sell the eng & trans for 650.00 strap it to a
pallet > >and plster pack it and ship it freight collect to Dallas by Yellow
Freight > > truck line from Providence, R.I. > > > > > >Everett 401-435-7139 >
> > > > Wasn't one of the guys in Finland looking for a 394 too.  He may be a
good > bet if you don't sell it in Dallas.  As I remember he can get a >
trans-shipment thru Philadelphia. > > HOPE THIS HELPS! > > Jason Beres >
jberes@eagle1.net > > 83 Regency Coupe 307 > 41 Chevy Special Deluxe rod

Jason,

I don't have one to sell.  I have found one here in AL that he may
want.  If the other one works, that is fine w/me.  Esko should have his
choice & I believe that I'd rather have a list member sell his.  Esko's
address is:      esko.ilola@tele.fin

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: R4C442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 12:12:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 65 442 dash question

Hey John!
       A magnet sticks everywhere on my 65's dash. Must be really good
plastic!
                                           Ron Forsee
                                           65 442-meister

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 12:34:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

Robert Barry wrote:


>
> How many miles on the engine? Has any work been done on it lately? Is it all
> the valves, or just a couple? How's your oil pressure? Are you sure it is
> valve tapping? Or could it be an exhaust leak? How's your cylinder
compression? >

Robert,
	There are 100k on the engine.  There has been no work done on it
lately.  My oil pressure is lower than normal, but still respectable.  I
am not low on oil.  I have an exhaust leak, but it's been there for
about a year (can't find it).  Here's the story....

About 3 weeks ago I was coming home from a client site and when I pulled
away from the toll booth I noticed that my car was ticking A LOT more
than usual.  I could tell it was a valve.  I looked at my oil pressure
and it was VERY low.  I got home and checked my oil and I was 2 1/2
quarts low (don't ask me where it went & my oil light never came on).  I
put oil in praying that the damage wasn't permanent.  After I put in the
oil the valve tapping stopped.

	The idea is that over the last couple days it seems my exhaust leak has
been getting louder, but since it's been there for over a year with the
same noise I don't expect the leak to all of a sudden start getting
bigger.  So that's why I am suspecting that the valve tap has returned,
but quieter than before.  			

I was hoping that an adjustment would fix the problem.
If that's not the case, what can I do?

Also, Do oil pumps gradually go bad, or do they just quit.

						Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 12:43:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
> Hi all,

Hello there,

> I was getting gas this morning and a fellow in a 72 Corvette Stingray
> stop to get air for his tires.  Of course I had to go over and
> complement his car (I know it is not an Olds but I have always liked
> Stingrays since I was a youth).  We got into a conversation on vapor

Yes, I like stingrays too.  My dad had a (64?) split window in '66 or '67
that he's still got pictures of.

> lock (a problem I have never encountered) after his car was running
> after an hour.  He was telling me that he loves his car when it is
> running right.  Hmmmm.  I guess Ch*vys aren't all that hot.  My car
> is very predictable and runs the same way all the time.  I guess
> there must be maintenance headaches for Ch*vy owners! ;-)  This
> conversation brought to my mind something I read which stated that
> 442s may not have been the most HP'd car of the time, however, it was
> reliable.  I like reliable :-)
>

Yep, I've got to admit that I've never had any reliability problems out of
my Olds, even with the motor/tranny swap!  The only problems I've had are
electrical in nature, and are probably caused by my poor electrical skills
:-).  Although sometimes I really truly think that there is some sort of
gremlin loose in my electrical system (must've been those F*rd brand
hoseclamps I used on my cooling system :-)  ).


> Anyway, have a nice day :-)

You too,


>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442
>
>
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
'84 Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. TH375 69k miles)

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 12:59:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

At 11:34 AM 2/26/97 -0500, you wrote:
>	There are 100k on the engine.  There has been no work done on it
>lately.  My oil pressure is lower than normal, but still respectable.  I
>am not low on oil.  I have an exhaust leak, but it's been there for
[snip]
>and it was VERY low.  I got home and checked my oil and I was 2 1/2
>quarts low (don't ask me where it went & my oil light never came on).  I
>put oil in praying that the damage wasn't permanent.  After I put in the
>oil the valve tapping stopped.

I suspect that your oil system is gummed up, and that you have a sticking
lifter. If the problem was excessive valvetrain clearances, it wouldn't get
better, only worse.

I think your best bet would be to change the oil, perhaps do an oil "flush"
(one of those -run for five minutes and drain- treatments), or try a
different weight oil. What you want to do is clean up that lifter, so it
will not stick with the lower oil pressure that it is seeing.

>Also, Do oil pumps gradually go bad, or do they just quit.

Well, the pumps themselves usually don't go bad that easily. I suppose if
the oil pump driveshaft snapped, it'd stop pumping oil right away. Or if the
cover warped, or a pump tooth chipped, the oil pump output would be
diminished.

If you're seeing low oil pressure, it's not the pump, though; it's the
bearings that are worn out, and unfortunately the only thing that will cure
this problem is an engine rebuild.

I suspect that the low oil pressure is also the cause of your lifter
sticking; if the pressure was where it should be, then the resistance in the
lifter that is currently causing it to stick (and not take up the slack in
the valvetrain, and thus produce a valve "tick") would be overcome by the
higher pressure.

So, the solution is to start saving your $$$. Or drive it into the ground
until it quits entirely. In the meantime, see if new cleaner oil helps.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 1997 00:16:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

>Hi all,
>
>I was getting gas this morning and a fellow in a 72 Corvette Stingray
>stop to get air for his tires.  Of course I had to go over and
>complement his car (I know it is not an Olds but I have always liked
>Stingrays since I was a youth).  We got into a conversation on vapor
>lock (a problem I have never encountered) after his car was running
>after an hour.  He was telling me that he loves his car when it is
>running right.  Hmmmm.  I guess Ch*vys aren't all that hot.  My car
>is very predictable and runs the same way all the time.  I guess
>there must be maintenance headaches for Ch*vy owners! ;-)  This
>conversation brought to my mind something I read which stated that
>442s may not have been the most HP'd car of the time, however, it was
>reliable.  I like reliable :-)
>
>Anyway, have a nice day :-)
>
>Chris Sparks
>68 442

This reminds me of a nightmare of a problem I was having a couple of years
ago.

I had a '71 Cutlass SX convert thad had a real bad vapor lock problem.  Any
day that it got above 80 degrees out.....forget it!  It was so
frusterating!  I put in a 4-core radiator, aluminum water pump, cool
thermostat, and a HUGE clutch fan from a Toro.  I changed fuel pumps,
rebuilt the carb and even re-located the fuel line.

I got so pissed at that car that I sold it! (2500.00!) So much for it being
a Chevy problem! I have had dozens of big and small block Olds cars and
this was the only one that embarrassed me like that!  Even my Toro GT
(which are known for high underhood temps) has never vapor locked!

I wish I could have figured that one out!  Any ideas?  It still bugs me to
this day!

Just some meaningless BS!

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-spd
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/+++\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_


                                        Tony Waldner
tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us                   Northeast Metro 916
                                         3300 Century Ave. N.
                                         White Bear Lake, MN
                                                       55110

 \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_+++_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 13:15:06 -0400
Subject: About that Ciera with the Brake Problem...

In reading all the discussion about the work done on the rear
brakes of that car, and how the front ones do most of the work,
etc., I thought I'd mention one thing that I haven't seen others
address yet: The original poster was complaining about high pedal
effort, which is still there after a mechanic worked on the brakes.
I assume that if the guy did all the work on the rear brakes, he'd
have already looked at the front ones and decided they were okay.
Maybe someone should check the booster and see if it's not giving
any power assist for some reason: broken check valve in the vacuum
line or something like that...?

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 13:25:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Olds Heads

Perhaps an email to Edelbrock from each of us indicating an interest
would be helpful in speeding up their time table.  A thought, at the least.

Al Varhus




On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Gregory M Zimmerman wrote:

> I got a personal email letter from Edelbrock two weeks ago saying that
> they have (or are) designing an Aluminum head for Olds 455.  They said it
> should be on the market either at the end of this year or early '98.
> I'll wait until then to build my monster Mondello 493 big block.
>
> -greg
> -71 Olds Cutlass Convertible
>
>


  http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 13:44:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> At 11:34 AM 2/26/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >       There are 100k on the engine.  There has been no work done on it
> >lately.  My oil pressure is lower than normal, but still respectable.  I
> >am not low on oil.  I have an exhaust leak, but it's been there for
> [snip]
> >and it was VERY low.  I got home and checked my oil and I was 2 1/2
> >quarts low (don't ask me where it went & my oil light never came on).  I
> >put oil in praying that the damage wasn't permanent.  After I put in the
> >oil the valve tapping stopped.
>
> I suspect that your oil system is gummed up, and that you have a sticking
> lifter. If the problem was excessive valvetrain clearances, it wouldn't get
> better, only worse.
>
> I think your best bet would be to change the oil, perhaps do an oil "flush"
> (one of those -run for five minutes and drain- treatments), or try a
> different weight oil. What you want to do is clean up that lifter, so it
> will not stick with the lower oil pressure that it is seeing.
>
> >Also, Do oil pumps gradually go bad, or do they just quit.
>
> Well, the pumps themselves usually don't go bad that easily. I suppose if
> the oil pump driveshaft snapped, it'd stop pumping oil right away. Or if the
> cover warped, or a pump tooth chipped, the oil pump output would be
diminished. > > If you're seeing low oil pressure, it's not the pump, though;
it's the > bearings that are worn out, and unfortunately the only thing that
will cure > this problem is an engine rebuild. > > I suspect that the low oil
pressure is also the cause of your lifter > sticking; if the pressure was
where it should be, then the resistance in the > lifter that is currently
causing it to stick (and not take up the slack in > the valvetrain, and thus
produce a valve "tick") would be overcome by the > higher pressure. > > So,
the solution is to start saving your $$$. Or drive it into the ground > until
it quits entirely. In the meantime, see if new cleaner oil helps. >
_______________________________________________________ > Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu > Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918


Robert,
	I appreciate your expertise and your time.  You have given me many good
suggestions.  Thank you.

						Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 13:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

> Yes, I like stingrays too.  My dad had a (64?) split window in '66 or '67
> that he's still got pictures of.

CLayton, AFAIK it was '63 only, the first year for that body style.
My uncle had a '64 Roadster from new, which may be why I'm a bit more partial
to the 'movable head' type 'Vettes; but 'Rays are OK too...

(ducks as Thoronado, God of Oldsmobile, hurls lighting bolts at him)

- -- I bet Mike et. al. will approve of *that* name I just coined! :)

> Yep, I've got to admit that I've never had any reliability problems out of
> my Olds, even with the motor/tranny swap!  The only problems I've had are
> electrical in nature, and are probably caused by my poor electrical skills
> :-).  Although sometimes I really truly think that there is some sort of
> gremlin loose in my electrical system (must've been those F*rd brand
> hoseclamps I used on my cooling system :-)  ).

Same here reliability-wise... Big Red always starts, even with the tired
350 it currently has...

 > Anyway, have a nice day :-)
>
> You too,

You three :)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 13:46:19 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd

  It's kinda funny where this discussion has led ---  We started out on the
what causes the bottom end of a 307 Olds to blow out.

   The Oldsmobile connecting rods, pistons, wrist pins, bearings, etc. etc.
are just as strong and well designed as any other Brand X engine.  Given the
differences in stroke all connecting rods tend to fail at the same piston
speeds.
   The most commone failure points in the reciprocating assembly are the rod
bolts, bearings, rod big end going out out of round, and wrist pin failure.
 Rarely does the beam of a connecting rod the point of failure and then it is
 usually because of a manufacturing flaw or poor metallurgy.
    In my opinion they biggest cause of reciprocating assembly failure is
detonation or  preigition, in those situations the sudden and extreme
cylinder pressures "shock" the entire assembly, overriding the cushoning {
did i spell that right} effect of the oil film and exceeding the flexibility
of the rest of the componeants.
    Given these facts -- a turbocharged small block can make 1100hp because a
turbo charged engine is less prone to detonation than an 800 hp supercharged
small block, and that 800hp supercharged small block is less prone to
detonation than a 600hp high compression small block.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 13:53:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 65 442 dash question

John,
I'm afraid you got the lousy plastic.


Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: Matthew Butler <matthewbutler@fsd.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:04:50 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM stress

Howdy All!!!

If you are talking about BB Olds failing at high RPM...  It is because of oil
starvation.  No Oil, as we all know, is a VERY BAD thing.  The 455 will
pump the pan nice and dry if it exposed to extended periods of 4800+
RPM's.  Thats why a lot of people install a toro pan on their 455 for the
extra quart, but even then you can pump it dry.  More extreme messures
must be taken like oil restrictors etc. etc.

My $0.002,

Matt Butler

At 05:03 PM 2/25/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>If an engine fails at high rpms, I would think it's a combination of the
>>cylinder compression and the reciprocating mass, as well as the high
>>temperatures.  That's assuming no material flaws, and good machining
and
>>tolerances.  The stress on not only the crankshaft, but also the rods,
>>pins, bolts, etc. increases exponentially as the engine speed
increases.
>>It's been a few years since I've studied this sort of thing but I'll pull
>>out the ol' textbook and verify this info.  This is an interesting subject
>>and I'd also like to hear what everyone else thinks.
>>
>
>Yeah, I'm not too certain on the subject, but I'd suspect compression
>contributes very little to the problems.  The high RPM, high compression
or
>no compression (theoretically speaking) will still have the same
>reciiprocating assembly going at the same speed.  The compression
would
>factor in as sealing problems, I'd imagine, like blown head gaskets,
>pistons, etc.  Granted, it will put more pressure on the rods and cranks,
>but not where they generally tend to destruct.  The momentum and
inertia of
>the reciprocating masses at the upper and lower extremes of the throw
>results in the rod assy. to keep going (remember Newton?)  When the
crank
>tries changing directions, things flex a bit while the rod and cap try to
>keep going down (or up; opposite of their newly desired direction).
This, I
>hear, is when the proverbial feces becomes scattered by the air
movement
>device (PC stuff, ya know...:)  The high compression will make the
speed
>easier to reach, but the RPM at which self destruction occurs should
remain
>relatively constant.  i.e. if you were to take a 4 speed f*rd, and remove
>the spark plugs so there is no compression at all (removing the plugs
>~there~ might be optional:) and then towed the car with your Olds,
leaving
>the f*rd in first so the engine rotates, the engine would still reach
>critical RPM with ~no~ compression, and become even more
dead-in-the-water
>than it started as.  It's my guess that the RPM it dies at would be the
same
>with or without compression.  I've never seen any proving grounds to
test
>that idea, though.  Any volunteers?  You can use my neighbor's f*rd, as
long
>as you go in a straight line -- no keys, ya know... :)
>     >      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
>      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
>      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)
>
>
>

Charles,

With great political correctness, I believe that you have become part of
the
Ms-Mr-Miss-Mrs-informed about 'critical RPM' which has nothing
what-so-ever to do with anything you were referencing in your post.

I doubt that any hydrocarbon fueled reciprocating engine manufacturer in
the world market an engine that is fueled by one of these products,
namely, gasoline that has a 'critical speed.'  He could not afford the
warranty costs.

The Wiz

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 16:02:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> (ducks as Thoronado, God of Oldsmobile, hurls lighting bolts at him)
>
> -- I bet Mike et. al. will approve of *that* name I just coined! :)

Tim. Yes, I approve!!!!! Prolly the most cogent reply I have seen in days!
LOL!

Sparky

- --
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:06:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

This is not Olds related, but I just saw something that was so funny that
I had to share it with all of you!  I was driving down the road today at
lunch, and I passed a Honda CRX.  It was "come and get me copper" red and
had an about 3 foot tall spoiler on the back (ROTFLMAO) and even worse, it
had RUNNING BOARDS!!!!   I sware, I actually felt sorry for the poor car!
What kind of person does it take to do this I wonder, even worse, what are
they going to do next?  Mount the spare tire on the fender?  Honestly,
foot wide running boards!  Makes me glad I own an Oldsmobile.  Customizing
can be good, and I've got a few custom things on my car, but it can be
taken too far, and can become gaudy rather than cool!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:46:10 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd

   OK  im back again,
                                Bottom end failure on the small block Olds
307 -- high compression --  The only way to increase the torque out put and
hp output in an internal compression engine across the entire operating range
is to increase the compression ratio, regardless of engine speed, camshaft
design, intake manifold etc. etc. everything else is a balancing act of
tuning the combination for your intentions.
  The reciprocating assembly consists of the piston/rod assembly moving up
and down or sideways back and forth and a crankshaft converting linear motion
to circular motion.  Now the piston/rod assembly has to weigh a certain
amount and the intertia weight of the rod/piston increases geometrically with
any increase in the speed of the assembly. In order for the assembly to stay
in balance the crankshaft is designed with counter weights to counter the
intertia of the rod/piston assembly.
   After 1976 Oldsmobile or GM decided to cut manufacturing costs by reducing
the amount of material used in the manufacturing process of its engines --
whats one of the heaviest componants of the engine??? The crankshaft.  They
also decided to cut costs in the cylinder blocks of Olds engines by
developing the windowed main webs. It wasn't a weight savings plan -- it was
a materials savings plan -- think about it -- one ounce times a million
engines that's alotta tonnage in cast iron.
  Anyway.... The laws of physics dictate that a reciprocating assembly can
only be truely in balance at one engine speed.  So if you have a lightweight
crankshaft or a crankshaft with smaller counter weights the speed of the
reciprocating assembly is limited by the weight of the counterweights on the
crankshaft thus the engine becomes unstable at high rpm and pounding the snot
out of the main supports in the cylinder block. Post 76 Oldsmobile
crankshafts anyone???  A forged steel crankshaft weighs more than a cast or
nodular iron cranshaft, and a pre 76 crankshaft weighs more than a post 76
crankshaft.  So my choice for a high output 307 would logically be what?  A
forged steel crankshaft from a 1967 or earlier 330
Don't forget -- what i am trying to do is convert the downward force of the
piston/rod assembly to a circular or rotational force thus reducing the load
on the main web and main caps of the 307.
  Ok now that i have figured out what i want the reciprocating assembly to do
- -- what do i want the the engine to do?  Make lotsa hp and torque. Like i
said at the beginning of this dissertation -- the only way to increase hp and
torque across the entire operating range of the engine is to increase the
compression ratio. I have long forgotten math to show the effects of
horsepower, but i can describe the effects of torque. so i'll stick with
torque.
   anyway... So now we have a high hp high rpm 307 Oldsmobile engine and we
want to put all of that hp to work -- what do we do?  we hook it to a drive
line. So what happens when we apply a load {read torque} to the engine?  The
crankshaft wants to continue moving in its circular motion but it doesn't
have anywhere to go and it tries to climb out of the cylinder block thus
putting heavy strain on the main webs of the cylinder block.  A high
compression engine will load the main webs, caps, and bearings to a much
greater extent than a low compression engine of the same horsepower.  With a
high hp low torque engine you can let the driveline gearing do all of the
torque multiplication for you instead of relying on the engine for the
torque.
thus putting less load on the engine directly.
   I'm done -- Anybody wanna go drag racing???




------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:50:55 -0400
Subject: Vapor Lock (was Re: Meaningless BS)

>This reminds me of a nightmare of a problem I was having a couple of years
ago.

<stuff about vapor lock snipped>

>I wish I could have figured that one out!  Any ideas?  It still bugs me to
>this day!

I had the same problem with my 1969 Chevelle SS.  I tried pretty much the
same things you did, and then I installed the fuel lines (including the
return line, which the Chevelle did not have) from a 1968 442.  Problem
solved.  I figured it had something to do with the proximity of the exhaust
system and the fuel line passing through the frame.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:49:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

At 10:09 AM 2/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>On a 1979 350 4bbl VIN Engine Code R...Do the heads have adjustable
>valves?
>
>						Gerald Hughes
>

Gerald

        NO! There were no valve adjustments in any of the 65-present Olds
V-8's unless someone put an adjustable valvetrain in it. R VIN code is the
Olds 350 V-8.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:52:32 -0400
Subject: Re: List Suggestions

>I was wondering...
>
>Would all you folks, and the list administrator, be interested in splitting
>the hundreds of daily messages into specific groups.

No way.  I believe this has been discussed in the past...



- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:51:41 -0400
Subject: Re: FOUNDRY, REPRODUCING, CHROMEWORK...............

>All of our work is done in Mexico,

That wouldn't make me feel real confident about quality...

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 14:50:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Ralleye Pack

> Does anyone know the market value for a new 79 Cutlass Ralleye Guage
> Cluster Pack?  A guesstimate would be appreciated as well if you are not
> sure.
>
>                         Gerald Hughes

Maybe around $75-120?  Anybody else's opinion would be appreciated.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 06:51:44 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Meaningless BS

     I've seen several of those types of cars too.  Me and my SO like to
     think that those big spoilers are there for one of two reasons:

     - The owners are going for the ultra-tough "shopping cart" or "lawn
     mower" look.
     - It's a handle so you can put away your little toy car when you're
     done playing with it.

     My personal favorite was the honda with the indy-car style wheels
     offset about 6" outside the car.  He was broken down on the side of
     the road missing one wheel.  Probably a broken spindle. . .

     The new fad I've seen is "THC" window/bumper stickers.  I'll bet that
     earns you a lot of slack with the cops when pulled over for something
     minor :-)

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Meaningless BS Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/26/97 10:36 AM

     lunch, and I passed a Honda CRX.  It was "come and get me copper" red
     and had an about 3 foot tall spoiler on the back (ROTFLMAO) and even
     worse, it had RUNNING BOARDS!!!!   I sware, I actually felt sorry for
     the poor car!

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:06:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

Clayton Pierce wrote:
>

>(ROTFLMAO)

Clayton,
	Could you please give me the acronym for this one?

						Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:19:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:


 R VIN code is the Olds 350 V-8.

Jim,
	Would you happen to know what the L VIN Code means as opposed to the R?

						Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:27:48 -0400
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Ralleye Pack

At 09:56 AM 2/26/97, Gerald Hughes wrote:
>Does anyone know the market value for a new 79 Cutlass Ralleye Guage
>Cluster Pack?  A guesstimate would be appreciated as well if you are not
>sure.

No, but I'll give you a dollar for it right now. ;)

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Jeff Verkleeren <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:26:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Olds Heads

I'm game for that!


At 01:25 PM 2/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Perhaps an email to Edelbrock from each of us indicating an interest
>would be helpful in speeding up their time table.  A thought, at the least.
>
>Al Varhus
>
>
>
>
>On Tue, 25 Feb 1997, Gregory M Zimmerman wrote:
>
>> I got a personal email letter from Edelbrock two weeks ago saying that
>> they have (or are) designing an Aluminum head for Olds 455.  They said it
>> should be on the market either at the end of this year or early '98.
>> I'll wait until then to build my monster Mondello 493 big block.
>>
>> -greg
>> -71 Olds Cutlass Convertible
>>
>>
>
>
>  http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:57:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

>>(ROTFLMAO)
>
>	Could you please give me the acronym for this one?

Rolling On The Floor Laughing My A** Off.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:47:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock (was Re: Meaningless BS)

>I had the same problem with my 1969 Chevelle SS.  I tried pretty much the
>same things you did, and then I installed the fuel lines (including the
>return line, which the Chevelle did not have) from a 1968 442.

Hey Bob,

My '69 Cutlass has no fuel return line.  How hard would it be to add one?
My (newer) mechanical fuel pump has a provision for one.  When I replaced an
old leaking pump, the only one they had at the auto parts store had a return
port on it, so I just capped it off.  Where would you put the return line
into the tank?  Into one of the vents?

TIA

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:57:11 -0400
Subject: WANTED: 71-72 CUTLASS RALLY GUAGE PACK

If anyone has info on where I can get my hands on a rally guage pack, please
let me know.  It would be greatly appreciated.

Mark Heiser mpheiser@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 15:57:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Meaningless BS

Clayton Pierce wrote:
>
> This is not Olds related, but I just saw something that was so funny that
> I had to share it with all of you!  I was driving down the road today at
> lunch, and I passed a Honda CRX.  It was "come and get me copper" red and
> had an about 3 foot tall spoiler on the back (ROTFLMAO) and even worse, it
> had RUNNING BOARDS!!!!

Hey! I just saw a VW Jetta like this.  It had a tall spoiler (just a
little bit taller than the roof), running boards, had been lowered to
about an inch and a half of clearance and had a "livin' lo" graphic in
the rear window.  Of course he hadn't lowered it properly so with every
bump he bottomed out.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 16:46:25 -0400
Subject: Re:  Meaningless BS (Vapor lock)

I used to have quite a bit of vapor lock trouble with my Olds when I had
a Holley carb.  I switched back to the Quadrajet and vapor lock is no
more.  I think my problem had to do with the heat sink efect caused by
the float bowels hanging out over the manifold.  I was running the fuel
return, had plugged the heat crossover, and had 2 thick insulating
gaskets under the carb.  The only thing that did help the Holley was
racing gas.  The racing gas seemed to be less troubled by the heat.  I
switched back to the Quadrajet and have not had anymore trouble, even on
the run of the mill pump gas.  I do try to use a name brand premium at
all times.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 16:41:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable Valves

At 03:19 PM 2/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
>
> R VIN code is the Olds 350 V-8.
>
>Jim,
>	Would you happen to know what the L VIN Code means as opposed to the 
R?
>
>						Gerald Hughes


Gerald

        I'm not totally sure but if my memory serves me it's a Ch*vy.

Jim

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 16:00:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Bummer

Hi all,

I have been trying to find someone to do a recurve on my distributor
and finally found a few people.  The first said it would run between
$40 - $75 depending on whether it gets rebuilt or not.  He also asked
if the distributor had a nylon? gear in it.  Does any one know?

The second person said $25 + parts (labor incl?).  He also told me
that the recurving is not the panacea for curing the pinging in my
engine.  He said I could lower the compression (Nooooooooooo! I
resounded)  He went on say that recurving will help but I won't achieve
the full potential out of my engine.  :-(

I told him that I could stick with the octance booster, and he suggested
that I try Moroso.  Does anyone have any experience with this?

Please let me hear back from anybody.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 16:28:13 -0400
Subject: Re: 70' 442-W30

Clayton Pierce wrote:
>
> If it was me, I'd probably just get a set of Goodyears w/ raised white
> letters, a good traction/tread rating, and "z" speed rating.  Probably I'd
> put 245/60/15's on the back and 225/60/15's on the front, although I might
> be able to be talked into going to a 65 series tire.  I tell you what, you
> give me a '70 442-W-30 and we'll see what tires I put on it ;-)  I'm
> kidding of course.  I'm just jealous because I don't own one ;-).  I hope
> that I've helped, of course, you might want to gather some more opinions
> before you head to the tire store.
>
> Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> Clayton Pierce,
> zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
>
> On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, rdeeba wrote:
>
> > What are the best tires to put on the 1970 Olds 442-W30 for normal
> > street driving.  Thanks for the opportunity to ask the question.
> >
> > Rick Deeba
> >
> >


I second Clayton's suggestion.  Although I would install 225's on all
four corners to allow rotation.

John Schumacher
NTOC#254
OCA#021551
64 D88
69 442
74 Supreme

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey King <jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 17:12:11 -0400
Subject: Many Thanks

> Ok kids, here's the deal...
>
> I found a '64 Olds 442 over the weekend.  It has (1)20,000 miles on
> it according to the odometer.  It's in pretty good shape.  Probably
> #4 condition.  2 door hardtop, buckets, console, factory tach,
> factory 4 speed, dual snorkle(?) aircleaner, etc.  However, it seems
> to be based on an F-85 as opposed to the Cutlass.  It has F-85 badges
> on the front and the steering wheel, along with 442 emblems on the
> front fenders.
>
> The car looks to be very original.  Everything is worn evenly.  That
> is to say, no shiny emblems on dull fenders and such.  Seats are a
> little threadbare, but not torn up.  No aftermarket add-ons or
> amature "customizing" that I can see.  Body is straight, but right-
> front fender appears to have been repaired at some time.  No rust
> that I can see (I didn't crawl under it or anything).
>
> My question is... does it sound like an real 442 to you experts out
> there?  For some reason, the flyer that went with the car has it
> listed as a " '64 F-85 4-speed " and not a 442.  I copied the S/N,
> but forgot to bring it into work with me.  Seemed to me it had
> 3 numbers, then the letter "H", then a 6 digit number.
>
> They were asking $3750 for the car.  Opinions anyone???
>
> Jeff King ('61 Olds Super 88)


Many thanks to all those who responded about my 442 question a
couple of days ago.  I think I'll go down there this weekend and
check it out.  I'm after this car, not so much for the hot-rod
aspect, but as an investment.  Plus it will be tons easier to sell
than my '61 Super 88 (nobody wants 4 doors...even hardtops!!).
I'm going to try and work out a swap with them, hopefully an even
one...we'll see.

Happy Oldsmobiling!!

Jeff ('61 Super 88)
- --
=====================================================================
Jeffrey W. King (N5PNU)     Internet: -----> jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
Route 1, Box 290            Internet/packet:   n5pnu@dfwgate.ampr.org
Krum, TX. 76249             Packet:    N5PNU @ N5AUX.#DFW.TX.USA.NOAM
214-956-6031 (work)         214-597-1021 (pager)
817-482-3446 (home)         If none of the above works:    HEY YOU!!!
=====================================================================
              http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
=====================================================================

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 17:59:17 -0400
Subject: GM Parts

I went to the Olds dealer today on my lunch break.  Turns out that one of
my friends works at the parts counter.  He brought out all the old books
and plopped 'em down on the counter for me to look at.  I tried to get him
to let me sneak out with them, but he wouldn't go for that. :-(  I must have
drooled a gallon!  I can't believe the wealth of knowledge that's contained
in those books!  I mean, I know that the majority of those parts are
discontinued, but just the pictures... oooh, just the exploded diagrams
illustrating every single component on the car are invaluable!  I would
LOVE to have one of those books.  I looked for an order form, but no luck.
Lots of binder order forms, though.  I wonder if it's still possible to get
them from GM...

Anyway, what I was originally going to say is that I finally found the Coil
Spring Insulators I was looking for.  This is the donut-shaped rubber piece
that goes between the top of the coil spring and the coil spring mount on
the body.  If you hear a rubbing sound coming from your trunk occaisionally
when cornering or accelerating from a stop, these rotten things might be
the cause.  Mine were so rotten that they just crumbled into dust.  They are
still available from GM (and not at any of the parts stores that I checked)
for $3.51 ea.  Too bad I didn't own my Olds in 1987.  I could have picked up a
NOS O.A.I. hood for $241.00 ;)

- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #538
********************************
