oldsmobile-digest-owner @ chebucto.ns.ca 
02/11/97 01:04 AM
To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #511


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, 11 February 1997     Volume 01 : Number 511

Muff Stuff?  was...Re: yet another muff question
Re[2]: C.I.D. math
Re: Switch to Discks?
Oldsmobile's Advertising Agency
B-Post molding
Competition Cams, adjustable valvetrain for Olds
Re: A Few Q's
Re: HEI
Re: Headers, just say no!
Detroit AutoRamma
performance chips
Re: Switch to Discks?
Re: B-Post molding
Re: Thanks
Re: performance chips
Re: Headers, just say no!
Re: Detroit AutoRamma
Re: Headers, just say no!
Engine Compartment Stuff Needed
Re: 455 HP
Re: Headers, just say no!
Re: Engine Compartment Stuff Needed
Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!
Fender well restoration
Re: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!
Re: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!
Re: B-Post molding
Re: performance chips
Re: Quadrqajets
RE: New member + TCS solenoid
Re: Olds 442
Re: The band "Chicago" is a 442 killer
Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: Thanks
My Classic Car TV Show, etc.
Re: Thanks
how do you unsubscribe
Olds IRC
Re: Fender well restoration
HEI rebuild -Reply
Re: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!
Re: Fender well restoration
Re: Fender well restoration
Re: Ouch goes the Rockit  :(
Re: A Few Q's
Re: Re[2]: C.I.D. math
Re: Quadrqajets
Re: Olds 442
Re: My Classic Car TV Show, etc.
Schematics for heater for 63 Dynamic 88
Re: Ouch goes the Rockit  :(
Re[2]: Switch to Discks?
Re[2]: Dual Quads
Re[2]: Chicago video
Re[2]: Divorce
Re: Olds IRC
Re[2]: C.I.D. math
Re: HEI rebuild -Reply
old headlights
Re: rake
Re: Is it a W30
Re: Olds IRC
Re: Highway RPM
Re: 67 Cutlass L66 400cu.in. Turnike questions
Re: Olds IRC
Re[2]: 455 HP
Re: Re[2]: C.I.D. math

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:00:19 -0400
Subject: Muff Stuff?  was...Re: yet another muff question

> > i want to put a high flow muff on my 85 delta 88 v6 231 3.8L but i have
not > > got an good enough answer...some say to go with the cherrybomb
glasspacks, > > some say go with a walker...i am looking for low cost with
decent flow and > > nice sound...i want to set it up something like this... >

	Personally, I would'nt stick a glasspack behind either a 4 or a 6,
simply because it sounds like...well, a 4 or a 6 with a glasspack.  For
whatever reason, it just dosn't sound the same as a V8.  I don't know if
it's just the difference in displacment, or maybe the difference in the
pulses from not having thoes two extra cylinders, but I've never heard a
glasspack that sounded cool behind anything but an eight.  In fact, about
the only time glasspacks sound good is in a true dual exhaust setup on a
V8.  In my '63 Galaxie (352/4V) I had 31" glasspacks.  They were HUGE, and
gave the car a really nice mellow sound off idle, and during part throttle
use.  At WOT, they sounded pretty mean too.

	Instead of a glasspack, I'd go with a turbo muffler (Walker, or
whatever).  I've got a Walker Dynomax cat-back system on my daily
driver--a 2.8L V6 in a...well, lets just say it's another GM product--
with a single 2 1/2 inch pipe from the cat back into a dual outlet muffler
with a pair of 2 1/2 inch pipes that peek out from under the rear bumper
(yes, the "fake" dual exhaust found on many 80s GM cars).  It sounds great
and produced a noticable increase in power.  At idle it actually sounds
deeper and more V8 like than some stock systems on actual V8 cars.
Acceleration is another story.  Off idle, it starts to sound less like an
eight and more like a six, but still, it's probibly a lot closer to what
you're looking for than the glasspack ever will be.  The bigger-than-stock
pipes probibly come into play here to.  Anyway, I hope this helps.  If you
have any questions let me know, and whatever you decide on I hope it works
out.  Later,
					Scott
				1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:37:25 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: C.I.D. math

In a message dated 97-02-08 20:48:48 EST, you write:

>My 455 has been bored out to .060 over.  I am running a new stock crank
>and pistons (+.060) and rods.  I know this increases the cubic inch
>displacement of the motor, but to what size?
>
>

When I went .030 over, I was told it was 462cid, so double it?  Wait until
Joe Padavano replies, he will know for sure.  Ed   Escape442@aol.com

     (Blushing) Gee, thanks.

     You are exactly right.  The ex's 71 had a 0.030-over 455, which came
     out to 462.  A 0.060-over 455 is a 468.  Just use the following
     formula:

     pi x (bore/2)^2 x stroke x no. of cyl

     where:

     pi = 3.14159
     stroke for a stock 455 = 4.25 inches
     bore for a stock 455 = 4.125 inches

     And in response to Jonathan's subsequent question, there are about 61
     cubic inches in a liter (or litre, for our Canadian list members).
     Often, manufacturers will round off, so the conversion will not always
     come out exactly correctly.  Even worse, the manufacturers will
     sometimes flat out lie for marketing reasons.  Case in point is the
     new LS-1 in the 97 Corvette.  Ch*vy wanted to keep the 5.7 liter
     designation, which is normally 350 cu in, but the engine actually
     comes out to 345 cu in.  And what about the Trans Am from the
     "screaming chicken" period.  Both the Pontiac 400 and the Olds 403
     were designated 6.6 liter engines.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:32:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Switch to Discks?

>The big
>question I would ask myself is, am I really going to push the car hard
>enough to need the disc brakes or will the drums with hi-performance
>linings suffice?

Discs are definitely superior to drums; however, if you use only the best
quality parts when repairing/rebuilding drum brake systems, they should
serve you well.  I rebuilt my four wheel drum brakes less than a year ago
using only Raybestos and Wagner parts.  My Cutlass can stop almost as well
as my Eclipse now (which has four wheel discs).

I do want to convert the front to discs someday, but right now, I'm happy
with the performance of the drums.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:31:40 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile's Advertising Agency

Based upon the earlier posting here which reported that they were
Oldsmobile's advertising agency, I have done a quick search of the
Internet for references to Leo Burnett.  It seems that this company
is global, with references to their work in Europe, Asia, and the
United States.  Two items were of interest which tell of the
agency's work were quickly spotted.

The first was a report that United Airlines had pulled their $120
million annual account from the firm last October, after an
association which had lasted over 30 years.  The parting was
described as having occured on "friendly terms".  What else could we
have expected from the people who "fly the friendly skies", and the
people who coined the phrase.

The second report detailed how Leo Burnett had gone out of house for
computer animation assistance in creating new Pillsbury Doughboy
televison commercials, breaking with the old traditional stop-motion
photography in previous versions of those ads.

So on one hand we see a company who loses $120 million worth of
business per year, perhaps because it can not or will not break from
tradition, and on the other is willing to attempt new processes to
convey an old traditional idea.  Maybe it's no wonder that they don't
consider Oldsmobile's 100th year of existance important enough to
note.  They apparently don't know which direction to head.

          ---
 ------- | | | - Tom Stoner -----------------------
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ---    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
 --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:38:22 -0400
Subject: B-Post molding

Hi all,

Does anyone know where I can get B-Post molding.  These are the plastic
covers that hide the post from the inside.  They are fastened by two
screws.  Mine crumbled and I threw them away (Yes I know how stupid!).
If I wasn't stupid I could have had them fabricated.  You live you
learn....

Chris Sparks
68 442 (with naked B posts)

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:59:12 -0400
Subject: Competition Cams, adjustable valvetrain for Olds

I was browseing through Summit Racing's wish book yesterday and I
spotted a kit from Comp Cams that makes the Olds valvetrain adjustable.
It comes with screw-in studs, guideplate, roller-tip rockers, and
pushrods for about $300. Looked pretty cool, was wondering if anyone had
seen or dealt with this kit.

Stephen Hoover		
Dallas, Texas	
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:14:48 -0400
Subject: Re: A Few Q's

By the way, the 12,000 mile oil change is probably recommended for normal
driving conditions, in which case typical petroleoum oil manufacturers
recommend an oil change every 7,000 miles.  (It's probably in your car
manual too.)  The problem is, they define normal driving conditions in a
way that drive a grandma crazy, and they recommend an oil change every 3000
miles under severe driving conditions.

Another advantage of the synthetic oil is that it keeps the same viscosity
at lower temperatures.  When I was at school at Michigan Technological
University in Houghton, MI  (which is in the northernmost point in the UP)
we had a record cold day (about -30 degrees F for the high).   I had one of
the few cars in town that would even start, and I was using valvoline
synthetic 10w-30.  By the way, it was a 1988 Olds Delta 88.

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:17:30 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI

>Around here they usually ask $25 - $35. for a core, if that's >all you're
buying.  Group deals usually work out better for >you, on a price per piece
basis.
>
>The Wiz

How much does it cost to have it rebuilt?

Dave
71 olds cutlass

------------------------------

From: Frank Gonzalez <PLPAUDIO@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:15:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Headers, just say no!

PaulP34167@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-02-10 09:56:15 EST, you write:
>
> << And any of you
>  youngsters out there who may want to run headers, go ahead and go for
>  it.  Everyone should experience this at least once in life.  This was my
>  sixth vehicle with headers.
>
>  Dave (slow learner) Wyatt
>  70  4-4-2 >>
>
> I just bought a pair for my 70 350 Cutlass.  My stomach is knotting up
> already!
>
> Paul (youngster) Pate
> 70 Cutlass S
Actually on a 350 they are not that bad but on 455 I agree as I once
foolishly
put headers on a 71 455 with AC.NO FUN WHATSOEVER!
Frank
70 442
71 442 W-30convt
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:21:04 -0400
Subject: Detroit AutoRamma

Is anyone going or displaying their car at the AutoRamma this weekend?

John Richmond
Warren, MI
richmond@tir.com

------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:27:38 -0400
Subject: performance chips

are there any chips out there for v6 delta 88...if so what do they run
for...what can i expect to get from this chip...

- --------------------------
junior627@aol.com
Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
85 Delta 88
V6 231 3.8L Rwd
- --------------------------

------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:51:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Switch to Discks?

About the power/non-power disc setup. My coworker converted his '64 Ch**y
Malibu from front drums to discs. He used the Global West kit. If you are
into new parts and have the ~$700, it is a great setup! May change the
suspension geometry tho! He wanted this for handling and did the necessary
work on the rest of the suspension to match. Anyway, he stayed with a
non-power brake setup. He did not want to take 1 hp away from the rear
wheels. On the other hand, the setup is easily drive-able. Going to a power
booster setup is not necessary. You just have to decide what you want...

I would like to go to discs soon on my 98 ('65).
I am going to rebuild the drum wheel cylinders and put in a dual circuit
master cylinder with a separate proportioning valve first. That way the
current setup will be as best it can be and I can make the disc conversion
with less problems.

Who has experience with the front-ends of my great white shark??? I would
like to know what other cars share suspension and brake parts with my car.
Ideally, I would like to find some upper and lower control arms and have
them refurbished. Then I can just slip them in with less down-time (or up
on the jack-stands time...). I will be putting in new balljoints, tie-rod
ends at the same time (maybe an new center link if needed). Any other
suggestions while the front-end is apart???

Same goes for disc brake candidates... I am thinking Cutlass, 442, etc.

I cannot find these cars in "recycleable" condition. That is the main
reason to be looking for other models.


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:44:52 -0400
Subject: Re: B-Post molding

At 05:38 PM 2/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Does anyone know where I can get B-Post molding.  These are the plastic
>covers that hide the post from the inside.  They are fastened by two
>screws.  Mine crumbled and I threw them away (Yes I know how stupid!).
>If I wasn't stupid I could have had them fabricated.  You live you
>learn....
>
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 (with naked B posts)

Chris

        Hi! Heh there is a 68 442 post in one of the local junkyards. The
car is pretty complete except for the rear end and the mashed up nose. I'm
headed out there this week and I'll check to see if these are still there.

Jim Chermack>

------------------------------

From: qwik@ticipa.Works.ti.com (Jack Wendel MSGID QWIK)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:44:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Thanks

>OK, guys, I will finish this one off.  CONGRATULATIONS! You have a numbers
>matching engine.

I was quite happy when I discovered that the numbers matched.  They were
SUPPOSED to, but you never really know 'til you check!

>The casting code dictates a '68-'69 400, The stamping # means;
>3= Olds, 9=1969,  M= Lansing, The last 6 digits match your VIN's last 6
>digits.

I keep hearing/reading about these W code Oldsmobiles.  Where can I find
out info on them?

Some guy that is interested in the car THINKS that it is some kind of very
rare car.  He told a friend of mine that is is only one of 125 or so made.
I was NOT supposed to find this out (because the guy wants to buy the car),
but hey, what are friends for?!? :-)  From the info this list has given
me, it seems to me that it's just a plain old 442 Convertible.

>You are very lucky to have ended up like you did.

Ummm, you haven't seen the car ED!!!!  =:-o

Now for my next set of questions:

What is this car worth, both in it's current condition and fixed up?
The sources I have show it to be worth about $13k restored to a #2.  I
have no idea of it's value in it's current state.  I need to decide what
to do with this car pretty soon, since I have MANY more project cars
sitting around here.

But, it is my ONLY matching numbers car!

L8R,

Jack (Do I fix it  or sell it as is?!?) Wendel

------------------------------

From: "JOSEPH_W. BARKER" <BARKERJO@mailserv1.ferris.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:54:11 -0400
Subject: Re: performance chips

> Date sent:      Mon, 10 Feb 1997 18:27:38 -0400
> From:           Junior627@aol.com
> To:             Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        performance chips
> Send reply to:  Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> are there any chips out there for v6 delta 88...if so what do they run
> for...what can i expect to get from this chip...
>
>The question is, do you want to make a fast car out of your Delta or
do you just want to spend money and experiment.  When you're are
working with such a poor match of engine to chassis, you can't expect
to see much improvement in performance.  Even the V-8 powered Deltas
are a bit on the sluggish side, and they have much more torque then
the six cylinder.  If you want to make a high performance vehicle out
of your Delta, I would strongly suggest either switching to a V-8,
(at least a 307), or rebuilding the six and adding performance parts.
 Your money is more wisely spent in a v-8 motor though.

Joe Barker
84 Cutlass Calais RWD
w/307

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:04:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Headers, just say no!

"...and massage that one tube."
> Dave (slow learner) Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2
Been there, done that. Except mine were on a '69 Cutlass. It was like
trying to cram a bowling ball into a parking meter. "Massage" was a very
polite way to put it! After I'd finished massaging my headers they had
more dents in 'em than a golf ball.
			David Nye

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:03:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Detroit AutoRamma

In a message dated 97-02-10 17:26:52 EST, you write:

<< Is anyone going or displaying their car at the AutoRamma this weekend?

 John Richmond
 Warren, MI
 richmond@tir.com
  >>
I will be there John with my 72 W-30 Olds, please stop by and say hello.
 Most of buds are coming by Sat evening.  But i will let you know on a
specific time if you are interested

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:15:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Headers, just say no!

- ----------
> From: David Wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Headers, just say no!
> Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 6:14 AM
>
> Well I did it.  I finally got around to installing the new headers I
> purchased last fall.  I will now swear an oath (I've already sworn at

<Snip>

> youngsters out there who may want to run headers, go ahead and go for
> it.  Everyone should experience this at least once in life.  This was my
> sixth vehicle with headers.

I put Headers on my '67 442....

What a pain in the A**.  I had to re-route starter wiring, dent them a few
times, and the bolts were SOB's to put in.  And the collectors are so low,
they will scrape every time I pull onto a ramp....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:19:40 -0400
Subject: Engine Compartment Stuff Needed

I'm getting ready to send an order into Fusick but would like to see if
anyone might have some of this stuff first for my '71 Cutlass ragtop.
	*Radiator shroud (this is the main item I'm looking for)
	*Washer bottle	
	*Battery tray and clamp	
	*Both choke tubes (4-barrel)
	*Upper & lower control arm bumpers
	
			Thanks,
			David Nye
			'71 Cutlass Supreme Droptop

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:20:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 HP

> I just went to the Bowling's WEB site and pluged in the information to
> determine the HP for a 70 455 365 HP. I have always wanted to know if the
HP
> rateing is correct for this engine. Using the rough HP calculator here is
the

How about running it on a '70 Toro 455?

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:28:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Headers, just say no!

Frank Gonzalez wrote:
>
> PaulP34167@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 97-02-10 09:56:15 EST, you write:
> >
> > << And any of you
> >  youngsters out there who may want to run headers, go ahead and go for
> >  it.  Everyone should experience this at least once in life.  This was my
> >  sixth vehicle with headers.
> >
> >  Dave (slow learner) Wyatt
> >  70  4-4-2 >>
> >
> > I just bought a pair for my 70 350 Cutlass.  My stomach is knotting up
> > already!
> >
> > Paul (youngster) Pate
> > 70 Cutlass S
> Actually on a 350 they are not that bad but on 455 I agree as I once
> foolishly
> put headers on a 71 455 with AC.NO FUN WHATSOEVER!
> Frank
> 70 442
> 71 442 W-30convt
> 72 Cutlass S


	I'm young.I'm looking for horsepower.  I'm stupid.  I've got money/time
to burn.  After reading the header posts, I ordered a set of Doug
Thorley headers from Mondello.  Now I'm really looking forward to
installing them in my '70 442 with a AT and AC plus all the other
goodies.
Fun
Brad
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:26:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Stuff Needed

David Nye wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to send an order into Fusick but would like to see if
> anyone might have some of this stuff first for my '71 Cutlass ragtop.
>         *Radiator shroud (this is the main item I'm looking for)
>         *Washer bottle
>         *Battery tray and clamp
>         *Both choke tubes (4-barrel)
>         *Upper & lower control arm bumpers
>
>                         Thanks,
>                         David Nye
>                         '71 Cutlass Supreme Droptop

David,

Surprise yourself by talking to your Olds dealer on these things.  The
cost of what you will find is a better surprise too.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:34:52 -0400
Subject: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!

Suzanne Rousseau wrote:
>
> ----------
> > From: David Wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
> > To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Headers, just say no!
> > Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 6:14 AM
> >
> > Well I did it.  I finally got around to installing the new headers I
> > purchased last fall.  I will now swear an oath (I've already sworn at
>
> <Snip>
>
> > youngsters out there who may want to run headers, go ahead and go for
> > it.  Everyone should experience this at least once in life.  This was my
> > sixth vehicle with headers.
>
> I put Headers on my '67 442....
>
> What a pain in the A**.  I had to re-route starter wiring, dent them a few
> times, and the bolts were SOB's to put in.  And the collectors are so low,
> they will scrape every time I pull onto a ramp....
>
> Paul Rousseau
> *1967 442

I did just order headers for my '70 442 with the 455 AT and AC.  The
headers are the Doug Thoroly headers.  My motor is out and I figured
that this would be the time to install them.  Any tricks?

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:32:11 -0400
Subject: Fender well restoration

After a few hundered thousand miles and some years, the original black
fender wells in the front of my '70 442 have lost a little of their
color.  It's more like they're stained or something.  Not having enough
money to buy new ones, how would I bring back that black color.  They
are in good condition, just a little discolored.
	I thought about using fine grit sandpaper or steel wool and some
chemicals.
The motor is out of the car so access is easy.
Thanks
Brad
'70 442

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 19:47:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!

> I did just order headers for my '70 442 with the 455 AT and AC.  The
> headers are the Doug Thoroly headers.  My motor is out and I figured
> that this would be the time to install them.  Any tricks?

I don't think that is possible.  I think you have to put the engine in
first & then you can bolt up the headers.  Is your car a column shift?
That will make it more interesting. Floor shift autos are the easiest to
work around.  Be prepared to move your starter wires.  You'll have to route
them down from the firewall.  That's about all i can suggest....

Paul (Another dumb youngster) Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Harry Mulligan <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 19:58:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!

At 07:47 PM 2/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> I did just order headers for my '70 442 with the 455 AT and AC.  The
>> headers are the Doug Thoroly headers.  My motor is out and I figured
>> that this would be the time to install them.  Any tricks?
>
>I don't think that is possible.  I think you have to put the engine in
>first & then you can bolt up the headers.  Is your car a column shift?
>That will make it more interesting. Floor shift autos are the easiest to
>work around.  Be prepared to move your starter wires.  You'll have to route
>them down from the firewall.  That's about all i can suggest....
>
Before installing the motor lay the headers in the engine compartment where
they belong! then jimmy the motor in. if you try to put the motor  in with
the hearders bolted to it ....you will have a very hard time getting the
motor on the mounts. just make sure you have the starter and oil filter all
bolted to the engine also....that isn't much fun once the hearders are on!

Jeff

------------------------------

From: "Andrew A. Senko" <senko@reston.ans.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:22:07 -0400
Subject: Re: B-Post molding

> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone know where I can get B-Post molding.  These are the plastic
> covers that hide the post from the inside.  They are fastened by two
> screws.  Mine crumbled and I threw them away (Yes I know how stupid!).
> If I wasn't stupid I could have had them fabricated.  You live you
> learn....
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442 (with naked B posts)


Where have you looked?  It would be good to know where you've already
checked before we make suggestions.

- --
Drew

P.S.  If you haven't checked anywhere at all, then shame on you!

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:42:16 -0400
Subject: Re: performance chips

At 06:27 PM 2/10/97 -0400, Junior627@aol.com wrote:
>are there any chips out there for v6 delta 88...if so what do they run
>for...what can i expect to get from this chip...

Probably not, you will have to get one custom made. Hypertech can do it, but
expect to pay a bit more.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) f-list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28......patriot red, A4, G92, PEG2, GSC,  currently bone stock
      planned spring mods: !Cat, !TB, 160stat, SLP cat back, GM Cold Air Kit
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30...white/gold...........3rd place '97 Cleveland Auto Rama

------------------------------

From: CBQ9911@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:08:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Quadrqajets

 Bill,
Good article. Iook forward to part 2. I removed the Holey from my 56 Chevy
and replaced it with a Q-Jet. I'd never remove the Q-Jet from 67 442. I think
Q-Jets are easier and cheaper to work on.
                               Thanks
                                     Doug

------------------------------

From: scott or sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:08:32 -0400
Subject: RE: New member + TCS solenoid

>
> Here is the information on the TCS solenoid. I am replaceing mine also.
They
> are very hard to find. I have found one from a member of this list. I also
> have a email from a dealer that has the solenoid also. If I get the one
from
> the list member I will send you the information from the dealer.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Bobby
>
> 70 442 (Esacpe Back to the.....Past)
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
___
>
> >does anyone know where I can find a Transmission
> >Controlled Spark (TCS) solenoid?  Didn't see one in Year One, Brothers,
or Super Cars catalogs.

Thanks for responding to my request for info on the TCS solenoid.  For now
I'll just run the vacuum line straight to the distributer.  Let me know if
things pan out.

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:16:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds 442

In a message dated 97-02-10 09:16:09 EST, you write:

>ey there Vman!
>          There's a book called DATA BOOK & PRICE GUIDE 4-4-2 1964-1986
>compiled by R. Perry Zavitz. Library of Congress #ISBN 0-934780-75-7 It was
>printed in 1985 and seems to be pretty authentic for the most part.
>                                                  Ron Forsee  65 442-meister
>
>

I have every book that I know is published and that is THE worst, save your
money. According to that book, there were Cutlass convertibles in '73!
Ed    Escape442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:26:59 -0400
Subject: Re: The band "Chicago" is a 442 killer

In a message dated 97-02-10 10:56:53 EST, you write:

>Ed,
>I'd wager that the only car they ruined was a clapped out Cutlass for
>the final jump scene.  If you pause the tape during the scene where the
>woman is driving down the concrete river bed, you can see that the dash
>of the car is gutted.  I'm sure, like Demolition Man, that there was a
>nice close-up car and a sacrificial car.
>
>I've reduced several sets of Eagles to tears with aggressive driving in
>my 442.  Guess what?  It's still in existence and is stronger/ more
>durable now than it was when I got it!  If you maintain it/restify it
>well, you CAN drive it like you hate it.  Besides, I'd rather see one go
>out in a blaze of glory than go silently into the crusher.
>
>Scott Mullen
>'70 442

Scott, You may be right, I have only seen that video once, many years ago.  I
tried in vain to find the video to buy and I could not locate one.
 Everbody's entitled to drive the way they want, if you can get away with it.
 I am not as hard on my vehicles, maybe I no longer have to prove anything to
those jokers on the street. Not many left anyway. I drove my '70 for 9 years
and only found two guys who wanted to play. It felt good to trounce them, but
it's nothing like the old days.
Ed   Escape442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:43:22 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

The following is a list of Olds parts for sale.

64 Cutlass/442
grille assm     $75.00
RH headlight door    $25.00
F. bumper core    $75.00
RH tail lens    $5.00ea
LH tail lens    $5.00ea
Tail light bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering wheel center   $10.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight doors    $45.00pr

67 Cutlass/442
400/425 NOS fuel pump    $50.00
400/425 NOS water pump   $75.00
Headlight doors NOS   $125.00pr (cutlass) (SOLD)

67 Toronado
dash gauge bezel   $55.00
Rear glass    $50.00
Package tray    $25.00

68 Cutlass/442
RH headlight plastic   $100.00ea
Headlight doors    $5.00ea
Trunk chrome molding   $50.00set
Rear bumper core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear window moldings   $40.00set

68 Toronado
Headlight vacuum actuator    $50.00
Headlight switch     $10.00
Dash gauges    $10.00ea
F bumper    $75.00
R bumper    $75.00
Turn signal lens   $65.00pr
Radiator top plate   $35.00

69 Cutlass/442
Headlight doors   $50.00pr
Hood tongue   $15.00
Hood hinges   $20.00pr
LH tail light    $20.00
4 row radiator top plate   $75.00
Q-jet 7049250 (rebuilt)   $100.00
Black inner fenders    $80.00pr

70 Cutlass/442
Hood tongue   $20.00ea
Headlight doors   $55.00pr
Hood hinges  $20.00pr
442 post door panels   $40.00pr
Cutlass S grilles   $65.00pr
Rear upper control arms   $75.00pr
Drum brake knuckles and backs (complete)   $85.00
OAI hood pins (nice used)  $30.00pr
455 distributor #1111978 (2nd design)   $25.00
455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
(Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
70-72 shifter console (1 blue and 1 black)  $125.00ea
70 Cutlass "S" side moldings (set) $135.00
70 AM/FM mono w/amp $85.00

72 Cutlass/442
72 Cutlass Supreme side moldings (set) 135.00
Boxed Lower control arms  $60.00pr
Column Shift Tilt (black)   $100.00
Auto Consoles (1 black, 1 blue)   $75.00ea
Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00ea
Edelbrock Performer Intake (small block)  $100.00
Long Wheel Molding Sets   $125.00set
Tail Light Lens   $15.00ea

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 wire wheel covers   $125.00set

**** New stuff to list****
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00ea
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00set
68-69 Rear defrost (complete)  $40.00
6 Bladed Clutch fans  $25.00ea
71-72 Rear View mirror (w/light)  $15.00 (nice)
71-72 RH Sport Mirror (non-remote)  $50.00
71-72 LH Sport Mirror (remote)  $50.00 ea
New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  $20.00
70-72 Power Disc Brake Booster w/ master cyl. $75.00 as is
($135.00 rebuilt & detailed)
New window fuzzies 68-72 Holiday coupe $40.00 set (Flat style)
71-7? 10 Bolt 2.73:1  Anti-Spin rear end   $350.00
70-72 Bumper bracket sets $40.00 set
350 Exhaust manifolds  $60.00pr (nice)
Bottom windshield mouldings  $35.00ea
Rear hood moldings  $35.00ea
14x6 SSIII Wheels (newer snap on cap)  $25.00ea

P.S.  We have more parts!

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: Escape442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:45:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Thanks

In a message dated 97-02-10 17:51:37 EST, you write:

>What is this car worth, both in it's current condition and fixed up?
>The sources I have show it to be worth about $13k restored to a #2.  I
>have no idea of it's value in it's current state.  I need to decide what
>to do with this car pretty soon, since I have MANY more project cars
>sitting around here.
>
>But, it is my ONLY matching numbers car!
>
>L8R,
>
>Jack (Do I fix it  or sell it as is?!?) Wendel
>
>

Jack, Remember, a 4-4-2  convertible is NEVER beyond restoring. I think each
and every remaining one should be saved.  They are worth 2 hardtops in my
book.  I bought a $900 '70, did a cosmetic rebuild on a non matching car and
sold it for $7800!  You should be able to find someone willing to pay at
least $2000. If it a stick car, it is worth MUCH more.  Ed
  Escape442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:51:33 -0400
Subject: My Classic Car TV Show, etc.

I visited the web site (www.myclassiccar.com) to take part in their
voting.  Right now it's a 50's contest and they have matched up a '56 Olds
against a '55 Chevy. I voted for the Olds but I don't like its chances.
The previous competition was for '60s-'70s musclecars. According to their
poll, the all-time musclecar is (hold on) a '69 AMX. Now, I actually
*like* AMXs, but really...

I just can't warm to this show. I didn't like it at all last year and I
don't know if it's much better this year. I have to admit I haven't gone
far out of my way to watch it though.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:03:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Thanks

> >The casting code dictates a '68-'69 400, The stamping # means;
> >3= Olds, 9=1969,  M= Lansing, The last 6 digits match your VIN's last 6
> >digits.
>
> I keep hearing/reading about these W code Oldsmobiles.  Where can I find
> out info on them?
>
> Some guy that is interested in the car THINKS that it is some kind of very
> rare car.  He told a friend of mine that is is only one of 125 or so made.
> I was NOT supposed to find this out (because the guy wants to buy the car),
> but hey, what are friends for?!? :-)  From the info this list has given
> me, it seems to me that it's just a plain old 442 Convertible.

Don't know what he's thinking:
'69 442 convertible   4295
'69 442 club coupe    2984
'69 442 hardtop      22560

Maybe he's thinking:
'69 442 W30 convertible   121
'69 442 W30 sports coupe w/ 4 speed   132

Maybe you have a '69 442 W32:
convertible    25
hardtop       247
of course he'd _really_ have to know what he's looking for on this one.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: phantasm@mail.netshop.net
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:19:25 -0400
Subject: how do you unsubscribe

How do you unsubscribe I,m going away for 2 months and I don,t want a
large build up of mail

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:33:03 -0400
Subject: Olds IRC

Now that the list is getting quite active, is anybody interested in
starting up the IRC chats again?  Any preferences on nights? Times?

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:41:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender well restoration

Brad,
I have somewhat the same problem as you on fenderwells. I'm doing a frame off
on my 70, and I don't want to buy new wells, because they are thinner plastic
than the originals. A friend gave me a four step process to "make them look
like new". I personally don't believe it will work, but I'm going to try.
Here is the process:

1. steam clean
2. clean them with grease/wax remover
3. cover them with Dow bathroom cleaner and rinse them off with water.
4. Spray one step tire cleaner on them and let them set overnight. Hose them
off
   the next morning and they will look like new.

You can try this and let me know the results. I don't think you want to scuff
them with an abraisive because you'll remove the shiney surface. I've been
told that paint won't stick to them.

Good luck, and let me know if you try this formula.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Matthew Butler <matthewbutler@fsd.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:50:37 -0400
Subject: HEI rebuild -Reply

I just talked to a speed shop in the DC area today about recurving a HEI.
They wanted $50.  Seems a lot better than $350 for a MSD unit...

>>> Suzanne Rousseau <ewok%clarkston.com@fsd.com> 02/10/97
02:02am >>>
                  Can someone tell me how much I should pay for a rebuildable
HEI core?  There are five or six small block HEI's at my local junkyard that
I could rebuild for my 455.  Also, how much time & money would go into
rebuliding & recurving one?  My original points distributor needs work, so
I figured I'd invest in an HEI.

Thanks,

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:50:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Header tricks...was-Re: Headers, just say no!

Brad Bowles wrote:
>
> I did just order headers for my '70 442 with the 455 AT and AC.  The
> headers are the Doug Thoroly headers.  My motor is out and I figured
> that this would be the time to install them.  Any tricks?

Brad.

You'll have to get the engine back in to put the headers on.  They can't
be installed on the engine & then put into the car.  Likewise, you can't
put the headers into the body & then install the engine.  At least you
won't have the starter, oil filter, & exhaust manifolds to take off as
they are already off.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@quix.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:56:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender well restoration

- ----------
> From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Fender well restoration
> Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 3:32 PM
>
> After a few hundered thousand miles and some years, the original black
> fender wells in the front of my '70 442 have lost a little of their
> color.  It's more like they're stained or something.  Not having enough
> money to buy new ones, how would I bring back that black color.  They
> are in good condition, just a little discolored.
> 	I thought about using fine grit sandpaper or steel wool and some
> chemicals.
> The motor is out of the car so access is easy.
> Thanks
> Brad
> '70 442
>
Brad, the easiest way to clean that,would be to use a scuff pad,available
at Pep Boys, and scuff them with some strong detergent soap to get rid of
oils,and grease residue. This process will clean and at the same time
"sand" the fenderwells. A couple of coats of marhyde semigloss paint will
finish the job. By the way, the paint # is 1501 and is good stuff. Hope i
was of help.  mike aldana    maldana@quix.net


------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:52:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender well restoration

Brad Bowles wrote:
>
> After a few hundered thousand miles and some years, the original black
> fender wells in the front of my '70 442 have lost a little of their
> color.  It's more like they're stained or something.  Not having enough
> money to buy new ones, how would I bring back that black color.  They
> are in good condition, just a little discolored.
>         I thought about using fine grit sandpaper or steel wool and some
> chemicals.
> The motor is out of the car so access is easy.
> Thanks
> Brad
> '70 442


Brad,

I recommend fine steel wool & then some Armor-All or some other
protectant when you are finished.  As a last resort, semi-gloss paint
can be used if nothing else will work on the stains.

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:56:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Ouch goes the Rockit  :(

At 10:40 02/08/1997 +0000, you wrote:
>Well, it was bound to happen, and tonight it finally did.
>Uh, oh.  Bang...Ouch...  I got nailed hard.
>      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
>      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
>      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)
>
        Hey Charlie, Sorry to hear about your accident. I hope everything
turns         out all right for you. One thing I have been wondering, what
does the         name of your Buick stand for? I can't figure it out. Make
sure your             buddy sues the other driver for his pain and
suffering, too.

Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible
bradbaker@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bradbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 22:56:30 -0400
Subject: Re: A Few Q's

At 16:39 02/06/1997 +0000, you wrote:
>> Does anyone have any advice on:
>
>Big Red has the J.C. Whitney black top the P.O. put on it -- the main reason
>I only drive on sunny days, with the top down.  Originally came with a white
>top according to the body tag, and that's whats going on this year..
>
        Hey Tim, After you install the new top on Big Red, could you let me
know         how it came out? I need to put a new top on my 68 and I heard
that it         ain't very fun or easy. It would be nice to hear some war
stories from         someone who's done it before I attempt it myself!!

Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible
bradbaker@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:06:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: C.I.D. math

The 402 Che*y and the S/B 400 both have a 4.125 bore and a 3.750 stroke so
you as Joe said you can't always go by what the factory says. I think if I
rember right they both are 401.6 cid

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:04:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Quadrqajets

CBQ9911@aol.com wrote:
>
>  Bill,
> Good article. Iook forward to part 2. I removed the Holey from my 56 Chevy
> and replaced it with a Q-Jet. I'd never remove the Q-Jet from 67 442. I
think > Q-Jets are easier and cheaper to work on. >
Thanks >                                      Doug

I'm glad that I found it to relay.  Those Q-Jets are actually easy to
work on.  Read the article over a couple of times, take yours apart &
follow both the rebuild kit's instructions & these guidlines.  You'll
soon see how & why nearly everything works as it does.

You'll also find that a good used carb of your vintage ($5-$10) is a
wise investment.  The parts are worth a fortune & indespensible to
tuning your car to optimal gas mileage, power, & overall performance.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:06:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds 442

Escape442@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
>
> I have every book that I know is published and that is THE worst, save your
> money. According to that book, there were Cutlass convertibles in '73!
> Ed    Escape442@aol.com


Ed,

Of course there were Cutlass convertibles in 1973.  They just weren't
any newer than 1972.  I thought that everyone knew that.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:16:42 -0400
Subject: Re: My Classic Car TV Show, etc.

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I visited the web site (www.myclassiccar.com) to take part in their
> voting.  Right now it's a 50's contest and they have matched up a '56 Olds
> against a '55 Chevy. I voted for the Olds but I don't like its chances.
> The previous competition was for '60s-'70s musclecars. According to their
> poll, the all-time musclecar is (hold on) a '69 AMX. Now, I actually
> *like* AMXs, but really...
>
> I just can't warm to this show. I didn't like it at all last year and I
> don't know if it's much better this year. I have to admit I haven't gone
> far out of my way to watch it though.
>
> Greg Beaulieu

Greg,

I voted for the Olds.  That is a good looker they're using as an
example.  I love that dark red body w/the black/charcoal deck lid &
convertible top.

The 1969 AMX is a wonderful 1960's car.  I have one that the Army bought
new for me still in my garage.  There are other good 1960s cars besides
the AMX & so I only voted for the AMX 783 times.  I'd have voted more,
but I didn't want to seem partial.

The show is pretty good.  I like it, but have missed half of the them &
haven't worried too much about it.  i'm hoping that it gets better &
goes to an hour.

------------------------------

From: Teresa Stump <tstump@pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:53:36 -0400
Subject: Schematics for heater for 63 Dynamic 88

Does anyone have these, or know where we can get these?
Thanks,
Jim Stump
tstump@pacbell.net

------------------------------

From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 23:54:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Ouch goes the Rockit  :(

Brad wrote:

>     Hey Charlie, Sorry to hear about your accident. I hope everything
>turns out all right for you. One thing I have been wondering, what
>does the name of your Buick stand for? I can't figure it out. Make
>sure your buddy sues the other driver for his pain and
>suffering, too.
>
>Brad  '68 Cutlass S Convertible
>bradbaker@worldnet.att.net

Brad,
          I think "BT UR 4D" means "Beat Your F*rd".

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:34:24 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Switch to Discks?

>     In the last option, obviously you must use a double
>     flare tool, which can be rented.

Or you could just buy one...I don't know how well they work, however, as I
haven't bought one yet.

     Actually, I did buy mine.  It takes some practice, but with care they
     work fine.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:35:07 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Dual Quads


On Sat, 8 Feb 1997 JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com wrote:
>           As to the dual quad setup, I ran a long-out-of-production
>           Edelbrock dual quad setup on the 71 Cutlass I used to have
>           (the one the ex got).  On a mild 455 and using two Carter
              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

That was one lucky ex!!!  :-)
Didja' give that'n to her or did she have a real good lawyer?

     That was the price I paid to keep the other four cars, the basement
     full of parts, and all my tools.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:35:39 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Chicago video

Joe, I tried very hard to get a copy of that Chicago video.  I could not find
it anywhere!  I think Hot Rod did an article on the whole affair, but I
missed that too. I think it was a '69, not a '68.   Ed   Escape442@aol.com

     No, I'm sure it was a 68.  I haven't seen the video in years, but, as
     you did, I was appalled at the thought of them trashing a 442.  I them
     paid considerable attention to the video the next few times I saw it,
     and you can clearly see that the stunt car was a hardtop (presumably
     not a 442) with the top cut off.

     When I lived in LA, I had some custom work done on my car by Customs
     by Eddie Paul in El Segundo.  Their primary business was building cars
     for movies/TV/videos.  They would regularly build one or two nice cars
     for the closeups and several stunt cars which were nowhere near as
     nice.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:36:54 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Divorce

And, better yet, there are very good women out there who love Oldsmobiles!

8)
peg

     Doesn't the latter pretty much guarantee the former? ;)

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:16:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds IRC

At 10:33 PM 2/10/97 -0400, Dan Williams wrote:
>Now that the list is getting quite active, is anybody interested in
>starting up the IRC chats again?  Any preferences on nights? Times?

I would prefer setting up a regular place to meet every night. The f-body
list uses zen.ucdavis.edu and has chat every night of the week ranging from
2 to 35 people a night. We just need a central location where we all know
where to go and it would probably work out better. Once this place is
established lets keep using it and not bounce around, this is how we lose
interest in IRC...IMO:)
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio (z28cfi@gwis.com) f-list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28......patriot red, A4, G92, PEG2, GSC,  currently bone stock
      planned spring mods: !Cat, !TB, 160stat, SLP cat back, GM Cold Air Kit
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30...white/gold...........3rd place '97 Cleveland Auto Rama

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:38:04 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: C.I.D. math

i have question for all the CID Math people!!

what happens to the displacement of a motor if you decide
to put dome pistons in????

Does it change your cubic inches?

what about dish pistons?

Do you gain some cubes?

     Nope.  The displacement is simply the volume displaced as the piston
moves
     in its cylinder.  Since the dome (or dish) is the same at the top and the

     bottom of the stroke, it doesn't effect displacement at all.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

Just curious
Jeff


------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 02:07:49 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI rebuild -Reply

>I just talked to a speed shop in the DC area today about recurving a HEI.
>They wanted $50.  Seems a lot better than $350 for a MSD unit...
>
>>>> Suzanne Rousseau <ewok%clarkston.com@fsd.com> 02/10/97
>02:02am >>>
>                  Can someone tell me how much I should pay for a rebuildable
>HEI core?  There are five or six small block HEI's at my local junkyard that
>I could rebuild for my 455.  Also, how much time & money would go into
>rebuliding & recurving one?  My original points distributor needs work, so
>I figured I'd invest in an HEI.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Paul Rousseau
>*1967 442

An MSD is not quite the same fish... It does provide some very good ideas
like multiple spark, rev. limiting, etc.

I would agree that it IS getting into the realm of diminishing returns...

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:40:50 -0400
Subject: old headlights

I had a question about the original headlights that came in the `60s GM
cars. (T-3s?)  Did someone mention awhile back that there was some company
that would put a new fillament in them?  I seem to remember someone saying
don't throw any away because they are salvageable.

I'm asking because I was at a junkyard friday with a buddy to pull some
parts of an old cutlass and generally nose around.  He checked the
headlights on every old wreck there looking for originals to put in his
skylark. He managed to find four.  He got the headlights, two wiper arms in
very nice condition, and the cowl screen off of the cutlass, all for $10.
Pretty good price considering some guy at carlisle was trying to sell the
lights for $6 each.

Just wondering if he should keep them even if they don't work.

Thanks for any info.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:54:25 -0400
Subject: Re: rake

Brad Bowles wrote:
>
> I have access to a set of 15" SSII's that are in good condition.  I was
> wondering if I ran the 15" in the back with a tall (but wide) tire and
> the 14" in the front with a low profile tire, would the rake of the car
> look good on an Olds. Also, would this give me a higher or lower gear
> ratio?

On my '70 I have 14 X 6s in the front and 14 X 7s in the rear. Also the
rear tires have a taller side wall which gives the car a slight rake. I
would guess about an inch. More psychological than actual but it does
look good. Your gear ratio will "act" higher. Meaning, if you turn 3,000
rpms at 60 mph with your 14s, you might reduce you rpms slighty by using
the bigger wheels. Remember though, you speed o meter may be off as much
as 10 mph and the cops do not by the excuse.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:00:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Is it a W30

Escape442@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-02-08 22:09:44 EST, you write:
>
> >Does your car have an automatic transmission?

I appologise if this has already be mentioned but if the car is a four
speed it would have manual disc brakes. Also, at least on coupes there
is less than liberal use of body insulation.

Danny

------------------------------

From: larry polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 04:47:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds IRC

Dan Williams wrote:
>
> Now that the list is getting quite active, is anybody interested in
> starting up the IRC chats again?  Any preferences on nights? Times?
>
> -Dan
THAT SOUNDS GOOD TO ME DAN...anytime any night...larry

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:45:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Highway RPM

- ----------
> From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Highway RPM
> Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 2:55 PM
>
. We used to run Jet boats with 455's in them at higher RPM than that but
when they were run over 4000 for a long time it wasnt long before they spun
a rod bearing.
> heard that anything above 3200 RPM for a sustained amount of time was
> the limit. Any thoughts on that?
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"
>

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 01:09:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass L66 400cu.in. Turnike questions

> My questions are as follows:
>         Are this an unusual option ? (L66 Turnpike Cruising Package)
>         How many were equipped with L66 ? (in 1967)
>         What was the price for the 442 package in 1967 ?
>         Where can I get good parts for my restauration of this car ? (seat
> covers, rubber, brakeparts etc.
>         Are there anyone else having an similar car ? (to shear experience
> with)
>
> Look forward to hear from you !!!!
> >From the land of the Vikings     terjekl@online.no
>       (I`m planning to take trip to Pomona swap meet to buy parts on 27th
April)

The option price for the 442 in 1967 was $184.31. A good parts source is
Year one.

Danny

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 02:01:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds IRC

- ----------
> From: larry polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds IRC
> Date: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 2:47 AM
>
> Dan Williams wrote:
> >
> > Now that the list is getting quite active, is anybody interested in
> > starting up the IRC chats again?  Any preferences on nights? Times?
> >
> > -Dan
> THAT SOUNDS GOOD TO ME DAN...anytime any night...larry
> Just let me know what time server and room  Walter

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:26:10 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: 455 HP

At 10:14 AM 2/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I just went to the Bowling's WEB site

<snip>
>
>Computation Results:
>
>  Engine Displacement (CID) is 455
>  Mean Compression ratio is 10.5
>  Engine Revolutions Per Minute is 5000
>
>Computation Results:
>
>  Computed Engine HP is 435


     I remember reading in a very early issue of Muscle Car Review (I think
     they were still Car Review at the time, or whatever they started out
     as) that most muscle car engines were grossly underrated by the
     manufacturers.  The article indicated that the 70 W-30 motor, factory
     rated at 370 hp gross, would really put out something closer to 440 hp
     on the dyno.  Now I certainly _want_ to believe this, and your 435 hp
     number seems to be in the same ballpark (albeit for the factory 365 hp
     engine, not the W-30).  For the grassy knowll fanatics among us, also
     keep in mind that GM still had a 10 lb/hp limit on all cars except the
     Corvette.  The 70 442 had a shipping weight of about 3700 lbs.
     Hmmm...370 hp?  Coincidence?  I think not!

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30




------------------------------

From: HippieJ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 02:52:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: C.I.D. math

In a message dated 97-02-10 23:27:02 EST, you write:

<< what happens to the displacement of a motor if you decide
 to put dome pistons in????

 Does it change your cubic inches?

 what about dish pistons?

 Do you gain some cubes?

      Nope.  The displacement is simply the volume displaced as the piston
moves
      in its cylinder.  Since the dome (or dish) is the same at the top and
the
      bottom of the stroke, it doesn't effect displacement at all.

      Joe Padavano
      jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

      66 442
      68 W-30
      69 H/O
      70 W-30

 Just curious
 Jeff

>> The only thing that would be affected would be the compression ratio. If I
remember this right, domed pistons would raise your C.R., Flat tops would
either lower it or remain the same. Hope this helps.
John
aka Hippie John
79 Olds Cutlass Supreme  260 V-8
84 Olds Cutlass Supreme   307 V-8

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #511
********************************
