To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #596


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 7 April 1997        Volume 01 : Number 596

(no subject)
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: Compression Question
Re: heads for sale (update)
Re: Compression Question
Re: Third party help
Brothers Automotive
Charging Problem.  Bat won't hold charge
61 third party
69 Hurst Firefrost Paint
Re: Third party help
Re: Brothers Automotive
Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
W-30 Front Fender Emblem
Re: Where does it go? (long)
Body Tag numbers on '67 Cutlass
Re: W-30 Front Fender Emblem
455 heads to swap
Re:  Northern Lights Chapter Web Site
Re: W-30 Front Fender Emblem
Re: Third party help
Shifter Cable
Re: Third party help
Re: Shifter Cable
car info
Re: disc brake swap
Re: supplier reputations
Re: supplier reputations
new olds owner needs advice
1969 Vista Cruiser Glass?
Re: supplier reputations
Re: new olds owner needs advice
1948 & 1949 Tech Bulletins For Sale (4/7)
Thanks for suspension info!
Dash chrome
Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint
Need help with cruise control
Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint
Exhaust
Re: Dash chrome
Re: Dash chrome
69 H/O mirrors
A/C conversions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steven Karlecke <SDKAR@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 03:26:59 -0300
Subject: (no subject)

I have a 70 Cutlass with a 350.  I just switched my distributor from
points to HEI.  The car runs great now, however, my headlights and
interior lights now flicker.  Can this be caused by the HEI draining the
alternator too much.  If so, what kind of alternator do I need 0r should
it be switched to an internal regulator.  Also, how is this done?

Thanks,


Steve
SDKAR@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 23:42:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

In a message dated 97-04-04 18:37:29 EST, you write:

<< 71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed one) mint  $50.00 >>
I want this Jim, save it for me, i will call you tomorrow about it.

Thanks in advance  Mark Prince , Heard a rumor you got your W-30 forsale.
 tell me about it

W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 23:53:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression Question

In a message dated 97-04-05 11:45:46 EST, you write:

<< this will give you a good approximation of where your compression ratio
 stands. i have collectied this data testing various engines (stock and
 modified over the years ) i have some data for 12 & 13 compression engines
 related to psi if anyone is interesed.

 Jeff
  >>
what if the rings are worn Jeff?

WMACHINES

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:11:41 -0400
Subject: Re: heads for sale (update)

OK I went and had a good look at the heads I listed. ª 383821 BB heads,
casting letter "A". Olds FAQs state that they are 1965 400-425 cid , 80 cc
chambers, unique 3/8" stud & nut rocker mounting, using a three piece
rocker pivot assembly.( they look like chevy heads that have screw-in
studs.) they have a single machined flat surface for each pair of stud
holes. There is no rockers or pivots, they have mild surface rust from
moisture(easy clean up) The valves and springs etc. are installed, have to
be inspected, cleaned and springs tested. No cracks.
In olds FAQs I noticed that there is no casting ª for 1964 330cid. My
original heads are ª385101 if any one knows how to update the FAQs. Plus my
rockers are a 5 piece system with 2 rockers, 2 pivots, and 1 steel stamped
cross piece. If any one knows where I can get a few of these stamped cross
pieces I would be tickled. I got 3 that are cracked.
I would rather trade!
Scott
64 cutlass F-85 conv. 4spd.
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:09:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression Question

At 11:53 PM 4/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-04-05 11:45:46 EST, you write:
>
><< this will give you a good approximation of where your compression ratio
> stands. i have collectied this data testing various engines (stock and
> modified over the years ) i have some data for 12 & 13 compression engines
> related to psi if anyone is interesed.
>
> Jeff
>  >>
>what if the rings are worn Jeff?

if the rings are gone your delta across the 8 cylinders with be greater
than 10 percent, my assumptions are made on the fact that the
delta....across all 8 cylinders was less than 5 percent. hence one would
know if he had bad rings by reading the compression test properly.  to
determine if a cylinder has bad rings squirt a few drops of oil in the
cylinder before taking the compression test if your reading after putting
oil in is more than 10 percent higher than without any oil your rings are
probably shot!!

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey King <jking@iglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:41:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Third party help

>I need help.
>My uncle called me tonight and wants me to look up price info and >production
info on an Oldsmoblie That I can't seem to find anything >about. >This is the
info he gave me on the phone: >1961 0ldsmobile Cutlass >V-8 engine and
another number that came along... 215(which I don't know >what it means.)
PLEASE tell me anything  applicable to this car and I >will be Happy! >THANKS!

Bill and Lisa... many thanks for your input and response.  I know
some about the big Olds for those years, but little about the
"Baby Olds".  I didn't even think the Cutlass name applied in '61.
Maybe he'll join the list in case his uncle wants any more info.

Happy Oldsmobiling,

Jeff King ('61 Super 88)
- --
=======================================================================
Jeffrey W. King (N5PNU)      Internet@work:    jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
Route 1, Box 290             Internet@home:           jking@iglobal.net
Krum, TX. 76249              Packet:     N5PNU @ N5AUX.ªDFW.TX.USA.NOAM
214-956-6031 (work)          214-597-1021 (pager)
817-482-3446 (home)          If none of the above works, shout HEY YOU!
=======================================================================
              http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
=======================================================================

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:41:41 -0400
Subject: Brothers Automotive

This is really being a hot topic!

Anyhoo, Let me tell you first hand about Brothers Automotive.  I never
ordered from them before.  I heard they have the best repro exhaust tips
around, so I ordered some parts from them around the 20th of March.
Guess who's still waiting for any of the parts?  I called them last
week, and they said there was a problem with the spoiler, he didn't know
why it wasn't shipped, and that it should be to me by the 3rd of April
(two days ago.)

I have dealt only with Fusick, and Year One in the past, and I've always
had excellent luck in fast service.  A couple of bucks more now and
then, but why leave your car on blocks for 3 weeks waiting for a
specialty part to save 2 bucks?  I'm fortunate to live one day's
delivery away from Year One, but I hear they deliver fast anyway.
Service with the sale is equally important.

My profession lies with the service industry.  The client is paying, and
if you want return business, you attempt to make them happy.  You may
not everytime, but without trying, you'll never know.  Brothers
Automotive, when I FINALLY get my parts, I will erase you from my memory
banks.

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 01:20:52 -0400
Subject: Charging Problem.  Bat won't hold charge

I have a major problem with a charging system in my 81 Delta 88 307.  The
battey won't hold charge.  I replaced the bat (had warranty) with a new one
(they told me the old one was bad), but the problem is still there.  Now, I
had the alternator tested today and they said it was fine.  So, I think the
bad cell in the bat caused overcharging, which triped the fusable link
between the alternator and starter.  The book also says if the accesory
lights won't come on and/or the car won't start, it is the fusable link.
The accesroy lights for the CHARGE and BATTERY are NOT working. However, I
don't know if this is the problem or not.  If anyone has any suggestions as
to what it may be or how to test or whatever, it would be most helpfull.
Thanks.

P.S. If it is the fusable link, how difficult is it to repair.

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 01:45:20 -0400
Subject: 61 third party

215cid. , Aluminum block construction, 155 hp.,210ft. lbs. torque.,8.75 to
1 comp ratio, bore 3.5, stroke 2.8
dual down draft carbs,
215cid. Rockette 185,Aluminum block, 185 hp.,230 ft. lbs. torque., 10.25 to
1 comp ratio, bore 3.5, stroke 2.8,4 barrel carb ,
both V8s have cast crank, silent timing chains, alloy alum. tin plated
pistons, drop forged con rods, hyd. lifters, and the air cleaner completely
surrounds the carb and seals to the intake manifold.

have more if you need it!
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 01:35:25 -0400
Subject: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint

Another Hurst Olds question.

Any ideas on where to find the Firefrost Gold paint used for the stripes
on the 69 H/O?  Mine are faded, but any old gold won't do.  I heard R&M
Paints has a formula for it, but how do I find this out.  ANY IDEAS????
Help!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 19:42:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Third party help

Jeffrey King wrote:
>
> >I need help.
> >My uncle called me tonight and wants me to look up price info and
>production info on an Oldsmoblie That I can't seem to find anything >about. >
>This is the info he gave me on the phone: > >1961 0ldsmobile Cutlass > >V-8
engine and another number that came along... 215(which I don't know >what it
means.) PLEASE tell me anything  applicable to this car and I >will be Happy! >
>THANKS! > > Bill and Lisa... many thanks for your input and response.  I
know > some about the big Olds for those years, but little about the > "Baby
Olds".  I didn't even think the Cutlass name applied in '61. > Maybe he'll
join the list in case his uncle wants any more info. > > Happy Oldsmobiling, >
 > Jeff King ('61 Super 88)

Jeff,

That is one problem that I have.  I am not certain when the Cutlass came
into being, but I thought it was 1962.  It is possibly very late 1961.
Notice that the information that I supplied had only an F-85 coupe & not
a bucket seated Cutlass version.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

BTW. There were a couple of people interesrted in an early V8 2 door
88.  I spoke to a man in Cullman, Alabama who has both a 1950 88 2 door
for $700 & a 1953 88 2 door w/no drive train that I didn't get a price
on.  His phone ª is 205/734-8791.  His name is Rhett Stafford.

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 04:32:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Brothers Automotive

> I have dealt only with Fusick, and Year One in the past, and I've always
> had excellent luck in fast service.  A couple of bucks more now and
> then, but why leave your car on blocks for 3 weeks waiting for a
> specialty part to save 2 bucks?  I'm fortunate to live one day's
> delivery away from Year One, but I hear they deliver fast anyway.
> Service with the sale is equally important.

Up here in Washington State, and Year One in Georgia, it only took them 3
days to get me a set of patch panels.  Shipping was not outrageous, either.
 As I'm only 17 and just getting into car projects I haven't had a chance
yet to deal with the other businesses.  But so far, I am very pleased with
Year One.

There also is an Olds parts supplier up here in Oregon called Supercars
Unlimited.  I have dealt with them a little, but they are more expensive
than Year One.  They deal only in Olds, and have their own bracket car.
It's a '67 442 with a 462 (i think, 468 maybe?) that supposedly runs 11.3's
in the quarter on race gas, with all W-30 internals.  I don't know how well
their return policy is, though, or how good their service department is, as
I haven't dealt with them enough.

my 2 cents....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 10:47:25 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint

>Another Hurst Olds question.
>
>Any ideas on where to find the Firefrost Gold paint used for the stripes
>on the 69 H/O?  Mine are faded, but any old gold won't do.  I heard R&M
>Paints has a formula for it, but how do I find this out.  ANY IDEAS????
>Help!
>

A Little Different, Ltd. in West Palm Beach, FL sells either lacquer or
enamel Firefrost Gold for $50/quart. You can reach them at (561) 640-4135.

As this is my all-time favorite car (even though I don't own one....YET!), I
take special interest in the well-being of these babies....let me know if
you need any more info from this catalog.  Good luck!


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 11:11:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

At 11:42 PM 4/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-04-04 18:37:29 EST, you write:
>
><< 71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed one) mint  $50.00 >>
>I want this Jim, save it for me, i will call you tomorrow about it.
>
>Thanks in advance  Mark Prince , Heard a rumor you got your W-30 forsale.
> tell me about it
>
>W MACHINES

Mark

        OK your on for the Fan Shroud. I don't know who you talked to but I
have mentioned to only one individual on the phone that I might sell that
later this year. Just to let you know (I thought I told you this before) I
have a buddy that's been hounding me for that car for over a year. I'm still
not sure that I want to part with it.

Jim

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 11:40:12 -0300
Subject: W-30 Front Fender Emblem

Hi Everyone,
                  The weather has finally broke in Western New York and I am
back on my on my winter project which I didn't work on much this winter so
it's becoming a spring summer project. I am doing a frame off restoration on
a 70 442 that I am adding the W-30 package to and am would like to know if
someone could measure from the bottom of the 442 on the fender to the top of
the W-30 emblem on the fender and if the W-30 is centered under the 442
numerals. I would really appreciate if someone with one of these cars could
help me out. I have 2 N.O.S. front fenders and don't want to make a mistake!.
I can't beleive these fenders have been in the boxes for at least 4 years and
don't have a dent in them.







                                                                       Thanks
in advance























                                                                        Steve

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 11:15:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Where does it go? (long)

The oil goes up top.  Here is how to get it back down to the pan faster.
  I posted this last year in response to some person's complaint about
leaking valve covers.  This modification solves that and more
importantly helps oil return to the oil pump.  Here goes:

I did this project when I had my mill (just torn down and still dirty)
on the stand, so that is the only way I'm going to recommend doing it.
Full credit for the idea of an external oil return system goes to Joe
Mondello, who told me he does this to race and marine (i.e. heavily
flogged) engines.  By the way, the purpose of this whole thing is better
oil return.  The leak free valve covers are a nice bonus.

 First thing to do is get your die grinder out and enlarge the oil
return hole (downward) that is located at the front of the lifter
valley.  Blend the lower side of the hole downward so that any oil
coming down from the front oil return holes does not pool in the valley,
but instead will drain immediately down through that round hole.

Next, use your die grinder to smooth out the entrance to the oil return
holes located at either end of the cylinder heads.  This is especially
important for the rear (towards the firewall) holes, since the natural
tilt of the installed engine pools the oil to the back of the head.
Typically, these holes were simply drilled into the head perpendicular
the head surface, so there is alot of improvement that can be made to
the entrance of the hole.  The end result should look like a funnel.  BE
VERY CAREFUL ABOUT GRINDING TOO MUCH!!!  You want to make a funnel, not
a canyon.  Just use a fairly fine burr in your grinder so that a nice
satin finish results.

Closely examine your oil return holes and you'll see that the large
gallery drilled in from the valve spring area is intersected by a small
gallery that actually returns the oil to the valley.  For the motor head
with a good collection of burrs, a long shaft burr with a small (1/4")
head can be used to do some limited smoothing out of the intersection of
the galleries.  By looking down the large gallery, you can see that the
oil must climb uphill to reach the entrance to the small gallery.  Since
oil can't climb, it pools in the valve spring area until it reaches a
high enough level to spill down the small gallery.  With my engine on
the stand and the valve covers/intake manifold off, I poured oil over
the valve springs to simulate the oil return process in a running
engine.  I had oil all over the floor and none coming out the return
hole into the valley.  That explains why my valve covers would
frequently leak.  They were literally holding about 3 ounces of oil each
due to the poor oil return design of the Olds cylinder head.  Six ounces
doesn't sound like much, but I want every ounce in the oil pan, not in
the valve cover area.

Make sure you have each head on the correct side of the engine (I think
they're interchangeable too, but I've always kept them on the same
sides; don't ask me why...)  You will be installing 90 degree elbows on
the back of each head.  I did this four years ago, and as I recall, I
used 1/4 NPT fittings.  Once you read this, you can decide on the size
of the plumbing for yourself.  I drilled a hole into the back of the
cylinder head to intersect the large gallery that comes down from the
valve spring area.  Use a depth gauge or similar tool to determine the
correct spot to drill.  There is a bulge in the casting that corresponds
to the gallery, so this is pretty easy to do.  Ideally, the bottom
portion your drilled hole will intersect the large gallery at its
bottom.  In this way, you will get maximum drainage without drilling
into unknown territory.  Tap the hole for the appropriate thread size.
Repeat this operation on the other head.

Next, you'll have to decide where to drill the back of the block to
install a tee fitting.  Joe Mondello recommended using the machined
portion on the vertical part of the block(right below the area where the
rear intake mani seal would go) near the distributor hole.  The
important thing here is to place the hole lower than the holes you
drilled in the heads, so that gravity can do its thing.  You won't have
a whole lot of difference in height between the block holes and the head
holes, since the block hole will have to be drilled high enough to allow
you to screw in the tee fitting (that's an important thing to check
BEFORE you drill!!!).  As I recall, my block hole is about 3/4" lower
than the head holes.  Before you drill, make sure the distributor
clearance is accounted for.

Now, you simply connect the heads and the block using your choice of
braided steel line or fuel line.  Joe uses braided aircraft hose.  I
used metal fuel line  because I had just spent most of my available
pennies on a RAM clutch and pressure plate.  I should not have used
metal line because 1) the bending and precise lengths required really
taxed my patience and 2) when I was smugly enjoying the rather nice
finished result, it dawned on me that I could no longer remove my
distributor!  Once the engine is reinstalled, space is very tight, and
there is no way you're going to get in there and disconnect  metal
lines.  I could rotate the distributor for timing changes, but removal
was not possible.  Off came the metal pipe and on went 1/2 " heater hose
with double clamps.  Make sure you keep the set up flowing downhill from
heads to block, but tight enough to allow easy engine installation.
Since the oil return is not under pressure, braided line is total
overkill.  But guess what I'll be switching to next time the motor is
out for PM?  Yep, Mr. Mondello's advice to me has never been wrong.
I'll be installing braided line.

This has been a long posting, but it's worth it.  Once you have the
engine on the stand, this will be much easier to conceptualize.  When I
repeated my oil pouring experiment, no oil went through the stock rear
return holes in the head.  Every bit went through my newly installed
return system.  Complimented by some contouring with the die grinder to
the rear of the valley beneath my newly drilled hole, the oil now
returns down the back of the valley, directly above the sump.  The
important thing about this project is to carefully visualize and do lots
of "mock-ups" before you drill anything.  Also, clean everything
thoroughly when you are done (meaning garden hose clean).  Now my valve
covers never leak, so I've been able to switch to the extra-thick Mr.
Gasket cork gaskets, which gives me clearance for Mondello's SAR-455
adjustable roller tip rockers under stock valve covers.  One more thing,
this set up is virtually invisible when installed, so even stock purists
can take advantage of a race proven oil return system.  I've had my hood
opened up for some pretty sharp Olds fans, and nobody has ever spotted
it.    However, it is difficult to service any leaks, so do it right the
first time or get your hoist ready.....

Next time I have the engine out, I may reoute these lines down the side
of the block and then directly into the oil pan.  Should be fairly easy
and more accessible in case of leaks.

Good Luck!
Scott Mullen
'70 442  with the no-leak valve covers
















------------------------------

From: Jay Britt <Jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 12:12:30 -0300
Subject: Body Tag numbers on '67 Cutlass

Here's a question for the group:
The body tag on my '67 Cutlass Supreme has two "extra" rows of numbers
after the TR ª.
The numbers are:

E2EXGR
5Y

The car is a Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe. These numbers are not listed
in the two reference books I have for decoding VIN's and body tags. Can
someone tell me how to decifer these numbers?

Thanks,
Jay Britt

- --
__________________________________________________________
Jay Britt                        3600 Communications
Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services
(757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
(757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
__________________________________________________________
This message was sent from a wireless data device using
3600 Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 12:53:35 -0300
Subject: Re: W-30 Front Fender Emblem

SRB442@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>                   The weather has finally broke in Western New York and I am
> back on my on my winter project which I didn't work on much this winter so
> it's becoming a spring summer project. I am doing a frame off restoration on
> a 70 442 that I am adding the W-30 package to and am would like to know if
> someone could measure from the bottom of the 442 on the fender to the top of
> the W-30 emblem on the fender and if the W-30 is centered under the 442
> numerals. I would really appreciate if someone with one of these cars could
> help me out. I have 2 N.O.S. front fenders and don't want to make a
mistake!. > I can't beleive these fenders have been in the boxes for at least
4 years and > don't have a dent in them. > >
Thanks > in advance > >
Steve


Steve,
I used to have a 71 W-30, and as far as I could tell, the original
stripes were on it.  Now Stencils and Stripes makes a W-30 Stripe
Template, and there are blueprints for the stripes available.  I don't
remember much of the details of the stripe widths, but I do remember
this much, the W-30 emblem was centered (front to back) under the 442
emblems.  The top of the W-30 stripe was approx. .75 inches (3/4") under
the bottom of the 442 badging.  The emblem was also centered top to
bottom inside the fat stripe.  The only thing is, I don't remember the
distance between the emblems themselves.  Sorry bout that, but I don't
have the car anymore.

I hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Chuck Rowe <badgeman@tcac.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 13:13:39 -0300
Subject: 455 heads to swap

What I have: a pair of 455 heads from a '72 Ninety-eight.
What I want: a pair of 350 heads for a block from a '73 Cutlass
Terms: Even swap
How to get 'em: Email me to ensure the heads are still available. Send the
350 heads properly crated along with a statement that the heads were
Magnafluxed OK. I will return the 455 heads in the same crate within two
working days along with a similiar statement. You agree to pay shipping
charge for both sets of heads.

chuck

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 13:26:48 -0300
Subject: Re:  Northern Lights Chapter Web Site

> At 09:24 PM 4/5/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >> Hi Guys,
> >>
> >> Check this out and tell me what you think.
www.compusmart.ab.ca/kpilidis/ > >> > >> See ya. > >> > >> Ken Pilidis > >> >
>> > >Dang, I forgot, did you tell the Olds email list about this? > > > >D >
> > >Dang! I forgot to mention it.  I don't have their addresses - could you >
please inform them?:) > > Thanks > > Ken > > Yo, will forward to them...
FYI, Olds is oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca, Toronado is toro@armchair.mb.ca  Also
sending to Bryce Smith, bryceman@442.com and Heidi Magyar of Oldsmobile,
oldsheidi@aol.com

Doug

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 13:51:01 -0300
Subject: Re: W-30 Front Fender Emblem

Mike,
        Thanks for the information. I repainted this car 12 years ago and
added the W-30 stripes the W-30 emblems my brother had aready installed.
Those numbers soud pretty close I haven't measured the old stripe yet. I will
check it this affternoon



                                                                       Thanks








                                                                        Steve

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 14:41:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Third party help

In my info cutlass didn't seem to be until '61 1/2. A f-85 was offered with
a 155 hp. alum. V 8 in '61. The cutlass was introduced with a 185 hp. alum.
V 8 ( Rockette) in 61 1/2. Mid 62 was the year for the turbo gharged V 8.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Steven Karlecke <SDKAR@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 16:52:18 -0300
Subject: Shifter Cable

I am swithching my car from a bench seat to buckets and console.  I was
wondering if a shifter linkage cable and transmission cable bracket from
any other car will work for my 1970 Cutlass.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 09:17:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Third party help

Jo-Anne Hillier wrote:
>
> In my info cutlass didn't seem to be until '61 1/2. A f-85 was offered with
> a 155 hp. alum. V 8 in '61. The cutlass was introduced with a 185 hp. alum.
> V 8 ( Rockette) in 61 1/2. Mid 62 was the year for the turbo gharged V 8.
> Scott
> kozhill@titanlink.com

Scott,

That info on the Cutlass makes sense to me.  The 185 hp engine is a 4
barrel.  The Cutlass included a set of bucket seats, but no console just
as Buick did in their Skylark.  The console is a 1962/63 item on
Oldsmobile but not on Buick.  Buick also used the 2-speed AT while
Cutlass used the 3-speed AT.  All Cutlass cars for '61-62 were coupes &
not hardtops.  Buick had only a coupe for '61; but the Skylark was a
hardtop for '62.

The Jetfire was even worse than a '62 1/2.  It is more like '62 3/4 as
no cars were built until April & then they rushed 3765 to production.  I
believe that none were ever sticks that year.  I have seen 4-speed
Buicks & Cutlasses for '62.

All Jetfires were hardtops while the Cutlass was always a coupe until
1963 when coupes & hardtops were available.  1963 saw both AT & 4-speed
Jetfires.  There were 5842 Jetfires built all year long.

The convertible body was introduced in 1962.  My Jetfire has much of the
convertible parts in it.  Even the top is bolted on in my car & the
windshield is different from the coupe in that it doesn't have the
rubber seal around it - it has the pasty gasket seal for the windshield
just as the convertible does.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 09:20:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Shifter Cable

Steven Karlecke wrote:
>
> I am swithching my car from a bench seat to buckets and console.  I was
> wondering if a shifter linkage cable and transmission cable bracket from
> any other car will work for my 1970 Cutlass.

Steven,

Get the ones for the transmission type matching your car (i.e. TH350 or
TH400).  These can be obtained from any A body GM car of the '68-72 era.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 17:32:29 -0300
Subject: car info

I know it is not olds related but does anyone out there know of a place,
club, or mail info site such as this fine one, that relates to 67
firebirds( thats pontiac).
Sorry about the  "P" word but it would be a great help!
scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 19:02:15 -0300
Subject: Re: disc brake swap

What is the difference between 67-69 and later disc brakes.  Is it two
vs. four piston calipers?  Which are the more desirable?  Do both use
the same rotor?  Will a 2 piston caliper bolt up to a 4 piston backing
plate?  I just picked up a set of discs w/ 4 piston calipers and I am
going to go through them and I want to do the right thing.

Any insights or  suggestions apreciated.

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

From: "M. Taylor" <chef@citynet.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 19:46:29 -0300
Subject: Re: supplier reputations

At 11:34 PM 4/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>try Tamrazs parts warehouse in chicago. good parts, good prices
>jeff nelson
>69 442 conv
>
>Whats the number and address,  Thank you

Chef
69 350 Rocket conv
Life is like a box of chocolates...........

------------------------------

From: JNelson751@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 20:16:13 -0300
Subject: Re: supplier reputations

Tamraz's Parts Discount Warehouse,inc.
10022 S. Bode  Rd.
Plainfield. IL. 60544
ph.  630-904-4500         or        1-800-442-4601
fax  630-904-2329

------------------------------

From: Dan Lapp <dlapp@webxfm.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 20:22:54 -0300
Subject: new olds owner needs advice

Hello All,
        I'm new to the list and to owning an Olds. Just bought a '72
Cutlass, 350, 2bb, automatic. Body needs work but is otherwise sound - 29k
miles on it (no, not 129k). I'm wondering what it would take to put a 4bb
and dual exhaust on it - is it possible/desirable? Any other advice you'd
care to offer a newbie is most welcome.
Thanks
        Dan Lapp - dlapp@webxfm.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 21:38:34 -0300
Subject: 1969 Vista Cruiser Glass?

For those of you into the mid-60's Vista Cruiser Wagons:

I'm not much of an expert on this, but while at my mechanics garage I noticed
on old beat-up wagon.

It turned out to be a 1969 Buick Sports Wagon 400-4 vinª 444569H169306.

As I looked at it closer, I realized that all the glass (especially the Vista
Cruiser parts-sky glass) is perfect. All the stainless window trim is perfect
too, as well as all the lenses and rear tailgate glass.

Now, I know it's a Buick and correct me if I'm wrong, but it sure looks to me
that these glass pieces and lenses would fit and Olds wagon of similar
vintage.

I'm quite sure you could get these parts very cheap as it looks like it's
going to the crusher. The motor is siezed and tranny is locked-up.

If anyone is interested, e-mail me privately and I will give you the guys name
and phone number. The car is here in Milwaukee.

Sparky (gkalkhof@execpc.com)

- --
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 14:53:28 -0300
Subject: Re: supplier reputations

JNelson751@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Tamraz's Parts Discount Warehouse,inc.
> 10022 S. Bode  Rd.
> Plainfield. IL. 60544
> ph.  630-904-4500         or        1-800-442-4601
> fax  630-904-2329

You might try talking to Bob.  He has always done what I needed
including discounts - they say they will match any other company's
prices on the same object.  Discuss any discounts or lower prices before
the actual order.  He will tell me who makes the part & represents it's
quality honestly too.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 15:01:54 -0300
Subject: Re: new olds owner needs advice

Dan Lapp wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>         I'm new to the list and to owning an Olds. Just bought a '72
> Cutlass, 350, 2bb, automatic. Body needs work but is otherwise sound - 29k
> miles on it (no, not 129k). I'm wondering what it would take to put a 4bb
> and dual exhaust on it - is it possible/desirable? Any other advice you'd
> care to offer a newbie is most welcome.
> Thanks
>         Dan Lapp - dlapp@webxfm.com


Dan,

Unless you are serious about originality, I would do both.  The 4-barrel
is a simple swap of an intake & a carb.  These are rather plentiful yet,
but get the parts from a '69-'72.  The '68 has a separate choke that
isn't the best idea that Olds ever had.  Even a big Olds intake & carb
will work from a 350 engine.  Make note of all hoses, wiring, & throttle
attachments on the doner car so that you have an easy swap.  Get as many
of these parts from the doner as you can.

The dual exhaust is simply a go to the muffler shop & get it made item.
Expect a couple of hundred $ for a complete system.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 21:34:41 -0300
Subject: 1948 & 1949 Tech Bulletins For Sale (4/7)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

Miscellaneous 1948 and 1949 Oldsmobile Dealer Technical Information
Bulletins:

Bulletin Pages Title

48-W-65    2   1948 Series 98 Condition Air Heater Operation
48-W-66    1   Steering Pitman Arm Package 5661197
48-W-67    2   Service Radiator Cores - 1948 98 Series
49-W-62    1   Deck Lid "Rocket" Ornament - "88" Series
49-W-71    4   Postive Battery Cable - 1949 Eight Cylinder Models (3
copies)

18 pages total of vintage Oldsmobile Technical Bulletins, shipped via
Priority Mail to any address in the United States for $8.00.  (4/7/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this package of items or if you would like additional information about
them.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:06:10 -0300
Subject: Thanks for suspension info!

I'd like to thank y'all for the information that has been provided. I have
noticed from the e-mail list that some of you are regular givers of answers.
I have prided myself in the past in my knowledge of OLDSMOBILE. I see that I
am a fledgling in the nest of 442 knowledge. For instance, Mr. Mullen's mod
on oil return. I know I have read that in the past. Also,there was a
crankshaft procedure in one of the many magizines I've read. Does any one
remember it?

I took the front end clip off my 65 442 this afternoon(with
brother-n-brother in law assistance) and I feel very mixed in the emotion
dept about this move. I know what you might say, "To rebuild the front end?"
I have to repaint the engine as it looks to be 455 blue. I hear the wheels
rolling in your heads to this,but the ª on the engine is 389293B. Joe
Mondello assured me that I have a 65 400cid. That is all I got out of the
man. He is not like most of us gabby Alabamians. So I would like to ask some
one out there to decipher my car's vin for me to assure me of what I think I
have. Here goes:

                Inside door: 33837 5Z134815
                On Firewall: 8B Lansing,Michigan 21 (pressed in)
                          ST 65-33837BODY BF 11554
                          TR 953-13  PAINT DD-A
                         ACC 68198

Thanks to Dr. Barry for catching me up on the conversation about suspension
mods. The SSI rims I have on the car have me yen-yanging about the 12"
rotors. I am not sure if they will work with the f-body rotors. This is
getting long,even for Alabama. I ask y'all to bear with me. Kid w/new toy at
work.

Jim Smith
Clanton, AL

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 22:24:06 -0300
Subject: Dash chrome

Hey everyone, I took the dash completely apart today, I am going to have
Just Dashes in California redo my dash pad. I was wondering if anyone
knew how or where to get the chrome plastic around the guages and the
lower part of the dash redone. Also is there any place to by the plastic
part of the dash (ash tray, guage, and radio part) new? Mine is in good
shape but it is a little warped, I would really like to have a new one.

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:20:53 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint

evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
>
> >Another Hurst Olds question.
> >
> >Any ideas on where to find the Firefrost Gold paint used for the stripes
> >on the 69 H/O?  Mine are faded, but any old gold won't do.  I heard R&M
> >Paints has a formula for it, but how do I find this out.  ANY IDEAS????
> >Help!
> >
>
> A Little Different, Ltd. in West Palm Beach, FL sells either lacquer or
> enamel Firefrost Gold for $50/quart. You can reach them at (561) 640-4135.
>
> As this is my all-time favorite car (even though I don't own one....YET!), I
> take special interest in the well-being of these babies....let me know if
> you need any more info from this catalog.  Good luck!
>
> Mike Evans
> Richland, MI
> evans1@net-link.net


Mike,

I've ordered new emblems from A Little Different.  They are sending me
a  catalog/brochure with the order.  I haven't recieved them yet, so
another H/O question has come about.

The mirror gaskets are getting a little weathered.  I have NO IDEA who
would even make these, let alone where they are.  ANY HELP?  Anyone out
there have anything on this?  I heard there was a company repro-ing the
mirrors, so maybe they might have gaskets?  I know they are one-offs,
but the only other car to use them was the 69 SC/Rambler.

Thanks again,

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:32:52 -0300
Subject: Need help with cruise control

My 1978 98 Regency w/ 403, 4-bbl, AC, power everything and cruise, has a
lunging problem with the cruise control engaged.  Doesn't matter what
speed, it will decelerate and accellerate all of the time, making for a
very uncofortable ride.  I have tried to adjust it per service manual, but
to no avail.  Is anybody familiar with this problem and know how to fix it?
 Thanks in advance.

David Betz

1972 Delta 88 Royale Convt.
1978 98 Regency 2-door coupe

------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:39:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint

>
>
>Mike,
>
>I've ordered new emblems from A Little Different.  They are sending me
>a  catalog/brochure with the order.  I haven't recieved them yet, so
>another H/O question has come about.
>
>The mirror gaskets are getting a little weathered.  I have NO IDEA who
>would even make these, let alone where they are.  ANY HELP?  Anyone out
>there have anything on this?  I heard there was a company repro-ing the
>mirrors, so maybe they might have gaskets?  I know they are one-offs,
>but the only other car to use them was the 69 SC/Rambler.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Mike Rothe
>
>
Mike,

Actually, I recall the '69 H/O mirror topic as a semi-recurring thread a
while back.  Also, I recall someone pointing out that the Rambler mirrors
were quite similar, but not identical.......

Sadly, I also have no idea on the gasket source...sorry.


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:46:00 -0300
Subject: Exhaust

Message text written by INTERNET:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Steve,

You're not one of those guys that would like their LT1 to sound like 4
Harleys idling?

Personally I like the exhaust tone of my LT1.

The Wiz<

No, I don't want my LT-1 to sound like that.  Nor do I want it to sound
like a Z-28 (a little too loud).  I just want it to sound like a V-8.
Remember, the Impala SS has a Caprice exhaust system.  It may be TRUE
duals, but it still has quiet mufflers and resonators.  I did enjoy the
exhaust on my 1995 Z-28 6-speed, but that sound is appropriate for a Z-28
and not my Impala.  The 442 has a rumble that lets you know it is a v-8,
but it is not so loud as to be annoying inside the car.  I have ordered a
B&B Fabrication Tri-Flo system for the Impala.  I have heard Borla's on
Z-28s and thought the pitch was too high and a little too loud.

Steve Ochs - Mfg/Product Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - The statements and opinions
expressed here are NOT an official statement of General Motors
or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:46:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash chrome

At 10:24 PM 4/6/97 -0300, Shang wrote:
>Hey everyone, I took the dash completely apart today, I am going to have
>Just Dashes in California redo my dash pad. I was wondering if anyone
>knew how or where to get the chrome plastic around the guages and the
>lower part of the dash redone. Also is there any place to by the plastic
>part of the dash (ash tray, guage, and radio part) new? Mine is in good
>shape but it is a little warped, I would really like to have a new one.

Many swap meets that I have been to have one or two companies there that
will rechrome dash pieces so I know they are out there. I never looked into
it though so I can't tell you the companies names.
>
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 00:16:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash chrome

Shang wrote:
>
> Hey everyone, I took the dash completely apart today, I am going to have
> Just Dashes in California redo my dash pad. I was wondering if anyone
> knew how or where to get the chrome plastic around the guages and the
> lower part of the dash redone. Also is there any place to by the plastic
> part of the dash (ash tray, guage, and radio part) new? Mine is in good
> shape but it is a little warped, I would really like to have a new one.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

Steve,

I'm not sure about the edge chrome refinishing you are talking about on
the dash, but the instrument cluster bezel can be rechromed in it's
entirety.  I've had my 71 442 done that way.  I sent it off to Mr. G's
rechroming service.  That and my dual gate console extension piece.  The
quality of the rechrome was fantastic.  In fact, after 8 years, it is
just starting to show signs of wear.  (Try that with factory original)

However, when you get the replating done, your piece will come back
entirely chrome.  You must obtain the correct laminate of fake wood
(burlwood, in your case) and paint the upper portion of the panel (top
part that faces downward) and the leading ring around the gages (closest
to the guage) flat black.  A lot of people may give me flak for this,
but I found on plastic parts, for flat black, use Testor's model spray
paint.  Works great, and it is really a close match for original.  Of
course, you may want to scuff up or remove the chrome in this area for
best adhesion, but I didn't and the paint's still there!

Look in Hemming's Motor News in the Services Section, and you will find
some rechroming services.  I've asked all of them about edge stamping
the chrome. None of them said they do it because it costs too much to
make the dies.  So, about the lower part of your dash, I'm in the same
boat.  But, if there is anybody out there who can help, let both of us
know!!!

Mike Rothe
71 442
85 442
69 H/O

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 00:23:47 -0300
Subject: 69 H/O mirrors

I was e-mailing with Mike Evans about 69 H/O mirror gaskets, and I seem
to recall a company was making the repro mirrors.  He told me that was a
topic threaded around a while back.  Sorry, I missed it.  I heard the
mirror housings were in plastic, and of not the greatest in quality.
Mind you, I've never seen them, but this is what I've heard.  Anyway, if
they made (or still make) the mirrors, maybe they have gaskets.  Mine
are getting weathered.  If this company still exists, anybody got info
on this?  ANY IDEAS people?

------------------------------

From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 00:51:28 -0300
Subject: A/C conversions

I am putting my 72 Vista back together and would like to know if anyone
has heard of a retrofit kit to convert the old R-12 system to the new
R-134a product.

I have read that there is no need to change anything other than the
drier/accumulator and update the hoses.  Is this true?

Any response or addresses of where I can contact A/C specialists would
be greatly appreciated.

THANKS

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª596
********************************
