To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #562


oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 16 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 562

Re: New York
Re: Carb Modifications:  Aun
Re: Hall's Auto Salvage
Re: Carb Modifications
re:sway bars
Tech Tip! (fwd)
re:Catalytic convertor in 81 307
Leaky valve cover gaskets.....
Re: Leaky valve cover gaskets.....
Re: Leaky valve cover gaskets.....
Re: A couple longer questions
Re: PST front end kit
Re: PST front end kit
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS
H.O. Quad 4
H.O. Quad 4
H.O. Quad 4
Convertible top cleaning
Re: Convertible top cleaning
Re: Still in Stock -Reply
Re: Junkyard Idiots
Brake distribution
Foor pan installer
Re: Convertible top cleaning
Re: RWD Eldorodo
Hot NEW Parts
Re: Brake distribution
'nuther project('67 Cut Sup)
Re: 'nuther project('67 Cut Sup)
Re: Hall's Auto Salvage
Re: Junkyard Idiots!
Year One and Product Honesty
Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS
Re: H.O. Quad 4
Re: 'nuther project('67 Cut Sup)
Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS
Re: Slide hammer and doomed gOldsmobiles
Re: Axle Code
Re: H.O. Quad 4
69 98 Rear End
[Fwd: Olds 307 detonation (pinging) problem]
Re: Axle Code
1956  W/S wiper conversion

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:00:30 -0400
Subject: Re: New York

At 14:51 3/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Is anybody in here from the new york area (sometimes i think i am the only
>one) and has any advice on  where i could get a paint job for a resonable
>price and some body work...i have also been looking for a decent junkyard or
>someplace i could pick up a rear passenger side tail light...and some other
>odds and ends for a 85 Delta 88
>thanx in advance...
>
>------------------------------------------
>Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
>junior627@aol.com
>1985 Delta 88 Royale 2 door
>V6 231 3.8 L Rwd.
>------------------------------------------
>
  Where is the New York area.  I know of a couple of very good shops that
can do the work that you want but NY is a large state.

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:17:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Modifications:  Aun

  So what's your point???

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:28:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Hall's Auto Salvage

Thanks Everett,

Since these are going to be [{(I can' even think about it)}] anyway,
parts/whole cars may go at slightly lesser rates, right? I think I just
decided on how to spend my Easter weekend. Provided all goes well with my
axle a few hours from now, I am seriously considering a jaunt to Soldier, KS
(provided there are some 64-66 [anything that might fit!] Dynamic 88's or
anything with a 425 or - or -). Hey, give me a break, I only just read about
it, I still need to call, I am trying hard to excite myself into actually
going, rather than typing about it.

Everett, is Hall's open on Saturdays? (i.e. can I call him today) If so, what
are his hours.

If I get favorable results how can I persuade others of you from the midwest
to join me?

Just trying to commune with nature/Oldsmobiles.
               They are one and the same, right.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL via Soldier KS

Duct tape riding shotgun and holding my Pepsi.

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:44:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Modifications

Don't get me wrong. Increased performance like that does in fact merit
praise. It's just that what you refer to as light work would probably take me
two weeks with multiple consultations to this list (including yourself), my
service manual, and miscellaneous local gearheads. To wit; if exhaust, carb,
and timing overhauls are light work to you, you're a better man than me.
{[(Gunga Din)]}


After all, I'm still trying to keep black differential oil from leaking into
my brake drums.


1965 Dynamic 88
Karl Aune
Chicago,IL

Peace, Love, and Oldsmobiles

well...   forget about the peace thing, it's overrated anyway.

------------------------------

From: "Greg Sage" <tootall@cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:49:54 -0400
Subject: re:sway bars

>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
WROTE:

Good advice (especially the matched components!). Replace the springs,
control arm bushings, and add appropriate shocks first. You may not want
more, but you should not ADD anything until all the original equipment is
working correctly!

How much handling do you want??? If you want to be very aggressive, the
anti-sway bar is the last thing to add. In addition to the above, you could
opt for polygraphite urethane bushings instead of rubber (I used Energy
Suspension) or Delrin bushings, put in air bags (the ones that go in the
springs, not the ones for the dash ;-), and use "good" shocks (KYB, Koni,
etc. Stay away from consumer stuff like Gabriel if you are going the
aggressive route). THEN add the sway bar IF you are getting body roll.

This is some serious work. You will want to have another ride while parts
are being replaced (like the bushings). For the rear-end, all the work is
relatively easy to do (except for replacing the bushings which requires
special tools). The rear end will run about $400 - $500 (US) for all parts
(except way bar) including labor for the bushings. You will get every
pennies worth of handling tho...

My goodness!  I'm not looking to set a land speed record, just looking at
better handling on our Canadian potholed streets..hehe.  Thanks for the
advice and I'll keep it in mind.  Currently, I have replaced the rear
springs with cargo coils as I am looking at getting a trailer.  These coils
also raised my back end up about 1 1/2 inches which looks cool(young pup in
me talking).  I have Munro Sensa-trak shocks in the rear as well, and
frankly I am not happy with them.  Sure, they adjust to the ride, but when
you hit the odd pothole..watchout!  I think I am going to the wreckers this
weekend to check out sway bars their.  Thanks for the advice all!

Greg Sage
Calgary, Alberta..Canada
1982 Olds Cutlass
"Cheers to the 80's Babies!"

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc.seflin.org>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 02:47:02 -0400
Subject: Tech Tip! (fwd)

Dennis Jon Sytsma

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

or you can cc a copy to my full internet account at

sytsma@gzinc.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:45:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc>
To: Scott/Sara Panacek <scott_442@msn.com>
Subject: Tech Tip!

Last month I wrote about engine compression tests, oil leaks, and simple
improvments to old worn engines.  Under the "I should have said" Icon.....
when I said "excess crankcase gasses are caused by worn rings" I should
have said "worn rings or blocked crankcase breather".  I had a oil leak
that I stuided for months.  I noticed oil around the breather and rear of
the engine.  Later (much later) I pulled the PCV valve with the engine
running.  I felt lots of pressure!  I could not understand this because
the compression tests were good!  I pulled the crankcase breather and
found the pressure was gone and the breather was blocked.  I spent around
$ 3.00 to replace it.  The oil leaks are gone!

I cannot over emphemise the need to do engine evaluations before doing
engine tear downs to repair unknown problems.  Simple tests on a
assembled engine saves lots of $$$.

When you change the breather, you may find the rubber parts are hard and
will crack.  you will find replacement rubber parts at local auto parts
stores.  Buy them when you buy a new breather.  I never had to replace
one before, but I guess thats why this item goes overlooked.

I have e mail.  So if you want to "swap tech tips" go right ahead.  If I
like the ideas I may forward them to OCF for future tech tips.  For real
fun send e mail to "majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca" type in "subscribe
oldsmobile" in the message area followed by your e mail adress and then
stand back!  a oldsmobile newsgroup exists on internet, and you just
instructed the "robot" to send all the news to your mailbox!  It genrates
over 100 messages a day.  To stop it send e mail to the same adress and
type unsubscribe oldsmobile followed by your e mail adress.

You can always send a message to the newsgroup by sending it to
"oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca"  be sure to instruct everyone to reply to your
message at your e mail adress or you may get a response on the newsgroupe
but not to your mailbox unless you ask for it.

I use e mail to exchange ideas and tips and find parts for my 1970 Olds
98 LS.  Send me e mail if you like!

Dennis Jon Sytsma
dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

------------------------------

From: "Greg Sage" <tootall@cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 03:02:07 -0400
Subject: re:Catalytic convertor in 81 307

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:26:44 -0400
Subject: Catalytic convertor in 81 307
Wrote:

Would anybody know if and how much improvment can be made in terms of power
and/or fuel economy by by-passing a catalytic convertor in a 1981 Delta 88,
307, 5.0. (I know that it is illegal in most states and provinces but it
was already by-passed when I bought it.)

Hey Neighbor! (cadvision..assuming Calgary)  I actually heard that there is
a significant increase in power when cutting out the Catalytic converter.
I am doing that same thing this weekend.  Went to Canadian Tire and bought
a red bullet(glass pack) and a length of pipe(to replace converter).  Over
the years the converter get's clogged supposedly, I heard as well.  I will
let you know of the details on monday.  As far as illegal-ness...it not
illegal in Alberta...I have confirmed that with several people.

Greg Sage
Calgary, Alberta..Canada
1982 Olds Cutlass 2dr
"Cheers to the 80's Babies!"

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 03:05:47 -0400
Subject: Leaky valve cover gaskets.....

Can anyone tell me why my valve cover gaskets always seem to leak? Its not a
lot but even a little is unacceptable. It's strange but it seems like the
oil seeps through the valve cover screws that over time loosen. Is there any
way to prevent this from happening? And lastly what type of gasket should i
use;--     cork, rubber, a combination of both or what, and should this be
installed using RTV silicone??

Aaron D Eoff
77 OLds Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 08:28:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky valve cover gaskets.....

At 03:05 AM 3/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me why my valve cover gaskets always seem to leak? Its not a
>lot but even a little is unacceptable. It's strange but it seems like the
>oil seeps through the valve cover screws that over time loosen. Is there any
>way to prevent this from happening? And lastly what type of gasket should i
>use;--     cork, rubber, a combination of both or what, and should this be
>installed using RTV silicone??
>
>Aaron D Eoff
>77 OLds Cutlass "S"
>
>

Aaron

        I have found only one way to keep valve covers from leaking. Mine
have been on my SX for 5 years and still do not leak. I prefer rubber
gaskets over cork. Then I take hardening Peratex and place it only on th
valve cover and not the engine. Make sure everything is clean before the
install. Wipe the gasket areas down with lacquer thinner first. When you
tighten them down "DON'T USE A RACHET". I use a nut driver and only snug
them well with a screwdriver like twist. Over tightening is the major cause
of the leaks. Silicon doesn't help either. It has a tendency to let the
gasket scworm too much.  Hope this helps you oil leaks.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 09:18:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky valve cover gaskets.....

It has a tendency to let the
gasket scworm too much.  Hope this helps you oil leaks.
On Sat, 15 Mar 1997 08:28:14 -0400 James & Joanne Chermack
<chermac@exis.net> writes:
It has a tendency to let the
gasket scworm too much.  Hope this helps you oil leaks.
>
>Jim Chermack
>70 Cutlass SX W-32
>72 442
Hey Jim: is this another Balckshoe sailor word?? Never heard or "scworm"
before. What exactly does this mean?   :)

Katana72

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 09:50:51 -0400
Subject: Re: A couple longer questions

Eric Aksomitis wrote:

<snip>

> or majour unreliability (my favourite oldsmobile quality).

<snip>

I'm confused, what else is new ;)
Reliability is one thing I've ~always~ had with Oldsmobiles.  Granted
most of mine have been '70-'72, so I can't speak from experience about
others, but I've never been stranded in an Olds.  Even the '82 Delta 88
had good reliability (no power, but reliability).  One of the reasons I
bought my first Olds ('72 C/S) was on advice from my brother (who turns
wrenches for a living).  He always said the (pre '73) Olds could go 125K
without much work, very reliable and well built.  I've ~never~ had
reason to argue this point with him as I've never had to put much money
in any of my Olds (tinkering around and tweaking them yes, which was
mainly for ~my~ enjoyment).

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 10:45:17 -0400
Subject: Re: PST front end kit

PST polygraphite front end kit.
> I am thinking about going throught the front end on my '69 442. Does anyone
have any experience good or bad with this company and/or its product?  How
hard of a job is it?

any insight is much appreciated

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

From: Ossipee104@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 10:18:46 -0400
Subject: Re: PST front end kit

excellent choice, This is probably the best and easy mod you can do to
improve your ride. It might be labor intensive, but boy is it worth it. PST
kits are very good. If you ask them, they also have rubber seals for your
car. I did the entire front end with springs and shocks and my car rides
really nice. My next move is the rear suspension. TRY IT YOU'LL LIKE IT.

------------------------------

From: Marvin Kirschenbaum <kirschm@hoflink.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 10:49:58 -0400
Subject: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

I am considering purchasing a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS, with the only
option of a CD/Cassette radio being ordered.  I would be interested in
getting any opinions, both good or bad.

Thank you

------------------------------

From: "Kenneth Busby" <kennybee@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 12:39:21 -0400
Subject: H.O. Quad 4

I own a 1992 Achieva SCX W41 and would like to hear from any other
enthusiest that owns one of these 190 hp, 4 bangers, or someone who knows
some hop-up tips they would like to share about this engine.

------------------------------

From: "Kenneth Busby" <kennybee@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 12:47:10 -0400
Subject: H.O. Quad 4

I own a 1992 Achieva SCX W41, and would like to hear from any enthusiest
who owns  one of these 190 hp, 4 bangers, or someone who has any hop-up
tips they would like to share regarding this engine.

------------------------------

From: "Kenneth Busby" <kennybee@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 12:50:42 -0400
Subject: H.O. Quad 4

I own a 1992 Achieva SCX W41, and would like to hear from any enthusiest
that owns one of these 190 hp, 4 bangers, or from someone who knows some
hop-up tricks that can be performed on this car/engine.

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 06:07:00 -0400
Subject: Convertible top cleaning

Any one know the best way to clean and detail a white convertible top?
It is only 4 years old but needs cleaning.  How can I get it nice and
white again?

------------------------------

From: FBrussee@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 13:38:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Convertible top cleaning

westley's bleche-white

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 14:37:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Still in Stock -Reply

> >       power steering pump kit	7848522	   list	$20.30
> >       fan shroud			402995		$59.00
> >       exhaust manifold tab locks	399423		$1.65
> >       firewall grommets		557242		$3.40	
> 	  Thermostat housing 		409037		$17.00
> Sweet!  I need all those things.  How 'bout some part numbers?

				David Nye

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 14:53:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots

On Sat, 15 Mar 1997 ANTIQOLDS@aol.com wrote:
>   I was in Kansas recently at Halls Auto Salvage in Soldier Kansas.
> but while I was there I got to where Oldsmobiles go when they die. He has
> over 3000 Oldsmobiles fron 1935 - 1986-86. Well since I bought his NOS he
> felt it was time to  "get out of the business"
>   Well he is closing April 1st. He has contracted a guy to come in and crush
> yes crush all those Oldsmobiles. Thousands of good usable parts gone for
> good. I wish I had the ability to buy these but no way.
>   Is there anybody who could or know somebody that might be interested
before > the ball falls. There are 200 acres of clean land with around 3000 >
Oldsmobiles plus at least 2000 "other" cars.

This is sad. A year or so ago some might recall a discussion here after
Hall's was advertised as being for sale in JWO. There was some talk that
we could get together and buy the place, and I remember we had firm
commitments from folks for... oh, I think $50 or so. ;-) Needless to say,
nothing happened.

I find it hard to believe that Warren Hall would allow all of this stuff
to be crushed. In fact, one wonders if the OCA might not want to
intervene if they have the resources. I don't know if they do. I sure
hope someone in the business can come along and save this stuff before
the crusher gets there.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 15:00:47 -0400
Subject: Brake distribution

I'm changing from drum to disc on my '71 Cutlass rag-top. I've got new
M/C, calipers, rotors, hoses, etc. Does the brake distribution valve
need to be replaced too. If so does anyone have one reeeeel cheap! I'm
about 200% over budget now!
			Thanks,
				David Nye

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 18:00:16 -0400
Subject: Foor pan installer

>From a book--sectioning floor pans-be sure that rear section overlaps
front section-front of new pan on top of original metal-rear section of
original metal on top of new pan metal-so road spash does not hit seam
head on-(sides not mentioned)-plug weld overlaps from top-lap weld on
bottom edge with continuous bead-(try to get them to use *weld thru*
sspray on seams before welding-prevents corrosion on overlap)-prime lap
weld (underside)-then a seam sealer & then topcoat-supposed to keep
carbon monoxide out of passenger compartment--doing an entire floor on a
'48 plymouth myself (forever)-good luck-never found anybody that would
do it right that I could afford and never found anybody I could afford
that didn't tick me off by using screws or rivets-usually through my
moldings.

Kevin
78/98/2D/diesel

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 18:25:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Convertible top cleaning

In the book I got from Heidi of Oldsmobile called Aids For The Oldsmobile
Enthusiast there is a place listed that has cleaner and sealer. Its Koala
International P.O. Box 255 Eagle PA   (215) 458-8395. I haven't trird it
yet maybe someone else on the list has.
Walter
66 Delta 88 Ragtop

- ----------
> From: John M. Loban <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Convertible top cleaning
> Date: Saturday, March 15, 1997 4:07 AM
>
> Any one know the best way to clean and detail a white convertible top?
> It is only 4 years old but needs cleaning.  How can I get it nice and
> white again?
>

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 13:32:24 -0400
Subject: Re: RWD Eldorodo

> 	Would that make it the first rear wheel drive Eldorado in
> 	30 or so odd years?  Maybe this time around Olds can learn
> 	something from Cadillac, and come out with a rwd Toronado.

Yup, '66 was the last RWD Eldorado.  I remember reading somewhere that
the new, possibly RWD Eldorado may be significantly smaller, making it a
sort of companion car to the Catera.  I also read that the Catera's '99
or so replacement will be FWD.  Go figure.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 18:53:06 -0400
Subject: Hot NEW Parts

Hey All,

        Just went up and was attempting to clean oout a friend of mine of
ALL of his Olds parts. He's getting out of it completely. So here is a
partial list of the things we picked up today.

67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Side molding set (missing three pieces, in good to
very good cond.) $ inquire
66-67 Glove Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice)  $65.00
66-67 Rear Window molding sets. (Mint) $75.00 set
66 F-85 RH Taillight lens and bucket (Nice) $25.00
66 Cutlass LH Qrt Molding (Nice) $20.00
68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)   $25.00
68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
More 14x7 SSII's $150.00 set of 4
RH 70-72 Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
70-72 Long Wheelwell Moldings  $80.00 set of 4
70-71 C/S Short Wheelwell moldings  $100.00 set of 4
66-67 SSI (all chrome) 14x6 Wheels (good cond) $150.00 set of 4

67 F-85 Post Coupe, 61000 miles, 6cyl, auto, stripper, super clean all
paperwork $3500.00

66 442 Post Coupe, 400, auto, clean body, new bumpers, radio and heater
delete car, beautiful grille, support has RamAir holes,  $1500.00

66 442 Post Coupe Trac-Pac Car, 400 Tri-Carb RamAir, Shroud #62, 21,000
miles, 4spd, 3.91:1 Anti-spin, needs paint,  $8500.00

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442
(757)474-0869

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 16:37:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake distribution

David Nye wrote:
>
> I'm changing from drum to disc on my '71 Cutlass rag-top. I've got new
> M/C, calipers, rotors, hoses, etc. Does the brake distribution valve
> need to be replaced too. If so does anyone have one reeeeel cheap! I'm
> about 200% over budget now!
>                         Thanks,
>                                 David Nye


Hey Dave,

	I just completed that change on my Cutlass. I was told that the
proportioning valve is different from the drum brake one and I changed
mine. I did this same conversion on a '70 Pontiac LeMans, and I did NOT
change the valve, I did not have any problems with the brakes, but the
LeMans did not stop as well as my Cutlass does. I would say skip it for
now if you are over budget, but get one as soon as you can.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 11:34:35 -0400
Subject: 'nuther project('67 Cut Sup)

Well now i've done it.  I happened upon one I couldn't pass up.  A 1967
Cutlass Supreme 2dr hardtop.  Right now the color is just plain rust with a
few patches of  white paint.  It's missing it's vinyl top (i'm actually
glad, I don't like them) and the driver's side quarter is rusted through in
the bottom and around the lip of the fender.  A couple of rust holes through
the floor pan as well but enough left to patch.  Non-original 350 motor that
hasn't run in 7 years and a jetaway trans that slips.  (Well the guy said it
was a jetaway)
              On the plus side, the  car has complete glass, all signal/tail
lenses, all of the original trim, complete interior with good door panels, a
split bench seat, and air conditioning.  There's also a dual master cylinder
(though I don't like the drum brakes) and an exeptionally straight
body.(well at least I think so)  I saw one dent in the door that had bondo
roughed in but that was all.  I'm sure there's some kmart rash I missed the
first time I went over it.  I paid the asking price, $200.  I thought it was
a decent price for a 30 year old salvageable coupe.  I think it's a cute
sporty looking little car....just have to look past the surface rust.  It's
hurtin' though and I hope to de-chrome and get a complete primer coat on
ASAP before the cancer is teminal.

Looks like it'll be at least another year before I'm able to buy a '66 Toro.
:(   But the Cutlass looks to be a fun ride.  (I'm allready thinking 'bout
`75 firebird front disk brakes and spindles, 1.25 inch sway bar in front, 1
inch in rear, rear disk brakes, 245 tires all around.  A 350 4bbl with my
400 tranny, or even a 4-speed.)

I'd love to know what the vin means if anyone would like to decode it when
they get a chance I'd really appreciate it:

338177G104359


Thank you

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser (very first car)
`67 Cutlass Supreme( very second car)

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 20:50:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 'nuther project('67 Cut Sup)

    Hey!!!!
               Good luck on your new aquisition,  67 Olds and the 64/65 F85's
are my favorite Olds models.   Nice to hear that onother one has been saved.


                                     J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 22:13:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Hall's Auto Salvage

Hi Carl
  Yes Halls is open Sat His hours are Mon-Sat 8-5 pm
   Sorry I read this so  late it won't do you any good today, I was at my own
Olds yard today strippinga 66 Toro.
   I hope that post alerted enough people its a shame all those Olds getting
*&^%$^&*(*, I can't bear the thought. I just can't do anything myself.
   Let me know how you make out.
   As for the OCA I called and spoke to Steve De Novi and he told me he would
advise people but thats about all.

Regards    Everett Horton   #1961

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 22:59:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots!

Man, that's horrible!!  Don't they know what they're doing?!
Ditto the "AAAAAUGH!!!!"
So sorry to hear that! :(

       Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 00:13:12 -0400
Subject: Year One and Product Honesty

I've been lurking, reading the digests and the messages about problems with
vendors.

FWIW, I believe Year One (now) indicates potential problems with fit and or
originality because they _have_ to.

A story I have heard too many times to dispute indicates that they were sued,
by one or many, over how particular products were presented.  That is, they
didn't fit or otherwise perform as advertised.  To avoid further problems
they now indicate the quality and fit.

Also remember that a few years ago the big three (GM and those "other" guys)
came down pretty hard on parts counterfeiters.  Although the primary villains
were thieves selling counterfeit parts in GM marked boxes, they also hit the
restoration parts industry.  Actually shut a bunch of them down for a while.
No license from GM?  You will be sued!  But most met the standards GM
established pretty quickly and eventually everyone was back in business.

IMO, these and other related factors forced the restoration industry to clean
up _some_ of it's collective act.  As noted there are still problems.  Just
be a little happy that current GM policy on restoration parts pretty much
covers the safety related items and that the court system is forcing the
reputable dealers to be honest.

There will always be crooks and con artists.  Our hobby is no different.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 00:07:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

Marvin Kirschenbaum wrote:
>
> I am considering purchasing a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS, with the only
> option of a CD/Cassette radio being ordered.  I would be interested in
> getting any opinions, both good or bad.
>
> Thank you

Get the Quad 4.

Jeff	'91 Quad 442 W-41

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 00:20:35 -0400
Subject: Re: H.O. Quad 4

Kenneth Busby wrote:
>
> I own a 1992 Achieva SCX W41 and would like to hear from any other
> enthusiest that owns one of these 190 hp, 4 bangers, or someone who knows
> some hop-up tips they would like to share about this engine.

Ken,

I have a '91 Quad 442 W-41.  The 91 & 92 W-41s are the best of the
bunch.  I went with Dynomax Cat back exhaust and a K&N Air filter.  You
could also try a performance CAT.  Mantapart performance (330)549-3188
builds racing engines and sell performance parts.  They are an excellent
source.

BTW there are several Quad 4 enthusiasts on this list.  Welcome aboard.

Jeff Antonucci

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 00:50:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 'nuther project('67 Cut Sup)

Congratulations Greg - my very first car (I ever bought) was a '67 Cutlass
Supreme convertible.  The one I shouldn't have let get away, etc. etc.

I don't feel so bad now for paying $100 for my Vista Cruiser project either.

Good luck - you'll love her.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 01:20:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

> > I am considering purchasing a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS, with the only
> > option of a CD/Cassette radio being ordered.  I would be interested in
> > getting any opinions, both good or bad.
>
> Get the Quad 4.

I think the Cutlass was originally supposed to receive the same base
engine as the M*libu, the 2.4L Twin Cam (the successor to the Quad 4).
However, before its introduction, the 3.1L V6 was chosen to become the
sole powerplant offered.  Can anyone confirm this?  I've also heard that
they will be marketing the Cutlass in Canada, despite an earlier
announcement to the contrary.

The reports on the new M*libu/Cutlass have all been favourable.  One
popular comment was that the styling has an 'import' flavour.  Although
the latter trait isn't desirable to many on this list, the Cutlass
is still a highly competitive mid-size sedan.  Although this is a
'new' model, many components, like the drivetrain, are carry-overs, so
reliability should not be a concern.  Have you test-driven a new Cutlass?
What are your initial impressions??

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 01:24:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Slide hammer and doomed gOldsmobiles

Well, today was interesting....

First of all, thanks to Everett for the hours of Hall's. It didn't matter
that you sent late, I was too busy/frustrated to call today. Monday for sure.
No, really!

Today was the day for me to tackle a pesky oil seal. I can't claim a positive
experience. Although I had considered it during the week, I opted not to seek
to buy a slide hammer (it is the tool proscribed by the service manual for
removal of an axle oil seal). This from the same person who has lately been
searching for the "correct" bit or tool to properly open the differential
fill plug! (viz. irony)

 In short, if it says use a slide hammer, use a slide hammer. There is a tool
on the market called a "seal puller". Craftsman carries it. Do not give it a
second look. When my initial attempts (don't ask!) to remove the oil seal
failed, I went in search of the sacred slide hammer. Apparently, if any shop
near me has one, it is the one that I have not called/been to yet. So,
failing the proper solution, I tried the "seal puller" which is essentially
this:   ----}   . After bending the handle in two places (I can bring it back
for replacement--- great  :-{  )  the tool succeeded only in ripping through
the seal and did nothing to unseat the outermost edge. Eventually I succeeded
in removing the old seal by grasping a 'new' tab in the seal with my Vice
Grips and applying the necessary leverage.

 So on to the new seal. It looks a little different from the one that I
pulled out, but I have faith. Mainly because I saw the entry in the parts
catalogue that directed the salesperson to that part. It said something like
1967-65 except J-88; Chicago Rawhide part #19273. I have Dynamic 88, so this
is the right part (I guess). So, now the easy part. Just apply sealer to the
outer diameter and install the seal. =:-0

The seal fits very snugly in the area of the axle tube that is nearly one
inch from, and -wider- than the position where it is supposed to seat. After
a considerable amount of brute force (four hours in 30 degree weather) I gave
up for frustration and severe exposure. I can only conclude that I must
REALLY love this car.

Although I have been aware of the existence of a seal installer tool (per
manual), I am also aware that I have never heard or seen such a tool before.
So when I began to look for it I hadn't much for expectations.
 Lo and behold, what do I find in the first shop I look, but a tool called a
'seal driver.'
It is a metal handle (looks suitable for striking with iron in the direction
of the seal) which comes with plastic(!?!) discs of varying diameters. Each
disc has the same size hole in its center, and the instructions direct you to
bolt (provided bolt) two (or three) discs (the outermost one being of
appropriate size) to the handle, and deliver blows to the opposite end of the
handle to seat a seal. Will try this tomorrow. May need a new seal for the
attempt.

My lesson from this misadventure is to take the directions of the service
manual as gospel. (Oldsmobies are so divine...)

Good B'Ye from one soon to own a slide hammer.
     Incidentally,  it looks a lot like a dent puller.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
   0              A  A
Chicago,IL

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 01:17:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle Code

Matthew Mayer wrote:
>
> chuck kapigian wrote:
> >
> > I was wondering if anybody has knowledge of this axle code { 2 AF O 070
> > }. It is from an '83 Hurst/Olds. I have a Chassis Service Manual for all
> > '83 Oldsmobiles but it is not in there. It displays three pages of
> > charts of different varieties, but not the code I posses. Thanks
> >
> > -Chuck
> Chuck,
>  I checked both my '82 and '86 manuals and can't find any refence to a 2
> AF...but then they didn't make the H/O either of those years either...
> maybe someone has an '84 manual they can check??
>
> --Matt Mayer
> '86 442
Chuck,
   duh, I realized I had never checked my Haynes manual that covers
basically everything from 74 - 88 (to some degree at least...) it says
the AF axle is a 3.08 non-locking used in 1977.  Of course I said the
book covers later years to some degree...which general means it was
written in about 1980/81 and then had only minor revisions/additions
after that....so it is possible the AF was used after 1977, they just
didn't bother to revise the axle code list...

Hope this helps some more...

- ---Matt
'86 442
- --

Kelly B. Mayer
Northwestern University, Evanston, IL.   USA
kma224@lulu.acns.nwu.edu

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 01:22:26 -0400
Subject: Re: H.O. Quad 4

>Kenneth Busby wrote:
>>
>> I own a 1992 Achieva SCX W41 and would like to hear from any other
>> enthusiest that owns one of these 190 hp, 4 bangers, or someone who knows
>> some hop-up tips they would like to share about this engine.

Well I would swap in an LT1 for starters.........hold on just kidding. That
was worthless content for BHap:)

Anyways I just got my new Dick Miller Racing catalog and he has pistons,
piston rings, honing plates, Pro-Copper solid head gaskets in different
thickness', main bearings, rod bearings and a camshaft that can be custom
ground to your specs for lobe centers for the Quad 4.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 13:07:18 -0400
Subject: 69 98 Rear End

>	I have been told that the rearend in some 68-69 old's is
>reasonably valuable, due to the fact that it can be easierly put into a
>chev 1/2 ton (I have also been told that they made 200mpg cars that the

The rear ends from 69 and 70 98's are somewhat rare because they only
fit 69 and 70 98's.  They don't interchange with other years, other
Oldsmobile models, or other GM models.

Want to take a guess on how I know?

There may be some trailer towing, high gear ratio, limited-slip Olds 98
rear end highly desired by Chevy 1/2 ton truck owners who want to convert
to a quality coil spring rear end.  But, who can tell what Chevy owners
are thinking, anyway.

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\ (810)
825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/ Sterling Hts.,
MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 01:41:35 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Olds 307 detonation (pinging) problem]

Found this in rec.autos.tech...thought he would like some advice from
the pros over here...I guess you should e-mail him
direct....alphasig@worldnet.att.net

- ---Matt

Robert G. Ahrens wrote:
>
> I an having a bit of a problem with detonation in my 1987 Olds Cutlass w/
> 307 CID (VIN Y)
>
> Before you answer, let me fill you in:
>
> I have checked the timing and it is set as per the underhood sticker, the
> EGR valave is working, the enginge is not running hot and I am running
> super unleaded fuel. At first I thought the problem was low octane fuel,
> but after filling with super, the detonation still exists. The way I see
> it, if the timing is dead-on, and everything else is working, I should
> not be having this problem.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas on a fix or any suggestions on the cause?
>
> Bill
> A Chevy guy playing with Olds

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 02:03:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle Code

 chuck kapigian wrote:
 >
 > I was wondering if anybody has knowledge of this axle code { 2 AF O 070
 > }. It is from an '83 Hurst/Olds. I have a Chassis Service Manual for all
 > '83 Oldsmobiles but it is not in there. It displays three pages of
 > charts of different varieties, but not the code I posses. Thanks
 >
 > -Chuck

My Olds ID numbers book shows code AF as a 3.73:1 non-positraction rear.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 10:24:25 -0400
Subject: 1956  W/S wiper conversion

Folks,

	I have a 1956 Super 88 and I am looking for a way to convert my
windshield wipers from vaccum to electric.  Are there any kits
available.  Has anyone had any success in this conversion?  Please send
information.  Thank you

			
					sincerely

					John Foster

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #562
********************************
