To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #564


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 17 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 564

Re: Red Inner Fenders
Re: Leaky valve cover gaskets....
Re: Axle Code
Weekend news
RE: warning lite
Re: Weekend news
455/parts for Sale DC area
Halls?
Quad4
Re: New York
New Olds concept car?
Re: New York
Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator
Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date
Quad 4 applications
Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS
Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date
AeroTech Poster For Sale (3/17)
Re: Smog pump on '66 dynamic
Re: My neighbor's 442
Re[2]: 47 olds hot rod up-date
Re[2]: Fuel Filter Replacement...
Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date
factory brochure
Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS
Sheetmetal & Carb Question
When is Spring Carlisle?
Re: looking for parts (64 F85/cultass parts)
F88 for sale!
Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question
Re: Junkyard Idiots
Re: Junkyard Idiots
Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator
New Mail Address
RE: 1956  W/S wiper conversion
Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator
Re: [Fwd: Quad 4 applications]
Re: factory brochure
Re: F88 for sale!
Re: PST front end kit
Re: 1956 Intake Manifold Swap
Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator
Re: F88 for sale!
Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question
Re: When is Spring Carlisle?
1901 Curved Dash Olds
Re: Self exiting internal regulator
Mondello 307 Buildup - Who has it?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 10:53:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Red Inner Fenders

I got my reds from Brothers Auto and they fit fine.  Took about two weeks to
get though.  Color was good.    They should certainly be good enough for your
bootleg as both Mike Fusick and Steve Kenny have them in their personal cars.
 If you want perfect buy NOS!

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 10:55:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky valve cover gaskets....

I like the fel-pro "composition" (rubber/Cork) valve cover gaskets for
sealing ability.  If I'm not going to the track, and I don't plan on opening
the engine soon, I always use the composition type.

------------------------------

From: chuck kapigian <chuck.kapigian@mhbc.org>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 11:14:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle Code

<HTML><BODY>
Matthew Mayer wrote:&nbsp;

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Matthew Mayer wrote:
<BR><I>&gt;</I>
<BR><I>&gt; chuck kapigian wrote:</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt;</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt; I was wondering if anybody has knowledge of this axle code
{ 2 AF O 070</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt; }. It is from an '83 Hurst/Olds. I have a Chassis Service
Manual for all</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt; '83 Oldsmobiles but it is not in there. It displays three
pages of</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt; charts of different varieties, but not the code I posses.
Thanks</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt;</I>
<BR><I>&gt; &gt; -Chuck</I>
<BR><I>&gt; Chuck,</I>
<BR><I>&gt;&nbsp; I checked both my '82 and '86 manuals and can't find any
refence to a 2</I>
<BR><I>&gt; AF...but then they didn't make the H/O either of those years
either...</I> <BR><I>&gt; maybe someone has an '84 manual they can check??</I>
<BR><I>&gt;</I> <BR><I>&gt; --Matt Mayer</I> <BR><I>&gt; '86 442</I>
<BR>Chuck, <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; duh, I realized I had never checked my Haynes
manual that covers <BR>basically everything from 74 - 88 (to some degree at
least...) it says <BR>the AF axle is a 3.08 non-locking used in 1977.&nbsp; Of
course I said the <BR>book covers later years to some degree...which general
means it was <BR>written in about 1980/81 and then had only minor
revisions/additions <BR>after that....so it is possible the AF was used after
1977, they just <BR>didn't bother to revise the axle code list... <BR>
<BR>Hope this helps some more... <BR> <BR>---Matt <BR>'86 442 <BR>-- <BR>
<BR>Kelly B. Mayer <BR>Northwestern University, Evanston, IL.&nbsp;&nbsp; USA
<BR>kma224@lulu.acns.nwu.edu </BLOCKQUOTE> &nbsp;Matt,
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks for
looking that up. My book also has AF's in it, but it has a 5AF as being 3:73:1
7.5&quot; open diff. It doesn't mention 2AF. Thanks for your input. <BR>

</BODY>
</HTML>

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 11:14:27 -0400
Subject: Weekend news

Hi all,

This weekend I saw a 64? Cutlass/F85 for sale at $1,500.  It was a 2
door (coupe?/sedan?) and I believe the color was a dark greenish color.
If this car was a 442, would their be any indicators I should have been
looking for?  The body seemed in pretty good shape.

News on the accident front:
  I got a copy of the accident report and found errors in it.  Now the
report is being reworked.  Hopefully they will get the information
correct.

Later...
Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 11:35:00 -0400
Subject: RE: warning lite

Tom- the "check engine lite' w/ the warning chime is odd. the warning chime
usually means a low oil pressure of an over heating problem. Check this first.
If you take a small piece of thin whire(about 3") and strip back the ends
to make a jumper and go up under the dash and locate the diag. connector.
It usually has a black plastic cover it. It should be right above the right
knee as you sit in the car. Hook this jumper across the top 2 right terminals
and turn on the ignition key (do not start) The check engine will flash out
the problem in 'moose code' like flashes. The first code will be a 1 then 2
flash three times. The next code is the actual problem. It will flash it out
3 times. Get back and I will give you the meaning of the code stored.
FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955..
         65 El Camino.......

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 12:04:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Weekend news

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> This weekend I saw a 64? Cutlass/F85 for sale at $1,500.  It was a 2
> door (coupe?/sedan?) and I believe the color was a dark greenish color.
> If this car was a 442, would their be any indicators I should have been
> looking for?  The body seemed in pretty good shape.

I'm not really familiar with the early '60s, so correct me if I'm wrong.
The 442 badge would be on the front of the fender (forward of the wheel
well).  The air cleaner would be orange and the decal would have three
concentric circles (442 tricolors) with each containing one of the 442
numerals.  The car would have a 330 c.i. engine with a 4 bbl, 4 speed
manual transmission (automatic _not_ available in '64) and dual exhaust
(hence 442).  There were only about 2500(?) produced, so the chance of
this being one is slim.

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: Matthew Butler <matthewbutler@oscsystems.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 12:25:10 -0400
Subject: 455/parts for Sale DC area

Howdy All,

I have a 455 that has been in a boat for one season that I am considering
replacing with a blown Chevy.  I know that you all might be cursing my
name right now, but the engineers at Olds just didn't make the 455 for
really big horsepower, that the average person can afford anyway.

So here is what I have:

- - 68 455 Block (Best block can accept the most bore.  0.030 right now.)
- - TRW High compression forged pistons
- - Mondello Restrictors
- - N Crank (Best crank beside the toronado Forged)
- - C Heads(Harden Exhaust seats, Bronze valve guides)
- - Torker Intake
- - Offy Tunnel Ram Intake
- - Mallory Dual Point Distributer
- - Four point motor mounts for Jet boat
- - Hardin Marine "Log" exhaust.

If you have a jet boat and want Olds power in it, this is a great motor.  I
currently have a 12 qt oil pain with dual remote oil filters and a oil cooler
on the engine.  I doubt that the engine would show any wearing.  If you
are interested, give me a call (301) 428-6894 or e-mail me.

I won't sell the heads or block seperately, the engine comes in one piece.
 I will part with the intakes or distributor.

Thanks,

Matt Butler

------------------------------

From: bryceman@442.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 12:39:25 -0400
Subject: Halls?

>OK everybody, I don't want to start out everyone's Monday with bummer news,
>after all, most of us are still recovering from the Hall's information we
>received, but I've heard the following and want to know if there's truth to
>it or not.

What was the big news about Hall's ?   I must have missed it.

           Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '72 Cutlass Convertible
            Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:25:02 -0400
Subject: Quad4

How much could one hop-up the power level of a Quad4 before one has to
worry about the bottom end, like the main bearing area of the block, the
connecting rods, etc?
I know many of these Quad4's will frequently be run
to 7,000rpm or more(during a stoplight race), so I'm wondering how well
they'll hold up when they are  made to put out a lot more power than they
originally did.

         Jim Townsend

         '90 Calais w/HO Quad4

------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:45:40 -0400
Subject: Re: New York

In a message dated 97-03-14 11:19:39 EST, you write:

<< What area are
 you in??  Maybe I can make a suggestion or two... >>

i live in flushing queens near queens college...

------------------------------

From: Daniel Houlton <tc75918@hpr169.mdhc.mdc.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:45:04 -0400
Subject: New Olds concept car?

Hi all,

Was thumbing through Motor Trend at the news stand this weekend.  They
had a picture of an Olds concept car.  I forget what they called it.

It's a front and side shot.  Front end is very Aurora-ish and the body
is a two-door about the size of an f-body it looks like.  Doesn't say
anything about the engine or drive line.

Looks way cool.  Take a look...

- --Dan

------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:48:34 -0400
Subject: Re: New York

In a message dated 97-03-15 01:23:16 EST, you write:

<<  Where is the New York area. >>
i live in flushing queens near queens college...i hope this will narrow it
down...

- -------------------------
junior627@aol.com
Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
1985 Delta 88
V6 231 3.8 L Rwd.
- ---------------------------

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:48:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator

On Mon, 17 Mar 1997, Robert J. Barry wrote:

> Hmmm, there was a diagram posted on how to take an external regulator, and
> jumper the internals so that you could use an internally-regulated
> alternator without cutting any other wires. That must be in the archives,
> but I couldn't begin to guess where; it was nearly a year ago, at least
though. > > Is the person who posted that still here? I remember it was one
of the more > electronically-adept guys on the list (not me, that's for sure).


   That was me, I belive.  The page is on a web site somewhere, but here
goes again:


Converting externally regulated GM alternators (pre-'71) to internally
regulated post-71 alternators is a relativly easy affair.   This is also a
necessasary conversion before/during a HEI or other electronic igniton
conversion.    Also nice if you get stuck in the middle of nowhere
and need parts --  10/12SI units are much more common these days...

Once you've done it, you'll never drive another car with a vibratior
regulator and points....

Some BACKGROUND info:

GM Internally regulated units are broken down into 2 models for our purposes,
the 10SI and the 12SI.  Both can be used interchangably in most cases,
and both use identical hookups.

The 10SI is the same physical size as your old alternator.   It looks rather
simular, except the back is more closed, and the two connectors are
horizontal instead of vertical.  This unit usually has a steel fan.
They are rated from 42 amps to 63 amps as a stock unit.  The
rating is stamped on the case below the mounting ear.

The 12SI is a higher output version found on many mid-80's cars.  It is
easily identifable by its slightly larger case, and a PLASTIC fan.   This
unit will usually bolt in wherever a 10SI will fit.   This does not look
as close to your old alternator, but it does put out 85 amps at full load
and has a increased output at idle.   Note that many of these units had
*METRIC* mounting holes.   Also note that the 12SI's from GM FWD cars look
the same, but will not mount as well.   Look under the hood of just about
any 82-87 GM with a Olds 307 and you'll find one of these.

If you want a *REAL* wiring diagram, look up one for like a '76 Cutlass.


HOOKUPS:

    Either alternator will bolt in place of your existing unit.  You may need
to "turn" the case to get the 2 wire connector to be accessable on your
specific engine.

    Assuming you pull the alternator from a junk car, make sure to cut the
two prong connector for the regulator from the harness.  Otherwise, pick
up a connector at the auto parts store.  Sometimes you have to buy a "harness
extender" to get it.

EASY WAY:

    The battery cable goes to the BAT post on the new alternator.

    Terminal #1 goes to a switched 12-volt source.   A cheap-n-dirty way
    to accompish this AND to retain operation of the charge light is to
    run a wire from the #1 terminal of the new alternator to the #4 position
    of the harness connector on the old external regulator.

    MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE REGULATOR!

    Terminal #2 goes to the battery.  Easiest hookup is to jump it directly
    to the BAT terminal of the alternator.

    This is the easy-but-ugly way to do the conversion.


FANCY WAY:

    OK, you said you wanted to retain the external regulator look.  No prob!

    First, remove the old (or use a spare for practice) regulator from the
    car.  Remove the cover plate.   Here's your goal:

       Jumper terminal F and terminal 3 together
       Jumper terminal 2 and terminal 4 toegther

ARTWORK:
                            TOP (DOWN) VIEW
                     ----------------------------
                     |                          |
                     |                          |
                     |  10 ga. jumper           |
                     |  -------------           |
                     |  |           |           |
                     |_ F ___ 2 ___ 3 ___ 4 ____|
        Latch  ---->    *     *     *     *
                              |___________|
                              10 ga. jumper

    1. Make sure they do not ground anywhere, or are connected in any way.
    2. Make sure to cut the resistors off the back of the regulator!
    3. Check and double check that these are the only connections made!

ON THE ALTERNATOR:

    Step 1:   Remove the wires from the plug connector on the 10/12SI unit.
              This can be done with a pin or small screwdriver to relase
              the tab that hold the connectors in the plastic shell.  If you
              want to cheat, just cut the wires off the old connector and
              replace "splice" for "insert" in steps 2 and 3 below.   ;^)

    Step 2:   Remove the wire from the old alternator connector that went to
              the F terminal.  It should (usually?) be BLUE or GREEN.  Insert
              this wire in the new connector so it connects to the #2
              terminal of the new alternator.

    Step 3:   Repeat step 2 for the other wire; the wire for the old R
              terminal goes to the #1 terminal on the 10/12SI unit.  This
              is usually a WHITE wire.

    You may find that the old terminals are corroded or burned.  Now's a darn
    good time to replace them.

CHECKOUT:

    Fire up the car.   The alternator should start charging immediately if
    you've hooked up everything correctly.   If it does not, here's my
    checklist, in order:

    1.   Connector on the new alternator is secure *AND* making good contact.
    If you used your old terminals then this is probably the bad point.

    2.   Check for +12 volts at terminal #2 and BAT with the ignition OFF.

    3.   Check that the generator light works.

    4.   Check for +12 at both terminals on the harness with the harness
    disconnected from the regulator.

    5.   Email me and I'll try and help.

NOTES:

    I've done this swap several times.  I didn't come up with the "fancy" way
until after I had *WAY* to much time on my hands and had nothing else to
do...  The first way works fine and I use it on my beater cars.  The second
method works nice for a non-100-point resto vehicle.  Heck, it's fooled more
than a few guys around here.

DISCLAIMER:

    I have never done this swap on a car with factory guages (amp or volt),
but I can't really see any reason *WHY* that would present a problem.  You
might want to also consider putting in a heavier wire from the alternator to
the battery if you're going to run a 12SI.  I cooked my 10ga wire at one
point.   They make conversions to convert a 12SI to a 120 amp alternator
if you *REALLY* need the juice.   Of course, just be careful when doing *ANY*
kind of wiring work in your car.  Use common sense; don't splice the BAT
wire with lousy crimp connectors - SOLDER THEM!   Dirty connections make
heat - CLEAN THEM.   I've seen really nice cars trashed with bad wiring work,
or worse - wiring fires.   <Steping off soapbox now>

OTHER:

    Keep in mind I'm the same guy does electronic ignition conversions by
using the points to trigger a Mopar spark box.   Sacrilidge?  ;^>    Next
thing to figure out is how to make the new CS-series GM alternators work
on these old cars.

    Anyone need a schematic for the GM hot-starter-solenoid fix?


More (really bad) Ascii Art:
                                   (WHITE wire)
           |------------------- To R terminal of old alternator harness
           |    |-------------- To F terminal of old alternator harness
      - - -|- - |- - -             (BLUE or GREEN wire)
    -      *    *      -
  -        1    2        -      Back view of 10/12SI
 -   *                    -
  -   BAT --------------------- Same connection as old alternator
    -                   -
      - - - - - - - - -


- --> Robert Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com
- --> '71 Olds Cutlass Convertible 350/T400/2.78 Posi (work in progress)
- --> '88 Plymouth Grand Fury 318/TF727/3.23 Posi (ex highway patrol car)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 05:52:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date

     Don't use the 307 intake.  It has teeny-tiny ports, and while it will
     physically bolt up to your 350, it won't work well since the ports
     won't match up at all.  The 307 would be a better choice, unless it's
     from a roller-cammed 307 ('85-up).  A 350 4-bbl manifold or an
     Edelbrock performer would be slightly better, but perhaps not better
     enough to justify the cost and effort.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: 47 olds hot rod up-date Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/16/97 9:34 PM

also...  I have an intake and carb. from both a 307 and also 260 motor.
the 307 is equipped w/ a 4 barrel, the 260 with a 2 barrel.
What is the difference in power, gas milage, better for towing (my 48
olds), and just has better "guts"???

thanks in advance.
- --jj


------------------------------

From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:13:31 -0400
Subject: Quad 4 applications

Anyone have an idea what the heaviest vehicle a Quad 4 would be happy in?
How about if there is any way to bolt one to a conventional (RWD)
transmission?

Just thinking out loud....

Thanks,

Terrill

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:19:19 -0400
Subject: Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

In a message dated 97-03-16 10:04:14 EST, you write:

<<
 The reports on the new M*libu/Cutlass have all been favourable.  One
 popular comment was that the styling has an 'import' flavour.  Although
 the latter trait isn't desirable to many on this list, the Cutlass
 is still a highly competitive mid-size sedan.  Although this is a
 'new' model, many components, like the drivetrain, are carry-overs, so
 reliability should not be a concern.  Have you test-driven a new Cutlass?
 What are your initial impressions?? >>

After the first sighting of a picture of the Cutlass, I first thought it
looked like a Mitsubish Gallant in a way (ok, so maybe it looks alot like
one).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:15:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date

- ----------
> From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 47 olds hot rod up-date
> Date: Sunday, March 16, 1997 11:15 PM
>
>
> also...  I have an intake and carb. from both a 307 and also 260 motor.
> the 307 is equipped w/ a 4 barrel, the 260 with a 2 barrel.
> What is the difference in power, gas milage, better for towing (my 48
> olds), and just has better "guts"???
>
Use the 307 intake and carb. The 260 has smaller intake ports and although
it will fit it wont run near as well  . The 4bbl carb will provide as good
or better mileage as the 2bbl and have more power for passing ect.
Walter

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:20:37 -0400
Subject: AeroTech Poster For Sale (3/17)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to
sell:

1988 Oldsmobile Aerotech showroom poster.  "World's Fastest Moving
Car Company" with listing of records set at Ft. Stockton and a
straight-on picture of AJ Foyt driving the car.  About 38 x 50
inches.  Very good condition.  $25.00, including shipping to
addresses in the United States. (3/17/97)

Please notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to
purchase this item or if you would like additional information about
it.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:14:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Smog pump on '66 dynamic

Just a quick question that maybe someone can help me with:

I'm in CA looking at a 1966 dynamic 88 w/ the 425 and TH400
It's missing the smog pump, but the "dealer" who's selling it says its
perfectly legal. How can I find out what state the car was 1st sold in?


          Is the smog pump missing, as in it was originally installed
          and has been removed, or was the car never equipped with
          one?  Only Oldsmobiles originally sold in California in
          66-67 had the smog pumps, 49 state cars did not.  If the car
          originally had the pump (officially, the Air Injection
          Reactor or A.I.R. system), there should be plugs in the
          cylinder heads above the exhaust ports.  In that case, the
          car is not legal for California and must have the equipment
          reinstalled.  If the car is a 49 state car which has been
          brought into CA, these bosses on the cylinder head above the
          exhaust ports will not be drilled.  If this is the case, the
          car should be CA legal with the appropriate NOX device.  (I
          know, I know...common sense is not a CARB hiring criteria).

          BTW, if the car does not have A.I.R., it is clearly _not_ an
          original California car.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:16:26 -0400
Subject: Re: My neighbor's 442

Hi all,

I forgot to mention this morning that my neighbor who has a 72 442
sitting on the street collecting spider webs is going to keep the
car.  The young kid (usually anyone under 30) ;-) said he blew the
engine up (yes a 455) and is going to restore it.  It is a Saturn
Gold 2 door coupe.  Needs some body work, new tires.  I tried to
buy it, however, he is enamored with it.  I can't understand why. :-)
Maybe once he sees how much it is going to cost, maybe he sell it
to me.  I hope I hope I hope.  Ok that is enough.  No more salivating
paleez....

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 06:29:45 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: 47 olds hot rod up-date

     Uh, sorry.  I meant to say don't use the _260_ intake.


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/17/97 10:22 AM


     Don't use the 307 intake.  It has teeny-tiny ports, and while it will

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:37:04 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel Filter Replacement...

Sometimes you need a small, repeat very small, application of a vice grip, to
break the seal. Use a rag or something to protect the soft threads of that
nice 442 fuel line nut. Go slow. Put a very small amount of anti sieze on the
threads when reinstalling. Good luck!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

Last weekend I tried to replace the fuel filter on my '86 442 / VIN 9
307...unfortunately the fuel line nut is frozen in there pretty good. My
5/8" box wrench (I think it was 5/8's...) didn't seem to fit the nut to
well...is this a metric nut??  Or do I need a special wrench that grips
more than two surfaces??
Thanks!

- ---Matt
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com
'86 442

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 10:35:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 47 olds hot rod up-date

At 12:15 AM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I was curious what to do w/ my 47 olds...  go hot rod, or origional.
[snip of rod project, frame graft, etc.]
>also...  I have an intake and carb. from both a 307 and also 260 motor.
>the 307 is equipped w/ a 4 barrel, the 260 with a 2 barrel.
>What is the difference in power, gas milage, better for towing (my 48
>olds), and just has better "guts"???

No question: use the 4-bbl over the 2-bbl. Of course, the runners on the 307
intake might be too small to make decent power on a 350, and the carb would
have to be rejetted anyway (it's a computer-controlled carb, isn't it?). I'd
say the best bet is to spring for an aftermarket carb&intake, or, barring
that, get a pre-emissions 4-bbl intake and quadrajet for a 330 or a 350. It
might cost you more to get the 307's carb working right for your 350 than to
start out with a 350 intake and carb in the first place.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:49:00 -0400
Subject: factory brochure

Hey, does anyone have a 90 Olds Cutlass Ciera factory brochure that they
wanna get a few $$ for? I am willing to pay shipping and some $$ for it.

Just a note-- for any of the non fans of the newer FWD Old's, please bear
with me. I really enjoy driving this car. One of the most favorite cars to
drive that I can remember and I have owned a lot in my 35 years.
I have a show (frame off resto L-79) El Camino a 95 Neon, a 95 Dodge Ram 4x4
v-10. Usta own a show 69 RA III 4 speed Judge, a 65 Z-16 (yes, it was real)
a 13 second FWD turbo 5 speed Talon, and an 86 Monte SS (show condition) and a
lot of other mondane cars too besides.
FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955 (every day driver)
         65 El Camino (show car, cruiser)
         95 Plymouth Neon (wifes car)
         95 Dodge Ram 4x4 v-10 (company truck)....

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:56:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

Just commenting on something...
I DO NOT like the look of the new Cutlass.  It is _VERY_ "importish" in
particular, it looks like a japanese import.  I do, however like the way
that the new 88's look (from the front anyway).  I like the 2 grill design
with its lines in the front.  Now  if they only had it in a 2 door powered
by the Aurora, and if the back end looked slightly less like a jelly
bean...

All Hail Toyo... I mean Hon... I mean Maz... I mean Oldsmobile
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ.
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get your copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

Or download a "zipped" version via FTP from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

On Mon, 17 Mar 1997 CRuper1@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 97-03-16 10:04:14 EST, you write:
>
> <<
>  The reports on the new M*libu/Cutlass have all been favourable.  One
>  popular comment was that the styling has an 'import' flavour.  Although
>  the latter trait isn't desirable to many on this list, the Cutlass
>  is still a highly competitive mid-size sedan.  Although this is a
>  'new' model, many components, like the drivetrain, are carry-overs, so
>  reliability should not be a concern.  Have you test-driven a new Cutlass?
>  What are your initial impressions?? >>
>
> After the first sighting of a picture of the Cutlass, I first thought it
> looked like a Mitsubish Gallant in a way (ok, so maybe it looks alot like
> one).
>
> Chris Ruper
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:53:58 -0400
Subject: Sheetmetal & Carb Question

Hey all,
  I'm planning on getting some fenders for my '70 4-4-2.  I was curious if
you would suggest buying them from a bone yard in Arizon or buying new??
I'm sure I can save a      bunch by buying used, and I have no problem with
that; I'd just like to hear from others who have done so.
I also have a carburetor question.  I have a Holley 650 spread bore,
mechanical secondary, carb (I don't have the model No., I'm @ work) chrome
plate looking exterior, electric choke that was taken from my dad's wrecked
79 Suburban.  Is is possible to up the CFM to roughly 800 by incresaing the
jets, and accelerator pumps??  I would like to use this carb if I can, as
it's good and FREE!

ANY thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

Steve Reed
Austin, TX
1970 4-4-2 Ragtop

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:52:00 -0400
Subject: When is Spring Carlisle?

I am still negotiating the purchase of a tired looking, but very
complete, 1970 W30.  The owner's friend (who has the car) and I have
actually begun to discuss price.  Using an intermediary sure lengthens
the process.  Then again, I've spent a year or two in the past trying to
track down the owner of a parked Olds and getting them to sell.  If I
can get the car in the next few weeks or so, I plan on parting it out
and going to Spring Carlisle with the stuff.  The car (A/T with A/C) has
all of its W30 parts present except for the red inner fenders and the
distributor.

I need to know the dates of the show and the number to call to reserve a
spot.  I, of  course, lost my brochure that I picked up at Summer
Carlisle last year.  Also, the summer event had vitually no Olds parts
at it.  I was told that the Spring Carlisle is THE one to go to.
Anybody have an opinion on this?

Thanks,
Scott Mullen
'70 442
'70 W30 for parts (maybe)

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:05:56 -0400
Subject: Re: looking for parts (64 F85/cultass parts)

I know of 2 junkyards here in GA that have 64 Oldsmobile F85/Cultasses.
One is Old Car City USA,  he has maybe 3-4 (some sedans,  some coupes,
one has a light blue interior, bench seat v6,,  I can't remember
the interior colors of the others),,  Old Car City can ship parts to
you.  His phone# is  (if you buy parts from him, tell him you heard about
them through the Internet guy in Athens Ga...)

    Old Car City USA
    PO Box 480
    White, GA 30184
    (area code 770 or 706) 974-6144

The other 64 Olds in a yard is 10miles away from me at H.L. Hodges (he doesn't
do any shipping)  and his is a creme sedan v8 auto.  It may or may
not have the console, but its a auto console if its there.  Interior, I
believe, is red,  it does have a steering wheel.  It didn't have an air
cleaner (I'm not sure if Old Car City has one or not).   If you are interested
in the steering wheel, I could see about getting it and mailing it to
you.  This one doesn't have the Cutlass trim, I believe it to be a baseline
F-85  (with the 4bbl v-8,,, a somewhat unlikey combination).

as for the 4GC carb you are looking for.  The H.L.Hodges 64 has a 4GC, however
any year 4GC will work  (lots of 60-64 fullsize GM cars came with 4GC's).

If you aren't worried about your 64 being a  100 point show car,  consider
NOT using a 4GC.  The current crop of rebuild kits are very poor (I dare you
to find a rebuild kit with a usable accelerator plugger),  they are no
fun to tune and replacement parts are junkyard items only.   The 4bbl flange
for the 4GC will accept a Carter AFB or AVS.  I replaced my 64 330's 4GC
with an Edelbrock AFB 600cfm carb and I'm very happy with it.  It has
more power and economy than the 4GC ever had.  Plus the 4GC only flows about
500cfm.    The only things that must be changed are the gas line and
the air cleaner  (the 4GC's air cleaner dia. is smaller than the standard
AFB/Holley dia,,,  I use a 14" open element bottom and the stock Air cleaner
top, so it appears to be the stock setup).

My 64 isn't 100% original, I've swapped disk brakes under the front, and
a th350 in place of the powerslide 2speed,  however my car was 100% original
when I got it 10 years ago, and I still have all the parts that came
with it (down to the hub caps and steel wheels)  So if you have any
questions about them, maybe I can help.

Doug Ahern
doug@cosmic.uga.edu

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:13:23 -0400
Subject: F88 for sale!

I was browsing through the magazine rack, and one of those
"cars for sale" magazines caught my eye because of something on the cover.
Evidentally, the original '56 F88 Golden Rocket show car is for sale.  I
didn't have time to search through the mag. for it, and they didn't have
any info. on the cover, but if anybody on the list with deep pockets is
interested, I'll try to find out where and how much.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ.
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get your copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:13:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question

As far as I know, jets only really change air/fuel mixture (this stems
from working on mikuni ski-doo carb's, the simplest & most reliable I
have known).  Isn't boring a carb reasonably inexpensive (taper boring
carbs is a common thing with ski-doo's)  Stemming from that, could a
Quadrojet be bored (I love the reliability of a quadrojet, and know of no
other brand that works for so long with no maintenance in Sunny Regina,
SK (largest varience of temperature's annualy anywhere!))

EA~

On Mon, 17 Mar 1997, Steve Reed wrote:

> Hey all,
> I also have a carburetor question.  I have a Holley 650 spread bore,
> mechanical secondary, carb (I don't have the model No., I'm @ work) chrome
> plate looking exterior, electric choke that was taken from my dad's wrecked
> 79 Suburban.  Is is possible to up the CFM to roughly 800 by incresaing the
> jets, and accelerator pumps??  I would like to use this carb if I can, as
> it's good and FREE!
>
> ANY thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!
>
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX
> 1970 4-4-2 Ragtop
>

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:19:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots

This is sad to hear about. April 1st, huh, maybe it's a joke?

I'm planning on making a trip to Hall's the weekend of the 29th, that's the
weekend after next. I don't have all the particulars yet, but if anyone is
interested in joining me, let me know. Reply to my address below.

I'll be taking the new Dakota 4x4. Ooops, now the garage is only 75% Olds.
If Olds made a pickup that was a bit larger than the S-10, and pretty close
in price, I would have gone that route. I don't have a lot of free cash
right now, but this is a major dent in Olds part availability.

I'm located 50 miles west of Chicago. Let me know. I'll post more details
later.

Bryce, do you think Hall's your typical mud swamp about this time of year?

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

  I was in Kansas recently at Halls Auto Salvage in Soldier Kansas.

  Well he is closing April 1st. He has contracted a guy to come in and crush
yes crush all those Oldsmobiles. Thousands of good usable parts gone for
good. I wish I had the ability to buy these but no way.
  Is there anybody who could or know somebody that might be interested before
the ball falls. There are 200 acres of clean land with around 3000
Oldsmobiles plus at least 2000 "other" cars.
   Or if you need something call before its too late.

    Halls Auto Salvage, Soldier Kansas.
    1-913-924-3748
     1-913-924-3315

BEFORE ITS TO THE CRUSHER

Everett Horton  OCA# 1961

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:54:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots

Nope David, unfortunately its not a joke.  One of the workers there
confirmed it.  I called by there earlier to see if he had a 1949 98 or a
1956 88 that he'd sell as either of these would be my "dream restoration".
He had some of both, but said the 98 was pretty well picked over, and his
88's were a bit rough.  If  you are going by there, I'd appreciate it if
you would check on these and see if they are at all  restoreable.  Other
cars might be nice to have, but these two are the one's I'd go through the
trouble of having trucked to Tennessee.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ.
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get your copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall



On Mon, 17 Mar 1997, David Brown wrote:

> This is sad to hear about. April 1st, huh, maybe it's a joke?
>
> I'm planning on making a trip to Hall's the weekend of the 29th, that's the
> weekend after next. I don't have all the particulars yet, but if anyone is
> interested in joining me, let me know. Reply to my address below.
>
> I'll be taking the new Dakota 4x4. Ooops, now the garage is only 75% Olds.
> If Olds made a pickup that was a bit larger than the S-10, and pretty close
> in price, I would have gone that route. I don't have a lot of free cash
> right now, but this is a major dent in Olds part availability.
>
> I'm located 50 miles west of Chicago. Let me know. I'll post more details
> later.
>
> Bryce, do you think Hall's your typical mud swamp about this time of year?
>
> David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
> ------------
>
>   I was in Kansas recently at Halls Auto Salvage in Soldier Kansas.
>
>   Well he is closing April 1st. He has contracted a guy to come in and crush
> yes crush all those Oldsmobiles. Thousands of good usable parts gone for
> good. I wish I had the ability to buy these but no way.
>   Is there anybody who could or know somebody that might be interested
before > the ball falls. There are 200 acres of clean land with around 3000 >
Oldsmobiles plus at least 2000 "other" cars. >    Or if you need something
call before its too late. > >     Halls Auto Salvage, Soldier Kansas. >
1-913-924-3748 >      1-913-924-3315 > > BEFORE ITS TO THE CRUSHER > >
Everett Horton  OCA# 1961 > > >

------------------------------

From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:59:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator

Folks,

	You can buy a GM alternator with internal regulator that just uses one
wire (the output lead that is the 10 gauage red wire that runs back to
the battery.)  The voltage regulator is an self exiting (SE) unit.  No
jumper wires is needed, no cutting of the orginal wiring harness, no
special technical knowledge is needed.  Painless!!! If you need any
information I can be reached at home in the evenings at (817) 699-7392.


				sincerely

				    John Foster

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bjbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:57:48 -0400
Subject: New Mail Address

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------5A0031AAC0A
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

- --
Hello! Sorry to bother you, but I thought you might need to know that I
just changed my e-mail address to --bjbaker@worldnet.att.net--
 Not that i expect to get alot of mail, but if you sent anything to
bradbaker@worldnet.att.net in the last week (3/6-3/13) I wouldn't have
received it. Please make a note of my new address and re-send anything
that was important, and anything that may not be, to my new address.
 Thanks for your attention. Keep those cards and letters comming!! :)

Brad (00||||00) '68 Cutlass Convertible
MailTo:bjbaker@worldnet.att.net

- --------------5A0031AAC0A
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

Message-ID: <3328E5B0.673C@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:44:16 -0800
From: Brad Baker <bjbaker@worldnet.att.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0C-WorldNet  (Win16; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: albaker@iconn.com, SirOzbo@aol.com, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca,
	NutmegDivr@aol.com, albaker@iconn.com
Subject: New Mail Address
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello! Sorry to bother you, but I thought you might need to know that I
just changed my e-mail address to bjbaker@worldnet.att.net
 Not that i expect to get alot of mail, but if you sent anything to
bradbaker@worldnet.att.net in the last week (3/6-3/13) I wouldn't have
received it. Please make a note of my new address and re-send anything
that was important, and anything that may not be, to my new address.
 Thanks for your attention. Keep those cards and letters comming!! :)

Brad (00||||00) '68 Cutlass Convertible
MailTo:bjbaker@worldnet.att.net

- --------------5A0031AAC0A--

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 16:31:02 -0400
Subject: RE: 1956  W/S wiper conversion

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC32DF.DD8F8EC0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    I have a '55 Chevy with an electric wiper motor (you could get them =
either way). I'll take a look and see what differences are apparent =
between it and my '56 Olds vacuum setup ( a '98 though, if that does =
indeed make a difference).
    None of the parts books, shop manuals, etc. show an electric wiper =
option for the '56 Olds. I've sort of wondered why it was available on =
the Chevys but not the "upscale" Olds. BUT  :
    I have a B&W copy of a little brochure entitled "Oldsmobile for =
'56", with accessories, options,upholstery, etc. It has a couple of =
pages of Factory-installed options and then ... "Dealer-Installed =
Accessories". Believe it or not, it lists "Electric Windshield Wiper". =
This accessory cost $25.00 and says "electrically powered for steady =
operation. Handy two-speed control. Blades automatically park below =
windshield when wiper is turned off."=20
    This is the only reference to electric wipers on '56 Olds I've ever =
seen. It all sounds like the operation of the Chevy, but maybe someone =
knows an old (Olds) dealer mechanic who would remember what motor they =
used.=20
    I'll let you know if anything else turns up.
                                           R.B. Short,    OKC,OK

- ----------
From: 	John Foster[SMTP:jdfoster@n-link.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, March 16, 1997 8:24 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	1956  W/S wiper conversion

Folks,

	I have a 1956 Super 88 and I am looking for a way to convert my
windshield wipers from vaccum to electric.  Are there any kits
available.  Has anyone had any success in this conversion?  Please send
information.  Thank you=20

		=09
					sincerely

					John Foster




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0qLODTO8AR4APQABAAAABQAAAFJFOiAAAAAA5jg=

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC32DF.DD8F8EC0--

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 16:35:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator

Hmmm, somehow that slipped through the cracks. Bob's explanation will be in
the next one. Sorry.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

The FAQ has a listing for externally-regulated-to-internally-regulated
alternators and says it is a good idea to make the conversion, but it
doesn't mention HOW to do it.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: The Unsilent Majority <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 16:41:05 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Quad 4 applications]

>
>Anyone have an idea what the heaviest vehicle a Quad 4 would be happy in?
>How about if there is any way to bolt one to a conventional (RWD)
>transmission?
>
well they did put them in 1990-? gran prix...i imagine they are fairly heavy!
i'm sure someone could make a trans adapter if you were really motivated
you could do it!

Jeff

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 16:46:33 -0400
Subject: Re: factory brochure

At 02:49 PM 3/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey, does anyone have a 90 Olds Cutlass Ciera factory brochure that they
>wanna get a few $$ for? I am willing to pay shipping and some $$ for it.
>
>Just a note-- for any of the non fans of the newer FWD Old's, please bear
>with me. I really enjoy driving this car. One of the most favorite cars to
>drive that I can remember and I have owned a lot in my 35 years.
>I have a show (frame off resto L-79) El Camino a 95 Neon, a 95 Dodge Ram 4x4
>v-10. Usta own a show 69 RA III 4 speed Judge, a 65 Z-16 (yes, it was real)
>a 13 second FWD turbo 5 speed Talon, and an 86 Monte SS (show condition) and
a >lot of other mondane cars too besides. >FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC
Special Edition..one of 955 (every day driver) >         65 El Camino (show
car, cruiser) >         95 Plymouth Neon (wifes car) >         95 Dodge Ram
4x4 v-10 (company truck)....


Frank

        I have a factory sales brochure for your car. Email your address to
me and I'll send it to you.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 17:03:50 -0400
Subject: Re: F88 for sale!

I was browsing through the magazine rack, and one of those
"cars for sale" magazines caught my eye because of something on the cover.
Evidentally, the original '56 F88 Golden Rocket show car is for sale.

     This was actually in Hemmings some months ago.  I don't recall the
     price, but something like $125K sticks in my mind.  The other dream
     Olds which was in Hemmings within the last few months was the McKee
     Can-Am racer with the twin-turbo injected all-aluminum 455 Olds motor
     (maybe that was the one that was $125K).

     Unfortunately, I can't afford either one :(

     Prior to seeing the real F88 offered for sale, I had long contemplated
     building a replica using a 55 Corvette kit car body as a starting
     point.  Of course, I'd probably end up spending more than the $125K by
     the time I was done building a replica... ;)

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:42:55 -0400
Subject: Re: PST front end kit

>PST polygraphite front end kit.
>> I am thinking about going throught the front end on my '69 442. Does
>>anyone have any experience good or bad with this company and/or its
>>product?  How hard of a job is it?
>
>any insight is much appreciated
>
>patrickd@wwnet.com

PST polygraphite bushings are manufactured by Energy Suspensions here in
CA. Energy Suspensions does not sell direct, only thru re-sellers. PST has
about the best prices tho due to volume sales. PST also has the advantage
of selling packages, of which the E.S. bushings are just a part.

I installed their bushings (E.S.) in my rear lower control arms (1965 98).
The documentation is good, and you can actually get someone on the phone if
you have a question!!!

I am planning to use their products on the front suspension when I figure
out what parts I need...

Good Luck!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 17:46:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 1956 Intake Manifold Swap

According to the information I have, it might. You really need to take a
number of critical measurements to make sure. Probably at a minimum, front
bolt hole diagonally across the valley area, to the rear bolt hole, and
same for other diagonal. Diagonal measurement of front runner to other side
rear runner. Compare to same measurement taken from heads.

If your engine is apart, it's definetely harder. Good luck.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- ------------

Folks,

 Will a intake manifold from a 1957 371 cu in engine(tri-carb)
fit a 1956 324 cu in engine?  Thanks for any help.

    sincerely,

        John Foster

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 17:57:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Converting to internally regulated alternator

At 02:59 PM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>	You can buy a GM alternator with internal regulator that just uses one
>wire (the output lead that is the 10 gauage red wire that runs back to
>the battery.)  The voltage regulator is an self exiting (SE) unit.  No
>jumper wires is needed, no cutting of the orginal wiring harness, no
>special technical knowledge is needed.  Painless!!! If you need any

Hmmm, what do you do about the wires that are _currently_ running (oops, no
pun intended) through the existing external voltage regulator, as well as
the two wires that were attached to the old alternator? Can you just leave
those dangling? I suppose that might not be a good idea...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: FBrussee@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:03:57 -0400
Subject: Re: F88 for sale!

the f88 is in Deals on Wheels for $425000!  perhaps the decimal point is in
the wrong place.

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 17:57:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question

At 01:53 PM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>  I'm planning on getting some fenders for my '70 4-4-2.  I was curious if
>you would suggest buying them from a bone yard in Arizon or buying new??
>I'm sure I can save a      bunch by buying used, and I have no problem with
>that; I'd just like to hear from others who have done so.

Well, rust-free I've seen fenders for as low as $250 used. NOS will run
around $500 each. What shape is the rest of the car in?

>I also have a carburetor question.  I have a Holley 650 spread bore,
>mechanical secondary, carb (I don't have the model No., I'm @ work) chrome
>plate looking exterior, electric choke that was taken from my dad's wrecked
>79 Suburban.  Is is possible to up the CFM to roughly 800 by incresaing the
>jets, and accelerator pumps??  I would like to use this carb if I can, as
>it's good and FREE!

You can use that carb, but it might not (probably won't) run any better than
the stock quadrajet (which flows between 750 and 850 cfm). No, as others
have pointed out, you can't increase the CFM via jets and accelerator pumps.
Nor is boring out the throttle body cheap or easy, as it might be on some
other types of carbs.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 17:57:56 -0400
Subject: Re: When is Spring Carlisle?

At 12:52 PM 3/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am still negotiating the purchase of a tired looking, but very
>complete, 1970 W30.  The owner's friend (who has the car) and I have
[snip]
>can get the car in the next few weeks or so, I plan on parting it out
>and going to Spring Carlisle with the stuff.  The car (A/T with A/C) has
>all of its W30 parts present except for the red inner fenders and the
>distributor.

If it is so complete, why would you want to part it out? Well, aside from
the profit motive, there aren't any more original W-30's being built, and
this would be one less for posterity (though I suppose you could argue that
its spirit would live on in the fake W-30 that could be built from its
parts... but then what's the point).

Wouldn't an entire car be worth more than the parts alone, especially since
some of the W-30 specific stuff is gone already? After all, what can you
sell the shell of stripped W-30 442 for?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:25:41 -0400
Subject: 1901 Curved Dash Olds

Forwarding to the group.  Reply directly to Steve as I don't
think he is the newsgroup.
Brad

- -------------Forwarded Message-----------------

From:	Steve Stube, INTERNET:shstube@alpha.delta.edu
Date:	3/17/97  1:47 PM
RE:	1901 Curved Dash Olds
Sender: shstube@alpha.delta.edu
From: Steve Stube <shstube@alpha.delta.edu>
To: 76062.3042@compuserve.com
Subject: 1901 Curved Dash Olds
X-Url: http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/ocachapters.html

Is this Brad, I'm looking for information on 1901 CDO - construction
prints, parts, basket case car, owner e-mail pal. Can you help,
Steve

------------------------------

From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:34:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Self exiting internal regulator

John Foster wrote:
>
> Sir,
>
>         The loose wires can be taped off and secured to the existing
harness. Hot rodders like this kind of alternator, because of fewer wires
showing, and ease of installation. > >
sincerely > >                                    John Foster

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:25:36 -0400
Subject: Mondello 307 Buildup - Who has it?

All,
I remember some time back that someone had  the 6/90 issue of Popular Hot
Rodding that had the Mondello builds the 307 small block article. Also if
anyone has the 8-9/87 PHR w/ the Cutlass SS/GT K sportsman car articles, I'd
like a copy of this also.  Whoever had it I'll pay costs to get a photocopy of
it. Looking through my archives and comparing it to the list in the AWESOME
Oldsmobile FAQ I've got a few additional articles of interest

Date	Magazine	Article
8/87	CC	1g Street Machine - Ultimate Handling Tricks for GM 
G-body
		(Spicer Engineering "Darth Vader" car)
11/87	PHR	Goodbye to the 442 Olds
4/88	CC	1964-74 Olds 442 - The Rocket's Red Glare
2/89	CA	1964-84 Oldsmobile 442: Anti-Boredom Machine" (Cover)
9/92	PHR	Totally Stroked - Mondello Strikes Again with a 486 or
		493 Olds Giant
2/93	PMR&P	442 Production Figures
2/93	PMR&P	Rocket Science, Hot W-30 Engine Rebuild
2/96	CA	1954-56 Olds: Sneaked Styling (Cover)
12/96	CA 	The Slimmer, Trimmer Oldsmobiles of 1961-64 (Cover)

CA - Collectible Automobile
CC - Car Craft
PHR - Poplar Hot Rodding
PMR&P - Petersen's Musclecar Restoration & Performance

Thanks in advance

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson    OCA#18984
| | | 1987 442 W-42 (Hopefully in primer today)
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
 ---  76062.3042@compuserve.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #564
********************************
