To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #566


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 18 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 566

Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"
Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"
RE:Subject: Quad 4 applications
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems
Re: Exhaust Tips
rare 'new' Olds
Re[2]: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
Re: 307 OLDS INFO - Supercharging?
PARTS SWAPPING
Re: Junkyard Idiots
Re: 307 OLDS INFO
Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability
pictures
REO Dumptruck?
Re: 307 OLDS INFO - Supercharging? -Reply
`67 Cutlass Supreme lives!
1974 Chassis Service Manual For Sale (3/18)
Re: rare 'new' Olds
Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability
Car Records
dash painting
Re: dash painting
Re: dash painting
RE: Insurance
Anyone in the DC, VA area
Club for 73-77 Cutlass
IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Re: Insurance
Radiator interchange
Dr. Bob's Pinto
Re: THE ELUSIVE 455 FORGED CRANK...
Back Again
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!
Our 66 Delta
RE: rear-end id. needed
Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)
RE: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS
Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"
Water Marks
Re: dash painting
Wanted: 1956  STD XMSN Parts
Re: 69 H/O Rear Code
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª565
Seats... FOR SALE!
Re: Water Marks
Re: dash painting
Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability
Re: PST front end kit
Re: Insurance
Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:25:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"

At 10:00 AM 3/18/97 -0500, you wrote:
>R. Barry wrote:
>>If it is so complete, why would you want to part it out?
>
>If you could see the car, you would know why I would part it out.  The
>body is pretty tired, and it is not something I'm interested in
>restoring.  My next project will be a Toronado.  The W30 in question is

Well, since you're going to be working on a Toronado... ;)

>a battered, very light yellowish-white (Parchment?), which is a hideous
>color, and it has a tannish-color vinyl top.  If I restored it, I would
>never paint it the original color, so there would go its value as a show
>car.   I was amazed that it is relatively complete, considering 160K
>miles are on the clock.   I already own a '70, so some of the parts on

I know I've asked myself this question a number of times with cars that I've
had that were kind of borderline (were you here for my public musings about
whether to save that beat-up '72 Vista Cruiser about this time last year?).
I suppose that "parts-car" status varies as you go around the country; I
cringe when I hear about CA cars, no rust, complete, that are being parted
out because they're a little "rough" or they're missing something simple to
replace (like that 442 missing its rear axle, that was crushed... sniff).
Around here, if one-half of the floor remains and the rust holes around the
windows are not *too* large, then it's considered a *good* candidate for a
resto project (it's pretty much assumed that any project will require new
quarters and fenders, some window-channel patching and most likely some
floor patching).

If, on the other hand, the frame has been bent, the firewall is twisted or
cut out, someone has cut out the rear seat and made a pickup out of it
(someone did this to a Cutlass S around here...), or the car is not all that
desireable (i.e. a green 1970 6-cyl F-85 4-door with AM radio), then it's
usually passed over.

>this car would go into my inventory (particularly the mint OAI hood,
>which appears to be flawless) for spares, and some would have to go on
>the block to pay for the car. So what am I supposed to do, part out my
>very solid  '70 442 to afford the restoration of a dented/trashed
>interior/slightly rusty (but still complete) '70 W30?

Hardly. I'm just regretting the loss of another original W-30. Of course,
parting out that particular W-30 isn't going to send the world of classic
Olds musclecars into a tailspin. Olds produced a few thousand of them, and
I'm sure that there's still a thousand of them around.

In the less rarified air of the Toronado world, I'm buying a '68 Toronado
that I may be parting out this summer: I can use the engine in my SX, and
stockpile the other parts for my '69 Toro. The '68 has ripped upholstery and
door panels, a dented fender, no exhaust, a peeling roof and the standard
rust in the quarters and fenders, plus it doesn't have many unusual options,
and it is not a highly-desireable color. It hasn't run in years, and I'm
only paying $300 for the beast.

Still, it's about the only complete Toronado that I've seen around here, and
I see NO running Toronados of this vintage at all (aside from mine, and one
my friend owns). If I part it out, nobody else is going to be able to own or
appreciate this fine example of Oldsmobile engineering, or dedicate their
time to restoring it.

It's a matter of little accumulations. My parting this Toro, or your parting
that 442, is not going to destroy the Olds world. How long will it be,
however, before we have a handful of ª1 showcars, all in beautiful condition
and all with lots of spare parts, but no real critical mass of Olds that
serve as daily drivers?

Maybe this is inevitable in the next 20-30 years anyhow; prices will climb,
and fewer people will be able to afford to drive these old cars that they'd
like to drive. The very fact that a ª5 W-30 would cost $3000 demonstrates
that this is the trend. Perhaps it is a good thing if only those people who
could afford to do things right could afford to own musclecars. I dunno...

>>Well, aside from the profit motive, there aren't any more original W-30's
>being built, >and this would be one less for posterity.
>
>Ooh, I feel like I'm being vilified here.  Remember that it's a car, not
>the Mona Lisa.  Like performing triage, this one may have to be declared

Whoops, didn't mean that to come across as harsh as it apparently did.
[though I'd rather own a W-30 than the Mona Lisa...] It's a judgment call,
based on the condition and desireability of the car, your finances, etc. I
just thought that a W-30 car with the low initial investment price might
sell for more than the parts alone, and you could buy the parts from a car
that has already been parted out.

I'm really not trying to tell you what to do with either your money or this
car. These are just things that have been running through my head as I've
seen mention on this list of other cars being parted out and crushed (i.e.
how many W-30's are we going to lose as potential projects when Hall's yard
gets smashed and turned into fodder for a chain-link fence manufacturer...)

>beyond saving so that I can spend my time on my current '70, which has a
>better chance of surviving for posterity.  If I don't get the car, then
>odds are it'll go to the bone yard.  If you want to buy it outright,
>email me (r_mullen@merck.com) with your offer.  Or, just send $10,000
>and I'll restore the car for posterity.

Of course, if the choice is parting it or sending it to the boneyard, then
part it out by all means.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:44:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"

Re:to part or not to part.  PART IT OUT!  Many GENUINE high quality W cars
may be completed as a result.  Fake, bootleg and just plain fraudulent cars
don't add anything to this hobby but fakers, fraudulent owners, and bad
blood.    People who build  W-machine converts from hardtops (etc) only
detract from the value of the legitimate cars.  Many owners of genuine cars
without factory documentation are suffering at the hands of all the FRAUDS
and FAKES.  There are so many fake W-cars made from hardtop parts cars that I
would never pay any real money for a W machine, of any kind, that did not
have factory documentation.  Conversly,  think of all the genuine  W-machines
that could be completed if it were not for the bootleggers, frauds, and
dreamers using hard to find genuine W-machine parts in an attempt to fool
themselves and others.    It is unfortunate that I have to add that due (in
part) to all the fakes, frauds and bootlegs, this machine is worth more apart
than together.  In my not so humble opinion,  the hobby will be much better
off with two or three more genuine W-machines being completed than with one
more bootleg built by some fool in a ridiculous attempt defraud all of "the
experts."  Stepping down off my soapbox now.....

------------------------------

From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:52:10 -0400
Subject: RE:Subject: Quad 4 applications

> Many people have swapped a Quad 4 into a Fiero.  I personally had thought
> that a, pardon my bad language here, Ch*vy Ch*v*tte with a 200+HP Quad 4
> would make a killer sleeper! ;-)  Put a five speed behind the Quad4 and a
> F*rd Nine Inch rear in it! Wow... I bet that would go like mad!  I really
> don't know how heavy a car it could live in.  I do know that it was put into
> some of the later model FWD Cutlass Supremes.
>

Cecil

I had been wondering about dropping a Quad 4 into cars like an early 3rd
Gen F-body or a G-body (and variants.....Quad 4 El Camino anyone?).  Who
knows....maybe this will encourage me to enter the present and try out a
FWD project next!

Terrill

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:43:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems

>Thumping:  Check your transmission mount.  If it starts separating, it
>can cause the sound you describe when the tail of the transmission and
>/or the front u-joint hits the hump.

Hey, that sounds familiar. Our '72 LeMans had its rear support crossmember
(what the trans tail sits on) rot out where the crossmember meets the side
rails. Might want to check the ends on yours and see if something's let
go. (Installation wasn't too horrible; I think it was a bolt-in once the
old bolts were persuaded out...)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:58:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust Tips

Dan- You can order the walker tips at any auto parts store.  Just ask for
Walker ª35614.  I must warn you however that the quality approaches
junk...very poor chrome,  very poor shape, and tooling marks on the inside.
 I would recommend them for DRIVERS only.  If you want the best tip
available, buy the tips Brothers Auto (1-800-442-PART ) sells.  See
HTTP://www.thehost.com/Brothers   They are made of an alloy called INCONEL,
commonly used in helicopter and airplane exhaust.  Inconel has a very high
nickel content so it takes chrome beautifully.  The walkers are made of cheap
mild steel and will burn off in two-three years of driving.    The inconel
tips will last forever.  I have a pair with slightly over 40,000 miles and
they still look like new.  Brothers only charges $49 a set for these and I
bet you can't get a pair of the low quality Walkers for that price.  Hope
this helps!

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:57:00 -0400
Subject: rare 'new' Olds

I was over in Jersey at a used car lot and saw a RARE Olds. It was a 92
Cutlass Supreme (not the Ciera A body) 4 door powered by a 3.4 dohc
*5 speed* Never even knew they came so eqipped. It was red w/ gray leather
interior. It had 69k miles on it and they wnated $9000 for it. Too high IMHO.
It was weird to see a clutch in such a car.
Betcha only about a 100 or so were made like that.




FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955 (every day driver)
         65 El Camino (show car, cruiser)
         95 Plymouth Neon (wifes car)
         95 Dodge Ram 4x4 v-10 (company truck)....

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 05:12:01 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

     I had a car once with a similar problem.  I checked the vacuum
     advance, timing, and replaced the carb.  No luck.  Finally I noticed
     that one of the springs on the centrifugal advance in the distributor
     was broken.  This caused the centrifugal advance to fling out as soon
     as I stepped on the gas, and caused the car to lug.  A simple, if not
     stupid problem, but you might want to check it out.

     Tom.

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping
Problems (long-ish) Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:
3/18/97 8:28 AM


>>The car has a hesitation whenever I tap the gas.  At any speed.  It bogs
>>down for a split second and roars to life.  It does not matter if I am at a
>
>Aside from the accelerator pump, are you running too soft a spring in the
>vacuum secondaries? I know that it's not as easy to adjust as a quadrajet,
>but that could be one source of the bog.
>

The accelerator pump has been replaced.  Did not seem to help the problem.
Could be the secondary spring .. would this cause the hesitation only under
load, or all the time.


------------------------------

From: Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 13:18:55 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 OLDS INFO - Supercharging?

On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, GARY RUBRICH wrote:

>   My name is Gary Rubrich and I'm an avid Olds enthusiast,
> especially small blocks. I believe I have the articles you are
> looking for on the 307 buildup and the SS/GTK Olds cutlass. I
> also have a friend who raced NHRA stock & super stock with a 307
> cutlass and has some parts he is interested in getting rid of .
>  His car in L/SA went 12.20's and in SS went 11.60's. Let me know
> if your interested.
>
>
>                                                    Gary Rubrich
 Gary,

My name is Tim Hietpas and I would also be very intrested in this
information as well.  A list of some of the parts your friend would be
nice as well as what his current engine build-up is now would give my
some idea what to shoot for in the future.

And one last thing, I am looking to build-up a small block Olds for my 87 442
and want to throw a supercharger on top.  Would it be better to go insane with
the 307 or upgrade to a 350 or 403?  Finally, I don't know much about
supercharging, does putting on a supercharger mean upgrading to fuel injection
or can this be added to the present carburation?

Thanks,
Tim

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442     Plates [1987 W 42]

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 13:14:00 -0400
Subject: PARTS SWAPPING

      Date:  03/18/1997  09:14 am  (Tuesday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  PARTS SWAPPING

JUST CURIOUS, OES ANYONE KNOW IF THE FRONT
FENDER WHEEL MOULDINGS FOR A 1964 F-85
CUTLASS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE WITH A 1964
SKYLARK????

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.EDU>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 23:22:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Junkyard Idiots

> This is sad to hear about. April 1st, huh, maybe it's a joke?

Yeah, and the joke's on us for believing it would never happen . . .

> I'm planning on making a trip to Hall's the weekend of the 29th, that's the
> weekend after next. I don't have all the particulars yet, but if anyone is
> interested in joining me, let me know. Reply to my address below.

I'm sure you're going to be swamped with requests to check out cars while
you're at Hall's -- is there a limit on the number of cars you'll look at
while you're there?  Someone here in Florida sure would be grateful . . .
:)))

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 05:20:08 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 OLDS INFO

     Gary,

     I'd take this to e-mail but my mailer doesn't show return addresses
     other than the list's address.  I'm also very interested in getting a
     copy of this article, and possibly interested in the 307 parts.  Can
     you please e-mail me at tlentz@teknon.com and we can work out the
     details.

     Thanks!

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: 307 OLDS INFO Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/18/97 8:30 AM


Hey Brad,

  My name is Gary Rubrich and I'm an avid Olds enthusiast,
especially small blocks. I believe I have the articles you are
looking for on the 307 buildup and the SS/GTK Olds cutlass. I
also have a friend who raced NHRA stock & super stock with a 307
cutlass and has some parts he is interested in getting rid of .
 His car in L/SA went 12.20's and in SS went 11.60's. Let me know
if your interested.


                                                   Gary Rubrich
                                                   72 442 350


------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 05:34:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability

     Listen to 'da man!  I'm going through this same ordeal while repairng
     the front end to my '84 H/O (hit-and-run around the first of Feb,
     check the digest archives if you're interested).  Since I've only had
     the car 1 1/2 years, I haven't accumulated much of a stock in spare
     parts yet.  The front airdam is the hardest to find so far, and the
     last part I need, but I may have a lead on a used one.  I'll find out
     in a few weeks.  Even some of the parts that are common with a normal
     Cutlass have been discontinued, like the bumper guards (they managed
     to find the last two, each at different dealers on the East coast).

     I've ordered spares of the following parts "for the future", which are
     still available:

     Turn Signals (they're amber, a Cutlass is clear w/ amber bulb)
     Headlight Bezels (black)
     Right Grille (left is discontinued, but they still carry the right.
     Go figure!  Fortunately, I broke the right one)
     Left Grille from the '84 calais, which is the same except for the
     color.

     Keep in mind that since these are spares, you can take the time to
     shop around for the best price.  Most of the above stuff I got from
     Tamraz's, and was pretty reasonable.

     Has anyone seen the reproduction stripe kits from Lauren Engineering?
     How do they compare to NOS?  I'm looking at a paint job in a year or
     two. . .

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts
Availability Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/18/97
8:31 AM


     This is just a suggestion to those on the list who have later-model
     Olds cars that are or could possibly become rare collector cars.
     Start buying the parts to restore your car now. I've only been on this

------------------------------

From: Junior627@AOL.COM
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 13:39:19 -0400
Subject: pictures

i am in a dire search for pictures of delta 88's i search everywhere i can
not find any pictures of this beautiful creature...i would really appretiate
some help if anyone knows where i can find some because i am looking to do
some body work on my 85 delta 88 but i dont know what will look good...thanx
in advance....

- -----------------------
junior627@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 14:37:12 -0400
Subject: REO Dumptruck?

  While cruising around looking for lost Oldsmobiles this weekend, I
noticed a big old dump truck parked next to a house apparently from the
same era.  The dump truck itself intrigued me.  Looked like something from
the depression era...  But what caught my eye right off the bat were three
shiny chrome letters on the front of the hood:  "R E O".  Wow!  An REO
Dumptruck.  Cool.  To my great disappointment, I didn't find any 60's -
70's Oldsmobiles.  Tons of old P*ntiacs, Ch*vies, Bu*cks, & F*rds.  Even a
few rusty old pickup and coupe shells from the 20's & 30's.  Unfortunately,
even that old town is moving into the next generation.  According to the
junkyard man (yes, the same one that crushed the 442 last week), a lot of
these cars are coming to him to be parted out and crushed.  I wonder if I
could get some before he does...  Save him the hassle, right? ;)

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: GARY RUBRICH <RUBRICH@bwaafs.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 14:38:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 OLDS INFO - Supercharging? -Reply

>>> Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>  3/18/97, 12:18pm >>>
On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, GARY RUBRICH wrote:

>   My name is Gary Rubrich and I'm an avid Olds enthusiast,
> especially small blocks. I believe I have the articles you are
> looking for on the 307 buildup and the SS/GTK Olds cutlass. I
> also have a friend who raced NHRA stock & super stock with a 307
> cutlass and has some parts he is interested in getting rid of .
>  His car in L/SA went 12.20's and in SS went 11.60's. Let me know
> if your interested.
>
>
>                                                    Gary Rubrich
 Gary,

My name is Tim Hietpas and I would also be very intrested in this
information as well.  A list of some of the parts your friend would
be
nice as well as what his current engine build-up is now would give my

some idea what to shoot for in the future.

And one last thing, I am looking to build-up a small block Olds for
my 87 442
and want to throw a supercharger on top.  Would it be better to go
insane with
the 307 or upgrade to a 350 or 403?  Finally, I don't know much about

supercharging, does putting on a supercharger mean upgrading to fuel
injection
or can this be added to the present carburation?

Thanks,
Tim

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442     Plates [1987 W 42]



Tim,
  Why stop there? Why not upgrade to a 455? It all depends what
ya like, what the car is going to be used for
and how big your wallet is. All of the 307 parts my friend has
are all out race/serious street stuff. I don't know how serious
you are. Superchargers don't require EFI,but the EFI is better
overall than other fuel/air delivery systems when using a
supercharger.

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 05:45:48 -0400
Subject: `67 Cutlass Supreme lives!

My `67 is running after lying domant for 7 years or so.  The story is really
quite useless but someone might find it entertaining.  And I had fun typing
it.  :)

I got a rollback truck to haul the Cutlass home on sunday and watched most
of the chrome blow off the bumper when the truck hit the highway.  We
decided to try to get the engine to run since it would be nice to be able to
park it behind the shed when I'm not working on it.  Squirted some oil in
each cylinder hooked up a battery and charger, removed the plugs, and
changed the oil.  I drained about a half gallon of water from the sump and
maybe 2 and a half quarts of sludge.  Definitly a bad sign.  Refilled the
oil and found out the engine was froze up when I tried the starter.  Just as
expected since it hadn't ran since 1990.  I held a ratchet/socket on the
crank bolt while my dad rocked it with a breaker bar.  after a little
coaxing the crank budged.  Bumped the starter some and the engine started
turning over.

Installed better plugs,poured a little gas down the carb, cranked it, and
had a carb fire.  Kinda strange how that was actually encouraging.  After
more cranking and subsequent fires we decided to adjust the timing since the
engine appeared to be trying but it would only buck and sneeze.  (we also
moved the gas can well away from the car :)  )     After some trial and
error the engine coughed to life.  Don't ya just love oldsmobiles?

By this time it was getting dark so we had to pack it in but yesterday dad
hooked up an old garden sprayer filled with gas to the fuel pump.  Found out
the needle valve in the carb wouldn't close and the engine flooded. When I
got back from classes we took the top off the carb and found all kinds of
nasty goop in the bowl and the float was sure enough stuck.  Cleaned it out
and soon got the engine going.  The jetaway even shifted into reverse after
we added some fluid and the car could move itself back and forth though low
gear is having trouble.  Gotta fix the brakes next.

It seems the engine has at least a bad head gasket since there was a
monsterous stream of smog coming from the tailpipe.  A bored neighbor saw
the cloud from his house a quarter mile away (through the woods) and drove
up to se what we were up to...It was really bad.  The engine appears to be
an early seventies/late sixties 350.  I'm guessing that because the carb has
no vacuum port for the charcoal cannister like my `72 does.  I hope the
heads and crank are salvageable but after finding all that water I have my
doubts about the block.  I'll be keeping a close eye on the oil level  (and
pressure) to make sure water isn't filling the sump again, I'd hate to ruin
what might be a decent crank.  I hope we didn't break too much when we freed
up the engine.  I might keep it if it's rebuildable.

Anyways the olds ran despite it's previous life of cruel and unusual
punisment.  Judging by the maintinence work of the last person to drive it
I'm lucky it even turns over.  It has piece of twine for the accelerator
linkage, the mount for the air cleaner stud was broken off, so no air
cleaner.   Radio apparently removed via hammer, etc. etc.  My favorite piece
of handywork was the t-shirt stretched over the driver side seatback, I
guess the torn vinyl would dig into a shirtless driver pretty bad.

Well, I'll quit burning bandwith for now.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 14:58:49 -0400
Subject: 1974 Chassis Service Manual For Sale (3/18)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to
sell:

1974 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual.  Lightly shop dirty, but not
at all worn out or torn up.  $40.00, plus shipping. (3/18/97)

Please notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to
purchase this item or if you would like additional information about
it.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 15:23:04 -0400
Subject: Re: rare 'new' Olds

I don't know exactly how rare they are, but I was offered, about a year
ago, an '88 Cutlass with the (uhm, 3.8 I think) with a 5 speed.  The local
Dodge dealer had aquired one in a trade, and soon afterwards, it had begun
having problems.  One of the salespersons offered to sell it to me for
$1500 cash with just 80,000 miles on the car.  He assured me that the
problem seemed to just be a bad fuel pump, and should be easy, and fairly
cheap to fix.  I passed the car up, figuring that with my normal luck, the
entire fuel system would turn up to be shot.  Found out a month later that
it WAS just the fuel pump, and the dealer fixed it and sold the car for
somewhere in the 4k to 5k dollar range!  The dealer had offered it to me
unfixed to quote "get it out of his sight!"

That was certainly one that got away...  perhaps I need to be more
trusting.   :-)

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ.
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get your copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall


On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:

> I was over in Jersey at a used car lot and saw a RARE Olds. It was a 92
> Cutlass Supreme (not the Ciera A body) 4 door powered by a 3.4 dohc
> *5 speed* Never even knew they came so eqipped. It was red w/ gray leather
> interior. It had 69k miles on it and they wnated $9000 for it. Too high
IMHO. > It was weird to see a clutch in such a car. > Betcha only about a 100
or so were made like that. > > > > > FRank... 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special
Edition..one of 955 (every day driver) >          65 El Camino (show car,
cruiser) >          95 Plymouth Neon (wifes car) >          95 Dodge Ram 4x4
v-10 (company truck).... > >

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 15:30:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability

> This is just a suggestion to those on the list who have later-model Olds
cars > that are or could possibly become rare collector cars.  Start buying
the > parts to restore your car now. I've only been on this list for a short
time

A friend's '77 Custom Cruiser was involved in an accident last Thursday.
A silly '95 Niss*n Minima slammed into the driver's side; the brunt of the
force was admirably absorbed by the rear door's impact beam.  The Minima's
carcass had to be towed away due to extensive front end damage.
Fortunately, the insurance company has decided to make repairs, which
total $2400.

The stainless wheel well mouldings have been out of stock for many years.
Any '77-'79, or even '80-'85 (these have been discontinued also) Delta 88
owners that come across decent wheel well mouldings at a wreckers should
snap them up.  The driver's side rear moulding was twisted very badly, and
I can't believe they're going to repair it.  The rear door is going to be
replaced with one from a Southern junque yarde.  Surprisingly, this '79
Ch*v door has far more rust than the original Canadian item: a tribute
to the regular use of an oil-based rust protectant.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Greg Yonge <gsyonge@genesisnetwork.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 15:54:35 -0400
Subject: Car Records

Can anyone tell me how to find out where a car was 1st sold?
The 66' dynamic i'm looking at was made here in CA (according to the Olds
History Center), but the plant has since closed down and I don't know where
to look for this information.  Thanks!

------------------------------

From: Dawn Roode <dawnr@curtco.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 11:00:39 -0400
Subject: dash painting

The metal part of the dashboard in my 68 442 convertible is quite
scratched in places and in need of painting.  Should I use a fine sand
paper to smooth out the nicks, or is there some other way to go about
correcting this?  Also, what kind of paint should I use (it's black)?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Dawn
dawnr@curtco.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 16:57:09 -0400
Subject: Re: dash painting

At 11:00 AM 3/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The metal part of the dashboard in my 68 442 convertible is quite
>scratched in places and in need of painting.  Should I use a fine sand
>paper to smooth out the nicks, or is there some other way to go about
>correcting this?  Also, what kind of paint should I use (it's black)?
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>Dawn
>dawnr@curtco.com


Dawn

        I would start by sanding an feathering all the scratches out then
give it a light coat of primer, sand it again with 400 grit sandpaper and
shoot it with either Eastwood's underhood black(has an excellent eggshell
black appearance, or Krylon sem-flat black. Both should yield great results.

Best of luck,

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 17:20:59 -0400
Subject: Re: dash painting

Dawn Roode wrote:
>
> The metal part of the dashboard in my 68 442 convertible is quite
> scratched in places and in need of painting.  Should I use a fine sand
> paper to smooth out the nicks, or is there some other way to go about
> correcting this?  Also, what kind of paint should I use (it's black)?
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I'd be interested in knowing about this also, because I'm going to
repaint the dash on my 68 hardtop.  My plan was to use sandpaper, primer
then paint.  Also, don't forget to add the stripe to the 68 dash.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "Dan Miller" <Dsm137@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 17:29:31 -0400
Subject: RE: Insurance

Hey Folks,

I am looking for the phone numbers for these companies....Any help??

Dan.

- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of Lloyd Culp
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 1997 2:19 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Insurance

Craig J. Smith wrote:
>
> I am acquiring classic car insurance and have applications for Condon &
> Skelly and American Collectors Insurance, Inc.  Does anyone have any
> advice or had any trouble with either of these.
>
> Thanks
>
> Craig Smith
> 68 442 conv.

Craig,

I thought that Classic was a little high & restrictive; especialy in
mileage.  I don't know about condon & Skelly but they seem to have a
great reputation.  I use Hagerty but have no experience w/a claim.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Etzel Bobby" <Etzel.Bobby@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 16:51:17 -0400
Subject: Anyone in the DC, VA area

Is there anyone on the list from the DC, Chantilly VA area. (Other then Doug)
I will be in this area for a few weeks and would like to get togeather. Reply
to me at:

bobby.etzel@gsc.gte.com

Thanks

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

------------------------------

From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 18:01:01 -0400
Subject: Club for 73-77 Cutlass

Any interested in '73- '77 Cutlass Coupes please check out our clubs web page
for membership benifits at,
http://members.aol.com/CUTLASCOUP/index.html
Thanks, DUKE

------------------------------

From: dr_olds@pitnet.net
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 18:28:01 -0400
Subject: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

Don't forget, IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

------------------------------

From: "Craig J. Smith" <cjs@semplecpa.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 18:55:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance

Dan Miller wrote:
>
> Hey Folks,
>
>         I am looking for the phone numbers for these companies....Any help??
>
>                                 Dan.
>
Most of these companies have web sites.  Check out the links at
www.myclassiccar.com

Craig Smith
68 442

------------------------------

From: "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 18:56:03 -0400
Subject: Radiator interchange

   I went back to the junkyard (the 442 killers) over the weekend, because
I
 had to see with my own eyes that it was really gone.  It was. ;-(  While
 talking to one of the workers, I looked down and noticed a decent looking
 4-core radiator sitting on the ground.  It looked like an Olds radiator,
so
 I asked about it.  The guy said, "yeah, in fact that's the one out of the
 442 we just crushed."  But then when I asked the owner, he said it was out
 of a Chevelle or something.  He wants $30 for it, and it looks like it's
in
 great shape.  No signs of leaks or anything.  So my question is, is there
a
 physical difference between an Olds radiator and a Chevy radiator of the
 same vintage?

 Also, if it is an Olds 4-core, will it fit where a 3-core originally sat?
 What kind of modifications, if any will I need to make?  I currently have
a
 4-core out of a '74 Cutlass jerry-rigged in there without a fan shroud,
and
 I want to put something back in that my fan shroud will fit on.

 Thanks,
 -Blaine

 P.S. - if anyone feels particularly energetic, it would help if someone
 could find a part ª for a 4-core radiator for '68 or '69 442 so I could
 check to make sure.


------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:04:38 -0400
Subject: Dr. Bob's Pinto

Just last week in my G.E.D. study class they were discussing the mass of
photons.  Dr. Einstein would be proud to know that at least in a Pinto his
observations have been proven.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:16:49 -0400
Subject: Re: THE ELUSIVE 455 FORGED CRANK...

Luke,

Concerning Question ª4 about the crank:  If you are trying to figure out
if the crank is forged or not, check the crank throws, or the
counterweights.  There is probably a line running across the
counterweight, along the axis of the main journals.  If this line is
pencil-thin then the crank is probably cast iron.  If the line is
considerably wider, maybe a centimeter wide, then the crank is probably
forged steel.

I'm not sure if this is the info you're looking for but I hope it helps,
and I hope it makes sense.

Hope the project goes well!

             Jim Townsend

             '90 Calais

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:27:25 -0400
Subject: Back Again

Well guys, I hope you enjoyed the break, but I'm back, after a short 2000
mile trip of Merry Oldsmobiling.



Clayton Pierce,
Late last week, I saw a '55 or '56 Olds 2-dr HT in a driveway about 20 miles
from Greenville, TN.  I seem to remember that you have a '56 on your want
list.  I'll E/M directly as soon as I find your E/M address.  I came home to
356 pages of E/M to read, and have only gone thru about 1/3rd.


Matthew Mayer,
I wondered why GM changed their keys at all.  In the good old days, one key
fits all was the rule, and it could be removed from the ignition at any
time.  You could leave the ignition unlocked if you wished too.  I would be
happy with a one key car.


Eric Aksomitis,
Yes, GM forgot to elaborate on the 'corporate engine' policy, and was sued.
The next day signs came down, and advertising went up.


Re, restocking charges:
Restocking charges can be made when a customer buys a part and returns same.
If the return is caused by damage, or if the part is incorrect this charge
is not applicable (you cannot charge your customer, when it is not their
fault!!!).  As a matter of fact, in the way described, it may in fact be
FRAUD.  I would RUN not walk to the telephone, and call your local Postal
Inspector.  The Postal Inspectors service is the oldest existing law
enforcment body in the U.S.  They will take details, and if warranted send
you a form.  After the form is filed  amazing things happen, including
proper action on the part of the vendor.  These guys can be nice, if they
get a proper response, or nasty if they do not.  I personally know of two
cases where the Postal Inspectors went to work, and both cases restulted in
prolonged stays in the crossbar hotel for the perpatrators.

You as the customer have the right to expect the correct part in un-damaged
condition.  If either of these conditions are evident in the parts you
acquire, you have the right to return them, for a full refund; or in the
case of damage, occasionally it is worked out with the carriers insurance:
this later case is conditional, and dependant on where the fault is found.

There are postal regulations that deal with many aspects of 'mail order'
businesses, and a vendor cannot post a rule that is counter to the postal
regulations.

If you live in a large city, the Postal Inspectors probably have an office.
If you are a bit remote, call your local post office branch and get the
number for the closest office, I'm sure that they will be happy to provide
you with the number, and any other assistance that you may require.

That's all for now, more when I get thru the rest of the posts.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Oldsnut1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:31:49 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

I Would like to know exactly how to get on to the IRC
can someone let me know (e-mail me please)
I'm kinda new at this.
Thanks Olds people :-)
Oldsnut1@aol.com

------------------------------

From: FBrussee@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:43:48 -0400
Subject: Re: IRC Tonight (TUE) and Tomorrow (Wen) at 7pm Central!

sorry i'm a dolt-what's irc?

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:42:53 -0400
Subject: Our 66 Delta

Hey Briceman got our car on the registry. Check it out big car and ragtop
guys and gals.
Walter & Mary Jones

------------------------------

From: "Robert K. Whitaker" <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 19:52:55 -0400
Subject: RE: rear-end id. needed

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I haven't found anything in 1969 Oldsmobile literature that references =
the SH rear-end code.  My 69 H/O is an A/C car and has the rear-end code =
SH and it is a 3:23 -- I've counted the teeth on the ring and pinion.  =
The H/O literature supports the fact that A/C cars had 3.23's.  =
Additionally, I found a cardboard tag under one of my coil springs with =
these words printed:

OLDSMOBILE=20
     (3.23)        =20
                  =20
DIFFERENTIAL

  13  x  42

I haven't heard anyone else mention one of these cards before.  I just =
happened to remember I had it when this thread started.  Does anyone =
know if they were standard on Oldsmobiles?=20

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

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------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 20:26:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Hesitation and Thumping Problems (long-ish)

I had a similiar problem once on my '74 Delta 88 (2dr), and the
problem on mine was that through wear/grime/abuse the flippy part of the
secondary (I think they're called buttefly valves, but flippy part works)
had actually been touching the body of the carberatour and 'sticking' to
the body slightly, so that when you floored it at almost any speed, it
would bellow and sound quite bad, then rev up and run like a true
oldsmobile (perfect).  I don't confess to have any great knowledge of car
carberators, but my uncle's help and a chunk of used sandpaper fixed me
up that day.


EA~

On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, Ed Rogers wrote:

> <fontfamily><param>Geneva</param><bigger><bigger>Hi all,
>
> I am a long time lurker and owner (about 3 years) and finally have a
>
> problem to throw at the group.  First, my car :
>
> 69 442 Convertible
>
> 73-76 455, J Heads (I know I know), Holley 650 single pump. Holley
> Street
>
> Dominator manifold, factory (for the year) electronic ignition
> TH400 (fresh rebuild)
> Problem 1:
>
> The car has a hesitation whenever I tap the gas.  At any speed.  It
> bogs
>
> down for a split second and roars to life.  It does not matter if I am
> at a
>
> light or doing 70.  However, it does not do it when the car is in park
>
> (under no load).  Then I can punch the pedal and all I hear is the
> happy

------------------------------

From: Marvin Kirschenbaum <kirschm@hoflink.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 20:32:57 -0400
Subject: RE: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

The Intrique is pretty sharp, but it's also about $25,000.  I had a limit of
$20,000 which the Cutlass fit into nicely.

Marv

- ----------
From: Jason Adcock[SMTP:adcockjk@erols.com]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 1997 12:42 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS

Marvin Kirschenbaum wrote:
>
> I am considering purchasing a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass GLS, with the only
> option of a CD/Cassette radio being ordered.  I would be interested in
> getting any opinions, both good or bad.
>
> Thank you

Have you considered the new Intrique?  It looks like a pretty sharp car
and evidently is pretty good competition for the competition (Maxima,
Camry) as per the recent issue of Motor Trend.  With the Intrique, you
get the tried and true 3800 V6 (195 hp), but you pay for it...

- --

+-----------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

 adcockjk@erols.com
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

+-----------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 14:50:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"

R Mullen wrote:
>
> R. Barry wrote:
> >If it is so complete, why would you want to part it out?
>
> If you could see the car, you would know why I would part it out.  The
> body is pretty tired, and it is not something I'm interested in
> restoring.  My next project will be a Toronado.  The W30 in question is
> a battered, very light yellowish-white (Parchment?), which is a hideous
> color, and it has a tannish-color vinyl top.  If I restored it, I would
> never paint it the original color, so there would go its value as a show
> car.

I don't know what is done in the OCA, but in national AACA judging, no
points are deducted for any color that was correct for that type car in
that year.  One may also add or subtract vinyl roofs or any accessory
that was offered by the factory on that model in that year.

I was amazed that it is relatively complete, considering 160K
> miles are on the clock.
>
> >Well, aside from the profit motive, there aren't any more original W-30's
> being built, >and this would be one less for posterity.
>
> Ooh, I feel like I'm being vilified here.
>
> >(though I suppose you could argue that
> >its spirit would live on in the fake W-30 that could be built from its
> >parts... but then what's the point).
>
>
> >Wouldn't an entire car be worth more than the parts alone, especially since
> >some of the W-30 specific stuff is gone already? After all, what can you
> >sell the shell of stripped W-30 442 for?
>
> According to my price guide, the car (which I rate Condition 5,  one
> step above a stripped parts car) books at $3000.

  The fact is, there is only a small market for  442's.  The
> market for the parts, however, is vast.  Since I am not made of money, I
> have to bow to the demands of the marketplace.
>
> Knowing that I'll have spare grilles, fenders, OAI hood and frame in my
> garage will enable me to drive my current car more frequently with less
> fear of some loser hitting me and putting my car out of commission.
> Like you, I would love to restore this car and have it to enjoy.
> However, economic reality and the condition of the car dictates that it
> is either buy it (and part it) or lose out on it forever.  What would
> you do in my shoes?

If you feel it is not worth your time, why not just pass on it so that
someone else can get a fine $3000 project car.  Many of us cannot afford
the luxury of a restored car unless we spend years getting a grubby one
to the point of "restoration".

Of course this is only my opinion.  What you do w/your money & your car
is your business.  It only has to make you happy.  I haven't asked you
what should be done w/my cars.  Of course, you did ask our opinion on
this purchase & the disposition of the car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 21:02:49 -0400
Subject: Water Marks

My 1987 Cutlass Salon has acid rain marks on the hood, roof, and trunk is
there any way of removing them without having to repaint the car.  It is all
black, and other than tis problem the paint is near perfect.  I was planning
on showing this car on a limited basis along with my other Oldsmobiles.  Any
help would be appreciated. Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu

1969 Cutlass Conver.
1969 442
1976 442
1985 Cutlass Supreme (for sale)
1987 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 15:04:09 -0400
Subject: Re: dash painting

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 11:00 AM 3/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >The metal part of the dashboard in my 68 442 convertible is quite
> >scratched in places and in need of painting.  Should I use a fine sand
> >paper to smooth out the nicks, or is there some other way to go about
> >correcting this?  Also, what kind of paint should I use (it's black)?
> >Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Dawn
> >dawnr@curtco.com
>
> Dawn
>
>         I would start by sanding an feathering all the scratches out then
> give it a light coat of primer, sand it again with 400 grit sandpaper and
> shoot it with either Eastwood's underhood black(has an excellent eggshell
> black appearance, or Krylon sem-flat black. Both should yield great results.
>
> Best of luck,
>
> Jim Chermack
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32
> 72 442>

My lower dash on the '68 is a glossy color.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 21:13:30 -0400
Subject: Wanted: 1956  STD XMSN Parts

Folks,

I am looking for everything needed to convert from an automatic
to a standard transmission.  I will need the following: clutch linkage,
bell housing, flywheel, and steering column for floor shift.  Thank you
for any assistance.

sincerely,

    John Foster

------------------------------

From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 23:10:14 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Rear Code

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:

> Looks like he didn't shaft you after all. That was the std rear for the 69
>H/O.

Thanx a lot, guys :) I wasn't positive that the part in question was
original, but getting the bolts loose was a bear. It had been on there for a
long time.

Glenn, I'm glad that it was the correct part.

JR

------------------------------

From: "Steve Reed" <SSREED@IBM.NET>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 20:58:14 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª565

> > From: Frank Gonzalez <PLPAUDIO@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
> > Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:35:51 -0400
> > Subject: Re: Sheetmetal & Carb Question
> >
> > > that; I'd just like to hear from others who have done so.
> > > I also have a carburetor question.  I have a Holley 650 spread bore,
> > > mechanical secondary, carb  Is is possible to up the CFM to roughly
800
> by incresaing the
> > > jets, and accelerator pumps??  I would like to use this carb if I
can,
> as
> > > it's good and FREE!
> > >
> > > ANY thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!
> > >
> > > Steve Reed
> > > Austin, TX
> > > 1970 4-4-2 Ragtop
> >
> > Steve,
> > Save yourself a lot of work and stick with the stock Quadrajet.A
> > bigblock quadrajet flows about 850cfm and is IMHO much more relaible
and
> > responsive in a street vehicle than the Holley.With proper tuning the
> > stock carb will be more than you will need.
> > Hope this helps,
> > Frank
> > 70 442
> > 71 w-30 convt
> > 72 Cutlass S
> > 90 LSC

Frank,
  Thanx for the reply.  I was always pleased with the performance on my
dad's 1976 Delta 88, 455 & towing package.  I have also always heard good
things about Quadrajets on Olds engines too.  I guess it's time to start
searching for a good unit.

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 21:51:04 -0400
Subject: Seats... FOR SALE!

Well,

My deal went through on the sale of my Sienna seats, got a pair that
aren't too bad, anybody need a set?


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 21:53:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Marks

On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, Robert Yasczak wrote:
> My 1987 Cutlass Salon has acid rain marks on the hood, roof, and trunk is
there > any way of removing them without having to repaint the car.  It is all
black, > and other than tis problem the paint is near perfect.  I was planning
on > showing this car on a limited basis along with my other Oldsmobiles.  Any
help > would be appreciated.

Are these water marks basically transparent, basically white, or
something else altogether? Not sure I'd know how to ID an acid rain mark...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 21:55:00 -0400
Subject: Re: dash painting

On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, Lloyd Culp wrote:
> My lower dash on the '68 is a glossy color.
>

Hmm... mine definitely isn't glossy. More of a semi-black, although more
towards the shiny than satin part of the scale (if that makes any
sense)...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 22:39:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Salvage Yard Closings/Parts Availability

At 10:07 AM 3/18/97 -0400, NotDads442@aol.com wrote:
>This is just a suggestion to those on the list who have later-model Olds cars
>that are or could possibly become rare collector cars.  Start buying the
>parts to restore your car now. I've only been on this list for a short time
>but have already seen posts from people with cars that are barely 10 years
>old who cannot find parts/trim pieces/emblems and sticker packages.  Those of
>you who own 90-91 442s, W-41s and 92 and up SCX Achievas are you listening?
> Even those with the I-Series Calais and Supremes.  Your cars are 5+ years
>old now.  The sticker packages/emblems for these cars are expensive right
>now.  Imagine what they will cost in 20 years, if they are available at all.

I couldn't agree more. Myself I am starting to stockpile 78-87 Cutlass's and
a some 73-77 Cutlass's. Being that my family owns a junkyard this is rather
easy. Although I am not a big fan of the small W-41's, Calais, etc, I do
save itmes off of these cars that look rare (like badges, guages, wheels,
etc)  I don't plan to sell these soon, just stashing away for the future.
Aside from that we average probably 5-10 Oldsmobiles a month sent to the
local pic-a-part or crusher. If I had room to stockpile all these Olds I
would but there isn't room. I remember about this time last year sending a
90 442 to the crusher, it was wrecked bad in the rear and we couldn't find
any takers for it,  so off to the smasher. After I get my 75 H/O completed
this summer I will get rid of the 5 parts cars from 75-77 that I have
probably to the pick-a-part or crusher. I can sympathize with the junkyard
idiots in a way, when cars set there for so long and you tell/advertise to
people you have them and no one comes to take parts....you update your stock
to (hopefully) improve profits. It is the ones that keep the cars a secret
then crush them that are the true idiots. I have noticed more 86 to 90 cars
coming into our yard that eventually become ours to decide on. Seems to be
more of the 88's and 98's.

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 23:01:32 -0400
Subject: Re: PST front end kit

> >PST polygraphite front end kit.
> >> I am thinking about going throught the front end on my '69 442. Does
> >>anyone have any experience good or bad with this company....
> PST polygraphite bushings are manufactured by Energy Suspensions here in
> CA.

Just for y'alls information... I just put a set on Energy Suspension's
bushings on my '71 Cutlass rag-top. They installed just fine. I won't
know how they ride for another few weeks. I paid about $50 through
Summit racing. One hitch... if your planning on doing this job and you
have OVAL rear lower bushings - DON'T remove the casing of the rear
lower bushing. The new poly bushing installs into the old casing - you
just need to get the old rubber and center shaft out (the rest of the
new bushings are complete with casings).
David Nye
'71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 23:13:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance

Dan Miller wrote:
>
> Hey Folks,
>
>         I am looking for the phone numbers for these companies....Any help??
>
>                                 Dan.
>
> ----------
> From:   oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of Lloyd Culp
> Sent:   Tuesday, March 18, 1997 2:19 AM
> To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: Insurance
>
> Craig J. Smith wrote:
> >
> > I am acquiring classic car insurance and have applications for Condon &
> > Skelly and American Collectors Insurance, Inc.  Does anyone have any
> > advice or had any trouble with either of these.
> >
> >
American Collectors phone ª is 609-779-7212. I haven't had a problem but
I also haven't had to make a claim.
David Nye
'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Frank Gonzalez <PLPAUDIO@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 22:40:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle -or- "To part or not to part"

In my not so humble opinion,  the hobby will be much better
> off with two or three more genuine W-machines being completed than with one
> more bootleg built by some fool in a ridiculous attempt defraud all of "the
> experts."  Stepping down off my soapbox now.....

You are right but I see the problem of some people parting out
salvagable real
442s and Wmachines because they can make more money that way and drive
up the
price of the remaining real cars to the point that the average joe has
to
either fake it or not have one at all.(by the way they also refuse to
sell you
the same car they are parting out.Why?)
Just my .02c.
Frank
70 442
71 442 W-30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª566
**********