To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #588


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 1 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 588

Re: 400 Motors
Re: 502 swap into '71 cutlass
Re:Electric Cars
Survived the easter !
Re:Battery Volts
Re: Misc comments and feedback
Engine weights
Brakes
RE: Underhood Lights
Re: 1975 455 Cutlass speculations (was Re: Misc comments and feedback)
Re[2]: F-body knuckle swap into A-body; handling improvement
RE: 82 Cutlass/455 - was Re: Misc comments and feedback
NOS Floor Mats For Sale (3/31)
Oldsmobile (?) Tail Lamp Housing For Sale (4/1)
Re: 82 Cutlass/455 - was Re: Misc comments and feedback
T-tops
Re: Rear -ends....
Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: F-body knuckle swap into A-body; handling improvements
Question: Posting Olds events & clubs listings to newsgroup?
Attn. Maryland Olds Lovers - OCC Meeting 4/8/97
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: Question: Posting Olds events & clubs listings to newsgroup?
Looking for SSI wheels
Re: Supercharger
72 W30
Re: Amazement
Re: Chicagoland BOP Swap Meet Get Together This Sunday
Re:455 Toro Rod Bolts & 442 Headers
Re: Carb Question
Re: Bodies
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: No Subject
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
RE: Underhood Lights
Re: Bodies
Re: Anti Roll Bars
Re: rear gears
Re[2]: Bad Rings
Re: 502 swap into '71 cutlass
Re: 502 swap into '71 cutlass
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
85 Toronado Heater
Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED
Re: Bodies
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: chevy 502 into olds reply
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips  ---fools, etc.
Re: Rear -ends....
Southern Idioms
Re: RIMS/TIRES
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips
Re: More on the Knuckle Sandwich
Re: Looking for SSI wheels

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 02:16:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 400 Motors

Greg - thanks for the info - not sure how it made it just to you but - !!

Thanks - I'll check out the FAQ also.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 03:11:22 -0400
Subject: Re: 502 swap into '71 cutlass

   There was a guy down that was racing a 1970 Monte Carlo down at Carlsbad
Raceway in Southern California --  The car was set up with one of those
complete tublular stock replacement rear suspension set ups along with a
completely tuned front suspension -- he also had a Currie Enterprises built
Ford" rear end with 4.11:1 gears -- i don't remember the size slicks that he
was running but they fit inside his wheel wells.
  Well to get to the point he had one of those 502 crate engines in the
Monte.
The best E.T. he pulled when i was out there was a 13.10 -- i never did get
the mph but i do know that he wasn't very happy with what he got for what he
paid.  That and this car was supposed to be a dedicated brackett race car.


  Just my $.02 on the Chevy crate engine -- i wouldn't buy one.

                             J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 05:34:17 -0400
Subject: Re:Electric Cars

The Wiz wrote:

> So that electricity had to come from a lot of coal, a fair hit of atoms, and
> darn little hydroelectric!

> Also, electric cars are nowhere near as efficient as a gasoline one,
> considering all aspects of energy production, use and delivery.

First of all I'm NOT an expert in this subject but something can be
said just by using the common sense.

An electric car can be made a LOT more efficient than it's gasoline
counterpart. There are several things that are obvious:
- - no idle
- - no cold-starting / warm up
- - kinetic energy can be reused (braking charges the battery)
- - minimal count of moving parts -> less friction
- - minimal count of moving parts -> less maintenance -> less pollution
- - less noise dampening needed -> less weight

The power plant can be made a lot more efficient because it runs at a
constant speed. Compare this with a car motor that has to run efficiently
at different speeds. A vechile motor is always a compromize. I'm thinking
the generator at my cottage at Lapland. It uses VERY little fuel.

The waste energy from a power plant can be used to warm houses.

Because an electric car can be made a lot cheaper than the gasoline one
and because a gasoline motor can generate a lot more power than an electric
motor (at the date) the electric car is not appetizing nor for the customer
or the manufacturer.

The gas is just a side-product in oil refinery. So there is no good reason
for oil companies to loose a bunch of good customers that consume their
spills. It is hard to get funding for electric car development. I think
that is the main reason why we don't have "good" electric cars yet.

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 03:52:59 -0400
Subject: Survived the easter !

Hi all.

Back (at work) after 4 pleasing holidays.

During the easter holidays we visited a display called
"American car show" at Helsinki display center. The show is the
biggest car show in northern coutries.

Don't you dare to laugh at the name ! :).

The display had some 100 hot-rods and restored cars and despite of
the name of the show there were some rice-burners too. A customized
Mor**s Mini equipped with a big block is something You should NOT
miss. It's like You put that engine in a wheel chair.....

The sad thing in the show was that there were only two Oldsmobiles.
The good thing was that the other ('57 super 88) participates the
anniversary in Lansing. So we have a representation there too !

Since I had my wife with me I missed the ladies underwear show and
the Hustler girls...... Otherwise it has been a bright, sunny easter.


Hope You all had at least as pleasing holidays. (Assuming You have
easter holidays down there).

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 05:43:16 -0400
Subject: Re:Battery Volts

Greg wrote:

> the car and it shows only about 9 volts. Not good for a 12-volt battery.
> Do I have a dead cell or two, or is it just discharged? Any advice

You definitely have two dead cells. The voltage across a good battery is
12.something even if it is almost dead. The voltage drops rapidly when
you take some juice out of it if it's empty.

When there is a "missing" cell, the "idle" voltage is lower. In Your case
over 3 volts are missing -> over one dead cell -> 2 dead cells.

Sorry to hear about Your battery.......

- --
**********************************************
* Esko Ilola                                 *
* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
* X400  G=esko S=ilola O=tele A=mailnet C=fi *
* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
*       +358 4055 75977                      *
*       +358 9537 430                        *
* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
*       01610 VANTAA                         *
*       FINLAND                              *
**********************************************
* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
**********************************************

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 06:59:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Misc comments and feedback

>
> OL>Olds content -> I'm not a huge performance freak, but when I get my '75
> OL>455 (stock) into my '75 cutlass, I'm sure I'll want to test it out, can
> OL>anyone tell me what I might do against a early '80's 5 leeter m***ang
> OL>(I'm not concerned overly either way, but enquiring minds DO want to
know). > > I had a '76 455 with a stock replacement melling cam & headers in
a '82 > cutlass with lousy 2.4? gears it ran 15.7 - 15.9 e.t. in 1/4 mile. You 
>
might get lucky against a early '80's r*stang with an automatic. > > Daren
'65 Dynamic "88"


Don't loose hope!  A friend of mine had a 78 Grand Prix, Pontiac 400,
2.29 gears.  With a fairly large cam, he ran consistant 14.5's, at 106
mph!  And that was still in 2nd gear!  The slow block guys could not
believe his trap speed, as he chased them down at the end of the 1/4mi.
The 2.29 7.5 took about a year of abuse, never broke, (couldn't really
do that hard of a launch) then made way for a 3.42.  The gears were all
cracked and bent when he took it apart, but stayed together.

The only problem he really had was relability, around 4600 rpm in high
gear (which he revved 6400 in 1st and 2nd), he had a problem, the
windshield breaks, it took him 3X at that to really get the gist that,
"hey dummy, you're going too fast!"  I don't know what the insurance
company ever thought of about that.

What I am trying to say, is build the engine to run with those gears, it
can be done.  If you know what you are building for, select the
components that make the combination work.  Low lift flow.  Build for
torque!  You have 455 CID to deal with!  The biggest problem I see with
Olds and Pontiacs, is people expect slow block tech to work on them.  It
doesn't.  The slow block needs to rev to make power, the Rocket motors
don't and niether do the Indian motors.  You can have a faster car with
a 3.08 gear than most any slow block with 4.11.  He spins to no end to
run, where you run it and make mid range acceleration that he can only
dream of.

Enjoy!
Thomas Martin

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:03:55 -0400
Subject: Engine weights

>
> My Ch*vy 350 will blow the socks of my Delta 88 w/455; and both have had
> minor surgery to improve them.
>
> Kevin, got any weight data.  "Setting the Pace" says that my Delta weighs
> 3561ª, and if we add 200ª for the BB, we have a 3761ª ride.  Any idea on
> what my 350 Ch*vy weighs.
>
> If the 350 is much lighter then we have the apples/oranges comparason,
> instead of one from a level playing field.
>
> The Wiz
>
> ------------------------------


A 350 SB weighs in around 575 lbs "wet", BB is about 700 lbs.

I think the 500 Cadillac is 750

The Pontiac 455 is about 600 lbs.

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:07:44 -0400
Subject: Brakes

I have an 85 Cutlass, 307 CID, 7A heads.  187,750 miles!

Is there anything that can be done to these cars to increase braking?
It brakes fairly well, but I want more.  Can the 80-up 12inch HD brakes
be added?  They are a spindle and rotor swap on my 80 T/A, but can the
Cutlass swap the same?  I would like 4 wheel disc, and not go with high
dollar aftermarket items.  This is no race car.

Thanks
Thomas Martin

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:15:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Underhood Lights

On Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Jim & Tina R. wrote:

> For quite some time this has been puzzling me. My 70 442 has the
underhood light wired into the parking light, while my 70 Cutlass Supreme
light comes on whenever the hood is opened. I am the second owner of each
of these cars and have discussed this with each of the original owners.
Each maintains that each of the cars were delivered this way. Seems like
the norm for the 442, but what about the Cutlass?

I think they were all supposed to be wired into the parking lights. They
normally connect into a brown lead that is buried either below the brake
booster/master cylinder or down under the dash near the fuse block. It
would be interesting to see on your Cutlass where it is getting it's
power from. I would think that a factory installation would be connected
directly to the wiring harness somewhere.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:17:57 -0400
Subject: Re: 1975 455 Cutlass speculations (was Re: Misc comments and
feedback)

Cool, and yes I do plan on some changes (Dual exhaust, probably headers)
Since I am rebuilding my Turb400, what's this about a looser torque?
Please explain.  As per 3.08 gears, though, I'd think I might have to
sacrafice a bit of light-light power for that effortless cruising I
love.  Also, I have a set of '74 heads of an olds 88, are these any
better, or should I not waste my time their.  As this motor is going to
'fixed up' by the time I put it in, are there any other suggestions for a
bit more power with medium cost and no real loss of reliability (In my
part of the country, every teenager buys a cam for his '70s 350chev, and
comes home one day 'knocking' or 'walking').

BTW, the owner of this car doesn't believe oldsmobile ever even made a
sportscar, let alone one that would beat ANY m***tang (I didn't realize
that decal on a four-cylinder made it so fast, but what can you do?)

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997, Robert Barry wrote:

> At 01:45 PM 3/31/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >>Olds content -> I'm not a huge performance freak, but when I get my '75
> >>455 (stock) into my '75 cutlass, I'm sure I'll want to test it out, can
> >>anyone tell me what I might do against a early '80's 5 leeter m***ang
>
> Of course, if you put a decent camshaft in that engine, a little-looser
> converter, some 3.08+ gears and had a decent exhaust on your car, then you
> might present some trouble to the unmodified FI cars. Then again, once you
> got a taste of what your engine might be capable of doing, then you'll want
> more power, and then, you'll be hopeless just like the rest of us...
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:21:28 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: F-body knuckle swap into A-body; handling improvement




Yes, HO Racing is no longer in parts-selling business but he now has
set up a tech-advice-only service (called something along the lines of
HO Enterprises).  I can dig up the phone number if anyone is
interested.  The parts he used to sell are now being distributed by
another company if anyone is interested in that too.

Terrill


          Yes, as this is of general interest (they sell A-body
          suspension parts), please post the info.

          Thanks

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:46:37 -0400
Subject: RE: 82 Cutlass/455 - was Re: Misc comments and feedback

And may I get smited for this, It is still my opinion:
In My opinion, a 455 in such a light car as an '82 cutlass in stock
revving form, and 2.4 gears is a remarkably inneficient system.  I
believe that this car would not be too fast, but assuming the car would
hold togethor, it would probably tow an entire lineup of m***tangs, and a
small village, just as fast.  I believe that, without excessive RPM,
big-block's with lots of torque just won't move those cars.  My friend
did this, resulting in an all-show-no-go machine.  He later dropped to a
'74 350 olds, ending up with more speed (I convinced him to 'settle' for
this option).  As for a '75 cutlass though, I hope to use some of my
motors torque.

Note, all who disagree may smite me privately or publicly, as these are
the things I believe.

On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 Daren@qconline.com wrote:

>
> OL>Olds content -> I'm not a huge performance freak, but when I get my '75
> OL>455 (stock) into my '75 cutlass, I'm sure I'll want to test it out, can
> OL>anyone tell me what I might do against a early '80's 5 leeter m***ang
> OL>(I'm not concerned overly either way, but enquiring minds DO want to
know). > > I had a '76 455 with a stock replacement melling cam & headers in
a '82 > cutlass with lousy 2.4? gears it ran 15.7 - 15.9 e.t. in 1/4 mile. You 
>
might get lucky against a early '80's r*stang with an automatic. > > Daren
'65 Dynamic "88" > > >

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:48:05 -0400
Subject: NOS Floor Mats For Sale (3/31)

I have the following Oldsmobile related items which I would like to
sell:

Miscellaneous NOS Oldsmobile Rear Floor Mats:

1. Medium gray rear rubber-vinyl floor mat pair for 1975 88 and 98.  P/N
982001.  NOS in battered original box, but one mat mouse chewed on one
edge.  $5.00, plus shipping cost.

2. Dark blue rear carpeted floor mat pair for unspecifed year(s) A-Body
cars.  P/N
995644.  NOS in battered original box, but one mat mouse chewed on one
corner.  $5.00, plus shipping costs.

3. Box says P/N 983035 - gold rear rubber-vinyl floor mat pair.  Mat is
actually a single full-width rear mat, in a brownish-gold color.  Number
moulded into back side of mat is 390805.  NOS in battered original box.
$5.00, plus shipping costs.

4. Dark pewter rear rubber-vinyl floor mat pair.  P/N 983311.
Unspecified year or application.  NOS in battered original box.  $5.00,
plus shipping costs.

(3/31/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
any of these mats, or if you would like additional information about any
of them.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:52:33 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobile (?) Tail Lamp Housing For Sale (4/1)

I have the following item for sale, which may or may not be Oldsmobile
related:

Unidentified 1973 right hand tail lamp housing for sale.  P/N 5965390,
which is not listed in my 1975 Oldsmobile Parts Book, so maybe it isn't
an Oldmobile part.  NOS in box.  April Fool's Day special: You pay the
$3.00 Priority Mail shipping cost to your address in the United States,
and I'll send it to you.

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 03:07:04 -0400
Subject: Re: 82 Cutlass/455 - was Re: Misc comments and feedback

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>
<snip>
 >
Eric,

I thought that when we separated from the British Empire we lost our
right to smite.  Isn't that outlawed by the Constitution just as are
letters of marque?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: joshstrub@csgnyc1.attmail.com (joshstrub)
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:52:58 -0400
Subject: T-tops

Are the T-tops on the 84 Hurst Olds different than the t-tops on a regular
Cutlass.

Josh

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:59:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear -ends....

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>

>I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that
>3.73's only came in the 8 1/2" size.  Are you sure they are for the
>smaller size?

The 3.73 that was standard in the Monte Carlo SS was not the 8.5"
but a 7.625".  Why they had to be different than Buick and Olds?
Who knows... :-)

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed (3.42 posi)
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:11:38 -0400
Subject: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

Hello everyone,

As some of you know, I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme convertible.  An old
friend of my father's who used to do some racing was sharing some of his
old tricks with me.  I think that some of these tricks have been forgotten.
Anyway, he told me I could shave a few seconds off my track times, with
simple bolt-ons!!

I didn't believe it either, but I was willing to try.  My previous best
time was about a 14.45.  After we made the change to my car, I ran a 11.97!
I lost 2.5 seconds!  What was the change, you ask?  The secret is in the
first generation Toronados.  Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67 Toro.

I don't even know what's in that rear-end.  I know that my Cutlass had the
standard 2.56 gears.  The difference in performance is like night and day.
And the swap was so easy.

My car was fun to drive before, but now it's undescribable.

I know this is a bold statement, but if you make this swap, there is just
no comparison in perfomance between a Toro rear-end and your current
rear-end.  Your times will change dramatically.

I look forward to passing more of these tips on in the future.

- --
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:18:29 -0400
Subject: Re: F-body knuckle swap into A-body; handling improvements

> >
> >Yes, HO Racing is no longer in parts-selling business but he now has
> >set up a tech-advice-only service (called something along the lines of
> >HO Enterprises).  I can dig up the phone number if anyone is
> >interested.  The parts he used to sell are now being distributed by
> >another company if anyone is interested in that too.
> >
> >Terrill
>
> Interested!!!

HO Enterprises - 888 703 4477
Malibu Performance - 818 222 6725 (selling most of the HO Racing
inventory)

Terrill

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:23:04 -0400
Subject: Question: Posting Olds events & clubs listings to newsgroup?

     There has been some discussion lately of looking for events and clubs
     by new memebrs to the group.

     If it is OK w/ the group, I could sent 2 posts:
     1) Event listing from Journey with Olds each month of upcoming OCA
        events nationwide.
     2) Chapter & Club listing from Journey with Olds each month.

     They each might be a long post of 3-5k.  Just checking first so not to
     get anyone irritated.  I promise, no .JPG or .GIF files ever, just the
     text.

     Thanks for the bandwidth.

      ---   Brad Nicholson   OCAª18984
     | | |  1987 442 W-42  ( Custard Yellow Primer )
     | | |  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
     |/|\|  (H) 76062.3042@compuserve.com
     | | |  (W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
      ---   Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:15:42 -0400
Subject: Attn. Maryland Olds Lovers - OCC Meeting 4/8/97

The THIRD OFFICIAL meeting of the Oldsmobile Centennial Club will be on
Tuesday, April 8, 1997 starting at 7PM.  The meeting will be held at :

ERNIE SWANSON OLDSMOBILE
410 N. CRAIN HIGHWAY, GLEN BURNIE, MD 21061-3009 Phone: (410) 768-8800
Fax: (410) 768-1948

All we ask is that you NOT park in front of the dealership as they will be
open. Please park to the right of the showroom, down in front of the
service bays, there is plenty of room.  We have a meeting room in the back
and to the left in the showroom building.  Someone will be in the showroom
to show you where the meeting is. We shouldn't run past 8:30PM.

If you know of anyone else who might be interested, and not on the
newsgroup, please pass the word along and or bring them with ya.  There are
23 current members in the club and 1 event has been scheduled ( the cruise
@ the Big M Drive-In in September), another on the drawing board and even a
picnic is in the works, along w/ a caravan to a local Oldsmobile event.
There is a wide variety of Oldsmobiles represented, add yours to the list.
We will be discussing caravan to Congressional Olds Show May 4, other local
events, club logo design , name the newsletter contest, Cruise Nite events
planning and whatever else comes up.

There is still the opportunity to be a founding father in a car club, as
anyone who joins before June 1 will be able to sign the bylaws.  Anyone who
joins this year will be considered a Charter Member.

Anyone interested in joining, or know of someone who might be interested,
drop me some e-mail.  I have directions to the meeting.  If you plan on
coming, please e-mail me so we have a head count for refreshments.

===========================================================================
CURRENT OCC MEMBERS - The newsletter is going in the mail today so look for
it this week!
===========================================================================

Thanks for the bandwidth.

 ---   Brad Nicholson   OCAª18984
| | |  1987 442 W-42  ( Custard Yellow Primer )
| | |  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
|/|\|  (H) 76062.3042@compuserve.com | | |  (W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
 ---   Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 04:24:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

Andrew A. Senko wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,

<snip>
>
> What was the change, you ask?  The secret is in the
> first generation Toronados.  Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
> Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67
Toro. > > I don't even know what's in that rear-end.  I know that my Cutlass
had the > standard 2.56 gears.  The difference in performance is like night
and day. > And the swap was so easy. > > My car was fun to drive before, but
now it's undescribable. > > I know this is a bold statement, but if you make
this swap, there is just > no comparison in perfomance between a Toro rear-end
and your current > rear-end.  Your times will change dramatically. > > I look
forward to passing more of these tips on in the future. > > -- >
_ >                     |\            Convertibles >
.__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko >
[   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net >
=\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva >
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

Drew,

You should get a free running rear out of a Toronado.  What is the
ratio; 1.00:0?  Why didn't you suggest the more modern W41 part or is it
too narrow for the Cutlass?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

Southern idiom:  Be advised: The "He needed killin'" defense is valid
here.

------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:31:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

On Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Andrew A. Senko wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> As some of you know, I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme convertible.  An old
> friend of my father's who used to do some racing was sharing some of his
> old tricks with me.  I think that some of these tricks have been forgotten.
> Anyway, he told me I could shave a few seconds off my track times, with
> simple bolt-ons!!
>
> I didn't believe it either, but I was willing to try.  My previous best
> time was about a 14.45.  After we made the change to my car, I ran a 11.97!
> I lost 2.5 seconds!  What was the change, you ask?  The secret is in the
> first generation Toronados.  Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
> Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67
Toro. > > I don't even know what's in that rear-end.  I know that my Cutlass
had the > standard 2.56 gears.  The difference in performance is like night
and day. > And the swap was so easy. > > My car was fun to drive before, but
now it's undescribable. > > I know this is a bold statement, but if you make
this swap, there is just > no comparison in perfomance between a Toro rear-end
and your current > rear-end.  Your times will change dramatically. > > I look
forward to passing more of these tips on in the future.

Well, since we're spilling our performance secrets, I have one to share:

Someone recently posted about an X crossover in the exhaust, which shaves
.5 seconds off of the 1/4 mile time.  Another exhaust upgrade will shave
another 1/2 second off - using '63 Ford Thunderbird muffler bearings.  I
know that alot of you will think I'm crazy for even suggesting putting a
Ford part on your Olds, but if you want to go fast, it's the only way to
fly!  The Ford muffler bearing is a full 1" larger in diameter, which
everyone know means quicker ET's!  You can try bearings from other years,
but from my experience, the '63 Tbird one is a direct bolt in and works
great!

I'm hoping with the X crossover, the fresh Tbird muffler bearings, and the
Toro rear that my '69 442 Convertible will be in the high 10's!  You can't
beat that, especially on regular pump gas!

The only drawback is that NHRA requires a rollbar in any convertible that
runs quicker than 14 seconds in the 1/4.  I guess I'll just hafta street
race it!  I might have to put on those 12" rotors to slow it down too...


- -Rod
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 04:30:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Question: Posting Olds events & clubs listings to newsgroup?

brad.nicholson@ssa.gov wrote:
>
>      There has been some discussion lately of looking for events and clubs
>      by new memebrs to the group.
>
>      If it is OK w/ the group, I could sent 2 posts:
>      1) Event listing from Journey with Olds each month of upcoming OCA
>         events nationwide.
>      2) Chapter & Club listing from Journey with Olds each month.
>
>      They each might be a long post of 3-5k.  Just checking first so not to
>      get anyone irritated.
>
>       ---   Brad Nicholson

Brad,

I get JWO, but I believe that it would be of value to the list.  It may
even get some people interested in a fine club.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

Southern idiom: If you are invited to a southern bridal shower go ahead
and purchase the baby gift.  They will need it in six or seven months.

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:31:30 -0400
Subject: Looking for SSI wheels

Hi All,

I have friend who does not have access to e-mail yet who is looking for
a set of SSI wheels for his 70 W-31 4/SP if any one has a set they want
to part with let me know.


John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32
70 Cuda 383 Convt.

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:39:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Supercharger

Oldoldsguy@AOL.COM wrote:

> an original (and rare) X car.  Buy a $200 post coupe and go crazy!   I am

What do you mean by "Buy a $200 post coupe?"  Some of us who have post
coupes
would not go crazy with them and like them very much, thank you.

> disturbed that no one else on the list has attempted to educate you on this
> subject.  As a serious Oldsmobile collector, I'm offended by the lack of
> response from this

I feel that any serious collector would not disrespect any model,
post/hardtop/
whatever...

Chris Sparks
68 442 (Has a post and will use it when necessary)

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:35:00 -0400
Subject: 72 W30

Aaron R. Weimer wrote:
     Olds engines are noted for low RPM and very High Torque.. A stock 442
W30 in
'70 has 500lb torque.  My 72 with a few mods is at 593-620ft/lb and 482 hp..
Not bad.. I am looking to install a supercharger this summer.. I think I am
going to go with a intake manifold charger.  The paxton/vortech belt driven
are just to much money for the power.  For about 1500 bux I can add a
5-10psi
boost and 120-190hp to this bad boy.. Look out chevy lovers.. and this will
all fit under the stock W30 hood.. what a sleeper it will be.  I just need
to
figure out how to quite the exhaust before I scare them all away ..
hehehehe..

>>Aaron, which cam, converter, gears, etc are you using?  I'm collecting
data for an >>upcoming 70 Cutlass S post bracket car project (455/TH400)

*************************************************************
John Pajak     "DR. OLDS"
Lexington Park, MD
Pajak_John%PAX1@MR.NAWCAD.NAVY.MIL

65 Delta 88
66 Toronado
69 Cutlass S
70 Cutlass S W31
70 Cutlass S (post)
70 442 W30 convert
72 442 W30 convert
72 Delta 88 convert
+ others

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:40:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Amazement

Hi all,

I just saw Fargo the other day and notice that this show had an
abundance of Oldmobiles in it, new ones of course.  I was amazed.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:54:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Chicagoland BOP Swap Meet Get Together This Sunday

  Jeff,



  What time does the swap meet start?  Any idea how many venders will be
there?


  Thanks.


  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:53:06 -0400
Subject: Re:455 Toro Rod Bolts & 442 Headers

   Some time ago I picked up a '68 455 that was stuffed in a '65 Cutlass.  I
finally got around to inspecting the bottom end and discovered that the rod
bolts had 12 point nuts on them.  The block and intake numbers match a
'68-'69 Toro(I haven't checked the heads yet) and the crank has the large
"N" for nodular on it.  As I've never seen factory 12 point nuts on rods
before, I'm wondering if they are aftermarket or was there an option for a
beefed-up bottom end for Toro's?  Also, has anyone tried putting headers on
a 455 in a '65 442 with a 4-speed?  I don't want to "alter" any sheetmetal
in the process.


  Thanks.



  Paul Brillhart
  '65 442 4-speed
  '67 442 auto

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:55:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Question

Mike Rothe,

> originality doesn't count]. (One good thing.  The spindles for either
> type is the same part number.  Don't let anyone tell you different.  So
> you don't even have to take the ball joints loose!)

Would it be safe to say that the spindles for a 68 442 with power drum
brakes
would not have to be replaced if I go to disc brakes?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:08:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Bodies

Hi all,

Excuse my ignorance but I am still confused as to what the differences
are between an "A" body car, "G" body car, "F" body car, etc.  Could
I get some clarification please.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "John M. Barnes" <CHMPFISH@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:11:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
>
>
> Drew,
>
> You should get a free running rear out of a Toronado.  What is the
> ratio; 1.00:0?  Why didn't you suggest the more modern W41 part or is it
> too narrow for the Cutlass?
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
>
> Southern idiom:  Be advised: The "He needed killin'" defense is valid
> here.


Ya know, running that fast is bound to cause some over heating problems. My
Granpappy used to use a 64 Volkwagen radiator on his Olds. Works real good
and is cheap too.

John

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:22:16 -0400
Subject: Re: No Subject

In a message dated 3/30/97 8:41:35 PM, you wrote:

<<I need almost the whole interior for a 1970 cutlass conv. also a hood and
trunk lid as  well as a rear bumper. If you would let me know whats available
I would appreciate it.
Thanks Rick York
Boise, Id     208-389-1210
>>

SEE HTTP://WWW.THEHOST.COM/BROTHERS    HOPE THIS HELPS!

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:23:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

Am I missing something here.


How do you put a front drive Toro unit into a rear drive Cutlass ????????

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:18:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Underhood Lights

>For quite some time this has been puzzling me. My 70 442 has the
>underhood light wired into the parking light, while my 70 Cutlass
>Supreme light comes on whenever the hood is opened. I am the second
>owner of each of these cars and have discussed this with each of the
>original owners. Each maintains that each of the cars were delivered
>this way. Seems like the norm for the 442, but what about the Cutlass?

I haven't checked this on a car older than a '77, so this is kind of a
guess, but I'd say one of them might be a dealer installation. Try
checking where the wire links up with the harness. The factory setup,
at least on more recent cars, would go to a molded in-line connector
in the vicinity of the master cylinder, and the brown wire of the hood
light plugs into another length of brown wire at that point, which
disappears into the wiring harness. That's the setup for a hood lamp
that comes on with parking lights. Where your Supreme light is wired
in I don't know, but maybe the dealer just ran it to the nearest hot
lead.

(Somewhere in my basement I have a great little factory package of a
glove box lamp, two different connectors and a big instruction sheet
showing how the thing is to be installed... all in its own little
box... major attention to detail. :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:41:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Bodies

Hi Chris
    each GM car platform has a letter designation

  "A"  Cutlass 1962 - 1980 also chevelle skylark lemans
  "A"  Cutlass Ciera  1982 -------
  "G"  Cutlass RWD 1981-1988
  "F" Non Olds  was Firebird & Camaro
   "E" Toronados ---  Rivieras & Elderados
   "W" FWD Cutlass 1988- 1996  Grand Prix Buick Regal
   "B" Oldsmobile  88 Series cars
   "C" Oldsmobile  98 Series cars
    "X" Oldsmobile Omegas
    "N" Calias & Achieva
    "J" Firenza
    "h" Starfire   (mid to lates 70's)


Everett

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:47:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Anti Roll Bars



------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:10:00 -0400
Subject: Re: rear gears

Barnicle Bill- the 3.73 rear ratio was also put in the MonteSS from 85-88
using the 7.625" rear. Like I said before, the SS had a 7.5/7.625" and the GN/
442 had the 8.5". The GN had a 3.42 ratio and the 442/SS has 3.73 ratio(when
itwas equipped w/ the od trans)





=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:55:03 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Bad Rings

Trak-Auto also stocks the areas largest selection of cheap chrome exhaust
tips! Careful, they might suggest duct taping their Slick-50 plug wires to
those injection pump nozzles!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get a copy for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------

David,

I want some of the naket lady license plate frames, how much too expensive
are they.  I already have a diesel distributor on my work bench as we speak.
The funny thing about that distributor is that it uses little pipes instead
of wires.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:49:43 -0400
Subject: Re: 502 swap into '71 cutlass

In a message dated 3/31/97 5:27:50 PM, you wrote:

<<I just blew up my 350 trying to see how fast my car would go.  I got to
128>>

That 502 will probably be enough to get you going Stupidsonic.....

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:55:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 502 swap into '71 cutlass

In a message dated 3/31/97 6:54:46 PM, you wrote:

<<Anyone on the list put a DRCE Olds engine in their street car?  Just
curious....>>

Check with Ron Pratt in the lansing MI area!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 06:06:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

Rod Rickenbach wrote:
>
<snip>
>
> Well, since we're spilling our performance secrets, I have one to share:
>
> Someone recently posted about an X crossover in the exhaust, which shaves
> .5 seconds off of the 1/4 mile time.  Another exhaust upgrade will shave
> another 1/2 second off - using '63 Ford Thunderbird muffler bearings.  I
> know that alot of you will think I'm crazy for even suggesting putting a
> Ford part on your Olds, but if you want to go fast, it's the only way to
> fly!  The Ford muffler bearing is a full 1" larger in diameter, which
> everyone know means quicker ET's!  You can try bearings from other years,
> but from my experience, the '63 Tbird one is a direct bolt in and works
> great!

> -Rod
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- >     Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech >
rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department >
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

Rod,

Do you have a part ª for that?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

Southern idiom: East Texas Burglar Alarm;  The "chick-chuck" of a 12
gauge pump.  This is one of the few burglar alarms that is more alarming
to the burglar than the resident.

------------------------------

From: Scott Porter <n1sp@adam.cheshire.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:40:32 -0400
Subject: 85 Toronado Heater

Hello,
I have an 85 Toronado. The body is in great shape, but with 168K miles
it's getting a bit tired, and some of the systems are going south.
The one that's really bugging me is the heater. It is on constantly. The
vaccuum is lost to the valve on the engine block that controls the flow of
water to the heater core. The quick and dirty solution is to apply vaccum
to the valve, disableing it in the summer.
I have seen this problem before with other GM heater that are the automatic
vaccuum controlled type. I don't see why they couldn't keep the positive
mechanical cable!
But I have yet to see any of my freinds solve the problem right. Most just
shut the system down in the summer and let it run in the winter....
As this is a very common problem with GM's automatic heaters. Has anyone
got a cheap way for me to troubleshoot and fix this? (I'm sure the dealers
would love to charge me $50 an hour plus $300 in parts to fix it!)
Thanks for the help!
Scott Porter in snowy NH!

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:22:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED

In a message dated 4/1/97 2:22:09 AM, you wrote:

<<On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:

> 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED.  ALSO, WANTED, A TICK TOC TACH FOR A 69 442.>>

see http://www.thehost.com/brothers   thay have your air cleaner!

------------------------------

From: "blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:21:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Bodies

- ---------
> From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
> Date: Tuesday, April 01, 1997 8:41 AM
>     "X" Oldsmobile Omegas

Wouldn't this "X" style designation apply also to Buick Apollo's, Pontiac
Ventura's (& GTO's?), & Chevy Nova's?  They all share the same body (with
the possible exception of the GTO's & Nova's -- I haven't closely compared
them with the Omega, Apollo, or Ventura -- but they look similar).

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:33:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

In a message dated 97-04-01 09:24:46 EST, you write:

<< I know this is a bold statement, but if you make this swap, there is just
 no comparison in perfomance between a Toro rear-end and your current
 rear-end.  Your times will change dramatically.

 I look forward to passing more of these tips on in the future.
  >>
How do you put a front wheel drive trans in a rear wheel drive car, unless
you put the 455 in the trunk and hook up the trans.  sounds like its getting
deep here

W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:33:04 -0400
Subject: Re: chevy 502 into olds reply

In a message dated 4/1/97 4:19:06 AM, you wrote:

<<In order to protect yourself from all the purists out there and still be
able to experience the gut-wrenching torque of 500+ inches, why don't you
build a 510c.i. OLDS and put it in your cutlass.  It can be done and I
believe it will cost less than a 502 crate motor.  If you want to discuss
further e-mail me at docolds@megavision.com.  LATER docolds.>>

Vollbracht knows what he is talking about....ask and
learn....remenber....supersonic is better than stupidsonic any day!

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:35:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips  ---fools, etc.

That's Great Drew,

ROTFLMAO

Oh, BTW, I was cleaning up the living room the other day, and I found a
few things which some of you might want, I seem to have no need for them.

'71 W-30 4-bbl carb.  hmm, I'll take 5 bucks for it,  :-)
? W-30 "F" heads for big block... these oughta' be worth at least 10
bucks!  :-)

Complete trim for '58 Super 88, still in original GM boxes.  Well, its
pretty old, and I hate to part with it, so I'll take 5 bucks for it.  :-)

The only 1982 H/O, hmm, complete car... I'll take $500 for it...   :-)

Happy April 1st!!!!!!!!!!   :-)   :-)   :-)

Anon III



On Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Andrew A. Senko wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> As some of you know, I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme convertible.  An old
> friend of my father's who used to do some racing was sharing some of his
> old tricks with me.  I think that some of these tricks have been forgotten.
> Anyway, he told me I could shave a few seconds off my track times, with
> simple bolt-ons!!
>
> I didn't believe it either, but I was willing to try.  My previous best
> time was about a 14.45.  After we made the change to my car, I ran a 11.97!
> I lost 2.5 seconds!  What was the change, you ask?  The secret is in the
> first generation Toronados.  Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
> Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67
Toro. > > I don't even know what's in that rear-end.  I know that my Cutlass
had the > standard 2.56 gears.  The difference in performance is like night
and day. > And the swap was so easy. > > My car was fun to drive before, but
now it's undescribable. > > I know this is a bold statement, but if you make
this swap, there is just > no comparison in perfomance between a Toro rear-end
and your current > rear-end.  Your times will change dramatically. > > I look
forward to passing more of these tips on in the future. > > -- >
_ >                     |\            Convertibles >
.__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko >
[   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net >
=\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva >
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________ >
 >

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:41:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear -ends....

Here's a question that I should know, but...

What size rear end do I have?  Mine is the original 2.41:1 in an '84
Cutlass Supreme.  It's a "lame-leg" rear end, so I might (when I can
afford it... tax return here I come...) be considering swapping it out for
a slightly higher (numerically) posi unit.  Any suggestions... I'm trying
to keep decent gas mileage, but would like a bit more low end power.  My
car has (as most of you probably know by now) a '74 350 4bbl. and  TH375.

Thanks for any help,
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.


On Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:

> From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
>
> >I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that
> >3.73's only came in the 8 1/2" size.  Are you sure they are for the
> >smaller size?
>
> The 3.73 that was standard in the Monte Carlo SS was not the 8.5"
> but a 7.625".  Why they had to be different than Buick and Olds?
> Who knows... :-)
>
> -Jeff
> jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
>
> 1970 442  4-Speed (3.42 posi)
> see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton
>
>

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:29:58 -0400
Subject: Southern Idioms

Thanks to Bill, I have another reason to anticipate reading the mail
from this list.  Keep 'em coming Bill!

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:47:29 -0400
Subject: Re: RIMS/TIRES

At 02:47 AM 3/31/97 -0400, you wrote:
>            Hello.  My name is Enio, I'm new to this group.  I have a 1987
>Olds. Cutlass Sup. V-8,  307ci.  Can anyone tell me how big I can go on Rim &
>Tire size without rubbing.
>Please E-mail me at NjOlds@aol.com.
>
>
 Enio,

     First of all let me say, nice car! I have an '87 Cutlass Supreme also.
Secondly, I have put on P245/60R14
Goodyear Eagle ST's on mine and they don't rub at all. I don't know how
serious you want to go? My tires are only an inch wider than the ones I had
on there before but I can tell a difference. I have actually been looking to
putting on some 16" wheels and tires one of these days but I'm still doing
some research on what is involved. I know in the Sept. 1996 issue of Hot Rod
Magazine, they put on some 16*8" wheels on an '87 Monte Carlo SS so maybe
there is hope.

See Ya',

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 14:01:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

>Hello everyone,
>
>As some of you know, I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme convertible.  An old
>friend of my father's who used to do some racing was sharing some of his
>old tricks with me.  I think that some of these tricks have been forgotten.
>Anyway, he told me I could shave a few seconds off my track times, with
>simple bolt-ons!!
>
>I didn't believe it either, but I was willing to try.  My previous best
>time was about a 14.45.  After we made the change to my car, I ran a 11.97!
>I lost 2.5 seconds!  What was the change, you ask?  The secret is in the
>first generation Toronados.  Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
>Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67
Toro. > >I don't even know what's in that rear-end.  I know that my Cutlass
had the >standard 2.56 gears.  The difference in performance is like night and
day. >And the swap was so easy. > >My car was fun to drive before, but now
it's undescribable. > >I know this is a bold statement, but if you make this
swap, there is just >no comparison in perfomance between a Toro rear-end and
your current >rear-end.  Your times will change dramatically. > >I look
forward to passing more of these tips on in the future. > >-- >
_ >                    |\            Convertibles >
.__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko >
[   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net >
=\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
>_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

Well,

These are the kind of speed secrets that are rarely discussed in public. If
everyone was running in the high 10's, the big guys would start to worry.
It is well known that most american cars are capable of 0-60 mph in about 5
seconds. Most people just don't know how to tune very well. Throw in some
new spark plugs, rotor, and dist. cap and set the timing. This is about as
far as some people will go.

Alot of people I talk to have never even tried simple speed tricks. Hood
locks for example. My all time favorites tho involve items that you can
find laying around the kitchen. Most people just won't take the time. For
example, a beer can is the most overlooked item. You won't see them being
used often just because people would rather "buy" something like a blower
instead of spending a day in the workshop.

Take almost any American beer can. 12 oz for small blocks; 16 oz. for big
blocks (although I've seen good results from both if you know what your
doing). Cut the top and bottom off the can, removing as little of the side
wall as possible. Make sure the top and bottom are parallel. Smooth the top
and bottom edge now, since it is easier that trying to smooth it later. Now
cut the can straight down the side. You have to get this perpendicular to
the bottom and top edges. You can pretty much make your cut anywhere since
99% of the beer cans now are extruded and don't have a seam.

Remove your air filter and air filter shrouding. Place the can around the
lip of the carburator. You will notice that the can will not fit all the
way around. Place the vertical opening DIRECTLY forward and centered.
Carefully lay your service manual on the can. The rigidity of the sides
will hold up the manual, and the weight of the manual will hold the can in
place. Now braze the can to the carburator.

DONE! You just gained about 25% more horsepower and about 10% better gas
mileage.

Throw away, or better yet, recycle the old parts with someone trying to
restore a similar car. Wouldn't want to lose these parts that are getting
rarer every year!

Enjoy!




*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:00:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

In a message dated 4/1/97 2:24:46 PM, you wrote:

<<Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67
Toro.>>

I heard if you removed third gear from a turbo 400 that the resulting weight
savings will shave 6-8 seconds of your quarter mile time as well.....

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:03:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Shave 2 seconds off your timeslips

In a message dated 4/1/97 2:24:46 PM, you wrote:

<<Everyone knows those cars were extremely fast.
Well, we replaced the rear-end on my Cutlass with the rear-end from a 67
Toro.>>

I heard if you removed third gear from a turbo 400 that the resulting weight
savings will shave 6-8 seconds of your quarter mile time as well.....

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:05:30 -0400
Subject: Re: More on the Knuckle Sandwich

I _thought_ we discussed this awhile back. Couple of new items
1) I chased down a lead on 70 rotors in Florida at Pep Boys and it turned
out that either I had the wrong message or the store did. They turned out
to be mid80's 98 rotors. I can't imagine these would swap back
2) I haven't found disc brake spindles, etc. all that rare at all in
the SF Bay area. I probably come across a good set every other time I
hit the 6 self service yards on my regular run. What's hard is rotors
that are good. You need a micrometer to measure 'em which costs about
$130 from what I know. I haven't decided it makes sense to get a $130
tool to measure $60 (for the pair) rotors, maybe I will give in soon.
3) If your local store can get these rotors that would solve a major
concern of mine. Let me know if you're successful and tell them you
have another set sold if they're correct.
4) I know a bit about the yards in LA too. When I lived there my
regular run was Pacoima, Sun Valley, Wilmington, Anaheim and sometimes
way out east to Santa Fe Springs. If you need addresses or numbers, I
have some of them. I was just there a few weeks ago for fun and hit
all my old yards. Didn't find too much, but it was fun.
5) Didja go with the proportioning valve from Wilwood? I recall that
being about $40 or so.

Anyway good luck on the spindle pull, it can be scary when the ball
joints pop. Be careful, as someone on the list said recently, these
are among the parts that "will gleefully kill you".

cf

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:08:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for SSI wheels

In a message dated 4/1/97 2:50:21 PM, you wrote:

<<I have friend who does not have access to e-mail yet who is looking for
a set of SSI wheels for his 70 W-31 4/SP if any one has a set they want
to part with let me know.>>

John I have some-$75 each-hope this helps!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª588
********************************
