To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #548


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 4 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 548

Re: 64 Vista Cruiser
1970 rear cutlass bumper
Re: turbos/RPM stress
Re: Wiper adjustment
[none]
Re: Silicone Brake Fluid?
'67 442 for sale
Oldsmobiles for sale...
HELP
7.5" rear end build up
[none]
1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Turbos & Heat
Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: 455 What?(meaningless midadventure)
Re: 1970 rear cutlass bumper
Re: still looking
Parts Wagon
Re: Turbos & Heat
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Re: 455 What?(meaningless midadventure)
64 Vista Cruiser
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Olds Enthusist
Re: 64 Vista Cruiser
Re: Wiper adjustment
Re: 455 What?(meaningless midadventure) :-)
re: 66 F85
1970 Cutlass
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Re: Rejected and Despondent Car Owner (was: Where Olds is today)
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Re: Olds 425
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Re: Disc brakes
Need Some Advice
New Hot Rod
Re: Disc brakes
Re: 1970 Cutlass
RE: floor pans
[none]
Re: '67 442 for sale
Re: Parts Wagon
Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe
Subscribe
Re: 442 W-Dirty
Rejected and Despondent Car Owner (was: Where Olds is today)
Silicone Brake Fluid?
T-3's
Re:
Orig AM radio 4 sale
Re: Turbos & Heat
Re: Wiper adjustment
What's an EFI intake cost
Re: Disc brakes
Re: Free Cars....
Re: 7.5" rear end build up
Re: Silicone Brake Fluid?
Re: Wiper adjustment

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:24:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 64 Vista Cruiser

>> **************************************
>> Daniel A. Gulino
>> gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
>> http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
>> 1975 Delta 88 Convertible
>> **************************************
>
>Would this info be in the door jam???
>
>

No, it's usually on the firewall.

Anon. I

------------------------------

From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@quix.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:35:43 -0400
Subject: 1970 rear cutlass bumper

anybody need a nice driver type bumper. excellent, very straight? $80.00 as
is, $210.00 show chrome plated. more info.     maldana@quix.net      thanks
mike

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:37:58 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stress

>  An extremely abbreviated history of the GMC supercharger ---  The first
>designs were used to ventilate mine shafts during the 19th century, and the
>GMC superchargers that we are all familiar with today were first used on=
 six
>cylinder detroit two cycle diesle engines to scavenge exhaust gases.
>

The GM 2-cycle diesel engine was acquired when GM bought the Cleveland
Engine Co, ca. 1929.  The principal assets of the Cleveland Engine Co.
centered around a 2-stroke diesel engine.  This engine, the version commonly
found in trucks, today; is called a Detroit-Diesel-Allison product.

However, the first of the GM'ed engines were used in locomotives, not the
6-71 automotive engine.  So wouldn't it be more apt to say that these GM
superchargers were first used on the prime movers in EMD diesel locomotives?=
 =20

I like to have my facts straight, and the above is partly conjecture,
acquired many years ago, and therefore, subject to much forgetfullness.  So
to the more knowledgeable please add as many 2=A2 worth as the list can=
 handle.

A typical 6-71 has four valves per cylinder, all intake; and is usually
rated at 238 hp, I think at about 2800 RPM.  It was the engine that put
diesel power on the road, although Catapilar, Cummins and others had diesel
motors available for truck usage too.  And yes, while the supercharger does
provide some inlet boost, it's primarly there for exhaust scavenging.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:41:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiper adjustment

At 08:09 PM 3/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>My windshield wipers are resting about 3 inches high on the windshield
>when in the "park" position.  I believe they should be on the cowl and
>out-of-site.  Any advice on how to adjust these?
>
>Thanks
>
>Craig Smith
>68 442
>
The little post that sticks thru the cowl, and retain the wiper arms are
reeded (like the edge of a coin) and make the wipers easily adjustable.
With the wipers at rest, remove the arms, and replace them in the position
desired.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Bruce Woods <executivesearch@mymail.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:55:00 -0400
Subject: [none]

I am getting 100's of email. I don't even own an olds. Some how I got on your
list by enquiring about one. Please, take me off if you will. This is tying
my search practice up. Please let me know you received this. Thanks so much.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:58:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid?

At 02:05 AM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Anyone out there try silicone brake fuild?
>
>I am doing a frame off resto. The car will not be driven much except to
>show and limited street driving.
>
>I've heard varying reports, like it doesn't seal well, doesn't stop well,
>etc only advantage is it doesn't retain water.
>
>What's been your experience???
>
>Any brand preferences?
>
>Jeff
>
>
The military has gone to it 100%  A few years ago, however, I was talking on
the phone to tech people at Wagner brake, and they said do not use it under
any circumstances.  It attacks rubber.  You cnanot be sure that your brake
system does not have rubber parts in it; so came their recomendation.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:52:57 -0400
Subject: '67 442 for sale

Just in case anyone is interested...

OLDS--'67 442, straight orig. body, excel. interior, runs great, needs
paint. Too many new parts to list. $3500/OBO. Call 540-972-7212
This ad first appeared in The Washington Post February 28, 1997.

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 13:08:06 -0400
Subject: Oldsmobiles for sale...

I tried to send this yesterday, but our out-going mail was broke so it didn't
get through...

I found the following cars and parts advertised in "The Round-up
Magazine" over the weekend (there were others, but these were the only
ones that weren't extremely over-priced):

Cars
- -------
1.   '62 & '63 Olds Starfires.  Western rust free, orig. and restorable, '62
is Wedgewood Metallic, '63 is Antique Rose, loaded, delivery available. $2900
ea.  330-759-3745 or 330-544-0242  Youngstown, OH

2.  '69 Olds 442.  Extremely solid CA car, the real thing for a sacrifice
price, can help arrange delivery.  $2000.  714-970-2176.  Yorba Linda, CA

3.  '55 Olds 2dr, h/t, motor stuck, p/s, p/b, p/w, Wonderbar, complete.
$800.  After 6pm  612-888-5609.  Minneapolis, MN

Parts
- --------
1.  Carburetor for '67 Toronado,  carb ª7027131, r/b, $50.  614-885-2809.
Columbus, OH

2.  Parting out '49 Olds & Chevy.  Mostly Olds parts, some NOS.
330-887-5079.  Seville, OH

3.  Various '53 Olds parts.  p/s unit, complete w/column & wheel, $175;
p/b unit w/tank, $95;  autronic eye, $125;  windshied, tinted, $150;  rear
glass, $150;  hood, $175;  trunk lid, $75;  radiator, $75;  eng 303 4bbl,
$475.  502-737-5138.  Elizabethtown, KY

------------------------------

From: Bruce Woods <executivesearch@mymail.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 13:20:58 -0400
Subject: HELP

Did you receieve my message saying I was receiving all your
emails, 100's of them. Please, take me off your list or
change whatever you need to change. This isn't helping you
and it is overwhelming me. Please let me know you have
receieved this. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 13:15:48 -0400
Subject: 7.5" rear end build up

Hey everyone,

 This summer I plan on building up the rear end in my '87 Cutlass Supreme.
Can anyone give me some information on this rear end? I want to put in a
good limited slip unit? Any suggestions on what kind? Also plan on changing
to 3.73:1 rear gears. Will these be fairly good on gas mileage with the
overdrive tranny? What is the ratio I have now?
 Sorry if I sound dumb about this subject but I'm not really educated on
rear ends, but I want to be! Thanks in advance!

Andy Geeting

'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth wagon

------------------------------

From: "Timothy A. Churchill" <tac3550@egbsun1.draper.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 13:33:43 -0400
Subject: [none]

> I am getting 100's of email. I don't even own an olds. Some how I got on
your list by > enquiring about one. Please, take me off if you will. This is
tying my search practice up. > Please let me know you received this. Thanks
so much.

A good example of why we shouldn't assume ignorance and take a "Serves
'em right if they can't unsubscribe" attitude on this list, folks...



Tim (Peace on Earth, Good Oil in Olds) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 13:34:46 -0400
Subject: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

Olds Techs;
I am considering buying the following vehicle:

1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

I have listed everything I can think of about the car below.  If you
could please be so kind as to evaluate my information and then give me
an opinion of the car and also what you think should be the offering
price.  I would be greatly appreciative.

2nd and 3rd digits - Series -
36 = Cutlass V8 (1967-71)
Above Not Relevent (Originally had a 350)

4th and 5th digits - Body code -
87 = 2d Holiday coupe
6th dlglt - Model year -
9 = 1969
7th digit - Assembly plant -
1 = Oshawa, ON Canada

Here is the VIN specs on the body.

It has a 455 BB '72-'76 Castingª Fa

I do not know what heads are on it.  I do have the full castingª of the
engine, but not on me at the moment (I believe it started with a 3).

The trans is a TH400 3 Speed Auto

The gears are stock at probably 2.73 or 3.08.

The rims are I believe original, but if not they at least match.

The body is medium dented in the doors.  There are average dings
throughout.  The hood is in very good shape except for a serious crack
in the front about 3in. long.


The paint is Electric Blue and is in decent condition.  There is no rust
through on the entire car except a small portion on the right rear wheel
well.  There is some very minor surface rust patches in the trunk floor
and along the C posts and roof.

I went down to look at it this weekend and drove it around.  The engine
was very clean and ran smooth.  There were no strange odors or
discolored smoke from the pipes. The trans shifted very smoothly (I
could barely even feel it go into third).  I don't know the mileage on
the motor because it is not the original.  The interior seats are that
of a Camaro.  The car has been fortunate enough to be converted from a
column shifter to a floor shifter of which the brand I do not know but I
suspect a Camaro. It has the silver and black console and a wooden ball
handle on the shifter itself.  The interior is clean and has no rips.
The header panel need replaced.  Tires are in good shape.  The chrome is
in decent condition.  The defrosters do not work due to the fact there
is no ductwork underneath the dash (I don't know why, but my guess it
was taken out when the motor was swapped.)  The manual windows have
trouble going up and down but they do function.


P.S.  I realize this car has a serious identity problem.

Thank You for your time.

Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 08:57:32 -0400
Subject: Turbos & Heat

> You are correct in that pressure is indeed the mechanism
> that drives the turbo.  However, to utilize any signifigant
> amout of pressure from the engine you need the heat.
> Temperature is a measure of extra enery in a given system.
> i.e.  The more heat you have the more energy you have.
> This extra energy(heat) causes the air to expand, therefore
> giving the air a greater presure to drive the turbo.  Which

When is exhaust gas at its highest temperature?  I'd say right about when
it is formed, immediately following combustion of the intake charge.  From
this point onward (excluding things like catalytic converters which
catalyse reactions that produce heat), the exhaust gas temperature would
appear to decrease.  The heat of combustion has already resulted in
extremely rapid expansion of a gas within the engine; in an exhaust system,
what are the potential energy sources that can induce post combustion
expansion?  No one denies that heat is energy.  The question is how to
make use of this heat.  In an Olds engine, a fraction of the heat of
combustion is transferred to the mechanical motion of the piston,
connecting rod and so forth.  When air is heated, it usually rises;
witness the prevalence of late afternoon thunderstorms on hot summer
days.  It is unlikely that convection currents would be responsible for
driving a turbocharger.  Someone mentioned that the design within a turbo
similar to a turbine.  There are no apparent sources of energy in the
exhaust system that would result in an expanding gas to drive a turbine.
Can a turbine be made to run on a contracting gas?

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Anti-HT movement <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 13:56:59 -0400
Subject: Re: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

>You are correct in that pressure is indeed the mechanism
>that drives the turbo.  However, to utilize any signifigant
>amout of pressure from the engine you need the heat.
>Temperature is a measure of extra enery in a given system.
>i.e.  The more heat you have the more energy you have.
>This extra energy(heat) causes the air to expand, therefore
>giving the air a greater presure to drive the turbo.  Which
>gives you a greater amount of boost than you would otherwise
>have.  :)

first law of thermo for a control volume.
Jeff

------------------------------

From: Anti-HT movement <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:00:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 What?(meaningless midadventure)

At 12:02 PM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 10:27 AM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>>I got to the guy's trailer, saw a black `74 cutlass sitting next to a
>>>bulldozer that had a tarp covering a big lump at the front of the blade.
>>>The guy pulled the tarp back and there was a huge completely red engine.

Sounds like a true REDNCK!

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:05:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 1970 rear cutlass bumper

Mike Aldana wrote:
>
> anybody need a nice driver type bumper. excellent, very straight? $80.00 as
> is, $210.00 show chrome plated. more info.     maldana@quix.net      thanks
> mike


Anyone got a good, straight and re-chromed '70 front bumper?

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: Junior627@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:08:48 -0400
Subject: Re: still looking

you dont have to buy it i just checking prices for now...but thanx a lot...

junior627@aol.com
Nicolo A. Michelli Jr.
1985 Delta 88
v6 231 3.8 L

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:13:44 -0400
Subject: Parts Wagon

I got this 'story' and parts offer -  don't know if anyone out there is
interested, but will post here in case you know someone who might be:

The story begins in 1988--my first car, given to me by a family friend, is a
1963 Olds Dynamic 88 Station wagon.  It didn't run, looked like hell, but I
loved it.  Being from a do-it-yourself kinda family, I did all the work on it
myself(that, and the fact that I was always poor!).
I replaced the original 394 cu.in. motor and trans with a later model Buick
455
and turbo 400.  I manufactured my own motor and trans mount system to
accomodate
the newer-style stuff.  The few people I had a chance to talk to that knew
anything about Olds's said I did a pretty good job because I didn't have to
pound the firewall at all.

Long story short, I was in the process of attempting a really good
restore/custom job on this wagon, when a week after I primered the outside of
the car someone decided to broad-side me at 50 mph.  Needless to say, there's
not much of a competition when a brand new Nissan Altima decides to start a
fight with a real Detroit steel wagon(he hit me directly under the drivers
door,
but even the rolled-down window didn't break!).
The other car was decimated, but alas, the wagon took a mighty blow.

What I would like to do is provide a decent burial for my car, by allowing
all
of her parts to go to people who care for/want them.  I'm keeping the
engine and
trans.(less than 5k on a never-been-bored-out 455!), but all the rest is
for the
taking.
I don't want to assume that you have any more free time than I have, but I
figured you would be the best person to spread the news.  I'm in
California(Bay
Area), my e-mail is: Chris_perumean@ccm.sc.intel.com, and I would truly
appreciate it if you could help me spread the word.  Please don't hesitate to
e-mail me at any time with any questions, comments, or anything else.

------------------------------

From: Death <dldeathe@mail.pittstate.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:21:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Turbos & Heat

>
> When is exhaust gas at its highest temperature?  I'd say right about when
> it is formed, immediately following combustion of the intake charge.  From
> this point onward (excluding things like catalytic converters which
> catalyse reactions that produce heat), the exhaust gas temperature would
> appear to decrease.



In an exhaust system the surrounding material would absorb
some of the extra heat given off by the exhaust gasses. That
is until the temperature of this material has equalized, at
least partially, with the surrounding gasses. At this point,
this section of the combustion system has found a point of
equilibrium in temperature.  So then, as long as the engine
were to stay running then the exhuast gasses could only
lose as much energy(heat) as the surrounding material could
transfer it: and since the surrounding material is much
denser than said air mass, then it would lose or transfer
heat much more slowly.
Given this information, it would logically dictate
that much of the energy(heat) supplied by combustion would
remain to keep the air "charged" or in a state of expansion
in volume. Furthermore, this would also suggest to me that
since this temperature is much higher that the air before
entering the engine that the turbo would have plenty of
expanded gasses, and decreases the worry about decreasing
gasses.

------------------------------

From: Death <dldeathe@mail.pittstate.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:25:54 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

> The defrosters do not work due to the fact there
> is no ductwork underneath the dash (I don't know why, but my guess it
> was taken out when the motor was swapped.)



I have the same problem in my 1971 Cutlass Supreme.
If someone could tell me where I could find suitable
replcements I would be very grateful.

Dan Deatherage

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 05:36:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 What?(meaningless midadventure)

>Yow! Let me get this straight: You have this humongous engine sitting
>_on_the_ground_ and he wants to start it?

No, actually, I wanted to start it.  And it was sitting on a tire on the
ground so it wouldn't rust. :)

> I don't think I'd care to have
>that much self-propelled mass bouncing around under its own power,
>thankyouverymuch, even if it is more-or-less balanced. (I would, however,
>probably pay money for a video of it. :-)

Don't pay to see it it isn't very exiting, just loud.  Then again, I
wouldn't blame you if you'd rather not try it.  My dad and I started my 350
last year after we rebuilt it.  It was sitting on a tire in the garage.  We
just tucked in a chunk of a railroad tie under each side, hotwired it, and
squirted gas down the carb.  Cranked right up and ran as long as we fed it
gas, no problem.  Only ran it a second, just to make sure it would fire
before we put it back in the car.  Not that I'm saying this is the best idea
in the world, but it's been done with no mishap.  My dad also tested a
pontiac 455, a Ch*vy 283 and a Vega 2300 in the same manner.  All engines
lived a  long happy life.  (yes, even the vega.  And all the engines were
primed with oil just before they were started BTW.)  Firing up the Buick
while it was on the ground wouldn't have proved much but I would have felt
better knowing the engine would at least crank up.  Besides, it couldn't
have gone far, it was chained to the bulldozer blade, prolly ready to lift
it into the first truck whoose driver handed over $350.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Jim Hoekendijk <jim.hoekendijk@pi.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:22:50 -0400
Subject: 64 Vista Cruiser

Dan, Paul and others,

Thank you for the info.

I have located the Body Information Plate as you indicated. It was all
greasy so I never noticed. It reads:

             Oldsmobile div. General Motors Corp.
                  05A   Lansing, Michigan
             STYLE  64-3265          BODY LA 3372
             TRIM   398              PAINT R-R
             ACC.   G
                    This car finished with
                 Magic Mirror Acrylic Lacquer
                        Body by Fisher

The code T152360G on the protect-o-plate I have identified as the engine
code number.
At http://www.442.com/enginecodes.html I've learned the "T" stands for
64-65 330 V8, and the "G" stands for High Compression (it still has
10.25 : 1).

The code 824m232829 I have identified as the Vihicle Identification
Number.
At http://www.442.com/vin.html I've learned the "8" stands for V8, the
"2" stands for F-85 Cutlass and the "4" stands for 1964.

Who can further help me out?

Jim.


- --
Jim Hoekendijk
Badhuisweg 60
7314 EE  Apeldoorn
The Netherlands
Tel:    +31 55 522 63 59
Mobile: +31 65 460 51 77
E-mail: jim.hoekendijk@pi.net

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:43:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

It won't be factory but you can get the ducts working again by using some
heater duct hose sealed with duct tape. Or wait 'till you find a car
like yours in the boneyard. A good hardware store should have the hose,
but I'm not sure if there are a variety of diameters or just one. Also
what i'm thinking comes in white, where black would be preferable.

cf

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:49:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

> > The defrosters do not work due to the fact there
> > is no ductwork underneath the dash (I don't know why, but my guess it
> > was taken out when the motor was swapped.)
>
> I have the same problem in my 1971 Cutlass Supreme.
> If someone could tell me where I could find suitable
> replcements I would be very grateful.

The problem is the paper fiber ducts deteriorate after 25 years.  Year
One sells replacements made out of a vinyl? material, I think they want
something like $16-$20 for a 6' section (more than enough).  I also need
to replace mine but thought I could find it cheaper.  So far I haven't,
so if anyone has a reccomendation...

Kurt
71 442

------------------------------

From: Jonah Kadish <kadijon@charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 15:00:25 -0400
Subject: Olds Enthusist

I' would like the free book thanks!!!!
Jonah Kadish
3361 S. Wabash
Chi, Il
60616

On Mon, 3 Mar 1997 OldsHeidi@aol.com wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
>
> I know it has been sometime since I last posted but I am still on the
digest. >  My team of 4 downsized to a team of 2 so things here have been a
bit > overwhelming keeping up with email and digest :-)   So if any of you
have any > questions for me please post to the list and send me a copy it will
get read > quicker (I'm a little behind in my digest reading *blush, shuffle*)
 > I have registration forms for the centennial celebration along with a time >
line of events and  happenings. > For those who have recently joined the
Olds list I also still have plenty of > the Oldsmobile Enthusiast booklets
that I would be happy to send out.  This > book offers sources for hard to
find parts and restration services.  It's > free for a name and mailing
address.  When you email me please put "Olds > Enthusiast" in the subject
line. > > Well, that's it for now.  Please don't hestitate to let me know if
you have a > question or a concern and again I apologize if I have missed any
messages. > > Sincerely, > Heidi Magyar > Oldsmobile Division >
Oldsheidi@aol.com > > > You have not changed your default password.  Please
login to http://netaddress.usa.net/ to start using NetAddress >

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 15:04:57 -0400
Subject: Re: 64 Vista Cruiser

At 02:22 PM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Dan, Paul and others,
>
>Thank you for the info.
>
>I have located the Body Information Plate as you indicated. It was all
>greasy so I never noticed. It reads:
>
>             Oldsmobile div. General Motors Corp.
>                  05A   Lansing, Michigan
>             STYLE  64-3265          BODY LA 3372
>             TRIM   398              PAINT R-R
>             ACC.   G
>                    This car finished with
>                 Magic Mirror Acrylic Lacquer
>                        Body by Fisher

Paul decoded the info on your protect-o-plate in an earlier message, and I
imagine the info above will yield the same, but I'll check my references
this evening and let you know.



Dan



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 15:11:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiper adjustment

> The little post that sticks thru the cowl, and retain the wiper arms are
reeded (like the edge of a coin) and make the wipers easily adjustable. With
the wipers at rest, remove the arms, and replace them in the position desired.


> The Wiz

This would work unless you have a post with the key or "sure-pin" made
on.  Wouldn't this problem stem from a bad wiper motor that's unable to
reach the park position? (Does the motor turn backwards?)  I have the
same problem so I'd like to see us solve this one.

Shoe-Man

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 15:35:13 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 What?(meaningless midadventure) :-)

On Tue, 4 Mar 1997, Anti-HT movement wrote:
                     ^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sounds like some new yankee political party to me!  :-)


>
> Sounds like a true REDNCK!

Well now y'all, I believe that some suth'nes
gonna take some offense at that.  But, being the true
suth'n gentaman that I am, I'll jus' say:

"Go Get'm Bill"


:-)

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton (Save yer confedret money boyz the Souths gonna rise again) Pierce
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 4bbl. TH375 69k miles)
'80 Rover SD1 3500 (215 V8 EFI BW65 85k miles)
'72 Mercury Marquis Brougham (429 4bbl. C-6 110k miles; 24 or so feet
long, and brown;  BIIIIIIG Mud'n Snow truck tires all the way around
it, and a gun-rack in the back window)
No, m' neck don't feel warm, why do ya' ask?

------------------------------

From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 15:58:00 -0400
Subject: re: 66 F85

>     I seem to recall somewhere I heard of a 66 F85 with a green interior
> for sale in the midwest, but I can't remember where I saw it !!!!  Can
> anybody help ???
> THANKS !!!!!!!
>
> John Pajak     "DR. OLDS"
> Lexington Park, MD
> Pajak_John%PAX1@MR.NAWCAD.NAVY.MIL

John,

The following was posted to the list on Dec. 12, 1996.

When I inquired on this car I believe it was green/green.
Located in western Penn. I believe.

- -- for sale 1966 olds cutlass 54,000 miles asking $3900.00
- -- bcars@postoffice.ptd.net

Hope this helps.
Mike Turley         '66 442
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

From: Mark Fleck <mflk@gwl.ca>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 16:13:46 -0400
Subject: 1970 Cutlass

Does anyone know where I can get a neutral safety switch for a 1970
Cutlass which is equipted with a Hurst Dual/Gate Shifter. I have tried
many sources and haven't found any leads.

Any infomation regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank-you, Mark

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 10:28:56 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

Kurt Heinrich wrote:
>
> > > The defrosters do not work due to the fact there
> > > is no ductwork underneath the dash (I don't know why, but my guess it
> > > was taken out when the motor was swapped.)
> >
> > I have the same problem in my 1971 Cutlass Supreme.
> > If someone could tell me where I could find suitable
> > replcements I would be very grateful.
>
> The problem is the paper fiber ducts deteriorate after 25 years.  Year
> One sells replacements made out of a vinyl? material, I think they want
> something like $16-$20 for a 6' section (more than enough).  I also need
> to replace mine but thought I could find it cheaper.  So far I haven't,
> so if anyone has a reccomendation...
>
> Kurt
> 71 442

Kurt,

Check with JC Whitney.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 16:16:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Rejected and Despondent Car Owner (was: Where Olds is today)

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> When I heard the news that Ford was dropping Thunderbird a few days ago,
> that did it.  The automobile has few sacred cows except for their own
> personal selves.
<snip>

When I read the article in our local newspaper about the Thunderbird
being dropped, there was no mention of the Cougar.  I'm assuming it's
gone as well, but can anyone confirm this?

I know it's not an Olds, but we've lost yet another RWD car... Too bad.

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 16:35:56 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

Kurt Heinrich wrote:

> The problem is the paper fiber ducts deteriorate after 25 years.  Year
> One sells replacements made out of a vinyl? material, I think they want
> something like $16-$20 for a 6' section (more than enough).  I also need
> to replace mine but thought I could find it cheaper.  So far I haven't,
> so if anyone has a reccomendation...

Has anyone ever replaced these hoses?  I would like to know what I will
be getting into if I replace them myself.  Maybe I should pay someone to
do them.  Any info appreciated.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:01:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds 425

>Just for kicks, how 'bout seein' if it's got duals.  I could use the shift
>linkage if it does.  Don't make a special trip, it probably doesn't... unless
>Grandma was a motorhead.

Nope. I ~did~ check that when I was there.  I'm looking for some BB dual
exman's myself for Not Much Money.

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:01:11 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

On Tue, 4 Mar 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> > The problem is the paper fiber ducts deteriorate after 25 years.  Year
> > One sells replacements made out of a vinyl? material, I think they want
> > something like $16-$20 for a 6' section (more than enough).  I also need
> > to replace mine but thought I could find it cheaper.  So far I haven't,
> > so if anyone has a reccomendation...

> Has anyone ever replaced these hoses?  I would like to know what I will
> be getting into if I replace them myself.  Maybe I should pay someone to
> do them.  Any info appreciated.

   As long as you don't mind a few hours under the dash, it's not a bad
job.  I replaced the ones on my non-AC '71 CS in about 2 hours.   Marine
stores have duct hose small enough for this purpose - kinda like mini
dryer vent hose.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:11:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Disc brakes

Stephen,

Thanks for the info.  I've been wanting to make this conversion for a long
time now, and can't decide if I should try to find parts in a junkyard or
buy new parts from a place like that.  Are the brake pads a stock GM part,
or are they a part specific to that manufacturers hardware?  IOW, are they
proprietary?  Can I go to the auto parts store and buy replacemants, or do I
have to buy then from SSBC?


>Hey all, just wanted to let you know that I have just completed my
>front-end rebuild and after searching the endless junkyards of Dallas, I
>popped for the new disc brake conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brakes
>Corporation. I did one of these conversion on a '70 Ponti*c Lemans using
>junkyard parts and let me tell you, that car DID NOT stop like my
>Cutlass does now. The kit is $850 plus tax, a bit pricey, but worth it I
>think. The parts are all brand new and it is a 100% bolt-on, I did not
>have to get a thing, except some more brake fluid. My car always stopped
>good I thought for drum brakes, but it's nothing compared to the discs.
>If you have the money, go for it.
>Stainless Steel Brake Corporation
>1-800-448-7722
- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:32:24 -0400
Subject: Need Some Advice

Olds Techs;
        I am considering buying the following vehicle:

1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

I have listed everything I can think of about the car below.  If you
could please be so kind as to evaluate my information and then give me
an opinion of the car and also what you think should be the offering
price.  I would be greatly appreciative.

2nd and 3rd digits - Series -
                                36 = Cutlass V8 (1967-71)
                        Above Not Relevent (Originally had a 350)

4th and 5th digits - Body code -
                                87 = 2d Holiday coupe
6th dlglt - Model year -
                                9 = 1969
7th digit - Assembly plant -
                                1 = Oshawa, ON Canada

Here is the VIN specs on the body.

It has a 455 BB '72-'76 Castingª Fa

I do not know what heads are on it.  I do have the full castingª of the
engine, but not on me at the moment (I believe it started with a 3).

The trans is a TH400 3 Speed Auto

The gears are stock at probably 2.73 or 3.08.

The rims are I believe original, but if not they at least match.

The body is medium dented in the doors.  There are average dings
throughout.  The hood is in very good shape except for a serious crack
in the front about 3in. long.


The paint is Electric Blue and is in decent condition.  There is no rust
through on the entire car except a small portion on the right rear wheel
well.  There is some very minor surface rust patches in the trunk floor
and along the C posts and roof.

I went down to look at it this weekend and drove it around.  The engine
was very clean and ran smooth.  There were no strange odors or
discolored smoke from the pipes. The trans shifted very smoothly (I
could barely even feel it go into third).  I don't know the mileage on
the motor because it is not the original.  The interior seats are that
of a Camaro.  The car has been fortunate enough to be converted from a
column shifter to a floor shifter of which the brand I do not know but I
suspect a Camaro. It has the silver and black console and a wooden ball
handle on the shifter itself.  The interior is clean and has no rips.
The header panel need replaced.  Tires are in good shape.  The chrome is
in decent condition. The manual windows have
trouble going up and down but they do function.


P.S.  I realize this car has a serious identity problem.

Thank You for your time.

- --
Gerald Hughes

79 Hurst/Olds
79 Bradley GT
84 Bronco XLT

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:35:21 -0400
Subject: New Hot Rod

     Anyone check out the new Hot Rod yet?  ~Great~ shot on page 10, the
Reaction Time page.  Show a picture of an engine block on the lawn with
flowers growing out of it.  Caption reads "For 40 years, I've been looking
for a good purpose for a Ch*vy engine.  I've finally found one!"

     Somewhere in between the thousands of cam*ros in there (roughly page
98, to be exact:) there's a shot of a mid 80's Cutlass (just the driver's
1/4 panel is all shown) and there's a Buick GS in the same picture.  Turn
the page and there's an Olds underAchieva doing a wheelstand.  Ch*vy
powered, of course, otherwise it would be in a ~different~ magazine!  :(
That mid-80's Cutlass must be a 12 second ~Rocket~ powered car.  If it had a
blowtie under the hood they'd have shown the ~whole~ thing...  Oh, well...
Only 23 more issues until the subscription expires...

No new Rockit news...


      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      500 4th Ave.          | "charley@rocketship.com"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties)

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:45:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Disc brakes

Dave Paulison wrote:
>
> Stephen,
>
> Thanks for the info.  I've been wanting to make this conversion for a long
> time now, and can't decide if I should try to find parts in a junkyard or
> buy new parts from a place like that.  Are the brake pads a stock GM part,
> or are they a part specific to that manufacturers hardware?  IOW, are they
> proprietary?  Can I go to the auto parts store and buy replacemants, or do I
> have to buy then from SSBC?
>
> Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
> dpauliso@gate.net


Hey Dave, these parts are all 100% original equipment pieces. This
company is just making the parts new, now that you can no longer get
them from GM. They use the same pads and calipers as all of the GM
mid-size cars from '68-'77. Absolutely nothing is propreitary, they even
send you the correct proportioning block.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: Terrance Bradley <DocOlds@Magmacom.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:50:15 -0400
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass

Mark Fleck wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a neutral safety switch for a 1970
> Cutlass which is equipted with a Hurst Dual/Gate Shifter. I have tried
> many sources and haven't found any leads.
>
> Any infomation regarding this would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank-you, Mark


 Mark I have one and its 50.00

 Docolds
 1-613-567-9203

------------------------------

From: "Dan Miller" <Dsm137@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:49:28 -0400
Subject: RE: floor pans

- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of NRJ1960@aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 03, 1997 7:58 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: floor pans

 Looking for rear floor pans for 1972 Detlta 88 Royale Conv.
Havn't been able to locate anywhere. Any suggestions?


Neil


Neil,

  Try Year One......they seem to sell the trunks in one or three piece sets
for around 300 dollars. They seem to have a lot of floor panels front and rear
 for various models, but the price with them is never the cheaper way for
sure!!!!!

Dan.

1967 Yellow on Yellow Cutlass Convertible


------------------------------

From: chray@Logical.Net
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:59:24 -0400
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile digest

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:13:16 -0400
Subject: Re: '67 442 for sale

>OLDS--'67 442, straight orig. body, excel. interior, runs great, needs
>paint. Too many new parts to list. $3500/OBO. Call 540-972-7212
>This ad first appeared in The Washington Post February 28, 1997.


Yeah, I'm interested, but I'm lacking a few thousand dollars...  ;)

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:13:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Wagon

>but even the rolled-down window didn't break!).
>The other car was decimated, but alas, the wagon took a mighty blow.

Well, if it didn't even break the window, how bad could it be??  :)

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:13:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S 2 Door Holiday Coupe

>The problem is the paper fiber ducts deteriorate after 25 years.  Year
>One sells replacements made out of a vinyl? material, I think they want
>something like $16-$20 for a 6' section (more than enough).  I also need
>to replace mine but thought I could find it cheaper.  So far I haven't,
>so if anyone has a reccomendation...


This happened to my '69.  I found the ducting available at Pep Boys for
about $8 (better than $16-$20) for 6', and it's vinyl (I believe), instead
of paper.  The correct diameter is 2-1/2".

If you need the formed hard plastic pieces of ductwork, your best bet is the
junque yarde...

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: Jim442W30@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:12:54 -0400
Subject: Subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@gate.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:13:13 -0400
Subject: Re: 442 W-Dirty

>I have seen these fakes,  but I always look for the two raised ribs on the
>end of the head that are nearly impossible to duplicate, even with JB weld.
>Only F heads had these ribs, never E's.

Oh yeah?  What do they look like (size, shape, etc)?  Where exactly are they
located, on the front and rear of the head?

- --
Dave Paulison                  1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Melbourne, Florida             1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@gate.net

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:27:09 -0400
Subject: Rejected and Despondent Car Owner (was: Where Olds is today)

<< It's beginning to get hard to tell if
it's Olds., or GM pulling the strings.>>

It was pretty clear to me that GM is determining which markets a given
Division will  _emphasize_.  Obviously they can't make it exclusive or each
Division would be selling only one or two cars. So this leaves some leeway.
 This leeway for Olds does not seem to include anything "performance" such as
an Aurora powered affordable mid size and priced car.  That would step on the
toes of the C*amaro/F*rebird.

That said, I agree totally that the 2-door/4-door thing is a self fulfilling
prophecy.  First, if you don't make it they won't buy; second, if you assume
the imports have it right it must take 4 doors to sell. And I am sure to a
segment of the car buying population, that's true.

What I feel is missing in what I have been hearing is that, in spite of what
it says in "Setting the Pace", I don't think they realize that it was poor
quality that killed their sales.  The imports didn't sell because they had 4
doors.  They sold because they were better cars.  By focusing on marketing
studies instead maybe it allows them to ignore that fact.

The most important thing I have come away with from the reported conversation
and other sources/discussions is that Olds can't, and I am very sorry to say,
doesn't want to cater to the kind of market generally represented by the
members of this list.  If they did we would receive _something_ indicating
they are listening.  A $90,000 Aurora powered Shelby whatever isn't it.  My
friends comment that "niche cars don't make any money" sounds like brain
washing in the corporate hype.  So please explain Corvette, Z-28, Trans-Am,
GTO, 442, GS, Mustang GT and so many others.

Even of those cars don't make a bundle by themselves, the joy of owning them
generates brand loyalty. I purchased _new_ 65, 67, 77, 81 and 84 Oldsmobiles
based on my fun experiences with a 56 88 3-speed 2 door sedan. Two were
"niche cars" the others family cars.  I don't think I am alone in this buying
pattern.  Olds/GM don't seen to care.

It's kind of like any other "personal" relationship you might have.  All you
can do is tell you 'em you love 'em and hope they listen and respond.  If it
doesn't work, keep the memories and move on.  There's always the chance they
will finally wake up and realize what a loyal person/group you/we are and
make the motions to win you back.

Somehow I don't see that happening.  The auto industry has changed too much
and there is _still_ too much of
this-is-what-we-make-so-like-it-or-buy-nothing.
Guess what my response to this has been and will be?

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:27:19 -0400
Subject: Silicone Brake Fluid?

I've been using it for about 15 years.  Some of the early fluids weren't as
good as those today.  I love it.  For a car that sits more than it should
it's greatest quality is that it doesn't absorb water which leads to
corrosion.  I recently added disc brakes to my '67.  The silicone fluid had
been in there since 1984.  Was just as clear and clean as when I put the
stuff in and so was the brake system.  No leaks, no drips, no runs, no
errors.  DOT 5 fluid also has a higher boiling temperature than DOT 3 the
next most common type you will find.

The older silicone fluid was very bad about trapping bubbles.  It was hard to
bleed the brake system any way other than gravity - the best method anyway.

The newer stuff doesn't seem nearly as bad.  I watched it while filling the
new disc system.   Any bubbles rapidly rose to the top. I still used a
combination of gravity and vacuum pump bleeding.

I've heard a lot of stories too but I can't confirm a single one, except the
bleeding problem.  Otherwise silicone/DOT 5 fluid will be put in any
new/complete rebuild system on my cars.  The positives outweigh the negatives
IMO.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:27:22 -0400
Subject: T-3's

<< Trick is to remove the T-3's for everyday use (or uselessness, if you are
actually
talking about lighting the road) and replace them with some decent halogens
so you can see where you're going. Then pop the T-3's in for
showtime/cruisetime.>>

I was giving a talk on show judging to our chapter some months back and one
of our members got really upset with me.  My statement was something along
the lines of I personally thought it was pretty dumb to drive your valuable
restored show vehicle at night with old T-3's that have most of the tungsten
filamet deposited on the reflector for the 3-4 points it gets you at a show.
 Guy got really upset.

I still think it's dumb.  Hopefully the repro T-3's will shed a little more
light than the 30 year old used ones out there.  They have to.  But they
still won't match the output of halogens.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:45:47 -0400
Subject: Re:

At 01:33 PM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> I am getting 100's of email. I don't even own an olds. Some how I got on
your list by
>> enquiring about one. Please, take me off if you will. This is tying my
search practice up.
>> Please let me know you received this. Thanks so much.
>
>A good example of why we shouldn't assume ignorance and take a "Serves
>'em right if they can't unsubscribe" attitude on this list, folks...
>
>
>
>Tim (Peace on Earth, Good Oil in Olds) Churchill
>-------------
>'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
>'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
>'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
>
>
The only problem with this 'f*ck em' if they can't take a joke attitude, is
that most of the people that are on  here and wanting off, but not knowing
how; seem to have gotten themselves on by circuitous means--in other words
they didn't do it intentionaly.  I can see where as many as 200 non-descript
E-Mails a day isn't all that funny.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Ira_H_Siegelman_at_WDHMONRPost1@vnyao.dcmdw.dla.mil
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:55:11 -0400
Subject: Orig AM radio 4 sale

     Would anybody be interested in purchasing an original AM radio
     (working, with knobs) from a 72 cutlass? If so make offer. Also, I
     have 4 72 cutlass hubcaps 4 sale.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 18:59:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Turbos & Heat

At 08:57 AM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> You are correct in that pressure is indeed the mechanism
>> that drives the turbo.  However, to utilize any signifigant
>> amout of pressure from the engine you need the heat.
>> Temperature is a measure of extra enery in a given system.
>> i.e.  The more heat you have the more energy you have.
>> This extra energy(heat) causes the air to expand, therefore
>> giving the air a greater presure to drive the turbo.  Which
>
>When is exhaust gas at its highest temperature?  I'd say right about when
>it is formed, immediately following combustion of the intake charge.  From
>this point onward (excluding things like catalytic converters which
>catalyse reactions that produce heat), the exhaust gas temperature would
>appear to decrease.  The heat of combustion has already resulted in
>extremely rapid expansion of a gas within the engine; in an exhaust system,
>what are the potential energy sources that can induce post combustion
>expansion?  No one denies that heat is energy.  The question is how to
>make use of this heat.  In an Olds engine, a fraction of the heat of
>combustion is transferred to the mechanical motion of the piston,
>connecting rod and so forth.  When air is heated, it usually rises;
>witness the prevalence of late afternoon thunderstorms on hot summer
>days.  It is unlikely that convection currents would be responsible for
>driving a turbocharger.  Someone mentioned that the design within a turbo
>similar to a turbine.  There are no apparent sources of energy in the
>exhaust system that would result in an expanding gas to drive a turbine.
>Can a turbine be made to run on a contracting gas?
>
>Kevin Wong
>
Kev,

I felt like a first class doofus when I posted my first inquiry about
turbo-supercharging last week.  Several of the answers seem to have taken
the thread and run with it, and run with it quite well.

I does appear that the heat deposited into the exhaust is the primary source
of power for the turbo-charger.  I was a doubting Thomas about that for some
time during this threads primacy, but have re-read all of them, and think I
see the picture for what it actually is.

The cause for my doubt, and what I was reading into the thread at first; was
that the turbo was supposed to be some sort of pure heat engine, but that is
not was actually being said.  It is operated like the later stages in a Jet
engine.  The early stages heat up air, which significantly increases the
volume of air, that play on the turbine blades later in the engine; that
eventually exhaust the engine producing thrust = power = work.  The Jet
engine analogy works for me fairly well, the reciprocating engine acting
like the primary stages in the aforementioned turbine powerplant.

There is some volume of air passed thru a reciprocating engine, enough that
air compressor companies, use part of an engine to produce power, and the
other cylinders to pump air.  However, the vast majority of the exhaust
volume occurs because of the excess heat obtained on the fuels firing in the
cylinder.  This means that heat is ultimately the source of operation for
the turbo charger.

I believe that the turbo charger would work in either by blowing thru it
(conventional operation) or by putting a 'vacuum cleaner' on the output
side.  The vacuum cleaner analogy would work as long as it was not a closed
system, but open to the ambient.

The Wiz

P.S. Did I get it?

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 19:09:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiper adjustment

At 03:11 PM 3/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> The little post that sticks thru the cowl, and retain the wiper arms are
reeded (like the edge of a coin) and make the wipers easily adjustable. With
the wipers at rest, remove the arms, and replace them in the position desired.
 > >> The Wiz > >This would work unless you have a post with the key or
"sure-pin" made >on.  Wouldn't this problem stem from a bad wiper motor that's
unable to >reach the park position? (Does the motor turn backwards?)  I have
the >same problem so I'd like to see us solve this one. > >Shoe-Man > > When
did they start keying the wiper?

I watched an electric wiper motor work on time, and it just runs around in a
circle.  The reciprocating motion of the wiper arms was provided by cam
action; not the motor itself.

The older vacuum wiper motors do work back and forth.  And some of them
adjust by taking a small screw out of the wiper arm hub, and turning the
hub; then refastening it.

What year and model cars are having this trouble?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 10:33:53 -0400
Subject: What's an EFI intake cost

Just got back from a junque yard this afternoon.  Had a question about olds
multi-point EFI manifolds.  What is one worth.  The guy at the junk yard
wanted $50 for the manifold and the throttle body.  I thought maybe this was
kinda steep because the manifold really has no use and I doubt if he's ever
gonna sell it.  I was thinking maybe $35 and I'm wondering if maybe i'm just
cheap.  BTW does anyone know how to tell the difference between an aluminum
EFI intake and cast Iron?  Is maybe the cast Iron one painted and the
aluminum isn't?  I guess I'll have to take a magnet back to the yard.

Thanks,

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:05:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Disc brakes

I didn't know about the Thunderbird being dropped.  I'm sorry to hear that
because, like someone said, it's one of the last RWD cars we have.  It's
not an Olds but the T-bird's are great cars.  I drove an early '90's
5-speed SuperCoupe a couple o' years back and it was a wonderful car.  In
fact, I was actually hoping to buy one before I found my Quad4 Calais.
Anyway, I sympathize with y'all who are lamenting the disapperance of the
Great American Muscle Car.
Wish GM/Ford/Mopar would wake up. (Well, at least the Mopar Guys seem to
be sorta awake.)

I remember last year Car Craft ran a story on a RWD prototype Monte Carlo
with a small-block 400 that Chevy was playing with.  Car Craft was putting
together a petition to send to Chevy to encourage them to put the car into
production.  Anyone know about that or about how Chevy responded? (Or IF
Chevy responded.)  If something like that happens over at Chevy, it might
spread to the other carmakers.

Anyway, just trying to build a little optimism.  :)


          Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:24:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Free Cars....

In a message dated 97-03-03 21:34:57 EST, you write:

> March issue (1997), page ª21, 2nd from the bottom right was a FREE 1964
>  Starfire hardtop with 75,000 miles. The price is right, I says!
>
>  Anybody on the list get these cars? Tell us more!

Hey, I missed that one!  Jenkintown isn't all that far away, I'll have to
call him and go check it out, but it's probably already gone.  "Good
restoration base", wonder how much rust that means?

I tried to give a Toronado away free in JWO a few years ago.  I got one phone
call.  And he wanted 100% perfect bumpers and stuff.  I couldn't give it
away!  Had to have it hauled to the boneyard so it could donate vital organs
to keep others of its kind amongst the living.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 23:31:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 7.5" rear end build up

Andy Geeting wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
>
>  This summer I plan on building up the rear end in my '87 Cutlass Supreme.
> Can anyone give me some information on this rear end? I want to put in a
> good limited slip unit? Any suggestions on what kind? Also plan on changing
> to 3.73:1 rear gears. Will these be fairly good on gas mileage with the
> overdrive tranny? What is the ratio I have now?
>  Sorry if I sound dumb about this subject but I'm not really educated on
> rear ends, but I want to be! Thanks in advance!
>
> Andy Geeting
>
> '87 Cutlass Supreme
> '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
> '74 Delta 88 convertible
> '78 Caprice wagon
> '36 Plymouth wagon

Andy, it seems that I read somewhere (probably from here) that the 7.5"
rear ends only allow for as big as a 2.73 or a 3.23 ring gear.  Don't
know about the mileage, tho.  I know that my 2.29's don't do too bad!

- --

+-----------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8

 adcockjk@erols.com
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

+-----------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:45:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid?

Jeff,
      I have a 73 442 that I restified 4 years ago and I used silicone brake
with no adverse effects. I race the car occationally and have no trouble
stopping the car after going through the traps at 110 mph. I am cuurently
doing a frame off on a 70 442 that
I will also use silicone brake fluid. I don't remember what brand I used but
I believe it was DOT 5 rating.
                                Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham


------------------------------

From: "Craig J. Smith" <craigs@dancris.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:49:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiper adjustment

> >
> >> The Wiz
> >
> >This would work unless you have a post with the key or "sure-pin" made
> >on.  Wouldn't this problem stem from a bad wiper motor that's unable to
> >reach the park position? (Does the motor turn backwards?)  I have the
> >same problem so I'd like to see us solve this one.
> >
> >Shoe-Man
> >
> >
> When did they start keying the wiper?
>
> I watched an electric wiper motor work on time, and it just runs around in a
> circle.  The reciprocating motion of the wiper arms was provided by cam
> action; not the motor itself.
>
> The older vacuum wiper motors do work back and forth.  And some of them
> adjust by taking a small screw out of the wiper arm hub, and turning the
> hub; then refastening it.
>
> What year and model cars are having this trouble?
>
> The Wiz

I'm working on a 68 442 convertible.

Craig Smith

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª548
********************************
