To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #555


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 10 March 1997       Volume 01 : Number 555

'77 Olds 442
For Big Car Folks Only
70 W-30 find
Re: W31 455 motor for sale
Gregg Ludlam's Cutlass
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Re: HEI swap
75 Olds Delta 88 Royale Moldings
Re: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications
Re: Shift Plate Indicator
Parts Swapability
Re: HEI swap
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Royale Moldings
Re: For Big Car Folks Only
Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions
Re: CERAMIC COATED RUST
Re: Iola Wisconsin Car Show
Re: HEI swap
Re: Parts Swapability
Re: Parts Swapability
Re:Axle shaft and oil seal
68 Toro, other pcs cars
Chicago Area Differential Mechanic
RE: Parts Swapability
Re: 68 Toro, other pcs cars (and 307 durability tests...)
Dash removal-reinstall
Re:Axle shaft and oil seal
Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions
Re: Chicago Area Differential Mechanic
RE: Parts Swapability
Re: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications
Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions
Misaligned center console
Re: Misaligned center console
newbie Cutlass Ciera question
Eileen Hull-'66 Starfire
Re: Seat cover mfrers.
What BHap was REALLY trying to say
Re[2]: Where in the world is Joe Padavano?
Re: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications
Re: "56 Olds
Re: HEI swap
RE: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications
Re: Parts Swapability
Extra Capacity Oil Pans
paint/body work in DFW area ??
67 parking lights
Re: 67 Olds Parking lights
Re: Fuel Pump
Re: Subject: Re: T-3 Inquiry
Gregg Ludlam's Cutlass -Reply
Light Bulbs
Re: Extra Capacity Oil Pans
Re: HEI swap
Timing Q's
Re: Extra Capacity Oil Pans
3/10 1957 Chassis Parts Book For Sale
Re: seat cover mfrers?
Re: Timing Q's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 19:00:57 -0400
Subject: '77 Olds 442

Does anyone else own a 1977 442 or a similar year like a '76?
If so write back.

Chris Kugler

talcarol@erie.net

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 17:57:58 -0400
Subject: For Big Car Folks Only

Hey, all,

Need your opinions on the following:

I came across a '72 Ninety Eight Regency Hardtop Sedan today.  Saw it in the
Sunday paper.  It's a trade-in over at our Oldsmobile store.  Went to look at
it, and it was locked behind the service department security fence :(

The paper said it was "fawn green", but it is definately Anniversary Gold and
has the Regency emblem on the rear roof panel.  The paint is OK for 25 year
old original gold paint.  There doesn't look to be any major body damage.
 It's gonna need a rear bumper.  Front bumper is good.  There's some rust
coming thru on the trunk lid and on the passenger side skirt.  Have no idea
what the interior looks like.  It's black.  Doesn't look like the dash is
cracked, but it's kinda hard to tell.  It's basically an original, unrestored
car.  Looks like it burped a little antifreeze where it's sitting, which may
be the reason it was a trade.

My question is, is there any interest in these Regency models?  These were
the special edition 75th anniversary models that Olds had in '72.  I cannot
find any production figures other than "a few thousand".  The '72 SPECS book
lists it as an option package that includes: Regency emblems on dash and sail
panels, Tiffany & Co. clock, 60/40 loose pillow look interior with rear
center armrest, special ignition key with sterling silver key ring, special
paint.  It was a $360 option.  They were introduced in the Spring for the
upcoming anniversary and the interiors could be ordered in black or gold.
 Does anyone consider these to be a "special" model over the regular Ninety
Eight models?  I always thought it would be neat to have one these, and now
that I've seen it, it's just another Ninety Eight.  I am considering
purchasing it if the interior is nice, but don't really have the room for
another car.  I don't really want to sink any money into it either if there's
no collector value there.

What'cha think?

Paul

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 18:52:31 -0400
Subject: 70 W-30 find

In the local Auto Mart magazine there has been a 70 W-30 for about 3 weeks
now. From the picture it looks like a nice car, but it has SSIII
wheels...wonder if those are correct? Anyways the ad reads :N. Carolina car,
rebuilt 455, bench seat, 4spd, W27, 3.91 12 bolt rear, white with dark green
interior. They want $6500. The car is by me in North Canton, Ohio. The ad is
on the net at http://www.traderonline.com.  Just thought I would pass this
info on as from the looks of the car it seems like a good deal.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..soon to be a born again junkyard car.

------------------------------

From: OldsDr@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 19:06:26 -0400
Subject: Re: W31 455 motor for sale

A 455 with G heads is a 1971 engine.   W-31's were built from 68-70 with
350's.

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:43:28 -0400
Subject: Gregg Ludlam's Cutlass

Gang,

I just temporarily added a picture of Gregg Ludlam's Cutlass to my index. A
REALLY nice looking ride. I did not stick it on the Toro FAQ site, so you
will have to click on the URL or type it in depending on your browser.

http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/ludcut.htm

Cool looking Cutlass Gregg! I like that color!!! Duh, I just remembered I
forgot add the year.....what year is that anyway.....about a 70 or so?

Sparky
- --
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 20:02:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

Jim,
I'll buy numerous indicators providing you make them look exactly like the
originals. I hate bad reproductions, and have never understood why someone
would go to all the trouble to make junk. You make them right, and you won't
have any trouble with sales.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 14:25:43 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI swap

Can anyone tell me what year and engine  HEI distributor will fit in a
'63 394 olds?

------------------------------

From: Kath911@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:41:51 -0400
Subject: 75 Olds Delta 88 Royale Moldings

I need new or NOS body side moldings for a 75 Olds Delta 88 Royale - they are
1 1/6" wide, white, with chrome borders and a chrome strip down the center.
 Called "Original Astra 1 1/6".  If you can help find a source, I would
appreciate it.

kath911@aol.com or call (714) 953-8550
Kathleen and Terry

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 22:04:56 -0400
Subject: Re: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications

Greg Yonge wrote:
>
> Anyone know of any performance modifications that can be made to a '92
Achieva with the H.O. engine?

Call Mantapart, they sell Quad 4 parts and built racing engines.

Mantapart Performance products
330 549-3188

Jeff. 91 Quad 442 W-41

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:32:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Shift Plate Indicator

At 08:02 PM 3/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim,
>I'll buy numerous indicators providing you make them look exactly like the
>originals. I hate bad reproductions, and have never understood why someone
would
>go to all the trouble to make junk. You make them right, and you won't have
any
>trouble with sales.
>
>Art Fuller
>mefco@sprynet.com


Art

        Sounds good. Looks like we'll go ahead and do them.
Thanks,

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: ngomez@airmail.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:48:15 -0400
Subject: Parts Swapability

Hey everybody, I've pretty much been lurking lately. Just a quick question:
I am searching for a set of rear brake shoes for my 1965 Olds 98, but no
store in Dallas has them, nor does JC Whitney. I was thinking about
contacting Kanter, and maybe Fusicks if necessary. Does anyone know of a
set of rear shoes from another car that could be used? I would like any
help, thanks!
Dominic

     One rude boy can only take so much.
     He's had enough and he's ready to ruck.
     He's an angry young man but he's only a boy.
     He's running down the street shouting "Oi! Oi! Oi!"
                       -The Grown-Ups, 'Rampage'

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:37:17 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI swap

At 02:25 PM 3/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me what year and engine  HEI distributor will fit in a
>'63 394 olds?


As far as I know this may not be a possible swap. What I would find is a HEI
out of an Olds and pull the 394's distributor and compare the two foe number
of teeth on the gear, size of the gear and the length measurement from the
collar to the end of the gear allowing you to physically see if there are
any differences.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:46:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Royale Moldings

At 09:41 PM 3/9/97 -0400, you wrote:

>I need new or NOS body side moldings for a 75 Olds Delta 88 Royale - they are
>1 1/6" wide, white, with chrome borders and a chrome strip down the center.
> Called "Original Astra 1 1/6".  If you can help find a source, I would
>appreciate it.
>
>kath911@aol.com or call (714) 953-8550
>Kathleen and Terry

Kathleen,

I believe you asked me this question directly a week or two ago.  I
responded, but I never heard from you again. Perhaps you didn't get my
response.  (Or perhaps you didn't like my response!  <g>)

In any event, I needed those white moldings for my car as well.  I checked
around, including a several local auto parts stores, who certainly could
special order such moldings, but I couldn't find a close enough match to
what I wanted.  Most of the stuff available was too thin (1/2" or so) or
too thick (2" or more).  For the hell of it I also tried the local Olds
dealer.  Long discontinued, not surprisingly.

I finally found a pretty good approximation from, of all places, the
much-maligned J.C. Whitney Co.  They sell it in 3/4" or 7/8" widths (I
don't offhand remember which), which, while not quite wide enough, still
look pretty good, in my opinion.  If you visit my web page (address below),
you can see them on the car.  The quality is pretty good, in my opinion,
and the moldings featured 3M adhesive, which is excellent.  You just peel
off the backing and stick it on.  No glues or drilling holes.  Just make
sure you get it straight the first time, because once on, there's no
pulling it off!


Dan


************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:46:49 -0400
Subject: Re: For Big Car Folks Only

At 05:57 PM 3/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I am considering
>purchasing it if the interior is nice, but don't really have the room for
>another car.  I don't really want to sink any money into it either if there's
>no collector value there.
>
>What'cha think?

Paul,

I've never heard of any collector value to these.  The Old Cars Price Guide
doesn't call them out special (you know, "add $100 if 75th Anniversary
special" or something like that).  I'd say don't buy it unless you want the
car to enjoy.  Don't expect it to appreciate in value any more rapidly than
any other '72 98.


Dan


************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:59:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions

I found the 442 at wal-mart last week.  Strangely, the were priced at
4.95 or 5.95, but they all rang up as 3.00.  There could be a reason
that they are 3.00, there is something wrong with them.  I haven't
really looked at them that carefully, but the dimensions of the car are
wrong.  It looks as if the roofline is too high, and the car sits to
low.  It is hard to describe, but it is noticable.  I showed the car to
my wife and she instantly said that "It looked funny."

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:54:49 -0400
Subject: Re: CERAMIC COATED RUST

At 11:03 3/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>On Mon, 4 Nov 1996 22:26:06 -0400 CHRIS MATTHES <CDOGG73@ELKNET.NET>
>writes:
>>does anyone know why my new, never driven, only bolted on to the car,
>>and
>>then sat all winter, $300 ceramic coated hedders are rusting???
>>
>>i'd like to know.
>>
>I have an idea, but am not sure. Were these ceramic coated headers coated
>on the inside as well? Are there any chips in the ceramic coating?? These
>two factors would contribute to them rusting. I would consider contacting
>the supplier you purchased them from and check on a repair or
>replacement. Good luck.
>

 I'm curious to know about this, but is it possible that the coating needs
to be brought up to a sustained temperature for a proper cure.  I would
check with the people that sell it to find out if this is the case.  Please
let us know what the product is and if there is a process needed to fix the
coating.  Eastwood has an excellant coating for exhaust manifolds but after
application heat is needed either by oven baking or by running the motor for
a period of time at operating temperature to cure it.

Glenn
'69 442

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 23:05:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Iola Wisconsin Car Show

I'd like to go, but it sounds like I won't be able to find a place to
stay.  Does anybody have any ideas on where to stay outside of town?

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 23:08:01 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI swap

At 01:25 PM 3/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me what year and engine  HEI distributor will fit in a
>'63 394 olds?

Unless the first-generation of modern Olds V-8's used the same distributor
as the last pushrod V-8's (and I don't believe that they did), then NO
factory HEI distributor will be a direct bolt-on. You could always have an
HEI top custom-welded to a points-type lower housing for your car, and
create a custom distributor driveshaft, but that would be $$$$$$$$$$$.

If you are looking for an electronic ignition, however, there are kits
(Pertronix, Mallory) that convert a standard points-type distributor over to
electronic, and they look completely stock. That would be the best solution
for you, I would imagine.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 23:21:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Swapability

Dominic,
I have a friend over in Dallas that was telling me a story similiar to yours.
He has a 65 Cutlass. I believe he said he was having trouble finding drums,
and an old fella, like me, told him he needed GTO drums. So, if that is the
case, maybe you need GTO shoes. Then again, I might just be imagining all of
this. Try it and see if it works.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com
(Kennedale)

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 00:00:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Swapability

At 08:48 PM 3/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am searching for a set of rear brake shoes for my 1965 Olds 98, but no
>store in Dallas has them, nor does JC Whitney. I was thinking about
>contacting Kanter, and maybe Fusicks if necessary. Does anyone know of a
>set of rear shoes from another car that could be used? I would like any

Hmmm, the problem with asking for the parts for another car is that the part
ª's are most likely cross-listed, so if they did indeed have shoes for a '65
Buick or Cadillac (the other C-bodies), they'd list them for the Olds as well.

I've gotten two brake kits from Kanter's, and even when I *could* get parts
through the local stores I found that Kanter had better prices for the whole
kit. The only thing to beware of is backorders from them.

Also, look into their complete brake kits, if you haven't already replaced
the rear (and front) wheel cylinders; their prices are more than
competetive, and I've never had a complaint about their quality.

Also look into what Oldsmobile USA wants for a set; they should carry them.

One last thing; NAPA stores seem to have their own chain of warehouses, so
if none of the local parts places seem to be able to find something (which
happens often, as they usually all use the same wholesalers/warehouses), see
if NAPA carries it. If they have stores in your area, of course...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 00:07:02 -0400
Subject: Re:Axle shaft and oil seal

At 01:44 PM 3/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>So anyway, I had the oil seal, but I didn't know what I was doing (Chassis
>Manual should arrive this week-yay!). I actually managed to pull the axle
>shaft without much puzzling or fuss (I was so proud of myself). That was when
>I had to stop.
>
>The oil seal, logically, belongs somewhere between the wheel bearing and the
>retaining plate. The wheel bearing is physically bigger than the oil seal,
>and so is the buisiness end of the axle shaft. Thus it is impossible to
>install the oil seal without doing something else first, as it cannot pass
>the larger features of the shaft. Do I have to 'sweat' the wheel bearing and
>inner "collar" (for want of the proper name) off of the axle shaft (~3ft!)?
>Tell me that there is a tool for this!

Take it to a local machine shop who has a press that removes (and
reinstalls) the bearing the proper way; without it, you'd only ruin the
bearing and be unable to get it off anyway! This is the way to do it.

>Mr. Paulison was kind enough to give the short course on changing rear diff
>fluid. I believe I've located the drain plug, but couldn't budge it. It is a
>plug with a recess for a square 3/8" key, right? Just like the 3/8" drive on
>a socket wrench. Again, is there a tol for this, Craftsman didn't have -any-
>kind of square keys, or square key bits, or square key sockets. I can guess
>that a lot of you out there probably just use the drive key of a 3/8" socket
>wrenches, but I would prefer to find the proper tool (the drive keys tend to
>have edges that are subtly rounded, and I would rather not have the wrench
>slip out of the plug when I have 1 ton of car suspended above me!)

The 3/8" drive *is* the proper tool. The trick is to use a 1/2"->3/8"
adapter on a *long* 1/2" drive socket wrench/breaker-bar; a standard-length
3/8" drive ratchet won't do the job at all (that sucker is on there *good*
by now, I'd imagine). Of course, you should soak it with a treatment of
penetrating oil each day for a couple days to help out on this.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 00:39:33 -0400
Subject: 68 Toro, other pcs cars

The Toro numbers, so far as I know them:

'68 455 ª38M625390, with big valve C heads, K intake, no carb, cast crank.
=D478 403 & Toro transaxle & half-shafts

1968 Toronado VIN 394878M625390
Body tag:
    06B
    68-39487  EUC  036056
    TR  082  G6    PNT

7043240 carb [1973 Buick], O-407536 water pump.

Bult second week of June: late production. Original motor! Blue, too.

Just thought I'd mention that I had the great fortune of picking up a cou=
ple
nice parts cars lately:
1- blue 76 Delta Holiday Sedan. 350/350 with 216,000 miles, starts & runs=
 just
like new. No rear brakes. Trunk holes big enough to "throw a car thru". N=
EW
windshield, radiator, hoses, WWasher pump, brake rotors. OOO-Gah horn :-)
Destiny: FIELD BOMBER! Retire the '65 Delta's 425 as too valuable to thra=
sh?

2- Brown? 83 Cutlass Calais. No, not one of them stinkin' FWD Calaises [?=
]. The
REAL kind, REAR wheel drive, sport suspension, buckets, console, T-tops, =
gages
[gauges? guages? Whatever...] Door skins a-flappin' in the breeze. Power
windows. 307 with a hell of a knock in it. Tried to blow it up but severa=
l
minutes at 5-6000 rpm didn't seem to affect it. New alternator, good tire=
s.
Destiny: parts or stick the above 350 in it, get solider doors, sell off.


- --
Chris  B. Witt
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 22:50:21 -0400
Subject: Chicago Area Differential Mechanic

This may not be an appropriate subject for the list, but I
am in need of a mechanic to swap some differential gears for me.  I
understand that this is not a trivial event, and I don't want somebody
who doesn't really know what he is doing attempt the work.  Any
suggestions on a Chicago area shop that could do this that is a known
quantity?  Please email me directly to avoid list bandwidth.
- --
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL
mailto:brett@mcs.com

72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)
96 Impala SS (black)

------------------------------

From: "Dan Miller" <Dsm137@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 00:58:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Parts Swapability

Hey Dominic,
As I look through the Year One catalog, I see that they offer new GM brake
shoes for $32 a set.  Call 1-800-950-9503.   Good luck!
Dan.
1967 Cutlass Convertible
       Ready to Roll

- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of Nick Gomez
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 1997 8:48 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Parts Swapability

Hey everybody, I've pretty much been lurking lately. Just a quick question:
I am searching for a set of rear brake shoes for my 1965 Olds 98, but no
store in Dallas has them, nor does JC Whitney. I was thinking about
contacting Kanter, and maybe Fusicks if necessary. Does anyone know of a
set of rear shoes from another car that could be used? I would like any
help, thanks!
Dominic

     One rude boy can only take so much.
     He's had enough and he's ready to ruck.
     He's an angry young man but he's only a boy.
     He's running down the street shouting "Oi! Oi! Oi!"
                       -The Grown-Ups, 'Rampage'

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 01:00:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Toro, other pcs cars (and 307 durability tests...)

At 11:39 PM 3/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>The Toro numbers, so far as I know them:
[snip of ª's from Chris' future daily driver... ;) ]
>Just thought I'd mention that I had the great fortune of picking up a couple
>nice parts cars lately:
snip
>2- Brown? 83 Cutlass Calais. No, not one of them stinkin' FWD Calaises [?].
The >REAL kind, REAR wheel drive, sport suspension, buckets, console, T-tops,
gages >[gauges? guages? Whatever...] Door skins a-flappin' in the breeze.
Power >windows. 307 with a hell of a knock in it. Tried to blow it up but
several >minutes at 5-6000 rpm didn't seem to affect it. New alternator, good
tires. >Destiny: parts or stick the above 350 in it, get solider doors, sell
off.

Well, I guess that settles the debates about the durability of the windowed
main webs on those 307's; good for a few minutes at 6000rpm, at the very
least (do you suppose you *need* the rod-knock to help the engine survive at
those revs? ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <dbennett@asu.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 01:20:16 -0400
Subject: Dash removal-reinstall

I have to take apart the dash of my '72 cutlass to insert a new dash
part that holds in the radio (the old one was cut away).  I dont have a
body or chassis manual for my car and I am wondering if anyone has some
advice.  Its looks pretty complicated and I'm not sure where to start in
order to take it apart correctly and do no further damage.  Incidently,
I do have a "Chassis service manual" for all '73 models.  This is an
original, not a re-print, and in exellent condition.  It sheds some
light on the mechanics of my '72, but does not help at all for any body
problems or questions.  I will gladly trade with anyone intrested for a
'72 cutlass manual.  Any takers????    Thanks....
Dan Bennett
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 02:05:41 -0400
Subject: Re:Axle shaft and oil seal

Snips
>
>Mr. Paulison was kind enough to give the short course on changing rear diff
>fluid. I believe I've located the drain plug, but couldn't budge it. It is a
>plug with a recess for a square 3/8" key, right? Just like the 3/8" drive on
>a socket wrench. Again, is there a tol for this, Craftsman didn't have -any-
>kind of square keys, or square key bits, or square key sockets. I can guess
>that a lot of you out there probably just use the drive key of a 3/8" socket
>wrenches, but I would prefer to find the proper tool (the drive keys tend to
>have edges that are subtly rounded, and I would rather not have the wrench
>slip out of the plug when I have 1 ton of car suspended above me!)
>
>Incidentally, thanks to someone for suggesting swapping the
>washer-pump-to-window-jets hoses, now I know I just have a clogged window
>jet. Gee, just when I am about to solve the washer pump problem....
>
>Thanks all
>
>Karl Aune
>Chicago, IL
>1965 Dynamic 88
>
>Speak softly and carry a big roll of duct tape.
>
I think those pipe plugs with the square holes can be removed with the
square of the proper size from a socket wrench tool, braker-bar for tough
ones, and the rachet for the less troublesome.  They are simple square holes
usually in inch sizes if the plug is an inch size.  I wouldn't got to any
extra trouble to find a special tool for this one.

I hope your rear axle seal job goes ok.  They are not to difficult the
second time.

I liked the logic of switching the hoses around too.  Sometimes the simple
is the best.

The Wiz

P.S. I've got some duct tape for sale.  Not that sliver grey kind, but some
in camoflage green, just in case you need to fix something and you don't
want anyone to see it.

------------------------------

From: Sean Ray <SCR@trex2.oscs.montana.edu>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 19:11:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions

I THINK YOU LOOOK FUNNY.  ESPECIALLY WITH THAT BIG CHUNK OF FORESKIN ON
THE TIP OF YOUR WANKER

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 02:18:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Chicago Area Differential Mechanic

At 10:50 PM 3/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>This may not be an appropriate subject for the list, but I
>am in need of a mechanic to swap some differential gears for me.  I
>understand that this is not a trivial event, and I don't want somebody
>who doesn't really know what he is doing attempt the work.  Any
>suggestions on a Chicago area shop that could do this that is a known
>quantity?  Please email me directly to avoid list bandwidth.
>--
>Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL
>mailto:brett@mcs.com
>
>72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)
>96 Impala SS (black)
>
>
Thats not as hard as you're trying to make it out to be.  I'd buy a factory
shop manual, and try it.

I had great trepadations the first time too.  I did get a good gear man to
check out the settings, after I had it back together; and he gave it a clean
bill of health, 100,000 miles ago.

If you have troubles mid-way then holler for help, and in a town the size of
Chicago, you should be able to find two or even three people that can do a
first rate job on it.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 02:20:55 -0400
Subject: RE: Parts Swapability

At 12:58 AM 3/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Dominic,
>As I look through the Year One catalog, I see that they offer new GM brake
>shoes for $32 a set.  Call 1-800-950-9503.   Good luck!
>Dan.
>1967 Cutlass Convertible
>       Ready to Roll
>
>----------
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of Nick Gomez
>Sent: Sunday, March 09, 1997 8:48 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Parts Swapability
>
>Hey everybody, I've pretty much been lurking lately. Just a quick question:
>I am searching for a set of rear brake shoes for my 1965 Olds 98, but no
>store in Dallas has them, nor does JC Whitney. I was thinking about
>contacting Kanter, and maybe Fusicks if necessary. Does anyone know of a
>set of rear shoes from another car that could be used? I would like any
>help, thanks!
>Dominic
>
>     One rude boy can only take so much.
>     He's had enough and he's ready to ruck.
>     He's an angry young man but he's only a boy.
>     He's running down the street shouting "Oi! Oi! Oi!"
>                       -The Grown-Ups, 'Rampage'
>
>
>
If you the shoes are still good, ie, not been in direct contact with the
drum it is likely that you can have them relined too.  Maybe a worst case,
but definitly do-able.  And actually not too expensive.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 03:22:52 -0400
Subject: Re: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications

Greg,

I've asked similar questions about my '90 Calais with the HO motor.  I
don't know much about what can be done but I do know that you could
install a different computer chip, better intake/exhaust.
I called Summit about these parts and they have Flowmaster mufflers, K&N
Filtercharger kits, and computer chips (Hypertech, I think).  The guy said
the muffler and chip swap should be good for about 25-35 hp gain.  Don't
know about the Filtercharger.
Also, the GM Performance Parts catalogue has a section just for the Quad4.
They have such parts as heavy-duty axles, limited-slip differentials,
brakes, blocks, cranks, etc.  These are mostly for road racing programs
but I'd think they would work great on a street car.  Of course these
parts are factory, so they will cost you an arm and a leg but they are
Olds parts.

Anyway, that's what I know.  Haven't done any of these modifications
(yet!), but I hope to sometime in the near future.
Let me know how any mods turnout!

                 Jim Townsend

On Sun, 9 Mar 1997, Greg Yonge wrote:

> Anyone know of any performance modifications that can be made to a '92
Achieva with the H.O. engine? > > >

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:32:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds in Miniature - Racing Champions

Folks,

Don't bother to respond to the list about the person who posted the flame
bait to the list under this subject... I've removed him and he's gone.
His postmaster also has been made aware of this behavior.


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:42:12 -0400
Subject: Misaligned center console

      Ok here's what happened: My wife was using my car one day. It seems
that she could not get the shifter on the center console out of "park"
(probaly did not use t-handle to release it) anyway her along with two of
her friends all pulled and forced the shift handle out of park. The result
is that Reverse is indicated by the letter "N", neutral is now the "D",
drive is now "L" and so on down the line. What do I do to fix this. Car is
safe to drive but problem is annoying.

Aaron D Eoff
77 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Robert F Turner)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 08:03:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Misaligned center console

On Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:42:12 -0400 Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
writes:
>      Ok here's what happened: My wife was using my car one day. It
>seems
>that she could not get the shifter on the center console out of "park"
>(probaly did not use t-handle to release it) anyway her along with two
>of
>her friends all pulled and forced the shift handle out of park. The
>result
>is that Reverse is indicated by the letter "N", neutral is now the
>"D",
>drive is now "L" and so on down the line. What do I do to fix this.
>Car is
>safe to drive but problem is annoying.
>
>Aaron D Eoff
>77 Olds Cutlass
 Is your indicator  up behind the steering wheel?? If so, you can
re-adjust the indicator by crawling up under the dash and moving the
indicator to the proper position. Also, check to see if your car has a
connecting rod from the floor shifter to the column. This could be a
problem, too. If so, loosen the bolt  and re- align everything. That's
all I have

Rob Turner
Katana72@juno.com       It's NOT your Daddy's Oldsmobile !!!!
Hastings, MN

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 08:59:00 -0400
Subject: newbie Cutlass Ciera question

Please excuse this newbie question if it has been answered before.
I am about to purchase an Olds tomarrow and I think its uncommon if not a
bit rare. Its a 90 Olds Cutlass Ciera XC special edition. It is the only one
I have ever saw. White w/ red bucket seat interior. Gauge/tach package,
windows/locks, cassette, console, ac, tilt leather wheel. Original right
down to its white hub caps. It is a 60k mile well taken care of car. It is
3.3 *non* od automatic powered.
* is it uncommon(rare?)
* what is included in the XC package?
* is the 3 speed automatic common in these?
* any production figures available?
* Whats the difference between the 3.3 and the 3.8?
BTW- it also has the FE3 suspension.

Thanks, FRank

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:25:14 -0400
Subject: Eileen Hull-'66 Starfire

OLDS PEOPLE -

I need HELP contacting Eileen Hull from Ohio. If ANYONE
knows her or if she is on this list PLEASE contact me at: (313) 274-1770  or
E-Mail me at the below address. Thanks

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:32:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat cover mfrers.

I have a set of IPC covers on my 70.  The only thing I do not like about
them is the use of monofilament thread (fishing line).  I have installed
some G.T.O. covers that were made by PUI and they used real thread.  The
monfilament has a tendancy to come un-sewn since it doesn't grip as well
as regular thread.  So far I have not had anything come un-sewn.  The
use of monofilament is a way for the manufacturer to save some pennies.
They don't have to buy different colors of thread because the
monofilament is transparent and lets the color of the material show
through.  It sounds good in theory, but in reality it leaves a lot to be
desired.  At the time IPC was the only game in town when it came to the
pig skin vinyl for my 70.  I would not purchase from them again.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:07:48 -0400
Subject: What BHap was REALLY trying to say

A very discerned list member wrote the following.  I would like to
translate  because some people may not be able to decipher the
subliminal message.

>From: BHap@aol.com
>To all Oldsmobile list Members:
>Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 12:41:39 -0400
>Subject: Re: Well wishes
>
>
>welcome to the losers club

Didn't you mean:

Welcome to the "Exclusive, Can't Get It Anywhere Else On the Net,
Oldsmobile List of the Most Die-Hard Oldsmobilers Across the Entire
Nation.  Where Among the Many Technical Help Goodies You Can Also Find
Good Decent People to Talk With And To Share Among The Many Trials And
Tribulations In Your Life As An Oldsmobile Junkie."

BHap,  Am I anywhere close on this?  Help me out here, I'm not a mind
reader!


>.......i joined hoping to get access to olds info
>and help in technical areas

I saw this really way cool Oldsmobile list and I thought I would check
it out because I want to fit in, and anyone with an Olds is definately A
rated in my book!  And I wanted to get some information from all of you
Oldsmobile Fans.  Whoa!  Information I got!  I got information on
Turbo's, 442's, J2's, TPS's, Bottom End Stress, Head and Block Casting
numbers, Idling Answers, Wiper Adjustments, EFI, HEI, Defroster
Solutions, Disc Brakes, Rears and how to build them, Crank Swaps,
HP/Torque Comparisons, leads on parts for sale and who carries what,
Oldsmobile Today And Beyond, I even Found out about how people try to
pass off everyday olds for High-End Models like the 442 and Hurst/Olds
and if I wasn't on the list I may have ended up like one of those
suckers who can't tell the difference.  All this and more FOR FREE!!!

> - which I have gotten from a few knowledgable
>members on this list.

Wow you guys sure are full of knowledge about Oldsmobiles, would it be
a bad social move to ask a technical question about my Lowered Pink and
Green 1990 Honda Civic with a 3' wing and running boards?  Ok, Here
goes...What should I do to my Honda next, should I install the Chrome
wheelwell fender guards above each wheelwell, or should I lengthen the
axles about 6' so my tires stick out and extra fifteen feet.  If I do
both, are the wheels going to create a problem in terms of hitting the
Chrome Wheelwell Guards?  What if I put Curby Feelers on BOTH sides of
the car, would that fix the problem?



>Instead I have been bombarded with stupid comments,
>melodramatic stories and generally have wasted a good deal of time. sorting
>through the glut of junk-e-mail to find the few pieces that actually say
>something useful.

Unfortunately, I have not had as swift or as comprehensive a reply as I
had hoped.  But then again this is the Olds List.  Oops, Sorry guys, I
forgot.  I'll go and see if I can find an    "O G Low Production List of
Hoopdie Tech Questions and Answers."

>Well it was worth the effort - but in the future - I'll go
>to real sources of information

Hey guys, thanks for the info and I tell ya,  If things keep going the
way they are I can't wait to come back with some more questions for you
guys.  You really hit the nail on the head Especially when I asked about
that brand new 1997 Olds Acheiva.  Man, I bet all you guys are as
fanatic about that car as I am!  Whoo.  What a Classic Olds!


>and not a bunch of losers and wannabe's

You guys are the best!  To actually think that everyone one this list
owns an Oldmobile from the Classic Era of the Muscle Cars From Olds or
something therein is amazing to me.  Are you guys in a certain religion
too?  Can I join?  I just hope that winners like you will show up all
the way out in Lansing, MI for the 100th Oldsmobile Anniversary
Homecoming, cause I shure would like to meet all you guys, and check out
all your Classic Olds.


>BHap

BHappy that you're not me. I'm mad at the world because I missed out on
snagging a car from the oldest car company's Muscle Car Era, and the
only thing I can do is write messages to you guys about my Classic
Custom Limited Honda of which only a select number of 500,000 were made
last year.  I tell ya, I better hold on to this baby 'cause oneday
she'll be a classic.


I feel that this is really what BHap was trying to express to us.

I think that everyone makes mistakes in this world,  but if you buy an
Oldsmobile, you're one step closer to Utopia.


- --
Gerald Hughes

79 Hurst/Olds
79 Bradley GT
84 Bronco XLT

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:20:02 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Where in the world is Joe Padavano?

Hi all,

I was just wondering why we haven't heard much from Joe Padavano.
Joe are you still out there? :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

          Chris and others,

          Thanks for the concern.  I'm still here, just been through
          hell week here at work (major schedule review, which
          uncovered a major disconnect, resulting in the need to 'fess
          up to a slip of several months in the launch date.  Needless
          to say, major management "help" ensued).

          I've been lurking, but haven't had much time to respond.
          You can't get rid of me that easily.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 05:38:26 -0400
Subject: Re: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications

On  9 Mar 97 at 17:49, Greg Yonge wrote:

> Anyone know of any performance modifications that can be made to a
> '92 Achieva with the H.O. engine?

Is this the LGO 180 HP engine, or the SCX with the 190 HP?  A regular
Quad can be boosted with the W-41's cam, a freeer flowing exhaust,
and a better intake.  Mantapart recommended changing the exhaust -
including the cat (the factory one robs about 5HP) with a freeer
flowing model.  I have a Walker cat, whoch seemed to open the exhaust
up a lot.  I had already changed mufflers.  Simple things to increase
air flow like a K&N filter (about $30) couldn't hurt either.

The '91 and '92 H.O. engines have the best flowing heads of the bunch
(still available to retrofit newer/older engines from the factory in
the performance parts catalog), so you have a good base.  Mantapart
has a performance exhaust MANIFOLD, throttle body, and chip package
that takes the H.O. 91-92 Quad to about 210 HP for $500 (W-41's give
out 220 HP).

You can call Mantapart at (330)549-3188 - ask for Tim.  He was a lot
of help and answered a ton of questions for me.

Mike
'91 W-40 442
'93 W-41 SCX
of help with my questions...

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:44:14 -0400
Subject: Re: "56 Olds

chray@Logical.Net wrote:
>
> I have posted some pictures of my 56 Olds.  If anyone is interested
> they can be found at www.logical.net/users/cttnhill.  Let me know
> what you think...

Beauuuuuuuuuuuuutifullllllllll!

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:50:56 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI swap

theogns wrote:
>
> John M. Loban wrote:
> >
> > Want to switch to HEI in my 394 '63 olds.  Anybody know what year and
> > model GM distributors will work?  Of course the air cleaner will have to
> > be modified or changed and new primary wire run to distributor.  Any one
> > know??????  Thanks
>
> Can you use a distributor from a '64? If so Year One sells a drop in
> device that will convert a points ignition to breakerless.

Is it worth converting from points to HEI?  I keep seeing pros/cons on
this
list regarding HEI.  What is truly the techincal merit?

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 11:03:09 -0400
Subject: RE: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications

>From: Greg Yonge <gsyonge@genesisnetwork.net>
>Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 17:49:42 -0400
>Subject: '92 Achieva w/H.O. modifications
>
>Anyone know of any performance modifications that can be made to a '92
Achieva >with the H.O. engine?

Checkout Mantaparts at (330)549-3188.

Cecil
NotDads442@aol.com

1991 442 W-41

------------------------------

From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 11:53:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Swapability

Nick Gomez wrote:
>
> I am searching for a set of rear brake shoes for my 1965 Olds 98, but no
> store in Dallas has them, nor does JC Whitney. I was thinking about
> Dominic

Kanter would have it.


John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club ª254 64 Dynamic 88
OCA ª02115169 442
Dallas Metroplex74 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:25:56 -0400
Subject: Extra Capacity Oil Pans

I had a thought about a source of extra capacity oil pans for the 260-455
series of engines, at LOWER PRICES...

TRY DIESEL PANS, the diesel used a larger pan than the gasoline engine.  How
many abandoned diesels have you seen...

Remember too, when using a larger pan, it usually has greater depth, and
will require attention to the oil pump pickup.  It does much less good to
have the pickup high in the pan, instead of near the bottom.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Jim Lyons <jimbo@ti.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:41:51 -0400
Subject: paint/body work in DFW area ??

Hello, I am a newbie to this list. I recently bought a 1970 cutlass supreme
convertible that needs some body work and then paint (as well as many various
other things). I am looking for suggestions as to where to get this done in
the DFW area for a fair price. I have no idea on which shops are trustworthy
and which are rip-offs. I do not have the garage, skills, or tools to do the
work myself. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, as well as any
other advice you might have on getting this done.

thanks,
Jim

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:02:19 -0400
Subject: 67 parking lights

I've owned my '67 since new and have worked on numerous others so I am
positive of the following.

The '67 Cutlass/442 parking lights do NOT glow when the headlights are on.
Only when run as parking lights.

The original lamps were clear. I run amber in mine, they are much more
visible both as running/parking lights and turn signals.

It is difficult to see them through the lenses (there are two) in the
daylight if you are worried about "correct/original".

Moreover, the Olds Club of America Official Judging Manual says that there
should be no point deductions for added "safety equipment".  Since amber is
more visible, it is a safety change. If a judge deducts for them, he/she is
wrong. It is the same thing as adding directional signals to older cars which
never had them from the factory. In some states it is even mandatory to add
them.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:51:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Olds Parking lights

>Just a couple of questions about the parking lights on my Olds.
>1.  Are the parking lights supposed to be on when the headlights are on?

No, not for 1967. In 1968, side marker lamps were added and the parking
lights were rewired to remain on with the headlamps.

>Mine look like they have been disconnected and don't work when the head
>lights are on.  But when i have the light switch pulled out halfway the
>passenger side parking light is turned on.

That's as it should be (although the driver's side bulb should be on as
well as the passenger's side; you have either a bad bulb or a bad socket
there).

>I would really like to have them on when the headlights are running but
>don't know if that is the way they are supposed to work.

Well, no, it's not the way they are _supposed_ to work, but unless you're
going for concours restoration it would be a nice upgrade. The easiest
way to do this is to locate the wiring harness behind the dash light
switch, identify which wire goes to the front parking-light circuit and
which feeds the taillamps (that one is probably brown), and jumper them
together.

>2.   What color are the light bulbs supposed to be?  Orange or white?

Orange -- well, "amber". You can find 1157A ("A" = amber) just about
everywhere, but try to get 1157NA ("NA" = "natural amber") instead.
The former has a painted, opaque coating that quickly flakes off if
the bulb gets damp, whereas the latter has a translucent (i.e. you can
see through it) dye-like coating that won't deteriorate and makes for
a nicer color. 1157NA was the original factory type (at least it was
for 1969, the earliest one I can swear to seeing personally).

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:54:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

>Hey Guys, I'm lookin' for a fuel pump for my '71 350 4bbl w/air(2-line).
>AC has discontinued and Carter doesn't even list it any longer. Nothings
>really wrong with mine, but since I'm doing an engine overhaul I'd like
>to stick a new one on. Do I have a choice other than the Olds resoration
>catalogs?

Yes, try NAPA. I bought a replacement NAPA brand for my '76 350, brand
new part (not rebuilt), and it came with the AC logo cast into the side.
According to the counter guy, NAPA's manufacturer bought the tooling from
AC when the pump was discontinued by them and just kept on making them.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:01:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: T-3 Inquiry

>The color varies - it goes dark yellow-orange occasionally.

If it goes dark yellow-orange "occasionally", then I'm almost positive
you have a bad ground. (Hah! "positive"..."ground"... get it? *snort*
Gawd, I slay myself sometimes! Really must switch to decaf...)

>I haven't checked the bulb yet - will see about it - but I'm still
>taking Dave up on his offer.

Might as well. When you put the new ones in, clean the connectors first
(use a tiny screwdriver to pop them out of their plug housing) and wipe
them with Vaseline. You could do this now and reinstall the existing
headlamps -- this would cure that intermittent dimming -- but in my
experience, if the bulbs were marginal to begin with, the improved
connection usually serves to blow them out anyway shortly thereafter.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:18:52 -0400
Subject: Gregg Ludlam's Cutlass -Reply

>Cool looking Cutlass Gregg! I like that color!!! Duh, I just remembered I
>forgot add the
>year.....what year is that anyway.....about a 70 or so?

>Sparky

Uh, yeah... what he said.  Nice car!  That's a '72 Cutlass S, Sparkster.
Identifiable as '71 - '72 by the round signal lenses in the front bumper, &
the *two* raised portions in the hood (I believe the '70 non-O.A.I. hood only
had one raised portion in the hood -- could be wrong).  Identifiable as '72 by
the black headlight bezels.  All '71's I've seen have all-chrome bezels. And
the horizontal bars in the the grille says "Cutlass S".  Supreme's had
checkered grilles, and 442's had a smaller mesh type grille.

Nice to hear from you toro-heads every now and then... :-)

- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@cadvansys.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:38:26 -0400
Subject: Light Bulbs

Does anyone know of or know where to find replacement car bulbs with a
blacklight coating on them?  If not is there a way to get them coated?
I want to put blacklight bulbs in the interior in strategic crevices,
but all I've found are the regular size lightbuld kind.  Thanks in
advance.


- --
Gerald Hughes

79 Hurst/Olds
79 Bradley GT
84 Bronco XLT

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:59:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Extra Capacity Oil Pans

At 11:25 AM 3/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I had a thought about a source of extra capacity oil pans for the 260-455
>series of engines, at LOWER PRICES...
>
>TRY DIESEL PANS, the diesel used a larger pan than the gasoline engine.  How
>many abandoned diesels have you seen...

Check me if I'm wrong, but thought the diesel Olds V-8's have extra oil
capacity, I believe that Mondello's tech guide points out that the extra
quart comes from the oil *cooler*, not from an extra-deep pan, as in the
Toronado oiling system. The oil pan is the same, though the gasket is more
sturdy.

The trick setup, using factory parts, would be the Toronado oil pan *and*
the diesel oil filter mount with the cooler adapter lines, for a total of a
7-quart capacity using factory parts.

>Remember too, when using a larger pan, it usually has greater depth, and
>will require attention to the oil pump pickup.  It does much less good to
>have the pickup high in the pan, instead of near the bottom.

Absolutely.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:59:36 -0400
Subject: Re: HEI swap

At 09:50 AM 3/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Is it worth converting from points to HEI?  I keep seeing pros/cons on
>this
>list regarding HEI.  What is truly the techincal merit?

Considering that you can put together a real decent electronic ignition
system using factory HEI parts for about $100, you get better cranking
voltage and have a system that requires no adjustment, plus a stronger
spark, *plus* you can find parts for it everywhere, it does seem to be a
worthwhile upgrade.

OTOH, you won't realize significantly better performance than a
well-maintained points system; it's just that not many people maintain their
points-type systems that well.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Blaine Sanders 5483 <BLAINES@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:03:49 -0400
Subject: Timing Q's

What exactly is "initial timing"?  My service manual says my timing should
be at 12 deg before top dead center.  Say what?  My timing mark is at 4.  If
I advanced it to 12, the engine wouldn't even run.  Besides that, my
distributor would be turned half way around.  Could someone please
explain to me the right way to time an engine, and what all those numbers
mean?

BTW, engine is a 350, if it matters.

Thanks,
- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 01:08:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Extra Capacity Oil Pans

>I had a thought about a source of extra capacity oil pans for the 260-455
>series of engines, at LOWER PRICES...
>
>TRY DIESEL PANS, the diesel used a larger pan than the gasoline engine.  How
>many abandoned diesels have you seen...
>
>Remember too, when using a larger pan, it usually has greater depth, and
>will require attention to the oil pump pickup.  It does much less good to
>have the pickup high in the pan, instead of near the bottom.
>
>The Wiz


 Wiz....

The diesel pan is the exact same pan as the big block pan.  It uses the
stepped sump that the small block pan doesn't have.  Both pans are 4
quarts. The Toro pan is the only factory pan that has more capacity.  On
the plus side......The diesel and big block pans have a baffle in them to
keep oil in the sump that the small block pans *don't* have!

The 7 quart capacity that you see in service manuals for diesels comes from
the oil cooler, not the pan.  BTW....those coolers work GREAT!  I have one
in my drag car and on a hard day my oil temp droped from 310 degrees to
250.  I used the lines and adapter off of a diesel,  and a Chevy truck oil
cooler that mounts in front of the radiator.

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-spd
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:14:38 -0400
Subject: 3/10 1957 Chassis Parts Book For Sale

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to
sell:

1957 Oldsmobile Chassis Parts Book.  Dated January 1, 1957.  Covers
approximately 1940 to 1957 part number listings by group and
description, with illustrations.  Shop worn and a little dirty with a
few loose pages, but it all appears to be there.  $80.00, plus
shipping.  (3/10/97)

Please notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to
purchase this item or if you would like additional information about
it.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:25:23 -0400
Subject: Re: seat cover mfrers?

From: "bemet" <bemet@ix.netcom.com>

>I need to recover the seats (pearl white) of my 71 W30 conv
>I've called
>Year One- they sell PUI (?)
>Brothers - they sell their own brand
>Fusick- they sell ICP
>SuperCars- they sell Crown
>
>Does anyone have experience with any of these brands or sellers in terms of
>color and fit. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I just went thru this on my '70 442.  I ordered the kit for my front
bench seat from Year One and had the local professional install it.

Year One's catalog goes on for a couple of paragraphs about how thier
seat covers are better than original.  As far as I can tell, it fits okay
and looks good (better than the original, that had some of the panels
replaced with an incorrect texture material by the previous owner).

After 20 minutes of comparing the new front to the original back seat,
the only differences I can detect are;

  a>  New cover is more pliable.  Makes sense, 25+ year old vinyl is
      bound to be stiff.
  b>  Buttons are slightly incorrect.  The originals are flat across
      the top surface where the new ones are slightly rounded or "crowned".
      Not enough to notice though, unless your _really_ looking.
  c>  Buttons seem to be more recessed into the seat on the old covers.
      Probably also brought on by 25+ years of use.

Overall, I'm happy with the new cover.  Fit is good and it looks
a lot better than the shabby original.  My interior is black so it
would be pretty hard to mess up that color... :-)

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:28:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing Q's

In a message dated 97-03-10 13:16:09 EST, you write:

<< What exactly is "initial timing"?  My service manual says my timing should
 be at 12 deg before top dead center.  Say what?  My timing mark is at 4.  If
 I advanced it to 12, the engine wouldn't even run.  Besides that, my
 distributor would be turned half way around.  Could someone please
 explain to me the right way to time an engine, and what all those numbers
 mean?

 BTW, engine is a 350, if it matters.

 Thanks, >>
Intial timing is the timing require to start your engine and idle at without
the vaccum
advance hooked up on the distributor. Before TDC is the term for ª 1 piston
is at before ignition.  If your timing mark reads 4 degrees BTDC then you are
too low.
Yes your engine will run at 12.  As timing degree is advance, so is engine
RPM.
AS for 12 degrees, the engine will run faster so you will have to adjust the
carb
accordingly, such as reducing the idle speed.  If you look at your timing tab
is reads as follow looking from the front of the engine compartment.

          12  8  4  0  4
          Before    l   After       0 represents Top Dead Center or the
piston is at the very
top of the cylinder.   Before is before the ignition stroke and After is
after the ignition
stroke.   My car runs 18 BTDC intial with 36 degrees total.  The total timing
comes in with the car at higher RPM.  My 36 degrees comes in at 1800RPM and I
have it limited to that it goes no higher.  Vaccum advance distributors from
the factory will go as high as 50 degrees to allow better emissions and gas
milage. If you tried using 36 or 50 as intial timing, the car would not start
because at low rpm which would be cranking rpm it would take alot of energy
to start the car.


W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª555
********************************
