To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #592


oldsmobile-digest          Thursday, 3 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 592

Carburator
1957 Olds convertable
Re: T-Tops
Re: '70 Vista Cruiser
Re: Starters
RE: AC Trouble
1971 Colors and Fabrics Book For Sale (4/3)
re: '70 Cutlass Convert Body Question
Re: '70 Cutlass Convert Body Question
Re: Small starters
RE: 69 442 air cleaner
Re: Nawthun Idiom (WAS Re: chrome trim-68 Cutlass)
Parsecs & Such (WAS Re: Shave 2 seconds...)
Re: fit
Re: Compression ratios: Reply
Re: A/C trouble
Re: F85
Re: Desirability (was: Fake 442?)
3-speed to 4-speed in Delta 88
Re: Compression ratios: Reply
Re: New Olds road trip home
Re: What was that intake?
RE: A/C trouble
Re: Small starters
Re: Parsecs & Such (WAS Re: Shave 2 seconds...)
Re[2]: A/C trouble
Re: need parts,parts, and more....
Re: Compression ratios
64 OLDS F-85 CUTLASS
Re: Questins?????????
Re: Water Leaks!
R-12  (was Re: Re[2]: A/C trouble)
Re: 3-speed to 4-speed in Delta 88
8.5" rear end identification
e mail
Color portrait of your car
Re: Nawthun Idiom (WAS Re: chrome trim-68 Cutlass)
Re[2]: Questins?????????
RE: Simple '84 H/O question
Re[2]: New Olds road trip home
Re: e mail
Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home
Discs from an F-car
Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home
Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home
1970 W-30 Exhaust Manifolds?
Re: 1992 SCX Achieva for sale
Re: 1970 W-30 Exhaust Manifolds?
photos-photos-photos
Re: 1970 W-30 Exhaust Manifolds?
Re: photos-photos-photos
Re: 8.5" rear end identification
Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 03:27:50 -0400
Subject: Carburator

The carburator in my '81 Delta 88 307 is on its last legs.  Would a
carburator from another car fit to give me better performance.  Lots of
junk-yard parts, so Olds, Chevy, Pontiac, whatever carb is accesable.  If
there is a carb that would do the job, how much more fuel will it use.
Would I need to 'make' it fit.  Thanks.

------------------------------

From: "Robert Russell" <RcRussell@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 14:56:11 -0400
Subject: 1957 Olds convertable

Looking for a 1957 Oldsmobile  convertable. Prefer Super 88 but 98 OK. I am
having a rough time locating one in good shape. Need help locating one, hope
you can help. I am considering anything between 1953 - 1957 convertable.
Thanks     rcrussell@msn.com

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 07:19:27 -0400
Subject: Re: T-Tops

> Parts book shows same ª's for 82 to 88, but they show a latch ª change in
> '86.  Of course, I have yet to see a RWD Cutlass of '88 model year, ever....
> Much less an '88 with T-tops...   Hmm.


Easy to spot, most were dubbed "Cutlass Supreme Classic"

Sorta tacky, but it was the "newest" of the G body's before GM killed
them.

Can't say I have seen one in a while.  Saw a bunch in 88....

A friend of mine has/had a 82 with t's, had a 231 "A", now has 403 after
a short run with a Buick 350.  It didn't last, so he sold the car to his
nephew, and he installed the 403 a few months ago.  I have heard it runs
well.  T-Tops rattle a lot though.

Can anyone tell me if the 455 fits well in the 81-88 Cutlass?  I have
developed an engine problem, and if costs rise too much, I am looking at
a 350 swap or if I am insane, 455.  I am just wondering if it is worth
it.


Thomas Martin
1985 Cutlass 307

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 07:25:28 -0400
Subject: Re: '70 Vista Cruiser

At 12:33 AM 4/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>   A good friend just bought a '70 Vista Cruiser that he wants to put back
>together and is in really good shape.  It has 77,000 miles on it with an
>excellent interior and most of the body except for right front.  It got hit
>pretty good on the right front and needs the inner and outer fender, lower
>and probably upper a-frames as well as steering link and maybe a couple of
>other suspension pieces. The frame seems to be unscathed but won't know
>until it gets gauged.  He's located much of what he needs except for the
>hood. So we need to know if the '70 cutlass hood is the same as the Vista
>Cruiser hood.
>
> Thanks
> Glenn    gpc442@bufnet.net
>
Glenn

        The Vista Cruiser's hood is the same as the Cutlass Supreme. It
should be completely flat.

Jim Chermack>

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 07:31:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Starters

>
> I'm looking for a way to fit a starter onto my car.  The stock starter
> almost fits, but touches the headers.  There are aftermarket starters
> that are smaller, but the ones I have seen cost about $250.  For that
> price, I'd wrap my starter motor in a heat shield and try that until
> something goes wrong and then pay the 39.95 for a rebuilt one.  The
> headers won't ding, they're Doug Tholorley's.
> Any suggestions???
> Brad
> 70 442



I can recommend the factory size for the 1980 Turbo Trans AM starter.
You may have to go to the dealer to get the right one, I still have my
original.  It was shrunk for weight savings.  I don't know what size
the  remanufactured one is.  It may not last as long with a high
compression motor, but it is a worthy starter and it is smaller than the
old large Heavy Duty one.

Nice thing,
Pontiac and Olds use the same style starters
Buick and Chevy use the same style.
Cadillac ???

Not all apps will interchange, but it is worth checking out.

Thomas Martin

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 07:45:20 -0400
Subject: RE: AC Trouble

For the record, I have never met a shop that would not pull the freon
out for you for free.  They benefit, because they get your freon, and
you don't polute the atmosphere.

So just ask around.  Personally, I would start with the dealer.  Just
tell them what you are doing and you want them to suck it out.  If they
are willing helpful, they stand a good chance at getting the recharge
business.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass 307

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 08:08:29 -0400
Subject: 1971 Colors and Fabrics Book For Sale (4/3)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

1971 Oldsmobile Colors And Fabrics showroom book.  Thrity-six 10-1/2 x
10 inch pages of fabric samples in each available color for the 1971
Oldsmobile product line, from the F-85 to the Toronado.  In the original
embossed three ring binder.  Fair original condition, from obvious use
when it was new.  Not at all torn up though.  $20.00, plus shipping
costs. (4/3/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Jim Lyons <jimbo@ti.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 08:33:20 -0400
Subject: re: '70 Cutlass Convert Body Question

Just took it in to have some body work done and painted. The shop owner
pointed out that it had been bondo'd between the trunk and the edge of the
window (where the rear quarter panels end??). He was not sure if there should
be a seam there or not and how much of one there should be. I have not been
able to look at another 70 cutlass convert to get an idea. Does anyone out
there know how this should be?

Thanks,
Jim

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 02:41:03 -0400
Subject: Re: '70 Cutlass Convert Body Question

Jim Lyons wrote:
>
> Just took it in to have some body work done and painted. The shop owner
pointed > out that it had been bondo'd between the trunk and the edge of the
window > (where the rear quarter panels end??). He was not sure if there
should be a > seam there or not and how much of one there should be. I have
not been able to > look at another 70 cutlass convert to get an idea. Does
anyone out there know > how this should be? > > Thanks, > Jim

Jim,

On my '68 convetible, the seam is filled w/lead.  I believe that to be
original.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

Southern idiom: Remember: "Y'all" is singular.
                          "All y'all" is plural
                          "All y'alls" is plural possessive

------------------------------

From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:08:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Small starters

I had that problem, it was real close so I put 2 gaskets (thick ones) on that
side to move the header out towards the fender . It may not sound very
professional but considering the cost it was worth it.Subj:Small starters

>I'm looking for a way to fit a starter onto my car.  The stock starter
>almost fits, but touches the headers.  There are aftermarket starters
>that are smaller, but the ones I have seen cost about $250.  For that
>price, I'd wrap my starter motor in a heat shield and try that until
>something goes wrong and then pay the 39.95 for a rebuilt one.  The
>headers won't ding, they're Doug Tholorley's.
>Any suggestions???
>Brad
>70 442

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:07:00 -0400
Subject: RE: 69 442 air cleaner

You Wrote:

hi, my name is Jeff . I'm new here but not to oldsmobiles. Here;s my
question, is a 69 442 air cleaner the same as a 69 cutlass , except t=
he
color? My current one is off a 67 442.

******************
The 442 air cleaner has a slightly bigger snorkel than the Cutlass. B=
oth are=20
painted red, however.

John Pajak     DR OLDS
Lexington Park, Maryland

******************


















































                                                                     =
        =20

                        thanks



















                                                                     =
        =20


jeff nelson
69 442 convert

=BF

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 08:48:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Nawthun Idiom (WAS Re: chrome trim-68 Cutlass)

> > "War of Northern Aggression" events.  Also, we run a li'l marathon on that
day. > > > > Tim > > Tim, > > Is that where the tradition came from.  My
grandma told me about how > well Yankees could run.

Wish we New Englanders could live up to that reputation, but no one from
around here has won the dang race for years.

> It has been quite nice here since 1 March.  We may get some rain out of
> this last storm over the weekend though.  That may spoil the cruise &
> parade at sonic.  I guess that means the top goes up on the 442
> Saturday.

> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama

I remember, when we were living in Huntsville AL in the late 60s, how
a "snow storm" of 3 whole inches paralyzed Tennessee and 'Bama for nigh
on a week.  That musta been when y'all rolled up yer drivers windows
and forgot to roll 'em down again when you were into your chaw.

> Southern idiom:  When moving into your new southern home, have the
> moving men leave the freezer on the front porch.  This way you won't
> look out of place.

We do the same up here in New England, we just hide the freezer behind
a coupla cords of fire wood.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 08:41:02 -0400
Subject: Parsecs & Such (WAS Re: Shave 2 seconds...)

> >So, then it'll do the 1/4 mile in 12 parsecs?
>
> Sorry but a parsec is a measure of distance, not time!

I figured it would be the Wiz to flag this one :)

Yeah, that was considered *the* big blooper when Star Wars came out in '77.

Although, Asimov, after seeing the flick, simply wrote it off as a minor
glitch, akin to a "typo" in a novel, in an otherwise excellent storyline.

I have also heard that in the physics of hyperspace travel -- yes, there are
folks who are lucky enough to be *paid* to research such things -- it is
concievable that a measure of hyperdrive capability would be by what distance
one "warps" the actual distance, such that the Kessel Run Han Solo brags about
might be 25 parsecs in actual  distance, which the Millenium Falcon's drive
shortened to 12.

Yet another theory holds that Han was laying it on so thick for Obi-Wan
and Luke, that he got tripped up in his techno-babble.

Philosophical question:

If an Olds -- motivated by a properly tuned 455 -- were travelling at the
speed of light, and the driver turned on the headlights, would anything
happen?



Tim (Trying to Keep Dry in the Rust Melt, err, Belt ) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 08:38:14 -0400
Subject: Re: fit

OL>Can anyone tell me if the 455 fits well in the 81-88 Cutlass?  I have
OL>developed an engine problem, and if costs rise too much, I am looking at
OL>a 350 swap or if I am insane, 455.  I am just wondering if it is worth
OL>it.


OL>Thomas Martin
OL>1985 Cutlass 307

I replaced the v6 with a 455 with headers in an '82 I use to have. It
went in with no problem.

Daren

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 10:38:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression ratios: Reply

Snips

>On a different note,  I find it  surprising that my Cutlass is 400 lbs
>lighter than my Z/28, and the Cutlass has a full frame/full metal body while
>the Camaro has mostly a SMC (fiberglass) body. Fiberglass must be heavy....
>- - - - - - - - - - -
>Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
>93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
>Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
>80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made
>
>
>
Back in the earliest days of the Corvette, it was discovered that
fiberglass, if anything was heavier than a comparable steel body, both in
thickness and weight.  Also each body panel was substantially more
expensive.  However, the savings in tooling costs for a short run body was
more than enough to make up for the difference.

Also the life of a 'bearing' automobile engines are vary comparable: is
directly proportional to the load it carries and the speed at which it runs.
Get out a Ball bearing catalog and look.  Run at high load = HP, and high
speed = rpm, the bearing will fail sooner than at low hp and rpm.  A ball
bearing catalog will show this graphically, and the curve is not linear.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 10:44:29 -0400
Subject: Re: A/C trouble

At 03:00 AM 4/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I recently decided to have my long-gone A/C checked.  They say I need a new
>compressor and a systems recharge.  I could pick one up at the yard for
>about 12 bucks.  The car is a 1981 Delta 88 307.  If anyone knows the
>difficulty of changing a compressor, any advice will be welcome.  The other
>alternative is to get rid of the A/C system.  In that case, what is the
>difficulty involved and how much weight would I loose on the car.  Are
>there performance advanages. Any suggestions are welcome.
>
>P.S. I live in Calgary, and belive it or not it gets hot here.
>
>

It's almost an unbolt situation, to discard the A/C system.  It is also
fairly easy to replace the A/C compressor.

The weight loss however, is substantial; probablly in excess of 100lbs, or
45kg if you prefer.

By the weigh, now that the English have dropped the English system of
measure, does that make it the American system, by default?

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 10:45:59 -0400
Subject: Re: F85

>
> I apologize for not knowing the correct terms here, I will try to describe
> what is rubbing. It is a bar that looks like it connects the box at the
> end of the steering column to the steering mechanism attached to the right
> front tire. the point of contact is just in front of the frame that the
> engine mounts are on.
>       I am not sure if this is related, but there seems to be a ton of
> play in the steering. I can turn the wheel almost a quarter turn without a
> reaction at times. That is not not normal, is it?

all that slop in the steering isn't correct.  any 64-72 A-body steering
box will bolt in place.  you should be able to pick one up in a junkyard
for under $50.  hop in the car and test it first of course, and check the
number of turns lock-to-lock (full left to full right).  If yours is a
power steering unit, in 64 the steering boxes were in excess of 5 turns
lock to lock,  you can find faster ratio steering boxes on 70's A-bodies.
Manuals are hard to find, and generally, when you do find them,
they have a high number of turns lock to lock to make easier to steer
the car (GM was selling to all kinds of people, including weak armed people).

like another poster said, it sounds like your center link that is rubbing
and it is as bad as he stated.  the idler arm is right side of the
car, and is located about where the pitman arm (the arm that goes to the
bottom of the steering box) is on the left side.

> Parts I know I will be needing are chrome wheel trim and molding, steering
> wheel, seat belts, cigarette lighter, all the whether stripping, glove box.
> Others... we'll see.

A lot of the weather stripping can found at Year One (they are a good
source, expensive, but good), Their phoneª can be found in any of the
muscle car rags.  I think they have a glove box, too.

steering wheel, chrome trim and mold are junkyard items. sometimes a junkman
will want to keep the trim with the fender, so it may be hard to find all
the trim, and expensive when you do.  (there is a 64 in a yard near me
and I asked him what he'd want for the wheel molding trim, and the rocker
panels and he said $100 if I pull it.... no thanks....   Try calling
Old Car City USA in Cartersville GA, ( area code 770 or 706) 974-6144.
he has 3-4 64 Olds, he ships, and he is a little more reasonable than the
guy near me.  since the stock steering wheels were color matched to the
interior color, you may have trouble finding the right wheel.

your mileage isn't going to improve much.  treat it to a good tune up,
points, condenser, plugs, wires, cap , rotor and set the timing and
check the dwell.

If you are interested in getting more perfomance, get a 330 4bbl manifold
and a Edelbrock or Carter AFB, and dual exhaust.

The Olds symbol on your car was just the Olds symbol at the time.


Doug Ahern      doug@cosmic.uga.edu  1964 F-85 Cutlass
http://www.cosmic.uga.edu/doug.html  1969 Dart
Sys Admin, COSMIC, Univ. of Georgia  1974 Satellite ex-cop car

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 10:45:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Desirability (was: Fake 442?)

Nick DiGiovanni wrote:

> eg. Oldsmobile 1970
>
> Condition-->6         5      4      3       2       1
>
> 4-4-2 Post    $500  $1550  $2600  $5200   $9100  $13000
> 2dHT          $700  $2150  $3600  $7200  $12600  $18000
> Conv.         $800  $2500  $4200  $8400  $14700  $21000

Thanks for this information.

1) Can I make a request for 1968 like the above?

2) Does "Old Cars Weekly News & Marketplace" have a web site?

3) What does 1 through 6 signify?

Thanks in advance,

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 08:58:56 -0400
Subject: 3-speed to 4-speed in Delta 88

OL>The tranny in my '81 Delta 88 307 is a stock 3-speed.  A close-by junk-yard
OL>has trannys on sale for about 25 bucks.  I know that 83-85 Deltas have
OL>mostly 4-speeds.  So, the quesion is could I put a 4-speed from one of
OL>those in, how hard would it be and what are the special tools required.
OL>Since my transmision is good will I gain anything in the swap making it
OL>worthowhile (eg. mpg, performance), and also, how reliable are the
OL>4-speeds.  Thanks.


I would assume you have either a turbo 200 or 350 now. If so then a
200r4 should bolt right in. This isn't mandatory but you might want to
also change the gate detent plate (or what ever it's called) so that
your shifter will have a position for all four gears.

If I remember right a 200r4 has a .67 overdrive gear. So to figure out
your rpm with a 200r4        .67 * rear gear * 168 * mph / tire radius =
rpm

You also want to make sure you have enough gear in the rear end to keep
your rpm's a little higher than your stall speed otherwise your tranny
will slip and over heat it.


Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:11:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression ratios: Reply

On a different note,  I find it  surprising that my Cutlass is 400 lbs
lighter than my Z/28, and the Cutlass has a full frame/full metal body
while
the Camaro has mostly a SMC (fiberglass) body. Fiberglass must be
heavy....

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts
(rear+t.s.
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made


Your Z/28 has abs, air bag, more wiring, computers, probley bigger
tires, and since it's a unibody thicker metal floor and supports.


Daren

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 11:09:14 -0400
Subject: Re: New Olds road trip home

>The info below can hopefully help reduce the gotchas
>involved in such a long trip with an unfamiliar car.
>     o 2 cases oil                 $24
>     o 5 qts trans fluid           $ 8
[...blah, blah, blah...]
>     o duct tape                   $ 2
>     o electrical tape             $ 1
>                                   ---
>                                 ~ $67
>
>These items should allow you to "limp" the car to a service station,

Oh, nonsense. Look, forget the other items on the above list and just
buy $67 worth of duct tape. (Try to buy it on sale for biggest quantity.)
If the car breaks down, wrap one end of the tape securely around the tie
rod or other strong piece (not the hood ornament), then start walking
toward the nearest gas station, unwrapping the tape as you go. When you
arrive, ask them to pull on the other end of the tape, and keep hauling
until an Oldsmobile appears. Piece of cake. (Ask them to wrap the tape
carefully as they bring it in so you can reuse it next time.)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 11:40:14 -0400
Subject: Re: What was that intake?

My '85 Cutlass has the aluminum intake and it's not the H/O or 442
model.  It has the 307 Y in it.


On Wed, 2 Apr 1997, Tom Lentz wrote:

>
>      Assuming it doesn't have the obvious "Edelbrock" stamped on it, then
>      it's probably a late-model SB olds intake.  The 260's _all_ came with
>      aluminum intakes, but are easy to ID because of the small port size
>      and 2bbl carb flange.  The 307 VIN 9's (The high-output version on
>      '83-'84 H/O's, and '85-'88 442's) came with an aluminum 4bbl manifold.
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com
>
>

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <FBoerger@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 11:38:33 -0400
Subject: RE: A/C trouble

IT wrote:

- -snip-

>...my long-gone A/C checked.  They say I need a new
>compressor and a systems recharge.  I could pick one up at the yard for
>about 12 bucks.... . Any suggestions are welcome.

I just finished converting two of my long-gone a/c cars to R-134a.  One
system had leaked, so it was empty. The other had a compressor tie-up, and
so was full of r-12.  My local a/c place vacuumed out the old freon at no
charge, because like was said, they got over $ 50 worth of freon in the
process.

I fixed the leak on the one system (bad o-ring only), flushed out the old
oil, installed a new drier/accumulator (GM type), installed ester oil and
high side conversion fitting (for 134a systems), vacuumed it down (with
this cool little venturi box I bought from Harbor freight that worked with
my air compressor), installed low-side over fitting, charged with R-134a,
road test, and it's still cool 5 weeks later.

The other car (Plymouth mini-van w/ 206,000 mi.!), lost one of the ball
bearings that work to wobble the pistons.  I bought a re-built compressor
w/clutch for $ 179, new drier for $ 23, oil, refridgerant, flusher and
fittings for about  $ 35 more, repeat above process, still coll after 4
weeks (did it the next weekend).

Local A/C shops told me I'd have over $ 1000 in both repairs, not including
converting to the
user-enviro-semi-friendly-that-I-can-install-myself-for-now-until-they-chan
ge-the-law R-134A.

My wife said I can buy some more tools now !

Advice:  I'd get a cheap compressor, make sure it's free from dirt and old
r-12 oil, flush the old system, suck it down, install r-134A if that's
available and legal in Canada, and drive around cool !  R-134A is not quite
as cool a refridgerant as r-12, but it sure beats July !  Any o-rings that
you  disturb should be replaced with the r-134a compatible type
material...most on the rack today are good for either gas.

Let the debate begin !!

Frank Boerger//Tallahassee, FL

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:02:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Small starters

>
> I'm looking for a way to fit a starter onto my car.  The stock starter
> almost fits, but touches the headers.  There are aftermarket starters
> that are smaller, but the ones I have seen cost about $250.  For that
> price, I'd wrap my starter motor in a heat shield and try that until
> something goes wrong and then pay the 39.95 for a rebuilt one.  The
> headers won't ding, they're Doug Tholorley's.
> Any suggestions???
> Brad
> 70 442
>
Maybe Doug headers are really thick, but I used a Mapp gas torch to heat
the area until it's cherry red, then using an appropriate socket on an
extention, hammer the crap out it until the radius goes around your
starter.  My Blackjack headers had to be clearanced in about 10 areas!
greg

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 15:13:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Parsecs & Such (WAS Re: Shave 2 seconds...)

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> If an Olds -- motivated by a properly tuned 455

More likely a Toro with a 425 since it'll rev higher.   ;)

> -- were travelling at the speed of light, and the driver turned
> on the headlights, would anything happen?

According to Einstein, not much.  Since you've already left the F*ords
and Ch*vys in the intersteller dust (they having only impulse) there
wouldn't be anything left to see.

Albert did prove; however, that you could lower your ETs into negative
numbers by completing the 1/4 mile before you left the starting line.
A interesting side benefit was that your car got a year newer each run.
If you did this enough times, the dealer would have to start honoring
the warranty again.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 04:11:29 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: A/C trouble

     I agrew with Charlie for the most part.  I would add the fact that you
     should look into alternative refrigerants.  I have sort of made a
     resolution that if my compressor ever needs service I'm going to look
     into alternatives to freon.  Since you have to evac the system and
     change compressors, now's a perfect time.  I'm not sure what's out
     there right now, but I've seen web sites that give rundowns of the
     summary, dunno the URL though.

     <soapbox>

     Personally I wish they would okay the refrigerants with butane in
     them, they work as well as freon, but the EPA says no because they are
     flammable (never mind that the EPA's job is to protect the
     environment, and as long as it doesn't destroy the atmosphere what
     business is it of theirs if it's flammable?).  Most people don't seem
     to mind driving around with half that much butane in their
     _front_pocket_ held together by a cheap plastic case (lighter).
     Wouldn't bother me in the AC system. . .

     </soapbox>


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: A/C trouble Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/2/97 11:48 PM

Noooooo, Don't axe the AC!!!  It's hard to be cool if you can't stay cool!
Changing compressors is cake.  The toughest part is evacuating the system,
although it's been rumored that some just vent the R-12 into the air.  (I'd
~never~ do such a thing, nor would I have done it on the two or three
compressors I've changed....)  They make recovery systems to suck it all
out, but if its already discharged, you're in good shape.  Canadian laws
might be different concerning R-12 disposal, too.  The junk yard may have
evac'd the systems already, you might check with them.  You could have the
AC place evac your system, then you could change the compressor (and
filter/drier, don't forget that!) and then they could recharge the system
again.  Make sure the O-rings aren't damaged, they're rather critical to
proper sealing.

------------------------------

From: "Curtis A. Stanley" <d43cas@morgan.ucs.mun.ca>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:20:25 -0400
Subject: Re: need parts,parts, and more....

On Thu, 3 Apr 1997, Jo-Anne Hillier wrote:

> 64 olds cutlass F-85 conv.(canadian car) 4 spd. 330
> need:
> 4 spd shifter
> center console
> steering wheel
> side chrome
> wheel well chrome

> door mirrors
> rear side windows
> bumpers
> fuel tank
> front signal lenses
> back-up lenses
> rocker panel chrome
> red door panels
> other than that the car is perfect.
> Scott
> kozhill@titanlink.com
>
>
>
i recall a 64 forsale in my area (Newfoundland Canada).  ill check the
papers to see if i can find it again and let you know.


Curtis Stanley
66 Olds Delta 88 4-door HT

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:39:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression ratios

>When I had my engine rebuilt, I had the option of using either 10:1
>compression or 8.6:1.  I opted for the 8.6:1 compression so it would run
>better on pump gas and possibly last longer.  But I want to know
>exactally what performance I have lost by doing so.
>Brad
>70 442

Congradulations! You're now ready for a blower! 10:1 would make this highly
unlikey...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:43:00 -0400
Subject: 64 OLDS F-85 CUTLASS

      Date:  04/03/1997  08:43 am  (Thursday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  64 OLDS F-85 CUTLASS

SORRY, I DIDN'T CATCH TEH NAME OF THE PERSON
WHO SAID THEY HAVE GOOD PARTS SOURCES FOR
THIS YEAR.  IF YOU CAN, PLEASE CONTACT ME, I'M
LOOKING FOR THE LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT FENDER
WHEEL MOULDINGS,  AND A RIGHT SIDE HOOD HINGE.
THANKS!!!!

------------------------------

From: Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:05:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Questins?????????

>          Hello its Enio, again w/more questions on my '87 Olds. Cut. Sup.
307 > ci. > >    ª 1.) I want to change my exhaust on my car but don't
want to go crazy > with it.  The factory exhaust is still on.  I want to know
whether to put on > a cat-back or a true dual exhaust(headers back) and I
don't want it to sound > too loud but want to have a nice sound and still have
good power.  What > should I do? > Enio,

I have asked this same question for my 87 442 and really didn't
get to much of a response.  Correct me if I am wrong, but the Cutlass
came with the single exhaust from the cat-back where the 442 splits after
the cat and sends 2 pipes back.

I have heard from a friend but have not seen the ad but Flowmaster makes
a cat-back system for the Cutlass & 442's that is 3" all the way back.
For more information or to even check if this exists I would call
Flowmaster directly.  A few questions that I would ask would include
with the 3" pipes if ground clearance is a problem.  I would also like to
know if this kit is single or dual pipes as well, and finally if this is
two pipes what size are the mufflers.  I know on the 442's the mufflers
are very small and I have had no luck in finding a performance turbo
muffler to fit this application.

As for putting on true dual exhaust, the question should be do I want to
keep this thing emmisions legal.  More than likely not, however I have
looked into the Edelbrock emmisions legal header package and they
currently do not make a set-up for our model.

To answer your question about how to tighten your power steering belt I
would to look this up, but if I recall correctly there is 2 locking bolts
that keep the pump stationary and a third bolt that the assembly pivots
on.  Reguardless of how many bolts there are I still recall all the
cussing when replacing this belt.  Good Luck!!

Tim

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442Plates [1987 W42]

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:11:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Leaks!

At 09:26 PM 3/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 11:53 AM 3/20/97 -0400, Andy Geeting wrote:
>>Hey everyone,
>>     I'm having some problems with my '88 cultass. There seems to be a leak
>>coming from the drivers side firewall. Does anyone know what might cause
>>this? It used to do it on my '87 cutlass also, is this a common trait
>>amongst them?
>>Please help! It is really saturated! Thanks in advance.
>
>If I use  a pressure washer to wash my 80 442 it leaks in the exact same
>area. I am puzzled as to where it is coming from also.
>
>
>
 Well, I took the car to a body shop close by and they found the problem.
Apparently the water is coming in through the windshield. You know that
silver piece at the bottom of the windshield? Well that's where its getting
in, they said it would cost anywhere from $30-$70 to fix but wouldn't go
over a $100. Thanks everyone for the help!

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 04:22:42 -0400
Subject: R-12  (was Re: Re[2]: A/C trouble)

Just an FYI.  There is a website that claims to get you EPA certification to
buy refrigerants for automobiles.  I haven't looked into it yet so there's a
chance it's a scam, but I know someone who has gotten certification through
the mail and he said it was cheap and easy.

the url is at http://www.epatest.com/

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 05:11:31 -0400
Subject: Re: 3-speed to 4-speed in Delta 88

     All of the 200-4R's should have lockup torque converters so this isn't
     an issue when at speed.  I've heard that driving these without the TCC
     locked up is a good way to burn them up (just like you mentioned).
     I'm not positive, but I think the 200's and TH350's were also lockup
     converter equipped in that year.  In which case you simply have to
     move the wire over.  If not, you can either hook up a simple toggle
     switch (I'd get fancy using a momentary pushutton to energize a relay
     and light an LED and tie the brake lights into the system to
     de-energize the relay and unlock the TCC when you use the brake), or
     find the wire from the computer (can't help you there), or Summit
     sells a kit to lock up the converter in non-computerized cars.

     As it is, the benefit would be gas mileage and reduced engine wear
     from lower RPM's.  If you swapped the rear gears out for something
     steeper, you could gain a bit of performance while still using the
     overdrive to still keep your RPM's at or below where they were with
     your 3-speed (in 4th gear).

     Be sure to get the TV (throttle valve?) cable and the mounting bracket
     from the new car too, since I think the TH350's use a vacuum line
     instead of the mechanical link.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: 3-speed to 4-speed in Delta 88
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/3/97 7:19 AM

You also want to make sure you have enough gear in the rear end to keep
your rpm's a little higher than your stall speed otherwise your tranny
will slip and over heat it.

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:17:14 -0400
Subject: 8.5" rear end identification

Hey everyone,

   Well now I'm looking for an 8.5" rear end for my '87 Cutlass and wanted
to know how to I.D. one. Does anybody know the codes for this rear end and
where it is located? I know these rears came in the 442's and the GN's but I
would like to know for sure what I am getting. Also, can someone tell me
what to look for when I'm checking it out so that I get one that is in good
shape? Thanks!

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: GDJR14E@prodigy.com (MS CINDY L NICK)
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:14:11 -0400
Subject: e mail

how can i get off this list 1800 e mails a day is too many

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:28:39 -0400
Subject: Color portrait of your car

From: Michael Baugher on 04/03/97 11:28 AM

     Hi all. I hope advertising a service isn't forbidden...

     I'm an artist and an Olds man.  If you've ever considered having
     a color pastel portrait done of your car, mail me a good photo of it,
     and I'll draw a 16x20 inch portrait and ship it to you.  I do very
good
     work and love cars, so I pay special attention to the details.  If
you're
     interested, e-mail me for my mailing address where you can send a
     photo of your car.  The cost is $75, which includes shipping within
the
     U.S.  Doesn't include framing.

     Thanks!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 07:19:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Nawthun Idiom (WAS Re: chrome trim-68 Cutlass)

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > Is that where the tradition came from.  My grandma told me about how
> > well Yankees could run.
>
> Wish we New Englanders could live up to that reputation, but no one from
> around here has won the dang race for years.

Oh, I never said that we couldn't catch ya.  I just meant that it could
be a good race.


Bill Culp
 Decatur, Alabama
>
>
> We do the same up here in New England, we just hide the freezer behind
> a coupla cords of fire wood.
>
> Tim Churchill

A related Southern idiom: Satellite dishes are very popular in the
South.  When you purchase one it is to be positioned directly in front
of your trailer.  This is logical bearing in mind that the dish cost
cosiderably more than the trailer and should, therefore, be displayed

PS.  I have to run.  Olds content next post.

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:37:06 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Questins?????????

Look very closely at the ps bracket behind the pulley. There is a 1/2" or
9/16" adjusting bolt. You can barely see it. Your box end wrench will just
fit to loosen that bolt. Good luck.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get a copy for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: GDJR14E@prodigy.com (MS CINDY L NICK)
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:35:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Simple '84 H/O question

my 84 both strips front and back are silver.  The header panel
ornament is well out of stock.  I know I tried a local olds dealer
last month.

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:39:56 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home

Ha, ha! Arf, arf!! Another use for duct tape! Does the synthetic type work
better?

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get a copy for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------
Oh, nonsense. Look, forget the other items on the above list and just
buy $67 worth of duct tape. (Try to buy it on sale for biggest quantity.)
If the car breaks down, wrap one end of the tape securely around the tie
rod or other strong piece (not the hood ornament), then start walking
toward the nearest gas station, unwrapping the tape as you go. When you
arrive, ask them to pull on the other end of the tape, and keep hauling
until an Oldsmobile appears. Piece of cake. (Ask them to wrap the tape
carefully as they bring it in so you can reuse it next time.)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:44:52 -0400
Subject: Re: e mail

MS CINDY L NICK wrote:
>
> how can i get off this list 1800 e mails a day is too many

>From CCN Majordomo:

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
you can send mail to "majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca" with the following
command in the body of your email message:

    unsubscribe oldsmobile "MS CINDY L NICK" <GDJR14E@prodigy.com>

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 14:15:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home

Speaking of duct tape, I heard a funny riddle today.

Q.  What does a (insert the name of your least favorite automotive company
    for the purposes of this joke I'll use...) Yugo tool-kit consist of?

A.  A rubber band, a roll of duct tape, and a bottle of Jack Daniels!


Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.



On Thu, 3 Apr 1997, David Brown wrote:

> Ha, ha! Arf, arf!! Another use for duct tape! Does the synthetic type work
> better?
>
> David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
>
> Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
> http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
> http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm
>
> Get a copy for local viewing from:
> ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
>
> ------------
> Oh, nonsense. Look, forget the other items on the above list and just
> buy $67 worth of duct tape. (Try to buy it on sale for biggest quantity.)
> If the car breaks down, wrap one end of the tape securely around the tie
> rod or other strong piece (not the hood ornament), then start walking
> toward the nearest gas station, unwrapping the tape as you go. When you
> arrive, ask them to pull on the other end of the tape, and keep hauling
> until an Oldsmobile appears. Piece of cake. (Ask them to wrap the tape
> carefully as they bring it in so you can reuse it next time.)
>
> Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 14:13:25 -0400
Subject: Discs from an F-car

Does anyone know the specifics of swapping front disc brakes from a 2nd
generation F-body to an A-body?  I want to find out what modifications, if
any, are necessary.  They will be going on a '67 442.

Thanks,
Paul Rousseau

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 14:25:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home

>Oh, nonsense. Look, forget the other items on the above list and just
>buy $67 worth of duct tape. (Try to buy it on sale for biggest quantity.)
>If the car breaks down, wrap one end of the tape securely around the tie
>rod or other strong piece (not the hood ornament), then start walking
>toward the nearest gas station, unwrapping the tape as you go. When you
>arrive, ask them to pull on the other end of the tape, and keep hauling
>until an Oldsmobile appears. Piece of cake. (Ask them to wrap the tape
>carefully as they bring it in so you can reuse it next time.)
>
>Andrew C. Green

Hint: Make sure to unwrap the tape so the adhesive side is up. Having
pedestrians stuck to it like fly paper is better than having it adhere to
the road.

Ray
34467x

'70 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 13:40:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home

- --0__=KhQM7oJ4WY4wRm91IHZD0GnVWZl6S2msO1BD8fhuPAhzrdUHJWzvF8rI
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII



From: Michael Baugher on 04/03/97 12:40 PM

Actually, you could insert Oldsmobile in there...those are all the tools
your old rocket should ever need!



 (Embedded image
 moved to file:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
 PIC05398.PCX)   04/03/97 12:15 PM




Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Michael Baugher/MO/americancentury)
Subject:  Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home




Speaking of duct tape, I heard a funny riddle today.

Q.  What does a (insert the name of your least favorite automotive company
    for the purposes of this joke I'll use...) Yugo tool-kit consist of?

A.  A rubber band, a roll of duct tape, and a bottle of Jack Daniels!


Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.



On Thu, 3 Apr 1997, David Brown wrote:

> Ha, ha! Arf, arf!! Another use for duct tape! Does the synthetic type
work > better?
>
> David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
>
> Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
> http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
> http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm
>
> Get a copy for local viewing from:
> ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
>
> ------------
> Oh, nonsense. Look, forget the other items on the above list and just
> buy $67 worth of duct tape. (Try to buy it on sale for biggest quantity.)
> If the car breaks down, wrap one end of the tape securely around the tie
> rod or other strong piece (not the hood ornament), then start walking
> toward the nearest gas station, unwrapping the tape as you go. When you
> arrive, ask them to pull on the other end of the tape, and keep hauling
> until an Oldsmobile appears. Piece of cake. (Ask them to wrap the tape
> carefully as they bring it in so you can reuse it next time.)
>
> Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>
>
>




- --0__=KhQM7oJ4WY4wRm91IHZD0GnVWZl6S2msO1BD8fhuPAhzrdUHJWzvF8rI
Content-type: application/octet-stream;
name="PIC05398.PCX"
Content-transfer-encoding: base64
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- --0__=KhQM7oJ4WY4wRm91IHZD0GnVWZl6S2msO1BD8fhuPAhzrdUHJWzvF8rI--

------------------------------

From: DanBSmith1@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 15:07:48 -0400
Subject: 1970 W-30 Exhaust Manifolds?

I have been searching for a set of exhaust manifolds for a 70 W-30.  I have
found a set with the numbers 402294 & 402295 on them.  I looked for a casting
date and found 1294, but I do not know if this is a casting date. The person
who has them says they are 70 W-30 items but I doubt his knowledge of
Oldsmobiles since he thinks his 62 Rambler Station Wagon is a great classic
and worth far more than a 70 W-30 442 simply because it is older and built by
a company no longer in business.  Yea, I know what is worth the most but just
thought I might enlighten your day with those words of wisdom.  Anyway, are
these 70 W-30 manifolds?  If not, what did they come off of?  They are in
excellent condition, what are they worth?

Thanks,
Dan The Olds Man

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 16:40:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 1992 SCX Achieva for sale

In a message dated 97-03-26 22:58:24 EST, Mr James Pindar wrote:

<<  83K hiway miles,  >>


Hmmm. Ok, but how many city miles? :-}

KA

------------------------------

From: OldsDr@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 16:40:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 1970 W-30 Exhaust Manifolds?

I have never seen a difference between W-30 exhaust manifolds and regular 442
exhaust manifolds.  Plus I remember reading an article in JWO explaning that
there was no difference.

------------------------------

From: reospeeder@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 16:58:02 -0400
Subject: photos-photos-photos

I have been of town for a few days and when I downloaded my mail it took 27
minutes.  Somebody sent baby pictures.  Talk about spam!  I do computer
graphics for a living and have a pretty powerful MAC with 256 megs of ram
and a fast clock speed.  I have a lot of hard drive, and more graphics
programs than I need.  I don't know whether it's the Digest or the
arrogance of PC/Windows users, but all I get is page after page of code.

I am sure you guys love your cars, I love mine.  But I can't play anymore.
It takes all the time I can allocate for just to download.

You guys need to work out some other kind of system for sending fotos.
Something by request, rather than loading up the provider's storage for
every subscriber with unwanted pics of your pride and joy.

Think about it.  If some poor little provider, struggling to compete with
the big guys, has 10 list members, he has to hold 10 pictures of your car
in his limited storage drives until they're downloaded.  And what about
AOL.  They're going nuts trying to overcome the log-jam they caused when
they went to unlimited usage, and they have to hold hundreds of files of
your car.  No wonder there's a bandwidth crisis.

Maybe if you want to show off, you can get your own web page, most
providers won't charge you.  Then it's only there once until somebody wants
to download.

This will be my swan-song because I just unsubscribed.  I just don't have
time.

John Young
reospeeder@earthlink.net
70 Cutlass SX convertible
(If you'd like I have a few hundred pictures of my grandson.)

Mary <youngm@earthlink.net>

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 17:25:03 -0400
Subject: Re: 1970 W-30 Exhaust Manifolds?

In a message dated 97-04-03 14:30:43 EST, you write:

<<  have been searching for a set of exhaust manifolds for a 70 W-30.  I have
 found a set with the numbers 402294 & 402295 on them.  I looked for a
casting
 date and found 1294,  >>
These casting numbers are as following.  402294 with a letter Z is 69-74
442,W-30 and Hurst split divided manifold for the right side.  402295 with
the letter W is 69-72 442,W-30 and Hurst split divided manifold for the left
side.   412287 with the letter X is 73-74 spilt divided manifold for left
side for 442,W-30 and for 68 the manifolds were open  with the letter Y
(398706) for right side and X (389269) for the left side for all 455 cars.
even some Vista Cruiser Wagons and SX's came with these manifolds.



W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:50:20 -0400
Subject: Re: photos-photos-photos

John Young (reospeeder@earthlink.net) wrote:
>
> I don't know whether it's the Digest or the arrogance of PC/Windows
> users...

HEY!  You don't see us picking on Apple 'cause they can't make up
their minds if they're going to stay in business or not -- do you?

> And what about AOL.  They're going nuts trying to overcome the log-jam
> they caused when they went to unlimited usage, and they have to hold
> hundreds of files of your car.

If SOL can't stand the heat...

> (If you'd like I have a few hundred pictures of my grandson.)

How old is he?  Maybe my granddaughter would be interested.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 18:55:17 -0400
Subject: Re: 8.5" rear end identification

On Thu, 3 Apr 1997, Andy Geeting wrote:

> Hey everyone,
>
>    Well now I'm looking for an 8.5" rear end for my '87 Cutlass and wanted
> to know how to I.D. one. Does anybody know the codes for this rear end and
> where it is located? I know these rears came in the 442's and the GN's but I
> would like to know for sure what I am getting. Also, can someone tell me
> what to look for when I'm checking it out so that I get one that is in good
> shape? Thanks!


 Andy,
I looked up the codes for the 8.5" rear in '85 Chassis manual for
Cutlass, 88 and Cutlass Cruiser.

I hope this helps and I'm not sure if the codes change form year to year.

If the axle is on the car and it has one of those option code stickers in
the trunk the code is G87 for the 8.5" and G89 for the 7.5"

If you want to crawl underneath the car and look around on the axle
itself these are the codes for the 8.5" axles:

Cutlass-442  4 3/4" bolt pattern cast iron brake drums, code 8TF, Posi 8TR

88  4 3/4" bolt pattern, codes 8NX and 8NY, posi 8LG and 8LH

Cutlass Cruiser  5" bolt pattern 8YG, 8YC, 8YD, 8YE, posi 8YP, 8YG, 8YR,
and 8YS

The first codes represent the numerically lower ratios and increases as
you read to the right.

 Again I hope this helps and i hope it's not too confusing the way I wrote
it.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 18:55:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Olds road trip home

No, the new synthetic stuff stretches way easier, and has far less
applications.  (It does resist sunlight better, though).  It is also
harder to rip, and can't be 'torched' for maximum stick.  Although, don't
get me wrong, it's still good stuff (anybody see the commercial for
speed-zone or something like that where the offisner puuls over a
vintage-looking car, examines it, then pulls a cloth off the seat to find
duct tape, and proceeds to get quite mad at the owner?)

As far as OLDS and Duct Tape goes, I changed from a T350 to a T400 in my
cutlass, and for a temporary driveshaft, I stuck the rear piece off the
cutlass into the appropriatly cut 1969 98 driveshaft, 1/4 inch bigger.
What could I possibly use for a spacer to get the yoke in centered and
straight?  Not a real-machine shop spacer, that costs $, but, a well
positioned wrapping of duct-tape, a welder, and I had me a driveshaft
unti I got a real one made.


Though, I must admit, the thong bikini I saw made out of duct tape put my
dirveshaft to shame!


EA!


On Thu, 3 Apr 1997, David Brown wrote:

> Ha, ha! Arf, arf!! Another use for duct tape! Does the synthetic type work
> better?
>
> ------------
> Oh, nonsense. Look, forget the other items on the above list and just
> buy $67 worth of duct tape. (Try to buy it on sale for biggest quantity.)
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª592
********************************
