To:	"DDA.RFC-822=oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca/P=ABTLAB/A=ABTLAB/C=US" @ 
SSWGATE
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #545


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 3 March 1997        Volume 01 : Number 545

Re: Please stop sending all this E-Mail...
Re: Engine Inquiry
Re: camshaft 101
Re: Fusick
Re: Manual for 63 Olds
Re: 69 H/O a/cleaner question
Re: many thanks
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Re: Fusick
Re: turbos/RPM stress
Re: 307 again
Re: 307 again
Re: Fusick
Re: Engine Inquiry
Re: 307 again
Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels
Re: Engine Inquiry
Re: Engine Inquiry
Re: 64 Dynamic 88
Re: 307 again
Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels
Re: 307 again
67 Olds -- engine bay colors and what not
Re: Engine Inquiry
JWO & 442.com
Found in Hemmings
got my tach fixed & brake surprises
Re: Engine Inquiry
Re: turbos/RPM stre
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Re: Fusick
Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?
Re: 67 Olds -- engine bay colors and what not
Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels
Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels
[none]
Idle question
Re: Fusick
Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential
Re: 67 Olds -- engine bay colors and what not
REAR BUMPER TO 66 OLDS 98 CONVERTIBLE WANTED
Re: Idle question
Re: 66 Delta trunk script
Re: Parts Car Needs a Home
[none]
Re: Fusick
Re: Fusick
3/3 Olds Item For Sale
442 W-Dirty
RE: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie
Re: Bent Grill Piece
Re: 69 H/O a/cleaner question
Spring is near and Oldsmobiles are blooming
Help
Re: turbos/RPM stress
Re: 442 W-Dirty
Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential
Olds Dust-Of in MD/WashDC Area - May 4
Re: Where in the world is Joe Padavano?
RE:'86 442   TPS
Re: 442 W-Dirty
Re: turbos/RPM stress

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 16:06:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Please stop sending all this E-Mail...

ChrisFair@FairIsaac.com wrote:
> Send a message to the Greg
                    ^^^^^^^^

Gee... is that like "the Donald", a.k.a. Mr. Trump? :) I only wish...

> or the list with the word "unsubscribe" in the
> body of the message. That should put a stop to it. Or you could buy

Actually, not quite. The wording is right but the destination you gave is
wrong. It would be a big favor to me if everyone would read the welcome
message they got when they signed on, because it tells you that to leave
the list, you need to send this message to majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca and
not to the list itself. It sure would save me a lot of work if I didn't
have to manually unsubscribe people about 50% of the time.

The person in question has been removed from the list, BTW.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 15:30:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Inquiry

DanBSmith1@aol.com wrote:
>
> Today I found an engine that is supposed to be a 455/390 from a 68 Hurst
> Olds.  The motor is red, has 396021F on the front of the block,  has 68 on
> the back of the block(flywheel area), has C heads, but does not have the
> 2-digit code on the oil filler tube.  Is this the real thing?  It is
complete > in that it has the carb, alt, a/c comp, p/s pump and all brackets.
The guy > wants $ 1,100.00 for it.  What do you think? > > Dan


I have a 390 horse 455 with C heads I'll sell ya for 1,100 bucks. Just
kidding. The Hurst Olds engine must have "D" heads to be worth the money
he is asking. I do not think this would be a good purchase. Without the
correct heads you've got another Tornado/88/98/4-4-2/Cutlass engine that
is worth about 400.00 if it's a good running engine.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 15:36:46 -0400
Subject: Re: camshaft 101

prlmteed@idcnet.com wrote:
>
> Anyone here up for giving beginning camshaft lessons?  I thought I knew
> something about them but I'm finding I'm pretty dumb.  I'm not familiar with
the > term "lobe centers".  What does what? > > Pat

Simply put Lobe centers are the apex of the lift for the intake and
exhaust lobes. Lobe seperation is the number of degrees that seperates
the two lobe centers. Overlap is the number of degrees that the cam
holds both intake and exhaust open at the same moment. Cams are a very
simple concept but are extremely complicated in use.

Danny

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 16:50:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

Dan,
I don't understand about Fusick's not taking your credit card. I've called
them at least 100 times, and they take my credit card everytime.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 16:56:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Manual for 63 Olds

Jim and Teresa,
That was me. Please Email me at my address.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 16:59:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 H/O a/cleaner question

Mike,
I have been told that parts of that air cleaner are the same as used on some
Fords, but I don't know which ones. There, I've told you everything I know
about one except I can identify one and don't want to pay the asking price
for them.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 11:15:00 -0400
Subject: Re: many thanks

James Thingwold wrote:
>
> As the guy who sold me my Delta says - "wait 5 years and there will be such
> poor pickings amongst all the popular cars, people will  start realizing
> there were other models too" - I am sure that 4 door cars will come into
> popularity, well maybe last, but they will eventually.  Although I'm a 2
> door fan myself, I've seen some nice 4 door Cutlass' at shows that did
> surprisingly good (Olds shows of course).
>
> Long live the big 'uns!
>
> Lisa Madsen

Lisa,

If the judging is done properly, the model, color, number of doors, nor
any other characteristic of the car as build makes any difference.  The
placing of the car comes from the ability of the owner to get the car
back into the condition it was as it was built.  The more successful
that owner is in his quest for restoration, the more success that should
be met on the show field.

When judging modified cars, quality, engineering, & tasteful design &
integration of components are the goals.  The number of doors isn't a
factor here either.

I love sporty cars very much.  My '62 Jetfire is more flashy than a
4-door.  To the credit of the judging in my area, my toughest opponent
is usually one fine '59 Studebaker Lark sedan.  I am always thrilled if
I can beat that car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 11:32:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I've been contemplating the installation of power windows in my '72 C/S
> convertible for a number of years.  I've found a complete '71 C/S hardtop in
> a salvage yard nearby.  My plans are to purchase the car for no more than
> $250, then strip all the power window parts this spring and summer, sell the
> car back to the yard owner for probably $50 (car will never leave the yard),
> and tear out the interior of the convertible and install the assemblies over
> the winter.  The only thing I am afraid of is having the holes cut in the
> door jambs and the doors.  I want it to look totally factory, can't do it
> myself, and can't find anyone interested in cutting up my convertible.
>
> I think someone on this list told me that the non-power window and power
> window regulators are different, but the convertible and hardtop regulators
> are the same for either kind of setup, so I should be able to replace the
> standard conv. regulators with the power coupe regulators with little
> problem.  I am anticipating this to be very labor intensive and I'm sure it
> won't be a weekend job.  With patience it shoudn't be too difficult.  Window
> switches should mount in the old crank holes, and look like they'll be just
> big enought that you won't see the whole anymore.  Won't have any hold
> problems when I decided to replace the interior panels down the road.
>
>
> Paul

Paul,

The power window regulators & slides use some holes in the door that
weren't used by the crank windows although the holes are there for
both.  I would recommend doing what is done by instructors in auto shop
classes for rebuilding brakes - have a sample of what you are to achieve
near you to compare as you go.  That can be done by purchasing the doors
w/all the parts installed & then just transfer them.  The rear quarters
can be done by using a carefully drawn template so as to know which
holes are used & noting what part fits in each.

The holes in the door panels are smaller on the crank cars than on power
ones.  A little enlarging makes it work.  A pattern is made from the
stamped metal framework that the switches snap into.

A hole saw is required at both the door & the A-post.  There is a diple
in the metal of both for your center drill.  Just drill both to the size
of your door sample.  Of course, the doors must be removed to get this
job done.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 18:14:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

At 04:50 PM 3/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Dan,
>I don't understand about Fusick's not taking your credit card. I've called
them
>at least 100 times, and they take my credit card everytime.

Interesting.  It says right in the front of their catalog (at least the
most recent one I have) that they want mail orders.  I've also asked them
if they would take my order over the phone, and they've always said that
they want me to fill out a form and mail it in.  I'll try the phone again
next time.



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 18:19:56 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stress

> Turbochargers do use the gas flowing through them to spin their turbines,
> but it is the "heat" in these gases that operate the turbines.  The energy
> of combustion contained in these gases is what is transferred to the
> turbine blades, making them turn.  A way to think of "heat" is to consider
> it a TRANSFER of kinetic energy(KE), rather than as the energy itself.
> The temperature of the exhaust gases is very high, meaning that the gases
> contain a lot of kinetic energy.

*snip*

At the risk of beating a horse that my very well be dead, I'll
throw in a couple cents worth here--

Your point about the heat transfer and such is well taken, but I
would still say that a turbo would still operate with a room temperature
exhaust charge.  It would'nt be as efficient, and would not make as much
power for the reasons you stated above involving the heat, but it would
still work.  An engine is in many respects just a large air pump, and if
you stick a turbine on the end of the exhaust, it would have no choice but
to turn.  The system is sealed, and when the air is forced through the
turbine, it will turn (it might not be that fast, and boost might be
minimal, but it will turn).  If you took two motors and joined them at the
flywheel, one set up to run and the other with a dead ignition/fuel
system, at speed, the dead engine would be moving a considerable ammount
of air through it (just how much would of course be determined by
displacemet). Add a turbo, and it would spin.  As far as I know, the only
time full exhaust flow does not go through a turbo is when a wastegate is
used to limit boost.  Anyway, thats just my 2 cents worth.

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 18:23:35 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 again

> Well guys, I bought myself a new compression tester and checked out the 307.
On > a cold engine I got: 1-155, 3-150 5-150, 7-145 2-155, 4-145, 6-148,
8-148 > sounds good huh?  I rechecked it warm and saw the numbers drop off
5-20 ª.  I > added some oil to the worst two and saw the compression go up 35
and 40 ª. > When I started it up, I remembered what oil smoke looked like! >
 > I'm not used to seeing an oil burner with this much compression but the
35-40ª > difference sounds like rings yes?

Yup, that definetly sounds like rings.  Although it seems kind of
strange that you would get -lower- readings on a warm engine.  My manuals
always say to do a compression test on a warm engine because cold reading
are not as accurate.  I always assumed that they would be lower due to the
fact that as an engine warms up, everything expands sealing it better,
giving a higher reading.  Any ideas?

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 13:59:35 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 again

> strange that you would get -lower- readings on a warm engine.  My manuals
> always say to do a compression test on a warm engine because cold reading
> are not as accurate.  I always assumed that they would be lower due to the
> fact that as an engine warms up, everything expands sealing it better,
> giving a higher reading.  Any ideas?

Perhaps on an engine with worn rings or out of round cylinder bores,
cooler, more viscous oil provides better sealing.  Also, any improvement
in sealing on a warm engine would be dependent on the relative thermal
coefficients of expansion for the piston/rings relative to the iron block.
Are aluminum alloy pistons more temperature sensitive than cast iron?
How about forged pistons?

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: OldsDr@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 19:24:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

Fusick owns and reproduces the majority of all reproduction olds parts sold
in the world.

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 19:32:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Inquiry

At 03:30 PM 3/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>DanBSmith1@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Today I found an engine that is supposed to be a 455/390 from a 68 Hurst
>> Olds.  The motor is red, has 396021F on the front of the block,  has 68 on
>> the back of the block(flywheel area), has C heads, but does not have the
>> 2-digit code on the oil filler tube.  Is this the real thing?  It is
complete >> in that it has the carb, alt, a/c comp, p/s pump and all brackets.
The guy >> wants $ 1,100.00 for it.  What do you think? >> >> Dan > > >I have
a 390 horse 455 with C heads I'll sell ya for 1,100 bucks. Just >kidding. The
Hurst Olds engine must have "D" heads to be worth the money >he is asking. I
do not think this would be a good purchase. Without the >correct heads you've
got another Tornado/88/98/4-4-2/Cutlass engine that >is worth about 400.00 if
it's a good running engine. > >Danny


To All

        Just to let all of you know the A/C cars had C heads on them and not
D's. The cam was also less radical than the non-air cars.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442>

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 19:34:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 again

- ----------
> From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 307 again
> Date: Sunday, March 02, 1997 11:59 AM
>
> .
> Are aluminum alloy pistons more temperature sensitive than cast iron?
> How about forged pistons?
Aluminum expands at around twice the rate cast iron does. Cast pistons
have a steel strut cast into them to keep them from contracting when they
cool off. .
Forged pistons do not have this and so they contract more than cast ones
do.
This is why forged are run looser than cast.  They both have about the same
clearance when hot. Sometimes you can hear forged pistons rattle a little
when they are cold. Of course when the pistons are fitted to the block they
are cold and different alloys and designs expand at different rates so the
engine builder has to go by the piston makers minimun clearance. Most high
performance engine builders add a thousanth or two for safetys sake.
The oil burning 307 probably has better ring seal when it is hot because
the pistons fit a little closer and maybe the cylinders are  a little
rounder when its hot    Also wouldnt the air in the cylinders expand some
from the heat it absorbes makeing the gague read higher? I don't know if
that would make any measurable difference its just a guess.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 19:45:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

On Sun, 2 Mar 1997, Kevin Wong wrote:
> I think these were optional from '88-'90.  They appear to be a very rare
> piece indeed!  That Custom Cruiser should have had a wide brushed
> stainless steel moulding between the back door and rear side glass, a
> centre high-mounted stoplamp, and rear seat shoulder belts.  If it
> also had the front door-mounted shoulder belts, it would be a 1990.

It did indeed have the brushed stainless molding and the high-mount stop
lamp, didn't notice the belts. Question: if it was an '89 or a '90, what
engine would it have? I assume a Ch*vy since I hear the 307 didn't make
it past '88, or am I wrong in that?

The more I think about this car, the more I hope the owner calls. I've
seldom seen a nicer example around here.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: DanBSmith1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 19:52:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Inquiry

So do you think it is from a 68 Hurst or just another 455?  Is there much
difference in it and the other 455's of 68-70?

------------------------------

From: OldsDr@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 20:04:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Inquiry

I would tend to doubt that the differences would be worth that much more
money.  You could probably get another 455 for alot cheaper and with minor
work have it perform better.

------------------------------

From: Jonah Kadish <kadijon@charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 20:08:13 -0400
Subject: Re: 64 Dynamic 88

Hi thanks for replying I have a 4 door 64 dynamic 88 sedan I only need to
peices of chrome trime, The first being the passenger rear quarter panel
and the second being the driverside door.
Thanks,
Jonah

On Sat, 1 Mar 1997 ANTIQOLDS@aol.com wrote:

> Jonah
>   I saw a message that you are looking for chrome trim for a 64 Dynamic 88
> I deal in Antique and Classic  Oldsmobile Parts
>   I am sure I will be able help you get what you need new and or used.
Please > advise exactly what car you have and what you need and I will let you
what I > have and the prices > > Everett Horton  1-401-435-7139 > > > E & G
Automotive > PO Box 16095 > 9 Newman Ave > Rumford, R.I. 02916 > > Other
inquires welcome > > > You have not changed your default password.  Please
login to http://netaddress.usa.net/ to start using NetAddress >

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 15:27:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 again

  <snip>
> The oil burning 307 probably has better ring seal when it is hot because
> the pistons fit a little closer and maybe the cylinders are  a little
> rounder when its hot    Also wouldnt the air in the cylinders expand some
> from the heat it absorbes makeing the gague read higher? I don't know if
> that would make any measurable difference its just a guess.

Thanks for the piston explanation.  It was reported that this particular
307 saw lower compression numbers once the engine had warmed up: as
Scott noted, any ideas?  Is it possible for cylinder bores to be true
when cold, then go out of round when hot?

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 15:38:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

> It did indeed have the brushed stainless molding and the high-mount stop
> lamp, didn't notice the belts. Question: if it was an '89 or a '90, what
> engine would it have? I assume a Ch*vy since I hear the 307 didn't make
> it past '88, or am I wrong in that?

1990 was the last year for the Olds smallblock.  I think the only years
a full-size Olds (aside from those Delta 88's in early '77) came with a
Ch*v engine was '91 and '92.  The 307's engine control system appears to
have been upgraded starting in 1988, when GM added ESC (electronic spark
control), which uses a KS (knock sensor) to adjust spark timing.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 20:55:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 again

>
> Thanks for the piston explanation.  It was reported that this particular
> 307 saw lower compression numbers once the engine had warmed up: as
> Scott noted, any ideas?  Is it possible for cylinder bores to be true
> when cold, then go out of round when hot?
>
I guess I read it wrong I thought he said it was higher when hot. I guess
they could get out of round when hot especilly with the later thin wall
engines. The oil viscosity thing someone  mentioned might be the answer
too. This thread is interesting to me and I am anxous to know what he finds
when he gets the engine apart. Another thought I just had was that I have
always heard that most ring and cylinder wear occurs when the engine is
cold and the fuel mixture is richer. Maybe that has something to do with
it. Any one else have any ideas?

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 21:05:48 -0400
Subject: 67 Olds -- engine bay colors and what not

   I am getting closer and closer to installing my 455 -- but now i am
contemplating pulling the front clip off of the car and detailing the engine
bay, frame, and suspension componants, and ive got a few questions for
anybody out there who would be more knowledgeable than i in this subject.
   1.  I have noticed that my fire wall is painted a flat or satin finish
charcoal grey, and
        that the fenderwells are painted and extremely fine metalflake gun
metal grey.
        Are these the normal factory colors for this car?
   2.  Is the steering box painted a different color than the other steering
        componants?
   3.   Last of all,  i have noticed that some off the bolt holes that hold
the lower part
         of the fenders just behind the wheels have rusted to a point that
the bolts no
         longer work or stay in the holes -- Would a heli coil thread insert
work ok in
         this area?

 This car really isn't worth spending thousands of hours doing a complete
restoration on but it is in good enough condition to build to hot rod
condition of about the period of 1973 or so --- you know mild modifications
such as headders -- Indy five slot rims -- and one of those dune buggy
steering wheels  along with a hurst floor shifter and matching guages.
  I am planning on painting the car black or kidney bean red -- and the
interior will be parchment colored  and use all factory patterns -- the dash
will be black and the upper parts of the doors and painted trim will be
painted to match the body color.
  Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated --- I was only 10
years old in 76, so i need a little bit more info on what was done whith cars
in the early '70's

    thanks.

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 20:17:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Inquiry

>
> To All
>
>         Just to let all of you know the A/C cars had C heads on them and not
> D's. The cam was also less radical than the non-air cars.
>
> Jim Chermack
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32
> 72 442>

If indeed that is true, still 1,100 bucks for a 390 horse 455 is WAY OUT
OF LINE. Even if it did come out of a real H/O the only thing different
would be the heads, cam and carb. A set of C heads freshly built
shouldn't be more than 450 dollars. A set of D cores can be as high as
800.00 bucks. A 390 horse cam $110.00. This is not a Deal.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@CompuServe.COM>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 21:11:41 -0400
Subject: JWO & 442.com

All,
Just blowing my own horn.
Check out the March Journey with Olds, I'm the author of the CCR Fall Show
article "Spectacular for the 8th Time".
Also check out Bryceman's Holy Web Site of Worship to all that is Oldsmobile
"www.442.com" for the lastest OCA Chapter listing & event calendar
Later

 ---   Brad Nicholson     OCAª18984
| | |  1987 442 W-42 (Stripped naked of all it' s paint)
| | |  1994 Eighty Eight LSS (Daily driver)
|/|\|  (H) 76062.3042@compuserve.com
| | |  (W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
 ---   Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 21:13:56 -0400
Subject: Found in Hemmings

Hey Folks

Found this in Hemmings whilst browsing the Novas and Chevelles:

Collectors Connection, Super Sports and Collectibles:

...80 Olds 4-4-2 coupe, W-30 350 V8, air, full power, $5995

Contact: Gary Lisk, Bob McDorman Classics, 614-837-3421, Canal Winshester, OH

This one may have shown up on the list before, there have been a few
recently, but I thought maybe someone might be interested and I figured not
many of you would be browsing the Chevy pages.

Paul

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 22:04:27 -0400
Subject: got my tach fixed & brake surprises

Well since the weather was nice here friday I decided to change the tach in
my 80 442. Normally at idle It reads 5,500 to 6,000 rpm and totally buries
the needle at the slightest acceleration. I took the old one out, everything
was hooked up properly. I replaced it with one from a 1983 Cutlass Calais.
Suprisingly this tach reads dead on! This tach came out of a junkyard car
with t-tops and the tops were off the car for a full year, so there was
rain, snow, you name it that came into contact with the dash. So I was
excited to go and drive it now and I decided to go get the oil changed at
the local Castrol/GTX oil changer. Good thing I did as they checked my brake
fluid and I had none in there:( I did last week when I checked it. Oh well
looks like a new master cylinder is in order for the car.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  f-list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2  W-30..http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25..currently in pieces.....

------------------------------

From: Terrance Bradley <DocOlds@Magmacom.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 01:14:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Inquiry

theogns wrote:
>
> DanBSmith1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Today I found an engine that is supposed to be a 455/390 from a 68 Hurst
> > Olds.  The motor is red, has 396021F on the front of the block,  has 68 on


 It may be a Hurst Olds engine as the air conditioned cars used C heads
and the non air used D heads. Check the carb and distributor number with
the Hurst Olds guys, is the trans available as it would be coded HO and
you could check the serial ª against the blocks.

 Docolds

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 22:18:33 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stre

Scott,

Concerning the matter of room temperature gases operating the
turbocharger, I think you have a good point.  I don't know how well the
turbo would run but the cooler gases just might create some boost.
However, the only way the cool gases would work is if they are pushed
through the exhaust system by a pressure difference.  Obviously, that is
what's happening in an engine's running cycle.  However, that pressure is
a direct result of the high temperatures in the cylinder. It's the high
energy levels of the gas that creates the high pressures, again because
the gas particles are bouncing against the cylinder walls and exhaust
pipes with a lot of energy, creating the high pressure.  And that brings
us back to the issue of heat transfer.  I still believe it is the gas
particle momentum transfer that
is completely responsible for the operation of the turbine.  Just a couple
more two bits on my part. :)


              Jim

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 22:21:30 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

Ray Moriarty wrote:
>
> >Yes, power windows were an available factory option on a 1968 442
> >convertible.  There would have still been hand cranks for the
> >two vent windows, but not for the four primary side windows.  The
> >four primary windows were lowered and raised only by operating
> >electrical switches.
> >
>
> Thats what I was afraid of. I have a photo packet of a car I am evaluating
> for a long distance purchase, and the interior shots show an electrical
> switch above the primary and in front of the vent window crank. The switch
> looks like a power window/door lock control: a double throw momentary switch
> with a bezel that matches the interior. Could it be power door locks? The
> switches are only in the front.

Another possibility is power vent windows.  They were available in some
of the full size oldsmobiles in 1968 and could have been added to that
car.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:11:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

In a message dated 97-03-02 17:16:39 EST, you write:

> Interesting.  It says right in the front of their catalog (at least the
>  most recent one I have) that they want mail orders.  I've also asked them
>  if they would take my order over the phone, and they've always said that
>  they want me to fill out a form and mail it in.  I'll try the phone again
>  next time.

You tell them that we said they did it for us!  I know of at least one time
when they took my credit card, that was when I ordered the 1/4 panel for my
convertible.  I think there were other times, too.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:11:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Conv. Power Windows?

In a message dated 97-03-02 16:44:21 EST, you write:

> A hole saw is required at both the door & the A-post.  There is a diple
>  in the metal of both for your center drill.  Just drill both to the size
>  of your door sample.  Of course, the doors must be removed to get this
>  job done.

Yuk!  Take the doors off?  I didn't really want to get into that...

But you guys are gettin' me excited to do this swap.  And now Kurt wants the
rear defog from the parts car, so I guess I'm goin' to the bone yard this
coming weekend to see what's up with this parts car.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:11:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Olds -- engine bay colors and what not

In a message dated 97-03-02 20:17:06 EST, you write:

>  1.  I have noticed that my fire wall is painted a flat or satin finish
>  charcoal grey,

On my '67 Ninety Eight I'm pretty sure the firewall in a flat finish.

>  and that the fenderwells are painted and extremely fine metalflake gun
>  metal grey.

But I don't think mine are metalflake.  I thought they were like a semi-gloss
gray.  Can't tell you about the steering box without seeing mine. The car's
15 miles away or I'd go look for you.  Sorry.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:11:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

In a message dated 97-03-02 12:46:09 EST, you write:

> Today I saw a Custom
>  Cruiser wagon with a set of Olds factory alloy wheels -- the same wheels
>  used on Buicks of the early 80's, alloys with a series of "ribs"
>  radiating out from the center at different heights. These had centers
>  with large Rocket logos on them.

That would be a '90.  These were a new wheel for Olds in '90 and it was the
only year they were available from the factory.  '91 was the new Caprice body
with a different wheel.  I always thought those '90 wheels were cool too.

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:11:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Full-Size RWD Alloy Wheels

In a message dated 97-03-02 18:52:22 EST, you write:

> It did indeed have the brushed stainless molding and the high-mount stop
>  lamp, didn't notice the belts. Question: if it was an '89 or a '90, what
>  engine would it have? I assume a Ch*vy since I hear the 307 didn't make
>  it past '88, or am I wrong in that?

Since I'm assuming by the wheels that this one's a '90, it would have come
standard with the LV2 5.0 liter, 4bbl V8 (307), according to the sales
manual.  There was no engine option.

>  The more I think about this car, the more I hope the owner calls. I've
>  seldom seen a nicer example around here.

I hope he calls you, too.  But from the horror stories you've told us in the
past,  he probably knows what he's got and wants to hang onto it.

Paul
fingers crossed

------------------------------

From: "Bud & Sandy Walls" <jfreak@mail.bright.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 1997 22:12:43 -0400
Subject: [none]

Cancel my subsriptoin please

------------------------------

From: James Pindar <jp@webspan.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:15:13 -0400
Subject: Idle question

Greetings

I have a 1992 Achieva SCX with a W41 Quad Four and 5 speed. It races in
neutral whenever it rolls. Also races between shifts. The normal idle is
at about 1200 RPM. Dealers and the manufacturer have been no help. Does
anyone have any ideas? New computer? IAC? Stick of dynamite?

Thanks

Jim

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:33:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

At 12:42 PM 3/2/97 -0500, you wrote:
>disappointed.  My only gripe with them, and perhaps this does make them a
>bit "obsolete," is that they do not take credit card orders over the phone.

Hmmm, I've always ordered by credit card via phone orders. OTOH, there is a
shop out there that only takes mail-ins, but it isn't Fusicks. Maybe you're
thinking of them? Or do you have an older catalog?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:33:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential

At 10:30 PM 3/1/97 -0500, you wrote:
>   Oldsmobilers:
[snip of questions that others answered already...]
>4) I finally moved the power steering support (changing belts) and saw 'A' on
>the head. I don't need the full rundown, that happens too often here. Would
>someone briefly mention the charateristics of 'A' heads and possibility of
>grinding/porting for more efficiency, especially any disadvantages

Hmmm, are you *sure* that you have a 330ci motor? Measure the top of the
intake manifold; if it's 12" wide, then you do have a small-block that
someone swapped big-block heads onto (and which you should replace with
decent small-block heads, if you want anything resembling a decent
compression ratio).

OTOH, if you measure the top of the intake, and come back with a measurement
of 14" wide, then you're one lucky dog today, fido, because you've likely
got yourself a 425ci motor in there!

Let us know the results!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 00:25:13 -0400
Subject: Re: 67 Olds -- engine bay colors and what not

At 09:05 PM 3/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>   I am getting closer and closer to installing my 455 -- but now i am
>contemplating pulling the front clip off of the car and detailing the engine
>bay, frame, and suspension componants, and ive got a few questions for
>anybody out there who would be more knowledgeable than i in this subject.
>   1.  I have noticed that my fire wall is painted a flat or satin finish
>charcoal grey, and
****  Firewall should be semi-gloss black (Krylon cans work well)

>        that the fenderwells are painted and extremely fine metalflake gun
>metal grey.
****  Fenderwells should be the same as the firewall.

>        Are these the normal factory colors for this car?
****  NO!

>   2.  Is the steering box painted a different color than the other steering
>        componants?
****  Steering box should be natural cast iron with an aluminum cover. (Cast
color paint works well here.)

>   3.   Last of all,  i have noticed that some off the bolt holes that hold
>the lower part
>         of the fenders just behind the wheels have rusted to a point that
>the bolts no
>         longer work or stay in the holes -- Would a heli coil thread insert
>work ok in
>         this area?
****  That sounds like a good possibility. Once done you should pull the
bottom fender bolts once a year and clean all the junk out of them.
(especially if it is driven regularly)

> This car really isn't worth spending thousands of hours doing a complete
>restoration on but it is in good enough condition to build to hot rod
>condition of about the period of 1973 or so --- you know mild modifications
>such as headders -- Indy five slot rims -- and one of those dune buggy
>steering wheels  along with a hurst floor shifter and matching guages.
>  I am planning on painting the car black or kidney bean red -- and the
>interior will be parchment colored  and use all factory patterns -- the dash
>will be black and the upper parts of the doors and painted trim will be
>painted to match the body color.
>  Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated --- I was only 10
>years old in 76, so i need a little bit more info on what was done whith cars
>in the early '70's
>
>    thanks.
>

------------------------------

From: Rennie Pelkie <mcon@iea.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 22:44:11 -0400
Subject: REAR BUMPER TO 66 OLDS 98 CONVERTIBLE WANTED

I AM LOOKING FOR A REAR BUMPER FOR MY 66 OLDS 98 CONVERTIBLE.  THE OLD =
BUMPER MAY BE REPAIRABLE BUT HAS SUBSTANCIAL RUST.  THE CAR IS IN VERY =
GOOD CONDITION , BUT NOT SHOW QUALITY.

Rennie Pelkie
The Music Connection
mcon@iea.com
http://www.themusicconnection.com
888-289-6266
888-buy-mcon

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 00:35:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Idle question

At 02:15 AM 3/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings
>
>I have a 1992 Achieva SCX with a W41 Quad Four and 5 speed. It races in
>neutral whenever it rolls. Also races between shifts. The normal idle is
>at about 1200 RPM. Dealers and the manufacturer have been no help. Does
>anyone have any ideas? New computer? IAC? Stick of dynamite?
>
>Thanks
>
>Jim


Jim

        Check your idle speed sensor. It should be located on or near the
intake plenum. You can also do your own computer check simply by the
following. Take a paper clip and bend it into a U shaped piece. Then go
under the drivers side dash assm and locate what looks like a 24 pin
computer connection with nothing attached to it. Stick the paper clip in the
A and B pins and turn the ignition to the on position. Don't start it. you
will see your check engine light start to flash. If everything is cool with
the computer and all the sensors it will flash a code 12. This is normal. It
is telling you the computer is in the diognostics mode. It should flash the
first number of the stored code in one second intervals. The second number
will flash in 1/2 second intervals. It should do this three times. So if
everything is good you should see one long flash followed by two short ones.
If this is the only thing in the RAM of the computer it's telling you it
sees nothing wrong. If this happens your in for some long troubleshooting.
Hope this helps you.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:03:05 -0400
Subject: Re: 66 Delta trunk script

My '67 Delta & '67 Cutlass both had/have emblems on the right side of the
trunk, I'd imagine your correct in the dealer theory.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '67 Delta 88 , '72 Vista Cruiser , '72 Vista Cruiser
project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:30:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts Car Needs a Home

I got this message on my e-mail.  The car in question here is a '63 Dynamic
Station Wagon.  I've tried to talk the guy into salvaging what is left but
havent heard back yet.

Anyway, I promised I'd forward this story to the list :

What I would like to do is provide a decent burial for my car, by allowing
all
of her parts to go to people who care for/want them.  I'm keeping the
engine and
trans.(less than 5k on a never-been-bored-out 455!), but all the rest is
for the
taking.
I don't want to assume that you have any more free time than I have, but I
figured you would be the best person to spread the news.  I'm in
California(Bay
Area), my e-mail is: Chris_perumean@ccm.sc.intel.com, and I would truly
appreciate it if you could help me spread the word.  Please don't hesitate to
e-mail me at any time with any questions, comments, or anything else.

Thanks for your time.

Chris Perumean
P.S.  Excellent WebSite!!!

------------------------------

From: "Bud & Sandy Walls" <jfreak@mail.bright.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 08:47:06 -0400
Subject: [none]

Please take me off your e-mail list immediatley. of subscribe oldsmobile
                            Thankyou

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 09:04:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

At 11:33 PM 3/2/97 -0400, you wrote:

>Hmmm, I've always ordered by credit card via phone orders. OTOH, there is a
>shop out there that only takes mail-ins, but it isn't Fusicks. Maybe you're
>thinking of them? Or do you have an older catalog?

I don't have it in front of me.  I'll check again and see what it says.



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 09:04:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusick

At 11:11 PM 3/2/97 -0400, you wrote:

>You tell them that we said they did it for us!  I know of at least one time
>when they took my credit card, that was when I ordered the 1/4 panel for my
>convertible.  I think there were other times, too.

Will do!



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: "Thomas Stoner" <tgstoner@mailgw2.pmr.med.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 10:06:26 -0400
Subject: 3/3 Olds Item For Sale

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to
sell:

1984 Hurst/Olds Sales Brochure - 4 full color pages with pictures
and specifications of the car, which opens into a 17 x 22 inch
side-view poster of the car on the reverse side.  Mint original
condition.  $15.00, including Priority Mail to addresses in the
United States. (3/3/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to
purchase this item or if you would like additional information about
it.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, MI                     |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Brad Otto <BradOtto@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 10:16:43 -0400
Subject: 442 W-Dirty

I found a '70 442 "W-30" for sale in Bryceman's Olds Page  "car's for sale"
section.   I contacted the owner and he said he had the car since 1977. He
said it  was a factory W-30 and he had the build sheet.  He also said that
it had the original F heads, Carb and  Intake.

Yesterday I took the two hour drive to Milpitas see the car.  First thing I
asked was to see the build sheet.  He said he couldn't find it.  Strange for
a guy with such a neatly organized garage and yard.

Next, I zeroed in on the "W" goodies.
1)  Fender wells.  Oooooops, Black.  He said the original owner must have
changed them.  (hmmmm.  20 years ago ?)
2) Heads.  Yep those say "F".  But wait, thats awfully heavy paint in the
area of the F.   I check the casting part number and it says 403686.  Hey,
that's the casting number for an "E" head.  How much time did it take to
grind that "E" onto an "F" ?  Probably less than the four hours I spent on
the road to see the car.
3) Intake.  Says Olds W-455.  I say "It should say Oldsmobile W-455."  He
says "Really ?"
4) Not an "OW" transmission.
5) '71 3.08 rear end.

I have heard of such horror stories.  Now I know they are not just stories.

Brad Otto

------------------------------

From: Frank Boerger <FBoerger@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 10:24:29 -0400
Subject: RE: High RPM Stress con'd: Turbo Backpressure: Scottie

On 2/28, The Wiz wrote:


>let us put a heat exchanger between the exhaust valve and the turbo, a
>very
>efficient one that will bring the exhaust temperature down to the ambient.
>In doing this, will the turbo now fail to work.  Isn't the exhaust volume
>still considerable?  Even though at a lower temperature.

See, if you remove all of the heat that was added by the ignition of the
air/fuel event, then the ambient air that is left is at the same pressure
that it was when it entered the CC.  That's why they say the "heat" makes
the turbine turn.  Flow spins it, but since the flow is created by the now
heated above ambient air (and some left over hydrocarbons and CO) there
would be no flow with out the heat.

Frank Boerger//Turbine Engine Components Textron//Thomasville, GA

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:02:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Bent Grill Piece

ANTIQOLDS@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi 67 cutlass owner
>   as for the bumber & parts for your Cutlass call Bill at Originality Plus
in > Rancho Cucamonga Ca. He is about 80 miles east of Los Angeles >
1-909-945-5466 > He specilizes in Olds bumbers > > Tell him Everett from
Rhode Island referred you via internet, he is very good

Bill has got stuff to envy over, however, his prices are most times too
high.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Jon442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:11:19 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 H/O a/cleaner question

<< Does anyone know if it's true that some of the ram air parts on '69 H/Os
 are the same parts used on the CobraJet motors?
  >>
Yes, the entire ram air assembly was basically a Ford part, since Olds didn't
have time to tool up their own. And tooling up their own would have been
foolish, with a production run of only 906 cars.

Jon Wessel
Director
Hurst/Olds Club of America

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.COM>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:02:18 -0400
Subject: Spring is near and Oldsmobiles are blooming

This past weekend I spotted a 61(?) Olds 4dr hauling a large piece of
furniture in it's trunk.  The car looked original, probably belonged to
someones grandmother at some time.  I then spotted a mystery Olds
setting at the local Wal-Mart.  It was a 70-72 A-body 2dr sedan.  It had
a 70 4-4-2 rear bumper and a 71 or 72 hood, grille and bumper.  The hood
had the fake vents on each side and the grilles set out at the front of
the opening as opposed to being recessed.  I am guessing the car was a
70, it also had the chrome mouldings on the leading edge of the front
fenders also with the coresponding hood moulding painted.  The car was
very confused.  The VIN tag on the dash was too cruddy to read.  The
interior had been changed to a late model type of cloth, so I could not
even look at the seats or door panels for a clue.  The poor thing was
also painted (recently) purple and all emblems were removed.  It was a
stick, which was nice to see.  I thought the last year for post cars was
1970.  Does anyone of you know what year the 2dr sedan was last built?

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Bruce Woods <executivesearch@mymail.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:29:05 -0400
Subject: Help

I am getting all your email, 100's of messages. Please
contact me immediately at 972-326-5252, Bruce Woods. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: Daniel Houlton <tc75918@hpr169.mdhc.mdc.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:13:43 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stress

James William Townsend wrote:
>
>
> On another related topic, why is an intake manifold-mounted blower
> called a "supercharger", and a gas driven turbine called a "turbocharger",
> since they both "supercharge" the incoming air? By supercharging I mean
> they both create a higher-than-normal intake pressure condition for the
> engine.  Couldn't they both be accurately called superchargers?  Or are
> they labelled differently just to distinguish between a gas driven-charger
> and a belt-driven charger?
>

Yes, they are both superchargers.  The turbochargers were originally (and
more correctly) called turbo-superchargers.  Shortened to turbocharger
over the years.


- --Dan

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:36:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 442 W-Dirty

***********************************************************
* Bryce,                                                  *
* Maybe this ad should be pulled (or better yet amended). *
*                                                         *
***********************************************************

Brad Otto wrote:
>
> I found a '70 442 "W-30" for sale in Bryceman's Olds Page  "car's for sale"
> section.   I contacted the owner and he said he had the car since 1977. He
> said it  was a factory W-30 and he had the build sheet.  He also said that
> it had the original F heads, Carb and  Intake.
>
> Yesterday I took the two hour drive to Milpitas see the car.  First thing I
> asked was to see the build sheet.  He said he couldn't find it.  Strange for
> a guy with such a neatly organized garage and yard.
>
> Next, I zeroed in on the "W" goodies.
> 1)  Fender wells.  Oooooops, Black.  He said the original owner must have
> changed them.  (hmmmm.  20 years ago ?)
> 2) Heads.  Yep those say "F".  But wait, thats awfully heavy paint in the
> area of the F.   I check the casting part number and it says 403686.  Hey,
> that's the casting number for an "E" head.  How much time did it take to
> grind that "E" onto an "F" ?  Probably less than the four hours I spent on
> the road to see the car.
> 3) Intake.  Says Olds W-455.  I say "It should say Oldsmobile W-455."  He
> says "Really ?"
> 4) Not an "OW" transmission.
> 5) '71 3.08 rear end.
>
> I have heard of such horror stories.  Now I know they are not just stories.
>
> Brad Otto

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:31:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Pseudo-spring, oil filter part ª's, and rear differential

>>For the benefit of those not in the same weather pattern as the greater
>>Chicago area, today was nice!
[...]
>> A day spent with the Oldsmobile is a very good day.

I'm finding that the _first_ nice days of the year are usually spent
helping out _other_ folks, since I take better care of my cars while
theirs are falling apart. Therefore the urgent work needs to be done
on their cars, not mine.  :-)  <== Extremely smug icon here.

>***** Normally I try to use oil filters of the same manufacturer that it
>came with. The specified AC filter is either PF24 or PF30 They are basically
>the same filter but the PF30 is the older part number.

Rumor had it that the PF24 was basically a PF30 with a bypass valve. Maybe
someone would like to hack apart a couple of old ones and verify that...

>>3) My wipers work, but the washer fluid pump is kaput, I can hear it working
>>(fluid pump noises) but nothing ever comes out. What should I look for? Is
>>this a system that needs to be primed?

Priming it may get you a few squirts until the next time it sits idle for
too long. The reciprocating-pump design uses three little disc-shaped
flapper valves at the top of the cylinder (1 intake, 2 "exhaust") that
eventually lose their flexibility, but which you can easily replace with
a rebuild kit made by Anco: unscrew the four screws holding the top of
the cylinder in place, try not to drop the O-ring seals, replace with
the new parts out of the rebuild kit. In some cases the piston itself
is leaking to the point where it can't prime the pump, and a new pump is
required. Again, Anco sells these new or you can mess around with an old
one from the junkyard. It's not high-tech...

One more-reliable alternative if you're not concerned about originality
is an electric-pump conversion. Basically it's a little electric pump
that mounts in-line in the washer supply hose and literally pushes the
fluid right through the existing pump. It's powered from the old washer
pump electric circuit so that it operates for as long as you hold down
the washer button on the dash (you use the original dash control, IOW).
I suppose you can hide the pump if you want; it's fairly small.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: BRAD.NICHOLSON@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:32:17 -0400
Subject: Olds Dust-Of in MD/WashDC Area - May 4

FYI - Baltimore & Washington, D.C. Areas
I'm submitting this for a friend @ Congressional Olds

May 4, 1997.  CELEBRATE OLDSMOBILES 100TH BIRTHDAY AT CONGRESSIONAL
OLDSMOBILE'S SPRING DUST-OFF OF THE CENTURY.  At Congressional Oldsmobile,
801 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD 20852.  Rain Date May 18th.  Specialty
Awards.  Open to all Oldsmobiles.  All proceeds go to charity.  $5 pre-reg
before April 28th, $10 day of show.  For more info: Mike Furman:
Congressional Oldsmobile, 801 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD 20852.
(301) 424-7800.

 ---   Brad Nicholson   OCAª18984
| | |  1987 442 W-42
| | |  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
|/|\|  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
| | |  (H) 76062.3042@compuserve.com
 ---   (W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:44:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Where in the world is Joe Padavano?

Hi all,

I was just wondering why we haven't heard much from Joe Padavano.
Joe are you still out there? :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:53:32 -0400
Subject: RE:'86 442   TPS

Steve and others with TPS problems...

I've recently read that you should replace the TPS every 30k.  I now have
100k on my 91 P/U and now problems yet.  The syptoms you describe do sound
like a TPS.  Have you recently washed the engine, driven through deep water
with the car???? I hope not on that last part. ;-) If these switches get wet
these kind of problems will occur.  I've read if you wash the engine you
should cover the TPS with a plastic bag.

Regarding O2 sensors.  I'd replace it every 30-60k.  When your gas mileage
starts dropping for no reason and nothing you do seems to help
(cap,rotor&plugs) replace the 02 sensor.  It has worked everytime for me.
 I've seen the O2 sensor affect the mileage on my PU by up to 6 mpg on the
highway.  Sometimes these sensors don't fail enough to set the code in GM
computers.

Cecil
NotDads442@aol.com

>From: Steven Larry Cannon <slcannon@uncc.edu>
>Date: Sat, 1 Mar 1997 15:53:09 -0400
>Subject:
>Hey guys,
>
>Spring break is coming up soon and I'm hoping I get the chance to do some
>things to my Cutlass.  The car still doesn't shift right at full throttle
(revs real high) >and it seems to be idling too fast.  Can't tell because
factory tach is off (hope to fix >that also).
>These symptoms are leading me to beleive I have a bad TPS (throttle position
>sensor). My code scanner shows nothing, but it didn't show anything for my
oxygen >sensor either and it the porcelain part was actually cracked in two.
>Does any one know how long a TPS usually lasts or know of any other symptoms
>that are a result of a bad TPS?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve Cannon
>86 442

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:50:35 -0400
Subject: Re: 442 W-Dirty

At 09:16 AM 3/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I found a '70 442 "W-30" for sale in Bryceman's Olds Page  "car's for sale"
>section.   I contacted the owner and he said he had the car since 1977. He
>said it  was a factory W-30 and he had the build sheet.  He also said that
>it had the original F heads, Carb and  Intake.
>
>Yesterday I took the two hour drive to Milpitas see the car.  First thing I
>asked was to see the build sheet.  He said he couldn't find it.  Strange for
>a guy with such a neatly organized garage and yard.

*Ding*Ding*Ding* Yeah, when someone claims to have something like a
build-sheet, but then "can't find it", ya gotta wonder...

>Next, I zeroed in on the "W" goodies.
>1)  Fender wells.  Oooooops, Black.  He said the original owner must have
>changed them.  (hmmmm.  20 years ago ?)

Sure; that red color must have bothered him. Maybe there's a handwritten
note dated from 1970 that says "Dear whoever will buy this car 25 years from
now; We here at the dealership have changed the red fenderwells to black
fenderwells, at the original owner's request."

>2) Heads.  Yep those say "F".  But wait, thats awfully heavy paint in the
>area of the F.   I check the casting part number and it says 403686.  Hey,
>that's the casting number for an "E" head.  How much time did it take to
>grind that "E" onto an "F" ?  Probably less than the four hours I spent on
>the road to see the car.

Hmmm, what did he say about *that* one?

>3) Intake.  Says Olds W-455.  I say "It should say Oldsmobile W-455."  He
>says "Really ?"

Well, I'm sure you just ruined his weekend. Now he has to go scouring the
swap meets to find an intake manifold to return his car to "original"
condition (I'm sure it wasn't easy for him to come across that '71 W-30 unit
in the first place...)

>4) Not an "OW" transmission.
>5) '71 3.08 rear end.

Well, I'm sure that the original owner asked the dealer to swap those parts
over as well...   ;)

>I have heard of such horror stories.  Now I know they are not just stories.
>
>Brad Otto

Nice call, BRAD! But come on, those W-30 decals *must* be at least worth the
premium price that he is asking for a W-30 equipped 442...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 11:46:27 -0400
Subject: Re: turbos/RPM stress

>On another related topic, why is an intake manifold-mounted blower
>called a "supercharger", and a gas driven turbine called a "turbocharger",
>since they both "supercharge" the incoming air? By supercharging I mean
>they both create a higher-than-normal intake pressure condition for the
>engine.  Couldn't they both be accurately called superchargers?

Well, yes. What we call supercharger came first, many decades ago. The
name derived simply from the incoming air/fuel mixture being referred to
as the "charge"; use this gadget to compress it further before it gets
to the cylinder and you've got a "supercharge." The technology to do it
was pretty simple and was used in automotive and aerial applications.

But powering the supercharger required a takeoff from the engine (via
belt, chain or whatever) and thus a power drain or drag on output. If
the output exhaust gas pressure could be run through a turbine (keep
in mind that an engine is basically a really big air pump), its
pressure (not heat) could be used to spin the turbine, and thus a
matching turbine at the opposite end of the shaft could be use to
compress the intake charge. And with some carefully-engineered bearings
and oils developed to handle the high rpms and high temperatures of the
exhaust gases, the turbo-supercharger was developed. It's more often
referred to as simply a turbocharger since the original name was so long
there were problems getting it all into a chrome nameplate that didn't
have to be continued on the next fender.

>Or are they labelled differently just to distinguish between a gas
>driven-charger and a belt-driven charger?

Yes. The turbocharger uses a turbine; the supercharger uses a belt.
(If you want to get picky, you could drive your supercharger with
an electric motor, chain drive or a battery of squirrels on drugs,
but hang a turbine on it and you have a turbocharger.)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª545
********************************
