
oldsmobile-digest    Saturday, September 18 2004    Volume 01 : Number 5025



'69 A/C
Ebay '65 Riveria
Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
Re: '69 A/C
Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
RE: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
Re: Andy's on a rant again
Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
Re: Windshield install
Re: '69 A/C
All Oldsmobile show (Hummelstown, Pa)
RE: Happy 1/2 way to St. Patricks day
Re: All Oldsmobile show (Hummelstown, Pa)
[OT] For those who think a 98 or Toro isn't big enough...
Re: [OT] For those who think a 98 or Toro isn't big enough...
Re: Happy 1/2 way to St. Patricks day
Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)
The flimsiness of Toys
81 Cutlass Diesel
Re: Headlight doors/cornering light lenses for Delta 88
Re: 81 Cutlass Diesel

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 14:08:31 -0400
From: "Harry Vaught" <hlvaught@frozenlady.com>
Subject: '69 A/C

I'm sure this has been beaten to death, but I've been off the list for a 
while (and relocated).

I'm thinking about converting the A/C in my '69 to R-134A.  I see YearOne 
has an R-134A compatible switch to get rid of the POA Valve.  Other than 
this, is there anything I need to do?  Can I then use one of the universal 
kits, such as Interdynamics or Castrol?  I'm sick of what it costs me for 
the simplest work on an R-12 system.  With R-134A, I could do most things 
myself.

Has anyone done this?  How'd it go?

Regards,

Harry Vaught
Maryville, Tennessee
'69 Cutlass Supreme 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 11:12:21 -0700
From: Curt Brennan <cabrennan@charter.net>
Subject: Ebay '65 Riveria

> Sweet riv, shouldn't hat have the clam shels though?

Actually it does have them.....they tuck up inside top and bottom.
They are there.......but I'm not sure how to make them operate.....are
they vacuum or electric operated?

I found out the headlights, power windows, and original AM
radio still work though.....

Curt


> From: oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca (oldsmobile-digest)
> Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 14:44:14 -0300
> To: oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 #5024
> 
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 10:31:01 -0500
> From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
> Subject: Re: '65 Riviera for sale...............
> 
> Sweet riv, shouldn't hat have the clam shels though?
> 
> Allen Schwartz
> Alpine Paving Services, LLC
> mycj@tds.net
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Curt Brennan" <cabrennan@charter.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 10:16 AM
> Subject: '65 Riviera for sale...............
> 
> 
>> Incase anyone is interested or knows anyone who may be...........
>> 
>> Solid restorable '65 Buick Riviera
>> 
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2489145531
>> 
>> 1965 Riviera......very little rust.....very restorable......West Coast Car
>> Located in Eastern Washington State
>> 
>> Email me off list for more ephotos or info.  The auction is over tonite.
>> 
>> Curt
>> Cabrennan@charter.net
>> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 14:13:00 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

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In a message dated 9/17/2004 12:38:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
william.reilly@comcast.net writes:

Our full  frame
older cars will witstand more of an impact with less damage, but the  people
inside are more likely to suffer injuries. Your body gets jolted  around more
if you are inside a full frame vehicle during an  accident.  Newer cars are
designed with crumple zones to absorb the  impact and let the occupants feel
less bounced  around.



Let me play the devil's advocate here.
 
What you say is true. However, if you're traveling 50mph and hit another  
vehicle doing the same speed head on, nothing is going to save you. Air bags,  
crumple zones, nothing will protect you at 100mph collision. Like the man  said, 
it's not the fall that kills you, it's the sudden stop! As far as crumple  
zones are concerned, I think they have been added by Auto  Manufacturers to 
insure that even the slightest collision guarantees you will be  keeping their 
parts manufacturing divisions healthy! If a 5mph crash can cause  over $1000 in 
new parts, imagine what a 40mph crash would be worth. Sounds  like big business 
to me.
In reality, these crumple zones do provide a margin of safety, but if it  
wasn't profitable for the Auto companies, do you still think they'd have  them?
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/17/2004 12:38:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
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<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
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the=20
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=20
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<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Let me play the devil's advocate here.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>What you say is true. However, if you're traveling 50mph and hit anothe=
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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 13:40:39 -0500
From: "Branson Sparks" <bsparks@gosparkle.net>
Subject: Re: '69 A/C

Tried to reply to a similar note earlier, but was
sp*mblocked.

I converted my 1985 Delta 88 A/C to R-134A. It works well,
though I think I need to replace the fixed orifice tube
with a variable one to get better cooling at idle. Cooling
at road speeds is good. It would probably be to your
advantage when you have the R-12 reclaimed to replace the
accumulator/drier as the dessicant was compatible in my
case with R-134a, but loses its "dessicant power" after a
while.


- --Branson


On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 14:08:31 -0400
 "Harry Vaught" <hlvaught@frozenlady.com> wrote:
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of
> CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> I'm sure this has been beaten to death, but I've been off
> the list for a while (and relocated).
> 
> I'm thinking about converting the A/C in my '69 to
> R-134A.  I see YearOne has an R-134A compatible switch to
> get rid of the POA Valve.  Other than this, is there
> anything I need to do?  Can I then use one of the
> universal kits, such as Interdynamics or Castrol?  I'm
> sick of what it costs me for the simplest work on an R-12
> system.  With R-134A, I could do most things myself.
> 
> Has anyone done this?  How'd it go?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Harry Vaught
> Maryville, Tennessee
> '69 Cutlass Supreme 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 14:47:29 -0400
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

> In reality, these crumple zones do provide a margin of safety, but if it
wasn't profitable for the Auto companies, do you still think they'd have
them?
>
> Bruce

No, I don't think auto manufacturers would make crumple zones. I don't think
it's profitable for them.  I think it's we, the consumer, who have demanded
safer vehicles, and this it what the auto makers have designed.

We could go on and on about this, so I'll stop before it gets carried away.
My point is, that there is a give and take relationship in building cars.
Certain things change in an effort to create a safer vehicle for ~today's
standards.~

Yes, it sucks that if you get into an accident with a new car it costs more
to repair, but that's why we carry insurance.  Yes, I love my older car and
the fact that it's easier to work on myself and parts are still relatively
cheap. But for everyday safe, reliable, transportation I'd take my newer
oldsmobile over my older one.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'00 Intrigue

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:09:12 -0400
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@connect-one.com>
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

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At 02:13 PM 9/17/2004 -0400, you wrote:

>In a message dated 9/17/2004 12:38:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>william.reilly@comcast.net writes:
>Our full frame
>older cars will witstand more of an impact with less damage, but the people
>inside are more likely to suffer injuries. Your body gets jolted around more
>if you are inside a full frame vehicle during an accident.  Newer cars are
>designed with crumple zones to absorb the impact and let the occupants feel
>less bounced around.
>Let me play the devil's advocate here.
>
>What you say is true. However, if you're traveling 50mph and hit another 
>vehicle doing the same speed head on, nothing is going to save you. Air 
>bags, crumple zones, nothing will protect you at 100mph collision. Like 
>the man said, it's not the fall that kills you, it's the sudden stop! As 
>far as crumple zones are concerned, I think they have been added by Auto 
>Manufacturers to insure that even the slightest collision guarantees you 
>will be keeping their parts manufacturing divisions healthy! If a 5mph 
>crash can cause over $1000 in new parts, imagine what a 40mph crash would 
>be worth. Sounds like big business to me.


Well, I think that a 5mph crash costs over $1000 in parts because the auto 
companies can charge $1000 in parts for a new car.  It can't cost that much 
to mold plastic.  They charge because there's a demand.  Crumple zones or not.

Personally, I don't think I want to travel daily in a car that weighs less 
than 3000lb, be it old or new.  If you're light you're going to take a 
harder hit.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser        80 Cutlass Calais               82 Buick Riviera
67 Cutlass Supreme      87 Cutlass Supreme 4-door       Roanoke, VA

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:13:10 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

Did anyone see the "Fifth Gear" [British car show] on Speed a couple of
weeks ago?

They tested the idea of crashing cars head on at 60 mph (Government crash
tests stop at 40 mph).  They rigged the cars with remote controls and drove
them head on at an airstrip.  The cars were a mid '90's Volvo and the same
vintage BMW 5 series.  A collision expert reviewed the results and
determined that basically nothing would have survived.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

- -----Original Message-----
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com [mailto:JonKrisInc@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 2:13 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)


In a message dated 9/17/2004 12:38:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
william.reilly@comcast.net writes:
Our full frame
older cars will witstand more of an impact with less damage, but the people
inside are more likely to suffer injuries. Your body gets jolted around more
if you are inside a full frame vehicle during an accident.  Newer cars are
designed with crumple zones to absorb the impact and let the occupants feel
less bounced around.

Let me play the devil's advocate here.

What you say is true. However, if you're traveling 50mph and hit another
vehicle doing the same speed head on, nothing is going to save you. Air
bags, crumple zones, nothing will protect you at 100mph collision. Like the
man said, it's not the fall that kills you, it's the sudden stop! As far as
crumple zones are concerned, I think they have been added by Auto
Manufacturers to insure that even the slightest collision guarantees you
will be keeping their parts manufacturing divisions healthy! If a 5mph crash
can cause over $1000 in new parts, imagine what a 40mph crash would be
worth. Sounds like big business to me.
In reality, these crumple zones do provide a margin of safety, but if it
wasn't profitable for the Auto companies, do you still think they'd have
them?

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:16:10 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Andy's on a rant again

> Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 12:58:09 -0400
> From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
> Subject: Re: Andy's on a rant again
> 
> At Thursday, 16 September 2004, you wrote:
> 
> >Just my $0.02
> >
> >My 2000 Intrigue just passed 114,000 miles. I've only had 
> >2 service issues, and those happened early under warranty. 
> >It's a low maintanence car, just regular oil changes. I 
> >haven't even changed the spark plugs and I still get 26 
> >mpg.
> 
> You should at least remove and reinstall the plugs every 2 years 
> or about 35,000 miles, in my opinion. That's because they can build 
> up carbon gunk on the inner threads, making them extremely hard to 
> get outta the head. My '88 fullsized wagon with 307 appeared to have 
> its original plugs when I bought it, with 200K already on it. It 
> DID have its original 1988-vintage wires on it, as IDed by the date 
> code on them  ;o\
> 
> SteveH

In addition to what Steve posted, I'd like mention that as I was waiting in the alignment shop for my car to be completed, I read a trade article on spark plugs. One of the problems with leaving plugs in for extended periods of time is that they can corrode into the head(s), and upon removal of the spark plug many times the threads in the head strip out. Apparently this is especially problematic on aluminum headed engines. The article recommended replacing plugs, even platinum extended life plugs, at normal plug change intervals. Imagine that spark plug change at 100K+ miles requiring the head(s) to be pulled so one or more spark plug holes could be drilled and Helicoiled. Regular plug changes are well worth the price for the insurance against stripped threads. 

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:23:58 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

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As far as safety is concerned, you'll get no argument from me. I own new  
cars and fully understand what you say. But on a sunny day, driving down  a 
country road in a Cutlass conv. listening to the engine and  exhausts....all I can 
say is that new cars don't make music..that's why they  all need radios with 
twelve speakers, to break the monotonous  silence!
 
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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<DIV>As far as safety is concerned, you'll get no argument from me. I own ne=
w=20
cars and fully understand what you say. But on a sunny day, driving&nbsp;dow=
n=20
a&nbsp;country road in a Cutlass conv. listening to the engine and=20
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=20
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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:30:25 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield install

> Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 19:46:51 -0700
> From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: Windshield install
> 
> On late model unibody cars, the glass is actually an 
> important part of the body structure/strength.  It is 
> absolutely necessary to install the windshield and rear 
> window using the correct sealant/adhesive and the proper 
> techniques. In the case of a roll over, an improperly 
> installed windshield can easily pop out, greatly reducing 
> the strength of the roof structure, therefore collapsing 
> much easier.  In the earlier days of unibody construction 
> (80's) there were many accidents of this nature and 
> many lawsuits because glass popped out and injuries/deaths 
> were higher.  If installing glass in a unibody, be sure you 
> have the process and materials down right.
> 
> Joe Varley
>        AZ

As a convertible owner, I made sure that the replacement windshield 
was installed with the proper primers and adhesives for the above reasons. 
And I wanted to point out that a new windshield, installed by a professional 
right in my driveway and using the proper adhesives, cost me about $180.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:32:07 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: '69 A/C

Harry Vaught wrote:

> I'm sure this has been beaten to death, but I've been off the list for a 
> while (and relocated).
> 
> I'm thinking about converting the A/C in my '69 to R-134A.  I see 
> YearOne has an R-134A compatible switch to get rid of the POA Valve.  
> Other than this, is there anything I need to do?  Can I then use one of 
> the universal kits, such as Interdynamics or Castrol?  I'm sick of what 
> it costs me for the simplest work on an R-12 system.  With R-134A, I 
> could do most things myself.
> 
> Has anyone done this?  How'd it go?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Harry Vaught
> Maryville, Tennessee
> '69 Cutlass Supreme
> 
> 
Harry
     I can not directly answer your question. However I did overhaul the
A/C on a couple of my cars. My 70 has a rebuilt POA valve from a company
in florida cost $35.00 (could be more depending on the condiditon of the
valve when you send in) they can calibrate the valve for whatever freon
you are going to use. I still use R-12. My 80 I rebuilt by replacing the
accumulator and the orifice tube and rechargeing with "freeze 12", an
R-12 replacement about $5.00 per pound but you do have to be certified
to buy it. It works great no cooling issues whatever. I have been told
that you can mix freeze 12 with r-12 without problems but I do
not know that from personal experience. There are a number of issues
with 134. Lack of proper cooling, increased pressures which may lead to
compressor failure , incompatible oil, etc. Hope this helps.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:34:33 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: All Oldsmobile show (Hummelstown, Pa)

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All OLDSMOBILE Fall Meet, sponsored by the Blue Gray Chapter OCA, this  
Sunday at the Soda jerk Diner on East Main St. That's about 2 1/2hrs West of me.  
Anyone planning to go?
 
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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<DIV>All OLDSMOBILE Fall Meet, sponsored by the Blue Gray Chapter OCA, this=20
Sunday at the Soda jerk Diner on East Main St. That's about 2 1/2hrs West of=
 me.=20
Anyone planning to go?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1095449672--

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:36:14 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Happy 1/2 way to St. Patricks day

> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 13:39:35 -0400
> From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
> Subject: Happy 1/2 way to St. Patricks day
> 
> Hi everyone
>     Let me be the first to wish all of you a Happy Half-way till St. 
> Patricks Day! Only 6 months to green beer.
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio

Thanks for the heads up! 

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 20:30:32 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: All Oldsmobile show (Hummelstown, Pa)

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> All OLDSMOBILE Fall Meet, sponsored by the Blue Gray Chapter 
> OCA, this Sunday at the Soda jerk Diner on East Main St. That's 
> about 2 1/2hrs West of me. Anyone planning to go?
Uh, me.  Manning the registration table.  Kept forgetting to submit a shameless plug.  We were a little concerned about the weather, but looks like Ivan will be out of the way by then.  C'mon out!
We're even going to have a parts vendor this year!
Paul
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<html><body>
<P><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>&gt; All OLDSMOBILE Fall Meet, sponsored by the Blue Gray Chapter <BR>&gt; </FONT><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>OCA, this Sunday at the Soda jerk Diner on East Main St. That's <BR>&gt; about 2 1/2hrs West of me. Anyone planning to go?</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Uh, me.&nbsp; Manning the registration table.&nbsp; Kept forgetting to submit a shameless plug.&nbsp; We were a little concerned about the weather, but looks like Ivan will be out of the way by then.&nbsp; C'mon out!</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>We're even going to have a parts vendor this year!</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Paul</FONT></P></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_20247_1095453032_0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:26:13 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: [OT] For those who think a 98 or Toro isn't big enough...

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6026041/

I had to laugh when I read this, and yes, they're serious.

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 16:29:15 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: [OT] For those who think a 98 or Toro isn't big enough...

These puppies are for real, I have seen 2 of them here in Spokane. While
they look like they mean business, translate that to only the black top.And
just think what that baby would be like in the ice and snow; if you don't
know try driving a semi tractor without the weight of a trailer behind it.
Off road, any little truck or Jeep would easily whup it. No thanks, I don't
even like the Hummers.Give me a GMC or a Toyota.
Rick Messenger
76 98 LS coupe
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 2:26 PM
Subject: [OT] For those who think a 98 or Toro isn't big enough...


> http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6026041/
>
> I had to laugh when I read this, and yes, they're serious.
>
> -- Andy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 16:29:17 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Happy 1/2 way to St. Patricks day

I suppose I should start brewing now!!  : )

LOL
M


At 01:39 PM 9/17/2004 -0400, John Kelesy wrote:
>Let me be the first to wish all of you a Happy Half-way till St. Patricks 
>Day! Only 6 months to green beer.

Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 16:55:01 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

The Devil is always in the details fella's. I was once told by an auto
engineer that car's we drive today, are almost 5-10 years old to them. And
they are designed for profit, from the show room floor, to the junk yard.
They can build vehicles today that "could" withstand simple crashes, and
still be just as safe. Why don't they, it's just plain economics 101. Why
don't they build cars that will run on liquid Hydrogen? This same engineer
told me that the technology has existed for decades; there is simply more
money to be made off of petroleum. And the stock holders aren't about to
take any kind of loss; that might mean giving up the house in Vail, or the
beach home in Maui.........,O my!

As for the discussion over the cheapness of Japanese versus American; I seen
no difference where any kind of crash is concerned. Any thing that uses a
hydroformed/ Styrofoam bumper (as most all American cars do) and plastic
everywhere, any little fender bender is going to ding you LARGE. I don't
care if it is a Mercedes, Cadillac, Buick, Lexus and Ford Focus, you are
going to pay big time.  I have a body/fender friend who owns his own shop.
In the last 6 years, he has made a fortune in collision repair/insurance
work. He used to be a poor auto restorer, now he is a slimy, but honest ,
"collision" center owner. Can you say "kA-ching  kA-ching". I asked him
about repainting my 98, he said I can get to you when I have time, but
expect to leave your car with me for 6-8 months. I am in the wrong business!

Tell you what though, I do love driving my old wide body 76 98  on the
streets, watching all the new cars, and SUVs give me room and even yield for
me, sure feels good. Like Bruce alluded to..........., they don't want to
mess with that! HA

Rick Messenger
76 98 coupe
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Reilly" <william.reilly@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)


> I'll play devil's advocate for a second.
>
> Yes, our Older full frame cars are stonger, however, newer cars are safer.
> With new cars, the vehicle itself is designed to absorb all of the impact
in
> a collision.  That's why they turn into a mangled mess.  Our full frame
> older cars will witstand more of an impact with less damage, but the
people
> inside are more likely to suffer injuries. Your body gets jolted around
more
> if you are inside a full frame vehicle during an accident.  Newer cars are
> designed with crumple zones to absorb the impact and let the occupants
feel
> less bounced around.
>
> The trade off for safety is that a "minor fender bender" in a new car
costs
> several thousand dollars to repair due to the crumple zones and airbags.
>
> Bill Reilly
>
>
> > Olds. There was the wrecker, lifting his mangled mess, bleeding  green,
> pieces of
> > Japanese plastic lens and grille material all over the  road, while I
> drove
> > off with a cracked taillight. The Delta bumper absorber  prevented any
> damage.
> > Cost me $90 for the "can w/tailight" and bumper  absorber, from Desert
> dog.
> >
> > Bruce
> > 75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 20:23:27 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: The flimsiness of Toys (was: Andy's on a rant again)

About the engine tech - 15 years ago, French-German team made an adiabatic,
3cylinder, 1600cc turbo engine, burning any oil, virgine olive one, if you
wish and could afford it. The engine was giving 110HP at 3900-4100rpm and
had no radiator... adiabatic was, right? Ceramic coated inside.
Now, have you ever heard about it? Nope, But this type of engine sort of
closes the CO2 loop - you grow plants, produce oil, burn it, free some CO2
and with the next season you will capture it again, I guess the same happens
with the brazilian alkohol...
On the Olds topic now - My TH350C was rebuild, works mucho better, but there
is a big gap between the 2-3 upshift. 1-2 is good, wery low in rpm, later
the gearbox waits till 35mph to pass the 3rd. All that when driving slowly,
with high vacuum. At lower vacuum it will wait much more to shift, but this
doesn't matter :-) even better...

Any ideas about?
TIA
Matt
81CS 468ci

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:16:10 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: The flimsiness of Toys

Check the adjustment to the cable to the carb.  Bruce Roe

17 Sep 2004 "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net> writes:
> On the Olds topic now - My TH350C was rebuild, works 
> mucho better, but there is a big gap between the 2-3 
> upshift. 1-2 is good, wery low in rpm, later the gearbox
> waits till 35mph to pass the 3rd. All that when driving 
> slowly, with high vacuum. At lower vacuum it will wait 
> much more to shift, but this doesn't matter even better...
> 
> Any ideas about?
> TIA
> Matt
> 81CS 468ci

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:35:32 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 81 Cutlass Diesel

You have a 350 cu diesel?  I have one of those, of course the 
trans was blown when I got it.  The best trans for that car is 
a THM400 SWitch Pitch and SWP controller.  With a 2.41 axle 
(2.21 was standard) it has the pep of a regular car in town, 
still can hit 30 mpg even without the lockup converter, bolts 
right up to the engine, and no more transmission problems.  

Bruce Roe

12 Sep 2004  "David Manly" <dmanlyr@comcast.net> writes:
> This would be a non computer controlled 81' Cutlass with 
> a diesel, 200c trans.  (yes, I would love to have a 350c or 
> a 200r4, although finding one complete with a
> torque converter setup for a diesel is hard to find)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:02:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fellman <frank.fellman@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight doors/cornering light lenses for Delta 88

- --0-518035982-1095480137=:52295
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

For an '85 88. eh?  Gimme a few days, Branson, and I'll see if 
I can find 'em at Pick'n'Pull...  Um-- what color (in case I have 
some options)?
 
Oh-- and stay clear of those F*rd SUVs, man!
 
                                     Phantom455
=============================================

Branson Sparks <bsparks@gosparkle.net> wrote:

Greetings, all.

It's a long story that deals with an idiot and a ditzy
girl, but the bottom line of everything is that I have been
hit twice... Only damage to my '85 88 was the headlight
doors/trim piece thingy that goes around the headlights and
contains the cornering lights on both sides. Just wondering
if anyone new where I could pick up a left and right side
trim piece in good condition.

<snip>

TIA,
Branson


- --0-518035982-1095480137=:52295
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>For an '85 88. eh?&nbsp; Gimme a few days, Branson, and I'll see if </DIV>
<DIV>I can find 'em at Pick'n'Pull...&nbsp; Um-- what color (in case I have </DIV>
<DIV>some options)?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Oh-- and stay clear of those F*rd SUVs, man!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Phantom455</DIV>
<DIV>=============================================<BR><BR><B><I>Branson Sparks &lt;bsparks@gosparkle.net&gt;</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
<P>Greetings, all.<BR><BR>It's a long story that deals with an idiot and a ditzy<BR>girl, but the bottom line of everything is that I have been<BR>hit twice... Only damage to my '85 88 was the headlight<BR>doors/trim piece thingy that goes around the headlights and<BR>contains the cornering lights on both sides. Just wondering<BR>if anyone new where I could pick up a left and right side<BR>trim piece in good condition.</P>
<P>&lt;snip&gt;</P>
<P>TIA,<BR>Branson<BR></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
- --0-518035982-1095480137=:52295--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:22:20 -0700
From: "David Manly" <dmanlyr@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass Diesel

Bruce,

I sure agree with you that the 200's are not very good transmissions. I also
thought about the TH400 route, but I don't want to give up any further
horsepower to transmission losses than I have to. Of course I doubt that I
would ever have to touch the trans again with a 400. I would like to raise
the converter lockup on the 200C that I have, and I imagine that I will have
to replace it sooner rather than later. My other thought as to the 400 was
that the rear cross member would have to be changed? Did you do this with
your Cutlass? Or would it be possible to use the later 200R4 cross member?
How did you hook up the switch pitch to your Cutlass? Manual or automatic
switch?

I have had way more problems with the 200 trans than the diesel engines in
these Olds. I have had a variety of different diesel models over the years
(88, 98 and Cierra's, never till now a RWD Cutlass) and currently have this
81 Cutlass t-top. It has just over 32k original on it, but don't get to
excited about the mileage it sat out in the sun all of its life, so while
mechanically it is not worn out per say, the body weather-stripping and
interior have taken it in the shorts. No rust at all though so it is worth
doing something with it. I also don't think that the previous old lady owner
did much of anything to it, ever. Funny though to see a almost 25 year old
car with the factory exhaust system still intact! It had the OEM GM shocks
on it still, and they had absolutely ZERO resistance either way!

So I am in the process of repairing many little things, I don't think I will
paint the car as it is fairly nice, but it does need interior work. To make
things a bit more difficult there it is in a light shade of green, which I
like, but it is hard to find interior trim for it. I am also changing a few
things that I know to detract from the drivability, such as the converter
lockup. I generally don't slow down much for corners, so I have purchased
the GN sway bars front and rear for it, and I think I will look around for a
slightly stiffer and maybe 1" lower set of springs. A bit different for your
average diesel driver, but I don't want to give up any of the speed that has
taken so long to build up!

Thanks for your thoughts, David





- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <bcroe@juno.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 7:35 PM
Subject: 81 Cutlass Diesel


> You have a 350 cu diesel?  I have one of those, of course the
> trans was blown when I got it.  The best trans for that car is
> a THM400 SWitch Pitch and SWP controller.  With a 2.41 axle
> (2.21 was standard) it has the pep of a regular car in town,
> still can hit 30 mpg even without the lockup converter, bolts
> right up to the engine, and no more transmission problems.
>
> Bruce Roe
>
> 12 Sep 2004  "David Manly" <dmanlyr@comcast.net> writes:
> > This would be a non computer controlled 81' Cutlass with
> > a diesel, 200c trans.  (yes, I would love to have a 350c or
> > a 200r4, although finding one complete with a
> > torque converter setup for a diesel is hard to find)
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5025
*********************************
