
oldsmobile-digest     Friday, September 10 2004     Volume 01 : Number 5017



Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
Re: NOS grilles, OAI aircleaner base and lid For Sale
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
RE: Starter
ISO Parts/ 65 Starfires FS/ISO 66 or 67 Cutlass
Re: Starter
Starter
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
Ignition problem?
Re: Ignition problem?
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
Headers for the 19__ Delta 88 with SBO ??
Seeking a person too!
Re: Ignition problem?
Arggggg Heater control valve again.
numerous 1968 [and other years?] Trunk Key "D" blanks cheap
Re: steering gear box rebuilds
Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 14:13:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

John,

Your GM ignition box looks suspiciously like it was made by MSD. I'll bet it
was. However, it's wired for a GM car/engine system. Do you know what it was
supposed to fit?

In looking at my master MSD instruction manual for all 6 series ignition
control boxes, you have too many wires.

The heavy red wire goes to (+) battery.
The heavy black wire goes to (-) battery.
The connector probably goes to the tach???
That takes care of everything to the viewer's left of the picture. The 6
wire plug on the right is a different story. I would guess the following:
The red goes to the ignition key.
The orange goes to the (+) side of the coil.
The adjacent black goes to the (-) side of the coil.
The white is not used.
The green goes to green on the by-pass cable.
The wire adjacent to the green, purple???, goes to violet on the by-pass
cable.

Those are my guesses from my experience with many other MSD units. The
problem is, if I'm wrong on one, the ignition box will probably
self-destruct.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- --- Original Message -----
From: "John Livingston" <johnliving@cox.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 3:14 AM
Subject: GM HD ignition box connections?


> Folks,
>
> I've had a GM racing HD ignition box for quite some time and want to
> finally get it hooked up. I need help figuring out where to run the
> connections from the six weather pack sockets. I got one of the MSD
> HEI adapters, but I think maybe those colors don't necessarily match
> the ones on the GM box. I've put a picture of what I have, along with
> a few other details, on this page:
> http://www.johnlivingston.com/gm_hd_ignition_box.htm
>
> Thanks.
>
> John
> 68 442 convt. getting some miles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 17:57:26 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: NOS grilles, OAI aircleaner base and lid For Sale

- -------------------------------1094767046
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The time has come to clean out the basement of some stuff.  I have a couple 
of sets of new GM 70 Supreme grilles for sale.  They aren't in the boxes 
anymore for some unknown reason.  They are otherwise perfect.  I will sell them for 
$275/pr plus shipping.  I also have a set of NOS 69 Cutlass grilles, still in 
the GM cartons.  I want $300 for this set.  I have a 70-72 W 30 aircleaner 
base and small diameter lid as well. The base is good, no rust, and still sports 
the GM tag.  I'll sell this setup for $350 plus shipping.  I'm in St. Louis.
Thanks,
Steve D

- -------------------------------1094767046
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>The time has come to clean out the basement of some stuff.&nbsp; I have=
 a couple of sets of new GM 70 Supreme grilles for sale.&nbsp; They aren't i=
n the boxes anymore for some unknown reason.&nbsp; They are otherwise perfec=
t.&nbsp; I will sell them for $275/pr plus shipping.&nbsp; I also have a set=
 of NOS 69 Cutlass grilles, still in the GM cartons.&nbsp; I want $300 for t=
his set.&nbsp; I have a 70-72 W 30 aircleaner base and small diameter lid as=
 well. The base is good, no rust, and still sports the GM tag.&nbsp; I'll se=
ll this setup for $350 plus shipping.&nbsp; I'm in St. Louis.</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Steve D</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1094767046--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 19:30:48 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

Milton,

These are supposed to be ex racing units. They're basically 
ruggedized MSD units, I think, with all the components set in epoxy 
or some such.

Here's where you get them:
http://www.musclemotorsports.com/msdigboxgmde.html

The connector to the left is for an external rev limiter. The red and 
black power leads I knew about, but I understand that the six 
weatherpacked wires don't exactly correspond to the usual MSD units. 
The purple wire in particular - I believe - doesn't match to the 
purple on the MSD bypass. I was put onto these by Ken Snyder. He 
suggested I get Nelson Technologies
http://www.nelsonspecialties.com/
to make me up a harness, but that cost more than the unit itself! 
He'd offered to give me the connections, but I think he's snowed 
under as he didn't answer my most recent e-mail.

I may have to bite the bullet and get Nelson to do the harness. I 
guess I'd better beat the bejesus outta the car afterwards to make 
all this HD stuff worth the effort!

John "Why Do Anything The Easy Way?" Livingston
68 442 convt.

>John,
>
>Your GM ignition box looks suspiciously like it was made by MSD. I'll bet it
>was. However, it's wired for a GM car/engine system. Do you know what it was
>supposed to fit?
>
>In looking at my master MSD instruction manual for all 6 series ignition
>control boxes, you have too many wires.
>
>The heavy red wire goes to (+) battery.
>The heavy black wire goes to (-) battery.
>The connector probably goes to the tach???
>That takes care of everything to the viewer's left of the picture. The 6
>wire plug on the right is a different story. I would guess the following:
>The red goes to the ignition key.
>The orange goes to the (+) side of the coil.
>The adjacent black goes to the (-) side of the coil.
>The white is not used.
>The green goes to green on the by-pass cable.
>The wire adjacent to the green, purple???, goes to violet on the by-pass
>cable.
>
>Those are my guesses from my experience with many other MSD units. The
>problem is, if I'm wrong on one, the ignition box will probably
>self-destruct.
>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>--- Original Message -----
>From: "John Livingston" <johnliving@cox.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 3:14 AM
>Subject: GM HD ignition box connections?
>
>
>>  Folks,
>>
>>  I've had a GM racing HD ignition box for quite some time and want to
>>  finally get it hooked up. I need help figuring out where to run the
>>  connections from the six weather pack sockets. I got one of the MSD
>>  HEI adapters, but I think maybe those colors don't necessarily match
>>  the ones on the GM box. I've put a picture of what I have, along with
>>  a few other details, on this page:
>>  http://www.johnlivingston.com/gm_hd_ignition_box.htm
>>
>>  Thanks.
>>
>>  John
>>  68 442 convt. getting some miles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 17:16:24 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

John,

> Here's where you get them:
> http://www.musclemotorsports.com/msdigboxgmde.html


Your unit is a MSD 6TN. My instruction sheet covers that unit.


> The connector to the left is for an external rev limiter.


Correct, as per the instructions.


> but I understand that the six
> weatherpacked wires don't exactly correspond to the usual MSD units.
> The purple wire in particular - I believe - doesn't match to the
> purple on the MSD bypass.


I don't know, but if this unit is a MSD 6TN equivalent, I don't know why it
isn't the same.


> I may have to bite the bullet and get Nelson to do the harness. I
> guess I'd better beat the bejesus outta the car afterwards to make
> all this HD stuff worth the effort!
>
> John "Why Do Anything The Easy Way?" Livingston


Yeah, by that time, you will have as much in it as if you had bought a
complete new MSD 6A unit, with instructions, from the speed shop.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 17:33:58 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Starter

In addition to what Milton posted, I wanted to point out that the original 
style Ni-Chrome resistor wire must not be used with the HEI distributor. You 
need to use a regular copper wire so that the HEI gets the full 12 Volts. If 
you use the resistor wire, the HEI will be starved as it will have only 9 
Volts or so and you can end up with all sorts of odd ignition issues.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:07 -0700
> From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
> Subject: Re: Starter
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Ron is correct, but you may have another problem. You said 
> your car was switched over to a HEI. Is the HEI still on the car? If so, 
> you must be careful what wires you hook up. A HEI does ***not*** use the 
> yellow wire on the R terminal. There's a very good reason. The R terminal is 
> used on a points distributor to by-pass the ignition resistance wire 
> during starting only to have a full 12 volts. Normal running for a points 
> distributor is 9 volts. A HEI is direct 12 volts. There is no resistor. If you 
> hook up the yellow wire to the R terminal, chances are one of two things 
> will happen. Either once the engine is started, you will ***not*** be able 
> to shut it off with the key, or the starter will continue to run with the 
> engine running, with the starter engaged in the flexplate. Be very careful 
> what you change when you install that new wiring harness on your car with the 
> HEI. That wiring harness is for a points distributor, which is very 
> different from a HEI.
> 
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
> 
> 
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
> To: "olds" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 4:07 AM
> Subject: Starter
> 
> 
> > Hello in oldsmobile land
> >  Does anybody know which wire goes where on the starter (one purple
> > one yellow)?   Bought a car 70 350 and somebody put on a HEI distributor
> > and did a beautiful job butchering up all of the harnesses, so had to
> > put a new set on, that is the question, starter had only one little wire
> > on it.
> > New harness has two wires for the starter which color goes on the R
> > and which one goes on the S??
> > Thanks Bob

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 20:53:54 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: ISO Parts/ 65 Starfires FS/ISO 66 or 67 Cutlass

Hey List,

Another Olds guy was told to look me up at work.....amazing how fast word
travels in the Olds crowd.....So I have a new Olds friend. Kenny has two '65
Starfires that he either wants to fix up (they sound like good resto/daily
driver candidates), sell or trade for a '66 or '67 Cutlass. Depends on which
opportunity arises first. If anyone is interested in the cars or has parts
for them etc., please contact him directly at VANOLDS@aol.com

He's looking for around $5k for the pair of Starfires or a trade for a
Cutlass.

Kenny is located near me in southeastern PA. About 30 miles west of Philly.

Below is his latest e-mail to me....

Randy

> Hey,
> It's Ken VanDeBoe,
> Just touching base .I still looking to complete my 65 Starfires or ,
Perhaps
> trade for a 66 or
> 67 cutlass ???
>
> Also, Always looking for parts, good 425 motor etc,
>
> Let m e know if any good local olds swap meets are in the future ??
>
> Thanks,
>
> KennyV
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 19:41:52 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Starter

> In addition to what Milton posted, I wanted to point out that the original
> style Ni-Chrome resistor wire must not be used with the HEI distributor.
You
> need to use a regular copper wire so that the HEI gets the full 12 Volts.
If
> you use the resistor wire, the HEI will be starved as it will have only 9
> Volts or so and you can end up with all sorts of odd ignition issues.

Correct! That's why I like to run a new, separate, dedicated 12 volt wire
from either a switched source or from the battery junction terminal to a
toggle switch for a HEI or any other magnetic trigger distributor, like a
MSD, Stinger, ACCEL, etc.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 20:40:22 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Starter

If your harness was for points, it probably has a resistance 
wire to the coil.  The HEI power must not have a resistor, 
connected it direct to 12V ignition.  Bruce Roe

9 Sep 2004  "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> writes:
> A HEI is direct 12 volts. There is no resistor. 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 22:57:58 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

John/List,

I have to humbly apologize for not responding sooner -- with two houses, the 
red Starfire in the shop (the body shop from hell), trouble with Chelsea's 
street RX-7 and my truck leaking oil like the Exxon Valdez on top of the regular 
job as well as the ANG you could say I've been a little preoccupied:-)

Anyway, I also have two of Muscle Motorsports' GM/MSD racing boxes.  The 
latest versions have a clear back plate, it's neat to see just what's inside one 
of these critters.  Mine also have a sticker on them listing what connects 
where:

Large Black -- Ground.  Make sure this is as close to battery ground as you 
can get it, on the race cars I wire up (been doing that too) I try to get this 
one back to the battery itself via a terminal block but without any other 
splices in the wire.  You want this wire to have as little resistance as possible, 
it's that important.

Large Red -- Battery Positive.  If you are installing this in a race car, 
this wire should be controlled by the emergency switch and nothing else.  I 
install this wire just like the Large Black wire above, for the same reasons.

On Chelsea's RX-7 (which uses the most outrageous setup you can imagine -- 
one MSD box controlling two MSD coils connected in parallel to the coil trigger 
wires) I ran these two wires to a terminal block and then on to the battery.  
They were connected electrically all the time and we never had a problem with 
the box.

The small wires:
First of all, I would use 18 gauge wire for these if you need to lengthen 
them or fabricate a harness.  Here's the color codes as per the MMS sticker (and 
verified by the Nelson Specialties sticker on the 6TN box in Chelsea's RX-7):

Red -- Ignition.  Your original HEI "+" wire would splice to this one.
White -- Tach signal.  If your box has a male spade lug on one end, that's 
the tach hookup.  If not, this is it.  I actually have a box where someone 
grafted on a Weatherpack connector and the tach wire runs along the outside of the 
box to the spade lug, not recommended.
Orange -- "+" on coil.
Black -- "-" on coil.

The next two get slightly confusing:
Green -- Distributor pickup coil Orange wire.  This would be the pickup in 
the bottom of the HEI, unsure on others.
Purple -- Distributor pickup coil Green wire.  Same as above.
I have been told that if you switch these two wires the unit won't function 
at peak performance, never tried it myself.

Here's how the Weatherpack connector is wired up on my box:
A -- Red
B -- White
C -- Black
D -- Orange
E -- Green
F -- Purple

Once I get this back from the List I'm going to save it on my 'puter in case 
anyone needs it in the future.  Again, I apologize for not responding sooner.

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 23:09:37 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

I have this same unit in my car, it's a 6tn "nascar" box. Tough as nails I
tell you since I blew an arc half way across my car when installing it and
it works fine still.  I'l look at the wires tomarrow and try to get them to
you. Mine are hooked to an msd distributor though so those wires may ne
different. That adaptor you have in the pack looks like the plug on the msd
distributor which you wouldn't use if you use a hei

Allen Schwartz
Alpine Paving Services, LLC
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?


> John,
>
> > Here's where you get them:
> > http://www.musclemotorsports.com/msdigboxgmde.html
>
>
> Your unit is a MSD 6TN. My instruction sheet covers that unit.
>
>
> > The connector to the left is for an external rev limiter.
>
>
> Correct, as per the instructions.
>
>
> > but I understand that the six
> > weatherpacked wires don't exactly correspond to the usual MSD units.
> > The purple wire in particular - I believe - doesn't match to the
> > purple on the MSD bypass.
>
>
> I don't know, but if this unit is a MSD 6TN equivalent, I don't know why
it
> isn't the same.
>
>
> > I may have to bite the bullet and get Nelson to do the harness. I
> > guess I'd better beat the bejesus outta the car afterwards to make
> > all this HD stuff worth the effort!
> >
> > John "Why Do Anything The Easy Way?" Livingston
>
>
> Yeah, by that time, you will have as much in it as if you had bought a
> complete new MSD 6A unit, with instructions, from the speed shop.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 22:16:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: JEFFREY LISLE <jeffslisle@yahoo.com>
Subject: Ignition problem?

- --0-317379382-1094793382=:4792
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi all,
 
My '65 Cutlass wont start!  I drove it around for about 20 min today and when I got home I decided maybe it could use a tune up.  I have never had an HEI engine until I swapped in this 350 which drives great until today.  So I was going to pull the rotor and distributor cap to take to a parts store and get a new set since I don't really know what year the engine is.  Well the wife came home before I pulled anything (had groceries) all I did was unclamp the cap look under and clamp the distributor cap back on.  When I came out I tried to start it and nothing, no trying to turn over or anything.  Batt is good, all the ACC and lights work but it  just wont start?  I checked all the wires and they are all still snug.  I am not sure but I was thinking the ignition switch?  I don't know much about HEI is there really any big difference?  I am stumped.  The black box on the drivers side is that the voltage regulator?  Could that cause a problem maybe it just went out?  Sorry if I sound like
 I dont know anything but I am still new to classic cars and I really appreaciate all the info I have received thus far.  Thanks Jeff 


		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers!
- --0-317379382-1094793382=:4792
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>Hi all,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>My '65 Cutlass wont start!&nbsp; I drove it around for about 20 min today and when I got home I decided maybe it could use a tune up.&nbsp; I have never had an HEI engine until I swapped in this 350 which drives great until today.&nbsp; So I was going to pull the rotor and distributor cap&nbsp;to take to a parts store and get a new set since I don't really know what year the engine is.&nbsp; Well the wife came home before I pulled anything (had groceries) all I did was unclamp the cap look under and clamp the distributor cap back on.&nbsp; When I came out I tried to start it and nothing, no trying to turn over or anything.&nbsp; Batt is good, all the ACC and lights work but it &nbsp;just wont start?&nbsp; I checked all the wires and they are all still&nbsp;snug.&nbsp; I am not sure but I was thinking the ignition switch?&nbsp; I don't know much about HEI is there really any big difference?&nbsp; I am stumped.&nbsp; The black box on the drivers side is that the voltage
 regulator?&nbsp; Could that cause a problem maybe it just went out?&nbsp; Sorry if I sound like I dont know anything but I am still new to classic cars and I really appreaciate all the info I have received thus far.&nbsp; Thanks Jeff </DIV></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/50x/*http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail/static/efficiency.html">Yahoo! Mail</a> - 50x more storage than other providers!
- --0-317379382-1094793382=:4792--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 23:36:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition problem?

> So I was going to pull the rotor and distributor cap to take to a parts
store and get a new set since I don't really know what year the engine is.


It doesn't matter. All V8 HEI caps and rotors are the same.


> Well the wife came home before I pulled anything (had groceries) all I did
was unclamp the cap look under and clamp the distributor cap back on.  When
I came out I tried to start it and nothing, no trying to turn over or
anything.  Batt is good, all the ACC and lights work but it  just wont
start?  I checked all the wires and they are all still snug.  I am not sure
but I was thinking the ignition switch?


Since you were going to pull the cap and rotor, are you absolutely sure the
coil wire/ignition wire to the side of the cap is still connected? Could it
be off and you didn't notice it? Also, there are 2 terminals there, one for
the coil/ignition wire and a tach lead. If you only have one wire going
there, you could have accidently plugged it into the tach terminal instead
of the coil/ignition terminal. If you did, the engine won't start. Recheck
that.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 04:56:20 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

Ken,

\No need to apologize. I know you get swamped and I'd hoped the list 
could lend a hand without my bugging you again.

I'll see if I can get this wired up this weekend. If it all falls 
into place, I'll post the info on that web page too, so there'll be 
another source.

Will let you know how it goes.

John
68 442 convt.

>John/List,
>
>I have to humbly apologize for not responding sooner -- with two houses, the
>red Starfire in the shop (the body shop from hell), trouble with Chelsea's
>street RX-7 and my truck leaking oil like the Exxon Valdez on top of 
>the regular
>job as well as the ANG you could say I've been a little preoccupied:-)
>
>Anyway, I also have two of Muscle Motorsports' GM/MSD racing boxes.  The
>latest versions have a clear back plate, it's neat to see just 
>what's inside one
>of these critters.  Mine also have a sticker on them listing what connects
>where:
>
>Large Black -- Ground.  Make sure this is as close to battery ground as you
>can get it, on the race cars I wire up (been doing that too) I try to get this
>one back to the battery itself via a terminal block but without any other
>splices in the wire.  You want this wire to have as little 
>resistance as possible,
>it's that important.
>
>Large Red -- Battery Positive.  If you are installing this in a race car,
>this wire should be controlled by the emergency switch and nothing else.  I
>install this wire just like the Large Black wire above, for the same reasons.
>
>On Chelsea's RX-7 (which uses the most outrageous setup you can imagine --
>one MSD box controlling two MSD coils connected in parallel to the 
>coil trigger
>wires) I ran these two wires to a terminal block and then on to the battery. 
>They were connected electrically all the time and we never had a problem with
>the box.
>
>The small wires:
>First of all, I would use 18 gauge wire for these if you need to lengthen
>them or fabricate a harness.  Here's the color codes as per the MMS 
>sticker (and
>verified by the Nelson Specialties sticker on the 6TN box in Chelsea's RX-7):
>
>Red -- Ignition.  Your original HEI "+" wire would splice to this one.
>White -- Tach signal.  If your box has a male spade lug on one end, that's
>the tach hookup.  If not, this is it.  I actually have a box where someone
>grafted on a Weatherpack connector and the tach wire runs along the 
>outside of the
>box to the spade lug, not recommended.
>Orange -- "+" on coil.
>Black -- "-" on coil.
>
>The next two get slightly confusing:
>Green -- Distributor pickup coil Orange wire.  This would be the pickup in
>the bottom of the HEI, unsure on others.
>Purple -- Distributor pickup coil Green wire.  Same as above.
>I have been told that if you switch these two wires the unit won't function
>at peak performance, never tried it myself.
>
>Here's how the Weatherpack connector is wired up on my box:
>A -- Red
>B -- White
>C -- Black
>D -- Orange
>E -- Green
>F -- Purple
>
>Once I get this back from the List I'm going to save it on my 'puter in case
>anyone needs it in the future.  Again, I apologize for not responding sooner.
>
>Take Care,
>SrA Ken Snyder
>Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 04:59:48 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

I was a bit puzzled ordering the HEI adapter from Jegs as the wording 
wasn't clear. I'll check it this weekend.

John

>I have this same unit in my car, it's a 6tn "nascar" box. Tough as nails I
>tell you since I blew an arc half way across my car when installing it and
>it works fine still.  I'l look at the wires tomarrow and try to get them to
>you. Mine are hooked to an msd distributor though so those wires may ne
>different. That adaptor you have in the pack looks like the plug on the msd
>distributor which you wouldn't use if you use a hei
>
>Allen Schwartz
>Alpine Paving Services, LLC
>mycj@tds.net
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 7:16 PM
>Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?
>
>
>>  John,
>>
>>  > Here's where you get them:
>>  > http://www.musclemotorsports.com/msdigboxgmde.html
>>
>>
>>  Your unit is a MSD 6TN. My instruction sheet covers that unit.
>>
>>
>>  > The connector to the left is for an external rev limiter.
>>
>>
>>  Correct, as per the instructions.
>>
>>
>>  > but I understand that the six
>>  > weatherpacked wires don't exactly correspond to the usual MSD units.
>>  > The purple wire in particular - I believe - doesn't match to the
>>  > purple on the MSD bypass.
>>
>>
>>  I don't know, but if this unit is a MSD 6TN equivalent, I don't know why
>it
>>  isn't the same.
>>
>>
>>  > I may have to bite the bullet and get Nelson to do the harness. I
>>  > guess I'd better beat the bejesus outta the car afterwards to make
>>  > all this HD stuff worth the effort!
>>  >
>>  > John "Why Do Anything The Easy Way?" Livingston
>>
>>
>>  Yeah, by that time, you will have as much in it as if you had bought a
>>  complete new MSD 6A unit, with instructions, from the speed shop.
>>
>>  Milton Schick
>>  1964 442 Cutlass
>>  imp@theriver.com
>>
>>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:22:32 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Headers for the 19__ Delta 88 with SBO ??

>From : 	Alexias jones <alexj01_83@hotmail.com>
Sent : 	Friday, September 10, 2004 1:19 AM
To : 	rocketscience442@hotmail.com

Do u know of any where i can get headers that will fit my car ?
will the headers for a 71-76 88 fit my 88 ?
are the frames the same? thanks
================
Not sure about that
It's a bit out of my area of expertise.
I forwarded this to the email list for their assistance
Someone might be able to reply directly to you with the answer
they will need to know your year of car I suppose.

I also suggest inquiring at say Dick Miller or Kooks [$$$] as found on the 
vendor list at www.442.com.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:03:32 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Seeking a person too!

Anyone know this person:
ebay name "jetboat1972"
email: benthalo70@yahoo.com
Still doing business as of 9/03 on ebay

UN-like Vinny's problem...
they sent me a $100 deposit on an engine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2484732204&ssPageName=STRK:MEAFB:IT

and that's the last I hear from them. ?????
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Does anyone here  know this person?

Jake Vitthuhn
1526 Route 9w
Marlboro, NY  12542-5426

I bought a set of exhaust manifolds from  him  which have not yet  
materilized.

Vinny
68  H/O

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:04:22 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition problem?

At Thursday, 9 September 2004, you wrote:
>>Well the wife came home before I pulled anything (had 
>>groceries) all I did was unclamp the cap look under 
>>and clamp the distributor cap back on.  When I came 
>>out I tried to start it and nothing, no trying to turn 
>over or anything.

Note that symptom: the starter wouldn't even engage and spin. That 
rules out anything having to do with ignition. There should be a 
click and you may notice the interior lights dim just a bit. If you 
hear the click, then most likely, the copper disc inside the starter 
solenoid has a bad spot and it isn't making contact at that spot,
so the starter isn't turned on.

If there is not even a click, then you most likely have a loose connection 
to the starter. This can be dangerous, because starters and the side 
of the engine block by the starter are often covered with old oil 
and grease, which are fire hazards. If you were to jiggle the cables 
going down to the starter and one is really loose down there, it 
could short the battery cable to the engine or starter which would 
result in lots of big sparks. Those COULD ignite any oil/grease in 
the area.

So I strongly recommend that you:
1. DISCONNECT the battery FIRST.
2. Get under the car and examine the wires on the back of the starter 
solenoid; make sure they are not loose or burned apart.

Another possibility is the wire carrying power down to the starter 
solenoid has burned apart. This often occurs if that wire is too 
close to the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipes. 

Another possibility is the firewall connector (if your car has one;
I don't rember whether it does) might be corroded and juice isn't 
getting through to the wire going to the starter solenoid. You can 
grab the harness on the engine side of the firewall and wriggle it 
some.

Another possibility but less likely is your starter solenoid burned 
out. To replace, you have to drop the starter, then unbolt the solenoid 
from the starter itself.

If you ARE getting the click from the starter solenoid but the starter 
doesn't spin, then the copper disc inside the solenoid probably has 
a bad spot. While you can get by with this if you have a long wooden 
stick with which to bang on the solenoid when it won't engage, the 
permanent solution is to replace the solenoid itself.

I would not replace the entire starter/solenoid unless necessary.
Also, I would not give the parts store your old starter/solenoid 
as cores until you have the new assy installed, working properly,
and are satisfied they will continue to work. Once you turn in cores,
they disappear and you almost never get them back.

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
===================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:30:03 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: Arggggg Heater control valve again.

The weather here has been great the last week.  It's been clear and in
the 60s in the mornings.  I've been driving the W-30 to work the last
couple of days and it's been a nice treat from my 91 Maxima beater.  I
got tired of turning the AC on, then getting cold and turning the AC
off, over and over.  So for the first time in months I slowly moved the
Hot/Cold lever to the right.  Immediately I smell coolant.  When I get
to work I find that the heater control valve is leaking internally.

I have owned 2 different 70 442s since 1997 and neither had a heater
control valve that lasted more than 6 months.  Granted I am buying cheap
parts but I can't find good parts.  They all seem to be made by the same
folks.  Would someone kindly tell me what I'm doing wrong.  If it's just
cheap parts, tell me what to buy and I will buy it.


AAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 10:40:44 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: numerous 1968 [and other years?] Trunk Key "D" blanks cheap

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=*the*rocketscientist&since=30&sort=8&rows=25

Dirt cheap
I have many of them
Have it cut to fit your locks
This is the REAL DEAL, with actual Knock-Out plug
Not inferior imitation or later model keys that GM gives you now.
Get the Right Thing.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 11:35:32 -0400
From: "73H/O OLDSRIP" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re: steering gear box rebuilds

Hi Tom,

I had the firm feel conversion and kept the stock 73 ratio am very happy
with it.
The service is quick and Tom is excellent to deal with.
Just paint it before you install it.

Just a note, sometimes he will send you a rebuilt box
off the shelf to save time.
If you definately want your original back
let him know.

Joe Walters
73 H/O



- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Bejma" <tomcb@prplastics.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: steering gear box rebuilds


> Just got off the phone with Tom at Stear and Gear.  Nice guy.  Discount
> honored.  My box will be going out this week.  Definitely a MUST to go
with
> my Global West Upper/Lower Tubular Control Arm/Coil-Over set up.
>
> In case anyone needs the shipping information it's:
>
> Steer and Gear
> 1000 Barnett Rd.
> Columbus, OH  43227
>
> Send UPS/FedEx and include:  Name, address, phone, year, model, quoted
price
> (just in case Tom doesn't open it).
>
> GREAT price for my '69 box.  Even a local company wanted $200 for the same
> job.  Thanks Joe for helping us out.  Will update the list when it gets
> back.
>
> How did yours turn out Joe? (guess I should have asked before I decided to
> go with these guys ;-)
>
> Tom Bejma
> Harrison Twp., MI
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 73H/O OLDSRIP [mailto:jtmwalt@netsync.net]
> > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:18 AM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: steering gear box rebuilds
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Last year at this time I set up a discount for steering gear
> > box rebuilds from a place called Steer & Gear in Coloumbus,
> > Ohio. I just got off the phone with him and our discount is
> > still good.  I am sending him a box for his firm feel
> > conversion and rebuild/reseal.
> > The firm feel conversion is where he changes the torsion rod,
> > (I think thats correct) in the box.
> > He can also change the ratio if you want that.
> >
> > The prices are:
> >
> > Firm feel conversion and rebuild is $125.00, regular price is $165.00
> > The faster ratio and firm feel rebuild is $165.00, regular $ 210.00
> >
> > Call Tom at 1-(800) 253-4327, tell him that your from the
> > Olds internet list.
> >
> > Joe Walters
> > 73 H/O
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 12:03:28 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: GM HD ignition box connections?

Hi, just a quick Q aout the MSD - if the engine runs after the ignition is
turned off, there should be diode installed somewhere... anybody remembers
where to? I had the engine bay cleaned of the extra wires and here I'm with
the new problemito. When the ignition is shut and the shifter is moved
toward the revers switching the reverse lights off the engine will shut
down.
TIA and rgds
Matt
81CS 468ci

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5017
*********************************
