
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 31 2004      Volume 01 : Number 5007



PUI upholstery
RE: Cooling upgrade - Attn Chris
UNBOUNCE: Non-Olds - '72 GP Hurst SSJ FS
Re: PUI upholstery
Cooling
Mufflers and Exhaust
Date:   Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:08:31 -0400
Recall:
Olds Auction
rear convertible window
FRAUD ALERT: Please remove these email addresses AT ONCE
Re: rear convertible window
Re: 66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???
RE: Piston position vs crank angle
66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???
Re: PUI upholstery
RE: Cooling upgrade - Attn Chris
RE: Piston position vs crank angle
Re: 2004 Nationals (and tic toc tach!)
Re: Mufflers and Exhaust
Re: Interior cost

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 01:37:29 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: PUI upholstery

Hello-

To the other poor sap who bought PUI upholstery, please consider returning 
it.  I recently purchased the rear bench for my '70 Cutlass Supreme and the 
covers they sent me were HORRIFIC!  There was a glaring error in the sewing 
on the seatback that someone had lightly circled in white crayone.  The same 
seatback was not even complete: it was lacking the heavy cord at the bottom 
the hog rings secure to.

I requested Year One to send another set.   After two weeks on backorder, 
they arrived.  I installed them and it seems they have too much fabric in 
the corners.   I've noted that the vinyl grain doesn't match quite right and 
the contour lines sewn into the covers don't look quite right. I'm not a 
stickler for originality but I could recognise that these covers were 
substandard.  Especially when I saw some fantastic repro covers at the 2004 
Nats.

On digest mode
Scott White
93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 04:04:56 -0400
From: jp <limitedattention@mac.com>
Subject: RE: Cooling upgrade - Attn Chris

>Flexalite -- been there tried that.

Hi Chris...

What was your experience with the Flexalite and why was it disappointing?

Thanks,

jp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 06:52:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Non-Olds - '72 GP Hurst SSJ FS

Not on the list, respond to Vvics442@aol.com if interested. Even though
it's not an Olds, it has the Hurst connection and is certainly
interesting.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Vvics442@aol.com
Subject: rare car!

I have a 1 owner fully documented, all original,#s matching Hurst SSJ  (grand 
Prix) , only 60 of these cars were made by the Hurst Corp. in 1972.   This is 
an unbelievable Calif car.  If anyone out there has interest in purchase 
please email me privately!   thanks,  Vic

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 06:53:57 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: PUI upholstery

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004, Scott White wrote:
> I requested Year One to send another set.   After two weeks on backorder, 
> they arrived.  I installed them and it seems they have too much fabric in 
> the corners.   I've noted that the vinyl grain doesn't match quite right and 
> the contour lines sewn into the covers don't look quite right. I'm not a 
> stickler for originality but I could recognise that these covers were 
> substandard.  Especially when I saw some fantastic repro covers at the 2004 
> Nats.

Any idea of the maker/source for the fantastic ones?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 07:45:40 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Cooling

Here is what you need for a bullet proof cooling system:

1. Be Cool radiator
2. GM factory fan shroud
3. Fan Clutch
4. 7 blade GM factory fan
5. Aftermarket trans cooler - I like TCI coolers
6. 180 degree high flow thermostat

You will need a 4 core top plate as well. If your car has a 3 core in
it, the bottom brackets will need to be "tweaked" wider for the bigger
radiator. 

I run 30% anti freeze, 70% water, and add in 2 bottles of Watter Wetter.

Mr car has a warmed over 455 and 3.91 gears. I never get above 190
degress no matter how hot it gets.

Best way to find the parts in on E-Bay

Paul Tumolo, Principal
Edusult Performance Systems
6 Clark Street
Medway, MA 02053
Office: 508-482-0184
Mobile: 508-789-8191
E-mail: ptumolo@comcast.net
Website: www.edusult.com
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 07:51:01 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Mufflers and Exhaust

I just installed a Torque tech 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system on my
442. The fit was absolutely perfect: tight to the floors, and the tips
exited perfectly. I used the DynoMax Super Turbo long body mufflers, P/N
# 17749. There is no cross over pipe.

The system is loud - rumbles at idle, and really wails at WOT.

Much louder than the old 2.25" compression bent system with the shorter
case DynoMax Super Turbos.

I may add resonators to the system to tone it down a bit.

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:08:31 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: Date:   Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:08:31 -0400

http://www.hawksauction.com/Cars.htm

I am not associated at all, just thought someone might be interested in some
fine examples of Olds History.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:08:50 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: Recall:

Tom Bejma would like to recall the message, "".

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:09:07 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: Olds Auction

http://www.hawksauction.com/Cars.htm

I am not associated at all, just thought someone might be interested in some
fine examples of Olds History.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 04:50:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: JEFFREY LISLE <jeffslisle@yahoo.com>
Subject: rear convertible window

- --0-1701322178-1093953015=:22160
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi all,
 
I have a '65 Cutlass convertible and this summer my rear plastic window went from clear to brown and un-clear, I cant see a thing out of it, so most of the time I have to put the top down or un-zip the window to see when I drive it.  Anybody have any helpful hints to make my plastic window clear again, its not real real bad but its getting there.  Also does anybody know of a place that make fiberglass cowl hoods for the '65, the ones that use the stock hinges?  Thanks for the help, Jeff


		
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
- --0-1701322178-1093953015=:22160
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>Hi all,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have a '65 Cutlass convertible and this summer my rear plastic window went from clear to brown and un-clear, I cant see a thing out of it, so&nbsp;most of the time I have to put the top down or un-zip the window to see when&nbsp;I drive it.&nbsp; Anybody have any helpful hints to make my plastic window clear again, its not real real bad but its getting there.&nbsp;&nbsp;Also does anybody&nbsp;know of a place that make fiberglass cowl hoods&nbsp;for the '65, the ones that use the stock hinges?&nbsp; Thanks for the help, Jeff</DIV></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/100/*http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail/static/efficiency.html">New and Improved Yahoo! Mail</a> - 100MB free storage!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:39:07 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FRAUD ALERT: Please remove these email addresses AT ONCE

Postmasters:

These wizards are using the following addresses to perpetrate the Nigerian 
Fake Cashier's check scam.

sealand_delivery@your-house.com
carlinkautos2004@yahoo.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This is like the 3rd warning I have given you Yahoos [heh] to KILL THIS 
PINHEAD'S ACCOUNT

BECAUSE YOUHAVE NOT COMPLIED AND HAVE NOT YET KILLED HIS E-MAIL ADDRESS, I 
AM SUBMITTING YAHOO TO THE FBI TODAY AS AN ACCOMPLICE TO THIS MAN'S SCAMS.

Is that clear enough for you?



Here's what I got from him today:
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
>From : 	JAMES COLE <carlink_autos2004@yahoo.com>
Sent : 	Tuesday, August 31, 2004 5:16 AM
To : 	RocketScience442@hotmail.com
Subject : 	PLEASE GET BACK TO ME ASAP WE ARE HAVING PROBLEMS HERE......


	| 		| 		| 	Inbox
DEAR Chris Witt,
       HOE ARE YOU TODAY I HAVE TRIED IN THE PAST TO GET YOU ON THE PHONE TO 
SPEAK WITH MY CUSTOMER BUT YOU REFUSED TO PICK-UP THE PHONE PLEASE GET BACK 
TO ME IF YOU HAVE SEND THE FUNDS TO THE AGENT AS MY CUSTOMER NOW SAID THAT I 
PLANNED WITH YOU TO STEAL HIS MONEY PLEASE I AM INTO SOME KIND OF PROBLEM 
FOR YOUR SILENT TRY AND GET BACK TO ME SO THAT IF THERE IS ANY PROBLEM I 
WILL LET HIM KNOW ON TIME BEFORE THINGS GET WORSE PLEASE SO THAT HE WILL 
FINE AN ALTERNATIVE PLANS TO BUY HIS ENGINE ELSE WHERE.
      I WAIT TO HEAR FROM YOU SO THAT IF YOU HAVE SENT THE FUNDS TO THE 
AGENT I WILL NOW KNOW WHO TO HOLD FOR ALL THIS DELAY.
THANKS AND GOD BLESS.
MR.JAMES
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

8/29/04
They have already sent me a fake check for $11,500. Now they want "their 
money"

Yahoo, I have alerted you guys at LEAST once to this guy's scam, why is his 
account still active? Are you guys looking to be accused of collaborating 
with the scammers? How about I take this to the press and see how you look 
then?

I have already submitted this instance to the FBI in Houston under the 
internet crimes reporting procedure. I have also sent the untouched $11,500 
check to the FBI office in Houston, TX for their analysis. Let's not add 
yahoo.com and your-house.com to the list of _cooperating_ SCAMMERS.

I have been jerking around the scammer, while providing them plenty of 
clues, if their grasp of English were sufficient to notice, that I am on to 
them already. Still they are phoning me and sending emails requesting "their 
money" Latest phone call from the strangely Nigerian-sounding yet 
White-Northern-European-named "James Cole" was Friday 8/27.

Please look into the activities on these accounts and act accordingly. By 
that, I mean:
1) close down these accounts, and
2) write to every person they were scamming and alert them to the nature of 
this scam. I suggest you direct the victims to the following web sites, 
which a simple Google search of "nigerian fake check scam" provided:

http://www.wired.com/news/culture/0,1284,56829,00.html
http://www.channel3000.com/money/3318567/detail.html
http://www.freemaninstitute.com/419.htm
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/nigerian-scams.htm

Please act responsibly... NOW.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



>From: james cole <carlinkautos2004@yahoo.com>
>To: Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: STILL WAITING TO HEAR FROM YOU................
>Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 05:42:09 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>
>Christopher Witt <rocketscience442@hotmail.com> wrote:1) where's my 
>apology?
>
>2) Where do I send the extra money to?
>----------------------
>Chris Witt
>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>Lansing MI 48911
>
>RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
>Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
>===============================
>
>
>
>
> >From: james cole
> >To: Christopher Witt
> >Subject: STILL AWAITING UPDATE.
> >Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 02:55:32 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Dear Witt,
> >
> >I am still awaiting your update on the agent's payment and the purchased
> >item. I need you to understand that i am really going through a tough 
>time
> >here with my customer's wife, who has been checking on me almost every
> >time, because by now we are supposed to have concluded this transaction,
> >since you have recieved the check payment.
> >My customer has reconfirmed from the issuing bank that the check has been
> >paid out to you, and this is beginning to make them very uncomfortable.
> >Without missing words, i must tell you that am really getting very
> >unconfortable too, because my client has been putting so much pressure on
> >me as he needs an update to know how and when the purchased property will
> >be.
> >
> >Please let me know the status of this transaction, i understand that you
> >are aware and you know very well that this delay is not good for my own
> >bussiness.
> >Now they are requesting that their money be returned back to them if we 
>are
> >no longer interested in selling anymore. Please let me know now.......
> >
> >Kind regards
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Christopher Witt wrote:
> >carlinkautos2004@yahoo.com
> >
> >OK, I got the check cashed yesterday
> >I will be bringing the racing engine into town later today for shipping
> >preparations.
> >
> >The bank says I might have to wait a week or three to ensure that the 
>funds
> >clear ok from the cashier's check.
> >
> >----------------------
> >Chris Witt
> >1303 W. Miller Rd.
> >Lansing MI 48911
> >
> >RocketScience442@hotmail.com
> >
> >Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> >Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
> >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: james cole
> > >To: Christopher Witt
> > >Subject: ITEM....RACING ENGINE/I WAIT FOR THE INFORMATION
> >ASAP.............
> > >Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 05:01:23 -0700 (PDT)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >DEAR Christopher Witt,
> > > They said that agent is not parmanently based there in your
> > >country, due the nature of their shipping jobs, and right now the agent
> >is
> > >almost through with all other jobs that he has over there in your
> >country,
> > >so it is very important that we speed up this business much faster so
> >that
> > >we can meet up with the time frame that the agent will be spending 
>there
> >to
> > >conclude on other pick-up / shipping appointments that they have in 
>their
> > >different places.
> > >
> > >Unfortunately there had already been so much delay in the past, so my
> > >customer is getting very worried because he needs this payment sent to
> >the
> > >agent earlier enough, so that he would be sure that the agent would 
>stay
> > >back and start making arrangements to finish all the customer's own
> >pick-up
> > >/ shipping jobs before he leaves your country.
> > >
> > >They have instructed that you try make the payment to the agent earlier
> > >enough today, because as the situation is right now, it is most 
>important
> > >that we make a financial comittment with the agent, even if it means 
>that
> > >we have to make a half part payment first, so that we will have a 100%
> > >guarantee that the customer has finally secured a booking with the 
>agent
> > >for their required services.
> > >
> > >We need you to go and transfer that payment to agent early enough and
> > >immediately notify the agent and forward the payment transfer details 
>to
> > >agent via his email that i have given you below.
> > >
> > >AGENT'S EMAIL - ( sealand_delivery@your-house.com. )
> > >
> > >Please do remember that you are also required to forward the agent's
> > >payment transfer details to this my own email too, this is very 
>importand
> > >for office records and as evidence to show the customer that payment 
>has
> > >been made to the agent. You know how these agents do behave sometimes. 
>I
> > >would be expecting your mail later today with all the details.
> > >
> > >Thanks.
> > >MR.JAMES
> > >
> > > wrote:
> > >OK, I should be able to get that check for $13,300 cashed on Monday.
> > >Then I can work on getting your excess sent back.
> > >I might have to send your excess back to him in the form of a cashier's
> > >check. I have one for $6500 and another for a similar amount.
> > >
> > >Say, what parts exactly was I supposed to get ready for shipment?
> > >I cannot recall... please refresh my memory, so I can start boxing up
> >your
> > >items.
> > >----------------------
> > >Chris Witt
> > >1303 W. Miller Rd.
> > >Lansing MI 48911
> > >
> > >RocketScience442@hotmail.com
> > >
> > >Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> > >Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
> > >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: james cole
> > > >To: Christopher Witt
> > > >Subject: THE INFORMATION YOU REQUIRED...........
> > > >Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 14:08:55 -0700 (PDT)
> > > >
> > > >http://www.crimes-of-persuasion.com/Nigerian/names_C.htm
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Dear Witt,
> > > >
> > > >NAME - CHARLES. C. HARRIS
> > > >ADDRESS - 702 N Sam Houston Parkway East,
> > > >Houston 77060, Texas USA.
> > > > I wait to hear from you as the agent is waiting to start
> > > >work.
> > > >regards,
> > > >JAMES
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's 
>FREE!
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Do you Yahoo!?
> >New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:48:46 -0400
From: OldsEnuf@webtv.net (Mark Sopp)
Subject: Re: rear convertible window

Maguiars makes a plexiglas cleaner that I used on my 67 Supreme that
worked wonders...

$6-7 bucks a bottle

Markas

http://community.webtv.net/vfquick442/My1970442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 06:48:31 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: Re: 66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???

George,

In the last 2 years we have bought and sold 3 '67 Supremes, 330 with 
California air pumps.  2 were old ladies 1 owner cars, one a 2 owner non 
molested.  All had the long oil fill tubes, seemingly to clear the air pump 
mounting bracket. Looks like your assumption is correct.

Joe Varley
      AZ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:18:10 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle

From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle

Chris

I don't think that is correct. The compression height
shouldn't matter as it's constant, at both TDC and 30 deg off TDC it adds
the same amount.
=====================
Agreed... on the CH part being irrelevant anyhow



I made up this sheet a week or two ago when this question was asked
and came up with .913"  Eric
================
That cannot be right

I have no way handy to share a picture of what I did to do the math
I guess I can email a photo of the dwg to those that need it.

I basically ignored the CH, that was in there only to calculate the deck 
height of whatever engine the user was working on later. I took piston 
position from wrist pin position, which is easy to calculate, it moves in 
one direction only, along the Y axis.

I arranged my engine with wrist pin above crank centerline
X axis L to R, Y axis up and down, both 0's at the crank centerline

I drew the example crank position at about 30' CW ATDC
Thus, the rod is shown with wrist pin directly above the crank center 
[origin of axes]
and its lower end of course is at the crank throw journal, in the top right 
quadrant.

I called the angle of the crank "alpha", starting at TDC and measuring 
positive to the CW

Thus, the positon of the center of the lower end of the rod [the crank pin 
center] is:
X= [throw] * sin[alpha]
Y= [throw] * cos[alpha
Couldn't be much easier. "Throw" is of course half the engine's stroke.
These values appear to all be right dead on when you look at the plot,
pretty sure that math is OK.

Now we know exactly where the rod lower end is for any value of [alpha] 
crank angle.

Maybe you failed to convert your crank position [in degrees] to radians 
before taking the sin or cos?

Anyhow, the rod top end [wrist pin] is now simple as pi() :-)
That triangle solves thusly:
I called the angle of the rod w.r.t. the crank-to-wrist-pin centerline [my Y 
axis] "beta"
Since the X positon of the lower end of the rod is known, as is the 
hypotneuse of the triangle [the rod itself], the rod angle beta is merely 
the inverse sine of the value (X/Rod_Length)

er, oops, I used ATAN instead of ASIN, just fixed that to find the new 
piston positon at 30' is 0.369"
Not much diff at that particular crank position.

Thus, the other angle of that triangle is 90-beta in degrees- useful later 
for calculating the angle between rod and crank-center-to-crank-pin line... 
but I digress.

with rod angle beta known... calculating the Y side of the triangle which 
has the Rod as the hypotenuse is simply:
Y= Rod_L * Cos[beta]

Now, the positon of the wrist pin is totally known
It is above the origin by the sum of [crankpin  Y coordinate + Y measure of 
the rod triangle]
E.g., for the crank at 30' ATDC, crank pin is at [1.030,1.859]
The Rod triangle Y side measures 6.656 inches
The sum of the two is 8.514
Which is 0.346 less than the sum of [Crank throw + Rod length] which is of 
course the Y positon of the top end of the rod when crank is at TDC.

Therefore, the piston is 0.346" down from its TDC positon when the crank is 
at 30' from TDC [either direction]

Of course, an actual engine typically has oh 0.030" of cylinder above the 
piston top when it is at TDC, and another 0.040" of vacant space above that 
[the hole in the gasket] before the location of the head surface becomes an 
issue.

[Note For the crank angles of alpha >90 degrees, the formula shows the 
crankpin Y coordinate as negative, or below the X-axis, as well it should. 
The plots of piston positon vs crank angle look just right to me]

Now, I went by feeble MEMORY, and the 455 rod length might not be EXACTLY 
6.735", I know the 425 is like 7.000 +/- 0.002, and the 455 is "about" 6 & 
3/4 with a tape measure, and the feeble memory says the exact figure is 
6.735 +/- 0.002" per the CSM's.

How's that?
0.913" ??? No way!!!
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:28:11 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???

From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: 66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???

List!

I have gotten a request for oil filler tubes trough other 66 bits that I am
selling on evilbay. Now I am puzzled. What's special about CA oil filler
tubes? I sense some heat. The CA cars had the air injection! May these
filler tubes be the SAME than the tri-carb pieces to clear some of the air
induction stuff???

TIA, George
================
yessir, AZ and CA cars pre-68 typically have AC, and those engines got the 
Long Oil Fill tube that the 66 W30 and tri-carb engines need. Oh damn, the 
secret's out, how will I ever sell any replicate long tubes now?
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:31:23 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: PUI upholstery

>
> Any idea of the maker/source for the fantastic ones?
>
Yes, it's my understanding that the only competing company, ICP, has gone
under?
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 07:28:28 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: Cooling upgrade - Attn Chris

The fan worked as advertised, in that it changed shape as the rpm rose, but
the car still ran hot. Like 200-210 in normal usage. That's just close
enough to the limit of say 220-230 to make me untrustworthy of the setup on
a hot day. Which of course, is when you'd like to use a convertible. 

On reflection, it could have been an old radiator that created the
condition, so perhaps I'm being too hard on flexalite. If others have
countervailing positive experiences, go with the majority. 

What I'd really need to do for a proper test is go get another one and test
it with the current new rad and factory shroud in place of the clutch fan. 

But of course the car runs cool now and looks factory so I'm leaving it
alone. By cool I mean it runs around 190 and gets up to 210 once in a while.


Cheers,
cf 


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of jp
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 1:05 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Cooling upgrade - Attn Chris

>Flexalite -- been there tried that.

Hi Chris...

What was your experience with the Flexalite and why was it disappointing?

Thanks,

jp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:16:25 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle

As I posted yesterday, I used the stroke for the throw in my
calculations....

Eric


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Christopher Witt
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 9:18 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle


From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle

Chris

I don't think that is correct. The compression height
shouldn't matter as it's constant, at both TDC and 30 deg off TDC it adds
the same amount.
=====================
Agreed... on the CH part being irrelevant anyhow



I made up this sheet a week or two ago when this question was asked
and came up with .913"  Eric
================
That cannot be right

I have no way handy to share a picture of what I did to do the math
I guess I can email a photo of the dwg to those that need it.

I basically ignored the CH, that was in there only to calculate the deck
height of whatever engine the user was working on later. I took piston
position from wrist pin position, which is easy to calculate, it moves in
one direction only, along the Y axis.

I arranged my engine with wrist pin above crank centerline
X axis L to R, Y axis up and down, both 0's at the crank centerline

I drew the example crank position at about 30' CW ATDC
Thus, the rod is shown with wrist pin directly above the crank center
[origin of axes]
and its lower end of course is at the crank throw journal, in the top right
quadrant.

I called the angle of the crank "alpha", starting at TDC and measuring
positive to the CW

Thus, the positon of the center of the lower end of the rod [the crank pin
center] is:
X= [throw] * sin[alpha]
Y= [throw] * cos[alpha
Couldn't be much easier. "Throw" is of course half the engine's stroke.
These values appear to all be right dead on when you look at the plot,
pretty sure that math is OK.

Now we know exactly where the rod lower end is for any value of [alpha]
crank angle.

Maybe you failed to convert your crank position [in degrees] to radians
before taking the sin or cos?

Anyhow, the rod top end [wrist pin] is now simple as pi() :-)
That triangle solves thusly:
I called the angle of the rod w.r.t. the crank-to-wrist-pin centerline [my Y
axis] "beta"
Since the X positon of the lower end of the rod is known, as is the
hypotneuse of the triangle [the rod itself], the rod angle beta is merely
the inverse sine of the value (X/Rod_Length)

er, oops, I used ATAN instead of ASIN, just fixed that to find the new
piston positon at 30' is 0.369"
Not much diff at that particular crank position.

Thus, the other angle of that triangle is 90-beta in degrees- useful later
for calculating the angle between rod and crank-center-to-crank-pin line...
but I digress.

with rod angle beta known... calculating the Y side of the triangle which
has the Rod as the hypotenuse is simply:
Y= Rod_L * Cos[beta]

Now, the positon of the wrist pin is totally known
It is above the origin by the sum of [crankpin  Y coordinate + Y measure of
the rod triangle]
E.g., for the crank at 30' ATDC, crank pin is at [1.030,1.859]
The Rod triangle Y side measures 6.656 inches
The sum of the two is 8.514
Which is 0.346 less than the sum of [Crank throw + Rod length] which is of
course the Y positon of the top end of the rod when crank is at TDC.

Therefore, the piston is 0.346" down from its TDC positon when the crank is
at 30' from TDC [either direction]

Of course, an actual engine typically has oh 0.030" of cylinder above the
piston top when it is at TDC, and another 0.040" of vacant space above that
[the hole in the gasket] before the location of the head surface becomes an
issue.

[Note For the crank angles of alpha >90 degrees, the formula shows the
crankpin Y coordinate as negative, or below the X-axis, as well it should.
The plots of piston positon vs crank angle look just right to me]

Now, I went by feeble MEMORY, and the 455 rod length might not be EXACTLY
6.735", I know the 425 is like 7.000 +/- 0.002, and the 455 is "about" 6 &
3/4 with a tape measure, and the feeble memory says the exact figure is
6.735 +/- 0.002" per the CSM's.

How's that?
0.913" ??? No way!!!
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 12:43:47 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2004 Nationals (and tic toc tach!)

- -------------------------------1093970627
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

 
In a message dated 8/30/04 11:21:38 PM Pacific Daylight  Time, 
scottwhite98@hotmail.com writes:

I come  back the next day and it turns out the other guy never came back.    
I'm  irritated 'cuz I'm REALLY interested in the tach and my  pocketbook was 
relatively fat.  I could have it if only I could find  someone to take that 
blasted gauge pod!  And then, the clouds broke  and a beam of light hit a man 
approaching the tent. The light guided him  my way. It dropped him right in 
front of the gauge pod.  Turns out  this heaven sent stranger was not the 
unnamed first interested party. Out  of the blue, on Saturday, two rallye 
pack half-owners found each other. It  was as close to an oldsmomiracle as 
one can get.  Anyway, I stole the  Tach/clock for $400.

I still sigh when I see it.

Does anyone  have a clue on how to hook this thing up right?



Scott,
       Hopefully you got the special shielded  wire with the tach, and it had 
the in-line fuse attached as well.  If you  got all of the above, you will 
need to run the shielded wire through the  firewall to the coil, then ground the 
short wire to a ground inside the back of  the dash.  You hook up one wire to 
the light spade connector then bolt  everything in.  Pretty simple really.  
If you haven't hooked up the  gauge pod yet, you will need to reconfigure the 
wiring from the stock  form.  I have the wiring diagram somewhere and may be 
able to scan it and  send it to you, if the scanner will cooperate.  Don't be 
surprised if your  tach doesn't operate, or operates erratically.  Remember it's 
a 30 year old  piece of electrical components and may be due for an overhaul. 
 Mine always  seemed to operate normally up to a certain RPM, then hang up.  
Common  problem with them.  
Good luck,
Steve D

- -------------------------------1093970627
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
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e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 8/30/04 11:21:38 PM Pacific Daylight=20
Time,&nbsp;scottwhite98@hotmail.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>I come=20
  back the next day and it turns out the other guy never came back.&nbsp;&nb=
sp;=20
  <BR>I'm&nbsp; irritated 'cuz I'm REALLY interested in the tach and my=20
  pocketbook was <BR>relatively fat.&nbsp; I could have it if only I could f=
ind=20
  someone to take that <BR>blasted gauge pod!&nbsp; And then, the clouds bro=
ke=20
  and a beam of light hit a man <BR>approaching the tent. The light guided h=
im=20
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t=20
  this heaven sent stranger was not the <BR>unnamed first interested party.=20=
Out=20
  of the blue, on Saturday, two rallye <BR>pack half-owners found each other=
. It=20
  was as close to an oldsmomiracle as <BR>one can get.&nbsp; Anyway, I stole=
 the=20
  Tach/clock for $400.<BR><BR>I still sigh when I see it.<BR><BR>Does anyone=
=20
  have a clue on how to hook this thing up right?<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></D=
IV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Scott,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Hopefully you got the special shie=
lded=20
wire with the tach, and it had the in-line fuse attached as well.&nbsp; If y=
ou=20
got all of the above, you will need to run the shielded wire through the=20
firewall to the coil, then ground the short wire to a ground inside the back=
 of=20
the dash.&nbsp; You hook up one wire to the light spade connector&nbsp;then=20=
bolt=20
everything in.&nbsp; Pretty simple really.&nbsp; If you haven't hooked up th=
e=20
gauge pod yet, you will need to reconfigure the wiring from the stock=20
form.&nbsp; I have the wiring diagram somewhere and may be able to scan it a=
nd=20
send it to you, if the scanner will cooperate.&nbsp; Don't be surprised if y=
our=20
tach doesn't operate, or operates erratically.&nbsp; Remember it's a 30 year=
 old=20
piece of electrical components and may be due for an overhaul.&nbsp; Mine al=
ways=20
seemed to operate normally up to a certain RPM, then hang up.&nbsp; Common=20
problem with them.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>Good luck,</DIV>
<DIV>Steve D</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1093970627--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:56:11 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Mufflers and Exhaust

Paul,

> There is no cross over pipe.
>
> The system is loud - rumbles at idle, and really wails at WOT.
>
> I may add resonators to the system to tone it down a bit.


If you have someone weld in either a H pipe or X pipe, the loudness will be
reduced.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:54:12 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Interior cost

> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 20:57:48 -0400
> From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: Interior cost
> 
> Truthfully, after watching the guy do the vinyl, I 
> think I'd be tempted to do it myself if I had to do it again.  

I agree. I had no prior experience with recovering seats, and I 
was able to easily install the seat covers on both the buckets 
and the rear bench with no problems. The buckets took about a 
half day each, and the bench took about a half day.

> There are some tricks of the trade, like covering
> the foam padding with a trash bag to get the vinyl to go on 
> easier

Yes, that really helps the seat covers to easily slide across the 
foam. Otherwise, it's a real pain to work the seat covers into place. 
I ended up leaving the plastic sheeting under the seat covers - I lived 
on the Gulf Coast at the time, and I figured it would be good insurance 
against getting caught in the rain with the top down. It's amazing how 
much water the seat cushion can hold, and it's no fun to drive around 
with a wet butt.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix AZ

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5007
*********************************
