
oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 22 2004    Volume 01 : Number 5029



First post to the list for a new Olds owner
Re: First post to the list for a new Olds owner
Re: First post to the list for a new Olds owner
Headliners
Olds power windows
Re: First post to the list for a new Olds owner
Re: 50 + 50 != 100
Another list new-be
50 + 50 != 100
tips for removing brake booster?
Re: 50 + 50 != 100
Re: tips for removing brake booster?
Re: Another list new-be
Window Sticker info
Re: Window Sticker info
tips for removing brake booster?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:12:44 -0400
From: "Daniel Burk" <dan@ws6transam.org>
Subject: First post to the list for a new Olds owner

Hi All,
I just thought I'd drop in on the list, which I found on a hot tip from
Chris Witt. I've bought myself a semi-rough but running '65 Olds F85 and was
hoping there would be some folks on this list who might be able to help
share their Olds knowledge.

FWIW, Here's a few pictures of the ol'girl.
http://www.ws6transam.org/f85

Basically, the car was in a front-end collision, and the interior is shot. I
ripped out the cheap black carpet this afternoon and the seat anchors came
out with it. The floors, though not fully rusted through, are mushy where
they are supposed to be spot welded together. In addition, I can start to
see sunlight shining from the rear corners of the floorpan near the rear
wheel wells. Luckily the 330 engine runs nice, though it needs new
accessories due to bent pullies and non-original power steering pump.

I've basically got ten months to turn it into a driver, for in July I hope
to present it to my wife for our thirteenth wedding anniversary. I'm going
to forget about doing a full re-paint for next year, and just concentrate on
getting the interior back in shape. I'll probably do a quick spray of the
front to sort-of match the back half of the car, but I want to keep plans
for returning the car to the original Nocturne Mist color, along with a
white top.

Since it's a rather worn exmple of an F85, I think I will re-do the interior
in white, with the optional 442 vertical one-inch stripe pleats on the
seats, along with a floor console shifter for the TH350 automatic that's in
there. Is there anyone on the list here that might have some spare parts
laying about? My primary concern at this point is sorting out the interior,
and getting the engine reliable with some properly aligned accessories.

Dan Burk
Haslett, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:15:57 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: First post to the list for a new Olds owner

Dan,

> Here's a few pictures of the ol'girl.
> http://www.ws6transam.org/f85


I looked at the pictures.


> Luckily the 330 engine runs nice, though it needs new
> accessories due to bent pullies and non-original power steering pump.


Are you absolutely sure the engine is a 330? The reason I ask is the
thermostat housing isn't typical '65 with the curved metal nipple. Instead,
she should have a complete curved by-pass hose. Also, the pulleys are
definitely wrong. I can see it off the water pump. What's on there, a 3
groove with the alternator running on the middle groove? The alternator
should be on the rear groove of a 2 groove pulley without AC. The power
steering pump is late '60s with the attending mounting brackets. I really
wasn't sure that a late '60s power steering pump would fit in a '64-'65
without hitting the power steering gear. That's specific to a '64-'65 with
their shorter engine compartment. Since you said that you have a TH350
instead of the 2-speed Jetaway, could the engine be a 350 that came with the
transmission? Look on the flat deck of the top of the engine block above and
behind the water pump but in front of the intake manifold. There's a casing
number there. Write down that number and then go to
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/oldsfaq/ofblk.htm#Blocks
and schroll down to Small Block Identification. For a '65 330, you should
have 1 - 381917. If you don't, you have something else, which may explain
the pulley mismatch.


> Since it's a rather worn exmple of an F85, I think I will re-do the
interior
> in white, with the optional 442 vertical one-inch stripe pleats on the
> seats,


?? I don't remember that??


> along with a floor console shifter for the TH350 automatic that's in
there.


It should be a 2-speed Jetaway, unless somebody put a TH350 in to replace
the Jetaway.


> Is there anyone on the list here that might have some spare parts laying
about?


Maybe. It all depends on what you might need.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass, Thunder Lizard
1964 Cutlass that needs a new engine
1965 F-85 4-door daily driver
1965 Vista Cruiser needing a lot of work but runs fine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 06:05:14 -0400
From: "Pat Swanton \"swanny\"" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: First post to the list for a new Olds owner

Welcome. I personally don't have any knowledge of the '60s era but , many
here do. Good luck, great to have you aboard.

Cheers
Pat Swanton
Winchester NH
1978 Cutlass Supreme
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Burk" <dan@ws6transam.org>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 12:12 AM
Subject: First post to the list for a new Olds owner


> Hi All,
> I just thought I'd drop in on the list, which I found on a hot tip from
> Chris Witt. I've bought myself a semi-rough but running '65 Olds F85 and
was
> hoping there would be some folks on this list who might be able to help
> share their Olds knowledge.
>
> FWIW, Here's a few pictures of the ol'girl.
> http://www.ws6transam.org/f85
>
> Basically, the car was in a front-end collision, and the interior is shot.
I
> ripped out the cheap black carpet this afternoon and the seat anchors came
> out with it. The floors, though not fully rusted through, are mushy where
> they are supposed to be spot welded together. In addition, I can start to
> see sunlight shining from the rear corners of the floorpan near the rear
> wheel wells. Luckily the 330 engine runs nice, though it needs new
> accessories due to bent pullies and non-original power steering pump.
>
> I've basically got ten months to turn it into a driver, for in July I hope
> to present it to my wife for our thirteenth wedding anniversary. I'm going
> to forget about doing a full re-paint for next year, and just concentrate
on
> getting the interior back in shape. I'll probably do a quick spray of the
> front to sort-of match the back half of the car, but I want to keep plans
> for returning the car to the original Nocturne Mist color, along with a
> white top.
>
> Since it's a rather worn exmple of an F85, I think I will re-do the
interior
> in white, with the optional 442 vertical one-inch stripe pleats on the
> seats, along with a floor console shifter for the TH350 automatic that's
in
> there. Is there anyone on the list here that might have some spare parts
> laying about? My primary concern at this point is sorting out the
interior,
> and getting the engine reliable with some properly aligned accessories.
>
> Dan Burk
> Haslett, MI
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 07:19:05 -0400
From: "Paul Tumolo" <ptumolo@comcast.net>
Subject: Headliners

I start and finish at the upholstery shop.......I have done 2
headliners, and there is some skill required to make it look
professional.

Paul Tumolo
1970 442 Hardtop
OCA # 31967

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 09:22:47 -0500
From: SKammerer@alberto.com
Subject: Olds power windows

Return Receipt
                                                                                
    Your       Olds power windows                                               
    document:                                                                   
                                                                                
    was        Steve Kammerer/MP/US/Alberto                                     
    received                                                                    
    by:                                                                         
                                                                                
    at:        09/21/2004 09:27:04 AM                                           
                                                                                

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 10:01:21 -0500
From: SKammerer@alberto.com
Subject: Re: First post to the list for a new Olds owner

Dan,

Regarding the engine compartment,  the radiator is not the original design, and
the radiator upper hold down is missing.  This also could indicate a later
engine.  Water pump shaft length varied by year/application.  POSSIBLY to allow
a longer water pump, a different radiator may have been installed.  More likely
it was replaced due to the collision.

The engine/trans is probaly not a big issue unless you are concerned about
originality.  You should find out what engine/trans you have so if repairs or
maintenance are necesary, you can obtain the correct parts and or settings.  If
it is a new enough engine ('72 up, I believe) it would also have hardened valve
seats which would make unleaded gas a non-issue.  An older engine would have the
forged steel crank.

At the very least the top of the radiator should be secured to ensure the
radiator will not move and contact the fan.

I have the vertical seam upholstery in my '65 Cutlass.  I think it is much more
attractive.  I was an option on the Culass line, not just the 442.

I have some '65 Cutlass parts, let everyone know what parts you want.

I think for my anniversary, my wife would want me to sell some of my Olds...

Enjoy your new car!

Steve K.




Hi All,
I just thought I'd drop in on the list, which I found on a hot tip from
Chris Witt. I've bought myself a semi-rough but running '65 Olds F85 and was
hoping there would be some folks on this list who might be able to help
share their Olds knowledge.

FWIW, Here's a few pictures of the ol'girl.
http://www.ws6transam.org/f85

.....
Dan Burk
Haslett, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 14:54:31 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 50 + 50 != 100

I can't keep quiet anymore. The following is a gross oversimplification that
ignores the effects of the elastic and inelastic qualities of collisions and
how that influences kinetic energy transfer, all contained in the laws of
mechanics in physics.


> essentially yes, if you had a perfect meeting.  The 2 vehicles
> mash up against an imaginary dividing line, which is just
> the same as hitting in immovable object.
> > Crash at 50 into an identical weight
> > going 50 the  opposite way, is the same for you as crashing
> > into a "brick wall" at 50,  think about an invisible wall between
> > the 2 vehicles where they meet.


Lets have another, more dramatic example, that works.

The space shuttle is in orbit at 17,500 mph orbital velocity. The space
shuttle has a mass in orbit of roughly 200,000 pounds-mass. Notice that I
said mass, not weight. The mass of a body is always the same value. The
weight of a body changes with the change in the acceleration of gravity.
Mass is given in kilograms or pounds-mass. Weight is given in pounds.

The worse possible incident is about to happen. A steel bolt massing at
about one ounce-mass is in retrograde orbit at 17,500 mph. The twisted and
mangled bolt is part of the remains from the malfunction and subsequent
explosion of an orbital insertion vehicle delivering a new satellite into
orbit, many months ago. Tragically, the bolt and the space shuttle are in
exactly the same orbit, but going in exactly opposite directions (retrograde
for the bolt). The bolt is too small to be radar tracked by ?United States
Air Force Space Command inside Cheyenne Mountain, Colorado.

The impact velocity of the bolt into the space shuttle *WILL BE* a combined
orbital velocity of 35,000 mph! Why? Because the collision will be totally
inelastic. The 200,000 pounds-mass of the space shuttle will completely
absorb the released kinetic energy of the impact. The one ounce-mass of the
bolt can't affect the space shuttle's forward momentum, due to the drastic
difference in mass. It will be like a bug hitting a car windshield, except
this bug will turn into incandescent plasma upon contact at 35,000 mph and
act like a thermal bomb, blowing a hole straight through the space shuttle.
At that velocity, the bolt would do exactly the same thing to the toughest
main battle tank armor.

The energy released by the one ounce-mass bolt at a combined velocity of
35,000 mph? 2,600,000 foot-pounds. At a velocity of 17,500 mph, the energy
release would only have been 650,000 foot-pounds. That's because velocity is
squared in the kinetic energy formula. Velocity is everything.

So how does all this apply to what has been previously said about car
collisions?

If a car massing at 4000 pounds-mass travelling at 50 mph hits another car
head-on which masses only 2000 pounds-mass and is also travelling at 50 mph,
the lighter car *WILL* receive the majority of the released kinetic energy.
There is both elasticity and inelasticity in this collision, but the elastic
nature of the collision will cause the lighter car to rebound more from the
heavier car. It takes kinetic energy from the impact to cause the rebound,
which will be absorbed into the structure of the lighter car. The lighter
car will receive more damage than the heavier car. This collision must be
elastic to a degree, for the lighter car can't pass through the heavier car.
The velocity isn't high enough. If the lighter car was travelling at 100 mph
instead, we then have a whole new ballgame. The heavier car sustains damage
from the inelastic qualities of the collision while both the inelastic and
elastic qualities of the collision crumple the lighter car.

Even if both cars mass the same at the same velocity, there will be energy
transfer between the 2 cars. True, there will be more "brick wall" inelastic
quality to the collision at the same mass and the same velocity for the 2
cars, however, with the 2 cars, there will still be some inelastic elements
to the kinetic energy transfer. A car hitting a totally unyielding wall can
only impart the energy it brings to the party. The energy at rest of the
unyielding wall is not counted. It's not the same thing.

The above description for the space shuttle is not far-fetched. In 1983,
CHALLENGER took a hit from a ***spec*** of paint in her armored glass
windshield. The spec of paint penetrated 2/3s of the way through. That
windshield pane was replaced.

At the University of Arizona as a R&D aerospace engineer, one of my projects
for about 6 years was working with NASA to mitigate orbital debris. We did
the groundwork for an autonomous robot to be placed in orbit to collect
those orbital debris.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:21:13 EDT
From: DoobieKPB@aol.com
Subject: Another list new-be

- -------------------------------1095808873
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello all,

I just signed up to the list and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Kurt 
Baker and my wife and I are new proud owners of a 1956 88 4 door (no post) 
with a 1964 394 4v automatic. The car has sat in dry storage for 20+ years and 
appears to be once a 1/4 miler. ( At this point in time aren't they all!) The 
first impression is that the last owner may have wanted to convert her back to a 
driver but lost interest along the way. The motor turns but I need to update 
the wires and plugs and do a carb. rebuild and replace the gas tank and lines.
The body is rust free, but the interior will need a lot of work. I have 
always wanted a '55 or '56 and I'm just like kid at Christmas!  I cant stop smiling 
since we bought it!
This is my first 50's GM resto and thankfully I found this list. I am sure 
over the next few months I will be asking many, many questions. I am kinda a 
hands on guy. I like to do as much as I can myself. 
We have on an average done about a car every 3 or 4 years. An expert I'm not, 
but I love the challenge and the thrill driving these autos and meeting more 
"car people." We presently have a '65 Fury and a '62 Falcon and have completed 
'64 Galaxie, 64 GTO, 66 F-85, 68 HO. 
Growing up near Woodward Ave. in Royal Oak gave me a real appreciation for 
all cars. Also having Jack "Doc" Watson as a cousin didn't hurt. Going out on 
Woodward with him and his buddies for a little fun made me the only gray haired 
6 grader in school!
Well thats about it in a nut shell. Be well all,
Kurt Baker
Royal Oak, Mi.

- -------------------------------1095808873
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<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
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<DIV>Hello all,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I just signed up to the list and wanted to&nbsp;introduce myself. My na=
me is Kurt Baker and my wife and I are new proud owners of a 1956 88 4 door=20=
(no post) with a 1964 394 4v automatic. The car has sat in dry storage for 2=
0+ years and appears to be once a 1/4&nbsp;miler. ( At this point in time ar=
en't they all!) The first impression is that the last owner may have wanted=20=
to convert her back to a driver but lost interest along the way. The motor t=
urns but I need to update the wires and plugs and do a carb. rebuild and rep=
lace the gas tank and lines.</DIV>
<DIV>The body is rust free, but the interior will need a lot of work. I have=
 always wanted a '55 or '56 and I'm just like kid at Christmas!&nbsp; I cant=
 stop smiling since we bought it!</DIV>
<DIV>This is my first 50's GM resto&nbsp;and thankfully I found this list. I=
 am sure over the next few months I will be asking many, many questions. I a=
m kinda a hands on guy. I like to do as much as I can myself. </DIV>
<DIV>We have on an average done about a car every 3 or 4 years. An expert I'=
m not, but I love&nbsp;the challenge and the thrill driving these autos and=20=
meeting more "car people." We presently have a '65 Fury and a '62 Falcon and=
 have completed '64 Galaxie, 64 GTO, 66 F-85, 68 HO.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Growing up near Woodward Ave. in Royal Oak gave me a real appreciation=20=
for all cars. Also having Jack "Doc" Watson as a cousin didn't hurt. Going o=
ut on Woodward with him and his buddies for a little fun made me the only gr=
ay haired 6 grader in school!</DIV>
<DIV>Well thats about it in a nut shell. Be well all,</DIV>
<DIV>Kurt Baker</DIV>
<DIV>Royal Oak, Mi.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1095808873--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 17:57:56 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 50 + 50 != 100

All the stuff you said might be correct, but it has nothing to 
do with the original point.  Which is, 2 identical cars colliding 
at 50 mph each, will NOT suffer the same damage as one 
of them hitting a "brick wall" at 100 mph.  Read the Subject.

I simply tried to present that in an intuitively obvious way.

Bruce Roe

21 Sep 2004  "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> writes:
> I can't keep quiet anymore. The following is a gross 
> oversimplification that ignores the effects of the elastic 
> and inelastic qualities of collisions and how that influences 
> kinetic energy transfer, all contained in the laws of
> mechanics in physics.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:35:14 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: tips for removing brake booster?

Folks,

It appears another fine mess I've gotten myself into.

I'm ready to start installing the GM racing (MSD) HD ignition box but 
wanted to address several wiring issues at the same time. I 
particularly wanted to clean up (and probably replace) some of the 
more significant wiring going into the fuse panel through the fire 
wall (some of this is related to the switch over to an HD, internally 
regulated alternator). I unbolted the fuse panel, but haven't had 
much luck separating the bulkhead connectors due to limited access 
(and limited old man flexibility). It seemed removing the power brake 
booster would greatly increase access to that area. I've got the MC 
out and three of the four booster bolts, but am stymied by the lower 
bolt nearer the engine. It seems like the only way I can get 
sufficient swing on even my stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing 
the wiper motor. Am I missing a simpler method? The booster was 
replaced shortly before I bought the car five years ago, so the nuts 
aren't particularly tough to remove once I get them moving.

Seems I'm going to end up doing an inadvertent frame-off if I dig much deeper.

John
68 442 convt.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:51:37 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 50 + 50 != 100

> All the stuff you said might be correct, but it has nothing to
> do with the original point.  Which is, 2 identical cars colliding
> at 50 mph each, will NOT suffer the same damage as one
> of them hitting a "brick wall" at 100 mph.  Read the Subject.
>
> I simply tried to present that in an intuitively obvious way.


Unfortunately, intuition doesn't always work in the real world. The
aftermath would probably be more like taking on a solid wall at 75, given
the varying forces and vectors involved.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 17:01:21 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: tips for removing brake booster?

John,

I looked at one of the '65s. It doesn't have that problem. The area is
fairly clear. I guess the '68 is just tighter.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Livingston" <johnliving@cox.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 4:35 PM
Subject: tips for removing brake booster?


> Folks,
>
> It appears another fine mess I've gotten myself into.
>
> I'm ready to start installing the GM racing (MSD) HD ignition box but
> wanted to address several wiring issues at the same time. I
> particularly wanted to clean up (and probably replace) some of the
> more significant wiring going into the fuse panel through the fire
> wall (some of this is related to the switch over to an HD, internally
> regulated alternator). I unbolted the fuse panel, but haven't had
> much luck separating the bulkhead connectors due to limited access
> (and limited old man flexibility). It seemed removing the power brake
> booster would greatly increase access to that area. I've got the MC
> out and three of the four booster bolts, but am stymied by the lower
> bolt nearer the engine. It seems like the only way I can get
> sufficient swing on even my stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing
> the wiper motor. Am I missing a simpler method? The booster was
> replaced shortly before I bought the car five years ago, so the nuts
> aren't particularly tough to remove once I get them moving.
>
> Seems I'm going to end up doing an inadvertent frame-off if I dig much
deeper.
>
> John
> 68 442 convt.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 20:05:28 -0400
From: "Pat Swanton \"swanny\"" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Another list new-be

Welcome to the list Kurt. It's great to have all the Olds enthuiasts to have
a place to call home!. Sounds like you have had a nice stable full of cars
and different knowledge of a wide spectrum.

Cheers
Pat Swanton
Winchester NH
1978 Cutlass Supreme
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DoobieKPB@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 7:21 PM
Subject: Another list new-be


> Hello all,
>
> I just signed up to the list and wanted to introduce myself. My name is
Kurt
> Baker and my wife and I are new proud owners of a 1956 88 4 door (no post)
> with a 1964 394 4v automatic. The car has sat in dry storage for 20+ years
and
> appears to be once a 1/4 miler. ( At this point in time aren't they all!)
The
> first impression is that the last owner may have wanted to convert her
back to a
> driver but lost interest along the way. The motor turns but I need to
update
> the wires and plugs and do a carb. rebuild and replace the gas tank and
lines.
> The body is rust free, but the interior will need a lot of work. I have
> always wanted a '55 or '56 and I'm just like kid at Christmas!  I cant
stop smiling
> since we bought it!
> This is my first 50's GM resto and thankfully I found this list. I am sure
> over the next few months I will be asking many, many questions. I am kinda
a
> hands on guy. I like to do as much as I can myself.
> We have on an average done about a car every 3 or 4 years. An expert I'm
not,
> but I love the challenge and the thrill driving these autos and meeting
more
> "car people." We presently have a '65 Fury and a '62 Falcon and have
completed
> '64 Galaxie, 64 GTO, 66 F-85, 68 HO.
> Growing up near Woodward Ave. in Royal Oak gave me a real appreciation for
> all cars. Also having Jack "Doc" Watson as a cousin didn't hurt. Going out
on
> Woodward with him and his buddies for a little fun made me the only gray
haired
> 6 grader in school!
> Well thats about it in a nut shell. Be well all,
> Kurt Baker
> Royal Oak, Mi.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 20:09:29 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Window Sticker info

Hey all-

I bought one a blank window sticker and I'd like to figger out what it's 
supposed to look like. I think I have a list of all the option codes in my 
W-machines book.   Does someone have a JPG on how it's supposed to look like 
all typed up?

Since I don't have any information on the origination of this car, I'm 
"fabricating" a history based on how I would have wanted it if I had 
purchased it new myself.   I have a set of 1970 Michigan licence plates that 
I'm going to use for shows.  Now, I need to have a dealer that the car was 
sent to so that I can put it on the window sticker. What was THE formost 
Oldsmobile dealership in Michigan in the musclecar era?  I'm thinking 
Stohlman but there might have been another one I don't know about.  
Actually, I would really like to find an old decklid dealership decal to put 
on my car when it's finished.  It's a detail that almost no restored 
musclecar has.

Thanks for the help

On digest mode
Scott White
93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 18:22:14 -0700
From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
Subject: Re: Window Sticker info

Make sure you use the correct fonts if you submit it to CBS News.

M

At 08:09 PM 9/21/2004 -0500, Scott White wrote:
>Hey all-
>
>I bought one a blank window sticker and I'd like to figger out what it's 
>supposed to look like. I think I have a list of all the option codes in my 
>W-machines book.   Does someone have a JPG on how it's supposed to look 
>like all typed up?
>
>Since I don't have any information on the origination of this car, I'm 
>"fabricating" a history based on how I would have wanted it if I had 
>purchased it new myself.   I have a set of 1970 Michigan licence plates 
>that I'm going to use for shows.  Now, I need to have a dealer that the 
>car was sent to so that I can put it on the window sticker. What was THE 
>formost Oldsmobile dealership in Michigan in the musclecar era?  I'm 
>thinking Stohlman but there might have been another one I don't know about.
>Actually, I would really like to find an old decklid dealership decal to 
>put on my car when it's finished.  It's a detail that almost no restored 
>musclecar has.
>
>Thanks for the help
>
>On digest mode
>Scott White
>93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
>86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
>70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
>55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
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Mark Mullins
Tucson, Az

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 23:22:30 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: tips for removing brake booster?

A deep socket and an extension work on mine, a bit newer.

Bruce Roe

21 Sep 2004  John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net> writes:
> I've got the MC out and three of the four booster bolts, but 
> am stymied by the lower bolt nearer the engine. It seems 
> like the only way I can get sufficient swing on even my 
> stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing the wiper motor. 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5029
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