
oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 15 2004    Volume 01 : Number 5022



Re: (Slightly OT) Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again
Re: (Slightly OT) Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again
83/84 Hurst Olds for Sale
coil spring mix-n-match
Re: coil spring mix-n-match
Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again
Nationals Pics
Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again
Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again
Re: Heater control valve again.
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #5021
Re: Heater control valve again.
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #5021
RE: 83/84 Hurst Olds for Sale
RE: Attention Texas, Louisiana, Oklahoma and Kansas.  Zone show at Cavanaugh Flight Museum
Rain-X
Re: Rain-X
Re: Rain-X
Windshield removal/replacement
Re: Rain-X
Re: Nationals Pics
Shortened URLs (was Re: Craftsman E-Sale....)
RE: Heater control valve again.
Re: Windshield removal/replacement
Re: Heater control valve again.
Re: Heater control valve again.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 22:02:52 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: (Slightly OT) Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again

>I had quite a surprising (very good) experience yesterday when I brought my
>wife's '04 Cadillac SRX back to the dealer for a recall. Seems a washer in 
>the
>  front end near the ball joints was made of the wrong steel, and could 
>fail,
>lowering the front end causing some problem somehow.

Sparks flying off the pavement, perhaps?  :-)

>They also replaced the valve caps (which are the hottest items stolen
>these days, I'm told. They have sensors which tell you the air pressure
>in each tire on your navigation system)

Har! I can see it now... Navigation System:

WARNING: LOW PRESSURE IN YOUR NORTHWEST TIRE...

NO, WAIT...

I MEAN YOUR NORTHEAST TIRE...

HANG ON A MINUTE...

LOOK, PLEASE STOP TURNING CORNERS; I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHICH TIRE IS 
TALKING TO ME HERE...

- -- Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 01:33:38 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: (Slightly OT) Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again

At 10:02 PM 9/14/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Har! I can see it now... Navigation System:
>
>WARNING: LOW PRESSURE IN YOUR NORTHWEST TIRE...
>
>NO, WAIT...
>
>I MEAN YOUR NORTHEAST TIRE...
>
>HANG ON A MINUTE...
>
>LOOK, PLEASE STOP TURNING CORNERS; I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHICH TIRE IS 
>TALKING TO ME HERE...

YOU'RE DRIVING IN CIRCLES, SO YOU MUST BE MISTER GREEN; MRS. GREEN NEVER
DOES ANYTHING LIKE THAT. AND YOU'RE NOT GOING FAST ENOUGH TO BE JUNIOR
GREEN; NOR COULD YOU BE MISSY GREEN SINCE I DETECT NO OTHER YOUNG FEMININE
VOICES IN THE VEHICLE, NOR IS IT GOING TOWARD OR FROM THE MALL.

;o))))

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:00:26 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@mchsi.com>
Subject: 83/84 Hurst Olds for Sale

- --Apple-Mail-12-942309147
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain;
	delsp=yes;
	charset=US-ASCII;
	format=flowed

I still need to sell my two 83s and my 84.  Please contact me off the  
list for more information.

Pictures can be seen at:   
http://community.webshots.com/user/442much-date

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
- ----------
Dan Williams                      442Much@mchsi.com
H/OCA Price Watch Advisor         <Send me the sale price of any  
Hurst/Olds>

- -----<< F O R  S A L E :  H U R S T / O L D S >>-----
         http://community.webshots.com/user/442much
83 Hurst/Olds                     #1649/3001 - Hardtop
83 Hurst/Olds                     #2558/3001 - T-Top
84 Hurst/Olds                     Power Moon Roof

68 442 Convertible                 
http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html


- --Apple-Mail-12-942309147
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/enriched;
	charset=US-ASCII

I still need to sell my two 83s and my 84.  Please contact me off the
list for more information.


Pictures can be seen at: 
http://community.webshots.com/user/442much-date


<fontfamily><param>Courier</param>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dan Williams                      442Much@mchsi.com 

H/OCA Price Watch Advisor         <<Send me the sale price of any
Hurst/Olds>


- -----<<<< F O R  S A L E :  H U R S T / O L D S >>-----    

        http://community.webshots.com/user/442much

83 Hurst/Olds                     #1649/3001 - Hardtop

83 Hurst/Olds                     #2558/3001 - T-Top

84 Hurst/Olds                     Power Moon Roof


68 442 Convertible               
http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html

</fontfamily><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>

</fontfamily>
- --Apple-Mail-12-942309147--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 22:14:17 -0400
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@stonehill.edu>
Subject: coil spring mix-n-match

Greetings all,

I have been contemplating the stance of my W-31 which, at present, does not 
suit my fancy completely.  The car is lowered @ all 4 corners by way of 
Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs.  There's a slight rake towards the front 
that I would like to level off, aka, drop the rear end more.  I have noticed 
that a few companies (Hotchkis being one of them, I believe) have produced 
more A-body lowering springs beyond that of the 1.3" max drop the Eibachs 
provide.  I think a 2" drop rear kit would do the trick.

My question is this:  Is it bad juju to mix and match spring types?  The 
Eibachs would remain on the front and Company X's would go in the rear, thus 
leveling out the car.  I cannot go any lower up front as my headers are 
already too close to mother earth.  Something tells me as long as each end 
matches side-to-side, things should be ok - coil thickness, # of winds 
(wounds?), progressive rates all match.  But alas, I'm just guessing!

Thanks much,

 ~ Dan

+++++++++++++++++++++++++
Daniel R. Gerow
'70 W-31 Post 4spd
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.oldsrocket.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 19:37:28 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: coil spring mix-n-match

> I think a 2" drop rear kit would do the trick.
> My question is this:  Is it bad juju to mix and match spring types?


No. A spring is a spring. It doesn't matter where it came from as long as
the quality is good.


> The
> Eibachs would remain on the front and Company X's would go in the rear,
thus
> leveling out the car.


Fine.


> Something tells me as long as each end
> matches side-to-side, things should be ok - coil thickness, # of winds
> (wounds?), progressive rates all match.


If that's what you want to do, quit arguing with yourself, and do it! It
will work fine as long as nothing drags on the ground at your tailend.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:14:58 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again

Do you know many Toyotas we can buy with 455ci that will still go after
200000 miles and 23yrs?
Well, recommend me one, I could possibly change my 81CS -  its handling is
not so fantastic.
Aha... Toyota has a lot of parts  available after 20 yrs as well,right?
...
..
.
dont be upset with me, I could buy a new Toyota as well, only they have not
a single model that I like AND can afford it... My next fammily car will be
Renault Laguna station or the new Peugeot 407 station...
Matt
81CS



> This is why I buy Toyota's, no one ever has to work on them, and when they
> do it's after 200,000 miles. Whoa, was that a tomato that came whizzing
out
> of my screen! America is gaining on them...................., finally.
>  Rick Messenger
> 76 Olds. 98
> > That's why I never let anyone work on my cars.  Bruce Roe
> >
> > 14 Sep 2004  "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > I hate it
> > > when I have to explain to a Pontiac dealer how to fix a Pontiac.
> > >
> > > -- Andy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:33:18 -0400
From: Larry <kajrav@adelphia.net>
Subject: Nationals Pics

Hi,  

   I was wondering if anyone posted any pictures from the Nationals?  I 
don't remember seeing any links.  I would also be interested in hearing 
from anyone who has information on the 2005 Nationals in Seattle.  
Please hit me off the list if you have any info about the host hotel, 
accomodations etc..  Thanks.

Larry

kajrav@adelphia.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:38:20 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again

This is a true story. There is a "kid" over here who took an Olds.350 and
shoe horned it into his 92 Toy. 4by, he wasn't a Chevy fan. Since his Pappy
musta had lot's of green, that motor was done up in a way that would make
Milton S. envious . It made the speed show rounds in this neck of the woods,
and was a go-in concern. Then he sold it .

I hear tell that Toyota has some "pretty snakey" speed parts out for it's
V8s. I heard from the "boy racer" crowd that there is a fella with a V8
Tundra here in Spokane, that is pumping out over 400 over 500 , and it's not
a blown motor either. I buy them because I never have to work on them; and
you are right, they are expensive. I have a new Tacoma, and a 97 4Runner.
And those are the only 2 vehicles in the Toyota stable that I "like" the
looks of. If they are not careful, they are going to price themselves out.

I predict, that with all the new "custom" looking Models from the Big 2 (
Chryslers not American owned), we are going to see new enthusiasm, and
quality, in USA brands.  For now I will buy the old Oldsmobile's for fun,
and stick with my Toys. for every day use.

Rick Messenger
76 Olds.98 coupe
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again


> Do you know many Toyotas we can buy with 455ci that will still go after
> 200000 miles and 23yrs?
> Well, recommend me one, I could possibly change my 81CS -  its handling is
> not so fantastic.
> Aha... Toyota has a lot of parts  available after 20 yrs as well,right?
> ...
> ..
> .
> dont be upset with me, I could buy a new Toyota as well, only they have
not
> a single model that I like AND can afford it... My next fammily car will
be
> Renault Laguna station or the new Peugeot 407 station...
> Matt
> 81CS
>
>
>
> > This is why I buy Toyota's, no one ever has to work on them, and when
they
> > do it's after 200,000 miles. Whoa, was that a tomato that came whizzing
> out
> > of my screen! America is gaining on them...................., finally.
> >  Rick Messenger
> > 76 Olds. 98
> > > That's why I never let anyone work on my cars.  Bruce Roe
> > >
> > > 14 Sep 2004  "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > I hate it
> > > > when I have to explain to a Pontiac dealer how to fix a Pontiac.
> > > >
> > > > -- Andy
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 06:02:12 -0400
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again

i wont argue that toyota cars are good. but there trucks are good for every day  normal driveing,
but if you take them off road they like to bend things up front in the suspension.
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2004 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again


> This is a true story. There is a "kid" over here who took an Olds.350 and
> shoe horned it into his 92 Toy. 4by, he wasn't a Chevy fan. Since his Pappy
> musta had lot's of green, that motor was done up in a way that would make
> Milton S. envious . It made the speed show rounds in this neck of the woods,
> and was a go-in concern. Then he sold it .
>
> I hear tell that Toyota has some "pretty snakey" speed parts out for it's
> V8s. I heard from the "boy racer" crowd that there is a fella with a V8
> Tundra here in Spokane, that is pumping out over 400 over 500 , and it's not
> a blown motor either. I buy them because I never have to work on them; and
> you are right, they are expensive. I have a new Tacoma, and a 97 4Runner.
> And those are the only 2 vehicles in the Toyota stable that I "like" the
> looks of. If they are not careful, they are going to price themselves out.
>
> I predict, that with all the new "custom" looking Models from the Big 2 (
> Chryslers not American owned), we are going to see new enthusiasm, and
> quality, in USA brands.  For now I will buy the old Oldsmobile's for fun,
> and stick with my Toys. for every day use.
>
> Rick Messenger
> 76 Olds.98 coupe
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 8:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Oh, gawd, Andy's on a rant again
>
>
> > Do you know many Toyotas we can buy with 455ci that will still go after
> > 200000 miles and 23yrs?
> > Well, recommend me one, I could possibly change my 81CS -  its handling is
> > not so fantastic.
> > Aha... Toyota has a lot of parts  available after 20 yrs as well,right?
> > ...
> > ..
> > .
> > dont be upset with me, I could buy a new Toyota as well, only they have
> not
> > a single model that I like AND can afford it... My next fammily car will
> be
> > Renault Laguna station or the new Peugeot 407 station...
> > Matt
> > 81CS
> >
> >
> >
> > > This is why I buy Toyota's, no one ever has to work on them, and when
> they
> > > do it's after 200,000 miles. Whoa, was that a tomato that came whizzing
> > out
> > > of my screen! America is gaining on them...................., finally.
> > >  Rick Messenger
> > > 76 Olds. 98
> > > > That's why I never let anyone work on my cars.  Bruce Roe
> > > >
> > > > 14 Sep 2004  "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > > I hate it
> > > > > when I have to explain to a Pontiac dealer how to fix a Pontiac.
> > > > >
> > > > > -- Andy
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 07:25:40 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Heater control valve again.

In a message dated 9/14/04 5:58:50 PM Pacific  Daylight Time, 
fsnissen@worldnet.att.net writes:
> Delco # 15-5101 -   in line, 5/8" inlet and outlet, vacuum closes
> 
> Delco # 15-5106 -  in line, 5/8" inlet and outlet, vacuum opens
> 
> These are the  standard GM design.  Most of my cars end up 
> with one if the OE  valve fails.  The in line type are far 
> easier to replace than the  stock Olds valve (which often 
> looks like it was installed before the  engine was in the car 
> and all of the other external stuff was on the  engine) on most cars.
> Also easy to bypass if you have a failure on the  road.  Just 
> make sure you consult your shop manual or examine your  
> existing valve to make sure you know how it functions.  Some  
> years and models take a vacuum opens type, some a vacuum 
>  closes.  I have seen lots of "no heat" or "won't cool" 
> complaints  due to an incorrect replacement valve.
Fred,  Listers,
With all the talk going  on about heater control valves and how the 
replacements don't seem to last, why  don't you replace them with original GM parts?  I 
just happen to have a few  of them, think they are all for B, C cars, but I 
can look the numbers up in the  Parts Catalog and make sure of their 
application.  Anyone interested,  please respond privately.
Thanks,
Steve D  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 07:54:10 -0400
From: "Ernie Johnson" <bigej@pivot.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #5021

Hey Randy:

I don't know about Tanson Ent., but driving with a rain-obscured windshield,
sounds like a great way to have to re start the restoration of that car of
yours.
Have you considered "Rain-X" as a temporary band aid until you can get your
wipers operational?  I drive about 50K/yearly in my job and am a really
great fan of Rain-X.  At speeds of 30 mph or greater (depending, I suppose,
on the type of car) any amount of rain will immediately blow off the
windshield.  The only reason I turn my wipers on, even in the heaviest
rainfall, is to prevent the police from thinking I'm nuts!

My 50 also has vacuum wipers that work (as well as vacuum wipers ever
work-just barely uphill, just a blur downhill) and I use Rain-X on it just
in case of a sudden shower and wiper failure.

Hope this helps.

Ernie Johnson
50-88
67-442
>
> Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 00:06:23 -0400
> From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
> Subject: Tanson Ent. Sacramento, CA
>
> Hello
> I rebuilt the vac. wiper motor 3 times with no luck...its done son!
> I thought i would check with some local Cal. peoples(or Olds peoples)
before i sent $180.00 US...Has anyone used this company??
> http://www.forwhatyouneed.com/tansonp1.html
> http://www.forwhatyouneed.com/
> I really need there elec. wiper motor as the bracket season has 2-3 more
races and it seems to rain at the worst of times traveling to the dragstrip
:O
> Makes it sorta tough (and illegal)to see.
> Randy(runnin outa luck) H.
> Maple Ridge B.C.
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at
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>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:03:02 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Heater control valve again.

> Fred,  Listers,
> With all the talk going  on about heater control valves and how the
> replacements don't seem to last, why  don't you replace them with original
GM parts?

- ----------------------

I don't really have any issuues with the durability of the OE part.  I have
had very few fail.  My b*tch with the OE Olds valve is how difficult it is
to change if it fails.  I have had several that could not be removed in tact
without removing the distributor and lots of other stuff.  The easiest way
to remove these in many cars is to hack the valve off and drop a socket over
the remains.  Air tools have always worked for me. Sometimes even a breaker
bar and cheater pipe have not.   Even if you get the remnants of the old
valve out this way, you have to remove all of the other things that are in
the way to install the new OE valve. Far easier to put in a nipple and in
line valve.  The in line valve is just a lot easier to deal with.  Two hose
clamps....

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:03:51 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #5021

At Wednesday, 15 September 2004, you wrote:
>Have you considered "Rain-X" as a temporary band aid until 
>you can get your wipers operational? I drive about 50K/yearly 
>in my job and am a really great fan of Rain-X. At speeds of 
>30 mph or greater (depending, I suppose, on the type of car) 
>any amount of rain will immediately blow off the windshield. 
>The only reason I turn my wipers on, even in the heaviest
>rainfall, is to prevent the police from thinking I'm nuts!

I totally agree. Years ago, when I rode big touring bikes on my everyday 
commutes, I used Mequiar's Plastic Polish on the plexiglass windshield 
of my Windjammer fairing. It was very obvious that I could ALWAYS 
see far better than most of the cars on the road during heavy rainfall;
rain simply beaded up on the plexiglass and ran right off, just 
like Rain-X.

When I got my Elky last year, the PO had done something underdash 
and the wipers didn't work; so he'd been using Rain-X  ;o)  After 
driving the truck in a few rainstorms, I was reminded how much clearer 
that stuff makes your windshield in heavy rain. Recently, we drove 
our BBA to Virginia to drop of Son #1 at college. On the way back,
the heavens opened halfway back and remained that way the whole 
way. The very last thing I'd done before leaving home was applying 
Rain-X to the windshield. We encountered downpours that I haven't 
seen since living in Kansas 20 years ago on the way back; yet, the 
Rain-X, in combination with new wiper blades I'd installed the week 
before, gave me the best vision during the heaviest downpours that 
I can ever rember having.

>My 50 also has vacuum wipers that work (as well as vacuum 
>wipers ever work-just barely uphill, just a blur downhill) 
>and I use Rain-X on it just in case of a sudden shower and 
>wiper failure.

Sure sounds like a great idea for older cars with the potential for 
poor wiper operation.

SteveH



===================================================================
EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:11:52 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: 83/84 Hurst Olds for Sale

Location???


- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Williams [mailto:442much@mchsi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 10:00 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 83/84 Hurst Olds for Sale


I still need to sell my two 83s and my 84. Please contact me off the list
for more information. 


Pictures can be seen at: http://community.webshots.com/user/442much-date 


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------ 
Dan Williams 442Much@mchsi.com 
H/OCA Price Watch Advisor <Send me the sale price of any Hurst/Olds> 


- -----<< F O R S A L E : H U R S T / O L D S >>----- 
http://community.webshots.com/user/442much 
83 Hurst/Olds #1649/3001 - Hardtop 
83 Hurst/Olds #2558/3001 - T-Top 
84 Hurst/Olds Power Moon Roof 


68 442 Convertible http://www.442.com/vcs/1964_1972/williams68.html 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:15:58 -0500
From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
Subject: RE: Attention Texas, Louisiana, Oklahoma and Kansas.  Zone show at Cavanaugh Flight Museum

It is on the NTOC site.  We don't have any controll over Cavanaughs
site.
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/ntexasoca/

    Mike


Mike Schlottman
Sr. Systems Administrator
Society of Petroleum Engineers
222 Palisades Creek Drive 
Richardson, TX 75083
972-952-9382
  

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Wright [mailto:krwright@sbcglobal.net] 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 6:55 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Attention Texas, Louisiana, Oklahoma and Kansas. 
> Zone show at Cavanaugh Flight Museum
> 
> You might suggest that they put this event on the website.
> I don't find anything about a 2004 Zone Show.
> 
> krw
> On Sep 13, 2004, at 5:20 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:
> 
> > Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:39:26 -0500
> > From: "Mike Schlottman" <mschlott@spe.org>
> > Subject: Attention Texas, Louisiana, Oklahoma and Kansas.  
> Zone show 
> > at Cavanaugh Flight Museum
> >
> > The North Texas Oldsmobile Club is hosting our annual zone 
> show.  This 
> > year, since the zone show is so soon after the nationals, it was 
> > decided that we would make this a fun event without the stress of 
> > organizing a major event.  This will be a show and shine 
> only with no 
> > prizes awarded.
> > If you would like for your car to be judged, you can 
> request that it 
> > will be judged and you will receive a judging sheet.
> >
> > We are coordinating with the Cavanaugh Flight Museum who have 
> > graciously allowed us to conduct our show on their grounds. 
>  This will 
> > give us an opportunity to show our classic cars with some of the 
> > finest examples of vintage aircraft around.
> >
> > There will be a hospitality room for all guests at the 
> > InterContinental Hotel, Addison on Friday night.  So come early and 
> > visit with some fellow Olds guys and galls.  Showing will 
> be from 8:30 
> > to 4:00 on Saturday September 25th at the Cavanaugh Flight 
> Museum.  We 
> > will most likely attend a local cruise night Saturday after 
> the show.  
> > More socializing in the hospitality suite on Saturday 
> night.  Then a 
> > buffet breakfast before everyone leaves on Sunday.
> >
> > There will be lots of fun, so come for the day or for the weekend.
> >
> > This show is open to ALL Oldsmobiles.  Even project cars like Arons 
> > http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/ntexasoca/ZoneShow02/Images/
> > zone02_1
> > 2.jpg.
> >
> > See this link for more information on the NTOC and the Zone show.
> > http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=ntexasoca
> >
> > See this link for more information about the Cavanaugh 
> Flight Museum 
> > and to see some of the great planes they have there.
> > http://www.cavanaughflightmuseum.com
> >
> > Hope to see some of you there.
> >
> >     mike
> >
> > Mike Schlottman
> > Sr. Systems Administrator
> > Society of Petroleum Engineers
> > 222 Palisades Creek Drive
> > Richardson, TX 75083
> > 972-952-9382
> Kevin Wright                                krwright@sbcglobal.net
> Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                   http://www.wankel.net/~krwright
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:35:21 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Rain-X

I back up the Rain-X use with all my heart, it really works. Well, on some
VERY sporty cars there can be too little wind on the windshield at lower
speeds to see well, but our Oldses are not this type .
Strange, that some miracle products finally works, must not be a rule,
rather an exeption
Matt

> Hey Randy:
>
> I don't know about Tanson Ent., but driving with a rain-obscured
windshield,
> sounds like a great way to have to re start the restoration of that car of
> yours.
> Have you considered "Rain-X" as a temporary band aid until you can get
your
> wipers operational?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:31:50 -0500
From: "Allen Schwartz" <mycj@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Rain-X

Ya, I'l back up rain ex as long as it is applied right. It must be put on,
let to dry and then buff the heck out of it. It also needs to be done on a
low humidity day. I use it on my tahoe all the time and as long as you have
more than a mist you never use the wipers. There is supposed to be some new
type out that is in a spray can that you can just spray on and wipe off but
I have no experience and I know that if you try that with rainex it is slimy
and oily which makes for all kinds of bluring which can make night driving
run.
I especially like rainex for side windows and mirrors to keep them clear

Allen Schwartz
Alpine Paving Services, LLC
mycj@tds.net
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2004 8:35 AM
Subject: Rain-X


> I back up the Rain-X use with all my heart, it really works. Well, on some
> VERY sporty cars there can be too little wind on the windshield at lower
> speeds to see well, but our Oldses are not this type .
> Strange, that some miracle products finally works, must not be a rule,
> rather an exeption
> Matt
>
> > Hey Randy:
> >
> > I don't know about Tanson Ent., but driving with a rain-obscured
> windshield,
> > sounds like a great way to have to re start the restoration of that car
of
> > yours.
> > Have you considered "Rain-X" as a temporary band aid until you can get
> your
> > wipers operational?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:48:30 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rain-X

RainX never worked all that great for me on my Roadmaster or my 71 conv, but
it did work great on my truck. Probably _because_ of the angle of the
windshield? Sometimes the slope of the 71's windshield suprises me; if you
look at the mirror, the mount is only about 3" long and puts that thing
smack dab in the middle of the windshield. I guess the conv's had slopier
windshields than all the other types? Hmm.
Also, it's great that on the wiper switch, "HI" is now "OFF" and vice-versa.
I can't just turn them on subconsciously anymore!! bah...

Chris

> I back up the Rain-X use with all my heart, it really works. Well, on some
> VERY sporty cars there can be too little wind on the windshield at lower
> speeds to see well, but our Oldses are not this type .
> Strange, that some miracle products finally works, must not be a rule,
> rather an exeption
> Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:52:27 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Windshield removal/replacement

Hi all,
My windshield leaks in the 71, and needs to be re-sealed. But I also would
like to get in there and fix some dash rust in the corner where I could only
get to it with the windshield out. How can I go about doing this? Run the
car down to the glass shop, tell them to pop it out and give me a few hours
to fix it? I don't exactly relish the fact of removing and replacing it
myself, as I've never done it before. And if I remove it at home, how do I
get it to the glass shop? drive with no windshield? (thinking Beverly
Hillbillies style....)

Thanks
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:56:33 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rain-X

- -------------------------------1095260193
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

 
In a message dated 9/15/2004 10:34:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  mycj@tds.net 
writes:

I use it  on my tahoe all the time and as long as you have
more than a mist you never  use the wipers


BTW, Cadillac is expected to eliminate the windshield wipers on  their XLR in 
2006! Supposed to have a stream of high pressure air activated by a  sensor 
constantly blowing from a vent under the windshield. Nothing is supposed  to be 
able to reach the glass. Hope the blower doesn't fail.
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

- -------------------------------1095260193
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
Arial"=20
bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Drol=
e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/15/2004 10:34:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
mycj@tds.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>I use it=20
  on my tahoe all the time and as long as you have<BR>more than a mist you n=
ever=20
  use the wipers</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>BTW, Cadillac is expected to&nbsp;eliminate the&nbsp;windshield wipers=20=
on=20
their XLR in 2006! Supposed to have a stream of high pressure air activated=20=
by a=20
sensor constantly blowing from a vent under the windshield. Nothing is suppo=
sed=20
to be able to reach the glass. Hope the blower doesn't fail.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1095260193--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 15:00:29 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Nationals Pics

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_21261_1095260429_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

> I would also be interested in hearing 
> from anyone who has information on the 2005 Nationals in Seattle. 
> Please hit me off the list if you have any info about the host hotel, 
> accomodations etc.. 
But it applies to alot of people here, so...
Host hotel is the Doubletree hotel Seattle Airport.
http://www.doubletree.com/en/dt/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=CTAC-DT
Meet dates are July 13-17.  OCA rates are $106/night.  If reserving on line, use group/convention code NOC.
Paul
- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_21261_1095260429_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<P>&gt; I would also be interested in hearing <BR>&gt; from anyone who has information on the 2005 Nationals in Seattle. <BR>&gt; Please hit me off the list if you have any info about the host hotel, <BR>&gt; accomodations etc.. </P>
<P>But it applies to alot of people here, so...</P>
<P>Host hotel is the Doubletree hotel Seattle Airport.</P>
<P><A href="http://www.doubletree.com/en/dt/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=CTAC-DT">http://www.doubletree.com/en/dt/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=CTAC-DT</A></P>
<P>Meet dates are July 13-17.&nbsp; OCA rates are $106/night.&nbsp; If reserving on line, use group/convention code NOC.</P>
<P>Paul</P></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_21261_1095260429_0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:59:16 -0700
From: Scott Alfter <scott@alfter.us>
Subject: Shortened URLs (was Re: Craftsman E-Sale....)

On Wed, Sep 15, 2004 at 12:50:58AM +0000, Steve Harrison wrote:
> At 09:57 PM 9/14/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> >To prevent hunt-and-peck insanity among the Olds members trying to follow 
> >all that, here's a shorter link that will get you to the same place:
> >
> >http://makeashorterlink.com/?F23525B49
> 
> I shall show you an even shorter version, from http://tinyurl.com:
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/5lv6l
> 
> Now, THAT was even LESS painful, eh  ;o)))))))

The problem with both of those is that you don't know by looking at them
where either of them will really go.  I might know this time that they both
point to a page on Sears' website, but there's nothing stopping some joker
from using those services to obscure a link to something objectionable--
goatse.cx, tubgirl, the Kerry campaign website, or whatever.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=shock+site&r=f

For me, it's no big deal to pop open Notepad, reassemble a URL, and dump it
into Mozilla.  I'd rather do that than click a link that goes
who-knows-where.

  _/_  Scott Alfter (scott@alfter.us)
 / v \ '77 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
(IIGS( http://alfter.us/            Top-posting!
 \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:08:24 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: Heater control valve again.

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 01:04:14 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Heater control valve again.

> Likely late 70s, since I don't look at much newer.  Bruce

13 Sep 2004  jp <limitedattention@mac.com> writes:
> Hey Bruce...
> 
> I've been following this thread as I am doing some modifications
> to my '72 Cutlass.
> 
> Do you know the approximate year (years) of the Buick and Cadillacs?

> jp

> >It was probably a Buick, or Cadillac Seville with Olds 350.
> >
> >Bruce

I just did a search for the part numbers that Fred posted, and I found this nifty AC Delco site. 
Just put in the GM part number and it tells you alll of the vehicles that part fits:

http://www.acdelco.com/html/catalog/index_list.htm


It appears that the 15-5101 and 15-5106 heater valves were VERY widely used across many 
vehicle lines - 304 hits for the 15-5101 valve and 1053 hits for the 15-5106 valve.

So the question is, which valve - vacuum to open or vacuum to close - does a '71 Cutlass use?

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:45:53 -0500
From: SKammerer@alberto.com
Subject: Re: Windshield removal/replacement

Chris,

Here in Chicago area their are windshield/glass shops that come to you.  I have
used them on 2 occasions, once they came to my car at work and once to my home.
No problem with either installation.

Steve K.



Hi all,
My windshield leaks in the 71, and needs to be re-sealed. But I also would
like to get in there and fix some dash rust in the corner where I could only
get to it with the windshield out. How can I go about doing this? Run the
car down to the glass shop, tell them to pop it out and give me a few hours
to fix it? I don't exactly relish the fact of removing and replacing it
myself, as I've never done it before. And if I remove it at home, how do I
get it to the glass shop? drive with no windshield? (thinking Beverly
Hillbillies style....)

Thanks
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:21:57 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Heater control valve again.

> Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:28:08 -0400
> From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: Heater control valve again.
> 
> 
> Delco # 15-5101 -  in line, 5/8" inlet and outlet, vacuum closes
> 
> Delco # 15-5106 - in line, 5/8" inlet and outlet, vacuum opens
> 

I just located a picture of the 15-5101 heater valve, and it looks just 
like the OEM Olds heater valve, just without the threaded end that screws 
into the intake manifold. I'm not convinced that this valve will be any 
improvement over the OEM valve - it looks as if it can fail in the same 
manner, and leave you stranded. The valve I originally referred to had a 
vacuum cylinder completely removed from the flow control valve (and the 
coolant), with an external linkage connecting the two. If the vacuum diaphragm 
failed, you'd end up with a small vacuum leak, not a coolant leak.

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 12:37:36 -0400
From: Jim Donoghue <jim@smithy.com>
Subject: Re: Heater control valve again.

On Wed, 2004-09-15 at 12:21, Schopen, Kenneth wrote:
> > Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:28:08 -0400
> > From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
> > Subject: Re: Heater control valve again.
> > 
> > 
> > Delco # 15-5101 -  in line, 5/8" inlet and outlet, vacuum closes
> > 
> > Delco # 15-5106 - in line, 5/8" inlet and outlet, vacuum opens
> > 
> 
> I just located a picture of the 15-5101 heater valve, and it looks just 
> like the OEM Olds heater valve, just without the threaded end that screws 
> into the intake manifold. I'm not convinced that this valve will be any 
> improvement over the OEM valve - it looks as if it can fail in the same 
> manner, and leave you stranded. The valve I originally referred to had a 
> vacuum cylinder completely removed from the flow control valve (and the 
> coolant), with an external linkage connecting the two. If the vacuum diaphragm 
> failed, you'd end up with a small vacuum leak, not a coolant leak.

All of my olds diesels had the kind of valve you described. I remember
having to manually move one to the 'open' position when it stuck shut
one winter. Perhaps they just don't make this kind of valve anymore?

Jim

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5022
*********************************
