
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, October 18 2004      Volume 01 : Number 5062



Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?
Re: Non Olds - Help wanted Chevy truck wheels
Oversize exhasut trumpets needed
museum visit
Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?
Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?
Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem
Re: switching to manual transmission?
Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem
Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem
Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem
Re: switching to manual transmission?
Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?
MSD headaches not MSD's fault - Milton right again
RE switching to manual transmission?
RE: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?
RE: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?
Re: switching to manual transmission?
speaking of license suspensions..
RE: Need opinion on Engine Wiring Harness
Re: switching to manual transmission?
Re: 70 F-85 passes IL emissions
RE: switching to manual transmission?
Drumroll please.... OCA results are in....
Re: speaking of license suspensions..

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 18:51:11 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?

It depends John on your company. Mine is not state specific, because I chose
to "opt up" for that grand privilege. I  am with Horace Mann, they have the
lowest premiums I have seen "anywhere". And when you are as cheap as I am,
you look at everything. Amica is the only one that came close, in fact they
beat mine in initial price. The only diff. is Amica adjusts up every year,
mine doesn't, many times it will lower. Horace Mann has some of the toughest
underwriting I have ever seen; so if your record in not close to
sterling............, don't even try.

I am Jealous of your Aurora Final 500; Congratulations..........., is it as
nice as they say. I sure like those cars!

Rick Messenger
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roc88ket" <roc88ket@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2004 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?


> I recently asked my insurance agent the same question because I am doing a
> lot of traveling. He informed me that rental cars are covered completely
> under my auto insurance but rentals of trucks for moving etc, would not
be.
> I would bet the answer is state specific. I live in Nj.
>
> John
> '01 Aurora 4.0
> '03 Aurora Final 500
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 21:57:05 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@postoffice.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Non Olds - Help wanted Chevy truck wheels

At 01:34 PM 10/17/2004, you wrote:
>Howdy Gang...
>
>Sorry for the non-olds post.
>
>Does anybody on the list know of a source for one-piece wheels for a 1963
>Chevy ton truck (C30)?  It has the standard Chevy big truck pattern but only
>has 1/2 inch lugstuds.  This is for my friends' truck.  Only Olds content is
>that it has a wrecker bed and has towed my Olds's several times :-)
>
>The factory two-piece wheels have been a pain in the butt ever since he got
>the truck.  First he bought a set of new tires ($$$) but we couldn't find
>anyone to actually mount them as everyone was confusing them with the
>infamous split rings (these are solid rings still a tad on the dangerous
>side, but not as bad).  Everyone suggested we find some one-piece wheels for
>the truck but they are nowhere to be found.  We finally got them mounted
>(this was a little over a year ago) and now yesterdy he just had his first
>flat... usually no big deal... we installed the spare... then hit the phone
>book.  15 mins. later determined that... again... nobody would touch them.
>So we went outside and dismounted it ourselves (about 45 mins. without
>proper tools) removed the nail... and replaced the tube... then remounted it
>(about another 45 mins.)  Anways... a real aggravation... if anyone knows of
>a source for one-piece wheels... let me know.  If we don't find anything...
>I guess the next option is to drill the lugstud mounting holes oversize for
>the '67 and up style studs.

I don't know how many years this spans, but I know that the 8-lug Dana 60 
front axle that I got from an '88 Dodge pickup has 1/2" lugs, so any wheel 
that would work with that should work with your friend's truck. Do the 
aftermarket rims not fit properly when you put them on? The outer edge of 
the lug-holes doesn't locate the rim; the tapered seat of that hold does, 
against the lug-nut. A lug for a 1/2" stud should have plenty of engagement 
even for a wheel that has a hole large enough for a 9/16" stud.


_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 22:58:58 -0400
From: "Erwin Mendoza" <olds6887442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Oversize exhasut trumpets needed

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 09:19:50 -0400
From: "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Oversize exhasut trumpets needed

I'm changing my exhaust system over to a 2 1/2 inch system and need to find
trumpets to fit. I can cut off the small end of my existing trumpets and
slip them in the pipe and clamp them for now, but would really like to find
some that are made for 2 1/2 inch applications.  Steve (NUOLDSMAN@aol.com)
gave me a lead, but I haven't received a respone, so if anyone knows where
to find them please let me know.  Thanks.

Kurt Heinrich
OCA# 30442
71 Cutlass Supreme SX Convertible (soon to SOUND like a big block!)


I think by now you can get them from Torque Tech exhaust 
http://www.torquetechexhaust.com if not there's a place in Michigan by the 
name of Watosn Engineering that'll make them for you



Erwin Mendoza
OCA#29671
Bakersfield, Ca
No Oldsmobiles for now :(
mailto:olds6887442@hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 21:45:39 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: museum visit

That boost helped get power somewhere near what we 
later got without a supercharger.  Wonder if they had any 
knock problems?  

The cars are great, but all the wooden buildings seemed 
to be decaying badly.  

That use of 2 U joints at each wheel has the potential 
to create a constant velocity joint, pretty clever.  But 
that depends on the angle of the 2 U joints to just split 
the wheel turning angle.  I wonder how it worked in
practice.   Bruce Roe

17 Oct 2004  John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net> writes:
> Hi All
>    I just got back from Auburn Indiana. I spent most of the day 
> at the auburn, cord, duesenberg museum. I highly reccomend 
> it! They have way over 100 cars most in perfect condition. 

> I was interested in looking at the front wheel drive set up on 
> the cord. No CV joints they used two back to back u-joints 

> The supercharger was driven by a shaft off of the crank 
> and produced a whopping 5 inches of boost!
> John Kelsey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 20:28:52 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?

> It all depends on how long your going to have the car,
> and if your Auto Insurance policy will cover rentals.


Don't forget, many credit cards also automatically provide rental car
insurance when that credit card is used to pay for the car rental. Then, one
has both insurance coverage from their credit card and from their regular
auto insurance.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 20:33:56 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?

> However, this last time my wife was going to be doing
> a fair amount of driving, and so I paid the additional $7 or $8 a day
> surcharge for a second driver. Any opinions out there about whether
> or not this is a waste of money?


So you're saying there was going to be a second driver? If there had been an
accident with the second driver, wouldn't there have been a sticky problem
if you had not purchased the additional driver surcharge? Or does that only
apply when you buy the car insurance from the rental company?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 20:38:46 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem

Greg,

With the way you describe the problem, I wonder if using a much better
battery might help solve the problem. If a constant power available Optima
battery was installed and the potential corrosion problem at the negative
terminal permanently fixed, would that solve the problem caused by GM
fumble-fingered electrical engineering?

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

> This flicker is well-documented with Intrigues with the 3.5. There is no
> sure-fire cure. I have followed this for a few years in the forums on
> edmunds.com and have also done some web research on it.
>
> There was a complaint filed with the NHTSB which they eventually closed
> because they determined it was not a safety issue. There have been several
> redesigns of the Intrigue alternator with varying degrees of success. The
> problem seems related to cold weather, but not extreme cold. There are
> other theories as to the cause. One is that the Intrigue has an electic
> air pump for emissions purposes and that when it kicks in that causes the
> flicker. Another theory was the 3.5 engine develops certain harmonics at
> certain RPMs that causes the alternator to continually reset itself.
>
> I have seen reports that the negative battery connection needs to be
> absolutely pristine to prevent the problem, so that might be worth a try.
>
> I finally experienced it myself for the first time 2 weeks ago. I left my
> car at the airport for a week when I went away. The night I came home the
> headlights were flickering with a vengeance on the drive back home,
> although only when in OD on the highway - if I kicked the trans down and
> held the revs up it did not do it. Nor has it done it since. I wonder if
> the battery was slightly run-down after sitting for a week and contributed
> to the problem. I had the car in for service on Friday and reported the
> problem, but they could not find anything wrong. I will check the negative
> battery cable connections myself when I get a chance.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>           Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 20:43:27 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: switching to manual transmission?

> >>  Will these cover most of what I need, other than cables, clutch
> >  > parts, and pilot bearing?
> >
> >There's no cables.
>
> How about a different speedo cable?


Okay, you got me. I didn't think of that.


> I hadn't mentioned a bellhousing in the parts list, either.


That's right. If it were me, I'd simply use a Lakewood bellhousing
scattershield. That solves several problems at once and is the best
bellhousing money can buy.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 20:51:48 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem

> Transient engine vibrations may
> induce the generator to experience field discontinuity. This state results
> in a voltage spike that causes the voltage regulator to reset. During this
> period, the electrical system drops to battery voltage.


I don't know how anyone else feels, but that's purely incompetent
engineering to allow an engine vibration to interfere with a voltage
regulator. That's simply unbelievable.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 04:11:57 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem

At 08:38 PM 10/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Greg,
>
>With the way you describe the problem, I wonder if using a much better
>battery might help solve the problem. If a constant power available Optima
>battery was installed and the potential corrosion problem at the negative
>terminal permanently fixed, would that solve the problem caused by GM
>fumble-fingered electrical engineering?

Personally, I doubt it. It sounds like the alternator is barely adequate to
begin with, meaning it's barely keeping up with the car's electrical system
load. This wouldn't leave much to recharge the battery. The other thing is
alternators put out higher voltage than the battery's no-load voltage,
which is why the battery is able to absorb a charge in the first place.

It sounds to me like the regulator is switching on and off rather than
adjusting the alternator output to keep the car's electrical system at a
constant voltage, which allows the system to fluctuate between the
alternator at high charging current (that is, high output voltage so that
it will charge the battery and also keep the car powered) and the battery
voltage when the alternator is not charging. It wouldn't surprise me if
this is because the alternator uses a microprocessor that performs on/off
switching rather than the older analog current-on-demand type regulator.

Part of this guess is based on the "flickering" occurring regardless of the
engine rpm. As most of us have noticed, the older analog systems with
solid-state regulators also allow the system's voltage to drop but only
when the engine rpm is too low, and the alternator just can't keep up the
current due to the low rpm. Those of you with still-older electromechanical
relay-type voltage regulators have probably seen flickering as the relays
opened and closed, turning on and off the alternator or generator.

Surely, other GM vehicles of the same 1999+ vintage have the same symptoms
because they use the same alternator or regulator schemes??

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 04:01:59 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Need H*lp w/Intrique Electrical Problem

At 08:51 PM 10/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> Transient engine vibrations may
>> induce the generator to experience field discontinuity. This state results
>> in a voltage spike that causes the voltage regulator to reset. During this
>> period, the electrical system drops to battery voltage.
>
>
>I don't know how anyone else feels, but that's purely incompetent
>engineering to allow an engine vibration to interfere with a voltage
>regulator. That's simply unbelievable.

It's oddball, but not unheard of. Shouldn't be happening but it has.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 04:16:42 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: switching to manual transmission?

At 08:43 PM 10/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> >>  Will these cover most of what I need, other than cables, clutch
>> >  > parts, and pilot bearing?
>> >
>> >There's no cables.
>>
>> How about a different speedo cable?
>
>
>Okay, you got me. I didn't think of that.

But presuming you use a non-Olds-type Muncie with the speedo gear housing
on the driver's side rather than Olds' usual passenger side, the TH400
cable should be the same; merely unscrew it from the 400's speedo gear
housing and screw it into the Muncie's. If the Muncie has the speedo
housing on the passenger's side, you'll probly need either an extension
cable or a longer cable.

Since only Olds used passenger-side speedo housings and no other GM
division encountered driver's-side speedo cable interference with the
shifter, I don't see why this would be a problem on an Olds.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 21:30:29 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?

That's quite true, but let's not forget when dealing with a credit card
insurance, it may also be state specific. If an insurance company can beat
you out of providing compensation for your claim, then they will claim
fiduciary responsibility for the stock holders.........., of which you are
not. Your just the poor schmuck who thinks he is covered, and it will be up
to your lawyer to get what you thought was your due......., if indeed he
can. Hopefully your coverage will cover you. It is best to find out first
or, as the British are fond of saying " I say, it's a rather sticky wicket
now isn't it".  Best to check first, even with a credit card insurance. I
found out the hard way once with a credit card buyers protection plan, the
Devil was in the fine print.

Rick Messenger
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2004 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?


> > It all depends on how long your going to have the car,
> > and if your Auto Insurance policy will cover rentals.
>
>
> Don't forget, many credit cards also automatically provide rental car
> insurance when that credit card is used to pay for the car rental. Then,
one
> has both insurance coverage from their credit card and from their regular
> auto insurance.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 22:17:06 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: MSD headaches not MSD's fault - Milton right again

The real issue tends to be how well wirirng and 
connections stand up to long term corrosion and 
stress.  While solder does well on the first (by keeping 
orosion out of the connection), it can ake the wire 
more likely to break off when not stress relieved.  

Measuring connection resistance is out of the useful 
range of most ohm meters.  But it can be done using 
a 4 wire connection.  Feed a known substantial current 
through the wires with the connection in question.  Like 
a headlight current.  Use a DVM to measure the milivolts 
right at the 2 sides of the connection.  Ohms law will 
give the resisance, probably only a few miliohms.

Bruce Roe

16 Oct 2004  John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net> writes:

> I'll have to see if there's some way I can do a long-term 
> resistance test on both types of connections.

> John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 03:42:28 -0400
From: "Zito, James A (GE Energy)" <james.zito@ps.ge.com>
Subject: RE switching to manual transmission?

4. I had the engine components balanced already. If I take the crank=20
back to have them drill it for the pilot bearing, will that affect=20
balancing?

I wouldn't think the drilling would effect it.........
BUT I am pretty sure the change from flex plate to fly wheel will.  

I don't think the flex plate/flywheel is externally balanced like a TC or
clutch and pressure plate. 

I could be wrong on this so don't take just my word on it.


Jim
69 442 conv ....
still in pieces

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 04:31:30 -0400
From: "Zito, James A (GE Energy)" <james.zito@ps.ge.com>
Subject: RE: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?

From John Livingston:

However, this last time my wife was going to be doing a fair amount of
driving, and so I paid the additional $7 or $8 a day 
surcharge for a second driver. Any opinions out there about whether or not
this is a waste of money?

- ------------------
I know with Hertz the spouse is included in the regular fees, I was in a
similar situation a few years ago and I specifically asked if I needed to
pay for a second driver since my (now ex)wife would be using the car.  They
told me that she was included in the regular rate. 

And of course she ended up getting in a wreck with the rental car..........

Jim
69 442 conv.....
still in pieces......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 06:13:52 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: RE: non Olds - rental car 2nd driver surcharge?

This was Hertz. I did not get their insurance and was relying on my 
personal insurance. They always ask me if there will be a second 
driver. This time I told them there would, since I knew she'd be 
using the car quite a bit. I guess I'd better ask next time just what 
the second driver surcharge is for.

Got the car back in one piece last night, so we're in the clear thus far.

John
68 442 convt. about to enjoy some sunshine

>From John Livingston:
>
>However, this last time my wife was going to be doing a fair amount of
>driving, and so I paid the additional $7 or $8 a day
>surcharge for a second driver. Any opinions out there about whether or not
>this is a waste of money?
>
>------------------
>I know with Hertz the spouse is included in the regular fees, I was in a
>similar situation a few years ago and I specifically asked if I needed to
>pay for a second driver since my (now ex)wife would be using the car.  They
>told me that she was included in the regular rate.
>
>And of course she ended up getting in a wreck with the rental car..........
>
>Jim
>69 442 conv.....
>still in pieces......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 06:17:37 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: switching to manual transmission?

>  > >>  Will these cover most of what I need, other than cables, clutch
>>  >  > parts, and pilot bearing?
>>  >
>>  >There's no cables.
>>
>>  How about a different speedo cable?
>
>
>Okay, you got me. I didn't think of that.


Steve H says I might be able to use the TH400 cable anyway, so you're 
off the hook.

>
>
>>  I hadn't mentioned a bellhousing in the parts list, either.
>
>
>That's right. If it were me, I'd simply use a Lakewood bellhousing
>scattershield. That solves several problems at once and is the best
>bellhousing money can buy.

I'll look into those.

So, you willing to give me an opinion on the car's driveability if I 
stick with the current, numerically-low rear end and put in the 
Muncie wide ratio? Am I going to the bogging a bit starting out 
unless I beat the cr*p out of the clutch?

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 07:14:24 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: speaking of license suspensions..

> Happened to a friend of mine put off the testing and forgot about
> it got pulled over and bam without warning got arrested for
> suspended license. They never told him he was suspended! It
> is up to you to know if you are or not. Nice!

Bummer. Here in Connecticut they have a new trick. I had a beater Lincoln
registered in my name that I no longer wanted to drive. Let the insurance
lapse. Insurance company notifies Motor Vehicle Dept that car is not
insured. MVD mails me a notice that insurance has lapsed, which I ignored.
However, failure to return the registration plates resulted in my license
being suspended. By the time I found out about it the fine was $340. Ouch.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 08:31:13 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: Need opinion on Engine Wiring Harness

Jeff,

I just purchased the "Painless" wiring harness for my 69 Cutlass
Convertible.  Got it from Summit [www.summitracing.com]  It is the entire
harness from engine to tail lights.  Haven't installed it yet, but it is
very nice quality.  Switches the fuse box to spade type connectors also.
Has connections for HEI, Power Windows, etc.

Hope this H*lps

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff and Sherie Stanish [mailto:stanishj@svpal.org]
> Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2004 4:22 PM
> To: Oldsmobile@Chebucto. Ns. Ca
> Subject: Need opinion on Engine Wiring Harness
> Importance: High
> 
> 
> Has anyone out there bought any repro engine wiring harness??? or
> > know someone that did?
> >
> > What was their experience?
> >
> > Who did they buy it from??
> >
> > Other stuff I should know??
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jeff
> > 1969 442
> >
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 09:38:06 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: switching to manual transmission?

At Monday, 18 October 2004, you wrote:
>So, you willing to give me an opinion on the car's 
>driveability if I stick with the current, numerically-low 
>rear end and put in the Muncie wide ratio? Am I going to 
>the bogging a bit starting out unless I beat the cr*p out 
>of the clutch?

Sheesh, I'd hope not. My favorite street car that I drove all the 
time including commuting to work, back in the mid-70s, was a 421-
powered '64 Goat. The 421 had a Sig Erson Hi-R-H2 cam that gave the 
nastiest low-speed idle I've ever heard, then or since. God only 
knows what the 0.050" lift/duration really was but when that thing 
was idling below 800 rpm, it sounded like 8 totally independent cylinders 
firing at complete random  ;o)  I still hear that thing in my dreams 
===================8-O

Rear gears were 3.23 posi, and the tranny was a Muncie close-ratio.
It ran 12.5-12.8 @ around 110-114 mph. I never did manage to prevent 
tire spin off the line for the first hundred feet or so but then 
agin, I never had slicks, either. Got 13 mpg around town but over 
20 could be had on the freeway with judicious very-kind treatment 
of the throttle. When that thing caught 3rd gear on an on-ramp, light 
poles flew by so quickly you couldn't count em  ====================8-
O

On the LA streets, it was sufficiently-docile that when the light 
turned green, all I hadda do was gently slip my foot off the clutch 
(Note: I did NOT say "release the clutch") while giving it just a 
tad of throttle and the tires would give a nice, satisfying chirp.
RPM would drop to maybe 500 once the tires caught and from there 
on, it was just like Ma's Drodge Drat in the next lane over  ;o)

In other words: el mucho cubic inches go a LONG way toward making 
up for loss of low-end torque.

I simply wouldn't worry about it.

And dadnabbit, ye've made me wax nostalgic agin, and made me miss 
rowing my Muncie  ;o\  ;o\  ;o\  Fortunately, I just happen to have 
THAT EXACT same Muncie sitting downstairs in the basement  ;o)))))) 
Needs some synchros, shifter forks and a shifter but should be good 
to go then...  

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 07:32:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: chris smetana <grp442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 70 F-85 passes IL emissions

- --0-1037837517-1098109940=:87984
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Better be careful with that suspended license issue, you will
be arrested and handcuffed and taken downtown. You should
have had the option to get your plates suspended instead of
your license. 
- ---------------------------
nope.  no option.  seriously, you need to check into this yourself, because I'm willing to bet you'll get a different explanation that what I got.  First they issue a notice/order to suspend your license.  You have 60 days from that date to drive (illegally) to the test facility to get your car tested to pass.  You also have the option to submit an explanation why you can't have your car tested at this time (out of state, not running, sold, junked, etc).  Eventually they would lift your license suspension and suspend your plates (possibly indefinitely).
 

You can get a special permit to drive your car to the emmisions
testing facilitie and back that's it, then reaply for your plates.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
yep, you can apply for a 7 day 'special permit', for an additional $10.  niiiiice.
 
 
70 442 (not licensed or reg.)
- ----------------------------------------
and probably not titled in his name either, assuming he even has the title  :-)))
 

74 98 (suspended plates)
- --------------------------------------
driven illegally one year ago.  did you get those bugs off your windshield  hee hee

68 GTO (not licensed or reg.)
- -----------------------------------------
and he may not have the title for this one either, I don't know

96 Ram (this month testing)
- --------------------------------------
luckily, this one wouldn't be put on the dyno, 96 and newer they read the codes from the computer.  so those bad tires, worn shocks, trans the doesn't go into reverse under load and broken engine mount may or may not be an issue.  Hey, they tested my mustang with those bald tires on the dyno.

91 Accord (who cares!)
- ---------------------------------
agreed  :-)
 
Chris
grp442@yahoo.com
 
99 GMC Sierra (licensed, titled, insured in my name and emissions friendly)
89 5.0L mustang (licensed, titled, insured in my name.  failed first emissions test, two more strikes and I'm out)
69 Cutlass S W-31 (licensed, titled, insured in my name.  emissions test notification will probably come this spring or summer)
70 F-85 (licensed, titled, insured in my name and emissions friendly)
66 GTO (still old CA title, but in my possession in the safety deposit box and insured in my name.  emission exempt)
69 442 parts car (AZ title in safety deposit box and have no plans to license, title or insure this car)
70 F-85 parts car (sitting in OH, TN car with no title)

		
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<DIV>Better be careful with that suspended license issue, you will<BR>be arrested and handcuffed and taken downtown. You should<BR>have had the option to get your plates suspended instead of<BR>your license. <BR>---------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>nope.&nbsp; no option.&nbsp; seriously, you need to check into this yourself, because I'm willing to bet you'll get a different explanation that what I got.&nbsp; First they issue a notice/order to suspend your license.&nbsp; You have 60 days from that date to drive (illegally) to the test facility to get your car tested to pass.&nbsp; You also have the option to submit an explanation why you can't have your car tested at this time&nbsp;(out of state, not running, sold, junked, etc).&nbsp; Eventually they would lift your license suspension and suspend your plates (possibly indefinitely).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>You can get a special permit to drive your car to the emmisions<BR>testing facilitie and back that's it, then reaply for your plates.<BR>----------------------------------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>yep, you can apply for a 7 day 'special permit', for an additional $10.&nbsp; niiiiice.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>70 442 (not licensed or reg.)</DIV>
<DIV>----------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>and probably not titled in his name either, assuming he even has the title&nbsp; :-)))</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>74 98 (suspended plates)</DIV>
<DIV>--------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>driven illegally one year ago.&nbsp; did you get those bugs off your windshield&nbsp; hee hee</DIV>
<DIV><BR>68 GTO (not licensed or reg.)</DIV>
<DIV>-----------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>and he may not have the title for this one either, I don't know</DIV>
<DIV><BR>96 Ram (this month testing)</DIV>
<DIV>--------------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>luckily, this one wouldn't be put on the dyno, 96 and newer they read the codes from the computer.&nbsp; so those bad tires, worn shocks, trans the doesn't go into reverse under load and broken engine mount may or may not be an issue.&nbsp; Hey, they tested my mustang with those bald tires on the dyno.</DIV>
<DIV><BR>91 Accord (who cares!)<BR>---------------------------------</DIV>
<DIV>agreed&nbsp; :-)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Chris</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:grp442@yahoo.com">grp442@yahoo.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>99 GMC Sierra (licensed, titled, insured in my name and emissions friendly)</DIV>
<DIV>89 5.0L mustang (licensed, titled, insured in my name.&nbsp; failed first emissions test, two more strikes and I'm out)</DIV>
<DIV>69 Cutlass S W-31 (licensed, titled, insured in my name.&nbsp; emissions test notification will probably come this spring or summer)</DIV>
<DIV>70 F-85 (licensed, titled, insured in my name and emissions friendly)</DIV>
<DIV>66 GTO (still old CA title, but in my possession in the safety deposit box and&nbsp;insured in my name.&nbsp; emission exempt)</DIV>
<DIV>69 442 parts car (AZ title in safety deposit box and have no plans to license, title or insure this car)</DIV>
<DIV>70 F-85 parts car (sitting in OH, TN car with no title)</DIV><p>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 09:57:54 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: switching to manual transmission?

I just replaced the "old" competition plus in my 4-4-2 with a new one.  
Didn't want to wait on the rebuild turn around time.

You want the 391-8014 shifter for the 69-72 Chevelle.  I used my old stick 
as it clears the dash better, but the one that came with the new shifter 
should be OK.  This particular shifter has the offset built in to center the 
stick in the middle of the console.  The chrome stick has no offset.  As was 
mentioned earlier, you may want a different stick, but that's up to you.

You will need the 373-7834 installation kit also.  This contains the 
mounting plate and all the linkage for the shifter.

go to http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/hurst2001manual.pdf  for the catalog.



Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 11:07:54 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Drumroll please.... OCA results are in....

Well, the results are in from the 2004 OCA judging.
1966 442 L69 tricarb car, manual trans, 3.90 gearing.

They sent the award and judging sheet certified mail. It was here Saturday, 
but apparently the mail man was too lazy to bring it to the house. We were 
here in the house all day, no one knocked that I know of. So, I get to go 
down to the station to sign for it this morning.

And the results:

Second Place!  with 856 points!

That's super. As well as I expected to get. Points off for what?

- -10 Body: Fender emblems are both "bad," trunk molding rusted- yeah kinda 
tough to find NOS ones.
L Door is blemished.

- -20 Paint: nothing in particular mentioned, overall quality perhaps?

- -30 Exterior brightwork: Top stainless needs redone [?], Front bumper 
corroded, Rear bumper wavy. Is it really worth $1800 for Memmer's NOS 
undercoated bumpers to gain maybe 20 pts here? Not for a driven car.

- -8 Exterior Glass & "software" [I didn't even know a 1966 car needed 
"software"]: RH vent glass discolored, chrome trim needs cleanup.

- -10 Engine Compartment: Rusty manifolds [imagine that! on a driven car!], 
Wrong fan belt, wrong radiator cap, wrong master cylinder.

- -15 interior: Wrong radio knobs [??? That's what was on the original AM 
radio when it came to us- seems rather unlikely that someone would change 
the knobs unless the radio were removed. Have to look into that I guess. Who 
has a close pic of "correct" 1966 radio knobs?]
...Cracked steering wheel [duh, ever seen one that -isn't-? Not since oh 
1970 you haven't. FAR better than the one we started with though, this one 
still shows its little ribs where the hand grip portions are. Again, NOS 
ones are a LEEE-TLE hard to come by.
...Missing GM tag on RH door [I thought only the LH door got that tag for 
1966- have to ck the photos of the car as-rcvd I guess].
...Latch screws painted [Doh! Damn painters. They wanted to leave the doors 
on to "save work" too.]
...Tach case should be black [what, it's not?].
...Dashboard/ Console showing wear [yeah, imagine that, a 35 year old car 
with wear.]
...Sail panel fit [darn headliner guy said "that's the way they all are"]
All things considered, very generous, not much deduction for this area 
considering its age.
Dunno about them radio knobs though.

- -20 Tires, wheels, coverings: "Wrong" tires, yeah, we opted for 15" radials 
for drivability over exactly per original.

- -21 Undercarriage and fenderwells: Wrong tailpipes [Walt was not offering 
them at the time this car was assembled].
...Mufflers are dirty [yeah, we dared to drive the car]
Imagine what the car will look like after 2 more years of DRIVING it, that's 
exactly why I very much needed THIS YEAR's judging to take place as per our 
agreement.

- -10 Trunk compartment: Incorrect paint. [??? in what way? Exact nature or 
size of the random blobs of white vs. gray? That's what is sold these days 
as correct for this type car, what more can one do?]

A few erasures, looks like all to the benfit of the score. "Supportive 
Literature" was -15, then erased. I forget what all we had- Chassis Service 
manual, Assembly Manual, and the DVD display of many photos, for sure.

It would have taken another 50 points [almost] to move to First Place, Let's 
see, if one were to:

20 correct tailpipes
05 Radio knobs and tach case color
20 NOS bumpers for a mere $1800
10 replace RH vent glass, clean trim, de-rust manifolds, get correct fan 
belt and rad cap, re-do the original master cylinder, and then

NEVER EVER DRIVE IT AGAIN.

Shyeah, right. Like that'll happen.

They missed a few obvious things, don't wanna tip my hand on ALL of them, 
but the oil fill cap was painted engine color [should be black], etc.

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 11:19:39 -0400
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: speaking of license suspensions..

At Monday, 18 October 2004, you wrote:
>Bummer. Here in Connecticut they have a new trick. I had a 
>beater Lincoln registered in my name that I no longer wanted 
>to drive. Let the insurance lapse. Insurance company notifies 
>Motor Vehicle Dept that car is not insured. MVD mails me a 
>notice that insurance has lapsed, which I ignored. However, 
>failure to return the registration plates resulted in my 
>license being suspended. By the time I found out about it 
>the fine was $340. Ouch.

They do that up in Massachusetts; I learned bout it not quite that 
hard. Mass is weird; you arrange for your insurance with some local 
agent (I dunno whether you can even get insurance in Mass without 
going through a local agent/office). In my case in particular, I 
chose a tiny "shop" just down the street from us carrying Progressive,
only because they were "right there" and super-convenient. But the 
really nice thing was BECAUSE they were "right there" (just down 
the street from our house), they took the extra time to do other 
things for me. For example: in Mass, your insurance agent/office 
will go to the DMV FOR YOU and get yer car registered; you just fill 
out the paperwork and give them a check. They take yer papers and 
those of other customers and someone goes downtown and does all the 
waiting-in-line, etc. etc. Then they also bring back the license 
plates. You can either pick them up from the insurance agent or sometimes,
like for me, they'll drop them off at yer home.

Anyway.... so the agents bend over backwards for you most the time,
like when yer late with yer payments or want to drop a car from 
coverage. In Mass, you have to turn in the plates, like in Conn. 
If you don't, they keep charging property tax (which Virginia also 
does). So there's a good incentive for you to return the plates. 
I don't know whether they suspend yer license for that, but they 
will if yer late with yer vehicle property taxes.

SteveH



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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5062
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