
oldsmobile-digest    Thursday, September 23 2004    Volume 01 : Number 5030



RE: Another list new-be
50+50 != 100
seeks running 455 in central MI
man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's
oooopsie - accidentally sent pix and inquiry/ warning to the list
Re: Another list new-be
Re: tips for removing brake booster?
Re: 50 + 50 != 100
1957 Olds power antenna removal
Re: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's
Re: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's
Re: Window Sticker info
RE: Window Sticker info
Booster nut removal
FOUND for cheap: shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's
Re: Booster nut removal
FW: GM Part number list in Excel
Speaking of Olds Dealerships
Re: tips for removing brake booster?
Re: Speaking of Olds Dealerships
RE: Dan's recently purchased '65 F85
Seat trim needed on '65 Cutlass buckets
RE: Speaking of Olds Dealerships
Overhaulin' 68 4-4-Foose On Mag Cover
Re: Window Sticker info
50+50 != 100
Speaking of Olds Dealerships
2004 nats info needed
RE: steering gear box rebuilds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:40:21 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
Subject: RE: Another list new-be

DoobieKPB@aol.com wrote:
 
>with a 1964 394 4v automatic. The car has sat in dry storage for 20+ years and 
>appears to be once a 1/4 miler. ( At this point in time aren't they all!) >Kurt Baker
>Royal Oak, Mi.
>
Hello and welcome Kurt&wife
Does your 56 have a B&M 4speed?
Posi rear?
Didnt Lee Petty win NASCAR at the new Daytona track 1959 with a 394?
http://i.cnn.net/nascar/2004/news/headlines/cup/02/17/milestone_1959/petty_59_med.jpg
Some here will tell you 394s a Hemi eater.
Next time i will do a 394, more after market prts avail=HP.
A bad day of racing is better then a good day at work.
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3596099/1087529446387_Untitled5.jpg
Good luck with the 56,..i vote GO RACING!
Randy H.
Maple Ridge B.C.
58 371
72 430
72 350

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 14:04:26 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 50+50 != 100

Are you saying that crashing into an object such as a car coming at  you at
50mph is the same as you hitting a brick wall that is not  moving, Bruce 
Roe?
(not Bruce)
=================
Dunno about the Bruce Brigade, but that'd be my assertion, yes. To the 
occupants of a given vehicle, it matters not whether they go from 50 to 0 by 
hitting another vehicle, or by hitting the immovable object. What -would- 
help is hitting a very light less massive object that they can bounce 
backwards, like, the Asura car in my example. What would hurt our occupants 
is.... being in the smaller lighter unit, the Asura.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 14:14:02 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: seeks running 455 in central MI

Apparently the "running 455" I sold a few days ago has a cracked block

If I can find a runner to replace it, that'd be great. Otherwise I gotta 
assemble one or play the "money back, sports fans" game.

Gotta be a known runnable drop-in ready engine, or I might as well assemble 
the one I just took apart today. It was sweet inside, except for the dust. 
Bearings look like new. Cylinders are perfect.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to 
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 14:11:18 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's

Anyone got a line on such a thing?

Repro? The Parts Place maybe?

Thanks!
cc to me please, I am on digest here.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 13:33:03 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: oooopsie - accidentally sent pix and inquiry/ warning to the list

I hate when that happens
that was supposed to go to Mr. Mestad only

Went to the other defendants as well.

And the list

With pix

Sorry!
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to 
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 00:50:08 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Another list new-be

Kurt,

> Some here will tell you 394s a Hemi eater.


Yeah, Randy's right. My first car was my parent's '59 98 4-door. The first
engine I rebuilt was her 394 in September 1963. It was my 17th birthday to
myself. I didn't build her stock. Her body became heavily modified
internally. She became a perfect sleeper. In '68, coming off a freeway
entrance ramp onto the freeway, a '68 Plymouth Street Hemi behind me wanted
to race. My '59 walked him, by a bunch.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 06:06:22 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: tips for removing brake booster?

>John,
>
>I looked at one of the '65s. It doesn't have that problem. The area is
>fairly clear. I guess the '68 is just tighter.


And that low hood on the 68 doesn't help much either!

>
>Milton Schick
>1964 442 Cutlass
>imp@theriver.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Livingston" <johnliving@cox.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 4:35 PM
>Subject: tips for removing brake booster?
>
>
>>  Folks,
>>
>>  It appears another fine mess I've gotten myself into.
>>
>>  I'm ready to start installing the GM racing (MSD) HD ignition box but
>>  wanted to address several wiring issues at the same time. I
>>  particularly wanted to clean up (and probably replace) some of the
>>  more significant wiring going into the fuse panel through the fire
>>  wall (some of this is related to the switch over to an HD, internally
>>  regulated alternator). I unbolted the fuse panel, but haven't had
>>  much luck separating the bulkhead connectors due to limited access
>>  (and limited old man flexibility). It seemed removing the power brake
>>  booster would greatly increase access to that area. I've got the MC
>>  out and three of the four booster bolts, but am stymied by the lower
>>  bolt nearer the engine. It seems like the only way I can get
>>  sufficient swing on even my stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing
>>  the wiper motor. Am I missing a simpler method? The booster was
>>  replaced shortly before I bought the car five years ago, so the nuts
>>  aren't particularly tough to remove once I get them moving.
>>
>>  Seems I'm going to end up doing an inadvertent frame-off if I dig much
>deeper.
>>
>>  John
>>  68 442 convt.
>>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 09:03:52 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 50 + 50 != 100

- -------------------------------1095858232
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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Seems to me that a car coming at you at 50mph has got to be bringing energy  
along with it, whereas a brick wall is simply standing there. I remember 
seeing  a documentary some years ago where they collided two locomotives head-on. I 
 don't remember what point they were trying to make, but I do remember both  
trains standing almost straight up an instant before they exploded. Hitting a  
brick wall with a car (or a locomotive) would not have that reaction. Where 
are  the slide rule guys when you need them?
 
 
 
Bruce (The  real one, not the other guy)
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72  Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92 Eldo

- -------------------------------1095858232
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
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e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>Seems to me that a car coming at you at 50mph has got to be bringing en=
ergy=20
along with it, whereas a brick wall is simply standing there. I remember see=
ing=20
a documentary some years ago where they collided two locomotives head-on. I=20
don't remember what point they were trying to make, but I do remember both=20
trains standing almost straight up an instant before they exploded. Hitting=20=
a=20
brick wall with a car (or a locomotive) would not have that reaction. Where=20=
are=20
the slide rule guys when you need them?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
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Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>92 Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML=
>

- -------------------------------1095858232--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 09:13:28 -0400
From: "Rex Crews" <rexcrews@bellsouth.net>
Subject: 1957 Olds power antenna removal

Dear All,

I am hoping someone out there can help me.  I am trying to remove the power
antenna from my 1957 Olds 98.  The procedure in the shop manual does NOT
work as it's impossible to reach the antenna from underneath or under the
hood due to the placement of the Autronic Eye, which also seems impossible
to remove.  I hate to remove the fender to get the antenna off, but I can't
see any other way.  Can anyone help?  Feel free to email me directly.

Thanks,

Rex Crews  '57 Olds 98 Holiday

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 06:56:34 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's

Chris,

I couldn't find a cable for my 69 cutlass so I went to an Industrial Equipment supplier near my workplace. They dealt in
hoses, and cables etc for large equipment. They custom made a cable for me that is just like the original for $35.

Kevin


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 11:11 AM
Subject: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's


> Anyone got a line on such a thing?
>
> Repro? The Parts Place maybe?
>
> Thanks!
> cc to me please, I am on digest here.
> ----------------------
> Chris Witt
> 1303 W. Miller Rd.
> Lansing MI 48911
>
> RocketScience442@hotmail.com
>
> Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
> Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
> Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 14:08:12 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_27545_1095862092_0
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> Anyone got a line on such a thing? 
Still available from GM.  See your friendly Oldsmobile dealer (are there any of those left?).  Part #357746.  GM has plenty of stock.  Retails for $96.70.
Paul
- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_27545_1095862092_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<P>&gt; Anyone got a line on such a thing? </P>
<P>Still available from GM.&nbsp; See your friendly Oldsmobile dealer (are there any of those left?).&nbsp; Part #357746.&nbsp; GM has plenty of stock.&nbsp; Retails for $96.70.</P>
<P>Paul</P></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_27545_1095862092_0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 14:18:26 +0000
From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Window Sticker info

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_24317_1095862706_0
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> What was THE formost 
> Oldsmobile dealership in Michigan in the musclecar era?
How 'bout Story Oldsmobile in Lansing.  I think I heard that at one time they were the largest Oldsmobile dealer in the country (naturally...).
> I'm thinking 
> Stohlman 
In Michigan?
Paul
- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_24317_1095862706_0
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<html><body>
<P>&gt; What was THE formost <BR>&gt; Oldsmobile dealership in Michigan in the musclecar era?</P>
<P>How 'bout Story Oldsmobile in Lansing.&nbsp; I think I heard that at one time they were the largest Oldsmobile dealer in the country (naturally...).</P>
<P>&gt;&nbsp;I'm thinking <BR>&gt; Stohlman </P>
<P>In Michigan?</P>
<P>Paul</P></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_24317_1095862706_0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 07:49:09 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Window Sticker info

Scott,

Story Olds in Lansing was about the largest volume Olds dealer, IIRC.  Some 
Lansing members, mainly Chris Witt may have Story license frames, etc you 
can pick up.  License frames are by far the most popular way of identifying 
the original dealer out here in the west.  Every old Cutlass from the 60's 
we have bought from CA has still had the original dealer frame or frames on 
them in the last few years.  Most people don't want anything on that 
expensive, nice paint.

I am sure you can come up with something.

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 10:55:42 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Booster nut removal

I've got the MC
out and three of the four booster bolts, but am stymied by the lower
bolt nearer the engine. It seems like the only way I can get
sufficient swing on even my stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing
the wiper motor. Am I missing a simpler method?
================
Deep socket, U-joint fitting at the socket, 12" extension, and the swivel 
head ratchet usually do it for me.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 11:03:53 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FOUND for cheap: shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's

>From: 62oldsfan@comcast.net
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>CC: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: man seeks shifter CABLE for 83-84 H/O with LR's
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 14:08:12 +0000
>
> > Anyone got a line on such a thing?
>Still available from GM.  See your friendly Oldsmobile dealer (are there 
>any of those left?).  Part #357746.  GM has plenty of stock.  Retails for 
>$96.70.
>Paul
===================

AWESOME
THANKS
added that to my PN list, which is getting quite nice. The parts you NEED 
are listed. Excel format.

PS "gmpartsdirect.com" has the thing for $55.12 and $11 shipping, total of 
$66 or so.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 11:21:16 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Booster nut removal

>
>================
>Deep socket, U-joint fitting at the socket, 12" extension, and the 
>swivel head ratchet usually do it for me.
>----------------------
>Chris Witt

Thanks, Chris. That seems to be the consensus. I'll giver 'er a try.

John
- -- 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 11:33:47 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: FW: GM Part number list in Excel

If your Excel PN List includes available numbers for 68-72
Cutlass and 442 models, could you e-mail me a copy?

Best wishes,
Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com
=================
It is lots of various numbers
not necessarily items available at the dealer
good for items that show up at swap meet, ebay, etc.
I can shoot y'all a copy, yeah, as long as you realize that not all items 
are available, there may be some typos, etc. You can sort it by PN, PN last 
3 digits, name, group, etc.
- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days




>From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
>To: rocketscience442@hotmail.com
>Subject: GM Part number list in Excel
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 11:15:56 -0400
>
>On Wednesday Chris Witt wrote:
>
> >===================
> >
> >AWESOME
> >THANKS
> >added that to my PN list, which is getting quite nice. The
>parts you NEED
> >are listed. Excel format.
> >
> >PS "gmpartsdirect.com" has the thing for $55.12 and $11
>shipping, total of
> >$66 or so.
> >----------------------
> >Chris Witt
> >1303 W. Miller Rd.
> >Lansing MI 48911
>
>Hi Chris,
>
>If your Excel PN List includes available numbers for 68-72
>Cutlass and 442 models, could you e-mail me a copy?
>
>Best wishes,
>Mike McDonald
>McDonald_M@72ho.com
>
>1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
>     "as seen on Speed TV"
>    The American Musclecar
>             or
>         www.72ho.com

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 11:55:12 -0400
From: "David Popadic" <davepopadic@core.com>
Subject: Speaking of Olds Dealerships

Does anyone know if any "Olds" only dealerships still in business?  We 
have a "SMALL" dealership located in Husher, WI that is Olds only.  I 
have no idea how he stays in business (I believe it's a retired 
gentleman running the place).  He has (unfortunately) the newer 
Oldsmobile dealer signs out front.  On the "showroom" floor he has 2 
cars (one Olds and one Buick, I have no idea why the Buick).  On the 
lot, there around 5 cars that have been there for years, I believe).  I 
see the service doors open when it's nice out.  He has a (from a 
distant), a really nice (forgive me on the years here), early 70's 98.  
In back of the service center is a mid 80's Delta.  I stopped and took a 
couple of pictures of my Cutlass there.  I'll post a link when I get 
them developed (hopefully before Christmas -lol).

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 06:52:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Peter Ferraro <petercferraro@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: tips for removing brake booster?

- --0-929562658-1095861143=:33838
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

John,
 
I just removed mine frm my 71.  A ratcheting wrench is that way to go.  You can get a single or a full set at Sears (or e*bay).  If you buy one make sure you get the fine toothed version.
 
Good Luck.
 
Peter Ferraro
1971 Cutlass
1996 Aurora
1998 Bravada
 
OCA# 36530

 
 
 
 
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:35:14 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: tips for removing brake booster?

Folks,

It appears another fine mess I've gotten myself into.

I'm ready to start installing the GM racing (MSD) HD ignition box but 
wanted to address several wiring issues at the same time. I 
particularly wanted to clean up (and probably replace) some of the 
more significant wiring going into the fuse panel through the fire 
wall (some of this is related to the switch over to an HD, internally 
regulated alternator). I unbolted the fuse panel, but haven't had 
much luck separating the bulkhead connectors due to limited access 
(and limited old man flexibility). It seemed removing the power brake 
booster would greatly increase access to that area. I've got the MC 
out and three of the four booster bolts, but am stymied by the lower 
bolt nearer the engine. It seems like the only way I can get 
sufficient swing on even my stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing 
the wiper motor. Am I missing a simpler method? The booster was 
replaced shortly before I bought the car five years ago, so the nuts 
aren't particularly tough to remove once I get them moving.

Seems I'm going to end up doing an inadvertent frame-off if I dig much 
deeper.

John
68 442 convt.

- ------------------------------


__________________________________________________
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- --0-929562658-1095861143=:33838
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>John,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I just removed mine frm my 71.&nbsp; A ratcheting wrench is that way to go.&nbsp; You can get a single or a full set at Sears (or e*bay).&nbsp; If you buy one make sure you get the fine toothed version.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Good Luck.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Peter Ferraro</DIV>
<DIV>1971 Cutlass</DIV>
<DIV>1996 Aurora</DIV>
<DIV>1998 Bravada</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>OCA# 36530</DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:35:14 -0400<BR>From: John Livingston &lt;<A href="http://us.f532.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=johnliving@cox.net&amp;YY=59986&amp;order=down&amp;sort=date&amp;pos=0&amp;view=a&amp;head=b"><FONT color=#003399>johnliving@cox.net</FONT></A>&gt;<BR>Subject: tips for removing brake booster?<BR><BR>Folks,<BR><BR>It appears another fine mess I've gotten myself into.<BR><BR>I'm ready to start installing the GM racing (MSD) HD ignition box but <BR>wanted to address several wiring issues at the same time. I <BR>particularly wanted to clean up (and probably replace) some of the <BR>more significant wiring going into the fuse panel through the fire <BR>wall (some of this is related to the switch over to an HD, internally <BR>regulated alternator). I unbolted the fuse panel, but haven't had <BR>much luck separating the bulkhead connectors due to limited access <BR>(and limited old man flexibility). It seemed removing the power brake <BR>booster would greatly
 increase access to that area. I've got the MC <BR>out and three of the four booster bolts, but am stymied by the lower <BR>bolt nearer the engine. It seems like the only way I can get <BR>sufficient swing on even my stubby 9/16th box wrench is by removing <BR>the wiper motor. Am I missing a simpler method? The booster was <BR>replaced shortly before I bought the car five years ago, so the nuts <BR>aren't particularly tough to remove once I get them moving.<BR><BR>Seems I'm going to end up doing an inadvertent frame-off if I dig much <BR>deeper.<BR><BR>John<BR>68 442 convt.<BR><BR>------------------------------<BR></DIV><p>__________________________________________________<br>Do You Yahoo!?<br>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around <br>http://mail.yahoo.com 
- --0-929562658-1095861143=:33838--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 13:51:00 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speaking of Olds Dealerships

- -------------------------------1095875460
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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Used to be a great Olds dealership in Summit, NJ called Superior Olds. Had  
one of the great Parts departments. Got tons of stuff for my Delta there i.e.,  
Cruise control module, twilight sentinel, even got a DRL module that works  
great. Unfortunately, they're gone, and so are their great Olds signs.
 
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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<DIV>Used to be a great Olds dealership in Summit, NJ called Superior Olds.=20=
Had=20
one of the great Parts departments. Got tons of stuff for my Delta there i.e=
.,=20
Cruise control module, twilight sentinel, even got a DRL module that works=20
great. Unfortunately, they're gone, and so are their great Olds signs.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 15:00:57 -0400
From: "Daniel Burk" <dan@ws6transam.org>
Subject: RE: Dan's recently purchased '65 F85

>Are you absolutely sure the engine is a 330? The reason I ask is the
>thermostat housing isn't typical '65 with the curved metal nipple. Instead,
>she should have a complete curved by-pass hose. Also, the pulleys are
>definitely wrong. I can see it off the water pump.

Thanks for the tips! I checked the engine this afternoon, and there, behind
the waterpump is the "1" casting number that identifies it as a '64-'66 330
block. I also was able to see the stamp on the passenger-side cylinder head,
which starts out as "T" 35 8something.something, which according to the FAQ
identifies it as a 330 cylinder head. So, since the car was in a front-end
collision, I am guessing the guy replaced the accessories with later model
pieces and didn't quite get it right.

Since Chris Witt lives on just the other side of town, I am going to see if
he'll let me dumpster-dive behind his garage for some correct pullies,
brackets, and accessories. One question I didn't find in the FAQ: Are the
water pumps different from '64-66 and later model engines? Could it be that
I have a water pump that is pushing out the pulley too far, because it is
from the incorrect year?

>> Is there anyone on the list here that might have some spare parts laying
about?
>Maybe. It all depends on what you might need.
>Milton Schick

It looks like I need about $900 in interior parts for this car, excluding
the cracked dash and missing radio. My bumpers are also showing some
rust-through near the support studs. I'm going to have to use them for this
year for budgetary reasons, unless someone can cough up a '65 bumper for
cheap. I would like to find some seat belts though: Does anyone have an
extra set in either black or white? Bucket seats in front, bench in back.

- --Dan Burk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 15:59:04 -0400
From: "Daniel Burk" <dan@ws6transam.org>
Subject: Seat trim needed on '65 Cutlass buckets

Now, I am unsure if aking for parts is okay content for this list, but my
Ebay, Google, 442.com searches have come up blank. I'm missing the side
chrome from my '65 F85 bucket seats. Probably any old bucket seat from a
Cutlass will have these trim pieces. I also have buggered-up trim on the
door panels as a past owner decided to cut them to fit their door speakers.

Anyone have some in their attic?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 20:19:52 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Speaking of Olds Dealerships

>Does anyone know if any "Olds" only dealerships still
>in business?

Certainly: Martin J. Kelly Olds in Arlington Heights, IL. (See link below.)

Interestingly, their website now lists them as an Avanti dealer as well, 
although you'd never know that to look at the place (as I do every morning 
and evening from the commuter train), other than to notice the odd Avanti or 
two parked out front. Hardly what you would call "branching out," anyway.

http://www.kellyolds.com/

>Martin J. Kelly Oldsmobile has been in business for over
>75 years. First opened in 1919 on Ohio Street in Chicago,
>Martin J. Kelly then moved to Arlington Heights in 1962.
>His son, Bill Kelly Sr., took over the business, and now
>his grandson, Bill Kelly Jr., (3rd generation) is following
>in their footsteps. We have a fine staff of employees, some
>of which have been with us for over 40 years.
>
>We have seen many changes in Oldsmobile over the last
>75 years and look forward to the next 75.

*cough*

Um, yes...  :-}

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 16:40:42 -0400
From: "Jay Britt" <jbritt67@cox.net>
Subject: Overhaulin' 68 4-4-Foose On Mag Cover

Has anyone seen the '68 442 from Overhaulin' on the cover of Muscle Car
Enthusiast?.


Jay Britt
OCA#29460
67 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe
99 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
http://members.cox.net/jbritt67

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 15:30:34 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: Window Sticker info

> Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 18:22:14 -0700
> From: Mark Mullins <mark@marineaviation.org>
> Subject: Re: Window Sticker info
> 
> Make sure you use the correct fonts if you submit it to CBS News.
> 
> M

Now that was the funniest thing I have read in quite a while!

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 17:36:08 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 50+50 != 100

21 Sep 2004  "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com> writes:
> 
> Are you saying that crashing into an object such as a 
> car coming at  you at 50mph is the same as you hitting 
> a brick wall that is not  moving, 
> Bruce Roe?   (not Bruce)

Given a perfect meeting, same weight, same speed, that's 
what I said.  Real world is not so ideal, but far, far closer 
to the above than hitting an immovable object at 100 mph

Sure there is twice as much energy when 2 cars collide, but 
it is dissipated by 2 cars, not 1.  

Bruce (has drive 1,000,000 miles in Oldsmobiles) Roe
(not the "real" Bruce)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 17:37:34 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Speaking of Olds Dealerships

Don't know about the present staff.  I took my Cutlass 
over there about '67 to check driveshaft noise, which mostly 
happened after I drove through a puddle of rain water.  Now 
days it would be obvious to me, the exhaust pipe would 
distort and rub a little till it heated up again.  BUT...

MJ*K "rebuilt" my drive shaft, which was so complex it 
has 5 grease fittings.  It then made a very bad clunking 
sound, which got worse.  I took it back at 7am (when they 
said they opened).  The manager didn't show up till 7:20.
When I told him to ride around the block with me, he 
refused.  "Something might happen".  Guess I wasn't 
anything.  So I took it to another place, which replaced 
the badly damaged (newly installed) U joint.  I took 
the U joint back to MJ*K, but they refused to pay the bill.  

I learned to fix my cars, by fixing mechanics' mistakes.  
Now I just do it all myself.  No reason to rush a job, no 
buying all sorts of parts that didn't need replacing.  
Sometimes I make a mistake, but I never get a lot of 
argument and a big bill.  Bruce Roe

22 Sep 2004 "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> writes:
> http://www.kellyolds.com/
> 
> >Martin J. Kelly Oldsmobile has been in business for over
> >75 years. First opened in 1919 on Ohio Street in Chicago,
> >Martin J. Kelly then moved to Arlington Heights in 1962.
> >His son, Bill Kelly Sr., took over the business, and now
> >his grandson, Bill Kelly Jr., (3rd generation) is following
> >in their footsteps. We have a fine staff of employees, some
> >of which have been with us for over 40 years.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:48:25 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: 2004 nats info needed

Anyone with a tale of woe or other pertinent information from the judging 
fiasco at the 2004 OCA national meet please contact me.

Now I hear that someone was heard thanking the officials profusely, for 
pushing their registration thru in spite of some sort of problem.

Yet, I continue to get the hardass treatment by them. They are currently 
ignoring the latest update, which was the photo proof of the car's 
registration with "JUDGED" box checked.

Please step forward and share any info you might have, especially if you had 
a bad experience.

er, snail mail or private email if you please:

Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd..
Lansing MI 48911

517-449-0432 cell
517-882-9747 home
RocketScience442@hotmail.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:19:06 -0400
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: steering gear box rebuilds

Update on the Steering Box...

Sent it out UPS Ground last Monday, got the call back that it was done on
Thursday.  Ended up that they had a '69 box on the shelf with the ratio
already done, I just paid for the firm feel conversion ($125)!

This Monday the FedEx guy dropped off a freshly sandblasted steering box
including the rubber coupler (sent mine without it).

It will probably be a couple of months before I get to actually try it on
the car, but if service is any indication, it should perform very well.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI
69 Cutlass S Convertible
[H/O Reproduction]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Bejma [mailto:tomcb@prplastics.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 9:17 AM
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: steering gear box rebuilds
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with Tom at Stear and Gear.  Nice guy. 
>  Discount
> honored.  My box will be going out this week.  Definitely a 
> MUST to go with
> my Global West Upper/Lower Tubular Control Arm/Coil-Over set up.
> 
> In case anyone needs the shipping information it's:
> 
> Steer and Gear
> 1000 Barnett Rd.
> Columbus, OH  43227
> 
> Send UPS/FedEx and include:  Name, address, phone, year, 
> model, quoted price
> (just in case Tom doesn't open it).
> 
> GREAT price for my '69 box.  Even a local company wanted $200 
> for the same
> job.  Thanks Joe for helping us out.  Will update the list 
> when it gets
> back.  
> 
> How did yours turn out Joe? (guess I should have asked before 
> I decided to
> go with these guys ;-)
> 
> Tom Bejma
> Harrison Twp., MI
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 73H/O OLDSRIP [mailto:jtmwalt@netsync.net]
> > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:18 AM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: steering gear box rebuilds
> > 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Last year at this time I set up a discount for steering gear 
> > box rebuilds from a place called Steer & Gear in Coloumbus,
> > Ohio. I just got off the phone with him and our discount is
> > still good.  I am sending him a box for his firm feel
> > conversion and rebuild/reseal.
> > The firm feel conversion is where he changes the torsion rod, 
> > (I think thats correct) in the box.
> > He can also change the ratio if you want that.
> > 
> > The prices are:
> > 
> > Firm feel conversion and rebuild is $125.00, regular price 
> is $165.00
> > The faster ratio and firm feel rebuild is $165.00, regular $ 210.00
> > 
> > Call Tom at 1-(800) 253-4327, tell him that your from the 
> > Olds internet list.
> > 
> > Joe Walters
> > 73 H/O
> 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5030
*********************************
