
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 31 2004      Volume 01 : Number 5006



TH400 filter hold-down variation?
Interior cost
Re: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea
Re: Interior cost
RE: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea
Re: TH400 filter hold-down variation?
Re: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea
Piston position vs crank angle
RE: Piston position vs crank angle
Re: 403 Throwing Belts
Re: Piston position vs crank angle
RE: Piston position vs crank angle
TH400 filter hold-down variation?
Re: Interior cost
Cooling upgrade
Bought the SX, need exhaust opinions
Cooling upgrade
Re: Cooling upgrade
RE: Cooling upgrade
66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???
2004 Nationals (and tic toc tach!)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 00:10:19 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: TH400 filter hold-down variation?

If the plate is still there, you can scrape off the paint 
and read the pressed in digits.  But if its your typical 
rebuilt, no telling what combination of parts are in 
there.  

The early 65/67400s (mostly switch pitch) used a long 
box filter which plugged directly into the case.  A pan with 
a "heelprint" out the bottom fit the filter pickup.  The 68 
and later (none switch pitch) used the flat pancake filter 
with a bent tube extension to the case, and a deeper 
pan with just a couple of dimples.  This filter needed 
a retaining bolt to keep it loosely in place.

All my transmissions are SWitch Pitch (with electronic 
SWP control).  With the early filter difficult to get, I just 
converted to the common later filter/pan.  There are 
several ways to handle the filter retaining bolt.  One 
is just use a 68 up valve body.  Another is drill and tap 
the 65-67  valve body at the exact same spot for the 
retaining bolt.  Of course being very careful not to get 
any shavings in the valve body.  The General milled a 
flat for the bolt, but you could just grind it, or use a 
little shorter bolt/spacer if it hits the pan.  On some 
SWP valve bodies, there maybe a mounting bolt hole 
there.  I have tapped this valve body for the next size 
(3/8") in this case, for a custom retaining bolt.  This 
will no longer hold the valve body to the case, but 
none of the 68 up did either.  Bruce Roe

29 Aug 2004  John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net> writes:
> Thanks, Steve. I finally dragged out the CSM and located 
> where the plate should be. I saw that flat, rectangular 
> area while I was under the car and peered at it as best 
> my aged eyes could. Either it's been painted over or 
> obliterated in some other way. I'd guess it's a 
> remanufactured unit. The whole thing is painted blue, 
> including that plate.

> >At 06:09 PM 8/29/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >>That in mind, I noticed in the B&M instructions, that the
> >>65 to 67 Th400s used a different filter. Could it be I have
> >>an early transmission that's been kludged to work with the
> >>more recent filters?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 02:09:06 EDT
From: Roncutlass@aol.com
Subject: Interior cost

- -------------------------------1093846146
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Has anyone had a shop replace their seat upholstery and the interior door  
panels? just curious the dollar range.  Thanks,  Ron

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 23:53:25 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea

Highly unlikely. The aluminum 215 was a totally different engine.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com



> Apparently the '63 olds 215 V8 is the same as a current day land rover
> 4.0L V8.  These come with serpentine systems on them.
> 
> Think any of those parts would fit a 403?
> 
> Just a stupid idea.
> 
> Christian
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 05:56:29 -0400
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: Interior cost

Roncutlass@aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone had a shop replace their seat upholstery and the interior 
> door panels? just curious the dollar range.  Thanks, Ron
Hi Ron
     I had the seats and headliner done in my 80 toro about $2500.00 of 
course this was a lot of leather
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 06:29:43 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea

Actually, the Rover is closer to the Buick version of the 215. That 
said, the Olds 215 shares more parts with the Buick 215 than any Olds 
engine. Virtually nothing from the 215 will fit any other Olds engine, 
sorry.

krw
On Aug 29, 2004, at 11:54 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 00:41:07 -0400
> From: "Christian Sager" <chris.sager@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea
>
> Apparently the '63 olds 215 V8 is the same as a current day land rover
> 4.0L V8.  These come with serpentine systems on them.
>
> Think any of those parts would fit a 403?
>
> Just a stupid idea.
>
> Christian
>
On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 09:41:31 -0400
From: John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net>
Subject: Re: TH400 filter hold-down variation?

I've taken the coward's way out and ordered the early filter from 
partsamerica. The B&M deep pan adapter also fits that, so it seems 
the easiest solution. If I eventually run out of sources for the 
early filters, I'll do as you suggest and drill and tap the valve 
body.

Thanks.

John
68 442 convt. on jack stands once again

>If the plate is still there, you can scrape off the paint
>and read the pressed in digits.  But if its your typical
>rebuilt, no telling what combination of parts are in
>there. 
>
>The early 65/67400s (mostly switch pitch) used a long
>box filter which plugged directly into the case.  A pan with
>a "heelprint" out the bottom fit the filter pickup.  The 68
>and later (none switch pitch) used the flat pancake filter
>with a bent tube extension to the case, and a deeper
>pan with just a couple of dimples.  This filter needed
>a retaining bolt to keep it loosely in place.
>
>All my transmissions are SWitch Pitch (with electronic
>SWP control).  With the early filter difficult to get, I just
>converted to the common later filter/pan.  There are
>several ways to handle the filter retaining bolt.  One
>is just use a 68 up valve body.  Another is drill and tap
>the 65-67  valve body at the exact same spot for the
>retaining bolt.  Of course being very careful not to get
>any shavings in the valve body.  The General milled a
>flat for the bolt, but you could just grind it, or use a
>little shorter bolt/spacer if it hits the pan.  On some
>SWP valve bodies, there maybe a mounting bolt hole
>there.  I have tapped this valve body for the next size
>(3/8") in this case, for a custom retaining bolt.  This
>will no longer hold the valve body to the case, but
>none of the 68 up did either.  Bruce Roe
>
>29 Aug 2004  John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net> writes:
>>  Thanks, Steve. I finally dragged out the CSM and located
>>  where the plate should be. I saw that flat, rectangular
>>  area while I was under the car and peered at it as best
>>  my aged eyes could. Either it's been painted over or
>>  obliterated in some other way. I'd guess it's a
>>  remanufactured unit. The whole thing is painted blue,
>>  including that plate.
>
>>  >At 06:09 PM 8/29/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>>  >>That in mind, I noticed in the B&M instructions, that the
>>  >>65 to 67 Th400s used a different filter. Could it be I have
>>  >>an early transmission that's been kludged to work with the
>>  >>more recent filters?


- -- 
John Livingston
Library Media Specialist
Phillips Elementary
703 Lemaster Drive
Hampton, VA 23669
757 850 5155

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:24:18 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: 403 Throwing Belts - an odd idea

Rover V8 is said to be of  Buick origine... Matt

> Apparently the '63 olds 215 V8 is the same as a current day land rover
> 4.0L V8.  These come with serpentine systems on them.
> 
> Think any of those parts would fit a 403?
> 
> Just a stupid idea.
> 
> Christian
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:32:17 -0400
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Piston position vs crank angle

> >> Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC. Basically,
>set> >> timing with a dial indicator gage.
============
I tossed together a spreadsheet today
Still have to verify/ correct the numbers such as compression ht- used #'s 
off the top o' my head.

Short answer:
At 30 degrees off TDC, the piston is down 0.367" from TDC for a 4.250 stroke 
6.735" rod configuration [std 455 values]

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 11:04:16 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle

Chris

I don't think that is correct.  I made up this sheet a week or two ago when
this question was asked and came up with .913"  The compression height
shouldn't matter as it's constant, at both TDC and 30 deg off TDC it adds
the same amount.

Eric


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Christopher Witt
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 9:32 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Piston position vs crank angle


> >> Figure out the distance from TDC to the piston at 30* BTDC. Basically,
>set> >> timing with a dial indicator gage.
============
I tossed together a spreadsheet today
Still have to verify/ correct the numbers such as compression ht- used #'s
off the top o' my head.

Short answer:
At 30 degrees off TDC, the piston is down 0.367" from TDC for a 4.250 stroke
6.735" rod configuration [std 455 values]

- ----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 09:23:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: kenneth treharn <kwt_1950@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 403 Throwing Belts

You have an alinement problem somewhere. Start with
the harmonic balancer and make sure it is torqed down
right. Then work your way to the pulleys. Bracket on
water pump has a small spacer, is it missing?  Use a
straight edge, somewhere you are off. By he way, you
might want to lower your RPM a little, there is a lot
of rotating weight there. Later, Ken 


		
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:40:35 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Piston position vs crank angle

Chris Witt wrote:
 > Short answer:
 > At 30 degrees off TDC, the piston is down 0.367" from TDC for a 4.250
 > stroke 6.735" rod configuration [std 455 values]

Eric Beaupre wrote:
> 
> I don't think that is correct.  I made up this sheet a week or two ago when
> this question was asked and came up with .913"  

My spreadsheet agrees with Chris.  I read 0.369"

I think you (Eric) need to look at the value at 180 degrees on your 
spreadsheet.  It would appear to be twice what logic would dictate. =:0

Changing Eric's calculations to use 1/2 the stroke as the throw length 
yields the same results as I have.
- --

Cliff "It's hard to stroke 8" when you have a 6" rod." Simpson
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:56:15 -0500
From: "Eric Beaupre" <ebeaupre@eserv.biz>
Subject: RE: Piston position vs crank angle

Good Catch.  I was using the stroke as the radius of the crank sweep, not
the diameter.  So basically, my stroke was times 2.

Eric


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Cliff Simpson
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 11:41 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Piston position vs crank angle


Chris Witt wrote:
 > Short answer:
 > At 30 degrees off TDC, the piston is down 0.367" from TDC for a 4.250
 > stroke 6.735" rod configuration [std 455 values]

Eric Beaupre wrote:
>
> I don't think that is correct.  I made up this sheet a week or two ago
when
> this question was asked and came up with .913"

My spreadsheet agrees with Chris.  I read 0.369"

I think you (Eric) need to look at the value at 180 degrees on your
spreadsheet.  It would appear to be twice what logic would dictate. =:0

Changing Eric's calculations to use 1/2 the stroke as the throw length
yields the same results as I have.
- --

Cliff "It's hard to stroke 8" when you have a 6" rod." Simpson
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 18:22:41 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: TH400 filter hold-down variation?

In order to use the old filter, you must have the shallow 
old pan, with the "heel print" sticking out the bottom 
for the filter pickup.

Bruce Roe

30 Aug 2004  John Livingston <johnliving@cox.net> writes:
> I've taken the coward's way out and ordered the early filter from 
> partsamerica. The B&M deep pan adapter also fits that, so it seems 
> the easiest solution. If I eventually run out of sources for the 
> early filters, I'll do as you suggest and drill and tap the valve 
> body.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 20:57:48 -0400
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Interior cost

Hi Ron,
I had my entire interior done in 2000.  I think the new vinyl, including
door panels totaled about $1100, and the install was about another $500 or
so. I replaced just about everything from springs to foam to seat lock
buttons to interior light lenses and my total Year One invoice was about
$1500.  Truthfully, after watching the guy do the vinyl, I think I'd be
tempted to do it myself if I had to do it again.  This is not a very
scientific process.  Some hog ring supplies and some 3M spray adhesive is
needed, but other than that, it involves heating up the vinyl and some grunt
work to get it on tight.  There are some tricks of the trade, like covering
the foam padding with a trash bag to get the vinyl to go on easier, then
ripping the bag out from under, but it really wasn't rocket science.  If you
have the time and some patience, I'd give it a whirl...  I think the only
real problem was that one of the headrest covers split at the seam because
he fought with it a bit too much.  The interior was mf'd buy PUI.
Scott
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Kelsey" <ribspot@pop4.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: Interior cost


> Roncutlass@aol.com wrote:
> > Has anyone had a shop replace their seat upholstery and the interior
> > door panels? just curious the dollar range.  Thanks, Ron
> Hi Ron
>      I had the seats and headliner done in my 80 toro about $2500.00 of
> course this was a lot of leather
> John Kelsey
> Dayton Ohio
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:11:31 -0400
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
Subject: Cooling upgrade

I'm fed up with my wimpy cooling system, which is, no doubt, the result of a
previous owner cannibalizing the good stuff from the car and leaving me with
a 3-core radiator, no shroud, and no clutch fan.  So now I need parts.
Everything seems pretty available except the sheet metal.  I know I need a
new top plate (no bosses or holes for the shroud and brackets too narrow).
What should I expect to pay and where do you think I could find one?  Also,
does anything major need to happen with the core support or do I just need
new, wider brackets at the bottom?  How 'bout the pulley that the clutch fan
would mount to?  And while I'm at it, what is the prevailing opinion on
water pumps?  I've watched the threads on balancers, so I think I know what
I want to do with that.  I want to stay as correct as possible, but given my
recent boredom with the show circuit and the trophy thing, I'm more
interested in good cooling on those rare but enjoyable 90 degree
Massachusetts days.  'Don't want to drive around with gallons of coolant and
spare hoses in the trunk anymore.  Thanks in advance!
Scott
71 442 Conv.
75 Delta 88 Royale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:17:55 -0400
From: "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Bought the SX, need exhaust opinions

I decided Greg was right about the highway gears and staying out of trouble,
so I bought the '71 SX convertible.
It's sienna with a tan top and tan stripes on the OAI hood.  Not positive
about the rear, but I think its a 2.56 peg leg.  Even so, it smokes ~A~ tire
without trying and catches rubber into 2nd.  Turns out it is nice to have
highway gears and not a 3.42 or 3.73 as the car downshifts into 2nd when
passing at highway speeds and hits 3rd at 78mph.  She definately wants to
run on the highway.

Now the problem.  The car has grandma mufflers, quiet ALL the time.  I want
to replace them this coming weekend with something that will give a nice
presence at idle, a throaty rumble during acceleration and make some noise
at WOT.  I don't want to have a ridiculously loud exhaust at cruising speeds
since the top will be down but I do want to hear it while I'm driving.  I
was thinking about Walker Dynomax Turbos.  All input appreciated.

Kurt Heinrich
OCA# 30442
'71 Cutlass Supreme SX Convertible
'71 442
'95 Aurora
old442@adelphia.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:25:27 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Cooling upgrade

A shroud with a 7 blade fan and 4 row radiator would 
do wonders.  Of course a deep pitch 7 blade is only 
practical with a heavy duty fan clutch.  I have taken a 
pair of 2/3 row hold downs and welded them together 
to make a custom 4 row.  I don't think the water pump 
is very critical.  Bruce Roe

30 Aug 2004  <vze210y3@verizon.net> writes:
> I'm fed up with my wimpy cooling system, which is, no 
> doubt, the result of a previous owner cannibalizing the 
> good stuff from the car and leaving me with a 3-core 
> radiator, no shroud, and no clutch fan.  So now I need 
> parts.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 20:56:45 -0700
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling upgrade

As for the fan and oil clutch, seems to me I have heard of guys going to the
junk yard, and pulling off the heavy duty 7 blade fan and clutch from a
Toronado or 98 . Flex-A-Lite makes a dandy light weight performance fan that
pulls in up to 50% more air, and is rated up to 7000 RPM. It fit's on the
OEM mounts. Just a thought.
Rick
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 6:11 PM
Subject: Cooling upgrade


> I'm fed up with my wimpy cooling system, which is, no doubt, the result of
a
> previous owner cannibalizing the good stuff from the car and leaving me
with
> a 3-core radiator, no shroud, and no clutch fan.  So now I need parts.
> Everything seems pretty available except the sheet metal.  I know I need a
> new top plate (no bosses or holes for the shroud and brackets too narrow).
> What should I expect to pay and where do you think I could find one?
Also,
> does anything major need to happen with the core support or do I just need
> new, wider brackets at the bottom?  How 'bout the pulley that the clutch
fan
> would mount to?  And while I'm at it, what is the prevailing opinion on
> water pumps?  I've watched the threads on balancers, so I think I know
what
> I want to do with that.  I want to stay as correct as possible, but given
my
> recent boredom with the show circuit and the trophy thing, I'm more
> interested in good cooling on those rare but enjoyable 90 degree
> Massachusetts days.  'Don't want to drive around with gallons of coolant
and
> spare hoses in the trunk anymore.  Thanks in advance!
> Scott
> 71 442 Conv.
> 75 Delta 88 Royale
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:33:11 -0700
From: "Chris Fair" <cfair@att.net>
Subject: RE: Cooling upgrade

Flexalite -- been there tried that.

In the end, I wound up with a factory solution for both my 455'd big cars. 

Traditional stuff: 4 row radiator, clean and/or new, factory shroud, clutch
fan 

Haven't had a cooling related problem in the 5 or 8 years since I went
factory. My advice is to emulate whatever the factory called "Heavy Duty" in
your year and you'll probably get good results. 

When in doubt, don't skimp on a good radiator.  

My impression is that water pumps are the weakest link. Figure on replacing
them every few years. 

Also use distilled water, not hose water, with your coolant. And use a purge
tank. My 66's didn't come with 'em, but I got a 73/74
Eldorado tank to look almost factory on both cars with minimal effort. 

Over the last 23 years (yikes I'm 40), I've tried lots of aftermarket stuff
and gradually gone back to factory with most systems, except the radio.
Factory cooling parts after flexalite; Factory Qjet after the Holley
experiments, Factory HEI after the MSD experiment, etc, etc. 

My conclusion is GM built pretty durable stuff since they didn't want cars
coming in for repairs. 

The aftermarket parts can work just great ( MSD & Holley for example), but
over the longer term (like 5-15 years) they just don't seem quite as durable
to me.

Just my $.02.

Cheers,
cf 


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Rick & Roxanne
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 8:57 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Cooling upgrade

As for the fan and oil clutch, seems to me I have heard of guys going to the
junk yard, and pulling off the heavy duty 7 blade fan and clutch from a
Toronado or 98 . Flex-A-Lite makes a dandy light weight performance fan that
pulls in up to 50% more air, and is rated up to 7000 RPM. It fit's on the
OEM mounts. Just a thought.
Rick
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "vze210y3" <vze210y3@verizon.net>
To: "Olds List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 6:11 PM
Subject: Cooling upgrade


> I'm fed up with my wimpy cooling system, which is, no doubt, the result of
a
> previous owner cannibalizing the good stuff from the car and leaving me
with
> a 3-core radiator, no shroud, and no clutch fan.  So now I need parts.
> Everything seems pretty available except the sheet metal.  I know I need a
> new top plate (no bosses or holes for the shroud and brackets too narrow).
> What should I expect to pay and where do you think I could find one?
Also,
> does anything major need to happen with the core support or do I just need
> new, wider brackets at the bottom?  How 'bout the pulley that the clutch
fan
> would mount to?  And while I'm at it, what is the prevailing opinion on
> water pumps?  I've watched the threads on balancers, so I think I know
what
> I want to do with that.  I want to stay as correct as possible, but given
my
> recent boredom with the show circuit and the trophy thing, I'm more
> interested in good cooling on those rare but enjoyable 90 degree
> Massachusetts days.  'Don't want to drive around with gallons of coolant
and
> spare hoses in the trunk anymore.  Thanks in advance!
> Scott
> 71 442 Conv.
> 75 Delta 88 Royale
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 22:03:05 -0700
From: geo.aigel@sbcglobal.net
Subject: 66 and 67 oil filler tubes on CA cars???

List!

I have gotten a request for oil filler tubes trough other 66 bits that I am 
selling on evilbay. Now I am puzzled. What's special about CA oil filler 
tubes? I sense some heat. The CA cars had the air injection! May these 
filler tubes be the SAME than the tri-carb pieces to clear some of the air 
induction stuff???

TIA, George
71 442
71 C/S ragtop
71 S parting, inquire!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 01:14:30 -0500
From: "Scott White" <scottwhite98@hotmail.com>
Subject: 2004 Nationals (and tic toc tach!)

Hello all, again-

Got back from the Nats yesterday.   Last Nationals I went to was Lansing in 
'02, so this was a bit of a let down.  Not used to the traffic so I say  
MLPS/STPL ought be darned to heck by Phil, the prince of insufficent 
lighting.

Saw some new cars but didn't find any like mine ('70 Cutlass Supreme HT 
coupe #14 platinum w/black vinyl, and '55 Super 88 HT sedan blue/blue).   
Did pick up a hood for the '55 (along with two fenders that I definately did 
NOT have room for), a new 8-track housing face from H&H (to replace the one 
I bought with a smudge), a custom made red triangle "Oldsmobile Service" 
sign  (for WAY too much $$).

And a Tic Toc Tach.   I will delight the list with a heroic tale.

So, here I am browsing the goods at the swap meet. I find the hood for my 
'55 and earmark it for another trip around.  I find a rear quarter for my CS 
for $500 and freak out.  Yea, there was a lot of price coordinated freaking 
out.  I saw a '71 decklid advertised as a 70 decklid, yours for $100 (I knew 
it was '71 cuz the script).  And, I saw a lot of junque. Then I found a 
vendor with TWO complete Rallye packs.  He wanted $650 for the gauges and 
the tach/clock.  I, however, already have the gauge pod.   He would not 
separate the two.  Ah ha!  He informed me that another poor soul stopped by 
who already had the tach, but not the gauge pod.  I gave the vendor my name 
and number and requested that we hook up later.

I come back the next day and it turns out the other guy never came back.   
I'm  irritated 'cuz I'm REALLY interested in the tach and my pocketbook was 
relatively fat.  I could have it if only I could find someone to take that 
blasted gauge pod!  And then, the clouds broke and a beam of light hit a man 
approaching the tent. The light guided him my way. It dropped him right in 
front of the gauge pod.  Turns out this heaven sent stranger was not the 
unnamed first interested party. Out of the blue, on Saturday, two rallye 
pack half-owners found each other. It was as close to an oldsmomiracle as 
one can get.  Anyway, I stole the Tach/clock for $400.

I still sigh when I see it.

Does anyone have a clue on how to hook this thing up right?

Thanks.



On digest mode
Scott White
93 Cutlass Supreme S (POS driver)
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (front end hurt)
70 Cutlass Supreme  (crying tears of neglect)
55 Super 88 (Needs work. Volunteers?)

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5006
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