
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 8 2004      Volume 01 : Number 5085



Re: Water Pump
The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]
Re: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]
Putting the '65 up for sale
Re: Putting the '65 up for sale
Re: Water Pump
Water Pump
Re: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]
Re: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]
Re: Water Pump
RE: Steering boxes
RE: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]
Re: 425 Magnetic Oil Drain Plug?????
JWO oversight?
Dangling 68 Toro
Re: Water Pump
Re: Water Pump
67 Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Water Pump
Seatbelts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 18:31:03 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

> car is now running....still overheating (as it was before
> anyhow)...but running nonetheless LOL.


Torry,

Your radiator may be plugged, causing the over heating. I'd check the
radiator.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 18:37:14 -0700
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
Subject: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]

I went and took the wife and kids to see 'The Incredibles' today.
Those of you unfamiliar with the movie, it's computer animated by Pixar.

In one scene, Mr. Incredible is leaving his house... and plain as day in the
driveway across the street is a 1965 442. I nearly fell out of my seat. I
whispered to my wife 'Look! A '65 442'. She stared at me oddly.  :-)

Karl Sup
Mesa, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 18:14:58 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]

>and plain as day in the
>driveway across the street is a 1965 442. I nearly fell out of my seat. I
>whispered to my wife 'Look! A '65 442'. She stared at me oddly.  :-)


He, he... and my wife cringed in horror when the robot squashed the 56/57 
Buick near the end.

I love my girl. ;-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 21:52:00 -0500
From: "Daniel Burk" <dan@ws6transam.org>
Subject: Putting the '65 up for sale

I'm selling the project. I wont have time to work on it for probably a year,
so rather than let it sit around, it's up for sale.

Running '65 Olds F85 club coupe with 330 2bbl, and what appears to be a
Turbo 350 transmission.
Pictures are here:
http://www.ws6transam.org/f85

$1050, includes a center console, and factory interior fabric selection
guide.

Email me if you need any other details. Located in Haslett, Michigan near
Lansing.

Clear title.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 22:01:12 -0500
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Putting the '65 up for sale

Dan...is this a whole car?

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2004 03:55:10 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

At 06:48 PM 11/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Nevermind.....was just stuck, had to beat it with a hammer and screwdriver
>and all is well....car is now running....still overheating (as it was before
>anyhow)...but running nonetheless LOL.

Doesn't look to me like anyone replied to you, and I'm sorry bout that.
Unfortunately, I don't think very many hereabouts know anything about the
FWD bubblemobiles; I know I don't. So the lack of response is very likely
due to nobody knowing anything to help rather than nobody WANTING to help  ;o|

Glad you finally got it running again. Did you change the thermostat?
ALWAYS install a new thermostat whenever you expose the old one such as
when changing the water pump.

Perhaps your radiator is clogged. Perhaps the electric fans aren't turning
on when they should? When does it overheat, and how hot does it actually
get? What other symptoms do you have, such as the overflow tank overflowing?

OH..... one thing: the radiator cap. I have no idea what your stock cap's
pressure is supposed to be but imagine it's in the 14-15 lbs range. A 50-50
mix of antifreeze/water will boil at 258 degrees at sea level when the
cooling system will pressurize to 15 lbs. If your cap is no longer able to
hold the pressure, your coolant will boil sooner. When that happens, there
are voids throughout the heads and around the cylinders where the coolant
is boiling, not making liquid contact with the metal and thus the metal
will get even hotter, potentially causing a runaway overheating condition.
Your cooling system MUST be sealed and able to hold pressure in order for
the coolant to be able to heat above 212 degrees (at sea level atmospheric
pressure) and not boil.

Other possibilities that have befuddled others: collapsing radiator hoses,
caused either by rotted-away springs inside that no longer hold the hose's
shape, or a major coolant blockage somewhere that causes the water pump to
suck the hose flat. This is particularly prevalent on the lower hose
because that's the inlet to the pump, and that hose also gets oily/greasy,
thus becomes very soft after awhile which allows it to collapse easier.

It may help to use a digital thermometer to measure the radiator's inlet
and outlet temperatures. I've done this before, by using electronics heat
sink compound to insure the thermistor made good contact to the radiator's
metal inlet and outlet tubes. Typically, for my 1988 fullsized wagon with
307, I've seen about 30 to 35 degrees temperature differential between
inlet and outlet. That'll likely vary some on different cars with different
engines and radiator sizes, of course.

SteveH
SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 22:17:12 -0600
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Water Pump

When I find a radiator is no longer doing the job, I 
have it re-cored.  Works every time, only takes a 
couple hours to have it done.  Even though all my 
radiators are non standard (4 rows), they always 
seem to have a core for it on hand.

Bruce Roe

7 Nov 2004 "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com> writes:
> > car is now running....still overheating (as it was
> > before anyhow)...but running nonetheless LOL.

> Torry,
> 
> Your radiator may be plugged, causing the over 
> heating. I'd check the radiator.
> 
> Milton Schick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 05:56:52 -0500
From: "Pat Swanton \"swanny\"" <swannys78@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]

Now I'm gonna have to go with the wifey and kids to see it. LOL ;-)

Cheers
Pat Swanton
Winchester NH
1978 Cutlass Supreme
http://www.cardomain.com/id/swannys78
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 8:37 PM
Subject: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]


>I went and took the wife and kids to see 'The Incredibles' today.
> Those of you unfamiliar with the movie, it's computer animated by Pixar.
>
> In one scene, Mr. Incredible is leaving his house... and plain as day in 
> the
> driveway across the street is a 1965 442. I nearly fell out of my seat. I
> whispered to my wife 'Look! A '65 442'. She stared at me oddly.  :-)
>
> Karl Sup
> Mesa, AZ
>
>
>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 08:29:38 -0500
From: Michael McDonald <McDonald_M@72ho.com>
Subject: Re: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]

On Sunday, Nov 7th Karl Sup wrote:

>I went and took the wife and kids to see 'The Incredibles' 
>today. Those of you unfamiliar with the movie, it's computer 
>animated by Pixar.
>
>In one scene, Mr. Incredible is leaving his house... and 
>plain as day in the driveway across the street is a 1965 
>442. I nearly fell out of my seat. I whispered to my 
>wife 'Look! A '65 442'. She stared at me oddly.  :-)
>
>Karl Sup
>Mesa, AZ


Hi Karl,

Thanks for that bit of movie trivia!  I've been teaching my 
eight year old son to spot old Oldsmobiles.  I'll take him to 
this movie as a "test". 

P.S. Loved your Halloween pumpkin decoration.  Can't wait to 
see what you do for Thanksgiving! 

Best wishes,
Mike McDonald
McDonald_M@72ho.com

1972 Hurst/Olds sunroof coupe
    "as seen on Speed TV"
   The American Musclecar    
            or
        www.72ho.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 08:54:56 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water Pump

- -------------------------------1099922096
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just completed my water pump installation. Has anyone noticed a shim on the  
passenger side between the pump and the block? The reason I mention this is 
that  before I replaced the pump I noticed the belt was out of alignment..just a 
 bit. I placed a shim between the pump and the block and  that corrected the 
problem. I'm wondering if my going through water pumps  every couple of years 
was a normal occurrence or maybe, because of the lack of  the shim, the belt 
was out of alignment all this time.
 
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

- -------------------------------1099922096
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2523" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
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e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>Just completed my water pump installation. Has anyone noticed a shim on=
 the=20
passenger side between the pump and the block? The reason I mention this is=20=
that=20
before I replaced the pump I noticed the belt was out of alignment..just a=20
bit.&nbsp;I placed a shim&nbsp;between the pump and the block and=20
that&nbsp;corrected the problem. I'm wondering if my going through water pum=
ps=20
every couple of years was a normal occurrence or maybe, because of the lack=20=
of=20
the shim, the belt&nbsp;was out of alignment&nbsp;all this time.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1099922096--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 09:02:16 -0500 
From: Tom Bejma <tomcb@prplastics.com>
Subject: RE: Steering boxes

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Hartlieb [mailto:62oldsfan@verizon.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 4:15 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Steering boxes
> 
> 
> My steering gear box needs some work.  My mechanic suggested 
> the steering store.com.  I remember someone here recently 
> talking about their gear box.  Was it from this place?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> 


See Below...
 
> Paul,
> 	I've been away from the PC and basically my cars this 
> summer.  What was 
> the vendor for the P/S rebuild?  I didn't see it searching 
> thru my Real 
> time olds posts.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Steve


Update on the Steering Box...

Sent it out UPS Ground last Monday, got the call back that it was done on
Thursday.  Ended up that they had a '69 box on the shelf with the ratio
already done, I just paid for the firm feel conversion ($125)!

This Monday the FedEx guy dropped off a freshly sandblasted steering box
including the rubber coupler (sent mine without it).

It will probably be a couple of months before I get to actually try it on
the car, but if service is any indication, it should perform very well.

Tom Bejma
Harrison Twp., MI
69 Cutlass S Convertible
[H/O Reproduction]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Bejma [mailto:tomcb@prplastics.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 9:17 AM
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: steering gear box rebuilds
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with Tom at Stear and Gear.  Nice guy. 
>  Discount
> honored.  My box will be going out this week.  Definitely a 
> MUST to go with
> my Global West Upper/Lower Tubular Control Arm/Coil-Over set up.
> 
> In case anyone needs the shipping information it's:
> 
> Steer and Gear
> 1000 Barnett Rd.
> Columbus, OH  43227
> 
> Send UPS/FedEx and include:  Name, address, phone, year, 
> model, quoted price
> (just in case Tom doesn't open it).
> 
> GREAT price for my '69 box.  Even a local company wanted $200 
> for the same
> job.  Thanks Joe for helping us out.  Will update the list 
> when it gets
> back.  
> 
> How did yours turn out Joe? (guess I should have asked before 
> I decided to
> go with these guys ;-)
> 
> Tom Bejma
> Harrison Twp., MI
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 73H/O OLDSRIP [mailto:jtmwalt@netsync.net]
> > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:18 AM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: steering gear box rebuilds
> > 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Last year at this time I set up a discount for steering gear 
> > box rebuilds from a place called Steer & Gear in Coloumbus,
> > Ohio. I just got off the phone with him and our discount is
> > still good.  I am sending him a box for his firm feel
> > conversion and rebuild/reseal.
> > The firm feel conversion is where he changes the torsion rod, 
> > (I think thats correct) in the box.
> > He can also change the ratio if you want that.
> > 
> > The prices are:
> > 
> > Firm feel conversion and rebuild is $125.00, regular price 
> is $165.00
> > The faster ratio and firm feel rebuild is $165.00, regular $ 210.00
> > 
> > Call Tom at 1-(800) 253-4327, tell him that your from the 
> > Olds internet list.
> > 
> > Joe Walters
> > 73 H/O
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2004 09:36:38 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]

Why did she stare at you oddly?  Did she confuse it with a 64?


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser




>From: "Karl Sup" <droldslives@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: The Incredibles [Olds Sighting]
>Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 18:37:14 -0700
Snip
>In one scene, Mr. Incredible is leaving his house... and plain as day in 
>the
>driveway across the street is a 1965 442. I nearly fell out of my seat. I
>whispered to my wife 'Look! A '65 442'. She stared at me oddly.  :-)
Snip

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 09:58:41 EST
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: 425 Magnetic Oil Drain Plug?????

In a message dated 11/7/04 5:11:25 PM Pacific  Standard Time,  k0xp@dandy.net 
writes:
What you could do, since you do  have a fairly wide surface on that large
drain plug, is to epoxy a magnet to  its baskside. There's enough room. Devon
Epoxy Steel Putty should be  chemically stable enough to withstand continuous
hot oil emmersion. The Right  Stuff gasket sealer might also work to glue a
magnet to the drain plug.  

Steve, Listers,
      I think I recall seeing the plug you are  referring to and it is huge.  
Why can't you take a good magnet and just  stick it to the inside of the plug 
and be done with it?  We have some  magnets at work that really stick to a 
metal surface and are just about  impossible to remove.  I would think one of 
these would stay put when  installed in the pan no matter what.  Just my .02 
cent's worth,
the other Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2004 10:14:20 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: JWO oversight?

Hmmmm... November JWO has on page 11 several corrections/ additions to the 
2004 Nats awards list, including some Best of Class that were not initially 
mentioned...

Conspicuously absent is any mention of my efforts, contrary to our 
agreement.

Mr. Casey says he has forwarded the relevant info to Mr. Blood, who is 
supposed to see to it that this matter is taken care of. Let's hope so. That 
WAS the agreement after all.

I also pointed out this oversight to the JWO editor[s] as I submitted my 
Oldsifieds ad text for the next issue. Speaking of which, it's also very 
CONVEEEEENIENT that they "forgot" to publish the ad I submitted last month 
seeking horror stories about the 2004 Nats from others. [They did manage to 
get the Parts For Sale portion in though] I guess they pick & choose what 
ads to run now, too, not simply editing the text to the nth degree. I 
re-iterated that, just because I got -almost- everything that I asked for in 
the dispute settlement, that does NOT mean that I am no longer interested in 
hearing about others' woes. And, I submitted similar text again, for the 
MISCELLANEOUS heading.

- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 2004 10:22:23 -0500
From: "Christopher Witt" <rocketscience442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Dangling 68 Toro

Went out to the farm yesterday to extract the drive cradle from the crusty 
old '68 Toro. Well, it's in the far back row, behind other cars, across a 
small ditch... Rocky might not even be able to do that. So, we cruise up the 
road to the next Hillbilly's place, who has many trucks, and large ones, 
too. Among them is a rather large boom service truck. He agrees to come on 
down and fish out the car for us. Takes an hour or so to get him moving, but 
that's ok.

His truck barely fit in my aisle. Boom reaches over, moves a 70's toro out 
of the way. Then we put chains on the 68's rear springs [thru the space that 
was the trunk floor], and the front suspension, and the crane lifts the 
entire car out of the back row and deposits in it the aisle, from which 
Rocky dragged it to the Final Dismantling site a few yards away, to give the 
Beastly Truck room to exit. I gave the neighbor one of the massive chains I 
got from Padnos last week for his trouble.

Black rusted entire 1968 Toro dangling from the chains/ rope...

That was cool. And, wouldn't ya know it, the camera was.... sitting in the 
cupboard at home.
:-(

Anyhow, ol' boy's hleper gets down to GA and back regularly, and might be 
able to find me a '68 post coupe body shell, trade for my rusty old good 
running Jeep CJ7. That'd be cool.

4-piston calipers on that there '68 Toro...
Destined to be part of the dual-engine 1958 Wagon that Dr. Oldmobile is 
concocting.
- -----------------------
Chris Witt
1303 W. Miller Rd.
Lansing MI 48911

RocketScience442@hotmail.com

Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message.
Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days

_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 22:46:04 -0000 (GMT)
From: "Torry Crass" <torryc@thinkingimpared.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

Actually it only overheats when sitting stationary for a period of around
10 minutes.  And the radiator water starts to boil so I know that it's
circulating.  The water is just not cooling enough because the fan does
not appear to be kicking on as it should...I don't know if the fan itself
is shot or if it's a connection issue or something, hard to say.

~Torry

>> car is now running....still overheating (as it was before
>> anyhow)...but running nonetheless LOL.
>
>
> Torry,
>
> Your radiator may be plugged, causing the over heating. I'd check the
> radiator.
>
> Milton Schick
> 1964 442 Cutlass
> imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 22:54:07 -0000 (GMT)
From: "Torry Crass" <torryc@thinkingimpared.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

Thanks for the reply on the heating issue.  The fan is not turning
(problem #1) no I wasn't aware of having to change the thermostat or where
it's located even (problem #2).  I do know there is a small radiator leak
somewhere near the outlet hose on the right side of the radiator (will fix
that come thursday when I have $$ since I'm down to nothing after this
repair LOL problem #3).  We filled it with almost exclusively water last
night, so probably need to get some anti-freeze for it and add that to the
mix ASAP as well as invest in a new radiator cap since it is fairly old
(problems #4 & #5).  On a positive note, I did check the hoses and they
are all very taught and not easily collapsable and as I noted, the water
"is" heating up to boiling point which means it is circulating...but if
the car sits and idles for too long it does overheat.  I feel because of a
combination of the above issues but mainly due to the lack of the fan
turning.  I might have a brief look at it tonight and see if it's a
connection issue.   One additional question I might have regarding it
though, is that fan linked to a fuse by chance that might have blown or
something?

~Torry

Thanks again.




> At 06:48 PM 11/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>>Nevermind.....was just stuck, had to beat it with a hammer and
>> screwdriver and all is well....car is now running....still overheating
>> (as it was before anyhow)...but running nonetheless LOL.
>
> Doesn't look to me like anyone replied to you, and I'm sorry bout that.
> Unfortunately, I don't think very many hereabouts know anything about
> the FWD bubblemobiles; I know I don't. So the lack of response is very
> likely due to nobody knowing anything to help rather than nobody WANTING
> to help  ;o|
>
> Glad you finally got it running again. Did you change the thermostat?
> ALWAYS install a new thermostat whenever you expose the old one such as
> when changing the water pump.
>
> Perhaps your radiator is clogged. Perhaps the electric fans aren't
> turning on when they should? When does it overheat, and how hot does it
> actually get? What other symptoms do you have, such as the overflow tank
> overflowing?
>
> OH..... one thing: the radiator cap. I have no idea what your stock
> cap's pressure is supposed to be but imagine it's in the 14-15 lbs
> range. A 50-50 mix of antifreeze/water will boil at 258 degrees at sea
> level when the cooling system will pressurize to 15 lbs. If your cap is
> no longer able to hold the pressure, your coolant will boil sooner. When
> that happens, there are voids throughout the heads and around the
> cylinders where the coolant is boiling, not making liquid contact with
> the metal and thus the metal will get even hotter, potentially causing a
> runaway overheating condition. Your cooling system MUST be sealed and
> able to hold pressure in order for the coolant to be able to heat above
> 212 degrees (at sea level atmospheric pressure) and not boil.
>
> Other possibilities that have befuddled others: collapsing radiator
> hoses, caused either by rotted-away springs inside that no longer hold
> the hose's shape, or a major coolant blockage somewhere that causes the
> water pump to suck the hose flat. This is particularly prevalent on the
> lower hose because that's the inlet to the pump, and that hose also gets
> oily/greasy, thus becomes very soft after awhile which allows it to
> collapse easier.
>
> It may help to use a digital thermometer to measure the radiator's inlet
> and outlet temperatures. I've done this before, by using electronics
> heat sink compound to insure the thermistor made good contact to the
> radiator's metal inlet and outlet tubes. Typically, for my 1988
> fullsized wagon with 307, I've seen about 30 to 35 degrees temperature
> differential between inlet and outlet. That'll likely vary some on
> different cars with different engines and radiator sizes, of course.
>
> SteveH
> SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 19:01:35 -0500
From: "Jay Britt" <jbritt67@cox.net>
Subject: 67 Cutlass Parts For Sale

I have some good sheet metal for my 67 Cutlass convertible project that
didn't quite work out. And, I'm going to be losing my storage space soon so
I need to make a deal. I don't want to ship large items like these so I'm
trying find anyone within driving distance of Virginia Beach, VA that could
use this stuff. As always, the prices are negotiable, just don't hurt me too
bad.

You can see my list using the link below. If it's too long, just use the
link in my sig file. If I can't find any interest on this list, I'll have to
play the deadbeat bidder game again on eBay.

http://members.cox.net/jbritt67/parts4sale.html

Hit me off list at jbritt67@cox.net

Jay Britt
OCA#29460
67 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe
99 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
http://members.cox.net/jbritt67

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 19:17:57 -0500
From: "ron fama" <77w30442@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

the water may not be flowing enough to cool engine. i chimed in late but here are a few things. 
impeller on pump ,thermostat, rad, and cooling fan,
ron
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Torry Crass" <torryc@thinkingimpared.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: Water Pump


> Actually it only overheats when sitting stationary for a period of around
> 10 minutes.  And the radiator water starts to boil so I know that it's
> circulating.  The water is just not cooling enough because the fan does
> not appear to be kicking on as it should...I don't know if the fan itself
> is shot or if it's a connection issue or something, hard to say.
>
> ~Torry
>
>>> car is now running....still overheating (as it was before
>>> anyhow)...but running nonetheless LOL.
>>
>>
>> Torry,
>>
>> Your radiator may be plugged, causing the over heating. I'd check the
>> radiator.
>>
>> Milton Schick
>> 1964 442 Cutlass
>> imp@theriver.com
>
>
>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 20:54:11 -0500
From: "Kurt Heinrich" <old442@adelphia.net>
Subject: Seatbelts

According to the build sheet, my '71 SX convertible came with option AK1
which is "deluxe seat belt option, lap deluxe front and rear and deluxe
front shoulder".  I have the latch portion for the shoulder belt between the
front seat and the console and the holders for the shoulder belts on the
front of the rear armrests, but cannot locate the rest of the shoulder belt.
I've looked through all my manuals and cannot find where the shoulder belt
mounted in a convertible, even the Fisher body manual did not show the
shoulder belts in a convertible.  Does anyone know where they were mounted?

Thanks,
Kurt Heinrich
OCA# 30442
71 Cutlass Supreme SX Convertible

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5085
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