
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, November 2 2004      Volume 01 : Number 5079



Need Tunnel Ram For 350
RE: compressors & tools
trunk light
Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes
Re: compressors & tools
Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes
Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes
Re: compressors & tools
Re: What's a spoiler called? Group #?
Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes
Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes
1966 Olds 98 vibrates
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates
Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates
Water pump
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Re: compressors & tools
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates
Re: Happy Halloween!!
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
UNBOUNCE: '62 Starfire Aluminum Side Moldings
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates
trunk light
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
RE: compressors & tools
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA
Water pump
Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 02:27:37 EST
From: ArchwayOldsClub@aol.com
Subject: Need Tunnel Ram For 350

Okay fellas,
 
    I need a four barrel tunnel ram for a 350. Who can  help me?
Please respond to _ThreePalmsRacing@aol.com_ 
(mailto:ThreePalmsRacing@aol.com) 
 
Thanks
Darren P-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 05:49:48 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: compressors & tools

I think the key to keeping up with the volume is the size of the tank. Mine
is only 6 gallons and 4.3 cfm @ 40psi or 3.0 cfm @ 90 psi. I rarely use
impact tools but I should be able to run them in short bursts.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

My Campbell Hausfield portable wheeled compressor with 125 psi maximum at
3.5 CFM, 90 psi at 6.6 CFM, and 20 gallon tank runs a 1/2" impact wrench
fine, if that helps.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 05:40:42 -0600
From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
Subject: trunk light

Does anybody have a trunk light for a 1970 cutlass?
Bob :-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 07:06:54 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes

> Did the paperclip trick, and the diagnostic codes are oxygen sensor (13)
> and coolant sensor (14), though I haven't had any overheating problems.
> Maybe that's just in there from a while ago. Car is an 85 Delta 88.

Coolant sensor being high resistance will make the ECM think the engine is
cold and run rich after warmup. I'd check that first before messing with the
O2 sensor.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 07:09:30 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: compressors & tools

> The compressor I bought is a Porter Cable 6 gallon 150psi unit. It says it
> can run simultaneously: 6 brad guns, 6 staplers, 4 finish nail guns, 2
> framing nail guns, or 2 roofing nail guns. Do you think it can run an
impact
> wrench?

Not for more than a few seconds, but often that's enough to loosen those
nasty stuck bolts.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 07:23:59 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes

> >As far as I know, it's the original oxygen sensor. Do they go
> >bad after a while?
>
> Usually well after 100K miles.

- ----------------

You have had amazingly good luck with oxygen sensors.  Most of the ones I
have checked out were getting lazy by 40k miles.  Maybe not bad enough to
set a hard code, but bad enough to cause a noticeable perfromance and
economy drop.

Note that the GM one wire sensor ('81-early / mid  '90's) used the area
where the wire exits the sensor housing for its reference air sample.  On
some cars, grease, oil or glop can cause faulty reference readings and screw
up the operation.  Also can be caused by improper installation (buy or
borrow the proper socket if you can't get at it with a combination wrench)
or splicing the wire.

I agree with Steve that you are best off with an OE sensor.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 07:16:29 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <fsnissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes

> Did the paperclip trick, and the diagnostic codes are oxygen sensor (13)
> and coolant sensor (14), though I haven't had any overheating problems.
> Maybe that's just in there from a while ago. Car is an 85 Delta 88.
>
> I'm going to replace the oxygen sensor. Could that be causing the strong
> exhaust smell--the engine running too rich? As far as I know, it's the
> original oxygen sensor. Do they go bad after a while?

- -----------------

Yes, it could cause rich running.  Yes, they go bad over time.  I tend to
replace them as a matter of course at 40k miles.  The improved fuel economy
pays for the replacement sensor pretty fast.

> Additionally, at AutoZone where I bought the sensor, they said my
> catalytic convertor might be bad. Any comments on this?

Maybe if it was running grossly rich for quite a while.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 08:23:28 -0500
From: OldsEnuf@webtv.net (Mark Sopp)
Subject: Re: compressors & tools

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John,
  There is not enough Bar Pressure to operate high demand air tools like
impact guns and air sanders using portable small tank compressors.
   Like they say,they`re great for nail guns....but that`s about it.

Markas

http://community.webtv.net/vfquick442/My1970442


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From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
To: "Olds Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: compressors & tools
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 21:27:10 -0500
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The compressor I bought is a Porter Cable 6 gallon 150psi unit. It says it
can run simultaneously: 6 brad guns, 6 staplers, 4 finish nail guns, 2
framing nail guns, or 2 roofing nail guns. Do you think it can run an impact
wrench? My brother says that a 3/8 wrench will need 120psi to run. So, I
have enough psi. Aside from that, I don't know how far 6 gallons capacity
will hold up against an impact wrench. The motor is 1.5 HP and seems to fill
the tank pretty quickly. I guess I'll find out, eh?

John Nasta





- --WebTV-Mail-27613-1448--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 8:50:07 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <62oldsfan@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: What's a spoiler called? Group #?

> what did they call the spoiler as used on oh say the Rallye 350?
> Not lsited under S for spoiler or W for Wing

Should be called a spoiler.

> Group number?

12.181, same as the rear compartment lid.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 09:05:23 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes

At Monday, 1 November 2004, you wrote:

>> >As far as I know, it's the original oxygen sensor. Do they go
>> >bad after a while?
>>
>> Usually well after 100K miles.
>
>----------------
>
>You have had amazingly good luck with oxygen sensors.  Most 
>of the ones I have checked out were getting lazy by 40k 
>miles.  Maybe not bad enough to set a hard code, but bad 
>enough to cause a noticeable perfromance and economy drop.

Fred, do me a favor to confirm what I found: next time you've got 
a "lazy" one, try heating it in a flame till red hot, while monitoring 
its output with a DMM, until the output swings easily as you move 
it in and out of the flame. Then reinstall it and see how it does 
over time. Presuming the engine isn't mistuned to begin with and 
fouls it up immediately, I'm wondering whether one can't bring the 
majority of those OE types back for an encore. There was schtuff 
that flickered and flashed off the first time I put the fire to it,
as if the fire were burning off schtuff.

I've only had the one original on the BBA go bad, so far, over 4 
years so I've not had a chance to try this on any others.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 09:15:39 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Check engine light on/strong exhaust fumes

At Monday, 1 November 2004, you wrote:
>Fred, do me a favor to confirm what I found: next time you've got 
>a "lazy" one, try heating it in a flame till red hot, while monitoring 
>its output with a DMM, until the output swings easily as you move 
>it in and out of the flame. Then reinstall it and see how it does 
>over time. Presuming the engine isn't mistuned to begin with and 
>fouls it up immediately, I'm wondering whether one can't bring the 
>majority of those OE types back for an encore. There was schtuff 
>that flickered and flashed off the first time I put the fire to it,
>as if the fire were burning off schtuff.
>
>I've only had the one original on the BBA go bad, so far, over 4 
>years so I've not had a chance to try this on any others.

Come to think of it, if anybody has a "bad" one that is otherwise 
in good physical shape (i.e.: nothing obviously wrong with it), I'd 
like to get it to try the above tests.

SteveH



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 14:20:15 +0000
From: Oldscarguy@comcast.net
Subject: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

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Hello,

I am having a problem where once my Olds 98 gets up to highway speeds (55-75) it starts to vibrate intermittently.  It will run smooth for a while, then start to vibrate, and then smooth out again over and over.  The vibration also changes.  It will shift from the seat/floor to the steering wheel and back again.  Here is what I have done on the car.  New tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, lower ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, rear suspension bushings, and I have alignment checked regularly (current alignment is 2 months old).  The wheels have all of the balancing weights.  About the only thing that I have not replaced are the U-joints, driveshaft and springs.  Two shops have told me the drive shaft is good, but niether put it on a balancing machine.  The U-joints are not sticky and seem to have no play.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim Bender
OCA #036909
- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_17396_1099318815_0
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<html><body>
<DIV>Hello,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I am having a problem where once my Olds 98 gets up to highway speeds (55-75) it starts to vibrate intermittently.&nbsp; It will run smooth for a while,&nbsp;then start to vibrate, and then smooth out again over and over.&nbsp; The vibration also changes.&nbsp; It will shift from the seat/floor to the steering wheel and back again.&nbsp; Here is what I have done on the car.&nbsp; New tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, lower ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, rear suspension bushings, and I have alignment checked regularly (current alignment is 2 months old).&nbsp; The wheels have all of the balancing weights.&nbsp; About the only thing that I have not replaced are the U-joints, driveshaft and springs.&nbsp; Two shops have told me the drive shaft is good, but niether put it on a balancing machine.&nbsp;&nbsp;The&nbsp;U-joints are not sticky and seem to have no play.&nbsp; Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Tim Bender</DIV>
<DIV>OCA #036909</DIV></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_17396_1099318815_0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 15:03:45 +0000
From: cfair@att.net
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

Have the driveshaft balanced. I had mine done on my 66 '98 and it helped I think I paid $200 years ago. While it's out take care of the u-joints, especially if you don't know how old they are.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Oldscarguy@comcast.net
> Hello,
> 
> I am having a problem where once my Olds 98 gets up to highway speeds (55-75) it 
> starts to vibrate intermittently.  It will run smooth for a while, then start to 
> vibrate, and then smooth out again over and over.  The vibration also changes.  
> It will shift from the seat/floor to the steering wheel and back again.  Here is 
> what I have done on the car.  New tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, lower 
> ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, rear suspension bushings, and I have 
> alignment checked regularly (current alignment is 2 months old).  The wheels 
> have all of the balancing weights.  About the only thing that I have not 
> replaced are the U-joints, driveshaft and springs.  Two shops have told me the 
> drive shaft is good, but niether put it on a balancing machine.  The U-joints 
> are not sticky and seem to have no play.  Any ideas would be greatly 
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim Bender
OCA #036909

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 07:16:36 -0800
From: Greg Tjosvold <tjosvold@polar7.com>
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

A shot in the dark. By any chance are you running bias ply tires? I lost an 
evil 60mph rear vibration on my 56 when I switched to radials.

Just a thought.

Nanook

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:31:37 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

At Monday, 01 November 2004, you wrote:
>Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

It's very likely your tires. If you've had all that done and nothing's 
changed it, you can bet on tires. I've had several sets of tires 
of different manufacturers and types over the past 4 years on several 
cars that caused intermittent shake, shimmy, strange noises and other 
seemingly-drivetrain problems that went away with new or different 
tires.

SteveH



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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 19:36:48 +0000
From: brad442@comcast.net
Subject: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_12504_1099337808_0
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http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2004_sema/leno/pages/index.htm
Check out the engine!
===================================  
 --- 
| | | Brad Nicholson 
| | | 1987 442 & 2001 Intrigue GLS 
|/|\| brad442@comcast.net 
| | | mywebpages.comcast.net/brad442 
 ---
- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_12504_1099337808_0
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<html><body>
<DIV><A href="http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2004_sema/leno/pages/index.htm"><FONT face="Courier New, Courier, mono" size=2>http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2004_sema/leno/pages/index.htm</FONT></A></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Courier New, Courier, mono" size=2>Check out the engine!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV class=signature id=signature><FONT face="Courier New, Courier, mono" size=2>===================================&nbsp; <BR>&nbsp;--- <BR>| | | Brad Nicholson <BR>| | | 1987 442 &amp; 2001 Intrigue GLS <BR>|/|\| brad442@comcast.net <BR>| | | mywebpages.comcast.net/brad442 <BR>&nbsp;---</FONT></DIV></body></html>

- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_12504_1099337808_0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:19:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Brooks <deaconblue1969@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

> It's very likely your tires. If you've had all that
> done and nothing's 
> changed it, you can bet on tires. > 
I couldn't agree more.  The cheapest way to check
tires is to move them around front to back, side to
side, and see if there's any affect.  

I miss the old days when they did the spin balance
while on the car.  You could sit behind the vehicle
when the tire is spinning and see tread squirm, jump,
etc. on bad tires.  And, any tire, regardless of type
and age, can be bad.

Good luck.

Bill B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 15:43:25 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Water pump

- -------------------------------1099341805
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

It's been two years since I replaced my stock GM water pump in my 72  
Cutlass. I've been driving a lot of highway miles at 4000-4500 rpms. The pump is  
starting to spray my valve covers from (Ithink) the weep hole.
It there any other water pump I can use that may be more durable than the  
stocker? Electric maybe?
Any help would be most appreciated.
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

- -------------------------------1099341805
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2523" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
Arial"=20
bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Drol=
e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>It's been two years since I replaced my stock GM water pump in my 72=20
Cutlass. I've been driving a lot of highway miles at 4000-4500 rpms. The pum=
p is=20
starting to spray my valve covers from (Ithink) the weep hole.</DIV>
<DIV>It there any other water pump I can use that may be more durable than t=
he=20
stocker? Electric maybe?</DIV>
<DIV>Any help would be most appreciated.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1099341805--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 16:16:40 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@postoffice.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

At 02:36 PM 11/1/2004, you wrote:
><http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2004_sema/leno/pages/index.htm>http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2004_sema/leno/pages/index.htm
>Check out the engine!

THAT is insane!

Has that been converted to RWD as well?

>  ---

_______________________________________
Bob Barry  MailTo:rbarry@providence.edu
http://home.off-road.com/~wagoneer/ 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 16:29:06 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: compressors & tools

Mark Sopp wrote:
> John,
>   There is not enough Bar Pressure to operate high demand air tools like
> impact guns and air sanders using portable small tank compressors.
>    Like they say,they`re great for nail guns....but that`s about it.
> 
> Markas
> 
> http://community.webtv.net/vfquick442/My1970442
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject:
> compressors & tools
> From:
> "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
> Date:
> Sun, 31 Oct 2004 21:27:10 -0500
> To:
> "Olds Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> 
> 
> The compressor I bought is a Porter Cable 6 gallon 150psi unit. It says it
> can run simultaneously: 6 brad guns, 6 staplers, 4 finish nail guns, 2
> framing nail guns, or 2 roofing nail guns. Do you think it can run an impact
> wrench? My brother says that a 3/8 wrench will need 120psi to run. So, I
> have enough psi. Aside from that, I don't know how far 6 gallons capacity
> will hold up against an impact wrench. The motor is 1.5 HP and seems to fill
> the tank pretty quickly. I guess I'll find out, eh?
> 
> John Nasta
> 
> 
> 
> 
Hi John
     My small craftsman compressor about the same size as the one you 
spoke of runs my 1/2 inch impact just fine. I do have to wait for the 
compressor to catch up once in a while. It also runs my 3/8 air ratchet 
and my air drill.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 17:19:09 -0500
From: SteveH <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

At Monday, 1 November 2004, you wrote:
>I miss the old days when they did the spin balance
>while on the car.  You could sit behind the vehicle
>when the tire is spinning and see tread squirm, jump,
>etc. on bad tires.  And, any tire, regardless of type
>and age, can be bad.

So, why did they stop that, anybody know??

And yes, new tires can have problems. The 235/60-15 Yoko Avids I 
bought in August have some kind of problem that balancing on the 
machine hasn't fixed. I'm not real happy about that.

SteveH



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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 18:17:20 -0500
From: "ftfunnyfarm" <ftfunnyfarm@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Happy Halloween!!

Great pic...I love it!!!!!!!!!

Tami

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 16:22:51 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

It would be nice to have just a small percentage of Jay's money. I would
like to know if Jay got his hands dirty and did any of the work himself.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <brad442@comcast.net>
To: "Oldsmobile Classic List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; "Olds G-Mail"
<oldsgmail@spots.ab.ca>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 12:36 PM
Subject: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA


> http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2004_sema/leno/pages/index.htm
> Check out the engine!
> ===================================
>  ---
> | | | Brad Nicholson
> | | | 1987 442 & 2001 Intrigue GLS
> |/|\| brad442@comcast.net
> | | | mywebpages.comcast.net/brad442
>  ---

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:16:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

I couldn't tell if that was actually an Olds engine or something else.
Anyone know?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:18:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '62 Starfire Aluminum Side Moldings

Not on the list, respond to accbus@ptd.com if you can assist. Isn't
someone repo'ing these?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
          Olds List Admin Info: http://oldslist.oldsgmail.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:   "Carol Heilimann" <Topaz@ptd.net>
Subject: 1962 Oldsmobile Starfire Aluminum Side Mouldings

I am looking for new aluminum moldings for my 62 Starfire. Please 
provide your information concerning these items. accbus@ptd.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 19:29:21 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

Listmembers,

It appears that the engine is a late model Brand C variety.  Even with twin 
turbos I'd bet that it still can't compare with the original 425 -- but I'm 
biased.......

Take Care,
SrA Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 17:02:35 -0800
From: "Rick & Roxanne" <aremessenger@icehouse.net>
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

Hi guys, just a little thought; when you checked your tires for balance
weights, were they only on the front, or were they on front and back of each
rim?. I tossed out ( I should say got a pittance of there worth in trade), a
perfectly good set of Dunlop's once because of vibration's; only to be told
by a tire expert that both sides of the rims must be balanced, NOT just the
outside, and that my old tires were fine. Most of the kids in these tire
shops now days, are in such a hurry that they only balance one side of the
rims.My 76 98 has the same exact vibration problem. And it has been doing
that since the first day I bought her. So before I put the old gal to bed
for the winter, I checked the rims. They were only balanced on one side. The
kid who sold me the car had the tires balanced 2 days before I got it. I
have since put only 650 miles on her ( all interstate miles), and when I get
up above 65, there's that vibration. I rebuilt my front end as well, and had
a thrust alignment done. My 97 4Runner is balanced on both sides, as is my
truck.

So before you "toss" some tires,check on that, and ask a real tire guy who
will take the time, and knows what he is talking about. Then again, it could
be bad tires........; been there, done that.

Rick Messenger
76 98 LS
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Brooks" <deaconblue1969@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates


>
> > It's very likely your tires. If you've had all that
> > done and nothing's
> > changed it, you can bet on tires. >
> I couldn't agree more.  The cheapest way to check
> tires is to move them around front to back, side to
> side, and see if there's any affect.
>
> I miss the old days when they did the spin balance
> while on the car.  You could sit behind the vehicle
> when the tire is spinning and see tread squirm, jump,
> etc. on bad tires.  And, any tire, regardless of type
> and age, can be bad.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Bill B.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 17:03:52 -0600
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: trunk light

If its one with the round snap on cover, and hole in the 
side for the bulb, I think I do.  Bruce Roe

1 Nov 2004  "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com> writes:
> Does anybody have a trunk light for a 1970 cutlass?
> Bob 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 21:50:45 +0000
From: Steve Harrison <k0xp@dandy.net>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

At 08:16 PM 11/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I couldn't tell if that was actually an Olds engine or something else.
>Anyone know?

Some sort of Ch*bby, someone on the classic reflector said a LT4 or LS6 or
something like that, whatever those are. The thing is claimed to make
something like 1086 hp. There's considerable debate whether it's been
converted to RWD or still has the TH425 under it. I think it's now sposed
to have a Vette suspension but notice it also still has the offset Toro
wheels.

SteveH

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 21:50:06 -0600
From: "Doug Newman" <newmand@oldsgmail.com>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

Guys, 

For those still curious, here's a story on it, straight from "The Chin"
himself...

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2004/10/28/266173.html 

Hit the "CLICK4VIDEO(2:22)" link at the top of the text.  Must be nice
to have that kind of $cratch...


Doug Newman                  1987 442              OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS                    

http://store.oldsgmail.com                             The Store    
http://newmand.oldsgmail.com                       My Home Page

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 22:54:24 -0500
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: compressors & tools

I've heard that from other people too. I'll give it a try and see what
happens. I need the portability for the nail gun and I don't have a place to
keep a big compressor. I'd imagine that at the very least I would be able to
power an impact wrench to break loose a stubborn bolt now and then, and for
smaller jobs w/ a 3/8 gun (too bad I gave away the Chicago Pneumatic 3/8
that I had).

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----

Hi John
     My small craftsman compressor about the same size as the one you
spoke of runs my 1/2 inch impact just fine. I do have to wait for the
compressor to catch up once in a while. It also runs my 3/8 air ratchet
and my air drill.
LOL
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 22:21:53 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

> I couldn't tell if that was actually an Olds engine or something else.
> Anyone know?
>
> Greg Beaulieu


I'll bet dollars-to-donuts that it's a GM corporate LS series engine, like a
LS1, due to the way the fuel injection system looks and the individual coil
arrangement on top of the valve covers. There's a bunch of people making
turbo systems, and twin turbo systems, for LS engines.

In the latest issue of Car Craft, the magazine staff takes a 325HP rated GM
Performance Parts bone stock crate LS1, complete with induction and computer
in the entire GM package, and get 402 HP at 5700 RPM and 398 pounds of
torque at 4300 RPM from the LS1 346 cube engine. The magazine does say that
GM engineers changed the computer program profile to a "street rod"
configuration. The was the only change from the standard production version
for a car.

If we applied the same techniques and computer control to our Olds engines,
we could do exactly the same thing, but it would cost a lot more money.

Whether or not the car is still FWD or has now been converted to RWD, I
don't know.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 22:24:44 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

Ken,

> It appears that the engine is a late model Brand C variety.  Even with
twin
> turbos I'd bet that it still can't compare with the original 425 -- but
I'm
> biased.......


I agree 1000% completely, even if the bastard thing is a LS1.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 00:11:24 -0600
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Jay Leno's '66 Toronado @ SEMA

Those new engines get the most power and economy out 
of a smaller engine.  WIth a little fuel injection and ignition 
work, our larger Olds can deliver pretty similar performance, 
just not quite the same fuel economy.  There are plenty of 
Olds powered motorhomes with such equipment.  But 
when they added those turbos, you can forget about fuel 
economy, a motorhome would do lots better.  

That tuned port setup is supposed to maximize the torque 
for the small block, getting a little more response per cube. 
But with those blowers, who needs tuned ports?  

If that is still a front driver, he is going to be spending 
plenty on tires, because there is no way for that power 
to get to the road.  

Bruce Roe


> I'll bet dollars-to-donuts that it's a GM corporate LS series 
> engine, like a LS1, due to the way the fuel injection system 
> looks and the individual coil arrangement 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 00:35:12 -0600
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: Water pump

You might try a 73-78 motorhome (Olds powered GMC) 
water pump.  If that pump wasn't OEM, failures are 
pretty common.

Bruce (uses only OEM water pumps) Roe

1 Nov 2004  JonKrisInc@aol.com writes:
> It's been two years since I replaced my stock GM water pump 
> in my 72 Cutlass. I've been driving a lot of highway miles at 
> 4000-4500 rpms.  The pump is starting to spray my valve 
> covers from (Ithink) the weep hole. Is there any other water 
> pump I can use that may be more durable than the  
> stocker? Electric maybe?

> Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2004 06:52:48 -0500
From: John Kelsey <ribspot@pop4.net>
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds 98 vibrates

SteveH wrote:

> At Monday, 1 November 2004, you wrote:
> 
>>I miss the old days when they did the spin balance
>>while on the car.  You could sit behind the vehicle
>>when the tire is spinning and see tread squirm, jump,
>>etc. on bad tires.  And, any tire, regardless of type
>>and age, can be bad.
> 
> 
> So, why did they stop that, anybody know??
> 
> And yes, new tires can have problems. The 235/60-15 Yoko Avids I 
> bought in August have some kind of problem that balancing on the 
> machine hasn't fixed. I'm not real happy about that.
> 
> SteveH
> 
> 
> 
> ===================================================================
> EASY access to your email http://webmail.dandy.net/mr2/nph-mr.cgi
> ===================================================================
> 
> 
> 
> 
Hi Steve
    Just for what it is worth I was told when computer balancers first 
came out it was the lowest common denominator factor. Virtually no 
training required so any idiot can balance a tire with one. I still have 
an old Hunter on-the-car balancer and cured several problems on my cars 
the computer balancer guys could not find or fix.
John Kelsey
Dayton Ohio

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5079
*********************************
