
oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 21 2004     Volume 01 : Number 5028



RF wheel Bearings
Re: Quick Clay Endorsement
RE: Quick Clay Endorsement
RE: Quick Clay Endorsement
Re: SSII brake clearance questions
No tail lights?  No brake lights?
Re: 81 Cutlass Diesel
Re: 50 + 50 != 100
WAS Bumper Shocks. now reg TH400---SP TH400
Re: Bumper Shocks.
headliner
RE: No tail lights? No brake lights?
Re: Diesel Questions - Was Re: 81 Cutlass
RE: No tail lights? No brake lights?
Re: No tail lights? No brake lights?
RE: headliner
RE: headliner
Seeping Pinion Seal
Re: No tail lights?  No brake lights?
Re: No tail lights?  No brake lights?
Re: headliner
Olds power windows
RE: Olds power windows
TH350C upshift; was RE: The flimsiness of Toys
50 + 50 != 100
WAS Bumper Shocks. now reg TH400---SP TH400
Re: Bumper Shocks.
TH350C upshift; was RE: The flimsiness of Toys
Re: TH350C upshift; was RE: The flimsiness of Toys

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 21:50:19 EDT
From: Gajs1410@aol.com
Subject: RF wheel Bearings

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Bill, Are you replacing the race when you replace your wheelbearings?  If 
not, that could be a remaining problem

Steve K.


In a message dated 9/18/2004 4:35:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 23:53:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Grumblatt Jr <wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 61 Dynamic 88

- - --0-1093508280-1095490404=:52973
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Seems yahoo's giving away a 61 Dynamic 88 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/customride nice ride   Was not sure of the 394 motor but there it was in the FAQ 
61-63    I can say I learnt something today...
On my 67 Delta 88 I keep going through RF wheel bearrings. I just don't get 
it, I'm lucky if I get a year out of that side, which equals around 5,00 
miles.Left side no problem, In the 30 or sooooooo years of greasing and replacing 
them on my other vehicles

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=3DUS-ASCII http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; cha=
rset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>Bill, Are you replacing the race when you replace your wheelbearings?&n=
bsp; If not, that could be a remaining problem</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Steve K.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/18/2004 4:35:08 PM Central Daylight Time, oldsmobi=
le-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT face=3DArial>Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 23:53:24 -0700 (PDT)<BR=
>From: William Grumblatt Jr &lt;wgrumblatt@sbcglobal.net&gt;<BR>Subject: 61=20=
Dynamic 88<BR><BR>- --0-1093508280-1095490404=3D:52973<BR>Content-Type: text=
/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii<BR><BR>Seems yahoo's giving away a 61 Dynamic 88=20=
http://promotions.yahoo.com/customride nice ride&nbsp;&nbsp; Was not sure of=
 the 394 motor but there it was in the FAQ 61-63&nbsp; &nbsp; I can say I le=
arnt something today...<BR>On my 67 Delta 88 I keep going through RF wheel b=
earrings. I just don't get it, I'm lucky if I get a year out of that side, w=
hich equals around 5,00 miles.Left side no problem, In the 30 or sooooooo ye=
ars of greasing and replacing them on my other vehicles</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><=
/DIV>
<DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 19:14:29 -0700
From: Kevin & Casey Olund <kcolund@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Quick Clay Endorsement

> Keep in mind that clay is abrasive. Probably not good for clear coats.
>

This one was quite mild. The box did say it was safe for clear coat use. There is an aggresive clay available though for
heavy oxidation / contaminant removal.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:38:12 -0700
From: Joe & Gloria Varley <carcouple@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Quick Clay Endorsement

Don't worry about Quick Clay on clear coats.  There are 3 grades of QC in 
the Meguiar's line, so you need to use the grit necessary to do the job, 
nothing more aggressive.  They are wonderful for clears that need to be 
"scrubbed up".  Use the least aggressive clay to do the job and they are 
pretty much idiot proof.

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 00:07:41 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Quick Clay Endorsement

I'm so out of the loop on this that I didn't know that "Quick Clay" is a
brand name. I thought it was a "quick" endorsement for clay cleaners in
general.

Frere Jacques dorme vu?

JN



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Joe & Gloria Varley
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 11:38 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Quick Clay Endorsement

Don't worry about Quick Clay on clear coats.  There are 3 grades of QC in
the Meguiar's line, so you need to use the grit necessary to do the job,
nothing more aggressive.  They are wonderful for clears that need to be
"scrubbed up".  Use the least aggressive clay to do the job and they are
pretty much idiot proof.

Joe Varley
       AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 03:55:27 -0400
From: "Chris Carson" <fastcarson@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: SSII brake clearance questions

Unless your Pace Car has been modified or isn't real, it has 11" brakes. You
can't use 12" rotors without a spindle swap/modification. SSIIs work fine on
the 11" spindles, but not on 12", with stock calipers at least: wilwoods or
some other fancy models might clear.

Chris
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "mike jones" <spazzer@comcast.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 6:36 PM
Subject: SSII brake clearance questions


> Has anyone run 12" brakes with Olds SSII wheels and used/not used a
spacer?  I know the centers of
> the SSII wheels are the same for the 14" and 15" wheels.
>
> Car is a '77 Delta pacecar, thinking of using 1LE rotors on it but I'm
afraid the calipers might hit
> the inside of the wheels.
>
> TIA, Mike.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 07:14:39 -0400
From: "David Popadic" <davepopadic@core.com>
Subject: No tail lights?  No brake lights?

It's a nice morning so I thought I would bring the Cutlass (67) to work. 
 Driving for awhile, no problems.  Pull up at the first intersection, I 
have a motorcyclist tell me that I have no tail lights but I have brake 
lights.  I thank him, stop at the next area and check.  Sure enough, no 
tail lights.  Brake lights seem fine.  I check the blinkers.  Both are 
working nicely.  Go on my happy way.  Couple miles down the road, 
another motorcyclist tells me I have no tail lights OR brake lights?  
What the heck....  Ok... Only couple miles from work (out of a 25+ miles 
trip), so I go to work.  Check and the tail lights are working (I didn't 
check the brake lights, as it was starting to get light out and there 
wasn't anyone around to check).  Where should I start to look?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 08:00:50 -0400
From: Jim Donoghue <jim@smithy.com>
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass Diesel

On Sat, 2004-09-18 at 00:57, ron fama wrote:
> you could just convert it to gas. 

Enough of that already....

> 
> > Bruce,
> > 
> > I sure agree with you that the 200's are not very good transmissions. I also
> > thought about the TH400 route, but I don't want to give up any further
> > horsepower to transmission losses than I have to. Of course I doubt that I
> > would ever have to touch the trans again with a 400. I would like to raise
> > the converter lockup on the 200C that I have, and I imagine that I will have
> > to replace it sooner rather than later. My other thought as to the 400 was
> > that the rear cross member would have to be changed? Did you do this with
> > your Cutlass? Or would it be possible to use the later 200R4 cross member?
> > How did you hook up the switch pitch to your Cutlass? Manual or automatic
> > switch?
> > 

I don't know if this helps any, but in my '85 Cutlass, I replaced the
gas engine and the 200C transmission with a 350 diesel and 200-4R from a
Delta 88. I had to use the transmission crossmember from a 1987(?)
Cutlass that had the 200-4R in it. I don't know anything about the 400.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 09:01:57 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 50 + 50 != 100

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In a message dated 9/18/2004 9:22:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
bcroe@juno.com writes:

Chris is  absolutely right.  Crash at 50 into an identical weight 
going 50 the  opposite way, is the same for you as crashing 
into a "brick wall" at 50,  think about an invisible wall between
the 2 vehicles where they meet.   Bruce Roe (not "Bruce")




Are you saying that crashing into an object such as a car coming at  you at 
50mph is the same as you hitting a brick wall that is not  moving, Bruce Roe? 
(not Bruce) 
 
 
Bruce 
75 Delta 88  Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
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e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/18/2004 9:22:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
bcroe@juno.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>Chris is=20
  absolutely right.&nbsp; Crash at 50 into an identical weight <BR>going 50=20=
the=20
  opposite way, is the same for you as crashing <BR>into a "brick wall" at 5=
0,=20
  think about an invisible wall between<BR>the 2 vehicles where they meet.&n=
bsp;=20
  Bruce Roe (not "Bruce")<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Are you saying that crashing into an object such as a car&nbsp;coming a=
t=20
you at&nbsp;50mph&nbsp;is the same as you&nbsp;hitting a brick wall that is=20=
not=20
moving, Bruce Roe? (not Bruce)&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>75 Delta 88=20
Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- -------------------------------1095685317--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 10:07:39 -0400
From: james.zito@ps.ge.com
Subject: WAS Bumper Shocks. now reg TH400---SP TH400

>From Rick:
Also, I realize I may have been sleeping during class, but ;
could one of you experts describe to me in detail exactly how to convert my
TH400 to a switch pitch tranny.
- ---------------------------------
Basically you need a new front pump, pitch solenoid and linkage and an SP
TC.  The electrical connector on the side of the tranny changes to provided
2 contacts, 1 for the detent solenoid and 1 for the pitch solenoid.  

If you get the Ron Sessions book "How to work on and modify the TH-400" it
will give you some great details on how to do it.  And it removes all the
fear from working on a TH-400.  

However, it does forget to mention the trick for getting the intermediate
clutch hub/forward clutch drum back into the intermediate clutch stack.
(You have to engage the intermediate clutch with 30-40psi air on the center
support bolt).  Cost me an extra $40 for a second set of CS seal rings and
IC frictions.

Jim
69 442 conv
body STILL hasn't done anything........ 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 10:13:19 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumper Shocks.

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In a message dated 9/18/2004 7:22:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
aremessenger@icehouse.net writes:

Here is  a question for the list. Can the 5 mph.bumper shocks on my '76 98
coupe be  either rebuilt, or purchased new some where? 


I purchased new ones from Desert Dog. Also try Billions and Trillions out  of 
Oklahoma. Not sure if you can rebuild them or not. They are filled with  
hydraulic fluid which comes out after an accident occurs.
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20=
Arial"=20
bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Drol=
e_document=20
face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/18/2004 7:22:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
aremessenger@icehouse.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>Here is=20
  a question for the list. Can the 5 mph.bumper shocks on my '76 98<BR>coupe=
 be=20
  either rebuilt, or purchased new some where? </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>I purchased new ones from Desert Dog. Also try Billions and Trillions o=
ut=20
of Oklahoma. Not sure if you can rebuild them or not. They are filled with=20
hydraulic fluid which comes out after an accident occurs.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 11:13:03 -0500
From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
Subject: headliner

Does anybody know if you start in the Front, Side or Back to put in
a headliner in a 70 cutlass
Bob
W-31

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:19:04 +0000
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: No tail lights? No brake lights?

>another motorcyclist tells me I have no tail lights OR brake lights?
>What the heck....  Ok... Only couple miles from work (out of a 25+ miles
>trip), so I go to work.  Check and the tail lights are working (I didn't
>check the brake lights, as it was starting to get light out and there
>wasn't anyone around to check).  Where should I start to look?

I'd start at the back; the taillight and brake light circuits really have 
nothing else in common, other than that they converge in the same bulbs. 
That is, if your brake lights went out because, say, your turn-signal switch 
went bad and interrupted power to the brake lamps even when you weren't 
signalling a turn, your taillights would be unaffected. Similarly, if you 
blew a tailllight fuse, your brake lights would keep going (at least until 
their own fuse blew for whatever reason).

So check the wiring in the trunk, and especially where the wiring from the 
taillamps converges at the main harness (which, if your car is similar to 
later ones, would be at the left rear of the trunk). There's a main harness 
that travels from the fusebox to the back of the car, goes through a large 
connector at the back, then branches goes out to various places from there 
(e.g. taillights, brake/turn-signals, fuel tank sender, etc.).

On newer cars (and perhaps your '67 as well; someone else can say for sure), 
that main front-to-rear bus is actually solid-aluminum conductors or 
similar; the big connection in the trunk is to meet up with stranded-copper 
wires for the rear wiring harness. The solid conductors do not take kindly 
to flexing or splicing, and maybe you have an intermittent connection in 
that harness somewhere.

One thing I wouldn't assume is bad right away would be a ground connection, 
because in that case, one circuit would use the other as a ground through 
the dual-filament bulbs, and you'd see at least some light coming out. Since 
yours are completely dead, the problem in your case seems to be that the 
power is getting interrupted before it gets to the bulbs.

- --Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to 
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 12:53:52 -0500
From: Kevin Wright <krwright@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Diesel Questions - Was Re: 81 Cutlass

I happen to have an old Road and Track (or Car and Driver, I forget 
which) in which they tested a turbo kit for the Olds diesel. I believe 
that they used an Eldorado.
Picked up performance a bit, but still nothing stellar. Not far off the 
gas engines of the day, though. The same company made a turbo setup for 
Diesel VW Rabbits as well.
I've wondered lately whether it might be worthwhile to replicate that 
setup, and how much boost the things can take. I would at least use ARP 
head studs, I think.
Would probably need more fuel - can the injection pump be tweaked?
I've always felt that a diesel without a turbo (or supercharger. Hey! 
There's an idea! 6-71 on an Olds diesel...) was pretty much 
pointless...

krw
On Sep 18, 2004, at 4:32 PM, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 14:30:50 -0700
> From: "David Manly" <dmanlyr@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Diesel Questions - Was Re: 81 Cutlass
>
> Hey,
>
> Well here is a Olds diesel fan, although I do realize the short 
> comings.
> They will and can/do run for a lot of miles, I have had one that went 
> over
> 200k without a mechanical problem, but then I have seen other's that 
> can't
> even get to 10k without problems.
>
> So what are these engines?

<snip of a whole lot of useful Olds diesel info>


On digest mode, so I'm a little slow...

Kevin Wright                                         
krwright@sbcglobal.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX                             
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html

'71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: 
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html

Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! 
And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :)
...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be 
parts if someone doesn't buy it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 12:53:35 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: No tail lights? No brake lights?

One other thing to check is the large connector on the steering column.  I 
inadvertently disturbed the one on my 70 once and had similar results of no 
lights in the rear.  A good wiggling and re-seating of the plug and it's 
been fine ever since.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser

_________________________________________________________________
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and 
more! http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 14:15:46 -0400
From: "Tour Op & Travel Agency Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: No tail lights? No brake lights?

There can be a connection to the ground - in my 74CS it was intermitent and
I had to wringle it from time to time to reestablish the electrica l
conection... HIH
MLR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 12:49:52 -0500
From: "Dave Wyatt" <wyattolds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: headliner

Start in the middle with the middle bow (It's positioned with plastic clips) 
and work towards each end.  At the same time, work out the large wrinkles 
side to side as you head to each end.  Typically there is excess bow listing 
sewn in and it will need to be trimmed back first.  Use your old head liner 
for a pattern and trim the listing back as needed.  If you don't have it, 
the listing should go into the curve of the bow, but not reach the body 
side.  Do not trim any head liner until you are done and the trim is 
installed.

Don't worry that you end up with a few minor wrinkles, thats what the heat 
gun is for.  Don't have one???  Use a blow dryer to warm up the head liner 
after you have it stretched as much as possible and the big wrinkles out.  
Warm up small areas with the heat and then back away and watch them 
dissappear.  Go slowly and gently so you don't burn through the head liner.  
You just want it warm enough to see a little relaxing in the material.  As 
it cools it will suck up tight and pull the wrinkles right out.  It may take 
a couple of tries in any given area.

You don't have to stretch the liner with much force, just get it fairly 
taught.  The heat process witll finish things off.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
67 Vista Cruiser





>From: "Bob" <macs63rd@iols.com>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: "olds" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: headliner
>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 11:13:03 -0500
>
>Does anybody know if you start in the Front, Side or Back to put in
>a headliner in a 70 cutlass
>Bob
>W-31
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 15:11:17 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: headliner

Thanks for the heat tip. I guess I need to do that. I have some small
wrinkles I didn't know that heat would shrink them out.

Also, whenever you are stretching fabric, you should start at the center and
work your way to the corners. So, you are right about starting on the center
bow, etc., but I would add that when you do the front and back edges you
should also attach the center first and work your way out.

DEFINTELY don't cut anything until it's all in place. Otherwise you may end
up kicking yourself big-time.

John Nasta

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 12:51:38 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: Seeping Pinion Seal

Hi All,

I have a vehicle with a slow seep at the pinion seal, and I'm looking for an additive that will swell the seal and hopefully stop the leak (yes I know I should replace the seal, but it's a very small leak and does not justify the effort involved). I had a power steering leak that some K&W Trans-X did a great job of sealing, and I'd like to do the same thing with this differential. So far all of the additives I have seen are for power steering/automatic transmissions and engine oil, and several of them stated specifically on the label that they were not to be used in differentials. Does anyone know of an additive that I can use in a differential?

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 13:34:35 -0700
From: "Infinite Space Systems, Inc." <imp@theriver.com>
Subject: Re: No tail lights?  No brake lights?

Check for corrosion in the bulb sockets and on the bulb base. Also check to
see if the bulb base wobbles, is loose, in the socket. If that happens, odds
are you will have to replace the socket and would also apply if there is
extensive corrosion in the socket.

Milton Schick
1964 442 Cutlass
imp@theriver.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Popadic" <davepopadic@core.com>
To: "Olds's List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 4:14 AM
Subject: No tail lights? No brake lights?


> It's a nice morning so I thought I would bring the Cutlass (67) to work.
>  Driving for awhile, no problems.  Pull up at the first intersection, I
> have a motorcyclist tell me that I have no tail lights but I have brake
> lights.  I thank him, stop at the next area and check.  Sure enough, no
> tail lights.  Brake lights seem fine.  I check the blinkers.  Both are
> working nicely.  Go on my happy way.  Couple miles down the road,
> another motorcyclist tells me I have no tail lights OR brake lights?
> What the heck....  Ok... Only couple miles from work (out of a 25+ miles
> trip), so I go to work.  Check and the tail lights are working (I didn't
> check the brake lights, as it was starting to get light out and there
> wasn't anyone around to check).  Where should I start to look?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:39:37 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: No tail lights?  No brake lights?

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In a message dated 9/20/2004 4:35:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
imp@theriver.com writes:

Check  for corrosion in the bulb sockets and on the bulb base. Also check to
see  if the bulb base wobbles, is loose, in the socket. If that happens,  odds
are you will have to replace the socket and would also apply if there  is
extensive corrosion in the socket


Don't forget to check the ground. That's the most likely culprit.
 
 
Bruce
75  Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)
72 Cutlass Conv.
56 190 SL Conv.
92  Eldo

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<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/20/2004 4:35:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
imp@theriver.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>Check=20
  for corrosion in the bulb sockets and on the bulb base. Also check to<BR>s=
ee=20
  if the bulb base wobbles, is loose, in the socket. If that happens,=20
  odds<BR>are you will have to replace the socket and would also apply if th=
ere=20
  is<BR>extensive corrosion in the socket</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Don't forget to check the ground. That's the most likely culprit.</DIV>
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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=3D"10"=
>Bruce<BR>75=20
Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)<BR>72 Cutlass Conv.<BR>56 190 SL Conv.<BR>=
92=20
Eldo</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:15:29 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: headliner

John Nasta wrote:

> ... DEFINTELY don't cut anything until it's all in place. ...

And don't let your father in law cut anything.

Me: "That hole doesn't look like it's centered."

FIL: "Uh, 54 divided by 2 is 22 isn't it?"

Aaaaahhhh!!!!
- -- 

Cliff "I prefer making the dumb mistakes myself." Simpson
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 18:23:06 -0400
From: "Marty McLeod" <marty.regena@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Olds power windows

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the power window motors and
switches from a 68 Olds Delta 4 door, would bolt right into a 68-72 GM A
body.  Thanks for any info.

Marty McLeod
69 Cutlass Convertible 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 18:52:54 -0400
From: "John Nasta" <email@johnnasta.com>
Subject: RE: Olds power windows

The motors will. Not sure about the switches.

John Nasta



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Marty McLeod
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 6:23 PM
To: Olds List
Subject: Olds power windows

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the power window motors and
switches from a 68 Olds Delta 4 door, would bolt right into a 68-72 GM A
body.  Thanks for any info.

Marty McLeod
69 Cutlass Convertible 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:12:53 -0700
From: "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com>
Subject: TH350C upshift; was RE: The flimsiness of Toys

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:16:10 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: The flimsiness of Toys

Check the adjustment to the cable to the carb.  Bruce Roe

17 Sep 2004 "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net> writes:
> On the Olds topic now - My TH350C was rebuild, works 
> mucho better, but there is a big gap between the 2-3 
> upshift. 1-2 is good, wery low in rpm, later the gearbox
> waits till 35mph to pass the 3rd. All that when driving 
> slowly, with high vacuum. At lower vacuum it will wait 
> much more to shift, but this doesn't matter even better...
> 
> Any ideas about?
> TIA
> Matt
> 81CS 468ci

Isn't it the vacuum modulator that controls the part-throttle upshift 
points on the TH350 and its variants?

Kenneth
1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible
Phoenix, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 18:31:07 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: 50 + 50 != 100

essentially yes, if you had a perfect meeting.  The 2 vehicles 
mash up against an imaginary dividing line, which is just 
the same as hitting in immovable object.  Bruce Roe

20 Sep 2004  JonKrisInc@aol.com writes:
>  
> In a message dated 9/18/2004 
> bcroe@juno.com writes:
> 
> Chris is  absolutely right.  Crash at 50 into an identical weight 
> going 50 the  opposite way, is the same for you as crashing 
> into a "brick wall" at 50,  think about an invisible wall between
> the 2 vehicles where they meet.   Bruce Roe (not "Bruce")

> Are you saying that crashing into an object such as a car coming at  
> you at 
> 50mph is the same as you hitting a brick wall that is not  moving, 
> Bruce Roe? 
> (not Bruce) 
>  
>  
> Bruce 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:10:17 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: WAS Bumper Shocks. now reg TH400---SP TH400

There is an oil restrictor needed for the stator oil passage; 
some transmissions don't even have the passage.  You 
won't need the 3 terminal throttle linkage switch (but you 
still retain the kickdown switch) if you use an electronic 
SWitch Pitch controller.

There are several tools that remove most of the fustration 
of putting together a THM400/425.  Bruce Roe

20 Sep 2004  james.zito@ps.ge.com writes:
> From Rick:
> Also, I realize I may have been sleeping during class, but ;
> could one of you experts describe to me in detail exactly 
> how to convert my TH400 to a switch pitch tranny?
> ---------------------------------
> Basically you need a new front pump, pitch solenoid and 
> linkage and an SP TC.  The electrical connector on the side 
> of the tranny changes to provided 2 contacts, 1 for the 
> detent solenoid and 1 for the pitch solenoid.  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 21:02:02 -0400
From: Cutlass7276@netscape.net
Subject: Re: Bumper Shocks.

Hello
I tossed the HEAVY rear bumper shocks in the garbage.
Then i took the heavy inner core out also,tossed that.
Then we fab, IIRC two large square/oval shaped brackets to replace the shocks.
Looked like this after...
http://www.angelfire.com/rock2/cutlass7276/picture26.gif
Lighter they are, the faster they go.
Wandy H.
Maple Ditch.B.C.



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:03:37 -0500
From: bcroe@juno.com
Subject: TH350C upshift; was RE: The flimsiness of Toys

Check the manual for details.  There are no throttle linkage 
trans cables on my cars.  Bruce Roe

20 Sep 2004  "Schopen, Kenneth" <kenneth.schopen@medtronic.com> writes:

> Isn't it the vacuum modulator that controls the part-throttle 
> upshift points on the TH350 and its variants?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 22:59:31 -0400
From: "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net>
Subject: Re: TH350C upshift; was RE: The flimsiness of Toys

> Check the adjustment to the cable to the carb.  Bruce Roe
>
> 17 Sep 2004 "Trade 2000" <travelchile@manquehue.net> writes:
> > On the Olds topic now - My TH350C was rebuild, works
> > mucho better, but there is a big gap between the 2-3
> > upshift. 1-2 is good, wery low in rpm, later the gearbox
> > waits till 35mph to pass the 3rd. All that when driving
> > slowly, with high vacuum. At lower vacuum it will wait
> > much more to shift, but this doesn't matter even better...
> Isn't it the vacuum modulator that controls the part-throttle upshift
> points on the TH350 and its variants?
>
> Kenneth
Thanks Kenneth, I thought so as well, but it controls the 1-2 shift in the
same way, right? So why the 1-2 is early and the 2-3 is late, at 35mph, like
it was before, with the 260ci? The small engine was shifting at 25-35-45
mph, the last was the locking of the converter. Later, with the big engine,
shifts were slow, but early - I had much more vacuum with it. Now, with the
trans rebuild, it shifts 2-3 at 35mph inclusively with 20inHg of vacuum,
sometimes only it shifts earlier, when coasting. Anyway, the B&M shift kit
( set at street-strip mode ) is a nice thing, upshifts are swift and
downshifts quick and easy to happen with some more presure on the gas, for
the time I'm quite happy with it..... time to think about the rear end.. :-(
Matt
81CS 468ci

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #5028
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