To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #636


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 28 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 636

Re: transmition swap
Re: Qjet float bowl
Humor (fwd)
New motor mounts on Cutlass Question
Re: New motor mounts on Cutlass Question
Re: Question:'67 to '65 axle swap
68-70 Charger
Re: V.C./442
Re: Getting started
Tire recommendation wanted
Re: transmition swap
Re: Defending NASA's newest flame (Mostly Non Olds)
olds 350 engine
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Tranny rebuild finished!
Re: TornadoAir
cutlass dimentions
Re: olds 350 engine
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: transmition swap
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: TornadoAir
Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE: Engine Mounts
Indy 500 Pace Car Trivia Answers
Re: transmition swap
Re: transmition swap
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Motor Mounts
Wash, D.C. & Balto Area - Spring Dust-Off 5/4
olds 350 engine
Re: RTV/425s/P.B.
Re: Olds center caps
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: olds 350 engine
Re: olds 350 engine
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
New Archive Available
Olds Cars For Sale
My Web Page is UP (If a bit thin)
Re: Original Plates & Personalized
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
1984 Hurst Olds for sale
Car apprasials - auto insurance
Shroud to fender braces
75 H/O
re:1987 Cutlass Speakers
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
http://www.geocities.com/baja/4590/
Clearance Sale ª1 (4/28)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 11:52:37 -0300
Subject: Re: transmition swap

At 10:23 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
>Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
>repair. Thanks.

You'd need an adapter plate for the different bellhousing pattern. You'd
also need the TH400 transmission mount, relocate the crossmember, adjust the
parking brake cables and shorten the driveshaft.

Now what was that about a swap being cheaper than repair? ;)

Actually, a rebuild of your TH350 should only run around $300-$400 (less if
you pull it and reinstall it yourself), or you should be able to pick up a
serviceable TH350 with an Olds bolt pattern for around $100-$150 (they only
made about 150 million of these transmissions, so you won't have to look
far; any from a Pontiac or Buick would work as well). If you rebuild it
yourself, the rebuild kits are less than $100.

You don't need the extra strength of the TH400 behind your 350; a
properly-built TH350 will stand up behind a big-block, and saps less hp than
the TH400. So don't do it just to gain extra strength.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 11:59:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Qjet float bowl

Try a carb heat shield.  GM makes one or you can get an aftermarket one.
 Sounds like heat soak is evaporating all of your fuel out of the bowl.
Of course, this assumes that you don't have a casting leak or leaking
through the primary well plugs.  For a good education in Qjet theory and
operation, get HP Books book on the Quadrajet by Doug Roe.  Mandatory
reading for fans of Rochester's finest.
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 12:12:56 -0300
Subject: Humor (fwd)

>                   Cowboy Computer Jargon
>
>Hard Drive: Trying to climb a steep, muddy hill with 3 flat tires and
>pulling a trailer load of fertilizer.
>
>Window: Place in the truck to hang your guns.
>
>Floppy: When you run out of Polygrip.
>
>Modem: How you got rid of your dandelions.
>
>ROM:  Delicious when you mix it with coca cola.
>
>Byte:  First word in a kiss-off phrase.
>
>Reboot: What you do when the first pair gets covered with barnyard
>stuff.
>
>Mouse: Fuzzy, soft thing you stuff in your beer bottle in order to get a
>free case.
>
>LAN:  To borrow, as in, Hey Delbert!  LAN me yore truck.
>
>Cursor:  A guy who is mad at his wife/girlfriend.
>
>Bit:  A wager, as in, I bit you cain't spit that watermelon seed 'cross
>the porch longways.
>
>Packet:  What you do to a suitcase or Wal-Mart bag before a trip.
>
>Digital Control: What your fingers do on the TV remote.
>
>  The human mind ordinarily operates at only ten percent of its capacity
>        -- the rest is overhead for the operating system.

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 12:16:08 -0300
Subject: New motor mounts on Cutlass Question

So, I'm off today to get me some new motor mounts for my 455 into 75
cutlass project.  The original mounts on the 350 and 455 look bad, and
the new mounts are $14.99, so I'm replacing.  Will these new mounts,
supposedly for a '75 cutlass with a 455 bolt into my 75 cutlass
(originally 350), or are there other differences on the frame portion of the
 mount?   Is there any majour differences between the 350 mounts I  should
look
 for (Not that the parts counter would sell me the wrong ones or anything).


.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.0.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:29:58 -0300
Subject: Re: New motor mounts on Cutlass Question

As far as I know, Olds frames have always been drilled with holes for all
engines available in that particular model to save on costs.  If I am
wrong please correct me, but I think that you should have no problems
whatsoever with these mounts.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.


On Mon, 28 Apr 1997, Eric Aksomitis wrote:

> So, I'm off today to get me some new motor mounts for my 455 into 75
> cutlass project.  The original mounts on the 350 and 455 look bad, and
> the new mounts are $14.99, so I'm replacing.  Will these new mounts,
> supposedly for a '75 cutlass with a 455 bolt into my 75 cutlass
> (originally 350), or are there other differences on the frame portion of the
>  mount?   Is there any majour differences between the 350 mounts I  should
look >  for (Not that the parts counter would sell me the wrong ones or
anything). > > > .....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version
2.0..... > Eric Aksomitis: > Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5
vehicles > http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca 
>
.....End of self-promo                                  ..... > > >

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 07:30:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Question:'67 to '65 axle swap

Paul Brillhart wrote:
>
>   I've got a '67 442 whose q-panels are the result of bondo and sweat and
> time.  So is a fair amount of the rest of the car.  I also have a '65 442
> that is all sheetmetal and in great shape(AZ car).  The '67 has a 3:55 posi
> with fresh wheel bearings and brake system while the '65 has a 3:23 at best
> and is an open end.  The '67 rear is out of a '66 F85 parts car and swapped
> right in.  I can't compare the cars back to back for various reasons and
> want to know if a '66-'67 rear and a '65 will swap without a hitch(as in the
> coil spring and shock mounts are the same).  I plan on selling the '67 soon
> and don't want to let the rear go with it.  If anyone knows if they are the
> same or different, please let me know.
>
>   Thanks.
>
>   Paul Brillhart

Paul,

This is what I have:

Axle Assembly - Oldsmobile F85

'65-66 exc Skyroof SW  837
'67 exc Skyroof SW     905


837   Axle assm w/brake drums
      Buick Special '65-66 exc Gran Sport & Skyroof SW
      Olds F85 '65-66 exc Skyroof SW
905   Axle assm w/brake drums
      Olds F85 '67 exc Skyroof SW

It looks like they are not a direct interchange.  I suspect that the
axle width is different.  That obviously didn't hurt you in the '67 the
first time.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 12:49:12 -0300
Subject: 68-70 Charger

Sorry, I do own a 68 442 . but a friend of mine is a Mopar freak, If any
one knows were a 68-70 charger is (preferably one in need of paint,but
solid, maybe minor engine work. just a car to restore..orange.)please
contact me ,  Thankyou
Marty                http://hanthorn@inwave.com
68 442

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 12:52:13 -0300
Subject: Re: V.C./442

H. Karamanos wrote:
>
> As I have found a 65 V.C. plane jane model, no frills, needs a rear
> window, but otherwise a very clean and rust free car.
>
>  I would like to get rid of my ª's matching, sat outside all it's life in
> the great green(re:  wet) NW, rusty, 400-4 speed-3.42 antispin, complete,
> 69 442.  Approx 80k on 442. Tahitian turquoise, Black bucket seats,
> console, drive it home.  $2200.  As the body is not in the best of shape,
> but the drivetrain works exceptional, and if you dont buy it, I will pull
> the running gear and send it to the crusher.
>
>  I am looking for a rear window for a 65 VC tailgate.  Maybe located in WA
> state or northern OR.  Also any add on trinkets that you might want to get
> rid of that would have come on a VC when delivered.  Rear window air
> deflector, roof rack.
>
> Please reply to hikara@u.washington.edu and i will get back to you slowly
> but surely
>     47rocket98  jack
I will take the body off your hands....cheap?
where are you at?
Marty

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:05:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Getting started

> Just getting started with an 1960 Dynamic 88 convertable. Looks very
> good...needs some mech work.

Congrats!!  Finally, another '60 on the list.  I've been here for
the better part of two years, and yours is the only other one I've heard
about.  Very cool.


 I would like some thoughts on my two most
> pressing challenges. First, brakes go soft and you have to stand on them
> to halt the floatilla.  It has power brakes.

Your car probibly has a Bendix Master Vac power booster, if it's
like mine.  They only used them a couple years as far as I can tell (from
about '59 to 61 or 62), so parts are proving hard to find.  They use a
leather "cup" to seal the piston in the housing, and over the years they
can crack, dry out, rot, etc and stop sealing.  I've had mine taken apart
for a while now, and none of the usual sources have any parts for them
(like Fusicks, Olds USA, Kanter, etc) but I still have to check out
Hemmings.

  I found that it had a
> vacume resouvior in the fire wall (little nipple sticking out).Added a
> hose, but that didn't fix the problem.

Hmm.  Interesting.  The vacuum tank on mine is pretty big, and
sort of stuffed between the inner and outer fenders on the left side.
It's held in place by 3 bolts you can reach from inside the wheel
well.  It has a large hose connected to it, and an in line check valve.
The only vacuum connection(s) on the firewall are for the heater and vent
controlls (oh yea, and one for the power trunk release!)  You might want
to check and see if there is a tank on the left side, and if not see if
there are three holes drilled in a triangle shape in the inner fender.  If
so, then someone (for some unknown reason) swiped the vacuum tank.


 Rebuilt the master cylinder..
> that didn't work. Is the booster next? What?

I would check all the vacuum connections again just to make sure
thats not the problem, and then start worrying about the booster.  If you
can't find any parts for it, you could probibly swap in a junkyard booster
unitl you can find the parts.

> Second, my generator doesn't appear to be charging, battery is new and
> dead.  Voltage regulator looks new. I'll check this out very soon.  MY
> question is if the generator is gone, would this be a good time to put
> in an alternator?  If so what is involved and is it costly?

I'll have to go with Lloyd on this one.  Unless you plan on
putting a 1000 watt stereo system in the thing, the stock generator will
work just fine.  Mine was'nt working when I bought the car (not much else
was working!!!)  but the fix turned out to be a $5 set of brushes.  And
like Lloyd said, it really is an easy fix.  Of course, as long as it's
apart, you mightaswell clean everything up, paint the housing, and grease
the bearings!  Oh, and don't forget to polarize the generator if you
remove it.  Otherwise it won't charge.

> I have a lot to do to make it a sound driver, but outside these issues
> it is fun to drive and i'm looking forward getting to the detail levels
> you all seem to enjoy. Thanks for listening

Congrats again on a *very* cool car!  Let me know how it turnes
out!  Oh, and one question--does your generator have a little condensor
(yea, just like the one in your distributor) bolted it it?  If so, what
terminal does the wire go to?  Good luck!

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 06:05:51 -0300
Subject: Tire recommendation wanted

     Does anyone have any recommendations for brand and models of tires for
     my '84 H/O.  I'll probably get 235/60R15's.  My primary concerns are
     tread life, a quiet smooth ride, and handling.  I don't need
     all-seasons, since I have dedicated snow tires.  Traction would be
     nice too, but I realize that the hard compound required for tread life
     is a trade off.  Besides, the fairly hard 235/60's I have on there now
     seem to have enough traction to hold the HP that the 307 puts out.

     I was driving back from Portland to Spokane yesterday, when 50 miles
     from nowhere, in the columbia gorge, at 4:00PM on a Sunday, a rear
     tire decided that it no longer wanted to be a tire and shredded
     itself.  I think these things are built with some sort of detector so
     that they only fail at the worst possible time and place.  After three
     tire changes on the side of the freeway in 40mph winds (had to swap
     things around to put a front tire on the rear and the spare on the
     front.  Since I have posi I didn't want to run two different sized
     tires in the rear) I had to make due on that dinky-ass little compact
     spare (which I don't trust at all!) for 10 miles to the nearest gas
     station who pointed me to the only local tire dealer (who just opened
     Saturday) and had nothing in my size.  So, I limped another 50 miles
     on that dinky tire to Hermiston and found probably the last service
     station still open (which was supposed to close 3 minutes after I got
     there) and bought a used tire to get home on.  Whew!

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:18:31 -0300
Subject: Re: transmition swap

>
> Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
> Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
> repair. Thanks.
>
Yes, trans-dapt makes an adapter available at many speedshops.

PAW has it listed as part TPD-0054  @$95.95  it comes with a 3/8" thick
adapter plate, special washers to backspace the torque converter, and a
special torque converter pilot bushing and hardware.

their number is 818-998-6000

you might find it cheaper somewhere else, but PAW's catalog is HUGE  and
I had it handy.

- -greg

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:21:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Defending NASA's newest flame (Mostly Non Olds)

>Thanks to all for coming to my rescue, and yes, Charley is right the
>majority of my time spent either reviewing or responding is done early
>in the morning before the onslaught begins, or lunchtime.

Plus, if I remember the article right, it was fairly obvious that you
were forwarding an article written by somebody else; you hadn't allegedly
wasted the taxpayer's money by typing it all in yourself...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: sammy williams <bd5av8r@whidbey.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 12:31:27 -0300
Subject: olds 350 engine

I have a question reguarding my Seville( yes its a cadillac but has an
olds 350 engine in it) i was thinking of installing the 455 in its
place. is it possible to keep the F.I. setup on the 455? if not what
camshaft compression ratio etc should i rebuild the 350 to to get more
h.p. while not defiling the f.i. system on the car? any help is
apriciated. Mandatory Olds content I also own an '83 Cutlass. I was
raised in a family that owned nothing but Oldsmibiles. S.Williams

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:40:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

I love my Goodyear Eagle ST's, but my college roomate swears on his BFG
radial T/A's.  I would choose between to two probably on looks, as their
performance is almost identical as we can tell.

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:50:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

On Mon, 28 Apr 1997, Tom Lentz wrote:

>      I was driving back from Portland to Spokane yesterday, when 50 miles
>      from nowhere, in the columbia gorge, at 4:00PM on a Sunday, a rear
>      tire decided that it no longer wanted to be a tire and shredded
>      itself.  I think these things are built with some sort of detector so
>      that they only fail at the worst possible time and place.  After three

had similar problems over spring break, mine ended alot worse as I was
changing lanes when it blew and ended up sideswiping a reflector, then
losing control when I came back onto the highway and swapped ends twice,
I am still not sure why the car did not flip but it definatly would have
been the end for the car (and maybe me) if it had     I ended up
ruining 1 rim, damaging another   ruined the other 3 tires during the
slide and the body damage was about $1500  plus I was 4 1/2 hours getting
the thing back on the road    moral of the story  -never trust a guy named
weasel     no wait    wrong moral      -never run sh*t (pick your own
vowel) tires   it can get real expensive real fast   if I had been smart I
could have bought a whole set of high quality tires for under $400   looks
real cheap now      20/20 hindsight

Dustin

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:58:04 -0300
Subject: Tranny rebuild finished!

Hey everyone,
     Well, I finally got my baby back (my '87 cutlass) from the transmission
shop. Ended up it had a blown torque converter which basically took out the
rest of my transmission. I had them pu in a 10 vane pump, trans. cooler, and
shift kit. I think they also drilled out some oil passage ways and put in
steal seals. Boy does she run great!! I should have done this a long time
ago! I can floor it from a dead stop and before it shifts I'm doing 40 mph.
This might not be a big deal for you guys with your olds 442's with the 350
and 455 rockets but you got to realize for me this is great. It is
definitely not as weak as before because I can finally get it to break loose
when I stomp on it. Now as soon as I get that posi and 3.73 rear end, I
should be doing pretty good for the time being.
    Thanks for all the help with my transmission. I really appreciated it!
Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

P.S. Oh yeah, I also put in a VDO tach this weekend. Really nice! Its the
one with the fiber optic pointer. I put it right between the two air ducts
on the right side of the instrument panel (where it looks like clock should
go). It worked out great!

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:53:15 -0300
Subject: Re: TornadoAir

>Anybody ever hear of this new(?) Tornado thing?  You can see it at
>http://www.tornadoair.com
>
>They say it increases the air flow using a contraption that has no
>moving parts.  Better yet, it only costs ~$70.
>
>Is it bogus?

IMHO, yes. Based on what I see at the web site, it doesn't look very
promising. No, strike that; they do a _lot_ of promising, but the
claims seem rather far-fetched and the testimonials, such as they
are, appear to be untraceable ("Professor, Automotive Technology
of Saddleback College", "George, Drag Racing four times Nat'l Record
Holder"), have wording that just doesn't seem to match the claimed
source ("Just a quick note to tell you how thrilled I am with your
product. [...] -- Truckin' and Mini Truckin' Magazine"), or cite
sources whose titles don't really have anything to do with expertise
in the product ("-Howard, Loan Supervisor of Toyota Motors Federal
Credit Union", "-Mr. Wilson, Parts Manager, Dodge Dealer, California").

Reading between the lines, it seems that the gadget is supposed to
generate a vortex that enhances atomization. But given that it's to
be installed upstream of the carburetor, throttle body and/or mass air
flow sensor, it's hard to see how much swirl would be left by the time
the air/fuel mixture reaches the cylinders.

Finally, a little WHOIS checking shows the domain as being created on
May 3rd of last year in California, yet it's served by an outfit in
Florida called DataXchange Network, Inc. Seems like they're a rather
young company that's going an awful long way to find a provider...

Anyway, the obvious comment here is that if you want to make money
with your spiffy new invention, you try and sell it to a manufacturer,
not set up a frame-filled web page. With promises such as what they're
making, I am shocked -- just shocked -- that General Motors is not
already beating down the door to their company in order to Get In On
The Ground Floor of this amazing new technology.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:59:36 -0300
Subject: cutlass dimentions

wondering if someone could tell me the width of the diff in '81-'87
cutlass supremes and also the width of the front end    I'm looking for
the total width of each  (not including lugs)

thanks
      Dustin

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 13:55:00 -0300
Subject: Re: olds 350 engine

0At 11:31 AM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a question reguarding my Seville( yes its a cadillac but has an
>olds 350 engine in it) i was thinking of installing the 455 in its

Your car has the heart of an Olds, so you and your questions about your
Seville are certainly welcome here!

>place. is it possible to keep the F.I. setup on the 455? if not what

No, the manifold won't work. I don't even know if the factory FI system
could keep up with the increased flow of the 455.

>camshaft compression ratio etc should i rebuild the 350 to to get more
>h.p. while not defiling the f.i. system on the car? any help is

I don't know of anyone who has experience modifying a Seville engine, and
the FI system to go along with it. Most were switched over to carbs at some
point in their life. It'd be interesting to see what people here can come up
with for suggestions, though!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: <Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:04:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

On Sun. Apr. 27 Greg Beaulieu (?sp) wrote re: hubcaps flying off.

Greg, by the sounds of your description, you have similar hubcaps to the
ones we have on our '55 Holiday 98 Coupe.  We have the Fiesta spinner
hubcaps, and they would randomly fly off, regardless which wheel they were
put on.  We spent 1/2 hour on I5 in WA with another couple searching for one
on the median!

Anyway, the upshot of it was that my hubby Dave tried everything he could
think of to correct the problem, and yes, we drive with radial tires.
Finally, out of desperation, he took a small dremel grinder and
painstakingly ground each individual tooth t lost a hubcap in over a year
now.  Good luck on the problem!
Sherry Soball
soballs@douglas.bc.ca
- --

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:08:45 -0300
Subject: Re: transmition swap

At 11:23 PM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
>Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
>repair. Thanks.
>
>

Not easily, they have different flanges, unless your Cutlass has a Ch*vy
motor too, which will not have happened from the factory by this early date.
You will also need to shorten the prop shaft, and provide the prop shaft
with a different coupling, as the TH400 is longer, and uses a different
output shaft spline.  And this is just the start of the differences, others
include electric kick-down vs cable and often considerable work to the rear
transmission mount, frame crossmember.

It's probably cheaper to have the TH350 rebuilt $200. to $250. here than to
rework the car for the TH400.  If you go the rebuilt route, also get a
rebuilt torque converter.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:17:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

At 06:05 AM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>     Does anyone have any recommendations for brand and models of tires for
>     my '84 H/O.  I'll probably get 235/60R15's.  My primary concerns are
>     tread life, a quiet smooth ride, and handling.  I don't need
>     all-seasons, since I have dedicated snow tires.  Traction would be
>     nice too, but I realize that the hard compound required for tread life
>     is a trade off.  Besides, the fairly hard 235/60's I have on there now
>     seem to have enough traction to hold the HP that the 307 puts out.
>
>     I was driving back from Portland to Spokane yesterday, when 50 miles
>     from nowhere, in the columbia gorge, at 4:00PM on a Sunday, a rear
>     tire decided that it no longer wanted to be a tire and shredded
>     itself.  I think these things are built with some sort of detector so
>     that they only fail at the worst possible time and place.  After three
>     tire changes on the side of the freeway in 40mph winds (had to swap
>     things around to put a front tire on the rear and the spare on the
>     front.  Since I have posi I didn't want to run two different sized
>     tires in the rear) I had to make due on that dinky-ass little compact
>     spare (which I don't trust at all!) for 10 miles to the nearest gas
>     station who pointed me to the only local tire dealer (who just opened
>     Saturday) and had nothing in my size.  So, I limped another 50 miles
>     on that dinky tire to Hermiston and found probably the last service
>     station still open (which was supposed to close 3 minutes after I got
>     there) and bought a used tire to get home on.  Whew!
>
>     Tom Lentz
>     tlentz@teknon.com
>
Personally I've had the best luck with Michelin 'X' treads.  Never less than
70,000 miles, and I think I've got more than that on the rears on my '84
Delta.

The worst tires I've ever had were Bridgestone.  My father, brother and I
bought sets of 2.15x15 R 75s, the numbers may be out of order here, and only
one survived to see 10,000 miles.  I laughed at the tire guy that sold them,
and he replaced them gratis with Michelins.

As a word to the wise.  Steel belted tires do no set well.  After they're
installed they need to be run on an everday basis, or they seem to rust out,
and cause the belt to become unglued from the carcass.

Anyway, I hartily recomment Michelins.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:29:13 -0300
Subject: Re: TornadoAir

>
>Anyway, the obvious comment here is that if you want to make money
>with your spiffy new invention, you try and sell it to a manufacturer,
>not set up a frame-filled web page. With promises such as what they're
>making, I am shocked -- just shocked -- that General Motors is not
>already beating down the door to their company in order to Get In On
>The Ground Floor of this amazing new technology.
>
>Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.
>101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>

Maybe GM's still licking their wounds after spending millions on the Wankel
engine, and of course contriving with the oil companies to keep the 100mpg
carburetor off the market.  Or with the lack of enthuisasm about the
automobile business in general, maybe GM hasn't even heard of it yet.

And don't forget they don't have their 14th floor anymore, so with the Ivory
Tower gone...enthuisasts gone...Delorean gone...Durant gone...Kettering
gone...Sloan gone...Walter P. Chrysler gone...Charley Nash gone...Louis
Chevrolet gone...Frigidaire gone...John Rock gone...

Why should we expect more?

And then we can be glad that Charley Smith is gone, so not all of the
missing are missed.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:33:32 -0300
Subject: Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE: Engine Mounts

>    It's funny that you would ask about the engine mounts --  My Performer
> intake manifold is too tall to let me run an air filter so im going to be
> switching back to the stock cast iron manifold.  As far as i can tell i
have
> about three options if i want to run the Performer manifold --- cut the
hood
> and install a scoop, find a way to lower the engine in the compartment,
and
> milling about an inch off of the carbureter pad.

Don't them dual-snorkel Toro aircleaners sit a little low? ;)

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 15:37:51 -0300
Subject: Indy 500 Pace Car Trivia Answers

Now for the Trivia Contest:

1a) What years did Olds pace the race? 1b) What was the car?
1c) Who was the driver?

1949  88 Conv.              Wilbur Shaw (Last time he drove the Pace Car) w/
                            Olds chief engineer Jack Wolfram riding shotgun.
1960 Ninety-Eight Conv.     Sam Hanks  (Last pace car delivered from
                            dealership)
1970 442 Conv.              Roger Ward
1972 H/O Conv.              Jim Rathmann (50 88 conv. done as parade cars)
1974 H/O Targa              Jim Rathmann
1977 Delta 88 Targa         James Garner
1985 Calais Conv.           James Garner
1988 Cutlass Supreme Conv.  Chuck Yeager  (Cars & Concepts produced 50 conv. &
                            200 coupes for local distribution)
1997 Aurora                 Johnny Rutherford (No replicas planned)

2)  Which ones were NOT available in the configuration as they were on
the track at the dealership. (mention main difference between pace car and
replica)
1949  88 Conv.
Same as could be bought at dealership
1960 Ninety-Eight Conv.
Same  (Last pace car delivered from dealership)
1970 442 Conv.
Same. (But engine tweaked)
1972 H/O Conv.
Same. (But engine tweaked)
1974 H/O Targa
Targa not available, but sunroof was.
1977 Delta 88 Targa         James Garner
Targa not available, but sunroof was.  Modified 403 w/ duals
1985 Calais Conv.
Convertible not available, nor Centerline wheels, headlight cover, lowered
suspension, rear spoiler w/ lights or 215 hp 4 cylinder engine.
1988 Cutlass Supreme Conv.
Replicas did not come from Oldsmobile but from Cars & Concepts.  Convertible
didn't show up for 2 more years, this time w/ a hoop over the car for the
doorhandles.  Also Quad 4 Turbi was not available.
1997 Aurora
No replicas planned


3)  What precident does this year's pace car make in the selection of
past pace cars?
1st FWD 4 door (Nash sedan had a 4 door sedan in '47).  Only 4 were built - 3
for speedway and 1 for shows.

Also:
First FWD - '73 Eldorado
First sedan - '47 Nash sedan
First FWD Conv. - '83 Riviera
First Mid-Engine - '84 Fiero
First Turbo (& V6) - '76 Buick Turbo (Based off of Century)
First Turbo V8 - '80 Firebird Trans-Am

That's it, great guesses and answers from all who participated.
Those with ALL correct answers will recieve.... the knowledge that they
knew the answers.

Bring on the Time Trials!!!!!

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:54:42 -0300
Subject: Re: transmition swap

Gregory M Zimmerman wrote:
>
> >
> > Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
> > Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
> > repair. Thanks.
> >
> Yes, trans-dapt makes an adapter available at many speedshops.
>
> PAW has it listed as part TPD-0054  @$95.95  it comes with a 3/8" thick
> adapter plate, special washers to backspace the torque converter, and a
> special torque converter pilot bushing and hardware.
>
> their number is 818-998-6000
>
> you might find it cheaper somewhere else, but PAW's catalog is HUGE  and
> I had it handy.
>
> -greg

 Thanks Greg! Steve

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:49:28 -0300
Subject: Re: transmition swap

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> At 10:23 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
> >Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
> >repair. Thanks.
>
> You'd need an adapter plate for the different bellhousing pattern. You'd
> also need the TH400 transmission mount, relocate the crossmember, adjust the
> parking brake cables and shorten the driveshaft.
>
> Now what was that about a swap being cheaper than repair? ;)
>
> Actually, a rebuild of your TH350 should only run around $300-$400 (less if
> you pull it and reinstall it yourself), or you should be able to pick up a
> serviceable TH350 with an Olds bolt pattern for around $100-$150 (they only
> made about 150 million of these transmissions, so you won't have to look
> far; any from a Pontiac or Buick would work as well). If you rebuild it
> yourself, the rebuild kits are less than $100.
>
> You don't need the extra strength of the TH400 behind your 350; a
> properly-built TH350 will stand up behind a big-block, and saps less hp than
> the TH400. So don't do it just to gain extra strength.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Bob, My mistake I want to swap in a Ch*vy TH350 for my Olds TH350. How's
that, a little better?? Steve

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 15:56:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

I like the B.F. Goodrich's. I used to have the Comp T/A's
 215 65 r15
On my cutlass and the were very good in the rain and when making
turns they were about 90 - 100 dollars


Peter L House
phouse@feith.com
'87 Salon

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:03:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

Tom,

I've got my second set of BFG Comp T/A HR-4's (2nd Generation) on my
442.  I strongly recommend these, based on my experience.  The last
pair on my car was replaced after about 70,000 miles because I was
expecting a normal winter (what a surprise - no snow!), and the tread
was starting to get a little low.  You can get them rather
economically if you shop around (mine were about $68 each), and
they're good for the occasional rain/snow that may surprise you.

I'm not sure if they have the HR-4's in the 235 size, but the VR-4's
have better dry traction and stiffer sidewals, to give a firmer ride
quality.  The downside is they are more expensive.  I would check the
Tire Rack for prices on whatever you decide to buy, and use their
price as a guide.  The local tire place matched the Tire Rack's list
price last fall when I got my tires (saving about $20/tire!)

I've got BFG Comp T/A VR's (summer tire)  on my SCX, and hate driving
it in anything but sun.  But it really has a lot of stick when its
nice!

Mike
'91 442
'93 SCX


On 28 Apr 97 at 6:05, Tom Lentz wrote:
>      Does anyone have any recommendations for brand and models of
>      tires for my '84 H/O.  I'll probably get 235/60R15's.  My
>      primary concerns are tread life, a quiet smooth ride, and
>      handling.  I don't need all-seasons, ... Traction would be nice too,
but I realize that the >      hard compound required for tread life is a trade
off.  Besides, >      the fairly hard 235/60's I have on there now seem to
have >      enough traction to hold the HP that the 307 puts out.

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:07:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts

OK, now more than one of you people told me that if I use the 455 motor
mounts, I need to use the corresponding 455 frame mounts.  I just got off
the phone with the olds dealer, and they tell me that there's only one part
ª for for frame mounts for that year  V8  cutlass(1971 in my case).  What
gives?

Thanks,
Dave
'71 cutlass convertible
dedarnell@electro-matic.com
(if you e-mail me directly, It helps, as I am on the digest.)

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 17:37:38 -0300
Subject: Wash, D.C. & Balto Area - Spring Dust-Off 5/4

     FYI - Baltimore & Washington, D.C. Areas
     I'm submitting this for a friend w/o internet access

     Sunday May 4, 1997.
     CELEBRATE OLDSMOBILES 100TH BIRTHDAY AT CONGRESSIONAL OLDSMOBILE'S
     SPRING DUST-OFF OF THE CENTURY.
     Location: Congressional Oldsmobile, 801 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD
     20852.  Rain Date May 18th.  Specialty Awards.  Open to all
     Oldsmobiles.  All proceeds go to charity.  $5 pre-reg before April
     28th, $10 day of show.  For more info:
     Congressional Oldsmobile, 801 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD 20852.
     (301) 424-7800.

      ---
     | | |  Brad Nicholson
     | | |  1987 442 W-42
     |/|\|  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
     | | |  Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
      ---   Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
     (H) brad442@erols.com
     (W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:39:08 -0300
Subject: olds 350 engine

OL>I have a question reguarding my Seville( yes its a cadillac but has an
OL>olds 350 engine in it) i was thinking of installing the 455 in its
OL>place. is it possible to keep the F.I. setup on the 455? if not what
OL>camshaft compression ratio etc should i rebuild the 350 to to get more
OL>h.p. while not defiling the f.i. system on the car? any help is
OL>apriciated. Mandatory Olds content I also own an '83 Cutlass. I was
OL>raised in a family that owned nothing but Oldsmibiles. S.Williams

 A 403 would bolt right in. It would give you more hp and torque
compared to a 350 and would be a lot easier to install than a 455 would.
Edelbrock and other after market company's make larger throttle bodies
don't know if they would work for you though. There are also company's
that can make custom computer chips to be compatible to your engine
combo. As for as cams are concerned contact several differant cam
company's to see what they recomend.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:49:50 -0300
Subject: Re: RTV/425s/P.B.

OL>I'll just hang on to the 425 block (no boat anchor for me!).
OL>_______________________________________________________
OL>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
OL>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Glad to hear that!

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 18:01:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds center caps

Don't bother with the plastic ones.  They seem prone to breaking, and they
fall off easier than the steel caps.  And if you live in a northern clime,
the chrome plating peels off easy.  Stick with the steel ones.

Duane
former owner of a 1985 Cutlass Supreme (if you wash the car at least once a
week in winter, and give the chrome a good polishing at least twice a year,
the chrome caps hold up just fine)

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 18:15:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

I have found that Goodyear Eagles are real good (they hold the pavement like
glue on my Buick, rain or shine), but the tread doesn't wear well.  The
Dunlop sports tire, the name escapes me at the moment, is VERY good.  My 1985
Cutlass, which normally handled like an eel on an oil slick, did quite well
with those.

DO NOT BY FIRESTONE!!!!!  CHEAP PIECE OF CRAP!!!!!

I can't comment on too many other tires.  But the above (except for
Firestone) have served me well.  I have heard Cooper and General are good, if
you like a less expensive tire, but don't deliver the performance of Goodyear
or Dunlop.

Michelin?  If the French can't kick any German butt in wars, can we trust
them to build a tire?

Duane
1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible (with Firestones that have to go)
1989 Century T-type (with Goodyear Eagles that are well past their prime)

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:20:26 -0300
Subject: Re: olds 350 engine

A 403 would bolt right in....<snip>...Edelbrock and other after market
company's make larger throttle bodies don't know if they would work for
you though....

     I doubt there is an Edelbrock (or any other) throttle body which
     would fit this application.  Most of the aftermarket units are for
     Ch*vy or F*rd applications; the 350 Olds (which, remember, is an
     _analog_ fuel injection system) uses a unique set of fuel injection
     hardware.  Do you even need a new throttle body for the additional
     50 cubic inches?  Anybody know how much the Olds unit flows stock?
     I would think the limiting factor is fuel flow out of the injectors.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30




------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 17:42:30 -0300
Subject: Re: olds 350 engine

> don't know if they would work for you though. There are also company's
> that can make custom computer chips to be compatible to your engine

The ECU's for these early port injection systems didn't place any
programming in removable EPROMs.  For instance, Cadillac used a
different ECU for each body style to help tailor throttle response
characteristics.  Fortunately, the ECUs back then didn't control spark,
so if a 350 was rebuilt with a higher compression ratio, it would
be a relatively simple task to recurve the mechanical advance and install
an adjustable vacuum advance unit.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:09:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

On Mon, 28 Apr 1997 Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA wrote:
> Finally, out of desperation, he took a small dremel grinder and
> painstakingly ground each individual tooth t lost a hubcap in over a year
> now.  Good luck on the problem!

Ah, put new fangs on the ol' beasties, huh? Clever... I never would have
thought of that one.

I took it to the garage today and had them swap it with the spare's
wheel. They road tested it for me and they weren't confident they had
fixed it. This place works on a lot of old cars and they said that it's a
common problem with wear on both the teeth of the cap and the rim. Their
solution was to silicone it in place temporarily until the rim can be
refinished. They say they do it all the time. I'm not crazy about the
idea but if it works, OK.

Aside from the hubcap annoyance it's a nice car. It's also for sale, if
anyone's interested (not because of the hubcaps!). 1964 Skylark
convertible, see it at http://www.442.com/gregbuick.htm

I've also posted it to rec.autos.marketplace and
http://www.traderonline.com if you're interested in details, or write me
directly.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:13:23 -0300
Subject: New Archive Available

I have finished off another month of the early list traffic.  You
can find the archive for October 1995 on my web site,

  http://www.calcon.net/~easton

If I can get sufficently motivated I'll wrap up the last month
and a half (November, part of December) and we'll have the complete
archive done and available.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:08:50 -0300
Subject: Olds Cars For Sale

Olds Cars For Sale In NE Ohio from various sources - all ads verbatim

62 Starfire, Ga car, $10K invested, new exhaust, interior, paint, tires,
brakes, $6500/OBO 661-4477

63 Starfire, white/rose, no rust, V8 auto, air, ps/pb, new tires
216-524-4403

63 Dynamic 88 Ragtop. Red/Red interior - (216)587-9587 Dealer

71 Cutlass Conv. NC car, no rust, loaded, 350 auto, buckets, console
8-track runs perfect $5800 (I've seen this car, Dk. Green exterior, black
top, factory mags, not bad) 216-886-5501

71 Delta 88 Conv, damaged rear end $900/OBO 216-807-1252

72 Toro clean, 46,240mi, $2295*

75 Hurst Olds, 455, 80k, t-tops, white/gold, rare, always garaged $2550
216-543-4917

My favorite: 78 Custom Cruiser Wagon, 230K, runs good, rusted, MANY, new
parts,  $450!







Paul Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
'69 Delta 88 Conv 455

------------------------------

From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:07:47 -0300
Subject: My Web Page is UP (If a bit thin)

Well, It's finally there:
"www.erols.com/brad442"
All that is there at the moment is info for OCA which includes events
and chapter listings.
Thanks to Bryceman for the Oldsmobile Service Sign.

More stuff each week, until the baby comes 'bout 5/20/97
Later
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
(H) brad442@erols.com
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
WWW Site - www.erols.com/brad442

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 18:47:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates & Personalized

(The funniest plate i've ever seen, BTW, was
TIH2-HO.  You will have to look at your monitor in a mirror to get that
one.

 I saw "QQQQ" on a Corvette one day.  I wondered how they got it by DMV
which
 isn't supposed to allow it.

 The Wiz

In Ohio, they seem to issue "Collector's Plates" to anything that has two
or more tires. I've seen some pretty trashy rides with these plates on
them. As for the Historical Plates, I've seen these on some "last-leg"
autos as well. I remember a '63 C*ddy with the rear doors roped shut
wearing Historical Tags. I was told (by the License Bureau) that these tags
are for vehicles being driven to and from Cars Shows and the like. You can
get "Model Year" plates once you have the Historical Plates, and Ohio is a
2-plate state which makes finding a pair kinda tough. Good thing I saved
all our plates from the 60s &70s!

This "car show" limitation is what's preventing me from getting them,
although they are a bargain compared to regular, annual plates. They've
also installed a computer in some License Bureaus allowing you to check on
plate availability. This saves a lot of hassle. You can find the plate you
want and walk over to a window and they'll order it for you. Before, you
had to send in a number of requests, and three-weeks later, they sent you
the application form with one of your choices. If you didn't want it, you
just tossed it wawy. Your tax dollars at rest!

BTW My boss, who is a very deranged man said he always wanted this plate:
FRBRGR sorry if I offend.

Paul Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
'69 Delta 88 Conv 455

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:59:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

>I love my Goodyear Eagle ST's, but my college roomate swears on his BFG
>radial T/A's.  I would choose between to two probably on looks, as their
>performance is almost identical as we can tell.

I've heard GY doesn't make Eagle ST's anymore.  I haven't confirmed this as
my last set of tires, which I bought about three years ago, I wanted soft
compound and tried BFG Comp TA VR4's, very satisfied and I'll probably get
them again...soon
I would recommend the Radial T/A's or Eagle ST's if you can find them.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com
or
csmetana@disc.sony.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - 1 is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback w/Comp T/A VR4's (that need to be replaced)

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:28:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

Tom,
My car's running Firestone Firehawks.  They had about 12k miles on them
when I bought the car 46k miles ago and they're still running strong.
I've seriously abused these tires (mostly cornering and not smoking since
my engine's "only" a four-banger!), run over nails, etc. and they've held
up just fine(with patching, of course).  They do fairly well in the snow
and ice, too. (Although I've never used any other kind of tire in the snow
and ice so I wouldn't know how they compare, in that respect.)  They have
great traction and I haven't had any problems with road noise or a rough
ride.

They were on the car when I bought it so I really couldn't tell you
how much they cost.

      Jim Townsend


------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:30:36 -0300
Subject: 1984 Hurst Olds for sale

It's in Ohio. [not mine]  307 rebuilt last year.
Asking around $6,000 I believe

(330) 757-9974 Ask for Bob

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:37:07 -0300
Subject: Car apprasials - auto insurance

I'm on vacation this week and have a lot of time on my hands (see
previous post) so I thought I'd get my 442 appraised, since that seems
to be the first step in getting antique auto insurance.

The weather in Chicago is finally getting nice, so I tooled out to
the Volo Auto Museum to get the appraisal on the 442.  Nice sunny day
for a drive in the country with the 442...



The appraisers first questions were "is that the original color? is
the car numbers matching?"

His next comment was "ya know, if you take the ram air system off and
sell it, its worth a couple grand".  I'm thinking to myself, yah, thats
probably what it cost me to put it on... :-)

He looked under the hood, in the car and in the trunk, looked under the rear
bumper at the under carrige, and had me start it up.  When it was running
he said " notice you have an exhaust leak".  I said huh?  I cant hear any
leak.  Either my hearing is going or he's been listening to too many
header equipped cars...

After all of five minutes we go inside and he writes it up.  I got excellent
points for Windshield Wipers (yah, right) lights, horn, (funny, he didnt even
press it) tires, wiring (I still have my electrical gauges half done,
and the wires are strung around the engine compartment) cooling (still have
the milk jug wired to the reservoir from the trip to the track last year)
Autheticity (well, it is a real 442) and roof (pitted paint).

  It scored very good in Engine start and Idle, exhaust system, brakes (he
asked
me if they were okay, I said I replaced the pads last year), Glass (looks
perfect to me) Body (no argument there) plating (he did ask if the bumpers
were rechromed, I said yes) Paint, Upholstery, instruments/dash, and "degree
of authenticity of restoration"

  I scored only fair for engine room and undercarrige (didnt wash the engine
off and there is rust on the frame and floor pans. The trunk floor has
been severly hacked and patched by previous owner).

  After all that, he prices it at $12,000.  After I get up off the floor,
he mentions that they just got in a '70 442 W-30 that was "pretty rough"
that when cleaned up they would be selling for around $15,000.  I went out
to look at it later and it looked original, but had headers and the headliner
probably needed help.  It was a gold color w/ black stripes and white
interior.

  He mentioned that the color of my car was a plus (I'll remember that next
time I'm dusting it off), 4 speed was desirable but the bench seat was
a drawback (I kinda like it) and no air was a minus (well, a black car
with no AC is kinda pushing it).

  I asked about mileage and he said if its got over 30k original miles, it
didnt really matter anymore.  Under 30k its considered low miles...

Now I guess its time to start shopping for insurance.  I assume that since
they wrote it up at $12k, I can get it insured for that amount.  Since I
paid nowhere near that for the car, can I still insure it for less?  Does
it make the premiums go down significantly?

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:44:44 -0300
Subject: Shroud to fender braces

Can anyone tell me the purpose of the "tubular" shroud to fender braces. I
did at one time have them on my car but they always seemed to have gotten in
the way when working on my engine. Ive misplaced the two i had since then
but am intrested in obtaining two more. Any sources??

Aaron
77" Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Tony Williams" <remaxrealtor1@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:43:55 -0300
Subject: 75 H/O

How do I stop the leak around the T-top? Of course the weatherstripping is not
 being manufactured. Is there a better way? My car is about 85% complete with
the big 455. Black

Tony Williams
remaxrealtor1@msn.com
800-263-9764

------------------------------

From: "Gilbert Russell" <russellg@dmv.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:48:28 -0300
Subject: re:1987 Cutlass Speakers

And I thought I was the only one that made the mistake of using a
screwdriver to remove the grills in the winter.  I removed them last summer
no problem tried the same thing in February and now I have 2 nice little
cracks in the dash.  I guess its time for a dash cover <sniff>.  No really
Replacing the 3 1/2" is not the only thing you will have to worry about if
you want a nice sounding stereo.  I also replaced the stock speakers with
100 watt pioneers  3 1/2" front and 4x10 back. Now you will notice that the
rear speakers will handle just about all volume levels but the front will
distort just about any bass signal other than low volumes.  you should
consult your local car audio shop and ask about "bass blockers" for the
front speakers this will allow you to fade the sound up front with out
distortion where the driver is and since bass is nondirectional you will
still get the benefit of what bass the 4 x 10's will give you.  If your
replacing the stock radio consider getting a sub woofer(s) and amp or at
least switching to 6 x 9 with adapter boxes for the rear deck.  This will
give you more punch to your music and make up a little for the poor speaker
placement used in the 80's G body olds.

Subject: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
Date:    4/22/97 9:26 PM

Pioneer 4X10's that I took out of my old car.  Now, the rear sounds great,
but
the front are distorting somewhat.  I plan on ordering a pair of Pioneer

3 1/2's this summer, but I need help on removing the grills.  I know that
someone told me how to do this last year on my 85 Cutlass, but I never got
around to doing it.  If someone could help me out it would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks.
    Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu


From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:36:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers

    Do this when the dash is warm so that
     it's pliable, when removing the speakers from my '79 in the dead of
     winter (to put the factory ones back, I was selling the car) I cracked

     my dash because it was too cold.

         Last comment:  Don't cheap out on the front speakers.  These are
the
     ones that you hear the most.  Get some good quality ones, the Pioneer
     are probably okay, I haven't heard them.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com




------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 18:52:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

I have Eagle STs on the back of my truck they seem to be pretty good
tires so far (3k miles on them). I had Eagle GTs on a '82 Cutlass once
they were TERRIBLE tires very poor wet weather traction and ok dry
weather traction and didn't last long. BFG Radial TAs on a '72 442
seemed to be good tires (2.5k miles on tires sold car kept tires &
rims).

Find out the tread wear rating number (higher the better) traction &
temp. rating (a-best c or d lowest). Then compare this with prices.

Hope this helps.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 19:50:30 -0300
Subject: http://www.geocities.com/baja/4590/



------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 20:13:24 -0300
Subject: Clearance Sale ª1 (4/28)

- -- Clearance Sale ª1 --

I have reduced the price on the following Oldsmobile related items which
were previously advertised but which did not sell:

1991 Oldsmobile Racing Cap.  White, with rocket logo and =B3The New
Generation of Oldsmobile Motorsports=B2 silkscreened on the front in
black, maroon, red, and orange.  Mesh back.  North Wilkesboro Winston
Cup Victory Lane souvineer.  Very good condition.  Originally advertised
at $15.00.  Now $12.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

1957 Oldsmobile Chassis Parts Book.  Dated January 1, 1957.  Covers
approximately 1940 to 1957 part number listings by group and
description, with illustrations.  Shop worn and with a few loose pages,
but it appears to be complete and in good condition.  Originally
advertised at $80.00 plus shipping.  Now $60.00, including shipping to
any address in North America.

1988 Oldsmobile Aerotech showroom poster.  =B3World=B9s Fastest Moving Car
Company=B2 in six inch tall letters, with listing of records set by the
car at Ft. Stockton, Texas.  Also has a large straight-on picture of AJ
Foyt driving the car (image of car is about 36 inches wide).  Poster is
about 38 x 50 inches and in very good condition.  Originally advertised
at $25.00.  Now $20.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

(4/28/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
any of these items, or if you would like additional information about
any of them.  Thank you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª636
********************************
