To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #678


oldsmobile-digest          Saturday, 17 May 1997       Volume 01 : Number 678

Re: Dash Painting
Re: 68
Re: Overheating
Re: 68 toro
Re: NEED PULLEY
Re: Overheating
Overheating
Overheating
Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
'62 F-85
Re: 1982 Delta Royale
Rochester
Re: Overheating
Re: Driveline Vibration
Re: Rochester
(Fwd) Rochester
(Fwd) '62 F-85
Re: Overheating
gotta go...
.
Re: Rochester
Re: '62 F-85 - radiator opinion
MIG Welder, Miller Specs
Re: '62 F-85 - radiator opinion
Axle Bearing Failure
Re: 68
Re: 68
Radiators/Overheating

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: IBDEA@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 20:35:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash Painting

Are'nt keys made of brass? Just my .02 worth.

                                                       Bob Peters

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 21:01:09 -0300
Subject: Re: 68

On Fri, 16 May 1997, Graham Cain wrote:
>         I own a 1968 Cutlass Supreme with a 442 hood and rear tail lights
> along with all the other Supreme crome and decals, but the engine is a six
> cylinder. It is a hard top without a/c and has an automatic transmission.
> The car was won, as is, at the Calgary Stampede, most likely in 1968, but I
> am not positive. The car was provided by Jack Carter Olds in Calgary. I was
> hoping you could tell me if this a common configuration and if you have the
> production numbers and other technical information, including magazine
> write-ups, about this particular car. Any information would be greatly
> appreciated.

It certainly isn't a common configuration... in fact, it wasn't available
from the factory that way. Every '68 Supreme I've ever seen or heard
about had a 350-4bbl standard and a non-442 hood. I wonder if it was a
Cutlass S that was "supremized" by the dealer? If you can post the info
on the body plate on the cowl under the hood on the driver's side we can
decode it for you and solve the mystery.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 21:10:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

Tom Lentz wrote:

>      1) Thermostat.  Cheap and easy to replace, but I've never heard of one
>      doing something like this.  I've had them just stop working before,
>      but never only partially open.

My thermostat seemed like it was partially open for a while before I
replaced it.  The engine ran REAL warm in the city and over 200 on the
highway until I replaced the thermo.  It helped a little, the the
radiator replacement helped alot.  Also, the intake manifold gasket leak
was fixed and that pretty much kinked the problem.

>      2) Fan clutch.  I don't see any silicone leakage around the fan
>      clutch, and when the engine is shut off warm and I give the fan a good
>      spin by hand it doesn't freewheel more than 1/4 turn or so.  The guy
>      at the radiator shop said to do that and if it spun more than 1 1/2
>      times it was bad.

Mine spins about 1/4 turn, also...I guess this is okay.

>
>      3) Water pump.  There is no leakage out of the weep holes that are
>      supposed to leak when the seals go, but there are some corrosion
>      "tracks" as evidence that something has leaked out of there in the
>      past.  No noise coming from that area that would indicate bad bearings
>      either.

Where are the dried bands coming from?  A I mentioned before, my intake
manifold gasket was leaking and the mechanic said it was a failed water
pump, not the gasket.  Maybe your head gasket is leaking.  Or, maybe the
thermo. area is leaky.

Hope this helps.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 21:19:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 68 toro

> From: JNelson751@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: jnelson751@aol.com
> Subject: 68 toro
> Date: Thursday, May 15, 1997 11:48 PM
>
> there's a guy in town(davenport,ia) who is going to part out a 68 toro in
a
> couple
> days, if somebody needs something in particular let me know,i'll check on
it
> (sorry, the motor is mine)
>   jeff
> 69 442 conv

Where is this Toro at? I need a set of grills and  good steering wheel.

  Daniel Hall
  cdhall@mci2000.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 21:37:39 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

At 01:35 PM 5/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Great, what do I need to do, send you a money order or do you take credit
>credit cards?
>Whats your address?
>Rick

Rick

        You can send a check or money order to me. My address is:

Jim Chermack
1132 Chatmoss Drive
Virginia Beach, VA 23464
(757)474-0869

Jim

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 22:14:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

Dustin Cross wrote:
>
> On Thu, 15 May 1997, Tom Lentz wrote:
>
> >      Thanks in advance!  I hope I can get this licked within a week,
> >      supposed to be taking a trip to Montana, land of scared sheep and no
> >      speed limits.
> >
>
> where in Montana are you going?
>
> BTW  the speed limit is "reasonable and prudent" in the daytime  I got a
> ticket for 90mph on a corner (wide corner)  but that is the only daytime
> ticket I've gotten since they eliminated the 55  (I usualy drive 85-90)
>

I'm going to Missoula for the weekend.  Did the drive last year and
there was maybe a grand total of 20 miles of I-90 that wasn't under
destru... I mean construction. :-(

Overheating update:  I checked out the fan clutch, it seems to be
working normally.  I can definitely tell when it's engaged and blowing
and when it's not.  I checked the timing and it was at 12 degrees
(supposed to be 20), dunno how it got that way (it was fine last year)
but I set it back to 20, didn't make a difference on the cooling any.  I
think things might have to wait until Monday now for a new thermostat.
I hope that does it!

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 22:57:22 -0300
Subject: Overheating

OL>     2) Fan clutch.  I don't see any silicone leakage around the fan
OL>     clutch, and when the engine is shut off warm and I give the fan a good
OL>     spin by hand it doesn't freewheel more than 1/4 turn or so.  The guy
OL>     at the radiator shop said to do that and if it spun more than 1 1/2
OL>     times it was bad.

OL>     Tom Lentz
OL>     tlentz@teknon.com

I had a bad fan clutch once.  The mechanic diagnosed it by watching
the fan when I shut the motor off.  If it free wheels the clutch is
bad.

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\ (810)
825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/ Sterling Hts.,
MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 23:01:43 -0300
Subject: Overheating

> Yes, OPEN, if the thermostat hangs open after warming up, the water will
> passs through the radiator too quickly to cool down. I have seen this
> mean times.
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

Here we go again!

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\ (810)
825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/ Sterling Hts.,
MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 23:48:22 -0300
Subject: Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

Hey all.

Yeah, looks like I'll make a day of it. I'll probably hit the town at circa 9
AM and pop in at C.B.'s for a belated breakfast and then waddle around the
show with the additional ballast. I'll be in Soylent Ocean Mist. I am certain
that all the other cars will make me really embarassed to tool around in it.
No, it still has the old 2GC on board, no mods to see here. If anyone is
wondering if that car is mine, I have a high rust:paint ratio. Something like
1:2.54 (and you do not have to count tire rotations!) I hope to meet those of
you who will be there at the show, because it looks like I will be hitting
A&B almost immediately afterwards because if I meet with youse guyse at da
food joint, da day will drag on, and will allow less time for pulling parts.
I wish Hall's was still a going concern. See you all in a few hours.



Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Soylent Ocean Mist is made of people. It's people! (yeah, it'll be the death
of me yet)

Edwardian Gun Runners?

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 02:08:30 -0300
Subject: '62 F-85

I have been informed by my father that my '62 Olds F-85 is in need of
some repair. My dad is driving my '62 back in Spokane Washington and
apparently the tranny is leaking and the radiator had some shotty
work done by a local radiator shop about 3 years ago.

I am looking for a 2 or 3 row radiator for a

62 F-85 215 V-8 (61-63 should work, I'm just don't have any books
with me on ship) and either

tranny cooler lines to the radiator or a

rubber pan gasket for the Hydromatic 3-spd

much appreciated

Ben

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 22:52:31 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 Delta Royale

Hi all,

I guess I haven't said too much the last couple of days.  Since I am
not getting any Olds-related mail at work anymore, the only time I get
mail is either before I go to work or after I get off from work.  I
have a question/statement/whatever...

The new 1982 Delta Royale, even though not like the 442, is not too
bad a car.  I don't particularly like the second/third gear
sluggishness, however, first gear is nice.  It gets you off the line
fairly well.  Well I finally got that GM Production Options paperwork,
hold on a minute, it is for trucks.  A lot of good that will do me!
I guess cars and trucks have different codes.  I don't know.  The point
to this is that I was looking up the option codes on my Fischer plate
and saw that the GM-PO says it is California emissions related.
Bummer!  I thought this car was special in some way.  With the sport
mirros, pin striping, spoke hubcaps, wide tires, very nice handling,
rally pack, A/C, all power, two-door coupe with opera windows may be
unique.  I guess not?

I am amazed at how well this car negotiates corners.  Very nice.  It
may not have power to pass on the freeway, it makes up with a good
smooth drive.  I definitely like the car.  I know someone who is
selling a 1978? Cutlass two-door coupe for $1,200.  Not really sure of
the condition though.  I don't know if that is a reasonable price.

I miss the all-day e-mails I was getting at work.  The company is on
a witch hunt I think (Yes my pretty and your dog too.....) :-)

Has anyone seen the commerical on TV about Oldsmobile.  They had a
fleet of 56's? on a freeway.  I was in awe!

Later...

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 02:11:54 -0300
Subject: Rochester

I am looking for a Rochester 4mv somewhere around 650-700 CFM with
Vacuum secondaries if they were available... I own a 68 442 with a
400 and want to take that damned H*ll*y off and put some stock back
into my baby.

I am also looking for the forced air components to add the look of
w-30 ie
scoops, tubbing, and filter canister.

thank you

Ben

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 06:21:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

At 11:01 PM 5/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>> Yes, OPEN, if the thermostat hangs open after warming up, the water will
>> passs through the radiator too quickly to cool down. I have seen this
>> mean times.

Yeah, it's just hard to imagine a thermostat of any style, even fully open,
that's even close to non-restrictive...  With the thermostat being ~gone~
I'd consider this a possibility, although I've never actually encounterred
it (knowingly:)  Just my cooling philosophies....


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 08:16:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibration

On Thu, 15 May 1997 23:18:10 -0300 "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com> writes:
>At 02:31 PM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>
>>Oldsmopeople,
>>I'm getting a weird vibration in what may be the driveline at about
>50-65 mph. Very disconcerting. I think it might be the driveshaft,
tranny
>or a wheel out of balance. Do you have any advice about what order I
should eliminate the candidates?
>>
>>I was thinking about rotating and balancing the wheels this weekend,
>>then check the tranny, then the driveshaft. Are there any other
candidate parts which might generate unpleasant vibrations only between
50-65 mph? It seems to happen only when the motor is pushing the car,
when I shift out of drive and let it coast
>>at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.
>>
>>Ideas?
>>
>>TIA

I've had this problem. The first time , I tried to use a flywheel from a
350 engine on a 330 engine. That don't WORK !! I also checked into other
causes at that time. I discovered that the torque converter can cause
some vibration, if not set up properly.
The book (factory Olds Manual for a 79 Cutlass) suggested that a person
rotates the torque converter 120 degrees(one set of bolt holes). Then
test drive the car. If that doesn't work , it said to rotate it another
120 degrees. If that doesn't work, I would suggest looking at the tranny.
I've noticed that when my tranny starts getting ready to go out, (I've
gone through 2 TH350 trannnies), I start getting a vibration. Just my  $
.02 worth.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: James244@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 11:15:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Rochester

Ben,
 Year One has a NEW GM 69 W30 Quadrajet for about $400.00 that should work
very well for your 68 442. I bought one for my 69 442 a couple of years ago.
I believe it's a good price for a brand new Quadrajet. It might be set up a
little to rich for your 68, but would be pretty easy to set up any way you
want. They also have primary jets and secondary rods so you can set up the
carb any way you would like.

James
86 442
69 442 4 spd

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 15:24:50 -0300
Subject: (Fwd) Rochester

I am looking for a Rochester 4mv somewhere around 650-700 CFM with
Vacuum secondaries if they were available... I own a 68 442 with a
400 and want to take that damned H*ll*y off and put some stock back
into my baby.

I am also looking for the forced air components to add the look of
w-30 ie
scoops, tubbing, and filter canister.

thank you

Ben

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 15:19:08 -0300
Subject: (Fwd) '62 F-85

I have been informed by my father that my '62 Olds F-85 is in need of
some repair. My dad is driving my '62 back in Spokane Washington and
apparently the tranny is leaking and the radiator had some shotty
work done by a local radiator shop about 3 years ago.

I am looking for a 2 or 3 row radiator for a

62 F-85 215 V-8 (61-63 should work, I'm just don't have any books
with me on ship) and either

tranny cooler lines to the radiator or a

rubber pan gasket for the Hydromatic 3-spd

much appreciated

Ben

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 12:47:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

> >> Yes, OPEN, if the thermostat hangs open after warming up, the water will
> >> passs through the radiator too quickly to cool down. I have seen this
> >> mean times.
>
> Yeah, it's just hard to imagine a thermostat of any style, even fully open,
> that's even close to non-restrictive...  With the thermostat being ~gone~
> I'd consider this a possibility, although I've never actually encounterred
> it (knowingly:)  Just my cooling philosophies....

One day last summer, my cousin came over complaining that the car ('77
DeVille) had been making "bubbling" noises.....  for the past _two_ weeks!
I removed the thermostat, which was stuck partially open.  There wasn't
any problem with overheating, despite the loss of a restriction.
A mechanic friend of mine has removed quite a few thermostats during the
summer months, when a replacement was not immediately available, without
incurring any overheating problems.

On a related note, I recently replaced a thermostat (in a friend's '90
3800 V6) which had ceased functioning (thankfully) in the fully open
position.  I discovered this problem while testing my recently acquired
Diacom 'scantool' software; monitoring the coolant temperature did not
show a characteristic rise then levelling off around 200F, instead, the
readings fluctuated in the vicinity of 160F.  This indicates that, for
this particular car, the cooling system capacity far exceeds what is
required for 50F ambient temperature, hence the thermostat would have
normally been in an intermediate position to reduce coolant flow.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 16:07:49 -0300
Subject: gotta go...

After only three days on the list I must be saying goodbye. I am
leaving the ship and the security of my email. Any replies to my
mails can still be sent to the list for a couple of more days. After
that I request the replies to my pleas be sent to my address as seen
bellow. THANK YOU and OLDS 4 EVER!!!

Ben

j3910@boxer.navy.mil

------------------------------

From: Nick314@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 15:47:11 -0300
Subject: .

List Oldsmobile Piazza44@Juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Jack E. Logan, Sr" <logans@sunherald.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 15:58:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Rochester

LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3 X7402 wrote:

> I am looking for a Rochester 4mv somewhere around 650-700 CFM with
> Vacuum secondaries if they were available... I own a 68 442 with a
> 400 and want to take that damned H*ll*y off and put some stock back
> into my baby.
>
> I am also looking for the forced air components to add the look of
> w-30 ie
> scoops, tubbing, and filter canister.
>
> thank you
>
> Ben

 Marine,
If you are really looking for some helpful advice, talk to the EN1 or
ENC in ships company (A Gang).  If you are lucky enough to have an
engineman that knows the correct name for all of the orfices of his own
body, you have a valuable knowledge source at your disposal thoug it may
take a little cumshaw to get their direct help (and *everybody* knows
that a grunt aviator needs all the help he can get).
Jack E. Logan, Sr.
MMCM(SW), USN(Ret)

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 16:01:32 -0300
Subject: Re: '62 F-85 - radiator opinion

> I am looking for a 2 or 3 row radiator for a
>
> 62 F-85 215 V-8 (61-63 should work, I'm just don't have any books
> with me on ship) and either
My 2 cents, just measure width, height, both hose diameters, and spend
the $200 for a new one (a 30-year old radiator just doesn't seem worth it).

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 18:30:00 -0300
Subject: MIG Welder, Miller Specs

Some suscribers were interested in Miller specs: My machine is
"Millermatic 130 & GA-17C Gun" (Gun is included standard with unit-no
extra)
**begin spec Millermatic 130**
Type of output-Constant voltage direct current (CV/DC)
Rated weld output-90 Amperes, 18 volts DC at 20% Duty Cycle
Amperage Range-30-130A
Type of input-Single-Phase; 115 volts AC; 60 Hz
Input Amperes at Rated Output-20A
Input Amperes While Idling-0.592 A
KVA/KW Used at Rated Output-3kva/2.7kw
KVA/KW Used While Idling-0.068kva/0.043kw
Max. Open-Circuit Voltage-30 Volts DC
Control Circuit Voltage at Gun-24 Volts DC
Calculated Speed range At No Load-283 To 716 ipm (7.1 To 17.9 mpm)
Wire Diameter Range-0.023 To 0.035 in. (0.58 To 0.89 mm)
Input Power Cord- 7 ft
Weight- 73 lb (33kg)
Gun Ratings-170 Amperes; 60% Duty Cycle; wire size 0.023 to 0.035 in;
Gun cable Length 10 ft; cooling method-air
(Shipped, set up with & for flux core-you will need a tank and regulator
and solid wire for auto work.)

*Suggested settings section indicates machine can be used with flux
Cored wire .030 & .035:
*Solid mild steel wire 0.023 & 0.030 with either 100% CO2 gas or 75%
Argon 25% CO2 gas.
*Solid Stainless 0.023 & 0.030 & 0.035 solid wires with tri-mix gas.
*Aluminum 0.030 & 0.035 solid wires with Argon gas.
**end spec Millermatic 130**
Proof read 3X please don't cane me for errors.
This unit is also available with a heavier duty gun, choice of 10 ft or
15 ft, 170 amps that runs a 0.045 solid cored wire in addition to the
0.023-0.035 solids.
Also of interest, there is a MIG selection discussion running and
located: HTTP://atlas.unm.edu/smith/metal4.faq.HTML
Contains many opinions and descriptions of Lincoln, Miller, Hobart MIGS,
etc from a welding crowd.
Also try WWW.lincolnelectric.com
Additional comments: As I recall, while shopping, some MIG units require
a liner change to convert from flux core to solid wire or for using
aluminum wire/ Miller does not. Also recall some units used a teflon
liner in gun cable-This is a wearing item -Miller does not use
teflon-has a liner that looks like a manual choke cable casing, works
for all wires. Finally, Miller weight is 73lb and I recall others mfgs
around 60lb. I havn't looked for a lead weight in the unit but I assumed
the extra pounds were in core & coil & casing.
If anybody is serious about purchasing a MIG-start collecting vice-grips
and clamps of any type now.
And....I'M not affiliated with Miller Electric in any way.
And... finally the address:
Miller Electric Mfg. Co.
1635 West Spencer
Appleton, WI 54914
414-734-9821
Kevin O'Brien
78-98

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 19:05:31 -0300
Subject: Re: '62 F-85 - radiator opinion

> > I am looking for a 2 or 3 row radiator for a
> >
> > 62 F-85 215 V-8 (61-63 should work, I'm just don't have any books
> > with me on ship) and either
> My 2 cents, just measure width, height, both hose diameters, and spend
> the $200 for a new one (a 30-year old radiator just doesn't seem worth it).

The price for a new one is now problem. My car is in Washington. I
live in Arizona, but am currently in the Red Sea on deployment. I
thought someone would have a "new" radiator for a 61-63 olds F-85....
Thax for the help though

Ben
'62 F-85
'68 4-4-2


------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 19:53:46 -0300
Subject: Axle Bearing Failure

The following relates to "pressed on axle bearings" ""mechanics"" and
the "Olds service Manual".
This is a passenger side rear bearing failure that occured at ~60mph on
flat road on a nowhere barrier beach.
The speedometer whipped up to 80mph and dropped to 0-mph (3 seconds);
Loud rubbing from rear quarter; Guessed that the axle slid out (3
seconds): Spline damage, axle housing damage, axle damage etc were my
first thoughts (~6 seconds), next-figured the drum was off the rear
brake shoes (3 seconds)-down shifting was useless as was the emergency
brake-Thought I would get one shot out of the hydraulics before I blew
the pistons out of the rear brake cylinder-coasted a bit trying to steer
the axle and wheel inward off the wheel well-used very very light pedal
to get some front brakes when I ran out of road approaching a bridge.
That worked well (the rear pistons never blew all the way out although
the shoes were well out on the backing plate): This was all over in 2
minutes or less.
Next: Phone call, Jack up car, tire off axle, Junkyard Odyssey, visited
C-Boxes full of axles, no 98's, got even sicker when I found out left &
right axles are different lengths.
Next: Walked into first parts store in sight, Colvin Auto Parts, Babylon
Tpk, Merrick NY, drenching wet/axle on shoulder-called to head of line
by owner. Bearing $42 + seal $8 + gear oil $6 + magnet $8 (to fish
bearing remains out of housing) + labor to press on new
bearing-retainer-seal $8. (Nice outfit, could have gouged me easily)
They thought the axle was OK, and the new bearing pressed on tight. They
handed over old parts for my examination in the forensics lab (kitchen
table).
Next: Installed axle, baby car home, top off fluid, etc. What a day!
Next: Examine the failed parts. From the bible, the 79-98 service
manual"...put the seal on first, then press on the bearing, then press
on the retaining ring... Warning-do not press on retainer and bearing at
the same time, together." OK. Upon examining the failed parts, cracked
outer race, smashed bearing cage, etc I noticed a very very large CHISEL
gouge in the retainer. How clever! The failed bearing ""mechanic"" (not
Colvin Auto Parts) drove the retainer on with a cold chisel. Who can
guess how the bearing went on? I always admire field expedience and
ingenuity. Really, I was impressed.
Next: Figured I should do the driver side. So, back to the bible"....To
remove the bearing retainer, take a cold chisel and strike the retainer
in several places..this will expand the retainer and make its removal
easy..."
So, thank you Mr.""mechanic"" for ensuring that my bearing retainer was
useless and my axle would slide out without warning sooner or later!
Next: Well, I guess there is no certain next-just a good feeling about
knowing why the bearing assembly failed, verification that repairs "by
the book" are the best, respect for a businessman (Colvin) that could
have gouged me and, not only didn't, but went out of his way to help
out, good feelings that the rear end, wheel well and that endless
quarter panel weren't damaged, and an urge, that diminishes daily, to
visit the ""mechanic"" who changed that bearing, years ago. While he
should probably be educated, I have decided to avoid a situation which
would likely require me to wear a straight-jacket just to prevent the
education from going too far.
Thank you for listening and I hope somebody gets something out of this
info. It was an education for me.
Kevin O'Brien 78-98

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 18:51:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 68

>         The information obtained fron the body plate is as follows
>
>         MADE IN CANADA
>         B96M31
>         ST6833587 0533866
>         TR 957 1-5-24 RR

OK, I'm having some trouble with this one. I can't make any sense of the
"B96M31" line at all, unless it's the options code line which normally is
at the bottom of the plate. M31 is Jetaway automatic and B96 is chrome
wheel opening moldings. I *can* tell you that the "ST6833587" designates a
Cutlass L-6 Holiday Coupe (not a Cutlass Supreme). I suspect the rest of
that line has a typo in it. I believe that a Canadian car should then
have a plate that reads "OS" (for the Oshawa plant) and then the body
sequence ª. "TR957" indicates a Parchment bench seat in the Cutlass
model. You've got me stumped also with the "1-5-24 RR" bit too. Can
anyone else assist?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Graham Cain <gcain@uvic.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 20:00:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 68

At 06:51 PM 5/17/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>         The information obtained fron the body plate is as follows
>>
>>         MADE IN CANADA
>>         B96M31
>>         ST6833587 0533866
>>         TR 957 1-5-24 RR
>
>OK, I'm having some trouble with this one. I can't make any sense of the
>"B96M31" line at all, unless it's the options code line which normally is
>at the bottom of the plate. M31 is Jetaway automatic and B96 is chrome
>wheel opening moldings. I *can* tell you that the "ST6833587" designates a
>Cutlass L-6 Holiday Coupe (not a Cutlass Supreme). I suspect the rest of
>that line has a typo in it. I believe that a Canadian car should then
>have a plate that reads "OS" (for the Oshawa plant) and then the body
>sequence ª. "TR957" indicates a Parchment bench seat in the Cutlass
>model. You've got me stumped also with the "1-5-24 RR" bit too. Can
>anyone else assist?
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>       All the info, besides the 'OS' typo, is in the exact same order on
the plate as I showed you. 'BODY PAINT' is stamped across from the 1-5-24
RR, and the car is red, so there may be some correlation. My car does have a
bench seat aswell. In the way of options I have nothing extra except maybe
the cigarette lighter or the stereo?  Unfortuanately I have no one else to
ask about it. Are there any differences in the supreme version besides the
crome 'S' symbols and and the larger engine?

Graham Cain Victoria, B.C., Canada
>
>

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 20:53:19 -0300
Subject: Radiators/Overheating

Posts to this general thread has occured, and a remark or two have me
wondering.  And after sleeping on it: that inate Missouri 'show me' is
surfacing it's ugly head again, and let us say the show me syndrome needs to
be satisfied.

I am not going to buy 'a car will over heat because it doesn't have a
t'stat.'  To those that may have bought this piece of data at it's face
value OK, but I need to be lead by the hand to see the way.  (And more on
this later).

My problem with the possiblity of this being the cause of overheating
trouble leads me to think back.  Say to before 1930 when NO car had a
t'stat.  They just starting happening in the very late 1920s, and while the
cars built prior to this certainly had overheating problems, IT COULD NOT
HAVE BEEN THERMOSTAT RELATED...  Because they didn't have thermostats!

Hell the Model T Ford didn't even have a water pump!

The poster to this thread that said that removal of the t'stat would cause
overheating because the water would circulate so FAST that it didn't spend
enough time, in the radiator, to have the air remove the heat.  I know that
the waterpump can handel a serious amount of volume, but seriously, if this
thread were remotely accurate, it wouldn't spend enough time in the block to
remove the heat there also.  The oil and exhaust would then be required to
take up the slack...

The heat removal TIME element in a Model T, was caused by the construction
in the tubes, not the t'stat; why, because as I said above it doesn't have a
water pump, but it does have the equivalent of 'tubes.'

Now, having an open mind; anyone with a differeing opinion is certainly
welcome to change it.

Now for the 'and more on this later.'  The opposite is NOT true.  On a very
cold winter's day, if you start your cold car, and notice the anti-freeze
has run out, so you decide to replace it with plain water only, as the car
is running and should keep the water hot, hence from freezing.  If it is
cold enough the water may not circulate at all, and therefore allow the
radiator to freeze, even though the engine is at t'stat temp.

OK

Let me have it.

The Wiz



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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª678
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