To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #647


oldsmobile-digest            Monday, 5 May 1997         Volume 01 : Number 647

'78 Olds Delta 88, suspension tips
Re: alternator position on 455
Ralley Pac, 69 442
Re: Valvetrain noise
Re: Re[2]: Valves
Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube (and AT Rocke
Re: Custom Whitewalls and Tires
Re: Stripe Options (fwd)
Re: Junkyard find - '64 442
Re: Ralley Pac, 69 442
Re: Custom Whitewalls and Tires
Re: '78 Olds Delta 88, suspension tips
Re:Vacuum is better!
Re: Ralley Pac, 69 442
Re: '70 98 conv.
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: '70 98 conv.
70 olds vin
Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube (and AT Rocke
Musclecars collectors cards
[none]
Tranny flow question?
4 barrel
Re:  425's
Re: Stripe Options (fwd)
Re: 70 olds vin
Re: alternator position on 455
Electrical Systems Trouble Shooting
Re: Musclecars collectors cards
Re: 4 barrel
blockhugger headers, olds
Re: Electrical Systems Trouble Shooting
Re: Tranny flow question?
rear differential
Re: blockhugger headers, olds
Re: rear differential
Re: Electrical Question
blockhugger
Olds "tech tips" (fwd)
Re: blockhugger headers, olds
HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.
Re: Musclecars collectors cards
New England get together
Re: rear differential
Re: 425's   (+ small V.C. reference)
Re: Custom Whitewalls and Tires (non-olds)
Re: Saturday and the salvage lot :)
Re: Electrical Systems Trouble Shooting
Re: 4 barrel
Re: Ralley Pac, 69 442
Re:  425's
Re: blockhugger headers, olds
must specify subject
Re: Electrical Question
Re: New England get together
Re: rear differential

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 07:16:12 -0300
Subject: '78 Olds Delta 88, suspension tips

I've posted before, but I don't believe anybody recieved my message.  I
own a '78 Olds Delta 88 2 door coupe (350R/TH350).  I know these cars
are not very popular in the performance and handling dept. but I would
like some info on suspension tips, mostly where I can get a hold of some
9C1 Caprice front/rear springs for my car to improve the ride.  I've
already purchased a 1.25" front sway bar from a 2nd. gen. F-body (NAISSO
members tell me it'll fit) and I'm going to be putting a bigger rear
sway bar on (a 1 incher if I can find one).

Also I have a few questions about the 400-425-455 big blocks, mostly
I know one will bolt into my cavernous engine bay on the stock mounts,
but what brackets should I go with if I do attempt this 'swap'?  The car
is a California car (unfortunately :P) and has a smog pump and plenty of
vaccum hoses.  Mostly I want to know which blocks/heads/other parts are
good...  Is it less expensive to go the 425 or the 455?

Mike Jones
1978 Olds Delta 88

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 09:24:16 -0300
Subject: Re: alternator position on 455

OL>I haven't figured out exactlywhat I have yet, but my first problem is the
alternator belt OL>broke on the drive home.  I replaced it and the other
(short) belt broke.  When I OL>opened the hood I saw the alternator belt
(long) is about to break again!  It look OL>like the belt is lined up
correctly to me but now I'm confused.

Make sure all of the bolts are on and tight on you brackets. You might
also check to to if there is any bracket braces missing. Just the
littlest bit of looseness in the brackets can cause a lot of belt
problems. Experience speaks here!

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 10:45:48 -0300
Subject: Ralley Pac, 69 442

Got my ralley pac installed the other day but need some electrical help.
The dark green wire to the temperature sending unit and the blue dbl
white striped wire to the oil pressure sending unit were cut by the
previous owner when he installed the under dash gages.  Where I don't
know.  Since the harness are wraped, I'm not sure what wires were
clustered together when they enter the firewall (engine side).  Can
someone tell me the routing of the temperature/oil pressure wires and in
which branch of the harness they are located.  Are they routed over the
LH valve cover or from the LH inner fender?

By the way, I found out that installing the gages was a test of patience
and dexterity.....something pretty hard for someone 6' 5" tall.

Wayne Schwartz
wschwart@IAW.on.ca

------------------------------

From: "dayc" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 04:40:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Valvetrain noise

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I have a similiar engine from a 68 Delta with C heads and the lovely =
red(orange paint)
It also had a cool air cleaner.  The Rocket 455 emblem is metal instead =
of being a decal. Real cool
I paid $350 for the whole car including a good(but long) Turbo 400       =
                                       =20
Corey Day dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Cutlass S
 ----
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Tuesday, April 29, 1997 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: Valvetrain noise

At 01:52 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The engine with the forged steel crank is one that I bought from a =
local
>junkyard.
>I'd called the guy looking for one I could rebuild between '68-'70.  He
>told me he had one from a '71. I went and looked at it and noticed it =
was a
>'68 with no heads, 2-barrel intake.  GAve him $50 for it, brought it =
home,
>sprayed it down with oven cleaner, let it set overnight.  Cleaned and
>sprayed with high-pressure hose and revealed red paint (which indicated =
it
>was an early '68).  Took oil pan off, found ª's 400943 on the rear =
throw,
>saw the wide parting lines.  I also noticed that the front throw has =
"AC"
>stamped in it.  Does anyone know what this means?  AC Delco?  I think =
it's
>the original crank for the block.  The block's a '68 F4.

You are the MAN!!! What a find, and what a buy!

This is the second confirmed sighting of a Forged 455 crank from a 2-bbl
motor. That settles it, folks; stop parting out those Toros; you want =
those
Deltas with the towing package and the 2-bbl motors!

>My valvetrain noise is coming from one valve only, it appears.  this =
makes
>me think it's a loose valve seat.

Yikes! Depending on the compression test, you may want to pull the head
before you drop a valve.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918




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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<P>I have a similiar engine from a 68 Delta with C heads and the lovely=20
red(orange paint)</P>

<P>It also had a cool air cleaner.  The Rocket 455 emblem is metal =
instead of=20
being a decal. Real cool

<P>I paid $350 for the whole car including a good(but long) Turbo 400    =
       =20
                                  =20

<P>Corey Day <A =
href=3D"mailto:dayc@ix.netcom.com">dayc@ix.netcom.com</A>

<P>1970 Cutlass S</P>
 ----<BR>
<B>From: </B>Robert Barry &lt;rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU&gt;<BR>
<B>To: </B>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR>
<B>Date: </B>Tuesday, April 29, 1997 4:26 PM<BR>
<B>Subject: </B>Re: Valvetrain noise<BR>
<BR>
<HTML><BODY><FONT size=3D2>At 01:52 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:<BR>
&gt;The engine with the forged steel crank is one that I bought from a =
local<BR>
&gt;junkyard.<BR>
&gt;I'd called the guy looking for one I could rebuild between =
'68-'70.&nbsp;=20
He<BR>
&gt;told me he had one from a '71. I went and looked at it and noticed =
it was=20
a<BR>
&gt;'68 with no heads, 2-barrel intake.&nbsp; GAve him $50 for it, =
brought it=20
home,<BR>
&gt;sprayed it down with oven cleaner, let it set overnight.&nbsp; =
Cleaned=20
and<BR>
&gt;sprayed with high-pressure hose and revealed red paint (which =
indicated=20
it<BR>
&gt;was an early '68).&nbsp; Took oil pan off, found ª's 400943 on the =
rear=20
throw,<BR>
&gt;saw the wide parting lines.&nbsp; I also noticed that the front =
throw has=20
&quot;AC&quot;<BR>
&gt;stamped in it.&nbsp; Does anyone know what this means?&nbsp; AC =
Delco?&nbsp;=20
I think it's<BR>
&gt;the original crank for the block.&nbsp; The block's a '68 F4.<BR>
<BR>
You are the MAN!!! What a find, and what a buy!<BR>
<BR>
This is the second confirmed sighting of a Forged 455 crank from a =
2-bbl<BR>
motor. That settles it, folks; stop parting out those Toros; you want =
those<BR>
Deltas with the towing package and the 2-bbl motors!<BR>
<BR>
&gt;My valvetrain noise is coming from one valve only, it appears.&nbsp; =
this=20
makes<BR>
&gt;me think it's a loose valve seat.<BR>
<BR>
Yikes! Depending on the compression test, you may want to pull the =
head<BR>
before you drop a valve.<BR>
_______________________________________________________<BR>
Dr. Robert Barry&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu">MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Pro=
vidence.Edu</A><BR>
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></FONT>
</BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 11:19:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Valves

Karl said>
> For this one we need a metalurgist. I believe the Wiz is right (of
course).
> The engine ultimately reaches its running temperature regardless of what
the
> valves are made of.
> Chicago, IL
Isn't he usually? He must have a mind like steel trap. Stainless Steel of
course.

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 11:29:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube (and AT Rocke

From: WMACHINES@aol.com

In a message dated 97-05-02 18:55:04 EDT, you write:

>Hi Jeff, you do have to be careful, Red Line synthetic oils have a posi and
>non-posi
>synthetic lube. Its availible through Summit Racing.  The posi gear oil is a
>75W-90 with the part number RED-57904.  It costs 9.50 a bottle.  The non-posi
>oil is
>75w-90 with the part number Red-58304 and costs the same.

Thanks for all the input guys.  I'm gonna go out and change it today
(after I do a few hot laps of the neighborhood to warm up the oil first :-)

>BTW JEFF, I have been telling people about your AT.jpeg and that they should
>use it at Lansing in August.  I told them to make iron ons or on a piece of
>paper on their car.  Myself, I am having it put on a hat.  What a great idea
>you came up with.

Cool.  Everybody going to Lansing ought to print it off and put it in
their windows so we can ID each other.

How did you get it put on a hat?  I went to the mall's embroidery shop
last year and had a nice hat done w/ a "442" and underneath "Rocket
Science" which came out okay but you could only pick from their standard
fonts.  How did you get the custom work done?

I cant claim credit for the idea.  That goes to Tom Lentz.  I just implemented
it...

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
1970  442  4-Speed
see the archives (and AT Rocket gif) at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: <Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 11:56:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Custom Whitewalls and Tires

>
> You wrote:
>
> I'm amazed at the price of whitewalls.  I have a '53 Super 88 and wish I
> could get some good whitewalls for a descent price.  Does anyone know of
> any good places to try?  I also have another question.  I was once at an
> auction down in Las Vegas when I came across a handout on how to customize
> whitewall size.  Has anyone seen or heard about anything like this?  I've
> looked in a few books about it and have never found anything on it.
>
>                                                 Just Curious,
>                                                         Youngin'
>
                                              '53 Super 88
>
Just to let you know there are a couple of outfits making wide whiewalls for
the older cars in radials.  The whitewalls can be ordered in varying widths.
The company we got our from is:

Cornue Classic Corp.
2456 Vista Drive, PO Box 875
Lake Geneva, WI 53147
800-456-TYRE (8973)
414-249-1010
fax 414-249-1011

The other company we know of is Kroker (? spelling) and don't know where
they are.

We have had the wide whites on our '55 98 for just over 2 years now.  While
the ride of the radials is a real bonus over the bias plys, we are becoming
less happy with the white walls.  They are beginning to show small cracks
and fissures in the white rubber, and look like they may become diastrous
looking long before the life of the tire expires.  The first production of
these tires by Cornue were recalled as the glue used yellowed and showed
through the white rubber.  I think they are still going to have to work some
to perfect the process for the radials, whether due to the increased flexing
of the tires, or insufficient thickness of the white rubber, or whatever.

The price of these tires were not cheap -- almost $200 Can. per tire, but
they were in fact cheaper than the bias plys available here.

Hope this info is of some help.  Good luck.


Sherry Soball
B.C. Olds Club
email: soballs@douglas.bc.ca
>
>


- --

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 10:03:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Stripe Options (fwd)

Hi Paul,

> N37, which is what is on your data plate, is for the "standard" Delta 88
> Royale coupe.  Y37, which shows in the order books, but not on the data
> plate, is the code for a Delta 88 Royale Brougham coupe.  Even though the

I rechecked the plate and it is Y37, not N37.

> Brougham was ordered from the factory as an N37, the Brougham was
> considered to be an option on the Y37 standard body.  There are no
                                    ^^^ you mean N37 body right.

> separate production numbers of N37 Broughams.  There were 41,382 Delta 88
> Royale coupes built for '82.  This number includes Broughams.  This is
> confusing and I don't think I'm making it very clear.  I guess I
> understand it better because of working for an Olds dealer.

Thanks for the information.

Chris Sparks
68 442 (Still in driveway collecting dust)
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 12:27:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Junkyard find - '64 442

William; Is it pssible to check out this car? I can use some parts from it
at the very least.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com
- ----------
> From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Junkyard find - '64 442
> Date: Saturday, April 19, 1997 8:38 PM
>
> While visiting my mother-in-law in Southern Idaho, I dropped by an auto
> graveyard I found and there among the sagebrush and trees sat a 1964 442,
> 2dr. HT.  It sits as it did when its plates expired in 1974.
Twenty-three
> years of Idaho winters haven't done it any good, but it is straight and
> complete, including tach.  It is straight and the yard owner said he
> couldn't remember why it wasn't running, but that he thought the engine
was OK.
>
> What would such a critter be worth?
>
> Bill Goodnight
> idaholc@primenet.com
> Boise, Idaho
>

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 12:27:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac, 69 442

At 10:45 AM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Got my ralley pac installed the other day but need some electrical help.
>The dark green wire to the temperature sending unit and the blue dbl
>white striped wire to the oil pressure sending unit were cut by the
>previous owner when he installed the under dash gages.  Where I don't
>know.  Since the harness are wraped, I'm not sure what wires were
>clustered together when they enter the firewall (engine side).  Can
>someone tell me the routing of the temperature/oil pressure wires and in
>which branch of the harness they are located.  Are they routed over the
>LH valve cover or from the LH inner fender?
>
>By the way, I found out that installing the gages was a test of patience
>and dexterity.....something pretty hard for someone 6' 5" tall.
>
>Wayne Schwartz
>wschwart@IAW.on.ca
>
>
Boy am I glad that I'm only 6'4" tall, so when it comes to working under the
dash I can find it more accomodating.

Get a chart of the wire color codes.  Over the last several months, several
of the people on this list have offered to print the chart and sent it to
those in need, and look for the wire that way.  I think it's the only way
actually.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 12:34:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Custom Whitewalls and Tires

A Snip here and there...

>Just to let you know there are a couple of outfits making wide whiewalls for
>the older cars in radials.  The whitewalls can be ordered in varying widths.
>The company we got our from is:
>
>Cornue Classic Corp.
>2456 Vista Drive, PO Box 875
>Lake Geneva, WI 53147
>800-456-TYRE (8973)
>414-249-1010
>fax 414-249-1011
>
>The other company we know of is Kroker (? spelling) and don't know where
>they are.
>

If you mean Coker Tire, they are in Crossville, Tennessee, and advertise in
the back of every issue of "Hemmings."

Their numbers are: Ph:(423)265-6368
                  Fax:(423)756-5607
                  Net: http://www.coker.com

>Sherry Soball
>B.C. Olds Club
>email: soballs@douglas.bc.ca

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 12:41:04 -0300
Subject: Re: '78 Olds Delta 88, suspension tips

On Sun, 4 May 1997 mjones@gleep.com wrote:

> I've posted before, but I don't believe anybody recieved my message.  I
> own a '78 Olds Delta 88 2 door coupe (350R/TH350).  I know these cars
> are not very popular in the performance and handling dept. but I would
> like some info on suspension tips, mostly where I can get a hold of some
Yeah, but wouldn't one of those in high tune really make people look when
their stairing at your tail-lights.  I've always liked those cars, but
never seen one that went fast (it always amazes me how much more a 77-80
88 costs then a 75-76 of the same model)

>
> Also I have a few questions about the 400-425-455 big blocks, mostly
> I know one will bolt into my cavernous engine bay on the stock mounts,
> but what brackets should I go with if I do attempt this 'swap'?  The car
> is a California car (unfortunately :P) and has a smog pump and plenty of
> good...  Is it less expensive to go the 425 or the 455?
A 455, in my guess, would be you're best bet, since you could probably
buy a perfect running 74-76 Olds 88/98 fully loaded with working options
for scrap-metal price (I know that's what they sell for here).  I believe
most mounts either interchange or come with two holes for the higher 455.

Remember, winning a race is 800000% more fun when your car doesn't look
like it should win.

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.0.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 11:50:52 -0300
Subject: Re:Vacuum is better!

OL>Vacuum-regulated systems were the norm for GM for quite a while; even the
OL>door-locks were vacuum-operated. I am still impressed with how smooth the
OL>cruise-control on my '78 is; very gradual, completely unnoticeable. I've
OL>driven cars with computer-controlled cruise, and haven't noticed any
OL>superiority of that system.
OL>_______________________________________________________
OL>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
OL>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

My '89 GMC C1500 and my wife's '93 Grand am both have the computerized
cruise and they suck compared to vacuum systems. Mine goes 2-3 miles
slower than what I set it at and is jerky controlling the throttle.
Her's stays were you set it for about 5-10 minutes then speeds up about
1-3 mph. It is smoother than mine but is still noticeable. I will take
electric locks over vacuum. Remote starter/locks I installed on our
vehicles wont work with vacuum locks.


Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 13:54:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac, 69 442

C.R.F. wrote:
>
> At 10:45 AM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Got my ralley pac installed the other day but need some electrical help.
> >The dark green wire to the temperature sending unit and the blue dbl
> >white striped wire to the oil pressure sending unit were cut by the
> >previous owner when he installed the under dash gages.  Where I don't
> >know.  Since the harness are wraped, I'm not sure what wires were
> >clustered together when they enter the firewall (engine side).  Can
> >someone tell me the routing of the temperature/oil pressure wires and in
> >which branch of the harness they are located.  Are they routed over the
> >LH valve cover or from the LH inner fender?
> >
> >By the way, I found out that installing the gages was a test of patience
> >and dexterity.....something pretty hard for someone 6' 5" tall.
> >
> >Wayne Schwartz
> >wschwart@IAW.on.ca
> >
> >
> Boy am I glad that I'm only 6'4" tall, so when it comes to working under the
> dash I can find it more accomodating.
>
> Get a chart of the wire color codes.  Over the last several months, several
> of the people on this list have offered to print the chart and sent it to
> those in need, and look for the wire that way.  I think it's the only way
> actually.
>
> The Wiz


To The Wiz

Thanks for the advice.  Hopefully I can eventually get a chart but I'd
really like to get this job done within the next day or so.....so if
someone can answer the my questions, let me know.

Wayne Schwartz

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 13:00:36 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 98 conv.

Looked at the car yesterday. Bondo in fenders a lot in the quarters.
Seats are ripped contrary to what the owner said. Floors in front were
solid butt not for to much longer didn't look at back floors. I can
understand why the roof leaks there is no roof! Just the frame work.
am/fm/8 track, a/c, power trunk, seats, locks, windows, top, steering,
brakes light blue 12 bolt rear non-posie. More work than I'd be willing
to do at this time. I did think about using it as a parts car for my '65
Dynamic 88. Not sure yet. I'll offer him $100-150
He wants $600

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 14:20:39 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

At 03:01 AM 5/1/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I
>
>HI, I'm interested in the 68 Toronado Air Cleaner Pie Tin, also waiting on
>the Hurst Dual Gate shift lens. Any chance of having a descent set of
>grills for a 68 Toronado?
>If you can, Please e-mail me a list of parts for 68 Toronado and 70 Cutlass
>Supreme.
>
>Thanks,
> Daniel Hall
> cdhall@MCI2000.com
>68 Toronado
>70 Toronado
>70 Cutlass SX
>
>

Daniel

        I sold those grilles a year ago. What you saw on that list is what
I've got, plus a rear package tray, backglass, rear side windows, and one
front drum. That's it.
If you want the air cleaner pie tin send a check or moneyorder to:

Jim Chermack
1132 Chatmoss Drive
Virginia Beach, VA 23464

Shipping is $3.50

Jim

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 13:26:18 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 98 conv.

OL>>Wife said she doesn't want it if it's a big car. I told her it's only a
OL>>little bigger than the Dynamic.

OL>heh... Well, I suppose the '73-'76 98's with the energy-absorbing bumpers
OL>were technically a bit bigger (over 235", I believe), but c'mon, even *I*
OL>think this is stretching the truth a bit! (of course, I've tried to
convince OL>my wife, who also doesn't want to drive big cars [what's with
that, OL>anyway?], that a '68 Toro is a _small_ car, which it is, sorta, when
OL>compared to our '78 Electra (which is technically downsized). So I bill the
OL>Toro as compact, almost. I guess I'm the last one who should be throwing
OL>stones here... ;)

OL>_______________________________________________________
OL>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
OL>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Compared to my trucks length of 237" (C1500 ext. cab 8' bed) w.b.
155.5". It wouldn't be that big butt compared to her Grand am it's
huge.Her car isn't much longer than a 98 is wide(joking). I would guess
that it's about 5-8" longer than my '65 Dynamic 88. One good thing about
having a wife that doesn't like normal (big) size cars is that you will
always get to drive it.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 16:21:10 -0300
Subject: 70 olds vin

I am considering buying a 70 olds haven't been able to look at it.  Distance.
but they gave me the vinª  what can someone tell me about the car from the ª?

336870E189930

Thanks

Doug

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 17:52:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube (and AT Rocke

In a message dated 97-05-04 10:36:57 EDT, you write:

<< How did you get it put on a hat?  I went to the mall's embroidery shop
 last year and had a nice hat done w/ a "442" and underneath "Rocket
 Science" which came out okay but you could only pick from their standard
 fonts.  How did you get the custom work done? >>
i just made it into an iron on transfer and then just ironed it on a White
Hat

W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 18:01:31 -0300
Subject: Musclecars collectors cards

The mall I work at had a baseball card "sidewalk sale" thing going on this
weekend.  I'm not into collecting them but looked around for anything car
related and found a 1992 edition of Musclecars collector cards that
covers 1964-1974.  Out of the 100 card set, 8 Oldsmobiles are included.
Not a bad representation I think.  Here is what they included:

1964 Cutlass 442
1966 Cutlass 442
1968 442
1969 Cutlass W31
1969 Hurst 442
1970 Rallye 350
1971 442 W30
1972 Hurst/Olds

The cards are pretty cool.  They have a picture of the car on the front
and on the back give engine and tranny options and production ªs with 0-60
and 1/4 mile times with a brief description of the car. I got two complete
sets out of the box and enough leftovers of the Olds to put in a frame
all for only $13.
Probably be a cool "spirit" item for shows!

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: George Johnston <ab291@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 18:41:24 -0300
Subject: [none]

I have a friend who is in dire need of a drivers' side rear tail light
lens for a '67 Olds Vista Cruiser.  He will take both side if that is
the way you want to sell it.

He doesn't have inet so please respond to me at:

ab291@ccn.cs.dal.ca

Thanks!

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 19:55:48 -0300
Subject: Tranny flow question?

I'm busy hooking things back up on my car instead of working, and I'm
re-hooking my cooler lines. Mine are not a stock setup, they doin't even
go through the rad, but the hoses are designed such that it is important
which is the pressure side and which is the return side, so:
On a '75 T400, there are two cooler lines leaving the tranny, top and
bottom, which is pressure and which is return?

Links Update:
- -------------
I've looked at the other registries, and still I think a more
comprehensive, sorted list of various oldsmobiles of various years.  So
far I have 8, but am looking for more.  Right now the table is thrown
into my main page, but will end up as it's own file when it gets bigger.

Please support this project, those with pic's and/or editorials on any
year of olds!

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Midn Ronnie D Merrill <m984488@nadn.navy.mil>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 20:51:50 -0300
Subject: 4 barrel

I'm looking for a 4 barrel intake manifold for my '64 330 engine,
apparently that years port configuration was different from models a
couple of years later and I can't get an aftermarket manifold. Was there
an aluminum 330 engine in the '62 F85? If so, would the intake manifold
interchange with a '64 330? If not, does any one know where I could find a
4 barrel manifold?

Ron

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:02:52 -0300
Subject: Re:  425's

On Sun, 4 May 1997, James Thingwold wrote:

> In my Setting the Pace book, I noted that there is an optional higher HP
> 425 listed for '67 Delta & Delmont's - is there a reference to this on the
> Olds FAQ or does someone know how I might see if I have this 425 in my
Delta?

The engine you are referring to is the Starfire engine, which was still
available in '67.  It was optional on Ninety Eights as well.  The easiest
way to tell if you've got a Starfire is the Starfile label on the air
cleaner.  Dual exhaust is a good clue, too, as that was part of the
Starfire engine option.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:15:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Stripe Options (fwd)

On Sun, 4 May 1997, mrada wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>
> > N37, which is what is on your data plate, is for the "standard" Delta 88
> > Royale coupe.  Y37, which shows in the order books, but not on the data
> > plate, is the code for a Delta 88 Royale Brougham coupe.  Even though the
>
> I rechecked the plate and it is Y37, not N37.
>
> > Brougham was ordered from the factory as an N37, the Brougham was
> > considered to be an option on the Y37 standard body.  There are no
>                                     ^^^ you mean N37 body right.

Wow, I think I really screwed this up.  What I meant to say is that N37
was the "standard" coupe and Y37 is the Brougham.  Evidently your car is
correctly marked as a Y37.  The other car is question here was, I believe
an '81.  His was marked as and N even thought it was a Brougham, which
must have been considered an option instead of a seperate model.  Did I
make that clearer?  My head hurts...

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:21:22 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds vin

On Sun, 4 May 1997, Douglas J Harkema wrote:

> I am considering buying a 70 olds haven't been able to look at it.
Distance. > but they gave me the vinª  what can someone tell me about the car
from the ª? > > 336870E189930

Not much.  It's a Cutlass S Holiday coupe built in Linden, NJ.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:34:38 -0300
Subject: Re: alternator position on 455

At 09:24 AM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>OL>I haven't figured out exactlywhat I have yet, but my first problem is the
>alternator belt OL>broke on the drive home.  I replaced it and the other
(short)
>belt broke.  When I OL>opened the hood I saw the alternator belt (long) is
about
>to break again!  It look
>OL>like the belt is lined up correctly to me but now I'm confused.
>
>Make sure all of the bolts are on and tight on you brackets. You might
>also check to to if there is any bracket braces missing. Just the
>littlest bit of looseness in the brackets can cause a lot of belt
>problems. Experience speaks here!


Also, double check the routing of your alt belt.  I've seen them get run
under the power steering pump pulley's center hub.  They rub a nice circle
in that pulley, and are not very good for belt life.  Make sure the belt
doesn't contact the power steering pulley at all.


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:35:18 -0300
Subject: Electrical Systems Trouble Shooting

   Howdee Folks,
                          It may just be a quirk of my particular car, but i
was wondering if anybody else has come across this before.  My 67 Olds gen
light stays on almost all of the time --  I have never had any charging
problems, and i have replaced the alternator along with the voltage regulator
nothing changed -- the light eventually does go out after i have driven the
car for about a half hour to an hour.   Any suggestions as to what might be
causing this little quirk???   I know just the basics of automotive
electrical systems.

                             Thanks,

                                           J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:45:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Musclecars collectors cards

At 06:01 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
 Out of the 100 card set, 8 Oldsmobiles are included.
>Not a bad representation I think.  Here is what they included:
>
>1964 Cutlass 442
>1966 Cutlass 442
>1968 442
>1969 Cutlass W31
>1969 Hurst 442
>1970 Rallye 350
>1971 442 W30
>1972 Hurst/Olds


     Hmm....  got a scanner?  :)




             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 16:42:12 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 barrel

Midn Ronnie D Merrill wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a 4 barrel intake manifold for my '64 330 engine,
> apparently that years port configuration was different from models a
> couple of years later and I can't get an aftermarket manifold. Was there
> an aluminum 330 engine in the '62 F85? If so, would the intake manifold
> interchange with a '64 330? If not, does any one know where I could find a
> 4 barrel manifold?
>
> Ron

Ron,

I don't know where a manifold is right now, but I don't think that the
'62 aluminum one will help.  It is mounted on a 215 aluminum engine -
the same as '61 & '63.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 22:50:05 -0300
Subject: blockhugger headers, olds

I am curently helpeng a friend put a olds 350 in his 49 pickup,
manifolds and regular cutlass headers won't work.  I was wondering they
make a blockhugger type header like the chevy ones but for Olds. Or
manifolds that go straight down in the middle, not the back.  If anyone
knows were I could get a set and how much they are, please E-mail me.
Marty   http://hanthorn@inwave.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 22:56:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Systems Trouble Shooting

At 09:35 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>   Howdee Folks,
>                          It may just be a quirk of my particular car, but i
>was wondering if anybody else has come across this before.  My 67 Olds gen
>light stays on almost all of the time --  I have never had any charging
>problems, and i have replaced the alternator along with the voltage regulator
>nothing changed -- the light eventually does go out after i have driven the
>car for about a half hour to an hour.   Any suggestions as to what might be
>causing this little quirk???   I know just the basics of automotive
>electrical systems.
>
>                             Thanks,
>
>                                           J2RKT@aol.com
>

If the light glows instead of being fully lit it a diode in the alternator
thats causing it. I got two bad ones in a row before from my local parts
place. I go somewhere else now.

JIm Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:07:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Tranny flow question?

At 07:55 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm busy hooking things back up on my car instead of working, and I'm
>re-hooking my cooler lines. Mine are not a stock setup, they doin't even
>go through the rad, but the hoses are designed such that it is important
>which is the pressure side and which is the return side, so:
>On a '75 T400, there are two cooler lines leaving the tranny, top and
>bottom, which is pressure and which is return?
>

Eric

        The lines connect to the radiator the same as they come out of the
trans. The flow out of the trans comes from the bottom line and goes into
the lower radiator hook-up. The return from the radiator is the upper on.
Hope this helps.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Panman638@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:14:43 -0300
Subject: rear differential

Can somebody help me to understand the code ª's on the differential? I am
restoring  a 1972  4-4-2 and I want to know what kind of gears I have.










                                                                       Thanks
Jim Moore

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:13:27 -0300
Subject: Re: blockhugger headers, olds

At 10:50 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I am curently helpeng a friend put a olds 350 in his 49 pickup,
>manifolds and regular cutlass headers won't work.  I was wondering they
>make a blockhugger type header like the chevy ones but for Olds. Or
>manifolds that go straight down in the middle, not the back.  If anyone
>knows were I could get a set and how much they are, please E-mail me.
>Marty   http://hanthorn@inwave.com
>

Marty

        This is going to be difficult. There is a drivers side that dumps
down (69-70 88/98 with single exhaust), but as for a passenger side I don't
know of one. You could have a set of custom headers mad to hug the block as
a last resort.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:54:07 -0300
Subject: Re: rear differential

At 11:14 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can somebody help me to understand the code ª's on the differential? I am
>restoring  a 1972  4-4-2 and I want to know what kind of gears I have.
>
    If you put them up here on the list someone maybe able to help you out.

 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 18:50:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

Schaack Family wrote:
>
> I own a 1966 Olds Ninety-Eight Convertible.  I have found that many things
such > as the power windows, radio, fan blower, etc. still work when the key
is shut > off in the car.  I had the ignition switch checked and they said it
was working > fine.  When I asked one person about it, they said that's the
way it was suppose > to be because the key didn't shut things off (such as
power windows) till a > couple of years later.  I have just started working on
the car and don't have a > whole lot of knowledge about it yet, but that just
didn't seem right.  Could > there be anything else wrong besides the ignition
switch.  Also, is a 1966 Olds > '98 Convertible a rare car.  No matter how
hard I try I haven't been able to > find even a picture of another one.  Help
Please... > > One of the Schaack's

My '62 Jetfire had the power windows, electric seat, & electric antenna
on full time until I rewired it to the switch.  I guess that this was a
factory system, as they plugged into a hot position on the fuse block.

I have only one 1966 Olds 98 convertible picture.  I can send it to your
personal e-mail address if you need.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Mike Siedlik <mjsiedl@megavision.com>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:54:08 -0300
Subject: blockhugger

Marty
   Jim is right on! But get two Driver sides, since they go straight
down. I've found some in the past for Streetrodders. Good Hunting!

                                                        Mike

------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc.seflin.org>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 23:55:32 -0300
Subject: Olds "tech tips" (fwd)

Article for Olds Club Of Florida's "Classic Olds Journel" "Tech Tips "
Colum.  The Moral of this story "Carry a spare HEI control Module".


Dennis Jon Sytsma

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

or you can cc a copy to my full internet account at

sytsma@gzinc.com

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 22:42:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc>
To: robert-h frisch <rhfjr@aol.com>
Cc: Scott/Sara Panacek <scott_442@msn.com>
Subject: Olds "tech tips"


Here is my latest submission to Classic Olds Journel on repair of Classic
oldsmobile engines.

STANDARD DISCLAIMER: Death or injury can result when working on
automotive systems if the correct tools or safety precations are not
used. Proceed at your own risk!  I recommond attending a automotive class
at a Vo-Techincal School to learn these methods.



It finally happened! On the way to work, in a bad part of town, at night!
The engine stopped cold!  I knew what it was right away when my attempted
to restart resulted in only one or two random pops and backfires.  After
a tow to a safe location I checked to see if I had any spark by
installing a spark checker on plug ª1.  This tool is availabe from most
lawnmover repair or auto parts stores.  I had no spark at all.  I then
used a 12 Volt test light to verifiy that I had 12 volts to engergize the
High Energy Ignition (H.E.I.) distrubitor on the "BATT" terminal.  Once I
confimed that I had no spark and the needed 12 volts, I went to the local
parts house to buy a replacement H.E.I. Control module.

The Contorl module acts as a electrical switch for the ignition coil.  It
uses the magnetic pickup at the base of the distrubitor for the
electrical signals to know when to make the required spark.  The Contorl
module is the heart of the system.  When it fails, it fails hard.
Replacment takes about 30 minutes with the right tools, so If your car
has one of these I recommend you carry a spare.   I Paid $14.99 for the
DR100 control module, and $2.67 for the U517 condenser at Discount Auto.
The condenser is to reduce radio interferance, and I did not need to
change it, but I did anyway.

To remove and replace the module, Disconnect the battery negative cable
(just to be safe).  Remove the air cleaner and housing.  Remove the
"BATT" terminal by using a small screwdriver to release the latch, and
gently wiggle the terminal loose.  Do the same to release and remove the
tach connector.  Then release the catch's on the Spark Plug wire loom,
and gently pop loose the spark plug wires from the distrubtor cap one at
a time until the loom is loose.  Then use the small screwdriver to
release the 4 distributor cap catchs, should be a 1/4 turn
counterclockwise to release each latch.  Remove the distrubitor cap and
set it aside for now.

Use a small phillips screwdriver to remove the rotor by loosening the two
screws.  Set the rotor aside for now.  Remove the connectors from the
control module by gently but firmly wiggling the connectors on each end
of the control module.  The Contorl module is toward the rear of the
distrubtor where you would expect to find the points and condensor on a
conventional distributor.  Loosen the two screws that hold the contol
module captive with a small socket or nutdriver.  If you like, loosen the
single phillips screw holding the capicator down in the front, and wiggle
loose the terminal wire from the capicator.  You really do not need to
replace this capicator unless it is shorted to ground.  It can be checked
with a ohm meter to see if it is shorted.

Reassemble in reverse order.  The Control module has its own instructions
that are in much more detail.  Be sure to smere the back of the module
with heat sink grease that comes with the new module before you install
it. and do not over-tighten the screws!  If you break a wire on the
connectors, I told you to be gentle!

All else fails, replace the H.E.I. Distrubitor with a rebuild!, but that
is around $100.00, and more work than a simple repair.

Good luck!


Dennis Jon Sytsma

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

or you can cc a copy to my full internet account at

sytsma@gzinc.com

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:00:30 -0300
Subject: Re: blockhugger headers, olds

On Sun, 4 May 1997, hanthorn wrote:

> I am curently helpeng a friend put a olds 350 in his 49 pickup,
> manifolds and regular cutlass headers won't work.  I was wondering they
What year of manifolds, and where do they hit?  I know there is two
possible exits on the driver-side for different years of cars, the old
ones off my 69 88 exited farther ahead than my 75 98.   The manifolds did
still change between, though!

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:30:14 -0300
Subject: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.

I HAVE A 75 OLDS CUTLASS S W/350/4 BBL.CAR HAS LOW MILEAGE,RUNS SUPER EXCEPT
FOR A HESITATION AROUND 2000RPM...WILL RUN SMOOTH UP TO THIS POINT AND BEYOND
2500RPM.I HAVE REBUILT THE CARB,REPLACED CAP/ROTOR/WIRES/PLUGS AND CHECKED
FOR ANY VACUUM LEAKS AND CHECKED FOR ANY OBVIOUS PROBLEMS.TIMING HAS BEEN
SET,REPLACED FUEL FILTER,PVC VALVE AND CHECKED VACUUM ROUTING.DOES ANYONE
HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS/SOLUTIONS?
I HAD A 78 442 W/260/2BBL.WITH THE SAME PROBLEM BUT ENDED UP SELLING IT
W/PROBLEM UNRESOLVED.THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR ANY
ADVICE/TROUBLESHOOTING HELP.I HAVE WORKED ON A LOT OF THESE VEHICLES BEFORE
AND CAN USUALLY FIND PROBLEMS BUT NOT HAVING ANY LUCK W/THIS ONE...P/S....THE
WORK I'VE DONE ON THIS HAS IMPROVED PROBLEM A LOT BUT IS STILL
THERE....THANKS AGAIN...DJV442

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:39:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Musclecars collectors cards

On Sun, 4 May 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:

> At 06:01 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >
>  Out of the 100 card set, 8 Oldsmobiles are included.
> >Not a bad representation I think.  Here is what they included:
> >
> >1964 Cutlass 442
> >1966 Cutlass 442
> >1968 442
> >1969 Cutlass W31
> >1969 Hurst 442
> >1970 Rallye 350
> >1971 442 W30
> >1972 Hurst/Olds
>
>
>      Hmm....  got a scanner?  :)
>
Yeah, I was thinking about this.  I'm losing my account because of
graduation, but I just realized i could scan them in and send them to
Bryce when I send him the pics of my car.  He could probably post them
in the "multimedia" section.  The only thing is that the writing on the
back might be difficult to read. I'll try it out anyway.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:44:07 -0300
Subject: New England get together

I was just wondering if the meeting at Berejick's this Saturday was still
on.  I hadn't seen anything about it lately on the list.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:42:06 -0300
Subject: Re: rear differential

At 11:14 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can somebody help me to understand the code ª's on the differential? I am
>restoring  a 1972  4-4-2 and I want to know what kind of gears I have.
>
>Thanks
>Jim Moore
>

Jim

        Here are the codes that should be on the passenger side axle tube of
your rear end. These are for 1972 from the Factory Service Manual.

        Std Rear                Anti-Spin
3200-4200 Series (Exc. W-30)
2.73    SA                          SB
3.08    SC                          SD
3.23    SR                          SS

3200-4200 Series (With W-30)
3.42    --                            TM
3.73    --                            TO

Hope this is what your looking for.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:49:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 425's   (+ small V.C. reference)

At 01:26 AM 5/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>also involves suspension hop-ups). According to my shop manual, different
>tranny codes refer to 2bbl high compression, 4bbl high compression, 2bbl low
>compression, and another for the Jetstars. I cannot help but wonder if these
>are all TH400 variants as I can find no evidence of TH350 being offered in
>1965.

Those would all be different TH400's, as TH350's did not exist at that time.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 15:20:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Custom Whitewalls and Tires (non-olds)

>It occurs to me that in this day and age one should be able to buy a spray-on
>(ar similarly easy to apply) substance which applies to rubber and cures to
>become permanent or semi-permanent.

Isn't there a special additive that you can put in paint to allow it to flex
easily?  Used for flexible body-colored bumpers on late model cars?  Why not
add it to some flat white and paint a radial sidewall with it?  Just a
thought.  I don't know how crappy it would look but it might be presentable.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:14:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Saturday and the salvage lot :)

Charley - OK go ahead and keep the horn button.  But if you keep finding
these cars, I am going to never cease to plead until you cough one up
(grin).  I forgot your '67 didn't have one of these wheels - which are
remarkably similar to my '63 Nova SS wheel....hmmm, maybe I'll have to go
hunt one of THOSE up.  Anyway, I need the driver door mirror (I have the
mounting piece to the door & the piece that bolts on to that but the mirror
was broken off) not the rear view one.  And if the wheel well molding looks
salvageable & you aren't going to use it- I'll forward $.  Let me know.

And if you can check on the '67 Delta/Delmont part I'd appreciate also.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:22:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Systems Trouble Shooting

On Sun, 4 May 1997 21:35:18 -0300 J2RKT@aol.com writes:
>   Howdee Folks,
>                          It may just be a quirk of my particular car,
>but i
>was wondering if anybody else has come across this before.  My 67 Olds
>gen
>light stays on almost all of the time --  I have never had any
>charging
>problems, and i have replaced the alternator along with the voltage
>regulator
>nothing changed -- the light eventually does go out after i have
>driven the
>car for about a half hour to an hour.   Any suggestions as to what
>might be
>causing this little quirk???   I know just the basics of automotive
>electrical systems.
>
>                             Thanks,
>
>                                           J2RKT@aol.com
Knowing MY Cutlass the way I do, I would check my grounds for the light
and everything else involved. I've discovered that My Cutlass relies and
a good ground for almost everything to work properly.

Katana72
>

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:22:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 4 barrel

On Sun, 4 May 1997 20:51:50 -0300 Midn Ronnie D Merrill
<m984488@nadn.navy.mil> writes:
>
>I'm looking for a 4 barrel intake manifold for my '64 330 engine,
>apparently that years port configuration was different from models a
>couple of years later and I can't get an aftermarket manifold. Was
>there
>an aluminum 330 engine in the '62 F85? If so, would the intake
>manifold
>interchange with a '64 330? If not, does any one know where I could
>find a
>4 barrel manifold?
>
>Ron

I have a 65 330 motor in my 72 and am using a 4 bbl intake from a 350.
Works pretty well. As far as I've discovered, the only thing for a 350
motor that won't work with a 330 motor is the cam. It seems the boss
angle is different.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:22:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac, 69 442

On Sun, 4 May 1997 10:45:48 -0300 Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
writes:

>By the way, I found out that installing the gages was a test of
>patience
>and dexterity.....something pretty hard for someone 6' 5" tall.
>
>Wayne Schwartz
>wschwart@IAW.on.ca
>
Wait until you decide to change the front speaker!!!! If you think a
rallye pac is bad.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:26:37 -0300
Subject: Re:  425's

Snip:
  The easiest
>way to tell if you've got a Starfire is the Starfile label on the air
>cleaner.  Dual exhaust is a good clue, too, as that was part of the
>Starfire engine option.

I've got neither - just the Ultra High Compression label.  Still this thing
runs better then other similar 425's I've driven recently....makes me
wonder - WHY?



Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 02:03:41 -0300
Subject: Re: blockhugger headers, olds

At 11:13 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 10:50 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>I am curently helpeng a friend put a olds 350 in his 49 pickup,
>>manifolds and regular cutlass headers won't work.  I was wondering they
>>make a blockhugger type header like the chevy ones but for Olds. Or
>>manifolds that go straight down in the middle, not the back.  If anyone
>>knows were I could get a set and how much they are, please E-mail me.
>>Marty   http://hanthorn@inwave.com
>>
>
>Marty
>
>        This is going to be difficult. There is a drivers side that dumps
>down (69-70 88/98 with single exhaust), but as for a passenger side I don't
>know of one. You could have a set of custom headers mad to hug the block as
>a last resort.
>


Hey!  Here's a thought.  Take a set of Toro X-Mans.  Mount them upside down
& backwards (so exhaust dumps up and forward)  Leave the center bolt out
(use thick gaskets :) and run the pipes however you see fit from there!
(Remember the old 292 F*rds?  They had the exhaust crossover pipe coming up
over the water pump and meeting the other side there)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Richxqti@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 02:19:07 -0300
Subject: must specify subject

un-subscribe oldsmobile digest rich@qti.net

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 02:26:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

At 06:50 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Schaack Family wrote:
>>
>> I own a 1966 Olds Ninety-Eight Convertible.  I have found that many
things such
>> as the power windows, radio, fan blower, etc. still work when the key is
shut >> off in the car.  I had the ignition switch checked and they said it
was working >> fine.  When I asked one person about it, they said that's the
way it was suppose >> to be because the key didn't shut things off (such as
power windows) till a >> couple of years later.  I have just started working
on the car and don't have a >> whole lot of knowledge about it yet, but that
just didn't seem right.  Could >> there be anything else wrong besides the
ignition switch.  Also, is a 1966 Olds >> '98 Convertible a rare car.  No
matter how hard I try I haven't been able to >> find even a picture of another
one.  Help Please... >> >> One of the Schaack's

I've got pics of my '67 98 Convert on my web page, but can't say much for
the 66's.  While not necessarily rare, they sure are classy, anyway :)

Did you ever check out the regulator?  I sent one reply, but never saw any
answer on it, you may have missed it?  Unplug the voltage regulator and see
if the windows still work with the key off.

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 02:26:53 -0300
Subject: Re: New England get together

At 12:44 AM 5/5/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I was just wondering if the meeting at Berejick's this Saturday was still
>on.  I hadn't seen anything about it lately on the list.

Whoa!  I hadn't been following this thread closely at all, but it just
dawned on me why that name sounds familiar.  Check out this image, is there
any correlation?  I see the spelling's different, but that may not mean
much.  I pulled this out of my Olds in
Action (Vol.1)

http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/berejik.jpg

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "dayc" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 19:15:38 -0300
Subject: Re: rear differential

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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James do you have the figures for the 1970 axles?
Corey D
dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Cutlass S
 ----
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 3:51 AM
Subject: Re: rear differential

At 11:14 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can somebody help me to understand the code ª's on the differential? I =
am
>restoring  a 1972  4-4-2 and I want to know what kind of gears I have.
>
>Thanks
>Jim Moore
>

Jim

        Here are the codes that should be on the passenger side axle =
tube of
your rear end. These are for 1972 from the Factory Service Manual.

        Std Rear                Anti-Spin
3200-4200 Series (Exc. W-30)
2.73    SA                          SB
3.08    SC                          SD
3.23    SR                          SS

3200-4200 Series (With W-30)
3.42    --                            TM
3.73    --                            TO

Hope this is what your looking for.

Jim Chermack




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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<P>James do you have the figures for the 1970 axles?</P>

<P>Corey D

<P><A href=3D"mailto:dayc@ix.netcom.com">dayc@ix.netcom.com</A>

<P>1970 Cutlass S</P>
 ----<BR>
<B>From: </B>James &amp; Joanne Chermack &lt;chermac@exis.net&gt;<BR>
<B>To: </B>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR>
<B>Date: </B>Monday, May 05, 1997 3:51 AM<BR>
<B>Subject: </B>Re: rear differential<BR>
<BR>
<HTML><BODY><FONT size=3D2>At 11:14 PM 5/4/97 -0300, you wrote:<BR>
&gt;Can somebody help me to understand the code ª's on the differential? =
I=20
am<BR>
&gt;restoring&nbsp; a 1972&nbsp; 4-4-2 and I want to know what kind of =
gears I=20
have.<BR>
&gt;<BR>
&gt;Thanks<BR>
&gt;Jim Moore<BR>
&gt;<BR>
<BR>
Jim<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Here are the codes that =
should be on=20
the passenger side axle tube of<BR>
your rear end. These are for 1972 from the Factory Service Manual.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Std=20
Rear&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Anti-Spin<BR>
3200-4200 Series (Exc. W-30)<BR>
2.73&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
SA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;=20
SB<BR>
3.08&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
SC&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;=20
SD<BR>
3.23&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
SR&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;=20
SS<BR>
<BR>
3200-4200 Series (With W-30)<BR>
3.42&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
- --&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
TM<BR>
3.73&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
- --&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
TO<BR>
<BR>
Hope this is what your looking for.<BR>
<BR>
Jim Chermack<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></FONT>
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª647
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