To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #600


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 8 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 600

FS 1978 Delta 88 Center Caps for SSII style wheels
Re: 1950 OLDS
Re: 8.5" Rear end again
Re: Wow whatta car
Re: (no subject)
Re: I feel less young...
Re: Fw: 8.5" rear end for G-bodies
Re[2]: PS Brackets (was: Springs 'n' things)
Re: car info
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
Re: '75 Omega
Re[2]: The Holy Order of Rocketeers
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
engine performance
Re: Your help with my 442.
Re: PS Brackets (was: Springs 'n' things)
Re: 8.5" Rear end again
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers
BOP meeting
price for Toro oil pan
[Fwd: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours]
1964 CONVERTIBLE TOP FRAME
New Aquisition!!!
Re: G-body Exhaust Systems
Re: BOP meeting
Hood hinge help...
Re. '50 Olds - Jose Trejo
Rocker Questions
bulk
Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible
Re: Re[2]: The Holy Order of Rocketeers
Re: Rocker Questions
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Re[2]: TCC solenoid
Re: Fusible Links
Re[2]: '75 omega
Hood Hinge Help
Message-Id: <97Apr8.170054edt.39682@gateway.equitable.ca>
Re: Rocker Questions
Re: 75 Omega
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?
Re: Parts Catalog Information
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?
'82 GM A-Car parts for sale...
Re: convertible pump location
Quad 4 W-41 Owners out there?
Re[3]: '75 omega
Re: Rocker Questions
Re: Funny stuff
Re: Dick Miller Racing!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "JOHN L. BERENYI" <berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:46:18 -0300
Subject: FS 1978 Delta 88 Center Caps for SSII style wheels

These center caps are huge and in great shape.  They fit on the SSII
style wheels.  I have four only and will sell for $15 plus shipping.



John Berenyi (berenyi@texas.dseg.ti.com)

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:34:13 -0300
Subject: Re: 1950 OLDS

>      Date:  04/07/1997  10:59 am  (Monday)
>      From:  Jose Trejo
>        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
>   Subject:  1950 OLDS
>
>I DELETED THE ADRESS OF THE PERSON WHO KNEW
>OF A 1950 OLDS 88 FOR SALE, THE PRICE WAS $700,
>COULD YOU PLEASE MAIL ME AND GIVE ME ANY
>DETAILS YOU HAVE. THANKS!!!!
>
>If you get the address and details please post


>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:23:11 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" Rear end again

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> Steven LaCrosse wrote:
> >
> > Jason Labay wrote:
>
>         <snip>
> > >
> > > Wow! WAY too much, at least for me. We will sell complete rear ends with
> > > brakes for ~$100 with no core charge. I don't have an 8.5 rear though. I
am > > > looking for one myself. > > > - - - - - - - - - - - > > > Jason Labay
(z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95 > > > 93 Camaro Z/28:
Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1, > > > Fram HP4 oil filter,
TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.) > > > 80 Oldsmobile
4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made > > > 75 Hurst/Olds
W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made > > > > Dear Sir, I am
looking for a 3:23 rearend for my 1969 442. Can you help > > me?   Steve
LaCrosse  (716) 396-0803 work phone > > I am in need of something similar in
a posi-traction type.  My 3.91 is a > killer. > > Bill Culp > Decatur,
Alabama

Bill, I thought my 3:73 was bad!!

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:56:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Wow whatta car

Hi all,

Yesterday I saw a beautiful car.  I saw a late 60's? Starfire.  Never
saw one before, definitely caught my eye.  Had the nice big rear tail
lights with the olds logo on them.  It was a white two door coupe.
Yowsa!  The people must of thought I was strange staring at them (not
them the car).  Definitely a beauty.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:59:38 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

OL>Not likely directly, as the HEI is less power consumptive than the points
OL>set up was.

OL>Change to a new model alternator w/solid state regulator, either internal
or OL>external; on this list the greatest play has been for the internal type,
OL>which would require an appropiate alternator.

OL>The Wiz


The hei uses more energy than points (high energy = more power
consumption).I switched a '72 442 I use to have to hei it made a very
noticeable improvement over points.You need to make sure that your coil
power lead is supplying a least 12 volts otherwise you'll over work the
coil and ruin it, also make sure it's a heavy enough gauge wire to
handle the extra voltage going through it.


Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:05:56 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

OL>Karl Aune
OL>1965 Dynamic 88
OL>Chicago, IL


It's nice to finally see somebody else out there has a '65 Dynamic 88
especialy the same color as mine! Mine is currently in pieces. Hopefully
I will get it back together enough to start driving it this year and get
it painted next year.

Daren

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:15:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Fw: 8.5" rear end for G-bodies

>
> Gil,
>
> The 8PZ code sounds like it could be the code for the left rear spring.
> Although I could not verify it 100% by the PZ in the chassis manual.
> They used a 6, 7, 8, 9 coding system with two letters following the
> number. 6= left front, 7= rt ft., 8= lt. rr., and 9= rt.rr.  So the PZ
> is actually the code for your left rear spring.  Check to see if the
> other numbers exist.  ie 6HH, 7QZ, etc.  They probably have a different
> code for each spring, so they might not all match.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Mike Rothe
>
>


Speaking of spring codes, does anybody know or have a listing of
what they really mean, the letters that is, or how much stiffness
is the spring rated for by the letters...

Peter L. House
phouse@feith.com
'87 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:14:09 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: PS Brackets (was: Springs 'n' things)

The Wiz writes:

You can take all the brackets off a 350 and use them on a 455, as a set.  In
practice they you cannot mix and match, and as long as you intend to use the
same accessories no problem.

          Actually, for a given year (64-67 and 68-72) the dealer
          parts book actually lists the same part number for 350 and
          455 applications for both the alternator and PS brackets (I
          didn't check the A/C bracket) - note that this is for RWD
          applications; Toros are different.  Just make sure you have
          the correct water pump (dimension from mounting surface to
          pulley flange is different between A/C and non-A/C
          applications).

I remember having a problem with a/c pump clearance under the HOOD on one
engine change, but I attribute that to using the 350 motor mounts with a BB.

          Could this have also been due to using early (64-67)
          brackets on a later application?  The early brackets are
          different.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30




------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:08:13 -0300
Subject: Re: car info

>In as much as you brought up the 'Rockettes,' I have a piece of Ropckette
>trivia.  Do you know where they performed before they went to Radio City?
>Or does anyone else?

St. Louis, circa 1925 or 1930...

Uh, and I'm sure at least one of them had an Oldsmobile...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:25:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

Is a car stereo powerful enough to run a set of the small Bose speakers? If
it is you could make a bracket to hold the rear speakers above the boot. A
bracket shaped like an up-side-down "L" made from tube stock would position
the speakers above the top when it was down and rotate out of the way when
the top was moving. The sub-woofer could mount under the rear seat or in the
trunk.

Ray
34467x

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:16:23 -0300
Subject: Re: '75 Omega

>Hi ! I am new to this list. My first car was a '78 cutlass sup. Crashed 10
>years ago now I have chance to buy a '75 omega belong to an old lady.
>Any suggessions and things to look for ? engine size ? v6 or v8 ?

It's a corporate twin to the Chevy Nova, Pontiac Ventura and Buick Apollo,
as far as parts hunting is concerned. Might the 6-cylinder base engine be
an in-line? A friend had one in his '74 Nova, FWIW. (Had good luck with it,
too; not a screamer, but a reliable engine.)

Another thing no one's mentioned so far is the rear axle problem where
a centering or locating pin of some sort (I'm typing this from memory)
could rust through, and allow the rear axle to shift on its mounts where
it's supposed to attach to the rear leaf springs. The net result is the
entire car "crabs" down the road at a slight angle. Test drive the car
through a puddle in a straight line, then see if the rear wheel tracks
are centered over the front ones. (If not, I don't think it's a really
expensive repair.)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:22:19 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: The Holy Order of Rocketeers


<neat creative writing snipped>

I hate to be a wet blanket, but T.H.O.R. sounds an awful lot like the
Elysian fields of Hall's (ah Camelot!)... and we all know what happened to
them!  :(

          Actually, I thought it was a clever tie-in to the old THOR
          ballistic missile of the 50s.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:35:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
>     Well, the Rockit developed a new little quirk recently (actually, I
> think it just recently got worse...)  I have excess crankcase pressures.  I
> get a strong supply of smoke coming from the oil fill tube, and the PCV
> breather, and from the PCV grommet when I pull the valve out.  On cold
> mornings when I fire 'er up, the smoke is so thick I can see it coming
> through the AC vents inside!  I haven't done a compression test, but the
> spark plugs are staying remarkably clean.  I'm not burning any oil to speak
> of.  Blow-by was my first suspicion, but I have almost completely ruled that
> out, due to the spark plugs.  I feel pretty safe in assuming I've already
> figured out the cause, but I'll let our fellow list-techs take a stab at it
> before I give my thoughts.  Any takers?  (BTW, the most reward I can give is
> an "attaboy" or "attagirl," cuz I don't have a supply of really cool oil
> pump drive rods (or even rubber stamps) that I can spare :(
>
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>              500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>              Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>
>                      Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
>                        .     .    . .
>                    .        .    .  .
>               ___     .    .    . .    ___
>               `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
>                 `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
>                   `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
>                     __-\_/\--__/_-
>                . . /     \/      \  . . .
>              .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
>                   .\_____/\______/   .
>                 .        |ªª|.^.
>               .          |ªª||  .
>                          |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
>                         / / ||:..
>                        | | /  |
>                        | ' |  |
>                       / \_/   |
>                     _-        |


Charley, I will take a stab at it.  You are probably experiencing an
intake gasket leak into the lifter valley from the crossover area.
Either due to a crack in the intake manifold or the gasket failing.
Either that or the unlikey event of extremely wide clearances in your
exhaust valve guides.  How did I do?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:44:14 -0300
Subject: engine performance

> If you are reading this text, then your mail reader does not support
> the MIME (Multipurpose Internet Mail Extensions) standard.  To take
> full advantage of the features of this message, you need to upgrade
> your mailer to a MIME V1.0 compliant package.  Some parts of this
> message may be in human readable form.

- --zzzz241b1f22884d87qconline.comzzzz
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A week ago somebody wanted to know what effect lowering the compression
ratio on their motor would have on the power output. I knew there was
some place on the 'net you can get this info but couldn't remember
where. Well it finally came to me Drag strip plus. You enter the specs.
for your engine and car it will tell you the horse power it will make
and how quick it should be in the 1/4 mile and what you should do to
make it quicker.
I haven't had much luck with putting go to buttons in e-mail so I
attached it. Go to revolutionary concepts web site (rconcepts.com) on
the left side of the screen under featured sites you can either down
load the demo at Drag strip plus or order it from Martel brothers
racing. This is a great program if you plan on building a motor and want
to find out what works best for your application. Somebody I work with
has Desk top dyno and from what he's told me about it, it's more
technical with your inputs and doesn't tell you as much.This is a much
better program!


Daren


- --zzzz241b1f22884d87qconline.comzzzz
Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="revolu~1.url"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="revolu~1.url"

[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.rconcepts.com/

- --zzzz241b1f22884d87qconline.comzzzz--

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:48:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Your help with my 442.

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> At 10:54 PM 4/7/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >>P.S. If it is the fusable link, how difficult is it to repair.
> >>
> >The fusable like is a inline fuze.  They are a snap to change out.  Buy
one, > >and put it in a go.  You can check the circuit by jumpering across the
link, > > Most fusable links I've seen are not regular fuses that you can
change out, > but rather thin wires encapsulated in a heavy rubber insulator.
When the > circuit overloads, that wire burns out and breaks the circuit. The
rubber > insulator may bubble from the heat, but it can also remain intact and
look > like new. Repair usually involve cutting out the old fusable link and >
soldering a new one in place. There should be two on your car coming off the >
"+" terminal of the starter (the two smaller wires there); they'll probably >
be wrapped up with tape, and you have to drop the starter to get at them in >
the first place. A major pain. >
_______________________________________________________ > Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu > Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918

Bob,Thanks,for all your help! Well I have gone from a total engine
rebuild to a good tuneup. ha ha. This guy, my friend thought I had the
original 442 engine. So did I.
It turns out the engine came from a 72 Delta 88 (455cid). So I called my
friend after speaking to the guy I bought it from and there was no
reason this thing should not run perfect.
I do think I need to stay with high octain fuel. What do you think? I
will be in the office tomorrow morning if you have the time give me a
call. Thanks.  Steve LaCrosse  (716) 396-0803 work.

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:46:54 -0300
Subject: Re: PS Brackets (was: Springs 'n' things)

JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com wrote:
>
> The Wiz writes:
>
> You can take all the brackets off a 350 and use them on a 455, as a set.  In
> practice they you cannot mix and match, and as long as you intend to use the
> same accessories no problem.
>
>           Actually, for a given year (64-67 and 68-72) the dealer
>           parts book actually lists the same part number for 350 and
>           455 applications for both the alternator and PS brackets (I
>           didn't check the A/C bracket) - note that this is for RWD
>           applications; Toros are different.  Just make sure you have
>           the correct water pump (dimension from mounting surface to
>           pulley flange is different between A/C and non-A/C
>           applications).
>
> I remember having a problem with a/c pump clearance under the HOOD on one
> engine change, but I attribute that to using the 350 motor mounts with a BB.
>
>           Could this have also been due to using early (64-67)
>           brackets on a later application?  The early brackets are
>           different.
>
>           Joe Padavano
>           jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
>
>           66 442
>           68 W-30
>           69 H/O
>           70 W-30
>
>
>
I have to agree with Joe.  Since all the A/C stuff bolts mostly to the
heads, and the dimensions are the same, then the A/C brackets should be
the same.  True, the water pump lengths are different, so you would have
to be careful here.  The P/S brackets bolt to the side of the block and
to the timing cover area, and again, that area being the same dimensions
for big and little Olds V-8s, it should work (save for using the other
hole on the side bracket that bolts to the head).  The only REAL
difference between the exterior configuration of both the 350 and the
455 is the deck height.  Which means the 455 is a little wider (hence
longer A/C and Alt. belts) and a tad taller.  You could think of a 455
as being a 350 on steroids!  And it is!

My $.02

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 06:01:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 8.5" Rear end again

Jason Labay wrote:
>
> At 05:25 PM 4/7/97 -0300, Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> >
> >I am in need of something similar in a posi-traction type.  My 3.91 is a
> >killer.
>
> Bill, we never get those good rears. Most of the cars we get are mid 80's
> Cutlass, 88 and 98's. Anything older than a 75 happens maybe once every two
> months. 72 and older cars are extremely rare for us to have.
> - - - - - - - - - - -
> Jason Labay


Jason,

I'm shocked.  I just felt that hundreds upon thousands of 442's, H/O's,
& 98 Starfire's were driven in regularly.  It is strange the myths that
are heard here in the South Land.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

BTW, I have been annointed as the one to secure Oldsmobiles for a parade
in conjunction w/out car show on 24 May.  I already  have a nice '66
Starfire, beautiful '73 442, a low mileage '55 Super 88, '62 Starfire,
'41 98 sedan, as well as my Oldsmobiles for this thing in a couple of
hours this morning.

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:10:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

Other than the normal problems that can cause blow-by, I was wondering if
any body has seen this.......
A friend came to me with a simular problem. He said that a local garage
told him that the engine needed rebuilt. The truck had low miles on it, so
I decided to test a few things. Compression was good. Guides seemed to be
good. So I changed the PCV and things  picked up a bit.Thought that the
intake was sucking oil, but turned out that it wasn't. Well, I asked him
where he was filling up.I told him to run the one tank completely dry of
fuel , then fill up some where else.It worked, The engine cleaned right up.
Turned out that the fuel tank had a lot of diesel in it from the tanker
truck that was filling the service station .The engine is still running
clean 7 years later.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 06:07:01 -0300
Subject: Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers

C.R.F. wrote:
> >
>
> Are their amateur theologians?

I consider myself an amateur theologian.  That keeps me out of court as
professionals can be sued easily.
>
> The Wiz Really Wonders
>
> P.S. Did I ever relate the time a computer, at college, sent me to a church
> administration class instead of American History.  Well...

Wiz,

Is it churches that are in trouble or is it history that we are
lamenting?  Do all the graduate GED school operate this way?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:14:03 -0300
Subject: BOP meeting

I was just curious if anyone attended the BOP swap meet this last Sunday in
Wheaton Il.  I was there around noon and literally ran through the hall in
about 45 mins.  I did pick up some literature and was in heaven seeing all the
Olds parts and misc. laying around.  I have never been to a auto swap meet
before so I was easily impressed.  Wished I had more time - and lots more
money!  If anyone else was there, I was wondering if this was typical for
a swap meet.

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Convert

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:54:00 -0300
Subject: price for Toro oil pan

I have a nice '69 Toro oil pan that I will be taking to Carlisle.  I
would like some advice on a fair asking price for the pan and the
windage tray/studs. Email me direct please.
r_mullen@merck.com
Scott M.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 06:13:08 -0300
Subject: [Fwd: Returned mail: warning: cannot send message for 4 hours]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I must have something wrong w/this address.  I'll post it here for Jose.

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The original message was received at Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:33:17 -0700
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(CDT) Message-ID: <33494A97.29D0@hiwaay.net> Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 19:27:19
+0000 From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net> Reply-To: bculp@hiwaay.net X-Mailer:
Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: JoseTrejo@pactel.com Subject:
Re: 1950 OLDS References: <34952460.1242@pactel.com> Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO wrote:
>
>       Date:  04/07/1997  10:59 am  (Monday)
>       From:  Jose Trejo
>         To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
>    Subject:  1950 OLDS
>
> I DELETED THE ADRESS OF THE PERSON WHO KNEW
> OF A 1950 OLDS 88 FOR SALE, THE PRICE WAS $700,
> COULD YOU PLEASE MAIL ME AND GIVE ME ANY
> DETAILS YOU HAVE. THANKS!!!!

Jose,

The owner is Rhett Stafford in Cullman, AL.  His phone ª is
205/734-8791.  He told me that the car is an 88 2-door (coupe?) that has
a rebuilt engine bored so that the 303 is now a 371.  The body is fair
w/some roof damage from a storm.  He intended to restore it & a '53(?)
88 coupe.  The '53 has no drive train.  He wanted $700 for the '50.  I
could look at the cars next week if you are interested.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

- --WAA21450.860477637/sf-ptg-ss.pactel.com--



- --------------62D76AC5826--

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:31:00 -0300
Subject: 1964 CONVERTIBLE TOP FRAME

      Date:  04/08/1997  08:31 am  (Tuesday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  1964 CONVERTIBLE TOP FRAME

CAN SOMEONE TELL ME IF THE CONVERTIBLE TOP
FRAME FOR A 1967 CUTLASS CAN BE USED IN PLACE
OF THE FRAME FOR A 1964 CUTLASS????  THANKS
FOR ANY HELP!!!!

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:36:17 -0300
Subject: New Aquisition!!!

        Its non-Olds, but I think some of you "heavy metal" folks out there
     will appreciate it.

        I just picked up a 1973 Imperial LeBaron.  MINT, MINT, MINT! 28K
     original miles.  4-dr HT, 440 4bbl, auto, power everything, including
     vent windows, leather interior, vinyl top...a true ª2.5 car.  A 5000lb
     19+ft long behemoth.  My '82 98 was known as the USS Nimitz, but this
     baby will be known as the USS Enterprise!

        So I'm "sailing" this beast home (with my nephew following in my '82
     98....see, there's a Olds tie-in here), enjoying the ride when the
     right rear tire decides to go to pieces.  Total delamination of the
     belts.  Fine.  I've got a spare (original).  Jack up the car, remove
     the fender skirt and take whats left of the tire off.

        Then I try to put the spare on.  Nope.  Won't fit.  Too wide to get
     in between the hub and the body.  Damn.  Lets see...the front tire
     seems a bit narrower.  Ok, so we drop the car on the wheel we took
     off, jack up the front, remove that tire, put the spare up there and
     proceed to jack up the rear again.

        Keep in mind, we're on a high-crown highway.  The whole car is
     balenced precariously....so much so that one of us is holding the car
     from falling over.

        We jack up the rear again and try to put on the former front tire.
     No go.  Same problem.  Seems the shock is holding the suspension up.
     Well, it just so happens the lug wrench fit the lower shock nut.
     Great!  Remove the nut from the lower shock, lower the car on the old
     wheel to compress the suspension a bit, and remove the shock from its
     lower mount.

        Jack it up again...lo and behold....the tire slips right in there.
     Tighten everything up and we're on our way....just "floating" home.

        It seems that the shocks are not the right size, unless this situation

     is normal.  Time to do some research and find out.




     Peter G. Teubel

     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98 (50% complete....currently a driveway ornament)
     '52 Plymouth (Project-in-waiting....driveway ornament ª2)
     '73 Imperial (known as USS Enterprise)
     '82 98 (known as the USS Nimitz)
     '84 C10 P-up (junkyard hauler)
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)
     '88 Subaru Turbo (Distainful communter vehicle that actually gets out
                       of its own way)




______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: 1950 OLDS Author:
idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight) at imail Date:    4/8/97 10:34 AM


>      Date:  04/07/1997  10:59 am  (Monday)
>      From:  Jose Trejo
>        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
>   Subject:  1950 OLDS
>
>I DELETED THE ADRESS OF THE PERSON WHO KNEW
>OF A 1950 OLDS 88 FOR SALE, THE PRICE WAS $700,
>COULD YOU PLEASE MAIL ME AND GIVE ME ANY
>DETAILS YOU HAVE. THANKS!!!!
>
>If you get the address and details please post


>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho



------------------------------

From: Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:16:27 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body Exhaust Systems

On Mon, 7 Apr 1997, Gilbert Russell wrote:

> NAPA part numbers for the 84 H/O exhaust is as follows:
>
> 45211Tail pipe$22.62
> 45222Tail pipe$22.62
> 22623Muffler$50.46 ea.   (expensive little buggers)
>
Are the mufflers for the 84 H/O high performance mufflers and are these
mufflers the same size as the ones on the 85-87 442's with dual exhaust?

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442Plates [1987 W42]

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:21:48 -0300
Subject: Re: BOP meeting

  Rick,


  I got to the BOP meet at about the same time. I picked up a set of chasis
and body assembly and service manuals for $35 for my '65 442.  I also got a
Fisher Body manual for my uncle's '66 GTO.  There was some nice stuff to be
had.  I just wish I had gotten there earlier.  Don't forget the
Wisconsin-Illinois state line meet this summer.



 Paul

------------------------------

From: ShadowFox <l-steinke@tamu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:32:12 -0300
Subject: Hood hinge help...

Greetings fellow Olds lovers :)
  I recently aquired my brothers 66' Delta 88 (for free no less <grin>).
The biggest problem right now is before we can start working on the
engine we need to fix the passanger side hood hinge which just broke. I
need suggestions for a replacement hinge that would work(as 66 year olds
don't grow on trees around these parts), or to temporarily rig the hinge
so we can properly close (and open) the hood. Please respond directly to
my email address (l-steinke@tamu.edu) as I am not *yet* on the
oldsmobile list. Thank you for your responses :)

::tail fluffs::
Laura
aka ShadowFox

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:41:19 -0300
Subject: Re. '50 Olds - Jose Trejo

This bounced, dunno why, but here it is...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
I must have something wrong w/this address.  I'll post it here for Jose.

TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO wrote:
> I DELETED THE ADRESS OF THE PERSON WHO KNEW
> OF A 1950 OLDS 88 FOR SALE, THE PRICE WAS $700,
> COULD YOU PLEASE MAIL ME AND GIVE ME ANY
> DETAILS YOU HAVE. THANKS!!!!

Jose,

The owner is Rhett Stafford in Cullman, AL.  His phone ª is
205/734-8791.  He told me that the car is an 88 2-door (coupe?) that has
a rebuilt engine bored so that the 303 is now a 371.  The body is fair
w/some roof damage from a storm.  He intended to restore it & a '53(?)
88 coupe.  The '53 has no drive train.  He wanted $700 for the '50.  I
could look at the cars next week if you are interested.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:50:35 -0300
Subject: Rocker Questions

Hey everybody, I've got a ticking valvetrain in my 455.  After reading several
of the posts here and talking with others I'm convinced the problem is
worn/broke rockers or pivots.  So I figure I mightaswell replace the existing
stock rockers and pivots with a fully adjustable roller rocker system.
The catalogs from Mondello and Dick Miller Racing are informative but I think
their stuff is a little expensive and leave some unanswered questions:

1.  Do the roller rockers require a set of screw in studs, or are there stock
studs already there I can attach to?
2.  The Mondello and DMR kits include pushrods.  If the existing pushrods are
fine, does it make sense to go ahead and replace them, kinda like a
mightaswell?
3.  The kits also include guideplates.  Do I need these too?  This is a street
engine, rarely sees 5000RPM, only occassional blasts racing a rice burner so
its not like I need a bulletproof engine for weekly drags.
4.  Also, many of the screw in studs offered are 7/16, which I think is
greater than stock?  Is 7/16 really necessary?
5.  Lastly, any comments about the Harland Sharp quality?  Will they require
extra think rocker cover gaskets to clear the oil baffles under the covers?.

Todd
71 442

------------------------------

From: GDJR14E@prodigy.com (MS CINDY L NICK)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:45:26 -0300
Subject: bulk

can you please help me to get off this list?

------------------------------

From: Dawn Roode <dawnr@curtco.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 10:06:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Speaker Locations in Convertible

jeff antonucci wrote:
>
> The rear speaker in my '70 is mounted above the pump and points at the
> rear window.  It would probably work OK with the top up, but is covered
> completely when the top in down.
>
> Remember they are 10 ohm speakers.
>
> Jeff.
>
>         '91 Quad 442 W-41
>         '70 442 Conv.

Speaking of the pump on the convertible top -- where exactly is this
located??  The top on my 68 Cutlass has not been opening/closing
smoothly of late, and I was told to check the fluid in the pump...but I
don't know where that is (call me stupid...!)

Thanks,
Dawn
dawnr@curtco.com

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:00:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: The Holy Order of Rocketeers

> <neat creative writing snipped>
>
> I hate to be a wet blanket, but T.H.O.R. sounds an awful lot like the
> Elysian fields of Hall's (ah Camelot!)... and we all know what happened to
> them!  :(
>
>           Actually, I thought it was a clever tie-in to the old THOR
>           ballistic missile of the 50s.
>
>           Joe Padavano
>           jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

Thor is the nickname, given by the other Gods of Automobiles, to the God
of Oldsmobile, Thor-onado.  When you see one of their group photos,
he's the one who brandishes a Cutlass.  Looks mighty supreme, too.



Tim (Putting the 'Pun' Back in 'Pundit'... or is that 'P.U.'?) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:09:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> Hey everybody, I've got a ticking valvetrain in my 455.  After reading
several > of the posts here and talking with others I'm convinced the problem
is > worn/broke rockers or pivots.  So I figure I mightaswell replace the
existing > stock rockers and pivots with a fully adjustable roller rocker
system. > The catalogs from Mondello and Dick Miller Racing are informative
but I think > their stuff is a little expensive and leave some unanswered
questions: > > 1.  Do the roller rockers require a set of screw in studs, or
are there stock > studs already there I can attach to? > 2.  The Mondello and
DMR kits include pushrods.  If the existing pushrods are > fine, does it make
sense to go ahead and replace them, kinda like a > mightaswell? > 3.  The kits
also include guideplates.  Do I need these too?  This is a street > engine,
rarely sees 5000RPM, only occassional blasts racing a rice burner so > its not
like I need a bulletproof engine for weekly drags. > 4.  Also, many of the
screw in studs offered are 7/16, which I think is > greater than stock?  Is
7/16 really necessary? > 5.  Lastly, any comments about the Harland Sharp
quality?  Will they require > extra think rocker cover gaskets to clear the
oil baffles under the covers?. > > Todd > 71 442


Todd, save your money and call Summit Racing and ask for the Competition
Cams roller-tip rocker set for your engine.  You get pushrods (necessary
for the stock ones are too short.  And since the new rockers will flop
around a lot, guide plates are pretty much necessary.) the rockers,
studs, guideplates and hardware all in one kit.  I can't remember the
part numbers off-hand, but I bought a set, and they are fully
adjustable.  Great addition for the money.  You do NOT need aluminum
roller rockers on the street, no matter what anybody has told you.
While it's true the roller bearings reduce temperature, friction, blah,
blah, blah...., you are looking for dependable and street performance.
The stock ones must have worked well, that's why Olds didn't change it.
It's your money.  But that's my $.02 worth.

Good luck.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:20:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

In a message dated 97-04-08 09:26:27 EDT, you write:

<< Other note, keep in mind that Olds used at least two styles here, the
 bi*ch-buzzer, and the chime module.  I think they both looked the same,
 although one had a 200% higher probability of being thrown out the window!
 (Quite likely achieved by using the f*rd authorized procedure mentioned
 earlier!) >>

Speaking of annoying buzzers (actually, this wasn't really a buzzer).  My
parents bought an early 80's Cadillac, and it's chime for the turn signal
played "Love me Tender" by Elvis.  It was a real trip.  I'm not sure who had
the car before us (but it would have been interesting to see what they look
like..... <grin>)  Of course, it immediately went out the window.  Thinking
back, it's kinda humerous.....   ughhh...   how can I be thinking such a
thing <shudder...>

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:41:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

Chris Ruper reminisces:

> Speaking of annoying buzzers (actually, this wasn't really a buzzer).  My
> parents bought an early 80's Cadillac, and it's chime for the turn signal
> played "Love me Tender" by Elvis.  It was a real trip.  I'm not sure who had
> the car before us (but it would have been interesting to see what they look
> like..... <grin>)  Of course, it immediately went out the window.  Thinking
> back, it's kinda humerous.....   ughhh...   how can I be thinking such a
> thing <shudder...>

Gee, other folks claim to see him working in a local 7-11; your folks' Caddy
was *haunted* by Him!

"...the King is Dead, but he's not forgotten...." :) :) :)

Seriously, I wonder what comapny supplied *that* after-market item?

In the same vein, a buddy of mine had one of those mid 80's Chr*sl*r products,
perhaps a Le Baron, that talked to you as well.  One time we were driving
along, and he asks, out of the blue, "When is a door not a door?"

He (or rather, his car) answered the question when he opened the driver's door
which resulted in our hearing, "A door is ajar."

I dunno, it was awfully funny at the time.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 07:36:10 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: TCC solenoid

     Steve, is the solenoid easily accessible?  i.e. am I able to remove it
     with ordinary hand tools once I get the pan dropped?  Or do you need a
     special tool or need to remove the valve body, torque converter, or
     whole tranny?  Any gotchas I should be aware of?  Does $43.99 from the
     GM dealer sound like an okay price?  Napa, etc. don't carry them.

     Thanks in advance.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

     P.S.  Fellow list members, my apologies.  I'd take this to private
     e-mail but my mailer (cc:Mail) doesn't show the originators address,
     so unless they put it in their signature I can't reply.

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: TCC solenoid Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/7/97 5:20 PM


Tom,
        That solonoid is the only problem I have seen on the 200-R4 trans. I
work on cadillacs for a living and have seen this many times on the 200's and
my 85 Delta also had this problem. The solonoid is easy to change and is not
expensive. For the money i would to this first.
                                                     Steve


------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 07:36:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Fusible Links

     As part of my toolkit which I always carry on long trips, I have a
     length of fusible link wire to which I have attached alligator clips.
     It's never happened to me, but I know other people who have been
     stranded by broken fusible links.  I found a big spool of the fusible
     link wire at my dads, and thought it might be a good idea.  It's also
     very handy for jumping, testing, and rewiring of electrical components
     (it takes a pretty heavy load to blow that link, more than a radio,
     headlights, HEI, etc. normally pulls).

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Charging Problem.  Bat won't
hold charge Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/7/97
8:17 PM

     Most fusable links I've seen are not regular fuses that you can change
     out, but rather thin wires encapsulated in a heavy rubber insulator.
     When the circuit overloads, that wire burns out and breaks the
     circuit. The rubber

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 07:36:33 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: '75 omega

     Having personally gone from a '76 N*va with the 250 I6 to a '79
     Cutlass with the 260 V8, I'd call it a fairly close match.  The 250
     might have been just a tad quicker, especially off the line (the
     lighter car probably helped too).  There are nearly *no* performance
     items for the 250, while you can somewhat upgrade the 260 or do a
     direct swap to a 350 or 403.  However the 250 was nearly
     indestructible.  *7* main bearings and a gear-driven camshaft on a
     dinky 105hp engine.

     Personally I have my eye out for a Starfire of that era.  I think it'd
     make a good unique second car.  I saw one for sale a while back for
     $500, in good shape, but it was sold before I could call them.  You
     think the Omegas are hard to find. . .

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: '75 omega Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/7/97 8:32 PM

Oops; the *later* cars come with these engine options (the SX I looked at
had the V-6; would that have been a '77?). If the car is equipped with the
250ci (Ch*vy!) I-6 , it's have to be in pretty spectacular condition to be
something I'd consider. The performance of that motor is, uh, _less_ than
inspiring.


------------------------------

From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@wpo-smtp-gate.tamu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:53:48 -0300
Subject: Hood Hinge Help

 Greetings fellow Olds lovers :)

First I would like to apologize if this gets sent twice....  I recently
aquired my brothers 66' Delta 88 (for free no less <grin>).  The biggest
problem right now is before we can start working on the engine we need to fix
the passanger side hood hinge which just broke. I need suggestions for a
replacement hinge that would work(as 66 year olds don't grow on trees around
these parts), or to temporarily rig the hinge so we can properly close (and
open) the hood. Please respond directly to my email address
(l-steinke@tamu.edu) as I am not *yet* on the oldsmobile list. Thank you for
your responses :)

::tail fluffs::
Laura
aka ShadowFox

------------------------------

From: gcooke@equitable.ca
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:56:56 -0300
Subject: Message-Id: <97Apr8.170054edt.39682@gateway.equitable.ca>

1) Anybody know of any classic oldsmobile clubs in Kitchener, Ontario Canada
area?  I'm buying a '61 F-85 this weekend.
2) Anybody else know how to unsubscribe to this newsgroup?  I used my work
address, and am getting way too much e-mail (though all very good stuff).

Regards,

Glenn, Kitchener, Ontario, Canada (BRRRRRR!)

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 15:51:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

Todd asks:

1.  Do the roller rockers require a set of screw in studs, or are there stock
studs already there I can attach to?

      You will need studs.  The stock rocker assemblies use bolts.

2.  The Mondello and DMR kits include pushrods.  If the existing pushrods are
fine, does it make sense to go ahead and replace them, kinda like a
mightaswell?

      Depends on the geometry of the rocker kit.  If the rocker geometry is
      changed, you will need different length pushrods.  Check to see if
      the ones recommended in the kit are a different length than the
      stockers you have.

3.  The kits also include guideplates.  Do I need these too?  This is a street
 engine, rarely sees 5000RPM, only occasional blasts racing a rice burner so
its not like I need a bulletproof engine for weekly drags.

      Yes, you will need guide plates.  The function of the guide plate is
      to prevent the rocker from rotating around the stud and thus falling
      off of the valve tip.  In the stock configuration, the rockers
      actually ride on trunnions (think of a mini rocker shaft) which are
      tied together by the strap or the one-piece cast rocker pivot
      (depending on which you have).  This obviously prevents the rocker
      from rotating side-to-side.  Most adjustable rocker designs will
      allow the rocker to pivot side-to-side about the adjusting stud.
      While there are a number of ways to prevent this (F*rd, for example,
      uses "rails" on either side of the end of the rocker which fit over
      the valve tip), the guide plates work well and are easy to install.
      The guide plate prevents side-to-side motion of the pushrod, which,
      since it fits into a cup on the rocker, also prevents the rocker from
      rotating side-to-side.

4.  Also, many of the screw in studs offered are 7/16, which I think is
greater than stock?  Is 7/16 really necessary?

      While the greater strength of the 7/16 stud is desirable, I think
      there are stepped studs (3/8 on the head side and 7/16 on the rocker
      side) which eliminate the need to machine the head for the larger
      studs.

5.  Lastly, any comments about the Harland Sharp quality?  Will they require
extra think rocker cover gaskets to clear the oil baffles under the covers?.

      I haven't actually used the H-S rockers, but their reputation is
      outstanding.  The hardware is extremely well made.  I hope to use a
      set on my 455 in the near future.

      Some additional info:  I'm assuming that most of the adjustable
      rockers you've looked at are the traditional roller rockers with a
      small roller at the valve tip and a large barrel roller for rocker
      pivot.  Competition Cams also markets a "hybrid" adjustable rocker
      which uses a small roller at the valve tip and a Ch*vy-type pivot ball
      for the rocker pivot.  While obviously not as heavy-duty as a true
      roller rocker, this ball pivot design is somewhat less expensive.
      You'll still need to use the guide plates, however.

      Joe Padavano
      jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

      66 442
      68 W-30
      69 H/O
      70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 07:09:40 -0300
Subject: Re: 75 Omega

> From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
> Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:37:17 -0300
> Subject: Re: '75 omega
>
> At 03:59 PM 4/7/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Lynn wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ! I am new to this list. My first car was a '78 cutlass sup. Crashed
10 > >> years ago now I have chance to buy a '75 omega belong to an old lady. >
>> Any suggessions and things to look for ? engine size ? v6 or v8 ? > >>
thanks > >> > >> Lynn > > > >Lynn, > > > >Those are rather good cars.  They
are related to the Camaro & Firebird. > > They are?  I thought the Omega was
a corporate twin of the Chevy Nova, > Buick Apollo, and Pontiac Ventura.  I
owned a '75 Nova, and while it had > four wheels and it really was a Chevy,
there wasn't much else about it that > reminded me of a Camaro.  :) > > >
Some info about the '75 Omega: > > The standard engine in both the Omega and
the upscale Omega Salon was a 250 > CID inline 6.  Optional was either a 260
V-8 with a 2-bbl carb or a 350 V-8 > with a 4-bbl.  No V-6 was available.  The
standard-equipment transmission > was 3-speed manual, and optional was the
Turbo-Hydramatic three speed > automatic.  Body styles available included a
coupe, hatchback, and sedan. > > > Dan


According to my 1976 Olds service manual the Omega got the chª$y 350,
and not the Rocket.  The only Rocket in 76 in the Omega was the 260.
Bummer.  The mounts are there, why didn't the factory put in the good
motor?

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

From: Nascarnut5@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 15:44:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?

Jeff,

I haven't got any W-41 owners to respond yet,  although I've bummped into 2
of them by accident, when I was reading the E-mail.

I really like the Quad 4.  Mine has 190hp.  Per motor trend: 14.7 qtr mile,
and 7.0 sec 0-60.  I'm sure of the 0-60 times, I can do that or maybe better.
 There are a lot of newer V-8's that I can beat.  The 1991 (Same year) Z28 is
one of them.  But w/o modification the car is damn fast.

Mine is bullet proof, well designed.  I drive it mostly to & from work.
 Since it was new in 1991, (Apr) I've put about 46,000 miles on it.

What do you drive?

Steve

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:46:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts Catalog Information

I've gotten absolutely NO information from anybody yet...  I've come to
the conclusion that, while, if given a frame, front fenders, and a roof,
between Brother's, Fusicks's, Paddock, and Year One, you could MAKE a 1970
442 W-30 from scratch, but just find me ONE part for a G body...  They are
even getting hard to find here in the junkyards locally where they used to
be a "dime a dozen"!  The G-bodies are entering that horrible "in-between"
phase in which they are too old for Oldsmobile to give a rat about them,
but too new for mail order companies to consider a "classic".

I'm forwarding this to the list too, Jason...
I ask again... would anybody with any knowledge of mail-order companies
that offer G-body Cutlass parts, particularly interior and exterior trim
parts, please give us this information.  Thanks for any help...

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu


On Mon, 7 Apr 1997, Jason Adcock wrote:

> Could you forward any information you recieve about the 80's parts
> catalogs?  Thanks.
>
> I'd Re: your post, but the welcome message says no "me too" posts...
>
> Thanks again.
>
> --
>
> +------------------------------------------------+
>
>  Jason Adcock
>  OCA ª028044
>  adcockjk@erols.com
>
>  1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
>  73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
>  http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
>  Also viewable through http://www.442.com
>
> +------------------------------------------------+
>

------------------------------

From: Nascarnut5@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 15:53:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?

What year is your W-40?  Were there more than 1 year?

I have to admit, I'm very partial to GM's, especially the Olds.  My favorites
are just about every Cutlass, and 442.  Well let me say ALL Cutlass and
442's.  I don't like the Acheiva, just don't like the way it looks.
 Otherwise no other reason.

Low - Mid 1970's are my favorites next to my car (of course :-)) ).   I just
wish the older cars had things like mine, like anti-lock brakes, veri-effort
steering, and fuel injection.  And all of the little things that are cool on
newer cars.  Mostly electronic updates and features like tape holders.  No
AIR BAGS in my car, thank God.  My anti-locks and good driving, help keep me
away from accidents, and such.  (Let's hope)

I also wish my car had things the older cars had:  Better seats, RWD, and
better interior hardware in general.

Gotta go for now...

Steve

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:06:26 -0300
Subject: '82 GM A-Car parts for sale...

Hey guys!
I'm not sure how many of you remember me talking about the '82 Buick I was
fixing to sell (to further the work on my Olds, of course!).  It had a bad
head gasket, that I fixed, but after I fired it up I found it also came
equiped with a cracked block.  :(  I could put a junk yard short block in
it and try to sell it, but I'm out of money, and the bills are due so I'm
just going to sell it to the junkyard and eat my losses on it.  If there
is anything anybody needs, let me know and I'll sell it really cheap.  The
only thing missing/bad (other than the block) is the header pannel.  The
carb has a fresh rebuild with about 10 minutes of run time on it, etc.
It's got cruise, and AC.  Oh, and does anybody know if the front lower
door hinge will interchange with an '83 f-body?  Anyway, most of the
(mechanical) stuff will interchange with any GM A body from '82 through at
least '85, maybe later.  Brake parts (calipers, rotors, etc) will probibly
also be available.  Let me know if you need anything....

The weather has turned nasty again so it's going to be a little
while before I can do anything to my Olds, but hopefully it will start to
look more like spring and I'll have a chance to work on it again!!

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:08:24 -0300
Subject: Re: convertible pump location

Hi Dawn,

At 10:06 AM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Speaking of the pump on the convertible top -- where exactly is this
>located??  The top on my 68 Cutlass has not been opening/closing
>smoothly of late, and I was told to check the fluid in the pump...but I
>don't know where that is (call me stupid...!)

It's directly behind the rear seat back support and is accessible from the
trunk (when the top is up!).

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:26:39 -0300
Subject: Quad 4 W-41 Owners out there?

Steve

they may filter their messages to Quad 4's or something so i changed the
subject.
i drive a 88 calais LO quad 5 sp. mine pretty fast for a LO i ran 15.2's
last year and hoping for better times this summer! mine is stock except for
the muffler, and cat- removed. i can provide you with several places if you
ever want to build it up some. my car is a approaching 180K miles and still
runs like a champ! about a week ago there was alot of discussion about the
future worth of your car...some say yay some nay...but i would keep that
thing forever! i've included a site that has some info for adding a little
power to a quad 4.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4601/index3.html

Jeff

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:30:03 -0300
Subject: Re[3]: '75 omega

...There are nearly *no* performance items for the 250...

          Sorry, I beg to differ.  There are probably _more_
          performance items available for the 250 I6 (it _is_, after
          all, a Ch*vy motor) than the Olds V8 (of any displacement).
          Try starting with Clifford (6=8) Engineering.

          Also cool, and somewhat related, is the overhead cam version
          of this motor produced by Pontiac (even available with an
          optional Q-jet 4bbl!).

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:39:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

In a message dated 97-04-08 14:21:12 EDT, you write:

<< Do the roller rockers require a set of screw in studs, or are there stock
 studs already there I can attach to?
 2.  The Mondello and DMR kits include pushrods.  If the existing pushrods
are
 fine, does it make sense to go ahead and replace them, kinda like a
 mightaswell?
 3.  The kits also include guideplates.  Do I need these too?  This is a
street
 engine, rarely sees 5000RPM, only occassional blasts racing a rice burner so
 its not like I need a bulletproof engine for weekly drags.
 4.  Also, many of the screw in studs offered are 7/16, which I think is
 greater than stock?  Is 7/16 really necessary?
 5.  Lastly, any comments about the Harland Sharp quality?  Will they require
 extra think rocker cover gaskets to clear the oil baffles under the covers?.

 Todd >>
Only direct bolt on rockers are the Mondello /Harland Sharp 7200's that use a
5/16th socket head cap screw.  All other rockers need a 7/16 hole, so the
heads have to be drilled and tapped to a bigger size.  The 7200 series
rockers do not use guide plates and are very easily adjustable.  As for
pushrods, yes go ahead and buy a new set because the tops of the old ones
could be worn out or just a ton of crud in the old oil holes in the pushrod.


W Machines (MarkPrince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:48:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Funny stuff

Today on the way to work a fellow in a 5.0 M*st*ng challenged me.  I
of course was driving my L*nc*ln TC.  Obviously no match for the
mustang.  Lets put another 3000 lbs on his back and see how fast he
goes.  Hmmmmm?

Oh well, I guess I am missing my 442.  She would have ripped his
bumpers off.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:10:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Dick Miller Racing!

>
> Could someone with a Dick Miller Racing catalog tell me the
> price of the Quad 4 unground camshafts if it lists a price for
> them!
>
> thanks
> Jeff
>
>

Part number LUN-RL-230 (I guess it's a Lunanti), 230/230 Dur@0.50,
.430L/.430 gross lift, custom ground to your specs for lobe centers.

All on page 35.   Price: $139.19

phone number- 517-782-2012

Hope that helps!

Greg
gzimmerm@runet.edu

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