To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #603


oldsmobile-digest         Thursday, 10 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 603

Re: (no subject)
Re: a lot of blown engines
Re[2]: love me tender.....
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: I feel less young...
Re: (no subject)
RE: a lot of blown engines
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever
Re: diff for W-41
Re: 73 442 stuff.....
Re: Ram Air Hood
junkyards (fwd)
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Re: (no subject)
ADMIN: How to Leave Us
moulding clips
Re: junkyards (fwd)
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever
headers, gaskets and such...
Re[2]: a lot of blown engines
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: headers, gaskets and such...
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: moulding clips
Re: Rocker Questions
Re: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: junkyards (fwd)
12-bolt rear in a g-body
1988 Cutlass Owners manual for sale
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: Eastwood Nyalic Clear
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: moulding clips
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
Re: heads for sale (update)(update)
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever
Re: Sleeper? (was: Re[4]: Bodies)
Re: 64 F85 Deluxe
Re: heads for sale (update)(update)
12-bolt rear in a g-body
Re: heads for sale (update)(update)
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming one?
Re: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
Re: Olds 307
Re: (no subject)
Rocker questions
Re[4]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
Re: Rocker questions
Re: Rocker questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:00:09 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

>.  Funny thing that Miss Fortran (my teacher) said that if you
> OL>double the voltage, that the amperage falls by 50% and that you can
use
> OL>SUBSTANTIALLY smaller wire with the increased voltages...  ie, voltage
goes
> OL>up, wire size goes down; everything else remaining the same.
> OL>Did she lie to me?
>
> OL>After all, if I get my GED I'll be promoted to 2nd assistant fry cook
at my
> OL>job at McDonalds, and a new name badge from Ronald himself.
I am not a electrican but I remember  that all the 6 volt cars had big
wires compared to 12v. I changed a few over and was told by the old timer
that the higher the voltage the smaller the wire size need to be with the
same load. He said it was like a water hose, to get x number of gallons per
hr out of it you could use a big hose with les pressure ( 6 V) or a smaller
hose with more pressure (12 V). The HEI has a big wire because it pulls
quite a few amps.


------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:04:51 -0300
Subject: Re: a lot of blown engines

>
> From: Michael Baugher on 04/09/97 11:22 AM
>
>      Treat your engine with a little respect!  It's an
>      Oldsmobile, but it's not indestructible!
>
My 350 went at 4900 rpms, I hardly think thats excessive.  It was there
for around 10-15 seconds.

- -greg
....in search of a bigger and better big block...

gzimmerm@runet.edu

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:06:49 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: love me tender.....

     Its a signal flasher module that plays a tune (i.e. Love Me Tender)
     when your turn signals are on.  Replaces that "click,click" sound.


     Peter G. Teubel

     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98 (50% complete....currently a driveway ornament)
     '52 Plymouth (Project-in-waiting....driveway ornament ª2)
     '73 Imperial (Coming soon...known as USS Enterprise)
     '82 98 (Also known as the USS Nimitz)
     '84 C10 P-up (junkyard hauler)
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)
     '88 Subaru Turbo (Distainful communter vehicle that actually gets out
                       of its own way)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: love me tender..... Author:
James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu> at imail Date:    4/9/97 2:29
PM


Sorry to take up space, and, maybe I shouldn't ask but...
What's a "love me tender" signal flasher?

Just curious!!!


       Jim Townsend

On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:

> Andy- Whitney *does* carry that 'love me tender' turn signal flasher.
> I saw it in my catalog and they want $8.99 for that tasteless piece of
trash. > > > > > > > >
============================================================================= >
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan.. >
K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver) >         65 El Camino..327/300,
black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car) >         95 Plymouth Neon
sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car) >         95 Dodge Ram 2500hd
4x4..v-10..(company truck) >
============================================================================= >
 >



------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:17:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

At 11:12 AM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>On Tue, 8 Apr 1997 evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
>
>> >Actually, before you decide that the block is a newly-created paperweight,
 >> check the freeze plug located under that driver side exhaust manifold.
>> They're designed to pop out under freeze conditions and absorb the >>
expansion, rather than cracking said block.  Good luck! >> >> >> Mike Evans
>> Richland, MI >> evans1@net-link.net >> >You mean this actually happens, of
all the 3 blocks I've seen bust (1 >chev, 2 ford) the plug came out, and the
block cracked!  I may still be >in bussiness,  Thanx.. I'll check > > >

The 'freeze plug' might save a casting if it is forced out of its seat and
the coolant is still slush.  If it's coming close to being solid, the little
that will seep out will not save the casting.  Remember that the volume  of
coolant inside the water jacket increases by about 15%, and you are not
going to get that thru the core holes as a part of a solid mass of water!!!

The castings break.

The Wiz

P.S. Don't discard the casting without looking.  If the temp. didn't get so
low that the coolant became that expanded solid mass it MIGHT still be good.
Look first, scrap later.

------------------------------

From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 02:19:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

I guess my best buy I made was my 70 Toro GT.  I traded a '79 Z-28 for it
even up.  A young punk kid had it, and he came into the salvage yard I was
working at looking for parts for his buddy.  I expressed interest in the
car....and he told me that he got it from his grandfather as a first car.
The car had 58,000 miles on it and was totally original and unmolested.
Grandpa bought it new.

This camaro I had was driven into the junk yard because it had a weak motor
and wouldn't pass the new emission laws because it had headers and no cat
converter.  I paid 400 bucks for the Z-28 and less than a week later I was
in my Toro GT because this kid thought that a Z-28 would be the coolest car
any 16 year old could possibly have!  I think I rescued that Toro from a
life of abuse!

Worse loss..... About 8 years ago I had to sell my 69 W-30 4-speed car, my
70 W-30 4-speed car, my 71 Cutlass SX convert, my 70 Rallye 350 and my 70
442 daily driver because of a financial situation that my wife got us into.
You know those vows....for better or worse.................

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-spd
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:23:12 -0300
Subject: Re: I feel less young...

On Tue, 8 Apr 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:

>
> >
> >Out of my entire fleet of cars (I'd have to count to know how many I
> >actually have....most run :) I only have two that are younger than me a
> >'78 blazer and a '89 cutlass supreme, the most vintage is a f*rd '29 model
> >A truck  45 years older than I  and the only ford I would not trade for a
> >6-pack
>
>      ***of Oly***

even as strong as my dislike for f*rds is I would rather drink most brands
of motor oil before I hit my stomach with Oly


> I've taught him well, eh?  His fleet still doesn't outnumber mine, but the
> competion's definately there :)

exactly how many are you up to chuck?
I'm at.....um....well including parts cars...not including non-benificial
junkers.....11 and always lookn' for more

> Duster... About that bumper.  What shape is it in? How about chrome strips
> in the cover?  Cracks, etc?  Could still use a driver's side 1/4 extension
> panel (the piece beside the taillight)  I need the bumper shocks, as well.
> Check's already written out (almost...  Honest ;)  It's good, too!)
>
I have 4-5 to choose from and 2 good covers, one is green (wrong shade of
course)  and the other is blue but is very faded so might not be way off,
I think the chrome stips on both are in decent shape

A good check from Charley Buehner???!!!



later
     Dustin

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:29:07 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Snips...

>If I understand what you and Miss Fortran is  saying right. Then the msd
>8 box should operate on only 2 volts since it has 6 times the amps the
>msd 5 has or should the msd 5 use 72 volts?
>
>I could be wrong, so does any body else have an opinion?
>
>
>Daren
>
>
>
Now you are changing the rules.  The first post suggested a bigger wire for
an increase in voltage, now you are increasing amperage.  And here Miss
Fortran and I agree, more amps (at the same voltage) bigger wire, with the
converse being more voltage (at the same amps) smaller wire.

The Wiz

P.S. The electrical system of the automobile of the much later part of the
20th century works at 12 volts (in actuality about 14v, but they seem to
consider it 12, I suppose because the battery is 12v), so when you consider
the watts that are being consumed at 12v, the watts vary with the amps, and
the volts remain unchanged.  And the ampere is where the consumption comes
from, not the volts.  Because the the detail in the entire part of your
response (that was above) I believe you have, in fact, a fairly good handle
on the question.

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:33:11 -0300
Subject: RE: a lot of blown engines

>My 350 went at 4900 rpms, I hardly think thats excessive.  It was there =

>for around 10-15 seconds.

>-greg
>....in search of a bigger and better big block...

>gzimmerm@runet.edu


I agree. A 350 should be able to turn 5 grand all day long without any =
ill effects. Just look at what kind of torture 455 Marine engines hold =
up to. While I concur that they should be treated with some degree of =
respect, I also feel they should be driven the way Oldsmobile intended =
them to be driven.

Jim Rabideau
rabid@cybrzn.com
70 W30
70 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:34:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

At 11:57 AM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 10:18 AM 4/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>>This weekend (wether permiting of course) I am planing to strip my uncle's
>>>old 1980 Custom Cruiser.
>>[...]
>>>I have an 81' Delta 88 4-door.  What I am particularly interested in is
>>>getting his PW and if possible PD.
>
>Hmmm, after reading all the suggestions, something occurred to me; couldn't
>you just swap the entire set of doors, and have them painted to match your
>car? That'd kill a whole *flock* of birds...
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>
>
Bob,

An interesting thought.  But it would not help with the biggest pain in the
conversion, the power window wiring sub-harness.

This poster was also considering changing over to the power door locks,
which would be much easier at the change of the doors, until you get to its
sub-harness.

And then hanging and squaring up the doors is a major project alone.

I think it would be better to change the small parts.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:52:45 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever

At 05:42 PM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Daren@qconline.com wrote:
>>
>> The Wiz wrote:
>
>> > Funny thing that Miss Fortran (my teacher) said that if you double
>> > the voltage, that the amperage falls by 50% and that you can use
>> > SUBSTANTIALLY smaller wire with the increased voltages...  ie,
>> > voltage goes up, wire size goes down; everything else remaining the
>> > same.
>>
>> If I understand what you and Miss Fortran is  saying right. Then the
>> msd 8 box should operate on only 2 volts since it has 6 times the amps
>> the msd 5 has or should the msd 5 use 72 volts?
>>
>> I could be wrong, so does any body else have an opinion?
>
>Bzzzt!  Over simplifications alert!
>
>Ohm's Law does have an opinion on this.  Current is equal to the voltage
>divided by the resistance: I = E/R.  If you double the voltage and
>*everything*else*stayed*the*same*, the current would also double.  As in
>2I = 2E/I.
>

Actually this can't happen.  If everything else stayed the same, that means
the load is the same, and the amps must fall by 1/2.  If the amps stayed the
same, then the load would double.  We sort of have an electrical double talk
here don't we.  And the original post said that the wire size must be
increased because of increased voltage, if you think that is the case then
YOU better keep your day job!

>I think what was being refered to was not current but work <<(of course)>>,
measured in
>watts <<(watts dat man)>>.  It is calculated as power = current times
voltage or P = I x E.
>If you doubled the voltage but cut the current in half, you would still
>be able to produce the same abount of work: P = .5I x 2E.  Referring back
>to the earlier discussion of 110v vs 220 VAC, a device operating on the
>higher voltage will be able to do the same amount of WORK at a lower
>current (and smaller wire) than a device operating on the lower voltage.
>
>The larger current draw of the MSD8 is no doubt due to a higher output
>and more complicated (and less efficient) electronics.

I believe I have a good idea of what was being said, mis-said, and actually
was meant here.  I have a lot of fun with this list, because I'm interested
in learning about the new things on cars since I retired in 1987.  So I
ain't got no day job man.  Sorry...  I have a lot more fun playing than I
ever did working, and I always liked my job.  I couldn't wait to get up in
the morning to go to work and see what disasters were going to fall upon us.

It also allows me a lot of time to work on my GED.

>Don't quit the day job, Wiz!   ;)


>    66 Toro
>The /\   /\ and Mike
>
>
>--
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
>

For Tim (The Punster) Churchill:  If you wish to electron, musn't you go to
the pole and volt?

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:50:00 -0300
Subject: Re: diff for W-41

Tom- yes, GM Perf. parts does have a LSD for the Calais 5 speeds. The part ª
is 22551487. They also have equal length half shafts for it too..
Looking thru the catalog, there is a whole lotts Quad 4 stuff.






=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:47:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 73 442 stuff.....

Drw- you might want to try Jim Osborn reproductions for the 73 442 books,
stickers, etc. Their ª is (404) 962-7556.
They seem to have a lot of stuff for it when I look thru their catalog.






=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 16:17:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

What about the air cleaner?  I've been told the air cleaner dosen't clear
the hood.  Can I use O.A.I. set up?

********
I'm not sure - haven't tried

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

********

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 16:03:28 -0300
Subject: junkyards (fwd)

I think this one went only to me so I'm forwarding...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:28:25 -0300
From: Guillermo Santucci <San2cci@msn.com>
To: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: junkyards

Hi all,

Just finished cruising some of the local jyards and found some things someone
may need.

70 cutlass supreme:  4 brl carb 350 w/buckets and power windows very rough but
 some good parts still on it

68 98:  bigblock w/c heads perfect grill interior in good shape metal panels
good skirts gone

66 caddy cdv:  excellent condition bumpers and chrome all there and in great
cond.  low mile orig car skirts are almost perfect and both there

If anything here sounds appealing e-mail me at San2cci@msn.com.  I can get it
for you for what it costs + shipping.

Gil

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 06:16:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

Well my `67 is the only car i've ever bought, so that'd have to be my "best"
buy.  The Vista Cruiser was resurrected 5 years after my mom quit driving
it.  The Cutlass cost me $200 and I paid a flatbed truck $55 to haul it
about 30 miles to the house.  I'll let everyone decide for theirselves
whether this was a "good" buy or not if I ever get some pics scanned and
posted.  I'm quite happy with it.  I tell my parents that it's not a basket
case, it's a blank canvas.  :)

One of the best buys I've ever head of was by a guy I knew in high school.
He bought a `72 f*rd LTD for $75.  The previous owner had just put in a new
battery and tanked it up with gas before selling it.  So we figure all he
really paid for was a tank of gas and a battery and the f*rd was just thrown
in.  :)  So he ran the sh*t out of the LTD for the next 12 mos or so and
more or less brutally tortured it, since he figured it was just an old car.
He finally threw a rod while racing it.  The junk man hauled off the carcass
and paid him $25 for it.  I think he kept the battery.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 16:08:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

On Tue, 8 Apr 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> Chris Ruper reminisces:
>
> > Speaking of annoying buzzers (actually, this wasn't really a buzzer).  My
> > parents bought an early 80's Cadillac, and it's chime for the turn signal
> > played "Love me Tender" by Elvis.  It was a real trip.  I'm not sure who
had > > the car before us (but it would have been interesting to see what they
look > > like..... <grin>)  Of course, it immediately went out the window.
Thinking > > back, it's kinda humerous.....   ughhh...   how can I be thinking
such a > > thing <shudder...> > > Gee, other folks claim to see him working
in a local 7-11; your folks' Caddy > was *haunted* by Him! > > "...the King
is Dead, but he's not forgotten...." :) :) :) > > Seriously, I wonder what
comapny supplied *that* after-market item? >

I think I saw something similar in JC Ripmeoff (maybe)  it might have been
a different tune

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 19:09:58 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

C.R.F. wrote:
>
> Now you are changing the rules.  The first post suggested a bigger wire
> for an increase in voltage...

Nay, Wiz-Man.  Increasing voltage does not, of itself, translate into a
bigger wire.  Increasing CURRENT does (which would be the result of
increasing voltage).  The voltage ratings you may see marked on wiring
indicates the arc-over resistance of the insulation.

> ...more amps (at the same voltage) bigger wire,

Yup.

> ...with the converse being more voltage (at the same amps) smaller
> wire.

Nope.  Same amps, same wire.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 16:01:49 -0300
Subject: ADMIN: How to Leave Us

With the end of the college year approaching I'm noticing an increase
in the number of requests for help in leaving the list. I'll repost the
instructions below and if anyone is thinking of departing the scene,
please hold on to this message. Thanks.

Oldsmobile Mailing List

A subscribe or unsubscribe request has been received from your account.
If you wish to do so please follow the following procedure:

Individuals can subscribe and unsubscribe from the Oldsmobile list
directly. All membership requests are to be sent to majordomo and not the
list itself.

Send subscribe or unsubscribe requests to:

majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca

Include one of the following exactly, including the hyphen if required, as
the only text in the body of the message:

subscribe oldsmobile
(to add your account to the real-time Olds list)

subscribe oldsmobile-digest
(to add your account to the daily digest version)

unsubscribe oldsmobile
(to remove your account from the Olds list)

unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest
(to remove your account from the digest version)

If you cannot complete any of these commands successfully, please contact
Greg Beaulieu, the list administrator at:

ab348@chebucto.ns.ca

Thank you!


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 16:21:20 -0300
Subject: moulding clips

Any one know a source for hard to find moulding retainers.  Can't seem
to find clips to hold on the rocker mldgs on my '63 starfire.  The mldg
in 1 7/8" wide and clips snap into rectangular holes on rocker panels.
Any leads appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 17:21:17 -0300
Subject: Re: junkyards (fwd)

Might be interesting, where are you, and how much do you think that they'd
want for it?

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu


> 66 caddy cdv:  excellent condition bumpers and chrome all there and in great
 > cond.  low mile orig car skirts are almost perfect and both there > > If
anything here sounds appealing e-mail me at San2cci@msn.com.  I can get it >
for you for what it costs + shipping. > > Gil > > >

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 19:26:44 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever

C.R.F. wrote:
>
> The 66 Toro and Mike wrote:

> > If you double the voltage and *everything*else*stayed*the*same*, the
> > current would also double.  As in 2I = 2E/I.
>
> Actually this can't happen.  If everything else stayed the same, that
> means the load is the same, and the amps must fall by 1/2.

Nope.  If the voltage was 6 volts and the load was 1 ohm, the current
would be 6 amps.  If the voltage was increased to 12 volts and with the
same 1 ohm load, the current would now be 12 amps.

If the WORK performed stayed the same and you doubled the voltage, the
current would decrease by half.

> If the amps stayed the same, then the load would double.

If the voltage changed.  You have to keep the equation balanced.

> We sort of have an electrical double talk here don't we.

Not the first time.   ;)

> And the original post said that the wire size must be increased because
> of increased voltage,

Which is, of course, wrong.

> ...if you think that is the case then YOU better keep your day job!

Job???  You mean I have to get a job???   :o

> I believe I have a good idea of what was being said, mis-said, and
> actually was meant here.

I'm sure you do.  The corrections were meant for those who didn't.

> It also allows me a lot of time to work on my GED.

Best of luck.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 06:51:23 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever

>>Ohm's Law does have an opinion on this.  Current is equal to the voltage
>>divided by the resistance: I = E/R.  If you double the voltage and
>>*everything*else*stayed*the*same*, the current would also double.  As in
>>2I = 2E/I.
>>
>
>Actually this can't happen.  If everything else stayed the same, that means
>the load is the same, and the amps must fall by 1/2.  If the amps stayed the
>same, then the load would double.  We sort of have an electrical double talk
>here don't we.

I don't think you've quit grasped ohm's law here wiz.  From what I
understand an electrical component sort of "draws" current.  When you apply
voltage to a component, the more voltage applied, the more current a
component with a given resistance will draw.  As stated by that part of
ohm's law that sez I=E/R where I=amperage E=voltage and R= Resistance.  So
doubleing voltage supplied to a 10 ohm component, from say 10 volts to 20
will increase the current that the component draws,  from 1 to 2 amps.  The
power used in watts goes from 10 to 20.  However, if you run 20 volts and
increase the resistance to 40 ohms, you will draw .5 amps and still use 10
watts.  Ideally the 10 watts used by the component will produce 10 watts
worth of work.  (10 watts of light or 10 watts of heat for example)

So is if you want to produce 10 watts of heat, you can run 20 volts to a
heater with a resistance of 40 ohms and draw only .5 amps of current.  A 10
watt heater that runs on 10 volts would require 1 amp to produce the same
heat, so it draws more current and requires bigger (thicker) wire.  If you
ran 20 volts to a 10watt heater that normally used 10 volts, you'd draw 2
amps and produce 40 watts of heat until something overloads and burns up
because it's trying to handle 4 times the current it's supposed to.
Amperage will toast wires long before voltage ever will.



>  And the original post said that the wire size must be
>increased because of increased voltage, if you think that is the case then
>YOU better keep your day job!

Uh, I think electronic type stuff *is* Mike's day job.  And no he probably
shouldn't quit.

<snip>
>>a device operating on the
>>higher voltage will be able to do the same amount of WORK at a lower
>>current (and smaller wire) than a device operating on the lower voltage.
>>
>>The larger current draw of the MSD8 is no doubt due to a higher output
>>and more complicated (and less efficient) electronics.

Whoops, I just re-hashed that above.

>I believe I have a good idea of what was being said, mis-said, and actually
>was meant here.

Maybe it makes more sense now?


Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:15:59 -0300
Subject: headers, gaskets and such...

Okay all, I'm going to be installing my headers soon, probably within the
next week or two, and I need to buy parts.  First off, what gaskets etc.
do I need exactly?  Anybody have any brand preferences that they would
like me stick by?  Money IS an object, but I'd like good quality and am
willing to pay a little bit for it.  That, and it's HARD to manouver
headers in a G-body on a 350, so I want the gaskets etc. to last as long
as possible.  I'm having the pipe custom bent, and using flowmaster
mufflers...  Hoping for a quick response on this...

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350, 4bbl. TH375, 70k miles)

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:06:44 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: a lot of blown engines

     The message that I got from all the blown engine stories was "Don't
     use a high volume oil pump without the restrictors!"  I think it was a
     good point and I'm glad to have it reinforced (for my good too!).  I
     think we're all tempted by the "bigger is better" philosophy when
     rebuilding engines and opt for the high volume pump just 'cause we
     can.

     The 307 in my '84 H/O shifts at 5200 when I floor it.  This is stock
     and it was intended to do this (although obviously not on every
     takeoff every day).

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: RE: a lot of blown engines Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/9/97 12:06 PM

>My 350 went at 4900 rpms, I hardly think thats excessive.  It was there =
>for around 10-15 seconds.

     I agree. A 350 should be able to turn 5 grand all day long without any
     = ill effects. Just look at what kind of torture 455 Marine engines
     hold =

------------------------------

From: "John M. Barnes" <CHMPFISH@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 16:35:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil wrote:
>
> What about the air cleaner?  I've been told the air cleaner dosen't clear
> the hood.  Can I use O.A.I. set up?
>
> ********
> I'm not sure - haven't tried
>
> John Pajak
> Lexington Park, Maryland
>
> ********

If we're still talking about the ram air hood put on a 69 - it will not work.
The orginal OAI sticks up too high and the hood won't close.

John

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:07:00 -0300
Subject: Re: headers, gaskets and such...

Clayton,
            Fel-Pro makes a good Hi-performance header gasket that I have
been using for years. They don't blow out like the mr gasket ones and if you
ever have to take them off they come off in one piece and don't leave parts
on the header or head. You should be able to get them at any parts store that
carry Fel-Pro although you will have to order them but shouldn't take more
than a couple of days.














                                                                        Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 20:01:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

John M. Barnes wrote:
>
> Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil wrote:
> >
> > What about the air cleaner?  I've been told the air cleaner dosen't clear
> > the hood.  Can I use O.A.I. set up?
> >
> > ********
> > I'm not sure - haven't tried
> >
> > John Pajak
> > Lexington Park, Maryland
> >
> > ********
>
> If we're still talking about the ram air hood put on a 69 - it will not
work. The > orginal OAI sticks up too high and the hood won't close. > > John

How about a regular air cleaner?

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:12:50 -0300
Subject: Re: moulding clips

On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, John M. Loban wrote:
> Any one know a source for hard to find moulding retainers.  Can't seem
> to find clips to hold on the rocker mldgs on my '63 starfire.  The mldg
> in 1 7/8" wide and clips snap into rectangular holes on rocker panels.
> Any leads appreciated.

I have 2 catalogs from places that carry all sorts of molding clips plus
tons of other small hardware: nuts, bolts, screws, door hardware, clamps,
you name it. They're fun to look through if nothing else:

Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.
P.O. Box 328, R.D. ª2
Windber, Pa. 15963
Phone: 814-467-9842

Mr. G's Fasteners (the same place that does the plastic chrome plating)
5613 Elliott Reeder Rd.
Fort Worth, Tx. 76117-6091
Phone: 817-831-3501

I'd like to be able to give you a catalog ª for the clip you need but I
don't think I can tell you without seeing the original. But they both have
tons of choices, none of them expensive.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Oldsnut1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:38:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

Hey Todd!
With the Harland Sharp rockers you'll need taller valve covers which in turn
you won't be able to properly mount your a/c compressor(if you've got a/c)
I ended up going with the Comp. Cams adj. rockers.
The Harland Sharp are a better quality but if you're not going to all out
race your car then the Comp. Cams are just fine and cost less too.
As for the pushrods you should change them if they're more then 40,000 mi.
old. (just as a safty measure )but I'm pretty sure you don't need any special
pushrods for those rockers.

Happy Oldsmobileing
Anthony B.
Oldsnut1@aol.com
75 H/O W-30 (Black)


------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:54:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks

Hmm.  Why, pray tell, were Chrysler Imperials banned from demo derbies?  Too
solid?  Distracting fins?  They would run out of gas in 30 seconds?

Olds content:  My '77 Delta 88 was in a demo derby.  At least I think it was
my old '77.  Hard to tell.  It didn't win.

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 19:13:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

I bought a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. for $65.00 from a sheriff sale, not bad
Huh.
Rick

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 19:23:50 -0300
Subject: Re: junkyards (fwd)

In a message dated 97-04-09 15:22:26 EDT, you write:

<<
 Subject: junkyards >>
I might be interested in the bucket seats, what shape are the springs and
cushions?Also, where are you located? How about the ashtray cover and
glovebox?
THANKS
Rick
Boise, Id
70 cutlass supreme conv.
70 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 19:27:46 -0300
Subject: 12-bolt rear in a g-body

I was checking out the salvage yard that Rob Barry told me about and as I
was checking out a G-body Cutlass I noticed an older Delta 88 parked next
to it.  It had 12 bolt rear in it and just out of curiosity could this big
differential fit under a G-body Cutlass?  I don't know what gears are in
it though.

If anyone else is interested in it let me know because the yard doesn't
have a phone.

My second question stems from finding a limited slip unit in an '88
Cutlass Supreme Classic. I don't know what ratio is in these either but it
had the posi tag on the diff.  I couldn't find the key to check the
sticker in the trunk either.  I'm sure it's the 7.5" rear.  So it should
swap easily into my diff.  My question is how difficult it is to remove
the gears and limited slip carriers?  Could someone like myself pull it
with limited knowledge and tools?  Also how long would this take? I'm not
going to try to install these myself but want to have them for later.

Thanks in advance,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 19:36:28 -0300
Subject: 1988 Cutlass Owners manual for sale

I have for sale a 1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic Owner's Manual, music
systems manual and maintenance schedule booklets with a neat maroon vinyl
folder with "gold" rocket emblem on it.
Asking $7, includes shipping.

If anyone is interested please e-mail me at wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

Also found 1988 Cutlass Rallye Pac and dark blue sport steering wheel.
Will check into it if anyone is interested.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "John M. Barnes" <CHMPFISH@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:57:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

> >
> > If we're still talking about the ram air hood put on a 69 - it will not
work. The > > orginal OAI sticks up too high and the hood won't close. > > > >
John > > How about a regular air cleaner?


Yeah, a regular chrome one works fine. I forget which element I used but I
think it was about 3" or so.

John

------------------------------

From: "John M. Barnes" <CHMPFISH@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 18:58:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

Yorcoy@aol.com wrote:
>
> I bought a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. for $65.00 from a sheriff sale, not
bad > Huh. > Rick

Yep, pretty good. Tell you what, I'll give $75.00 for it. A quick 10 bucks,
what do you think!?! :)

John

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 20:03:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Eastwood Nyalic Clear

At 01:41 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Is Eastwood's Nyalic clear any good?
>
>I would like a clear semi-gloss paint that can stand up to engine temps,
>not necessirily exhaust but stuff like temp and oil switches etc.
>
>Any other recommendations?  Tried varithane, not tough enough.
>
>

  You may want to try Rustoleum. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin.
I've used it on various under-the-hood components  and have been very
satisfied with the results in all cases.  I've also seen high-temp varieties
of this but don't remember if clear was one of them.

 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 22:08:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

John M. Barnes wrote:
>
> > >
> > > If we're still talking about the ram air hood put on a 69 - it will not
work. The > > > orginal OAI sticks up too high and the hood won't close. > > > 
>
> > John > > > > How about a regular air cleaner? > > Yeah, a regular chrome
one works fine. I forget which element I used but I think it was > about 3" or
so. > > JohnThanks !!

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 20:25:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

Well, you better let me think it over, after I sink several thousand into it
to restore it, I may have been better off. Parts are pretty scarce here in
Idaho.

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 20:48:32 -0300
Subject: Re: moulding clips

Thanks for your reply- Restoration Co. doesn't carry one at least that
is what the owner said and I don't see anything in his catalog that
would work.  Mr fastner wants $9.00 to send me a catalog.  I'm too cheap
to for that.  I asked them if they could fax me a picture of anything
that might work but they refused.  I guess I have to find someone who
has run into this need before.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 20:48:42 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever

At 07:26 PM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>C.R.F. wrote:
>>
>> The 66 Toro and Mike wrote:
>
>> > If you double the voltage and *everything*else*stayed*the*same*, the
>> > current would also double.  As in 2I = 2E/I.
>>
>> Actually this can't happen.  If everything else stayed the same, that
>> means the load is the same, and the amps must fall by 1/2.
>
>Nope.  If the voltage was 6 volts and the load was 1 ohm, the current
>would be 6 amps.  If the voltage was increased to 12 volts and with the
>same 1 ohm load, the current would now be 12 amps.

If you did this then EVERYTHING else did not stay the same, you increased
the current to 12 amps.

And Maybe I'm confused.  Doesn't load = Watts ???  Work performed certainly
= watts.  AS I remember 1 hp = 746 watts.  HP = work, 33000 ft pounds per
minute.

>If the WORK performed stayed the same and you doubled the voltage, the
>current would decrease by half.

I agree 100%.

>> And the original post said that the wire size must be increased because
>> of increased voltage,
>
>Which is, of course, wrong.

Boy I wish I knew how we got here.

>    66 Toro
>The /\   /\ and Mike
>
>
>--
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
>
>

The Wiz Snipped

------------------------------

From: Olds Mobile <dmtaylor@tiac.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 20:50:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

> This poster was also considering changing over to the power door locks,
> which would be much easier at the change of the doors, until you get to its
> sub-harness.
>
> And then hanging and squaring up the doors is a major project alone.
>
> I think it would be better to change the small parts.
>

I know this is the best way. I put power windows, door locks and power
seat in my 84 Calis T-Top. A Sat morning at the yard and a couple of
evenings and the job was done. I even took the time to run the harness
where they were supposed to be. It did take extra time though as the
right side harness runs behind the heater. You do have to change the
track and crank mechanism. Take everything from the donor car. You also
have to drill a couple of access holes to allow for tighting the bolts
that hold the window motor in place. All i all it goes pretty easy if
you take your time.

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:01:50 -0300
Subject: Re: heads for sale (update)(update)

my 64 has adjustable rockers on 385101 heads. the car is original, but
canadian. 330 cid. Everything is the same as later non-adjustables except
the aluminum cross piecers are stamped steel and don't bottom out to the
head.The pivots are individual and  steel, they are linked together by the
steel cross piece. I think that these 383821 heads that I advertised can
use the non-adjustable rocker system as long as you use bolts and not
studs.
Just a thought, but why does olds use cross pieces? If chevys don't, and I
have 110 thou. miles on a 6500 rpm capable small block with no guide
plates. If guide plates were used maybe you wouldn't need cross pieces.
???????????
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:09:42 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever

At 06:51 AM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>>>Ohm's Law does have an opinion on this.  Current is equal to the voltage
>>>divided by the resistance: I = E/R.  If you double the voltage and
>>>*everything*else*stayed*the*same*, the current would also double.  As in
>>>2I = 2E/I.
>>>
>>
>>Actually this can't happen.  If everything else stayed the same, that means
>>the load is the same, and the amps must fall by 1/2.  If the amps stayed the
>>same, then the load would double.  We sort of have an electrical double talk
>>here don't we.
>
>I don't think you've quit grasped ohm's law here wiz.  From what I
>understand an electrical component sort of "draws" current.  When you apply
>voltage to a component, the more voltage applied, the more current a
>component with a given resistance will draw.  As stated by that part of
>ohm's law that sez I=E/R where I=amperage E=voltage and R= Resistance.  So
>doubleing voltage supplied to a 10 ohm component, from say 10 volts to 20
>will increase the current that the component draws,  from 1 to 2 amps.  The
>power used in watts goes from 10 to 20.  However, if you run 20 volts and
>increase the resistance to 40 ohms, you will draw .5 amps and still use 10
>watts.  Ideally the 10 watts used by the component will produce 10 watts
>worth of work.  (10 watts of light or 10 watts of heat for example)

And as here I go again, as I actually feel I do have at least a limited
grasp of Ohms Law.  I see where you are going, and I think you are equating
apples and oranges.  If you have a 1 hp electric motor, and it is run on
110vac, at full load it will draw 746watts = 110v x 6.8amps.  If you run it
at 220vac, then it will draw 220v x 3.4 amps, in each case = to 1 hp.  The
reduced amperage will allow for reduced wire size.

I think you are detaching work = watts from your discussion.

If you have a 1 Ohm resistance it is 1 Ohm at 10v, 20v or 10,000v, 10amp,
20amp, or 10,000amp, here I agree.



>So is if you want to produce 10 watts of heat, you can run 20 volts to a
>heater with a resistance of 40 ohms and draw only .5 amps of current.  A 10
>watt heater that runs on 10 volts would require 1 amp to produce the same
>heat, so it draws more current and requires bigger (thicker) wire.  If you
>ran 20 volts to a 10watt heater that normally used 10 volts, you'd draw 2
>amps and produce 40 watts of heat until something overloads and burns up
>because it's trying to handle 4 times the current it's supposed to.

>Amperage will toast wires long before voltage ever will.

This line is exactly my point.  The ORIGINAL post to this thread said that
the HEI distributor required a bigger wire because the voltage was greater.
Voltage, not amperage, not watts, not resistance, but voltage. I don't
really know how we got here from that.

At a given load which to me means watts or hp if I'm wrong here I'll stop:

1. if you increase the voltage the amperage drops, and you may use smaller
wire.

2. if you decrease the voltage the amperage increases and larger wire is
required.

>>  And the original post said that the wire size must be
>>increased because of increased voltage, if you think that is the case then
>>YOU better keep your day job!
>
>Uh, I think electronic type stuff *is* Mike's day job.  And no he probably
>shouldn't quit.

I'm not really suggesting that he should.  Actually he started the day job
thread, which I'm sure was posted with some humor, and certainly received
that way.  I'm quite sure, based on the substances of his posts that he
isn't stupid, and I don't have a job at McDonalds, 1st, 2nd, or 3rd fry
cook, Ronalds name badge or not.  I found it possible to retire when I was
43 and did so.  It gave me a lot of time to play with my old cars, and to
pursue my GED.  I make more $ just signing the back of checks that I ever
did working, and that suits me just fine.  If I wanted a day job I don't
think I could find time for it.

><snip>
>>>a device operating on the
>>>higher voltage will be able to do the same amount of WORK at a lower
>>>current (and smaller wire) than a device operating on the lower voltage.
>>>
>>>The larger current draw of the MSD8 is no doubt due to a higher output
>>>and more complicated (and less efficient) electronics.
>
>Whoops, I just re-hashed that above.
>
>>I believe I have a good idea of what was being said, mis-said, and actually
>>was meant here.
>
>Maybe it makes more sense now?

No... It made more a lot more sense without your Ohms paragraph, which I did
not find to be quite to the subject at hand; one of those close but no
cigars kind.

>Greg Pruett
>`72 Vista-Cruiser
>`67 Cutlass Supreme

The Wix Waxes Wonce More

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:18:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Sleeper? (was: Re[4]: Bodies)

At 02:03 PM 4/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, that does it!  I've been waiting for months hoping that someone else
>would ask this question, but I guess I'm going to have to take the shame...
>
>What exactly is meant by the term "sleeper"?
>
>
>----------
>>           suspension parts, one could build a real sleeper Caddy.  I
>
>
>
1. In Hollywood it was a movie.

2. In the railroad line it is another name for railroad ties.

2A. In the railroad line, it is certains types of varnish.

3. In espionage it's an agent that is put into place but is not activated
until he/she is needed.

4. In the world of collectibles it is a superb or rare find at a very low
price.

5. In the world of cattle it is an earmarked, but un-branded calf.

6. In the world of cars, it is substanitally powered car disguised to look
like a slow boat.

Anon. I

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:18:31 -0300
Subject: Re: 64 F85 Deluxe

At 01:58 PM 4/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>"I would also
>like to get a little better gas mileage, what can I do to improve that?"
>
>Ron,
>
>Swap in a Quad4.  ;)
>
> Jim Townsend
>
> '90 Calais HO Quad4
>
>
>
Buy a diesel.

Anon. I

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:28:54 -0300
Subject: Re: heads for sale (update)(update)

At 09:01 PM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>my 64 has adjustable rockers on 385101 heads. the car is original, but
>canadian. 330 cid. Everything is the same as later non-adjustables except
>the aluminum cross piecers are stamped steel and don't bottom out to the
>head.The pivots are individual and  steel, they are linked together by the
>steel cross piece. I think that these 383821 heads that I advertised can
>use the non-adjustable rocker system as long as you use bolts and not
>studs.
>Just a thought, but why does olds use cross pieces? If chevys don't, and I
>have 110 thou. miles on a 6500 rpm capable small block with no guide
>plates. If guide plates were used maybe you wouldn't need cross pieces.
>???????????
>Scott
>kozhill@titanlink.com
>
>
Scott,

Thanks for the reply.  So there IS an adjustable valve train that is not on
a shaft.  And on a 330 ci to boot.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:16:24 -0300
Subject: 12-bolt rear in a g-body

OL>My second question stems from finding a limited slip unit in an '88
OL>Cutlass Supreme Classic. I don't know what ratio is in these either but it
OL>had the posi tag on the diff.  I couldn't find the key to check the
OL>sticker in the trunk either.  I'm sure it's the 7.5" rear.  So it should
OL>swap easily into my diff.  My question is how difficult it is to remove
OL>the gears and limited slip carriers?  Could someone like myself pull it
OL>with limited knowledge and tools?  Also how long would this take? I'm not
OL>going to try to install these myself but want to have them for later.

OL>Thanks in advance,

OL>Bill Reilly
OL>'85 Cutlass Supreme
OL>wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

I think it would probley be easier to swap the whole rear end.


Daren
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:29:38 -0300
Subject: Re: heads for sale (update)(update)

OL>Just a thought, but why does olds use cross pieces? If chevys don't, and I
OL>have 110 thou. miles on a 6500 rpm capable small block with no guide
OL>plates. If guide plates were used maybe you wouldn't need cross pieces.
OL>???????????
OL>Scott
OL>kozhill@titanlink.com

My guess is that with fulcroms 1 part will guide the rockers and give
something for the rockers to pivot on, and the other design would
require guide plates and some type of pivots for the rockers to pivot on
which would be at least 3 different parts and would take more time to
assemble.


Daren

daren@qconline

------------------------------

From: James Pindar <jp@webspan.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 00:20:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming one?

IRONMAN wrote:
>
> At 01:17 AM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >This W41 owner must sell his. 1992 Achieva SCX W41, 5 speed, 82000 miles,
> > power windows, c/c, pdl, etc. New Goodrich 235 60 14's. Other new parts.
> >$4500 or best offer. Located in New Jersey. Contact jp@webspan.net.
> >You may also want to try installing a valve on the intake manifold water
> >jacket and shut off the hot water during the hot weather. Really helped.
> >2,000 for a transaxle? Holy cow!!
>
> I've done some research on this transaxle, and it's not like most of them
> it uses worm gears to tranfer the power to the wheels under various weather
> conditions and in times of launching. just look at the limited production
> of these transaxles...200 in the 442 W-41's and some inthe achieva SCX no
> ?? and very few in internationals. these tranny were also specially buit by
> olds racing team so they have some quality behind them...and if anyone ever
> runs across one at a good price let me know!!
>
> Jeff
>
> what's this about shutting off the water the the throttle body? did you try
it?

Yes, and it helps. Think about it. Idle at a light on a hot day
and think about how much heat that the relatively slow air stream is
picking up from the throttle body. Touch the throttle body the next time
you are under the hood.
I also remove the baffle that is located behind the battery. That
unshrouds the air intake and allows the air from in front of the grille
to go around and get to the intake. Works sort of like the suggestion to
put a snorkle to the bottom of the car except without the worry of
getting water in it.

Jim

------------------------------

From: "Frank Gonzalez" <frank@tridentsound.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 22:47:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks

- ----------
> From: Kabootski@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: loumash@tiac.net
> Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
> Date: Wednesday, April 09, 1997 5:54 PM
>
> Hmm.  Why, pray tell, were Chrysler Imperials banned from demo derbies?
Too
> solid?  Distracting fins?  They would run out of gas in 30 seconds?
>
> Olds content:  My '77 Delta 88 was in a demo derby.  At least I think it
was
> my old '77.  Hard to tell.  It didn't win.
>
I heard old Chrysler Station wagons were disallowed because they  are
pretty much unstoppable.

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 22:57:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 307

Thomas Martin wrote:
>
> For the people who are familliar.  What are the weak points in the Olds
> designs and specifically, what are the weak points in the 307's?
>
> I drive this car for reliability (no rice burner can top this Olds!
> 187,750 miles, no major work, hardly any minor work!  Just TLC) and want
> to know what to look out for.
>
> Thanks
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass 307

On my engine, and I think a couple others have mentioned similar
problems, the main intake-to-heads gasket (one piece, I think) goes bad
and coolant leaks out at the front of the engine, on the driver's side,
and dribbles down by the water pump (at least that's what mine did) and
makes it look like a faulty water pump.  My mechanic said that my water
pump had gone bad, so I replaced it (myself) and in doing so, noticed
that the coolant was coming from the intake-to-head gasket area.  That's
the ONLY problem my _whole_ car has had in the two years that I've owned
it...

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:58:22 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

OL>Now you are changing the rules.  The first post suggested a bigger wire for
OL>an increase in voltage, now you are increasing amperage.  And here Miss
OL>Fortran and I agree, more amps (at the same voltage) bigger wire, with the
OL>converse being more voltage (at the same amps) smaller wire.

OL>The Wiz

I apologize! At the end of paragraph I did say "extra voltage" I meant
more power or what ever the correct term is, like I said at the
beginning of the paragraph.I NEVER said anything about doubling the
voltage!


Daren

daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 23:34:30 -0300
Subject: Rocker questions

Thanks for all your input.  I did check with Summit on their Comp Cams
roller rocker kit - 1442-KIT.  It sells for $248.  The major problem with it
is that the screw in studs it comes with are 7/16 studs, larger than the
stock 3/8 holes, thus head removal and machining is required.  Further they
cannot substitute a 3/8 by 7/16 stud in the kit.  So that means I'm back
to DMR or Mondello for a complete kit, or I may try to piece together my
own "kit" based on what ya'll have said, particularly with regard to
a complete roller rocker not really being necessary for street use.....

Todd
71 442

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 23:49:47 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks

     I believe it was because they we damn-near indestructable.  Range
     could also be a factor <g>.


     Peter G. Teubel

     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98 (50% complete....currently a driveway ornament)
     '52 Plymouth (Project-in-waiting....driveway ornament ª2)
     '73 Imperial (known as USS Enterprise)
     '82 98 (known as the USS Nimitz)
     '84 C10 P-up (junkyard hauler)
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)
     '88 Subaru Turbo (Distainful communter vehicle that actually gets out
                       of its own way)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo
Tanks Author:  Kabootski@aol.com at imail Date:    4/9/97 6:54 PM


Hmm.  Why, pray tell, were Chrysler Imperials banned from demo derbies?  Too
solid?  Distracting fins?  They would run out of gas in 30 seconds?

Olds content:  My '77 Delta 88 was in a demo derby.  At least I think it was
my old '77.  Hard to tell.  It didn't win.


------------------------------

From: "Kenneth G. Holland Jr." <rottin@coil.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 23:56:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker questions

tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> Thanks for all your input.  I did check with Summit on their Comp Cams
> roller rocker kit - 1442-KIT.  It sells for $248.  The major problem with it
> is that the screw in studs it comes with are 7/16 studs, larger than the
> stock 3/8 holes, thus head removal and machining is required.  Further they
> cannot substitute a 3/8 by 7/16 stud in the kit.  So that means I'm back
> to DMR or Mondello for a complete kit, or I may try to piece together my
> own "kit" based on what ya'll have said, particularly with regard to
> a complete roller rocker not really being necessary for street use.....
>


  Someone misinformed you.  I have Comp. Cams Magnum  1442-Kit that I
bought from
Summit for $248.. The studs are dual size...ie:little on bottem and
bigger on top
I installed them on a set of -STOCK- 1969 455 "C" heads and they fit
fine.

Ken

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 00:04:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker questions

tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> Thanks for all your input.  I did check with Summit on their Comp Cams
> roller rocker kit - 1442-KIT.  It sells for $248.  The major problem with it
> is that the screw in studs it comes with are 7/16 studs, larger than the
> stock 3/8 holes, thus head removal and machining is required.  Further they
> cannot substitute a 3/8 by 7/16 stud in the kit.  So that means I'm back
> to DMR or Mondello for a complete kit, or I may try to piece together my
> own "kit" based on what ya'll have said, particularly with regard to
> a complete roller rocker not really being necessary for street use.....
>
> Todd
> 71 442

Todd, I too have a 71 442, and I used the Mondello adjustable rocker arm
kit, with the pushrods, screw in studs, guide plates, and pivot balls,
and rockers.  These studs screwed in with no machining, and they work
great.  They use a special rocker arm, kindof like Chevy style, with a
hex nut and allen screw locking nut.  I have had NO problems with this
set-up for the street.  And it fits under the stock valve cover.  If you
don't want to dissassemble everything, this might be the way to go.
(Remember, this is NOT the ROLLER TYPE that Mondello also sells.)

Hope this helps.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª603
********************************
