To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #695


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 27 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 695

Re: About my Oldsmobile..
Re: Value of an '83 Hurst/Olds?
Re: About my Oldsmobile..
Re: 350 Buildup?
Re: Piston Bore Data
Desktop Dyno and my carb/cam situation
Re: What size carbs yall think?
Re: Some Questions
Re: About my Oldsmobile..
Re: What size carbs yall think?
Re: Piston Bore Data
Re: What size carbs yall think?
Re: Desktop Dyno and my carb/cam situation
Re: About my Oldsmobile..
Re: block identity?
Summer is here, heater blower motor decided to have vacation

Re: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!
Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)
Right Fender
Re: Speakers found at swap meet
big block doesn't fit
Re: 350 Buildup?
Re: DMR and Mondello for Olds parts [was Re: Mondello s*cks
Re: Mondello sucks
Re: Mondello sucks
Re: Mondello sucks
Re: 350 Buildup?
442 Wheels
Re: Convertible top pads
Oil System Mods. (was: Mondello sucks)
Re: radio speaker/Indy Olds stuf
RE: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!
New Conv. Top
Re: New Conv. Top
Re: Indy Olds stuf
Re: LD Title Transfers?
Valve Rotators.
Re: Radio Speaker Info
Re: Original Parts Group
Re: WIRING PROBLEMS
Holes in my dash!
Electric Seat Question
Re: 350 Buildup?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 21:47:40 -0300
Subject: Re: About my Oldsmobile..

Richard Rodriguez wrote:
>
> I have a 1971Delta88custom..I have been having a problem with it over
> heating..I have changed out the thermostat,Radiator,water pump and various
> hoses..I really love this car and NEED it..Please send help...What should I
> try next...Seems as though it isn't circulating very good...HELP!

A couple of questions: Is the fan shroud in place and in one piece?
Believe it or not a missing or damaged fan shroud is a ticket to
overheat city. Did the car overheat with out a thermostat? Running a car
sans thermostat for a prolonged time is bad, but for testing.....

Danny

------------------------------

From: Nick Lamboy <nlamboy@global2000.net>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 00:39:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Value of an '83 Hurst/Olds?

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a car to drive on a regular basis now that I only have one
> play car (the '68) and in my searching I encountered the following car: an
> '83 Hurst, one owner, 116,000 kms (about 70K miles), original paint (owner
> says it needs refreshing though), said to be otherwise mint, no mechanical
> problems to speak of, loaded with everything. Owner is asking $5K Cdn
> (about $3700 US). I haven't seen the car yet, so I can't say whether the
> description is true (it's about an hour away from here).
>
> Assuming the description is accurate, that sounds like not a bad deal. Am
> I wrong? Discussion here a while back over the '83 H/O stripes/decals
> being made from unobtainium would concern me, though. Just what I need,
> another car I don't want to drive in bad weather... ;-)
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

Greg,
I would say for the price and being the original owner I would
definately do it. If your not I myself would be interested if it wasnt
so for from NY. I bought my 83 about 4 years ago with 75,000 miles for
around $5,500. Mine wasnt from the original owner but I feel I did ok.
Orignally my car was sold and grew up in Georgia for about 60,000 miles
or so. From the dent in the oil pan and a couple of scraps on the
underside I figure the guy who owned it must have been a Dukes of
Hazzard fan, jumping gullys with Rosco in hot pursuit.
The stipes are avalible if you willing to pay the price but that has
stopped me from doing over the whole exterior. My biggest problem is the
interior from being stored for long period. If anyone spots any 83 Hurst
for sale under 7500 in the Northeast put it up here and maybey I'll be
able to give mine a companion.
 Also any wrecks would intrest me as well. (I'm sure my father is just
wishing for one of his sons to have another project car to store over in
the garage he built for HIS cars).

Nick

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:13:24 -0300
Subject: Re: About my Oldsmobile..

In a message dated 97-05-26 22:37:23 EDT, you write:

>
>  I have a 1971Delta88custom..I have been having a problem with it over
>  heating..I have changed out the thermostat,Radiator,water pump and various

>  hoses..I really love this car and NEED it..Please send help...What should
I
>  try next...Seems as though it isn't circulating very good...HELP!
>
>
Danny mentioned the fan shroud. I do not have a fan shroud (missing) for my
425 and even though I use Water Wetter (which I have noticed does help it run
cooler), the engine will run very hot if the oil is low. This is a recurring
situation because I am putting off a ring job that I rather need......

On such occasions my oil light would not come on but the engine would runn
hot even if it were a cool day.

But it is just my two farthings...

Hope this helped.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:37:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup?

At 09:20 AM 5/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I need to know becuase my rebuild was
>basically what you did, but I'm getting way too much valve noise with
>the stock equipment. I want to install the comp. cams rocker kit but I
>want to be sure that they will work for me.

Fernando, you're still clattering? What cam did you have in there? If it's a
reduced-base circle cam, the stock setup will give you too much clearance.
It thought we had eliminated that possibility last summer, though?

>I'm also wondering, I re-used the main stud bolts and connecting arm
>bolt for the rebuild. I don't intend on reving to past 5000, but you
>never know what will happen on the street. Is it too late to re-install
>new bolts after a rebuild and some mileage?

Well, the rod bolts are pressed in, and the big-end of the rods would have
to be resized after the new ones were installed, so that's out.

I don't know why installing new bolts on the mains would be a problem,
though; heck, you torque them down to check the clearance when building the
motor, then undo them and torque them down again; would the engine "know"
that you're torquing down a different bolt?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:37:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Piston Bore Data

At 02:48 PM 5/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>IF there are no other conflicts such as rod/cylinder wall contact, and if
>(that is a total of 2 if's so far), miraculously, the piston head actually
>does not come in contact with the cylinder head or valves. Then wouldn't
>using the original 425 pistons with 455 crank and rods result in a high
>compression 455. Again, this is a multiple "if" theoretical question?

Actually, I'm not sure if the 425 or the 455 had the higher compression
height. You'd think that the difference in stroke would have been
compensated for by the difference in rod length. There's a formula available
for computing compression ratio, and one of the figures involved would be
the distance that the piston is from the top of the bore at TDC (which
produces a certain volume in the cylinder), as well as the stroke. If you
designed an engine to use the exact same combustion chamber (as all Olds
big-blocks did), the same piston dish and the same cylinder volume at TDC,
but only changed the stroke, then the compression on those two motors would
be widely different. Thus, even if the factory spec for the compression
height of 425 and 455 pistons were identical, the 10.25:1 pistons for each
motor would be very different.

>I understand compression height, but is compression height the same for, say
>425 pistons of varying compression ratio (i.e. dished, flat, domed)?

Yes, because all Olds pistons were either flat-top or dished; no dome
involved in factory pistons, so the top of the piston (and thus compression
height) would be the same for all of a single engine size.

>If compression height is the same, then could a 425 piston be milled down for
>455 applications?

If the compression height were the same (and I'm not sure that it is or
isn't), then you wouldn't need to mill it down, you'd simply wind up with a
different compression ratio. Actually, come to think of it the 10.25:1 425
pistons in my basement from a '66 Toro seem to have a much shallower dish
than the 10.25:1 pistons from my '70 455. If the compression height were the
same, those 425 pistons would give me a higher compression in my 455. Too
bad my 455 pistons are 200 miles away... :(

>I seem do be doing my utmost to keep this thread going...and it's getting
>kinda silly.

Nah, not silly at all; good to get the idea juices flowing!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: S/P 0666 <olds442@en.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:32:46 -0300
Subject: Desktop Dyno and my carb/cam situation

Anyone know anything about the Mr. Gasket Desktop Dyno?  I picked it
up this afternoon after all the sugestions on carb's for my motor, which
turned into
a camshaft question.  I got some interesting results.

Using the dual 850's on the Offy t-ram heres what the Desktop dyno came
up with swapping the 2 cams I have.


Comp Cams 305Hyd.                                       Mondello 40
Solid
.540 252@.050                                           .562 264@.050
.540 252@.050                                           .594 271@.050

    HP                        RPM                           HP
368                          4000                       371
433                          4500                       445
488                          5000                       504
529                          5500                       545
542                          6000                       567
542                          6500                       570
528                          7000                       554
504                          7500                       543


If I swap the 850's for 650's there is no difference below 4500rpm but
from 4500-7000rpm horsepower really suffers.  How much stock should I
put in this
Dyno software?

Ken

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:37:37 -0300
Subject: Re: What size carbs yall think?

At 01:13 AM 5/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>  The tunnel ram is an Offy.  Guy at Summit said race only. 3500-7000 I
>think.
>Summit says it's a one piece unit so I cant swap tops for a single quad
>ram(I wont
>know till it arives in the mail I guess). The Summit part number is
>5705.

I've never worked with that intake personally, though I'd considered it;
since my car is a street car first and foremost, I was afraid of losing all
low-end response. Someone on the list answered my concern and said that the
Offy intake had relatively small ports, and that he got very good street
performance out of that intake with dual 500cfm carbs.

Now, that's what he said, and Offy may have revised the castings, so yours
may very well flow right up to 7000rpm. Only way to find out is to try it
(which it sounds like you're going to do anyway... :)

The dual 4-bbls should give you better mixture distribution, though 6500
rpms with even distribution should be possible even with a well set-up
single 4-bbl. Dual 850's still seem like overkill for the revs your engine
can live at, though; perhaps start with the 650's, and move up if they don't
flow enough fuel.

>  As for the cam, I have the .540 252@.050 cam in the motor now.. I have
>a mondello grind sitting on the work bench.. (like .572/.590
>260/270@.050)  Was gonna try out the
>motor with the milder cam then step up to the big cam when Edelbrock
>gets the aluminum Olds heads finished if I need abit more thump(should I
>even bother with the mild cam? Put in the big cam right off?)  With this
>motor and 4.33 gears on the street the only place I'll be driving is to
>the gas station so it'll be race only, with an ocasional jaunt to the
>local street race spots to show them 5.0,bowtie, and mitsu boys what
>it's all about.

Yeah, with 4.33 gears, low-end response won't be much of a problem for you...
;)

Heck, start with the bigger cam, since your rev range will likely be right
where that Mondello cam feels at home. Like Jim said, however, a rev-limiter
would likely be a necessary damage-limiter for your application; 6500 rpm
will come up right quick with those gears!

Sounds like a real fun ride; each story about a buildup like this tempts me
to go just a bit more wild with my SX buildup (I just have to keep saying to
myself, "street car, street car, street car", since the nearest track is 2-3
hours north, and I'd go through two tanks of race gas getting the darn car
there!

Oh, and who's the maker of those 11:1 pistons you mentioned? Do you have a
part ª?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:37:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

At 06:38 PM 5/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>What are the times
>for a W-25 '70 442 4-speed 455ci.(Example:1/4 mile 13.4sec @ 101mph.
>0-60 in 5.5sec.)

Well, not quite that good, but around 14.5/98mph, and 0-60 in about 6.2
seconds seems to stick in my mind. Of course, most road-tests were done on
the W-30 cars, which turned 13.9-14.2 quarters for the road-testers back then.

Of course, this has nothing to do with the car's potential, in basically
stock form; this is just the times that they got. You can argue about using
different tires, factory ringers, quality of drivers, etc etc 'till the cows
come home; don't count me in that discussion, though.

>How does one go about removing the dash in a '70 442
>4-speed?

After you remove all (even, I mean ESPECIALLY, to the dash vents, which is
not easy) the under-dash ducting, and preferrably the radio, and glovebox,
and instruments, you'll have to snake your way up to get at some speednuts
that attach the studs from the plastic part of the dashboard, through holes
in the metal dash. You'll need a deep socket to get on them and clear the
stud, and I believe they're an odd size, like 11/32", though they may be a
standard 1/4" (I've blocked much of the experience out of my head...). Use a
1/4" nut driver, with as many extensions and u-joints as necessary to reach
these things. Also, stock up on LOTS of patience. These nuts are at the
extreme ends of the dashboard, and across the middle, about six in total. If
you think you've got them all, but the dash won't come out, then go back and
check for hidden nuts. They're a pain like you wouldn't believe.

>How does one go about removing the Rally Pack?

Now this is a bit easier. Remove the four screws that hold on the faceplate
(two on top, two from under at the bottom, all accessible from the front of
the dash), and remove the faceplate. The individual instruments remove
separately.

>P.S. Please Correct me if I'm wrong about this.  In 1970 the 442 engine
>size was 455ci.

Yes, as it was in '71 as well. In the following years, the other engines in
the Cutlass lineup were available as well, since the 442 simply became an
option package on the Cutlass lineup.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:57:55 -0300
Subject: Re: About my Oldsmobile..

At 08:47 PM 5/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> I have a 1971Delta88custom..I have been having a problem with it over
>> heating..I have changed out the thermostat,Radiator,water pump and various
>> hoses..I really love this car and NEED it..Please send help...What should I
>> try next...Seems as though it isn't circulating very good...HELP!

When is it overheating, all the time, at highway speeds only, at low speeds
only? And when you say it is overheating, do you mean that the temp light
comes on and fluid starts boiling out the radiator?

If it gets hot only at low speeds, I'd suspect a bad fan clutch. Mine went
on my 403, and replacing it completely solved it's tendency to run hot on
even moderately warm days.

If it runs hot only at highway speeds, you may be running the car much too
lean (plugged jet in the carburetor, maybe?), or have an engine block that
is too clogged up with junk, or have a blown head gasket (or heaven forbid,
a cracked block or head).

If it runs hot all the time, I'd suspect the new water pump is not doing its
job, or the thermostat is faulty (not opening).

Also, when you changed out the parts you mentioned, was this before the
overheating started, or in order to cure the overheating? Is the radiator
you just put in _at_least_ as big as the original one, in terms of the
number of rows of tubes?

In any case, have the system flushed out, run a 50/50 mix of
antifreeze/water, double-check the thermostat or replace it, pressure-test
the cooling system for leaks, and give the engine a good tune-up, to make
sure it is able to run well within factory specs.

Let us know how things turn out!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: S/P 0666 <olds442@en.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 02:12:40 -0300
Subject: Re: What size carbs yall think?

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> Oh, and who's the maker of those 11:1 pistons you mentioned? Do you have a
> part ª?

That would be TRW L2323.  actually kinda low compression pistons.. but
with 0 deck clearance and .060 milled off the heads it should be ball
park 11:1 if not more..
Hopefully the .562/.594 wont force me to have the pistons notched for
valves.. I'm thinking if the valve clearance isnt there I'll stick to
the .540 what with race season already in full gear.  Which brings to
mind another question.

I'm gonna be sporting some pretty serious cylinder pressure on the
nitrous.  My block does not have reciever groves in it, but I was told
by a fairly decent machine shop that they could put wire o-rings in the
heads with a .010 lip and with copper head gaskets I should have no
problem with blown head gaskets. Anyone ever heard of this
practice without the reciever grooves?

Ken

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 02:39:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Piston Bore Data

- ----------
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> >  If there is room they usually leave the rod alone and change the
piston.
> IF there are no other conflicts such as rod/cylinder wall contact, and if
> (that is a total of 2 if's so far), miraculously, the piston head
actually
> does not come in contact with the cylinder head or valves. Then wouldn't
> using the original 425 pistons with 455 crank and rods result in a high
> compression 455. Again, this is a multiple "if" theoretical question?
>
> I understand compression height, but is compression height the same for,
say
> 425 pistons of varying compression ratio (i.e. dished, flat, domed)?
>Yes
> If compression height is the same, then could a 425 piston be milled down
for
> 455 applications?
> Only if the top ring wasnt too close to the crown and if the crown was
thick enough.

> I seem do be doing my utmost to keep this thread going...and it's getting
> kinda silly.
I dont think questons are silly if you learn somethiong. I learn a lot from
you guys
> Karl Aune
> 1965 Dynamic 88
> Chicago,IL
>
> ....starting to feel piston....

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 02:44:23 -0300
Subject: Re: What size carbs yall think?

At 01:12 AM 5/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm gonna be sporting some pretty serious cylinder pressure on the
>nitrous.  My block does not have reciever groves in it, but I was told
>by a fairly decent machine shop that they could put wire o-rings in the
>heads with a .010 lip and with copper head gaskets I should have no
>problem with blown head gaskets. Anyone ever heard of this
>practice without the reciever grooves?

Well, you gotta think, if there's a head gasket between the O-ring and the
block, what's there to receive? I was under the impression that grooves in
both the head *and* the block were for when the O-ring wire *was* the head
gasket.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 03:44:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Desktop Dyno and my carb/cam situation

>Comp Cams 305Hyd.                                       Mondello 40
>Solid
>.540 252@.050                                           .562 264@.050
>.540 252@.050                                           .594 271@.050
>
>    HP                        RPM                           HP
>368                          4000                       371
>433                          4500                       445
>488                          5000                       504
>529                          5500                       545
>542                          6000                       567
>542                          6500                       570
>528                          7000                       554
>504                          7500                       543
>
>
>If I swap the 850's for 650's there is no difference below 4500rpm but
>from 4500-7000rpm horsepower really suffers.  How much stock should I
>put in this
>Dyno software?
>

What size engine are you using?  I'd recommend putting more stock in the
lower end of the block, instead of the program ;)  I'd suspect that 2 850's
would be overkill for all but the ~baddest~ 455's.  Same goes for the 7500
rpm part.  While those horses may actually be feasible at that rpm, I can't
say with much certainty that the engine could actually withstand it for very
long.  At least not stock, anyway.  A small block could do better there (had
my 350 past 8grand a few (too many;) times.  But two 850's would
~definately~ be overkill there!  I'd toyed with doing the dual-quad thing
for the Rockit (still am toying with it, actually) but have the strong
belief that I'd get better all around performance with my single four.

As for the program, I've never used it.  These are just my gut hunches.  The
horsepower numbers don't seem ~too~ outrageous, but I'd suspect they're
still optimistic figures.

Someone who has ran these combinations might be able to offer more info???


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 04:42:11 -0300
Subject: Re: About my Oldsmobile..

Richard wrote:
> I have a 1971Delta88custom..I have been having a problem
> with it over heating..I have changed out the thermostat,
> Radiator,water pump and various hoses..I really love this
> car and NEED it..Please send help...What should I try next...
> Seems as though it isn't circulating very good...HELP!

Some additional information is required here. How did this
overheating begin ? When does the overheating occur ?

So You changed the radiator. Does the new one have at least
as much cooling area as the original did ?

And You changed a bunch of hoses. Did You change the lower
radiator hose as well ? Did You notice the spring inside
this particular hose. The spring is there to keep the hose
from collapsing.

Have You checked the fan ?

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:06:22 -0300
Subject: Re: block identity?

Sure can, but why does this cam even work if my lifter angle is
oddball? Would it cause vavletrain noise other than the rockers? The
specs are:

Duration @ .006" lift        intake 288   exhaust  298
Duration @ .005" lift        intake 214   exhaust  224

Lift @ Cam:  Intake .295"  Exhaust  .310"
Lift @ Valve:  Intake .472"   Exhaust  .496"

Timing at 0.50 lift

                    Open           Close
Intake:         0 ATDC         34 ABDC

Exhaust:       49 BBDC         5 BTDC

Lobe Separation Angle : 112
Intake Centerline           107

Those are my specs, and if I actually do have a '65 425, thats new to
me! I have the 386525A block, but my records cay it could be 65-67,
thats probably just an error though, thanks for the info and let me
know what you think!  The cam is in the car now and has been running
fine for 800 miles. :)

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 08:54:17 -0300
Subject: Summer is here, heater blower motor decided to have vacation

Hi everybody.

Finally it's warm outside. It has been a horribly cold spring.
The summer is at least 2 weeks late.

The heater motor in our Niny decided to take his vacation now.
If I turn the blower switch, nothing happens. It draws some juice
though as the lights dim a little bit. I'll take the motor out and
give it a good look. Perhaps some grease etc..

If anybody knows a donor car that has the heater-AC assembly
intact, I would like to discuss on the methods of shipping it
up to here. Especially the plastic ducts under the dash are of
interest as they are broken. All Oldsmobiles at 1964 had the
same heater/AC assembly.

Bill Culp,
So sorry that I have not contacted You in the motor-business but
our carage situation is currently non-existent and I would not
like to do that job under the blue sky. I really hope that the
engine does not run away while I'm trying to find a suitable
carage to do the job. A carage can be very expensive in Helsinki.

Somebody mentioned about the tranny output axle gasket change
without taking the tranny out. Out tranny is dripping. Would
anybody advice me on this subject.

If somebody is missing the lamp holders under the dash in the
speedo, I have a limited source of those here in finland. The
original lamp holders tend to crack during the lamp replacement.

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: "Larry D. John" <ljohn@cowan.cnz.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:27:57 -0300
Subject:

  unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: sytsma@gzinc.com (Sytsma, Dennis)
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:29:16 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!

Kevin Wong wrote:
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> > parts.  They had gadges hooked up, and said they had compressed air in
> > the system to test it, they had me put my hand on the accumalator to show
> > me it was "hot", they said it should be cold if the compressor was
> > working.  They said that the expansion valve had a obstruction and needed
> > to be replaced along with the compressor.
>
> When an A/C system is disassembled for repairs, it should stay 'open'
> to the atmosphere for as short a time as possible.  Leak testing a system
> with compressed air is an act of sheer negligence/thrift.  Also, air
> does not offer the same pressure/temperature characteristics as R-12, so
> even if the system were _fully_ charged with air, I would not expect the
> accumulator to be cold when the compressor was engaged.  Normally, when a
> system is leak tested, only a small amount of refrigerant is used to
> pressurize the system; this is not sufficient for an A/C system to
> provide any cooling.  They probably used a gas torch to heat up the
> accumulator prior to calling you over, or possibly it was just warm from
> exposure to engine heat.  If there was an obstruction near the
> orifice tube, the high side would see excessively high pressures, but the
> accumulator would still be relatively cool.  Since the system was only
> being leak tested (i.e. not fully charged), their statement is completely
> meaningless and fraudulent in nature.
>
> > Later I added a do it yourself "R-134a convert kit" and 4 pounds of
> > R-134a and the car is Ice Cold!  The convert kit goes for $39.00 retail
> > and R-134a does not require a linsence to use it.  The kit adds some
> > special oil into the system with a pattented fill kit.  Some say the
> > higher pressure of the R-134a system can cause weak parts in old R-12
> > systems to fail when you try to convert.
>
> The higher operating pressures are probably the least of your concerns!
> When you did the conversion, did you flush out all of the existing mineral
> oil?  Changing the accumulator only removes a couple ounces, so there
> would be several more in the compressor, evaporator, and condenser.
> R-134a is not compatible with mineral oil, which was used in your R-12
> system.  R-134a can irritate the eyes, nose and throat, and exposure to
> R-134a has been shown to cause testicular cancer in lab animals.  If the
> special oil in your conversion kit was PAG (poly-alkene glycol), note that
> this lubricant is 100 times more sensitive to moisture as mineral oil, and
> decomposes when exposed to trace amount of chlorine containing things,
> like the aluminum chloride coatings inside an ex-R-12 system like yours.
> To ensure the longevity of your A/C, I'd completely flush everything
> out and use R-12 or R-406a.  Check out http://worldserver.com/R-406A
>
> Kevin Wong
Hi Kevin, Great information!

No I only added the PAG oil with the special injectors that do not
require opening the system. So the old oil is still in there. Last night
at 12:30 am I threw the A/C belt.  When It went, it took off the other
belts. I recommend anyone doing this work carry spare belts and tools
like I did to get home at 1 AM.  I intend to replace the belts and
recheck out the system.  I may have to replace the expansion valve
and/or drain the compresser as you say.  The kit says nothing else is
required except to add the pag oil.

dennis
- --
The Sytsma's,
mailto:Sytsma@Gzinc.com
Ruled by the Zapper,
mailto:ZapperI@Juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:54:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)

> >         The word "Rocket" on the air/cleaner decals was dropped in 1973,
except
> > for, (and I'm 99% sure) the '73, '74 and '75 H/O's were the ONLY ones that
said
> > "Rocket" on them.
>
> >              (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903
>
>   Hey Mark,
> Does your 442 air cleaner have a 455 ROCKET decal on it? By the way did
> you read that article on how to detail a 442 air cleaner in Car Craft
> mag. it was the April '97 issue. If so my air cleaner flap door doesn't
> have a short screw it has some weird thing in place of the screw does
> yours have the weird thing that mine has?(no I am not talking about the
> hinge its the thing above it)
>
>   RS
> '70 442 4-speed
>
>-- End of excerpt from Richard Staley

Richard,
There was NO air cleaner decal on any 1970-'72 Ram-Air car. The
article in Car Craft is WRONG.

The "weird thing" is a pin with a one way push on star washer.

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: hot69w30@webtv.net (david harmon)
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:51:10 -0300
Subject: Right Fender

    I was in need of a fender for my 69 cutlass. Thank to all of you i
found the fender just have to get the check in the mail. I hope you all
have a grate oldsmobile summer.
( thanks Art )
David

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 10:02:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Speakers found at swap meet

Interesting point about those GM 10-ohm speakers I picked up at the
swap meet on Sunday: unlike the old ones I currently have that ground
to the car body thru the metal speaker frame, these new ones have a
separate ground terminal. Grounding them via the speaker frame does not
work, but with a separate ground from the car body to the terminal they
work fine.

I suppose speakers could have been this way for the last 20 years and
I wouldn't know -- one of the hazards of dealing exclusively with the
old stuff! I'd guess the design change is in part due to the extensive
use of plastic and other non-conductive materials in later body designs.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 08:56:41 -0300
Subject: big block doesn't fit

I put the big block in the cutlass this weekend ('71 convertible).  I got
the BB motor mounts and BB frame mounts.  The holes for the motor mounts
are not lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame mounts.  The holes
overlap just enough to stick the tip of a pencil in it.  Is this right?  If
it is, how do I get the bolts through there?

One more thing.  I have an edelbrock torker intake, and the A/C bracket
doesn't mount right on.  The mounting hole is in a different spot on the
intake.  Is there an easy fix.

I am on the digest, so it will help if you e-mail me directly also.
Thanks,
Dave

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 07:30:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup?

I have a 350 that I built up with the Edelbrock Power Package. With
Cam, Lifters Carb and RPM Manifold. I used a safe margine for Redline
is 5500.. I ran a TH350 Trans with shift kit and High Po power
bands,B&M HoleShot 2400 Torque Converter, and 3.73 gears...If You
follow this you will need to order adjustable push rods because stock
can not handle the lift of the Cam...It sounds nice and Idles
nice...I used OLDS 403 Heads that were decked 20thousandths, High
Volume Oil Pump and alot of other goodies.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 07:30:06 -0300
Subject: Re: DMR and Mondello for Olds parts [was Re: Mondello s*cks

I was curious to know if someone could drop me Dick Miller's Address
or number or www site...I have only been told about Mondello and
would like to see more Hi Po Olds Stuff. Sorry if it sounds like I am
living under a rock but I am from the North East where all you
westerns forget...

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 07:30:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello sucks

I know that you guys really don't like Joe Mondello but I will say
that he knows his stuff and gives you the right answer. I have never
had a problem with him at all but now that all you guys are harping
on him I would like to see this DMR catalog How can I get one?

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 11:50:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello sucks

On Tue, 27 May 1997, Rick wrote:

> I know that you guys really don't like Joe Mondello but I will say
> that he knows his stuff and gives you the right answer.

Yeah - he argued with me that a 455 came standard in the '69 442.

He's a senile old fart wgo hasn't developed anything original in years.

Support Dave Smith, or Dick Miller...

- -Rod
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 12:24:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello sucks

At 06:30 AM 5/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I know that you guys really don't like Joe Mondello but I will say
>that he knows his stuff and gives you the right answer. I have never

I'm not saying that Mr. Mondello is a bad guy; I've never personally met or
spoken with him, so I can't judge him fairly one way or the other. He does
carry, all in one place, many of the Olds parts that other people
manufacture, so he is convenient.

I will criticize those who regard everything that Joe Mondello says as
gospel truth, because in my limited experience with putting his advice into
practice, I've found him to be wrong on a few points, and if I had just
followed his advice (as printed in his Tech Manual, which is a good source
for information despite my reservations), I'd have wasted time and parts on
my 403 rebuild.

>had a problem with him at all but now that all you guys are harping
>on him I would like to see this DMR catalog How can I get one?

Again, the DMR catalog lists nearly the same parts as the Mondello catalog
(all those made by places besides Mondello himself, which is more than 90%
of both catalogs), for basically the same prices. The one glaring omission,
in my opinion (because I'll be buying one soon), is a complete rebuild kit
for the 455 with all the "good" pieces. In addition, maybe Dick Miller has
discovered something here, but he only carries single-pattern cams, whereas
conventional wisdom puts more lift and duration on the exhaust side of the
cam for Olds motors.

Now, since I don't have unlimited time and funds, I rely *heavily* upon the
advice and experience of others, but I only trust those who can demonstrate
their claims. So, though Joe Mondello can claim that a dual-pattern cam and
a set of heads ported according to his directions might put out 500hp, I
can't be sure that a single-pattern cam and heads ported by DMR wouldn't put
out 530hp, nad be more streetable.

As far as examples of things that the wisdom of Joe Mondello has been right
and wrong about, I can think of two of each off the top of my head:

Right:

* "Roller timing chains made for Oldsmobiles are notoriously inaccurate, and
thus you should degree in any camshaft that you install." I found this to be
*very* true; the aftermarket true-roller timing set I installed was 4'
retarded, as installed straight up. Had I not taken Mondello's advice, my
engine would have different power characteristics than it does now.

* "Advertised compression ratios of pistons often differ by quite a bit from
the actual compression ratio they produce in an engine". Though I haven't
been cc'ing my parts, the experience and experimentation of Chris Witt, who
measured the size of a variety of combustion chambers, pistons dishes, etc,
and plugged them into the formula for an engine's compression ratio,
demonstrated that factory 10.25:1 pistons actually produced about 9.5:1
compression in production engines. In the beginning of his tech manual,
Mondello has a section of "reader's letters", and though the wording is
convoluted and incomplete, he responds to a letter about TRW "11.0:1"
pistons with an accurate explanation of why those pistons probably don't
produce anything near that compression ratio as they were installed in that
engine. Because of this advice, I will be cc'ing my 455's parts, as soon as
my cousin the vet sends me one of those 60cc "turkey-basters" they use for
giving medicine to cows.

Wrong:

* The figures Joe Mondello tells you in his tech guide for the clearance you
want under the rocker pedestals before you tighten them down, in order to
achieve proper rocker preload, are inaccurate. I found this out when I
double-checked and measured with a dial indicator how much acutal preload
that figure was giving me. Rather than the .035"-.045" clearance, I found
that .028"-.035" of clearance before tightening would give me around .040"
of preload. Now, I wouldn't recommend that everyone out there should try for
.028"-.035" of clearance under the rocker pedestals before tightening, in
order to achieve proper preload, because the actual figure you might need
could quite likely vary, depending on what your valvetrain geometry is like
(this figure worked for my 403, with +.100" pushrods and stock-style
rockers). All I would claim is that the blanket figure Mondello gives needs
to be qualified in actual practice.

* The second bit of wisdom that I question, based on a post to this list
back in its early days, is the value of Mondello's tap-in block restrictors.
As the list member pointed out, a quick scan of the oiling-system diagram
found in most Olds shop manuals will reveal that all these restrictors do is
restrict the oil feed to the *cam* bearings, and they do nothing at all, I
repeat, NOTHING WHATSOEVER, to restrict oil flow to the top end of the
engine. Now, it may be very valuable to keep more oil in the main bearings
(off of which the cam bearings are fed), but the same restriction can be
accomplished by drilling a smaller hole in the cam bearings and installing
them with that hole pointing to the oil feed. In no sense, however, can
those restrictors be called "top end" restrictors; for that, you would need
restricted pushrods. The better solution, that has been offered on this
list, is to let the oil flow to the top, but run an external drain line to
feed the oil flow directly back to the oil pan. This is not a tip you'll
pick up from listening to Joe Mondello, though.

All in all, I suppose that Joe Mondello is like many experts; he has some
good advice, but he is probably a bit too headstrong to learn much new or
change his ways. Until now, there has been no real competition for sellers
of Olds parts, but maybe a bit of competition will be healthy, and Mondello
might begin to innovate a bit more.

What I'd like to see is a well-thought-out, complete oiling-system
modification package, with the right restrictors in the right places, as
well as a good oil pump/pickup/pan combination, oil cooler, etc. Much of
this can be assembled using factory parts (Toronado oil pan, diesel oil
cooler), and just requires a bit of drilling and tapping of fittings and
bending of lines. Back up the package with some empirical data on oil
temperature, oil pressure, volume of oil in the top end, etc., price it
right, and you'd have a winning package.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 11:45:32 -0300
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup?

OL>>From the research I did, after a valve job, the valve stems won't be at
the same OL>height as originially

OL>-greg

>From what I've been told if the rebuild is done correctly the stem
should be the same as stock. This is accomplished by grinding the tips.
A friend of mine had a 350 Olds heads rebuilt several years ago and the
person (a chevy drag racer) had almost all the stems at different
heights. It was a nightmare getting the correct lifter preload and it
didn't run vary good. Even if you have adjustable rockers the stem
height still must be close to stock for correct geometry. If the stem
tip is high and you don't use a longer push rod or if the cams base is
smaller than stock it will cause the rocker tip to be to close to the
edge of the stem or not even on it.


Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 13:00:09 -0300
Subject: 442 Wheels

Hi Folks, I finally went to the Olds Dealer to order my center
console gear shifter handle, It was six different parts the handle
was one (Partª 22525555) then there were two rings a button, spring
and a slide. I figured that I might as well order the whole
sha-bang just in case next time they tell me that the parts have
been discountinued, Anyway when I was done the bill was $48.49 Incl
tax 7%. I thought someone said $19 U.S.

While I was there I ordered a 15x7 442 chrome ralley wheel (Part ª
22528518 ), Cap Asm (22528777) & Retainer (Partª 552294). I had to
break down and bite the bullet and pay the full dealer price for
the wheel $368.00 not including the cap & retainer.

I had one question since my car is a Salon not a 442 I wanted to
use different Caps that just had the Olds emblem on them and not the
442 emblem. Will any 15in. rim cap fit on that wheel ?

Anyway I'm just waiting here for the phone to ring from the dealer
to call and say come pickup the wheel and I need to order three
more...


Peter L House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 14:28:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Convertible top pads

If you mean the convertible top boot pads which are used when the top is down,
I have a fix.

Get some closed cell foam, like an ensolite pad from camping store. Cut
to fit. Use liberal amounts of 3M spray adhesive to glue it to the boot.

Presto. A decent fix. Not Great, but it beats regluing the open cell foam
every three months.

Another alternative, would be to sew a fabric case on the underside boot into
which you could insert (and therefore retain) the foam pads.

Hope this helps
cf

>On Mon, 26 May 1997, hhzimmerman wrote:
>> Dan Williams wrote:
>> > Does anybody here have a good "trick" to keep the convertible top pads
>> > attached to the convertible boot.  They are usually glued on and they
>> > don't stay that way for very long.
>> by "top pads", I'm assuming you're talking about the yellow foam lining
>> of the top boot.  I would try using a can of spray-on weatherstrip
>> adhesive, I beleive 3M makes some- I got a can at the hardware store to
>> use for my headliner, worked fine.
>
>I tried this with the boot on my Skylark. The 3M spray would only hold
>the foam on for a few months -- something to do with "open-cell foam"
>that the pads are made of meant the spray wouldn't work very well. The
>last time I tried it I used liberal amounts of weatherstrip adhesive, but
>I don't know if that worked long-term either and the car is now gone, so
>we'll never know! :)
>
>> > Also, I'm still looking for a bumperjack base and some other misc items
>> > for the jacking equipment.
>
>That can't be too hard to find -- where are those junkyard guys when you
>need them? ;-)
>
>Actually on the '68 there is some sort of bracket that holds the jack
>post down, I think it goes along with a wingnut/stud assembly on the
>floor of the trunk (not the long one that holds the tire down). If you
>find 2, I could use one of those too, since the bracket is missing on mine.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 14:28:34 -0300
Subject: Oil System Mods. (was: Mondello sucks)

In a message dated 97-05-27 11:35:31 EDT, you write:

<< * The second bit of wisdom that I question, based on a post to this list
 back in its early days, is the value of Mondello's tap-in block restrictors.
 As the list member pointed out, a quick scan of the oiling-system diagram
 found in most Olds shop manuals will reveal that all these restrictors do is
 restrict the oil feed to the *cam* bearings, and they do nothing at all, I
 repeat, NOTHING WHATSOEVER, to restrict oil flow to the top end of the
 engine. Now, it may be very valuable to keep more oil in the main bearings
 (off of which the cam bearings are fed), but the same restriction can be
 accomplished by drilling a smaller hole in the cam bearings and installing
 them with that hole pointing to the oil feed. In no sense, however, can
 those restrictors be called "top end" restrictors; for that, you would need
 restricted pushrods. The better solution, that has been offered on this
 list, is to let the oil flow to the top, but run an external drain line to
 feed the oil flow directly back to the oil pan. This is not a tip you'll
 pick up from listening to Joe Mondello, though >>

I liked this idea when I heard it first (from the list, of course!).  I have
been thinking about how I will go about doing this when I get back into my
350 in the next few weeks.  I'm debating on where to put the lines in, how
many, and where to drain back into.  I'll start looking into the block oiling
schematics before doing anything, and then make a decision.  I'd think
there's a good way of doing this that would possible deposit the oil into a
useful place first (such as getting it back onto the crank, or something),
then maybe into the pan.  Gotta do some looking at things, and see where
everything can be run.

That was a great suggestion though.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 14:36:29 -0300
Subject: Re: radio speaker/Indy Olds stuf

Greg- you might wanna try to find a mid 80's GM A body(Ciera, Celebrity, 6000,
Century) to find the 4 x 10's you need. The later A bodies (the ones w/ the
'fastback' rear window like my 90 has 6 x 9's) so you have to look for the
flat back window model A bodies.

We Olds fans have a lot to crow about w/ this years Indy. The Olds V-8's are
the first in 20 years to be normally asperiated(sp). Has anyone seen the
Aurora commericials shown during the Indy?


=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 14:35:27 -0300
Subject: RE: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!

Dennis, where did you get the R-134a convert kit. The is the first I have =
heard of such a kit? Is it holding up OK?



Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____


Later I added a do it yourself "R-134a convert kit" and 4 pounds of
R-134a and the car is Ice Cold!  The convert kit goes for $39.00 retail
and R-134a does not require a linsence to use it.  The kit adds some
special oil into the system with a pattented fill kit.  Some say the
higher pressure of the R-134a system can cause weak parts in old R-12
systems to fail when you try to convert.

Most certified repair stations will be glad to remove your old R-12 since =

it is worth so much money.  Some will convert your R-12 system to R-134a
for $70.00 total, but if it breaks, it is your problem.  $70.00 beats
$600.00 or $1000.00 for a result that the con-artisits will not stand
behind anyway.

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 15:21:07 -0300
Subject: New Conv. Top

Hi All,
I'm looking into replacing my first convertible top in the next couple of
weeks, and I was wondering if there was a good reference manual for this
procedure. I have seen ads for videos on the subject, but the price is
pretty steep (pushing $50.00). Does anyone have a review? Any advice would
be greatly appreciated.

TIA
Ray
70 Cutlass Conv.
70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 15:54:10 -0300
Subject: Re: New Conv. Top

You can find the official factory directions (which aren't real clear IMHO)
in the Fisher Body Manual of your car's year. It's pretty detailed with
some decent diagrams, but I didn't come away saying "Wow, I can do that!".

The book should cost around 20-30 bucks.
cf

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:13:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Indy Olds stuf

On Tue, 27 May 1997, SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:

> We Olds fans have a lot to crow about w/ this years Indy. The Olds V-8's are
> the first in 20 years to be normally asperiated(sp). Has anyone seen the
> Aurora commericials shown during the Indy?

I missed all those, and was only able to catch the last 5 minutes or so
of the Indy 500 festival parade that was shown on TNN Saturday
afternoon. I wish I had known it was on! The little bit I saw had dozens
upon dozens of Olds convertibles taking part -- 70's, 72's, and less
recognizable ones (to me) from earlier years. What a sight!! If only I
had a tape.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:10:57 -0300
Subject: Re: LD Title Transfers?

>On a related note, anyone have any good or bad reports on auto
>transport companies?
>
>Dave Bird
>gannet@cftnet.com
>St. Petersburg, FL
>

Dave,
I recently purchased a car long distance. I contracted the delivery service
with K&J Carriers Inc. out of Dallas Texas. Although they have a web site
(http://kjcarriers.com), I found them through their ad in Hemmings. I would
recommend this company for a contract that did not require a tight
pick-up/delivery schedule. If you would like more details, let me know.

Ray
70 Cutlass Conv.
70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Michael Ciraolo <mike@trendstat.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:18:48 -0300
Subject: Valve Rotators.

Hi,

Does anyone know what valve rotators look like?  I have a set of Ka =
heads for my 74 olds 455 big bock in my boat.  I had the heads reworked =
and the valve spring tops look to small for the valve springs (heavy =
duty springs, they have a inner spring).  Anyway, did they use the wrong =
ones?

Any info would be great!

Mike@trendstat.com

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:45:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Radio Speaker Info

If the factory used 4 X10's in the late model G-bodies, does anyone know
if dealers still stock 'em? Wouldn't be cheap, but I've had a heckuva a
time finding a decent replacement for my dash 4 X 10 in my 66. Two choices
are usually el-cheapo which blows in 10 minutes or expensive, sold-in-pairs-
only speakers which are too deep to fit above my radio.

What's the fix?
cf

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 18:06:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Parts Group

>I was looking through an Original Parts Group catalog for Ch*velle, my
>friend had and I was wondering if anyone new if they had a Cutlass/442
>catalog. I saw an ad for them in Hot Rod, and they list Ch*velle and
>L*Mans. They actually had complete consoles new for about $150. I was
>shocked and was wondering if they had them for Olds. I'll call them
>Tuesday, just wondering if anyone knew off the top of their heads.
>
>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Cutlass "S"

Ch*vy only... One of the guys here used O.P.G and Danchuk to rebuild his
1964 Mal*bu...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 17:03:24 -0300
Subject: Re: WIRING PROBLEMS

Bob
Welcome to the list. The information you seek can be found in the 1966 Chassis
Service Manual. I got mine from Faxon's in San Diego, but others have them
as well. Try to get an original not a reprint, since the wiring diagram you
want is in color. The colors are critical to understanding the wiring. A
companion book and pretty good buy @ $30 or so is the Fisher Body Manual
which teaches all about the window and electric seat systems. Together
these books
will save you big $$ when fixing the Toro.

Do you have a tilt & telescoping steering wheel in your car? If so, your turn
signal switch is a very strange design which lasted one year, but compatible
parts can be found in Caddy's. They're aren't perfect, but work o.k. Let me
know and I can help. If it's not tile&tele, I can't help since I have only
worked on these most complex of columns. I don't understand 'em really, just
know how to replace obviously damaged parts.

A better description of what your car is doing wrong in the electrical area
would help us all help you.
cf


>Dear Sirs,
>
>I recently acquired a 1966 "TORO", and I love it!!  That's
>unusual, because I have always been a sports car dude.  But to my point,
>I am only working part-time (not by choice) and former Aerospace worker,
>so I have not been able to join the CLUB yet, but will as soon as I can
>afford it.
>I can not seem to find a manual for my TORO, and I am having
>electrical problems.  I desperately need a wiring diagram and info on
>taking apart the turn signal switch.  I believe part of my problems are
>located in that area.
>If you can not help me, can you at least point me in the right
>direction?   I would prefer to do this by email, but I do have access to
>the WWW.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Little
>teacher-pf@juno.com

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 17:00:00 -0300
Subject: Holes in my dash!

From: Michael Baugher on 05/27/97 03:00 PM

Hi All.
The previous owner of my 69 Cutlass cut 3-4 inch round holes in the metal
portion of my lower dashboard in
order to install speakers. I need some suggestions on a good way to cover
the holes
in hopes that it will appear original again.  I doubt I'll go to the
extreme of pulling the entire
dash soon, so any recommendations that won't require extreme, wire and
plastic melting heat
(such as welding) will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 17:06:29 -0300
Subject: Electric Seat Question

My 6 way front seat system is acting up a bit and I'm wondering if I can clean
it to fix or need to replace the system that's in there.

What's happening is inconsistent transmission of motion from the motor to the
front (up/down) actuators. The motor is o.k. since the seat goes back/forth
and the rear goes up&down too.

Anybody got a fix?
cf

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 17:53:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup?

hhzimmerman wrote:

> >>From the research I did, after a valve job, the valve stems won't be at
the same height they were > originially.  Since the stock rocker arms aren't
adjustable, the geometry is off.  I got the Comp. cams > roller rocker kit
($200-250? complete with rockers, studs, guide plates, and pushrods).  They
don't require > any machining and bolt right on.  Also, they are cheaper than
Mondello's kits.  Supposedly, they should be > worth more H.P. too.  I highly
recommend them. > > It's too late to change your bolts, unless you feel like
re-checking all your clearences again with > plastigauge, then if their off,
that means re-machining parts and extra $$.  I tried to persuade my machine >
shop to take out the stock main bolts and change them with studs AFTER he had
already put the bottom end > together.  He said he'd have to charge me another
$300 to dissasemble the engine and recheck clearances > afterwards.  I would
just leave your engine alone if it's already put together.

I'm sure I want to go the way of the adjustable rocker but I guess I'm
just procrastenating a little before I actual do it. What I want to
really want to find out is, if I can get away with just replacing the
pushrods with a longer length and keeping the rest of the valve train
stock, but I gather that this is not possible and still maintain correct
valve geometry.

Forget about the rod bolts stuff, I already knew that answer but what
the hech it might help someone out if they were thinking of doing that.
Hey Greg  where did you order the comp. cams kit from?



Robert J. Barry wrote:

> Fernando, you're still clattering? What cam did you have in there? If it's a
> reduced-base circle cam, the stock setup will give you too much clearance.
> It thought we had eliminated that possibility last summer, though?
>

Heh, Robert, this topic sounds familar, doesn't it...? Well I need more
incouragement. So yell if you have to I do want to get this kit but I
need to be really sure..that's all. If you knew how badly I want to get
this car driveable but correctly.

Fernando
'72 442

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª695
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