To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #675


oldsmobile-digest          Thursday, 15 May 1997       Volume 01 : Number 675

Re: '87 Olds 307 V8 PROM
Re: Re[2]: Hot Rod Mower
Re: Upcoming event...
65 98 Disc Brakes
Re: 425 Engine dilemma
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: 71 442 info
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: repost: welder question
THEFT PROTECTION
The Carburetor Works
Re: Any 85 olds 442 owners?
Re: one more porting question
Re: Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?
Radios
Right front fender
Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Re: repost: welder question
Re: 71 442 info
Re: oldmobile questions
engine modifications
Re: Right front fender
Re: NEED PULLEY
Re: Shipping Carriers
Successful Q-Jet rebuild!
Re: Center Caps (Olds)
Re: Successful Q-Jet rebuild!
Re: Spoiler Question?
Re: engine modifications
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: engine modifications
Re: Exhausting possibilities
66 442 conv. 4 sale
'78 Olds 88, misfiring.
Re: Thursday at the Salvage Lot (The ongoing saga...)
Re: Udate: Head Gaskets
Center Consoles (fwd)
RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Oldsmobile Flag For Sale (5/15)
Re: Upcoming event...
Re: 85 442
Re: '78 Olds 88, misfiring.
Re:  Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Maryland: Oldsmobile Centennial Club Show - 7/13/97
Maryland: Centennial Club Cruise Nite - 9/13/97
Re[2]: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Dash Painting
Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
67' 442 rear end questions???
'78 Olds 88, misfiring.
Re: NEED PULLEY
Re:3-groove pulley
Toro parts for sale
Disc brake knuckles for sale
1970 W31 intake for sale
Re: 425 engine dilemma
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: repost: welder question
Driveline Vibration
Rear bumper Help!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:53:47 -0300
Subject: Re: '87 Olds 307 V8 PROM

Steve Ochs wrote:
>
>     I am trying to change the program on the PROM in my '87 Olds 442 (307
> V8).  I finally pulled the stock PROM and tried to read the program from it
> using a Data I/O 2900 PROM burner.  I thought these ECMs used a 2732 or
> 2732A PROM but when I tried to read mine, all I get is a 0 checksum and no
> data.  Any ideas???  I want to raise my TCC speed.  Thanks,

Steve,
How friendly are you with the Data I/O ~factory~ sales manager for your
area?  A few years ago I ran a programming center which used only Data
I/O.  If I remember right, the 2900 is middle of the road unit (feature
wise), the Unisite would be the best choice.  Anyways, the Unisite
could, when setup properly, determine what device was in the socket.  I
think the 2900 can also do this, but I'm not sure (factory SM would
know).  So, check with the factory SM, if the 2900 can't do it, he may
be able to help you (he's gotta have a Unisite himself).

Good luck!
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:18:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Hot Rod Mower

At 08:13 PM 5/14/97 -0300, Josh J. Haviland wrote:
>man oh man, i wish i would have thoulght of this when I was 15 -16 and my
>friends and I built hot rods out of our lawn tractors, we thoulght 31MPH
>out of a tractor was great :), but now I have a real carfor use of the
>emblems :) have some fun with yours!

This reminds me of a person onthe F-body mailing list that lists in his .sig
a "4HP showblower-NOS" He claims to have Nitrous hooked into the little
Briggs and Stratton engine....geez. Must be for those 12 foot snow drifts ;-)

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:32:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Upcoming event...

OL>I'd definitely like to have a get together if we get some people from the
OL>list (if possible).  There's a place right in towards town (about 1/4-1/2
OL>mile in on Rte. 75) that's called "Charley Browns", it's not too bad, just
a OL>local "greasy spoon", that's about the best/closest place in the general
are OL>(it's not too bad a place, really).  Just need to set a time, I'm going
to b OL>up there looking around for/at stuff.

OL>Chris Ruper

I plan on being there. Has a time been set yet?(having a LOT of problems
w/isp might of missed time posting) I wouldn't be able to get up there
till 10:00-10:30 am

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571\
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:40:46 -0300
Subject: 65 98 Disc Brakes

>I've been looking around some of the local yards looking for some front
>disc brakes for my car. What are the opinions on a possible swap? These
>drums really don't cut it, disc brakes are so nice. I'd like to get
>everything from the spindle outward, as long as my stock spindle and the
>donor match up. Also, the booster and dual master cylinder, as well as the
>proportioning valve. I think this would be a somewhat difficult swap, but
>I'd like to attempt it. What are some possible problems? I'd like to get
>big rotors from a Custom Cruiser or soemthing. Any suggestions as to what
>else I should look for? I'm worried about my wheels fitting on the new
>rotors, the spacing of the bolts may not be the same.

I've done this swap on my 66 98. You'll need the everything between the
ball joints for the swap. Different spindles for disc too. Rotors and
calipers from anything up to 1970. In 71 they changed the front suspension
completely. Get an adjustable proportioning valve from Wilwood and mount
under the drivers footwell to the frame. You'll need 15" wheels, your 14"s
won't clear the calipers. And get five of 'em. Don't know if the custom
cruiser rotors would fit, but let me know if you learn they do. Finding
1970 Olds Disc brake rotors is very, very hard. More questions? Let me
know. Oh, I'm using a master cylinder from an '80 Toro with the cool
plastic clear top. Would like to switch to a later Tahoe or Suburban one
since the Toro one is setup for a tilted firewall and leaks like crazy
when you fill it up completely. Hard to explain. Overall impression of
discs is that it was a good swap.
cf

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:39:25 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 Engine dilemma

At 07:37 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
[snip]
>> where I can find a 425 engine which can be repaired.
>
>You can use any 455 block in place of the 425 block.  Just save everything
[snip]
>down a 455 block.  *The only consideration I guess would be having to
>change camshaft and lifters, as these changed from 425 to 455, but that may

This also happens to apply if you get a Toronado 425 engine as a
replacement. All 425's used a block where the angle between the banks of
lifters was 45', except the Toro which had a 39' lifter-bank angle, along
with a larger-diameter lifter. In 1968, Olds introduced their 455, which
standardized the use of the 39' lifter-bank angle, along with the smaller
lifters from the standard 425's. A good reason to use a 455 block, aside
from the fact that it interchanges with the 425 and is much more common, is
that you can use the more common 39' camshafts.

Unless you did something *really* bad to your 425, however (i.e. left it out
in the winter without antifreeze, or ran her up to 8000rpm for a couple of
miles on the interstate), I can't imagine it's completely wasted.

Let us know what your mechanic tells you.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:39:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

At 08:01 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>$50. Price was right. The 650cfm and '76 intake are just a medium term
>upgrade untill such a time as the money thing allows an Edelbrock Grade
>Racing (sorry) manifold. BTW if anyone can say for certain that this combo is
>NOT an improvement over a Rochester 2GC, please speak up.

It should result in a noticeable improvement, as long as you set the choke
up properly. If it is a manual choke, I'd suggest switching it to an
electric choke. Also, you may want to buy a pack of Holley jets, or one of
their "trick kits", for tuning the carb to your motor. That's where you'll
see the real performance gain.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:39:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 442 info

At 04:25 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Do you have an address so  I can mail away for these books? In your
>opinion does a small amount of bondo and two replaced front fenders any
>reason not to fix this car up?

You can find all the relevant addresses, as well as information on the books
available on your car, on the Oldsmobile web site, found at www.442.com.

Oh, and as for whether you should fix up your car, um, no, that bondo has
completely destroyed its value, so it's good only for scrap. Tell ya what,
since you sound like a nice guy, and seem pretty honest, I'll do you a favor
and pay *you* $50 to haul that heap away... ;)

Oh, I only wish my '70 SX had just a "little" bondo. Then maybe those large
rust holes would be less visible... :(
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:39:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

At 05:44 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have looked for the two letter ID that is supposed to be on the passenger
[snip]
>Is this stamped in the axle or a Raised casting?   I have a 1970 Olds

It is stamped, theoretically on the front of the housing, about a foot in,
facing forward on the passenger side. In reality, it could be just about
anywhere. A good suggestion floated about before was spraying the tube with
WD-40, and wiping it with a shop rag. That is assuming, of course, that
you've wire-brushed the loose rust off of the axle tube, and that the
stamped code hasn't corroded away.

>Corey D
>dayc@ix.netcom.com
>
>1970 Cutlass S (455)
>1968 Delta 88 (455 2bbl whoa!)

Ah, did you ever check your car for a forged crank? For some reason, they
were most often found in '68 2-bbl 455's.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:47:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

At 08:46 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> > > It isn't a spreadbore. It's a 650cfm vacuum-secondary carb.
>> > ?????????????????????
>> > What is the list ª of this mystery Holley ? they didnt make a 650 vacum
>> > secondary that I know of.
>If it is a 1850 its  a 600 cfm mechanical choke vacum secondary the 3310 is
>a 750 cfm. VS there is no 650 vacum secondary Holley. The 4777 is a 650
>double pumper mechanical secondary. Sorry to nitpick

Right, 600cfm! Thanks for the correction; I've only dealt with Q-jets and
the 3310 Holley carb. Isn't there also a 650cfm spreadbore Holley, designed
as a Q-jet replacement? Oddly enough, however, it too has mechanical linkage
and dual accelerator-pumps.

An early Q-jet would still be the best carb for this application, though.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:47:41 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

At 07:59 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm with the "buy the best" group: Get a MIG, MIGs are great; I compared
>the Lincoln and the Miller and ESAB; Picked up a Miller which, side by
>side, I think is a better machine than the Lincoln. ESAB was a little

What model Miller are you using? I'll be in the market for a machine soon,
and would like to get specific recommendations. I had been leaning toward
the Lincoln 150, and am wiring my garage specifically to use the 220V
machines.

>I'd like to see some posts on auto welding tricks and problems.

That'd also be appreciated; this will be my first run on a welder since a
vo-tech class back in high-school. Maybe I oughta get a Ch*vy to practice
on... ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:46:48 -0300
Subject: THEFT PROTECTION

OL>I certainly can't stop someone from getting in the car, and it
OL>does't have a locking steering column.

OL>Mike Lowe
OL>'68 442 Convertilble
OL>'72 442 Hardop

If I remember right my '72 442 had a locking steering column. I would
think that this would bolt right into a '68. Anybody know for sure?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:47:34 -0300
Subject: The Carburetor Works

Has anybody heard of The Carburetor Works? I'm thinking about buying a
Rochester from them. Has anybody tried them? Any luck? Their supposed to
fix all the defects and problems on carbs.Thanks.

  RS
'70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:00:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Any 85 olds 442 owners?

At 05:47 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi, this is Dave K. owner of a 1985 olds 442 if anyone else has
>one, or any 442 for that matter feel free to e-mail me.  I am
>particularly interested in seeing other 85's but am looking into
>dropping a 1970 olds 442 w-30 engine in it. I know its a project and it
>would probably just be cheaper buying a 1970 olds, but I hane already
>done a lot of work on my 85 I just want the muscle car engine of 1970.

I think that'd be a great swap, though an engine using more recent
technology would be better suited to your car (the W-30 cam isn't the best
for power, though it's obviously more than your current 307). Do you already
have a W-30 to drop in there? Don't spend extra money just to find one if
you don't; you can make a more powerful engine with virtually any '68-'72
455 as a starting point.

>Right now I still have the original 307-cu-in. V8, 4-barrel carburetor,
>190 hp.  I am looknig for any advice or suggestions anyone might have
>who have some knowledge of engine swapping because I have very little.

The 455 will fit, but you better check if your current, or any anticipated,
emission laws might make your car illegal for the street, before you go
spending $4000 on such a swap.

>I should be able to fit the 455-cu.-in. V8, 4-barrel carburetor with the
>amazing 370hp.  But the transmission would most likely need upgrading as
>well as maybe some wider tires.

Um, yeah, the tranny *might* need an upgrade (that is, if you want to get
beyond the end of your driveway!). A TH350 could definitely be made to live
behind a 455 for about $500; to do that with your TH200-4R would cost triple
that, at least. Plus, you'll need new springs for the front end, to
compensate for the heavier motor. Also, you may find the accessories
interfering with the hood on your car (a 455 is taller); an aftermarket
fiberglass hood with a scoop would provide the necessary clearance, though.

>So anyone who has suggestions or would just like to chat about their
>cars feel free to drop me a line.

Remeber that when you do an engine swap, you're not just upgrading the
engine, but the whole car. Think of the overall package; maybe a well-built
350 or 403 with 350-400hp, that retained all the stock accessories and
computer controls, and theoretically could pass the visual of an emissions
check, would be a better choice than a 400-450hp 455 that required
suspension work, was not registerable and required a major transmission swap.

Just an interesting point of fact to get you thinking: the 325hp 350ci W-31
cars of 1969 were quicker in the quarter mile than the standard 325hp 400ci
442's with the same bodies.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:02:55 -0300
Subject: Re: one more porting question

   Ohhh just a bit o trivia here -- did y'all know that an egg has a lower
drag coefficient with the big end pointing into the wind than the little
end????

                                                       J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:08:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?

   If you can build and detail a model of a 69 Hurst Olds -- then rebuilding
a Quadrajet shouldn't be a problem -- hell ---- if you can build a model --
you can rebuild a Q-jet

              J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:33:28 -0300
Subject: Radios

I finally set up a little testing bench for testing out several old
radios I had.  I borrowed a ac to dc convertor and hooked up a power
antenna to it.  Next I made a set of wires to hook up to the radios.  I
hooked up a crappy AM radio that I got out of a junkyard.  The thing was
in such bad shape, the guy at the yard gave it to me for free.  I
cleaned it up, hooked up the antenna, power (yellow), ground (speaker
and black wire) and a speaker (blue wire).  The Damn thing actually
worked!  The light inside even worked.  Next, I hooked up another old
radio and it worked.  I was 2 for 2.  Then, I hooked up the wonderbar
radio that I wanted to use for my 68 convertible.  It didn't work.  No
sound at all.  Sometimes the speaker will thump when I turn it on,
sometimes it won't.  I did get the wonderbar to work.  Those things are
really cool when they seek.  Anyway, when I let the wonderbar tune to a
station and I crank the volume all the way up, I can actually hear the
station comming out of the radio (not the speaker - It is 15 feet
away).  That seemed pretty strange.  Does anybody have any pointers on
what I can test on this radio?  Also, all the radios have a blue wire
that connects near the base of the tuning knob.  What is this for.  The
radios work without it.  I assumed it was for grounding.  The strange
thing is the blue wire on the back of the radios is used for the speaker
lead.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:31:49 -0300
Subject: Right front fender

I can't seem to find a right front fender w/o rust for a good price,I
know Brothers has one for $1100 but I don't want to pay that much for
one. I have a '70 442 4-speed. Please help I'm desperate!
     Thanks in advance,
  RS
'70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:40:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

Neal28CA@aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can find a 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed?  It must
> be sort of near California.  I live in Santa Cruz.
>
> Thanks,
> Neal

Neal,

These are rare indeed.  You might know that there are no '61 4-speed's
at all.  This feature was used only on the '62-63 cars & very few of
them.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

PS.  I don't know where any are even in AL.

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:43:40 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

- ----------
> From: Robert J. Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: repost: welder question
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 9:47 PM
>
> At 07:59 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >I'm with the "buy the best" group: Get a MIG, MIGs are great; I compared
> >the Lincoln and the Miller and ESAB; Picked up a Miller which, side by
> >side, I think is a better machine than the Lincoln. ESAB was a little
>
> What model Miller are you using? I'll be in the market for a machine
soon,
> and would like to get specific recommendations. I had been leaning toward
> the Lincoln 150, and am wiring my garage specifically to use the 220V
machines.
>
> >I'd like to see some posts on auto welding tricks and problems.
>
> That'd also be appreciated; this will be my first run on a welder since a
> vo-tech class back in high-school. Maybe I oughta get a Ch*vy to practice
> on... ;)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
 As far as price and quality for a home use Mig welder, I purchased a
Century 115 Amp model. Price was $349 with attachments for gas included.
This unit runs on 115 volts @ 25 amps max. It has full fine tuning for heat
and wire speed which is really needed for welding on thin panels, etc. I
use CO2 gas which is a lot cheaper and lasts longer than the argon blend,
and helps reduce the heat warpage.



  Daniel Hall
  cdhall@mci2000.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:58:44 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 442 info

Robert and Susan Colombo wrote:
>
> I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and have
> passed the car to me. It's in good condition and all it really needs is
> some replacement of worn out parts (front end bushings,tires,paint job
> etc). I'm not looking to make it a show car just a really clean 442. I
> guess I'll get to my question. The car has had its shair of bumps and
> grinds. It's had both front fenders replaced and a small amount of bondo
> on the rear quarter panel. Over all it's a  clean car.
>
> How much does bondo reduce the value of the
> car?

All modern cars have bondo in them to repair imperfections.  Bondo to
fill rust holes is not a good idea.  A couple of years & it is all
showing rust & falling out.  The metal must be repaired w/patch panels
after the rust is cut out.  Anything else is just buying a short amount
of time & ruining a good repaint.

> It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do it
> one last
> time.

> I'm just starting to learn about 442's so if I seem fresh I am. I would
> appreciate any info on 1971 442's or places I can find any
> info.          Thanks     71' 442

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:54:05 -0300
Subject: Re: oldmobile questions

Don Sowers wrote:
>
> >
> > Want to begin restoring my three Oldsmobiles soon and have some
> > questions.  Have 1969 Cutlass S conv with 350, 4-spd, posi, a/c need
> > approximate price of guage package and availability and cost of fourth
> > gear syncro.
I have a tach & speedometer for a 4-speed, but no gauges.  The gauges
shouldn't be too hard to get.  '68-69 are the same.

Also wonder what engine is in this vehicle. Original gas
> > cap had notation of "use 100 octane fuel only" on it. What is necessary
> > to get this engine to run on today's anemic fuel with no lead?

I have only seen the factory ones that say "Premium Fuel Only".  I
wouldn't feel that it had to use 100 octane fuel unless you have trouble
w/the 92-93 octane stuff we can get easily.  Try it & see if it pings.

 Third car is 1972 Hurst 442 with sunroof, 455 ramair, a/c,
> > etc. Wondering about the availability of a steel sunroof replacement
> > panel and the H/O luminous gold stripe kit.  Also would like suggestions
> > (related ones only please) on simplest way to proceed on H/O rebuild
> > when it needs both quarters, deck and probably trunk floorpan due to the
> > sunroof leaking moisture into the rear area. Appropriate information and
> > suggestions appreciated. I would also like info on the rarity of these
> > vehicles approximate value. Thank you.

I have an electric sunroof that I had planned on installing in my
toronado, but have changed my mind.  It is the complete roof from a 1969
Hurst Grand Prix.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:50:46 -0300
Subject: engine modifications

I have a W-25 '70 442 4-speed what would it take to make it a W-30?
Thanks in advance,
  RS
'70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:03:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Right front fender

Richard Staley wrote:
>
> I can't seem to find a right front fender w/o rust for a good price,I
> know Brothers has one for $1100 but I don't want to pay that much for
> one. I have a '70 442 4-speed. Please help I'm desperate!
>      Thanks in advance,
>           RS
>         '70 442 4-speed


Call 1-903-346-3496 (Texas) leave a message for Richard Gore. He runs a
junkyard up there and I can't promise you that he will have one, but if
he does, he sells them for a very reasonable price, plus shipping (used,
great condition). He sold me both of my fenders and they really are
great for original equipment.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:08:30 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

At 01:03 AM 5/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm looking for a 3 groove crank pulley off of a 1971 98. The car has A/C.
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Thanks Rick
>yorcoy@aol.com
>

Rick

        I have a 3 groove A/C pulley. I'm asking $15.00 plus shipping. Let
me know if your interested.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:10:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Shipping Carriers

At 08:08 AM 5/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>All,
>
>In the process of putting my 442 back together, I've been
>buying/selling/trading parts to various people around the country.  One
>problem I've come across is shipping sheet metal parts from one place to
>another at a reasonable cost.  By the time it's all over, the  price of the
>shipping can make it unfeasable to buy or sell these parts with a reasonable
>total cost.  Just last month I sent a Cutlass Supreme decklid ~300 mi. which
>I sold to a gentleman for $50.00. After adding in shipping costs (by private
>carrier b/c UPS will not ship anything >~130" by their formula which is
>something like 2X(length) + width + height= ) which were nearly $50.00
>alone, he's into the part almost 2X  of what I wanted for it originally.  In
>short, I'd like to know if anyone has found a more reasonable way to ship
>these parts over the road, by rail, or some other major carrier than UPS.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Hoopingarner
>'70 Olds 442 W-30
>Findlay OH.
>
>
Kevin

        Check with a local trucking firm. I just sent a complete LH Quarter
panel to S. Carolina and it cost $62.00 to ship.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: "Brendan P. Foley" <bfoley@ezl.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:18:46 -0300
Subject: Successful Q-Jet rebuild!

I think my car actually runs better!  I feel a lot better about the that =
thing sitting on top of my intake manifold now.   The only other thing I =
want to mention about my carburetor is that the power piston retainer =
cracked (very brittle)  and fell off during cleaning.   Is its only =
purpose to make re-assembly easier?  I had a heck of a time keeping the =
metering rods lined up while putting the yoke back on.

P.S. did I use the correct terminology?

Brendan P. Foley
71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:17:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Center Caps (Olds)

At 07:02 PM 5/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Yesterday I saw a set of Olds Center Caps on non-Olds-wheels,they looked
>real good. They added a nice detailed look(my wife isn't going to go for
>that line), but they did look real good. I've got a set of American
>Racing 15's on the car now, and as best I can measure without pulling
>the wheel the center looks to be 3.25 inches in Diameter. What will fit
>in there and about what will 4 cost?
>
>Thanks,
>Pat McDermott
>69 Cutlass'S'
>
Pat

        You can go down to your local Olds dealer and buy the rocket emblems
for the SSII's which will fit. The only bad thing is the list price is
steep. I can get them but they are over $14.00 each.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:35:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Successful Q-Jet rebuild!

At 12:18 AM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I think my car actually runs better!  I feel a lot better about the that
thing sitting on top of my intake manifold now.   The only other thing I
want to mention about my carburetor is that the power piston retainer
cracked (very brittle)  and fell off during cleaning.   Is its only purpose
to make re-assembly easier?  I had a heck of a time keeping the metering
rods lined up while putting the yoke back on.
>
>P.S. did I use the correct terminology?
>
>Brendan P. Foley
>71 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
Brendan

        Congrats! Not that hard is it. The power piston retainer is not
going to make a difference. It is actually a retainer for the float assm. As
long as most of it is there it's fine. Now on to bigger and better things.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:58:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Spoiler Question?

MY '69 H/O has two studs, one bolt per side.

On Tue, 13 May 1997, Jim & Tina R. wrote:

> I have a question concerning a spoiler I have. It is IDENTICAL to the NOS
spoiler I put on my 70 442, with the exception that it only has 2 studs on
each side. I purchased it around 1980 and the paint was visibly old at that
time. I would think this was before reproductions. The pedestals are exactly
the same in appearance and construction (solid, not hollow) as my NOS one. The
bolt holes connecting to the spoiler are the same, it's just that there are 2
studs, not 3. Does anyone know where this came from?  I have never seen the
underside of the spoiler on a 69 H/O. Do they have 2 or 3 studs? This has been
driving me nuts for years. Can anyone help? > > Jim Rabideau > 70 W30 > > >
 > >

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:43:18 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

Richard Staley wrote:
>
> I have a W-25 '70 442 4-speed what would it take to make it a W-30?
>         Thanks in advance,
>           RS
>         '70 442 4-speed

To make the engine a W-30 you will need a set of F cast heads. A W-455
factory aluminum intake. A cam of 328 degrees duration on intake and
exhaust with .475 lift on both. 10.5:1 compression ratio and a carb that
is jetted for the cam.

To run this engine with any authority your rear end ratio must be at
least 3.90 or better.

Danny

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 01:10:05 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

> Right, 600cfm! Thanks for the correction; I've only dealt with Q-jets and
> the 3310 Holley carb. Isn't there also a 650cfm spreadbore Holley,
designed
> as a Q-jet replacement? Oddly enough, however, it too has mechanical
linkage
> and dual accelerator-pumps.
>
Holley made at least two versons of the spreadbore. I think they were both
650 but I am not positive. One had the mechanical linkige and two pumps,
this one is very common. They also made a vacum secondary one, I havent
seen many of these.  The ª 6210 comes to mind but I am not sure which one
it is. Does anyone remember the old 950 3 barrel Holley? I havent seen one
of those in years.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 01:11:46 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

theogns wrote:
>
> Richard Staley wrote:
> >
> > I have a W-25 '70 442 4-speed what would it take to make it a W-30?
> >         Thanks in advance,
> >           RS
> >         '70 442 4-speed
>
> To make the engine a W-30 you will need a set of F cast heads. A W-455
> factory aluminum intake. A cam of 328 degrees duration on intake and
> exhaust with .475 lift on both. 10.5:1 compression ratio and a carb that
> is jetted for the cam.
>
> To run this engine with any authority your rear end ratio must be at
> least 3.90 or better.
>
> Danny

Should I change the engine into a W-30 or should I leave it alone? I
don't know if the engine in my car now has matching ª's.

  RS
'70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 04:16:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

- ----------
> From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
>
> >> To answer my own question, its gonna be Super Turbos for this
> >> reason; Super Turbo=$54  Ultra Flow=$154.  Yikes!
>
> >Whow, those prices seem a little high!! I paid $50 each for the 3" Super
> >Turbo's in my Olds and I paid $27 for the 2 1/2" Super Turbo in my long
> >gone Pinto.....
>
> >Who quoted you those prices?????
>
> The local NAPA store.  This is for the aluminized DynoMax SuperTurbo Hemi,
> a 9.75 x 4.25 oval, 2.5" in and out, 20" case length, p/n 17749.
>
> The "non-hemi" version is only 14" case length, and may be cheaper.
>
> Maybe I should drive the 30 miles to Racine, Wisconsin and see if
> Walker has a factory outlet. :-)
>
> -Jeff
> jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
>
> 1970 442  4-Speed
> see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton
>
>
Jeff,

Since you know the part ª that you need I would check Summit racing or
Jegs, they should be able to beat those prices....

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 01:41:06 -0300
Subject: 66 442 conv. 4 sale

I live in Janesville WI and seen a 66 442 convert. for sale in the local
paper. I went and checked it out and the doors, fenders are real solid
the quarters are only rusted behind the wheelwell about 2 inches, the
top is good and the int. is good (dirty though) dk red buckets with auto
on the floor. The engine is complete exept carb.  hasn't ran in 5 years
original 400 with "B" heads, original hubcaps, they are asking 1500.  I
think the shape its in it would be worth about 700. to me,  needing a
complete resto.  maybe its worth more??? If your interested I can get
his Phone ª and more info.
Marty
68 442

------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 03:30:28 -0300
Subject: '78 Olds 88, misfiring.

Lately I've been having problems with my '78 Olds 88 with the 350R
engine.  It's misfiring but I can't tell which cylinder it is.  I have
put a new plug wire on the ª3 cylinder (bad wire), I've cleaned and
regapped the plugs, checked the cap and rotor (new in December when the
edelbrock intake went on), checked the vacuum lines, checked the plug
wires to see if they had spark (hooked a timing light to a spark plug
wire and pulled the trigger), put a new PCV valve and the origional
breather (old PCV was orig. AC-Delco) back on (fram unit melted from the
exhaust leak :P) and cleaned the air cleaner housing (which had oil in
it)..  I believe it's the plug wires still, I changed ª3 after trying to
yank ª3 off when I was checking to see which one was not firing and I
got a good shock (I was wearing a THICK rubber glove on the hand as
well)..  Does anybody else have any ideas?  I'm planning on doing the
rest of the wires sometime this week (I'm very busy, weekends are
usually when I work on the car) and I believe I've almost exhausted all
other possibilities..  the engine has almost 80K on it (original
mileage) so I know it's probably something to do with the wires.

Mike Jones
'78 Olds 88, misfiring & exhaust leak

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 03:43:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Thursday at the Salvage Lot (The ongoing saga...)

If it was a 1981 Delta 88, a 307 5.0 (most probable) then the boltpattern
is 4.5".  If it is a disel or a gas 350, (I know disels exist, while I saw
a 81 350 gas the other day and I don't think they made them with a 350 that
year) then the boltpattern will be just slightly bigger 4.75",  It is not
that the boltpattern is bigger, it is that the wheel mounding bolts are
thicker calling for this change.  Either way, you should easly be able to
convert from one to the other (assuming you will put them on a later model
70's ealry 80's car) by simply replacing the front rotors eith different
ones with the proper boltpattern and possibly as simple as changing the
bolts on the back (don't know about that one).  Check to see first what
difference it would make on your car.  My uncle did this on his 80
CustomCruiser and went to 4.5" from the thicker 4.75" on the from to fit my
old set of wheels with some decent tires.  Hope this helps.

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 03:53:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Udate: Head Gaskets

Oh man.  $234 to change rocker arm gaskets.  About 6 monts ago I purchesed
a good set for about $25 (canadian) from Canadian Tire and did them mysleft
in about 3 hours at leasurley pace on my '81 307 Delta. If I had the right
tools and was a trained techinitian, regardles of how slow I was, one hour
at most.
The car did have A/C and it was a bit tought to get at but I would have had
to work 5 days at my student job to pay for the $200 they stole from you.
I would call around and see how much it would have cost to get them done
elsewhere and if you conclude they riped you off, give them some real hard
time.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 07:04:47 -0300
Subject: Center Consoles (fwd)

Received this directly from a non-list member; can anyone help? Mail any
replies directly to him. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:04:52 -0300
From: don442@oz.sunflower.org
To: AB348@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Center Consoles

Greg,
I'm not a member of the list but Doug Newman gave me your address and said
you might be able to help me.  I am looking for a center console,
preferably gray, for my 86 442 in good condition. (i.e. no cracks, or torn
vinyl)

Thanks in advance

Don
gnturbo@juno.com

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.css.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 07:12:32 -0300
Subject: RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help

The CS-144 on the 90-91 Cadillac Sedan DeVille is 140 amp, I used it to
replace my failed alternator in my 91 Bonneville 3800.  Near perfect
fit.  Pulley needed to be changed, and some love taps with a rubber
mallet.  It is just close to the fuel rail.  Runs quieter and cooler
than the CS130 ever did.

The 91 3800 "C" CS130 and the 91 Cadillac 4.9L V8 CS144 have the same
distance between the mounting ears.  If anyone is interested.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 08:22:57 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile Flag For Sale (5/15)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

Fly your colors with an Oldsmobile Rocket flag!  Approximately 30 x 40
inches.  Rectangular =B3Rocket=B2 design and =B3OLDSMOBILE=B2  printed in b=
right
red on white nylon fabric.  Double stitched hems on all sides and two
brass grommets for mounting on your flag pole.  Like new condition.
$45.00, including shipping to any address in North America.  (5/15/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 08:55:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Upcoming event...

In a message dated 97-05-15 00:27:08 EDT, you write:

<< OL>I'd definitely like to have a get together if we get some people from
the
 OL>list (if possible).  There's a place right in towards town (about 1/4-1/2
 OL>mile in on Rte. 75) that's called "Charley Browns", it's not too bad,
just a
 OL>local "greasy spoon", that's about the best/closest place in the general
are
 OL>(it's not too bad a place, really).  Just need to set a time, I'm going
to b
 OL>up there looking around for/at stuff.

 OL>Chris Ruper

 I plan on being there. Has a time been set yet?(having a LOT of problems
 w/isp might of missed time posting) I wouldn't be able to get up there
 till 10:00-10:30 am

 Daren >>

I'm not sure if a time has been "set", but I spoke (ok, typed at) Dave Brown
last night (I'm sure he'll get the message today) about meeting at 4, which
would be after the event is over.  It sounded like he may have been talking
to another person, but he talked about sending a post to the Olds list
stating what's happening, and when.  I'm not sure how I'm going to work
things, my daughter has baseball pics. at 10:15 that morning, and I'm not
sure if the wife want to go too (I'm guessing she will, though), but I'm
planning on being around for a while if possible, and of course, to get a
chance to meet a few people from the list.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 09:44:42 -0300
Subject: Re: 85 442

Dave- welcome! What color is your 442? I think the correct hp rating for it
is not 190 but 180 or 170 or so. I have a factory 85 Olds hi po brochure in
front of me that has the 442, the Ciera GT and the Firenza GT in one special
layout. It does not give the hp rating but if I remember correctly they were
not rated that high.





=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 09:38:19 -0300
Subject: Re: '78 Olds 88, misfiring.

mjones@dragon.gleep.com wrote:
>
> Lately I've been having problems with my '78 Olds 88 with the 350R
> engine.  It's misfiring but I can't tell which cylinder it is.  I have
> put a new plug wire on the ª3 cylinder (bad wire), I've cleaned and
> regapped the plugs, checked the cap and rotor (new in December when the
> edelbrock intake went on), checked the vacuum lines, checked the plug
> wires to see if they had spark (hooked a timing light to a spark plug
> wire and pulled the trigger), put a new PCV valve and the origional
> breather (old PCV was orig. AC-Delco) back on (fram unit melted from the
> exhaust leak :P) and cleaned the air cleaner housing (which had oil in
> it)..  I believe it's the plug wires still, I changed ª3 after trying to
> yank ª3 off when I was checking to see which one was not firing and I
> got a good shock (I was wearing a THICK rubber glove on the hand as
> well)..  Does anybody else have any ideas?  I'm planning on doing the
> rest of the wires sometime this week (I'm very busy, weekends are
> usually when I work on the car) and I believe I've almost exhausted all
> other possibilities..  the engine has almost 80K on it (original
> mileage) so I know it's probably something to do with the wires.
>
> Mike Jones
> '78 Olds 88, misfiring & exhaust leak

Mike, check a few things here,

You could check the wires for resistance, but as cheap as they are, it
may be wise to invest in a complete set and a maybe a new cap/rotor if
it wasn't a quality cap/rotor. I've tried cheap store brand cap/rotors
and they carbon arced like a big dog only after a short time.  I will
assume you are using a quality piece, so you may just need to check
inside for carbon lines.

Speaking of the distributor, I believe you have the vacuum operated HEI
which then you could check the vacuum canister for operation.  Hook a
vacuum source to it when the engine is running and with your timing
light in operation, see if timing changes when vacuum on and off. (or
raise engine speed a bit if you have ported vacuum, keep an eye on the
timing and have someone disconnect it to see if timing changes.  It also
could be a bad control module in the distributor itself.  I've seen this
before where sometimes they start misfiring before it finally just flat
quits.  They seem to only go out completely only when you are on a dark,
deserted area, 100 miles from nowhere, though.

Recheck the torque on the intake bolts, the carb bolts, and (I believe
the small Olds Edelbrock has the EGR) the EGR bolts.  Aluminum has a
different expansion rate than steel or cast iron, sometimes the bolts
work loose, and this could be causing a vacuum leak/leanout condition.
About the EGR- If the EGR valve is stuck open, diaphragm busted, control
vacuum is on all the time, or at the wrong time, this could cause a
problem similar to what you described. Try disconnecting and plugging
the EGR vacuum signal, and see how it reacts.

And try to get that darn exhaust leak fixed.  I know it's a pain, but
that can cause a slight leaning of that bank, which could cause you some
problems.

Good luck.  I'm sure other people on the list will have many more
suggestions.

My 2 cents.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:05:42 -0300
Subject: Re:  Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

Excuse me for being ignorant about the early F-85s, but don't they share
the transaxle set-up used in the Tempest series?  I was under the
impression that B-O-P all used the same parts in that body with the
exception of engines.  If I am correct, you should be able to find a
donor parts car at the very least.  There were quite a few Tempest 4
speeds of that era running around when I was in high school.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:35:12 -0300
Subject: Maryland: Oldsmobile Centennial Club Show - 7/13/97

Sunday July 13
Oldsmobile Centennial Club 1st Annual Show @ Ernie Swanson Oldsmobile, 410
North Crain Highway, Glen Burnie, MD.  Registration starts @ 10am, show
from 11am-3pm.  All Oldsmobiles Welcome. $5 registration includes dash
plaque and goodie bag. Please pre-reg by July 9.  Non-judging show, but
there will be special awards given.  50/50 drawing and door prizes.

Info: Brad Nicholson @ (410) 256-0381
e-mail: brad442@erols.com.
Web site: www.erols.com/brad442/occhome.html.
(occhome.html will be up Saturday Morn. - will have a printable reg. form)
===========================================================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/OCAHome.html


------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:35:21 -0300
Subject: Maryland: Centennial Club Cruise Nite - 9/13/97

September 13, 1997 - 1st ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hosted by the Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Future OCA Chapter). At The Big M
Restaurant/Drive-In Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD (Between
Bel Air & Aberdeen, MD. 5 miles west of I-95) All years and condition
Oldsmobiles welcome, daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free goodie bag
to each Oldsmobile through the gate. Open to the public. Other vehicles
welcome to cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 drawing. FREE !

Info: Brad Nicholson @ (410) 256-0381 or The Big M @ (410) 734-4370.
e-mail: brad442@erols.com.
Web site: www.erols.com/brad442/occhome.html.
(occhome.html will be up Saturday Morn.)

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:33:29 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

Excuse me for being ignorant about the early F-85s, but don't they share the
transaxle set-up used in the Tempest series?

          Nope.  We've touched on this thread in the past, so I
          apologize for any repetition, but the early Cutlass,
          Special, Tempest, and Corvair all shared the same body
          shell, but used very different drivetrains.  The Corvair
          obviously used the rear engine and transaxle.  The Tempest
          used a front engine, but an adaptation of the Corvair
          transaxle.  The Buick and Olds versions both used
          conventional front engine/trans and live axle designs.

          PS:  The cc:Mail spellchecker just came up with
          "transsexual" as an alternative for "transaxle"

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:51:10 -0300
Subject: Dash Painting

Hi Gang,

I'm having a rusty section of metal replaced around the windshield of my
1968 442 convertible.  What is the correct gloss level for the portion
directly below the windshield?  Is the gloss level different for the
vertical portion of the dash?  Should the white stripes be tape or painted
on (the ones on it look like tape).

On a similar note, does anyone have any suggestions for how to keep the keys
hanging from the ignition switch (in the dash on the '68s) from scratching
up the dash?  I've been using a soft leather fob with only the ignition key
for my hardtop '68 442, but it would be nice to have both keys on the same
fob.


Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:57:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

At 03:40 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> Does anyone know where I can find a 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed?  It
must >> be sort of near California.  I live in Santa Cruz. > >These are rare
indeed.  You might know that there are no '61 4-speed's >at all.  This feature
was used only on the '62-63 cars & very few of >them.

Well, it just so happens that our daily paper, which *never* has any classic
Oldsmobiles, just so happens to have listed just such a car today:

OLDSMOBILE: 1962 Cutlass, V8 4 speed, '62 Cutlass Convertible, Needs
restoration. (401) 728-2915


I don't know the guy; it just showed up in the paper. I'm also not sure if
that would be one or two cars. This is in Rhode Island, however, a bit away
from you (!).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Markintime@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:16:12 -0300
Subject: 67' 442 rear end questions???

I'm trying to identify whether or not the rear end in my 67' 442 is a posi
unit or not and what ratio it is. According to my factory assembly manual the
code number should be stamped on the back of the right hand axle tube
adjacent to the rear cover.  I can not locate this code anywhere. So my
questions are as follows:
1. Where is the i.d. code on this rear end?
2. If the code can not be found, how can I determine the ratio and whether or
not the unit is a posi/ limited slip, without removing the cover?
3. It the rear is not a posi, what's involved to make it so?

By the way, the rear end has a twelve bolt cover.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Markintime@aol.com
67' 442

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 10:27:32 -0300
Subject: '78 Olds 88, misfiring.

When does it miss fire? idle cruise acceleration or all the time? Check
to see what the plugs look like.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 12:57:29 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

I'm interested if it's of a 71 98

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 06:29:00 -0300
Subject: Re:3-groove pulley

Will the person looking for the 3-groove crank pulley please email me?
I have a 3-groove pulley from a '69 Toro 455 with A/C, which I believe
will fit your application.  Send me a part ª  (r_mullen@merck.com).

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 06:37:00 -0300
Subject: Toro parts for sale

I have two sets of Toro exhaust manifolds, distributors, intake
manifold, water pumps, assorted engine mounting brackets, accessory
brackets and what not after salvaging two '69 Toronado engines.  Anyone
interested please contact me directly (r_mullen@merck.com)
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 06:33:00 -0300
Subject: Disc brake knuckles for sale

I am interested in selling the disc brake knuckles from my '70 442.
This is an Oklahoma car, so the knuckles (esp. the stone shields) are in
great shape.  Cost is $100 and I'll pay the $20 it'll cost to ship them.
 Email me privately at r_mullen@merck.com
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 06:41:00 -0300
Subject: 1970 W31 intake for sale

I have a 1970 W31 aluminum intake for sale. $375, I'll pay for shipping.
 The intake had some modification in the carb mounting area.  Some joker
modified it to take a two bbl. carb.  These mods are not visible with a
Qjet installed, and I ran the intake for several years with strong
performance from it.  Other than that, it is in good shape.  Email me
privately at r_mullen@merck.com
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 06:49:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 engine dilemma

A subscriber named Laura wrote in asking about a divorced choke for a
425.  I believe a '69 Toronado engine I have has this style of choke
coil on it.  Can someone please confirm if they are the same?.  If they
are Laura, and you need the choke, it's yours free of charge.  Can't
have you giving up on your Olds due to lack of parts!  Also, if you are
near Phila. Pa., I have a spare 455 block.
Scott Mullen
r_mullen@merck.com

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 13:56:18 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

ROTFLOL!!!  That's the funniest thing I've read all week! :)

I found a broken neon sign behind a building once.  I should have snagged
that transformer ;)  Could have had some real fun with that baby.

Hey wait...  Does that mean that if someone struck a telephone pole and the
high power wires came down on the hood of the car, that anyone could come
up to the car and open the door without getting shocked?  Man!  All that
crap they taught us in 5th grade was a lie!

> OK, first, it's required to park the car over a large water puddle.
Next,
> in addition to the MSD Blaster coil under the hood (with one lead
grounded
> to the firewall, and the other attached to a metal "wisker" hanging down
to
> the ground) We'll need to add some form of high quality neon transformer
to
> the same system.  There should be a radar (perimeter) sensor installed
> inside the car.  When triggerred, it activates a thirty second timer that
> fires the neon transformer.  It also sounds the horn for a moment.  Also,
> there are at least eight highly sensitive shock sensors attached at
various
> points on the body.  Of course, they are set on full sensitivity.  Each,
or
> any, of these will trigger the secondary alarm -- The 60+Kv coil.  i.e.,
> when the theif touches the car, he gets a really nasty zap, and is kept
> frying by the 10KV Neon power supply.  To make sure things are fully
secure,
> the car should be painted with a high metal flake content paint, to cover
> any fiberglass panels.  Of course, each vandalism attempt will don a new
> custom graphic in the paint job, so if you advertise the stereo system
well
> (like the Rockit's windows:) and park in known-dangerous spots, ~and~
pick a
> really cool color, like a midnight blue or something, within a month, you
> should have a really wild graphics scheme going on.  Lightning graphics
> ~never~ came so easily :)
>
> Oh, you might want to add a few Megafarads worth of capacitors to the
> system, too, just in case....
>
> Make sure the license plates and all ID tags are unreadable, just to save
> liability, and make sure you have a pager attached to notify you of each
new
> attack, so you can move the vehicle before authorities arrive :)
>
>
> Oh, all right, back to reality, eh?
>
>
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>              500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>              Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>      "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
>                     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
>

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 14:17:11 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

On Wed, 14 May 1997, Robert J. Barry wrote:

>
> That'd also be appreciated; this will be my first run on a welder since a
> vo-tech class back in high-school. Maybe I oughta get a Ch*vy to practice
> on... ;)

I've been practicing on a '78 bl*zer from PA.   lots & lots of practice

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 14:31:53 -0300
Subject: Driveline Vibration

Oldmopeople,
I'm getting a weird vibration in what may be the driveline at about 50-65
mph. Very disconcerting. I think it might be the driveshaft, tranny or a
wheel out of balance.

Do you have any advice about what order I should eliminate the candidates?

I was thinking about rotating and balancing the wheels this weekend,
then check the tranny, then the driveshaft

Are there any other candidate parts which might generate unpleasant
vibrations only between 50-65 mph? It seems to happen only when the
motor is pushing the car, when I shift out of drive and let it coast
at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.

Ideas?

TIA
cf

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 14:44:48 -0300
Subject: Rear bumper Help!

Help - Anybody live near Amarillo, Texas?  I have located a salvage yard
(Cherry Ave Auto Parts) that says they have a nice rear bumper for my
'63 Starfire.  Problem is they don't ship.  And the bumper is only
$40-50$.  These bumpers are hard to find.  I would be glad to pay
someone to see it and ship it for me.  Thanks

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª675
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