To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #668


oldsmobile-digest          Saturday, 10 May 1997       Volume 01 : Number 668

RE: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!
Body welds
Stripped Alt Adjust'g Bolt
Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut
Re: Saved From Demolition Derby
Re: 69 Delta 455
re:Exhaust_system
Re: Body welds
insurance
Re: FS: '87 442 $12K, 2300miles
Re: Exhausting possibilities
Re: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!
Re: Saved From Demolition Derby
64-65 Cutlass
Re: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.
New Mail Address, again
subscribe oldsmobile
Re: G-body interior chrome
Re: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!
Re: insurance
Re: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!
Got the chrome SSIII's :)
Re: Celebrity Olds
Brzilian Member's Question
Re: Body welds
How to read a Micrometer?
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Re: How to read a Micrometer?
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?
Re: How to read a Micrometer?
83-88 G Body  New Factory Dual Exhaust for sale $255
"MY 1987 CUTLASS CIERRA S.L.
'71W30 trunklid stripes?
Re: '71W30 trunklid stripes?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 16:45:23 -0300
Subject: RE: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!

the body shop should fix EVERYTHING to the condition it was before the
accident  (including clean the seats)   if the manager will not take care
of it she should call the owner   if he is indifferent    go back to the
manager and make a scene in front of as many potential customers as
possible (almost sure to get results)   if all else fails take lots of
good pictures, file a claim (probably small-claims) and be prepared to
fight for every penny she deserves    it probably wont come to the last,
but sometimes people just wont stand behind their work   if (probably
when) they decide to fix the car  she should of course inspect it
thoroughly (maybe bring a freind too) before she takes it the second time



> A co-worker of mine drives a 1995 Cutlass Supreme and was unfortunately hit
> on the driver's side along the rear of the door and onto the rear quarter.
> Nothing extremely major, one of those 15mph things that wound up costing
> (the other j*rk's insurance company) around $3300. She took it to a local
> Olds dealership here in Cleveland where she purchased it. The dealer (which
> has its own bodyshop) assured her in no uncertain terms that they'd return
> the 7,000-mile car to new or better, no problem. She went to them before
> receiving an estimate from the J*rk's insurance company. The Olds dealer's
> estimate was around $200 less then the insurance cut her a check for.
> Welp, she goes to pick up the car (at night, in the rain - mistake) and
> they didn't pull the car inside to show her the work. First the manager
> sez, that the bill had been revised and now equals the amount of the
> insurance check (to the penny!) Next, (after beefy cop-boyfriend gives
> manager the whatfor) she drives car home (2-3 miles) and discovers the turn
> signals don't work, neither do the PDLs. The interior molding around the
> rear window shows a 2" gap, and the bozos got grease all over the gray
> leather seats. Of course, when she returned the car, the manager asks if
> these problems existed BEFORE she got hit (typical car
> salesman-d*cknose-to-young-woman-customer thing to say) She said no, it has
> only 7,000 miles on it, why would these things go bad? So manager promises
> to "look into it" and call back today.
>
> My question/point here: Does anyone knoe how she can get in touch with an
> Olds Dealer District Office or something of that nature. Seems I remember a
> neighbor really kicked up a storm over a poor paint job and finally got
> results when she took it to a higher level.
>
> I'd appreciate any help or advise. Why do dealers continue to screw
> themselves out of YEARS of business by passing off shoddy work and then
> playing dumb? It is unbelievable that providing services as promised is a
> dying practice here in the 90s. You don't need an MBA to figure out that
> you''ll make $$ and keep customers if you do what your going to say, why
> are there so many cranial/anal inverts who run businesses that can't figure
> it out. It sad to know that this is an OLDS dealer as well.
>
> Thanks
> (only rented the soapbox for an hour, so I'm done)
>
> P.S. for you NE Ohioans, aviod EARL OLDSMOBILE (11300 Brookpark Rd.
> 216-433-7100) like you would a Dennis Rodman Daycare Center
>
>
> Paul Fikaris
> fikaris@en.com
> '69 Delta 88 Conv 455
>
>
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------------------------------

From: Panman638@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 17:04:39 -0300
Subject: Body welds

I need to know what type of wels i need to replace the rear quarter panel. I
do not want somebody to give me the runaround and talk me into a weld that
will not last or promote rust. If it makes any difference i live in Northern
Illinois.




                                                                       Thanks
Jim

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 19:41:17 -0300
Subject: Stripped Alt Adjust'g Bolt

Mike Lowe wrote regarding stripped alternator adjusting bolt "..you can
continue to turn it endlessly."
I had the same problem many times and through-bolted the ear with a
longer bolt and back up nut: But I was never happy with this. Recently I
faced the same problem, but this time I put a "heli-coil" in my 80 amp
alternator-It may not be OEM any more but it's better than OEM as far as
I'm concerned. Besides, better the alternator I know than most of the
"completly rebuilt" units I've obtained in the past.

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:39:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut

At 09:59 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>OL> A friend of
>OL>mine changed his Ranger's filter a few years ago.  Of course it's only a
>matter of OL>intelligence to ~check~
>OL>for leaks, but I guess he was severely lacking that day.
>
>Ford - intelligence Is it possible for these words to actually go
>together?
>

Of course it is.  Here's another example.  Had a f*rd, but then had a spark
of intelligence, sold it, and bought an Olds :)

See?  Told ya!  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:39:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Saved From Demolition Derby

>
>Well, you have my whole-hearted support. I get the same reaction when I
>bring home "strays", but c'mon, $200 for a whole car? Ask your neighbor how
>much they want for a brake job on her Honda, or what kind of monthly
>payments the guy down the street is making on that "RAV4" he bought his
kid... > >Sometimes spouses just need to put things into perspective (after
all, you >could easily spend that much money on a night out on the town; and
just >think, when you're working on this car, your wife will know *exactly*
where >you are! ;)

Careful, there, cuz they might come back with "that's a night on the town
for ~both~ of us..."  Which could lead to "you know, you never take me
anywhere..."

Dangerous stuff :)

Call it family planning.  "It's gonna be our daughter's car, honey.  We
don't want to have to shell out $20000 for a new car for her sixteenth
birthday, do we?"  If you don't have kids, most women would feel pretty good
that you're making ~family~ plans :)



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:34:32 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Delta 455

At 08:16 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have a friend at work who has a 69 Delta 88 4 Dr 455.  His grandma
>bought it new, sold it to his mom, then to him, and now it just sits
>rusting.  He thinks it has a blown head gasket now.  What sort of
>performance value would this engine be?  What heads should be on it?  He
>thinks it is a 4 BBL, but not sure.  It always ran for him.
>
>I may be able to get the car cheap and want to make sure it is worth it,
>it has sat for 5 years already.
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme 307 "Y"
>
>
The engine core parts have value, if they're good.  A '69 could have a pair
of the good heads, from the Olds alphabet soup head group.  That car should
provide a good tranny core too, plus a lot to 'part out' if you go that route.

Buy it for a buck and a half and retire.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 19:04:53 -0300
Subject: re:Exhaust_system

Jeff,

GSCA sells both a 2 1/2" and a 3" exhaust system for Skylarks of any year.
It is possible the only thing you would need to modify for your Olds is at
the exhaust manifold. These are aluminized dual exhaust systems that are
mandrel-bent and include all the hangers, clamps, reducer bits 'n pieces
needed to do the job. The 2 1/2" system is $239.

The GSCA in Valdosta GA is a club for Buick speed fanatics with GSs and GNs.
An extremely high proportion of owners bracket race and continue to beef up
their cars far beyond factory performance. The GS Nationals is not just a
car show, it is a race program as well.

I can recommend the club, and if you want TH400 or 200-4R transmissions, the
Buick vendors are a good choice (they can handle 700 HP plus).

Buicks and Olds A-bodies and G-bodies share a lot of similarities and as the
owner of a 72 GS455 and a 67 Cutlass, I participate in clubs for both. Here
is Dennis Manner's (retired GM engineer) view from the recent GSCA magazine.

  "Synthetic oils were developed primarily for extreme cold operation to aid
   cold cranking and oil flow in military vehicles. Synthetics also have
   some benefit to prevent 'oil coking' in turbocharger oil passages."

  "Since they have similar additives to other oils and they get dirty at the
   same rate, they are not long life. They should be changed at the same
   recommended intervals."

In those two paragraphs, he managed to distill more sound advice on
synthetics than all the long-winded articles I've read elsewhere.

You can contact GSCA at 912-244-0577

Dal

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 20:43:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Body welds

At 05:04 PM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I need to know what type of wels i need to replace the rear quarter panel. I
>do not want somebody to give me the runaround and talk me into a weld that
>will not last or promote rust. If it makes any difference i live in Northern
>Illinois.
>
>
>
>
>                                                                       Thanks
>Jim
>

Jim

        I've replaced quarters with factory quarters and the ONLY way to do
it right is to spot weld them back like they were originally. Make sure you
use liberal doses of seam sealer where you have any panels meeting others.
You may want to consider painting ALL inside areas of the panel before it's
mounted and you will only lose the paint where the spot welds are. Do this
especially if the car is a daily driver type or sits outside at all. You can
hide the paint in the trunk with trunk spackle paint after.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: jim helle <helle@dbeach.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 20:58:17 -0300
Subject: insurance

In about 3 weeks(should my body shop co-operate) I should have mama's 72
convertible on the road. State Farm quoted me $600 a year on the other
guy only, none on the cutlass. Does anyone know if collector car
insurance is cheaper and who would be the best to deal with?

Jim Helle

------------------------------

From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 20:56:12 -0300
Subject: Re: FS: '87 442 $12K, 2300miles

Frank Iezzi wrote:

>Hello all,
>A local car wholesaler has the following for sale.  I don't know him and
>don't make anything from the sale, yada, yada, yada:
>1987 442 - loaded,
>EXCEPT T-tops,
>gray inside/out,
>yes 2300 miles - $12,000 firm
>Car is in central Ohio
>E-mail me privately at fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us for more info
>OR call RICH @ 1-800-344-7629 (serious inquiries only) to set up an appt

AHHHH!  Must~Fight~Urge!  No garage space for another one...:-)

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 21:26:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

Jeff E.,
You sound pretty bummed out about your exhaust system woes.  I have a
'70 442 4-spd, with factory exhaust manifolds.  My car currently has
2.25 head pipes, Sonic Turbo El Cheapo mufflers and 2.0 tailpipes with
stock trumpets.  I've been thinking about an exhaust upgrade for some
time.  Fortunately, the King And Queen place mentioned earlier is about
15 miles from my house, so I may give them my business.

I plan on running 2.5 inch head pipes with an x-style cross-over.  The
cross over will probably have to be ordered from the company(s) listed
in the Pontiac magazine article I referred to a while back.  Anyhow,
next will come 2.5" in/out Flowmasters or Dynomax (the article I'm
referring to has decible (or decibel?) ratings for several mufflers, as
well as performance figures) mufflers, with 2.5" tailpipes.  I'm going
to have the very end of the tail pipes reduced from 2.5 to 2.0" to take
my stock trumpets.  Remember that the exhaust gases are cooler/denser by
the time they get all the way to the end of the tailpipes, so a
reduction for the sake of the trumpets will not hurt anything.  I
believe that Car Craft or similar magazines list places that will
provide prebent tailpipes in 2.5".  You could order everything but the
head pipes, and have these bent by the local garage.  The headpipes
would be the easiest part of the system for someone to bend, so you
would not have to locate a Picasso to handle the fabricating.  Email me
privately (r_mullen@merck.com) with a fax number and I'll send you a
copy of the article on exhaust systems.  I highly recommend reading it
before you open your wallet!
Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:22:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!

Paul L. Fikaris wrote:

> My question/point here: Does anyone knoe how she can get in touch with an
> Olds Dealer District Office or something of that nature. Seems I remember a
> neighbor really kicked up a storm over a poor paint job and finally got
> results when she took it to a higher level.

Paul

My recommendation would be for your friend to call 1-800-442-OLDS.  That
should get her through to Customer Assistance and they will probably
open a case on the matter.

Paul Hartlieb

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:29:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Saved From Demolition Derby

Tony Waldner wrote:
> Now I have a extra car and a pissed wife!

Oh, she'll come around after a while.  Tell her I think her hair looks
extemely nice today!

> This is a wase of bandwidth I know...,  but I figure if I show my wife a
> few of your posts,  she might have a better understanding for the love of
> these cars and the difficulty locating parts.  Especially since this one
> "fell into my hands"

Please, folks, let's a brief moment of silence in honor of this man who
has so bravely saved one of out brethren from a fate worse than death.
Remember the OCA motto: and Olds in any condition is better than an Olds
in the junkyard (or in this case, the demo derby.

Mrs, Waldner, your husband has done a great service and should be
commended.  Go easy on him.  You'll be glad one day when he needs a
spare part off that car, that's already paid for, instead of going out
and spending big $$$ to get it somewhere else!

Paul Hartlieb
whose glad he's been able to avoid marriage so far...

------------------------------

From: Mike Lowe <mlowe@pop.erols.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:49:07 -0300
Subject: 64-65 Cutlass

Saw a picture in a Year One "Restoration Review" I got today captioned "1st
generation 442s are more popular than ever..." .  It reminded me that I saw
a 65 Cutlass the other day that the owner claimed weighed 3150 pounds.  Is
this correct?  Wouldn't this make these potentially the fastest 442s?

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:45:10 -0300
Subject: Re: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.

idon't believe my carb has adjustable apt valve

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:50:39 -0300
Subject: New Mail Address, again

All,

Some of you may be interested in the fact that I changed my ISP again.
Hopefully this will be my permanent home for a while.  For those of you
that have my mail address on file, the news address is:

plh@nbn.net

I've already switched the addresses for the list, but will maintain the
account for about a week in case any mail comes in.

Paul

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Fernando Sorace Korkievicz <fkorki@www.kanopus.com.br>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:19:18 -0300
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

I have one Olds F-85 1962 for about 14 years, but here in Brasil is very
difficult to find parts for this model, because it was imported a few
cars. My car, since I bought, dont have a heart of a Olds, his engine
was GM 6-cilinder, wich I take off the car and sold years ago.
Today I want to find here a V-8 wich could use in my car, and I until
have a FORD V-8 292, wich I wanted use because, here, we have parts
easily for this model.
Which cars used the same engine and transmition that I can use and can't
lost the originality ??

Thanks for all, and excuse for my English.

FKORKI

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 01:08:59 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body interior chrome

At 09:55 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have found something you and maybe others will be very
>interested in.  It is a metalized  mylar  tape. This stuff is like the=20
>mylar they use in the balloons. It is chrome, 2" wide, and is sticky
>back. We use it where I work to cover seams in sound foam  and I have
>been planning on redoing all the interior chrome on my '75 H/O when I get
>to the interior. I just contacted the company which we buy it from and
>they can sell single rolls on a limited basis, they are:
>
>Polymer Technologies
>420 Corporate Blvd.
>Newark, DE. 19702
>Phone (302) 738-9001
>Fax (302) 738-9085
>
>It is Metalized Tape  ªPPT-200MP=20
>it comes in a 72 yard roll 2" wide about .005 thick sticky back
>a single roll is $32.95
>
>Good luck
>
>Ken Nelson
>Kennelson5@juno.com
>
>
>
>On Mon, 5 May 1997 11:52:47 -0300 MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net> writes:
>>I was cleaning up my 85 442 the other day, and while I was in the back
>>seat, to my horror, I saw the chrome coming off both rear side panel
>>cloth insert trim.  I took one piece out, and took the trim off.  It=20
>>had
>>to be gently pried off, due to it being heat-stamped/glued to the=20
>>velour
>>insert.  The trim is still in excellent shape, except for what it=20
>>looks
>>like the mylar/chrome is shedding off.  My question of need is, how=20
>>can
>>I get these pieces re-chromed?  The trim is of a flexible-type=20
>>plastic,
>>and I don't think standard plastic re-chroming would work.  I figure=20
>>I'm
>>not the only one that has run into this, since the interior doesn't=20
>>see
>>the sun very often, and hasn't in over 10 years.  The rest of the
>>interior remains mint.  ANY IDEAS??????
>>
>>Mike Rothe
>>
>>
>
>
There is a product around that rivals that 'good for all reasons' duct tape,
and it is called, I think, 600 mile per hour tape.  It was developed to
patch, temporarily, battle damage on high speed aircraft.  Self adhesive,
and would stay on up to 600MPH.  It has a chrome plate look and could be
used to recover small bad areas on plastic chrome.  The downside is I have
no idea where to get it.  The roll I have was brought back, from Vietnam, by
a Huey mech. in his tool box.  So it is 30 years old and still works good.
It has a more metal like base, than plastic.  While this isn't worth 2=A2,=
 it
might be good if you can find it.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 01:09:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!

At 11:17 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>A co-worker of mine drives a 1995 Cutlass Supreme and was unfortunately hit
>on the driver's side along the rear of the door and onto the rear quarter.
>Nothing extremely major, one of those 15mph things that wound up costing
>(the other j*rk's insurance company) around $3300. She took it to a local
>Olds dealership here in Cleveland where she purchased it. The dealer (which
>has its own bodyshop) assured her in no uncertain terms that they'd return
>the 7,000-mile car to new or better, no problem. She went to them before
>receiving an estimate from the J*rk's insurance company. The Olds dealer's
>estimate was around $200 less then the insurance cut her a check for.
>Welp, she goes to pick up the car (at night, in the rain - mistake) and
>they didn't pull the car inside to show her the work. First the manager
>sez, that the bill had been revised and now equals the amount of the
>insurance check (to the penny!) Next, (after beefy cop-boyfriend gives
>manager the whatfor) she drives car home (2-3 miles) and discovers the turn
>signals don't work, neither do the PDLs. The interior molding around the
>rear window shows a 2" gap, and the bozos got grease all over the gray
>leather seats. Of course, when she returned the car, the manager asks if
>these problems existed BEFORE she got hit (typical car
>salesman-d*cknose-to-young-woman-customer thing to say) She said no, it has
>only 7,000 miles on it, why would these things go bad? So manager promises
>to "look into it" and call back today.
>
>My question/point here: Does anyone knoe how she can get in touch with an
>Olds Dealer District Office or something of that nature. Seems I remember a
>neighbor really kicked up a storm over a poor paint job and finally got
>results when she took it to a higher level.
>
>I'd appreciate any help or advise. Why do dealers continue to screw
>themselves out of YEARS of business by passing off shoddy work and then
>playing dumb? It is unbelievable that providing services as promised is a
>dying practice here in the 90s. You don't need an MBA to figure out that
>you''ll make $$ and keep customers if you do what your going to say, why
>are there so many cranial/anal inverts who run businesses that can't figure
>it out. It sad to know that this is an OLDS dealer as well.
>
>Thanks
>(only rented the soapbox for an hour, so I'm done)
>
>P.S. for you NE Ohioans, aviod EARL OLDSMOBILE (11300 Brookpark Rd.
>216-433-7100) like you would a Dennis Rodman Daycare Center
>
>
>Paul Fikaris
>fikaris@en.com
>'69 Delta 88 Conv 455
>
>
Oldsmobile Phone Numbers are:

Olds Div GM, 920 Townsend St., Lansing: 517/377-5000
                                        517/377-4000
                                        517/377-5660

Olds Div GM, 3031 W. Grand Bl., Detroit 313-974-1100

Call, ask for Customer Relations and when you have them, keep asking for the
boss of the person that you are talking to, if they will NOT give you
satisfaction.  And keep going until you get to John Rocks replacement, and
that's all the way to the top at that division.  I expect that before You
get that far, you will get satisfaction, as you eventually get to someone
that doesn't want to be bothered, and will cause a subordinant to get it
fixed.

If for some reason they (Oldsmobile directly) will not take care of the
problem, or not in a satisfactory way, go to GM itself.  I'll get those
numbers if you need them, re-post., or ask the GM operator, he/she will have
them.

Believe it or not, the powers that be at Oldsmobile (and GM itself) want to
know when there are problems, and that the problems are taken care of.  They
probably don't want to know what the problems are, just that they are taken
care of.

Also when you talk to someone, get their name, and their direct phone
number, and tell that person that you will call HIM/HER back if you find to
person they passed you on too is unable/unwilling to help; or was not the
person you asked for.  (If you ask to speak with someone's boss, they may
just pass you on to someone parallel in the department, which is not what
you asked for, {remember keep a record of names/numbers/dates}, and, when
this happens you can point out that they lied, and that they will not do
that again.)  Do not allow yourself to be put on hold (keep notes of by
whom) for more than a few seconds, and do not talk to voice mail, only to a
real person.  Be slight angry, but not intollerant, or pissy.  And always,
always, be nice, even though you've developed a case of being slightly
angry.  Remember honey/vinegar and flys.

You can have a lot of fun with this if you work it smart, and do not take NO
for an answer, and you do not get pissy.  Ie, when NO is the answer, you
must go to someone higher up, because the person you're talkin to is not
able/willing to do what you want.  So you must go to someone that can do it.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 01:16:32 -0300
Subject: Re: insurance

At 08:58 PM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>In about 3 weeks(should my body shop co-operate) I should have mama's 72
>convertible on the road. State Farm quoted me $600 a year on the other
>guy only, none on the cutlass. Does anyone know if collector car
>insurance is cheaper and who would be the best to deal with?
>
>Jim Helle
>
>

  Jim,

    We don't know what the "other guy" is.  Please explain.  But on the '72
you can get classic full coverage without a deductble with
limitations.....not a run-around-town primary transportation type grocery
getter.  Year around full coverage (appraised value) is usually under $100 .
Haggerty or J.C.Taylor come to mind.  Do a search on the internet for
'Classic Automobile Insurance' or Classic Car Insurance' and I'm sure you'll
come up with what you need.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: David1756@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 02:16:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Dealer Problems - Help!

Don't forget that the problems in question are *dealer* caused, i.e. they did
shoddy work in repairs.  This means you also have access to state and local
consumer agencies, better business bureau, etc. as well as pretty clear legal
recourse if you care to pursue, as this is not an argument over a new car's
warranty work, or defective brakes, etc. that might be manufacturer related.
 The dealership, however stupid and backward, is a local business that in the
end needs to protect its image and reputation, so proabbly necessary and
worthwhile to pursue along these lines (as well as pushing Olds to help;
along *those* lines, can go to the Olds web site too, where there is a
feedback and complaint mechanism).

Hope this helps and is not too simplistic.

David Wilk
OCA 4517
still looking for the elusive Vista Cruiser "daily driver"

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 04:20:36 -0300
Subject: Got the chrome SSIII's :)

     Well, picked up the "new" rims today.  Had 'em leave the tires on,
since they were so good (Many burnouts--- uh, miles left on em:) Two of em
are peeling, one's pretty bad.  Trim rings would cover it up completely, but
I don't think I want to do that.  I put 'em on the '83 (The right bolt
pattern...  YES!!!)  Oooooohhhh, do they look awesome!  I washed the whole
car for the occasion, and then drove it to work.  It really didn't bother me
that there are no plates on it, cuz I didn't run across any cops.
(otherwise, it probably would have caused some problems :)  I took a few
pictures, and I should hopefully have 'em done by the end of the week, so
everyone can see em.  (that's next week, I should correct...)  Oh, they're
15's by the way.  Got all four centercaps, too :)  Entirely ~too~ cool :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:58:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Celebrity Olds

     I'm familiar with this "problem".  Having a very easily identifiable
     car (1984 Hurst/Olds) a friend of mine just got asked by another
     friend why my car was at her place so late last weekend.  :-)

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Celebrity Olds Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    5/9/97 8:43 AM


>We should start a thread on Celebrities and Their Cars; of course limiting
>ourselves to those celebs who own(ed) Oldses :)

I read in People or some other magazine where they knew the youngest
Arquette actor had spent the night at some starlet's house because his
"60's Olds" was parked out front till the wee hours.  Was it so dark they
couldn't read "Cutlass" or "Delta"?!


------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 07:48:09 -0300
Subject: Brzilian Member's Question

Forwarding this to the list on behalf of a new member... bounced to me
because of the "s*bscr*be" word in the subject line.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:Fernando Sorace Korkievicz <fkorki@www.kanopus.com.br>
Organization: Artejato Co.

I have one Olds F-85 1962 for about 14 years, but here in Brasil is very
difficult to find parts for this model, because it was imported a few
cars. My car, since I bought, dont have a heart of a Olds, his engine
was GM 6-cilinder, wich I take off the car and sold years ago.
Today I want to find here a V-8 wich could use in my car, and I until
have a FORD V-8 292, wich I wanted use because, here, we have parts
easily for this model.
Which cars used the same engine and transmition that I can use and can't
lost the originality ??

Thanks for all, and excuse for my English.

FKORKI

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 09:23:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Body welds

> At 05:04 PM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >I need to know what type of wels i need to replace the rear quarter
panel. I
> >do not want somebody to give me the runaround and talk me into a weld
that
> >will not last or promote rust. If it makes any difference i live in
Northern
> >Illinois.
> >
> >
Thanks
> >Jim
> >
>
> Jim
>
>         I've replaced quarters with factory quarters and the ONLY way to
do
> it right is to spot weld them back like they were originally. Make sure
you
> use liberal doses of seam sealer where you have any panels meeting
others.
> You may want to consider painting ALL inside areas of the panel before
it's
> mounted and you will only lose the paint where the spot welds are. Do
this
> especially if the car is a daily driver type or sits outside at all. You
can
> hide the paint in the trunk with trunk spackle paint after.
>
> Jim Chermack
>

I agree with Jim, but, if you cannot get to a spot welder, drill a 3/8 to
1/2 hole in the places to be welded and use a mig wire feed welder. I have
used this method several times with good results.

Daniel Hall
  cdhall@mci2000.com

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 10:06:24 -0300
Subject: How to read a Micrometer?

Just got one of these devices at a swap meet a few weeks ago so I can
find good used 70 front disc rotors.

I haven't the barest clue as to how to read it, but I'd guess someone
out there in e-land can assist. Would someone send me clear, if long,
instructions on how to read a 1-2" micrometer and how to use it to measure
rotors?

Thanks

Olds content: At that same meet I got the 1966 dealer sales literature.
Too cool all the interior and option information I hadn't seen yet. If
anyone has questions on 66 option availability I may be able to help now.

cf

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 09:36:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

OL> I found your information very useful as I am in the market for insuance
OL>on my 56 Holliday.However, I was not able to find a phone number or an
OL>address for your preference Hagerty. If you can help with a contact, I
OL>would appreciate it.
OL>Regards,

OL> Terry Fletke


Hagerty Classic Automobile Insurance
P.O. Box 87
Traverse City Mi.      49685

1-800-922-4050

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 10:31:54 -0300
Subject: Re: How to read a Micrometer?

> I haven't the barest clue as to how to read it, but I'd guess someone
> out there in e-land can assist. Would someone send me clear, if long,
> instructions on how to read a 1-2" micrometer and how to use it to
measure
> rotors?
each reveloution of the barrel is .025 ( twenty five thousands) there is a
line that you will uncover there. 4 reveloutions will be .100. Thats a
tenth of a inch.It will be marked 1-2 -3 and so on for the tenths or .100.
So if the barrel has uncovered 3 lines past the 4 and the 15 lines up you
have .475 +.015 or .490 which is 490 thousands or just nearly half a inch.
I hope this makes sence Its kinda hard to explain but really pretty easy to
read.

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 09:33:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

Daren@qconline.com wrote:
>
> Hagerty Classic Automobile Insurance
> P.O. Box 87
> Traverse City Mi.      49685
>
> 1-800-922-4050

Has anyone ever filed a claim with this company?

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 14:05:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

>  I found your information very useful as I am in the market for insuance
> on my 56 Holliday.However, I was not able to find a phone number or an
> address for your preference Hagerty. If you can help with a contact, I
> would appreciate it.
> Regards,
>
>  Terry Fletke
>


I am also in the market for insurance for my car....The last time it was on
the road it was not old enough for "Antique" plates or collector insurance
but now it is....I am wondering if anybody else out  there has this
insurance on a modified street/strip Olds??? I have heard some companys
will only take "stock" cars that never see a dragway or have no "race"
parts on them... I am not to worried about anything happening to the car at
the strip but I am concerned about getting involved in a accident on the
street and having the insurance co. not cover it....

Thanks in advance!!!!



- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Brendan P. Foley" <bfoley@ezl.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 11:12:32 -0300
Subject: Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?

I bought a kit for $7.99 at the local parts house. Before I tear into =
the carb, I thought I would seek out the advice of my fellow =
Oldsmobilers.

Brendan P. Foley
71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 12:23:36 -0300
Subject: Re: How to read a Micrometer?

Christian Fair wrote:
>
> Just got one of these devices at a swap meet a few weeks ago so I can
> find good used 70 front disc rotors.
>
> I haven't the barest clue as to how to read it, but I'd guess someone
> out there in e-land can assist. Would someone send me clear, if long,
> instructions on how to read a 1-2" micrometer and how to use it to measure
> rotors?
>
> Thanks
>
> Olds content: At that same meet I got the 1966 dealer sales literature.
> Too cool all the interior and option information I hadn't seen yet. If
> anyone has questions on 66 option availability I may be able to help now.
>
> cf
CF,

All mic's read the same regardless of the Range they cover, a 0-1" is
read directly were a 1-2" you just add 1.000 to it.  The three basic
parts are the frame, barrel and the sleeve which is the part that
turns.  Here is how to read one   The barrel is graduated 0 1 2 Ect with
small vertical lines, each numbered graduation is .100 of an inch or 100
thousands each of the small lines = .025 or 25 thousands there is a
slightly longer line in the middle that is .050 or 50 thousands.  The
sleeve had 25 graduations around it that are numbered, each one of these
marks is .001 or 1 thousanth of an inch, so one complete rotation of the
sleeve is equal to .025 of an inch which will move 1 graudation on the
barrel.  To ge an accuate reading you have to delevope a feel for the
tool, when you close it down on an object do not clamp it, I just roll
the sleeve with my index finger and thumb while holding the frame with
my little finger.  I do not have a very tight grip just enough to make
it turn, I close it down until there is enough resistance to make my
finger brush over the the surface of the sleeve then read it.  In this
example I am  using 0-1 on a penny, you look at the barrel and sleeve to
see what numbers are lining up, in my case the 2nd mark after the 0 is
showing which is .050 of an inch and the number on the sleeve that lines
up with the long horiz. line is 3 so the thickness of the penny is .053
of and inch or 53 thousands.  If it comes out between numbers on the
sleeve you just estimate the reading ex. if its about 1/2 way between 3
and 4 i would say its about .0535 of an inch or 53.5 thousands of an
inch.  Some mic's have numbers on the barrel going part way around it
0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,0 this kind of mic will measure .0001 or 1/10000 of
an inch, all you do is look to see what number on the sleeve lines up
the one of these numbers such as the actual reading on the penny is
.0534. I hope this helps it just takes a little practice to become
proficent with these tools.

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32
70 Cuda 383 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 13:45:50 -0300
Subject: 83-88 G Body  New Factory Dual Exhaust for sale $255

I have a new from the dealer, factory dual exhaust system for an 83-87
Hurst or 442 Olds.  It includes right and left muffler/tailpipe assemblies
and the intermediate y pipe behind the converter.  It is the same Genuine
GM exhaust system used on these vehicles originally which consists of free
flowing mufflers (referred to as resonators in service manual) and all
aluminum or aluminized steel construction.
     As a daily driver, this system is good for about 6 years, for a car
not driven in salt like mine, it is good for about 12-14 years.  My '87 442
still as original exhaust on after 60,000 miles.
     I bought this thinking I would need it, but my exhaust is till holding
up just fine.  This is the best sounding factory small block exhaust I have
eard on a car since the mid-70's.  The tone is mellow but the rumble tells
everyone it is a V-8.  The sound is much better than a Monte-Carlo SS (my
friend has tried 3 exhaust systems Walker, Flowmaster, and factory, on his
'86 SS and still likes mine better).
     I imagine that with the two tailpipe hangers, this system would fit
any V-8 G-body from the same time period.

Left hand muffler/tailpipe assy.  List $125  Sell $95
Right hand muffler/tailpipe assy. List $125  Sell $95
Intermediate Y-pipe behind conv.  List $ 90  Sell $65
                                  -------------------
                                 Total $340      $255

I would prefer it to be someone within the Detroit, Toledo, Cleveland,
Canton, Columbus, Dayton, Cincinnatti area so that I don't have to ship,
can just deliver.  I will be in all of these cities in the next few
weeks.Or you can come to Cleveland area and get it.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

From: JIMufoNET@webtv.net (JAMES DE FRANCISCO Jr.)
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 16:04:01 -0300
Subject: "MY 1987 CUTLASS CIERRA S.L.

Hi Folks;
My 87 is doing something I never noticed befor... whenI,m in traffic
(stop and go) with long ,5 to 7 minutes or so of long idleing ,the
Service Engine Soon light flickers momentarily ,then when I get going
and pull away,I notice Dark Smoke tralling till I get on the Freeway and
up to 55 again. It has 97,000 mile and 2.8 w/AIR and all Power acc.
What can cause this only during IDLING ?
- ---------------------------------------------------
Question ª2...
I start the Olds ,warm up 2 minutes..,pull away and play my radio or
cassette..
.
sometimes I get crystal clear reception and lately..."fuzzyness from my
Right speaker.(CRAKLING)
Any Ideas what can cause these problems?             " HELP !
I must give Free Lectures in the big cities sometimes and lots of heavy
traffic to look forward to ...like Philadelphia and N.Y. !
<> -----------------------------------------------
Also < fwiw >
I,m a "UFO/E.T. Investigator in Pa. "MUFON" and "CIRA/EP" ...
                     --------
If this Subject interest you ,or anyone you know =9B=9B=9B E-Mail me at
...
JIMufoNET@webtv.net or alt. file...
UFOzone2000@webtv.net  " IT,S  HOT" !

"Watch the skies"! ------------------ <>    Jim http://www.tincup.com/ag/h=
/tcwd_101.html























































------------------------------

From: BruceD2e <bemet@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 16:26:19 -0300
Subject: '71W30 trunklid stripes?

I'm about to re-paint as the last step in restoring a 71 W30 convertible
that I bought last year.
I'd appreciate any info anyone can provide as to whether it should have
the trunk pinstripes or not.
The paint was very faded when I bought it, and probably repainted 20
years ago, but did not appear to have the decklid stripe.
Any help would be appreciated.

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 17:20:43 -0300
Subject: Re: '71W30 trunklid stripes?

BruceD2e wrote:
>
> I'm about to re-paint as the last step in restoring a 71 W30 convertible
> I'd appreciate any info anyone can provide as to whether it should have
> the trunk pinstripes or not.
>

The answer is......depends.  If it is with the rear wing (W-35) on the
trunk, then NO, there was a stripe delete with the wing.   If it did not
have the wing, then YES, it was included standard with the 442.  The
real question is whether you want it or not, and if you do, Stencils and
Stripes makes a trunk stripe template for the car (for about $55, or you
can buy a whole car kit which will save money. They also make the
template for the side stripes and hood on W-30)  You just apply it per
directions, mask the surrounding areas, peel out the stripe area to be
painted, apply color, and TA DA!  Instant stripe.  However, if you want
it pinstriped on by hand, then you will most likely need to take it to a
pinstriping place, unless you are talented with a brush....

Stencils & Stripes
1108 S. Crescent
Park Ridge, IL 60068
(847) 692-6893

Hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª668
********************************
