To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #601


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 9 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 601

Re: Dick Miller Racing!
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Re: '67 Cutlass info
Re: Rocker Questions
Re: Bearing Ques.
RE: TCC Solenoid
Re: '75 Omega
Re: Parts Catalog Information
Re: Funny stuff
Re: Hood hinge help...
Re: Re[3]: '75 omega
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Thank you! and More on Omega
Re: TCC solenoid
1964 CONVERTIBLE TOP FRAME
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Amazing Discoveries -- Controll Arm Bushings
Ram Air Hood
Re: '75 Omega
Guess what I found out?
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: Re[2]: TCC solenoid
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: W-30 Optioning
Re: Seatbelt chime module
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: W-30 Optioning
Re: Quad 4 W-41 Owners out there?
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Re: Ram Air Hood
1972 parts for sale
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming one?
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming one?
Center hubs for sale
Re: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks (and non-Olds: amateur theologians)
Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint
Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!)
Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint
Re: Rocker Questions
Egad! Another! (was Re: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!))
H/O mirror gaskets
Eastwood Nyalic Clear
Re: Charging Problem.  Bat won't hold charge
Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?
Re: heads for sale (update)
Re: (no subject)
Re: car info
Re: Re[2]: PS Brackets (was: Springs 'n' things)
Re: Hood hinge help...
Re: Guess what I found out?
1972 Cutlass quarter panels
Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:12:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Dick Miller Racing!

>
> Could someone with a Dick Miller Racing catalog tell me the
> price of the Quad 4 unground camshafts if it lists a price for
> them!
>
> thanks
> Jeff
>
>
LUN-RL-230  $139.19

greg
gzimmerm@runet.edu

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:00:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

>> Speaking of annoying buzzers (actually, this wasn't really a buzzer). My
>> parents bought an early 80's Cadillac, and its chime for the turn signal
>> played "Love me Tender" by Elvis.
[...]
>Seriously, I wonder what company supplied *that* after-market item?

No, it's not what you're all thinking (including me): I have just gone
through their whole catalog very carefully, and cannot find it listed
anywhere by J.C. Whitney.  :-(

Y'know, I could've sworn they _used_ to have it, though...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:09:03 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

- ----------
> From: the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
> To: Oldsnuts of the WWW unite <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: '67 Cutlass info
> Date: Monday, April 07, 1997 10:57 AM
>
> I'm going looking at a 1967 Cutlass "s" tomorrow, and I would like to
> gather as much info. as possible on what to look for before I go.  The
> car is said to have a bit of surface rust, and, although it runs, it
> could use a few things.  Its got a 455, and the owner wants $500 for
> the car.  It seems to me that this is a pretty good deal (if there's
> no rust holes in the car).  Where exactly should I look for problems.
> I know the rear window area was bad about rusting, but were the
> bumpers bad like on the G-bodies?  What else should I look for?  I'll

I have a '67 442, and here is all the rust areas i have found so far:

rear window
front window
trunk floor
quarter panels
rear wheel openings
bottom surface of doors

That's the only serious areas i can think of....

Good luck

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442 (442lbs of iron-oxide)

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:15:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

Todd,
Ever since I brought this discussion up last year it seems that more
and more people are having the same problem with the valve train setup.
I have looked into buying the adjustable kit from Comp. Cams. The part
number for a 350 is 1441-KIT, for the 455 I think is 1442-KIT. The kit
does include push rods becuase it requires longer ones than the stock
set up , I believe the push rod length for the kit for the 350 is 8.490"
over stock which is I think is 8.450" (I could be wrong) . Funny, but
the kit for the 350 uses 3/8" studs not 7/16", and no machining is
required. Guide plates are a must becuase that's how it was designed.
The kits cost approx. $278.49. I think the Mondello special is way too
over priced for me.
Since then, I have been trying to make an adjustable pushrod tool so
that I can atleast find out why my valve train is so noisy. I think the
pushrod length needs to be longer but how much longer not sure, that's
were the pushrod tool come in. I will let the list know when I'm done
making the tool. It might be handy and possibly save me from buying the
kit. All I may just need is longer pushrods.


Fernando
'72 442

tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> Hey everybody, I've got a ticking valvetrain in my 455.  After reading
several > of the posts here and talking with others I'm convinced the problem
is > worn/broke rockers or pivots.  So I figure I mightaswell replace the
existing > stock rockers and pivots with a fully adjustable roller rocker
system. > The catalogs from Mondello and Dick Miller Racing are informative
but I think > their stuff is a little expensive and leave some unanswered
questions: > > 1.  Do the roller rockers require a set of screw in studs, or
are there stock > studs already there I can attach to? > 2.  The Mondello and
DMR kits include pushrods.  If the existing pushrods are > fine, does it make
sense to go ahead and replace them, kinda like a > mightaswell? > 3.  The kits
also include guideplates.  Do I need these too?  This is a street > engine,
rarely sees 5000RPM, only occassional blasts racing a rice burner so > its not
like I need a bulletproof engine for weekly drags. > 4.  Also, many of the
screw in studs offered are 7/16, which I think is > greater than stock?  Is
7/16 really necessary? > 5.  Lastly, any comments about the Harland Sharp
quality?  Will they require > extra think rocker cover gaskets to clear the
oil baffles under the covers?. > > Todd > 71 442

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:19:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Bearing Ques.

- ----------
> From: Blair Rendell <brendell@nfld.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Bearing Ques.
> Date: Monday, April 07, 1997 5:33 PM
>
>         Hi there:
>     I have a 1971 442 W30 and am rebuilding the rear axle. It's the stock
10
> bolt with 3:73? ratio. (with M-22 4sp)
> What wheel axle bearing part number would I use for this rearend? Can
> someone supply me with a CR brg p/n? Any help greatly accepted. Thanks.
> Blair Rendell
> Newfoundland, Canada
>

Kinda off the subject, but the May '97 Hot Rod Magazine has a feature on
strengthening this very 10-bolt axle.  Very good stuff.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:37:34 -0300
Subject: RE: TCC Solenoid

Tom, all,
     Greetings again.  I have exactly the same problem on my '86 Cutlass
Salon. It also has the TH200-4R.  Early last summer, before I left the list
for awhile, the List diagnosed this problem as the TCC, also.  Fairly common
with this tranny, I understand.

     Went home at lunch to grab my '84 Chassis service manual.
>From looking at the pictures, the TCC solenoid is located  at the front
of the transmission, on the opposite side from the TCC electrical connector,
(it's a square, 4-pin connector) inside the pan. (the solenoid, not the
connector) :) So to access it, you will have to drain & drop your transmission
pan and by the looks of it, the filter too.  This is not too great an ordeal.
The TCC is held in place by two bolts.

$45.00 from the dealer seems pretty good to me.

As I did with the carb. info.  I will gladly XEROX and mail you the
appropriate sheets from the service manual, if you wish. Let me know.

Bruce D. Brumm
bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com
'86 Cutlass Salon 307-Y, T-Tops, bucket seats, rally-pak, etc.
'84 Cutlass Supreme 307-Y, rusty.

>From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
>Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 07:36:10 -0300
>Subject: Re[2]: TCC solenoid
>
>   Steve, is the solenoid easily accessible?  i.e. am I able to remove it
>   with ordinary hand tools once I get the pan dropped?  Or do you need a
>   special tool or need to remove the valve body, torque converter, or
>   whole tranny?  Any gotchas I should be aware of?  Does $43.99 from the
>   GM dealer sound like an okay price?  Napa, etc. don't carry them.

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:09:00 -0300
Subject: Re: '75 Omega

Andrew Green wrote:

Another thing no one's mentioned so far is the rear axle problem where
a centering or locating pin of some sort (I'm typing this from memory)
could rust through, and allow the rear axle to shift on its mounts where
it's supposed to attach to the rear leaf springs. The net result is the
entire car "crabs" down the road at a slight angle. Test drive the car
through a puddle in a straight line, then see if the rear wheel tracks
are centered over the front ones. (If not, I don't think it's a really
expensive repair.)

>Having previously worked on a 73 Omega (It was my sister's) I can second
Andrew's suggestion. Hers had a worse problem, though. One of the
intermediate leaves in the back spring had broken. The pieces would creep
out and then the rear would shift and the car would DOGTRACK or CRAB down
the street. I would beat the springs and rearend back in line periodically.
This car is now history but I saved the 350 4V Olds motor which was
ridge-free after 170K miles. Because this car was Nova-based it had the
battery on the right side. The starter was on the left side. It had a 72"
positive battery cable from the factory !!!! Rocket Science !!!

John Pajak     DR OLDS
Lexington Park, Maryland

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 19:24:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts Catalog Information

At 04:46 PM 4/8/97 -0300, Clayton Pierce wrote:
>I've gotten absolutely NO information from anybody yet...  I've come to
>the conclusion that, while, if given a frame, front fenders, and a roof,
>between Brother's, Fusicks's, Paddock, and Year One, you could MAKE a 1970
>442 W-30 from scratch, but just find me ONE part for a G body...  They are
>even getting hard to find here in the junkyards locally where they used to
>be a "dime a dozen"!  The G-bodies are entering that horrible "in-between"
>phase in which they are too old for Oldsmobile to give a rat about them,
>but too new for mail order companies to consider a "classic".

Don't know if this has been mentioned yet but have you tried a dealership?
Try more than one as some are ultra lazy and won't look up parts that old.
There is a dealer by me that whined "well since it is an 80 I have to go and
get my old books out and I don't know where they are and blah, blah, blah"
1988 is only 9 years ago for the RWD cutlass so some parts may still be
carried. I thought I heard that car companies are supposed to carry parts
for a car for 15 years from the date the last one was built? Maybe not?

- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 19:24:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Funny stuff

At 04:48 PM 4/8/97 -0300, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>Today on the way to work a fellow in a 5.0 M*st*ng challenged me.  I
>of course was driving my L*nc*ln TC.  Obviously no match for the
>mustang.  Lets put another 3000 lbs on his back and see how fast he
>goes.  Hmmmmm?

Funny how he challenged something he knew he could beat, must not have alot
of confidence in the 5.0.
I had a similar experience yesterday with none other than an Olds Achieva.
We raced stoplight to stoplight and I let him win the first race (he was
laughing at me, rolled his window down and called my car a piece of sh!t) Ok
so the light turns green and by the time he puts his foot on the gas I am at
the next light already parked...he wouldn't even look at me now. Another
dumb@ss high school punk who thinks just because his car had dark tint,
wheels outside the body, loud bass and headlight covers his car was faster
than mine. I ~never~ get a 5.0 that will race me. I taunt them to no avail.
Maybe I smell bad or something:)
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5 (3.23), PEG2, QLC, Mobil 1,
Fram HP4 oil filter, TFX cat-back, Firehawk SVX tires, blackouts (rear+t.s.)
80 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 W-30:White/Gold, 5.7L, A3, showcar, 1 of 346 made
75 Hurst/Olds W-25: White, 5.7L, A3,project car, 1 of 1293 made

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:16:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Hood hinge help...

ShadowFox wrote:
>
> Greetings fellow Olds lovers :)
>   I recently aquired my brothers 66' Delta 88 (for free no less <grin>).
> The biggest problem right now is before we can start working on the
> engine we need to fix the passanger side hood hinge which just broke. I
> need suggestions for a replacement hinge that would work(as 66 year olds
> don't grow on trees around these parts), or to temporarily rig the hinge
> so we can properly close (and open) the hood. Please respond directly to
> my email address (l-steinke@tamu.edu) as I am not *yet* on the
> oldsmobile list. Thank you for your responses :)
>
> ::tail fluffs::
> Laura
> aka ShadowFox

Laura,

Try:
Olds '65-66
Olds F85 '64-67
Tempest '64-67
Toronado '66-67
Also Chevy II '63-65 will fit

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Frank Gonzalez" <frank@tridentsound.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:31:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[3]: '75 omega

Maybe because Chev**s need all those parts to keep up with stock Olds.
Frank
70 442
71 442 W-30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC
- ----------
> From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re[3]: '75 omega
> Date: Tuesday, April 08, 1997 4:30 PM
>
> ...There are nearly *no* performance items for the 250...
>
>           Sorry, I beg to differ.  There are probably _more_
>           performance items available for the 250 I6 (it _is_, after
>           all, a Ch*vy motor) than the Olds V8 (of any displacement).
>           Try starting with Clifford (6=8) Engineering.
>
>           Also cool, and somewhat related, is the overhead cam version
>           of this motor produced by Pontiac (even available with an
>           optional Q-jet 4bbl!).
>
>           Joe Padavano
>           jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
>
>           66 442
>           68 W-30
>           69 H/O
>           70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:36:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

<SNIP>

> and he asks, out of the blue, "When is a door not a door?"
>
> He (or rather, his car) answered the question when he opened the driver's
door > which resulted in our hearing, "A door is ajar." > > I dunno, it was
awfully funny at the time. > > Tim Churchill

Tim,

You characters will do most anything to keep your minds off the smow.
Is it cabin feaver or something?  Why not shovel a little to keep your
mind occupied?

I can't believe that I cam in from washing & waxing the Toro to find
this post.  I gotta go now.  My granddaughter wants to take a ride w/the
top down on the 442.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: lns9659@LanMinds.Com (Lynn)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:43:27 -0300
Subject: Thank you! and More on Omega

 Thank you for all the helps I got. As for the car I am talking about('75
Omega) it's in storage for a year, befor that about once or twice a week go
shoping or something it's v8(260 or 350 from what I learn from the this
list), 4dr., about 60k miles.
 In my area (SF bay area) local news paper advertised price range $350-$3750
most of them are later years make me think that 70's are better chose, is it?
I have no idea how much the old lady asking for it and hopefully I will see
it next week.
 Another question is how bad(good) is the car to pass the smog test? Part of
living in CA !!

Thank you! and more questions coming if I get the car......

Lynn

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:39:58 -0300
Subject: Re: TCC solenoid

>
>
>      P.S.  Fellow list members, my apologies.  I'd take this to private
>      e-mail but my mailer (cc:Mail) doesn't show the originators address,
>      so unless they put it in their signature I can't reply.
>

>                                                      Steve
>
Steve,

No problem at all.  I would like to know as much as you.  That is the
way I feel about most posts.  I may not need it today, but I will need
it.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: JOSE.TREJO@pactel.com (TELESIS.LEGTEL:JOSE TREJO)
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:58:00 -0300
Subject: 1964 CONVERTIBLE TOP FRAME

      Date:  04/08/1997  04:58 pm  (Tuesday)
      From:  Jose Trejo
        To:  SF-CCMAIL("oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at Internet")
   Subject:  1964 CONVERTIBLE TOP FRAME

CAN SOMEONE TELL ME IF THE CONVERTIBLE TOP
FRAME FOR A 1967 CUTLASS CAN BE USED IN PLACE
OF THE FRAME FOR A 1964 CUTLASS????  THANKS
FOR ANY HELP!!!!

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:57:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

The exaust crossover passage in the intake manafold is cracked and leaking
exaust directly into the crankcase.
Walter

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:23:59 -0300
Subject: Amazing Discoveries -- Controll Arm Bushings

  Well  Folks,
                     I decided that since i had the engine out of my 67 F85 i
might as well go ahead and change the upper a-arm bushings.  Does everybody
know or am i just a twinkie, that if you don't have the engine in the car
there isn't enough weight to keep the front springs compressed enough to not
have to use a spring compressor to reinstall the upper control arms?  I
didn't -- now i do.
   Barring anyother nitwit discoveries --  there should be another Olds on
the streets in about two weeks i hop i hope i hope.

                                                          J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:19:21 -0300
Subject: Ram Air Hood

Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
changed the front tongue?

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:41:15 -0300
Subject: Re: '75 Omega

  I didn't catch the original thread about the 75 Omega but i did catch the
inference that there were no performance part for the 250 ci Chevy L6.
  Clifford makes headders, intake manifolds, cams, and what not for the Chevy
6.
  Offenhauser makes a dual four barrel manifold, a single four barrel
manifold, and
  dual and triple two barrel manifolds for the Chevy 6.
  Almost all of the major aftermarket cam manufacturers i know of make high
  performance cams for the 6 also.
  Even Mallory has a Unilite distributor for the 6 also.
  It should be no problem to get a 75 Omega with a L6 in it to run in the mid
to low 14's in street trim.  And on top of that it would be wayyyy cooooollll
 !!!!!.
 Down with belly button cars i say --- it's just an opinion though

                   J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:44:57 -0300
Subject: Guess what I found out?

Well, a sad day has just happened, I found out that all that babble about
water expanding at freezing point may be true.  Here in lovely Sask, we
went from +10 to +15 days, to a whopping snowstorm/-20 weather
(celcius).  The antifreeze was green on my driveway, apparently not green
enough.


It only leaked after I started it, and seemed to be drooling out
by the driver side exhaust manifold, can Heads crack this way and let
freeze out (Please say yes!)?


Of course, if this is a dead block, I may have to '350 it up just to
avoid loosing my lovely 98 (actually it's ugly, but I'm planning to work
on that)





EA~



Oh too think that I may have caused AISD (Another Insane Sensless Death)


(Joy too think I've got another block left!)

------------------------------

From: Terrance Bradley <Docolds@Magmacom.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 00:47:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
> changed the front tongue?

The 70 hood will fit with the use of your hood extension.
Please use an aftermarket hood as the originals are rare enough for the
W's and 442's they came on.

 Docolds@Magmacom.com

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:49:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: TCC solenoid

Tom,
       Once you get the pan down and the filter off it is very easy. There
are two bolts that hold the solonoid on and the wire harness. The only thing
is to make sure you rought the wires correctly. The price sounds about right.
If you have any mechanical ability at all you will have no problems.
                                                                       Good
Luck







                                                                        Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham


------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:07:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

>Well, a sad day has just happened, I found out that all that babble about
>water expanding at freezing point may be true.  Here in lovely Sask, we
>went from +10 to +15 days, to a whopping snowstorm/-20 weather
>(celcius).  The antifreeze was green on my driveway, apparently not green
>enough.
>
>
>It only leaked after I started it, and seemed to be drooling out
>by the driver side exhaust manifold, can Heads crack this way and let
>freeze out (Please say yes!)?
>
>
>Of course, if this is a dead block, I may have to '350 it up just to
>avoid loosing my lovely 98 (actually it's ugly, but I'm planning to work
>on that)
>
>
>
>
>
>EA~
>
>
>
>Oh too think that I may have caused AISD (Another Insane Sensless Death)
>
>
>(Joy too think I've got another block left!)
>
>Actually, before you decide that the block is a newly-created paperweight,
check the freeze plug located under that driver side exhaust manifold.
They're designed to pop out under freeze conditions and absorb the
expansion, rather than cracking said block.  Good luck!


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: "Frank Gonzalez" <frank@tridentsound.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:05:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

- ----------
> From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Ram Air Hood
> Date: Tuesday, April 08, 1997 10:19 PM
>
> Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
> changed the front tongue?
>
It may be possible but considering the cost and rarity of the ram air hood
do you really want to do this.
I think Body Source makes a repro ram air that fits the 69 .
Frank.
70 442
71 442 W30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:45:24 -0300
Subject: Re: W-30 Optioning

> Danny,
>
> I haven't, but any order like that was probably filled if there was a
> deposit.  I have a friend w/a 1963 Dodge Polara 500 convertible w/426
> wedge, no radio or heater, & power windows.
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama

I'm just playing with ideas. I might have a complete power window set up
fall in my lap.

Danny

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:16:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Seatbelt chime module

At 02:36 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
><SNIP>
>
>> and he asks, out of the blue, "When is a door not a door?"
>>
>> He (or rather, his car) answered the question when he opened the
driver's door
>> which resulted in our hearing, "A door is ajar."
>>

i 'd suggest taking a hammer to those silly chimes!

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:17:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

Isn't that what "freeze plugs" are for?
By the way, so sorry to hear about your leak.  Hope it's NOT a cracked
anything, except a gasket or something not so serious!

   Jim Townsend
On Tue, 8 Apr 1997, Eric Aksomitis wrote:

> Well, a sad day has just happened, I found out that all that babble about
> water expanding at freezing point may be true.  Here in lovely Sask, we
> went from +10 to +15 days, to a whopping snowstorm/-20 weather
> (celcius).  The antifreeze was green on my driveway, apparently not green
> enough.
>
>
> It only leaked after I started it, and seemed to be drooling out
> by the driver side exhaust manifold, can Heads crack this way and let
> freeze out (Please say yes!)?
>
>
> Of course, if this is a dead block, I may have to '350 it up just to
> avoid loosing my lovely 98 (actually it's ugly, but I'm planning to work
> on that)
>
>
>
>
>
> EA~
>
>
>
> Oh too think that I may have caused AISD (Another Insane Sensless Death)
>
>
> (Joy too think I've got another block left!)
>
>

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:53:08 -0300
Subject: Re: W-30 Optioning

> Why not.  I had an Uncle once that bought a new 1953 Buick, and it had PB
> and manual steering.
>
> The Wiz

Here's the sticker. I have the documentation (build sheet) and I am
already adding the rallye gauges. I've gone to the trouble of tracing
down and buying the correct year fenders (with braces). I am also adding
the lighting package. I don't want to go overboard adding options that
will hurt the car in the long run.

Danny

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:57:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Quad 4 W-41 Owners out there?

Jeff,

I'd love any info you'll offer on hopping-up a Quad4!

  Jim Townsend

  '90 W40

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:55:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?

I agree that that "little" 4-banger's fast!  My 180hp version will beat
most anything I come up against.  They'll likely beat me off the line but
my top end'll usually reel 'em in.  However, I think my car's a
fifteen-second machine, as it is now (bone-stock).  Wish it was a
fourteen-second-er!

Here's a neat little story:

I was driving home(to my parents house) one time last year, passing thru
Tucson, and we came to a stop light.  My friend was driving a Saturn and a
Mitsu (non-turbo, I think) pulled up next to him, and revved his engine.
(At that moment I was behind both of them.)
They ran their little race and I followed them to the next light.
Then I pulled up next to the Mitsu. (Couldn't resist.  Plus, my friend in
the passenger seat was egging me on!)
I gave HIM the challenge and heard him say to his passenger(both our
windows were down) "Dude, I don't know...that's one of those Quad4
cars..."  He really was scared of my car!
Cool!
He got the jump on me cuz I thought he was backing out, but, by redline in
second, I had already passed him.  (That's why I don't think it was a
turbo.)

I've also beaten some V6-types, but don't think I've run against any 8's.
(I TRY not to do any racing.  It's illegal, and all that.)  Except a
5.0 Mustang and we weren't able to go very far cuz of the next
stoplight.  It mussta been an auto cuz I didn't seem to have much problem
staying with him (he took off first).  (A friend let me drive her 5.0 auto
and I was pretty disappointed with its performance, so I know that the
auto's are not that hot.)
My brother's run against many things, and won, but he's not too familiar
with makes and models.  (he just likes racing; doesn't matter what he's
against!)

Anyway, just a little ego-booster.

    Jim Townsend

    '90 Calais W40

On Tue, 8 Apr 1997 Nascarnut5@aol.com wrote:

> Jeff,
>
> I haven't got any W-41 owners to respond yet,  although I've bummped into 2
> of them by accident, when I was reading the E-mail.
>
> I really like the Quad 4.  Mine has 190hp.  Per motor trend: 14.7 qtr mile,
> and 7.0 sec 0-60.  I'm sure of the 0-60 times, I can do that or maybe
better. >  There are a lot of newer V-8's that I can beat.  The 1991 (Same
year) Z28 is > one of them.  But w/o modification the car is damn fast. > >
Mine is bullet proof, well designed.  I drive it mostly to & from work. >
Since it was new in 1991, (Apr) I've put about 46,000 miles on it. > > What
do you drive? > > Steve > >

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:39:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

At 09:44 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Well, a sad day has just happened, I found out that all that babble about
>water expanding at freezing point may be true.  Here in lovely Sask, we
>went from +10 to +15 days, to a whopping snowstorm/-20 weather
>(celcius).  The antifreeze was green on my driveway, apparently not green
>enough.
>
>
>It only leaked after I started it, and seemed to be drooling out
>by the driver side exhaust manifold, can Heads crack this way and let
>freeze out (Please say yes!)?

ahh don't feel bad i had a 455 block crack on me and several others cuz of
lack on antifreeze. can you retrieve a sample of antifreeze to test it?
check the freeze plugs tho you could get lucky, freeze plugs by the way
close up the spots where the mold was cast to form the block--not
necessarily to prevent blocks from cracking. yeah it always make you feel
like a horse tail when you neglect the antifreeze

Jeff

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:18:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?

Steve,
My W40 is a '90.  The first year they were made, I think.  I don't know
what other years they were made.  I think they were a road racing package,
sorta like the original Z28, and it's possible Olds dropped that package
when the W41 came on the scene.

Here's my understanding of the W41's history(for you Quad4-ignorant folks
out there!)
The W41 was made because, on the track, the competition
was starting to catch up (turbo Mitsubishis, etc.)  Olds needed a
higher-output package so they just went a step futher than the W40.
I believe they went on to be very succesful in every season they competed.
Don't know if they are still running in any comptetitions anymore.
I heard they set a class record in the NHRA in '92, but I'm not sure if it
still stands.

My W40 doesn't have the limited-slip transaxle(yet), like the '41's (I
don't know if it was even an option for the '40's), and I don't think it
has the 3:91(?) gearing either. (I think I'll keep my 3:74's(?) for the
fuel economy.)

Anyway, if anyone has better info on any of the above, I certainly don't
mind bein' corrected.

Have a great day, all!

    Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:44:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

At 11:19 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
>changed the front tongue?
>

A 70 Ram Air hood will fit the 69 with the 69 hood tongue.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:57:26 -0300
Subject: Re: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks

My grandfather used to have a Chrysler Imperial; might even have been a
'73.  Those things ARE tanks!  I think the Abrams is actually built on an
Imperial chassis, isn't it?
Seriously, though, I heard those things were actually outlawed from many
demolition derbies.

I think I'm one of those "amateur" theologians.  What's an amateur
theologian anyway... Dr. Bob, maybe you could answer that one.

OLDS CONTENT:
One of these days I hope to acquire a Classic Olds.

   Jim Townsend

   '90 Calais

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:00:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?

At 09:18 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Steve,
>My W40 is a '90.  The first year they were made, I think.  I don't know
>what other years they were made.  I think they were a road racing package,
>sorta like the original Z28, and it's possible Olds dropped that package
>when the W41 came on the scene.
>
>Here's my understanding of the W41's history(for you Quad4-ignorant folks
>out there!)
>The W41 was made because, on the track, the competition
>was starting to catch up (turbo Mitsubishis, etc.)  Olds needed a
>higher-output package so they just went a step futher than the W40.
>I believe they went on to be very succesful in every season they competed.
>Don't know if they are still running in any comptetitions anymore.
>I heard they set a class record in the NHRA in '92, but I'm not sure if it
>still stands.
>
>My W40 doesn't have the limited-slip transaxle(yet), like the '41's (I
>don't know if it was even an option for the '40's), and I don't think it
>has the 3:91(?) gearing either. (I think I'll keep my 3:74's(?) for the
>fuel economy.)

right the W-40 was only made in 90 and had a 3.61 final drive ratio. The
W-41 has the 3.94 gears and limited slip a very valueble item like 2 grand,
but bone yard fools have them for around 700 bux. Essentially the W-41 has
a more free flow head than the others, bigger camshafts, and better
gearing. I'm sure some of the W-41 owners out there could add to this.
The achieva SCX and some calais international series also had the limited
slip 3.94 trannys!

i'm working on getting some quad 4 info related to performance parts up on
a web site i'll keep you'all posted

Jeff

------------------------------

From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:03:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

Folks,

I believe that the problem is a broken piston ring.

John

------------------------------

From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:08:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
> changed the front tongue?

Sir,

 I put a 1970 Rallye 350 hood and air cleaner on my 1969 Vista Cruiser
in 1979.  I had to replace the front tongue with the 69 tongue.
It was a bolt in installation.

John

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:23:59 -0300
Subject: 1972 parts for sale

I have a 350 out of a 1972 cutlass for sale. If interested write to my e-mail
address
yorcoy@aol.com

------------------------------

From: James Pindar <jp@webspan.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:17:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming one?

This W41 owner must sell his. 1992 Achieva SCX W41, 5 speed, 82000 miles,
 power windows, c/c, pdl, etc. New Goodrich 235 60 14's. Other new parts.
$4500 or best offer. Located in New Jersey. Contact jp@webspan.net.
You may also want to try installing a valve on the intake manifold water
jacket and shut off the hot water during the hot weather. Really helped.
2,000 for a transaxle? Holy cow!!

IRONMAN wrote:
>
> At 09:18 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Steve,
> >My W40 is a '90.  The first year they were made, I think.  I don't know
> >what other years they were made.  I think they were a road racing package,
> >sorta like the original Z28, and it's possible Olds dropped that package
> >when the W41 came on the scene.
> >
> >Here's my understanding of the W41's history(for you Quad4-ignorant folks
> >out there!)
> >The W41 was made because, on the track, the competition
> >was starting to catch up (turbo Mitsubishis, etc.)  Olds needed a
> >higher-output package so they just went a step futher than the W40.
> >I believe they went on to be very succesful in every season they competed.
> >Don't know if they are still running in any comptetitions anymore.
> >I heard they set a class record in the NHRA in '92, but I'm not sure if it
> >still stands.
> >
> >My W40 doesn't have the limited-slip transaxle(yet), like the '41's (I
> >don't know if it was even an option for the '40's), and I don't think it
> >has the 3:91(?) gearing either. (I think I'll keep my 3:74's(?) for the
> >fuel economy.)
>
> right the W-40 was only made in 90 and had a 3.61 final drive ratio. The
> W-41 has the 3.94 gears and limited slip a very valueble item like 2 grand,
> but bone yard fools have them for around 700 bux. Essentially the W-41 has
> a more free flow head than the others, bigger camshafts, and better
> gearing. I'm sure some of the W-41 owners out there could add to this.
> The achieva SCX and some calais international series also had the limited
> slip 3.94 trannys!
>
> i'm working on getting some quad 4 info related to performance parts up on
> a web site i'll keep you'all posted
>
> Jeff

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:59:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming one?

At 01:17 AM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>This W41 owner must sell his. 1992 Achieva SCX W41, 5 speed, 82000 miles,
> power windows, c/c, pdl, etc. New Goodrich 235 60 14's. Other new parts.
>$4500 or best offer. Located in New Jersey. Contact jp@webspan.net.
>You may also want to try installing a valve on the intake manifold water
>jacket and shut off the hot water during the hot weather. Really helped.
>2,000 for a transaxle? Holy cow!!


I've done some research on this transaxle, and it's not like most of them
it uses worm gears to tranfer the power to the wheels under various weather
conditions and in times of launching. just look at the limited production
of these transaxles...200 in the 442 W-41's and some inthe achieva SCX no
?? and very few in internationals. these tranny were also specially buit by
olds racing team so they have some quality behind them...and if anyone ever
runs across one at a good price let me know!!

Jeff

what's this about shutting off the water the the throttle body? did you try
it?

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:44:51 -0300
Subject: Center hubs for sale

To the person who has the SSII hubs for sale. Sorry but I deleated your
note. I am looking for the hubs that "snap and twist" on. Are your hubs
this style? Please advise. Thank you.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 00:34:19 -0300
Subject: Re: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks (and non-Olds: amateur theologians)

At 07:57 PM 4/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>My grandfather used to have a Chrysler Imperial; might even have been a

Back in High-School, before I got my license and could drive my mom's '77
Vista Cruiser out cruising, my friend got *his* license, and though his
father had a '31 Coupe with a 327 Vette engine, we weren't allowed to cruise
in it. Instead, we took his dad's 4-door hardtop Chrysler out. Could fit
*all* of our friends in that thing, and we even had a few cool tapes for the
factory 8-track. Not a powerhouse with its 400ci motor, but better than a
Schwinn...

Olds Content: When I got my SX on the road for senior year in high-school,
*it* became the car to cruise in! Loaded with friends I could still take
most things that would line up against it (yeah, I know, those are *bad*
things to be doing, but I was young and we were stupid; who wasn't?)

>I think I'm one of those "amateur" theologians.  What's an amateur
>theologian anyway... Dr. Bob, maybe you could answer that one.

Just like an amateur mechanic: some are actually better than some
professionally trained ones, but those who don't know what they are really
talking about can come to some pretty ridiculous conclusions. Just imagine
an amateur mechanic who tells you that he thinks the problem with his car
pulling to the right is caused by his carburetor overcharging his
proportioning valve, because he is running low on blinker fluid. Now imagine
a class of thirty-five students with that kind of knowledge, and you've got
to teach them about front-end alignments. That's what my job is like (sigh...)

(when I speak of amateur mechanics, I'm thinking of someone like my
neighbor; he can't get the "Brake" light on his dash to go away after he did
a brake job. At least he took the starter job he screwed up into a
professional mechanic to get it repaired- he couldn't figure out why the
replacement starter kept trying to start the car after he took the key out...
)

So, while anyone is certainly welcome to investigate the ultimate meaning of
life and our place in the universe, just as they are welcome to work on
their car, people *have* been working on these problems before, and it's
adviseable to at least *start* where they've left off. (i.e. I've suggested
that my friend purchase a _repair_manual_ for his car... Sigh... [again!])

Olds content: The car my friend regularly screws up is a Buick Estate Wagon
powered by, of course, a 307 Olds V-8 (which for some reason idles at
1500rpm; I *hope* he lets someone else fix it!)

WARNING!!! DO NOT MAKE A THREAD OF THIS!!! If you absolutely have to follow
up, take it off-list!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:16:20 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint

Well there has been some controversy on this one.  I'd suggest you write
the '69 H/O advisor for the H/O club:

Kurt Karch
2230 Schrader Road
Haustadt, IN 47639


Send a SASE

On Sun, 6 Apr 1997, MROTHE wrote:

> Another Hurst Olds question.
>
> Any ideas on where to find the Firefrost Gold paint used for the stripes
> on the 69 H/O?  Mine are faded, but any old gold won't do.  I heard R&M
> Paints has a formula for it, but how do I find this out.  ANY IDEAS????
> Help!
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:18:15 -0300
Subject: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!)

While looking through the latest Ch*vy-Rod, I found an Olds! I repeat, an
Olds! No, not a feature (c'mon, be real; though they did a page on a '72 GS,
which is almost as shocking), but a couple pictures of a '71 Vista Cruiser
as the subject of their detailing article (pp. 38-39).

OK, so I guess I'm easily impressed (or my expectations from Hot Rod are
very low...)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:26:09 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Firefrost Paint

I was told but I never ordered them, that Tony Branda 800-458-3477 (yeah
a FORD Guy)has them , they are called Rotunda mirror gaskets used on the AC
cobra. Maybe photocopy the bottom of your mirror and sent it to em and
see if it matches up!

On Sun, 6 Apr 1997, MROTHE wrote:

> evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
> >
> > >Another Hurst Olds question.
> > >
> > >Any ideas on where to find the Firefrost Gold paint used for the stripes
> > >on the 69 H/O?  Mine are faded, but any old gold won't do.  I heard R&M
> > >Paints has a formula for it, but how do I find this out.  ANY IDEAS????
> > >Help!
> > >
> >
> > A Little Different, Ltd. in West Palm Beach, FL sells either lacquer or
> > enamel Firefrost Gold for $50/quart. You can reach them at (561) 640-4135.
> >
> > As this is my all-time favorite car (even though I don't own one....YET!),
I > > take special interest in the well-being of these babies....let me know
if > > you need any more info from this catalog.  Good luck! > > > > Mike
Evans > > Richland, MI > > evans1@net-link.net > > > Mike, > > I've
ordered new emblems from A Little Different.  They are sending me > a
catalog/brochure with the order.  I haven't recieved them yet, so > another
H/O question has come about. > > The mirror gaskets are getting a little
weathered.  I have NO IDEA who > would even make these, let alone where they
are.  ANY HELP?  Anyone out > there have anything on this?  I heard there was
a company repro-ing the > mirrors, so maybe they might have gaskets?  I know
they are one-offs, > but the only other car to use them was the 69 SC/Rambler. 
>
 > Thanks again, > > Mike Rothe > >

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:36:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

I bought the Mondello 7200 roller rockers mainly to clear the aftermarket
valve springs. They clear the stock valve covers but NOT the baffle
side so I cut out holes  for clearance in them.
Mondello provides allen head screws to hold the rockers and fit the stock
stock rocker screw holes in the head.


Later, Jeff

 On Tue, 8 Apr 1997
tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> Hey everybody, I've got a ticking valvetrain in my 455.  After reading
several > of the posts here and talking with others I'm convinced the problem
is > worn/broke rockers or pivots.  So I figure I mightaswell replace the
existing > stock rockers and pivots with a fully adjustable roller rocker
system. > The catalogs from Mondello and Dick Miller Racing are informative
but I think > their stuff is a little expensive and leave some unanswered
questions: > > 1.  Do the roller rockers require a set of screw in studs, or
are there stock > studs already there I can attach to? > 2.  The Mondello and
DMR kits include pushrods.  If the existing pushrods are > fine, does it make
sense to go ahead and replace them, kinda like a > mightaswell? > 3.  The kits
also include guideplates.  Do I need these too?  This is a street > engine,
rarely sees 5000RPM, only occassional blasts racing a rice burner so > its not
like I need a bulletproof engine for weekly drags. > 4.  Also, many of the
screw in studs offered are 7/16, which I think is > greater than stock?  Is
7/16 really necessary? > 5.  Lastly, any comments about the Harland Sharp
quality?  Will they require > extra think rocker cover gaskets to clear the
oil baffles under the covers?. > > Todd > 71 442 > > >

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:34:32 -0300
Subject: Egad! Another! (was Re: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!))

In an ad for the "Hot Rod Racing Champions" series of toy (ok, collectable)
cars, I noticed the snout of what looks like a '70 Cutlass/442 in Blue, with
a REAL HUGE hood scoop. It even looks like the proportions are relatively
normal (not like the Jonny Lightning cars, what with their scale 24" rims...).


Anyone have one of these cars?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:37:02 -0300
Subject: H/O mirror gaskets

Jeff, thanks for the info, I had even called a mfg. facility that makes
plastic parts.  They said that to be economical, 50,000 pieces would
have to be made.   WOW!  I don't know how many people need that gasket.
Certainly not 25,000. Anyway, I will give Tony a call, and I will let
everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:41:21 -0300
Subject: Eastwood Nyalic Clear

Is Eastwood's Nyalic clear any good?

I would like a clear semi-gloss paint that can stand up to engine temps,
not necessirily exhaust but stuff like temp and oil switches etc.

Any other recommendations?  Tried varithane, not tough enough.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:50:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.  Bat won't hold charge

At 12:36 AM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 10:54 PM 4/7/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>>P.S. If it is the fusable link, how difficult is it to repair.
>>>
>>The fusable like is a inline fuze.  They are a snap to change out.  Buy one,
>>and put it in a go.  You can check the circuit by jumpering across the link,
>
>Most fusable links I've seen are not regular fuses that you can change out,
>but rather thin wires encapsulated in a heavy rubber insulator. When the
>circuit overloads, that wire burns out and breaks the circuit. The rubber
>insulator may bubble from the heat, but it can also remain intact and look
>like new. Repair usually involve cutting out the old fusable link and
>soldering a new one in place. There should be two on your car coming off the
>"+" terminal of the starter (the two smaller wires there); they'll probably
>be wrapped up with tape, and you have to drop the starter to get at them in
>the first place. A major pain.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

That's exactly what they look like, and like any maintenance it is a pain,
but not difficult; you just splice in a new one: or--get an inline fuze
assy, and put it in, and have an easy maintenance replacable fuze assy.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Nascarnut5@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:52:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Any W-41 Owners out there?

In a message dated 97-04-08 22:21:55 EDT, you write:

<< Steve,
 My W40 is a '90.  The first year they were made, I think.  I don't know
 what other years they were made.  I think they were a road racing package,
 sorta like the original Z28, and it's possible Olds dropped that package
 when the W41 came on the scene.

 Here's my understanding of the W41's history(for you Quad4-ignorant folks
 out there!)
 The W41 was made because, on the track, the competition
 was starting to catch up (turbo Mitsubishis, etc.)  Olds needed a
 higher-output package so they just went a step futher than the W40.
 I believe they went on to be very succesful in every season they competed.
 Don't know if they are still running in any comptetitions anymore.
 I heard they set a class record in the NHRA in '92, but I'm not sure if it
 still stands.

 My W40 doesn't have the limited-slip transaxle(yet), like the '41's (I
 don't know if it was even an option for the '40's), and I don't think it
 has the 3:91(?) gearing either. (I think I'll keep my 3:74's(?) for the
 fuel economy.)

 Anyway, if anyone has better info on any of the above, I certainly don't
 mind bein' corrected.

 Have a great day, all!

     Jim Townsend
  >>

Jim,

The W41 has the same handling package as the other Quad442, since it is just
a High Output version with some little options standard that the regular
Quad442 package had as an option.  For example anti-lock brakes were
standard.  One extra option I don't think was even offered for the standard
Quad442, was a special fuel pick up that is used for racing.

Steve

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:57:36 -0300
Subject: Re: heads for sale (update)

At 02:04 AM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>WHIZ; I haven't seen a pair like these either. But as far as I can figure
>they must be like chevy. With studs, they wouldn't be able to take normal
>olds non-adjustable, aluminum cross pieces. They must take the same
>adjustable pieces that my 64 has. I got them from a friend that used to
>race olds equiped boats.They have good sized valves in them. I already
>dropped compression in my car from 10.25 to 9.5, so I can run our nice
>canadian fuel. If I put them on it would be more of a power loss.
>Scott
>kozhill@titanlink.com
>
>
A friend of mine that was awful fond of racing Olds 455s until he discovered
that he needed to make a living told me that in the mid-60s Olds had an
adjustable valve train, ala Ch*vy type, it was only on 400's and maybe 425's
(he remembers 400s for sure, but was hazy about 425s), but as those heads
worked well on 455's he used them, so that he could have adjustable valve
train.

I put a post to this list and was told about the earlier engines with rocker
arm shafts.  NO MENTION of this variant.

One of these days I'm going to put my extra 455 back together, and would
really rather have adjustable valve train, especially if this IS what this is.

This is a very valuable sidebar and needs to be properly examined.  Get out
those parts books, and lets find out.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 02:06:06 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

At 09:59 AM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>OL>Not likely directly, as the HEI is less power consumptive than the points
>OL>set up was.
>
>OL>Change to a new model alternator w/solid state regulator, either internal
or >OL>external; on this list the greatest play has been for the internal
type, >OL>which would require an appropiate alternator. > >OL>The Wiz > > >The
hei uses more energy than points (high energy = more power >consumption).I
switched a '72 442 I use to have to hei it made a very >noticeable improvement
over points.You need to make sure that your coil >power lead is supplying a
least 12 volts otherwise you'll over work the >coil and ruin it, also make
sure it's a heavy enough gauge wire to >handle the extra voltage going through
it. > > >Daren > >

Next month in GED class we are going to review the electrical wiring we went
over last time.  Funny thing that Miss Fortran (my teacher) said that if you
double the voltage, that the amperage falls by 50% and that you can use
SUBSTANTIALLY smaller wire with the increased voltages...  ie, voltage goes
up, wire size goes down; everything else remaining the same.  I can't wait
until we get to fuze box replacment with the new zinc pennies, instead of
the copper ones.

Did she lie to me?

After all, if I get my GED I'll be promoted to 2nd assistant fry cook at my
job at McDonalds, and a new name badge from Ronald himself.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 02:11:07 -0300
Subject: Re: car info

At 10:08 AM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>In as much as you brought up the 'Rockettes,' I have a piece of Ropckette
>>trivia.  Do you know where they performed before they went to Radio City?
>>Or does anyone else?
>
>St. Louis, circa 1925 or 1930...
>
>Uh, and I'm sure at least one of them had an Oldsmobile...
>
>Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.
>101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>
>
>
Very good, they were originally the Missouri Rockettes (Missouri theatre),
before the move.

I'm sure most of them that drove had an Oldsmobile.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 02:19:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: PS Brackets (was: Springs 'n' things)

>          Could this have also been due to using early (64-67)
>          brackets on a later application?  The early brackets are
>          different.
>
>          Joe Padavano
>          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
>
>          66 442
>          68 W-30
>          69 H/O
>          70 W-30
>
>
Probably not.  I had a dozen or so Olds diesels that were destined to get
gasoline engines after the diesels failed.  I installed a number of 350
gassers and 455s, and one 403.  We used all the accessories that originated
on the cars.  I never had a water pump problem (probably luck) and we
discovered that the accessory brackets were the same by the useful imperial
method of using them.

On a '79 Cutlass that originally was a 260D, we put in a 455 and couldn't
get the hood down.  Bought a set of 455 motor mounts and everything worked
perfectly (probably suggested by the Olds parts guys, who were very helpful
with these installations).  Never had any trouble with any of the big cars,
regardless of the engine that went in.  We usually threw away the TH200s
too, and put in 350s.  I wonder how many of these cars are still running,
and causing perplexing problems for their new owners and the guys at
Autozone, because nothing is as it seems.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 02:35:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Hood hinge help...

At 01:32 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Greetings fellow Olds lovers :)
>  I recently aquired my brothers 66' Delta 88 (for free no less <grin>).
>The biggest problem right now is before we can start working on the
>engine we need to fix the passanger side hood hinge which just broke. I
>need suggestions for a replacement hinge that would work(as 66 year olds
>don't grow on trees around these parts), or to temporarily rig the hinge
>so we can properly close (and open) the hood. Please respond directly to
>my email address (l-steinke@tamu.edu) as I am not *yet* on the
>oldsmobile list. Thank you for your responses :)
>
>::tail fluffs::
>Laura
>aka ShadowFox
>
>
1. The the part number and try all the local GM dealers, they MAY still have
one

2. What broke on the hinge?  The spring and the pivot are all that I've ever
seen go bad.  A bolt will work for the pivot at least temporarily, and I
expect that there are other hood springs that will work well, if that's the
culprit.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 02:57:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

Snips

>>Actually, before you decide that the block is a newly-created paperweight,
>check the freeze plug located under that driver side exhaust manifold.
>They're designed to pop out under freeze conditions and absorb the
>expansion, rather than cracking said block.  Good luck!

I'm sorry guys, but this just ain't so.  Those are core support holes, and
are there so that the foundry can make the casting.  They put in the little
stamped plugs, and call them freeze plugs: but they do that to fool you.  If
you freeze the coolant, the little that might come thru the core holes will
not save the block, or head; the heads have them too.

Put this one in your list of olds wives tales, that just are not true.  A
friend of mine just got a divorce from his wife, as she just turned 44, he
wanted to trade her in on two 22s!

The Wiz Was Here


>Mike Evans
>Richland, MI
>evans1@net-link.net
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Richard A. Shimel" <rich@uit.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 03:39:35 -0300
Subject: 1972 Cutlass quarter panels

looking for new or nearly new (both) rear quarter pannels for a 1972
Cutlass Superme, Convertible. send email to rich@uit.net

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 04:03:29 -0300
Subject: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

This weekend (wether permiting of course) I am planing to strip my uncle's
old 1980 Custom Cruiser.  Its waterpump is dead along with many other
electrical components so he is jukning it.  Before he does, I am allowed to
help myself to all kinds of goodies.  I have an 81' Delta 88 4-door.  What
I am particularly interested in is getting his PW and if possible PD.  How
difficult is it to convert from manual windows to power this way?  Are
there any specific problems, etc.?  Same for power doors.  Also, since it
has a 350, while I have a 307, are there any other parts that I should
consider for performance upgrade (ex. Carb if possible) other then the
motor itself.  I would love to transplant a 350 into my olds, however his
motor is old and worn, I am broke so would have no money to work on it.
Also, I drive my car like crazy every day, and being a university student,
every drop of gasoline counts. I am not cheap but simply living on low
budget. Thanks.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª601
********************************
