To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #634


oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 27 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 634

IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE
Re: Water Pump Gaskets - was Reply to comment
Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE
Re: 307 KABLOOM???
Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE
Price on a 425 crank and main caps? Any experience?
Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE
Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable
Re: Price on a 425 crank and main caps? Any experience?
Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE: Engine Mounts
Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable
Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE:Power Brakes
Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable
License Plate Frames
RTV/425s/P.B.
Exhaust Help Needed
Rear Wing
Re: Exhaust Help Needed
Re: Exhaust Help Needed
Getting started
VINs
Re: 1975 Select-A-Units For Sale (4/25)
Re: Getting started
Re: Price on a 425 crank and main caps? Any experience?
1970 Cutlass SX
1964 F-85 Hood top molding and letters melted
1964 original colours
Re: 1964 original colours
Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: Original Plates
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: 1964 original colours
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: Parts wanted
Motor Mounts
Re: 91 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - Broken Top Lift
Re: Original Plates
'92 SCX for sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 21:30:44 -0300
Subject: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE

   Howdeeee  Folks,
                               I finally got my 67 Olds F85 running, i had to
bleed the brakes, and charge up the battery but it started right up and
settled into a 600 rpm idle right from the beginning.  I had to add about 6
quarts of tranny fluid to the tranny before it would move and i still need to
adjust the shifter but i was able to drive it.  The switch from power brakes
to manual brakes was a biiiigg  difference, gonna have to get used to that
especially if someone makes an emergency stop in front of me.  I wonder if
anybody still makes the old style velvetouch brakes anymore.  I set my rev
limiter to 3500 rpm and pulled into the back parking lot after it was warmed
up just to check things out -- did a little power brake and goosed it, the
front end picked right up and the rear started to squat just a little, but it
went straight and true, i actually think the big block engine likes the
harder Pro Trac L60-15's better than the small block engine did.  I dunno yet
give me three weeks or so to shake the car down and get used to it again.
 ET's from a legal track coming soon.


        Today is a good day  :-)     J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 21:54:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Water Pump Gaskets - was Reply to comment

At 04:54 PM 4/26/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>
>
>On Sat, 26 Apr 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:
>
>> >       Just in case anybody else reads this --  what's the deal with the
>> >FelPro water pump gaskets???  When i went to put water in my 455 it
started >> >leaking right by the upper part of the pump -- Ok i figure i put
it on wrong >> >and just in case i bought another gasket -- it turns out that
the gaskets are >> >cut just abbout a 16th of an inch off right around one of
the u-turns that >> >lead into the cylinder block -- has anybody else run into
this little quirk >> >with water pump gaskets ? >> >According to my
knowledge, Olds's have two water pumps, a two-pulley and >3-pulley pump.  The
shaft stick's out a bit more on the 3-pulley and the >gasket's are just a bit
different in the upper-passenger side corner.  I >have seen this happen, and
usually keep a supply of both.  I don't know >what possesed them to do that
(probably the same engineer that put that >nut/stud combo on the power
steering bracket that's SO hard to get off). > >Does anyone know if the flow
is different between these two pumps? > >.....Shameless but short self-promo
sig file Version 2.0..... >Eric Aksomitis: >Virtual Junkyard of olds's:
Current count : 5 vehicles >http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/
mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca >.....End of self-promo
..... > > > There ARE two pumps, the difference is in the by pass.

But when I bought a new pump, I got the one with the same bypass that I
already had, and it came with THREE gaskets.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 17:18:02 -0300
Subject: Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE

J2RKT@aol.com wrote:
>
>    Howdeeee  Folks,
>                                I finally got my 67 Olds F85 running, i had
to > bleed the brakes, and charge up the battery but it started right up and >
settled into a 600 rpm idle right from the beginning.

 I set my rev
> limiter to 3500 rpm and pulled into the back parking lot after it was warmed
> up just to check things out -- did a little power brake and goosed it, the
> front end picked right up and the rear started to squat just a little, but
it > went straight and true, i actually think the big block engine likes the >
harder Pro Trac L60-15's better than the small block engine did.  I dunno yet >
give me three weeks or so to shake the car down and get used to it again. >
ET's from a legal track coming soon. > >         Today is a good day  :-)
J2RKT@aol.com

I knew that you'd get that twin 4 running satisfactorily.  Have fun.
Don't forget that the gas credit card bill comes in at the end of the
month.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 23:12:58 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 KABLOOM???

At 06:59 PM 4/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>in the daylight It was pointed out that the damper pulley is not in fact
>solidly attached to the rest of the crank, meaning some serious
>crank damage.  It is

??? Is it just the pulley, or the damper itself that was loose? If the
damper is on there tight, then you've just had some bolts loosen up or
break; only a 93-cent job. What happens when you try to start it? Does it
crank over, nearly catch, catch but not idle, or does it not turn over at
all? I know you're really just looking for an excuse to install a 350, so
ignore these questions if you've already had the 350 hot-tanked.

>unlikely this motor will ever be rebuilt (a 74 350 would wake the thing
>up, anyways).  Has anyone ever heard of such a thing on a 307? (Mail me
>for as complete of details as I can provide if you want)

Well, I'm sure sombody here has killed a 307 before, but they're pretty
tough engines. I'd have to say that you didn't kill your crank (the 307
doesn't make enough power to hurt itself!).

>Another thing, the going rumour is that 307's are twice as much to
>rebuild as 350 olds's, is this true, and how could it be??

That is true. How could it be? Well, they charge twice as much for the same
parts, so... ;)

Seriously, why does a 455 rebuild kit cost so much more than a 350 rebuild
kit? Is there $200 more metal or engineering in the 455 parts? In fact, the
difference in cost of raw materials or engineering is probably
insignificant; it's a matter of demand and volume. There are a few million
more 350's than 307's, so there are more companies making parts, and the
investment in tooling can be spread over a larger production run. In fact,
the only parts that would be different between the two rebuild kits would be
the pistons and rings; everything else is interchangeable.

A vivid example of this can be found in the Northern Auto Parts catalog,
where rebuild kits for everything from American V-8's to foreign 4's are
listed on the same page. One of the cheapest kits is for a 350 engine (not
an Olds; can you guess who?) followed by the same company's 305. This
rebuild kit is half the price of most 4-cyl rebuild kits.

You can do well by shopping around, though. Whereas most places charge
different prices based on popularity, some places like PST group engines by
size and family. That's why the rebuild kit for my 403, which often costs
more than the equivalent kit for a 455 (which was more popular), was listed
for the same price as a 350 rebuild kit! So you might find the parts for
your 307 at the same price for your 350, but I'd go with the 350 anyway.
Better motor, more power, cheaper to build, and the emissions inspector
won't notice anything different from the outside... ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 23:12:55 -0300
Subject: Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE

At 08:30 PM 4/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>                               I finally got my 67 Olds F85 running, i had to

Congratulations! Nice to finally have all that work pay off, huh?

[snip]
>adjust the shifter but i was able to drive it.  The switch from power brakes
>to manual brakes was a biiiigg  difference, gonna have to get used to that
>especially if someone makes an emergency stop in front of me.  I wonder if
>anybody still makes the old style velvetouch brakes anymore.  I set my rev

The pad composition could make a difference; I'd imagine most pads are
engineered with material suitable for power brakes first and foremost
(here's a trivia question for you; what was the last mass-production
american car with NON-power brakes?)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 23:29:51 -0300
Subject: Price on a 425 crank and main caps? Any experience?

I've got a crankless 425 engine that is also missing the main-bearing caps.
Does anyone have experience on what a reground 425 crank should cost? I just
exchanged my 403 crank for a reground one, but I'd imagine that a 425 crank
wouldn't be found on most crank-shop shelves.

In addition, does Mondello sell sets of reworked main caps? I imagine I'd
need to line-hone the block, since the original caps are long-gone. I didn't
see anything of the sort in Dick Miller's catalog.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Olds455cut@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 01:33:50 -0300
Subject: Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE

Did you need to move the motor mounts on the frame for the big block to sit
lower than the original small block?

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 02:03:55 -0300
Subject: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable

Hi all,
 First and foremost today was a great day in Chicago. So I went and assaulted
my differential today. Probably the first time it was opened in 30 years. I
had thought I would do it sooner. To that end I periodically sprayed liquid
wrench at the drain plug several days in a row during March. When I went
after it today, I hit it with LQ first then tapped the plug lightly with the
ball peen. The plug turned freely with no effort right from the start. I was
suprised when after I removed all the bolts from the cover, I still could not
get it off! A few blows to a standard screwdriver later and I was in
buisiness. In anticipation of this moment I had aquired a 4-pack of gasket
material from the Pep guys as I had heard from some off y'all about
difficulties in aquiring the appropriate gasket (its almost a family
tradition, my grandfather used to make his own gaskets all the time to keep
the tractors running). So, with the cover in a plastic bag, I went to
Murray's Discount Auto Parts (a little too much like Trak Auto for my taste).
Their computer only went back as far as 1968 (I'm never on anyone's computer,
why do they even bother?). The parts dude procured a gasket allegedly for a
GM 10-bolt differential, but the gasket was too small, but not by very much.
So I went and made my own gasket out of either the fiber or the cellulose
material (same color and thickness). Oops! There is about one inch less
material than I need! So I created a two part gasket with the larger part a
'U' that tries to close at the top, and a piece to close it (which I put at
the top to reduce some of the possibilities of leakage). [Typing foul-need a
fresh beer (two shot penalty)....much better] Because I lacked the proper
tools/chemicals to properly scrape the last vestiges of the old gasket and
because of the discontinuities of the new (and wholly unique) gasket, I
applied RTV black somewhat generously to the gasket before torquing (sp?) it
on (plus it helped to keep both peices in place when I closed the cover).

And now questions.

1) Did not someone here mention something about certain Oldsmobiles having 10
bolts on 12-bolt sized housing or was that my mis-recollection?

2)  Was using RTV black a bad idea?

Oldsmobile USA lists a gasket for my year. If it is the correct one I will
not have this problem again.

3) I was unable to find an axle code on the  passenger side of the axle,
aywhere. And I looked all over. With the car jacked, transmission neutral,
and one bearing cover of the rear universal joint daubed with fresh 80 weight
gear oil, I spun the right wheel. the universal joint rotated one and a half
times for one full revolution of the tire, approximately three times for two
tire rotations. As more than one person mentioned that this was the procedure
for determining axle ratio I take it that Oldsmobile had a special order
1:1.5 differential available. Rebuttal?

More codes.

4) The code on my transmission tag is 65-OA-1001, but my service manual says
only "2bbl high compression" for this number. From some sources (catalogs,
etc.) I am given the impression (but nothing explicit) that all full size
Oldsmobiles in 1965 were equipped with the TH400. Would someone make a
difinitive comment on whether I have TH400 or not?

5) The code on the top of my timing case is 386525 A. The alternator blocks
the block code (that's where it should be right?) and I did not think to look
for the code when I swapped belts. What does the above code mean for my
engine. My VIN is 356695M141369 and the code on the cylinder head is 381212 A
if I remember correctly (definately A).


And lastly, information. Oldsmobile USA parts can provide several types of
speedometer cables, in several lengths. In fact the catalog states that the
cable length can vary in a model during the same year! As they can provide
several lengths ("please state.....length when ordering") I can only believe
that they are able to cut lengths of speedo cable and attach the appropriate
connectors. Just a note to those with intereset in speedo cables going t the
front wheel.

Enough for now, going to put the differential through it's paces.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 02:24:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Price on a 425 crank and main caps? Any experience?

Olds USA parts does not seem to sell crankshafts, and only sells the main
bearings as complete sets ($67.30).


Karl Aune

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 04:04:54 -0300
Subject: Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE: Engine Mounts

   It's funny that you would ask about the engine mounts --  My Performer
intake manifold is too tall to let me run an air filter so im going to be
switching back to the stock cast iron manifold.  As far as i can tell i have
about three options if i want to run the Performer manifold --- cut the hood
and install a scoop, find a way to lower the engine in the compartment, and
milling about an inch off of the carbureter pad.
I really really want to keep my chrome strip on the hood and unless i can
find someone that can reshape and weld the strip a hood scoop is out of the
question.
  On the other side of the question, right now i have enough room to install
a larger capacity oil pan, windage tray and what not.  That's Hot Rodding
though.

              J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 04:11:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable

>
>2)  Was using RTV black a bad idea?

The answer to this question is almost unvariably the same answer to the
question "Does it leak now?"

When used correctly, RTV is an excellent sealant.  In fact, you probably
wouldn't have needed to fuss with cutting out new gaskets at all (I
~distinctly~ remember how much fun those were!)  When applied to ~clean~
~dry~ surfaces, RTV is very effective.  My best gasked set I've ever
installed came in a tube...  Be careful using RTV on O2 sensor'd vehicles,
though.  Unless you use the right stuff, you can foul up the sensor. (it's a
stretch, but it is possible)  The silicone fumes get into the crankcase
during the curing process, and then make it through the PCV system, and get
burned up, and then form deposits on the sensor, they say.  Theoretically,
if RTV Blue (The cheap stuff, AKA SmurfCum) is allowed to properly cure
before putting the parts in place, it'd be OK.  But why take the chance?
Anyway, enough on that...  :)



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 04:09:22 -0300
Subject: Re: IT'S RUNNING AND DRIVEABLE:Power Brakes

  My best guesses would either be the Ford Pinto in 1980 or the Ford Escort
in the middle 80's other than that --  I haven't got the foggiest idea.

               J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 03:52:42 -0300
Subject: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable

OL>And now questions.

OL>1) Did not someone here mention something about certain Oldsmobiles having
1 OL>bolts on 12-bolt sized housing or was that my mis-recollection?

>From what I understand is that Olds 12 bolt rears have 10 bolt bearings.

OL>2)  Was using RTV black a bad idea?

One possible problem could be if you got carried away with the rtv and
got some in the housing which could then get into the bearings but I
wouldn't worry about it to much.

OL>3) I was unable to find an axle code on the  passenger side of the axle,
OL>aywhere. And I looked all over. With the car jacked, transmission neutral,
OL>and one bearing cover of the rear universal joint daubed with fresh 80
weigh OL>gear oil, I spun the right wheel. the universal joint rotated one and
a half OL>times for one full revolution of the tire, approximately three times
for two OL>tire rotations. As more than one person mentioned that this was the
procedur OL>for determining axle ratio I take it that Oldsmobile had a special
order OL>1:1.5 differential available. Rebuttal?

The ring gear should have the teeth ratio on it. Example   41-10 is a
4.10 gear ratio

OL>4) The code on my transmission tag is 65-OA-1001, but my service manual
says OL>only "2bbl high compression" for this number. From some sources
(catalogs, OL>etc.) I am given the impression (but nothing explicit) that all
full size OL>Oldsmobiles in 1965 were equipped with the TH400. Would someone
make a OL>difinitive comment on whether I have TH400 or not?

I have yet to see one that didn't have one. Mine has a th400.

OL>5) The code on the top of my timing case is 386525 A. The alternator blocks
OL>the block code (that's where it should be right?) and I did not think to
loo OL>for the code when I swapped belts. What does the above code mean for my
OL>engine. My VIN is 356695M141369 and the code on the cylinder head is 381212
OL>if I remember correctly (definately A).

386525 A is a '65 425
381212 isn't on my info list. 383821 is listed as '65 425 all except
irrigation. Some later A heads have 383821B it say's

OL>And lastly, information. Oldsmobile USA parts can provide several types of
OL>speedometer cables, in several lengths. In fact the catalog states that the
OL>cable length can vary in a model during the same year! As they can provide
OL>several lengths ("please state.....length when ordering") I can only
believe OL>that they are able to cut lengths of speedo cable and attach the
appropriate OL>connectors. Just a note to those with intereset in speedo
cables going t the OL>front wheel.

I've been told there's two lengths for the '65 "88"s. Three inch
difference.

OL>Karl Aune
OL>1965 Dynamic 88
OL>Chicago, IL

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 09:55:46 -0300
Subject: License Plate Frames

Does anyone make license plate frames that say "1970 442" or "1970 OLDS"?
Thanks,
 Dan442Olds

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 11:01:50 -0300
Subject: RTV/425s/P.B.

R.T.V.

R.T.V. is an excellent material as a cork/paper/composite gasket substitute.
The last truck we bought while I was still working was a International.  It
was put thru produciton with RTV as a substitute for an ordinary gasket in
most every place concieveable.  If they can make it work properly in
production it certainly must have merit elsewhere.

Off the top of my head there is one place that teflon, either paste or tape,
is superior to RTV however, and that is the water pump bolts that thread
into the water jacket.  These bolts should not be installed dry, and teflon
will prove superior in this application.

425s

The block without main bearing caps is best reguarded as boat anchor
material.  When the block was constructed the main bearing caps were bored
at the same time as the block, and as a result every cap is 'custom fitted'
to its block position.  This is not to say that it is impossible to find an
accidental perfect fit, or that it cannot be rebored, but it usually isn't
worth the expense unless the block is a 'rare bird' that needs to be saved
for say a special restoration.  If it were mine I'd junk it.

The Last Power Brakes

My guess that the last car that was in production where power brakes was not
an option was the Corvair.  I don't believe that it could have power
steering either.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Robert Nevins" <nevinsr@voyager.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 11:02:19 -0300
Subject: Exhaust Help Needed

I'm looking for a little advise.  I have a '64 F85 Cutlass.  All original.
My exhaust is getting to the point where it needs to be replaced.  I think
I would like to go with duals instead of the original single exhaust.  I'm
no expert on exhaust systems or engines so any and all advised would
appreciated. Some of the questions I have are:
1.  Dual exhaust vs single exhaust (benefits/negatives)
2.  What diameter of pipe is best?
3.  What mufflers are recommended?
4.  How much should I expect to spend?
Thanks
Robb Nevins
1964 F-85 Cutlass 2 door Sport Coupe
nevinsr@voyager.net

------------------------------

From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@megavision.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 12:16:27 -0300
Subject: Rear Wing

Hi all,
   I am interested in some feedback on rear wings sold by Brothers
and or Year One. I am interested in purchasing a rear wing and wanted
some feed back from anybody who has purchased one of these wings. I have
been told that the one sold by Brothers Automotive is pretty close to
the originals. Please respond with any feedback.

Thanks,
Tom Williams
70-W31
OCA ª 28886

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 12:26:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Help Needed

At 11:02 AM 4/27/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm looking for a little advise.  I have a '64 F85 Cutlass.  All original.
>My exhaust is getting to the point where it needs to be replaced.  I think
>I would like to go with duals instead of the original single exhaust.  I'm
>no expert on exhaust systems or engines so any and all advised would
>appreciated. Some of the questions I have are:
>1.  Dual exhaust vs single exhaust (benefits/negatives)
>2.  What diameter of pipe is best?
>3.  What mufflers are recommended?
>4.  How much should I expect to spend?
>Thanks
>Robb Nevins
>1964 F-85 Cutlass 2 door Sport Coupe
>nevinsr@voyager.net


Robb

        With the smaller engine found in the 64 I would go with a 2 1/4 inch
head pipes and 2 inch tailpipes.  Duals would be better than a single
exhaust. It will allow the engine to breath better and should net you better
economy and some horsepower. Mufflers are kind of a personal preference.
Noise being the biggest factor and what you are looking for. I personally
like Flowmasters especially on big blocks and built smal blocks. A good
alternative for less money would be a set of Walker Dynomax super turbo
mufflers. Even if you decide to stay with a stock type muffler it would be
better than a single any day.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 12:40:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Help Needed

Rob, I did the conversion from single to duals on my '68 a few years ago.
It seemed like a pretty easy job for the muffler shop. I didn't want
anything too fancy so they just ordered all the parts in from Walker and
it bolted right up. The supplied some new hangers, etc., as well. With
labor I think it cost about $350-400 all together. The only thing they had
to fabricate was a blockoff for the right side crossover inlet, but it was
no problem. I'd recommend it. It makes your car breathe and sound a lot
better.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: ERIC BILLUPS <EBILLUPS@BellSouth.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 12:44:53 -0300
Subject: Getting started

Just getting started with an 1960 Dynamic 88 convertable. Looks very
good...needs some mech work. I would like some thoughts on my two most
pressing challenges. First, brakes go soft and you have to stand on them
to halt the floatilla.  It has power brakes.  I found that it had a
vacume resouvior in the fire wall (little nipple sticking out).Added a
hose, but that didn't fix the problem. Rebuilt the master cylinder..
that didn't work. Is the booster next? What?
Second, my generator doesn't appear to be charging, battery is new and
dead.  Voltage regulator looks new. I'll check this out very soon.  MY
question is if the generator is gone, would this be a good time to put
in an alternator?  If so what is involved and is it costly?
I have a lot to do to make it a sound driver, but outside these issues
it is fun to drive and i'm looking forward getting to the detail levels
you all seem to enjoy. Thanks for listening

------------------------------

From: MV <dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 13:31:48 -0300
Subject: VINs

I've just finished reading this article on VINs and would appreciate if i
could get an address where to get infos on my 73 delta 88, such as mileage,
previous owners, origin, etc...
i already got the package from the oldsmobile history center but the
information provided was not much for the 10 dollars they charge...

THANK YOU.

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 13:47:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 1975 Select-A-Units For Sale (4/25)

i am interested in purchasing these books...please e-mail me at
DJV442@AOL.COM
THANK YOU!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 08:48:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Getting started

ERIC BILLUPS wrote:
>
> Just getting started with an 1960 Dynamic 88 convertable. Looks very
> good...needs some mech work. I would like some thoughts on my two most
> pressing challenges. First, brakes go soft and you have to stand on them
> to halt the floatilla.  It has power brakes.

Many times you can ceck the booster by pulling the vacuum hose to it
while the car is running & plugging the hose.  If the engine smooths out
because of the hose disconnection & subsequent plugging; there is a leak
in the booster. Booster problems typically show up as a hard pedal.  I
would suspect the booster just for that reason assuming that proper
vacuum is getting to the booster.

I found that it had a
> vacume resouvior in the fire wall (little nipple sticking out).Added a
> hose, but that didn't fix the problem. Rebuilt the master cylinder..
> that didn't work. Is the booster next?

I would suspect so.  The vacuum resevoir is possibly used fore the
brakes.  Do you have a large resevoir behind the master cylinder on the
car?

> Second, my generator doesn't appear to be charging, battery is new and
> dead.  Voltage regulator looks new. I'll check this out very soon.

That will be necessary.

>MY question is if the generator is gone, would this be a good time to put
> in an alternator?

I woull stick w/the generator system.  These generator systems did a
good job new & are fool proof.  Why not take the generator to an auto
parts house & have it checked?  New brushes aren't hard to put in is
that's what it needs.

> you all seem to enjoy. Thanks for listening

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 08:56:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Price on a 425 crank and main caps? Any experience?

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> I've got a crankless 425 engine that is also missing the main-bearing caps.
> Does anyone have experience on what a reground 425 crank should cost? I just
> exchanged my 403 crank for a reground one, but I'd imagine that a 425 crank
> wouldn't be found on most crank-shop shelves.
>
> In addition, does Mondello sell sets of reworked main caps? I imagine I'd
> need to line-hone the block, since the original caps are long-gone. I didn't
> see anything of the sort in Dick Miller's catalog.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Bob,

Replacing the main bearing caps will require a line boring.  That isn't
cheap.  The crank won't be either.  A used crank & main caps might be an
answer, but parts & labor may soon outweigh the value of the engine.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: mtpoole <mtpoole@concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 14:47:04 -0300
Subject: 1970 Cutlass SX

I have 1970 Cutlass supreme SX with a w-32 engine, does anybody else
have a 1970 sx with w-32 engine opition? i have the biuld sheet on mine
and been told there were only a few hundred on the cutlass sx with w-32
ever made

michael poole
1970 Cutlass supreme SX W-32

------------------------------

From: Jim Hoekendijk <jim.hoekendijk@pi.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 15:53:11 -0300
Subject: 1964 F-85 Hood top molding and letters melted

I am rather sick of this. I've just stripped my VC for a total body and
paint job and thought, why not replate one and an other?
So I brought my zinc-alloy "OLDSMOBILE" hood-letters and hood top molding to
a place where they said they could do the job.
Now I know better, the letters and molding look like there made of choclate,
they're totally deformed, melted! And the guy wanted me to pay for it even!
Offcourse I didn't pay, I asked him if he's got a good insurance.
But anyway, within three weeks my car wil be reborn, but without the letters
and hood top molding.

So you can gues what I want, can anyone help me to get these items? or know
where they're located?

Jim Hoekendijk, 1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser
Jim Hoekendijk
Badhuisweg 60
7314 EE  Apeldoorn
Tel. 055 5226359
Mobiel 0654 605 177
E-mail jim.hoekendijk@pi.net

------------------------------

From: Jim Hoekendijk <jim.hoekendijk@pi.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 15:53:08 -0300
Subject: 1964 original colours

I've just brought my VC to a specialist for a good body and paintjob.
I still can't figure out what colour to pick, the original colour was ivory,
the interior is light saddle (brown).
I don't want the original ivory, because that doesn't attrackt to much
attention! I'm thinking about (dark) hot-rod metallic red.
Before I make my final dicission I would like to know what the original
colours were back in 1964, if any of you guys (and galls) know the original
colours including the ª's I'd like to hear from you!

Jim Hoekendijk   1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser
Jim Hoekendijk
Badhuisweg 60
7314 EE  Apeldoorn
Tel. 055 5226359
Mobiel 0654 605 177
E-mail jim.hoekendijk@pi.net

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:02:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 1964 original colours

Jim,

Here are the colors for 1964:

CodeColorDuPont ªR.M. ª
AEbony Black88-LA-946
CProvincial White4024-LA-1199
DSheffield Mist4247-LA-1477
EJade Mist4534-LA-1614
FWedgewood Mist4250-LA-1481
HBermuda Blue4531-LA-1615
JFern Mist4532-LA-1613
KTahitian Yellow4530-LHA-1612
LRegal Mist4389-LMA-1536R
PPacific Mist4253-LA-1476
QAqua Mist4529-LA-1611
RCashmere Beige4526-LA-1609
SSaddle Mist4392-LA-1537
VHoliday Red4387-LHA-1538R
WMidnight Mist4395-LA-1539

I have to confess I have no idea what about half of these actually are.
Unfortunately I have only the code chart, not actual paint chips. Lots of
"Mists" in '64, though... anyway, hope it helps.

BTW, I looked in a couple of catalogs and no one seems to have '64 hood
letters. Might need to find a junkyard set. Sorry. But wasn't someone
here just mentioning a '64 they found in a junkyard?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:11:04 -0300
Subject: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

Put my '64 convertible on the road today for the first time this year.
Didn't go too bad, except I have a problem that seems really simple and I
can't find a fix. I am almost embarrassed to ask this but here goes. Last
year the thing started to lose the left front wheel cover with great
regularity. It is one of the old kind with a big diecast fake knockoff
spinner on it, which might be adding to the problem. Anyway, I tinkered
with it all year with little luck. I bent the flanges on the inside with
the teeth on them, I wire-brushed the wheel rim, I even swapped hubcaps.
No success.

Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again. Put
it back on with a rubber mallet (it takes quite a bit of work for it to
go on, BTW; it's not like it's too loose) and after another few miles it
came off again just as I was turning into the garage. Could I have a
wheel that is flexing? What else might cause this? Kind of scary to think
a steel wheel could move around that much. Any suggestions to keeping the
thing on? Superglue maybe? :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 13:33:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates

John M. Loban wrote:
>
> We're pretty lucky in Minnesote as we have several plate options:

> onetime registration fee of $35.00 and no renewal or inspections
> required.

John,

AL has collector plates called "Vintage Tags".  We previously had
"Antique Tags".  A vehicle only had to be 25 years of age to qualify for
them w/no restrictions on their use.  One only had to plunk down $10 for
the life of the car & you were home free.

This antique plate dates back to 1965.  We have so many cars w/this tag,
it isn't funny,  Until 4 years ago there were 38,000 of them & now there
are 90,000.  Because of misuse, the legislature passed a new law
w/attendant new plate that restricts use to vehicles 30 years of age or
more & they must be stock - not modified.  This takes effect October
1997.  The cost is the same; one only has to surrender the old antique
plate to get the new one.

I thought that this would severely restrict usage & was supposed to
eleminate modified cars from this tag.  I had even petitiioned that
there be a companion street rod plate for the rodders.

It seems that the rodders already are using this new plate.  So much for
only original cars.  There is a  $300 fine for misuse & banning from the
procuring of the plates for 5 years, but I haven't heard of enforcement
as yet.

We will be restricted to show/parade use of the new vintage plate.  I
wonder what will happen to that rule.  I have even hesitated to trade
for these plates on a few of my cars because I like to drive them a
little.  Possibly I don't have to worry about that at all.

We cannot get personalized Vintage Plates.  There is no "old plate" use
as in some other states.  The numbers go along w/the county of
residence.  Personalized plates are available in regular issue types &
are popular.  Another popular plate is issued for each
university/college as well as the xxx veteran plates, environment
plates, supporting schools plates, & a dozen others.  I don't know how
the police keep up.

We have no inspections at all.  Only cars 1975 or newer even have
titles.  Plates for these run from $24-$150.  Older cars only use a slip
of paper crudely written called a "bill of sale".  These plates all run
between $16-$24.   Cars are not tracked much at all unless they have a
title.  I was told by the DMV that they had no idea how many antique
plates were out there or who had them.  That is probably so for the
"bill of sale" cars too.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 13:46:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Put my '64 convertible on the road today for the first time this year.
> Didn't go too bad, except I have a problem that seems really simple and I
> can't find a fix. I am almost embarrassed to ask this but here goes. Last
> year the thing started to lose the left front wheel cover with great
> regularity. It is one of the old kind with a big diecast fake knockoff
> spinner on it, which might be adding to the problem. Anyway, I tinkered
> with it all year with little luck. I bent the flanges on the inside with
> the teeth on them, I wire-brushed the wheel rim, I even swapped hubcaps.
> No success.
>
> Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again. Put
> it back on with a rubber mallet (it takes quite a bit of work for it to
> go on, BTW; it's not like it's too loose) and after another few miles it
> came off again just as I was turning into the garage. Could I have a
> wheel that is flexing? What else might cause this? Kind of scary to think
> a steel wheel could move around that much. Any suggestions to keeping the
> thing on? Superglue maybe? :)
>
> Greg Beaulieu

Greg,

Steel wheels don't move around like you describe.  Unless it is severely
damaged, that seems an impossibility.

When you say you swapped hubcaps, do you mean that no matter which
hubcap you put on that wheel, it works loose?  If that is the case,
check to see if that wheel is different from the others.  Some wheels
have a large flat surface for the hubcaps & some don't.  Some have 3-4
"bumps" sticking up from the mounting surface that could be getting in
the way of your mounting tabs.  The type of wheel that is successful for
the other 3 may be the type that you need for these caps.

Another possibility is the balance weights getting in the way of the
seating of the cap.  Possibly this weight can be placed on the back of
the wheel if it interferes.

Finally, there is voodoo.  Do you go to church regularly?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:50:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

>
> Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again. Put

> it back on with a rubber mallet (it takes quite a bit of work for it to
> go on, BTW; it's not like it's too loose) and after another few miles it
> came off again just as I was turning into the garage. Could I have a
> wheel that is flexing? What else might cause this? Kind of scary to think

> a steel wheel could move around that much. Any suggestions to keeping the

> thing on? Superglue maybe? :)

Man that would be agravateing!! Could a out of balance tire be doing it? I
would think that if a steel wheel flexed much it would be cracked. Ford PU
wheels used to break if the truck was loaded too heavy but it was easy to
see. It sounds like you have looked it over pretty well and would spot
anything obivous. Good luck on this one maybe someone has had the same
problem and solved it.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 19:13:15 -0300
Subject: Re: 1964 original colours

On Sun, 27 Apr 1997, Jim Hoekendijk wrote:

> I've just brought my VC to a specialist for a good body and paintjob.
> I still can't figure out what colour to pick, the original colour was ivory,
> the interior is light saddle (brown).
> I don't want the original ivory, because that doesn't attrackt to much
> attention! I'm thinking about (dark) hot-rod metallic red.
> Before I make my final dicission I would like to know what the original
> colours were back in 1964, if any of you guys (and galls) know the original
> colours including the ª's I'd like to hear from you!
>
> Jim Hoekendijk   1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser

Oldsmobile recommended the following exterior colors with the Saddle
interior on the Vista Cruiser.

C Provincial White
J Fern Mist (Lt. Green Met.)
R Cashmere Beige (that's what you've already got)
S Saddle Mist (Lt. Brown Met., very similar to the interior color)

Other colors available for '64 were:

A Ebony Black
D Sheffield Mist (Silver)
E Jade Mist (Dk. Green Met., that would work with the Saddle interior)
F Wedgewood Mist (Lt. Blue Met.)
H Bermuda Blue (real Lt. Blue, not metallic)
K Tahitian Yellow (that would work with the Saddle interior, too)
L Regal Mist (Dk. Red Met.)
P Pacific Mist (Lt. Turquoise Met.)
Q Aqua Mist (Dk. Turquoise Met.)
V Holiday Red (like a fire engine)
W Midnight Mist (Dk. Blue Met.)

So there you go, paint away.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 19:20:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

On Sun, 27 Apr 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Could I have a wheel that is flexing?

I had a '52 that would lose wheel covers left and right (literally).  I've
been told that radial tires do let the wheels flex more than a bias ply
tire does.  Maybe you should put that wheel in the trunk and use the
spare?

> Any suggestions to keeping the thing on? Superglue maybe? :)

I do know a guy who puts the wire wheel covers on his late model Cadillac
with silicone, but I think Superglue is a little extreme...

BTW, the silicone keeps the wheels covers from groaning and rattling, it
works!

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: "M. Taylor" <chef@citynet.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 19:37:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

Thanks Greg for the parts info.....I will call them.
Life is like a box of chocolates...........

------------------------------

From: "Kenneth G. Holland Jr." <rottin@coil.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 19:21:20 -0300
Subject: Motor Mounts

After reading about motor mounts for the past few months on and off I'm
confused as ever..  I have a 1968 442 with no motor and no mounts on the
frame for the rubber mounts to bolt to.. Question is can I use 68-72
frame mounts, and is there is a difference in engine location between
small block and big block rubber motor mounts.  Which would be best to
use so the motoer sits right for headers?

thanks,
ken

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 14:58:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 91 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - Broken Top Lift

Larry English wrote:
>
<snip>
>
> apparently they were rare, but does that mean anyone wants one?
>
> the tops seem particularly problematic, he says they are not factory tops,
> but were added/converted to stock supremes by another company that has
> now gone out of business, and apparently did not do the best engineering
> or manufacturing.
>
> comments, advice, suggestions, sympathy, offers to buy..?..,
>
> thx a lot,
> wle.
> lenglish@atlanta.nsc.com

I have a LeBaron convertible that is built much like my old
convertibles.  The top frame seems sturdy although not of cast frame
rails like the others.  It is all stamped steel.  I have put tops on
several of these cars & they seem to be alike.

This surprises me that Olds didn't do better in their top construction.
It seems that they would have required the conversion people to meet at
least Chrysler standards.  I don't know about Ford's convertibles, but I
have never heard anything bad about them.  I had never heard anything
bad about Olds convertibles either although one doesn't see many.

In driving one Olds Cutlass convertible (1993?) as a new car, I was
dissappointed at the support bar across the top.  I also didn't
understand why the 210 hp engine wasn't any more powerful than my 2.5 L
150 hp 4 cyl Chrysler.  The quality of the interior was very nice, but I
couldn't believe the $26,000 price.  Mine cost $21,000 & I thought that
was much.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 20:23:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates

Lloyd Culp wrote:
> Because of misuse, the legislature passed a new law
> w/attendant new plate that restricts use to vehicles 30 years of age or
> more & they must be stock - not modified.  This takes effect October
> 1997.  The cost is the same; one only has to surrender the old antique
> plate to get the new one.

Well, in MD one can get "Historic" tags for any car over 25 in basically
stock form.  You can also get these if the car is newer and less than
1500 (?) were made (with proof) and the VIN identifies it.  These are
about a quarter the cost of regular plates and no safety inspection is
required.  The only limitation is the car shall not be driven
~everyday~.

Historic tags can be personalized, or, if you have MD plates from the
year the car was built, for an extra $17 they can be your legal plates.
I've got 3 sets of '71 tags for my car (haven't got them on yet).  One
set is rough, one set is pretty good and one set is perfect.  I'm going
to put the pretty good set on as the tag number is "NA 4428" (at least
it looks somewhat personalized to the car).

> I thought that this would severely restrict usage & was supposed to
> eleminate modified cars from this tag.  I had even petitiioned that
> there be a companion street rod plate for the rodders.

There is also a seperate "Street Rod" plate for cars over 25 that are
"heavily modified from stock".

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:47:06 -0300
Subject: '92 SCX for sale

Went to a GM car show today.  One the way there I spotted a '66 Cutlass
that convertible that a neighbor has told me about.  Noticed a car in
front of it for sale, but didn't notice what it was.  Stopped to look at
the convertible (sans bumpers, '67 wheels covers, ugly shade of green) an
realized the car for sale was a '92 Achieva SCX.  It's black with graphite
interior, in dash CD, sign in the window said 28K miles.  They want $7800.
That sounds reasonable.  I can get the phone number if anyone here is
interested.  Car located near Reading, Pa.

I would imagine the ugly '66 is for sale, too.  It was originally Forest
Green, but has been painted an ugly lighter green.  They probably have the
bumpers out being replated.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª634
********************************
