To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #670


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 12 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 670

ATTENTION All '70 442 owners
68-72 Cutlass Convertible
re:Exhaust_system
Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible
Re: Under Dash Wiring
Re: Exhausting possibilities
Re: '71W30 stripes
Re: Under Dash Wiring
Re: Under Dash Wiring
Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible
Rhino Performance mufflers
Exhaust manifolds
Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible
'88 limited slip rearend
Re: W33 455
Re: Head Gaskets
Re: Electrical problems
Re: Air conditioning condensation?
1988 Hurst/Olds Sales Folder For Sale (5/12)
Big Block Intake Manifold ('76 vintage)
Help identify differential
Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible
Re: '88 limited slip rearend
Body Bushings/G-body 442 stripes
Re: Big Block Intake Manifold ('76 vintage)
Re: Rhino Performance mufflers
Re: Air conditioning condensation?
Re: Rhino Performance mufflers
Super Simple Ignition Testing
Re: OCA Dustoff - Cincinnati
vin codes and cowl tags
oil pressure
Differential ID
Re: oil pressure
Cutlass electrical problem- help
THEFT PROTECTION
Differential ID
307 vs 350 swap
RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Lansing In Need of '07, '14, '18, '46 & '82 Olds
G-Body Aero-Effect from Lauren Eng. Specials
Re[2]: Saved From Demolition Derby
Update: Head Gaskets
Re: Update: Head Gaskets
None
Re: My Cutlass Ciera
Re: Lansing In Need of '07, '14, '18, '46 & '82 Olds
Re: Re[2]: Saved From Demolition Derby
Re: Update: Head Gaskets
Wildwood NJ car show
Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re[2]: Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?
Re: Update: Head Gaskets
Hot Rot Mag tour
Re[2]: Fuel Filter Flare Nut
MD Olds Club Meeting 5/13

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 19:55:15 -0300
Subject: ATTENTION All '70 442 owners

On a '70 442 455CI 4 speed w/ Ram/Air hood does the air filter need a
ROCKET 455 decal on the top of the air cleaner to be original?  Does
anybody have one on the top of the air cleaner? Was there an option to
get one?

Thanks in advance,
    RS
  '70 442 4 speed 455ci

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 20:11:39 -0300
Subject: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible

Hi Everyone,
                I have a queation on 68-72 convertibles. On the quarter panel
the seam between the quater and the panel between the decklid and the top is
it supose to be filled solid or a visible seam.






                                                                       Thanks












                                                                        Steve

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 20:56:21 -0300
Subject: re:Exhaust_system

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>

>GSCA sells both a 2 1/2" and a 3" exhaust system for Skylarks of any year.
>It is possible the only thing you would need to modify for your Olds is at
>the exhaust manifold. These are aluminized dual exhaust systems that are
>mandrel-bent and include all the hangers, clamps, reducer bits 'n pieces
>needed to do the job. The 2 1/2" system is $239.

Are you sure the GSCA system goes all the way to the manifolds?  It may
be the same system as Torque Tech's, as they were/are primarily a Buick
speed shop.  I'll check w/ my brother, a GSCA member who bought either
the club exhaust or the Torque Tech one for his '72 GS.  I remember him
saying at the time he had to get the down pipes fabricated for his car.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 16:53:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible

SRB442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>                 I have a queation on 68-72 convertibles. On the quarter
panel > the seam between the quater and the panel between the decklid and the
top is > it supose to be filled solid or a visible seam. > >
Thanks > >
Steve

The seams are filled on mine.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:03:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Under Dash Wiring

Wayne,
Is the orange wire the same color as the other orange wires? Could the stripe
be black?

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:19:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>

>You sound pretty bummed out about your exhaust system woes.

Nah, just confused as usual. :-)

>I plan on running 2.5 inch head pipes with an x-style cross-over.  The
>cross over will probably have to be ordered from the company(s) listed
>in the Pontiac magazine article I referred to a while back.

After spending some quality time under the 442 this morning, I've come
to a similar concusion.  I think I'll be contacting Torque Tech tomorrow
about their complete 2.5" system, and, as much as I despise Midas, I'll
see if they can fabricate the first couple of feet from the manifolds.
After all, the local Midas has a '71 'cuda sitting in the parking lot
all the time, must be somebody there that understands muscle cars. :-)

I concur w/ your analysis regarding the reducers at or near the trumpets.
However, someone else sent me email saying that Brothers has 2.25" trumpets,
so I will be investigating them as a means of "reducing the amount of
reducer" required.

I also sifted thru my collection of High Performance Pontiacs this
morning as found an artice in the April '95 issue on the Torque
Tech system.  They had analysis on the reduction of backpressure,
temperature changes, gas density, etc.  Not your typical Car Craft
"lets bolt on a high perf exhaust in 15 pictures or less" article.

So, it now looks like the 2.5" Torque Tech system, custom manifold
piping, 2.5 -> 2.25 reducers at the trumpets, and Brothers 2.25"
tips.

So the only question left is, which mufflers?  Dynomax Ultra Flow
or Super Turbo?

The ultra flow's internal construction looks like a glass pack on
steroids.  Its just a preforated straight thru tube w/ glass around
it.  The Super Turbo is a three chamber design where the gasses
change directions several times before exiting the muffler.  I'm
guessing that the Ultra Flow is a newer design than the Super Turbo,
but the Walker catalog implied that the Ultra Flow is quiter and has
lower back pressure than the Super Turbo.  Comments anybody?

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http:\\www.calcon.net\~easton



>Scott Mullen
>'70 442

------------------------------

From: "bemet" <bemet@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:33:36 -0300
Subject: Re: '71W30 stripes

Thanks to both  MRothe and KurtH for the answers to my question. I'll check
with the body shop painter on whether they want to go with the stripe kit.
I think the Assembly Manual shows the stripes-- so I'll leave it to him.

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:40:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Under Dash Wiring

> From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Under Dash Wiring
> Date: Sunday, May 11, 1997 4:38 PM
>
> At 03:38 PM 5/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >I've been tidying up the underdash wiring of my 69 442.  Over the years
> >identify.  The wire is an orange/blue striped wire and its hanging loose
> >by the fuse panel.  The terminal was removed from the end of the wire.
> >  Can anyone offer advice or information.

I looked at the wiring diagrams in a 68 service manual and a 70 service
manual. The only wire that appears to be orange w/ purple stripe is a small
wire that connects the key sensor in the switch to the buzzer relay at the
horn relay. Maybe ???

  Daniel Hall
  cdhall@mci2000.com



- ----------

------------------------------

From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:51:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Under Dash Wiring

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
>
> Wayne,
> Is the orange wire the same color as the other orange wires? Could the
stripe be > black? > > Art Fuller > mefco@sprynet.com

Art- I've had ruled out the parking brake light switch...its brown and
white.  The map light is grey.  The orange is the same tone as the plain
orange power wires and the stripe is very visable and is a definetly a
medium blue (not black).  Thanks guys for your help.  Wayne

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:59:11 -0300
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible

At 08:11 PM 5/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>                I have a queation on 68-72 convertibles. On the quarter panel
>the seam between the quater and the panel between the decklid and the top is
>it supose to be filled solid or a visible seam.
>
>                                                                      Thanks
>                                                                        Steve
Steve

        All the convertibles I've seen they have been filled. This is a
problem area because this area has a tendancy to crack due to the body flex
in a conv. I would mig weld this area up grind it fairly smooth then apply
filler to finish it. This will give you the strongest possible seam.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 22:20:35 -0300
Subject: Rhino Performance mufflers

Has anybody tried Rhino Performance mufflers? Any good? Whats the best
kind of mufflers you can buy? I love that boulevard rumble w/ low back
pressure, loud but not loud enough to get arrested. I live in Arlington
Texas.

Thanks,
  '70 442 455ci.

------------------------------

From: njolds@juno.com (Enio L Perdomo)
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 22:34:59 -0300
Subject: Exhaust manifolds

I have an '87 Cutlass Supreme and I am curently trying to install
dual exhaust on it.  My problem is that I can't find an exhaust manifold
that i can afford because the couple of co.'s that I've asked like
Dynomax have told me they would cost me close to $400 because I have the
Oldsmobile built engine.  Can some one give me some guidance, I want to
spend at the most $200.

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 22:39:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible

There no seam on convertibles only hardtops have seams


Everett

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 22:53:49 -0300
Subject: '88 limited slip rearend

I have access to an '88 limited slip rearend with sway bar from a Camaro
Iroc.  The asking price is $200 (Cdn.).  Can anyone tell me if this is a
simple swap into an '81 Cutlass with no sway bar?

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 20:42:56 -0300
Subject: Re: W33 455

>
>         The W-33 has the same cam specs and compression ratio as the
> standard 442 365hp engine. It should also have the large valve heads and the
> original carb is a 7040257 agan the same as a 442. There is otherwise no
> reason that it should be rated at 390 hp. They may have been have been hand
> assembled like the W-30 and W-31. Is there anyone out there that knows
> anything more about these engines? It's kind of hard to believe that the
> 98's 455 was rated at 365 hp same as the 442's std engine but the had small
> valve heads. If you look at this you wonder how they rated some of these
> engines.
>
> Jim Chermack

One thing to remember, Hp and torque ratings are taken at different
RPMs. For instance, where the peak Hp is for the '70 W-30 engine the
torque is over 600 lb ft. The only reason I can see is possibly
insurance and saftey concerns.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:16:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Head Gaskets

OL>Anyway, the gaskets come in sets, and all your going
OL>to save is a very small percentage of the total labor bill, and if in a few
OL>weeks the other side needs a head gasket, you've saved for naught.  ...well
OL>you do have an extra head gasket.

OL>The Wiz

Head gaskets are available individually.  One is usually 2/3 to 3/4 the
price of a pair.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 22:47:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical problems

It sounds to me like you are trying to energize the solenoid through the
ignition system resistor.  If I remember the letters, the "S" terminal on the
solenoid should energize it and should go to the "S"tarting circuit. The "R"
terminal goes to the + side of the coil or the "R"esistor.  I think the purple
 one started it and the yellow went to the coil.  You might want to be sure
of where the wires end up at.

Good Luck
Pat

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 22:48:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Air conditioning condensation?

There's a condensate drain somewhere in the system to allow it to drain out
rather than accumulate.  My guess is that it is plugged.  It is on the
ductwork somewhere by the right side by the firewall.

Pat

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 23:47:49 -0300
Subject: 1988 Hurst/Olds Sales Folder For Sale (5/12)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

1988 20th Anniversary Hurst/Olds Aero Commemorative sales folder.
Original full color pocket folder containing two black and white 8 x 10
factory photos of the white prototype 1988 Hurst/Olds; three sheets of
specifications, photos and other information on the 20th Anniversary
Aero Commemorative kit for dealer installation (printed in black and
red, on white); a copy of the 8-page May 1988 issue of =B3Automotive
Digest of Arizona=B2 which includes an article on the 1988 Hurst/Olds; and
a one page information sheet and order form for the 1988 Hurst/Olds
=B3Mini Commemorative=B2 gokart.  Excellent original condition.  $25.00,
including shipping to any address in North America.  (5/12/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 23:56:12 -0300
Subject: Big Block Intake Manifold ('76 vintage)

Finally found a 4bbl manifold locally. Not too easy because most Junque
Yardes preferntially maintain late model cars. This one came off of either a
Cutlass Supreme or Delta 88 (paid much more attention to manifold and was
pressed for time). A snoppet of the VIN is -H6M- or -H76M-. So It was a 1976
car. All I really know about the manifold is that it was the first one that I
saw that was 14" wide in an Oldsmobile. Basically I went browsing with a tape
measure first and returned with tools after a very brief glance at other
areas.

     The 'donor' car (I suppose one could also use the term victim) had HEI
and lots of vacuum hoses so it must have been 1976. Now I hope you all will
forgive me for not consulting the FAQ first. But this sucker will fit on a
1965 425ci motor, won't it? Also there were things on the manifold that I
could not identify but took anyway. Basically they were two objects that
looked much like a distributor's vacuum diaphram but one was slightly larger
and located passenger's side rear of manifold. The other one was
approximately 3.5-4 inches in diameter and located at the middle of the
driver's side edge of the manifold. This manifold has the choke pipe (heat
stove?) from the original carburetor which was removed at some distant time
before I arrived. Further information; the manifold proclaimed OLDSMOBILE in
raised letters in the front and listed the firing order at driver's side
rear, other markings are not dissimilar to my current manifold. I am also
making the assumption that the block was a 455ci block. I will almost
certainly go back to examine the cylinder heads more closely and insp
ect
areas of the yard that time constraints kept hidden from me. When I do I will
provide complete VIN and cowl tags for anyone who needs anything.

Hope someone with appropriate experience can help. Thanks.

BTW will I need an adapter to put a 650cfm holley on this manifold?

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Detroit iron, gotta love it. Intake manifold = ~60-70 lbs (whew!)

------------------------------

From: raf <raf@cmpu.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 00:03:37 -0300
Subject: Help identify differential

Hello all:
I hope someone can help me.
I have a '69 442 that I've been restoring and the differential looks
like most of the pictures I've seen in publications.
I finally found the differential identification code.
It is located on the differential housing, to the right of the pinion,
the ID letters reading vertically. I.D.= BD

I looked in the '69 chassis service manual I have and the letters "BD",
are not listed.

Thanks,
Richard Fuqua
1969 - 442

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 00:32:41 -0300
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible

On Sun, 11 May 1997 SRB442@aol.com wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>                 I have a queation on 68-72 convertibles. On the quarter
panel > the seam between the quater and the panel between the decklid and the
top is > it supose to be filled solid or a visible seam.


On the '71 and the '72 I've owned they were both filled from the factory.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 00:34:43 -0300
Subject: Re: '88 limited slip rearend

On Sun, 11 May 1997, Ryan Hehn wrote:

> I have access to an '88 limited slip rearend with sway bar from a Camaro
> Iroc.  The asking price is $200 (Cdn.).  Can anyone tell me if this is a
> simple swap into an '81 Cutlass with no sway bar?

> Ryan Hehn
> ryanh@docker.com


Nope, unless you like cutting and welding brackets.  ;^)

- --> Bob

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@Prodigy.Net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 00:40:40 -0300
Subject: Body Bushings/G-body 442 stripes

MROTHE wrote:
>
> Anyone know of anyone making body bushings for the G-body Cutlass?
>
> My 85 is probably a good candidate for them.  They aren't all the way
> gone yet, but I would like to find a set.  The GM dealer doesn't sell
> them anymore....
>
> BTW, Stencils and Stripes has G-body 442 and Hurst stripe packages for
> sale (They list them by GM part ª).  I was afraid they were not going to
> have them much longer, so I went to the dealership and ordered ANOTHER
> complete set of 442 stripes (black/gold).  Saved a couple of bucks over
> what Stencils & Stripes wanted ($575).  I get a discount from my GM
> dealer.  If anyone needs G-body 442 stripes, and has a dealership that
> won't cooperate, let me know the year/color you need, and I'll see what
> I can do.  It's the least I can do for anyone wanting to deplete the GM
> warehouse of 442 stripes.
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 00:59:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Big Block Intake Manifold ('76 vintage)

At 11:56 PM 5/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hope someone with appropriate experience can help. Thanks.
>
>BTW will I need an adapter to put a 650cfm holley on this manifold?
>
>Karl Aune
>1965 Dynamic 88
>Chicago, IL
>
>Detroit iron, gotta love it. Intake manifold = ~60-70 lbs (whew!)
>
>
>
Karl

        What you have there is a 76 455 intake. The round device in the
middle of the manifold on the drivers side is the EGR vavle. (i.e. pollution
control device) The 76 455's were real dogs. Hope you didn't pay much for
that manifold. It's worth about $20.00. It's runners are not as good as the
early 70-72 manifolds. It will get the job done if all you were looking for
was to put a 4 bbl on your engine.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 01:03:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Rhino Performance mufflers

At 10:20 PM 5/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Has anybody tried Rhino Performance mufflers? Any good? Whats the best
>kind of mufflers you can buy? I love that boulevard rumble w/ low back
>pressure, loud but not loud enough to get arrested. I live in Arlington
>Texas.
>
>Thanks,
>  '70 442 455ci.
>
        My personal preference are Flowmater 3 chambers. The reduce the
backpressure and sound awsome. PN 42453 (2 1/4 offset/offset) These fit
nicely in the stock hangers and pipe. If your running the 2 inch tail pipes
have them expanded to fit the mufflers. Then you can keep your trumpets.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 01:07:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Air conditioning condensation?

At 10:48 PM 5/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>There's a condensate drain somewhere in the system to allow it to drain out
>rather than accumulate.  My guess is that it is plugged.  It is on the
ductwork
>somewhere by the right side by the firewall.
>
>Pat
>
Pat

        There should be a rubber tube looking device on the bottom of the
evaporator housing. I have no idea how that could become plugged. That's
where you should see water driping with the A/C on.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: "rick&trudi" <truric@imag.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 01:01:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Rhino Performance mufflers

im in the muffler biz and ive installed both rhino mufflers and dynomax i
have picked the walker dynomax mufflers for my 72 442  two and a quarter
off the headers good tone and flows like straigth tubing

- ----------
> From: Richard Staley <rstaley@fastlane.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rhino Performance mufflers
> Date: Sunday, May 11, 1997 6:20 PM
>
> Has anybody tried Rhino Performance mufflers? Any good? Whats the best
> kind of mufflers you can buy? I love that boulevard rumble w/ low back
> pressure, loud but not loud enough to get arrested. I live in Arlington
> Texas.
>
> Thanks,
>   '70 442 455ci.

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 02:06:53 -0300
Subject: Super Simple Ignition Testing

Engine troubles?  Won't start?  Running rough?  Just want to know what kind
of shape the motor's in?  Read on.  Two of the simplest tests I've ~ever~
seen follow.  I picked these up in school, and I think they're the best
things you can keep in a tool box, when considerring a tune up.

What you'll need:
     12 Volt test light
     Jumper wire (12 guage or better, prefferably with clips at both ends)
     About a foot of "carbon impregnated" vacuum hose (read this as used and
dirty!)
     A buddy (optional)
     Tach (optional)

The first set of steps here will be to diagnose a no start condition, or
moreso a no spark condition.  It tests the primary side of the ignition
system.


     Step 1.  Hook the test light's ground lead to a ~good~ ground.  Double
check the connection (and the light) by probing the + post of the battery.
Repeat step one until the damn thing lights up :) !!!
     Step 2.  Have a buddy crank the engine over for you for a few seconds.
While cranking, probe both the + and - sides of the coil (~not~ at the same
time!)
     Step 3.  Interpret the results...
          + Side:  Light should be *on* steady.  If not, you've got power
problems
                   Long before the coil.
          - Side:  Light should be flashing.  A steady *on* light would
indicate
                   that youre breaker points are not closing. (or have bad
ground)
                   Steady *off* light indicates points that aren't opening (or
                   shorted tach lead)
          If you have a steady *on* light at the + side, and a flashing (or
toggling) light on the - side, and ~still~ have no spark at the coil, it
would then be time to buy a new coil.


These next steps are for a power balance test.  This assumes that the prior
tests were passed, and that the engine ~is~ running.

     Step 1.  Cut the vacuum line into 8 (presumably) 1" sections (~not~ an
exact science, notice there's no tape measure listed in the ingredients
above:)
     Step 2.  Remove the plug wire at the cap (one at a time).  Snap the
vacuum line over the distributor cap tower, and slide the plug wire back
over the vacuum line.  If you've got the right size hose, they should stay
on there tightly.  Repeat this step until all the wires have hoses under 'em.
     Step 3.  Take the test light, and clip the jumper wire (or wrap it
around, etc...) to the probe portion of the light (this part's important,
otherwise you'll toast your light.  A screwdriver works well for this, too.)
The other end of the lead should go to a ground (doesn't even have to be a
very good one.  Just don't use the carb!)  Make sure you don't touch the
jumper wire or the probe end of the test light during the procedure that
follows.
     Step 4.  Start the engine.  It should run like it did before the test
started (i.e. the hoses shouldn't cause problems yet)
     Step 5.  Pick an engine RPM and set it there.  (and leave it there) I
guess this would involve disabling the computer if it's a newer car, too.
     Step 6.  One at a time (and for a constant time) touch the probe to the
outside of each of the vacuum lines.  There should be a spark jump from the
hose to the probe (which sinks the spark to ground through the jumper wire)
Take note of the tach, to see how much the engine RPM fell.  Repeat this for
each cylinder.  Touching the section of vacuum line with the grounding probe
will effectively kill that cylinder (no spark)

Interpretations:

If you're just trying to locate a misfire, it should be obvious.  The
cylinder(s) that made little or no difference when shorted out are not
firing to their full potential (i.e. dead holes!)  From here, you could
inspect that plug wire and plug, and go from there.

If you're genuinely interested in the overall condition of the engine, this
test is equally as reliable as a compression test.  If you remain scientific
about it, and record every rpm drop (and which cylinder it is representing)
- -- that is, short out each cylinder for exactly ten seconds, then let idle
for ten seconds, then short the next one ten seconds, then wait ten
seconds...  etc.  By keeping all these constant, you can get a really
accurate picture of what's happening.  You can determine that 7 cylinders
all drop rpm's that are within 10% of each other, but ª6 has a considerably
lower RPM drop (doesn't drop nearly as much)  This can pinpoint a problem
for you.  If you find (for instance) that cyl's 1, 4, 6, and 7 all seem to
be weak, you can look at the intake (that double H design, I think is what
they called it) and figure out that one side of the carb is most likely
causing the problems.

Real world examples:  When I first put the 455 in the Rockit, it had a
pretty bad miss.  I finally did the power balance, and found that ª2 and 3
both were considerably weak, and the rest were pretty even.  I struggled
with this for a while, but finally examined the intake, looked on the runner
that formed a nearly straight line between those two cylinders, and noticed
the bolt hole that the throttle return dashpot had left behind.  I started
the car, and stuck my finger over the hole and realized suddenly that I had
one hell of a vacuum leak.  I shoved a bolt in there, and it ran great.
Instant tune up.
The 425 I am currently losing :( I tested this way, to determine that ª3 and
7 are completely dead.  Being accompanied with knocking, I know it's not
carb related, or anything else relatively pleasant.  However, with this
knowledge, I knew it made no sense to pull the right side rocker arm cover
to inspect the valvetrain over there.  The dead holes were on the odd side,
so I only pulled the one RAC.  Everything looked great there, so I can
determine the problem lies below.  No need to waste time on the other side,
I know I need to pull the hole thing out and get to the bottom of things
(bad pun, sorry)
I've done plenty other tuneups for people this way.  It's entirely too quick
and easy for finding dead holes.

I hope y'all find it as useful as I have.  Good luck, happy testing  :)





             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 02:09:05 -0300
Subject: Re: OCA Dustoff - Cincinnati

I went to this show last year.  It is a very fine show.  They had around 70
cars I believe, and they were all very nice cars (oldies and goodies) not
80's and 90's.  Not sure if I will make it this year, however if I wake up
Sunday and the weather is nice, top-down and here I come!

Dave Betz
dbetz@netwalk.com

1972 Delta 88 Royale Convt.
1978 98 2-door Regency (daily driver)


- ----------
> From: Pat McDermott <kor@thepoint.net>
> To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: OCA Dustoff - Cincinnati
> Date: Friday, May 09, 1997 2:27 AM
>
> Just wondering if anyone here is going? There aren't many shows close
> like this one:-[. Cinn. is only a couple hours from Louisville and I
> don't know if it'll be worth it(never been to an OLDS' show)? I'd hate
> to ride up there and there only be 80's & 90's cars or a bunch of
> Toro's(No offense I like Toro's I
> just don't have one) and 2 or 3 Cutlass'.
>
> Pat McDermott
> 69 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

From: "rick&trudi" <truric@imag.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 02:06:48 -0300
Subject: vin codes and cowl tags

where can i find the cowl tag codes to find out if my 72 442 is a true 442
just bought it last week has been sitting for 5 years all the oppitions are
there but im noy tottaly convinced

------------------------------

From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 03:00:19 -0300
Subject: oil pressure

does anyone know what normal operating oil pressures should be at idle
and high speed?

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 07:00:14 -0300
Subject: Differential ID

Forwarding this.... majordomo didn't like the subject line. Can't use the
"h*lp" word there, remember...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:Mon, 12 May 1997 00:03:37 -0300
From:raf <raf@cmpu.net>
Subject: Help identify differential

Hello all:
I hope someone can help me.
I have a '69 442 that I've been restoring and the differential looks
like most of the pictures I've seen in publications.
I finally found the differential identification code.
It is located on the differential housing, to the right of the pinion,
the ID letters reading vertically. I.D.= BD

I looked in the '69 chassis service manual I have and the letters "BD",
are not listed.

Thanks,
Richard Fuqua
1969 - 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 08:08:48 -0300
Subject: Re: oil pressure

At 03:00 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>does anyone know what normal operating oil pressures should be at idle
>and high speed?
>

Rule of Thumb: 10 PSI for every thousand RPM. 20 PSI min at idle.

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:24:16 -0300
Subject: Cutlass electrical problem- help

Heres a good one.. My father in laws 60k mile 85 Cutalss Ciera stalled w/ a
dea d battery while driving the other day. I replaced the battery and the
offending alternator(so I thought). I start it and still no charge. No
indicator lamp in the dash either. I replased that bulb(now it works) but
still no charge. Went back to the store and got a new alternator. Nothing.
UNTIL I rev it to 3000 rpm and then charging snaps on and charges fine from
then on. Shut off the key and no until I rev to 3000 rpm. Weird. Does the ECM
control the charging? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.


=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: mplowe@pepco.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:38:19 -0300
Subject: THEFT PROTECTION

I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.  I know
they can always just tow it but I would like to made it difficult for an
amateur.  What are the rest of you using?

My hood is already very difficult to open (broken latch linkage and bent
hinge).  I certainly can't stop someone from getting in the car, and it
does't have a locking steering column.

What I saw in the Summit catalog that looked very interesting was the Grant
removable steering wheel system.  Does anyone have any experience with
these.  I have the tilt column and assume I would have to use a Grant wheel
(no, I don't want to sell my steering wheel).

Thanks in advance for any help

Mike Lowe
'68 442 Convertilble
'72 442 Hardop

------------------------------

From: raf <raf@cmpu.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:38:12 -0300
Subject: Differential ID

Hello all:
I hope someone can help me.
I have a '69 442 that I've been restoring and the differential looks
like most of the pictures I've seen in publications.
It's a limited slip differential (both tires lay rubber..hehe)
I finally found the differential identification code.
It is located on the differential housing, to the right of the pinion,
(right side of casing to the right of input shaft of diff.)
The ID letters reading vertically."BD"

I looked in the '69 chassis service manual and the letters "BD",
are not listed.

What kind of differential is this (MFG)?
What is gear ratio?

Thanks,
Richard Fuqua
1969 - 442

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.css.mot.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:41:26 -0300
Subject: 307 vs 350 swap

A friend of my father has a mid 80's Olds with a 307, after having a fun
of bad luck with rebuilt 307's, he wants to put in a 350.  They guy
wants hard proof that the 307 and 350 interchange.  Is there anything
that anyone has that can "prove" it.  Appartently they guy is not a car
buff, he may do the work himself and wants to be sure that it will work
and he is not stuck without an engine, or with an engine that does not
hookup well.

Is there anything that would possibly not work?  His intention is look
like a 307, and be reliable.  Emissions will be hooked up.  What will
the EPROM need to be changed to?

I may do this swap sometime, but not for now.

Thanks
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:44:56 -0300
Subject: RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help

Frank, I had a problem with my daughter's 89 Cutless a few weeks ago that =
might be the same thing. After replaceing 3 alternator's and having PEP =
Boys try to fix the trouble I took the time to trace down the trouble. =
The small red wire that goes from the battery to the starter and the one =
that goes from the starter to the alternator was bad. They have a =
fuseable link on the starter end. I replaced the fuseable links and that =
solved the trouble.

The alternator needs 12V appled to it for it to start charging. The =
battery voltage was not getting to the alternator. You can check at the =
alt. for 12V.

PEP Boys wanted to replace the computer, "because it controls the =
alternator" they said. Not true. The basic charging system on her 89 =
Cutless is the same as my 70 442. It is simple and works the same way. =
Hope this helps.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the..... Past
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Mon, May 12, 1997 9:01 AM
Subject: Cutlass electrical problem- help
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Heres a good one.. My father in laws 60k mile 85 Cutalss Ciera stalled w/ =
a
dea d battery while driving the other day. I replaced the battery and the
offending alternator(so I thought). I start it and still no charge. No
indicator lamp in the dash either. I replased that bulb(now it works) but
still no charge. Went back to the store and got a new alternator. =
Nothing.
UNTIL I rev it to 3000 rpm and then charging snaps on and charges fine =
from
then on. Shut off the key and no until I rev to 3000 rpm. Weird. Does the =
ECM
control the charging? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.


=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red =
sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show =
car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


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Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:24:16 -0300
From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Subject: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
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------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 10:58:46 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

At 10:38 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.  I know
>they can always just tow it but I would like to made it difficult for an
>amateur.  What are the rest of you using?

Just out of curiosity, is your car often in a situation where it can be
stolen?  I park mine in a locked garage (a requirement in order to get
collector car insurance), and when I'm out for a drive, I don't park it
where I can't always see it (again, a requirement in order to get collector
insurance).

If your car is desirable, and you don't have a locked garage at home to
keep it in, you might consider renting a garage to store it in when you're
not driving it.



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:38:52 -0300
Subject: Lansing In Need of '07, '14, '18, '46 & '82 Olds

     I spoke w/ Bob Jarboe on Fri.  He said they are still looking for the
following year Oldsmobiles for the parade, 1907, 1914, 1918, 1946 and 1982.
 Contact him directly if you are interested.  He can be reached at (517)
377-7780.  Olds changed his number from the one that is in the registration
package.  Also last Thurs & Fri the cars were selected for the parade, so
those who entered should be hearing back soon if you were selected.
     Also as of Fri 5/9, there are 1,550 cars registered and 2,000+ people
coming, most entries are from OCA members. If you haven't sent in your
registration yet, the cutoff date is June 2 !!!  If you need one call them
at (517) 377-6178.
     Scheduled to perform at the Michigan Festival are Randy Travis, Steve
Miller Band, and Sheryl Crow.
     I'm sending my reg in this week.  I'll pass along anything else as I
get the info.

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:39:07 -0300
Subject: G-Body Aero-Effect from Lauren Eng. Specials

I got this in the mail over the weekend from Lauren Engineering.  It's a
photocopy of a couple pages from their catalog of G-body add-ons and here's
a couple of items that H/O owners might want to know about.

H/O duplicate rear spoiler w/ seems
Reg Price $249.95
20% Off   - 49.99
Shipping  + 22.00
==================
Cost      $221.96

H/O duplicate front spoiler
(Indicate stock or 2.5 lower than stock)
Reg Price $199.95
20% Off   - 39.99
Shipping  + 22.00
==================
Cost      $181.96

H/O duplicate hood scoop
Reg Price $179.95
20% Off   - 35.99
Shipping  + 22.00
==================
Cost      $165.96

H/O 442 duplicate stripe package
Reg Price $599.95
20% Off   -119.99
Shipping  + 12.00
==================
Cost      $491.96

Sale Ends May 31

This is not an endorsement, I havent bought anything from them, but they
have contributed door prizes to car shows I've helped out with. Just
thought those people working on 83/4 H/O's would like another source for
parts comparisons.

They even have 6 & 7 piece  rocker panel kits to make your G-body swoopier,
burt nothin like the H/O Aero kits, the front spoiler goes under the bumper
where I think the H/O Aero kit covered the bumper from the turn signals
down.

Lauren Engineering
515 W. Valencia Dr., Suite G
Fullerton, CA  92832
(714) 871-CARS   (714) 871-2277

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:29:30 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Saved From Demolition Derby


Call it family planning.  "It's gonna be our daughter's car, honey.  We don't
want to have to shell out $20000 for a new car for her sixteenth birthday, do
we?"  If you don't have kids, most women would feel pretty good that you're
making ~family~ plans :)

          This can also be a dangerous choice.  With our daughter
          rapidly approaching driving age, and my suggestion of a used
          car which would need some work (not to mention a car on
          which one would not notice a few additional dings), my wife
          launched into the "I won't have my daughter driving a car
          which is continually going to break down on her late at
          night, yada, yada, yada..."  :(

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30


------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@spoiler.interaccess.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:17:39 -0300
Subject: Update: Head Gaskets

Matthew Mayer wrote:
>
> Uh oh...I'm hearing a hissing sound from the left rear side of my 307's
> block when I park.  I'm thinking head gasket....I'm gonna take it in
> tomorrow to be looked at, but what I am wondering is what an average
> price to have the gaskets done would be??  Also, should I have both
> sides done at once??  Or can I save a few bucks and only have the
> driver's side done??
>
hmmmm...dropped the car off this morning.  Said I need rocker cover
gaskets (big surprise...)  but the weird part was he said that the
hissing sound was coming from the _alternator_!  Sound like a possible
story??  It just seems weird to me, because the hissing was happening
when the engine was off!  The total for just the valve cover gaskets was
$234.  Sounds a little high to me...but I told them to do it because I
don't have the time to do it myself.  comments would be appreciated!

- ---Matt
'86 442
- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
remove the "spoiler" for replies |
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 12:47:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Update: Head Gaskets

On Mon, 12 May 1997, Matthew Mayer wrote:
> hmmmm...dropped the car off this morning.  Said I need rocker cover
> gaskets (big surprise...)  but the weird part was he said that the
> hissing sound was coming from the _alternator_!  Sound like a possible
> story??  It just seems weird to me, because the hissing was happening
> when the engine was off!  The total for just the valve cover gaskets was
> $234.  Sounds a little high to me...but I told them to do it because I
> don't have the time to do it myself.  comments would be appreciated!

I've never heard of hissing alternators.... but I suppose it's possible.
But the valve cover gaskets sound awfully expensive. I replaced mine a
couple of years ago and bought the deluxe ;-) silicone rubber jobs from
Fel-Pro, $23 Cdn a pair. About an hour's work, if that. Ouch!

Sure they didn't replace the head gaskets??

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Mark Tonazzi" <Mark.Tonazzi.0193171@nt.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:42:48 -0300
Subject: None

                      Subject:                              Time:  9:21 =
AM
  OFFICE MEMO         None                                  Date:  =
5/12/97

Hello, I am new to the list, check out my homepage:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/clint_paul/zugzugs/gnwin1.html

Also, I have a problem with my 85 442, my fuel gauge does not work
properly.  When I start the car it works its way up to full and stays =
there
for a while, then slowly drops off, ultimately reading about a quarter
tank lower than what is actually in the tank.  Next, my Voltmeter is
always low too, I have checked the Alternator output with a meter
and it's 13+ volts.

I'm guessing I have a bad ground somewhere in the electrical system,
but don't know where to start or if there is something else wrong.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
MT
85 442
85 MCSS
86 MCSS
87 GN
88 Vette

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:28:22 -0300
Subject: Re: My Cutlass Ciera

James- sounds like you should see what the faults are stored in the ECM.
Heres what you do-- in the diag. connector under the dash ground w/ a short
piece or jumper wire the top 2 right trrminals. Turn on the key(do not start).
You should get flashes of the check engine lite in 'moorse code like' flashes.
You should get 1..then.. 2 (3) times. Then the fault code. Read em by counting
the flashes w/ a short pause between the 2 digits. It does each code 3 times
then finishes w/ the 1.. then.. 2 code. Get back to us then w/ what you find.
The speaker in the dash sounds blown. About right for a 10 year old car.


=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:18:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Lansing In Need of '07, '14, '18, '46 & '82 Olds

On May 12, 11:38am, brad.nicholson@ssa.gov wrote:
> Subject: Lansing In Need of '07, '14, '18, '46 & '82 Olds

Brad,
Thanks for the update, I talked to Steve DeNovi on Thursday
(5/8) and he told me the same figures, and also said that 400 swap spots are
sold.
                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903


>      I spoke w/ Bob Jarboe on Fri.  He said they are still looking for the
> following year Oldsmobiles for the parade, 1907, 1914, 1918, 1946 and 1982.
>  Contact him directly if you are interested.  He can be reached at (517)
> 377-7780.  Olds changed his number from the one that is in the registration
> package.  Also last Thurs & Fri the cars were selected for the parade, so
> those who entered should be hearing back soon if you were selected.
>      Also as of Fri 5/9, there are 1,550 cars registered and 2,000+ people
> coming, most entries are from OCA members. If you haven't sent in your
> registration yet, the cutoff date is June 2 !!!  If you need one call them
> at (517) 377-6178.
>      Scheduled to perform at the Michigan Festival are Randy Travis, Steve
> Miller Band, and Sheryl Crow.
>      I'm sending my reg in this week.  I'll pass along anything else as I
> get the info.
>
>  ---
> | | | Brad Nicholson
> | | | 1987 442 W-42
> |/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
> | | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
>  ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
> (W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
> (H) brad442@erols.com
>
>
>
>-- End of excerpt from brad.nicholson@ssa.gov

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:50:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Saved From Demolition Derby

<snip>
> From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
>           This can also be a dangerous choice.  With our daughter
>           rapidly approaching driving age, and my suggestion of a used
>           car which would need some work (not to mention a car on
>           which one would not notice a few additional dings), my wife
>           launched into the "I won't have my daughter driving a car
>           which is continually going to break down on her late at
>           night, yada, yada, yada..."  :(

To which you should have responded resolutely, "Sweetie, I wouldn't even
~think~ of letting our daughter drive a F*rd!" ;)

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:08:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Update: Head Gaskets

> > when the engine was off!  The total for just the valve cover gaskets was
> > $234.  Sounds a little high to me...but I told them to do it because I
>
> I've never heard of hissing alternators.... but I suppose it's possible.

I wonder if disconnecting the battery would stop this hissing?

> Fel-Pro, $23 Cdn a pair. About an hour's work, if that. Ouch!

A.I.R. fittings and A/C compressor brackets do restrict access to the
passenger side rocker arm cover.  A pre-emissions non-A/C engine would be
less time consuming to work on, although $234 could be on the high
end of the spectrum.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 14:50:36 -0300
Subject: Wildwood NJ car show

Did anybody else go to the Wildwood NJ car show ovwr the weekend? Wildwood
is a beach resort in Jersey w/ a 5 mile boardwalk. There were cars door handle
to door handle all the way from one end to the other. Had muffler rapping,
flam e throwing and controlled burnout contests. Anyway there was an
incredible 66 W-30 there. Frame off 100 point resto. Member of the OCL too.
NICE car. There was a 70 red w-30 convertible and a 86 and 79 442 (W25?) there
too. As well as a 71 442 and a few prostreet Cutlasses too. In all, a decent
showing for Oldsmo bile. Oh and a 83 H/O too.


=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 14:22:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

<snip>
> It got me thinking if we and any other Olds fans we know
> start writing these types of mags demanding more Olds maybe they will
> start printing more Olds articles. Why stop there we could also contact
> after market manufactures. I wouldn't mind having a set of Edelbrock
> aluminum heads on my 425.
>
>
> Daren
>
> O.C.A. ª23571
> daren@qconline.com
>
> P.S. The new Popular Hot Rodding has a '67? Cutlass body on the cover!
> Very nice looking, well at least what's there.Hav'ta send them a letter
> asking when there'll be an article about the car.

Classic Auto Restorer magazine just did a great how-to article about
detailing a '66? 442 chassis.  You can't buy CAR at the newstand, so if
you're not subscribed, you're S.O.L.  But, I may be able to get the whole
article scanned in and on a web page in about 3 weeks.  Let me know if
anyone is interested...

- -Blaine
'72 Cutlass Supreme
'66 Cutlass Convertible coming soon...

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 16:12:01 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?

Funny thing, I just did this over the weekend . . . about 3 hrs kneeling on
the garage floor - ouch!

Rebuild it on a bench/table (see above)!! Lay the parts out as you remove
them. Have plenty of shop towels available for laying parts on and cleaning.
Be generous with the carb cleaner, spray everything. Take time to keep/make
it clean. Don't force anything!! Use the right size screwdrivers! Make
diagrams for the linkages (sure helps on the first rebuild)! Don't remove the
ckoke assembly.

When inserting the primary needle assembly, make sure it bottoms in the jets,
then position the top (airhorn) gasket toward the rear, down and over the
needle assembly. If replacing the float, make darn sure the pintle valve will
seal when the float bowl is full (otherwise the carb will flood)! Instead of
using carb feet, straddle the carb over a couple of foot long 2x4's.

And most importantly, put some JB Weld on those well plugs!! Careful with
gooping up the rear ones (2 at middle of carb), as they are positioned very
close to the gasket. Let JB set up for a couple of hours at least before
reassembling (maybe clean middle section first). JB on the front plugs for 5
years and 80K miles - no leaks - I'm sold!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 15:24:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Update: Head Gaskets

On Mon, 12 May 1997, Matthew Mayer wrote:
> >
> hmmmm...dropped the car off this morning.  Said I need rocker cover
> gaskets (big surprise...)  but the weird part was he said that the
> hissing sound was coming from the _alternator_!  Sound like a possible
> story??  It just seems weird to me, because the hissing was happening
> when the engine was off!  The total for just the valve cover gaskets was
> $234.  Sounds a little high to me...but I told them to do it because I
> don't have the time to do it myself.  comments would be appreciated!

$234 to change valve cover gaskets?

next time you need that done LET ME KNOW!

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 15:31:31 -0300
Subject: Hot Rot Mag tour

The Hot Rod Magazine tour came through my little home town on Saturday.
Unfortunately I was out of town and missed it. ;(  Miss Hurst Shifter,
Linda Vaughn was supposed to be part of it.  I was hopin' to get a picture.
 Oh whell...  Maybe next time.

- -BS

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 16:49:20 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel Filter Flare Nut

Also, as someone pointed out, try putting the vice grips on the flare nut
wrench to squeeze down on the nut. They pointed out that the open end of
the wrench wants to expand, causing it to slip and round the nut.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------
Vice grips on a tubing line nut = instant destruction.  Fine if you want
to replace the nut - but be carefull, the vise pressure turns the nut
into an oblong rather than a circle and if this happens to be turning
into an aluminum carb inlet good luck sealing your inlet.  Be patient a
tubing (or flare nut wrench) is all you should use.  File the nut points
if they are not sharp and sides flat and try putting some electrical
tape around the nut to make the wrench tighter.  Be sure the other nut
is held by a wrench also - sometimes a quick snap with a plastic tipped
hammer on the wrench will break it loose.  We all use vice grips as last
resort sometimes and this usually results in more work.

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 11:38:59 -0300
Subject: MD Olds Club Meeting 5/13

One Last Gratuitous Plug:
The next meeting of the Oldsmobile Centennial Club will be on: Tuesday May
13, 1997 starting at 7PM.

The meeting will be held at :
ERNIE SWANSON OLDSMOBILE
410 N. CRAIN HIGHWAY, GLEN BURNIE, MD 21061-3009 Phone: (410) 768-8800
Fax: (410) 768-1948

All we ask is that you NOT park in front of the dealership as they will be
open. Please park to the right of the showroom, down in front of the
service bays, there is plenty of room.  We have a meeting room in the back
and to the left in the showroom building.  Someone will be in the showroom
to show you where the meeting is. We shouldn't run past 8:30PM.

If you know of anyone else who might be interested, and not on the
newsgroup, please pass the word along and or bring them with ya.  There are
25+ current members in the club and 1 event has been scheduled ( the cruise
@ the Big M Drive-In in September), another on the drawing board for this
summer, (date to be finalized that night) and even a picnic is in the
works.  There is a wide variety of Oldsmobiles represented, add yours to
the list.  We will be discussing the upcoming summer show, other local
events, club logo design , name the newsletter contest, Cruise Nite events
planning and whatever else comes up.

There is still the opportunity to be a founding father in a car club, as
anyone who joins before June 1 will be able to sign the bylaws.  Anyone who
joins this year will be considered a Charter Member.

Anyone interested in joining, or know of someone who might be interested,
drop me some e-mail.  I have directions to the meeting.  If you plan on
coming, please e-mail me so we have a head count for refreshments.  There
will be a deli tray for anyone who misses dinner at their house.


Thanks for the bandwidth.

- ---
| | |  Brad Nicholson
| | |  1987 442 W-42
|/|\|  1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | |  Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
- ---   Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com
http://www.erols.com/brad442 (Frames coming 5/17 - I hope!)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª670
********************************
