To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #676


oldsmobile-digest           Friday, 16 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 676

RE: Driveline Vibration
Re: engine modifications
Ujoints?
Re: Dash Painting
Re: 425 engine dilemma
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: Dash Painting
many o' questions
Engine swap
Re: many o' questions - electric fans
IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
lost e-mail
Re: engine modifications
Re: Dash Painting
Re: Engine swap
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Posi units
Re: NEED PULLEY
Calling All OCA Members - Send Me Your URL
Re: steering wheel
Re: NEED PULLEY
Help! 1987 Cutlass doors Wanted:
Re: Driveline Vibration
Re: lost e-mail
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: 66 442 conv. 4 sale
Re: many o' questions
Re: 67' 442 rear end questions???
Re: Posi units
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
1987 Cutlass Doors wanted (fwd)
Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re: Assorted Topics
Re: engine modifications
Re: Driveline Vibration
Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re: Radios
Re:  Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Re: engine modifications
Re: many o' questions
Re: Driveline Vibration
Re: Re[2]: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Re: engine modifications
Re: engine modifications
Re: Dash Painting
Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
Overheating

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:01:43 -0300
Subject: RE: Driveline Vibration

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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I had similar symptoms with my 86 cutlass. My rear springs needed to be =
replaced, and my drive shaft was out of alignment. If your springs are =
sagging, I would replace them first.

- ----------
From: Christian Fair
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 1997 1:31 PM
To: Olds Mailing List
Subject: Driveline Vibration


Oldmopeople,
I'm getting a weird vibration in what may be the driveline at about =
50-65
mph. Very disconcerting. I think it might be the driveshaft, tranny or a
wheel out of balance.

Do you have any advice about what order I should eliminate the =
candidates?

I was thinking about rotating and balancing the wheels this weekend,
then check the tranny, then the driveshaft

Are there any other candidate parts which might generate unpleasant
vibrations only between 50-65 mph? It seems to happen only when the
motor is pushing the car, when I shift out of drive and let it coast
at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.

Ideas?

TIA
cf






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------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:09:23 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

At 10:50 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a W-25 '70 442 4-speed what would it take to make it a W-30?

Um, going back in time and checking the "W-30" box on the option sheet?  ;)

You can't make it a true W-30 car (you know, the one collectors pay big
bucks for, so that regular people like you and me can't afford them
anymore...), though you can certainly make it into a W-30 replica. Somebody
else posted the parts required for this; all told, that changeover would
probably cost you in the $2000 range. But it would still be a replica, and
trying to sell it as an original would constitute fraud.

Or, you could just glue on some W-30 emblems, and grind the lower leg off
the casting letter on your "E" heads; that's reportedly a popular route with
the sellers of some cars members of this list have encountered...

Now, if you question is about how you would go about getting the
*performance* of a W-30 car out of your current car, then upgrading your car
to W-30 specs would probably be one of the worst ways of doing it (well,
aside from dropping in a Ch*vy motor). Newer cams and intakes are much
better than the W-30 parts for overall performance, and cost a *lot* less.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Chris Fair <ChrisFair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:12:45 -0300
Subject: Ujoints?

Ah, universal joints. That makes sense. Mine are at least 5 years old,
if not more. They could well be worn. To test do I just grab the shaft
and see if it will shake?
cf

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:27:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash Painting

On Thu, 15 May 1997, Robert J. Lavey wrote:
> I'm having a rusty section of metal replaced around the windshield of my
> 1968 442 convertible.  What is the correct gloss level for the portion
> directly below the windshield?  Is the gloss level different for the
> vertical portion of the dash?

On my '68 it seems the section of the dash between the windshield and
crash pad is more dull than the vertical part of the dash. Whether
that's just from fading and dirt buildup over the years is tough to
say for sure.

  Should the white stripes be tape or painted
> on (the ones on it look like tape).

I think they are supposed to be painted from others I've seen.

> On a similar note, does anyone have any suggestions for how to keep the keys
> hanging from the ignition switch (in the dash on the '68s) from scratching
> up the dash?  I've been using a soft leather fob with only the ignition key
> for my hardtop '68 442, but it would be nice to have both keys on the same
fob.

The scratches are bad enough; the rattles are even worse! This is one of
the things about my '68 that drives me batty. The keyhole is directly
above a section of lower dashboard metal that juts outward and acts like
a drum skinfor the keys hanging down. Talk about annoying! I need to get
one of those big, leather-covered key cases I guess, rather than just
use a ring. I am also considering taking the biggest rectangle of
flexible fridge magnet I can get, painting it semi-black, and placing it
over the area to attempt to both dull the noise and protect the paint.
Has anyone ever tried this?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:32:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 engine dilemma

At 05:49 AM 5/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>A subscriber named Laura wrote in asking about a divorced choke for a
>425.  I believe a '69 Toronado engine I have has this style of choke
>coil on it.  Can someone please confirm if they are the same?.  If they

Hmmm, the well on a '66 Toronado intake I have seems much more shallow than
the one on my '69 Toro motor.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:48:17 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

>If I remember right my '72 442 had a locking steering column. I would
>think that this would bolt right into a '68. Anybody know for sure?

Jeez, I sure hope so. That way you could wire the ignition switch on
the column in series with the ignition switch on the dash, and it would
require _two_ keys to start the car.  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 16:20:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash Painting

>The scratches are bad enough; the rattles are even worse! This is one of
>the things about my '68 that drives me batty. The keyhole is directly
>above a section of lower dashboard metal that juts outward and acts like
>a drum skinfor the keys hanging down. Talk about annoying! I need to get
>one of those big, leather-covered key cases I guess, rather than just
>use a ring. I am also considering taking the biggest rectangle of
>flexible fridge magnet I can get, painting it semi-black, and placing it
>over the area to attempt to both dull the noise and protect the paint.
>Has anyone ever tried this?
>

Just a quick $0.02.  Could you try to mount the magnet behind the dash.  If
the magnet is strong enough it would keep the keys in place through the
dash, without beeing visible.

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:55:37 -0300
Subject: many o' questions

Hey everybody, I am new to the list and am now putting my questions
out for all to read... I have many of them.

First things first, I own

'62 Olds F-82( 215 V-8, 2bbl., 3 spd auto)
'68 Olds 442 hrdtop. ( 400, 4 bbl., 3 spd auto :(  )

I a 19 yr old. MARINE and am deployed aboard the USS BOXER and
currently we are in the Red Sea. My duty station is
Yuma, AZ. Home is Spokane, WA.
NOW... here are my disjointed
thoughts.

Has anyone done these???

Electric fan (442)
Gear drive (442)
Tranny swap / engine swap (F-85)
Roller rocker arms (442)
Overdrive tranny swap (442)
Tuned & ported heads (442) good results???

If you have done any of these send me your results good and
bad...

I am looking for a good Rochester 650 or 700 CFM (pref. is vaccum
secondaries,) to put on my 68 442. I currently have a holley general
4-bbl.

I was wondering if anyone has changed the stock intake for an
Edelbrock performer, and was there a big gain in economy or power?

Who has put on Headers??? What company do you recomend and did you
have to redesign the whole exhaust system or could you keep the
stock?

I have a THM-400 with I believe a 3.08 rear end. I want to keep some
ability to cruise on the Highway and the highest I want to go is
3.83. Any recomendations? I am also thinking of a small change with a
posi...

Finaly, who has the W-30 gear??? the

Filter canister
scoops
and tubbing

I would like to purchase them. I will change out the cam and put in a
328, want the OEM forced air and now some hokey contraption I could
make...

Appreciate it

------------------------------

From: Andy Lawrence <andrew@abcs.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 12:46:20 -0300
Subject: Engine swap

Please don't hate me for this, I have a 72 'S' hardtop and plan on
swaping the 350 for a 406 chevy...The reason for this is because the
406 was free from my brother...I have built the engine strong and plan
on stomping plenty of fords...My question is how will the engine bolt
up to the stock olds frame mounts?  Will I have to move the mounts or
find new ones???  What else will need to be changed??

    Andy
     72 'S'

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:12:18 -0300
Subject: Re: many o' questions - electric fans

LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3 X7402 wrote:
>
> Has anyone done these???
>
> Electric fan (442)
> Gear drive (442)
> Tranny swap / engine swap (F-85)
> Roller rocker arms (442)
> Overdrive tranny swap (442)
> Tuned & ported heads (442) good results???
>
>

Welcome LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3 X7402,
what's with the name, top secret mission eh...Anyway the electric fan
idea is a good one at that. I have a '72 442, 350 with a not so raspy
cam, but idling and given the time it does get hot, hotter than I want.
Especially with those hot summer runs. I installed just one, I think
it's a Hayden fan, fair size I think about 14". Only had enough room for
1 fan on account of my tranny oil cooler. The fan has a temp. sensor
(thermo. copper wire) that goes directly into the rad via the top output
port. It gives you special rubber ramps that have a slit cut into them
so that when the upper rad goese goes over top of it, it becomes a
sealed unit. Leaked a few time but with adequate tightening it stops. I
tend on changing this setup using the exsisting temp sensor to feed the
temp sensor on the fan. Just yet havn't found out how. The fan temp
sensor has an adjustable knob that allows you to set at what temp the
fan should turn on at . I have it set to 180. It works real well and
right now the wiring is directly hooked up into the battery so the fan
will remain on even after the car is turned off, incase the temp in the
rad is too high. Nice feature.
Kind of cool when the fan comes on all of a sudden, espicially after a
few hot runs, and you have shut the car off and begin to walk away from
it. At most the fans stay on no longer than 10 minutes, and that's when
it's really hot outside. I installed the fan in front of the rad, so
that it pushes air through the fan onto the engine. I could install in
on the inside but then I would have to remove the water pump fan, which
is not such a bad idea but then I would have to rely entirely on the
electric fan for cool, this way I always get cooling. It's a good
idea...

Fernanado
'72 442

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:41:56 -0300
Subject: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

This event runs this Saturday, May 17, from 8am to 3pm in South Beloit
Illinois at Finley Oldsmobile, 1790 Gardner Street (Rt 75 and I-90).

For the majority of the people, I-90 will be the road of
choice, and it's easy to get to.  Right at the IL and WI border, there is
an exit for Route 75/Beloit/South Beloit.  You get off there (only goes
west), and Finley is just about 1/8 to 1/4 mile down the road (on 75, on the
south side), not much else out there at the time, it's easy to find.


Chris Ruper and myself plan on meeting at the place below around 4pm. Probably
 stick around for an hour or two. OMMV!!

OTOH, there are three parts yards not too far away, so we, and anyone else,
might go there first, meet back at CB's in the evening.

The yards:
Crabtree's [W area] (1760 Fischer Rd, S. Beloit, IL 815-389-1505) says he has
3 to 4 '53 parts cars (conv, ht), a couple of '68, '69 fastbacks. Open til
around 8pm.

A&B [W area] (1664 Guetschow St, S. Beloit, IL 815-389-2326) say they have
lots of older stuff. Cutlass', Toros, maybe some Deltas. Open til 5pm?

Schoonover Auto Salvage [NE area] (2175 Thomas Rd, Beloit, WI 608-362-1427)
says not a lot of old stuff. A few sheet metal pieces, maybe a 442 bumper.
Open til noon or 1pm.


There's a place right in towards town (about 1/4-1/2 mile in on Rte. 75)
called Charlie Browns. As you follow 75 into Beloit, there's a stoplight and
on one side a Holiday Inn, and Charley Browns is on the other corner, just
next to a small car lot. It's not too bad, just a local "greasy spoon".
That's about the best/closest place in the general area (it's not too bad a
place, really).


Hope to see you there!!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:36:33 -0300
Subject: lost e-mail

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------2B701C2C3E0A
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Can anyone who replied to my questions please send info again
(address's,book names etc)I lost my e-mail
OOOOOOOPPPPPPPPPPPPPPSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!

                            THANKS!         71' 442

- --------------2B701C2C3E0A
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii; name="442 letter.htm"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="442 letter.htm"
Content-Base: "file:///C|/442%20letters/442%20letter.
htm"

<BASE HREF="file:///C|/442 letters/442 letter.htm">

I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and have

passed the car to me. It's in good condition and all it really needs is

some replacement of worn out parts (front end bushings,tires,paint job

etc). I'm not looking to make it a show car just a really clean 442. I

guess I'll get to my question. The car has had its shair of bumps and

grinds. It's had both front fenders replaced and a small amount of bondo

on the rear quarter panel. Over all it's a  clean car.







How much does bondo reduce the value of the

car?


It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do it

one last

time.


Where can I find factory info on this year car?(original decal

placement,options,pictures

etc)


I'm just starting to learn about 442's so if I seem fresh I am. I would

appreciate any info on 1971 442's or places I can find any

info.          Thanks     71' 442
- --------------2B701C2C3E0A--

------------------------------

From: "corey" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:35:58 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

Who makes a good 455 camshaft.  I have seen some Sealed Power grinds that
are pretty good.  Any recommendations

Corey D
dayc@ix.netcom.com

1970 Olds Cutlass S -455
1968 Delta 88 (2bbl 455)
1985 Olds Cutlass

- ----------
> From: Robert J. Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: engine modifications
> Date: Thursday, May 15, 1997 11:09 AM
>
> At 10:50 PM 5/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >I have a W-25 '70 442 4-speed what would it take to make it a W-30?
>
> Um, going back in time and checking the "W-30" box on the option sheet?
;)
>
> You can't make it a true W-30 car (you know, the one collectors pay big
> bucks for, so that regular people like you and me can't afford them
> anymore...), though you can certainly make it into a W-30 replica.
Somebody
> else posted the parts required for this; all told, that changeover would
> probably cost you in the $2000 range. But it would still be a replica,
and
> trying to sell it as an original would constitute fraud.
>
> Or, you could just glue on some W-30 emblems, and grind the lower leg off
> the casting letter on your "E" heads; that's reportedly a popular route
with
> the sellers of some cars members of this list have encountered...
>
> Now, if you question is about how you would go about getting the
> *performance* of a W-30 car out of your current car, then upgrading your
car
> to W-30 specs would probably be one of the worst ways of doing it (well,
> aside from dropping in a Ch*vy motor). Newer cams and intakes are much
> better than the W-30 parts for overall performance, and cost a *lot*
less.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:50:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash Painting

>> On a similar note, does anyone have any suggestions for how to keep the
keys >> hanging from the ignition switch (in the dash on the '68s) from
scratching >> up the dash?  I've been using a soft leather fob with only the
ignition key >> for my hardtop '68 442, but it would be nice to have both keys
on the same fob. > >The scratches are bad enough; the rattles are even worse!
This is one of >the things about my '68 that drives me batty. The keyhole is
directly >above a section of lower dashboard metal that juts outward and acts
like >a drum skinfor the keys hanging down. Talk about annoying! I need to get
>one of those big, leather-covered key cases I guess, rather than just >use a
ring. I am also considering taking the biggest rectangle of >flexible fridge
magnet I can get, painting it semi-black, and placing it >over the area to
attempt to both dull the noise and protect the paint. >Has anyone ever tried
this? > >Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova
Scotia, Canada > >

I had a similar problem with my 79 Bronco when I took it off road. The keys
would swing around and smack into the metal dash section. So I hot-glued
some magnets to a section of mouse pad (the black foam rubber kind) and
stuck it to the dash where the keys would hit. The keys still jingled when
they hit the pad but that was easily drowned out by the stereo. :)
.02

Ray
70 Cutlass Conv
70 442 Conv

------------------------------

From: "corey" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:42:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine swap

Check the PAW catalog they have some different motor mounts listed in there

Corey D
dayc@ix.netcom.com
70 Olds Cutlass S -455

- ----------
> From: Andy Lawrence <andrew@abcs.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Engine swap
> Date: Thursday, May 15, 1997 8:46 AM
>
> Please don't hate me for this, I have a 72 'S' hardtop and plan on
> swaping the 350 for a 406 chevy...The reason for this is because the
> 406 was free from my brother...I have built the engine strong and plan
> on stomping plenty of fords...My question is how will the engine bolt
> up to the stock olds frame mounts?  Will I have to move the mounts or
> find new ones???  What else will need to be changed??
>
>     Andy
>      72 'S'
>

------------------------------

From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@mail.bright.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:51:44 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

Walter,

I still have one of those 950 Holleys!! I've had it for ~15 years.  I don't
even know what those came off of originally.  I bought the complete
carbeurator for $5.00.  At the time I didn't really care what it was b/c I
figured any complete holley would be worth that if I only had to use the
bowl or something.  The carbeurator is really odd looking with the GIANT
vacuum diaphram and dual feed lines.  What were these carbeurators
originally used on???


Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.


 rAt 01:10 AM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>> Right, 600cfm! Thanks for the correction; I've only dealt with Q-jets and
>> the 3310 Holley carb. Isn't there also a 650cfm spreadbore Holley,
>designed
>> as a Q-jet replacement? Oddly enough, however, it too has mechanical
>linkage
>> and dual accelerator-pumps.
>>
>Holley made at least two versons of the spreadbore. I think they were both
>650 but I am not positive. One had the mechanical linkige and two pumps,
>this one is very common. They also made a vacum secondary one, I havent
>seen many of these.  The ª 6210 comes to mind but I am not sure which one
>it is. Does anyone remember the old 950 3 barrel Holley? I havent seen one
>of those in years.
>Walter
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:13:55 -0300
Subject: Posi units

Does anyone know of where I can find an original or aftermarket posi
unit for a 70 442 with the 12 bolt cover?

Thanks
Brad

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:19:56 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

Jim, I need a "crank" pulley, not an A/C pulley. If you have a crank pulley I
would like to buy it.
THANKS
Rick

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 18:02:38 -0300
Subject: Calling All OCA Members - Send Me Your URL

     We are expanding the OCA Web site w/ links this weekend.  I want to
     include as many OCA members web sites as possible so simply sent me A
     short 1 line description/name of your web site and the URL so I can
     link it up. i.e.:
     NAME - Bryceman's Oldsmobile Page
     URL - http://www.442.com
     I'm putting up the first cut of the page Saturday.

     Also any OCA chapters that have web sites, send them also.  I've
     already got H/OCA and the Northern Lights.  If you got your chapter's
     logo as a GIF or JPG, attach it to the message.

     Also to anyone who has http://www.erols.com/brad442/OCAHome.html as a
     link to the site, it's address will be changing to something else in
     the next couple weeks.  I'll send out a message a couple days prior.

     Thanks in advance

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/ocahome.html

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:46:30 -0300
Subject: Re: steering wheel

Since he got a steering wheel, how much ofr yours? I know it's w/o a horn
button.  Please let me know.

Mark Heiser
mpheiser@aol.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:50:12 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

At 07:19 PM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Jim, I need a "crank" pulley, not an A/C pulley. If you have a crank pulley I
>would like to buy it.
>THANKS
>Rick
>
Rick

        I have the crank pulley (3 grooves, for a A/C car).

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: JimmyDeee@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:50:59 -0300
Subject: Help! 1987 Cutlass doors Wanted:

I need 2 doors for my 1987 cutlass 442, prefer a pair without the lower
chrome molding, but I'll take whatever I can get. I call GM today- WOW $700
each new.
New england area or ship them. Any help greatly appreciated. how about phone
ª's for some Arizona Used parts yards that ship?

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:01:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibration

> I'm getting a weird vibration in what may be the driveline at about 50-65
> mph. Very disconcerting. I think it might be the driveshaft, tranny or a
> wheel out of balance.

Where do you notice the vibration:
    - in the seat bottom?
    - steering wheel?
    - door panel?
    - inside rear view mirror?

Is it audible or can it be felt?  Also, the frequency of vibration can
also be significant.  First order (once per revolution) tire imbalances
will usually be felt in the seat, whereas driveshaft related
perturbances will produce a vibration with a frequency about 3 times
higher.  From my experience with driveshaft imbalance and incorrect
working angles, the higher frequencies may be heard as a "boom", or felt
on something rigidly attached to the chassis, like the inside rearview
mirror.  I wouldn't suspect the tranmission unless it had been removed
and replaced recently, in which case, the torque converter to flywheel
orientation may be suboptimal.  It is relatively easy to remove the
driveshaft, insert a spare yolk, and operate the engine and tranmission to
see if the vibration persists.

> motor is pushing the car, when I shift out of drive and let it coast
> at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.

Hmmm... so the vibration is load sensitive.  This would tend to rule out
the tire/wheel assemblies.  I think your 98 has front and rear double
cardan (constant velocity) joints?  Joanne mentioned that correcting the
rear standing height cured a similar problem, however, with CV joints, it
is far less critical to match the front and rear operating angles.  The
joints may not have worn to the point where play has developed, instead,
one or more may be beginning to seize.  On my '77 DeVille, at ~240,000
miles, one of the front joints was beginning to get a little tight, which
was manifested as a booming at highway speeds.  Fortunately, it was
possible to repair this without tearing into the CV yoke assembly.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:15:10 -0300
Subject: Re: lost e-mail

Robert and Susan Colombo wrote:
>
> Can anyone who replied to my questions please send info again
> (address's,book names etc)I lost my e-mail
> OOOOOOOPPPPPPPPPPPPPPSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!
>
>                             THANKS!         71' 442
>
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and
> have passed the car to me. It's in good condition and all it really
> needs is some replacement of worn out parts (front end
> bushings,tires,paint job etc). I'm not looking to make it a show car
> just a really clean 442. I guess I'll get to my question. The car has
> had its shair of bumps and grinds. It's had both front fenders
> replaced and a small amount of bondo on the rear quarter panel. Over
> all it's a clean car. How much does bondo reduce the value of the car?
> It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do
> it one last time. Where can I find factory info on this year
> car?(original decal placement,options,pictures etc) I'm just starting
> to learn about 442's so if I seem fresh I am. I would appreciate any
> info on 1971 442's or places I can find any info. Thanks 71' 442

every car has bondo on it, even from the factory.

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:31:02 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

OL>>If I remember right my '72 442 had a locking steering column. I would
OL>>think that this would bolt right into a '68. Anybody know for sure?

OL>Jeez, I sure hope so. That way you could wire the ignition switch on
OL>the column in series with the ignition switch on the dash, and it would
OL>require _two_ keys to start the car.  :-)

OL>Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
OL>Datalogics, Inc.
OL>101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
OL>Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

I didn't think about that. Then again I've never really paid much
attention to the location of a '68s ignition switch. You could do like
Andrew said or you could hook one switch to a stun gun with the probes
in the bottom of the seat or you could put a 500w stereo in the car then
if the thief turns the wrong ignition switch have the stereo turn on
full blast playing country music. That aught to be enough for the thief
to change his ways.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:51:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 442 conv. 4 sale

- ----------
> From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
> To: Oldsmobile list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: 66 442 conv. 4 sale
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 9:41 PM
>
> I live in Janesville WI and seen a 66 442 convert. for sale in the local
> paper. I went and checked it out and the doors, fenders are real solid
> the quarters are only rusted behind the wheelwell about 2 inches, the
> top is good and the int. is good (dirty though) dk red buckets with auto
> on the floor. The engine is complete exept carb.  hasn't ran in 5 years
> original 400 with "B" heads, original hubcaps, they are asking 1500.  I
> think the shape its in it would be worth about 700. to me,  needing a
> complete resto.  maybe its worth more??? If your interested I can get
> his Phone ª and more info.
> Marty
> 68 442

Also in Spokane, WA, is a '66 Cutlass convertible and a parts car for
$1300.  I can get a ª if anyone is interested.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:11:33 -0300
Subject: Re: many o' questions

> I a 19 yr old. MARINE and am deployed aboard the USS BOXER and
> currently we are in the Red Sea. My duty station is
> Yuma, AZ. Home is Spokane, WA.
> NOW... here are my disjointed
> thoughts.
>

Nice to know there are a few Olds guys up here in Washington....

>
> I was wondering if anyone has changed the stock intake for an
> Edelbrock performer, and was there a big gain in economy or power?

I have a Performer on my 455, but I have no way of comparing it to stock.
But, I did the swap on my '73 Cutlass and I noticed a slight torque gain
like when I was going up a hill.
>
> Who has put on Headers??? What company do you recomend and did you
> have to redesign the whole exhaust system or could you keep the
> stock?

Hedman Hedders worked well on my '67 442, $150 for the set.  Probably
cheaper for a '68-'72 car.  I dunno about changing exhaust, though, as my
car had no exhaust when I got it.

> I have a THM-400 with I believe a 3.08 rear end. I want to keep some
> ability to cruise on the Highway and the highest I want to go is
> 3.83. Any recomendations? I am also thinking of a small change with a
> posi...
>
> Finaly, who has the W-30 gear??? the

All the choices of W-30 rearends are well past your 3.83 limit.  Although,
I know someone who has a '67 W-30 axle for sale, 4.33 gears.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:20:32 -0300
Subject: Re: 67' 442 rear end questions???

- ----------
> From: Markintime@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 67' 442 rear end questions???
> Date: Thursday, May 15, 1997 7:16 AM
>
> I'm trying to identify whether or not the rear end in my 67' 442 is a
posi
> unit or not and what ratio it is. According to my factory assembly manual
the
> code number should be stamped on the back of the right hand axle tube
> adjacent to the rear cover.  I can not locate this code anywhere. So my
> questions are as follows:
> 1. Where is the i.d. code on this rear end?
> 2. If the code can not be found, how can I determine the ratio and
whether or
> not the unit is a posi/ limited slip, without removing the cover?
> 3. It the rear is not a posi, what's involved to make it so?
>
> By the way, the rear end has a twelve bolt cover.

Jack up both rear wheels, and spin one of them.  If the other one spins the
same direction it is posi, if not, then it is not.  I do not know what is
involved is making a not posi axle a posi one.  I know that the carriers
have to be changed, but I'm not sure what else has to be done.  It's
probably easier to find a complete posi axle to swap in.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:36:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi units

At 07:13 PM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of where I can find an original or aftermarket posi
>unit for a 70 442 with the 12 bolt cover?
>
>Thanks
>Brad

If it's got 28-spline axles, Reider Racing (313/946-9231) can fix you up.
If it's got 31-spline axles, you'll have to find an original unit and have
it rebuilt.


Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:50:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

OL>As far as the cfm rating, I would not know. Some suggested that 650 was too
OL>small for 425. I have known this. This carburetor came from my brother for
OL>$50. Price was right. The 650cfm and '76 intake are just a medium term
OL>upgrade untill such a time as the money thing allows an Edelbrock Grade
OL>Racing (sorry) manifold. BTW if anyone can say for certain that this combo
i OL>NOT an improvement over a Rochester 2GC, please speak up.

OL>Karl Aune
OL>1965 Dynamic 88

I switch to a Q-jet on my Dynamic. There was no noticeable improvement
in performance (never took it to the track) other than the deep 4 barrel
moan . The main reason for the lack of improvement I attribute to the
small single exhaust. If I remember right the 2GC that came off was
around 460-470 cfm. Didn't you say that the engine the manifold came off
of had an HEI in it? That will make a noticeable improvement in power
and economy. For a stock engine and drive train you will be better of
with a little smaller carb because it will improve low end torque.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
Daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 21:20:33 -0300
Subject: 1987 Cutlass Doors wanted (fwd)

Forwarding this... cannot use the word "H*LP" in the subject line,
remember, or majordomo sends it to me...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:Thu, 15 May 1997 19:50:59 -0300
From:JimmyDeee@aol.com
Subject: 1987 Cutlass doors Wanted:

I need 2 doors for my 1987 cutlass 442, prefer a pair without the lower
chrome molding, but I'll take whatever I can get. I call GM today- WOW $700
each new.
New england area or ship them. Any help greatly appreciated. how about phone
ª's for some Arizona Used parts yards that ship?

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:34:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

OL>     I don't know if you were a member back then, but around Oct-Nov last
OL>     year (search the archives for "Project Olds Craft") we all had the
OL>     same complaint about Camaro Craft so I decided to call for a
OL>     letter-writing campaign, asking everyone to try to syncronize their
OL>     letters around Dec 1st to make the biggest impact.  I don't know how
OL>     many people finally wrote in, probably only a half-dozen or so.

OL>     If you think it'll make a difference, I'm all for trying this again,
OL>     perhaps with a different magazine or a manufacturer this time.

 I wasn't. I would like to do this. Either today or tomorrow is my last
day with my current isp. My new provider wont have service in this area
for a week or two. You guys oops! I mean people can go ahead and pick a
target and hopefully I'll be back in time to send a letter to that
company. Maybe this is something we should do every couple of months. If
we can plan things far enough in advance somebody could also contact
O.C.A. so maybe it could be announced in JWO so that hopefully O.C.A.
members not on this list could also send in letters.Tuesday I got a
renewal notice from Car Craft. I plan on sending them a letter stating
that I wont be renewing and will be switching to Muscle Car Review
because they know that there is cars other than Chevy in the world. I
will suggest that if they carrried cars other than Chevy's that maybe
they would get people other than Chevy owners buying their magazine.

When I run spell check it gives me chewy and chivy  as replacements for
Chevy. Anybody own a chewy chivy?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 21:43:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Assorted Topics

Richard Staley wrote:
>
> Richard Staley wrote:
> >
> > Nick Gomez wrote:
> > >
> > > Are there any Olds people here from Dallas? I know there are, I've seen
> > > some people mention it. I saw a beautiful period mid 50's Olds Super 88
(I > > > guess) dark green with scallops and smoothies, the whole custom bit.
Really > > > beautiful car. I've seen it at Keller's Drive In (every Saturday
night, > > > lots of cool old cars, one club, and a lot of regular guys) on
Northwest > > > Highway, and at a car show in Mesquite. Is the owner on the
list? > > > > > > I've been looking around some of the local yards looking for
some front > > > disc brakes for my car. What are the opinions on a possible
swap? These > > > drums really don't cut it, disc brakes are so nice. I'd like
to get > > > everything from the spindle outward, as long as my stock spindle
and the > > > donor match up. Also, the booster and dual master cylinder, as
well as the > > > proportioning valve. I think this would be a somewhat
difficult swap, but > > > I'd like to attempt it. What are some possible
problems? I'd like to get > > > big rotors from a Custom Cruiser or soemthing.
Any suggestions as to what > > > else I should look for? I'm worried about my
wheels fitting on the new > > > rotors, the spacing of the bolts may not be
the same. > > > > > > I've seen some vintage Olds at the local yards. A 64 or
65 Olds Cutlass > > > convertible, pretty trashed. For Texas cars, some of
these sure are rusted > > > out. Some later Cutlass' but nothing spectacular.
A new yard just opened > > > up, lots of untouched cars, most of them run! Let
me know if you need any > > > searching. > > > > > > Also, I thought about
getting a posi rearend for my car. I know any 10 bolt > > > or 12 bolt I find
will not be long enough, so I though about just getting > > > really wide
tires to avoid having to lengthen the axle. Tub the wheelwells? > > > Sure,
why not. =) Just dreaming, of course. > > > > > > Well, take care, and keep in
touch! > > > Nick > > > > > > 1965 Olds Ninety Eight Town Sedan > > > Dallas,
Texas > > > > Hey Nick I live in Arlington Texas, where did the new yard open >
> up?(their phone ª if possible)Where in Dallas do you live? > > > >
RS > >         '70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 21:42:57 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

> > I have a W-25 '70 442 4-speed what would it take to make it a W-30?
> >         Thanks in advance,
> >           RS
> >         '70 442 4-speed
>
> To make the engine a W-30 you will need a set of F cast heads. A W-455
> factory aluminum intake. A cam of 328 degrees duration on intake and
> exhaust with .475 lift on both. 10.5:1 compression ratio and a carb that
> is jetted for the cam.

Glad you have the OAI setup, it really makes the car look right
(menacing).  A few things missing from the above list are red inner
fenderwells and the removal of about 50 lbs of sound deadener.  Oh yeah,
don't forget to blueprint the engine.
As others have stated though, it would not be a W30, but a look alike.
And the performance would be below what you could get with aftermarket
parts that cost less.
I have a '71 with all the nice options (OAI, dual gate, wing) that will
get a curent grind cam.  The car has the W30 stripes, but that is as far
as it will go to being a W30.

> To run this engine with any authority your rear end ratio must be at
> least 3.90 or better.

Hmmm, the 3.42 was standard with a 3.91 optional (W30 only).  My 3.23
does quite well and still allows me to cruise the highway at 80mph while
turning about 3200rpm.
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:28:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibration

> I was thinking about rotating and balancing the wheels this weekend,
> then check the tranny, then the driveshaft
>
> Are there any other candidate parts which might generate unpleasant
> vibrations only between 50-65 mph? It seems to happen only when the
> motor is pushing the car, when I shift out of drive and let it coast
> at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.
>
> Ideas?
>
> TIA
> cf

Here is a real shadetree old timer trick. Put a hose clamp around the
drive shaft just snug enough not to move by itself and (with the drive
wheels off the ground) run the car up to the speed your having trouble
at. What will happen is the hose clamp will seek the balance point. If
it works just tighten the clamp. Presto, your drive shaft is balanced.

P.S. This is not a joke.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 22:53:46 -0300
Subject: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

Well, after not all that long a period of time of being on the market, I
sold my 64 Skylark convertible tonight. Very mixed feelings about it. The
thing that gets to me is that it really is a great-looking car, especially
with the top down, and it really hurt to see the new owner drive off in it
- -- the first time I ever saw anyone else drive the car, in fact. But
looking good was the best thing it did. It had the typical convertible
shake, and the little Buick V-8, while a fine motor, wasn't a match for
the Rocket power in my Olds. The ride dynamics of the 64 just weren't up
to those of the Cutlass either, and the slow power steering and manual
brakes made it feel dated. So it wasn't as much fun to drive and as a
result it didn't get driven very much at all. Basically, I had gotten
spoiled by Olds and I had fallen out of love with the Buick.

So now it's gone and all that remains are the mostly good memories of the
times I had in it. The cash gives me some options too -- whether they
involve a house or another car is too early to say. I'm glad to say that
it leaves me in much better condition than when I acquired it, so I've
done my bit to help keep another piece of history alive. I think its gone
to a good home, so that makes it a little easier to take. But it's still
hard to say goodbye. So long, babe. The Cutlass and I will miss you.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 22:57:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

> OL>     I don't know if you were a member back then, but around Oct-Nov
last
> OL>     year (search the archives for "Project Olds Craft") we all had
the
> OL>     same complaint about Camaro Craft so I decided to call for a
> OL>     letter-writing campaign, asking everyone to try to syncronize
their
> OL>     letters around Dec 1st to make the biggest impact.  I don't know
how
> OL>     many people finally wrote in, probably only a half-dozen or so.
>
> OL>     If you think it'll make a difference, I'm all for trying this
again,
> OL>     perhaps with a different magazine or a manufacturer this time.

I'm all for this, and while we're at it, perhaps we could target HOT ROD
also.  I don't subscribe to Car Craft, but to anyone who does, is it a good
mag?  Even though HOT ROD is mainly Ch*vy, it has great tech articles that
can apply to all GM cars.  Any suggestions on other worthwhile rodding mags
out there?  I would like to get other besided HOT ROD.

Thanks

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:03:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Radios

On Wed, 14 May 1997, Dan Williams wrote:
> radio that I wanted to use for my 68 convertible.  It didn't work.  No
> sound at all.  Sometimes the speaker will thump when I turn it on,
> sometimes it won't.  I did get the wonderbar to work.  Those things are
> really cool when they seek.  Anyway, when I let the wonderbar tune to a
> station and I crank the volume all the way up, I can actually hear the
> station comming out of the radio (not the speaker - It is 15 feet
> away).  That seemed pretty strange.  Does anybody have any pointers on
> what I can test on this radio?  Also, all the radios have a blue wire
> that connects near the base of the tuning knob.  What is this for.  The
> radios work without it.  I assumed it was for grounding.  The strange
> thing is the blue wire on the back of the radios is used for the speaker
> lead.

The blue wire you're talking about is the lead for the rear speaker. If
the radio has a fader control on the outside of the tuning knob, are you
sure you had it turned for the front speaker? If the isn't a fader
control there then there should be a little U-shaped shunt jumper where
the fader would plug in.

With no thump in the speaker it sounds like the power circuit is having a
problem. Those round diode things marked "Delco" that are held in place
with 2 little screws are probably suspect. That's about as much as I can
tell you about radios... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:12:19 -0300
Subject: Re:  Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

At 10:05 AM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Excuse me for being ignorant about the early F-85s, but don't they share
>the transaxle set-up used in the Tempest series?  I was under the
>impression that B-O-P all used the same parts in that body with the
>exception of engines.  If I am correct, you should be able to find a
>donor parts car at the very least.  There were quite a few Tempest 4
>speeds of that era running around when I was in high school.
>
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2
>
>
Without looking I don't think so.  The tempest was a kind of one-of-a-kind
car, diriveline wise.  The engine was a V8 with one set of cylinders
removed, leaving a 4 cyl..  It used a piece of 'wire rope' (flexible drive
line) for a propellor shaft, and indeed has a transaxle.

I think the Tempest was unique in its tempestuosness, and this part of its
design.

The idea was to have a flat floor without a transmission hump.

There MAY be some body components that are shared, but I would think nothing
of the extraordinary parts of the drive line would interchange.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:52:25 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

corey wrote:
>
> Who makes a good 455 camshaft.  I have seen some Sealed Power grinds that
> are pretty good.  Any recommendations
>
> Corey D
> dayc@ix.netcom.com
>
> 1970 Olds Cutlass S -455
> 1968 Delta 88 (2bbl 455)
> 1985 Olds Cutlass
>
> ----------
I like the factory grinds. If you want something else, Super car unltd.
makes a factory race cam. And ofcourse Mondello has a whole selection.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:50:20 -0300
Subject: Re: many o' questions

>
> Has anyone done these???
>
 Electric fan (442) Big blocks make BIG heat.
 Gear drive (442) Mondello sells a bolt on. Noisy though.
> Tranny swap / engine swap (F-85)
 Roller rocker arms (442) Just bought a set of Mondello 7200s. Had to
hack up the notched valve covers to make em fit.
 Overdrive tranny swap (442) stories abound of 5 speeds and 700 R4
swaps.
 Tuned & ported heads (442) good results??? Porting will (if done
properly) can yeild tons of power. A full drag porting job is advertised
as adding 100 horses.
>
> If you have done any of these send me your results good and
> bad...
>

>

> Who has put on Headers??? What company do you recomend and did you
> have to redesign the whole exhaust system or could you keep the
> stock?
I had headers once....ONCE. The thing to watch for is A/C and tranny
line clearence. Also, invest in a heat sheild for the starter and a
couple of spare starters.
> I have a THM-400 with I believe a 3.08 rear end. I want to keep some
> ability to cruise on the Highway and the highest I want to go is
> 3.83. Any recomendations? I am also thinking of a small change with a
> posi...
If you go with the W-30 cam, you might get away with the 3.80 range.
Might I suggest the '68 Hurst/Olds cam? If you can use this cam (check
your block angle) you can work with a 3.42 or 3.73 gear.

> Appreciate it

No problem

Danny

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:18:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibration

At 02:31 PM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Oldmopeople,
>I'm getting a weird vibration in what may be the driveline at about 50-65
>mph. Very disconcerting. I think it might be the driveshaft, tranny or a
>wheel out of balance.
>
>Do you have any advice about what order I should eliminate the candidates?
>
>I was thinking about rotating and balancing the wheels this weekend,
>then check the tranny, then the driveshaft
>
>Are there any other candidate parts which might generate unpleasant
>vibrations only between 50-65 mph? It seems to happen only when the
>motor is pushing the car, when I shift out of drive and let it coast
>at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.
>
>Ideas?
>
>TIA
>cf
>
>
If this is a recent occurrance, and sort of came on all at once, my first
look would be to the U/V joints in the prop shaft.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:14:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

At 11:33 AM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Excuse me for being ignorant about the early F-85s, but don't they share the
>transaxle set-up used in the Tempest series?
>
>          Nope.  We've touched on this thread in the past, so I
>          apologize for any repetition, but the early Cutlass,
>          Special, Tempest, and Corvair all shared the same body
>          shell, but used very different drivetrains.  The Corvair
>          obviously used the rear engine and transaxle.  The Tempest
>          used a front engine, but an adaptation of the Corvair
>          transaxle.  The Buick and Olds versions both used
>          conventional front engine/trans and live axle designs.
>
>          PS:  The cc:Mail spellchecker just came up with
>          "transsexual" as an alternative for "transaxle"
>
>          Joe Padavano
>          jpada@orbital.com
>
>          66 442
>          68 W-30
>          69 H/O
>          70 W-30
>
>
>
Sort of reminds one of the time, Loni Anderson was described as being the
most cunningly successful recepient of transsexual surgery on the planet.

Them Swedes are good.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 20:59:52 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

>
>         Should I change the engine into a W-30 or should I leave it alone? I
> don't know if the engine in my car now has matching ª's.
>
>           RS
>         '70 442 4-speed

What kind of driving do you intend to do? You can change the cam and
rear end gear and that will give you a lot of go. The F heads and W-455
is a status thing. For the 1400 bucks I put into my F heads I coulda
made a set of Es flow better maybe. But there is something about seeing
those Big Fs staring at you though. And more importantly, it's what you
want. I've toyed with the idea of doing the W-30 thing with my other
4-4-2. But I've got one documented W-30 and that's enough.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 21:07:15 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

> Hmmm, the 3.42 was standard with a 3.91 optional (W30 only).  My 3.23
> does quite well and still allows me to cruise the highway at 80mph while
> turning about 3200rpm.
> --
> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

The 3.42 standard gear was used with a tamer engine. A W-30 with A/C had
at most a 3.42 and a milder cam. You could run that engine with that
gear but it would not be as quick off the line.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:46:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Dash Painting

>
>   Should the white stripes be tape or painted
> > on (the ones on it look like tape).
>
> I think they are supposed to be painted from others I've seen.

They are supposed to be taped on.  If you find any original 68 442s, you
can usually make out where the tape used to run for the stripes.  I've
examined quite a few of these cars and they always had tape.

>
> > On a similar note, does anyone have any suggestions for how to keep the
keys > > hanging from the ignition switch (in the dash on the '68s) from
scratching > > up the dash?

That is THE most annoying thing about the 68s.  I like the magnet idea.
I think I will try that one.  I have tried the big leater key ring, and
that really doesn't work to well.  The trick I use is to jam the keys
with the fat end pointing down, into the key ring.  The can be pushed
down into the ring far enough that they point up and do not move, unless
you hit a large bump.  This is hard to describe, but I think everyone
can figure it out.  The other thing that I was planning to try was to
buy one of those detachable key rings.  I could detach all of the other
keys and the ring, when the key is in the ignition.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:55:05 -0300
Subject: Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

David Brown wrote:
>
> This event runs this Saturday, May 17, from 8am to 3pm in South Beloit
> Illinois at Finley Oldsmobile, 1790 Gardner Street (Rt 75 and I-90).

Any idea how big this show will be?  It looks as if it is a 2 hour drive
for me.  I have plans for Sat., but I'll see if I can make it.  If I
can't, can you guys keep an eye out for any 68 parts in those yards.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 16:11:29 -0300
Subject: Overheating

     Well, not _over_ heating, but the '84 H/O is definitely running a bit
     hot these last few days.  Here are the symptoms, I'm hoping someone
     here has had a similar problem in the past.

     Normally, it runs right at 180 (180 degree thermostat) sometimes going
     to 190 or even courting 200 when it's getting a real workout (like
     climbing a mountain pass).  Recently it has been leveling off at 180
     (when the thermostat opens) but then slowly creeps up over time.
     Idling seems to cause it to rise fastest, a leisurely cruise at 40mph
     or so keeps it in check at about 190, and freeway speeds seem to leave
     it unaffected (temp neither rises nor falls, but then again I haven't
     spent more than 5 miles on the freeway recently).  The cooling system
     was flushed last fall, currently running 50/50 dexcool/distilled water
     with watter wetter.  The radiator is a 1 1/2 yr old Modine 3-row,
     which looks almost brand new on the inside.  No water in the oil or
     oil in the water that I can tell.  Coolant level is fine and it hasn't
     been consuming coolant.

     I'm thinking it could be three things, I hope someone can narrow it
     down, or suggest a fourth.  I just got laid off last Friday (anyone
     wanna hire a Novell CNE?), so I don't want to make any expensive
     mistakes:

     1) Thermostat.  Cheap and easy to replace, but I've never heard of one
     doing something like this.  I've had them just stop working before,
     but never only partially open.

     2) Fan clutch.  I don't see any silicone leakage around the fan
     clutch, and when the engine is shut off warm and I give the fan a good
     spin by hand it doesn't freewheel more than 1/4 turn or so.  The guy
     at the radiator shop said to do that and if it spun more than 1 1/2
     times it was bad.

     3) Water pump.  There is no leakage out of the weep holes that are
     supposed to leak when the seals go, but there are some corrosion
     "tracks" as evidence that something has leaked out of there in the
     past.  No noise coming from that area that would indicate bad bearings
     either.

     Thanks in advance!  I hope I can get this licked within a week,
     supposed to be taking a trip to Montana, land of scared sheep and no
     speed limits.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª676
********************************
