To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #641


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 30 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 641

4-4-2 for Sale
Console Shifter
Radiatin' Hoses (Re: Olds Q Here Too!! )
New Archive Set Available
Re: Tires
Re[2]: I need more help 83 cutlass su
Re: Console shifter
Re: 4-4-2 for Sale
Re: Console shifter
Re: Console Shifter
442 For SALE  ***CHEAP***
Re: 'yardin'
Re[2]: warriors better tire makers ????
Re: Console shifter
'83-'84 H/O Spoilers
Re: 4-4-2 for Sale
RE: 'yardin'
Re: 'yardin'
Re: 1982 307 V8 question
Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Re: Tires
Rear-End Swap
66 F-85, L-69, W-30, etc.
TH350 vs TH400
RE: Tires purchased, and thread drift. . .
Re: 455 Manifold and carb
Re: 455 Manifold and carb
Re[2]: 1982 307 V8 question
Re: '83-'84 H/O Spoilers
Request for Links
64 tire recomendation
Console shifter
Re: 70w-30 4sale
Molded Rad Hoses
Re: exhaust manifold
ADMIN: List Abuse (fwd)
Re: 'yardin'
RE: new member
RE: Rear Wing
RE: new member
Re: ADMIN: List Abuse (read at your discretion)
striptune.zip
Re: Re[2]: Valves
Re: HEATER
Re: Ralley Pac, 69 Olds 442
Re: striptune.zip
Re: 1982 307 V8 question
Re: Re[2]: Valves
Radiator Hose Source
Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Re: striptune.zip
A vs. G body
Re: Tires

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:17:30 -0300
Subject: 4-4-2 for Sale

I was just on the phone with a friend of mine.  He recently acquired a '68
4-4-2 project (his favorite year) and as a result is selling a '66 4-4-2
project.  It is 90%+ complete, 400 ci eng, A/T and rather dismanteled, but
what is there IS a decent project.  He wants $1950.  If anyone is
interested, it is located in rural Illinois, a bit less than 50 miles from
Saint Louis.  If interested call Paul: (618)282-6686.

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:36:08 -0300
Subject: Console Shifter

Thanks for the info guys. I had tried to pull it of, but I thought
that the pin pushed in not pull out, maybe thats why I could not
get it off. I will try that ª ( 22525555) at the dealer. Someone
said that the computer refers to the color as "claret".. What color
is that ? I think that the insides is busted, the push button works
fine.  Does anybody know if the actual shifter can be tighten or
realigned the little light on the inside kinda  goes back and forth
between  "R" & "D" it will not shift by itself but you can move it
slightly, I never use  "D" "2" "1" anyway I just keep it in
Overdrive...


Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:41:02 -0300
Subject: Radiatin' Hoses (Re: Olds Q Here Too!! )

> For molded radiator hoses it is sometime possible to take the old hose to a
> store with a large number in stock and compare.  There is often one with all
> the same bends, and sizes on the ends, but with the ends a bit longer or
> shorter.  I've found a good replacment several times, and all I had to do
> was cut off a bit of extra hose where it entered the rediator nipple.
>

Hmmm, I didn't think of that; although the parts guy I happened to talk to
made mention of "hundreds of hoses out back", and he might not be the best
employee to ask to compare hoses for me given other aspects of his demeanor.

However, thanks for the suggestion, Wiz!  I may just do that.  Not this
weekend, however, nor the next.  My time is not my own :P

P.S. I will also look in my catologues (eg. Year One, etc) at home this
evening
     for these pieces; I just thought I'd ask the list at large in case anyone
     has had experience with molded hoses that were ordered from any of the
     'usual suspects' :)

P.P.S. To Bob Barry & other list member from NE -- I *will* be able to make it
       to the Sub Shop near Berejik on Saturday, May 10th.  Assuming that my
       jury duty appt. on May 9th (also my 5th Weddin' Anniv.) doesn't put me
       on a sensationalized criminal case with months of sequestering...


Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:47:59 -0300
Subject: New Archive Set Available

I have uploaded another archive, this one covering November 1995,
to my website http://www.calcon.net/~easton.

The only remaining material to be archived is the first 11 days
of December 1995, after that the regular digest option kicked in.
That material is already available.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:34:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Tires

I worked for Michelin Tire Corp. for 11 years. I know the quality,
inspections, tolerances and testing done on these tires. This is the only
tire I trust on my 68 Toro.

                                        Daniel Hall
                                        cdhall@MCI2000.com



- ----------
> From: C.R.F. <wizkid@inlink.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Tires
> Date: Wednesday, April 30, 1997 1:08 PM
>
> At 01:51 PM 4/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Hi All,
> >   I have been reading some e-mail on tires latley and just have
> >a question of my own. I am in need of replacing the tires on my 70
> >olds and was wondering if anybody has ever used Bridgestones. If you
> >have or have not please respond on if you liked them or not?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Tom Williams
> >70-W31
> >OCAª28886
> >
> >
> Yea I bought 12 of them one day.  4 when on my van, 4 went on my dad's
Delta
> and 4 went on my brothers La Sabre (another sword).  Within 3 months 11
had
> failed.  If they don't give YOU at least $100. ea when they sell you a
> Bridgestone it's price is way to high.  Espcially when two of them
> disintigrate in the middle of Nebraska, and ...  get the picture, and I
> heartly recommend Michelins.  AS a matter of fact when the Bridgestones
were
> blowing up, my tire guy eventually replaced them all with Michelins.  At
no
> cost either.
>
> The Wiz
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 07:39:04 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: I need more help 83 cutlass su

     First, I'd check for spark.  Attach a spare plug to any plug wire and
     hold the side of the plug to a ground (the block, alternator bracket,
     etc) with a pair of INSULATED pliers while someone cranks the car.
     You should see it spark and hear the crackle as it does so.  If it
     doesn't spark, I'd suspect the HEI module, which is about the last
     piece of the ignition system you haven't changed yet.  Or you can
     check the spark the easy way like my dad did once to me when I was
     little, he was fixing the lawn mower and handed me the plug wire and
     said "here, hold this" as he pulled the cord.  I got zapped and
     jumped, and he said thanks that's what I wanted to know.  At least on
     a small engine like that it's not enough to hurt you.

     Second, I'd check if you have fuel.  Can you smell gas in the
     carburetor?  When you crank the engine and pump the accelerator you
     should see the accelerator pump squirt a bit of fuel into the carb
     barrels.  If not, suspect the fuel pump.

     Not an exhaustive list, but this should get you started in the right
     direction. . .

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: I need more help 83 cutlass su
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/30/97 9:15 AM

It stopped running for good after it started up ,shook badly misfired a
couple times and DIED!

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:56:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Console shifter

Clayton Pierce wrote:
>
> Yes, if anybody knows the part number for that shifter, please tell us!
> Also, I've got another question.  Is it possible to replace just the
> plastic piece inside the staff portion of the shifter (the piece that is
> pushed down when you press the button on the handle to allow you to shift
> the gears.  If so, does anybody know the part number for what I just
> described.  If not, what is the part number for the whole shifter staff
> (the chrome part).
>
> Peter, as far as removing the handle, it is really quite easy.  First, you
> will notice that there is a little two prong pin in the right side of the
> base of the shifter handle.  You need to pull this out (it shouldn't be
> int TOO tight, a thin-blade straight screwdriver should probably do the
> trick.  Now you should be able to gently pull the shifter handle off of
> the staff (you might have to wiggle it a bit while using upward pressure.
> Be careful as the shifter handle you already have will probably make a
> good spare and the plastic that holds it on may be quite brittle.  If for
> some reason you want to take the handle further apart, you can remove the
> chrome beauty rings on it by prying them (carefully) off and then you
> should be able to acces the handle's "innards".
>
> Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> Clayton Pierce,
> The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
> zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
>

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Clayton,

The part your talking about is part ª559978 and is called "extention".
It goes down the shift handle shaft and screws in at the bottom. This is
an adjustment part, after you screw it down and replace the t-handle and
test the button until the shift lock releases, then one more half turn.
It may take a couple times till you get it just right, so be careful
taking the t-handle on and off. Also, to ensure proper adjustment the
t-handle must be all the way down and the clip in place each time.

good luck !
- --

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/30/97)

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:59:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 for Sale

At 02:17 PM 4/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I was just on the phone with a friend of mine.  He recently acquired a '68
>4-4-2 project (his favorite year) and as a result is selling a '66 4-4-2
>project.  It is 90%+ complete, 400 ci eng, A/T and rather dismanteled, but
>what is there IS a decent project.  He wants $1950.  If anyone is
>interested, it is located in rural Illinois, a bit less than 50 miles from
>Saint Louis.  If interested call Paul: (618)282-6686.
>
And I guess I forgot, it's a convertible...

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:56:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Console shifter

>Peter, I replaced the handle in my '87 Cutlass Supreme and it went
>pretty smoothly.

I had to do the same thing on the '82 after managing to crack the old
one somehow. Decided to go through proper channels at the Olds dealer
in case they had one, before heading for the junkyard, and was amazed
to find that they did have it, correct color and all. But...

>The funny thing was, it didn't fit like the old one. That little U
>clip wouldn't go back in but it didn't matter because the handle fit
>pretty tight.

Yes! Exactly! I had the same problem and couldn't figure out why, since
I had an OEM replacement and all... I still have the unused U clip in
my toolbox somewhere.

Did you also find that you didn't need to push the release button in
anymore; it was now permanently stuck in For Your Convenience?  ;-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 15:03:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Console Shifter

At 02:36 PM 4/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Thanks for the info guys. I had tried to pull it of, but I thought
>that the pin pushed in not pull out, maybe thats why I could not
>get it off. I will try that ª ( 22525555) at the dealer. Someone
>said that the computer refers to the color as "claret".. What color
>is that ? I think that the insides is busted, the push button works
>fine.  Does anybody know if the actual shifter can be tighten or
>realigned the little light on the inside kinda  goes back and forth
>between  "R" & "D" it will not shift by itself but you can move it
>slightly, I never use  "D" "2" "1" anyway I just keep it in
>Overdrive...
>
>
>Peter L. House
>'87 Salon
>phouse@feith.com
>
>
>
Claret is the color of Claret Wine, maybe that French guy can explain wine
to you.  Anyway, it's a lighter shade of maroon.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:06:51 -0300
Subject: 442 For SALE  ***CHEAP***

Well, the 442 that was in last weeks paper Here is stil there!  And
evidentally there were not many callers as he has lowered the price a
grand!  Here's what info I've got...

1966 Olds 442
body good
int. exc.
eng. needs work
56k miles
$2000 or best offer
(423) 357-8641

This car is in Church Hill Tennessee which is near Kingsport, Johson City
and Bristol.  It is up to you to contact this guy if you are interested.
I'll probably be able to take a look at the car and see what kind of shape
it's in, but you'll have to talk to this guy first so he knows your
interested.  Hurry up if you are interested, I'd say this car is going to
go quick at just $2k!  I have nothing to do with this car and I'm not
getting paid for this etc.... I'm just passing on an ad I saw today in the
local paper.


Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:43:04 -0300
Subject: Re: 'yardin'

Clayton,
What part of the country is the yard located?

Art Fuller

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:19:50 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: warriors better tire makers ????

I know I've been as guilty as anyone else at one time or another, but this is
going down the road of most usenet lists.

My view is that the world was at war against three powers that wanted to rule
the world as a dictatorship. The world won, and every one of the Allied powers
 put their butt on the line. We should be thankful for everyone's sacrifice.
Don't measure it.

Good thing there is a delete key.


OLDS RELATED:
Remember the problems with radial tires in the early to middle 80's (maybe
late 70's)? Wasn't this when they first cam into widespread use? There were a
lot of bad quality tires being made that resulted in belt shifting and
seperation back then. Like most new technologies in widespread use, there
were some growing pains. You might want to give some of those problem
manufacturers another chance, provided they give a decent warranty. But, it's
your money, not mine, so FWIW!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:23:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Console shifter

>
> Clayton,
>
> The part your talking about is part ª559978 and is called "extention".
> It goes down the shift handle shaft and screws in at the bottom. This is
> an adjustment part, after you screw it down and replace the t-handle and
> test the button until the shift lock releases, then one more half turn.
> It may take a couple times till you get it just right, so be careful
> taking the t-handle on and off. Also, to ensure proper adjustment the
> t-handle must be all the way down and the clip in place each time.


Thanks bunches Bill,
I called Olds and the part was just $1.60... so you can bet I ordered one
RIGHT AWAY!  This is one thing that I've been putting off as I figured
that I'd have to have the entire chrome shaft.  I asked about the shifter
part number as well.  The shifter is still available, and the current
price is $18.35.  At that, I guess that mine is good enough to last me a
little while :-)  At least until my next paycheck :-)

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 08:54:46 -0300
Subject: '83-'84 H/O Spoilers

     I posted a while ago about this, but didn't hear back from anyone.
     Thought I'd try it again.

     A friend of mine who is a sculpter has the capability of duplicating
     pieces through making a mold.  She in turn has another friend who does
     this for a living, including making metal castings (I wonder if he
     could reproduce something like a nice ported, race-prepped pair of
     aluminum D heads?).  The idea hit me to make the spoiler "wingtips"
     for the '83-'84 H/O's, since I know people are out there looking for
     these since they tend to fall off.  I've seen plenty of wanted ads for
     them, trouble is you have to buy the whole spoiler, and they're not
     available anymore anyways.

     Anyways, would anyone else be interested in a pair?  I'm told they
     could be duplicated so well that you couldn't tell they were fakes,
     and that he'd need to make about $300 profit to recover his costs.  I
     figure if I can get together a few people who are interested in a pair
     at about $100/pair then we might have a chance.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 15:39:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 for Sale

C.R.F. wrote:
>
> At 02:17 PM 4/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >I was just on the phone with a friend of mine.  He recently acquired a '68
> >4-4-2 project (his favorite year) and as a result is selling a '66 4-4-2
> >project.  It is 90%+ complete, 400 ci eng, A/T and rather dismanteled, but
> >what is there IS a decent project.  He wants $1950.  If anyone is
> >interested, it is located in rural Illinois, a bit less than 50 miles from
> >Saint Louis.  If interested call Paul: (618)282-6686.
> >
> And I guess I forgot, it's a convertible...
>
> The Wiz
yes a friend of mine is looking for a 66 please give more info. and
location   http://hanthorn@inwave.com

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 17:13:51 -0300
Subject: RE: 'yardin'

Y'know when I think about it, I'll bet I mis-identified that Cutlass "S".
After all, what would a '67 to '68 350 be doing with "7A" heads?  I'll bet
that car was from the early 70's or something.  Either that or it's had a
motor swap.  Next time I go down there (probably this weekend) I'll get
the VIN ª and decode it to find out for sure.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
The ***OFFICIAL*** Editor of the Olds FAQ
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

Get a copy of the Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com
http://www.en.com/users/thall

Or FTP a "zipped" version from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds.

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:47:45 -0300
Subject: Re: 'yardin'

It's just south of Greeneville Tennessee, which is about an hour/hour and
a half north of Knoxville, and about 45 minutes to an hour south of
Bristol, Tn.

Peace...
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997 mefco@sprynet.com wrote:

> Clayton,
> What part of the country is the yard located?
>
> Art Fuller
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:16:09 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 307 V8 question

Hi all,

I have a question about a 1982 307 V8.  Did this pups come with a two
barrel carb or a four barrel carb.  Did these come backed up with a
4-speed 350?  Let me know...

Thanks in advance.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:17:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

On this car I just bought, the gear indicator in the dash seems to be
stuck at Park.  Bascially I have to count my clicks to the right gear.
Is this easy to fix by myself.

Also this car has a problem with the passenger's side power lock.  I
hear the motor engaging except the knob doesn't move.  Is this easy
to fix?

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:05:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Tires

Tom Williams wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>    I have been reading some e-mail on tires latley and just have
> a question of my own. I am in need of replacing the tires on my 70
> olds and was wondering if anybody has ever used Bridgestones. If you
> have or have not please respond on if you liked them or not?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Williams
> 70-W31
> OCAª28886
I've never used them, but I got my 68 442 from a friend of mine. When he
first got the car he put new tires on it, BF Goodrich. This was about 5
years ago, I just recently replaced them. Those tires sure took a
beating!! The compound was soft enough to get somewhat traction and not
soft enough to go bald overnight. As many burnouts as we did (alot) the
tires lasted at least 3 times longer than any other tires. I've never
had any luck with Goodyear, they seem to hard and don't hook up that
great.. I've had several sets of GT+4's on my 79 cutlass, got better
traction with 2 spairs on the back.. honestly!!

BF Goodrich Radial T/A 225/70r14 were the best tires I had on my 442

Marty
68 442
72, 69 Nova
Sold my 79 cutlass (damn shame, fun car)it had a chev 350(sorry) with
about 375 hp with 4.11 gears it ran a best time if 13.6 , I'm hoping to
get in the 11's with my 72 Nova. My 442 is to original to alter so i'm
leaving it stock, But it still goes like hell.

------------------------------

From: bryceman@442.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 17:28:56 -0300
Subject: Rear-End Swap

Anyone know if rear end, sway bar and lower control arms from a '71 Delta
will fit a '66 Delta. Dont some of you guys have Hollander Manuals? Thanks
alot.

           Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '72 Cutlass Convertible
            Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 17:56:30 -0300
Subject: 66 F-85, L-69, W-30, etc.

OK guys, as noted elsewhere, the OCF show is over and I guess I need to spend
a little more time avoiding real work by perusing the Olds list. ;-)

It was recently written:

<<welcome to olds country. Just got a few ? for ya. A 66 F-85 442 deluxe
w/a l-69 option?????????? It can't be a deluxe, or a F-85? The l-69
option was part of a full race package. A friend of mine knows a guy in
MN who has half of them ever made, there was only 50 something of the
cars made from the fact. The l-69 was also a dealer opt. all together
there are less than 100 of these cars. You could have a deluxe 442 (a
442 is not a F-85, they are both cutlass's 2 diff packages) with a
dealer installed trac-pac(radio, heater delete??). >>

Whoa, things are a little mixed up in there.

1. the 442 option was available on any F-85 or Cutlass model (2 door although
a few 65 4-doors were built). Remember that until 68 the 442 itself was an
option package, not a model.  Consequently the W-30 option was in addition to
the 442 option.

2. The L-69 option was the tri-power setup and not necessarily a "race"
package any more than the equivalent GTOs of the period.  The "ram air"
packages were much more drag strip oriented.  Olds called their system
"outside air induction" or OAI.  The order option code was W-30.

3. "Rally Pac" was the in dash gauge package including miniscule tach, clock,
oil pressure and temp gauges.

4. The "Trak Pak" referred to _dealer_ installed W-30 packages.  Very few
were dealer installed.  The packages included a cam, springs, bumper
installed air intakes, big chrome air cleaner (shroud in GM speak), cables
and related items to mount the battery on the rear kick up in the trunk.  The
owner would have to also purchase the L-69 items in order to install this
package, unless already on the car.

5. There were 54 factory W-30 cars for the 66 model year.  All included the
L-69 tripower carb setups.  The only difference between these cars and the
"Trak-Pak" versions would be that the factory supplied engines were pretty
much blueprinted right in Lansing.  These 54 were spread around all the
available F-85/Cutlass models except convertibles.  Kinda hard to keep that
trunk mounted battery from eating the top boot.

Note: there were _NO_ 66-67 W-30 convertibles. I've seen several ads for
obviously bogus convetible W-30's.  There were no identifying codes in the
VIN or elsewhere for them either.  Buyer beware!

There's a fellow here in FL, Roger Brink, who owns one of each body style.
 He was selling one at the Atlanta OCA nats.  Don't know if he was
successful. As I recall the asking price was $38,500 and the car is original
and pretty much perfect. He also seems to have the market cornered on any
available 66 W-30 air shrouds.  Sometimes life isn't fair. Sigh. Yea, I am
jealous.

The '66 W-30's are the rarest (54) and arguably the fastest W-30's built.
 Check out the Muscle Car Review pure stock contest a couple issues back.
 But for traction problems the 66 W-30 would have been the quickest car in
the field.  The short stroke (early) 400 is a much overlooked screamer. As is
the 425 of course.

Next in rarity are the '67 W-30s with 502 factory built and the first with
red fender liners.  They were pretty much just as quick as the 66's and had a
similar Trak-Pak available.  The Trak-Pak did not include the red fender
liners.  Since these are not being reproduced they are a very good indicator
of an original 67 W-30.

After 67 anybody could order a W-30. That was _not_ a bad thing of course.
There were thousands after 66/67, not limited to dozens or a few hundred.

I "grew up" around that time and still have my 67 W-30.  I bought the car too
early in the  model year to have the W-30 package.  It wasn't available until
March 67.  Over the years I've been able to collect all the important pieces
including the red fender liners.

While I do not claim to know everything about them (a guy named Kurt Anderson
does know everything about them) I can answer  most questions on the 66/67
W-30s.

Glad to answer any.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 17:56:25 -0300
Subject: TH350 vs TH400

If you want the last ounce of HP to the ground the 350 us lighter and easier
to rev up due to less "flywheel" mass.

If  you want a practically indestructable reliable trans, use the TH400.

This is in "street" terms mind you.  A TH-350 that can handle 750HP would in
all likelihood be a real bear to live with on the street.  What is best for
the drag strip isn't necessarily the best for or liveable on the street.

The TH-400 is _my_ first choice far and away.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 18:01:57 -0300
Subject: RE: Tires purchased, and thread drift. . .

Tom Lentz wrote:

     Anyways, thanks for the tire recommendations everyone.  I chose to go
     with the BF Goodrich radial T/A's since they were fairly cheap, widely
     available, and have been around for a while (meaning I can probably
     get a replacement if one is destroyed).  They don't make any of the
     BFG Comp T/A tires in the size I wanted (pity, they looked like a nice
     tire too).  They seem to handle great, although they ride a bit rough.
      I'm not sure if this is the tire, or due to the fact that the tire
     store recommends 35psi (which is max pressure) all around.  They did
     give me one pointer that I thought I might share.  If I don't believe
     them that 35psi is best for tire wear, then make a couple of chalk
     marks across the tire tread and drive around a bit.  If it's worn in
     the center, decrease about 2-3psi and try again.  If worn on the
     edges, increase pressure.


Someone correct me if I am wrong but, won't the pressure increase as you
drive thus wearing the chalk mark off of both the outside edge and then as
pressure increases off the center.   I think that you should probably start
with warm/hot tires when you perform this test rather than cold tires.  I do
think that this is a great tip though but I think they should have include to
start with warm/hot tires.

Cecil
1991 W-41

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 18:10:31 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 Manifold and carb

In a message dated 97-04-30 04:14:33 EDT, you write:

<< What is your source for the manifold identification?  The manifold was on
a 1970 SX, original motor and original car.
 Do you have a listing of the manifold casting numbers?  I have a partial
listing in from 442.com and the olds faq. >>
Well my friend the source of the part numbers is Joe Mondello.  A while back
i purchased his olds V-8 tech manual, i have check the part numbers with my
chassis service manuals and a book called Oldsmobile- The performance years
with Joe's tech book, and he is right on course.  He has the part numbers for
intake and exhaust manifolds, distributors, carburators, water pumps and much
more. AS for carburator numbers, they are listed in my 70 chassis service
manual

standard 455 4 bbl carb number is 7040251and it goes to 7040258.
The 4th number in the carb number represents the year.  Such as 7042251 is a
72 455 4bbl carb that was avail on any A body car


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
two 1972 442 W-30'S
with "X" in the vins

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 18:10:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 Manifold and carb

In a message dated 97-04-30 04:14:33 EDT, you write:

<< What is your source for the manifold identification?  The manifold was on
a 1970 SX, original motor and original car.
 Do you have a listing of the manifold casting numbers?  I have a partial
listing in from 442.com and the olds faq. >>
Well my friend the source of the part numbers is Joe Mondello.  A while back
i purchased his olds V-8 tech manual, i have check the part numbers with my
chassis service manuals and a book called Oldsmobile- The performance years
with Joe's tech book, and he is right on course.  He has the part numbers for
intake and exhaust manifolds, distributors, carburators, water pumps and much
more. AS for carburator numbers, they are listed in my 70 chassis service
manual

standard 455 4 bbl carb number is 7040251and it goes to 7040258.
The 4th number in the carb number represents the year.  Such as 7042251 is a
72 455 4bbl carb that was avail on any A body car


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
two 1972 442 W-30'S
with "X" in the vins

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 11:03:26 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 1982 307 V8 question

     They all came with 4bbl carbs.  Some with aluminum and some with cast
     iron intakes.  There's no such thing as a 4-speed TH-350 tranny.  The
     307 could be found with the TH200-4R (4-speed automatic), TH-200 (3
     speed, but wimpier than the 350), TH-200C (same but with lockup torque
     converter), and TH-350 and TH-350C.  I think the TH-350 equipped ones
     are fairly rare, probably part of a towing package.  Anything past
     about '81 (basically any one with a computer in it) will have the
     lockup torque converter, which is not a "bad thing" if you have the
     means to control it.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: 1982 307 V8 question Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/30/97 1:48 PM


Hi all,

I have a question about a 1982 307 V8.  Did this pups come with a two
barrel carb or a four barrel carb.  Did these come backed up with a
4-speed 350?  Let me know...

Thanks in advance.

Chris Sparks


------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 18:46:26 -0300
Subject: Re: '83-'84 H/O Spoilers

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      I posted a while ago about this, but didn't hear back from anyone.
>      Thought I'd try it again.
>
>      A friend of mine who is a sculpter has the capability of duplicating
>      pieces through making a mold.  She in turn has another friend who does
>      this for a living, including making metal castings (I wonder if he
>      could reproduce something like a nice ported, race-prepped pair of
>      aluminum D heads?).  The idea hit me to make the spoiler "wingtips"
>      for the '83-'84 H/O's, since I know people are out there looking for
>      these since they tend to fall off.  I've seen plenty of wanted ads for
>      them, trouble is you have to buy the whole spoiler, and they're not
>      available anymore anyways.
>
>      Anyways, would anyone else be interested in a pair?  I'm told they
>      could be duplicated so well that you couldn't tell they were fakes,
>      and that he'd need to make about $300 profit to recover his costs.  I
>      figure if I can get together a few people who are interested in a pair
>      at about $100/pair then we might have a chance.
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com
If you can make some D heads I'll definately buy them!!!!
Marty

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:29:41 -0300
Subject: Request for Links

I would like to compile a list of members here with homepages with
pictures of any oldsmobiles on them.  If anyone would like to be
included, send me:
http address
type(s) of cars that can be found there.

Please send me an Email PERSONALLY with this info if you are interested,
as no uninterested parties will be included.

mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca

(Of course, my first project is to have my cutlass with 455 moving under
it's own power, but that's getting close to happening!)

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.0.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:33:06 -0300
Subject: 64 tire recomendation

Please don't let this get carried away. Other than the manufacters
recomendation, what tire size can I run on a 64 cutlass F-85 conv. I want
to go to a BFG. I weant to either run the same front and rear, if they look
right. Or go with a 7in. rim in front and a 8in in the rear. Any
recomendations ol' wise ones?
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:50:28 -0300
Subject: Console shifter

The reason its getting loose is because the plastic sleeve is wearing out,
eventually it will break off and the handle will just pull off.  Just like
mine did last week.  I'm trying to find a replacement, Ill keep you
updated.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 Convt
71 Cutlass S
87 Salon


________________________________________________________________________
Hi Folks. Has anyone ever replaced the shifter handle with the push
button in the left side of the handle, not the whole stick just the
top part. I have a '87 Salon and the top part is getting loose, I
wanted to try and get the part before someone tells me that they
stop making them, the interior of the car is dark red or burgundy.

If anyone has any part numbers from GM or any experiance in
replacing this part please respond..


Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: TURBO38@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:52:23 -0300
Subject: Re: 70w-30 4sale

70 w-30 for sale, call or email for details 512-462-1404 austin tx.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:59:41 -0300
Subject: Molded Rad Hoses

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
> OLDS CONTENT:  Big Red needs a pair of new radiator hoses (didn't our Gallic
> author of this thread mention something similar?).  The local parts place
> has a number for the top hose -- discontinued and not in stock, of course --
> and a flex hose for the bottom piece.  Is there a source for *molded*
> OEM-type hoses?

Sounds like you used the same parts guy I do. I got the same
recommendation when I first got my '68 and wanted to replace the hoses. I
used the flex hose for about a year but always hated having it on there.

Fusick's has the hoses you need. Parts ªs are 390923 for the lower hose
at $23.50 each and 390921 for the upper at $22.50.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:08:45 -0300
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold

Yes, looks like I put out the wrong part ª, sorry. Do you have one available?

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:18:51 -0300
Subject: ADMIN: List Abuse (fwd)

Ladies and Gentlemen (and I use the word advisedly today):

I get busy at work for a day and I come back to a real mess here. I
received the following from a longtime list member and needless to say I
agree 100 percent. There was so much abuse by so many people regarding
you know what today that I could probably toss a half-dozen people.

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 12:18:00 -0300
To: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: List Abuse

Greg,

I'm sending this to you only, because I don't have any intention
of expressing these thoughts on the Olds list.

This morning's messages regarding the French and others are way out of
line.  No politics, right?

<concern about offensive remarks snipped>

- -----------

What disappoints me is that you all ought to know better by now.
Avoidance of garbage like this is supposed to be why this list isn't a
usenet newsgroup. It seems some of you are trying your damndest to make it
into one. If that's what you want I'll be glad to remove you from here and
you can all go frolic over there. If this comes up again from any of you
(and you all know who you are) you won't have to wait long.

I'm sorry to be testy about this but I'm tired of wasting my time trying
to keep stuff here Olds-related. Take historical debates, war stories,
nationalistic insults and jingoism elsewhere. It's not welcome here, and
neither are those who persist in perpetuating it on this list. That
warning applies to *all* who participated in this sorry display. If you
want to insult each other's countries take it elsewhere. There is no
excuse for what occurred today, and the lack of respect shown for others
is intolerable.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:23:39 -0300
Subject: Re: 'yardin'

At 01:13 PM 4/30/97 -0300, Clayton Pierce wrote:

>1980's Cutlass Cruisers (Bruisers ?!:-)  ).  There were several, all of
>them seemed to be in pretty good shape for junkyard cars.  Bodies looked
>good on all of them, but as the windows had been left open for a while,
>any interior parts that had been good probably wouldn't be that good
>anymore without being refinished... there might have been one that had
>pretty good interior.  Knowing a bit about their prices, I'd bet that any
>of these could be bought whole cars for $200 or less.

>From my experience checking these Cutlass Cruiser Wagon's in our yard, I say
about 2 in 5 have posi rears....
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, Mobil 1(eng. & diff.),
Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
coming soon: SLP headers, 150 Nitrous kit and low 12 second e.t's that will
get its
ass kicked by an 89 T/TA from Texas......;-O
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html


------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:32:39 -0300
Subject: RE: new member

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997, Clayton Pierce wrote:

> Yes, it was an add-on kit.  As far as I know though, it was only available
> in '88 for the Cutlass Supreme Classic.  Of course, it could be used on
> ANY G-body.  It includes ground effects and miscellaneous other stuff.
> Wouldn't mind having a kit for my car, but they are rare and expensive
> now.  Somebody on the list a while back said that they had several of
> these kits in storage.  Oh yeah, the kit was not available already

Wow, It's funny how this just came up.  I just sent out a nice
sized check for one of these Aero Kits.  I Bought it from someone on the
list. By the way I think it will only fit 81-88 Cutlasses. (Were the 78-80
Cutlasses G-body or were they still A?)

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme (soon to be AeroHurst)

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:52:04 -0300
Subject: RE: Rear Wing

>All the repro wings ive seen look o.k., If you put an original beside
>a repro they look a little different.  the repro's are a little more
>fatter looking and they are hollow not solid.  They wont fit the =
factory
>type hole layout and they need a little work to get them to lay flat =
once
>they are lined up.  95% of most people could not tell the difference =
between
>the two once installed.  Just dont let it hang off the back, they look
>terrible when they are done like that (Aint that Right DW). The =
originals are   hard too find.  I >have been looking for one for my W30 =
for a couple of          months and so far have had no >luck.

>Mike
>66 442
>69 H/O
>70 W30
>71 442 Convt


It takes awhile, but sometimes diligence and hard work (as well as many =
long-distance phone calls) pays off. Last year I found an NOS deck lid =
and NOS spoiler for $450. It'll probably never happen again, but =
sometimes you just get lucky.

Jim Rabideau
70 W30

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:05:10 -0300
Subject: RE: new member

At 08:32 PM 4/30/97 -0300, Barnacle Bill wrote:


>
>Wow, It's funny how this just came up.  I just sent out a nice
>sized check for one of these Aero Kits.  I Bought it from someone on the
>list. By the way I think it will only fit 81-88 Cutlasses. (Were the 78-80
>Cutlasses G-body or were they still A?)

I was wondering about this too. Besides from the header panel and rear
taillight area how are the 78-80's different from the 81-88. I have a hard
time telling any difference.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, Mobil 1(eng. & diff.),
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25:project car....


------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:24:51 -0300
Subject: Re: ADMIN: List Abuse (read at your discretion)

As one of the "offenders," I will apologize for the actions and remove myself
from the list.  It has been a wonderful source of information that would have
otherwise taken me months and months of searching to gather.

However, my car is not my life.  It is just a car.  And if I think of
something humorous to say about an overpriced tire that wears out too
quickly, I will.  When I take the car to the local drive in on summer nights,
Lord knows I don't sit around all night talking about the numbers on my
heads.

So if my occasional foray into social satire and commentary offended, I
apologize.  Thanks to all that provided information for me, and I hope any
information I was able to provide (Oldsmobile related, of course) was
appreciated.

Duane
1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible (which I do not refer to as my baby.  That
is reserved for my girlfriend Jennifer)

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:36:08 -0300
Subject: striptune.zip

I recently downloaded a program for setting up engines, kind of like
Desktop Dyno. for some reason I cant get it to work, a friend of mine
said I have to "un zip" it. does anyone know what this means or how to
do it.  I'd like to see how acurate it is biulding engines.
Marty
68 442

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:40:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Valves

> Perhaps he was thinking about stainless-steel valves? I've heard that
> valve-seat recession is less severe (not necessarily eliminated) with
> stainless valves, compared to regular steel valves.
>
>           Now you've piqued my interest.  I was not aware of this
>           feature of stainless valves.  What is it about the stainless
>           that reduces the valve seat recession?
       From what I have read the cause of seat recesson is that when the
exaust valve closes a few molecules of the seat weld themselvs to the
valve. When the valve opens these are ripped off the seat and go out with
the exaust. Leaded gas helped to prevent this by forming a cushon and
lubricating the seat and valve mating area with molecules of lead. S/S
valves may help some but I don't think they would prevent it.
      Truck engines ( I mean real trucks not pickups ) have used hardned
seats for years. Not even leaded fuel will save the cast iron seats when
the exaust temp gets high. A truck pulling a heavy load up a steep grade is
very hard on seats, as is a motorhome that catches a lot of wind and is
heavy too. This is because the throttle is wide open at a low rpm for a
long period of time creating very high exaust gas temp. Sometimes the
manafolds will turn cherry red. It doesnt take many miles under these
conditons to completely destroy a seat. I have seen very few high
performance engines have seat problems even when useing older heads. I
think that this is because most ot these engines are run with a richer
mixture which helps keep the EGT down and they are not run under lugging
conditons. Of course they are usually driven less miles so that helps too.
If I am building heads for car that will be hot rodded I offer to put in
hard seats if they want. If the vehicle is to get a lot of highway miles
and doesnt have the factory induction hardened seats I recomend them. If it
is to pull a trailer I insist on them.
Walter    Jones Cylinder head Service

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:42:55 -0300
Subject: Re: HEATER

On Tue, 29 Apr 1997, Daniel A. Gulino wrote:

> My '75 88 has the "tempmatic" air conditioner, too, and I've never been
> able to figure out what makes it different from the "regular" air
> conditioner, which just had a "hot-cold" temperature slide, or the
> "comfortron," which had a dial indicator so that you could dial up a
> temperature they way you do with your home thermostat.  The tempmatic has a
> slide lever like the regular airconditioner, but it has temperature
> markings, running from 65 to 85, instead of just the words "hot" at one end
> and "cold" at the other.  I've never noted it to do anything other than
> what a regular a/c system would do.  How is it "better" than the regular
> A/C but not as good as the comfortron?
>
> Dan

Dan,

I always thought the Tempmatic was a silly idea.  Comfortron, which proved
to be troublesome, knew what the inside temperature and outside
temperature was, as well as what the temperature was of the air coming out
of the ducts.  If you had a cold outside temp, the system knew it had to
throw heat, and knew it had to throw it out of the heater ducts.  If you
had a hot out temp, the system knew it had to throw A/C and throw it out
of the A/C ducts.  It was a totally automatic system.  You set it at 70
degrees and it would maintain that temp year round and pick the right mode
of delivery.  You only had to set the controls once, and never had to
touch them again.

I think Tempmatic kept the same basic temperature control theory, but
ditched the trouble automatic mode selection.  One of the big drawbacks of
the early Comfortron system is that if the system was on, so was the
compressor, all the time, no cycling.  There also was no vent setting, and
there was no bi-level setting, which became quite popular.  By making a
hybrid of the two existing systems, they maintained temperature control
while allowing a vent setting along with manual control of the delivery of
air.

With the 4 season air and the hot and cold setting, you naturally went in
the direction of the temp that you wanted.  I've never run Tempmatic
system, but it's my understanding that if you set it at 70, it would
maitain that temp, regardless of outside temp, as the Comfortron system
would.  That's what I'm getting out of my '76 owners manual anyway.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:54:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac, 69 Olds 442

On Tue, 29 Apr 1997, Wayne Schwartz wrote:

> I'm finally getting around to installing my ralley pac but I need
> advice.  The car had an underdash gage package when I bought it.  A
> clear plastic line connected the oil pressure gage to a fitting between
> the water pump and the front of the block.  I bought a oil pressure
> sending unit from Year One and I believe its the correct one.....but due
> to its OD it comes into contact with the block when I try to position it
> in the same threaded hole.  Is this the correct location for the sending
> unit.....I can't find a reference in the Service Manual.  HELP!!!
>
> Wayne Schwartz
> wschwart@IAW.on.ca

Because of their size, these sending units need and elbow adapter.  Year
one has these, I think.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:14:38 -0300
Subject: Re: striptune.zip

hanthorn wrote:
>
> I recently downloaded a program for setting up engines, kind of like
> Desktop Dyno. for some reason I cant get it to work, a friend of mine
> said I have to "un zip" it. does anyone know what this means or how to
> do it.  I'd like to see how acurate it is biulding engines.
> Marty
> 68 442
Check to see if you have a program on your computer called Winzip. Goto
find file and search for it. If you do, drage the zip file onto the top
of the winzip icon, it looks ,like a file cabinet with a C clamp on it.
After you drag it on to the icon it should show you all the files in
it.  then chose to extract ALL the files to a new folder.  You might
have to make a new folder first.

Bryan Bodine
'71 442

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:03:43 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 307 V8 question

At 03:16 PM 4/30/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a question about a 1982 307 V8.  Did this pups come with a two
>barrel carb or a four barrel carb.  Did these come backed up with a
>4-speed 350?  Let me know...

They were all 4-bbl cars. They only came with automatics; I don't know what
you're referring to as a "4-speed 350".
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:18:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Valves

At 08:40 PM 4/30/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>           Now you've piqued my interest.  I was not aware of this
>>           feature of stainless valves.  What is it about the stainless
>>           that reduces the valve seat recession?
>       From what I have read the cause of seat recesson is that when the
>exaust valve closes a few molecules of the seat weld themselvs to the
>valve. When the valve opens these are ripped off the seat and go out with
>the exaust.

OK, then stainless valves as resistant to seat-recession would make sense.
Way back in science class (so long ago I forgot the precise subject), it was
pointed out that the bond between atoms that is broken when, say, a
valve-stem snaps in half, could theoretically be re-established, and the
part would "self-weld" itself back together, as the atoms re-established the
bonds they had with the previously adjacent atoms in what is now a two-piece
item.

As you've all noticed, parts don't do this, first because you can't align
the two halves to perfectly mate in the position that they were in before
the break, and second, the atoms on the surface take up intimate relations
with the oxygen atoms, converting the surface to whatever-oxide.

Through the heat it creates, welding, in essence, establishes new bonds
between the metal atoms, though in a different arrangement than before the
break. The heat in the exhaust-valve would cause it to "pick up" atoms from
the seat, not necessarily in clumps, but enough so that over time the seat
gets worn away.

Since the bonds between an alloy like SS and something largely iron would be
weaker than those between iron and iron atoms, a SS valve would pick up
fewer atoms, and thus take longer to wear down the seat.

OK, who here is in mechanical engineering? Who can check my reasoning in the
above proposal? 'cause I'm just guessing here...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:42:13 -0300
Subject: Radiator Hose Source

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> OLDS CONTENT:  Big Red needs a pair of new radiator hoses (didn't our Gallic
> author of this thread mention something similar?).  The local parts place
> has a number for the top hose -- discontinued and not in stock, of course --
> and a flex hose for the bottom piece.  Is there a source for *molded*
> OEM-type hoses?

USA Parts Supply lists upper and lower hoses.  I'm assuming they're
molded...

lower part ªA1.159N $10.25
upper part ªA1.159P $11.49

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:54:17 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Also this car has a problem with the passenger's side power lock.  I
> hear the motor engaging except the knob doesn't move.  Is this easy
> to fix?

Hey, what's goin' on with you?  I sent you two messages last night -
twice.  All four came back returned.  I think you sent a message to me
that you wanted to got to the whole list about that '82 that you just
bought, I received it, but I didn't see it on the list anywhere.  I
decoded your body plate and everything.  Is your mailbox full?

Anyway, I used to have an '83 Ninety Eight that had the same door lock
problem.  I needed an actuator on that side.  It was expensive to replace
and that was in '91.  Wished I'd have left it go after I saw the bill.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:56:31 -0300
Subject: Re: striptune.zip

hanthorn wrote:
>
> I recently downloaded a program for setting up engines, kind of like
> Desktop Dyno. for some reason I cant get it to work, a friend of mine
> said I have to "un zip" it. does anyone know what this means or how to
> do it.  I'd like to see how acurate it is biulding engines.
> Marty
> 68 442

For any who don't know what zipped files are:

Winzip is a shreware program available at http://www.winzip.com.  It is
an uncompression utility that will uncompress *.zip files and also
compress numerous files into one *.zip file.

To Marty:

Could you post the URL for the zipped program?  I'm sure a couple of us
would like to take a look at it.

Hope this helps.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 23:02:20 -0300
Subject: A vs. G body

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997, Barnacle Bill wrote:

> (Were the 78-80 Cutlasses G-body or were they still A?)
>
> Bill Reilly
> '85 Cutlass Supreme (soon to be AeroHurst)

Cutlasses were A bodies thru 1981.  They changed to G bodies in 1982 and
the Cutlass Ciera became the A body.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 23:00:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Tires

Tom Williams wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>    I have been reading some e-mail on tires latley and just have
> a question of my own. I am in need of replacing the tires on my 70
> olds and was wondering if anybody has ever used Bridgestones. If you
> have or have not please respond on if you liked them or not?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Williams
> 70-W31
> OCAª28886

My dad just put a set of Bridgestone Dueler AT's on his Grand Cherokee.
I know that these are all-terrain tires vs. street tires, but there was
a significant improvement in the ride over the stock Goodyears, anyway.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª641
********************************
