To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #673


oldsmobile-digest          Wednesday, 14 May 1997       Volume 01 : Number 673

Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: Re[3]: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: one more porting question
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: Exhausting possibilities
repost: welder question
Assorted Topics
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Spoiler Question?
Re: repost: welder question
Re: Talladega
quicktime????
NEED PULLEY
Transmission Installation
Re: 1987 442
Re: Spoiler Question?
Re: Transmission Installation
Re: Spoiler Question?
Re: 1987 442
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: repost: welder question
Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Re: Car weight?
Re: repost: welder question
Re: Transmission Installation
oldmobile questions
Re: oldmobile questions
71 442 info
Re: Re[3]: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Shipping Carriers
Oldsmobile Factory Photos For Sale (5/14)
Re: Shipping Carriers
Re: Exhausting possibilities
Re: Mass. Salvage Yard
Re: Mass. Salvage Yard
EGR (was: 76 Big Block Intake continued)
Re: repost: welder question
Re: quicktime????
RE:quicktime download
An Invite: the Pre-Century Rocket Lounge Bash

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:04:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

At 10:42 PM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>What exactly does EGR stand for?
>
>If this could be beneficial (but then it is pollution control, right?) is
>there a way I could hook it up?
>
>I am not positive that my Holley is a spreadbore, but I assume that any doubt
>means that it is not one. No part of the bottom flares out. LIST-1850-3  0030
>is on the back of the horn (I am told it identifies the model ª). Apparently
>Mondello sells an adapter for $6 that is intended for QJet to Edelbrock
>(Holley ready) intake. I will call him tomorrow to see if I can use it upside
>down.
>
>
>Karl Aune
>1965 Dynamic 88

Karl

        Don't bother hooking up the EGR. It's not needed and could hurt
performance slightly. As for your carb, the list ª 1850 is a standard square
bore Holley design. An adapter plate will be needed. That will also be a
vacuum sacondary carb and a bit on the small side for a 425 cu in engine.
This should give you real good throrrle response though.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:04:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[3]: THEFT PROTECTION

In a message dated 97-05-13 10:08:04 EDT, Mr. Padavano wrote:

>          time a 68 dash was still available from the dealer.  I
>            finally resorted to hiding the stereo, which solved that
>            problem.
>
>
Depending on the criminal element concerned. For a while I drove my parent's
1983 Ch*vy V6 Craprice which had been repainted and did look kinda sharp, I
suppose ( if you are into those models). Anyway, the stereo had been stolen
after my mother used poor judgement in parking (on the other hand she saved
$4). One would think that a myriad of wires cascading out of a hole on the
dash would be a theft deterrent. However after my friend and I exited a movie
theater that I had driven us to, we found that the passenger's rear quarter
window had been smashed. Nothing had been in the car, so nothing was taken. I
suppose that is Chicago for you. Not to mention the criminal mind. They will
always do something you never expect.

Later

Karl Aune

Earth-shattering Gynecological Research?

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:11:43 -0300
Subject: Re: one more porting question

At 07:44 PM 5/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>1) what exactly is "teardrop" porting the intake port?

Exactly what it sounds like: the metal around the valve guide is round from
the factory, and you grind it so that it is shaped more like a teardrop,
with the skinny end pointing away from the valve.

>2) should the intake runner of the head stay rough cast to help the fuel
>atomization, or should all the surfaces be ground smooth and shiny?

Leave it rough.

>oh, also, how much of a power increase should I expect with a mild build
>engine (flat top pistons, Crane 260/272 cam, roller rockers, headers,
>performer intake and carb, MSD/Mallory ignition)?

That sounds like a good 300-350hp motor, depending on the fine-tuning and
exhaust. Maybe more, if your porting is successful.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:45:44 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

>What exactly does EGR stand for?
>
>Excremental Gag Reflex?
'Fraid not.

>Extreme Gearheads Rule?
Sorry, no. But it sounds better than what EGR really stands for. :)

>If this could be beneficial (but then it is pollution control, right?) is
>there a way I could hook it up?

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation.  If I remember correctly it routes
some of the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold.  The fuel is never
completely burned in the cylinder, so some escapes in the exhaust.  The
theory behind the EGR is that you run some exhaust gasses back though the
engine to burn off the residual fuel to cut down on emissions.

As you could imagine,  EGR is not benificial to performance or economy.  The
exhaust gasses have allready been burned, so they can't help make more
power.  leave it disconnected since it shouldn't be required by big brother
on your `65.  And most people I know who have it on their cars would just as
soon disconnect it.  I understand it's a pretty cumbersome and tempermental
system that hurts performance.  You may want to remove the valve if your
state has strict pollution regs.  You might end up arguing  with the man at
the inspection station every year over whether the EGR should be hooked up.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:42:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>

>> To answer my own question, its gonna be Super Turbos for this
>> reason; Super Turbo=$54  Ultra Flow=$154.  Yikes!

>Whow, those prices seem a little high!! I paid $50 each for the 3" Super
>Turbo's in my Olds and I paid $27 for the 2 1/2" Super Turbo in my long
>gone Pinto.....

>Who quoted you those prices?????

The local NAPA store.  This is for the aluminized DynoMax SuperTurbo Hemi,
a 9.75 x 4.25 oval, 2.5" in and out, 20" case length, p/n 17749.

The "non-hemi" version is only 14" case length, and may be cheaper.

Maybe I should drive the 30 miles to Racine, Wisconsin and see if
Walker has a factory outlet. :-)

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:50:20 -0300
Subject: repost: welder question

              I posted this earlier, but it looks like the message never
came though.  I though I'd try it again.               Thanks.


I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the other
day.  I know this topic was discussed earlier but I'm afraid I didn't take
good enough notes.  (I accidentally trashed the messages)

It's a kit that runs about $50 and uses the small cannisters of oxygen and
propane.  It can also use map(sp?) gas.  The package says it's capable of
welding up to 1/2" thick plate steel and cutting through 3/16" thick steel.
It looks like a mini acetyline (I'm a crappy speller, I know) setup only
without pressure gauges.  It has seperate controls to regulate the oxygen
and propane.

Has anyone had experience with this type of setup? Is it worth a darn?  I'm
trying to decide if I'd be better off waiting 'till I have enough money for
a better setup.  I'm going to need to do some sheet metal welding on my
cutlass soon and would like to do it myself but I haven't learned how to
weld yet and I don't have a welding rig either.  I understand that welding
with a torch type welder can warp sheetmetal easily from the heat.  Is it
impossible to weld sheet metal without warping it with someting like this?
Should I just save up for good mig welder?

Thanks in advance for any information.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme



------------------------------

From: ngomez@airmail.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:00:15 -0300
Subject: Assorted Topics

Are there any Olds people here from Dallas? I know there are, I've seen
some people mention it. I saw a beautiful period mid 50's Olds Super 88 (I
guess) dark green with scallops and smoothies, the whole custom bit. Really
beautiful car. I've seen it at Keller's Drive In (every Saturday night,
lots of cool old cars, one club, and a lot of regular guys) on Northwest
Highway, and at a car show in Mesquite. Is the owner on the list?

I've been looking around some of the local yards looking for some front
disc brakes for my car. What are the opinions on a possible swap? These
drums really don't cut it, disc brakes are so nice. I'd like to get
everything from the spindle outward, as long as my stock spindle and the
donor match up. Also, the booster and dual master cylinder, as well as the
proportioning valve. I think this would be a somewhat difficult swap, but
I'd like to attempt it. What are some possible problems? I'd like to get
big rotors from a Custom Cruiser or soemthing. Any suggestions as to what
else I should look for? I'm worried about my wheels fitting on the new
rotors, the spacing of the bolts may not be the same.

I've seen some vintage Olds at the local yards. A 64 or 65 Olds Cutlass
convertible, pretty trashed. For Texas cars, some of these sure are rusted
out. Some later Cutlass' but nothing spectacular. A new yard just opened
up, lots of untouched cars, most of them run! Let me know if you need any
searching.

Also, I thought about getting a posi rearend for my car. I know any 10 bolt
or 12 bolt I find will not be long enough, so I though about just getting
really wide tires to avoid having to lengthen the axle. Tub the wheelwells?
Sure, why not. =) Just dreaming, of course.

Well, take care, and keep in touch!
Nick

1965 Olds Ninety Eight Town Sedan
Dallas, Texas

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:44:44 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                              Only Oldsmobiles

**** New stuff to list****
___________________
68-69 12 Bolt 'C' Type Posi Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $550.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $25.00ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $30.00 pr
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits but good)  $12.00 pr
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $50.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71-72 LH Sport Mirror-Remote (N.O.S.)  $145.00 ea

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
66-67 425/400 Fuel Pump (N.O.S.)  $40.00
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
67 Cutlass LH/RH Headlight Bezels (N.O.S.)  $130.00 pr
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
69 Cutlass RH Grille (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $40.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $90.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea
72 442 RH Grille (N.O.S.) $300.00

Used Parts
_________
64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $25.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $10.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
(2) 66-69 SSI Wheels  $40.00 ea
Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Cutlass Front Grille  $40.00
LH Rear side molding  $10.00
Glove Box Door  $35.00
Front Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Window Molding Set  $75.00 set
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 ea
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $65.00 pr
Supreme/442 Side Moldings  $15.00 ea piece
Rear Window Molding Set  $75.00 set
Front Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
A Pillar Moldings  $15.00 ea
Glove Box Door  $35.00
(2) Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $45.00
442 Fender Emblem (1 set)  $20.00
442 Grille Emblem  $20.00
Headlight Plastics  $100.00 pr
Hood Hinge Set  $50.00 pr
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr
69 442 Rear Bumper (nice)  $130.00
Hood Tongue  $15.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $40.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $40.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

70 Cutlass/442
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
70 RH Headlight Housing  $25.00
69-70 Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
70 Cutlass Trunk Rocket (nice)  $10.00
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
S Hood Chrome Vents  $40.00 pr
S Hood Vent Moldings  $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue  $25.00 ea
Cutlass Supreme RH Door (rust free)  $110.00
"S" Black Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $45.00 pr
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea
Windshield Molding Sets  $85.00 set
Rear Upper Control Arms  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $100.00
442 Coupe Trunk Lid (little rust)  $75.00
Black A/C and Non A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
(1) Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)

71 Cutlass/442
71 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (nice)  pot metal  $125.00 pr
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea

72 Cutlass/442
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea

Toronado Parts
66-68 Toro Pitman Arm (excellent cond) GM  $45.00
66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00
66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea
66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea
66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00
68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00
68 Toronado Air Cleaner Pie Tin  $5.00
66-68 Toronado Trailer Hitch Assm.  $20.00

We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators $24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.
We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire console shift lens $35.00 plus $3.00
shipping.  70-72 Hurst Dual Gate shift lens coming soon. Looking for a decent
64-66 and 67-69 auto trans shift lens for reference to reproduce.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:53:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Spoiler Question?

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>

>I have a question concerning a spoiler I have. It is IDENTICAL to the =
>NOS spoiler I put on my 70 442, with the exception that it only has 2 =
>studs on each side. I purchased it around 1980 and the paint was visibly =
>old at that time. I would think this was before reproductions. The =
>pedestals are exactly the same in appearance and construction (solid, =
>not hollow) as my NOS one. The bolt holes connecting to the spoiler are =
>the same, it's just that there are 2 studs, not 3. Does anyone know =
>where this came from?  I have never seen the underside of the spoiler on =
>a 69 H/O. Do they have 2 or 3 studs? This has been driving me nuts for =
>years. Can anyone help?

At the BOP swap meet last month (in Chicago) I saw the same thing.
Someone was selling a wing and it was marked as "original - not a
repo" but it only had two bolts per pedestal also.  Its faded
paint looked to be light green in color so it couldnt have been a
Hurst one.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 00:08:05 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

At 01:50 PM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>              I posted this earlier, but it looks like the message never
>came though.  I though I'd try it again.               Thanks.
 > >I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the
other >day.  I know this topic was discussed earlier but I'm afraid I didn't
take >good enough notes.  (I accidentally trashed the messages) > >It's a kit
that runs about $50 and uses the small cannisters of oxygen and >propane.  It
can also use map(sp?) gas.  The package says it's capable of >welding up to
1/2" thick plate steel and cutting through 3/16" thick steel. >It looks like a
mini acetyline (I'm a crappy speller, I know) setup only >without pressure
gauges.  It has seperate controls to regulate the oxygen >and propane. >
>Has anyone had experience with this type of setup? Is it worth a darn?  I'm
>trying to decide if I'd be better off waiting 'till I have enough money for
>a better setup.  I'm going to need to do some sheet metal welding on my
>cutlass soon and would like to do it myself but I haven't learned how to
>weld yet and I don't have a welding rig either.  I understand that welding
>with a torch type welder can warp sheetmetal easily from the heat.  Is it
>impossible to weld sheet metal without warping it with someting like this?
>Should I just save up for good mig welder? > >Thanks in advance for any
information. > >Greg Pruett >`72 Vista-Cruiser >`67 Cutlass Supreme > > >
>Greg

        Save your money if you really need a welder. MIG is the only way to
go. My neighbor and I share a Lincoln unit and love it. It does a great job
and doesn't warp the daylights out of the metal. You will be surprised at
how often you'll use it once you've got it. Plus all your buddies will want
you to do little jobs for them. As a cutting torch it sounds like a great
little device. Something you could even take to a wrecking yard to remove
those stubborn parts. If your worried about how to weld maybe look into a
vocational course or two if they are available.

My two cents worth;

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:02:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Talladega

mike.blankenship@medaphis.com wrote:
>
> Hey Bill Culp,
>
>   You ever been to the Auto Fair show at Talladega.  I think its this
> weekend. Any Oldsmobiles show up there?
>
> Mike
> Kennesaw, Georgia

Mike,

I haven't been there, but I have friends that have.  Most of the cars
are modified from the reports that I have been given over the years.
There are a few nice modified Oldsmobiles in this part of the state.  I
suspect that a coouple of those were there.

Last weekend was spent at the AACA Nationals in Greenville, SC.  Some
nice Oldsmobiles there were a couple of fine 1950's, a 1960, a 1930, a
couple of Cutlasses of the 1970's that were out of place in their
condition, and a very good 1940 coupe.

This caused me to miss the Shelbyville, TN show that usually has good
cars, but very few Oldsmobiles.  Huntsville, AL will have a good show
this weekend (17 May) where a couple of Oldsmobiles from the 50's should
show up.  The Decatur, AL show should have 8 or 10 as they are the
featured make.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 00:41:54 -0300
Subject: quicktime????

Can anyone help me download Quicktime?  Any websites that have this
free?
Marty
68 442

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 01:03:10 -0300
Subject: NEED PULLEY

I'm looking for a 3 groove crank pulley off of a 1971 98. The car has A/C.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Rick
yorcoy@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Richard Fuqua <raf@cmpu.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 01:23:34 -0300
Subject: Transmission Installation

Hello all:
    I have a '69 442 that's has it's share of abusive owners,  I've
installed a complete brake system,  rebuilt the entire
suspension (new springs too) , new ignition system...well you get the
picture.
My next assignment is to install a standard transmission.  The 442 I
have originally had a standard transmission in it,
but somewhere along the line a 455 with a turbo 400 was installed in to
it.  Oh yes, there is a limited slip differential
(original) in this vehicle.

I have obtained all the parts necessary to complete this restoration:
bell housing
clutch
pressure plate
throw out bearing
M-22
Hurst shifter
drive shaft
clutch linkage
misc. parts

I am seeking advise and recommendations in several areas of
installation.

My 455 engine has a automatic crank,  I have been told that the crank
will have to drilled to accept a new pilot
bearing  OR the input shaft on my transmission have to be cut.  Please
clarify this situation. What is best?

Transmission alignment-  Is this a issue I should be concerned with, or
should everything just bolt together?

Flywheel- Is this an item that should be balanced or do I just bolt it
in? (OEM flywheel)

All advice and recommendations welcome.

Thanks,
Richard Fuqua
'69 442

------------------------------

From: "j kimball" <jdkim@lvdi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 01:56:29 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 442

According to an original Olds ad I still have of the 87 442, the axle ratio
is 3.73.

- ----------
> From: JimmyDeee@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1987 442
> Date: Tuesday, May 13, 1997 5:47 PM
>
> Could someone please tell me what axle (as in ª of bolts & ring size) &
what
> ratio my 1987 442 would have. What about any bolt on or easy performance
> tricks
> for my 307. Any help would be appreciated.
>

------------------------------

From: FPlant@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 01:59:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Spoiler Question?

All Olds spoilers from 69-

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:49:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Transmission Installation

Richard Fuqua wrote:
>
> Hello all:
>     I have a '69 442 that's has it's share of abusive owners,  I've
> installed a complete brake system,  rebuilt the entire
> suspension (new springs too) , new ignition system...well you get the
> picture.
> My next assignment is to install a standard transmission.  The 442 I
> have originally had a standard transmission in it,
> but somewhere along the line a 455 with a turbo 400 was installed in to
> it.  Oh yes, there is a limited slip differential
> (original) in this vehicle.
>
> I have obtained all the parts necessary to complete this restoration:
> bell housing
> clutch
> pressure plate
> throw out bearing
> M-22
> Hurst shifter
> drive shaft
> clutch linkage
> misc. parts
>
> I am seeking advise and recommendations in several areas of
> installation.
>
> My 455 engine has a automatic crank,  I have been told that the crank
> will have to drilled to accept a new pilot
> bearing  OR the input shaft on my transmission have to be cut.  Please
> clarify this situation. What is best?
This will be hard to explain. If the center of the rear of your crank
has an indentation with a small shoulder about 1/4 of an inch inside you
can get a pilot bearing from Mondello that drives into the rear of the
crank. If the back of your crank is flat in the center you will have to
have it drilled. Don't cut the input shaft. It will likely cause an out
of balance situation and destroy the tranny. Or at least wear it out
quickly.
> Transmission alignment-  Is this a issue I should be concerned with, or
> should everything just bolt together?
The tranny will line up as it is bolted to the engine.
> Flywheel- Is this an item that should be balanced or do I just bolt it
> in? (OEM flywheel)
The flywheel should be already balanced. However, engines from the
factory are balanced only in a general way. I had mine balanced with the
rest of my internals.
> All advice and recommendations welcome.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Fuqua
> '69 442


Danny

------------------------------

From: FPlant@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 02:26:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Spoiler Question?

All the Olds spoilers from '69 (H/O) to 71 (last year for factory spoiler)
uses 3 studs per leg. There was a parts dealer in Lansing (Max Hineman) who
bought up the left over wing and leg assemblies from Olds. He eventually he
ran out of the legs and had them reproduced so he could sell the remaining
wings. Whether or not these reproduction legs had 2 or 3 studs I'm not sure,
but it could explain your spoiler.

Craig Rose
65 442
70 Rallye 350

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 02:35:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 442

At 09:02 PM 5/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> Could someone please tell me what axle (as in ª of bolts & ring size) &
what >> ratio my 1987 442 would have. What about any bolt on or easy
performance

It would be a 10-bolt, 8.5" axle with 3.73 gear ratio.

>> tricks
>> for my 307. Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>  Install a W-30 cam, small tube headers, with 2" exhaust pipes, an
aftermarket

Unless you've run such a cam successfully, I'd have to say that cam would
have far too much duration for a street 307 (especially with those sad ª7A
heads; no matter how long you hold those valves open, it's still sipping
through a straw). Besides, I've never heard of a roller-cam ground to W-30
specs.

>intake, a Holley vari-jection, and remove the computer. Install a pre
computer >electronic distributor recurved to the cam, and you should see about
250 hp.  A >2500 rpm stall converter will give you a good launch off the line.

Since the computer only controls the primary side of the carb, as well as
the ignition advance, there's no reason to discard it. The high-stall
converter is a good idea, but the real gains would come from swapping in
some 5A heads with a Performer intake. No matter how much you open up the
induction or exhaust system, with the small-port heads you'll really be held
back.

As for pure bolt-ons, you would want to try a K&N filter, perhaps an
aftermarket exhaust, and fine-tuning the secondaries on your carb. To
realize any significant power gain, you'll have to open up the motor.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: FPlant@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 02:36:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation, which was forced upon cars by
Environmental Gung-ho  Radicals, when it actually Eats Gas Rapidly.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 02:44:51 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

At 09:42 PM 5/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Now, a heater control valve? I did not notice one on my manifold, but then I
>have been doing most all work on the driver's side. Are you sure it existed
>in 1965? Daren, do you have one?

Well, the water for the heater has to get in and out of the engine some way;
follow your heater hoses, and see where they go in. The actual valve could
have been replaced by a simple fitting.

>What exactly does EGR stand for?

Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

>If this could be beneficial (but then it is pollution control, right?) is
>there a way I could hook it up?

Well, the idea behind it is to dilute the intake charge with non-combustible
gases, which are conveniently provided by the exhaust system. Why do this?
Well, if 1/2 (for simplicity sake) the volume of gases (nitrogen, oxygen,
CO2, etc) being drawn into the engine are non-combustible, then you would
need half as much fuel as you would if the full intake charge was
combustible. With less fuel being burnt, less power is produced, but in
addition less heat is produced, and the heat that is produced is also
absorbed by those additional non-combustible gases. Lower combustion temps
reduce the CO emissions, so that is why EGR became a common emissions tool
in the 1970's.

Interestingly enough, adding these non-combustible gases in effect reduces
the effective displacement of the engine (i.e. a 350ci motor would only be
taking in as much combustible gases as a 175ci motor), and you can run
leaner carb jetting than on a similar engine without EGR. Since EGR doesn't
operate at full-throttle, however, the maximum performance of the engine
should not suffer (thus, at WOT, you'd still be taking in 350ci of
combustible gases).

In actual point of fact, driveability suffered on some of these early,
pre-computer-controlled emissions cars due to the EGR. It's really not worth
hooking yours up.

>I am not positive that my Holley is a spreadbore, but I assume that any doubt
>means that it is not one. No part of the bottom flares out. LIST-1850-3  0030

It isn't a spreadbore. It's a 650cfm vacuum-secondary carb.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:02:05 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

> It's a kit that runs about $50 and uses the small cannisters of oxygen and
> propane.  It can also use map(sp?) gas.  The package says it's capable of
> welding up to 1/2" thick plate steel and cutting through 3/16" thick steel.

> Has anyone had experience with this type of setup? Is it worth a darn?  I'm
> trying to decide if I'd be better off waiting 'till I have enough money for

    Save up.  It's barely good enough for brazing steel sheet.  I'd never
let it near a car unless it was to heat/cut a rusty bolt.   Another
problem is that you'll find yourself using oxygen tanks at a alarming
rate doing just small bolt cutting.

> impossible to weld sheet metal without warping it with someting like this?
> Should I just save up for good mig welder?

    It's probably the WORST way to weld (actually, braze) sheet metal.
I've done the occasional hack job with a stick welder, which does a very
poor imitation of a spot welder - there is no question that the ONLY thing
for automotive sheet metal is a MIG.

    And yes, I'm still saving up for mine.  ;^) Anyone have good
suggestions on a cheap but good MIG?  The Home Depot here has a 130amp
Lincon for around $450, plus $70 for the MIG conversion.  Also a 100amp
model for about $350.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--

------------------------------

From: Neal28CA@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:08:53 -0300
Subject: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

Does anyone know where I can find a 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed?  It must
be sort of near California.  I live in Santa Cruz.

Thanks,
Neal

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:55:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Car weight?

At 08:18 PM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello:
>
>Can someone please tell me the approxmiate gross weight:
>1969 Olds 442 - with following accessories,
>turbo 400 automatic
>455 engine
>ac/ps/pb
>
>Getting ready to move and I need to see the trailer I'm going to rent is
>strong enough to carry this car.
>
>Thanks,
>Richard Fuqua
>'69 442
>
>
That car will weigh in the 3200-3600ª range.  I've rented U-Haul 'car
haulers' and carried 4000ª + vehicles on them.  The tow car is the biggest
problem, if it is less than 4000ª.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 04:04:45 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

At 01:50 PM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>              I posted this earlier, but it looks like the message never
>came though.  I though I'd try it again.               Thanks.
 > >I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the
other >day.  I know this topic was discussed earlier but I'm afraid I didn't
take >good enough notes.  (I accidentally trashed the messages) > >It's a kit
that runs about $50 and uses the small cannisters of oxygen and >propane.  It
can also use map(sp?) gas.  The package says it's capable of >welding up to
1/2" thick plate steel and cutting through 3/16" thick steel. >It looks like a
mini acetyline (I'm a crappy speller, I know) setup only >without pressure
gauges.  It has seperate controls to regulate the oxygen >and propane. >
>Has anyone had experience with this type of setup? Is it worth a darn?  I'm
>trying to decide if I'd be better off waiting 'till I have enough money for
>a better setup.  I'm going to need to do some sheet metal welding on my
>cutlass soon and would like to do it myself but I haven't learned how to
>weld yet and I don't have a welding rig either.  I understand that welding
>with a torch type welder can warp sheetmetal easily from the heat.  Is it
>impossible to weld sheet metal without warping it with someting like this?
>Should I just save up for good mig welder? > >Thanks in advance for any
information. > >Greg Pruett >`72 Vista-Cruiser >`67 Cutlass Supreme > > > > >
Greg,

There are two theories about buying tools.  1. Buy the best there is, and
keep it forever.  2. Buy the cheapest there is, and discard it.

Most of these very inexpesive outfits work to a point.  However, I think if
I were in the market for an acetylene set, I would opt for a very good
outfit, and keep it.  Working around clouds of one of the best fuel gases,
leaking, has never been high on my WANT list.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 04:09:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Transmission Installation

Snipped:

>I have obtained all the parts necessary to complete this restoration:
>bell housing
>clutch
>pressure plate
>throw out bearing
>M-22
>Hurst shifter
>drive shaft
>clutch linkage
>misc. parts
>
>I am seeking advise and recommendations in several areas of
>installation.
>
>My 455 engine has a automatic crank,  I have been told that the crank
>will have to drilled to accept a new pilot
>bearing  OR the input shaft on my transmission have to be cut.  Please
>clarify this situation. What is best?
>

The front end of the input shaft of the transmission runs in a bearing in
the back side of the crank.  Cutting off the tit that engages the bearing is
NOT a good idea, and should not be considered an acceptable alternative!
Have the crank machined for the pilot bearing.

>Transmission alignment-  Is this a issue I should be concerned with, or
>should everything just bolt together?

If you have good parts, (an this includes matching the situation) it is just
a bolt up.

>
>Flywheel- Is this an item that should be balanced or do I just bolt it
>in? (OEM flywheel)

Optional.  It is probably factory balanced, and good to 5500 RPM anyway.

>All advice and recommendations welcome.
>
>Thanks,
>Richard Fuqua
>'69 442
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 04:33:19 -0300
Subject: oldmobile questions

Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote:
>
> The original message was received at Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT)
> from pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77]
>
>    ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
> <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>
>
>    ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> 550 <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>... Host unknown (Name server:
chebutco.ns.ca: host not found) > >    ----- Original message follows ----- >
 > Received: from dstaxpro (pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77]) >
by mh101.infi.net (Infinet-S-8.8.5) with SMTP id DAA17075 >         for
<oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>; Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT) >
Return-Path: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net > Message-ID: <33796976.47BE@lex.infi.net> >
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:27:50 -0400 > From: Don Sowers
<dstaxpro@lex.infi.net> > Reply-To: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net > Organization:
InfiNet > X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U) > MIME-Version: 1.0 > To:
oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca > Subject: olds questions > Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Want to
begin restoring my three Oldsmobiles soon and have some > questions.  Have
1969 Cutlass S conv with 350, 4-spd, posi, a/c need > approximate price of
guage package and availability and cost of fourth > gear syncro.  Also wonder
what engine is in this vehicle. Original gas > cap had notation of "use 100
octane fuel only" on it. What is necessary > to get this engine to run on
today's anemic fuel with no lead? Second > car is 1970 Cutlass Supreme 350
4-bbl a/t with a/c.  Fuel line going > into the carb has stripped out. How do
I rethread or replace > economically? Third car is 1972 Hurst 442 with
sunroof, 455 ramair, a/c, > etc. Wondering about the availability of a steel
sunroof replacement > panel and the H/O luminous gold stripe kit.  Also would
like suggestions > (related ones only please) on simplest way to proceed on
H/O rebuild > when it needs both quarters, deck and probably trunk floorpan
due to the > sunroof leaking moisture into the rear area. Appropriate
information and > suggestions appreciated. I would also like info on the
rarity of these > vehicles approximate value. Thank you. Mail Delivery
Subsystem wrote: > > The original message was received at Wed, 14 May 1997
03:26:13 -0400 (EDT) > from pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77] > >    -----
The following addresses had permanent fatal errors ----- >
<oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca> > >    ----- Transcript of session follows ----- >
550 <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>... Host unknown (Name server: chebutco.ns.ca:
host not found) > >    ----- Original message follows ----- > > Received:
from dstaxpro (pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77]) >         by
mh101.infi.net (Infinet-S-8.8.5) with SMTP id DAA17075 >         for
<oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>; Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT) >
Return-Path: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net > Message-ID: <33796976.47BE@lex.infi.net> >
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:27:50 -0400 > From: Don Sowers
<dstaxpro@lex.infi.net> > Reply-To: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net > Organization:
InfiNet > X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U) > MIME-Version: 1.0 > To:
oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca > Subject: olds questions > Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Want to
begin restoring my three Oldsmobiles soon and have some > questions.  Have
1969 Cutlass S conv with 350, 4-spd, posi, a/c need > approximate price of
guage package and availability and cost of fourth > gear syncro.  Also wonder
what engine is in this vehicle. Original gas > cap had notation of "use 100
octane fuel only" on it. What is necessary > to get this engine to run on
today's anemic fuel with no lead? Second > car is 1970 Cutlass Supreme 350
4-bbl a/t with a/c.  Fuel line going > into the carb has stripped out. How do
I rethread or replace > economically? Third car is 1972 Hurst 442 with
sunroof, 455 ramair, a/c, > etc. Wondering about the availability of a steel
sunroof replacement > panel and the H/O luminous gold stripe kit.  Also would
like suggestions > (related ones only please) on simplest way to proceed on
H/O rebuild > when it needs both quarters, deck and probably trunk floorpan
due to the > sunroof leaking moisture into the rear area. Appropriate
information and > suggestions appreciated. I would also like info on the
rarity of these > vehicles approximate value. Thank you.

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 04:34:24 -0300
Subject: Re: oldmobile questions

Don Sowers wrote:
>
> Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote:
> >
> > The original message was received at Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT)
> > from pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77]
> >
> >    ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
> > <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>
> >
> >    ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> > 550 <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>... Host unknown (Name server:
chebutco.ns.ca: host not found) > > > >    ----- Original message follows
----- > > > > Received: from dstaxpro (pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77]) >
>         by mh101.infi.net (Infinet-S-8.8.5) with SMTP id DAA17075 > >
for <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>; Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT) > >
Return-Path: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net > > Message-ID:
<33796976.47BE@lex.infi.net> > > Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:27:50 -0400 > >
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net> > > Reply-To: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net >
> Organization: InfiNet > > X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U) > > MIME-Version:
1.0 > > To: oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca > > Subject: olds questions > >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 
>
> > > Want to begin restoring my three Oldsmobiles soon and have some > >
questions.  Have 1969 Cutlass S conv with 350, 4-spd, posi, a/c need > >
approximate price of guage package and availability and cost of fourth > >
gear syncro.  Also wonder what engine is in this vehicle. Original gas > > cap
had notation of "use 100 octane fuel only" on it. What is necessary > > to get
this engine to run on today's anemic fuel with no lead? Second > > car is 1970
Cutlass Supreme 350 4-bbl a/t with a/c.  Fuel line going > > into the carb has
stripped out. How do I rethread or replace > > economically? Third car is 1972
Hurst 442 with sunroof, 455 ramair, a/c, > > etc. Wondering about the
availability of a steel sunroof replacement > > panel and the H/O luminous
gold stripe kit.  Also would like suggestions > > (related ones only please)
on simplest way to proceed on H/O rebuild > > when it needs both quarters,
deck and probably trunk floorpan due to the > > sunroof leaking moisture into
the rear area. Appropriate information and > > suggestions appreciated. I
would also like info on the rarity of these > > vehicles approximate value.
Thank you. > Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote: > > > > The original message was
received at Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT) > > from
pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77] > > > >    ----- The following addresses
had permanent fatal errors ----- > > <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca> > > > >
----- Transcript of session follows ----- > > 550
<oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>... Host unknown (Name server: chebutco.ns.ca: host
not found) > > > >    ----- Original message follows ----- > > > > Received:
from dstaxpro (pa3dsp5.lex.infi.net [206.31.221.77]) > >         by
mh101.infi.net (Infinet-S-8.8.5) with SMTP id DAA17075 > >         for
<oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>; Wed, 14 May 1997 03:26:13 -0400 (EDT) > >
Return-Path: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net > > Message-ID:
<33796976.47BE@lex.infi.net> > > Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:27:50 -0400 > >
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net> > > Reply-To: dstaxpro@lex.infi.net >
> Organization: InfiNet > > X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U) > > MIME-Version:
1.0 > > To: oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca > > Subject: olds questions > >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 
>
> > > Want to begin restoring my three Oldsmobiles soon and have some > >
questions.  Have 1969 Cutlass S conv with 350, 4-spd, posi, a/c need > >
approximate price of guage package and availability and cost of fourth > >
gear syncro.  Also wonder what engine is in this vehicle. Original gas > > cap
had notation of "use 100 octane fuel only" on it. What is necessary > > to get
this engine to run on today's anemic fuel with no lead? Second > > car is 1970
Cutlass Supreme 350 4-bbl a/t with a/c.  Fuel line going > > into the carb has
stripped out. How do I rethread or replace > > economically? Third car is 1972
Hurst 442 with sunroof, 455 ramair, a/c, > > etc. Wondering about the
availability of a steel sunroof replacement > > panel and the H/O luminous
gold stripe kit.  Also would like suggestions > > (related ones only please)
on simplest way to proceed on H/O rebuild > > when it needs both quarters,
deck and probably trunk floorpan due to the > > sunroof leaking moisture into
the rear area. Appropriate information and > > suggestions appreciated. I
would also like info on the rarity of these > > vehicles approximate value.
Thank you.

------------------------------

From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 04:38:48 -0300
Subject: 71 442 info

I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and have
passed the car to me. It's in good condition and all it really needs is
some replacement of worn out parts (front end bushings,tires,paint job
etc). I'm not looking to make it a show car just a really clean 442. I
guess I'll get to my question. The car has had its shair of bumps and
grinds. It's had both front fenders replaced and a small amount of bondo
on the rear quarter panel. Over all it's a  clean car.



How much does bondo reduce the value of the
car?
 It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do it one
last time.
 Where can I find factory info on this year car?(original decal
placement,options,pictures etc)
 I'm just starting to learn about 442's so if I seem fresh I am. I would
appreciate any info on 1971 442's or places I can find any info.
Thanks     71' 442

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 16:47:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[3]: Cutlass electrical problem- help

I've had a couple alternators go out on my '89 cutlass supreme the last
time I exchanged at NAPA  the new one came with a 1 year warrenty and a
two year tow offer   if it dies and I call a 800ª they tow it for free
(not sure how far) it hasnt gone out since

On Tue, 13 May 1997, David Brown wrote:

> A couple of years ago at a Car Quest distribution center open house, an
> alternator rebuild rep was extolling the virtues of the their redesigned
> parts in the CS (?) (W-body alternator) model. Parts redesigned
> specifically to combat the high underhood temps. I can't remember the
> company's name, unfortunately.
>
> Maybe you can find the right counter guy to find this brand or another with
> the redesigned parts. But then if that makes the alt last 6 months past the
> warranty . . .
>
> David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
> Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
> http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
> http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm
>
> Get the zip file for local viewing from:
> ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
>
> ------------
>           My wife's 92 B**ck Regal Gran Sport (just think of it as a
>           Cutlass Supreme) with the 3.8 l B**ck V6 chews through
>           alternators.  I seem to recall a past thread about problems
>           with W-body alternators.  Does anyone have any further info?
>           Is this, in fact, a "computer-controlled" alternator, and if
>           so, what exactly does the computer control?  Is there
>           something I should be looking at other than the alternator?
>           The voltmeter is starting to do its dance again, indicating
>           that it's probably time for the annual alternator
>           replacement.  Fortunately, the rebuilt alternator usually
>           fails while still under warranty, so it's only the
>           inconvenience of having to do the work.  (Yes, I know, I'm
>           not a fan of rebuilts either - and wouldn't put one in my
>           442s - but frankly I didn't want to take the time in this
>           case).  Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>           Joe Padavano
>           jpada@orbital.com
>
>           66 442
>           68 W-30
>           69 H/O
>           70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@mail.bright.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:08:29 -0300
Subject: Shipping Carriers

All,

In the process of putting my 442 back together, I've been
buying/selling/trading parts to various people around the country.  One
problem I've come across is shipping sheet metal parts from one place to
another at a reasonable cost.  By the time it's all over, the  price of the
shipping can make it unfeasable to buy or sell these parts with a reasonable
total cost.  Just last month I sent a Cutlass Supreme decklid ~300 mi. which
I sold to a gentleman for $50.00. After adding in shipping costs (by private
carrier b/c UPS will not ship anything >~130" by their formula which is
something like 2X(length) + width + height= ) which were nearly $50.00
alone, he's into the part almost 2X  of what I wanted for it originally.  In
short, I'd like to know if anyone has found a more reasonable way to ship
these parts over the road, by rail, or some other major carrier than UPS.


Thanks,

Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:25:07 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile Factory Photos For Sale (5/14)

I have the following Oldsmobile related items which I would like to
sell:

Oldsmobile Factory Photos.  All are 8 x 10 black and white photos and
are in excellent original condition.  $12.00, including shipping to any
address in North America for one photo.  Add $7.00 for each additional
photo on the same order.

1.  1985 Indianapolis Pace Car, showing the Calais pace car in one view
and the first Oldsmobile Indy pace car in 1949 in another view.  Also
includes an on-photo caption describing the two pace cars and
Oldsmobile=B9s Indy pace car history.

2.  1970 Rallye 350, showing a rear quarter shot in one view and a front
quarter shot in a second view.

3.  Toronado, showing a side view of a 1966 Toronado in one view and a
side view of a 1972 Toronado in a second view.

4.  An outdoor side view of a1897 Oldsmobile, with three gentlemen on
board, with an attached caption from Oldsmobile Public Relations.

5.  A front quarter view of a 1930 Oldsmobile rumble seat roadster, with
a lady in the rumble seat and a gentleman in the front seat, with an
attached caption from Oldsmobile Public Relations.  Shot outside a
mansion, with palm trees in the background.

6.  A front quarter view of a 1961 F-85 Cutlass Sports Coupe, with an
attached caption from Oldsmobile Public Relations.

7.  1976 Cutlass multiview photo, showing a Cutlass S sedan, a Cutlass
Supreme coupe, the new Cutlass S grill, a shifter knob for the 5-speed
overdrive transmission, the Hatch Roof option, the control for the
optional Load Leveling System, and the control for the optional Twilight
Sentinel.

8.  1976 multiview photo, showing a Delta 88 Royale-Crown Landau, a
Toronado, a 88 Hardtop Sedan, and a Ninety-Eight sedan.

9.  1976 multiview photo, showing a Starfire GT, an Omega Brougham
Sedan, an Omega Brougham coupe, and a Vista Cruiser wagon.

10.  1976 Cutlass multiview photo, showing a Supreme Brougham Coupe, an
S coupe, and photos of the interiors on those two cars.

(5/14/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
any of these photographs, or if you would like additional information
about any of them.  Thank you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:43:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Shipping Carriers

I recently sold a bunch of Pontiac parts.  A couple of small items I
sent UPS, which was no problem.  The rest of the parts (75% of a
Firebird) were finally sold to a guy from Chicago who drove down and
picked them up.  I could have sold the stuff sooner if there was a
reasonbly priced carrier.  Nobody wanted to pay for long distance
shipping for large items like hoods, seats, rear ends, front subframe,
ect.  One solution for a low dollar item like your deck lid would have
been to meet halfway.  It may cost you some time and gas, but you both
benefit.  You still get rid of the part and the other guy doesn't pay
too much for shipping.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 06:05:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

Why not just go with Flowmasters!!!
Increase in horsepower and breathing
1964 Olds 442
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 10:23:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Mass. Salvage Yard

     Don't know the name of yard in this area, but I will soon!  I live in
     Milford, MA so its just a short hop away.  Perhaps this weekend.....

     - Pete
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Mass. Salvage Yard Author:
Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu> at imail Date:    5/13/97 12:58 AM


I was cruising through Uxbridge and Douglas Massachusetts tonight and
spotted this HUGE salvage yard off of  local highway 16.  Anyone from the
New England area been there?  I won't have time to check it out before I
leave and was just curious if there was anything worth while in there.

I also spotted a front clip from (I guess) a 68-72 cutlass sitting on
someone's front lawn further down rte 16 near the Webster boarder.  There
was the quarter panels and hood, and no noticeable car to put them on.  I
just figured I let you guys know about it.  Maybe it's for sale and
someone in the area would want to check on it.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme



------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 10:33:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Mass. Salvage Yard

>      Don't know the name of yard in this area, but I will soon!  I live in
>      Milford, MA so its just a short hop away.  Perhaps this weekend.....
>

Pete Aand Other Mass. List Members):

I'm not sure of the yard in Douglas/Uxbridge either -- it might be associated
with Goldie's Used Auto -- but seeing how you're in Milford, have you
ever tried Millis Used?  I haven't been there for a while, but I used to have
good luck there.  This was in my pre-Olds days though, so...

Also have had good luck at Rich's in Hudson, and Dufour's in Lancaster

Tim (One of the Few 'Native' Framingham Boys) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:37:21 -0300
Subject: EGR (was: 76 Big Block Intake continued)

Greg Pruett wrote:

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation.  If I remember correctly it routes
some of the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold.  The fuel is never
completely burned in the cylinder, so some escapes in the exhaust.  The
theory behind the EGR is that you run some exhaust gasses back though the
engine to burn off the residual fuel to cut down on emissions.

     Close, Greg, but not quite.  The real answer is much worse.  The actual
     reason for EGR is to introduce the exhaust gasses back into the intake
     to dilute the intake charge and cause it to burn less efficiently (and
     thus cooler).  The rationale is that oxides of nitrogen (NOX) are
     produced by the heat of combustion - the hotter the combustion process,
     the greater the NOX produced.  EGR reduces the combustion efficiency
     and thus the temperature and NOX emissions.  EGR is often combined with
     a reduction or elimination of spark vacuum advance to further reduce
     combustion efficiency.  The first versions of this appeared in the
     69-70 time frame as the temperature controlled spark advance valve
     which shut off vacuum advance unless the engine was on the verge of a
     meltdown.

     Unfortunately, this is counter productive with reducing hydrocarbons
     (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO), both of which require the hottest, most
     efficient combustion process to maximize their reduction.  As you may
     surmise, this is a delicate balancing act, wherein the amount of EGR
     must be regulated to reduce NOX to required levels while not exceeding
     the limits on CO and HC.  Three-way catalysts and computer-controlled
     spark advance and EGR valves have certainly simplified this problem.
     And, obviously, anything which reduces combustion efficiency (such as
     EGR) also reduces power output and gas mileage.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30





------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 10:43:56 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

>I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the other
>day.
>It's a kit that runs about $50 and uses the small cannisters of oxygen and
>propane.
>Has anyone had experience with this type of setup?

Don't bother with the kit! It is ok for brazing but not for welding. And it
is damn frustrating for the beginner (voice of experience). I wouldn't try
oxy/act welding without instruction and a quality welding kit with
regulators. Currently I'm saving my pennies for a Lincoln MIG welder.

Ray
70 Cutlass Conv
70 442 Conv

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 10:54:19 -0300
Subject: Re: quicktime????

At 12:41 AM 5/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can anyone help me download Quicktime?  Any websites that have this
>free?
>Marty
>68 442
>

http://quicktime.apple.com/sw/sw2.html

Ray
70 Cutlass Conv
70 442 Conv

------------------------------

From: Kajrav <dilligaf@tl.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:05:54 -0300
Subject: RE:quicktime download

Can anyone help me download Quicktime?  Any websites that have this
free?
Marty
68 442

Marty you may want to try http://quicktime.apple.com/
Hope this helps.

Larry

------------------------------

From: Darren Shroeger <ndg@traverse.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 07:05:15 -0300
Subject: An Invite: the Pre-Century Rocket Lounge Bash

DaNG,

My friends and I spent a few days polishing up my basement with
an Olds-inspired theme... Threw an all-niter last Saturday and started
a heckuva monster: The Rocket Lounge After Hours Club!

Everyone that walks in fAlls in love with the place: Rocket logos
everywhere (Gotta love my 66 Toro hubcaps-turned-ashtrays!) and
the speakeasy chilling lounge vibe.

It's such a beautiful thing that I simply must share it with y'all.
So it's potentially official: I will be throwing the Pre-Century Rocket
Lounge Bash at my place the day *before* the big ol' Olds 100thfest.

So for the brave and adventerous, please set your travel planners back
half a day to come up to beautiful Traverse City, Michigan for one darn
pleasant evening/late-night!

The official invite, including exact directions to the Rocket Lounge,
is to come ........ Perhaps a nice .jpg attachment for everyone if Greg
can swing it.

P.S. We used Rocket Polish to spiff the basement up right-nice.
Available to the public from Rocket Science at the big 100th!



- -Darren Shroeger

Nielsen Design Group
114 East Front Street
Traverse City, Michigan 49684
t:616.946.0925
f:616.946.2363
e:ndg@traverse.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª673
********************************
