To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #635


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 28 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 635

'64 Vista Cruiser hood letters
Re: Motor Mounts
Re: 91 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - Broken Top Lift
Valvetrain noise
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
FAQ
FAQ
unsubscribe oldsmobile
'64 Vista Cruiser hood letters
Re: 1970 Cutlass SX
RE: Rear Wing
Re: 72 Toro 455 build up ?'s
Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable
Re: 1970 Cutlass SX
RE: Rear Wing
Re: 1964 F-85 Hood top molding and letters melted
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Motion Hurst, OCF show
Re: 1970 Cutlass SX
RTV/425s/P.B.
1970 Cutlass SX Build Sheet
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable
Re: I need help identifying a 455 block.
Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo ca
Re: RTV/425s/P.B.
V.C./442
Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable
Re: Valvetrain noise
Re: 1970 Cutlass SX Build Sheet
Re: Motion Hurst, OCF show
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)
Olds center caps
Re: Defending NASA's newest flame (Mostly Non Olds)
Re: Olds center caps
1960 Super 88 (?) for sale
Message-Id: <97Apr28.103823adt.37037(2)@chebucto.ns.ca>
Re: Parts wanted
455 frame mounts for 71 cutlass
transmition swap
75 hurst/olds
84 H/O factory front plate !
Re: Question:'67 to '65 axle swap

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:52:05 -0300
Subject: '64 Vista Cruiser hood letters

I just got a catalog from USA Parts Supply for full size cars.  They list
'64 Trunk letters in there for $38.95.  Don't you think these would work
on this fellows Vista Cruiser.  I mean, do you think Olds would have had 4
sets of Oldsmobile letters for the front and rear of Cutlasses and the
front and rear of full size cars?  I'd think they would have used the same
letters for all these cars.  Anyone have a parts book that they can check
this to?

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:24:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts

In a message dated 97-04-27 18:55:16 EDT, you write:

<< After reading about motor mounts for the past few months on and off I'm
 confused as ever..  I have a 1968 442 with no motor and no mounts on the
 frame for the rubber mounts to bolt to.. Question is can I use 68-72
 frame mounts, and is there is a difference in engine location between
 small block and big block rubber motor mounts.  Which would be best to
 use so the motoer sits right for headers?
  >>OK, let me clear this up for you.    small Block and big block olds frame
mounts
mount in the same position.  The difference is in the size of the frame
mount.  Both BB and Sb have two bolt holes on top and on on the bottom.  Now
this applies to
68-72 A body cars (Cutlass's)  as long as you match bb motor mount to bb
frame mount and sb motor mount to sb frame mount, no problems will arise.  If
you need the frame mount described in further detail, call me after 4:00
eastern time and ask for Mark, i will describe the differences.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30
313 336 8135

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:27:13 -0300
Subject: Re: 91 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - Broken Top Lift

I have a LeBaron convertible that is built much like my old
convertibles.  The top frame seems sturdy although not of cast frame
rails like the others.  It is all stamped steel.  I have put tops on
several of these cars & they seem to be alike.

This surprises me that Olds didn't do better in their top construction.
It seems that they would have required the conversion people to meet at
least Chrysler standards.  I don't know about Ford's convertibles, but I
have never heard anything bad about them.  I had never heard anything
bad about Olds convertibles either although one doesn't see many.

My understanding is that Chrysler is the only one of the
big three that designs their convertibles to be convertibles
and builds them that way on their assembly lines.  GM and Ford
use a subcontractor to convert hardtops to convertibles.

Someone posted that a company called ACS(?) was doing it for
GM.  I had a long time, back when the Mustang convertibles
were re-introduced (early eighties), that they were conversions
also.

I assume back in the older years, before '76, they were built on
the line as convertibles, but I don't really know.

Oldsmobile was building convertibles up until '75.  I think the
only convertible model that year was the Delta 88.  I don't know
when they dropped the Cutlass convertible.

Until the eighties, the last production GM convertible was the
76 Eldorado.

Lee Iococca and Chrysler brought the convertible back in 1982,
I think.  One of those nasty K cars.  Ford introduced a Mustang
convertible in '84(?).  I don't know when GM jumped back in the
game.  Sunbird or Firebird?

Those late seventies were pretty bleak years for America, no
convertibles, and disco music.

I'm going from my highly unreliable memory, so feel to correct
me, if I'm wrong.

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\ (810)
825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/ Sterling Hts.,
MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 12:51:37 -0300
Subject: Valvetrain noise

            Hi all,     Well i've got good news &bad, 1st. the good
the 455 ipurhased about a month or so ago does have a forged crank &rods i
haven't had the time to check to see if it has been bored or not ,you know
don't have all those fine measuring tools .  2nd. Bad news:  i've been
experiencing valve train noise, i thought it was a bad lifter or a weak
spring but i had a friend who is a local mechanic look at it with me. He
hooked-up a vacuum gauge to it &even when i'am just trying to crank it
over,  the needle on the gauge is bouncing; which in turn indicates that I
have a vacuum leak.  I did a compression check on the engine, and all came
up to 190 psi.
But, the ª2 cylinder was slow to build up.  i haven't done a leak-down test
yet.  i'm suspecting it's a valve seat.

Does anybody have any problems with valve seats?  can anyone give me any
advice?

Thank You,
LUke

------------------------------

From: Gail Adams <gadams@remc7.k12.mi.us>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 23:10:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

If it was the same cap that came off no matter which wheel you put it on
then the problem is definitely the cap.  I've had the same problem on my
66 Delta conv spinners.  I found that the flanges on mine were put on w/
rivets that had loosened.  I drilled them out and put in new pop-rivets.
That tightened them up nicely and no more flying caps.  Check to see if
the flanges are loose
Tom Adams

On Sun, 27 Apr 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Put my '64 convertible on the road today for the first time this year.
> Didn't go too bad, except I have a problem that seems really simple and I
> can't find a fix. I am almost embarrassed to ask this but here goes. Last
> year the thing started to lose the left front wheel cover with great
> regularity. It is one of the old kind with a big diecast fake knockoff
> spinner on it, which might be adding to the problem. Anyway, I tinkered
> with it all year with little luck. I bent the flanges on the inside with
> the teeth on them, I wire-brushed the wheel rim, I even swapped hubcaps.
> No success.
>
> Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again. Put
> it back on with a rubber mallet (it takes quite a bit of work for it to
> go on, BTW; it's not like it's too loose) and after another few miles it
> came off again just as I was turning into the garage. Could I have a
> wheel that is flexing? What else might cause this? Kind of scary to think
> a steel wheel could move around that much. Any suggestions to keeping the
> thing on? Superglue maybe? :)
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada > > > >

------------------------------

From: Gail Adams <gadams@remc7.k12.mi.us>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 23:26:57 -0300
Subject: FAQ

Could someone please (re)post the address for the FAQ list.  Is it
possible to download the list
Tom Adams

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:40:16 -0300
Subject: FAQ

OL>Could someone please (re)post the address for the FAQ list.  Is it
OL>possible to download the list
OL>Tom Adams

www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

------------------------------

From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:39:43 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmobile cdogg73@elknet.net

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 23:06:16 -0300
Subject: '64 Vista Cruiser hood letters

OL>I just got a catalog from USA Parts Supply for full size cars.  They list
OL>'64 Trunk letters in there for $38.95.  Don't you think these would work
OL>on this fellows Vista Cruiser.  I mean, do you think Olds would have had 4
OL>sets of Oldsmobile letters for the front and rear of Cutlasses and the
OL>front and rear of full size cars?  I'd think they would have used the same
OL>letters for all these cars.  Anyone have a parts book that they can check
OL>this to?

OL>Paul Hartlieb
OL>plh@leba.net
OL>'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
OL>'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

USA has a web site. You can either down load a text catalog or order a
illastrated catalog.
www.usapartssupply.com

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:23:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass SX

At 02:47 PM 4/27/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have 1970 Cutlass supreme SX with a w-32 engine, does anybody else
>have a 1970 sx with w-32 engine opition? i have the biuld sheet on mine
>and been told there were only a few hundred on the cutlass sx with w-32
>ever made
>
>michael poole
>1970 Cutlass supreme SX W-32
>
Michael

        Hi! My name is Jim Chermack. I've had 2 SX W-32's. Still have a
48,000 original mile car. From everything that I have found about these cars
the number 1,025 for a production total comes up. There were about 7,100
SX's made in 70. Most were 2 bbl. cars with a 2.56:1 rear. I have the build
sheet on mine also. It should list the Y-79 option and the W-32 option.
Where was your car built? Mine was from the Framingham, Mass plant. My
father-in-law worked at the plant for some time and has been somewhat
helpful in his recollections. Let me know what you would like to know about
them. There have been 5 W-32's in this part of Virginia. 2 of them were
convertibles.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:36:18 -0300
Subject: RE: Rear Wing

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- -----Original Message-----
From:Tom Williams [SMTP:tjwilli@megavision.com]
Sent:Sunday, April 27, 1997 11:16 AM
To:Oldsmobile list
Subject:Rear Wing

Hi all,
   I am interested in some feedback on rear wings sold by Brothers
and or Year One. I am interested in purchasing a rear wing and wanted
some feed back from anybody who has purchased one of these wings. I have
been told that the one sold by Brothers Automotive is pretty close to
the originals. Please respond with any feedback. =20

Thanks,
Tom Williams
70-W31
OCA ª 28886

Yes they are exact!  You need to be sure to buy the 3 peice set.  This =
is the same is the factory/Dealer installed wing.  Adds alot to the car.

Aaron

1972 442 W30

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From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:53:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 72 Toro 455 build up ?'s

> I know J heads are supposed to be the worst of the BB heads, but can I use
> them and stillget reasonable performance? If so what type of machining
> needs to be done to them? Thanks
>
> Jason Labay
> 93 Z/28
> 80 4-4-2 W-30
> 75 H/O
> >

You can make J heads flow as good as Fs if you put enough money in them.
You can lower the chamber ccs by shaving the heads. Porting and
polishing and match porting will make it flow. Js already have hardend
exhaust seats. Check with the FAQ and as I do not remember if a large
valve version of the Js were produced. If not get the intakes "hogged
out" to 2.02.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:42:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable

when I was working on a f*rd br*nc* a couple years ago (chills just
tripped up & down my spine) I was shocked that they used rtv as the
factory gasket for the rear diff

Dustin

BTW  that particular bronco was the most pathetic vehicle I have ever
turned a wrench on I spent 8 months trying to sell it with something new
and different breaking everytime we got it put back together combined I
think charley and I had about 400 hours into that  piece of Sh*t
amounting to about 10 times what it was worth



On Sun, 27 Apr 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:
> >
> >2)  Was using RTV black a bad idea?
>
> The answer to this question is almost unvariably the same answer to the
> question "Does it leak now?"
>
> When used correctly, RTV is an excellent sealant.  In fact, you probably
> wouldn't have needed to fuss with cutting out new gaskets at all (I
> ~distinctly~ remember how much fun those were!)  When applied to ~clean~
> ~dry~ surfaces, RTV is very effective.  My best gasked set I've ever
> installed came in a tube...  Be careful using RTV on O2 sensor'd vehicles,
> though.  Unless you use the right stuff, you can foul up the sensor. (it's a
> stretch, but it is possible)  The silicone fumes get into the crankcase
> during the curing process, and then make it through the PCV system, and get
> burned up, and then form deposits on the sensor, they say.  Theoretically,
> if RTV Blue (The cheap stuff, AKA SmurfCum) is allowed to properly cure
> before putting the parts in place, it'd be OK.  But why take the chance?
> Anyway, enough on that...  :)
>
>
>
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>              500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>              Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>      "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
>                     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:58:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass SX

mtpoole wrote:
>
> I have 1970 Cutlass supreme SX with a w-32 engine, does anybody else
> have a 1970 sx with w-32 engine opition? i have the biuld sheet on mine
> and been told there were only a few hundred on the cutlass sx with w-32
> ever made
>
> michael poole
> 1970 Cutlass supreme SX W-32
Michael,

I have just aquired a 70 Cutlass SX W-32, I am still trying to learn
about it my self.  Where did you find you build sheet??  I will keep in
touch and let you know when I find something out about these cars.  My
is Gold Nugget with dark brown interior, A/C, P/S, A/T and ralley pack
dash, 12 Bolt Posi w/3.23 Gears all numbers matching.  Got it from a
friend who just picked up a 70 W-31 4/sp, I am the 4th owner.  Am in the
process of restoring it, will have the interior done this summer and
hopefully paint it next winter.

Later,

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32
70 Cuda 383 Convertable
73 Dodge Challenger Ralley

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:55:15 -0300
Subject: RE: Rear Wing

- ----------
From:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca[SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent:  Sunday, April 27, 1997 10:41 PM
To:  Rabid
Subject:  RE: Rear Wing
- -----Original Message-----
From:Tom Williams [SMTP:tjwilli@megavision.com]
Sent:Sunday, April 27, 1997 11:16 AM
To:Oldsmobile list
Subject:Rear Wing

Hi all,
   I am interested in some feedback on rear wings sold by Brothers
and or Year One. I am interested in purchasing a rear wing and wanted
some feed back from anybody who has purchased one of these wings. I have
been told that the one sold by Brothers Automotive is pretty close to
the originals. Please respond with any feedback. =20

Thanks,
Tom Williams
70-W31
OCA ª 28886

Yes they are exact!  You need to be sure to buy the 3 peice set.  This =
is the same is the factory/Dealer installed wing.  Adds alot to the car.

Aaron

1972 442 W30

I do not know whether or not the Brothers piece is an exact reproduction =
of the factory original wing or not. What I do know is that the Year One =
piece is NOT a direct bolt on replacement. The mounting holes on the YO =
piece do not match the holes for a factory spoiler. Also, the pedestals =
require filing to fit the contour of the trunk. By the time you are =
done, the wing sits too far back (towards the rear window) in relation =
to the factory original. Save yourself the headache (if possible) and =
find a used original.

Jim Rabideau
rabid@cybrzn.com
70 W30

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:03:53 -0300
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 Hood top molding and letters melted

Jim; I was just talking to a guy who said he had the hood wind split
molding and all the OLDSMOBILE leters , except the B and the I. NOS parts.
His name is Vic Chetcuti at vchetcut@mustang.uwo.ca ,which is his daughters
E-mail address. Give him a call, and tell him who sent you please.
Scott Kozler
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:08:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

On Sun, 27 Apr 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again. Put
> it back on with a rubber mallet (it takes quite a bit of work for it to
> go on, BTW; it's not like it's too loose) and after another few miles it
> came off again just as I was turning into the garage. Could I have a
> wheel that is flexing? What else might cause this? Kind of scary to think
> a steel wheel could move around that much. Any suggestions to keeping the
> thing on? Superglue maybe? :)
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada > DUCT TAPE, DUCT TAPE, DUCT TAPE    surprised you havent tried it yet
:)

Dustin

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:23:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

I would check for excess lateral run out (side to side wobble) on the
wheel itself - a heavy hub cap ( or a cap that is missing a piece) could
be thrown off at a certain speed - it literaly vibrates itself off the
wheel.  A shop manual would give you the acceptable limits of lateral
and radial (out of round) runout.  Easy to ckeck while spinning the
wheel.  Good luck. If the spare wheel is good I'd try that.

------------------------------

From: Howard <howardh@magicnet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:24:15 -0300
Subject: Motion Hurst, OCF show

For those who attended the Olds Club of Florida car show on Sat. (
4/26/97), you
would have seen that 68 Hurst (Commotion by Motion) there. Parked next to my
'84 Hurst, my windows are still rattling from that open exhaust so loudly
displayed when trailered at the end of the show, but wonderful to hear. The
car was also at our first annual show in March of '96. I don't know who the
owner is.
BTW, what a terrific show put on by OCF, and especially the show
coordinator Bob
and Cheryl Handren, club Pres. Rodney Kincaid, the judges, and all the many
other volunteers.
There were 151 Olds on display from 1920's to the 80's. Best of show went
to an immaculate '72 442 W30 owned by Drew Koba, the local Olds dealer
parts guy (let's see all those receipts Drew :)). Although it rained most
of the day except for the morning, no spirits were dampened.
For myself, last years show I got 2nd place in class, this year 1st place
in class, can't wait for next year.


      ___   ___ ___
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /
   /  HURST //  /
  /  /  /  //  /_______
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \
         /  //  /OLDS/  /
        /  / \  \___/  /
       /__/   \_______/

  Howard Hosenbold
  howardh@magicnet.net
  1984 Hurst Olds
  Production ª 2748
  OCA ª 024551
  HOCA ª 1259
  OCF ª 24551

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:33:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass SX

>I have just aquired a 70 Cutlass SX W-32, I am still trying to learn
>about it my self.  Where did you find you build sheet??  I will keep in
>touch and let you know when I find something out about these cars.  My
>is Gold Nugget with dark brown interior, A/C, P/S, A/T and ralley pack
>dash, 12 Bolt Posi w/3.23 Gears all numbers matching.  Got it from a
>friend who just picked up a 70 W-31 4/sp, I am the 4th owner.  Am in the
>process of restoring it, will have the interior done this summer and
>hopefully paint it next winter.

>John Oder
>70 Cutlass SX W-32
>70 Cuda 383 Convertable
>73 Dodge Challenger Ralley

I also have a 70 Cutlass SX W32. I found the build sheet(what was left of
it) under the front passenger seat. This car was built in Linden, NJ

                                        Daniel Hall
                                        cdhall@MCI2000.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:46:06 -0300
Subject: RTV/425s/P.B.

OL>425s

OL>The block without main bearing caps is best reguarded as boat anchor
OL>material.  When the block was constructed the main bearing caps were bored
OL>at the same time as the block, and as a result every cap is 'custom fitted'
OL>to its block position.  This is not to say that it is impossible to find an
OL>accidental perfect fit, or that it cannot be rebored, but it usually isn't
OL>worth the expense unless the block is a 'rare bird' that needs to be saved
OL>for say a special restoration.  If it were mine I'd junk it.

OL>The Wiz

Any time you do a complete rebuild you should have the mains at least
checked. The temperature cycles an engine goes thru can cause slight
changes in the blocks structure called "core shift". Which can cause the
mains to get out of alignment. More than likely it will be cheaper (not
much) to get another short block (455 no replacement for displacement)
but I would not get rid of your 425 block. Who knows 10-20 years from
now it could be worth a lot more than it is now.

Considering that 425s have not been installed in an Olds car for almost
30 years now I would consider them to be on the endangered species list.
If you have any endangered species you want to "junk" post it on the
list I'm sure somebody here wouldn't mined having one!

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: CDHall <cdhall@mci2000.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:40:36 -0300
Subject: 1970 Cutlass SX Build Sheet

On the subject of build sheets, where is the serial ª recorded?

                                        Daniel Hall
                                        cdhall@MCI2000.com



- ----------
> From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass SX
> Date: Sunday, April 27, 1997 11:23 PM
>
> At 02:47 PM 4/27/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >I have 1970 Cutlass supreme SX with a w-32 engine, does anybody else
> >have a 1970 sx with w-32 engine opition? i have the biuld sheet on mine
> >and been told there were only a few hundred on the cutlass sx with w-32
> >ever made
> >
> >michael poole
> >1970 Cutlass supreme SX W-32
> >
> Michael
>
>         Hi! My name is Jim Chermack. I've had 2 SX W-32's. Still have a
> 48,000 original mile car. From everything that I have found about these
cars
> the number 1,025 for a production total comes up. There were about 7,100
> SX's made in 70. Most were 2 bbl. cars with a 2.56:1 rear. I have the
build
> sheet on mine also. It should list the Y-79 option and the W-32 option.
> Where was your car built? Mine was from the Framingham, Mass plant. My
> father-in-law worked at the plant for some time and has been somewhat
> helpful in his recollections. Let me know what you would like to know
about
> them. There have been 5 W-32's in this part of Virginia. 2 of them were
> convertibles.
>
> Jim Chermack
> 70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
> 72 442 (350)
> 86 Ninety Eight
> 94 Cutlass Supreme
> 96 C-1500
>

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 16:13:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

>> Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again. Put
>> it back on with a rubber mallet (it takes quite a bit of work for it to
>> go on, BTW; it's not like it's too loose) and after another few miles it
>> came off again just as I was turning into the garage. Could I have a
>> wheel that is flexing? What else might cause this? Kind of scary to think
>> a steel wheel could move around that much. Any suggestions to keeping the
>> thing on? Superglue maybe? :)
>>
>> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada >> >DUCT TAPE, DUCT TAPE, DUCT TAPE    surprised you havent tried it
yet :)

Hey, think maybe you could velcro the little b***ard onto the rim? :)  Well
it is sorta adressing the symptom and not the problem but it'd be funny if
it worked.  Allthough I don't think it would work too well if the velcro got
dirty.

Believe it or not, I actually drove a couple of weeks with a new car stereo
velcroed under the dash of the V-C....Honest.  I had just bought it and was
dying to have some tunes in the car.  I didn't have the time to install the
stereo properly, so I got some adhesive-backed velcro strips and slapped it
right under the dash.  I admit that I'd hold it to make sure it wouldn't
fall as I took a sharp turn or hit the brakes, but otherwise it stayed in
place fine.  Allthough I wouldn't reccomend anyone try this at home, it
might void the warranty. :)

Well ridiculous remarks aside, is it possible this thing is just vibrating
loose as you go over bumps and potholes due to weak tab(s)?  The tabs might
seat tight enough to require a mallet to install but a few bumps or rumble
strips could shake it back off.  (kinda like a stuck bolt will not budge
under steady torque but an impact wrench will zip it right off)  It's
probably a long shot though.  Maybe you could try bending the tabs out a
little bit so they would grip tighter, being careful not to break them.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 02:23:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable


> 4) The code on my transmission tag is 65-OA-1001, but my service manual
says
> only "2bbl high compression" for this number. From some sources
(catalogs,
> etc.) I am given the impression (but nothing explicit) that all full size
> Oldsmobiles in 1965 were equipped with the TH400. Would someone make a
> difinitive comment on whether I have TH400 or not?

You do ... the only full size model not to have the TH400 by default was
the Jetstar 88 (35200 series) which either had the standard tranny or the
Jetaway automatic.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:34:32 -0300
Subject: Re: I need help identifying a 455 block.

OL>>I didn't receive the original post. The block should have some kind of
OL>>casting number, not necessarily the correct casting number for the car.
OL>>The only way to have the correct id number would be if the person
OL>>replacing the block stamped the number into the block.Isn't the id
OL>>number part of the cars vin number? Isn't the casting number for telling
OL>>when the block was made the displacement and it's intended use?
OL>>
OL>>Daren
OL>>
OL>>O.C.A. ª23571
OL>>daren@qconline.com
OL>>
OL>The casting number is more akin to the blocks part number than anything to
OL>do with a serial number, engine or VIN.  When the patterns for the casting
OL>are made they include the digits of the casting number so that when the
OL>block is poured these numbers will appear.  Occasionally the casting number
OL>will actually be the 'part's book' part number.

OL>It is done to identify the pattern from which the casting is made, and
hence OL>it also identifies the casting.

OL>The Wiz

Just like I said. If the blocks casting number is 231788  L ('75-'76
455) it would not be the correct casting number for a '70 car that came
with a 455. From what I've read they started to put part of the cars vin
number on the block on the assembly line in the late 60s. So that the
smog inspectors could tell if the car had the original engine. Two
differant numbers.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 01:40:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo ca

OL>
OL>> 4) The code on my transmission tag is 65-OA-1001, but my service manual
OL>says
OL>> only "2bbl high compression" for this number. From some sources
OL>(catalogs,
OL>> etc.) I am given the impression (but nothing explicit) that all full size
OL>> Oldsmobiles in 1965 were equipped with the TH400. Would someone make a
OL>> difinitive comment on whether I have TH400 or not?

OL>You do ... the only full size model not to have the TH400 by default was
OL>the Jetstar 88 (35200 series) which either had the standard tranny or the
OL>Jetaway automatic.

OL>Graham Stewart
OL>Toronto, Canada
OL>graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

I forgot about the Jetstar. They also had 330s. A Jetstar exclusive(?).

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 02:39:49 -0300
Subject: Re: RTV/425s/P.B.

At 11:46 PM 4/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>OL>The block without main bearing caps is best reguarded as boat anchor
>OL>material.  When the block was constructed the main bearing caps were bored
[snip]
>mains to get out of alignment. More than likely it will be cheaper (not
>much) to get another short block (455 no replacement for displacement)
>but I would not get rid of your 425 block. Who knows 10-20 years from
>now it could be worth a lot more than it is now.
>
>Considering that 425s have not been installed in an Olds car for almost
>30 years now I would consider them to be on the endangered species list.
>If you have any endangered species you want to "junk" post it on the
>list I'm sure somebody here wouldn't mined having one!

Actually, I'm one of those "bottom-feeders" who stockpiles parts for
buildups years down the road (which is why I've got sitting around an
assembled 350 shortblock and a disassembled 403, both in need of rebuilding,
though I have nothing to put them into); this 425 was simply my latest
acquisition of "parts-motors", and I'd like to gather the parts for a
rebuild now, while they're merely vintage (as opposed to archaic...), even
though I won't be rebuilding it for a while.

I do realize that I could put a 455 crank kit in there and have lots of
extra cubes; I just didn't know if anyone had a set of BB main caps from the
400 or 455 that they split down the middle, or something like that. Come to
think of it, did Olds come out with a main cap service kit for their diesel
engines? They had the big-block bottom end on them, so a set of those would
probably work. Too bad the main caps *were* the problem on those early
diesels...

I already have a good 455 block for my SX rebuild; the 425 would be
interesting due to the larger lifters (it's a 39' Toro block whose
bottom-end was scavenged for its crank and pan), but unless I split my 455's
block, I'll just hang on to the 425 block (no boat anchor for me!).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "H. Karamanos" <hikara@u.washington.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 02:49:31 -0300
Subject: V.C./442

As I have found a 65 V.C. plane jane model, no frills, needs a rear
window, but otherwise a very clean and rust free car.

 I would like to get rid of my ª's matching, sat outside all it's life in
the great green(re:  wet) NW, rusty, 400-4 speed-3.42 antispin, complete,
69 442.  Approx 80k on 442. Tahitian turquoise, Black bucket seats,
console, drive it home.  $2200.  As the body is not in the best of shape,
but the drivetrain works exceptional, and if you dont buy it, I will pull
the running gear and send it to the crusher.

 I am looking for a rear window for a 65 VC tailgate.  Maybe located in WA
state or northern OR.  Also any add on trinkets that you might want to get
rid of that would have come on a VC when delivered.  Rear window air
deflector, roof rack.

Please reply to hikara@u.washington.edu and i will get back to you slowly
but surely
    47rocket98  jack

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 02:43:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Diff oiling and codes (=questions) + speedo cable

At 01:23 AM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
> 4) The code on my transmission tag is 65-OA-1001, but my service manual says
> only "2bbl high compression" for this number. From some sources (catalogs,
> etc.) I am given the impression (but nothing explicit) that all full size
> Oldsmobiles in 1965 were equipped with the TH400. Would someone make a
> difinitive comment on whether I have TH400 or not?

Yes, you would have a TH400, with a switch-pitch converter, if I'm not
mistaken. The 65-OA-1001 is simply the version of the TH400 (an "OA" tranny;
the "65" is the year of the car) that went with the 2bbl high compression
425. A 330-equipped Jetstar 88 would not have the TH400, I would imagine.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 02:49:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Valvetrain noise

At 11:51 AM 4/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>            Hi all,
>Well i've got good news &bad, 1st. the good
>the 455 i
>purhased about a month or so ago does have a forged crank &rods i

Is that the crank original to the engine? Of course, the next question we
all want to know the answer to is "what was the engine originally in?"

How'd you confirm the forged crank? BTW, all modern Olds rods are forged.

>don't have all those fine measuring tools .  2nd. Bad news:  i've been
>experiencing valve train noise, i thought it was a bad lifter or a weak

How many miles on the valvetrain? Is it a performance cam? Many are reground
on smaller base-circles, so you need longer pushrods; without them, the
valves will clatter. It could just be worn rocker arms or pedestals, causing
extra clearance.

>spring but i had a friend who is a local mechanic look at it with me. He
>hooked-up a vacuum gauge to it &even when i'am just trying to crank it
>over,  the needle on the gauge is bouncing; which in turn indicates that I
>have a vacuum leak.  I did a compression check on the engine, and all came

??? It's bouncing on an engine that's cranking??? That's a normal
fluctuation, as the slowly-opening valves of the individual cylinders are
causing the vacuum in the manifold to vary as they open and close. When the
engine is running, the pressure in the plenum apparently remains more or
less constant, not because there is no fluctuation, but rather because the
fluctuation in one cylinder is overlapped by the fluctuation in the other
cylinders.

>up to 190 psi.
>But, the ª2 cylinder was slow to build up.  i haven't done a leak-down test
>yet.  i'm suspecting it's a valve seat.

Does squirting oil in the cylinder help that condition at all? If it does,
it's rings; if not, it's the valve.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 04:07:12 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass SX Build Sheet

At 01:40 AM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>On the subject of build sheets, where is the serial ª recorded?
>
>                                        Daniel Hall
>                                        cdhall@MCI2000.com
>
>
>
Dan

        The serial number should be in the upper right hand side. You will
only see the sequiencial number for the car. The body number box to the left
of it will read 342570? (whichever plant the car came from) mine is G. In
the upper part of my build sheet not all the boxes are full. They just have
two dots in them. Are yours like that? Also the ENG. box should have a TW
(without A/C) or a TV (with A/C).

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 04:10:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Motion Hurst, OCF show

At 01:24 AM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>For those who attended the Olds Club of Florida car show on Sat. (
>4/26/97), you
>would have seen that 68 Hurst (Commotion by Motion) there. Parked next to my
>'84 Hurst, my windows are still rattling from that open exhaust so loudly
>displayed when trailered at the end of the show, but wonderful to hear. The
>car was also at our first annual show in March of '96. I don't know who the
>owner is.


The owner is Bob Anderson of Tampa Florida.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 04:45:44 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442, 66-69 Toronado parts for
sale.

**** New stuff to list****
69 Long Stroke 400 cu in engine 325 hp (from automatic car, complete)  $400.00
68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
70 442/SX Rear Bumper Core  $110.00
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00
66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea
66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea
66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00
68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00
68 Toronado Air Cleaner Pie Tin  $5.00
66-68 Toronado Trailer Hitch Assm.  $20.00
66 Cutlass Grille (nice used)  $40.00
71-75 N.O.S. Cutlass Fender Emblems  $19.50 ea
70-72 N.O.S. LH Fenders  $400.00 ea
N.O.S. SSI Center Caps  $40.00 ea
N.O.S. SSII/III Center Caps  $40.00 ea
71-72 N.O.S. Stone Shields  $50.00 ea
71-72 N.O.S. Headlight Housings (plastic)  $100.00 pr
71-72 N.O.S. Cutlass Rear Bumpers  $400.00 ea
72 N.O.S. 442 RH Grille  $300.00
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
70  12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $25.00ea

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $5.00
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $55.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
66-69 14x6 SSI Wheels (All chrome) non disc brakes  $40.00 ea
Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $25.00
66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $15.00
66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
$15.00 each
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $40.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $20.00
68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $20.00
68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $45.00
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
Headlight Plastic   $100.00 pr
Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
Rear Bumper Core    $50.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $60.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
69 442 Rear bumper (Nice)   $140.00
69 442 Grilles (very good)  $160.00 pr
Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue   $10.00
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 RH Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $25.00 ea
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $30.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $15.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $15.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $30.00 ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $20.00 ea
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
Dash Pads (A/C car, black)   $100.00 ea
(5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00

Misc: 65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $30.00 pr
1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire
console shift lens. Beautiful reproduction. $35.00 plus $3.00 shipping.  We
are getting ready to tool up for the 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate shift lens for
reproduction soon.

Jim Chermack
'70 SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 04:59:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Flying Hubcaps (non-Olds)

At 04:13 PM 4/27/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>> Today I didn't go more than a couple of miles when it flew off again.

Could try the ~bigtime~ racer trick:  Get those big self-tapping screws that
thread into the bead of alum. rims, the ones that keep your slicks from
slipping.  Just run 'em through the outside of the caps :)  Might have to
paint a big white line across the sidewall, though, just for the ~true~
racer image.  Is this a front tire?  Put the caps on the Toro, then...
What's that?  You ~don't~ have slicks on it?  I think Dustin might have a
solution for ~that~ problem :)


>>DUCT TAPE, DUCT TAPE, DUCT TAPE    surprised you havent tried it yet :)
     Dustin

Wrap it inside out for ~extra sticky~ style....

Oh ~god~ it's late :o


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Robert G. Ahrens" <AlphaSig@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 08:30:19 -0300
Subject: Olds center caps

I was down at the Englistown Swap Meet yesterday looking for some Olds
parts (BTW... few and far between) and I came across a guy selling center
caps for the Olds late model wheels (ie late seventies - eighties caps,
non-bolt on). Anyway, theses caps were plastic, not the OEM steel version.
It seems that the plastic versions hold up better than the steel, as far as
the look of the chrome.

Does anyone out there know who manufactured these plastic centercaps? Did
GM begin production of these after they stopped the RWD Olds line? Or does
someone like Year One, etc supply them? I would really like to get a set to
freshen up the look of my Cutlass.

Bob
1987 Cutlass Supreme with a 1969 worked 350.

------------------------------

From: Denney J Keys <Denney.J.Keys.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 09:29:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Defending NASA's newest flame (Mostly Non Olds)

Thanks to all for coming to my rescue, and yes, Charley is right the
majority of my time spent either reviewing or responding is done early in
the morning before the onslaught begins, or lunchtime.  And yes, I have dial
up capability from home as well.

Most of the messages received get deleted before I even read them as they do
not pertain to any of my vehicles.

I was not even going to formally respond to that post, as I felt most folks
on the list would realize the pettiness in the response.  But thanks anyway!

Denney

>At the risk of wasting bandwidth, I have to add my "me too" to this.
>There's many things we don't know about the post in question, and Mr. Keys
>business life is none of our business, especially if he doesn't want to make
>it ours.  Perhaps NASA, like many other competitive business firms these
>days actually takes steps to ensure employee satisfaction, and gives each
>member internet access.  Perhaps this perk has another purpose, to be able
>to reach employees quicker than by phone, and communicate more affectively.
>He could have been sending from home.  I have an *.edu address, but I'm not
>in class right now.  It's midnight.  Our server allows dial-up access.
>Perhaps NASA offers that too?  I know it's relatively new technology, God
>forbid our ~space~ program would have something like ~that~!  :)  Maybe he
>~is~ reading his mail at work (I seem to recall many list members have done
>that occasionally, and I think some had to go to digest, cuz they weren't
>getting work done :( ...) I don't think that's any problem we need to be
>concerned with, though.  I'm sure NASA offers coffee breaks occasionally,
>would it be unethical to check mail in those 15 minutes?  I really doubt it.
>How about a lunch hour?  Plenty of time to answer several posts.  Trust me,
>it ~is~ possible to eat and type at the same time.  ~And~ possible to do so
>without getting crumbs on the keyboard!  As for the Olds content...

>
>             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
>             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
>                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 10:07:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds center caps

Robert G. Ahrens wrote:
>
> I was down at the Englistown Swap Meet yesterday looking for some Olds
> parts (BTW... few and far between) and I came across a guy selling center
> caps for the Olds late model wheels (ie late seventies - eighties caps,
> non-bolt on). Anyway, theses caps were plastic, not the OEM steel version.
> It seems that the plastic versions hold up better than the steel, as far as
> the look of the chrome.
>
> Does anyone out there know who manufactured these plastic centercaps? Did
> GM begin production of these after they stopped the RWD Olds line? Or does
> someone like Year One, etc supply them? I would really like to get a set to
> freshen up the look of my Cutlass.
>
> Bob
> 1987 Cutlass Supreme with a 1969 worked 350.

- -----------------------
I do believe those plastic center caps are availabile from GM parts.
It's like any other thing they do "plastic is cheaper". Did you also see
the vendor selling the "442" center cap decals ? Anyone who has an 80's
442 should have bought a set, it's a deal @ $15.00 a set !

- --

Bill !
- ------                                        _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

     Visit http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/14/97)

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 10:07:11 -0300
Subject: 1960 Super 88 (?) for sale

Yesterday I was out tooling aroung Wichita (rather than watching the NASCAR
race from Talladega) and on a very small car lot spotted what I thought was
an old Olds (Forgive me I'm not up on these late fifties/early sixites Olds
mainly since I wasn't born yet).  So I turned around and went back to look.
 I couldn't get very close, chain link fence was in the way, here's what I
can tell you.  It's a red 1960 Oldsmobile 4-door and I believe the emblems on
the rear quarters said Super 88.  It looks to be a complete, possibly
original car.  I would say it has been there for some time by the grass
growing around it.  Anyway, the phone number for the dealership if anyone is
interested is (316) 262-6390.

Cecil
1991 W-41
notdads442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: mazzullo <mazzullo@twsuvm.uc.twsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 10:38:22 -0300
Subject: Message-Id: <97Apr28.103823adt.37037(2)@chebucto.ns.ca>

For Sale - 1956 Olds Rocket 98 Holiday edition, new paint job (original
colors), very little rust on body, ~35000 original miles. Needs a fluid
coupler for the transmission, original leather seats need some repair, and
factory AC needs repair. Will consider best offer. Located in Wichita, KS. Ir
runs quietly and smooth, and is a beauty.

Respond to mazzullo@twsuvm.uc.twsu.eduDr. S.J. Mazzullo
Department of Geology
Wichita State University
Wichita, Kansas 67260
Phone: 316-978-3140
FAX: 316-978-3431

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 10:43:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

From: Michael Baugher on 04/28/97 08:43 AM

Year:          1969
> Make:        Oldsmobile
> Model:  cutlass
> Style:       350
> Description:      Looking for sun visors, light blue, both sides
>                         also: Right Front Brake Drum

You may already know this, but the Oldsmobile U.S.A. catalog that arrived
here today has these items. The sunvisors are available in light blue at
$72.50 a pair (part ªA10.203F) and front brake drums (part ªA5.809A) are
$72.05 each. Their phone ª is 800-872-2013.

I've never ordered anything from these guys but their catalog is among
the most comprehensive I've seen.



***Western Auto Parts Store has the front drums for $45 each.

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 11:16:02 -0300
Subject: 455 frame mounts for 71 cutlass

Where do I find 455 frame mounts for a 71 cutlass (convertible).  I am
replacing the 350 with a 455, and I bought engine mounts, and I think I
need the corresponding frame pads.  I haven't seen frame mounts in any
catalogs.

Thanks
Dave
dedarnell@electro-matic.com

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:23:07 -0300
Subject: transmition swap

Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
repair. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: "Tony Williams" <remaxrealtor1@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 11:37:49 -0300
Subject: 75 hurst/olds

I own a 75, 455 hurst/olds. I have it at about 85% complete. One of the
biggest obstacles seems to be the weatherstripping of T-tops. Any ideas?

Tony Williams
remaxrealtor1@msn.com
770-926-2627

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 11:51:28 -0300
Subject: 84 H/O factory front plate !

FOR SALE / TRADE: The original GM front plate that came on the 84
Hurst/Olds (ª22525040), it's silver with red & black letters. I'm
looking for the same plate but for the 83 H/O 15th anniversary edition,
for purchase or trade. The 84 plate is still in the factory
package.....never opened, MINT !

e-mail back to 3STICKS@stjohns.edu !

- --

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

     Visit http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/14/97)

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 11:51:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Question:'67 to '65 axle swap

  I've got a '67 442 whose q-panels are the result of bondo and sweat and
time.  So is a fair amount of the rest of the car.  I also have a '65 442
that is all sheetmetal and in great shape(AZ car).  The '67 has a 3:55 posi
with fresh wheel bearings and brake system while the '65 has a 3:23 at best
and is an open end.  The '67 rear is out of a '66 F85 parts car and swapped
right in.  I can't compare the cars back to back for various reasons and
want to know if a '66-'67 rear and a '65 will swap without a hitch(as in the
coil spring and shock mounts are the same).  I plan on selling the '67 soon
and don't want to let the rear go with it.  If anyone knows if they are the
same or different, please let me know.

  Thanks.

  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª635
********************************
