To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #696


oldsmobile-digest          Wednesday, 28 May 1997       Volume 01 : Number 696

Re: Valve Rotators.
Re: Some Questions
Interior body work ('65 98)
Spotterd a '76 or '77 442 - is it yours?
Re: Some Questions
Re: Olds Chat Link URL
Re: Holes in my dash!
Re: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!
425 bump-stick
Electric Seat Question
Oil System Mods. (was: Mondello sucks)
Chuck's Chat (ªrockettalk)
425 bump-stick
I.D. Numbers Please
Answer to: Today I'm Broken???
Re: I.D. Numbers Please
RE:big block doesn't fit
I need information on oldsmobile 70 cutlass w-31!
Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)
Re: Olds Chat Link URL
Re: big block doesn't fit
Re: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!
Re: big block doesn't fit
Re: 350 Buildup?
Re: I.D. Numbers Please
Re: Olds Chat Link URL
Dallas Car Shows
Re: WIRING PROBLEMS
Re: Interior body work ('65 98)
Re: Indy Olds stuf
Re: Some Questions
Re: LD Title Transfers?
Re: 350 Buildup?
Re: Some Questions
Re[2]: W-30 Detailing Question...
need rear bumper 65   98
The Carburetor Works
Re: Interior body work ('65 98)
Re: Holes in my dash!
Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)
Re: Chris B. Witt
Re: Sport Mirror Question
Re: Holes in my dash!
Re: Olds Chat Link URL
Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)
ROCKIT TALK
Re: radio speaker 4x10's
Ertl model 69 442
Re: radio speaker 4x10's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 18:56:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Valve Rotators.

At 04:18 PM 5/27/97 -0300, Michael Ciraolo wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Does anyone know what valve rotators look like?  I have a set of Ka heads
for my 74 olds 455 big bock in my boat.  I had the heads reworked and the
valve spring tops look to small for the valve springs (heavy duty springs,
they have a inner spring).  Anyway, did they use the wrong ones?

This is what I make everyday at the TRW Rotator Assembly Plant in Mogadore,
Ohio. Needless to say I hate them ;-) I got lots of info, literature,
blueprints, specs, etc, on rotators. What do you want to know? The rotator
consists of a body, spring, washer, and collar. Sometimes they are also
assembled with rings, lockrings, ball bearings and double washers. All
depends on type and customer.

Jason "who now assmebles rotators with a masters degree" Labay
........something wrong with that ain't it folks......I need a real job ;-)
93 Z/28....next best thing to a modern day 442
80 Olds 442 W-30... free of Mondello parts so it doesn't suck ;-)
75 H/O W-25....it just wishes it was a complete car again
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........13.402 @ 102.31 on the old engine, new times ?
80 Olds 442 W-30........show car that is slow as hell...but looks fast
75 Hurst/Olds W-25....looks like the resto will get done this year!

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 19:07:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>

At 06:38 PM 5/26/97 -0400, you wrote:

>>What are the times
>>for a W-25 '70 442 4-speed 455ci.(Example:1/4 mile 13.4sec @ 101mph.
>>0-60 in 5.5sec.)

>Well, not quite that good, but around 14.5/98mph, and 0-60 in about 6.2
>seconds seems to stick in my mind. Of course, most road-tests were done =
on
>the W-30 cars, which turned 13.9-14.2 quarters for the road-testers back
then.

Look in the archives for my track times from last summer (or just pester =
me
to look the time slips again :-).

Seems like I was running 14.3 @ 98.xx after my 5th run.  I had never ran
at a track before so I basically didnt know what I was doing.

This was stock 1970 442 M-21, 3.42 posi, and a OAI setup.

Hold on....   Looks like your in luck, I had the file on my computer stil=
l.
Here's my time slips from last year for your amusment...

- ---------

PASS   =A61      =A62      =A63      =A64      =A65      =A66

Reaction: .706    1.001   .543    .458    .551    .584
I1:  2.908   2.758   2.558   2.640   2.520   2.298
I2:  .000    6.819   7.037   6.647   6.495   6.194
I3:  10.488  10.181  10.736  9.960   9.749   9.376
MPH (I3): 71.683  74.602  68.115  74.897  76.756  78.284
I4:  .000    13.084  13.855  12.822  12.539  .000
ET:  16.569  15.752  16.385  15.175  14.855  14.378
MPH:  71.119  80.076  87.343  96.215  97.581  98.973

Notes:

Pass=A61: Decided to take it easy.  Drove around the burnout box.
 Didnt have the revs up when I dumped the clutch and kinda
 lurched out of the hole.  Lined up against a white mid 80's
 mustang, who won (15.470 @ 88.897mph)

Pass=A62: Poor attempt at a burnout. (here on out I did a burnout first)
 Reaction time shows I was asleep at the switch.  Lined up
 against a 'orange '70 chevelle, tubbed, slicks, etc. He
 won (12.376 @ 106.185mph)

Pass=A63: Better burnout.  Missed a shift into second (ouch!)
 Picked up a passenger to help debug why my mph is so slow.
 He informs me that I'm coasting across the line.  Oh,
 so thats where the 1/4 mile ends.  Duh!  Lined up against
 a '72 primered Monte Carlo, who won (15.720 @ 86.585mph)

Pass=A64: Still have passenger.  Burnouts getting better, but street
 tires aint cutting it.  At least I'm getting all the water
 off the tires.  Too agressive off line and red light, however
 the results are encouraging (amazing what happens when you
 keep on the gas :-).  Line up against same orange chevelle,
 who wins again (12.410 @ 106.344mph (pretty consistent too)).

Pass=A65  Now giving rides to other friends.  Cut a better light and shif=
t
 quicker.  Previous friend had suggested staying in 3rd longer
 so I do.  Seems to help.  I line up against friends '94
 mustang GT 6 speed.  I win (!)  He claims he missed 3rd gear
 (16.412 @ 70.781mph)

Pass=A66  Kick out all my friends, but still have tools, spare tire, etc.
 Improve shift speed again.  Wind it out in 2nd and 3rd better.
 Lined up against same friend w/ mustang.  I win (again!) as
 he gets a 15.697 @ 91.200mph.

At this point I called it a day.  By stripping more weight and working
on my driving, I probably could have made it over a 100mph and if
lucky, into the 13's.  Not bad for a stock car and novice driver.
Now I need to find that ET -> HP calculator on the web...

- --------

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:32:45 -0300
Subject: Interior body work ('65 98)

Hi all...

I removed the rear couch, I mean seat, from the Great White Shark.

You know the chrome trim on the front side of the rear window (2 dr. pwr.
windows)? You know how when they start to come loose from the window after
30+ yrs ? Ever try to tell your sister-in-law to quit playing with the
window ? Well, it fell INTO the body panels (I guess I should be happy that
it is not on some highway being abused by the tires of lesser vehicles)! To
get it out, I had to remove the rear seat, take off the interior panels,
and thank my genetic stock for long arms.

So I find that there is some rust on the floor and bottom of the seat. I
also find that the insulation is pretty well shot. These were obviously
replaced at one time (probably within the last 10 years). I am going to
clean up this mess with a wire cup brush and a drill. Once prepped:

1) Anything better to use that Rustoleum on the metal parts???

2) What to use for insulation (floor, in back of rear seat, and beneath
interior trim panels on the doors)? Summit lists Dynamic Control's Dynamat.
Is this worth the $$$ ?

3) Planning on finishing up with 3 seat belts for the rear (None came in
the rear). Anybody have a good idea on where to mount them on the body?
Anybody like to FAX/Email me (NOT THE LIST!!!) a picture of a late model
setup?

4) There is a grill in the middle top of the rear seat-back that can be
used to mount a speaker. Any ideas? "Looks" like a 6X9 might fit?

Now that I am writing this, I neglected to get a good look at the rear
deck. Sooo... I'll probably have a few more questions this week.

Later...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 19:43:28 -0300
Subject: Spotterd a '76 or '77 442 - is it yours?

I passed a '76 or '77 silver 442 today around 5:20 on Route 7 in VA.  It
was heading East and I was heading West.  Just wondered if the owner is
on this list.
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:01:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

At 07:07 PM 5/27/97 -0300, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:

>>Well, not quite that good, but around 14.5/98mph, and 0-60 in about 6.2
>>seconds seems to stick in my mind. Of course, most road-tests were done on
>>the W-30 cars, which turned 13.9-14.2 quarters for the road-testers back
>then.
>
>Look in the archives for my track times from last summer (or just pester me
>to look the time slips again :-).
>
>Seems like I was running 14.3 @ 98.xx after my 5th run.  I had never ran
>at a track before so I basically didnt know what I was doing.
>
>This was stock 1970 442 M-21, 3.42 posi, and a OAI setup.
>
>Hold on....   Looks like your in luck, I had the file on my computer still.
>Here's my time slips from last year for your amusment...
>
>---------
>
>PASS   =A61      =A62      =A63      =A64      =A65      =A66
>
>Reaction: .706    1.001   .543    .458    .551    .584
>I1:  2.908   2.758   2.558   2.640   2.520   2.298
>I2:  .000    6.819   7.037   6.647   6.495   6.194
>I3:  10.488  10.181  10.736  9.960   9.749   9.376
>MPH (I3): 71.683  74.602  68.115  74.897  76.756  78.284
>I4:  .000    13.084  13.855  12.822  12.539  .000
>ET:  16.569  15.752  16.385  15.175  14.855  14.378
>MPH:  71.119  80.076  87.343  96.215  97.581  98.973

I was curious what cars like this ran. Thanks for posting these numbers. Now
can someone help me understand this. This is not an attempt to bash anyones
car, year of car, etc so don't y'all get all worked in a frenzy and tell me
how your car can kick the crap out of mine because it probably can and I
really don't care.  I just need educated. How can my 93 Z/28...(ignore my
e.t. in my sig as that is with a non-stock engine) with a SB Chevy 350,
275hp, 325 torque, 3600lbs, 3.23 posi-rear, 700R-4 automatic tranny run bone
stock times in the 13.8 to 14.1 range at 97-99mph....run faster or nearly
the same as a bone stock 70 442 with a 455? Isn't the 70 442 about ~3800lbs?
Maybe 60ft times can explain it? I am getting 1.9x to 2.1x times on street
tires.=20
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........13.402 @ 102.31 on the old engine, new times ?=20
80 Olds 442 W-30........show car that is slow as hell...but looks fast
75 Hurst/Olds W-25....looks like the resto will get done this year!=20

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:05:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Chat Link URL

> I agree that the IRC has less delays than the web based chat, and more
> options also.  The Olds IRC channel used to be Tue and Wen from 7pm -
> ?.  However, with the advent of spring, most people were to busy to show
> up at 7pm.  The channel still exists and is still available for use.
> I'd be intersted in picking a later time to hold a weekly chat.  How
> about Thur at 8:30 Central?

That works for me; also, everyone should keep in mind that if nobody
enters the channel for 25-30 days, it's unregistered and purged.  I drop
by occasionally to keep it active, but it sure is lonely in there!!
Anyone else for some time suggestions??

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 10:20:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Holes in my dash!

>Hi All.
>The previous owner of my 69 Cutlass cut 3-4 inch round holes in the metal
>portion of my lower dashboard in
>order to install speakers.

Gawd, there's nothing worse than that.  I hate to see an otherwise perfect
dash mutilated like that.  The one in my `67 cutlass is cracked and busted
where some previous owner evidently removed his aftermarket tape deck.  He
musta used a hammer.  Anywayz, on to more useful data. :)

>I need some suggestions on a good way to cover
>the holes
>in hopes that it will appear original again.  I doubt I'll go to the
>extreme of pulling the entire
>dash soon, so any recommendations that won't require extreme, wire and
>plastic melting heat
>(such as welding) will be greatly appreciated.

Well if welding's out the only other thing I could think of is fiberglass
mat.  It's in the automobile section of most wal-mart type department
stores.  It comes as a 4x4 piece of cloth that you cut to shape, coat with
resin (sold seperately by the can) and place over the hole.  You can smooth
out the imperfections with some good 'ol bondo.  Then of course you have to
paint it.  I understand that fiberglass mat is the same stuff that
fiberglass body panels are made of so it should last awhile.  The only
problem is the mat would probably work best if you applied it from the
backside of the hole, so you might end up having to take the dash out anyway
depending on how accesible the hole is.

If you use it, be sure to cover everything nearby with newspaper.  The resin
will stick to anything and is generally pretty nasty.  The only thing I've
found that will sucesfully remove it is laquer thinner.


Good luck.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:48:41 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!

>My car threw a a/c
>belt last night which took off the other belts. I recommend carrying
>spare belts and tools to change them. At 1 am thats what got me home.
>
>I will replace the belts, and take another look at the a/c system. I may
>have to replace the expansion tube after all.
>
>dennis

I checked out that R406A page last night.  They'd mentioned something about
the R12/R406A... and the R134A's oils being completely incompatible.  If
mixed, they break down, and compressor failure is usually rapidly eminant.
I ~hope~ that's not what you've encounterred.  If a compressor siezes up,
you'll smoke the belt in a hurry, which would eventually throw the belt
somewhere else, and likely take the rest off with it.  Starting to sound
familiar?  :(  A friend lost the compressor on his '68 Newport.  I'd just
given his car a tune up, so he took it on a road trip to see how it would
go.  The compressor gave out at about 115 mph, he said.  He heard two
~really~ loud cracks (both belts smacking the hood) and pulled over.  The
smoke from the belt left enough of a cloud to block traffic in both
directions for about ten minutes!!!  The compressor had thrown both rods (I
made one of em into a keychain...  Kinda cool...)  Anyway, check to see if
the compressor will turn now.  I'll keep my fingers crossed.  If it's
lunched, find a different one, clean out the system (get all the chunks out
of circulation...  Can't remember what all this requires, I seem to recall
it's not pleasant, though)  I think you'll need to get the expansion valve
out of there, just for cleaning, but I can't remember for sure.  I'd go
with the R406A, it looks like a decent product, and likely to be much
cheaper than R12, and much more effective than R134.  This stuff uses the
same mineral oil as R12, so you won't have that worry.  I'd imagine a used
compressor would suffice just fine.  Definately want to change the
filter/drier just prior to filling the system.  I see that R406A is charged
in as a liquid on the low side.  Have to be ~really~ careful with ~that~
procedure...  Anyway, good luck.  Keep us posted as events progress...  :)



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:59:59 -0300
Subject: 425 bump-stick

Previously, the Mechinator scrawled;

> Sure can, but why does this cam even work if my lifter angle is
>  oddball? Would it cause vavletrain noise other than the rockers? The
>  specs are:
>
>  Duration @ .006" lift        intake 288   exhaust  298
>  Duration @ .005" lift        intake 214   exhaust  224
>
>  Lift @ Cam:  Intake .295"  Exhaust  .310"
>  Lift @ Valve:  Intake .472"   Exhaust  .496"
>
>  Timing at 0.50 lift
>
>                      Open           Close
>  Intake:         0 ATDC         34 ABDC
>
>  Exhaust:       49 BBDC         5 BTDC
>
>  Lobe Separation Angle : 112
>  Intake Centerline           107
>
>  Those are my specs, and if I actually do have a '65 425, thats new to
>  me! I have the 386525A block, but my records cay it could be 65-67,
>  thats probably just an error though, thanks for the info and let me
>  know what you think!  The cam is in the car now and has been running
>  fine for 800 miles. :)
>
Compared with....

part ª     overlap     intake        exhaust

387484      52       278/282     .430/.432     400ci, 330 4bbl,st   425 exc.
starfire

which Daren assures me is the stock grind, those numbers are not too bad.

Unfortunately, I lost the part ª for this (Edelbrock?) stick that you have.

As for why it works. I dunno.
I presume that a 45 degree V block will cause the passengers side valves to
open and close 3 degrees early and the drivers side 3 degrees late compared
to the normal 39 degree blocks. Or something vaguely like that. I am gonna go
to the Edelbrock site and see what this part number might be and why it might
work.

Can anyone break a nickel for 2 cents?

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Ergonomic Grip Rejected?

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:04:06 -0300
Subject: Electric Seat Question

OL>My 6 way front seat system is acting up a bit and I'm wondering if I can
cle OL>it to fix or need to replace the system that's in there.

OL>What's happening is inconsistent transmission of motion from the motor to
th OL>front (up/down) actuators. The motor is o.k. since the seat goes
back/forth OL>and the rear goes up&down too.

OL>Anybody got a fix?
OL>cf


I got a pair of power buckets out of a '75 Cutlass several years ago.
The drivers seat did the same going forward and backwards. It was the
gears that connect the motor and to the cables. A very simple thing to
fix and cost around $5-10.

Daren

O.C.A.ª 23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:08:46 -0300
Subject: Oil System Mods. (was: Mondello sucks)

OL>I liked this idea when I heard it first (from the list, of course!).  I
have OL>been thinking about how I will go about doing this when I get back
into my OL>350 in the next few weeks.  I'm debating on where to put the lines
in, how OL>many, and where to drain back into.  I'll start looking into the
block oilin OL>schematics before doing anything, and then make a decision.
I'd think OL>there's a good way of doing this that would possible deposit the
oil into a OL>useful place first (such as getting it back onto the crank, or
something), OL>then maybe into the pan.  Gotta do some looking at things, and
see where OL>everything can be run.

OL>That was a great suggestion though.

OL>Chris Ruper

I have an Olds in Action book from Olds that talks about doing this.
I'll take a look at it tonight and try to post in the next couple days
what it suggest to do.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:12:45 -0300
Subject: Chuck's Chat (ªrockettalk)

OK, it seems that the AOL for windows 95 (with the better graphics option)
can access Chuck Chat. But noone was home when I arrived. I will try again
later.

( cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/oldschat.htm )

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
ªRocketTalk
Chuck's World

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:35:17 -0300
Subject: 425 bump-stick

Great, Im gonna go to the Edelbrock site right now and ask.  As for
the part number it is a ª2152 cam, performer-plus cam.

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:33:30 -0300
Subject: I.D. Numbers Please

I'm Sure This Has Been Asked And Answered Many Times Over..

But I Was Gone From The Membership For Awhile(Recently Back) And
If Anyone Could I.D. These Numbers For Me It Would Be GREAT..

To Start(to the best of my knowledge) '71/'72 Bid Block 455
No Car For Vin Or So Forth JUST The Motor..

Heads "G"
Block (above waterpump)(you no where i mean) "396021F"
Oil Filler Tube "2556631"


And If There Are Other Places I Should Look For Particular Numbers
Let Me Know..

I Will Be The First To Admitt, I Don't Know What I Thought I Did

In The Process Of Building This Engine For STRIP Use Only In A 1981
Cutlass Supreme. Bare Bones Racing Only, So If There Is Something  Or
Someone Needing Anything From This Car, Let Me Know..

Thanks As Always..

JIM

Comments In Private To (o455@ix.netcom.com)

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:40:22 -0300
Subject: Answer to: Today I'm Broken???

On Mon, 26 May 1997 DJV442@AOL.COM wrote:

> this would not explain why the accelerator pump won't pump fuel but
otherwise > i would pull the ignition module from the HEI and have it
tested.this > happened to me once out of the clear blue.car was fine,stopped
at a > store,came out,car wouldn't start and this was the problem.it is
possible to > have spark and this be defective...hope this
helps...DJV442@AOL.COM

Yes, I was on to this plan, so I changed the coil, INSTANT fire-up!

Just a note, the old-car provided just as good of spark or better when we
tested it (by using an old plug on the manifold)

One for the log books.

My conclusion on this and other car stuff:

Electricity has NO rules, follows No rules, and generally lives to annoy
me (but nonetheless, I still use it, becuase it is needed, and it knows it!)

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:51:41 -0300
Subject: Re: I.D. Numbers Please

At 12:33 AM 5/28/97 -0300, Jim Fleeson wrote:
>I'm Sure This Has Been Asked And Answered Many Times Over..

>In The Process Of Building This Engine For STRIP Use Only In A 1981
>Cutlass Supreme. Bare Bones Racing Only, So If There Is Something  Or
>Someone Needing Anything From This Car, Let Me Know..

Hey Jim, sounds like a project similar to one I am thinking of doing in the
near future. I want to build an all out strip use only car and am going to
use a 1980 Cutlass Supreme with hardly any options (even has radio delete!).
For the engine I was going to build up a 72 Toro 455.  I am seriously
considering a built T-56 tranny to back this but don't know if I want to go
through all the hassle of converting the car to stick.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........13.402 @ 102.31 on the old engine, new times ?
80 Olds 442 W-30........show car that is slow as hell...but looks fast
75 Hurst/Olds W-25....looks like the resto will get done this year!

------------------------------

From: scott or sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 21:50:57 -0300
Subject: RE:big block doesn't fit

> I put the big block in the cutlass this weekend ('71 convertible).  I got
> the BB motor mounts and BB frame mounts.  The holes for the motor mounts
> are not lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame mounts.  The holes
> overlap just enough to stick the tip of a pencil in it.  Is this right?  If
> it is, how do I get the bolts through there?
>
> One more thing.  I have an edelbrock torker intake, and the A/C bracket
> doesn't mount right on.  The mounting hole is in a different spot on the
> intake.  Is there an easy fix.
>
> I am on the digest, so it will help if you e-mail me directly also.
> Thanks,
> Dave

Dave,

When I dropped the motor back in my 442 this spring I had problems with the
motor mounts too.  They were just a little bit off.  After messing with the
mounts for about an hour I finally just loosened the two bolts holding the
mount to the block, slipped the bolt through the frame mount and motor
mount, then tightened up the motor mount bolts.

Good luck,
Scott Jerdan
70 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:03:41 -0300
Subject: I need information on oldsmobile 70 cutlass w-31!

Somebody told us to put "subscribe" in this letter and said that you would
have have a ton of info on a 70 W-31! Get back to us on that!

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:01:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)

Mark Cornea (R) wrote:
>
> > >         The word "Rocket" on the air/cleaner decals was dropped in 1973,
> except
> > > for, (and I'm 99% sure) the '73, '74 and '75 H/O's were the ONLY ones
that > said > > > "Rocket" on them. > > > > >
(MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903 > > > >   Hey Mark, > >       Does
your 442 air cleaner have a 455 ROCKET decal on it? By the way did > > you
read that article on how to detail a 442 air cleaner in Car Craft > > mag. it
was the April '97 issue. If so my air cleaner flap door doesn't > > have a
short screw it has some weird thing in place of the screw does > > yours have
the weird thing that mine has?(no I am not talking about the > > hinge its the
thing above it) > > > >         RS > >       '70 442 4-speed > > > >-- End of
excerpt from Richard Staley > >         Richard, >                 There was
NO air cleaner decal on any 1970-'72 Ram-Air car. The > article in Car Craft
is WRONG. > >         The "weird thing" is a pin with a one way push on star
washer. > >                                                        ___  ___ >
/     /    / /  / >                                              / __  /  --/
/  / >        Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red > >
(MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903


  Mark,
    Does your air cleaner have a pin with aone way push on star washer?


 P.S.  the oil filler tube on my car is blue and does not have the two
letter I.D tag on it so I don't know if it is a ª's matching car. My car
is not a W-30 but a W-25, any info. would be appreciated on finding out
if my car has matching ª's?
  THANKS IN ADVANCE,
  RS
'70 442 4-speed W-25

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:27:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Chat Link URL

  I just signed on a Netcom account and can do the IRC thing now -- please
send the URL one more time cause id like to join in mebbe.

                                  thanks
                                                J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 20:05:22 -0300
Subject: Re: big block doesn't fit

scott or sharon wrote:
>
> > I put the big block in the cutlass this weekend ('71 convertible).  I got
> > the BB motor mounts and BB frame mounts.  The holes for the motor mounts
> > are not lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame mounts.  The holes
> > overlap just enough to stick the tip of a pencil in it.  Is this right?
If > > it is, how do I get the bolts through there? > > > > One more thing.  I
have an edelbrock torker intake, and the A/C bracket > > doesn't mount right
on.  The mounting hole is in a different spot on the > > intake.  Is there an
easy fix. > > > > I am on the digest, so it will help if you e-mail me
directly also. > > Thanks, > > Dave > > Dave, > > When I dropped the motor
back in my 442 this spring I had problems with the > motor mounts too.  They
were just a little bit off.  After messing with the > mounts for about an hour
I finally just loosened the two bolts holding the > mount to the block,
slipped the bolt through the frame mount and motor > mount, then tightened up
the motor mount bolts. > > Good luck, > Scott Jerdan > 70 442 W-30

This problem seems to be caused by frame sagging. Believe it or not
these cars were not designed to hold 455s(as evidenced by the spark plug
next to the a/c box). After 30 or so years of holding up the engine
weight the frame will sag just a bit.

Danny

------------------------------

From: sytsma@gzinc.com (Sytsma, Dennis)
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 22:58:37 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C repair Scam's buyer beware!

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> >My car threw a a/c
> >belt last night which took off the other belts. I recommend carrying
> >spare belts and tools to change them. At 1 am thats what got me home.
> >
> >I will replace the belts, and take another look at the a/c system. I may
> >have to replace the expansion tube after all.
> >
> >dennis
>
> I checked out that R406A page last night.  They'd mentioned something about
> the R12/R406A... and the R134A's oils being completely incompatible.  If
> mixed, they break down, and compressor failure is usually rapidly eminant.
> I ~hope~ that's not what you've encounterred.  If a compressor siezes up,
> you'll smoke the belt in a hurry, which would eventually throw the belt
> somewhere else, and likely take the rest off with it.  Starting to sound
> familiar?  :(  A friend lost the compressor on his '68 Newport.  I'd just
> given his car a tune up, so he took it on a road trip to see how it would
> go.  The compressor gave out at about 115 mph, he said.  He heard two
> ~really~ loud cracks (both belts smacking the hood) and pulled over.  The
> smoke from the belt left enough of a cloud to block traffic in both
> directions for about ten minutes!!!  The compressor had thrown both rods (I
> made one of em into a keychain...  Kinda cool...)  Anyway, check to see if
> the compressor will turn now.  I'll keep my fingers crossed.  If it's
> lunched, find a different one, clean out the system (get all the chunks out
> of circulation...  Can't remember what all this requires, I seem to recall
> it's not pleasant, though)  I think you'll need to get the expansion valve
> out of there, just for cleaning, but I can't remember for sure.  I'd go
> with the R406A, it looks like a decent product, and likely to be much
> cheaper than R12, and much more effective than R134.  This stuff uses the
> same mineral oil as R12, so you won't have that worry.  I'd imagine a used
> compressor would suffice just fine.  Definately want to change the
> filter/drier just prior to filling the system.  I see that R406A is charged
> in as a liquid on the low side.  Have to be ~really~ careful with ~that~
> procedure...  Anyway, good luck.  Keep us posted as events progress...  :)
>
>
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>              500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>              Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              "FAST FWD" (Soon)     | '67 Toronado 425
>                      Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
Hi Charley;

as always, a delight to hear from you.  I replaced the belts today and
put a gaudge on this system to check for overcharge or blocked expansion
valve.  I found system was normal except for higher than normal readings
on both high and low sides due to overcharge.  The compresser sticker
said system needs 4 pounds. I put in all 4 pound in the recharge.

My brother a experianced profession mechcanic and race car crew cheif
said I ran it with a loose A/C belt until it smoked the belt. I admit
the belt was loose and I neglected to tighten it.

The instructions on the "do it yourself kit" said to only charge R134a
to 80% of R-12 normal charge. When my brother and I vented some, normal
readings and operation resumed.  I have been warned about the oil
needing to be drained by many people. I wish I knew that when I had to
compresser off for other engine work.

The do it yourself kit said they have a special NEP oil and injecter
that does away with the need for draining the old oil and opening the
system. The manufactur of the kit is "Quest" of EF products Inc Dallas
TX 75234 Patentª 5,070,917.

If it works as they claim great! If it fails, woe is me!  I write as a
hobby for the Oldsmobile club of Florida, so win or lose, I have
manterial for another article if they care to print it.

I will keep the olds internet discussion group posted. I cannot stay on,
so If anyone wants me to read their comments send me a copy at
sytsma@gzinc.com

we have a new homepage visit

http://home.gzinc.com/sytsma/


Dennis Jon Sytsma
Homestead, Florida
- --
The Sytsma's,
mailto:Sytsma@Gzinc.com
Ruled by the Zapper,
mailto:ZapperI@Juno.com

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:22:52 -0300
Subject: Re: big block doesn't fit

dedarnell@electro-matic.com wrote:
>
> I put the big block in the cutlass this weekend ('71 convertible).  I got
> the BB motor mounts and BB frame mounts.  The holes for the motor mounts
> are not lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame mounts.  The holes
> overlap just enough to stick the tip of a pencil in it.  Is this right?  If
> it is, how do I get the bolts through there?
>
> One more thing.  I have an edelbrock torker intake, and the A/C bracket
> doesn't mount right on.  The mounting hole is in a different spot on the
> intake.  Is there an easy fix.
>
> I am on the digest, so it will help if you e-mail me directly also.
> Thanks,
> Dave

Ouch!!! I'm planning on putting my 455 that I'm currently building into MY '71
cutlass convertible!  I would like a foward of the solution to these problems
PLEASE!

- -greg

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:29:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup?

> I'm sure I want to go the way of the adjustable rocker but I guess I'm
> just procrastenating a little before I actual do it. What I want to
> really want to find out is, if I can get away with just replacing the
> pushrods with a longer length and keeping the rest of the valve train
> stock, but I gather that this is not possible and still maintain correct
> valve geometry.


Mondello makes a kit that shims the stock rocker arms- it seems like a
pain-in-the-ass to set up, but it's cheaper over-all, but doesn't improve HP. >
 > Forget about the rod bolts stuff, I already knew that answer but what >
the hech it might help someone out if they were thinking of doing that. > Hey
Greg  where did you order the comp. cams kit from? >

My machinist ordered them directly from Comp. Cams, but I would give Summit
Racing a call, they carry 10 times more parts than their catalog shows.  If
they don't have it, PAW sells it, I saw it burried somewhere in their 3 inch
thick catalog.

- -greg

------------------------------

From: Richard <raf@cmpu.net>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:32:23 -0300
Subject: Re: I.D. Numbers Please

Hi Jim,


>
> I'm Sure This Has Been Asked And Answered Many Times Over..
>
>>
> To Start(to the best of my knowledge) '71/'72 Bid Block 455
> No Car For Vin Or So Forth JUST The Motor..
>
> Heads "G"

These are 1971 heads.  All 455 except W-30

> Block (above waterpump)(you no where i mean) "396021F"

These Block codes indicate a ,  455 CID, years  1968-1972

> Oil Filler Tube "2556631"
>
> And If There Are Other Places I Should Look For Particular Numbers
> Let Me Know..

On 68-72 models the VIN code in on the block on a pad located on the
driver's side front( on the ª1 cyl., jus below the cyl. head
>
>
Richard Fuqua
'69 442 (455, 4-speed)

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:35:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Chat Link URL

- ----------
> From: J2RKT@AOL.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds Chat Link URL
> Date: Tuesday, May 27, 1997 6:27 PM
>
>   I just signed on a Netcom account and can do the IRC thing now --
please
> send the URL one more time cause id like to join in mebbe.
>
>                                   thanks
>                                                 J2RKT@aol.com

That would be ªoldsmobile on a DALnet server.  Hope to see you there....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:50:31 -0300
Subject: Dallas Car Shows

If anybody is interested in any car shows in the D/FW area please
Email me and I will be glad to give you the ones I know of. Let me know
if anybody is going to any, and tell me of any I might not know of after
I post the other shows if anybody wants them posted.

P.S. What is the Y-60 option?
  Thanks,
  RS
'70 442 4-SPEED W-25

------------------------------

From: DavidB442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:55:08 -0300
Subject: Re: WIRING PROBLEMS

Hi Bob ,
  Have you tried Faxon books... They really into automotive manuals and other
lit.
I'll he mail you there info tomarrow as I have it at work not home.

DavidB442

------------------------------

From: "S. STEPHENS" <sstephen@NMSU.Edu>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:07:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Interior body work ('65 98)

I have a '68 98 convertible and the rear seat does take a 6"x9" speaker in
my car. The dash speaker is a 4"x10" if you need that one as well.
Glad to hear someone else is interested in the big boats besides me.
Good luck and yell if I can answer any other questions. My knowledge isn't
that great but I'll help if I can.

Best wishes,
Scott Stephens
'68 98
'41 GMC

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:10:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Indy Olds stuf

At 03:13 PM 5/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> We Olds fans have a lot to crow about w/ this years Indy. The Olds V-8's
are >> the first in 20 years to be normally asperiated(sp). Has anyone seen
the >> Aurora commericials shown during the Indy?

Yes, finally some decent Olds commercials! Almost makes you excited about
driving an Aurora. Maybe a used one in ten years or so...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:10:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

At 07:01 PM 5/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 07:07 PM 5/27/97 -0300, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:
>>This was stock 1970 442 M-21, 3.42 posi, and a OAI setup.
>>
>>Hold on....   Looks like your in luck, I had the file on my computer=
 still.
>>Here's my time slips from last year for your amusment...
>>
>>PASS =A66
>>ET:   14.378
>>MPH:  98.973

Pretty good times for your first time out! What was the temp and altitude of
the track, and what tire were you using?

Some magazines got consistently better times than others, due to the
"aggressiveness" of their drivers. Super Stock and Drag Illustrated used to
get the fastest times, while Motor Trend seemed to lag about .5sec behind;
rather than brake torquing an automatic or powershifting a 4-speed like
SS&DI would do, MT would launch from idle or granny shift from one gear to
the next. Heck, SS&DI would change tire pressures, change the timing, etc.,
to get the best times, and technically the car was purely "stock", since
nothing was in it or on it that didn't come from the factory. I guess some
cars are "more stock" than others...

Of course, with some better tires and some tuning, Jeff's car could quite
easily be in the 13's, but then we're not talking about a "stock" 442 then,
are we.

>I was curious what cars like this ran. Thanks for posting these numbers.=
 Now
>can someone help me understand this. This is not an attempt to bash anyones
>car, year of car, etc so don't y'all get all worked in a frenzy and tell me
>how your car can kick the crap out of mine because it probably can and I
>really don't care.  I just need educated. How can my 93 Z/28...(ignore my
>e.t. in my sig as that is with a non-stock engine) with a SB Chevy 350,
>275hp, 325 torque, 3600lbs, 3.23 posi-rear, 700R-4 automatic tranny run=
 bone
>stock times in the 13.8 to 14.1 range at 97-99mph....run faster or nearly
>the same as a bone stock 70 442 with a 455? Isn't the 70 442 about=
 ~3800lbs?
>Maybe 60ft times can explain it? I am getting 1.9x to 2.1x times on street
>tires.=20

The fact that the MPH's are basically the same shows basically equivalent hp
(net); your et's are better because you've got more traction through one
tire than Jeff has through all four...

As for the reason why a 350ci motor has nearly the same net hp as a 455ci
motor, quite simply your computer-controlled, fuel-injected motor is a lot
more efficient. If both motors are putting out similar net hp, it means that
both are converting the energy content of an equivalent amount of gasoline
to power at the wheels.

Now, a lot of the gasoline getting sucked into the 455ci motor is not
burning completely, and quite a bit of the gasoline that *does* get burned
is lost to the higher friction of the moving parts of the 455ci motor. Just
think, how much hp would it take to spin a 455ci motor to, say, 4000rpm?
Just think how hard it is to spin one over by hand *without* the spark
plugs, then add in the force required to compress the air/fuel mixture, and
then turn the transmission, rear gears, wheels, etc.

Your 350 has relatively lightweight parts, low-tension oil rings, and less
friction surfaces, so more of the energy in the gasoline that it is burning
pretty efficiently is making out through the crankshaft and to the wheels.

Of course, Jeff could apply all these principles to his 455, and then your
350 would be a bit behind. As they come from the factory, however, your 350
is more sophisticated, and already has a lot of the "hot-rodding" built into=
 it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:11:43 -0300
Subject: Re: LD Title Transfers?

I also recently used K&J and was very impressed with their service. I would
use them again.  Dan442Olds

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:18:58 -0300
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup?

At 10:29 PM 5/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> I'm sure I want to go the way of the adjustable rocker but I guess I'm
>> just procrastenating a little before I actual do it. What I want to
>> really want to find out is, if I can get away with just replacing the
>> pushrods with a longer length and keeping the rest of the valve train
>> stock, but I gather that this is not possible and still maintain correct
>> valve geometry.
>
>Mondello makes a kit that shims the stock rocker arms- it seems like a
pain-in-the-ass to set up, but it's
>cheaper over-all, but doesn't improve HP.

Crane makes these shims (probably where Mondello gets his; I got mine from
Jegs, I think) as well, and it won't take more than an hour to set up.
They're only $10 a pack; I bought two just in case, and ended up using two
from the second pack.

If you use +.050" pushrods with a -.100" base-circle (-.050" radius) cam,
the tip of the pushrod is exactly where a stock-length pushrod on a stock
cam would be, so valvetrain geometry wouldn't be a problem. You can only go
to about .060" with the shims anyway (there are two thicknesses, .020" and
.030", if I recall correctly; maybe it was .015" and .020"). The job is a
little tedious, but once you know the clearance figure you want for optimal
preload, it goes pretty quickly (maybe two hours tops, if you're taking your
time).

And no, it doesn't improve hp, but the lifter preload may keep you out of
valve float at higher rpms where you otherwise couldn't go, and most of all,
it will stop the valves from clattering!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 00:30:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

At 12:10 AM 5/28/97 -0300, Robert J. Barry wrote:

>Your 350 has relatively lightweight parts, low-tension oil rings, and less
>friction surfaces, so more of the energy in the gasoline that it is burning
>pretty efficiently is making out through the crankshaft and to the wheels.
>
>Of course, Jeff could apply all these principles to his 455, and then your
>350 would be a bit behind. As they come from the factory, however, your 350
>is more sophisticated, and already has a lot of the "hot-rodding" built
into it.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Robert, thanks for the insight. It is very much appreciated. I can just
imagine the amount of power a modern day 455 with the technology of the LT1
could put out. Chevy has the crate 502 H.O roller cam version putting out
532hp stock. An Olds 455 would probably be in that range if it was given the
development potential over the years. I am surprised at some of the dyno
numbers guys with LT1 Z/28's are getting on the f-body list. There are a few
in the 450 range rear wheel horsepower on highly modified naturally
aspirated engines. Supercharged cars are getting 525 at the rear wheels.
Incredible, yet I bet the engines don't last that long ;-) Take care.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........13.402 @ 102.31 on the old engine, new times ?
80 Olds 442 W-30........show car that is slow as hell...but looks fast
75 Hurst/Olds W-25....looks like the resto will get done this year!

------------------------------

From: padavano.joe@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 01:56:37 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: W-30 Detailing Question...

...I don't want to pull the intake on the >71' if i can find something that
cleans well while it's on the engine.

Just a suggestion, how about aluminum wheel cleaner?  I've never used the
stuff for anything or tried to clean an aluminum intake, but it might be
worth a shot.

     I've used this and it works great.  I should add, however, that I've
     only tried the wheel cleaner with the manifold off the car.  I would
     be concerned that the cleaner would damage the engine paint or
     otherwise wreak havoc under the hood if used with the manifold on the
     engine.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

From: SPotter596@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 02:10:58 -0300
Subject: need rear bumper 65   98

hoping someone out there may have a lead on a rear bumper  for 1965 98.


steve potter
65 f85-deluxe(beefed)
65 cutlass (dead)

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 02:38:49 -0300
Subject: The Carburetor Works

Richard Staley wrote:
>
> Richard Staley wrote:
> >
> > Has anybody heard of The Carburetor Works? I'm thinking about buying a
> > Rochester from them. Has anybody tried them? Any luck? Their supposed to
> > fix all the defects and problems on carbs. Thanks.
> >
> >           RS
> >         '70 442 4-speed W-25

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 03:33:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Interior body work ('65 98)

Dan,
Some comments based on my experience with my convert:.
>
>I removed the rear couch, I mean seat, from the Great White Shark.
>
>You know the chrome trim on the front side of the rear window (2 dr. pwr.
>windows)? You know how when they start to come loose from the window after
>30+ yrs ? Ever try to tell your sister-in-law to quit playing with the
>window ? Well, it fell INTO the body panels (I guess I should be happy that
>it is not on some highway being abused by the tires of lesser vehicles)! To
>get it out, I had to remove the rear seat, take off the interior panels,
>and thank my genetic stock for long arms.

While you were in there did you clean out the drains which lie facing inward
(ie toward the driveshaft) of muck and gook which may have built up? Suggest
you do this to keep the car dry during the winter. You'll have to pull the
interior panel, rain protectant tarpaper (more on this in a moment) and the
panel attached by the screws. Roll up the window and dig around.

Could be a good time to replace the 30 year old tarpaper with heavy mil
vinyl, seal with duct tape, after you've put back the screw in panel. Back
goes the rear interior panel.

>
>So I find that there is some rust on the floor and bottom of the seat. I
>also find that the insulation is pretty well shot. These were obviously
>replaced at one time (probably within the last 10 years). I am going to
>clean up this mess with a wire cup brush and a drill. Once prepped:
>
>1) Anything better to use that Rustoleum on the metal parts???
>
>2) What to use for insulation (floor, in back of rear seat, and beneath
>interior trim panels on the doors)? Summit lists Dynamic Control's Dynamat.
>Is this worth the $$$ ?

I've used nothing-special auto insulation, you may be able to buy this in
bulk from an auto upholstery supplier or one of the yards in Pacoima.

>
>3) Planning on finishing up with 3 seat belts for the rear (None came in
>the rear). Anybody have a good idea on where to mount them on the body?
>Anybody like to FAX/Email me (NOT THE LIST!!!) a picture of a late model
>setup?

There should be mounting points at the sides and in the center of the body.
These take very weird size bolts. I'd be surprised if there weren't threaded
holes at all, maybe yours have been filled?
>
>4) There is a grill in the middle top of the rear seat-back that can be
>used to mount a speaker. Any ideas? "Looks" like a 6X9 might fit?

Yep, a 6 X 9 will fit with some coaxing (read bent metal) depending on how
big you want the speaker to be.
>
>Now that I am writing this, I neglected to get a good look at the rear
>deck. Sooo... I'll probably have a few more questions this week.

Hope my responses aren't too opinionated and are helpful.
hasta
cf

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 03:56:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Holes in my dash!

Michael Baugher wrote:

> Hi All.
> The previous owner of my 69 Cutlass cut 3-4 inch round holes in the metal
> portion of my lower dashboard in order to install speakers. I need
> some suggestions on a good way to cover the holes
> in hopes that it will appear original again.  I doubt I'll
> go to the
<SNIP>

The previous owner was a real a**Hole.

The best solution would be to find an entire dashboard but that might
be a miracle.

Because I don't know how the dashboard looks (exactly), some of the
following suggestions may be silly.

The only durable solution to cover a hole in a metal sheet is to use
a piece of metal over it. Sorry about that.

You could try fiberclass on the backside. Make the patch a LOT bigger
that the hole is and make it thick as Your holes are quite large.
The fiberglass will be somewhat elastic so even if You paint it
to be invisible, the hole will pop up after some time.

Another good solution would be to use metal sheet bent to match the
form of the dash and glue that in the backside of the dash. This is
a much stronger solution as the metal would be not be as elastic
as the fiberglass.

If the area is not very curved You colud try to cover the whole
underside of the dash with a large metal sheet. This would be an ideal
solution but is almost impossible to do if the sheet has complicated
curvature.

None of these methods is easy but they don't require welding....

Good luch with Your dash.

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:40:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)

>   Mark,
>     Does your air cleaner have a pin with aone way push on star washer?
>
YES ^^^^^^

>
>  P.S.  the oil filler tube on my car is blue and does not have the two
> letter I.D tag on it so I don't know if it is a ª's matching car. My car>

Maybe your letter designation has warn off?  Your code should be TU.

 is not a W-30 but a W-25, any info. would be appreciated on finding out
> if my car has matching ª's?
>   THANKS IN ADVANCE,
>   RS
> '70 442 4-speed W-25
>
>-- End of excerpt from Richard Staley

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 01:29:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Chris B. Witt

We have been exchanging Toronado & 330 build up stories lately - he's just
off the list.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 01:25:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Sport Mirror Question

Both of my mirrors like that have been (Micky Moused) siliconed into place
- - obviously this is a common problem.  And I always get the brain surgeon
Mr. Fixits as previous owners - !


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 01:39:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Holes in my dash!

Well that must have been after the 'standard issue' crowbar failed.  Why is
it people think thats e*a*s*i*e*r???


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 10:30:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Chat Link URL

>   I just signed on a Netcom account and can do the IRC thing now -- please
> send the URL one more time cause id like to join in mebbe.

It seems that the chat messages may be confusing more than simplifying
things.  IRC is different from the Web chat.  If you're asking for an URL,
you're trying to join the Web chat.  IRC requires an IRC client and has
nothing to do with the Web.  If you have a dialup account, you should, of
course, be able to do both.  The IRC is the ªoldsmobile channel we've
discussed in the past.  The Web chat is Charley's, I think, own web page
which he's set up with chat capability.  Hope this helps . . . .

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 10:27:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocket (air/cleaner)

Mark Cornea (R) wrote:
>
> >   Mark,
> >     Does your air cleaner have a pin with aone way push on star washer?
> >
>                 YES ^^^^^^
>
> >
> >  P.S.  the oil filler tube on my car is blue and does not have the two
> > letter I.D tag on it so I don't know if it is a ª's matching car. My car>
>
>         Maybe your letter designation has warn off?  Your code should be TU.
>
>  is not a W-30 but a W-25, any info. would be appreciated on finding out
> > if my car has matching ª's?
> >   THANKS IN ADVANCE,
> >         RS
> >       '70 442 4-speed W-25
> >
> >-- End of excerpt from Richard Staley


  Where on the oil filler tube is your ID tag? Real close to the cap
where it gets wider? Or somewhere on the skinny part? Are your ID
letters on some kind of metal tape, or kind of chiseled into the tube?
Is yours on the side of the tube or on the front?

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 10:43:33 -0300
Subject: ROCKIT TALK

We need to set up a time to get on to Rockit Talk!!   ALL IN
FAVOR!!!!!!!

  RS
'70 442 4-speed W-25

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 09:57:46 -0300
Subject: Re: radio speaker 4x10's

Christian- you might wanna try a Pep Boys. They have cheap, single, 4x10's
that have small magnets and are not paper cones. The paper breaks down faster
and don't sound as good. They have a complete line of these speakers from
3.5" to 6x9's and have heard em and recommend em for older radios






=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Jeff Dick <JEFFREY.A.DICK@cpmx.saic.com>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 12:05:00 -0300
Subject: Ertl model 69 442

Just picked up the Ertl Collectible 1969 442 W-30 Die cast metal car from
American Toy Warehouse.  Opened up and while it looks like there is a mount
for a  passenger side rearview mirror the car didnt have one.  First thought
was that it had broke off in shipping,  went back to the store and none of
the ones they had had one.

Called up Ertl this morning and they said this model was discontinued a year
ago (store had 8 in stock), but the nice sales lady offered to send me a
replacement car if I sent the olds back.  I asked if it would be the same
car, she said no, but would be from the muscle series.  (didnt know they
made any other muscle cars besides the olds in the late 60's and  I accused
her of wanting my car :).

So question is, did the 69 442 come with a passenger side rearview mirror,
 which means all of the models have a defect.  Or was it not an option, and
Ertl has just used doors from a similiar model (which explains the bracket
on the passenger door?

Also, should I go buy the remaining 8 cars??  ($20.00 each)

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 12:59:23 -0300
Subject: Re: radio speaker 4x10's

On Wed, 28 May 1997, SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:
> Christian- you might wanna try a Pep Boys. They have cheap, single, 4x10's
> that have small magnets and are not paper cones. The paper breaks down
faster > and don't sound as good. They have a complete line of these speakers
from > 3.5" to 6x9's and have heard em and recommend em for older radios

Be careful that they aren't 4 ohm speakers! That was the whole point of
the original discussion a few months ago. A 4-ohm is the most common by
far nowadays, but is hazardous to your old radio's health....

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª696
********************************
