To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #674


oldsmobile-digest          Wednesday, 14 May 1997       Volume 01 : Number 674

Re[2]: Mass. Salvage Yard
Re[2]: THEFT PROTECTION
RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: Re[2]: Mass. Salvage Yard
Re: Accessories and Ignition Switches
Re: 87 442 questions
'87 Olds 307 V8 PROM
Re: 71 442 info
Re[4]: Mass. Salvage Yard
425 Engine dilemma
Re[2]: repost: welder question
Still Searcing...
Hot Rod Power Tour
Humor... (fwd)
Hot Rod Mower
Re: repost: welder question
Re: Hot Rod Mower
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: 425 Engine dilemma
Re[2]: Hot Rod Mower
Re[2]: Accessories and Ignition Switches
right fender
Re: 71 442 info
Any 85 olds 442 owners?
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Gear Ratio Question
Center Caps (Olds)
Re: repost: welder question
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Re: 71 442 info
Re: Accessories and Ignition Switches
Re: Humor... (fwd)
Re: Re[2]: Hot Rod Mower
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Re: 425 Engine dilemma
Chewing up new alternators
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: 425 Engine dilemma
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?
Re: steering wheel
Re[2]: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
Re: Assorted Topics
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:08:53 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Mass. Salvage Yard

     I frequent Millis Used about twice a month.  Got a friend who works
     there.  I'm trying to get him to send me a list of all cars that come
     into the yard via e-mail.  Mostly late model stuff there, but the
     prices are excellent.

     Haven't been to Rich's or Dufours yet, but my nephew and I will be
     checking them out this summer, along with a bunch of others.


     - Pete
     '51 98
     '52 Plymouth Concord
     '73 Imperial(ist)
     '82 98


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Mass. Salvage Yard Author:
tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill) at imail Date:    5/14/97 10:33
AM



>      Don't know the name of yard in this area, but I will soon!  I live in
>      Milford, MA so its just a short hop away.  Perhaps this weekend.....
>

Pete Aand Other Mass. List Members):

I'm not sure of the yard in Douglas/Uxbridge either -- it might be associated
with Goldie's Used Auto -- but seeing how you're in Milford, have you
ever tried Millis Used?  I haven't been there for a while, but I used to have
good luck there.  This was in my pre-Olds days though, so...

Also have had good luck at Rich's in Hudson, and Dufour's in Lancaster

Tim (One of the Few 'Native' Framingham Boys) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'



------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:23:27 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: THEFT PROTECTION

I like it!! And the relay kill is an active deterrent, rather than passive,
like a kill switch. Some insurance companies offer discounts for active rather
than passive theft deterrent systems. Not sure if Mike's relay kill would
qualify - the beauty is that it is automatic. A kill switch would add to the
deterrent.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------
Agreed, assuming you HAVE the bucks.  The relay kill was simply meant as
a very low cost way (<$10) to add some deterent -- not replace an alarm.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:28:05 -0300
Subject: RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help

Here is more information on computer controled charging systems. I =
checked the 88 Seville service manual and it has this type of system. =
This is the 120 amp CS-144 generator. It has 4 terminals labeled S, F, L, =
and P.

The S terminal is connected to a external 12V source and is the voltage =
to be sensed.

The F terminal is connected to the computer and is used to turn on the =
Service Electrical System message and telltail lamp.

The L terminal is also connected to the computer. 12 volts is sent from =
the computer to turn on the generator. The computer can turn the =
generator on and off using this terminal. The L terminal is also used to =
detect faults. The terminal is grounded when it detects an internal fault =
and the computer detects this and turns on the light and message.

The P terminal is not used. (Labled TACH terminal in one of the figures).

The generator regulator can switch the field current on and off at a =
frequency of 400 cycles per second (or Hz). At high speeds the on-time =
may be 10% and the off time may be 90%. At low speeds the on-off time may =
be 90% and 10% respectively with high electrical loads to maintain proper =
system voltage.

I dont know if anyone on this list can use this information, but someone =
may find it interesting to know how a computer controls the  alternator =
or generator as Cadillac calls it. I had to replace the generator two =
times in over 120,000 miles. The bearings go bad and make a lot of noise. =
I replaced it the first time with a new one from Advance Auto that has a =
lifetime warranty.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 07:42:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mass. Salvage Yard

I was curious to know if this salvage yard carries alot of Oldsmobile
parts and if so could you please give me directions from Boston.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:03:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Accessories and Ignition Switches

>From the November, 1966 issue of The Oldsmobile Service Guild Product
>Training Manual:
>
>ACCESSORIES WILL NOT SHUT OFF
[...]
>Tapping the relay will sometimes temporarily correct the condition.

Don't you miss those days when just about every automotive problem could
be solved by hitting it with a hammer?

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:43:12 -0300
Subject: Re: 87 442 questions

For anybody who wants to find out the rear ratio on a later model Gildwood
body.. All you have to do is to peek at the RPO label up under the trunk
lid. Look for the 'Gxx' code. That is the rear ratio.
Heres a few examples...
*GT4= 3.73     *GM1= 2.59
*GU2= 2.73     *GM8= 2.56
*GU4= 3.06     *GU3/GW9= 2.93
*GU5= 3.23     *G44= 3.07
*GU6= 3.42     BTW- these are not all G body's ratios

=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:38:17 -0300
Subject: '87 Olds 307 V8 PROM

    I am trying to change the program on the PROM in my '87 Olds 442 (307=

V8).  I finally pulled the stock PROM and tried to read the program from =
it
using a Data I/O 2900 PROM burner.  I thought these ECMs used a 2732 or
2732A PROM but when I tried to read mine, all I get is a 0 checksum and n=
o
data.  Any ideas???  I want to raise my TCC speed.  Thanks,

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8 =

'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6  =

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:38:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 442 info

Robert and Susan Colombo wrote:
>
> I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and have
> passed the car to me. It's in good condition and all it really needs is
> some replacement of worn out parts (front end bushings,tires,paint job
> etc). I'm not looking to make it a show car just a really clean 442. I
> guess I'll get to my question. The car has had its shair of bumps and
> grinds. It's had both front fenders replaced and a small amount of bondo
> on the rear quarter panel. Over all it's a  clean car.
>
> How much does bondo reduce the value of the
> car?
> It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do it
> one last
> time.
> Where can I find factory info on this year car?(original decal
> placement,options,pictures
> etc)
> I'm just starting to learn about 442's so if I seem fresh I am. I would
> appreciate any info on 1971 442's or places I can find any
> info.          Thanks     71' 442

First of all, with the wealth of information available on this list from
all the Oldsmobilers, this is a good place to start.  Another good place
to start is to obtain an assembly manual and a shop service manual.
Usually you can get these from Year One or Parts USA, and other
vendors.  I also have a 71 442, and I use both of these manuals, so if
you have questions, e-mail the list or me directly and you can probably
find an answer for just about any question concerning decal placement,
general information, options, etc.  They didn't make that many '71
442's, and it was the last year for the 442 body line, (before '68, and
after '71, the 442 was a Cutlass option) so it is a very good car to
hang on to.  It wasn't as famous as the rip-snorting '70 W-30, but it
had a 455 c.i.d. as standard equipment.  Can't complain about that!  So,
welcome to Oldsmobile-land, and I think I speak for all of us here,
"Welcome, and Happy Oldsmobiling!"

Mike Rothe
1969 442 and H/O
1971 442
1985 442

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:52:21 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: Mass. Salvage Yard

     Which yard?  Millis Used?

     Not much older stuff, lots of FWD stuff, though.  80's-90's mostly,
     although they do get in a few "jewels".  I scarfed some parts from a
     '69 New Yorker 'vert for my '73 Imperial(ist).  Since the yard is not
     all that big, they do a lot of crushing.  They can't expand because it
     borders "wetlands"...enviro-stuff...I won't go there  >8^().

     - Pete
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mass. Salvage Yard
Author:  "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com> at imail Date:    5/14/97 7:42 AM


I was curious to know if this salvage yard carries alot of Oldsmobile
parts and if so could you please give me directions from Boston.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>


------------------------------

From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:56:33 -0300
Subject: 425 Engine dilemma

Greetings everyone-
   Well here I am again asking for help :)  (BTW thanks to everyone who
helped finding some hood hinges for me)  In short my engine died a
painful and horrible death and is in the process of being rebuilt.  The
mechanic says he can get parts to repair the engine, but *if* the engine is
unrepariable has no ready source for a 425 big block (I'm being picky and
don't want a brand spanking new and shiny engine, I want one to keep it
as close to original as I can)...So once again I'm asking if anyone knows
where I can find a 425 engine which can be repaired.

  And while I'm on the subject does anyone know anything about a 'well'
choke that goes in the manifold (this is/was a 425 from a 66 delta88)?  I
know next to nothing about the workings of cars but would like to learn a
bit about it.

Thanks again for the help,
Laura

1966 Delta 88

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:14:07 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: repost: welder question

Good advice. Pick up a copy of the HP book on Welding, about $12. It covers
the many types.

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------
        Save your money if you really need a welder. MIG is the only way to
go. My neighbor and I share a Lincoln unit and love it. It does a great job
and doesn't warp the daylights out of the metal. You will be surprised at
how often you'll use it once you've got it. Plus all your buddies will want
you to do little jobs for them. As a cutting torch it sounds like a great
little device. Something you could even take to a wrecking yard to remove
those stubborn parts. If your worried about how to weld maybe look into a
vocational course or two if they are available.

My two cents worth;

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:03:33 -0300
Subject: Still Searcing...

From: Michael Baugher on 05/14/97 11:03 AM

Hi all,

I'm still searching for good used black buckets and rear seat for a 69
Cutlass convertible preferably in the midwest.
Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:28:52 -0300
Subject: Hot Rod Power Tour

There will be a couple of us that will be driving from Detroit to
Lansing IL to meet up with the Power Tour on Friday. Is anyone from the Olds
list going to be there or driving in it? If so, let me know, and look for a
RED '70 w30 and a BLUE '70 442.
                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:50:14 -0300
Subject: Humor... (fwd)

- ------------------------------------------------------------------

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far
from the
 object we are trying to hit.

 MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard
  cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
  containing convertible tops or tonneau covers.

 ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in
their
 holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling
 rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the
brake
 line that goes to the rear axle.

 HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
 principle.  It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
 motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal
 your future becomes.

 VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads.  If nothing else is
available,
 they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of
your
 hand.

 OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale
garage
 cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer
(What
 wife would think to look in _there_?) because you can never remember to
buy
 lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort
Campbell.

 ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetylene torch.

 WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
 motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems
from
 the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason.

 DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
 metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest
and
 flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling
Stones
 poster over the bench grinder.

 WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
under
 the workbench with the speed of light.  Also removes fingerprint whorls
and
 hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say,
"Django
 Reinhardt".

 HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after
you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs,
trappng the
 jack handle firmly under the front air dam.

 EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a
 hydraulic jack.

 TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

 PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another
 hydraulic floor jack.

 SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
 spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

 E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes
and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

 TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup
on
 crankshaft pulleys.

 TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
 strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have
forgotten
 to disconnect.

 CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool
that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
without
 the handle.

 BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
 from car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
your
 battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

 AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

 TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth.  Sometimes called a
drop  light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin",
which
 is not otherwise found under cars at night.  Health benefits  aside,
its
 main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the  same rate
 that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the  first few
 hours of the Battle of the Bulge.  More often dark than  light, its
name
 is somewhat misleading.

 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
 paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used,
as
 the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

 AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
 power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
 travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
 suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon,
 Oxfordshire, and rounds them off.

- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:46:00 -0300
Subject: Hot Rod Mower

Hi all,

I've been off the list for a while due to way to much work, and not much
time for fun, but I thought I'd share this with and give you all a good
chuckle:

I recently got a riding lawn mower from a guy here at work for $50.00.  It
was in pretty bad shape because it sat outside for nearly two years.  I
basically refurbished it completely......then........CUSTOMIZED IT!  I now
have the worlds first Oldsmobile 4-4-2 lawnmower!  I had some fun with it
(can you tell?).  I took it all apart, rebuilt the engine, sanded all the
parts down to bare metal, then repainted it to original colors (black, red,
and white) and began transforming it to an Oldsmobile.  It comes complete
with dashboard display (speedometer, tachometer, and fuel, oil and temp.
gauges [actually it's just a big sticker]), a couple other gauge stickers as
well, 4-4-2 stickers on both the top and sides of the hood,  a chrome
Cutlass script emblem on the grille (off of an old Cutlass in a junk yard
from years ago), Edelbrock performance decals......and....to complete the
look, I took one of the "Oldsmobile Rocket 350" air cleaner decals that I
had as a spare for my '69 Cutlass and put it right in the center of the
hood.   Then, I realized there was still something missing.  As I looked it
over, I realized that just below the back of the seat on the rear of the
mower, there was just enough room for a license plate.  So, off the wall
came one of my "6T9-442" custom license plates from the old 4-4-2 I used to
have, and within minutes the look was finally complete.  As silly as it
sounds, it actually looks pretty cool!  The only problem is that the little
Tecumseh 6 horsepower engine doesn't quite live up to the "Rocket 350" that
it boasts.  Oh well, that's life!  I do get some chuckles and thumbs up from
the neighbors though as I putt around on it.

VVVVROOM! VVVVROOM!

Later,

Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible

ps.  I am still restoring the '69, and just got a 455 block for the '68.
 Also, this Sunday will be Archway Oldsmobiles Annual Mayfest event in
O'fallon IL, for anyone in the viscinity.  It is the biggest event we
sponser and the biggest show as well.  I'll be there in my white Archway
Olds T-shirt with red lettering.  Anyone interested please E-mail me
privately, and I'll be glad to give you more details.

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:53:07 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

>              I posted this earlier, but it looks like the message never
>came though.  I though I'd try it again.               Thanks.
>
>
>I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the other
>day.  I know this topic was discussed earlier but I'm afraid I didn't take
>good enough notes.  (I accidentally trashed the messages)

There has been some GREAT advice on this topic, so I'll just add...

I am taking a welding course at our local community college for SMAW, Oxy
Acet., and Brazing.

I thought one of these (Oxy/Acet) would be good for body work. Now that the
semester is almost over, I would agree with MIG being the way to go!

My instructor with 40+ years of experience could use an Oxy/Acet for sheet
metal, but no one else I have run into could... Everyone takes these
classes for knowledge and certification, then 80% of them get jobs as MIG
welders...

Propane is not good for welding, especially for beginners. It creates alot
of BTUs but at a lower Temp than Acet. It also consumes a great deal of O2.

MAPP has a higher Temp than Propane, but lower than Acet. MAPP uses more O2
than Acet. MAPP can be stored under pressure like propane.

Propane and MAPP are good for brazing. There is no replacement for an
Oxy/Acet setup!

Acet. OTOH cannot be stored under pressure (after 15 lbs/sq.in. it is self
igniting). They use a special container filled with a porous material
filled with Acetone. Acetylene dissolves in Acetone.

You can only run an Acet. unit at 1/7 the cylinder capacity per hour. This
means that tank size also affects maximum tip size...

As for MIG welders, one of the guys here is looking at a Lincoln SP-100, or
preferably, an SP-125. $500 price range for a complete set-up (You always
have to buy extra pieces... So the advertised prices are just for a red
box).


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:08:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Hot Rod Mower

Jeff Zeilmann boasts:

> I recently got a riding lawn mower from a guy here at work for $50.00.  It
> was in pretty bad shape because it sat outside for nearly two years.  I
> basically refurbished it completely......then........CUSTOMIZED IT!  I now
> have the worlds first Oldsmobile 4-4-2 lawnmower!

<Description of cool tranformation snipped>

Hmmm.... does this mean that 4-4-2 *now* stands for:

4 - HP (No, I guess you said 6 h.p., but this fits better :) )

4 - Stroke

2 - Blades

???????? :)

That model designation is always evolving....




Tim (Wonders If He Should Do a H/O Snowblower Over the Summer) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:16:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

> It isn't a spreadbore. It's a 650cfm vacuum-secondary carb.
?????????????????????
What is the list ª of this mystery Holley ? they didnt make a 650 vacum
secondary that I know of.

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:30:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 Engine dilemma

  ...And while I'm on the subject does anyone know anything about a 'well'
choke that goes in the manifold (this is/was a 425 from a 66 delta88)?  I
know next to nothing about the workings of cars but would like to learn a
bit about it.

          Laura,

          Not knowing the level of your automotive expertise, I'll err
          on the side of a more basic explanation.  I apologize if
          this is a little too basic.

          The "well" choke was a type of bimetallic spring used to
          activate the choke on GM carburetors.  Virtually all carbs
          with automatic choke use some sort of bimetallic spring
          arrangement to activate the choke.  The bimetallic spring is
          composed of two different metals bonded side-by-side into a
          thin strip which is then wound into a coiled spring (like a
          watch spring).  The center of the coil is held by a bracket
          and the different thermal expansion rates of the two
          different metals causes the outside end of the coil to move
          in relation to temperature.

          This bimetallic spring is connected to the choke plate on
          the carb through a linkage.  On cold days, the coil
          contracts a lot and the choke plate closes all the way.  On
          warmer days, it closes less.  As the engine warms up, engine
          heat (or other source, such as an electric heater) causes
          the coil to expand, forcing the choke to open.

          There have been several methods of running engine heat to
          the coil, including running hot water past the coil or
          drawing air heated by the exhaust past the coil.  In your
          application, Olds decided to use the exhaust heat in the
          crossover passage in the intake manifold as the method for
          heating the choke coil.  (For information, there is an
          exhaust passage - called the crossover - in the intake
          manifold which passes under the carb and is connected to the
          center exhaust ports in each head.  The reason is to use
          this exhaust gas to heat the intake manifold when cold and
          improve fuel atomization.)  The "well" you referred to is a
          cast pocket in the intake above this crossover.  The
          bimetallic coil sits in this well and is heated by the
          exhaust as the engine warms up.  A linkage rod connects it
          to the carb's choke plate.

          Olds has also referred to this arrangement as a "divorced
          choke", as opposed to the more standard integral choke which
          is mounted to the carb body.  The choke coil for your setup
          is difficult to come by these days, as Olds only used this
          arrangement for a few years in the 60s.

          Hope this helps

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:19:13 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Hot Rod Mower

Cool! I wonder if the repo shifter lense would fit?

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

Tim (Wonders If He Should Do a H/O Snowblower Over the Summer) Churchill

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:30:42 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Accessories and Ignition Switches

Ha! And revving the motor a couple of times!

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------
Don't you miss those days when just about every automotive problem could
be solved by hitting it with a hammer?

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: hot69w30@webtv.net (david harmon)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:25:59 -0300
Subject: right fender

wanted right fender for 1969 olds cutlass. must be rust free and good
shape. can you help.I need this to finish the car.

------------------------------

From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:25:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 442 info

MROTHE wrote:
>
> Robert and Susan Colombo wrote:
> >
> > I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and have
> > passed the car to me. It's in good condition and all it really needs is
> > some replacement of worn out parts (front end bushings,tires,paint job
> > etc). I'm not looking to make it a show car just a really clean 442. I
> > guess I'll get to my question. The car has had its shair of bumps and
> > grinds. It's had both front fenders replaced and a small amount of bondo
> > on the rear quarter panel. Over all it's a  clean car.
> >
> > How much does bondo reduce the value of the
> > car?
> > It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do it
> > one last
> > time.
> > Where can I find factory info on this year car?(original decal
> > placement,options,pictures
> > etc)
> > I'm just starting to learn about 442's so if I seem fresh I am. I would
> > appreciate any info on 1971 442's or places I can find any
> > info.          Thanks     71' 442
>
> First of all, with the wealth of information available on this list from
> all the Oldsmobilers, this is a good place to start.  Another good place
> to start is to obtain an assembly manual and a shop service manual.
> Usually you can get these from Year One or Parts USA, and other
> vendors.  I also have a 71 442, and I use both of these manuals, so if
> you have questions, e-mail the list or me directly and you can probably
> find an answer for just about any question concerning decal placement,
> general information, options, etc.  They didn't make that many '71
> 442's, and it was the last year for the 442 body line, (before '68, and
> after '71, the 442 was a Cutlass option) so it is a very good car to
> hang on to.  It wasn't as famous as the rip-snorting '70 W-30, but it
> had a 455 c.i.d. as standard equipment.  Can't complain about that!  So,
> welcome to Oldsmobile-land, and I think I speak for all of us here,
> "Welcome, and Happy Oldsmobiling!"
>
> Mike Rothe
> 1969 442 and H/O
> 1971 442
> 1985 442
Do you have an address so  I can mail away for these books? In your
opinion does a small amount of bondo and two replaced front fenders any
reason not to fix this car up?
What color is your 71? Mine is gold with a thick black stripe up the
hood and small stripes down the sides with a black vinyl top . Havn't
seen one like it yet.I also enjoy the dual gate
shifter.                                  Thanks for the welcome and
your help. I'm also a beginner at computors if you couldn't tell.

------------------------------

From: chips4@worldnet.att.net
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:47:27 -0300
Subject: Any 85 olds 442 owners?

Hi, this is Dave K. owner of a 1985 olds 442 if anyone else has
one, or any 442 for that matter feel free to e-mail me.  I am
particularly interested in seeing other 85's but am looking into
dropping a 1970 olds 442 w-30 engine in it. I know its a project and it
would probably just be cheaper buying a 1970 olds, but I hane already
done a lot of work on my 85 I just want the muscle car engine of 1970.
Right now I still have the original 307-cu-in. V8, 4-barrel carburetor,
190 hp.  I am looknig for any advice or suggestions anyone might have
who have some knowledge of engine swapping because I have very little.
I should be able to fit the 455-cu.-in. V8, 4-barrel carburetor with the
amazing 370hp.  But the transmission would most likely need upgrading as
well as maybe some wider tires.
So anyone who has suggestions or would just like to chat about their
cars feel free to drop me a line.
-Dave

------------------------------

From: "corey" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:39:20 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

I think you mentioned partª 1850 this is a standard  650 cfm carb that is
sold in summit and other catalogs.
dayc@ix.netcom.com
- ----------
> From: jones <jones@morgan.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 10:16 AM
>
>
> > It isn't a spreadbore. It's a 650cfm vacuum-secondary carb.
> ?????????????????????
> What is the list ª of this mystery Holley ? they didnt make a 650 vacum
> secondary that I know of.
>
>

------------------------------

From: "corey" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:44:10 -0300
Subject: Gear Ratio Question

I have looked for the two letter ID that is supposed to be on the passenger
side of the axle?  Could anyone provide a more detailed description of the
location of this marking.
Is this stamped in the axle or a Raised casting?   I have a 1970 Olds
Cutlass S.

Corey D
dayc@ix.netcom.com

1970 Cutlass S (455)
1968 Delta 88 (455 2bbl whoa!)
1985 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Pat McDermott <kor@thepoint.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 19:02:22 -0300
Subject: Center Caps (Olds)

Yesterday I saw a set of Olds Center Caps on non-Olds-wheels,they looked
real good. They added a nice detailed look(my wife isn't going to go for
that line), but they did look real good. I've got a set of American
Racing 15's on the car now, and as best I can measure without pulling
the wheel the center looks to be 3.25 inches in Diameter. What will fit
in there and about what will 4 cost?

Thanks,
Pat McDermott
69 Cutlass'S'

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:59:17 -0300
Subject: Re: repost: welder question

I'm with the "buy the best" group: Get a MIG, MIGs are great; I compared
the Lincoln and the Miller and ESAB; Picked up a Miller which, side by
side, I think is a better machine than the Lincoln. ESAB was a little
too much $. I prefer the wire feed on the Miller and feel it's more
rugged for stitch welding and lots of stop and go; Think the Miller
cabinet is better and I preferred the torch connection. Past posts note
that you should be sure the unit is designed so that the wire is not
energized unless you press the trigger: that's a must. If you decide to
buy, try a welding supply house that sell gases; word is they make their
money on wire and gas so they tend to cut prices on welding machines-I
picked up the Miller, cash, for less than a Lincolns from such a place.
I was looking for portability (120 volt instead of 230 volt) and welding
thin-not thick. Thin metal is the problem and trying to marry new metal
to old is the tough job. Old metal, thinned out by even a little rust,
is tough to weld. Most of the welding I've done has been on the lowest
settings and sometimes I wish there was a lower one. I use gas as
opposed to flux core since the flux core spatter ruins glass, paint,
plastic etc and is a pain to clean off. Most people I know have Lincolns
and they are happy with them but most of them who have tried my Miller
feel it's a little superior.
Also, ESAB makes a wire called EASY-GRIND. I tried it and it is much
easier to grind down those welds, although it is more expensive than
standard wire. Grinding is time consuming and it's almost as easy to
warp a perfectly welded panel by grinding hard as it is by overwelding.
That will make you really sick.
I'm not a welding pro by trade but have welded quite a bit: MIGs are
amazing.
I use a gas torch for metal shrinking on bodywork and loosening rusted
nuts, etc ("the gas wrench") but again, 99/100 times I'm looking for a
small flame.
I'd like to see some posts on auto welding tricks and problems.
Kevin O'Brien
78-98 2dr
48 Plym*uth coup
76 Newp*rt 4dr trip car
79 Z*28 ???
70 Chev*lle Convert
80 Ch*vy Pickup
85 F*rd Pickup
5 Sons + 15 PO'd Neighbors
Someday a 442 will top this list!

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 19:12:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

corey wrote:
>
> I have looked for the two letter ID that is supposed to be on the passenger
> side of the axle?  Could anyone provide a more detailed description of the
> location of this marking.
> Is this stamped in the axle or a Raised casting?   I have a 1970 Olds
> Cutlass S.
>
> Corey D
> dayc@ix.netcom.com
>
> 1970 Cutlass S (455)
> 1968 Delta 88 (455 2bbl whoa!)
> 1985 Olds Cutlass

Geeez, it's been a while since I looked for mine, but if I remember
right, I beleive it's on the axle tube facing the front of the car, I'm
not sure what side it's on though.  Take a flashlight and a wire brush
with you.

- -greg

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 19:23:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 71 442 info

> Robert and Susan Colombo wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm an owner of a 1971 442. My parents are the original owners and have
> > > passed the car to me.

My parents are the original owners of my '71 Cutlass Supreme convertable

It's in good condition and all it really needs is
> > > some replacement of worn out parts (front end bushings,tires,paint job
> > > etc).

I just put in new bushings, springs, and sway bars- if you have any questions,
email me

> > > It's also had two so-so paint jobs plans are to strip it down and do it
> > > one last
> > > time.

I also had to do this, but now even the "premium" two part exoctic clear coat
job has pealed off after 6 years of exposure to the elements.  (I don't have
a garage).  DON'T EVER go to Maaco for a paint job either, they ruined my car
two paint jobs ago.

> > > Where can I find factory info on this year car?(original decal
> > > placement,options,pictures
> > > etc)

Call Year one for a Cutlass catalog- it's the parts bible to go by:
1-800-950-9503  They aren't the cheapest, but have very high quality parts
and good service.

If you plan on doing any motor work, get a Mondello catalog too ($9)
805-237-8808

 In your
> opinion does a small amount of bondo and two replaced front fenders any
> reason not to fix this car up?

Definitly!  unless you're going to enter car shows (I do anyway with my daily
driver), I wouldn't worry about it. Good luck with your car, Oldsmobiles
ROCK!!

- -greg

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:14:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Accessories and Ignition Switches

At 12:03 PM 5/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>From the November, 1966 issue of The Oldsmobile Service Guild Product
>>Training Manual:
>>
>>ACCESSORIES WILL NOT SHUT OFF
>[...]
>>Tapping the relay will sometimes temporarily correct the condition.
>
>Don't you miss those days when just about every automotive problem could
>be solved by hitting it with a hammer?

     You mean we're ~not~ supposed to do that anymore??!!  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:14:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Humor... (fwd)

>  WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
> under
>  the workbench with the speed of light.  Also removes fingerprint whorls
> and
>  hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say,
> "Django
>  Reinhardt".
USE NUMBER 2:

The hand held unit is also useful for removing unwanted skin from your
knee, as I just found out last night.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:13:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Hot Rod Mower

man oh man, i wish i would have thoulght of this when I was 15 -16 and my
friends and I built hot rods out of our lawn tractors, we thoulght 31MPH
out of a tractor was great :), but now I have a real carfor use of the
emblems :) have some fun with yours!

'70 delta 88
'72 442
'79 cutlass

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:32:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

At 06:44 PM 5/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have looked for the two letter ID that is supposed to be on the passenger
>side of the axle?  Could anyone provide a more detailed description of the
>location of this marking.
>Is this stamped in the axle or a Raised casting?   I have a 1970 Olds
>Cutlass S.
>
      The two letter code is approx. 1/4" in hieght and is stamped into the
axle tube. They are usually inboard (toward passenger compartment) but at
times are also found outboard (towards rear of car).  I recently measured
the distance the code was from the right side backing plate which was 13".
This one happened to be on the outboard side of the axle.  Remember, it's
normal to have to work the heck out of the area with a wire brush before you
will be able to see it but it will be there.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:37:48 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 Engine dilemma

- ----------
> From: LAURA D. STEINKE <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 425 Engine dilemma
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 8:56 AM
>
> Greetings everyone-
>    Well here I am again asking for help :)  (BTW thanks to everyone who
> helped finding some hood hinges for me)  In short my engine died a
> painful and horrible death and is in the process of being rebuilt.  The
> mechanic says he can get parts to repair the engine, but *if* the engine
is
> unrepariable has no ready source for a 425 big block (I'm being picky and
> don't want a brand spanking new and shiny engine, I want one to keep it
> as close to original as I can)...So once again I'm asking if anyone knows
> where I can find a 425 engine which can be repaired.
>

You can use any 455 block in place of the 425 block.  Just save everything
from the 425 and have your mechanic put it on the 455 block.  This won't be
original, but only an educated Oldsmobiler could point out the difference.
I had a '66 Dynamic 88 with a 425 for parts.  The same conversion took
place on this car;  It had a 455 'F' block with 'B' (If i remember right)
heads and all the other 425 parts.  It should not be very hard to track
down a 455 block.  *The only consideration I guess would be having to
change camshaft and lifters, as these changed from 425 to 455, but that may
be a given as your engine is being rebuilt.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:48:08 -0300
Subject: Chewing up new alternators

>          Charlie (or anyone else),
>
>          My wife's 92 B**ck Regal Gran Sport (just think of it as a
>          Cutlass Supreme) with the 3.8 l B**ck V6 chews through
>          alternators.  I seem to recall a past thread about problems
>          with W-body alternators.  Does anyone have any further info?
>          Is this, in fact, a "computer-controlled" alternator, and if
>          so, what exactly does the computer control?  Is there
>          something I should be looking at other than the alternator?
>          The voltmeter is starting to do its dance again, indicating
>          that it's probably time for the annual alternator
>          replacement.  Fortunately, the rebuilt alternator usually
>          fails while still under warranty, so it's only the
>          inconvenience of having to do the work.  (Yes, I know, I'm
>          not a fan of rebuilts either - and wouldn't put one in my
>          442s - but frankly I didn't want to take the time in this
>          case).  Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>          Joe Padavano
>          jpada@orbital.com

Yeah, I seem to remember that thread, as well.  I don't remember what all
was discovered, though.  Dusting should probably pipe in, here.  He had a
similar problem before he joined the list.  It's because of that that I'd
paid a bit more attention to that thread then, but alas, not enough
attention...

What exactly is happening to the alternator?  Is it overheating and frying,
or are bearings going out, or is it more of a 4th of July parts fest :)




             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:48:12 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

At 01:57 PM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>Or you can just do what my dad claims to have done...  Rig up an extra
>>battery and ignition coil in the trunk and hook it to the body of the car,
>>using a remote to turn it on and off.  Of course, that's probably not such
>>a good idea these days, even if it would work.
>
>All right, I'll bite: How _would_ it work? You only get a jolt from the
>coil when the field collapses; it's not a continuous output like a high
>voltage power line. And how would it be wired to the car? And how would
>the offender complete the circuit just by touching the car? (Keeping in
>mind that the car is on rubber tires, for starters...)
>

OK, first, it's required to park the car over a large water puddle.  Next,
in addition to the MSD Blaster coil under the hood (with one lead grounded
to the firewall, and the other attached to a metal "wisker" hanging down to
the ground) We'll need to add some form of high quality neon transformer to
the same system.  There should be a radar (perimeter) sensor installed
inside the car.  When triggerred, it activates a thirty second timer that
fires the neon transformer.  It also sounds the horn for a moment.  Also,
there are at least eight highly sensitive shock sensors attached at various
points on the body.  Of course, they are set on full sensitivity.  Each, or
any, of these will trigger the secondary alarm -- The 60+Kv coil.  i.e.,
when the theif touches the car, he gets a really nasty zap, and is kept
frying by the 10KV Neon power supply.  To make sure things are fully secure,
the car should be painted with a high metal flake content paint, to cover
any fiberglass panels.  Of course, each vandalism attempt will don a new
custom graphic in the paint job, so if you advertise the stereo system well
(like the Rockit's windows:) and park in known-dangerous spots, ~and~ pick a
really cool color, like a midnight blue or something, within a month, you
should have a really wild graphics scheme going on.  Lightning graphics
~never~ came so easily :)

Oh, you might want to add a few Megafarads worth of capacitors to the
system, too, just in case....

Make sure the license plates and all ID tags are unreadable, just to save
liability, and make sure you have a pager attached to notify you of each new
attack, so you can move the vehicle before authorities arrive :)


Oh, all right, back to reality, eh?


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Diablo <olds442@en.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:52:15 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 Engine dilemma

LAURA D. STEINKE wrote:
> So once again I'm asking if anyone knows
> where I can find a 425 engine which can be repaired.

There is a 1966 425 sitting in my backyard.  Missing heads and intake.
Would need rebuilt.  Price is $75.. Come get it if your near Cleveland,
Oh.

Ken

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:01:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

I was not going to send a bandwidth cluttering thank you and reply to other
minor issues when suddenly:


>  > > It isn't a spreadbore. It's a 650cfm vacuum-secondary carb.
>  > ?????????????????????
>  > What is the list ª of this mystery Holley ? they didnt make a 650 vacum
>  > secondary that I know of.
>  >

LIST 1850-3
Even though I could not decode this the small black plastic cover was
conspicuous.
As far as the cfm rating, I would not know. Some suggested that 650 was too
small for 425. I have known this. This carburetor came from my brother for
$50. Price was right. The 650cfm and '76 intake are just a medium term
upgrade untill such a time as the money thing allows an Edelbrock Grade
Racing (sorry) manifold. BTW if anyone can say for certain that this combo is
NOT an improvement over a Rochester 2GC, please speak up.

And thanks again.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Empty Gasoline Reservoir?

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 19:46:24 -0300
Subject: Quadrajet rebuild, should I try myself?

OL>I bought a kit for $7.99 at the local parts house. Before I tear into the
ca

OL>Brendan P. Foley
OL>71 Cutlass Supreme

The first time I rebuilt a Q-jet I didn't have any help other than the
instructions in the kit. When I got done I put it on the car and didn't
have any problems(lucky?). Some times the linkages can be a bit of a
pain. The apt valve (in the float boal

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:15:57 -0300
Subject: Re: steering wheel

Luke Hogan wrote:
>
> ----------
> > Luke Hogan wrote:
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > > Does anybody know a place where I find a good steering wheel for my
> '70
> > > > 442.
> > > >
> > > > Sorry about sending the welcome message the first time.
> > >      Richard,                                                     A
> friend
> > of mine has a sport steering wheel ,  is
> > > that the type you want ?
> > >                          I don't  know if he will let it go.  I can ask!
> > >   Luke
> >
> >       Who made it?
> >
> >       YES
> >
> >       what color?        if yes how much?
> >
> >       It took so long for me to reply because the mail didn't come in.
>
>                    It is a 1970 -72 Olds (Factory) 4 s/s spoke steering
> wheel.                                          It came of a 70 Olds 442.
I haven't talked to him yet . > If your still interested e-mail me .  PS.
Color black grip, no horn button, > no hub, just the wheel only.


Mark can have the steering wheel, a good friend of mine decided to give
me his after I talked him into it!

  RS
 '70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:12:05 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: THEFT PROTECTION

     I recommend the Crimestopper alarms.  I have one on my car, it was
     previously in my '79, and is 2 1/2 years old now with no problems yet.
      I just installed one (same model as mine bought it used w/ manuals
     for $15!) in my fiance's truck, and it's working fine.  Mine cost
     about $100, plus another $30 for the microwave radar sensor (alarm
     will go off if someone merely sticks their hand in a rolled down
     window).  Well worth the money, and it has all the features!  Passive
     arming, aux output (hooked to trunk release), interior alumination,
     parking light flash, door lock activation, starter kill, silent
     arm/disarm (if I want), relays built into the unit, long wiring
     harness, the works.

     I agree with Dustin on the install, it's not hard if you understand
     auto electrical stuff, but it is time consuming (especially to do a
     nice, clean job) to connect all the wires (there are probably 2 dozen
     wires, you many not use all of them though).

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    5/13/97 3:04 PM

basic alarms really arent that expensive (stay away from the really cheap
stuff)  I think you can get one with ignition kill, shock sensor, couple
ground sensors (for doors,trunk,hood) and usually a couple "option" slots
(for door locks,trunk release)  for around $100-150  if your good with
electrical stuff the basic alarm is really easy (although intimidating &
time consuming)   prices for installation varies ALOT   depends on who you
know  but beware when having someone else wireing on your car their
standards might not be up to yours  I've seen some ~nasty~ messes of wiring
from idiots who claimed to know what they were doing

I think retail on my alarm, a Code Panther PVS 4 was around $500 for
everything (carryout) I've got the remote start and window module besides
the "base" alarm which does the door locks, trunk release,interior
illumination...... and of course a bunch of other stuff I havent used yet

Dustin



------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:46:11 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

>
> I think you mentioned partª 1850 this is a standard  650 cfm carb that is
> sold in summit and other catalogs.
> dayc@ix.netcom.com
>
> > > It isn't a spreadbore. It's a 650cfm vacuum-secondary carb.
> > ?????????????????????
> > What is the list ª of this mystery Holley ? they didnt make a 650 vacum
> > secondary that I know of.
If it is a 1850 its  a 600 cfm mechanical choke vacum secondary the 3310 is
a 750 cfm. VS there is no 650 vacum secondary Holley. The 4777 is a 650
double pumper mechanical secondary. Sorry to nitpick

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:54:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Assorted Topics

Nick Gomez wrote:
>
> Are there any Olds people here from Dallas? I know there are, I've seen
> some people mention it. I saw a beautiful period mid 50's Olds Super 88 (I
> guess) dark green with scallops and smoothies, the whole custom bit. Really
> beautiful car. I've seen it at Keller's Drive In (every Saturday night,
> lots of cool old cars, one club, and a lot of regular guys) on Northwest
> Highway, and at a car show in Mesquite. Is the owner on the list?
>
> I've been looking around some of the local yards looking for some front
> disc brakes for my car. What are the opinions on a possible swap? These
> drums really don't cut it, disc brakes are so nice. I'd like to get
> everything from the spindle outward, as long as my stock spindle and the
> donor match up. Also, the booster and dual master cylinder, as well as the
> proportioning valve. I think this would be a somewhat difficult swap, but
> I'd like to attempt it. What are some possible problems? I'd like to get
> big rotors from a Custom Cruiser or soemthing. Any suggestions as to what
> else I should look for? I'm worried about my wheels fitting on the new
> rotors, the spacing of the bolts may not be the same.
>
> I've seen some vintage Olds at the local yards. A 64 or 65 Olds Cutlass
> convertible, pretty trashed. For Texas cars, some of these sure are rusted
> out. Some later Cutlass' but nothing spectacular. A new yard just opened
> up, lots of untouched cars, most of them run! Let me know if you need any
> searching.
>
> Also, I thought about getting a posi rearend for my car. I know any 10 bolt
> or 12 bolt I find will not be long enough, so I though about just getting
> really wide tires to avoid having to lengthen the axle. Tub the wheelwells?
> Sure, why not. =) Just dreaming, of course.
>
> Well, take care, and keep in touch!
> Nick
>
> 1965 Olds Ninety Eight Town Sedan
> Dallas, Texas


Hey Nick I live in Arlington Texas, where did the new yard open
up?(their phone ª if possible)Where in Dallas do you live?

  RS
'70 442 4-speed

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:02:39 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

> LIST 1850-3
> Even though I could not decode this the small black plastic cover was
> conspicuous.
> As far as the cfm rating, I would not know. Some suggested that 650 was
too
> small for 425. I have known this. This carburetor came from my brother
for
> $50. Price was right. The 650cfm and '76 intake are just a medium term
> upgrade untill such a time as the money thing allows an Edelbrock Grade
> Racing (sorry) manifold. BTW if anyone can say for certain that this
combo is
> NOT an improvement over a Rochester 2GC, please speak up.

It will be a improvement it is a bit small for a 455 but its still a lot
bigger than the 2GC.
It wont work quite as well with the adaptor as it would with a manafold
that has the right size holes. If you could find a good one to rebuild a
Q-jet would be better.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª674
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