To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #602


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 9 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 602

Cruise Help
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
1973  442 Cutlass
'76 Dealer Announcement Kit For Sale (4/9)
Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED -Reply
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!)
Re: (2) Ram Air hood
Re: love me tender.....
Olds 307
Cabin Feaver (sic)
Worst Loss?
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
Re: Cruise Help
1970 Cutlass convertible questions
Re: Worst Loss?
Re: (no subject)
Re: Crankcase tech quiz
Re: Rocker Questions
Re: Guess what I found out?
RE: Ram Air Hood
[none]
Re: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
WTB: 455 engine in Wash. D.C. area
Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
Re[2]: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming
Re: Hood hinge help
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
Re: 1973  442 Cutlass
Re: Ram Air Hood
Re: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!)
Re: Guess what I found out?
Re: a lot of blown engines
Re: love me tender.....
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever
Re: Re[2]: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 04:09:02 -0300
Subject: Cruise Help

I checked to see if the wires are giving power to the main cruise control
unit (whatever it is called).  They do, but the cruise still won't engage.
Vacum test came out NORMAL.  I don't know what else could be the problem.
Also, if I decide to rewire the cruise (original wires though working I
can't trust.  I think they once had a short and even smoke coming from them
with the previous owner) how difficlut could it be?  From what I have seen,
there is four wires.  All I would want is ON/OFF and COAST, with of course,
disengagment with the tap on the brake.  If anyone has ever done this or
has any thoughs on it, anything would help before I decide to go on with
the process.  Thanks.

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 04:33:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

>
>Charley, I will take a stab at it.  You are probably experiencing an
>intake gasket leak into the lifter valley from the crossover area.
>Either due to a crack in the intake manifold or the gasket failing.
>Either that or the unlikey event of extremely wide clearances in your
>exhaust valve guides.  How did I do?
>
>Mike Rothe
>
Direct hit!  (at least according to my theories--and hopes!)  I'll have to
pull the intake off and actually look at it someday---soon!  As it's
currently ~snowing~ (it ~really~ is April, right???) and well below freezing
still, I think it can wait a little longer.  But soon, never-the-less!

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 04:48:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

At 09:44 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Well, a sad day has just happened, I found out that all that babble about
>water expanding at freezing point may be true.  Here in lovely Sask, we
>went from +10 to +15 days, to a whopping snowstorm/-20 weather
>(celcius).  The antifreeze was green on my driveway, apparently not green
>enough.
>
>
>It only leaked after I started it, and seemed to be drooling out
>by the driver side exhaust manifold, can Heads crack this way and let
>freeze out (Please say yes!)?

Look closer, maybe you just popped out a frost plug.  (hopefully?)  After
all, that ~is~ their partial purpose in life.  You'll need to get under the
car (most likely) to see them, but there's a chance you're not Homer'd yet.
Good luck, regardless...

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 04:48:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

At 08:57 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>The exaust crossover passage in the intake manafold is cracked and leaking
>exaust directly into the crankcase.
>Walter
>

Hey, there's ~two~ that match my thoughts (and hopes) now.  I don't like the
thought of the word "cracked" used in conjunction with the word "manifold."
I prefer to use the word "blown" with the word "gasket."  It has a much more
inexpensive sound.  Of course ~both~ still sound cheaper than "rings."  One
can still hope...




             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 04:48:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

At 11:03 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Folks,
>
>I believe that the problem is a broken piston ring.
>
>John
>
That would, however, lead to a fouled plug and a misfire, neither of which
are present.  Good try, but keep thinking (or you could cheat and look at
the other answers!  :)

Thanks, later  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 05:14:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

At 04:03 AM 4/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>This weekend (wether permiting of course) I am planing to strip my uncle's
>old 1980 Custom Cruiser.  Its waterpump is dead along with many other
>electrical components so he is jukning it.  Before he does, I am allowed to
>help myself to all kinds of goodies.  I have an 81' Delta 88 4-door.  What
>I am particularly interested in is getting his PW and if possible PD.  How
>difficult is it to convert from manual windows to power this way?  Are
>there any specific problems, etc.?  Same for power doors.

The best thing is to have both sets of doors available at the same time, to
use as reference, since the motors are often secured in different locations
than the crank parts were.  The proper fasteners are those monster rivets
and need a monster rivet gun (it's about two feet long, they also have
pnuematic ones, I hear)  Impressive machine, either way!  If time is of no
major consequence, take the dash ~completely~ out and rob the entire wiring
harness that runs from door to door.  Get those boots, too.  They all should
closely match yours, I think.  You can then pop out your plastic plugs in
the doorjambs (Hopefully yours has those already!) and just lay the wiring
in place.  The harness should be able to plug right into your fuseblock
(don't forget to grab that little 30A circuit breaker from the donor) and
there might even be a hole in the kick panel to accept the relays.  The
biggest problem to be aware of is time and patience.  No major astrophysics
involved, just time and attention to details.  You can make them look quite
stock if you follow those guidelines.  If the Cruiser's door panels are
similar to yours, I'd take them, too, so there are no holes from the old
cranks.  (Although I found out that the rubbery threaded seat belt plugs fit
the door panel holes quite well and look fairly clean.  Color matched, and
all!  (well, much better than a big greasy hole!)

If you take your time you can even salvage all those little Jesus clips that
hold the wiring in place.  Pay particular attention to the wire routing when
it first enters the door.  There's probably a clip holding it straight down
after the grommet.  This one is rather critical, cuz it keeps the harness
out of the glass's linkages. (~trust~ me on this one!)

Good luck.  Any more questions, feel free.  I've done this swap in my car
(much easier, tho' cuz there's only ~2~ doors to work on!) and it wasn't all
that bad (looking back, at least.  I'm sure I spent my fair share of
profanities at the time, but it was still very much worth it!)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: "Drew K. Bengert" <dk.bengert@sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 07:55:59 -0300
Subject: 1973  442 Cutlass

Everywhere I look, I saw alot of information for the 442's up to 1972.

I have a 1973 442 and I wonder where can I get info, manuals, decal
information, etc. for my car.

Thanks for your help.

Drew

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 08:26:27 -0300
Subject: '76 Dealer Announcement Kit For Sale (4/9)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

1976 Oldsmobile Dealer Announcement Kit - "Game Plan '76".  12 x 12 inch
folder with several pages of suggestions and ideas for dealers to have
used in introducing the 1976 models.  Would be an interesting show
display addition for any 1976 Olds.  The most interesting contents of
the kit are probably the 15 page (8-1/2 x 11) Oldsmobile Engineering
Report, which details the 34 models for the year with particular
emphasis on new features such as the Hatch Roof Option for the Cutlass
line, and the six 10 x 14 inch full color prints of the introductory
national magazine ads which were scheduled to run.  These ads are for
the Starfire SX, Starfire GT, Omega Brougham, Cutlass Supreme Brougham,
Cutlass Salon, and Toronado Brougham, and although they are folded in
half I believe that they would probably frame up nicely for display.
$15.00, including shipping to any address in the United States. (4/9/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: GARY RUBRICH <RUBRICH@bwaafs.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 09:07:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED -Reply

Hey Oldoldsguy,
 Are you still looking for a 68-69 tic-toc-tach? I've got one in
very good cond. E-mail me back.
                                               Gary,
                                               72 442 (350)

>>> <Oldoldsguy@aol.com>  4/1/97, 11:22am >>>

In a message dated 4/1/97 2:22:09 AM, you wrote:

<<On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:

> 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED.  ALSO, WANTED, A TICK TOC TACH FOR A 69
442.>>

see http://www.thehost.com/brothers   thay have your air cleaner!

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 09:06:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

On Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:44:57 -0300 Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
writes:
>Well, a sad day has just happened, I found out that all that babble
>about
>water expanding at freezing point may be true.  Here in lovely Sask,
>we
>went from +10 to +15 days, to a whopping snowstorm/-20 weather
>(celcius).  The antifreeze was green on my driveway, apparently not
>green
>enough.
>
>
>It only leaked after I started it, and seemed to be drooling out
>by the driver side exhaust manifold, can Heads crack this way and let
>freeze out (Please say yes!)?
>Of course, if this is a dead block, I may have to '350 it up just to
>avoid loosing my lovely 98 (actually it's ugly, but I'm planning to
>work
>on that)

>EA~

>Oh too think that I may have caused AISD (Another Insane Sensless
>Death)
(Joy too think I've got another block left!)
>
>
You may get lucky and have popped a freeze plug out of the motor :)

------------------------------

From: "John M. Barnes" <CHMPFISH@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 08:13:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
> changed the front tongue?

Yes, it will definately fit and works fine however, the air cleaner will NOT
work. The hood won't close with it on.

John

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:15:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

That's true about their reason for being Wiz, but I HAVE seen these freeze
plugs or whatever they should properly be called save a block!  Granted,
though, during a REALLY HARD freeze they probably wouldn't be much help.

Another thing that you should check, make sure it wasn't something as
simple as a radiator hose.  Is there any liquid in the intake?  This
actually happened to me one time with Lucille, scared the cr*p out of me
too; it got really cold, and the radiator liquid (which didn't have enough
anti-freeze in it) froze, not completely solid, but it froze.  When I
started the car up, there was coolant leaking everywhere, and just when I
was about to run cussing into the house, I noticed that the coolant was
collecting on the intake and looked closer.  The pressure of the ice had
split a hose slightly, and the coolant was leaking out here!  I waited
until it warmed up and replaced the hose, no problems since.  Oh, and btw,
I learned my lesson, right now, ALL of my cars have enough d*mn ant-freeze
in 'em to kill a horse.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
'84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350, 4bbl, TH375, 70k miles)

> are there so that the foundry can make the casting.  They put in the little
> stamped plugs, and call them freeze plugs: but they do that to fool you.  If
> you freeze the coolant, the little that might come thru the core holes will
> not save the block, or head; the heads have them too.
>
> Put this one in your list of olds wives tales, that just are not true.  A
> friend of mine just got a divorce from his wife, as she just turned 44, he
> wanted to trade her in on two 22s!
>
> The Wiz Was Here
>
>
> >Mike Evans
> >Richland, MI
> >evans1@net-link.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 00:31:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!)

>While looking through the latest Ch*vy-Rod, I found an Olds! I repeat, an
>Olds! No, not a feature (c'mon, be real; though they did a page on a '72 GS,
>which is almost as shocking), but a couple pictures of a '71 Vista Cruiser
>as the subject of their detailing article (pp. 38-39).

A detailing article?  Cool.  Did they mention that the V-C would make a
really cool car if it had a $10,000 deep gloss clearcoat paint job, a set of
custom boyd wheels, recaro seats, and a 500 cubic inch blueprinted chubby
crate motor?  At least they didn't hack the body off with torches like that
poor 'ol catalina last month.  It was a relatively rust-free two-door no
less.  All that to prove that if you drop weight by a few thousand pounds
you'll dramatically improve quarter-mile performance.  They proved that when
the writers all piled their fat a**es into the car along with their tools
and managed some pathetic quarter mile time with a curb weight of 6000 lb.
(I think they still made it in under still under 20 seconds)....But I'm not
bitter.

They really blew it when they sent the subscription renewal notice the same
week that thet published the pontihack article.

<Rant mode off>

Greg "is the coffee ready yet?" Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 09:56:00 -0300
Subject: Re: (2) Ram Air hood

>>JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>>
>> Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
>> changed the front tongue?

>The 70 hood will fit with the use of your hood extension.
>Please use an aftermarket hood as the originals are rare enough for the
>W's and 442's they came on.

> Docolds@Magmacom.com

I saw this done (using a '70 hood) on a '69 442.  It looked great, so do
it if you have the hood (original is always better than repro,
regardless of original application).
Scott M.
'70 442

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:18:00 -0300
Subject: Re: love me tender.....

Andy- Whitney *does* carry that 'love me tender' turn signal flasher.
I saw it in my catalog and they want $8.99 for that tasteless piece of trash.







=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:36:57 -0300
Subject: Olds 307

For the people who are familliar.  What are the weak points in the Olds
designs and specifically, what are the weak points in the 307's?

I drive this car for reliability (no rice burner can top this Olds!
187,750 miles, no major work, hardly any minor work!  Just TLC) and want
to know what to look out for.

Thanks
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass 307

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:39:28 -0300
Subject: Cabin Feaver (sic)

> From bculp@hiwaay.net Tue Apr  8 19:52:39 1997

<My Witty Anecdote Snipped>

>> Tim,
>
> You characters will do most anything to keep your minds off the smow.
> Is it cabin feaver or something?  Why not shovel a little to keep your
> mind occupied?

Well I would Bill, but the 30 inches of snow we had melted, helped in no
small part by the 80F day we had Monday -- Natch, it's 30F now and we had
a flurry during the morning commute...

I suppose I could do what you Suthunuhs seem to do to keep yer minds occupied
 -- daydream what woulda happened if'n you *won* the war :)

> I can't believe that I cam in from washing & waxing the Toro to find
> this post.  I gotta go now.  My granddaughter wants to take a ride w/the
> top down on the 442.

Remember to put that top back up during Tornado season.
But spit yer chaw first.

And, they're off!!!

(OLDS CONTENT:  Was reading the latest Car & Driver last night, and they
had a nice article on the Olds Aurora engines used in Indy Racing.)

Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:55:24 -0300
Subject: Worst Loss?

In 1991, I bought a 76 Custom Cruiser ($300) for the supposedly rebuilt
455.  Cool, Drop in my 80 Turbo T/A.  Well, drove it home, nearly no
brakes, leaking gas tank, she needed help.  Ran pretty good, considering
when I opened the hood the distributor was shaking opposite the engine
shake!  No bolt in it!  Well, got a line on a 70 Pontiac Hearse with a
455, 54K miles.  Saw it, bought that too.  I stored the wagon for a
parts car.  A friend of mine keep up the storage bills for me, so he
could get some parts off of it before it got scrapped, and eventually I
gave the whole car to him.  I was in the Military so I just didn't have
the time or way to get the car.

Well, he kept it out back for a year or so and then pulled the 455 and
THM 400 and sold it for $150.

Come to find out, the intake and heads were typical 1976.  The block,
was a 68, forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons, 4 Bolt Mains.  Was
this a W30 that I GAVE away?!?  I could just kill myself when he told
me.  They guy who got it just had to rub it in!

Oh well.  I lost out on that one!!!!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass 307

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:12:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

On Tue, 8 Apr 1997 evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:

> >Actually, before you decide that the block is a newly-created paperweight,
> check the freeze plug located under that driver side exhaust manifold.
> They're designed to pop out under freeze conditions and absorb the
> expansion, rather than cracking said block.  Good luck!
>
>
> Mike Evans
> Richland, MI
> evans1@net-link.net
>
You mean this actually happens, of all the 3 blocks I've seen bust (1
chev, 2 ford) the plug came out, and the block cracked!  I may still be
in bussiness,  Thanx.. I'll check




EA~

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:18:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

>This weekend (wether permiting of course) I am planing to strip my uncle's
>old 1980 Custom Cruiser.
[...]
>I have an 81' Delta 88 4-door.  What I am particularly interested in is
>getting his PW and if possible PD.

Gee, is that all?  :-)

I think it's do-able, but you have a lot of busywork ahead of you.
At least you have the leisure of taking as much time as you need to
extract parts from the donor car, right? We talked this over here not
too long ago, maybe a month or so, if you want to try ransacking the
archives. Short list of items to consider:

- -- Door panels: Need to transfer? Manual & electric controls in same
location or not?
- -- Window regulators (the mechanical assemblies that raise and lower
the glass): Same for mechanical & electric on your car?
- -- Wiring harness for switchgear and motors: All of it. There is a lot
of it. It runs from every door (Duh :-) up to and under the dash. Don't
forget the unique hardware bits like the rubber boots enclosing the
harness where it jumps the gap to each door, and any extra access panels
or braces used to support the power mechanisms in each door
- -- Circuit breaker and related fittings (if the recipient car fusebox
doesn't already have the hardware -- I kind of think it will, in which
case you'd just plug in the circuit breaker itself)
- -- Ditto, for power locks.

Have fun, and report back afterwards; this subject comes up from time
to time...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:25:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Cruise Help

First, the switch to disengage when you brake is a vacumn switch on the
brake, completely unelectrical (on mine, '76 and up till at least '83)

I know that a '? to '78 at least brain box has only two wires, one when
the switch is turned on, and one for 'coast'  2 switches of any kind will
work just fine (I put cruise onto a non-cruise cutlass and have no
patience to put that switch into the steering column).  What year is this
car?  If it's newer, and you JUST want the basics, try 'jimmying' in an
older 'brain box'!  Let me know if this helps!




EA~

On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, IT wrote:

> I checked to see if the wires are giving power to the main cruise control
> unit (whatever it is called).  They do, but the cruise still won't engage.
> Vacum test came out NORMAL.  I don't know what else could be the problem.
> Also, if I decide to rewire the cruise (original wires though working I
> can't trust.  I think they once had a short and even smoke coming from them
> with the previous owner) how difficlut could it be?  From what I have seen,
> there is four wires.  All I would want is ON/OFF and COAST, with of course,
> disengagment with the tap on the brake.  If anyone has ever done this or
> has any thoughs on it, anything would help before I decide to go on with
> the process.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:30:28 -0300
Subject: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions

I recently acquired a 1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible.  Nice solid body with
a bit of Texas rust and a few dents and pings, nothing a good paint job won't
take care of.  Judging by the build sheet, the car is about 80% original.
 The previous owner added a 442 bumper and exhaust, and replaced the hubcaps
with SS II wheels.  The interior is still all original, including radio (I've
never seen that before).  The only thing missing off the car are the original
floor mats and the trunk lamp, but I should be able to take those off of my
rapidly deteriorating '68.  But these are not things I need to know.  What I
do need to know are these things:

1)  What were the color options available on a convertible top in 1970?  I
have always been under the assumption that the choices were black, white, and
saddle, but someone else has told me GM also offered blue and gold.  And how
do I determine what color top the car came with from the build sheet?  Also,
all well liners were black to match the interior padding on the top, correct?

2)  Is there a way to tell the original interior colors from the build sheet?
 I need to know this for replacement of seats and carpeting.

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:29:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?

Thomas Martin wrote:
>
> In 1991, I bought a 76 Custom Cruiser ($300) for the supposedly rebuilt
> 455.  Cool, Drop in my 80 Turbo T/A.  Well, drove it home, nearly no
> brakes, leaking gas tank, she needed help.  Ran pretty good, considering
> when I opened the hood the distributor was shaking opposite the engine
> shake!  No bolt in it!  Well, got a line on a 70 Pontiac Hearse with a
> 455, 54K miles.  Saw it, bought that too.  I stored the wagon for a
> parts car.  A friend of mine keep up the storage bills for me, so he
> could get some parts off of it before it got scrapped, and eventually I
> gave the whole car to him.  I was in the Military so I just didn't have
> the time or way to get the car.
>
> Well, he kept it out back for a year or so and then pulled the 455 and
> THM 400 and sold it for $150.
>
> Come to find out, the intake and heads were typical 1976.  The block,
> was a 68, forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons, 4 Bolt Mains.  Was
> this a W30 that I GAVE away?!?  I could just kill myself when he told
> me.  They guy who got it just had to rub it in!
>
> Oh well.  I lost out on that one!!!!
>
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass 307

Tom,

I have never heard of an Olds motor having 4-bolt mains.  This would be
almost impossible without MAJOR block reconfiguring/machining.  The cost
wouldn't be worth it.  Forged crank?  Possible.  Forged pistons?
Aftermarket, I'll bet.  As far as I know, Olds used cast pistons in all
the W-30 engines, and if it was an original 68 455, then it couldn't
have been a W-30 because the 455 W-30 engine did not exist until the 70
model year.  While it is possible all these parts were in the engine, I
seriously doubt that it was factory.  However, the forged crank alone is
worth way more than what was paid for the engine.  Major loss?  Any loss
of a fine 455 Olds is a major loss in my book, but I would definitely
consider losing that forged crank a MAJOR loss.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:34:40 -0300
Subject: Re: (no subject)

OL>At 09:59 AM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
OL>>
OL>>OL>Not likely directly, as the HEI is less power consumptive than the
point OL>>OL>set up was. OL>> OL>>OL>Change to a new model alternator w/solid
state regulator, either interna OL>>OL>external; on this list the greatest
play has been for the internal type, OL>>OL>which would require an appropiate
alternator. OL>> OL>>OL>The Wiz OL>> OL>> OL>>The hei uses more energy than
points (high energy = more power OL>>consumption).I switched a '72 442 I use
to have to hei it made a very OL>>noticeable improvement over points.You need
to make sure that your coil OL>>power lead is supplying a least 12 volts
otherwise you'll over work the OL>>coil and ruin it, also make sure it's a
heavy enough gauge wire to OL>>handle the extra voltage going through it. OL>>
OL>> OL>>Daren OL>> OL>>

OL>Next month in GED class we are going to review the electrical wiring we
went OL>over last time.  Funny thing that Miss Fortran (my teacher) said that
if you OL>double the voltage, that the amperage falls by 50% and that you can
use OL>SUBSTANTIALLY smaller wire with the increased voltages...  ie, voltage
goes OL>up, wire size goes down; everything else remaining the same.  I can't
wait OL>until we get to fuze box replacment with the new zinc pennies, instead
of OL>the copper ones.

OL>Did she lie to me?

OL>After all, if I get my GED I'll be promoted to 2nd assistant fry cook at my
OL>job at McDonalds, and a new name badge from Ronald himself.

OL>The Wiz


Did I miss something because I don't remember saying anything about
doubling the voltage. Compare the the power wire to the coil on an hei
to a points distributor. If Miss Fortran has taught you what larger
means, you should notice that the hei has a larger wire than points does
from the factory. I doubt GM would spend the money for a heavier wire if
they didn't have to.

Here's the specs for msd's msd 5 and 8 ignition systems, from msd.



          operating    operating
            voltage      amp. max.
msd 5     12                6

msd 8     12               36


If I understand what you and Miss Fortran is  saying right. Then the msd
8 box should operate on only 2 volts since it has 6 times the amps the
msd 5 has or should the msd 5 use 72 volts?

I could be wrong, so does any body else have an opinion?


Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:44:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz

OL>At 08:57 PM 4/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
OL>>The exaust crossover passage in the intake manafold is cracked and leaking
OL>>exaust directly into the crankcase.
OL>>Walter
OL>>

OL>Hey, there's ~two~ that match my thoughts (and hopes) now.  I don't like
the OL>thought of the word "cracked" used in conjunction with the word
"manifold." OL>I prefer to use the word "blown" with the word "gasket."  It
has a much more OL>inexpensive sound.  Of course ~both~ still sound cheaper
than "rings."  One OL>can still hope...


If the air (or what ever it is) coming out of the motor smells like
exhaust then this would be my guess.

Daren

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:47:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Rocker Questions

You Wrote:

     Since then, I have been trying to make an adjustable pushrod tool so
that I can atleast find out why my valve train is so noisy. I think the
pushrod length needs to be longer but how much longer not sure, that's
were the pushrod tool come in. I will let the list know when I'm done
making the tool. It might be handy and possibly save me from buying the
kit. All I may just need is longer pushrods.

*************************
Why not just buy and use the adjustable pushrods that Mondello sells? I have
a set in my 72 455 (as well as Mondello's 22-25 cam) and after many miles
and 5500 RPM bursts they are doing fine.

John Pajak     DR OLDS
Lexington Park, Maryland

72 442 W30 Convertible (with adjustable pushrods!)

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:46:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>
> On Tue, 8 Apr 1997 evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
>
> > >Actually, before you decide that the block is a newly-created
paperweight, > > check the freeze plug located under that driver side exhaust
manifold. > > They're designed to pop out under freeze conditions and absorb
the > > expansion, rather than cracking said block.  Good luck! > > > > > >
Mike Evans > > Richland, MI > > evans1@net-link.net > > > You mean this
actually happens, of all the 3 blocks I've seen bust (1 > chev, 2 ford) the
plug came out, and the block cracked!  I may still be > in bussiness,  Thanx..
I'll check > > EA~

Can I put my 2 cents in?  The so called "freeze plugs" were for sealing
the block after casting.  They weren't designed to be used as  relief
valves.  However, if you are lucky, this is what you would want them to
do.  To properly seal these plugs, you usually end up putting sealer
around the edge, and they have to be "hammered" in place.  Hardly
trustworthy.  As the water freezes, it expands, as we all know, and the
pressure is exerted throughout the entire surface inside the block
around the frozen area.  If the plugs are new, there's a good
possibility they would pop out, but if they are rusty inside, they may
have fused themselves to the block.  And we all know how that ends up.

Even if the plug pops, there are other crevices where the "expansion"
can take its toll. Especially if the water is frozen throughout the
block.  Once that happens, then the worst nightmare occurs.

Just my 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:54:00 -0300
Subject: RE: Ram Air Hood

Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
changed the front tongue?

******************************
It fits but a GM OAI hood won't latch in the center. The 69 hood uses a pin
whereas the 70 hood has a rectangular hole. You might be able to swap the
core support for a 70 (looks like it might work but not sure). Aftermarket
OAI hoods don't latch in the center at all and are held down only by the
outboard pins.

John Pajak     DR OLDS
Lexington Park, Maryland

------------------------------

From: "Greg Sage" <tootall@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 12:09:22 -0300
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 12:04:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions

Kabootski@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I recently acquired a 1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible.  Nice solid body
with > a bit of Texas rust and a few dents and pings, nothing a good paint job
won't > take care of.  Judging by the build sheet, the car is about 80%
original. >  The previous owner added a 442 bumper and exhaust, and replaced
the hubcaps > with SS II wheels.  The interior is still all original,
including radio (I've > never seen that before).  The only thing missing off
the car are the original > floor mats and the trunk lamp, but I should be able
to take those off of my > rapidly deteriorating '68.  But these are not things
I need to know.  What I > do need to know are these things: > > 1)  What were
the color options available on a convertible top in 1970?  I > have always
been under the assumption that the choices were black, white, and > saddle,
but someone else has told me GM also offered blue and gold.  And how > do I
determine what color top the car came with from the build sheet?  Also, > all
well liners were black to match the interior padding on the top, correct? > >
2)  Is there a way to tell the original interior colors from the build sheet? >
I need to know this for replacement of seats and carpeting.

Another chance for my 2 cents!

Yes, as far as I know, a blue top did exist.  I once looked at a triple
blue, all original supreme conv. that some old guy had and was selling.
While I didn't buy the car, the literature he had with it said the top
was supposed to be blue.  If that was not factory, then it could have
been dealer installed.  The gold???  I'm not sure.  Look at the "PNT"
color code, for the upper color.  Two sets of numbers/letters should
appear.  The first set is lower body color, the second set is upper, or
fabric color.  This should be a double letter.  I'm not sure about 70's,
but the 71 colors were AA-white, BB-black, EE-sandalwood, and GG-green.
The CC-blue, was available in 71 for the only the vinyl top (hard top)

As for the interior colors, look at your trim code "TR" on the cowl
tag.  This should give you the main interior color.  The build sheet
should also have trim color codes.  I don't have a listing for all the
trim codes, so you will have to see what yours is. Then check back to
the postings.  I'm sure someone can help.

Good luck.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:57:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

At 10:18 AM 4/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>This weekend (wether permiting of course) I am planing to strip my uncle's
>>old 1980 Custom Cruiser.
>[...]
>>I have an 81' Delta 88 4-door.  What I am particularly interested in is
>>getting his PW and if possible PD.

Hmmm, after reading all the suggestions, something occurred to me; couldn't
you just swap the entire set of doors, and have them painted to match your
car? That'd kill a whole *flock* of birds...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 13:08:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

Since we're mentioning worst losses, mine was probably the 80k mile 1988
front-drive Cutlass that I was offered by the local Dodge dealer for
$1500 because it wasn't running... their mechanic thought it was just fuel
pump.  I was scared so didn't buy it.  Later on, I found out it WAS just
the fuel pump.  Oh yeah, it had the 3.8l V6 and _A FIVE SPEED MANUAL_
transmission.

On another topic, what was the best buy you ever made?  Mine was probably
the 1974 Delta 88 that had 60,000 miles on it.  I paid $250 for it, and
even though I was hit and the car wrecked, the motor lives on in my '84
cutlass Supreme (that I only paid $150 for).  Actually, I only paid $180
for my '72 Mercury Marquis with 429 too.  When I think about it, I've
never paid more than $300 for a car, ever, and I've had quite a few cars
(the '80 Rover was given to me by my father for my 18th b-day).

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
'84 Cutlass Supreme (350, 4bbl. TH375, 70k miles)

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 12:29:28 -0300
Subject: WTB: 455 engine in Wash. D.C. area

My '71 Olds just lost its 350 small block (note: use oil restrictors when
using a high volume oil pump at 5000 rpms, my rods didn't like it)

I need to find a good 455 big block for it.  I would prefer a running
1970 engine, but I can't be too picky.  I would even take one that needs
rebuilding.  The earlier the better, but I will consider a later model
engine.

I live in Northern Virginia, but anywhere withing an hour of me will work
(D.C., Maryland, etc.)

email me at gzimmerm@runet.edu

greg

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 12:42:27 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks

     Yes, you are correct.  The Imperial is the ONLY car banned from
     demolition derbies.

     Kinda makes me feel a bit safer on the road....


     Peter G. Teubel

     pteubel@safety1st.com
     '51 98 (50% complete....currently a driveway ornament)
     '52 Plymouth (Project-in-waiting....driveway ornament ª2)
     '73 Imperial (Coming soon...known as USS Enterprise)
     '82 98 (Also known as the USS Nimitz)
     '84 C10 P-up (junkyard hauler)
     '86 Ciera (Wife's car)
     '88 Subaru Turbo (Distainful communter vehicle that actually gets out
                       of its own way)



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: New Aquisition!/ChryCo Tanks
Author:  James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu> at imail Date:
4/8/97 8:57 PM


My grandfather used to have a Chrysler Imperial; might even have been a
'73.  Those things ARE tanks!  I think the Abrams is actually built on an
Imperial chassis, isn't it?
Seriously, though, I heard those things were actually outlawed from many
demolition derbies.

I think I'm one of those "amateur" theologians.  What's an amateur
theologian anyway... Dr. Bob, maybe you could answer that one.

OLDS CONTENT:
One of these days I hope to acquire a Classic Olds.

   Jim Townsend

   '90 Calais



------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 05:36:45 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming

     Aren't the limited slip units available in the GM performance parts
     catalog?  I could have swore I saw them there last time I looked
     through it, although I admit I just sorta skimmed the Quad-4 section
     since there's nothing there for me.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________

     I've done some research on this transaxle, and it's not like most of
     them it uses worm gears to tranfer the power to the wheels under
     various weather conditions and in times of launching.

------------------------------

From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@wpo-smtp-gate.tamu.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 12:58:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Hood hinge help

Wiz wrote:
2. What broke on the hinge?  The spring and the pivot are all that I've ever
seen go bad.  A bolt will work for the pivot at least temporarily, and I
expect that there are other hood springs that will work well, if that's the
culprit.
____________

Well I'm not to terribly sure.  I havn't had the guts to try and open the hood
again (until I need to) From the quick look I had, it looked like the spring
was all still put togather, but the whole hinge was bent pointed more
towards the center of the hood than the front which makes it difficult to
open and impossible to close all the way (the corner of the hood is
sticking up about a half inch or so).  Bill Culp made a few replacement
suggestions also, so I'm going to attempt to track any of those down.  If
nothing else, then I'll take a good long look when I get the engine worked
on this weekend (it's dripping oil terribly).  One last thing, what are a few
oil options for the car my brother was putting the heaviest oil in, mostly so
it wouldn't drip out as fast :\  Any suggestions once the drip is fixed?

::tail fluffs::
Laura
aka ShadowFox

66 Delta 88

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 12:59:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

At 12:08 PM 4/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>On another topic, what was the best buy you ever made?  Mine was probably
>the 1974 Delta 88 that had 60,000 miles on it.  I paid $250 for it, and

Hmmm, apart from the free cars I've come across, the best *buy* I've ever
made was a 45,000 mile '68 Caprice for $30. After the rear axle fell out
(long story), I sold the 327/Powerglide combo for $150. After that would be
the $100 '69 Toro that I now have, followed by the $300 55,000 mile '68 Toro
I've recently acquired. Come to think of it, of the five cars that I
currently have, two were free and the other three cost a total of $900
(needless to say, I've got quite a bit more than that invested in them by
now...).

Most I ever paid for a car (ok, aside from a new econobox we bought shortly
after we were married; I've since reformed my ways!) would be $1500 for a
17,000 mile '60 Catalina. Sold it for the same amount so that I could go off
to graduate school.

Come to think of it, the only cars I own that I've paid any kind of money
for are my Oldsmobiles; the non-Oldses were the free ones. So I do have my
priorities straight.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:17:03 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions

Blue was definitely a top color for 1970.  My local Olds dealer still has a
1970 Cutlass Convertible with the original top.

Robb Yasczakvjtd@grove.iup.edu

1969 Cutlass S Conver.
1969 442
1976 442
1985 Cutlass Supreme
1987 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 13:04:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

At 03:03 AM 4/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>there any specific problems, etc.?  Same for power doors.  Also, since it
>has a 350, while I have a 307, are there any other parts that I should
>consider for performance upgrade (ex. Carb if possible) other then the
>motor itself.  I would love to transplant a 350 into my olds, however his
>motor is old and worn, I am broke so would have no money to work on it.

Oh, don't let that 350 get away from you. Rent a cherry-picker (~$30) and
pull it out for a rebuild at a later date. Nothing you could do to your 307
would improve performance as much as moving to the 350 engine. Save it for
when you can afford a rebuild (actually, rebuild kits run around $350-$400,
so it's not a *huge* fortune; just watch the machining costs), and you'll be
$$$ ahead. You can partially disassemble it so that it doesn't take up that
much room in the corner of the garage (or shed, or basement, or hall closet,
or under the kitchen table...)

Seriously, you can cut the hoses and wires (only if need be; try to save
what you can), undo 11 bolts, and have that motor out of there in no time.
You'll regret it if you don't!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 13:43:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 1973  442 Cutlass

>Everywhere I look, I saw alot of information for the 442's up to 1972.
>
>I have a 1973 442 and I wonder where can I get info, manuals, decal
>information, etc. for my car.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Drew
>
>
For shop and owners manuals, try Automotive Information Clearinghouse in La
Mesa, CA.
 They set me up with a factory shop manual, body manual and owners manual
for my '72 Vista Cruiser.  You can reach them at (619) 447-7200 or the 800
number advertised in Hemmings every month.

Erik

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 15:40:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood

Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil wrote:
>
> Can anybody tell me if the 70-72 ram air hoods would fit a 69 442, if I
> changed the front tongue?
>
> ******************************
> It fits but a GM OAI hood won't latch in the center. The 69 hood uses a pin
> whereas the 70 hood has a rectangular hole. You might be able to swap the
> core support for a 70 (looks like it might work but not sure). Aftermarket
> OAI hoods don't latch in the center at all and are held down only by the
> outboard pins.
>
> John Pajak     DR OLDS
> Lexington Park, Maryland

What about the air cleaner?  I've been told the air cleaner dosen't clear
the hood.  Can I use O.A.I. set up?

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:04:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds in Hot-Rod (a Vista Cruiser no less!)

In a message dated 97-04-09 09:36:14 EDT, you write:

<< A detailing article?  Cool.  Did they mention that the V-C would make a
 really cool car if it had a $10,000 deep gloss clearcoat paint job, a set of
 custom boyd wheels, recaro seats, and a 500 cubic inch blueprinted chubby
 crate motor?  At least they didn't hack the body off with torches like that
 poor 'ol catalina last month.  It was a relatively rust-free two-door no
 less.  All that to prove that if you drop weight by a few thousand pounds
 you'll dramatically improve quarter-mile performance.  They proved that when
 the writers all piled their fat a**es into the car along with their tools
 and managed some pathetic quarter mile time with a curb weight of 6000 lb.
 (I think they still made it in under still under 20 seconds)....But I'm not
 bitter.

 They really blew it when they sent the subscription renewal notice the same
 week that thet published the pontihack article.

 <Rant mode off>

 Greg "is the coffee ready yet?" Pruett >>

Hmmm... another great "repeat" article.  I don't subscribe to lot of
magazines since they do this (every so often, they dig out an old article,
re-do a few things (pics., numbers, etc.) and re-print it.  They did the same
thing to an old Caddy a few years back (almost 10 I'd guess, uggghhhhh, has
it been that long...), and came up with the same thing.  If fact, it sounds
alot alike.  First run, load it up with everything (they even had a surfboard
tied to the top).  After all was said and done, they had nothing more than
floorboards, motor, seat, and no panels, and a set of 10 in. tires on the
back.  Turned into the 10's if I remember right, after all was said and done.

It's so nice they have the time to "cut-up" these old cars.  Just re-print
the old article, and not waste the car.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:10:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Guess what I found out?

In a message dated 97-04-09 12:09:26 EDT, you write:

<< Can I put my 2 cents in?  The so called "freeze plugs" were for sealing
 the block after casting.  They weren't designed to be used as  relief
 valves.  However, if you are lucky, this is what you would want them to
 do.  To properly seal these plugs, you usually end up putting sealer
 around the edge, and they have to be "hammered" in place.  Hardly
 trustworthy.  As the water freezes, it expands, as we all know, and the
 pressure is exerted throughout the entire surface inside the block
 around the frozen area.  If the plugs are new, there's a good
 possibility they would pop out, but if they are rusty inside, they may
 have fused themselves to the block.  And we all know how that ends up. >>

I've never used sealant on my freeze plugs, and I've heard somewhere else
(besides my own expirience) that you don't need to do this.  As for the
plugs, they will help in "mild" freezing conditions, but if a complete freeze
of the block heppens, you'll have alot of problems, including the fact that
it could stretch the head bolts (expansion of frozen fluids, pushing the
heads up), crack the heads, and block.  It would be advised to have the block
checked if things freeze solid.  Or just use it as a reason to make that
"major" engine upgrade you've always wanted.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 13:22:39 -0300
Subject: Re: a lot of blown engines

From: Michael Baugher on 04/09/97 11:22 AM

     As I read my e-mail each day, I see a lot of messages
     from people looking for new engines, usually because
     they've blown theirs at high rpms.

     Treat your engine with a little respect!  It's an
     Oldsmobile, but it's not indestructible!

     These engines are in limited supply and one day there will
     be no more of them to locate!

     Take care of what you've got....it won't be around forever.

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:29:22 -0300
Subject: Re: love me tender.....

Sorry to take up space, and, maybe I shouldn't ask but...
What's a "love me tender" signal flasher?

Just curious!!!


       Jim Townsend

On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:

> Andy- Whitney *does* carry that 'love me tender' turn signal flasher.
> I saw it in my catalog and they want $8.99 for that tasteless piece of
trash. > > > > > > > >
============================================================================= >
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan.. >
K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver) >         65 El Camino..327/300,
black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car) >         95 Plymouth Neon
sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car) >         95 Dodge Ram 2500hd
4x4..v-10..(company truck) >
============================================================================= >
 >

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 17:42:30 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject whatsoever

Daren@qconline.com wrote:
>
> The Wiz wrote:

> > Funny thing that Miss Fortran (my teacher) said that if you double
> > the voltage, that the amperage falls by 50% and that you can use
> > SUBSTANTIALLY smaller wire with the increased voltages...  ie,
> > voltage goes up, wire size goes down; everything else remaining the
> > same.
>
> If I understand what you and Miss Fortran is  saying right. Then the
> msd 8 box should operate on only 2 volts since it has 6 times the amps
> the msd 5 has or should the msd 5 use 72 volts?
>
> I could be wrong, so does any body else have an opinion?

Bzzzt!  Over simplifications alert!

Ohm's Law does have an opinion on this.  Current is equal to the voltage
divided by the resistance: I = E/R.  If you double the voltage and
*everything*else*stayed*the*same*, the current would also double.  As in
2I = 2E/I.

I think what was being refered to was not current but work, measured in
watts.  It is calculated as power = current times voltage or P = I x E.
If you doubled the voltage but cut the current in half, you would still
be able to produce the same abount of work: P = .5I x 2E.  Referring back
to the earlier discussion of 110v vs 220 VAC, a device operating on the
higher voltage will be able to do the same amount of WORK at a lower
current (and smaller wire) than a device operating on the lower voltage.

The larger current draw of the MSD8 is no doubt due to a higher output
and more complicated (and less efficient) electronics.

Don't quit the day job, Wiz!   ;)

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:43:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Any W-41 Owners out there? Or interested in becoming

Yes, these limited-slip units are available thru GM Perf Parts but they
cost A LOT!  I looked into it at my local Olds dealer and they wanted
almost 1,500 bucks for it!  The local AutoZone could get it for 1,100, and
that's cuz the manager knew a guy at some Chevy dealer somewhere that
would give it to him at a reduced rate. (maybe wholesale or something)

If one of these units could be found at a junkyard, I'm sure it would cost
much less than what GM wants for it.

        Jim Townsend

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª602
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