To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #671


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 13 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 671

Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re[2]: Car Craft Readers letters
Re: Exhausting Possibilities
Re: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
optional reading
1954 oldsmobile
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: '71W30 stripes
Re: Re[2]: Car Craft Readers letters
Re: 307 vs 350 swap
Re: THEFT PROTECTION

RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Save This One From Death
Re: Differential ID
1977 Olds 442 TRADE
Oh My 442
Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re: 307 vs 350 swap
Re: Hot Rot Mag tour
Re: 1954 oldsmobile
Rally Tach
Re: 307 vs 350 swap
RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Auto trans speedo gear
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance /Daren response
Big Block Manifold (more Q's)
Re: Wildwood NJ car show
Re: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: Re[2]: Saved From Demolition Derby
Re: Update: Head Gaskets
Re: 307 vs 350 swap
Intake  Manifolds
64 CUTLASS 2DR HT
Forged 455 crank for sale
Re: Hot Rot Mag tour
(no subject)
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Re: 307 vs 350 swap
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Hemming's Web Site
Hood adjustment
Re: Hot Rot Mag tour
Offy dual port Was: 307 vs 350 swap
Re: Differential ID
Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re: SUSPENSION 73 Delta 88
Re: Big Block Intake Manifold ('76 vintage)
Re: Original 72 Cutlass wheels

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Travis Adams <cashmore@imt.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:01:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

Blaines wrote:
>
> <snip>
> > It got me thinking if we and any other Olds fans we know
> > start writing these types of mags demanding more Olds maybe they will
> > start printing more Olds articles. Why stop there we could also contact
> > after market manufactures. I wouldn't mind having a set of Edelbrock
> > aluminum heads on my 425.
> >
> >
> > Daren
> >
> > O.C.A. ª23571
> > daren@qconline.com
> >
> > P.S. The new Popular Hot Rodding has a '67? Cutlass body on the cover!
> > Very nice looking, well at least what's there.Hav'ta send them a letter
> > asking when there'll be an article about the car.
>
> Classic Auto Restorer magazine just did a great how-to article about
> detailing a '66? 442 chassis.  You can't buy CAR at the newstand, so if
> you're not subscribed, you're S.O.L.  But, I may be able to get the whole
> article scanned in and on a web page in about 3 weeks.  Let me know if
> anyone is interested...
>
> -Blaine
> '72 Cutlass Supreme
> '66 Cutlass Convertible coming soon...
Very interested.  How do I subscribe though?

Travis
65 442

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:04:44 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Car Craft Readers letters

- -Blaine wrote:

...Classic Auto Restorer magazine just did a great how-to article about
detailing a '66? 442 chassis.  You can't buy CAR at the newstand, so if
you're not subscribed, you're S.O.L.  But, I may be able to get the whole
article scanned in and on a web page in about 3 weeks.  Let me know if
anyone is interested...

          That wouldn't be the same 66-67 442 chassis detail article
          in the latest issue of Muscle Car Review, would it?  Are the
          two magazines published by the same company?

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 13:56:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting Possibilities

Jeff,
With you being in Chicago, have you tried contacting Muscle Tones in
Naperville.  I'm almost positive that's their name.  I don't have a number
handy (I'm at work) but about three years ago I ran into them at US41
Dragway in Morrocco, IN and grabbed some literature.  Might be worth a try
if they are still in business as they advertised exhaust systems for muscle
cars.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com
or
csmetana@disc.sony.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 16:38:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass electrical problem- help

> Heres a good one.. My father in laws 60k mile 85 Cutalss Ciera stalled w/
a
> dea d battery while driving the other day. I replaced the battery and the
> offending alternator(so I thought). I start it and still no charge. No
> indicator lamp in the dash either. I replased that bulb(now it works) but
> still no charge. Went back to the store and got a new alternator.
Nothing.
> UNTIL I rev it to 3000 rpm and then charging snaps on and charges fine
from
> then on. Shut off the key and no until I rev to 3000 rpm. Weird. Does the
ECM
> control the charging? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hmmmmmm....was the alternator used or rebuilt?  My friend bought a rebuilt
one recently for his D*dge D*rt and it was merely sandblasted, not really
REBUILT!  It wouldn't charge under 3000-4000 rpm, and it was all hot and
burnt up.  So he bought a core alternator from the junkyard and rebuilt it
himself.  Works fine ever since...

my $.02

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 16:40:29 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

- ----------
> From: mplowe@pepco.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: THEFT PROTECTION
> Date: Monday, May 12, 1997 6:38 AM
>
>
> I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.  I
know
> they can always just tow it but I would like to made it difficult for an
> amateur.  What are the rest of you using?

Summit sells some nice Jacobs Electronics gadgets....one of those might
work well for you.  Around $150-200 if I remember right.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Curt Salada <csalada@astea.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:05:07 -0300
Subject: optional reading

>
>From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
>Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 19:55:15 -0300
>Subject: ATTENTION All '70 442 owners
>
>On a '70 442 455CI 4 speed w/ Ram/Air hood does the air filter need a
>ROCKET 455 decal on the top of the air cleaner to be original?  Does
>anybody have one on the top of the air cleaner? Was there an option to
>get one?

No, and Not anyone with an unadulterated air cleaner, and No.

>------------------------------
>
>From: "rick&trudi" <truric@imag.net>
>Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 02:06:48 -0300
>Subject: vin codes and cowl tags
>
>where can i find the cowl tag codes to find out if my 72 442 is a true 442
>just bought it last week has been sitting for 5 years all the oppitions are
>there but im noy tottaly convinced
>
If all the options are truly there, then you're in luck, because 4-4-2
was just an *option* in 1972.  I believe the VIN won't validate or
invalidate this car's authenticity.  Look for the build sheet, which
will hopefully include option W29, the 4-4-2 Appearance and Handling
Package.  I found the build sheet for my car behind one of the
windshield pillars; many others have reported finding them under the
rear seat.

The 4-4-2 had a short life as a full-fledged model designation -- from
1968 to 1971.  Before and after this period, the 4-4-2 was an option
package available on various models.  As far as I know, no information
about this option will appear on the cowl.

Curt Salada
1971 Cutlass for sale -- http://scils.rutgers.edu/~djcohen/curt/olds

------------------------------

From: "Patrick J. DeVoir" <pddev@wtp.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:09:45 -0300
Subject: 1954 oldsmobile

looking for license plate 1954 montana "treasure state" richland county.
this is for a 54olds bought and restore in montana.

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:49:47 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

> > I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.  I
> know
> > they can always just tow it but I would like to made it difficult for
an
> > amateur.  What are the rest of you using?
>
> Summit sells some nice Jacobs Electronics gadgets....one of those might
> work well for you.  Around $150-200 if I remember right.

Or you can just do what my dad claims to have done...  Rig up an extra
battery and ignition coil in the trunk and hook it to the body of the car,
using a remote to turn it on and off.  Of course, that's probably not such
a good idea these days, even if it would work.  Too many sue-crazy people
out there.  You'd prolly give the thief what he deserved, then end up in
court being sued by him...

------------------------------

From: BBraden@qualitybio.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 18:02:03 -0300
Subject: Re: '71W30 stripes


     >From: "bemet" <bemet@ix.netcom.com>
     >Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 21:33:36 -0300
     >Subject: Re: '71W30 stripes

     >Thanks to both  MRothe and KurtH for the answers to my question. I'll
     >check with the body shop painter on whether they want to go with the
     >stripe kit.  I think the Assembly Manual shows the stripes-- so I'll
     >leave it to him.

     Having been down this road in '90 when I did a first class and
     lengthily (NOS parts etc.) restoration of the body of my '72, I
     STRONGLY recommend getting the templates.  I have not seen them or
     used them, but... after months of prep. / discussions combined with
     the factory blueprints AND accompanying enlarged pictures...

        I didn't inspect before the paint went on and my thin stripe is a
        little too wide and the curve where the wheel arch meets the main
        horizontal stripe is notched (not curved)

     This is not noticeable to 98% of the people out there and the car is
     modified, but it's one of "THOSE THINGS" that can continually annoy!

     "If you want it done right, do it yourself!!" became my new motto.

     Bob Braden
     Hockessin DE
     bbraden@qualitybio.com
     71 442
     72 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 18:15:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Car Craft Readers letters

> ...Classic Auto Restorer magazine just did a great how-to article about
> detailing a '66? 442 chassis.  You can't buy CAR at the newstand, so if
> you're not subscribed, you're S.O.L.  But, I may be able to get the whole

> article scanned in and on a web page in about 3 weeks.  Let me know if
> anyone is interested...
>
>           That wouldn't be the same 66-67 442 chassis detail article
>           in the latest issue of Muscle Car Review, would it?  Are the
>           two magazines published by the same company?
>
>           Joe Padavano
>           jpada@orbital.com

Damn!  I knew I was going to get it mixed up...  Thanks, Joe, for setting
me straight.  CAR and MCR are my two favorite magazines (I use Hot Rod for
bum-fodder in the outhouse at the cabin), and I get the two mixed up on
occaision.  At any rate, even though MCR is available at the newstand, it
is fairly hard to come by (at least around here), and I'll still be glad to
post it somewhere if anyone wants it...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 18:27:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 vs 350 swap

I put a 1970 350 in a 1988 Custom Cruiser station wagon that originally had
a 307 in it. I used the fuel pump, water pump, air pump(disconnected),
alternator, exhaust manifolds and air conditioner off the 307. I
disconnected the computer and still passed the exhaust emissions. I used a
mild cam to ensure a passing grade on with big brothers sniffer. I used
the 1970 intake manifold since it has much bigger port runners. I strongly
recommend this swap. The car is much more powerful and no one knows its a 350.
John



At 10:41 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>A friend of my father has a mid 80's Olds with a 307, after having a fun
>of bad luck with rebuilt 307's, he wants to put in a 350.  They guy
>wants hard proof that the 307 and 350 interchange.  Is there anything
>that anyone has that can "prove" it.  Appartently they guy is not a car
>buff, he may do the work himself and wants to be sure that it will work
>and he is not stuck without an engine, or with an engine that does not
>hookup well.
>
>Is there anything that would possibly not work?  His intention is look
>like a 307, and be reliable.  Emissions will be hooked up.  What will
>the EPROM need to be changed to?
>
>
>
>
+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 18:46:22 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

At 10:38 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.  I know
>they can always just tow it but I would like to made it difficult for an
>amateur.  What are the rest of you using?
>
>My hood is already very difficult to open (broken latch linkage and bent
>hinge).  I certainly can't stop someone from getting in the car, and it
>does't have a locking steering column.
>
>What I saw in the Summit catalog that looked very interesting was the Grant
>removable steering wheel system.  Does anyone have any experience with
>these.  I have the tilt column and assume I would have to use a Grant wheel
>(no, I don't want to sell my steering wheel).
>
>Thanks in advance for any help
>

I've always used an alarm system, I feel it's saved me thousands of $$$ so
far in this town.  (Only been broken into once for the Rockit (knock on
wood!) and it took five years to happen.  Nothing was gone, either, and I
feel the alarm had a major say in that.  I highly recommend alarms to
~anyone~ that values their cars, although they are not a completely secure
measure.  Nothing is, except sleeping in the car with a 44 Magnum :)

I see you browse through Summit catalogs.  I can't assume much here, but do
you ever race the car seriously?  Some companies make a keyed line-lock for
the brakes.  If you already race, this might be a really good investment.
Might be a hidden switch to control any existing front lockers, and their
keyed switch to lock up the backs?  Granted, these still can be easily
bypassed, but they'd still have to crawl under to loosen the bleeder screws,
and would still have to tow it, since it has no brakes, so it would become
an awful difficult theft for someone.  I've never seen those removable
wheels used, I don'k know if they'd be worthwile or not.  You'd probably
lose originality, I guess.  I don't know how they look with the wheel on.

The biggest thing with security systems is the attempt to slow down the
thief.  Anything that makes the car harder to steal will make it that much
less desirable than the car next to you.

One of the ~coolest~ car security items I'd ever read about (we could never
get one in, $$$.  It wouldn't work up here, anyway, most likely) was offered
by Code Alarms.  Can't remember what they called it, but if the car was
stolen, the alarm would activate the built in Mitsubishi cellular phone and
call a national locating center, and transmit the car's location in relation
to the nearest cell tower(s) by triangulation, I guess.  The center would
then call the local police and send them that direction.  I guess the phone
would constantly transmit until located, I suppose.  It looked really cool,
but we didn't have cell capabilities that were that advanced when I had
access to Code products.  Bigger cities would be great, tho.

They have the technology already (theoretically) to triangulate the position
of any cellular phone, whether calling or not.  Just being powered up
triggers a communication link between it and the tower, as I recall (could
be wrong there, it's been a while)  I remember a few years back, a story
that hit the news about a stolen car that could not be traced in that
manner, even though it was currently possible.  The police would not follow
that route unless there was a persons life in danger, such as a kidnapped
child, etc.  I don't know if the laws have been expanded since then or not.

Anyway, that's probably windy enough for this post :)  Good luck, any more
questions, thoughts, or comments, fire away :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Ira H Siegelman" <IRA_H_SIEGELMAN@vnyao.dcmdw.dla.mil>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:31:41 -0300
Subject:

     Will anyone from this list be going to the Northern/southern
     California car show and swap meet in Cambria this weekend?

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 18:46:26 -0300
Subject: RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help

At 10:44 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Frank, I had a problem with my daughter's 89 Cutless a few weeks ago that
might be the same thing. After replaceing 3 alternator's and having PEP Boys
try to fix the trouble I took the time to trace down the trouble. The small
red wire that goes from the battery to the starter and the one that goes
from the starter to the alternator was bad. They have a fuseable link on the
starter end. I replaced the fuseable links and that solved the trouble.
>

Somewhere in the late 80's or early 90's, GM switched to a computer
controlled alternator.  I don't think it applies to either of the vehicles
here, but I just don't remember off-hand.  I'll see what everyone else has
offered on this post, and think it over.  If I come up with any more logic
by then, I'll add it on :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:47:11 -0300
Subject: Save This One From Death

HEY, LET'S SAVE THIS ONE TOO!!!

I talked with the owner over the weekend - he had a buyer and a done deal, but
 then the buyer backed out after he found out it was a 4 door. They can't all
be 2 doors Cutlass'/442s/W30s. And Toros.

I talked with Steve DeNovi about this one. The owner talked to Bill Wegman of
the IVOC. Could some others call a few people to save this one? Owner says
THURSDAY is the last day he can keep it. Tow dollying a car without
engine/trans is easy - 2 guys, fairly level surface, push on, push off, no
problem.


1959 Dynamic 88, 4 door. Body complete and in good condition, some surface
rust. Interior fair, no engine/transmission, have lead to original
engine/transmission (they want $50.- for it). Must sell (moving).

$200

A. Hegeman,
(217)398-3195
a-hegem@uiuc.edu
Urbana, Illinois (150 miles south of Chicago)




David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 18:51:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Differential ID

At 10:38 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello all:
>I hope someone can help me.
>I have a '69 442 that I've been restoring and the differential looks
>like most of the pictures I've seen in publications.
>It's a limited slip differential (both tires lay rubber..hehe)
>I finally found the differential identification code.
>It is located on the differential housing, to the right of the pinion,
>(right side of casing to the right of input shaft of diff.)
>The ID letters reading vertically."BD"
>
>I looked in the '69 chassis service manual and the letters "BD",
>are not listed.
>
>What kind of differential is this (MFG)?
>What is gear ratio?


   Are you sure that it isn't a  RD  which would be a 3.07:1 anti-spin 'c'
type?

 Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:05:15 -0300
Subject: 1977 Olds 442 TRADE

I own a '77 Olds 442 with 40,000 miles on it.  It is black with white
stripes and has a 4barrel 350 with an automatic.  I am intrested in a TRADE
for an older Cutlass or 442.  Particularly between the years 1969-72.  If
you live in western PA or central PA, southwestern NY, or northeastern OHIO
and you are intrested please contact me.

Thanks,

Chris Kugler
talcarol@erie.net

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:08:53 -0300
Subject: Oh My 442

>Hello, I am new to the list, check out my homepage:


Welcome aboard, great to see another G-body fan!  Since you're new I'll
leave you alone about those Monte's :)  That's gotta be the worst wrecked
G-body I've ~ever~ seen!  Someone's ~definately~ watching over you!  Great
page, anyway!

>http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/clint_paul/zugzugs/gnwin1.html
                                            ^^^^^^^
          ZugZugs?  Any reference to Ringo Starr and Caveman by chance? :)


>Also, I have a problem with my 85 442, my fuel gauge does not work
>properly.  When I start the car it works its way up to full and stays there
>for a while, then slowly drops off, ultimately reading about a quarter
>tank lower than what is actually in the tank.  Next, my Voltmeter is
>always low too, I have checked the Alternator output with a meter
>and it's 13+ volts.

My '83 likes to do that.  I think it's in the connections between the
instrument cluster and the dash harness.  Probably a ground connection.  It
might be in the cluster's voltage regulator, as well. (I ~think~ these still
use 'em)  I used to notice if I tapped the dash, my oil pressure would go
up, and the fuel would go up, and the alternator would start showing a
charge....  Never pulled it apart, yet.  Just don't drive it enough to worry
about it yet.

Oh, don't worry, I have no need to ask why anyone would want that many cars!
(ch*vys, on the other hand... Oh that's right, I said I'd leave that alone
today :) Boy, I hope Jason L. doesn't see this; I'll ~never~ hear the end of
it!!!  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:09:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

>> P.S. The new Popular Hot Rodding has a '67? Cutlass body on the cover!
>> Very nice looking, well at least what's there.Hav'ta send them a letter
>> asking when there'll be an article about the car.
>
>Classic Auto Restorer magazine just did a great how-to article about
>detailing a '66? 442 chassis.  You can't buy CAR at the newstand, so if
>you're not subscribed, you're S.O.L.  But, I may be able to get the whole
>article scanned in and on a web page in about 3 weeks.  Let me know if
>anyone is interested...
>
Musclecar Review just did a '67 442 chassis, too.

Be careful with scanning in articles, tho.  Peterson Publishing got on my
case about all my Hot Rod and Car Craft Olds & Buick articles.  Probably was
~all~ their articles, but there weren't ~that~ many!  :(

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:18:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 vs 350 swap

At 10:41 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>A friend of my father has a mid 80's Olds with a 307, after having a fun
>of bad luck with rebuilt 307's, he wants to put in a 350.  They guy
>wants hard proof that the 307 and 350 interchange.  Is there anything
>that anyone has that can "prove" it.  Appartently they guy is not a car
>buff, he may do the work himself and wants to be sure that it will work
>and he is not stuck without an engine, or with an engine that does not
>hookup well.
>
>Is there anything that would possibly not work?  His intention is look
>like a 307, and be reliable.  Emissions will be hooked up.  What will
>the EPROM need to be changed to?
>
>I may do this swap sometime, but not for now.
>
>Thanks
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme 307
>
>
What constitutes hard proof?  That is one of the easiest engine trades that
you can possibly find, as all the differences are INSIDE the block.  All the
externals are exactly the same.  It's simply unbolt rebold an go.

Kevin were certainly address the EPROM for you.  But as for the grey iron
itself, it takes an expert to know the difference when it is installed.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:29:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Hot Rot Mag tour

At 03:31 PM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>The Hot Rod Magazine tour came through my little home town on Saturday.
>Unfortunately I was out of town and missed it. ;(  Miss Hurst Shifter,
>Linda Vaughn was supposed to be part of it.  I was hopin' to get a picture.
> Oh whell...  Maybe next time.
>

Don't worry.  She was pro'lly in a ch*vy :o


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:36:17 -0300
Subject: Re: 1954 oldsmobile

At 05:09 PM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>looking for license plate 1954 montana "treasure state" richland county.
>this is for a 54olds bought and restore in montana.
>
>


That's the Sidney area, right?  Is that where you're at?  I'm originally
from the Scobey/Wolf Point area, so I hafta take special notice on that one!
:)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:44:47 -0300
Subject: Rally Tach


Does anyone have a fully functional Rally Pak guage set for a '67 442 that
they would like to part with?

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:54:20 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 vs 350 swap

At 07:18 PM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 10:41 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>A friend of my father has a mid 80's Olds with a 307, after having a fun
>>of bad luck with rebuilt 307's, he wants to put in a 350.  They guy
>>wants hard proof that the 307 and 350 interchange.  Is there anything
>>that anyone has that can "prove" it.  Appartently they guy is not a car
>>buff, he may do the work himself and wants to be sure that it will work
>>and he is not stuck without an engine, or with an engine that does not
>>hookup well.
>>

Hard proof?  Look at the Rockit!  I've has a 260, 350, 403, 455, and 425
Olds in there (Not at the same time!) and they ~all~ bolted right up.  The
big blocks had to have modified exhaust, but that's it.  The 307 would have
fit in there right after the 260.  The only external differences in these
small blocks involves the casting numbers.  ~Trust me~ there are no bolt
holes there!  As long as the 350 he's considerring is a 350 Olds, there'll
be ~absolutely~ no mounting conflicts.  Use all the accessories from the 307
(possibly water pump, at least compare size--they had two types) and you
should have no problems.  If you want to see pictures of my engine swaps you
can check

http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/shithpns.htm

I've got the 260 on a stand.  I also have an engine compartment shot with
the 350 or 403 (I can't remember which it was.)  It probably won't offer
much visual evidence of identicality, (sp?) but it's another display that it
can and does work.



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:54:22 -0300
Subject: RE: Cutlass electrical problem- help

At 10:44 AM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Frank, I had a problem with my daughter's 89 Cutless a few weeks ago that
might be the same thing. After replaceing 3 alternator's and having PEP Boys
try to fix the trouble I took the time to trace down the trouble. The small
red wire that goes from the battery to the starter and the one that goes
from the starter to the alternator was bad. They have a fuseable link on the
starter end. I replaced the fuseable links and that solved the trouble.
>
>The alternator needs 12V appled to it for it to start charging. The battery
voltage was not getting to the alternator. You can check at the alt. for 12V.
>
>PEP Boys wanted to replace the computer, "because it controls the
alternator" they said. Not true. The basic charging system on her 89 Cutless
is the same as my 70 442. It is simple and works the same way. Hope this
helps.


OK, try this.  Do you know how to full-field this alternator?  There's a "D"
shaped hole in the back of the case.  Should be close to the two wire plug
that's on the side (I'm assuming it's the same alternator style here:)  Look
inside the hole, there should be a metal tab hooked to the internal voltage
regulator.  You'll ~hopefully~ see what I mean.  With the engine running,
insert a screwdriver, paperclip, etc into the hole, and short the terminal
to the alternator case.  This will full field the alternator, forcing full
voltage output.  (It might be wise to have the high beams and heater fan on
full, just to sink out some of the extra system voltage)  You should hear
the engine rev down a bit as the extra load is placed on it.  If you have a
voltmeter, you should be seeing around 17 Volts when you rev it up.  Idling,
you should still probably see better than 15.

Another test you can try is to externally energize the alternator.  With the
engine running, and alternator not charging, hook a test light's ground clip
to a *+* 12V source, usually the positive battery post.  Probe the (I
believe it's) brown lead going into the side of the alternator. (Next to the
red lead, that should have a constant 12V)  Does the light flicker
momentarily and the engine suddenly slow down? (i.e. did the alternator just
start charging?)  This brown wire eventually leads to the idiot light, and
this is what triggers the alternator to begin charging.  I've had this
happen to me before, but it wouldn't matter how high I revved the engine, it
just wouldn't charge at all.

Just a couple thoughts.  Good luck...



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:58:38 -0300
Subject: Auto trans speedo gear

Hi Gang,

I'm getting ready to swap the 3.08 rear end in my '68 convertible 442 for a
3.42 (non-posi) unit I had laying around.  My Service Manual says I will
need 18-37 speedometer gears with a 0.7692:1 adapter.  The gears are no
trouble: the driving gear is already an 18 and I can still get a 37 driven
gear from GM.  The problem is the adapter.  I have never actually seen one
let alone know where to get one.  The GM dealer said the part was
discontinued in 1983.  Has anyone out there seen one of these adapters?  Has
anyone got one for sale (or know where one can be bought)?

Thanks for any help,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "C. Terrence Fletke" <fletke@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:59:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance /Daren response

Daren@qconline.com wrote:
>
> OL> I found your information very useful as I am in the market for insuance
> OL>on my 56 Holliday.However, I was not able to find a phone number or an
> OL>address for your preference Hagerty. If you can help with a contact, I
> OL>would appreciate it.
> OL>Regards,
>
> OL> Terry Fletke
>
> Hagerty Classic Automobile Insurance
> P.O. Box 87
> Traverse City Mi.      49685
>
> 1-800-922-4050
>
> Daren
>
> O.C.A. ª23571
> daren@qconline.com

Thanks for the information on Haggerty. I will contact them tomorrow and
hopefully have the 56 insured shortly.

Terry Fletke

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:34:35 -0300
Subject: Big Block Manifold (more Q's)

In a message dated 97-05-12 00:03:57 EDT, you write:

>
>          What you have there is a 76 455 intake. The round device in the
>  middle of the manifold on the drivers side is the EGR vavle. (i.e.
pollution
>  control device) The 76 455's were real dogs. Hope you didn't pay much for
>  that manifold. It's worth about $20.00. It's runners are not as good as
the
>  early 70-72 manifolds. It will get the job done if all you were looking
for
>  was to put a 4 bbl on your engine.
>
>  Jim Chermack
>
>

Cool. Thanks Jim. It'll do till I can afford a Performer.

[Rend! Rip! Bend!]

That's that. Mondello's catalogue insists an adapter is necessary to put a
QJet on a Holley-ready manifold (Edelbrock) so I presume this is so for
Holley carb to QJet ready base. Yup. Holes do not match up. Jeg's wants ~$15
for the adapter and I am sure my local auto parts place will want nearly as
much. Back to manifold. I do not remember the FAQ saying anything about
poorer runners (those are the passages leading to/from the cylinder heads
right?)

Is it possible to port a manifold?

Has anyone used Mondello's intake gaskets (either the Velpoloid or the
high-density version)? How about his Gasgacinch or the other goo he peddles?

Wait. He offers the QJet->Holley base adapter for $6. Killer. Especially if
it functions equally well upside down. Might as well order some decent bolts
too. There goes the budget.

Thanks all.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:24:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Wildwood NJ car show

>Did anybody else go to the Wildwood NJ car show ovwr the weekend? Wildwood
>is a beach resort in Jersey w/ a 5 mile boardwalk.

Yup, I was there in my Olds, Frank.

I was in the white 66 with red stripes, running around all weekend with my
header dumps open. :-)

>and controlled burnout contests

Not to mention lots of "uncontrolled" burn out contests. ;-)

>Anyway there was an incredible 66 W-30 there

The only one I saw was a teal-colored 67. Was this the one you meant ?

Rich

- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:33:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass electrical problem- help

>No indicator lamp in the dash either. I replased that bulb(now it works) but
>still no charge. Went back to the store and got a new alternator. Nothing.
>UNTIL I rev it to 3000 rpm and then charging snaps on and charges fine from
>then on. Shut off the key and no until I rev to 3000 rpm. Weird.

Assuming the dash is the same type of layout/circuitry as the 86-7 Grand
Nationals, here's something to check:

There are two connectors on the back of the dash pod where the flex circuit
that splits off onto all the dash indicator lights makes contact. The dash
sort of plugs in to these connectors, but there isn't a whole lot of
contact pressure there. I've seen cases were the contacts on the flex
circuit and connector were so oxidized that there was intermittent contact
at the charging light connection  which resulted in a no-charge condition.
Cleaning the contacts with emery cloth fixed the problem right up.

The blown bulb _shouldn't_ have caused the problem; there should be a shunt
resistor in there to keep the charge going even if the bulb blows. It may
have just been a coincidence that the bulb was also bad.

FWIW, the oxidation problem seems to be more prevalent on cars that have
had internal water leaks, either from leaking t-tops or other causes.

>Does the ECM control the charging?

Nope. On an injected car, it can compensate for the effect of higher/lower
voltages on fuel pump output by shortening/lengthening the injector pulse
width, but the ECM used in cars of that vintage does not control the
charging.

Hope this helps...

Rich


- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:41:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Saved From Demolition Derby

In a message dated 97-05-12 12:55:39 EDT, you write:

> From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
>           This can also be a dangerous choice.  With our daughter
>           rapidly approaching driving age, and my suggestion of a used
>           car which would need some work (not to mention a car on
>           which one would not notice a few additional dings), my wife
>           launched into the "I won't have my daughter driving a car
>           which is continually going to break down on her late at
>           night, yada, yada, yada..."  :(

There is a better rebuttal. A well maintained machine is how much less likely
to break down. She is graduating, right? Welcome her to the wonderful world
of responsible Oldsmobiling.



Besides, the more time she spends in the garage is less time she spends on
the telephone!

(Sorry if that was out of line....)


Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@spoiler.interaccess.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 21:45:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Update: Head Gaskets

Dustin Cross wrote:
>
> On Mon, 12 May 1997, Matthew Mayer wrote:
> > >
> > hmmmm...dropped the car off this morning.  Said I need rocker cover
> > gaskets (big surprise...)  but the weird part was he said that the
<snip>
>
> $234 to change valve cover gaskets?
>
> next time you need that done LET ME KNOW!


How far from Chicago are you??  :-)  Here in the land of $48.00 an hour
labor (I know that 220 is still 4+ hours...) things add up quick.  I
probably could have done it myself, but they were REALLY bad and I don't
knwo when I would have had time to get to them...also there is the
"oops" factor of no matter how easy something seems, I can usually find
a way to **** it up good, and THEN take it in for the (now) $400
repair!  As for the hissing alternator, seems my problem description
wasn't communicated properly as I only heard the hissing when the engine
was OFF--kinda makes it REAL hard for that one to be the
alternator....oh well so ends the saga...thanks for the input guys!  I
do have a few more interesting problems with the 307 that I will drop on
you when I get time or the list traffic gets slow...
- --
- ---Matt
'86 442
- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
remove the "spoiler" for replies |
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:13:45 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 vs 350 swap

I've done the swap--everything bolts up and it runs.  The only difference
comes in with 7A heads.  These have much smaller ports than earlier heads.  I
know for sure that 5A heads have the large ports.  I have seen a lot of 5A
heads on early 80s 307s.

My swap runs well WITH THE EXCEPTION of 45-65 MPH in overdrive and lock-up.
There is a miss that clears up usually about 60 MPH.  I believe it is a lean
condition created by a combination of the computer (read that GM) trying to
get the C.A.F.E. ratings up AND the larger port size of the 350 (77 Cutlass)
intake manifold.  I believe I have one or two cyllinders that won't fill at
these low engine speeds.

Does anyone have any info on after-market intake manifolds that might solve
this problem?  My first thought is the Offenhauser Dual-Port but I don't know
if they make it for Olds or if it comes with EGR.  I'm going to ask about it
tonight. Keep in touch

Pat

------------------------------

From: prlmteed@idcnet.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:13:49 -0300
Subject: Intake  Manifolds

I just finished swapping a 1980 350 into a 1987 Pontiac Wagon to replace an
ailing 307.  It runs well WITH THE EXCEPTION of 45-65 MPH in overdrive and
lock-up where I experience what appears to be a lean miss.

The 350 has ports that are about twice the size of the 307s.  I think the
small runners of the 307 manifold is what allows GM to get away with the low
engine speeds and lean conditions.  Any feedback?  Any suggestions as to a
good manifold that concentrates on low-end power that comes in some other
flavor than ch*vy?  Does Offy make the Dual Port for Olds with EGR?

Thanks

Pat

------------------------------

From: TJ64OLDS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 21:08:47 -0300
Subject: 64 CUTLASS 2DR HT

To all intrested in having a good olds .
Yes i have a 64 olds cutlass for sale.
Will make some one a proude owner.
All stock 330 v8 at factory air
I took a fisrt place in lansing 1993
I took a fisrt place oca judgeing 1997
would love to see another olds person have it. before i advertised it to the
public.
I'll let it go for $8,500 and she is well worth it.

     TERRY & JAN

------------------------------

From: Diablo <olds442@en.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 21:05:14 -0300
Subject: Forged 455 crank for sale

Would anyone be interested in purchasing a FORGED 455 crank?
If so email me at olds442@en.com

Ken
Cleveland, Oh.

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 21:27:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Hot Rot Mag tour

> Don't worry.  She was pro'lly in a ch*vy :o

She was supposed to be driving a '68 H/O.

------------------------------

From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 12:22:29 -0300
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe olds

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 21:33:05 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

On Mon, 12 May 1997 mplowe@pepco.com wrote:

>
> I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.  I know
> they can always just tow it but I would like to made it difficult for an
> amateur.  What are the rest of you using?
>
Or, if you want a cheap yet somewhat effective idea, take your
starter-feeder wire, and re-route it from the starter base through a
somewhat secret location into somewhere non-obvious (a locked glovebox)
put a switch on this wire which you can turn off.  Without knowing of the
switch or crawling underneath by the starter, it WON't start.  Or if you
do this to your distributor wire, it will turn over and not start
(leading people to belive it's broken)  This works real good on points
cars where the starter feeds points power while the starter is engaged!

The biggest trick to this is:
1)  Make it look non-obvious, so people don't bypass it
2)  Don't tell ANYBODY about it, word travels!

A little un-normal, but I think it's pretty useful!


.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 20:41:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 vs 350 swap

> like a 307, and be reliable.  Emissions will be hooked up.  What will
> the EPROM need to be changed to?

Apparently, Hypertech has a chip for '87 and older 307s.  I have no idea
if they will make one suitable for a 350 or larger engine.  I've been
looking for upgrade options for my '88 307 in anticipation of an engine
swap; it appears the '88 and up computers (ª1228330) might be different
(to accommodate a knock sensor) from the '87 and older ones.  Does anyone
have a part ª for their pre-1988 ECM?  Of course, the Ch*v crowd has far
more to choose from: the Crane EPS engine performance system is an ECM
_replacement_ that allows adjustments for idle mixture, spark advance,
knock retard characteristics, rpm limiter, etc., by remote control!  This
is said to work only for 1982-87 Ch*vy V-8 applications; I wonder how easy
it would be to adapt the ECM pinouts for a 307 harness?  I have contacted
Ron Zimmer (through everGreen performance) about burning a custom chip,
but haven't as yet heard back.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 00:47:21 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.

> I've always used an alarm system...

You betcha, Charley.  For those that may be financially handicapped,
here's my handy, dandy (that is, cheap) theft deterent:

12v going to coil --------------------+
                           +-----+    |
12v from ignition sw ------|     |    +------=
                           |     |    +------=
                           |  R  |    |
                           |  E  |    +--------- to ignition coil
                           |  L  |
                           |  A  |    +--------------------+
                           |  Y  |    |                    |
                           |     |    +-------=            |
                      +----|     |    +-------=            |
                      |    +-----+    |                    |
                      |               |                    |
                      +---------------+-----(pushbutton)---+-- ground

When the ignition is turned on, the relay stays deenegrized until a
ground is made through the pushbutton.  When it is pushed, the relay will
energize.  The lower set of contacts will maintain the ground; the upper
supplies juice to the coil.  The next time the ignition is switched off,
the relay deenergizes again -- until you push the (extremely well hidden)
switch again.

- --
    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 22:02:19 -0300
Subject: Hemming's Web Site

I do not remember anyone mentioning this before or I would not have broken in
just now.

Check out   http://www.hmn.com   !


Karl Aune


(gotta get back!)

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:05:59 -0300
Subject: Hood adjustment

Hey Gang,
The other night I was scanning the mail and saw that someone asked
about how to lower the back of the hood... did I miss a response? I'm
having the same problem. Anybody got info on how to adjust it?
TIA
David Nye

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:28:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Hot Rot Mag tour

At 09:27 PM 5/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>> Don't worry.  She was pro'lly in a ch*vy :o
>
>She was supposed to be driving a '68 H/O.
>

Uhh, I was ~trying~ to cheer ya up :(  I guess it doesn't help knowing that
Hot Rod likely won't show any part of the car in mags, either, eh?

I noticed (after reading Tom Lentz's letter in Car Craft) that there's even
less BOP's than normal (i.e. che*ys and rustangs on ~every~ article.  One
Pontiac (in a paid advertisement from Jegs, ~has~ to be a paid one....) and
an Olds FWD shell, being built to most likely accept a big block ch*vy :(

Anyone suprised!?!?


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:28:40 -0300
Subject: Offy dual port Was: 307 vs 350 swap

>
>Does anyone have any info on after-market intake manifolds that might solve
this
>problem?  My first thought is the Offenhauser Dual-Port but I don't know if
they
>make it for Olds or if it comes with EGR.  I'm going to ask about it tonight.
 >Keep in touch


I have an Offy Olds Dual Port for the small block Olds.  I loved that
intake!  Too cool!  I'm saving it for my 67 Convert's 403.  It has
provisions for an EGR adapter kit, but no EGR mounting flange.  There's a
threaded hole going into the exhaust X-over passage, and another threaded
hole under the carb.  A kit was available connecting two pipes to an EGR
Valve that plumbed into both holes.  I never needed, wanted, or purchased
the kit  :)  I figured the hole under the carb would work excellent for NOS,
but never did that, either :(

FWIW:  I ran the ECM with this setup for quite a while.  It ran good, but
never strong enough.  Still running the 260's mappings.


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:34:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Differential ID

Just for the use of others who are desperately searching for thier axle
codes.

When you said to the right of the pinion on the diff housing, did you mean
the driver's side?

Thanks

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:47:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

Blaines wrote:
>
> > ...Classic Auto Restorer magazine just did a great how-to article about
> > detailing a '66? 442 chassis.  You can't buy CAR at the newstand, so if
> > you're not subscribed, you're S.O.L.  But, I may be able to get the whole
>
> > article scanned in and on a web page in about 3 weeks.  Let me know if
> > anyone is interested...
> >
> >           That wouldn't be the same 66-67 442 chassis detail article
> >           in the latest issue of Muscle Car Review, would it?  Are the
> >           two magazines published by the same company?
> >
> >           Joe Padavano
> >           jpada@orbital.com
>
> Damn!  I knew I was going to get it mixed up...  Thanks, Joe, for setting
> me straight.  CAR and MCR are my two favorite magazines (I use Hot Rod for
> bum-fodder in the outhouse at the cabin), and I get the two mixed up on
> occaision.  At any rate, even though MCR is available at the newstand, it
> is fairly hard to come by (at least around here), and I'll still be glad to
> post it somewhere if anyone wants it...
>
> -Blaine


I'm interested put MCR on

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:52:35 -0300
Subject: Re: SUSPENSION 73 Delta 88

At 01:48 AM 5/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>i use the car quiet often but don't do any kind of racing, i just want the
>car to run properly and be comfortable.
>Do you think i have a need of one of these polygraphite (high performance)
kit >or standard bushings will do the job? They tend to say that these
>polygraphite are better, last longer, etc. is it worth it? (340$ against
210$)

For your application, the stock-type bushings would likely be a better choice.

>What about sway bars? are they a real improvement to the stability of the
car?

Yes, absolutely.

>Among shock absorbers: air, gas, heavy duty, regular. What will be the best
>for me, knowing i'd like a firm suspension?

A decent set of heavy-duty gas shocks would be best. No need for Konis at
$120/each; any set of name-brand shocks would fit your bill. If you really
want performance shocks, you can get a set of four KYB shocks for about $120
mail-order.

>i read in the option list for 73 that heavy duty coils and suspension
>required special wheels. How special?

Probably wider (6.5" or 7" vs 6"). You can use whatever you have on there now.

>And last. on the rear suspension control arms, how do you change the
bushings? >In the service manual it says you have to replace the control arm
itself >(?), but i think i found bushings only for them. So who is right?

You can use a press. Beware of trying to follow the factory
"service-procedures" to the letter; many times they assume the availability
of factory service parts and service tools that are not readily available,
if they're available at all, so you often have to improvise.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:52:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Big Block Intake Manifold ('76 vintage)

At 10:56 PM 5/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Finally found a 4bbl manifold locally. Not too easy because most Junque
[snip]
>and lots of vacuum hoses so it must have been 1976. Now I hope you all will
>forgive me for not consulting the FAQ first. But this sucker will fit on a
>1965 425ci motor, won't it? Also there were things on the manifold that I

Yes, it will fit.

>could not identify but took anyway. Basically they were two objects that
>looked much like a distributor's vacuum diaphram but one was slightly larger
>and located passenger's side rear of manifold. The other one was

That sounds like your heater control valve. It threads into a large opening
in the rear water passage, right? You'll need that, though you may be able
to use the one from your '65 as well. I've had bad luck with the plastic
replacement aftermarket ones; go with a metal one if you need another.

>approximately 3.5-4 inches in diameter and located at the middle of the
>driver's side edge of the manifold. This manifold has the choke pipe (heat

That's the EGR valve. You don't have to hook it up; its mere presence there,
disconnected, won't affect performance, though you could remove it and
replace it with a block-off plate. It would just be cosmetic, however, to
remove it.

>stove?) from the original carburetor which was removed at some distant time
>before I arrived. Further information; the manifold proclaimed OLDSMOBILE in

So you can use any Q-jet with an integral choke. Look for Q-jets beginning
with the numbers 7040xxx, 7041xxx or 7042xxx, with the fuel-inlet pointing
straight forward. Or just order a replacement Q-jet for a '70 455 from your
parts store.

>areas of the yard that time constraints kept hidden from me. When I do I will
>provide complete VIN and cowl tags for anyone who needs anything.
>BTW will I need an adapter to put a 650cfm holley on this manifold?

Though a non-EGR intake is preferrable, this one will work just as well for
your application. And yes, you'd need an adapter to run the Holley, unless
it was a spreadbore carb.

>Detroit iron, gotta love it. Intake manifold = ~60-70 lbs (whew!)

Tell me about it! I just picked up a couple of manifolds and heads from
where I've been storing them, and my poor Electra was dragging its rear
bumper so bad I had to leave half of them behind for another trip!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:52:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Original 72 Cutlass wheels

At 07:27 PM 5/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a set of original 14" wheels, hubcaps and new tires, (plus the spare)
>on my 72 Cutlass S. I'm looking into putting Cragars on the car and I'm
>trying to see what the original wheels would be worth. Offers?

If you're talking about the plain steel wheels (not SSI or SSII's), then
they have no particular value; about $2-$5/each, in excellent shape, if
somebody is really looking for a set. I can't imagine how many millions of
these wheels are out there (I've got about a dozen sitting around in
different places, with and without tires). I find them most useful for
mounting a spare set of junk tires just to keep a project car in rolling
condition.

If someone wants a set for that, however, they could probably collect a
decent set within a couple of weeks of paying attention to spare tires left
on the side of the road. They are literally everywhere.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª671
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