To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #637


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 29 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 637

Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Shroud to fender braces
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Re: Original Plates & Personalized
Olds Club of Florida Show a Success!!
Re: 75 H/O
Re: Frame Mounts
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
72 Olds 98 2drht
'84 H/O Plate
Re: Tranny rebuild finished!
Auto Trans Fluid Questions
SSI Center caps & Jefferson WI, swap meet
Re:  '72 in need
RE: Rear Wing
Re: Original Plates
Re:Wheel request
Re: Shroud to fender braces
Re: Auto Trans Fluid Questions
For Sale
The new guy .....
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: My Web Page is UP (If a bit thin)
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Olds Value
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
HEATER
Re: transmition swap
Re: Auto Trans Fluid Questions (EXTEND)
Re: 72 Olds 98 2drht
Re: HEATER
Ol' Toro now runs!
Re: Valvetrain noise
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Re: HEATER
Re: 72 Olds 98 2drht
Re: The new guy .....
Re: Auto Trans Fluid Questions
Re: The new guy .....
455 Aircleaner in 307
Re: Tire reccomendation wanted
Re: Motion Hurst, OCF show
Hood Pad for 86 442
Re: Motion Hurst, OCF show
69 Cutlass 'S'
Re: HEATER
Re: 69 Cutlass 'S'

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 20:55:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

At 06:15 PM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have found that Goodyear Eagles are real good (they hold the pavement like
>glue on my Buick, rain or shine), but the tread doesn't wear well.  The
>Dunlop sports tire, the name escapes me at the moment, is VERY good.  My 1985
>Cutlass, which normally handled like an eel on an oil slick, did quite well
>with those.
>
>DO NOT BY FIRESTONE!!!!!  CHEAP PIECE OF CRAP!!!!!
>
>I can't comment on too many other tires.  But the above (except for
>Firestone) have served me well.  I have heard Cooper and General are good, if
>you like a less expensive tire, but don't deliver the performance of Goodyear
>or Dunlop.
>
>Michelin?  If the French can't kick any German butt in wars, can we trust
>them to build a tire?
>
>Duane
>1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible (with Firestones that have to go)
>1989 Century T-type (with Goodyear Eagles that are well past their prime)
>
>
That's an interesting concept about Michelins.  When the bouche came of
course, the French told them to get out and stay out (of their plant that
is) if they wanted tires.  Michelin was fairly well left on their own during
the occupation.  Also the French Army did a creditable job in WWI, I suppose
much to everyone's suprise, considering their performance in 1870, and if I
remember my history correctly; the French Emperor Napoleon invaded Germany,
and got kicked in the pants right good, for trying it.

And then we can carry your thinking one step further and recommend Perelli's?

And now we have East Germany and West Germany united again.  I suppose that
if we give them 75 years or so to remove the taint of Marixism, the French
better look out again.  I wonder which the side the Russians will be on in
that one, and the Italians.  What fun, and all you wanted to do was talk
about tires.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:00:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Shroud to fender braces

I am assuming you mean those black tubes that go from the front of fender
to the back near the firewall?  I've removed these recently in mine, and
not put them back on yet, and I was wondering if maybe I should!  They
are a pain, but it's unlikely, in my opinion, that any car company would
manufacturer and install a brace at their expense that wasn't needed
(Though I haven't noticed any side-effects in a year without them).

If anyone can point out what happens if you leave these off, please let
me know.

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.0.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

On Mon, 28 Apr 1997, Aaron D Eoff wrote:

> Can anyone tell me the purpose of the "tubular" shroud to fender braces. I
> did at one time have them on my car but they always seemed to have gotten in
> the way when working on my engine. Ive misplaced the two i had since then
> but am intrested in obtaining two more. Any sources??
>
> Aaron
> 77" Olds Cutlass Supreme
>
>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:08:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

Easton,Jeffrey wrote:
>
> I'm on vacation this week and have a lot of time on my hands (see
> previous post) so I thought I'd get my 442 appraised, since that seems
> to be the first step in getting antique auto insurance.
>
<snip>

>  I assume that since
> they wrote it up at $12k, I can get it insured for that amount.  Since I
> paid nowhere near that for the car, can I still insure it for less?  Does
> it make the premiums go down significantly?
>
> -Jeff
> jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
>
> 1970  442  4-Speed

Jeff,

Usually the underwriters will accept this apprasisal & insure it too.
If something happens, they appraise it themselves & you get what you
get. I suggest that you keep good records of any repairs or upgrades
including pictures of the car all over.

As to insurance, I would insure it for the real value for which you
think that it could be replaced.  Paying for more insurance won't do
anything but increase your premiums.

There are several good companies such as Condon & Skelly (< 2500
miles/yr & no regular use), Hagerty (I use that one because of no
mileage or strict use restrictions), JC Taylor, American Collectors
(<2500 miles/yr), Blueprint, Classic Collectors, plus a couple I must
have missed.  All are priced similarly & except for Blueprint (haven't
heard of the company before) are reliable.  Check them out.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:09:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates & Personalized

At 06:47 PM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:

>In Ohio, they seem to issue "Collector's Plates" to anything that has two
>or more tires. I've seen some pretty trashy rides with these plates on
>them. As for the Historical Plates, I've seen these on some "last-leg"
>autos as well. I remember a '63 C*ddy with the rear doors roped shut
>wearing Historical Tags. I was told (by the License Bureau) that these tags
>are for vehicles being driven to and from Cars Shows and the like. You can
>get "Model Year" plates once you have the Historical Plates, and Ohio is a
>2-plate state which makes finding a pair kinda tough. Good thing I saved
>all our plates from the 60s &70s!
>
>This "car show" limitation is what's preventing me from getting them,
>although they are a bargain compared to regular, annual plates. They've
>also installed a computer in some License Bureaus allowing you to check on
>plate availability. This saves a lot of hassle. You can find the plate you
>want and walk over to a window and they'll order it for you. Before, you
>had to send in a number of requests, and three-weeks later, they sent you
>the application form with one of your choices. If you didn't want it, you
>just tossed it wawy. Your tax dollars at rest!
>
>BTW My boss, who is a very deranged man said he always wanted this plate:
>FRBRGR sorry if I offend.
>
>Paul Fikaris
>fikaris@en.com
>'69 Delta 88 Conv 455


Paul,

Are you sure you've got this correct?  I live in Ohio, too, and I've gotten
both the Historical Vehicle and Personalized plates.  The historical
vehicle plates are the ones that are cheap ($17 one-time only, the last
time I looked) and that restrict you to driving only to and from car shows
and the like.  As far I know, these are not personalizable.  You get
whatever number is next in line.  The first character is always an "H".
This is available to cars 25 years old or older.  As you say, you can also
use year-of-your-car license plates, if you can find them.  And I'm pretty
sure that, even though Ohio is a two-plate state, you only need to have
_one_ correct year plate in order to use this option.  This option is
treated the same as the historical vehicle plate with regard to cost and
driving restrictions.

The Personalized plates (or vanity or whatever you call them) are the
expensive ones (about double the normal registration fee--in my case, for
my county, the registration fee is $90 versus the normal $45, and that's
per year), but they're just like regular license plates with regard to
driving restrictions (i.e., none).  These are the ones that, as you say,
you fill out a form, put your top three or six picks or whatever, send it
in, and then wait and see if what you asked for is available.  The ability
to check availability while you wait is very recent.  These plates are
available to any car regardless of model year.


Dan



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:24:54 -0300
Subject: Olds Club of Florida Show a Success!!

Hello all --

Since I'm sure Bob Handren is too modest to toot his own horn, I'll do it
for him.  :)  He and his wife Cheryl chaired an absolutely wonderful show
this past weekend.  Being only the second annual OCF show, there wasn't
much previous information to go on, but he and Cheryl made a terrific
success out of it.  The sprinkling of rain on Saturday didn't dampen
anyone's enthusiasm (but the judges were no longer able to deduct points
for water spots!).

I'm proud to say that Grey Mine (on Bryce's web page, if you're
interested) won "Least Likely to Make it Home"!  It earned a whopping
400-something points out of 1000.  There were lots of beautiful cars in
the regular classes, and both Bob and Cheryl won first place in Modified
for their cars.

So a big "thank you" goes out to Bob and Cheryl, who worked incredibly
hard for many months to make this show a success.  We hope to see more of
you make the drive down to Florida for next year's show!!!

8)
peg
1978 Cutlass Calais  (Red Mine)
1986 Cutlass Supreme (Grey Mine)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 16:20:38 -0300
Subject: Re: 75 H/O

Tony Williams wrote:
>
> How do I stop the leak around the T-top? Of course the weatherstripping is
not > being manufactured. Is there a better way? > My car is about 85%
complete with  the big 455. > Black > > Tony Williams > remaxrealtor1@msn.com >
800-263-9764

Tony,

I suppose that you want to save the current weatherstrip is that is
possible.  If you have any tears or damage to the weatherstrip, that
should be addressed first.  Use pieces similar to your car from a
salvage unit to patch in around the doors.  There are black silicone
type glues for this & it works.  You may have to fill any missing parts
in the weatherstrip actually at the T-tops.

After this is cured, fluff the weatherstrip w/Armorall or some similar
product.  Use this treatment profusely & several times.  Do not replace
the T-tops until you have fluffed the weatherstrip all day & gotten it
to swell as much as possible.  Try to rejuvenate these things weekly for
a while & then monthly for the rest of their life.

You'd be amazed at what a little maintenance like this can do.  I have
T-tops in an '87 Mustang GT that have never leaked & it has never been
in a garage.  This treatment was used since new.  I tried this on a
Toronado's electric sunroof seals & the leaking has stopped & hasn't
recurred for 3 years now.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Olds455cut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:28:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Frame Mounts

Last summer I put a 455 in a 67 Cutlass Supreme.  The engine was too high and
it was hard to get the mounts to bolt in.  The part number for the 330 and
455 mount was the same, so I figured it would fit.  Wrong!

At Carlisle, I bought a 1967 Oldsmobile Service Manual ($45) and found
something interesting on page 6B-3;

      Fig. 6B-103 Engine Mounting (52 through 86 Series)
           The picture shows a frame mount with only one bolt holding it to
the frame.

      Fig. 6B-104 Engine Mounting (34, 36 and 38 Series)
            The picture shows a frame mount with three bolts holding it to
the frame.

I don't think this clears anything up, but adds more questions.  Can I buy
this frame mount or can the existing mount be moved?  How about the 442's,
 which frame mount did they get?

Now that the weather is getting nice in New Jersey, I will pull the 330 frame
mount off to see if there is another hole for the big block mount.

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:35:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

At 06:05 AM 4/28/97 -0300, Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>     Does anyone have any recommendations for brand and models of tires for
>     my '84 H/O.  I'll probably get 235/60R15's.  My primary concerns are
>     tread life, a quiet smooth ride, and handling.  I don't need
>     all-seasons, since I have dedicated snow tires.  Traction would be
>     nice too, but I realize that the hard compound required for tread life
>     is a trade off.  Besides, the fairly hard 235/60's I have on there now
>     seem to have enough traction to hold the HP that the 307 puts out.

Goodyear GSC's are put on the new F-body cars and are excellent performanve
tires. I have Firestone Firehawk SVX's on my Z and love them.  Also I have a
set of Hoosier Radial GT's that were on my old Z and now are on my
442...they are excellent tires for the price ($254 for 4 from Summit Racing)
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, SLP headers,
Mobil 1(eng. & diff.), Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html


------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:50:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

At 06:15 PM 4/28/97 -0300, Kabootski@aol.com wrote:
>I have found that Goodyear Eagles are real good (they hold the pavement like
>glue on my Buick, rain or shine), but the tread doesn't wear well.  The
>Dunlop sports tire, the name escapes me at the moment, is VERY good.  My 1985
>Cutlass, which normally handled like an eel on an oil slick, did quite well
>with those.
>
>DO NOT BY FIRESTONE!!!!!  CHEAP PIECE OF CRAP!!!!!

And what justification do you have for this? Just curious. I run Firestone
Firehawk SVX's on my Z/28 and I drive the car like hell everyday and they
are excellent in handling and traction. I rate them just a bit below the
Goodyear GSC's For some kick ass expensive tires the Firestone ZR50's are
the way to go.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, SLP headers,
Mobil 1(eng. & diff.), Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html


------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:59:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

At 04:08 PM 4/28/97 -0300, Lloyd Culp wrote:

>
>There are several good companies such as Condon & Skelly (< 2500
>miles/yr & no regular use), Hagerty (I use that one because of no
>mileage or strict use restrictions), JC Taylor, American Collectors
>(<2500 miles/yr), Blueprint, Classic Collectors, plus a couple I must
>have missed.  All are priced similarly & except for Blueprint (haven't
>heard of the company before) are reliable.  Check them out.

Bill or anyone else, would these companies insure a 1980? I have been
wanting to get this type of insurance for my 80 442 W-30. While it isn't a
classic-yet, it is very rare with only 346 of the white/gold being produced.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, SLP headers,
Mobil 1(eng. & diff.), Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html


------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 22:26:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

Kabootski@aol.com wrote:

>
> DO NOT BY FIRESTONE!!!!!  CHEAP PIECE OF CRAP!!!!!
>

I disagree with you here.  I've had my Firehawk SS10's on for about 20k
now and I love them.  The white letters shine up great and the traction
can't be beat...I shreaded the Goodyears I had before.  I looked at the
Goodyear ST's, but I think I made the right decision: the Firehawks are
superior tires.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: seadog <Seadog@csnet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 22:54:03 -0300
Subject: 72 Olds 98 2drht

Any help in going about fixing up ?

George

------------------------------

From: Howard <howardh@magicnet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 22:50:00 -0300
Subject: '84 H/O Plate

 Bill Gochenour wrote:
FOR SALE / TRADE: The original GM front plate that came on the 84
Hurst/Olds (ª22525040), it's silver with red & black letters. I'm
looking for the same plate but for the 83 H/O 15th anniversary edition,
for purchase or trade. The 84 plate is still in the factory
package.....never opened, MINT !

e-mail back to 3STICKS@stjohns.edu !

Bill, I tried emailing you at above but it came back "unknown server". Anyway,
if you'd email me back with what you want for this plate, I'd appreciate
it, that is if still available.
Sorry to bore you with this guys!



      ___   ___ ___
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /
   /  HURST //  /
  /  /  /  //  /_______
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \
         /  //  /OLDS/  /
        /  / \  \___/  /
       /__/   \_______/

  Howard Hosenbold
  howardh@magicnet.net
  1984 Hurst Olds
  Production ª 2748
  OCA ª 024551
  HOCA ª 1259
  OCF ª 24551

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:28:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Tranny rebuild finished!

   Er Uh -- just a simple question here -- you wouldn't happen to still have
the flat six engine for your Plymouth would you ????   My neighbor has a 1953
Dodge truck with a flat six in it and the exhaust manifold is broken, i mean
really broken not just a little cracked, just tryin to be a little neigborly
here and locate another manifold for her.

    Anyway --- olds content -- got the exhaust hooked up today on the F85 now
every body in my little neighborhood wants to go for a ride  :-)   I dunno
there's just sumthin about an Oldsmobubble, and a friend of mine has a friend
that manages a pop group called the Delphines -- they want to see the F85 in
person -- thinking obout putting it as a backgound object on thier next
album.

               Today was a better day

                                                    J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:28:13 -0300
Subject: Auto Trans Fluid Questions

Has anybody here heard of any tricks for auto transmission fluid.  I
heard that you could use a quart of the F (F*RD) fluid and the shifts
would improve.  This is supposedly due to the excessive slip that is
built into the GM fluids.  I have no idea if this is true or not.  Also,
I checked out the B&M trick shift fluid.  This stuff is $3.99 a quart!
I can't imagine it is worth that.  Anybody ever used the stuff?  I'm
just wondering if I can get a little crisper shifts, by just changing
the fluid.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:38:41 -0300
Subject: SSI Center caps & Jefferson WI, swap meet

I just got back from the swap meet in Jefferson, WI and overall it was
pretty good.  There were lots of Oldsmobile parts.  Nothing I needed,
but a lot of parts.  The prices were a little on the high side.  The
coolest thing I saw was an NOS olds thermometer.  This mounts the the
driver's side mirror.  I have never seen one of these on a car, and I
have only seen a picture of one once.  The cost for a such a
rarity...$150.

Also, I checked out the vendors selling NOS parts and the going price
for NOS SSI center caps was $30 each.  I went to the Parts Place and
checked out their SSI caps, then I went 15 feet and looked at the ch*vy
SS center caps.  The SS center caps were $16.  I have always suspected
that these were the same center caps.  I asked the guy at the parts
place and he stammered and said they were different.  When I asked him
what the difference were, he really couldn't come up with any.  He said
he figured the depth was different.  I couldn't compare the caps side by
side because they were mounted on a board.  Does anybody know if they
are the same?  If they are, you could buy a SS cap for $16 and a rocket
decal for $6.  This would save you $8 and you'd have a SS decal to shoot
a bullet hole in.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:43:35 -0300
Subject: Re:  '72 in need

Received this request on my web page - I know that this info is readily
avail. through a bunch of you guys & please reply privately to these nice
Olds people at: jxbchel@southeast.net

My name is Donald Terrell.
My wife and I have a 72' Cutlass Convert able.
We purchased it about a year ago.I paid $3000 for the car, it has alot of
rust on it but the amazing thing is that everything works on the car. The
guy we bought her from tried to race the car, he put a 455 MARINE OLDS
engine in her with no success. My problem is that I have been trying to
find some sort of literature on options, paint, specs. and other stuff for
the car. I would like to put a W-25 on the the car ( but is this correct or
not). Did this model come with any W-31 options at all. Can you get the
just of my problem.
 I am a member of the Olds Club of America and Florida, I have been to a
number of shows, talked to a number of people, asked alot of questions, got
alot of answers but not the one I am looking for.
Publications.
Manuals.
Factory Option Sheet.

 Can you HELP!!!!!!
Linda and Donald Terrell

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:49:36 -0300
Subject: RE: Rear Wing

>>   I am interested in some feedback on rear wings sold by Brothers
>>and or Year One. I am interested in purchasing a rear wing and wanted
>>some feed back from anybody who has purchased one of these wings. I have
>>been told that the one sold by Brothers Automotive is pretty close to
>>the originals. Please respond with any feedback. =20

>I do not know whether or not the Brothers piece is an exact reproduction =
>of the factory original wing or not. What I do know is that the Year One =
>piece is NOT a direct bolt on replacement. The mounting holes on the YO =
>piece do not match the holes for a factory spoiler. Also, the pedestals =
>require filing to fit the contour of the trunk. By the time you are =
>done, the wing sits too far back (towards the rear window) in relation =
>to the factory original. Save yourself the headache (if possible) and =
>find a used original.

>Jim Rabideau

I bought the Year One model.  It was made by a local place to them in
Georgia.  I cant recall the name of the place, but Year One will tell
you who makes it if you ask.  I had several questions regarding the hole
locations when I called and they didnt have any info on hole diagrams or
placements, so they put me on hold and called the vendor.  They didnt
have any drill diagrams either.  Even with these reservations, I went
ahead and ordered it.  Since my car didnt have the wing to begin with,
I wasnt too concerned with exact alignment with pre-existing holes.  I'd
just drill 'em where ever.

When the wing arrived, I pulled out the Fisher Body assembly manual and
measured, sure enough, the bolts werent exactly where they were suppose
to be.  It appeared that one set was 1/4 inch off.  There didnt appear
to be any reason why they couldnt have placed the bolts in the exact
locations.

One of my strut towers was screwed on crooked, which caused the
three bolts in that tower to not be square with the other three.  I
spent a lot of time with string and a straight edge trying to
square up the bolts with the wing (not an easy task as the wing itself is
curved, not straight).  I finally took one of the towers off
and slotted the holes in it and screwed it back to the wing in a
parallel fashion.

After I got the parts back from the painter, I screwed the towers onto
the wing, measured for square, then measured the trunk lid about 15
times before I drilled the holes.  I didnt have the problem with
the arc of the towers not fitting the curvature of the trunk, but I
spent some time trying to figure out where the holes in the trunk
lid should be to avoid this problem, since the wing sits right
on the edge of where the lid starts a big curve down toward the
bumper.  Any slight mis-alignment here and nothing fits flush.

The completed project looks stock from the outside, and from the
inside of the trunk lid, its pretty close.  Only one pair of bolts
are slightly off center from the reliefs in the trunk bracing.

There are two other types of wings I've seen, one is a three
peice set but only had two bolts per tower, not three.
The other wing I've seen is a one piece unit.  It was real thin
and you could actually collapse the wing if you squeezed it
on the top and bottom.  I bought a '72 cutlass once that
had this type on it.  It was also terribly mis-aligned with
the trunklid.  This is why I was so paranoid about measuring
and aligning the one I put on the 442.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442 4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:55:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates

Received my Statement of Facts form today to request Sacramento to run a
history on my original plates.  And guess what else they included.....a
PHONE SURVEY FORM!!!  Oh my - this will be the most fun I've had in a month
(they want my OPINION of that much treasured 15 min. phone call that went
absolutely nowhere.)

Hee hee hee......

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:52:49 -0300
Subject: Re:Wheel request

Here is another info request I received off of my web page.

Hello.
A couple of years ago, I picked up a steering wheel at a swap meet. It
was unusual in that it mounted like early Corvette...that is, large
center hole (2.5" or so) surrounded by 9 or 13 small holes for attaching
to column. It was a 4 spoke wheel, about 14" in diameter. I recall it
was Olds, since it had the Olds emblem in the horn button. Anyway, I
need another one, and I don't know which Olds this would have come off
of. I suspect late '70s or early '80s. If you know or could lead me to
other Olds experts, that would be real real nice.
Thanks in advance.
Ernie

Ernie_Coursolle@ATK.COM

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:51:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Shroud to fender braces

Hi Aaron
  I have a 76 Cutlass parts car with the braces you are talking about and are
the same for 77. Please e-mail me if you have further interest.


Everett  OCA ª1961

ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 23:58:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Fluid Questions

At 11:28 PM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Has anybody here heard of any tricks for auto transmission fluid.  I
>heard that you could use a quart of the F (F*RD) fluid and the shifts
>would improve.  This is supposedly due to the excessive slip that is
>built into the GM fluids.  I have no idea if this is true or not.  Also,
>I checked out the B&M trick shift fluid.  This stuff is $3.99 a quart!
>I can't imagine it is worth that.  Anybody ever used the stuff?  I'm
>just wondering if I can get a little crisper shifts, by just changing
>the fluid.
>
>-Dan
>
Dan

        Yes you can use F*rd transmission fluid in a GM TH350 or TH400. Do
this only after a complete rebuild. You can not mix the two. The shifts are
harder but it wears the friction plates a bit more. If you have a GM auto
done correctly with a shift kit and HD parts it will have neck snapping,
tire chirping shifts even at light throttle.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Bob Whitesitt <bwhitesitt@stlnet.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:50:08 -0300
Subject: For Sale

I have a 1967 Olds 98 that has been stretched into a 21 foot Limo. She
runs well, some rust, needs a little body work. Anyone interested? Bob
Whitesitt / 111 West Argonne / Kirkwood, Missouri 63122-4201
bwhitesitt@stlnet.com

------------------------------

From: "Mitch Warren" <mitchntx@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:08:42 -0300
Subject: The new guy .....

My name is Mitch Warren and I live southwest of Ft. Worth, Texas.

I'm the new guy on this list and have already tossed my 2 cents in
(privately) to a fellow member.  The reason I have quickly jumped in here
is because of the warm reception the Caddy owner got when talking about his
Olds 350.

I own a Pontiac Trans AM with the "mighty 301". It's tired and ready for a
break.  So, I have located another TA ('79 Indy Pace car, 10th anniversary)
with a 403/TH350 setup and am looking at a swap.  The TA was stolen and
trashed inside and is nothing more that a donor car now.8^(    I am getting
everything from the radiator to driveshaft for a reasonable $350.  8^)

I'm not looking to make a tire melting, sound barrier breaking motor.  Just
a healthy 250 -275hp, pump gas, daily driver Olds 403.

What input can I get from the list members to accomplish this task?  Should
I have waited until I muddle through 30Mb of FAQ?  What reference material
is available (other than the FAQ) on performance rebuilds?  What
aftermarket performance enhancing add-ons are available and where?  What
carb/heads/intake/exhaust combos are compatible and will give the best
performance?  Which of these combos can an average working man with 2
teenage girls afford?

Anyone go to PATE swap meet this year?  I went Friday before the monsoon
beganand left about 11am.  Many vendors were already leaving and cash was
definitely talking.  I guess I should've asked these questions before PATE,
right?  I did pick up a "6.6 Litre" shaker scoop for $20 before I left.  My
T/A 4.9 shaker would'nt align on a 403 ......

Any help, comments, donations, criticizms, tools, directions, recipes,
and/or witicisms are greatly appreciated.

TIA

Mitch Warren
mitchntx@flash.net

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:08:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

Well, as for Perellis, the Italians have always been known for their cultural
contributions.  History dictates that they have never been a strong military
force.  I think their little foray into armed conflict is more of an anomoly
than anything else.  The French have a much longer military history, and one
would think after all those years they could have gotten it right.

And you are right, probably not a good idea to let my fellow Germans fester
for too long.  It seems that we start getting antsy if we don't have a good
war every few years.

Besides, Michelins are just too damn expensive anyway.

What does this have to do with Oldsmobile?  Napoleon drove one.

Duane
1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:13:55 -0300
Subject: Re: My Web Page is UP (If a bit thin)

I'll gladly put a link from my page to yours.  Congrats on the baby - you
wouldn't be about to join the Olds List - Twins parents group would you?


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:04:17 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

I forwarded the $20 for the woodgrain for the '72.  I am in need of 3 very
important things for my 'new' Toronado - the right front wheel well molding
& the driver door rear view mirror and the horn button.  If you hear of any
of these or come across some - please please let me know.

Much appreciated -  ANYONE ELSE WHO MIGHT be listening - if you know of any
of these parts whereabouts I'd be appreciative of the info.




Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:12:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Value

Another inquiry off my web page

I own a 1977 Cutlass Supreme with 21,000 original miles.  It is a
beautiful car (white w/half camel colored vinyl roof)  It has a leather
interior and was owned by my Aunt who purchased it in 1997 and put
18,000 miles on it prior to giving it to my son.  I am wondering if
there is a market for this vehicle and how much I should ask for it.  If
you could help me establish a fair market value, I would greatly
appreciate it.  Please contact me at Dewey.Rosencrans@gsa.gov

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:19:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

Last thing on tires... the ST's do shread up easy.  I have GT+4 on my Buick
Century T-type and that car can take 20-25 mph turns at 50 without squealing.
 My Grand Fury police car, which by its nature should have a heavy-duty
suspension, squealed through similar turns with a Firestone performance tire,
which wore out after 7500 miles anyway.  And Firestone claimed my car was at
fault...

I told Firestone where to stick it and have bought Goodyear and Dunlop ever
since.

Duane
1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible
1989 Buick Century T-type

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:15:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

I had firestones on a Grand Fury police car and a 1988 Grand Prix.  WORST
tires I have ever had.  Poor traction, they made the cars scary to drive in
the rain, and they wore out after 10000 miles.  And these weren't exactly
cheap tires.  Ever since Firestone was bought out about 12 years ago, the
quality of the tire went into the crapper.  They used to be A-1.  Not
anymore.

Duane
1970 Cutlass Supreme (with Firestones, soon to be replaced with Eagles)

------------------------------

From: KINSMAN C KOSIN <"KINSK "@TOWNSQR.COM>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:05:25 -0300
Subject: HEATER

I HAVE 1982 MODEL 98 AND I CAN NOT SHUT OFF THE HEATER. I HAVE REPLACED
THE WATER CONTROL VALVE UNDER THE HOOD AND THE VACUME VALVE ON THE BACK
OF HEATER ,AC CONTROL ON THE DASH. IN THE OFFF\ POSITION I STILL GET
HEAT OUT WHEN CAR IS MOVING. THE ONLY WAY TO SHUT OF HEAT IS TO PUT
CONTROL IN AC POSITION. THE TEMP CONTROL HAS NO EFFECT ON TEMP AT ALL.
HELP!!!!

KINSMAN C KOSIN 1539 COUNTY RD6310 WEST PLAINS MO 65775-6323
KINSK@TOWNSQR.COM            417 257 0606

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 22:50:54 -0300
Subject: Re: transmition swap

Steven LaCrosse wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if a TH400 from a Ch*vy 350 can be instaled on a 72
> Cutlass with a 350? My trany is slipping and it's cheaper to swap then
> repair. Thanks.

350 Olds? Nope! Sorry.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:41:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Fluid Questions (EXTEND)

On Mon, 28 Apr 1997, Dan Williams wrote:

> Has anybody here heard of any tricks for auto transmission fluid.  I
> heard that you could use a quart of the F (F*RD) fluid and the shifts
> would improve.  This is supposedly due to the excessive slip that is
> built into the GM fluids.  I have no idea if this is true or not.  Also,
> I checked out the B&M trick shift fluid.  This stuff is $3.99 a quart!
> I can't imagine it is worth that.  Anybody ever used the stuff?  I'm
> just wondering if I can get a little crisper shifts, by just changing
> the fluid.

I've good luck with EXTEND tranny-no-slip-stuff.  For $8.00ish it seems
to do this pretty good.  (I also heartily endorse their rad-seal, which
has saved me from buying any new radiators or doing any soddering!)

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.0.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:45:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 72 Olds 98 2drht

On Mon, 28 Apr 1997, seadog wrote:

> Any help in going about fixing up ?
Send it UPS to me, registration included, and I will handle it.  (I cried
yesterday when I saw a 1975 Olds 98 2DOOR, and it wasn't mine!  and I was
in no way capable of finding the owner)!

Good luck getting those monster sized doors to work right!

>
> George
>

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:50:50 -0300
Subject: Re: HEATER

On Tue, 29 Apr 1997, KINSMAN C KOSIN wrote:

> I HAVE 1982 MODEL 98 AND I CAN NOT SHUT OFF THE HEATER. I HAVE REPLACED
> THE WATER CONTROL VALVE UNDER THE HOOD AND THE VACUME VALVE ON THE BACK
> OF HEATER ,AC CONTROL ON THE DASH. IN THE OFFF\ POSITION I STILL GET
> HEAT OUT WHEN CAR IS MOVING. THE ONLY WAY TO SHUT OF HEAT IS TO PUT
> CONTROL IN AC POSITION. THE TEMP CONTROL HAS NO EFFECT ON TEMP AT ALL.
> HELP!!!!
Most likely the problem is in the mixer-door that let's air go by or
through the heater core.  If you can't fix it right, I recommend the
following easy-quick-fixes:
1)  Feed straight manifold vacuum to the valve on the manifold, killing
the heater.
2)  Re-route the hoses not through the heater core
3)  Add an extra garden-hose type clamp on the heater hose
4)  Drive with the windows down!

My mom's 78 88 did this, periodically it just stuck on for a bit, then
stopped before anyone ever fixed, then started again just to annoy you!

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.0.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard of olds's: Current count : 5 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 00:58:39 -0300
Subject: Ol' Toro now runs!

     Well, I ~finally~ got the Toro to go today.  What a nightmare!  It sat
for roughly eight years, and the last two it sat without a carb (w/mice
inhabiting the intake)  I got a carb & wheels on it, and struggled with fuel
problems since then.  Every so often, it would seem to get its own gas, but
I'd usually have to prime the carb before it'd even ~try~ to fire.  Usually
it'd fire a few times, then flood out completely.  Today, I pulled the carb
off again, and attacked the intake with a heat gun for about half an hour :)
Dried that sucker right out!  (Don't try this at home, unless supervised by
a shrink!  It worked, tho...)  I put the carb back on, reprimed it, and it
fired up finally.  Then died.  ~But~ it did run for a couple seconds.  I
reprimed the carb again, and it fired a few times and died.  I reprimed the
carb again, and it started, and ~ran~!  Then died.  I reprimed the carb
again, and then called NAPA.  The new fuel pump will be in tomorrow AM.  I
got off the phone, put the air cleaner on, and shut the hood.  I thought,
"what the hell, I want to see if it moves"  I knew I had about five seconds
of fuel left in the bowl...  I started it, dropped 'er in "R" and backed up.
Then stopped, put in "D" and went foreword!  Ooooh.  Then revved it up a few
times.  Then a few more, then even more.  And it ~kept running~!  I stuck it
at a fast idle for a bit, to try clearing stuff out.  Holy S***, did it
smoke!!!  Even with the far side of North Dakota flooding, I think I still
managed to kill off any mosquitos that may be starting up!  (Folks in
Michigan, if you notice a ~big blue cloud~ coming your way in the next
couple days, don't get alarmed, that's just a Montana Oldsmobile sending
smoke signals.  Translated loosely, it says 'the battle's done...')
     So anyway, I drove it up on the lawn to put water in the radiator
(which leaks heavily) and openned the hood.  This is when I noticed the fuel
shooting out of the pump at a ~very~ strong rate :(  So I shut it off, and
rinsed that area with water.  (just in case...)  Then I fired it up again,
and parked it back on the street, backwards, this time, so passers by don't
see the big gash in the driver's front corner...   I am going to have big CV
repairs soon to come, though, if I do decide to fix it up anytime soon.
They were clicking pretty bad :(  Oh well, I've got bigger worries at this
point in time.  I'm just releived that it runs!  I'm not looking foreward to
changing that fuel pump though.  I'm not impressed with the accessory layout
of these things.  That ª2 spark plug sure is a b**ch!  The pump don't look
much better...  Oh, well.  That's why I studied auto tech, right?

     I'll keep everyone posted as it's life returns.  I got the interior
partly cleaned out now.  The driver's window won't move on its own (motor
works, window don't go.)  The rest of the windows work, tho.  Seat doesn't.
Tons of electrical problems.  (About five or six broken wires in the door
jam harness.  Could explain the seat and part of the other window problems.
Only one window goes down from the driver's door.)  Anyway, enough for now.
I'm gonna go play some more.


Whoa!  It's been a few hours since I wrote this, but couldn't log in to send
it, so here's another update:

Fixed the door jam wires and took apart driver's door.  All windows work
now, but the driver's door window has big troubles.  Stripped gear, I think
it's in the transmission assy.  I can push the glass down an inch, and then
the motor grabs it and yanks it down nicely.  It goes up except for that
last inch or so, then I have to pull on the glass.  Put it back together,
and called it good enough for now.  It's dark, and the yard light died last
week.  Fixed one floor light, but only had an amber to put in.  Oh well.
Opened the glove box to check on some parts that I'd found and stuck in
there.  By now, the car had been quiet (hadn't run) for about four hours.
Anyway, while in there, I bumped the trunk button by accident.  Ssssshptik,
and the trunk popped open.  ~Cool~!  Some things work.  The seat even moves
now (not much, but it moves...)  Anyway, enough for the night.

Later :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:52:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Valvetrain noise

- ----------
> At 11:51 AM 4/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >            Hi all,
> >Well i've got good news &bad, 1st. the good
> >the 455 i
> >purhased about a month or so ago does have a forged crank &rods i
>
> Is that the crank original to the engine? Of course, the next question we
> all want to know the answer to is "what was the engine originally in?"


> How'd you confirm the forged crank? BTW, all modern Olds rods are forged.


The engine with the forged steel crank is one that I bought from a local
junkyard.
I'd called the guy looking for one I could rebuild between '68-'70.  He
told me he had one from a '71. I went and looked at it and noticed it was a
'68 with no heads, 2-barrel intake.  GAve him $50 for it, brought it home,
sprayed it down with oven cleaner, let it set overnight.  Cleaned and
sprayed with high-pressure hose and revealed red paint (which indicated it
was an early '68).  Took oil pan off, found ª's 400943 on the rear throw,
saw the wide parting lines.  I also noticed that the front throw has "AC"
stamped in it.  Does anyone know what this means?  AC Delco?  I think it's
the original crank for the block.  The block's a '68 F4.


>
> >don't have all those fine measuring tools .  2nd. Bad news:  i've been
> >experiencing valve train noise, i thought it was a bad lifter or a weak
>
> How many miles on the valvetrain? Is it a performance cam? Many are
reground
> on smaller base-circles, so you need longer pushrods; without them, the
> valves will clatter. It could just be worn rocker arms or pedestals,
causing
> extra clearance.

Miles on valvetrain:  about 4000 on rebuild.

yes, performance cam.  bought car like that.  rocker arms not worn, look
brand new.
pedestals look brand new.
My valvetrain noise is coming from one valve only, it appears.  this makes
me think it's a loose valve seat.


Thanks for all the help.

luke



>
> >spring but i had a friend who is a local mechanic look at it with me. He
> >hooked-up a vacuum gauge to it &even when i'am just trying to crank it
> >over,  the needle on the gauge is bouncing; which in turn indicates that
I
> >have a vacuum leak.  I did a compression check on the engine, and all
came
>
> ??? It's bouncing on an engine that's cranking??? That's a normal
> fluctuation, as the slowly-opening valves of the individual cylinders are
> causing the vacuum in the manifold to vary as they open and close. When
the
> engine is running, the pressure in the plenum apparently remains more or
> less constant, not because there is no fluctuation, but rather because the
> fluctuation in one cylinder is overlapped by the fluctuation in the other
> cylinders.
>
> >up to 190 psi.
> >But, the ª2 cylinder was slow to build up.  i haven't done a leak-down
test
> >yet.  i'm suspecting it's a valve seat.
>
> Does squirting oil in the cylinder help that condition at all? If it does,
> it's rings; if not, it's the valve.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 20:12:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

Jason Labay wrote:
>
>
> Bill or anyone else, would these companies insure a 1980? I have been
> wanting to get this type of insurance for my 80 442 W-30. While it isn't a
> classic-yet, it is very rare with only 346 of the white/gold being produced.
> - - - - - - - - - - -
> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
> 93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, SLP headers,
> Mobil 1(eng. & diff.), Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
> http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
> 80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html
>

Jason,

I believe that everyone of them will.  Any special collectible is
eligable.  The rates are a little higher if the car is less than 25
years of age though.  The rest of the rules & benefits are in place no
matter it's age.  The prices are still much cheaper than regular
insurance.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 01:21:20 -0300
Subject: Re: HEATER

At 02:05 AM 4/29/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I HAVE 1982 MODEL 98 AND I CAN NOT SHUT OFF THE HEATER. I HAVE REPLACED
>THE WATER CONTROL VALVE UNDER THE HOOD AND THE VACUME VALVE ON THE BACK
>OF HEATER ,AC CONTROL ON THE DASH. IN THE OFFF\ POSITION I STILL GET
>HEAT OUT WHEN CAR IS MOVING. THE ONLY WAY TO SHUT OF HEAT IS TO PUT
>CONTROL IN AC POSITION. THE TEMP CONTROL HAS NO EFFECT ON TEMP AT ALL.
>HELP!!!!

Take the glove box out (I imagine the 98's are similar to the Cutlass's for
that part) and back there somewhere you should find a bellcrank with a cable
attached to it.  This cable should have the other end hooked onto your
heater's temp lever.  I'd assume the bellcrank is hanging in the air.  It
should be attached to the heater box on the firewall there.  There should be
a threaded rod sticking out of the box somewhere in that area.  This is the
actuator to open and close the heater door.  The bellcrank should be
attached to this.  Most likely it's broken off it's pivot point.  A little
investigating in that area, and you should have a rough idea of what's
supposed to happen.  Good luck.


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 20:13:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 72 Olds 98 2drht

seadog wrote:
>
> Any help in going about fixing up ?
>
> George

George,

What is wrong?  Where do you want to start?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 01:26:24 -0300
Subject: Re: The new guy .....

At 12:08 AM 4/29/97 -0300, Mitch Warren wrote:
>My name is Mitch Warren and I live southwest of Ft. Worth, Texas.

Hello and welcome

>I own a Pontiac Trans AM with the "mighty 301"

Ahhh yes another F-body invades the Olds list ;-)

>So, I have located another TA ('79 Indy Pace car, 10th anniversary)
>with a 403/TH350 setup and am looking at a swap.

I love those silver 10th anniversary T/A's. Especially the 4 speed manuals
with the Pontiac 400's

>The TA was stolen and trashed inside and is nothing more that a donor car
now.8^(
> I am getting everything from the radiator to driveshaft for a reasonable
$350.  8^)

Not bad at all.......
>
>I'm not looking to make a tire melting, sound barrier breaking motor.  Just
>a healthy 250 -275hp, pump gas, daily driver Olds 403.

Shouldn't be that hard to do.....


>Any help, comments, donations, criticizms, tools, directions, recipes,
>and/or witicisms are greatly appreciated.

Need any F-body parts just send a request my way. No criticisms here.  As
for recipes I would recommend a crate LT1, but that is for another list ;-)
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, Mobil 1(eng. & diff.),
Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
coming soon: SLP headers, 150 Nitrous kit and low 12 second e.t's
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html


------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 01:52:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Fluid Questions

> Has anybody here heard of any tricks for auto transmission fluid.  I
> heard that you could use a quart of the F (F*RD) fluid and the shifts
> would improve.  This is supposedly due to the excessive slip that is
> built into the GM fluids.  I
My B&M shift kit for a TH 350 said to use type F fluid. I figured they knew
more about it than I did. That poor thing lasted over 5 years with lots of
12 sec passes on it. It even held up with NOS and a few high 11 sec runs.
Then one day when I least expected it the vega converter gave up. Of course
the little thing wasnt designed for that kind of abuse. I don't know if the
fluid had anything to do with its long life or not but I sure wouldnt
hesitate to use it again.
Walter

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:06:22 -0300
Subject: Re: The new guy .....

> Anyone go to PATE swap meet this year?  I went Friday before the monsoon
> beganand left about 11am.  Many vendors were already leaving and cash was
> definitely talking.  I guess I should've asked these questions before
PATE,
> right?  I did pick up a "6.6 Litre" shaker scoop for $20 before I left.
My
> T/A 4.9 shaker would'nt align on a 403 ......
I
I went Friday too but I was there a bit later than you. Most everthing was
covered up except the cars. I found a  72  or so Cutlas convertable with
the top leaking water into the back seat where the back window was torn. It
had $3000 on it. I decieded to pass on that one. All I really found that I
could use was a highchair for my grand daughter. I think it would have been
a great meet if the weather had just cooperated a little.
 I live about 65 miles north of F.W. maybe I will run into you some time we
go down there often.
Walter
   jones@morgan.net

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:08:24 -0300
Subject: 455 Aircleaner in 307

I got a 455 air-cleaner assembley from a ' 72 OLDS 98.  It looks like it
will fit into my 307 '81 Delta 88, but I might have to extend the top-pice
hole a little to fit the carburator screw.  This air-cleaner acomodates a
bigger air-filter so I am thinking better flow (I had a Edelbrock open
air-filter element but returened it cause I was unhappy and got my $60.00
back).  Would this change make a difference at all.  I know it would look
better, so even if it is the same, I would do it.  That OLDSMOBILE 455
ROCKET sticker might make me pull the motor out of the ' 72 as well.


Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 307, TH350
1995 Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

From: Jeff Ferraro <jtf4227@unix.tamu.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:38:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire reccomendation wanted

I realize there have been several responses, but I wanted to second
someones opinion on the Dunlop performance radial - the Qualifier GT, I
have had BFG, Goodyear, and the Dunlops(currently), and while
performance was about equal, the Dunlops definately have longer tread
life.  Also they look good.... I run these 235/60r15 on my 86 442.

Jeff Ferraro

------------------------------

From: Keith455@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:43:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Motion Hurst, OCF show

where was this car show located..I live in Florida and I didn't know anything
about it. :(  Sorry I missed it..

Keith
'75 H/O

------------------------------

From: Jeff Ferraro <jtf4227@unix.tamu.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:45:02 -0300
Subject: Hood Pad for 86 442

I need to replace the hood pad on my 86 442 (just looks nasty).
Does anyone know of a source for this item which has Olds, a rocket,
442, etc. on it ?,
I suppose I can always get the black one from Olds, auto store, or
something, but was hoping to get something like I described....By the
way, as I'll be signing off for the summer after these resposes?? thanks
for all the good info, I've got a few summer projects to tackle with
your help, i've enjoyed the list :)

Jeff Ferraro
'86 442 Gray/Silver
Texas A&M University (1 yr. closer to a chem. engineering degree!!)

------------------------------

From: Keith455@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 02:50:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Motion Hurst, OCF show

I know Bob, I bought an engine from him. He has all kinds of olds parts. I've
spend many hours talking with him. He tell's me that he has a Hurst of every
year.  Last time I was at his shop he had a '68 H/O, '72 H/O, and a couple of
Rally 350's. His son's Rally 350 was on the cover of a mag about two years
ago.
   Anyone looking for parts let me know and I'll get in touch with him.

Keith
'75 H/O
'91 GMC Syclone
Tampa FL

------------------------------

From: Pat McDermott <kor@thepoint.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 03:13:46 -0300
Subject: 69 Cutlass 'S'

Hello fellow Olds owners.
I am fairly new to Oldsmobiles, I've had a few older Ch*vys and a sweet
litle 67 mustang. I now have a 69 Cutlass 'S' Convertable, 350/350 with
a 2bbl and dual exaust. It's no snail now but as you all know it's not
enough. My Question is what can I do to spice it up just a little. I
know I need to go to a 4bbl. any recomendations on which carb. and
manifold would be best. Also would that be a good time to go to HEI,
would HEI produce a marked improvement. Or should I get into the motor
and maybe replace the Cam. and work my way out(I'd hate to do that
because the motor was rebuilt 3yrs. ago and only has 4500 miles on it.)
I'm not a millionaire so try to keep $$$$ in mind.
One last Question Any quick tips on improveing handling I have new
225*60*15 tires new shocks and the springs look ok?
I've been reading these Emails  for a few weeks and have picked up lots
already. Thanks.
And Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

 Pat McDermott
 Louisville KY.

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 03:17:20 -0300
Subject: Re: HEATER

KINSMAN wrote:

I HAVE 1982 MODEL 98 AND I CAN NOT SHUT OFF THE HEATER. I HAVE REPLACED
THE WATER CONTROL VALVE UNDER THE HOOD AND THE VACUME VALVE ON THE BACK
OF HEATER ,AC CONTROL ON THE DASH. IN THE OFFF\ POSITION I STILL GET
HEAT OUT WHEN CAR IS MOVING. THE ONLY WAY TO SHUT OF HEAT IS TO PUT
CONTROL IN AC POSITION. THE TEMP CONTROL HAS NO EFFECT ON TEMP AT ALL.
HELP!!!!

I have a 1981 Delta 88, and had the same problem.  I understand your pain.
 In my case, the problem was the mixer control (I am not sure what it is
called) under the glove compartment in the dash.  You have a 98, so the
procedure and part should be exactly the same. Pull the glove-compartment
out. Under the glove compartment (assuming you have A/C) there will be a
big box so to call it with vacum hoses going in and out of it.  There is
two openings behaind it, one for hot and one for cold air.  As you select
the temperature or on/off position, these doors open or close to create a
desired temp.  What the problem could be is that there is no vacum coming
to this system, the system is busted or the doors are just stuck in one
position.  Check all these and see if it helps.  Be careful though when you
pull this mechanism as it has a tendancy to fly appart.  The way I fixed
the problem was by going to the junk-yard, pull a simple two door mechanism
that is operated by the temp cable only.  It just shuts and opens the doors
as the temp is selected.  (don't do this if you want to keep your A/C and
auto Temp control).  The first thing you should check is to see if the temp
cable is loose at either end (the switch or this control box or if it is
just stuck).  I guess if you don't feel the tension as you move the temp
switch (or not enough tension), then you know this is the problem.  Hope
this helps.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 06:30:57 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass 'S'

On Tue, 29 Apr 1997, Pat McDermott wrote:
> Hello fellow Olds owners.

Hi Pat, and welcome.

<questions about how to spice up a '69 Cutlass 350>

You're lucky to start with that a 350 2-bbl has a TH350 behind it. That
was the last year for the Jetaway and a lot of 2-bbl cars have them.

As for the tips, a little of everything will help. Certainly a 4-bbl
setup will help. The original Q-jets work fine. One thing here is that
the '69 was the last year for the manifold-mounted choke on 4-bbls, which
can be a little troublesome (I've got the same thing on my '68 and it
works fine however). A '70 or later carb/manifold setup might be easier
in the long term. Dual exhaust would help too. HEI might make a bit of a
difference though I think it's more of a maintenance/convenience issue
more than performance, though it's certainly desirable. If you are
pulling the intake anyway, a cam isn't all that hard to swap. We did it
last year in mine with the engine in the car, though you had to remove
the rad and all of the front of the engine stuff of course. A good choice
is one of the Mondello grinds, exactly which depends on how you drive and
what rear end ratio you have. None of this stuff is *real* expensive;
just take your time and search out all the stuff you need a bit at a time.

> One last Question Any quick tips on improveing handling I have new
> 225*60*15 tires new shocks and the springs look ok?

Do you have a rear sway bar and boxed lower control arms in the rear?
That would help a lot. A larger front bar would also make a nice
addition. Without getting into swapping steering boxes, spindles, etc., in
the front end those are the easiest cures. A convertible is a little more
troublesome to try this stuff on because it tends to have some more body
flex than a closed car, but I'm sure it would help some. Good luck.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

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