To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #672


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 13 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 672

Re: Intake  Manifolds
Re: Went to junk yard
A tach that wasn't a tach
Car is running, now need tips!
Mass. Salvage Yard
Re: A tach that wasn't a tach
Non-Olds computer page
Re: A tach that wasn't a tach
OCA License Plate Badge For Sale (5/13)
Exhaust Hanger Material
Re: Exhaust Hanger Material
Re: Exhausting possibilities
Re[2]: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: OCA License Plate Badge For Sale (5/13)
Re[2]: THEFT PROTECTION
Re[4]: Saved From Demolition Derby
Re:  Stored Olds for Sale
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
RE: Re[2]: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: How to go about purchasing another 442
Can't get off of dist. list!
RE: Can't get off of dist. list!
Re[3]: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Re: Auto trans speedo gear
Re: Car is running, now need tips!
Rear disc brake mod complete
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Edelbrock carb jetting tradgedy
how to D.I.Y. porting on ª7 SB heads
Re: THEFT PROTECTION (Non-Olds)
Re: how to D.I.Y. porting on ª7 SB heads
Re: Non-Olds computer page
Re: steering wheel
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Stolen Cars in Hemming's
Re: Exhausting possibilities
Talladega
Car weight?
one more porting question
Re: THEFT PROTECTION
Accessories and Ignition Switches
Re: Car weight?
Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible
1987 442
Re: 1987 442
Re: Car weight?
Spoiler Question?
Re: Car weight?
Re: Exhausting possibilities
76 Big Block Intake continued

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 00:10:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Intake  Manifolds

At 07:13 PM 5/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I just finished swapping a 1980 350 into a 1987 Pontiac Wagon to replace an
>ailing 307.  It runs well WITH THE EXCEPTION of 45-65 MPH in overdrive and
>lock-up where I experience what appears to be a lean miss.
>
>The 350 has ports that are about twice the size of the 307s.  I think the
small
>runners of the 307 manifold is what allows GM to get away with the low engine
 >speeds and lean conditions.  Any feedback?  Any suggestions as to a good

Which manifold did you use, the 307's or the 350's? The 350's should work
well, though you'd probably have to change the size of the jetting on the
primary side. You might also want to use a non-computer carb on the car, and
see if this makes a difference.

>manifold that concentrates on low-end power that comes in some other flavor
than
>ch*vy?  Does Offy make the Dual Port for Olds with EGR?

The Edelbrock Performer would seem to fit your bill (aside from the fact
that it is virtually the only aftermarket intake for the SB Olds).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 23:25:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Went to junk yard

Hi all,

I went to the junk yard this past Sunday.  Only found one 69 Cutlass
and one 68 Delmont 88 there.  The Delmont seemed in fairly good shape.
Since this really my first attempt at finding parts I made some
blunders.

I purchased the air cleaner from the 69 Cutlass thinking it was the
same as the one in my 68 442.  Wrong!  The breather was on the
opposite side.  What a dummy I am since I remember reading a discussion
on this before.  I also got the rear side markers off the Delmont.
It looks very similar to my 68, however, the numbers are wrong.  Since
this car was a 4 door sedan and I have a 2 door post coupe, I thought
the "B" pillar moldings would fit (aside from being metal to boot).
No go on that one.  I pulled all of the stainless steel knobs out of
this car since they resembled the ones in my 68 442 (mine are plastic).
I thought these look nicer than what I have.  Only one fit.

I did get the "A" pillar post moldings from the 69 which fit fine
and a vacuum canister which seems fine.

I also tried to find a hood ornament for my 82 Delta Royale Brougham.
I thought a 1980 Cutlass' ornament would work.  Nope!  I needed rounded
ends not square along the base of the ornament.

Ya live Ya learn!

On the positive side I found three SSII rims with center caps, no
beauty rims though.

SIDE NOTE:
I can't received mail from this list at work any more.  The powers that
be have installed a firewall and with the Boeing merger, all messages
will be monitored.  I am doing this from home through my ISP.  Work
sucks sometimes.

Later everyone....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 00:51:27 -0300
Subject: A tach that wasn't a tach

I was scoping out one of the local parts yards on Saturday when I was
checking out an early 80's 4dr Cutlass.  It had a Rallye Pac but no
tachometer.  Instead there was a black plate with a Rocket logo and there
were dashes/lines around the outside of it, like  clock markings.
however there was no pin for any hands or needles.It looked totally factory.
Anyone ever see anything like this before?

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 00:47:52 -0300
Subject: Car is running, now need tips!

Well, my 75 cutlass, 455'd finally made noise (with no exhaust, a lot of
noise!).  Maybe tomorrow it may actually move under it's own power!
The under-the-hood paint job is UNIQUE, 4 colour spray paint (Artistic,
Autisitic, anti-stock, what's the diff?)  I was looking for some tech-tips:

1) I don't need any vacuum lines except vacuum advance and modulator
valve, do I?  Any special things to do besides plug off every other hole?

2) I'm using a 76 Olds98 455 carb until I rebuild my 74 Olds88 455 carb,
should I bother?  (I'm thinking of one of those, rebuild/ custom setup
rejetting places)

3) Is there performance to be gained by an open air-cleaner on such a
low-cammed engine?

Thanx.. and be sure to check out my new photo-gallery of this beast when
I get it going!

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 00:58:18 -0300
Subject: Mass. Salvage Yard

I was cruising through Uxbridge and Douglas Massachusetts tonight and
spotted this HUGE salvage yard off of  local highway 16.  Anyone from the
New England area been there?  I won't have time to check it out before I
leave and was just curious if there was anything worth while in there.

I also spotted a front clip from (I guess) a 68-72 cutlass sitting on
someone's front lawn further down rte 16 near the Webster boarder.  There
was the quarter panels and hood, and no noticeable car to put them on.  I
just figured I let you guys know about it.  Maybe it's for sale and
someone in the area would want to check on it.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 01:51:41 -0300
Subject: Re: A tach that wasn't a tach

At 12:51 AM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I was scoping out one of the local parts yards on Saturday when I was
>checking out an early 80's 4dr Cutlass.  It had a Rallye Pac but no
>tachometer.  Instead there was a black plate with a Rocket logo and there
>were dashes/lines around the outside of it, like  clock markings.
>however there was no pin for any hands or needles.It looked totally factory.
>Anyone ever see anything like this before?
>

Uhyup, got one in my basement.  Couple that with the
auto-on-floor-shift-indicator blank, and you've got one ~empty~ looking
corner of a dash!  Falls along the same lines of the old clock hole
block-off plates. Got some of the markings, but no clock...

I can scan it in if anyone ~really~ wants to see it! Wait, here's one step
better:

http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/notatak.htm

Check it out, if you want to see the plate he's talking about.


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 03:26:17 -0300
Subject: Non-Olds computer page

     Anyone ever heard of this technology?

http://www.cnet.com/Content/Tv/Stories/Mind/index.html

Supposedly an interface to the mind to control games.  Sounds like BS to me,
but it's presented as a matter-of-fact item.  Maybe we'll be able to drive
without touching the wheel someday...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 08:16:11 -0300
Subject: Re: A tach that wasn't a tach

On Tue, 13 May 1997 00:51:27 -0300 Barnacle Bill
<wreilly@acad.bryant.edu> writes:
>
>I was scoping out one of the local parts yards on Saturday when I was
>checking out an early 80's 4dr Cutlass.  It had a Rallye Pac but no
>tachometer.  Instead there was a black plate with a Rocket logo and
>there
>were dashes/lines around the outside of it, like  clock markings.
>however there was no pin for any hands or needles.It looked totally
>factory.
>Anyone ever see anything like this before?
>
>Bill Reilly
>'85 Cutlass Supreme
>
I doubt that it would have been a rally pack, more than likely a full
instrument cluster for a diesel model. I had a 79 diesel wagon that had
these guages and it also had the blank guage.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 08:29:55 -0300
Subject: OCA License Plate Badge For Sale (5/13)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

Oldsmobile Club of America license plate badge.  Gear tooth-type bolt on
circular design approximately 2-5/8 inches in diameter.  Silver colored
metal with black, red and yellow enameled OCA shield.  New condition,
sealed inside of original plastic wrapping.  $15.00, including shipping
to any address in North America.  (5/13/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 08:38:38 -0300
Subject: Exhaust Hanger Material

OK, Ladies and Gentlemen.

Who makes 'em, and where can I find, the corded rubber material for the
exhaust hangers.  My 69 H/O's original tailpipe hangers, while still
functional, are showing signs of needing replacing in the rubber
department.  It seems every manufacturer of tailpipe hangers don't have
the "correct" hangers, in that they don't bolt to the bumper bracket.
So, I figure I could get the rubber part replaced/re-riveted.  Now I
just need to find the material.

Anyone know of where I can get some of this hanger material?  Or will I
just have to buy  a close-match hanger and steal the rubber out of it?

Thanks,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 07:38:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Hanger Material

MROTHE wrote:
>
> OK, Ladies and Gentlemen.
>
> Who makes 'em, and where can I find, the corded rubber material for the
> exhaust hangers.  My 69 H/O's original tailpipe hangers, while still
> functional, are showing signs of needing replacing in the rubber
> department.  It seems every manufacturer of tailpipe hangers don't have
> the "correct" hangers, in that they don't bolt to the bumper bracket.
> So, I figure I could get the rubber part replaced/re-riveted.  Now I
> just need to find the material.
>
> Anyone know of where I can get some of this hanger material?  Or will I
> just have to buy  a close-match hanger and steal the rubber out of it?

I have a general question.  If I put new chrome trumpet tip on my
exhaust pipe, are they welded on or attached?  If attached than how?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 09:23:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>

>So the only question left is, which mufflers?  Dynomax Ultra Flow
>or Super Turbo?

To answer my own question, its gonna be Super Turbos for this
reason; Super Turbo=$54  Ultra Flow=$154.  Yikes!

Ordered the Pipes this morning.  The straight thru tail pipes
are backordered till the 3rd week of June, but Torque Tech is
sending the head pipes today.  Contacted Midas and suprise,
suprise, they dont do manderal bends. :-)  For a "normal"
bent pipe, ie two peices of 4' long 2.5" pipe, each w/
a 90 degree bend, they quoted a "off the top of their
head" figure of $110 to $150.  Seems like I should
get into the muffler business...

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http:\\www.calcon.net\~easton

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:39:41 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Cutlass electrical problem- help

Somewhere in the late 80's or early 90's, GM switched to a computer
controlled alternator...

          Charlie (or anyone else),

          My wife's 92 B**ck Regal Gran Sport (just think of it as a
          Cutlass Supreme) with the 3.8 l B**ck V6 chews through
          alternators.  I seem to recall a past thread about problems
          with W-body alternators.  Does anyone have any further info?
          Is this, in fact, a "computer-controlled" alternator, and if
          so, what exactly does the computer control?  Is there
          something I should be looking at other than the alternator?
          The voltmeter is starting to do its dance again, indicating
          that it's probably time for the annual alternator
          replacement.  Fortunately, the rebuilt alternator usually
          fails while still under warranty, so it's only the
          inconvenience of having to do the work.  (Yes, I know, I'm
          not a fan of rebuilts either - and wouldn't put one in my
          442s - but frankly I didn't want to take the time in this
          case).  Any advice would be appreciated.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30


------------------------------

From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 10:49:32 -0300
Subject: Re: OCA License Plate Badge For Sale (5/13)

tom- got the brochure yesterday.  looks great, thanks.  am looking for any
other 72 H/O goodies, especially dealer posters and the white plastic H/O key
fobs that came with the 72's when new.  can you help???

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:52:43 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: THEFT PROTECTION

>What I saw in the Summit catalog that looked very interesting was the Grant
>removable steering wheel system.  Does anyone have any experience with
>these.  I have the tilt column and assume I would have to use a Grant wheel
>(no, I don't want to sell my steering wheel).
>
>Thanks in advance for any help
>
          Back when I was a student at MIT and had my 68 442 on campus
          (in the car-theft capital of the world - metro Boston), I
          actually used the same removable steering wheel concept as
          the Grant unit.  The difference is that I had installed a
          70-style factory 4-spoke wheel on my 68 (the hub fits the
          steering column but is slightly larger in diameter - I lived
          with it, but it turns out that the 68 three-spoke wheel hub
          can also be used with the 4-spoke wheel).  With a simple
          Phillips head screwdriver, I was able (with practice) to pop
          off the horn button and remove the horn contact and wheel
          within about 90 seconds.  You may want to install a toggle
          switch to disable the horn while you do this, especially
          when reinstalling the horn button.

          The beauty of this arrangement is that you have a factory
          steering wheel (OK, a non-correct 4-spoke in a 68, but it
          really looks good.  This would also work with the correct 68
          3-spoke "wood" wheel), without the questions of the
          adaptability of the Grant unit.  In addition, if someone
          really wanted to steal the car, they could go and buy a
          Grant wheel.  Good luck trying to find a factory 4-spoke
          that easily.  I actually came up with this idea in 1978
          (long before the Grant unit was on the market), after my 67
          Cutlass daily driver had been stolen and I was forced to
          pull the 68 442 out of storage and drive it.  I also added a
          hidden kill switch under the dash, just in case.  The only
          drawback is that on two occasions, the rocket scientists who
          tried to steal the car (before realizing the steering wheel
          was missing - DOH!) got even by ripping off the stereo (and
          busting up the dash in the process).  Fortunately, at the
          time a 68 dash was still available from the dealer.  I
          finally resorted to hiding the stereo, which solved that
          problem.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30




------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:57:39 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: Saved From Demolition Derby


Besides, the more time she spends in the garage is less time she spends on
the telephone!

(Sorry if that was out of line....)

          ...But painfully true ;)

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 01:54:20 -0300
Subject: Re:  Stored Olds for Sale

Got this message from my web page - here you go - older Olds fans!

Reply to:  Mkr1481@aol.com

I know of a 1955 Olds 88 that has approx. 32,000 miles on it.  It has not
been driven since 1978 and has been in a garage all that time.  I don't know
if the engine will turn over or if it is stuck (frozen).  It was my
grandmother's car all those years.  It is from Ohio and has some rust on it,
but is in fairly good condition.  If interested, write me back.


Bruce


------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:06:57 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

Want to get Your car stolen ?

Follow the rules below:

- - if You install a thief alarm, don't tell anybody about it.
  Dispose the stickers instead of fastening them in side windows where
the
  thief might see them
- - to make selling of the stolen car easier, don't sandblast any
identifications
  on any glass surfaces
- - buy as cheap as possible steering wheel lock and make sure it looks
like it
  would be a snap to disable or remove it.
- - also make it look like this cheap thing would be the only measure You
took
  against the thief
- - don't park the car directly under street lights or at any place where
it
  can easily be seen


Want to get Your car broken ?

Follow the rules below:

- - leave as many as possible valuable objects in clearly visible
  places inside Your car
- - a wallet on the dash is a must. It is irrelevant if it contains money
  or not
- - most effective places are near side windows at top of the dash
- - for thief alarm see above
- - lock the doors and close the windows
- - leave a suitable piece of plumbing somewhere near the car


Charley Buehner wrote:
> They have the technology already (theoretically) to triangulate the position
> of any cellular phone, whether calling or not.  Just being powered up

A transmitter can be located using the triangle measurement but that
would not
work in a dense city where there are too many reflective surfaces.
Measuring
a moving object by this method is a nasty job too.

A cellular network constantly tracks the phones participating it. In
dense
cities the diameter of one cell is something like one kilometer. Near
the densiest
parts the diameter often goes below 500 metres. A more exact positioning
is achieved
when the phone moves from one cell to another. These transitions occur
at the borders
of so called service areas. The phone measures the field strengths of
all the cells
it can "see" and tries to use the best of them.

There is no problem to track a phone inside a single block. This is no
theory,
it is used daily by Finnish authorities.

> triggers a communication link between it and the tower, as I recall (could
> be wrong there, it's been a while)  I remember a few years back, a story
That's right. Don't steal a cellular phone, it could ruin Your car it
left inside !


Some hints to make a thief loose his appetite

- - If You can't afford a real thief alarm or don't want to install one
(for originality
  reasons) use a fake alarm. A blinking red LED (Light Emitting Diode)
is very cheap
  and runs with minimal current consumption.

- - A fake video camera keeps the professionals out of sight. A red led
helps here too.

- - Make security marks on all glass surfaces. In Finland this can be done
in special
  companies. The resulting marks are very stable and hard to get rid of.
Also this
  type of marking looks not too bad yet is visible enough to be noticed
by the thief.
  These marks will make the selling of the car almost impossible.



Olds content:
I asked in the previous mail about my wobbling harmonic balancer.
I measured the wobble and (believe me or not) it is about 4mm.
This part needs replacement.

Is this a simple replacement job or are there some traps down there ?

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:19:56 -0300
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Cutlass electrical problem- help

Hi Joe

My daughter's 89 Cutless was going though alt. the same way. After I =
replaced the fuseable links it seems to be OK (only been a few weeks =
though). It is not a computer controlled alternator. I have never worked =
on one that was. I have a 88 and 92 Seville and I dont think they are =
computer controlled. I will look in the service manuals tonight to make =
sure. Is there any way to check what is failing in the alt's thats going =
bad? That might provide a clue.


BTW, sorry we never got togeather when I was in Washington. Work keep me =
to busy to have any fun. :-(

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the...Past
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Tue, May 13, 1997 9:52 AM
Subject: Re[2]: Cutlass electrical problem- help
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Somewhere in the late 80's or early 90's, GM switched to a computer
controlled alternator...

          Charlie (or anyone else),

          My wife's 92 B**ck Regal Gran Sport (just think of it as a
          Cutlass Supreme) with the 3.8 l B**ck V6 chews through
          alternators.  I seem to recall a past thread about problems
          with W-body alternators.  Does anyone have any further info?
          Is this, in fact, a "computer-controlled" alternator, and if
          so, what exactly does the computer control?  Is there
          something I should be looking at other than the alternator?
          The voltmeter is starting to do its dance again, indicating
          that it's probably time for the annual alternator
          replacement.  Fortunately, the rebuilt alternator usually
          fails while still under warranty, so it's only the
          inconvenience of having to do the work.  (Yes, I know, I'm
          not a fan of rebuilts either - and wouldn't put one in my
          442s - but frankly I didn't want to take the time in this
          case).  Any advice would be appreciated.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30




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Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:39:41 -0300
From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re[2]: Cutlass electrical problem- help
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
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------------------------------

From: TURBO38@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:18:02 -0300
Subject: Re: How to go about purchasing another 442

i have a 70 w-30 that is mech. sound with damage on the left quarter. email
for more details.

thanks in advance,
turbo

------------------------------

From: Karl Davlin <kdavlin@bigfoot.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:46:20 -0300
Subject: Can't get off of dist. list!

Now what!

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 12:16:31 -0300
Subject: RE: Can't get off of dist. list!

Send subscribe or unsubscribe requests to:

majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca

Include one of the following as the only text in the body of the message:

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No Subject

Bobby

70 442
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Tue, May 13, 1997 11:01 AM
Subject: Can't get off of dist. list!
To: Oldsmobile

Now what!



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From: Karl Davlin <kdavlin@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Can't get off of dist. list!
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------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 14:04:17 -0300
Subject: Re[3]: Cutlass electrical problem- help

A couple of years ago at a Car Quest distribution center open house, an
alternator rebuild rep was extolling the virtues of the their redesigned
parts in the CS (?) (W-body alternator) model. Parts redesigned
specifically to combat the high underhood temps. I can't remember the
company's name, unfortunately.

Maybe you can find the right counter guy to find this brand or another with
the redesigned parts. But then if that makes the alt last 6 months past the
warranty . . .

David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

- ------------
          My wife's 92 B**ck Regal Gran Sport (just think of it as a
          Cutlass Supreme) with the 3.8 l B**ck V6 chews through
          alternators.  I seem to recall a past thread about problems
          with W-body alternators.  Does anyone have any further info?
          Is this, in fact, a "computer-controlled" alternator, and if
          so, what exactly does the computer control?  Is there
          something I should be looking at other than the alternator?
          The voltmeter is starting to do its dance again, indicating
          that it's probably time for the annual alternator
          replacement.  Fortunately, the rebuilt alternator usually
          fails while still under warranty, so it's only the
          inconvenience of having to do the work.  (Yes, I know, I'm
          not a fan of rebuilts either - and wouldn't put one in my
          442s - but frankly I didn't want to take the time in this
          case).  Any advice would be appreciated.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:15:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Auto trans speedo gear

Another option might be to have your little gear thingy re-geared.  There's
a place here that does it.  They have a little counter thing that you put
on in place of the speedo gears then you drive exactly one mile and take
the reading.  Then they use that reading to put the correct gears in.
Supposedly quite accurate, since it takes into account not only the rearend
gearing, but also the tire diameter.  So really, unless you're running
tires that are the same diameter as the ones that were originally used on
your car, your reading will not be acurate even if you did get the gears
and adapter specified in the manual...  The cost for this custom gear setup
is I think around $40.  Anyone else heard of this method?  You might have a
hard time finding someone who does it if you're looking for cars.  Ask the
places that cater to the 4x4 crowd... since they are the ones who usually
go and put huge tires on their beasts and throw their speedo readings way
off.

Sorry for the long-winded post and bad grammar.  It's one of those days.

- -Blaine

- ----------
> From: Robert J. Lavey <rjlavey@rmci.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Auto trans speedo gear
> Date: Monday, May 12, 1997 4:58 PM
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> I'm getting ready to swap the 3.08 rear end in my '68 convertible 442 for
a
> 3.42 (non-posi) unit I had laying around.  My Service Manual says I will
> need 18-37 speedometer gears with a 0.7692:1 adapter.  The gears are no
> trouble: the driving gear is already an 18 and I can still get a 37
driven
> gear from GM.  The problem is the adapter.  I have never actually seen
one
> let alone know where to get one.  The GM dealer said the part was
> discontinued in 1983.  Has anyone out there seen one of these adapters?
Has
> anyone got one for sale (or know where one can be bought)?
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Bob
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>  Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
>  13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
>  Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:11:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Car is running, now need tips!

At 11:47 PM 5/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, my 75 cutlass, 455'd finally made noise (with no exhaust, a lot of
>noise!).  Maybe tomorrow it may actually move under it's own power!

Congratulations! Nice to have a heartbeat again, huh?

>1) I don't need any vacuum lines except vacuum advance and modulator
>valve, do I?  Any special things to do besides plug off every other hole?

Splurge the $1.50 and buy a set of *real* vacuum caps to plug off all those
other holes. Nothing looks cheesier than a bunch of 3" long hoses with bolts
in them sticking off an intake and carb. You could also unscrew the vacuum
fittings from the intake and replace the holes with allen-headed plugs, if
you wanted a clean look. You may want to make provisions for hooking up the
EGR valve, if emissions testing is a reality in your area.

>2) I'm using a 76 Olds98 455 carb until I rebuild my 74 Olds88 455 carb,
>should I bother?  (I'm thinking of one of those, rebuild/ custom setup
>rejetting places)

The '74 is probably a better starting point; you could have someplace
custom-jet it for you, or you could buy one of those Edelbrock tuning kits
for $95 and do it yourself. You may have to do it yourself again anyway, if
you end up changing other things on the car or motor, so I'd say do it
yourself.

>3) Is there performance to be gained by an open air-cleaner on such a
>low-cammed engine?

It might hurt driveability in cold weather. How do you intend to use the
car? A dual-snorkel air-cleaner would be the best bet.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 11:51:00 -0300
Subject: Rear disc brake mod complete

I'm pleased to report that my 442 is back on the road after an extended
time on jack stands.  I finally found time to finish the Wilwood rear
disc brake installation.  I was happy that the parking brake set up that
 I fabricated worked.  I drilled a hole in the brake pedal arm that was
approximately halfway between the two existing holes to give a better
feeling pedal geometry.  All in all, I heartily endorse Wilwood's
products on the basis of quality and design of components.

However this was not a direct bolt up modification, since it was
designed for a C-clip axle, but the modifications involved were pretty
simple.  I am gradually breaking in the new pads, so it may be a while
before I can report on severe braking capabilities.  Also, pedal travel
is a little longer, so I may investigate finding a master cylinder with
a larger bore to move more fluid.

And for those interested in the 12" front disc brake conversion, the PN
for the station wagon knuckles I used is 369055LH/RH.

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:57:39 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

>Or you can just do what my dad claims to have done...  Rig up an extra
>battery and ignition coil in the trunk and hook it to the body of the car,
>using a remote to turn it on and off.  Of course, that's probably not such
>a good idea these days, even if it would work.

All right, I'll bite: How _would_ it work? You only get a jolt from the
coil when the field collapses; it's not a continuous output like a high
voltage power line. And how would it be wired to the car? And how would
the offender complete the circuit just by touching the car? (Keeping in
mind that the car is on rubber tires, for starters...)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 14:51:01 -0300
Subject: Edelbrock carb jetting tradgedy

I posted awhile back that my '71 cutlass blew its 350 while exploring
the far end of the 160mph speedo (128).  I thought it was oil starvation
to the rod bearing, but upon teardown last Sunday, there was a 1/2" hole
in my 30,000 mile old TRW forged piston.  My neighbor mechanic informed
me that it was from a too lean condition, and that I must have had the
wrong jets in my carb.

when I get it back together again (after a slight hone job and a new
piston), what's the best and easiest way to get the jetting right on my
Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb?

Any help would be appreciated.

greg

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 15:00:06 -0300
Subject: how to D.I.Y. porting on ª7 SB heads

I'm rebuilding my 350 again (see my carb jetting post).  I have the
original ª7 '71 smog heads with stainless valves and a 3 angle grind.
Before I put them back on, I want to do some porting to improve flow and
HP.

I'm looking for detailed instructions that an average dumb kid (me at
22yrs. old) can do it with a die grinder.

I've found the EGR bump (I think), it looks like a small bump in the
upper corner of each exaust port.  I know I'm supposed to remove that.

How about gasket and port matching?  How is it done?

What kind of grinding tools do I need?

I know that these aren't the best heads for flow, but I want to just
improve upon them. Afterall, they are only going to be run for another
year until my 455 is built up!

thanks ahead of time for any information (the more detailed the better)

- -greg

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 15:46:45 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION (Non-Olds)

 > >Or you can just do what my dad claims to have done...  Rig up an extra
> >battery and ignition coil in the trunk and hook it to the body of the
car,
> >using a remote to turn it on and off.  Of course, that's probably not
such
> >a good idea these days, even if it would work.
>
> All right, I'll bite: How _would_ it work? You only get a jolt from the
> coil when the field collapses; it's not a continuous output like a high
> voltage power line. And how would it be wired to the car? And how would
> the offender complete the circuit just by touching the car? (Keeping in
> mind that the car is on rubber tires, for starters...)

Hey hey.  I never said it would work. ;)  you know how parents are...
always exagerating things so that you think they were actually cool when
they were your age.  He also said that he tapped his exhaust pipe for a
spark plug and adjusted his carb to run rich.  Then when someone he didn't
like pulled up behind him, he'd rev the engine, flip the switch and roast
the paint off their hood.  I didn't believe that story, either.  Then there
was the time that he was serving in the Army in Vietnam and got caught in a
time warp and went back in time a few hours.  And lets not forget the time
that he was abducted by aliens... and the time when he and his family were
nearly obliterated by a flaming meteor the size of a barn, but were spared
when it suddenly changed course and went flying back into space...

(Sorry for the non-olds content)

- -Blaine

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 16:04:03 -0300
Subject: Re: how to D.I.Y. porting on ª7 SB heads

At 02:00 PM 5/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm rebuilding my 350 ...I have the original ª7 '71 smog heads

Well, it's kinda tough to call the '71 heads "smog" heads; ports and
chambers were unchanged from the '70 ª6 heads. But heck, if you don't want
them, I'll take those pieces of junk off your hands when you build your 455.
And I tell ya what, I won't even charge you for removal... ;)

>Before I put them back on, I want to do some porting to improve flow and
...
>I've found the EGR bump (I think), it looks like a small bump in the
>upper corner of each exaust port.  I know I'm supposed to remove that.

Also blend it in to the roof of the port. There is also a kind of depression
next to the AIR boss (it wasn't used for EGR, though it may unintentionally
have had that effect) that you will need to blend in to the rest of the port
roof as well.

>How about gasket and port matching?  How is it done?

You scribe the outline of the port from the gasket on the surface of both
the head and the manifold, and then grind the entire port up and out to that
point.

>What kind of grinding tools do I need?

Mondello offers an entire kit (~$70), with the cartridge rolls and the
carbide burrs you would need. Well, I thought I'd save some money and go
with Eastwood's "Porting and Polishing Kit" (~$40), and then pick up the
carbide burrs locally. The burrs actually cost me about $15 each, so I ended
up spending more. :(  Go with the Mondello kit, unless you find a good
cheaper source for everything.

The carbide burrs are like rotary files on the end of a shank, and you use
them to remove material; they come in a few different shapes, such as round
and almond-shaped, as well as triangular. I found myself using the round one
most often (wore it out, in fact, on one set of heads).

The cartridge rolls are just strips of sandpaper rolled-up like a jelly
roll, which screw on to the end of a shank; as you use up the abrasive, that
bit of the roll breaks loose, revealing new abrasive underneath (I didn't
know this, and got concerned when bits of these things started flying off
the tool at 22,000rpm!) They don't really remove much material, and you'd go
through a *lot* of them if you tried to port a head with them alone. You use
them for final polishing and blending, and perhaps to even out the surface.

>I know that these aren't the best heads for flow, but I want to just
>improve upon them. Afterall, they are only going to be run for another
>year until my 455 is built up!

These heads flow fine for a street car, and with any porting you'll be
flowing much better than a stock ª5 head. Unless your cam is really wild,
however, and you're turning 6000+rpm, just removing the AIR bumps,
teardropping the valve guides and smoothing out the transition from the
valve seat to the port will be sufficient. No sense in trying to increase
port volume or such.

One other thing; do the porting before you do the valve job; one nick of the
valve seat (and if you work from that side of the port, you *will* nick the
seat) and you've got to do it over anyway.

Needless to say, you should also completely wash out the head after porting
it; metal particles and shavings will be *everywhere* after your porting job!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 16:20:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Non-Olds computer page

On Tue, 13 May 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> Supposedly an interface to the mind to control games.  Sounds like BS to me,
> but it's presented as a matter-of-fact item.  Maybe we'll be able to drive
> without touching the wheel someday...
>

Yea, that sounds about as fun as driving an electric car

no thanks

Dustin

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 06:27:51 -0300
Subject: Re: steering wheel

- ----------
> Luke Hogan wrote:
> >
> > ----------
> > > Does anybody know a place where I find a good steering wheel for my
'70
> > > 442.
> > >
> > > Sorry about sending the welcome message the first time.
> >      Richard,                                                     A
friend
> of mine has a sport steering wheel ,  is
> > that the type you want ?
> >                          I don't  know if he will let it go.  I can ask!
> >   Luke
>
> Who made it?
>
> YES
>
> what color?        if yes how much?
>
> It took so long for me to reply because the mail didn't come in.

                   It is a 1970 -72 Olds (Factory) 4 s/s spoke steering
wheel.  It came of a 70 Olds 442.   I haven't talked to him yet .
If your still interested e-mail me .  PS. Color black grip, no horn button,
no hub, just the wheel only.

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 17:22:41 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

On Tue, 13 May 1997, Mike Frederick wrote:

> Charley Buehner wrote:
> >
> > > I have been pondering theft protection for my '68 442 convertible.
>
> > I've always used an alarm system...
>
> You betcha, Charley.  For those that may be financially handicapped,
> here's my handy, dandy (that is, cheap) theft deterent:

basic alarms really arent that expensive (stay away from the really cheap
stuff)  I think you can get one with ignition kill, shock sensor, couple
ground sensors (for doors,trunk,hood) and usually a couple "option" slots
(for door locks,trunk release)  for around $100-150  if your good with
electrical stuff the basic alarm is really easy (although intimidating &
time consuming)   prices for installation varies ALOT   depends on who you
know  but beware when having someone else wireing on your car their
standards might not be up to yours  I've seen some ~nasty~ messes of
wiring from idiots who claimed to know what they were doing

I think retail on my alarm, a Code Panther PVS 4 was around $500 for
everything (carryout) I've got the remote start and window module besides
the "base" alarm which does the door locks, trunk release,interior
illumination...... and of course a bunch of other stuff I havent used yet

Dustin

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:32:29 -0300
Subject: Stolen Cars in Hemming's

I don't remember who it was that had their car stolen recently, but this
may be of interest to them.  I found this on www.hmn.com

***************************************************

Please DO NOT send Stolen Car Notices to us as e-mail. See next
paragraph for details:

Stolen Car Notices will be published in Hemmings Motor News and on this
web site at no charge. Please send us all
pertinent details, which must include: make, model, VIN, year, color of
body and interior, license plate number (and state) plus
any other prominent identifying features. Theft must have been reported
to the police. Please include a copy of police report.
These notices are restricted to collector cars and hobby-related
vehicles. Send information to:
Stolen Cars,
Hemmings Motor News
PO Box 256,
Bennington, Vermont 05201

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 22:50:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

- ----------
> From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
>
> >So the only question left is, which mufflers?  Dynomax Ultra Flow
> >or Super Turbo?
>
> To answer my own question, its gonna be Super Turbos for this
> reason; Super Turbo=$54  Ultra Flow=$154.  Yikes!
>
Whow, those prices seem a little high!! I paid $50 each for the 3" Super
Turbo's in my Olds and I paid $27 for the 2 1/2" Super Turbo in my long
gone Pinto.....

Who quoted you those prices?????

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 19:55:11 -0300
Subject: Talladega

Hey Bill Culp,

  You ever been to the Auto Fair show at Talladega.  I think its this
weekend. Any Oldsmobiles show up there?

Mike
Kennesaw, Georgia

------------------------------

From: Richard Fuqua <raf@cmpu.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 20:18:34 -0300
Subject: Car weight?

Hello:

Can someone please tell me the approxmiate gross weight:
1969 Olds 442 - with following accessories,
turbo 400 automatic
455 engine
ac/ps/pb

Getting ready to move and I need to see the trailer I'm going to rent is
strong enough to carry this car.

Thanks,
Richard Fuqua
'69 442

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 20:44:41 -0300
Subject: one more porting question

I now understand port/gasket matching, and that the A.I.R. bump needs to
be removed, now I have two more questions:

1) what exactly is "teardrop" porting the intake port?

2) should the intake runner of the head stay rough cast to help the fuel
atomization, or should all the surfaces be ground smooth and shiny?

thanks,
greg


oh, also, how much of a power increase should I expect with a mild build
engine (flat top pistons, Crane 260/272 cam, roller rockers, headers,
performer intake and carb, MSD/Mallory ignition)?

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 23:48:49 -0300
Subject: Re: THEFT PROTECTION

Dustin Cross wrote:
>
> basic alarms really arent that expensive ... for around $100-150

Agreed, assuming you HAVE the bucks.  The relay kill was simply meant as
a very low cost way (<$10) to add some deterent -- not replace an alarm.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 16:49:27 -0300
Subject: Accessories and Ignition Switches

This is in relation to the topic the other day about the accessories
working with the ignition switch off.

I was a at an auction the other day and bought a bunch of Olds stuff.  I
got a complete set of Service Guilds from 1958 to 1971 (the 1954 to 1957
ones got past me somehow...)  Anyway I reading the issues at work today
that pertain to my '67 and I came across the following.  I remember this
problem as involving a '66, so this sounds applicable.

>From the November, 1966 issue of The Oldsmobile Service Guild Product
Training Manual:

ACCESSORIES WILL NOT SHUT OFF

If a situation is encountered where the accessories continue to operate
after the ignition switch is turned to the "OFF" position, the
difficulty could be the result of a defective blower motor relay.

The blower motor relay is used on air conditioning equipped cars to
improve "HI" blower operation for increased air movement.

When the blower speed switch is moved to the "HI" position, the relay is
energized closing the relay points allowing the blower motor to be fed
directly from the junction block.

When the ignition switch is turned to the "OFF" position, the relay
points should open.  If for any reason the points do not separate, due
to some defect in the relay, current would continue to be supplied to
the blower motor allowing it to run.  Current could also feedback
through the resistors, master switch and to the accessory terminal on
the fuse block allowing any accessory which is turned on to operate.

A quick check to determine if the relay is defective is to turn off the
air conditioning and heater system which opens the master switch.  If
the accessories now shut off the relay is defective.  If the accessories
continue to operate, the ignition switch could possibly be at fault.
Tapping the relay will sometimes temporarily correct the condition.
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:28:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Car weight?

At 07:18 PM 5/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Can someone please tell me the approxmiate gross weight:
>1969 Olds 442 - with following accessories,
>turbo 400 automatic
>455 engine
>ac/ps/pb

Figure around 3700-4000lbs, with gas and oil and spare tire.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

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From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:44:13 -0300
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass Convertible

Thanks everyone.

            I thought they should be filled solid also. I good freind of mine
asked the question of me as he has a 71 convertible and wondered if they were
filled or not. Thanks for the quick and accurate responses.
                                                                      Steve

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From: JimmyDeee@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:47:37 -0300
Subject: 1987 442

Could someone please tell me what axle (as in ª of bolts & ring size) & what
ratio my 1987 442 would have. What about any bolt on or easy performance
tricks
for my 307. Any help would be appreciated.

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From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 22:02:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 442

>
> Could someone please tell me what axle (as in ª of bolts & ring size) & what
> ratio my 1987 442 would have. What about any bolt on or easy performance
> tricks
> for my 307. Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
  Install a W-30 cam, small tube headers, with 2" exhaust pipes, an
aftermarket intake, a Holley vari-jection, and remove the computer. Install a
pre computer electronic distributor recurved to the cam, and you should see
about 250 hp.  A 2500 rpm stall converter will give you a good launch off the
line.

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From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 22:02:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Car weight?

At 08:18 PM 5/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello:
>
>Can someone please tell me the approxmiate gross weight:
>1969 Olds 442 - with following accessories,
>turbo 400 automatic
>455 engine
>ac/ps/pb
>
>Getting ready to move and I need to see the trailer I'm going to rent is
>strong enough to carry this car.
>
>Thanks,
>Richard Fuqua
>'69 442
>
>

    I have a '69 4-4-2 with the same except AC and it weighs 3512.  You can
probably add 100 lbs. for the AC.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

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From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:51:12 -0300
Subject: Spoiler Question?

I have a question concerning a spoiler I have. It is IDENTICAL to the =
NOS spoiler I put on my 70 442, with the exception that it only has 2 =
studs on each side. I purchased it around 1980 and the paint was visibly =
old at that time. I would think this was before reproductions. The =
pedestals are exactly the same in appearance and construction (solid, =
not hollow) as my NOS one. The bolt holes connecting to the spoiler are =
the same, it's just that there are 2 studs, not 3. Does anyone know =
where this came from?  I have never seen the underside of the spoiler on =
a 69 H/O. Do they have 2 or 3 studs? This has been driving me nuts for =
years. Can anyone help?

Jim Rabideau=20
70 W30

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From: "dayc" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 15:29:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Car weight?

The 1969 442 weighed in at 3450, with the convertible in at 3540. (curb
weight)
Figures from Dennis Casteele's book on Olds
and add approx. 295lbs +/- to get fueled weight so 3745 or so

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com___________________________________________________
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: Car weight?

At 07:18 PM 5/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Can someone please tell me the approxmiate gross weight:
>1969 Olds 442 - with following accessories,
>turbo 400 automatic
>455 engine
>ac/ps/pb

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 22:45:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhausting possibilities

On Tue, 13 May 1997, Steve B. wrote:
> > From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
> > To answer my own question, its gonna be Super Turbos for this
> > reason; Super Turbo=$54  Ultra Flow=$154.  Yikes!
> >
> Whow, those prices seem a little high!! I paid $50 each for the 3" Super
> Turbo's in my Olds and I paid $27 for the 2 1/2" Super Turbo in my long
> gone Pinto.....

If you're brave enough to use them, JC Whitney has 2 1/2" Super Turbos
for under $30 each...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

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From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 22:42:50 -0300
Subject: 76 Big Block Intake continued

My thanks to Bob Barry who wrote;

>  That sounds like your heater control valve. It threads into a large
opening
>  in the rear water passage, right? You'll need that, though you may be able
>  to use the one from your '65 as well. I've had bad luck with the plastic
>  replacement aftermarket ones; go with a metal one if you need another.
>
>  That's the EGR valve. You don't have to hook it up; its mere presence
there,
>  disconnected, won't affect performance, though you could remove it and
>  replace it with a block-off plate. It would just be cosmetic, however, to
>  remove it.
>
First of all, the FAQ lists a manifold which has OLDSMOBILE stamped on the
front as being available for a few years until 1976.

Now, a heater control valve? I did not notice one on my manifold, but then I
have been doing most all work on the driver's side. Are you sure it existed
in 1965? Daren, do you have one?

What exactly does EGR stand for?

Excremental Gag Reflex?

Extreme Gearheads Rule?

If this could be beneficial (but then it is pollution control, right?) is
there a way I could hook it up?

I am not positive that my Holley is a spreadbore, but I assume that any doubt
means that it is not one. No part of the bottom flares out. LIST-1850-3  0030
is on the back of the horn (I am told it identifies the model ª). Apparently
Mondello sells an adapter for $6 that is intended for QJet to Edelbrock
(Holley ready) intake. I will call him tomorrow to see if I can use it upside
down.


Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL


Excellent Gymnastic Routine?

Egregious German Roadster?

Evil Grape Ralph?

Extinct Gorilla Reserves?

Entertaining Germanic Republicans?

(the possibilities just boggle the mind)

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª672
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