To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #611


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 14 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 611

RE: Let's get technical
Re: Funny Stuff
Re: Re-chroming prices and locations?
Re: Oil filler tube cap
Hall's Phone Number
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  a little long
Hall's Phone Number
66 4 BBl Switch
1970 W30 on TNN
Re: 70 olds 's
Re: 88 Info
Re: 88 Info
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Tranny Went Kablooie!
Re: 1970 W30 on TNN
Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
Re: Car covers
Re: Carburetor Fires
Re: Cutlasses, 442s, and others, oh my...
Re: Hall's Phone Number
Decal Catalog
Re: New Member
Re: New Member
Re: 1970 W30 on TNN
What's in you oil?
Parts I'm taking to Carlisle and Helicoils 101
Re: GM Electrical Connectors (Was Re: Electrical Question)
New Decal Catalog
Re: Tranny Went Kablooie!
Fan-forced Rear Window Defoggers (Was Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner)
Distributor Recurve Questions
Re: New Member
The silence is deadening
'86 442
test (no need to read)
Re: Rallye 350 and stuff
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: Tranny Went Kablooie!
RE: 1970 W30 on TNN
Re: Is list down?
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
e mail list
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: Carburetor Fires
rearend ratio
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: rearend ratio
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: rearend ratio
Re: '66 Dynamic 88 Power Seats & Production ª's
Re: 1990 Vintage
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
67 convert spotted
Re: 70 olds 's
Re: rearend ratio
Power Valve Holley 750
Re: 1990 Vintage
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: 1990 Vintage
GM Electrical Connectors
Re: Carburetor Fires
Oldsmobile Custon Cruiser V8 Diesel
Re: GM Electrical Connectors
Specifications for a 1981 Delta 88
Handling Problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:44:22 -0300
Subject: RE: Let's get technical

Please forgive me if this response is late.  I've been on vacation, painting
by 1989 9C1 Caprice for Black/White to just white.

Regarding Splitfire spark plugs.

I have used these plugs and really like them.  I splurged and bought a set
several years ago for my 1991 Ch*vy P/U.  I had just put AC plugs in and they
had approx. 5K miles on them.  When I switched to the Splitfire plugs, my
mileage went from 13 city/17 highway to 15city/19highway. 2 mpg increase in
both places!  $50 for the set of plugs sounded like a lot until I saw that
kind of mileage increase.  I figured as much as I drive they paid for
themselves in about six months.  I don't know if they made much difference
horsepower wise but the truckl did seem to run better.  I think with the
computer controlled engines you will see gains like these.  I don't know how
well they work in older engines.

Cecil
1991 W-41

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:39:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Funny Stuff

Back in 78 I owned a 68 4-4-2 that was a Tunpike Cruiser originaly.  The
original 400 was gone and I had installed 365hp 455.  It would fly if
you could get the tire (non posi) to hook up.  I had been to my father's
and grandmother's moving sale one day and had that poor Olds loaded with
a few car parts and some household stuff we had bought.  The car looked
like a low-rider, it was so packed.  I was setting at a light on a more
or less deserted four lane street on my way home when a new C*maro pulls
up.  It was two guys out cruising and having fun.  When the light went
green I floored the Olds and shot away.  No wheel spin due to the load.
At the next light the C*maro pulled up by me again.  I looked over and
said,"they don't make them like they used to do they boys".  At that
point the driver was ready to race.  I noticed the C*maro was a four
speed so I expected it to be a little quicker than usual.  I dropped the
Olds into low and we left at the next green.  I was kind and stayed
beside him until he shifted to second.  I then accelerated the rest of
the way and then I shifted to second.  I shot by him like he was parked.
At the end of second I shifted to high and let off.  The C*maro finally
went by and the driver would not look my way as I waived to them. (I did
use all of my fingers!)  Oh how I miss that 68.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:57:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Re-chroming prices and locations?

>
>My '53 Olds Super 88 needs some new chrome on its exterior parts.  I'm a
>student so I don't have a lot of money.  Is there a low cost or look-alike
>alternative to high rechroming prices I've been quoted?  If anyone has any
>information, I would be greatful.
>
>                                                        Curious,
>                                                                Youngin'
>                                                                '53 Super 88
>
>
>There is a Mike Aldana that brokers for a chrome shop in Mexicali, Mexico
that has done some chrome for me that turned out great.  The price is almost
1/2 of what I was quoted in the States.  They do Steel parts only - no pot
metal.  You can reach him at: maldana@quix.net


>
>
Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:54:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil filler tube cap

At 03:45 AM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Pop quiz hot shots!
>>
>> My service manual (1965) says that the gunk on the oil filler tube cap
>> (breather?) should be dissolved in kerosene, and after that giver a
treatment >> of 10W-30. >> >> (And let's please not have another oil thread!)
>> >> I have to presume that some of you have experience with this procedure.
My >> question would be how much oil? I understand that the oil acts as sort
of a >> filtering element for dust etc. so the procedure itself makes some
sense. I >> have seen (in Chevvy Craft etc.) paper filters on filler caps. Is
this a >> better method? >> >> Karl Aune >> 1965 Dynamic 88 >> Chicago, IL >
>Karl, > >The advantages to the oil filtering system is that it is constantly
>reusable.  The paper one requires a replacement paper regularly.  These >are
a little hard or expensive to get now.  I would stick w/the oil >system. > >I
would think that the use of an oil squirt can or a small spoon might >be the
less messy.  It shouldn't take much.  None should drip out when >the cap is
upright. > >Bill Culp >Decatur, Alabama > > In the days of olde, when knights
were bold, and Ch*vrolet only made a 6 cylinder, almost all Ch*vrolets at
least had an oil bathe aircleanere.  They were a constant headache, but were
probably better filters than the paper element ones of today.

Also, I think the army may still have some oil bath air cleaners for their
vehicles intended to run in the sand dunes.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:59:37 -0300
Subject: Hall's Phone Number

Can someone get me Halls vintage Olds phone number?

Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:10:34 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  a little long

OL>Daren-  a couple of points here to make.  The spark voltage is only
OL>going to be as large as required to overcome the resistance caused by
OL>the plug gap. Each cylinder will be firing at slightly different
OL>voltages because of resistance differences. (plug wire length, condition
OL>of plug etc.)

OK I agree

OL>You can't increase or decrease the firing voltage
OL>according to just the speed of the engine assuming all other resistances
OL>are the same.

This is a quote from Bracket Racing USA comparing stock and Performance
Distributors hei systems. "A coil is least efficient at idle, so a stock
design will usually use a high-turns-ratio, low-current-draw coil to
minimize the coil temperature and battery drain. Such a setup favors
good cold cranking output for easy starting. It will not favor high rpm
capability because a low current drain is the result of a higher
resistance in the primary coil.Because this higher resistance limits
current, the coil charges more slowly. The coil's inductance (it's
resistance to the rate of change of current flow) also limits how fast
it will charge. The lower the inductance the faster it charges. A
typical stock hei coil will not fully charge between sparks at much over
3200 rpm, so spark degradation sets in from there on." This article has
a graph that shows that a stock hei starts to miss fire at about 4200
rpm. This is because of a lack of firing voltage because the engine
speed doesn't allow the coil to charge between sparks. So rpm can have
an effect on firing voltage. A lot of muscle cars from the '60s and
early '70s are more than capable of 4200 rpm. So if you put an hie on a
car and plan on putting the petal on the floor. Hopping up the hei would
be a good idea.

OL>Put your car on an ocilloscope or have it scoped watch
OL>the secondary plug firing voltage.  Punch the accerator and the voltages
OL>will peak.

At what rpm?

OL>Hold the rpms at about 2000 and the voltages will drop and
OL>level off.

Try 5000 rpms?

OL>Now pull a plug wire off for second and you will see
OL>obviously maximum resistance created and the voltage for that cylinder
OL>will skyrocket (no pun) to the coils maximum design voltage.

You got me confused? What's maximum resistance? I would assume an open
circuit would be maximum resistance. In that case there would be no
voltage because there would be no place for the voltage to go to.

OL>Yes NOX does increase when you decrease HC and CO. Note: these points
OL>apply to distributor ignitions and not nessesarily to the new
distributorless OL>computer controlled ones.

Daren

daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:21:22 -0300
Subject: Hall's Phone Number

OL>Can someone get me Halls vintage Olds phone number?

OL>Bill Goodnight
OL>idaholc@primenet.com
OL>Boise, Idaho

Do you mean Hall's auto salvage in Soldier, Kansas?    913-924-3748 or
913-924-3315 mon. - sat. 8-5

Daren

daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:52:15 -0300
Subject: 66 4 BBl Switch

Curtis,
Recommend that you switch to the four barrel when you can, it's a really
good motor when you allow it to breathe like that.
cf


>Hey guys and gals.  This server is great.
> I have a 1966 Olds Delta 88 four door Hardtop
>It is white with blue interior
>It has a 425 2BL and a turbo hydramatic tranny
>I have just recovered the seats and door panels and replaced the carpet.
>one problem i have is the rear deck in the rear window. there was
>a leak in the window and the trim on the deck is rotted (the carpet like
>stuff)  does any one have any ideas what i could replace this with?
>
>Alst would any one recomend switching to a 4Bl carb and intade manifold?
>
>Curtis Stanley
>66 delta 88

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:49:36 -0300
Subject: 1970 W30 on TNN

Olds people-

Did anyone see "Ready for the Road" last night at 11:30 on TNN
last night?  There was a '70 W30, Gold w/Black stripes, Black interior, dual
gate, and the owners name was Steve. Is he on this list?

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 12:11:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds 's

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>

>Now that I've thought about this for a while, you know how the '68 and '69
>Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupes were the 89 fastback body style?  I'll bet
>the original '70 design was to be that too, but was changed to the 57
>notchback design.  When you think of it, Olds was the only division to use
>the 57 body style on an A body.  Actually they were the only division to
>use the 87 body too.  Chevrolet, Buick and Pontiac all used 37 notchback
>bodies for their hardtop coupes.

Does the '69/'70 Grad Prix and the '70 Monte Carlo have any relation
to the Cutlass Supreme notchback style?

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 01:51:36 -0300
Subject: Re: 88 Info

I received this inquiry off my web page - I'll forward it here for all the
experts on numbers and other info to forward to our Olds-brother.

 A friend of mine drives a '73 olds delta 88 royale
convertible, used in louisiana, and shipped to holland (europe) in
approx. 1994. The only problem is that we can't find any information
about this car here in holland, so if you got any information like
engine and that sort of things we would be eternaly greatfull!!!!!

Thanks,
Richard
spacewup@inn.nl

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 12:18:48 -0300
Subject: Re: 88 Info

I received this inquiry off my web page - I'll forward it here for all the
experts on numbers and other info to forward to our Olds-brother.

 A friend of mine drives a '73 olds delta 88 royale
convertible, used in louisiana, and shipped to holland (europe) in
approx. 1994. The only problem is that we can't find any information
about this car here in holland, so if you got any information like
engine and that sort of things we would be eternaly greatfull!!!!!

Thanks,
Richard
spacewup@inn.nl

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 12:24:04 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

Take a sturdy paper clip, and bend a very small hook on the end of it.
push it down and turn it so the hook catches in the groove under the
clip.  yank and you should have it.

- -greg

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 12:52:06 -0300
Subject: Tranny Went Kablooie!

Hey everyone,

     Well, this past Sunday my transmission (in my '87 Cutlass,200-4R)
decided it had enough. I pulled off my road and gave it some gas and it felt
like I was pushing a brick wall. Gave it a little more gas and it started to
jerk and finally as I began to go up a hill, it went. I had no drive in any
gear. It was like I had neutral in every gear including reverse. I checked
the fluid and it seemed fine except that it looked a little yellow. Could I
have antifreeze leaking into my tranny fluid?
     The funny thing was that it just seemed to happen. Friday it was fine.
Saturday it started acting up. I pulled out of my driveway and it didn't
want to shift out of first gear. when it finally did, it jerked real hard
and went into 2nd. All day I kept hearing these clunk kind of noises when I
was driving around town. It would happen after I would stop coasting and
give it a little gas. It was so bad at one point that my girlfriend actually
looked out the back to see of something fell off. A couple more symptoms
were: it didn't want to shift to overdrive right away. It felt like I was
pushing a brick wall when I'd accelerate from a dead stop (meaning I'd have
to have it almost to the floor to get it to move) but didn't seem too bad
after it shifted into 2nd.
     Well, that's all I can think of right now. Sorry this got so long but I
wanted to try and be as detailed as possible. Can someone tell me what the
problem might be? I know that's pretty tough considering it could almost be
anything. Sounds to me like I'm looking at that rebuild I've been wanting to
do. Thanks in advance!

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:45:36 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 W30 on TNN

I saw it.  Ready for the Road was also on earlier in the day, about 11am
central, when I saw it.
My name's Steve....ya ya that's the ticket :^^)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:14:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I hope someone who owns a '68 or '69 Cutlass with a rear defogger can
> help me out. I want to install one in my '68 and have picked up the

I always thought that the rear defogger was those lines that traverse
the back of the window.  I didn't realize that it was a fan.

Chris

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:17:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Car covers

Hi all,

Just a word of caution.  I purchased a $25 car cover from WalMart
which is the kind that allows water to evaporate (it isn't water
proof).  Well since my car is sitting in my drive way, covered, the
cats decided to walk on the car and put a hole right through the cover.
Nice of them isn't it.  I guess since the cover is on all day and
all night, the material became compromised.  Ya live ya learn.

Chris

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:38:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Carburetor Fires

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, C.R.F. wrote:

> If you are working on an engine, and have the air cleaner off, and discover
> a underhood fire, in the carburetor, the best thing to do is crank the
> engine, until it starts.  This will suck the fire back inside the engine
> where it can be handled without damage.

   Assuming it will start and the float's not stuck open - I've
been there, done that.

   Even better is to keep a CO2 fire extingusher handy.   No
damage to the motor, even if applied while it's running.

> The Wiz

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:40:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlasses, 442s, and others, oh my...

Hi all,

This past Saturday I must have seen a boat load of 68 Cutlasses/442s.
I was amazed to see so many around.  Made me kind of sad since mine
is home collecting dust.  I did see a realll nice 68 442 that was
a goldish-greenish color, beautiful condition, pulling a trailer!
I thought to myself "How could anyone put a hitch on such a nice car!"
The young gentleman driving the car and an older gentleman (maybe his
father) were in the car didn't seem to want to talk much.  I can't
resist extolling the virtues of someone else's Oldsmobile.  Anyway
this car was in mint condition, as far as I could tell.  I saw the car
on Lakewood Blvd in Downey California.  Is that individual on this
list?

Later..

Chris Sparks (68 442)

P.S.  I seems I may have to pay for the repairs myself since the
insurance company is reallllllly dragging their feet.  Oh well...

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 14:21:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Hall's Phone Number

At 10:21 AM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>OL>Can someone get me Halls vintage Olds phone number?
>
>OL>Bill Goodnight
>OL>idaholc@primenet.com
>OL>Boise, Idaho
>
>Do you mean Hall's auto salvage in Soldier, Kansas?    913-924-3748 or
>913-924-3315 mon. - sat. 8-5

It is my understanding that Hall's officially closed its doors on April 1st
and that the remaining cars were going to the crusher.  Is this not true?



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 14:38:27 -0300
Subject: Decal Catalog

Olds guys and gals-

My new 20th anniversary decal catalog has finally arrived, I
have a lot of new items, including production figures '64-'84. For a catalog,
please send $3.00 to:

Mark Cornea Reproductions
P.O. Box 531445
Livonia,  MI  48153-1445

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:16:09 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Watch out, here come the W-31 owners.

I own a 69 W-31 with the original engine, transmission and rear end.
Unfortunately, it has the incorrect carb.  I have some information on
W-31's, all three years, and may be able to help you out with any
questions.  Let me know.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:29:49 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Bryan,
     It seems we have several things in common.  First, I own a numbers
matching 69 W-31 and would be interested in some info on these cars also.
I have some information on W-31's I can share.  Second, my brother recently
graduated from Wyoming Tech and will soon, if not already, be ASE
certified.  He enjoyed Wyoming Tech and learned many things and I'm
constantly asking him car related questions.  If you have any questions
about Wyoming Tech or anything else, let me know and I'll ask my brother
about Wyoming Tech.  Incidentially, he's from outside of Chicago and
Laramie was a little bit of a culture shock for him.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 14:58:55 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 W30 on TNN

Saw it too, nice car. Asked myself the same question.


Fernando
'72 442

Mark Cornea (R) wrote:
>
>         Olds people-
>
>                 Did anyone see "Ready for the Road" last night at 11:30 on
TNN > last night?  There was a '70 W30, Gold w/Black stripes, Black interior,
dual > gate, and the owners name was Steve. Is he on this list? > >
___  ___ >                                               /     /    / /  / >
/ __  /  --/ /  / >        Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/
/__/ Red > >              (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 14:57:49 -0300
Subject: What's in you oil?

I have read quite a bit of discussion about engine oil on the list lately
and thought I would share something that I have been using for about 10 years.

I maintain a fleet of company cars when I'm not 'crusin the Olds and have
been sending in oil samples foy anaylsis .on a routine baisis to a place
called Cleveland Technical Center in Cleveland Ohio 1.800.726.5400 fax
1.216.383.9633.

They send me a "12 pak" of empty sample bottles with mailing lables, and
during an oil change I take a sample, not the first drop, and not the last.

This sample (about 4 onces) goes into their small mailing container along
with info as to what type of vehicle, where the fluid came from, (engine,
trans, gear case) weight of oil, miles on unit, miles between oil change.

Drop in the mail and they send back a complete anaylsis in about 1 week.

If I send them oil that has anti freeze, or something that indicates major
trouble they will call sooner and advise.

The report you will receive will show you  in parts per million the content
of:

Iron - indicates cylinder wear, rings crank,bearings
Chromium - indicates rings, rods, platings
Copper, indicates bushings, bearings, thrust washers (it is additive in oil
too) Tin - indicates bearings, bushings Aluminum, pistons, bearings, pumps
Nickle, valves Maganese, trace elements in liners, rings titanium,vanadium -
trace elements contaminants sources like silicon,boron.soduim,potassium.

water in oil

glycol - (antifreeze)

It will tell you if there is any fuel in oil, the viscosity so you know if
it broke down under heat and a few other items.

Multiple test results over years can give you a good picture of how your
engine is wearing and when something bad is about to happen.

The cost was about $12 per sample (I did buy last kit of 12 awhile ago) but
you call call for current pricing info.

I don't work at/for them - just use it a lot and like it.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 14:55:00 -0300
Subject: Parts I'm taking to Carlisle and Helicoils 101

Well, Spring Carlisle is this week.  I have rounded up some of my parts
inventory for sale including:
'70 W31 intake
455 O4B Edelbrock intake
Disc brake knuckles from my '70 442
A very nice set of W/Z dual exhaust manis (these are nicer than the ones
on my car!)
One '70  W machine red fender liner (passenger side)
Two (2) 7-blade thermostatic clutch fans
Two (2) '69 Toronado oil pans/windage tray/stud setups

If you are going to Carlisle on Friday 4/18, you can identify me by
looking for the guy pulling the small green garden cart, or email me
privately (r_mullen@merck.com) and arrange a meeting.  Anything left
over after Carlisle will be posted here for sale.

The set of W/Z manifolds and fenderwell I got were from the '70 W30 that
I've been trying to buy.  I finally got the guy to sell some parts he
had.  There is still a '70 Cutlass hood and coupe decklid that he has if
anyone is interested.  I would be willing to drive a few hours from the
Phila. PA area to deliver it.

Interestingly enough, one of the exhaust manifolds has big piece of
casting flash inside of it that obstructs the exhaust manifold opening.
This could be easilty corrected with a die grinder, but it casts some
shadows on the "select fit" W30 assembly process.  Also, three of the
four stud mounting holes on the manifolds have studs broken off in them,
which I had to drill out (breaking $11 worth of bits in the process) and
I will Helicoil them tonight.  FWIW I recommend doing this to all of
these manifolds prior to installation, even if the threads are still
usable.  The stainless steel Helicoil insert is the way to go.  I also
buy an extra long stainless stud and thread it up into and then out of
the hole and put a 3/8" nut on the top.  This provides extra stability
in the rare event that the Helicoil pulls out.

On the junkyard scene, I acquired two '69 455 Toronado engines
(complete) on Friday.  If any of you Toro owners need brackets/engine
mounts/distributors specific to the Toronado, let me know (privately) as
I have no use for them.
Scott Mullen
'70 442 and lots of parts

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 15:06:46 -0300
Subject: Re: GM Electrical Connectors (Was Re: Electrical Question)

>From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
>On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Andrew C. Green wrote:

*ahem*  No, I didn't, Charley; 'twas somebody else... ;-)

>> >> Does anyone know the right name for these and if they can be bought in
>> >> the aftermarket?
>> >
>> >I believe they refered to as softshell connectors probably made by AMP
>> >(Harrisburg, PA).  Check http://www.digikey.com/ as a source.
>
>I'm not sure ('cuz I just stumbled into this thread) but the word this
>reminds me of is the GM Weatherpack connectors.  These are the ones used
>on most of the computer applications (sensors, etc.)  and have the little
>rubber insulator boots inside.  Not sure if that's the connectors you're
>referring to or not, but for what it's worth...

The Weatherpack connectors have superceded the old ones in newer cars.
They were used on the sensor wiring back in the early '80's and eventually
used throughout; my '93 P-mobile is all Weatherpack-type connectors.

Good thing, too; I think they're a better design, and you can pop them
apart without tools to get the contacts out for cleaning. Okay, not
_easily_, but at least you don't need to mess around with a little
screwdriver just to get the contacts out... plus of course you are a
lot less likely to need to do this anyway, since they keep the moisture
out a lot better.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 15:19:53 -0300
Subject: New Decal Catalog

Olds guys and gals -

My new 20th Anniversary Decal catalog has finally arrived. I
have many new items, including production figures from '64-'84. For a catalog,
please send $3.00 to:

Mark Cornea Reproductions
P.O. Box 531445
Livonia,  MI  48135-1445

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 15:26:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Tranny Went Kablooie!

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, Andy Geeting wrote:

> the fluid and it seemed fine except that it looked a little yellow. Could I
> have antifreeze leaking into my tranny fluid?

This happened to me, and both the tranny oil and A-freeze were pink, plus
it bubbled over my rad.  (I had just put in a new tranny, and the rad
split internally before the tranny even moved the car, the oil return
system must've been whacky)


> were: it didn't want to shift to overdrive right away. It felt like I was
> pushing a brick wall when I'd accelerate from a dead stop (meaning I'd have
> to have it almost to the floor to get it to move) but didn't seem too bad
> after it shifted into 2nd.

I've also done that, it felt like the brakes were locked.  I want to
rebuild the tranny that did this, is that wise (I can get other cores!)

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 15:28:55 -0300
Subject: Fan-forced Rear Window Defoggers (Was Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner)


>The switch mounts on the underside of a ledge on the
>dashboard that juts out above the radio. Since I have to cut a hole, I
>need it to be in the right place.

Wouldn't you have to pull the panel from the dash first anyway? If so,
you might find outlines molded in the backside showing where the accessory
switches should go. Is there an illustration in the owner's manual? The
dash pictures they put in usually show a fully-optioned dash, even though
it probably won't be clear enough to take measurements from...

>I'm also wondering how this thing works. It has a 2-speed switch for low
>and high fan speeds, which implies a resistor somewhere in the circuit.

Resistor wire, perhaps.

I have, for no apparent reason, no fewer than six complete and unused
rear defogger kits at my house; I'll dig one out and see how the low
speed is achieved. (Okay, I was given these things by a friend who found
them in the garage of his new house. They're complete NOS kits for dealer
installation in '70's-era Nova/Omega/etc. and Toronado models. Think I've
got about four of the former, two of the latter.)

Any offers?  :-)

>Does anyone know where the resistor might be? The wiring diagrams in my
>factory service manual don't even mention the rear defogger, and the only
>reference to it is for installing it in the full-size cars.

Perhaps the fact that it could be a dealer-installed kit would explain
why you can't find it in the service manual... just guessing, though...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Matthew Butler <matthewbutler@oscsystems.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 16:36:47 -0300
Subject: Distributor Recurve Questions

Howdy All!!!

Was wondering if one of you all could explain the art of recurving a
distributor.  I assume that it is as simple as adding new springs and
wieghts to the distributor, but which weights and springs to add is the
question.  I have a dual point Mallory Distributor(Mechanical) using one
set of points triggering a MSD 6AL box.  Cam is an Elgin 290/300, 112
lobe, 224/234 @ .5, 496/520 lift.  Offy tunnel Ram dual Holley 600's.  The
engine is in a Jet-boat and I only plan on turning the engine in the 5000
range.  When I bought the boat this distributor was on it, but I thought that
I would try and understand what benifit a different curve would/could
give me.

Thanks for the advice!!!

Matt Butler

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:48:44 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Curtis A. Stanley wrote:
>
> Hey guys and gals.  This server is great.
>  I have a 1966 Olds Delta 88 four door Hardtop
> It is white with blue interior
> It has a 425 2BL and a turbo hydramatic tranny
> I have just recovered the seats and door panels and replaced the carpet.
>         one problem i have is the rear deck in the rear window. there was
> a leak in the window and the trim on the deck is rotted (the carpet like
> stuff)  does any one have any ideas what i could replace this with?
>
> Alst would any one recomend switching to a 4Bl carb and intade manifold?
>
> Curtis Stanley
> 66 delta 88

Welcome Curtis,

The material is much like cardboard.  Many upholstery people have this
in sheets.  You simply use your old one for a pattern & cut it out.
Vinyl paint to mathc your trim can be used to color it.

I would recommend changing to a Q-Jet & 4-barrel manifold.  You will
need a doner car as you need the air cleaner, throttle cable, some hoses
for patterns, & other miscellaneous items.  Get everything that you can
as it is easier to store the extras than to find the missing parts.

Expect as good a mileage as you get now plus the power afforded by the
Q-Jet.  Consider getting your distributor curved too as well as an
adjustable vacuum advance for maximum tuning.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 16:55:41 -0300
Subject: The silence is deadening

Hi all,

Is the list down.  Hadn't heard much all day.

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 16:53:05 -0300
Subject: '86 442

I had just finished pestering a local olds parts dealer today and was on
my way out when I spotted a burgandy 442   very sweet! I looked it over
and it is in very good shape except some less than great painting (touchup
or minor bodywork)  it shows 36000mi which they say is original   they are
asking $12,900 for it    this seems high to me,  is it?

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 17:04:18 -0300
Subject: test (no need to read)

Actually, the whole web seems rather slow today. Is everybody trying to
download the necessary tax forms to get them done in time? (the way that I
am...?)

Few messages this morning, and none this afternoon, so I figured I'd check.

Sending at 4:11pm
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 14:19:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Rallye 350 and stuff

All this Rallye 350 talk reminds of one I remember from years ago. It was
aboutthe mid 70's and I was a 'lil boy. There was a yellow (what else?) Rallye
350 *abandaned* on the street in Philly. It was real nice at first. Then stuff
started to dissappear on it. It still breaks my heart to this day.

On another note- I went to a swap meet in S.Jersey over the weekend and got
30 mpg in my Olds on the highway *w/o an OD automatic*. There was a 70 442
convertible for $14k and a 30k mile 87 Cutlass Salon for $3500 there.

=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 17:57:49 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

At 12:24 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Take a sturdy paper clip, and bend a very small hook on the end of it.
>push it down and turn it so the hook catches in the groove under the
>clip.  yank and you should have it.
>
>-greg
>
>
>
Having done this, it even works better if you bend two heavy paper clips,
and work on both ends at once.

However, you do get a lot of bang for the buck, and a lot less agravation
with the genuine GM tool made for the purpose; ie, lots of bang, very few
bucks.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 18:06:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Tranny Went Kablooie!

At 12:52 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>
>     Well, this past Sunday my transmission (in my '87 Cutlass,200-4R)
>decided it had enough. I pulled off my road and gave it some gas and it felt
>like I was pushing a brick wall. Gave it a little more gas and it started to
>jerk and finally as I began to go up a hill, it went. I had no drive in any
>gear. It was like I had neutral in every gear including reverse. I checked
>the fluid and it seemed fine except that it looked a little yellow. Could I
>have antifreeze leaking into my tranny fluid?
>     The funny thing was that it just seemed to happen. Friday it was fine.
>Saturday it started acting up. I pulled out of my driveway and it didn't
>want to shift out of first gear. when it finally did, it jerked real hard
>and went into 2nd. All day I kept hearing these clunk kind of noises when I
>was driving around town. It would happen after I would stop coasting and
>give it a little gas. It was so bad at one point that my girlfriend actually
>looked out the back to see of something fell off. A couple more symptoms
>were: it didn't want to shift to overdrive right away. It felt like I was
>pushing a brick wall when I'd accelerate from a dead stop (meaning I'd have
>to have it almost to the floor to get it to move) but didn't seem too bad
>after it shifted into 2nd.
>     Well, that's all I can think of right now. Sorry this got so long but I
>wanted to try and be as detailed as possible. Can someone tell me what the
>problem might be? I know that's pretty tough considering it could almost be
>anything. Sounds to me like I'm looking at that rebuild I've been wanting
to do.
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Andy Geeting
>'87 Cutlass Supreme
>'88 Cutlass Supreme
>'74 Delta 88 convertible
>'78 Caprice wagon
>'36 Plymouth coupe
>
>
>
When your TH200 will only go into reverse, you have had in the not too
distant past very low oil! (Or possibly burned out oil, TH's require an oil
change at about 25,000 miles).  You've burned out the clutches.  I had this
happen once, the oil cooler fiting at the bottom of the radiator cracked
while I was out.  I noticed the oil on the ground, (it was too late already)
and got out a wrench, and some teflon tape.  Tefloned the joint, added some
Dexron, and started to drive home.  Got about 2 miles away, and it stopped
going forwards.  I drove home in reverse.

Anyway, throw away the TH200, get a TH350 and go.  It is a direct replacment
as long as you get all the TH350 stuff, ie, dipstick tube and dipstick,
flywheel cover.  If you buy a rebuilt, make sure it has a factory kick down
cable.  The adjustable cables at the top, do not secure as well as the
factory.  Also, there are two different atachment clips at the carb., make
sure you have the one that matches.  It is a bolt out, bolt in proposition.

The Wiz

P.S.  When the TH200 went in my '84 Delta, a rebuilder traded me even; my
core TH200 for a TH350.  Why I don't know, but that tranny now has 90,000
miles on it, 1/2 of which behind a mild 455 and it still is operating fine.

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 18:34:38 -0300
Subject: RE: 1970 W30 on TNN

=09
Olds people-

Did anyone see "Ready for the Road" last night at 11:30 on TNN
last night?  There was a '70 W30, Gold w/Black stripes, Black interior, =
dual
gate, and the owners name was Steve. Is he on this list?


It was really weird. I had the show on in the morning while I was =
reading the paper. I still am usually in touch to the show that is on. I =
completely missed it. My wife says, "look, your 442 is on TV."  By then =
I missed it. I caught it at night, though. From the outside, it looks =
exactly like mine. Difference is that on the inside, mine has gold =
interior and a 4-speed. It was really nice to see.

Jim

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 18:41:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Is list down?

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
> Hi Greg,
>
> Is the Olds list down.  I hadn't received hardly anything today.
>
> Chris Sparks

Apparently chebucto.ns.ca had a system hiccup sometime today. Little mail
was processed from about 2:00PM EST until just recently. Hopefully it is
fixed now.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: ASLY10A@prodigy.com (MR BOB M MASELLA)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 19:29:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

Re the 71 cutlass wheelwell moldings, what conditioin are they in?
Please respond to asly10a@prodigy.com. Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 18:46:06 -0300
Subject: e mail list

Greg

Bob here I got this address from Doug Kitchener He called a E mail list Is
that a list of all Oldsmobilers with E Mail if it is let me know I'm
interested If not let me know what he's talking about

Thanks

BOB

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 18:53:37 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

At 14:10 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the doorpanels
>but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the window
>handle regulator.
>Any suggestions?
>
  In a pinch you can use a piece of solid wire such as a piece of coat
hanger and form a small hook at the end of it.  By sliding the hook behind
the handle and then turning it 90 degrees you should be able to snag the
clip and pull it off the crank stem.
  The clip looks like this and slips into two slots cut into the handle stem
and clasps the slot in the regulator shaft.

                   \    /
                    )  (
                   /    \
                  (______)

 In order to replace it, slide the clip back onto the handle stem but only
as far as the flat area right before it would snap into the slots.  Put the
handle back on the regulator and then with a small screw driver or other
such tool that would fit behind the window crank push the clip into place.


 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 19:06:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Carburetor Fires

> If you are working on an engine, and have the air cleaner off, and discover
> a underhood fire, in the carburetor, the best thing to do is crank the
> engine, until it starts.  This will suck the fire back inside the engine
> where it can be handled without damage.

I had this happen when I was first trying to fire (no pun
intended) the 394 in my '60 after my rebuild.  It kept backfiring through
the carb and would'nt start.  Turned out I had the distributor in 180 off
(And I swear I double checked it when I timed it!!)  Anyway, after one of
the backfires, I got out of the car and
found the carb on fire!  AAA!!  I was using a U-Haul pad (one of the blue
blankets) for a fender cover and just used that to smother it.  I got it
out very quickly, and no harm was done.  Still, it was kind of unnerving
to get out of the car and find a fire under the hood.


Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 19:35:32 -0300
Subject: rearend ratio

Whats the best way to find out your rearend gear ratio?

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 19:51:29 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

At 07:29 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Re the 71 cutlass wheelwell moldings, what conditioin are they in?
>Please respond to asly10a@prodigy.com. Thanks
>

        Which ones are you inquiring about? The short ones or long ones? The
set I have are in very good condition.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 20:32:57 -0300
Subject: Re: rearend ratio

At 07:35 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Whats the best way to find out your rearend gear ratio?

Take the rear end cover plate off, and look at the numbers on the ring gear,

for example if you see 41 10  that means 41/10 = 4.10 gear ratio.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 20:44:08 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, Glenn Connors wrote:
>  In order to replace it, slide the clip back onto the handle stem but only
> as far as the flat area right before it would snap into the slots.  Put the
> handle back on the regulator and then with a small screw driver or other
> such tool that would fit behind the window crank push the clip into place.

I learned recently that you can reinstall the cranks by snapping the clip
all the way onto the crank and then just pushing the crank back on to the
shaft in its desired position. No need to mess with the clips, they spring
open over the splines on the shaft then seat themselves in the slot.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "jallen" <jallen@wave-net.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:40:01 -0300
Subject: Re: rearend ratio

divide the pinon gear teeth into ring gear teeth..

- ----------
> From: Yorcoy@AOL.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: rearend ratio
> Date: Monday, April 14, 1997 5:35 PM
>
> Whats the best way to find out your rearend gear ratio?
>

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 20:50:15 -0300
Subject: Re: '66 Dynamic 88 Power Seats & Production ª's

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, Greg Yonge wrote:

> Can anyone tell me if Driver's side power seats were an option on '66
Dynamic 88's? > > Also, does anybody have any production ª's for 1966
Convertible Dynamic 88's? > >

Yes, a 6 way power bench seat would have been available on a '66 Dynamic,
but I don't think this is a very common option in the low end models.

'66 Dynamic convertible production was 5540.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: David Lincoln <lincoln@ebicom.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:12:07 -0300
Subject: Re: 1990 Vintage

I recently traded my 1980 Cutlass Supreme Broughm (bought it new, had
123k on it, engine never opened up, and it didn't leak anything!) in on
a used '93 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with 55k miles.  I think I'm
going to like the convertible, it has the 3.4 l V6, leather, CD player,
and all the other bells and whistles, but I have been having some
problems with it, and would like some help if possible.  I bought a set
of factory shop manuals for it, even though I gave up trying to auto
mechanic work years ago, after some failures.  I don't like to do
something if I can't do it RIGHT!

The previous owner told me that he had just put on a new generator,
battery, and starter, but the generator went bad on mine less than a
month after I bought it.  Dealer charged me an arm & a leg to replace,
because they gotta' pull the axle to get to it!  I noticed that this car
has a generator cooling duct. My question is this... Is this a common
weak spot for this engine/car?  Is the cooling duct inefficient?  Any
one with any experience with this?

The car also has an oil leak.  Dealer said it was leaking (they think)
where the the distributor would be ( if this car had a distributor), and
there is a plate with an "O" ring there.  Said that they would have to
tear it down, and remove the rear head to get to it!
Seems like drastic measures to fix an oil leak!  But he said it's about
time to replace the timing belt anyway.  Does anyone know much of the
anatomy of these engines?  Is this the likely spot to develop an oil
leak on this engine?

Also, does any one have production numbers on Cutlass Convertibles?  I
saw a posting of 464 '90 models built.  How about '93?  Is this car
likely to appreciate in years to come?

Thanks in advance for any help...
Dave Lincoln

'93 Cutlass Convertible (Red, black top, graphite leather, FUN TO
DRIVE!  But is starting to eat me alive in repair bills!)

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:09:57 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

At 20:44 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, Glenn Connors wrote:
>>  In order to replace it, slide the clip back onto the handle stem but only
>> as far as the flat area right before it would snap into the slots.  Put the
>> handle back on the regulator and then with a small screw driver or other
>> such tool that would fit behind the window crank push the clip into place.
>
>I learned recently that you can reinstall the cranks by snapping the clip
>all the way onto the crank and then just pushing the crank back on to the
>shaft in its desired position. No need to mess with the clips, they spring
>open over the splines on the shaft then seat themselves in the slot.
>
   Jeesh, and I've been doing it like that for years.  Never to old to learn
an easier way though.

 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Steve <smickle@ismi.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:14:55 -0300
Subject: 67 convert spotted

If anyone in this area (Metro Detroit) is interested, I saw a 67 Cutlass
rag-top for sale, it appears to be in decent condition.  It's been there
for a long time, I'm told, so I assume the price is high versus it's
condition.  I didn't stop though....   It's sitting on a front lawn on
the east side of Beech Daly between Six and Seven Mile roads.  If I get
a chance in the next few days I'll get a closer look.

Steve

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:47:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds 's

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:

> From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
>
> Does the '69/'70 Grad Prix and the '70 Monte Carlo have any relation
> to the Cutlass Supreme notchback style?

Duh!  Yes, both the Grand Prix and the Monte Carlo are 57 notchback
styles.  Two of my favorites and I forgot all about them.  I believe I
read somewhere where the Monte is considered an A body, but the Grand Prix
is not?

> -Jeff

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:46:08 -0300
Subject: Re: rearend ratio

At 08:32 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 07:35 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>Whats the best way to find out your rearend gear ratio?
>
>Take the rear end cover plate off, and look at the numbers on the ring gear,
>
>for example if you see 41 10  that means 41/10 = 4.10 gear ratio.
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
With the inspection cover off, you can also simply count the teeth, if the
nembers are not present, or difficult to read.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Drew K. Bengert" <dk.bengert@sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:55:07 -0300
Subject: Power Valve Holley 750

Can anyone tell me what the power valve on a Holley 750 does, how to
replace it if it is blown, and could this cause the car to backfire, and
pop.

Thanks Drew

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:00:51 -0300
Subject: Re: 1990 Vintage

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, David Lincoln wrote:

> Also, does any one have production numbers on Cutlass Convertibles?  I
> saw a posting of 464 '90 models built.  How about '93?  Is this car
> likely to appreciate in years to come?

'93 convertible production was 6751.  The DOHC engine was an approx. $1100
option.  Don't know how many were produced with it though.  Any
convertible, especially an Oldsmobile ;), is eventuall going to
appreciate in value.  Unless it self destructs first.  I would think the
DOHC will be more desirable than the standard 3100.  And it's the right
color.

> Dave Lincoln

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 21:45:00 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

Snips

>                   \    /
>                    )  (
>                   /    \
>                  (______)
>
> In order to replace it, slide the clip back onto the handle stem but only
>as far as the flat area right before it would snap into the slots.  Put the
>handle back on the regulator and then with a small screw driver or other
>such tool that would fit behind the window crank push the clip into place.
>
>
> Glenn
> '69 4-4-2
>

Your reinstallation is a little bit the 'hard way.'  These handles and
retainers were designed to have the 'snap lock' fully seated and then simply
snap the handle into place.  And your done.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:05:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 1990 Vintage

The car also has an oil leak.  Dealer said it was leaking (they think)
>where the the distributor would be ( if this car had a distributor), and
>there is a plate with an "O" ring there.  Said that they would have to
>tear it down, and remove the rear head to get to it!
>Seems like drastic measures to fix an oil leak!

sounds a little fishy to me...i would consider taking it somplace else.
i've never heard of a car where you must remove a cylinder head to get the
distributor out. i would venture to say they could be full of you know what.

------------------------------

From: David Nye <jdnye@norfolk.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:24:27 -0300
Subject: GM Electrical Connectors

Andrew Green was asking for information on GM electrical connectors. I
just finished restoring the harness on my '71 Cutlass. I found that the
Au-ve-co Products line had the exact replacement terminal as well as the
plastic insulator (single, double, headlight, and even voltage regulator
insulators). These parts are available through most fastener companies,
the only problem is that if they're not in stock the terminals come 50
to a box and insulators are 25 to a box. I've listed the part numbers
below.
Au-ve-co Products
Terminal8774Net price 50 @ $9.12
Single insulator8777  25 @ $5.43
Dual Insulator12564  10 @ $5.23
Regulator Pigtail11444  10 @ $19.89

I have a complete catalog. I anyone would like me to check out
something, let me know.

------------------------------

From: michael leiter <leiter@airmail.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:24:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Carburetor Fires

Scott R Clark wrote:
>
> > If you are working on an engine, and have the air cleaner off, and
discover > > a underhood fire, in the carburetor, the best thing to do is
crank the > > engine, until it starts.  This will suck the fire back inside
the engine > > where it can be handled without damage. > >         I had this
happen when I was first trying to fire (no pun > intended) the 394 in my '60
after my rebuild.  It kept backfiring through > the carb and would'nt start.
Turned out I had the distributor in 180 off > (And I swear I double checked it
when I timed it!!)  Anyway, after one of > the backfires, I got out of the car
and > found the carb on fire!  AAA!!  I was using a U-Haul pad (one of the
blue > blankets) for a fender cover and just used that to smother it.  I got
it > out very quickly, and no harm was done.  Still, it was kind of unnerving >
to get out of the car and find a fire under the hood. > > >
Scott >                         1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98 Thats all fine and
dandy untill the carb backfires and throws flaming gas all over the engine...
Be careful it has happened to me several times... michael

------------------------------

From: Lloyd <equitygroup@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:27:11 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile Custon Cruiser V8 Diesel

I have a 1982 Oldsmobile Custom Crusier with nearly 400,000 miles on it.
The original engine was very bad and required constant repair, but
Oldsmobile replaced in 1990 with a new engine and that engine has
performed very well with nearly 300,000 miles and running vell today.

My question is where can I get another new Diesel V8 engine?  My local
dealer says that they are not available anymore.

Sincerely,

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:06:36 -0300
Subject: Re: GM Electrical Connectors

Could you give us an address or phone ª to order our own catalog?
Thanks,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

On Mon, 14 Apr 1997, David Nye wrote:

> Andrew Green was asking for information on GM electrical connectors. I
> just finished restoring the harness on my '71 Cutlass. I found that the
> Au-ve-co Products line had the exact replacement terminal as well as the
> plastic insulator (single, double, headlight, and even voltage regulator
> insulators). These parts are available through most fastener companies,
> the only problem is that if they're not in stock the terminals come 50
> to a box and insulators are 25 to a box. I've listed the part numbers
> below.
> Au-ve-co Products
> Terminal8774Net price 50 @ $9.12
> Single insulator8777  25 @ $5.43
> Dual Insulator12564  10 @ $5.23
> Regulator Pigtail11444  10 @ $19.89
>
> I have a complete catalog. I anyone would like me to check out
> something, let me know.
>
>

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:08:28 -0300
Subject: Specifications for a 1981 Delta 88

After doing some work on my car and noticing major improvments, I find
myself in the dark about its stock specifications.  This might sound
stupid, but I have no idea about how much HPs it has or torqe, what its top
speed is (pins at 140km/h), what the expected fuel economy is (307 4-bbl,
3-speed TH250/350) etc.  If anyone can shed any light on this, it would be
helpfull.

Igor Todorovic
'81 Delta 88 307 4-dr
'95 Chrysler Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:08:24 -0300
Subject: Handling Problem

I recently aquired BFGoodrich 255/60/15 Radials and new shocks on all four
wheels for my 1981 Delta 88.  Although this definitly improved handling
especialy at high speeds (i.e. ' welcome to ticket-land '), the car is all
over the  road especialy at slower speeds (below 60mph).  It wonders all
over the road and I find myself spending most of the time trying to keep it
in the lane.  What might be the problem.  Could it be worn coils, or
over-assisted steering?

Igor Todorovic
'81 Delta 88 307 4-dr
'95 Chrysler Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª611
********************************
