To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #645


oldsmobile-digest           Saturday, 3 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 645

83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust NAPA ª's Please?
Turbo 400 4 sale
Re: 69 442
Re: Happy Friday!
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª642
Re: 69 HURST DIE CAST
car cover
Re: general pieces
Flashback Friday
Re: car cover
Re: Flashback Friday
Re: Re[2]: Valves
Farewell!!
Olds 12-Bolt Axle Interchange
Re: Console shifter
'68 Cutlass For Sale!
Sorry for the picture post
Re:Electrical_Question
Re: Early Toros for sale
69 442 carb
Re: Re[2]: Valves
Re: Console shifter
Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube
Re: Re[2]: Valves
Re: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust NAPA ª's Please?
Getting the boot.
Re: Flashback Friday
Re: Leaky Sun roof
Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad
Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube
Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube
Re: 69 442 carb
Re: Stripe Options (fwd)
68 442 hood wanted
Re: Thanks
Re: Ol' Toro now pessimistic :(
Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad
re: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust NAPA ª's Please?
Re:  Olds in TV Ads
Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube
Olds Ad
Re: Getting the boot.
Re: Flashback Friday
Ol' Toro now loudly optimistic :)
Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube
Calling out for 50's owners
Custom Whitewalls and Tires
Please-'53 Upholserty or look-alike
Re: Getting the boot.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:00:08 -0300
Subject: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust NAPA ª's Please?

OL>I've had it w/ exhausts for my '87 442.
OL>- From the factory it come w/ 2.25" system (.25" bigger than Monte Carlo ss
OL>& Gran Nationals)
OL>- Torque Tech DOES NOT AND WILL NOT IN THE FUTURE make a 2 1/2 inch
OL>aluminized mandrel bent exhaust system for a cat-back installation.  They
OL>say there hasn't been a "rush" for them but they will sell me a 3 inch
OL>system.  That would lean out my little 307 to much.
OL>- Hooker makes a similar system, but it is a 2 inch system
OL>- Walker makes a similar system, but it is a 2 inch system.
OL>- Walker makes a replacement system, but you "must" use center/center OEM
OL>style and size mufflers, so much for center/offset or offset/offset turbo
OL>style mufflers.

OL> ---
OL>| | | Brad Nicholson
OL>| | | 1987 442 W-42
OL>|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
OL>| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
OL> ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
OL>(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
OL>(H) brad442@erols.com

Did you try Flow Master? They have a system for GNs in my Summit catalog
2.25" replaces the stock system from the rear axle back. $228.50 Seems
like a lot of money for a muffler and tail pipes.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
Daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Ira H Siegelman" <IRA_H_SIEGELMAN@vnyao.dcmdw.dla.mil>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:56:18 -0300
Subject: Turbo 400 4 sale

     I have a recently rebuilt Turbo 400 from a 72 442 for sale, is any one
     interested? I am asking $200.00 (or best offer) for it plus shipping;
     I live in So. California. If interested, please E-mail me privately.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:32:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 442

At 01:30 AM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-05-02 00:09:04 EDT, you write:
>
><< I found an orignal ª's matching 69 442 with the ram rod 400.  They want 13
> grand.  the car has been painted but is correct and awesome 72,000
>documented
> miles. >>
>I would pay no more than 10,000 for it.  Unless it says Ramrod W-32 then its
>worth the 13 and if only he has the paper work for it.
>
>
>W MACHINES
>72 442 W-30
>

I have a question, based purely on curiosity.  If a car is worth $3000. more
because it has a couple of different parts, W32 option, and all the rest
that is different is a firewall data plate and say a factory build sheet.

Let us say the W32 parts alone are worth $1000.  That means a $5.
counterfeit dataplate, it leaves you with a piece of paper worth $1995.  I
expect that if you found one of the genuine original copies of the
Declaration of Independence it might be worth millions (there were several
copies made at the time), but it would likely be so difficult to fake that
it isn't inexpesively possible.

But a computer generated, Oldsmobile form for close to 2 grand.

Am I missing something here, or are the fakers having a field day.

The Wiz Wonders

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:43:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Happy Friday!

        At 11:47 AM 5/2/97 +0000, you wrote:
>    Subject:  FRIDAY MORNING HUMOR(LITTLE)
>
>ACTUAL SIGNS ACROSS THE STATES
>
>At a Santa Fe gas station:
>"We will not sell gasoline to anyone in a glass container."
>
>In a New York restaurant:
>"Customers who consider our waitresses uncivil ought to see the manager."
>
>On the wall of a Baltimore estate:
>"Trespassers will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.  --Sisters of
>Mercy"
>
>On a long-established New Mexico dry cleaners:
>"38 years on the same spot."
>
>In a Los Angeles dance hall:
>"Good clean dancing every night but Sunday."
>
>In a Florida maternity ward:
>"No children allowed."
>
>In a New York drugstore:
>"We dispense with accuracy."
>
>In the offices of a loan company:
>"Ask about our plans for owning your home."
>
>In a New York medical building:
>"Mental Health Prevention Center"
>
>On a New York convalescent home:
>"For the sick and tired of the Episcopal Church."
>
>On a Maine shop:
>"Our motto is to give our customers the lowest possible prices and
workmanship."
>
>At a number of military bases:
>"Restricted to unauthorized personnel."
>
>On a display of "I love you only" Valentine cards:
>"Now available in multi-packs."
>
>In the window of a Kentucky appliance store:
>"Don't kill your wife.  Let our washing machine do the dirty work."
>
>In a funeral parlor:
>"Ask about our layaway plan."
>
>In a clothing store:
>"Wonderful bargains for men with 16 and 17 necks."
>
>In a Tacoma, Washington men's clothing store:
>"15 men's wool suits, $10. They won't last an hour!"
>
>On a shopping mall marquee:
>"Archery Tournament -- Ears pierced"
>
>Outside a country shop:
>"We buy junk and sell antiques."
>
>In the window of an Oregon store:
>"Why go elsewhere and be cheated when you can come here?"
>
>In a Maine restaurant:
>"Open 7 days a week and weekends."
>
>On a radiator repair garage:
>"Best place to take a leak."
>
>In the vestry of a New England church:
>"Will the last person to leave please see that the perpetual light is
>extinguished."
>
>In a Pennsylvania cemetery:
>"Persons are prohibited from picking flowers from any but their own graves."
>
>On a roller coaster:
>"Watch your head."
>
>On the grounds of a public school:
>"No trespassing without permission."
>
>On a Tennessee highway:
>"When this sign is under water, this road is impassable."
>
>Similarly, in front of a New Hampshire car wash:
>"If you can't read this, it's time to wash your car."
>
>And apparently, somewhere in England in an open field otherwise untouched by
>human presence, there is a sign that says, "Do not throw stones at this
sign." > >and don't forget my personal favorite: "Let me know if you don't get
this >message". > > > > >

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:57:37 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª642

>Hmmmm.... not all high-draw circuits are like this.  For instance, the convt.
>top motor on my '67 -- and all other power-top cars I've ever owned (all GM
>FWIW) -- all had a direct (albeit fused) line to the battery.  They all
worked >even when the switch was "Off".

Yuck. This is what I get for oversimplifying. I also forgot about power
seats, as Paul pointed out. Sigh...

>My '89 Fleetwood also allows one to listen to the radio and put window
>up/down after you shut the car off, too.  Until you open a door or do
>anything to turn on the interior lights.  Nice touch actually.

My P-mobile has this, too: "Retained Accessory Power." I get 10 minutes
after shutdown (unless someone opens a door) to sit there and listen to
the music, open/close windows, etc., after which there's a quiet *click*
from the dash and everything goes dark...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Jon442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 12:01:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 HURST DIE CAST

In a message dated 97-05-02 02:27:46 EDT, you write:

<< I know a lot of you out there have the Ertl 69 H/O die cast, and i just
 bought it.  I think it is a great replica, but, being the scale auto
 enthusiast that i am, I had to take it apart and detail it.  Can anyone out
 there give me the details i need...

Yes, it is a great model. ERTL really did a good job on most of the small
details. It has to be one of the most expensive models they have produced, as
far as cost.

 block color...red
 air cleaner...red
 intake(aluminum or no?)...red, not aluminum
 heads(aluminum or no?)...no
 inner fenders(red like the 442?)...black

  >>

Jon Wessel
Director, H/OCA

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 12:22:41 -0300
Subject: car cover

Hi all,

I need to purchase a new car cover for my '70. The old cover
has seen better days, holes, stains etc..(its the lt. green one) I am looking
for one that WILL NOT scratch old lacquer paint. Is there one out there that
will not scratch? I know that some covers state that they don't, but in
reality, well, you know. Any suggestions? Any experience with a certain bran?

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

             (MCORNEA@pt8244.pto.ford.com)  OCAª 4903

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:14:05 -0300
Subject: Re: general pieces

Hi Mike

   No I haven't run across that other spear yey but still have several boxes
to go thru. I'll check more on the whell opening moldings also and advise



Everett

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:23:19 -0300
Subject: Flashback Friday

The notes about the early W-30s out gunning G.T.O.s in 66 and 67
triggered a memory this morning. (we all know how dangerous that can be)
My dad worked as a service manager for the local Pontiac dealer from 63
till 68.  My knowledge of G.T.O.s was far better than that of Olds at
the time.  I remember asking my dad, "what does G.T.O. stand for?"  He
replied, "Get Them Oldsmobiles".  After yesterdays discussion I now
understand why he said that.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: R4C442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:37:00 -0300
Subject: Re: car cover

Hi Mark (which you rarely ever got I imagine!)
           I've used my Evolution 4 cover for about 7 years now and have
never seen a scratch. I'd recommend it. See you in Lansing.
                                     Ron Forsee 65 442-meister

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:39:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Flashback Friday

> The notes about the early W-30s out gunning G.T.O.s in 66 and 67
> triggered a memory this morning. (we all know how dangerous that can be)
> My dad worked as a service manager for the local Pontiac dealer from 63
> till 68.  My knowledge of G.T.O.s was far better than that of Olds at
> the time.  I remember asking my dad, "what does G.T.O. stand for?"  He
> replied, "Get Them Oldsmobiles".  After yesterdays discussion I now
> understand why he said that.

Hmmm, that's funny; I remember reading a few years ago that in '66 and/or '67,
442s (I don't recall any distinction as far as W-30's only, but that may have
been implied) *were* faster than their GTO counterparts.  However, the Poncho
was more popular than the Olds, due to -- according to the author, NOT me :)
- -- it's superior styling.

And you probably know this already Dave, the name GTO was taken from the
Ferrari 250(?) GTO of the late 50s/early 60s, and it stands for
"Gran Tourismo Omagatto(sp)".

Or is it "Gas, Tires and Oil"?




Tim (What if "Freddie and the Daytonas" Sang a 442 Song?) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:53:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Valves

Walter you said,


>
>Then does the S/S valve run hotter than its carbon steel counterparts since
>it doesn't transfer as much heat to the seat & guide? If so I would have to
>assume that this additonal heat doesn't harm Stainless like it would carbon
>steel.  GM has gone to S/S exaust valves in their 5.7 V8's. I have not seen
>much guide wear in these engines I wonder if this is why?
>Walter
>
>

  I'd be B.S.ing you to high Heaven if I said I knew everything about heat
transfer in valves.  However, as the conductivity is much lower in the S/S
valve, it will take on less heat than the carbon steel.  It will also not
give it up as readily.  The heat definitely transfers from the valve stem to
the valve guide and this cools the valve stem which produces a temperature
gradient along the length of the stem leading to the head of the valve.
This has an overall cooling effect on the valve, but I have a hard time with
it cooling the face or seat of the valve.  The length of the path and the
changes in cross sectional area are just too great.  When you think of the
combustion at the valve face and the hot gases going past the valve seat,
the effects of the valve guide seem at least one if not two orders of
magnitude less in terms of rate of heat transfer on the valve itself.

Basically, the S/S valve has higher heat resistant properties and is more
resistant to mechanical stresses and strains than the carbon steel valve.

 Just my 0.2


  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 14:53:02 -0300
Subject: Farewell!!

All,
Many things are happening right now, including finals, so I have to remove
myself from the list indefintely. :(
Don't know if/when I'll be able to return but I've really enjoyed the
discussions.  I'm very impressed with how much knowledge and experience
you all have!!  I'll miss reading this stuff everyday!
Congratulations to Charley on your graduation, and to anyone else
graduating!

See y'all sometime!

     Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 15:11:10 -0300
Subject: Olds 12-Bolt Axle Interchange

Hi Gang,

Well, one of the axles from my 1968 Convertible 442's 12-Bolt type "O", 3.42
(open) rear end has been ruined by a bearing failure.  What axles will
interchange?  Will an axle from a 10-bolt type "O" work?


Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Timothy Carl Hietpas <thietpas@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 16:31:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Console shifter

Peter,

I havew replaced this shifter piece and is very easy to do.
Originally the shifter was very loose until one day it broke off in my
hand.  I knew then replacement was nessessary.  The part cost approx.
$17.  The downside is that the little chrome pieces around the base and
each side of the shifter do not come with the shifter handle.  Remove
these chrome pieces yourself with lots of care.  The guy at GM removed
mine with a screwdriver and cracked one of them.  Offhand he couldn't
find the part number to replace these chrome pieces.

To remove the shifter handle form the shifter is a simple job.  These is
a pin located on the passenger side just under the shifter handle.
Remove this and the shifter pulls right off.  Also, the white threaded
shaft in the shifter and be turned to adjust how much you need to press
the shifter button in to advance to a different gear.

thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
1987 Olds 442Plates [1987 W42]


On Wed, 30 Apr 1997, Peter L. House wrote:

> Hi Folks. Has anyone ever replaced the shifter handle with the push
> button in the left side of the handle, not the whole stick just the
> top part. I have a '87 Salon and the top part is getting loose, I
> wanted to try and get the part before someone tells me that they
> stop making them, the interior of the car is dark red or burgundy.
>
> If anyone has any part numbers from GM or any experiance in
> replacing this part please respond..
>
>
> Peter L. House
> '87 Salon
> phouse@feith.com
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:54:24 -0300
Subject: '68 Cutlass For Sale!

My father is being forced to quite his job and return to school and
as a result needs to come up with some finances.  Of course the first
thing to go is the car.  It is a '68 Cutlass, no S, no Supreme or
442, just a straight Cutlass.

*4 door
*65,000 orriginal miles (don't remember exactly but something like
that)
*350 rocket, 2bbl
*Jetaway 2speed auto
*Truely rust free car (the reason why I told dad he had to get it
before some kid, you won't believe you eyes.)
*Green interior, Green (Mist Green??) paint, as far as I can tell
it's original, and excellent
*Wants to sell to someone who will take care of and "collect" it

I will try to get a picture posted on my pieced together/incomplete
web page sometime today

For more details or info or pictures e-mail ME, as I don't always get
time to read through all of the list.

Thanks,
Todd Wallin
twallin@grant.tds.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme 2dr ht
'87 Calais sedan

------------------------------

From: "Todd Wallin" <twallin@grant.tds.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:54:24 -0300
Subject: Sorry for the picture post

I appologize for any problems I may have caused by attempting to post
a picture to the list on May 1.  Being so long since I read the
welcome message I simply forgot.  Again my apologies and thanks for
the understanding.

Thank You,
Todd Wallin
twallin@grant.tds.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme 2dr ht
'87 Calais sedan

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 15:37:21 -0300
Subject: Re:Electrical_Question

> I own a 1966 Olds Ninety-Eight Convertible.  I have found that many things
such > as the power windows, radio, fan blower, etc. still work when the key
is shut > off in the car.  I had the ignition switch checked and they said it
was working > fine.  When I asked one person about it, they said that's the
way it was suppose > to be because the key didn't shut things off (such as
power windows) till a > couple of years later.

If you don't like the way your power accessories work, pull out the Shop
Manual and look at the wiring chart. You can probably change things around
to suit yourself fairly easily without a great deal of effort.

I'd worry more about the fan and radio than the windows. When accessories
are turned off, they will not drain the battery. The problem with the
radio and fan is that it is all too easy to leave them on when you exit
the car so having them only operate with the key is the best solution.

Typical behavior:
  - Your radio and fan should only work with the key in (accessory or on).
  - Your power windows and the convertible top may work with the key out.

I am the second owner of a 1967 Cutlass and the third owner of a 1972
GS455. Neither has been touched in the electrical harness, all wiring is
original. Both operate in the above manner, which is consistent with what
I remember from the days when we bought similar models new.

Brand loyalty was normal back in the 50's and 60's, so when a customer
'crossed over' a real effort was made to retain him/her by the dealer.
There were many inconsistencies between manufacturers (unlike today's
homegeneity) which applied to electrical accessories in particular.
Inconsistencies existed between models in the same lineup and between
model years within the same manufacturer. I'd even bet there were
differences between the same model made in different factories.

Anybody who drove rentals back in those days should remember why getting
acquainted with the peculiarities of a model before leaving the lot was
essential. At one time, some Ford models had the horn on the end of the
turn indicator Euro-style and no other manufacturer followed suit. I found
this jewel out on a Hertz car in Boston when driving out of Logan airport.

Dealers used to modify the behavior of accessories to suit their
customers. Customers could come to their first service and ask for
accessories to be re-configured to operate in the manner they were used to
(because it was that way on the second car in the family and/or the
traded-in car).

I can remember being told when the change was made to require the Ignition
key that it is less dangerous for young children left in the car.
Supposedly some had strangled themselves when leaning out the window by
accidentally pushing the window up. This was probably an urban myth made
up to placate customers who preferred the no-key window operation.

As to how far a dealer would go to satisfy crossover customers. We told
the dealer we would not order a 1965 442 because the drivers seat in the
Cutlass on the floor did not go back far enough for my long legs and I had
to sit scrunched up. The salesman wrote on the contract that the car would
have 'seat extenders' on the buckets. When the car came the seat was the
same and the salesman got me to accept delivery by promising this would be
fixed at the first service.

The first service was at 500 miles or so, because the engine was filled
with a lightweight break in oil. It only took two days to do the necessary
miles so I was back the same week. The service manager asked me what else
I would like done, as there was a whole list of things that were not
charged on that first service but were costly if done later.

The service manager and I became real friends because the car was plagued
with quality problems. It took until the last 500 miles of the 24,000 mile
warranty to get the Jetaway working properly (it was full of iron shavings
which were floating around blocking up passages and causing unusual shift
behavior). The dealer always supplied me with a loaner off the used car
lot while the 442 was being fixed under warranty.

Hey Charlie, you'll love the reason I came to buy the 442. We had ordered
a new Impala and took delivery of one of the first in our area (it was the
new coke bottle body style). This car had been ordered with HD suspension
but when the spare pair of wheels with winter tires were put on, the car
was a disaster. It squirmed its way down the expressway, the tail kept
shimmying from side to side even on a dry road.

We sold the Impala six weeks after taking delivery at a $600 loss, and
ordered a 442 because all the magazines said it had the firmest
suspension. The 400 cid and dual exhaust were added incentive, it was not
just the suspension which sucked us in. We bought the car on spec because
the dealer did not have one to try out. Buick did not have the Gran Sport
at the time, you could not get a rear anti-sway bar on the GTO, and no way
were we going near the Chevelle after our Impala experience.

Local dealers in the New York Triple Cities (Binghamton-Endicott-Johnson
City) had a 'clean deal' which applied on all cars without a trade-in that
was 10% off the base and 20% off extras. The car cost $2,700, and the
number of $156 sticks in my memory for the 442 option. Because we'd sold
the Impala and had to wait for our car, the dealer loaned us a Rocket 88
off the used car lot until delivery about 8 weeks later. Can you imagine
any dealer doing that today?

That was the best $156 we ever spent.

Dal

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 16:59:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Early Toros for sale

On Fri, 2 May 1997, SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:

> I saw these in my local Philly paper--
> *Toronado- 1966. runs great, needs body work. $500. after 5:00 pm (eastern)
> *Toronado- 1967. body solid. needs some mechanical work. $250. After 5:00.

Gee, I suppose those prices don't include delivery :(  What'd it cost to
ship a 4300 lb car to MT ?  :)  Kinda seems to match my Toro.  Mechanical
OK, needs ~tons~ of body work!  Oh well, I'm sure I'll run across another
one somewhere.  I've still got the '66 avail. to me.  No motor, Body OK.
Wait, would $750 ship both to me!!!  ??? Nah, didn't think so :(

- --Charley Buehner

------------------------------

From: Cougerxxx@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 17:09:40 -0300
Subject: 69 442 carb

      I am looking for advice on which carborator runs best in a '' 69 442
w/400. I currently have a Holly 650 dbl. pumper . Any suggestions other than
the original?


                                                                    Thanks,


















                                                            cougerxxx@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 17:51:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Valves

At 01:53 PM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Walter you said,
>
>
>>
>>Then does the S/S valve run hotter than its carbon steel counterparts since
>>it doesn't transfer as much heat to the seat & guide? If so I would have to
>>assume that this additonal heat doesn't harm Stainless like it would carbon
>>steel.  GM has gone to S/S exaust valves in their 5.7 V8's. I have not seen
>>much guide wear in these engines I wonder if this is why?
>>Walter
>>
>>
>
>  I'd be B.S.ing you to high Heaven if I said I knew everything about heat
>transfer in valves.  However, as the conductivity is much lower in the S/S
>valve, it will take on less heat than the carbon steel.  It will also not
>give it up as readily.  The heat definitely transfers from the valve stem to
>the valve guide and this cools the valve stem which produces a temperature
>gradient along the length of the stem leading to the head of the valve.
>This has an overall cooling effect on the valve, but I have a hard time with
>it cooling the face or seat of the valve.  The length of the path and the
>changes in cross sectional area are just too great.  When you think of the
>combustion at the valve face and the hot gases going past the valve seat,
>the effects of the valve guide seem at least one if not two orders of
>magnitude less in terms of rate of heat transfer on the valve itself.
>
>Basically, the S/S valve has higher heat resistant properties and is more
>resistant to mechanical stresses and strains than the carbon steel valve.
>
> Just my 0.2
>
>
>  Paul Brillhart
>
I'm sorry guys I don't understand this one, at least not totally.  I will
agree to the heat conductivity will be lower in S.S. but I'm a bit
dis-agreeable about what happens to it.  I think that the lower heat
condicutivity would only cause it to require a longer time to come up to
temperature, and would not decrease the absolute temperature.  Also it would
decrease the heat bleed off to the oil (that's where it ultimately goes)(as
it will give up the heat harder as well).  Unless for some obtuse reason it
causes more to exit from the exhaust than the carbon steel valve, which
would divert that component to the oil.

I'm hard pressed to believe that a valve made of either matieral would not
be at the same ultimate temperature in the same engine after they was at
operating temperature.  And this of course assumes everything else is the
same.

The principal components of S.S. are iron, chrome, nickle, and carbon.
These ingrediants MAY have more natural lubricating properties when run
against cast iron (the usual makeup up of the head and guides) than carbon
steel which is only iron and carbon.

This arena is going to take a lot of thinking on my part, and I give it some.

So those not so metallurigally challenged, please expand this post.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 18:17:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Console shifter

>
> Peter,
>
> I havew replaced this shifter piece and is very easy to do.
> Originally the shifter was very loose until one day it broke off in my
> hand.  I knew then replacement was nessessary.  The part cost approx.
> $17.  The downside is that the little chrome pieces around the base and
> each side of the shifter do not come with the shifter handle.  Remove
> these chrome pieces yourself with lots of care.  The guy at GM removed
> mine with a screwdriver and cracked one of them.  Offhand he couldn't
> find the part number to replace these chrome pieces.
>
> To remove the shifter handle form the shifter is a simple job.  These is
> a pin located on the passenger side just under the shifter handle.
> Remove this and the shifter pulls right off.  Also, the white threaded
> shaft in the shifter and be turned to adjust how much you need to press
> the shifter button in to advance to a different gear.
>
> thietpas@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu
> 1987 Olds 442Plates [1987 W42]
>
>
> >
SNIP_____
Did you have to specify a color for the handle, & are the part ª's
different for the various colors...
> >
> > Peter L. House
> > '87 Salon
> > phouse@feith.com
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 18:23:17 -0300
Subject: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube

I'm going to be changing the gear lube in my '70 3.42 posi
rear axle and transmission soon.  I'm pretty convinced that
synthetic 75W-90 such as Mobil 1's gear lube is what I'm
going to put in the Muncie, but have reservations on using
it in the posi rear.  The products labeling mentions posi
diffs in a couple of places but seems to have been written
by lawyers.  I checked their web site and this is the
most they had to say;

" It is manufactured from synthesized hydrocarbon base
oils and a specially designed extreme-pressure,
limited-slip, sulfur-phosphorus additive package."

Do I take that to mean I can use it w/o the GM limited
slip additive?  I already have the additive, would it
be compatible w/Mobil 1 if I mixed the two?

I hate to screw up my only olds posi unit...

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 18:20:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Valves

  Whiz said,
>>
>I'm sorry guys I don't understand this one, at least not totally.  I will
>agree to the heat conductivity will be lower in S.S. but I'm a bit
>dis-agreeable about what happens to it.  I think that the lower heat
>condicutivity would only cause it to require a longer time to come up to
>temperature, and would not decrease the absolute temperature.

That's what I said.

>Also it would
>decrease the heat bleed off to the oil (that's where it ultimately goes)(as
>it will give up the heat harder as well).

See above statement, and yes, the decreased thermal conductivity causes the
stainless steel valve to retain more energy in the form of heat at the stem.
This is because the rate of heat transfer to the valve guide is lower.

>The principal components of S.S. are iron, chrome, nickle, and carbon.
>These ingrediants MAY have more natural lubricating properties when run
>against cast iron (the usual makeup up of the head and guides) than carbon
>steel which is only iron and carbon.
>
  Probably,  but as I said, I'm not a metallurgist, I design HVAC systems.



  Later.

  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 19:11:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust NAPA ª's Please?

On Fri, 2 May 1997, Jason Labay wrote:

>
> Did you notice any performance gains/losses with the SuperTrapps? A few cars
> that I have seen dynoed lost 5-15 hp with the SuperTrapp's installed.
> >

I don't have any other performance mods done to the car, so they didn't
make much of a differnence.  They're not even that loud either.  I guess
it all depends on what you got for an engine.  They are supposed to be
"tuneable" meaning you could adjust the number of diffuser discs for
maximum torque ~OR~ horsepower.  I just threw them on and hadn't tried
fooling around with that aspect of them.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Daniel Houlton <tc75918@hpr169.mdhc.mdc.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 19:04:27 -0300
Subject: Getting the boot.

Hi all,

Am I the only one that has been continually removed from
the list the last few weeks?  I've had to re-subscribed 3
times now.  I'll go for a two or three days when it happens
cause I don't know if the list is down or I've been removed
again.

- --Dan

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 19:15:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Flashback Friday

On Fri, 2 May 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

>
> And you probably know this already Dave, the name GTO was taken from the
> Ferrari 250(?) GTO of the late 50s/early 60s, and it stands for
> "Gran Tourismo Omagatto(sp)".
>
> Or is it "Gas, Tires and Oil"?


My dad used to tell me it meant "Garbage Truck Option"

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@spoiler.interaccess.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 20:58:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaky Sun roof

Peter L. House wrote:
>
<snip>
>
> Next subject, How hard is it to have the seal around the sun roof
> replaced, mine is leaking when water sits there too long. I don't
> know if it is the rubber that comes in contact between the metal on
> the roof of the car or if it is the actual seal that hold the glass
> in the frame. It looks complicated I'm afraid to take it to some

Peter,
  Had that exact problem in my '86 442.  Thought it was blocked drain
tubes, but it turned out that it was the seal between the glass and its
frame.  I took my car to a local sun roof/conertible shop.  They didn't
know if was factory or not (I wasn't sure at the time, either..), but it
is.  For $25 they cleaned it up and ran sime new sealant around the
glass ( and some on the paint, grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....)  and I haven't had
a drop since.  If you're in the Chicago area I can tell you where I took
mine....
- --
- ---Matt
'86 442

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
remove the "spoiler" for replies |
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 20:43:26 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad

Is the glove box cover and the ashtray cover still present?

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 21:11:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube

At 06:23 PM 5/2/97 -0300, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:

>
>Do I take that to mean I can use it w/o the GM limited
>slip additive?  I already have the additive, would it
>be compatible w/Mobil 1 if I mixed the two?
>
>I hate to screw up my only olds posi unit...
>
Jeff, I just put Mobil 1 75w-90 in my 3.23 posi rear on the Z roughly 1,000
miles ago now with no problems at all. I didn't use the additative, many I
know do not with the Mobil 1. ButI have heard that it can't hurt to add it,
not really needed.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, Mobil 1(eng. & diff.),
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html
75 Hurst/Olds W-25:project car....


------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 21:21:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube

At 06:23 PM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm going to be changing the gear lube in my '70 3.42 posi
>rear axle and transmission soon.  I'm pretty convinced that
>synthetic 75W-90 such as Mobil 1's gear lube is what I'm
>going to put in the Muncie, but have reservations on using
>it in the posi rear.  The products labeling mentions posi
>diffs in a couple of places but seems to have been written
>by lawyers.  I checked their web site and this is the
>most they had to say;
>
>" It is manufactured from synthesized hydrocarbon base
>oils and a specially designed extreme-pressure,
>limited-slip, sulfur-phosphorus additive package."
>
>Do I take that to mean I can use it w/o the GM limited
>slip additive?  I already have the additive, would it
>be compatible w/Mobil 1 if I mixed the two?
>
>I hate to screw up my only olds posi unit...
>
>-Jeff


Jeff

        I have used synthetics in my posi's for years. I run Ams-Oil AND the
GM posi additive and have had no problems or chattering. My Olds service
manager friend says that there should be no ill effects from running the
synthetic. It will also lower the rear end temp, whaich can only be better
on the whole assembly. The only thing I haven't tried synthetics on is any
greases for bearings and such and with the W-27 rear in my car with the
aluminum carrier and the cover it already lowered the temps and increased
capacity over a standard rea. ALL my auto transmissions and engines all get
synthetics after break-in.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 21:32:20 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 442 carb

In a message dated 97-05-02 19:35:51 EDT, you write:

<< I am looking for advice on which carborator runs best in a '' 69 442
 w/400. I currently have a Holly 650 dbl. pumper . Any suggestions other than
 the original?
  >>
Edelbrock makes a 850 carb that has a chevy right angle inlet but uses a
electric
choke and is would work great, try the Edelbrock web page and look up
accessories

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 22:05:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Stripe Options (fwd)

On Fri, 2 May 1997, mrada wrote:

> >  84L = paint, Charcoal Met. (84), lower (L)
>
> What does "L" stand for?

"L" stands for lower, as in lower body color, as opposed to upper body
color, which was replaced by the vinyl top code

> >  it had it's own model code (3BY37) in the ordering book.  I ran across
> >  this once before here on the list.
>
> Is that a Y or an N?  Maybe I misread some of the numbers.

N37, which is what is on your data plate, is for the "standard" Delta 88
Royale coupe.  Y37, which shows in the order books, but not on the data
plate, is the code for a Delta 88 Royale Brougham coupe.  Even though the
Brougham was ordered from the factory as an N37, the Brougham was
considered to be an option on the Y37 standard body.  There are no
separate production numbers of N37 Broughams.  There were 41,382 Delta 88
Royale coupes built for '82.  This number includes Broughams.  This is
confusing and I don't think I'm making it very clear.  I guess I
understand it better because of working for an Olds dealer.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 22:02:42 -0300
Subject: 68 442 hood wanted

I'm in southern WI and am in desperate need of a good hood for a 68 442.
If anyone has a stock one or a nice fiberglass one please contact me.
Marty    http://hanthorn@inwave.com

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 22:26:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Thanks

Robert Yasczak wrote:
>
>         I just wanted to thanks everyone for all of the help.  I am leaving
on > Saturday for summer break and will not have access to the list.  With all
of > the time that I now spend on the computer I just keep thinking about
working on > my Oldsmobiles.  Again, thanks to everyone that has helped me
with my questions > throughout the year. >         One final question, I plan
on replacing my T-tops seals this summer. > Is this something I can do or
should I let the dealer do it?  If I let the > dealer do it I will get the
parts whole sale and most likely a lower labor > charge, since they are good
friends of the family. >                 Thanks Again >
Robb Yasczak    vjtd@grove.iup.edu >                         1969 Cutlass
Conver. >                         1969 442 >                         1976 442 >
1987 Cutlass Salon

One warning about the T-top seals: I was going to replace them, but just
the two L-shaped strips along the top of the roof that the t-top glass
lays on is about $90.  But my total bill would have been around $300
because I need all weatherstripping replaced (not really NEED, just
want  :P

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 23:36:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Ol' Toro now pessimistic :(

At 12:14 AM 5/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Oooo, ooo, I know, I know! You mean out of the tailpipe under the rear
>>bumper? (my '68 doesn't get nearly that far...) Here's what's happening:
>
>Well, good thought, but alas, not for this car.  The factory muffler and two
>resonators have been replaced with two glasspacks (in the resonator
>postitions), and the pipe coming out the pass side goes straight (well, with
>a ~few~ curves!) to the pass. side ex.man.  The heat riser is on the

See, Charlie, I'm surprised they're letting you graduate... Obviously, you
have to replace this non-stock exhaust system with a stock-style exhaust;
then my answer will be right, and the problem will be solved! ;)

>driver's side, and I checked it out a couple days ago.  Sticky, but open,
>and moveable.  All the ~pass~ exhaust must go through the X-over, and then
>out the driver's side, through the heat riser valve.  (Gawd, if ~that~ stuck
>shut now, I'd have ~real~ idle problems!!!)

Sounds like mice, or a collapsed muffler tube. Good luck!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 01:01:25 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad

At 07:43 PM 5/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Is the glove box cover and the ashtray cover still present?

If you need those, I've got those off my '72 VC available. In fact, I've got
the whole dash and dash pad in blue out of the car (if anyone wants or needs
such a thing).

On pulling the dash, it's helpful to have *very* long and skinny arms, plus
lots of 1/4" drive u-joints and extensions. I believe the retaining screws
are 1/4" or 9/32"; there's about six of them or so. The real tough ones to
get at are the end ones, between the A/C outlet vents and the door.

In addition, if you're going to be pulling the dash, as bad as the screws
are they're not the worst part; the absolute worst part of this is
disconnecting all the various things that are connected to the dash itself
(gauges, switches, heater control unit, etc.). Be patient, remove all the
ducting, label everything as you disconnect them from the dash, remove all
the nuts you can find holding the dash on, and try to work it free. If it
doesn't come loose, double-check to make sure you haven't left a screw or
nut attached.

It's a real pain. I pulled mine when I was parting out the car, so I didn't
leave anything in place, and I pulled the dash out with the entire wiring
harness attached, so I didn't have to deal with disconnecting and labeling
everything.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Gilbert Russell" <russellg@dmv.com>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 00:52:18 -0300
Subject: re: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust NAPA ª's Please?

NAPA part numbers for the 84 H/O exhaust is as follows:

45211Tail pipe$22.62
45222Tail pipe$22.62
22623Muffler$50.46 ea.   (expensive little buggers)

They didn't have them in stock when I went in but they got them over night
from their main warehouse.  I didn't need to replace the hangers, y
pipe or center pipe after the catalytic converter. NAPA did list those
parts also.  Sorry I don't have those numbers.

Gil Russell
84 H/O

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 00:53:52 -0300
Subject: Re:  Olds in TV Ads

Someone asked about the Olds they'd spotted in the black & white newer
McDonald's ads.  I was very pleased to learn they belong to two Southern
California Chapter members.  The ad was filmed at the Downey McDonalds
which was one of the original ones.  Too cool!  Actually, there are a
couple guys in our chapter who have had their cars in alot of ads.

Just a bit of Trivia.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 02:12:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube

In a message dated 97-05-02 18:55:04 EDT, you write:

<< I'm going to be changing the gear lube in my '70 3.42 posi
 rear axle and transmission soon.  I'm pretty convinced that
 synthetic 75W-90 such as Mobil 1's gear lube is what I'm
 going to put in the Muncie, but have reservations on using
 it in the posi rear.  The products labeling mentions posi
 diffs in a couple of places but seems to have been written
 by lawyers.  I checked their web site and this is the
 most they had to say;
  >
Hi Jeff, you do have to be careful, Red Line synthetic oils have a posi and
non-posi
synthetic lube. Its availible through Summit Racing.  The posi gear oil is a
75W-90 with the part number RED-57904.  It costs 9.50 a bottle.  The non-posi
oil is
75w-90 with the part number Red-58304 and costs the same.


BTW JEFF, I have been telling people about your AT.jpeg and that they should
use it at Lansing in August.  I told them to make iron ons or on a piece of
paper on their car.  Myself, I am having it put on a hat.  What a great idea
you came up with.


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey King <jking@iglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 02:19:12 -0300
Subject: Olds Ad

Fellow Oldsmobilephiles,

I saw this ad in one of the USENET groups... thought you might be
interested....
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

Three 1963 Oldsmobile Cutlasses.

One convertible: 2 dr, red, red interior, white top, engine & minor work
.

One 2 dr coupe: "slantback"...sporty. Needs motor work. Near perfect
body,
                needs paint.

One 4 dr: complete car for parts or restoration.

All are 230 horsepower aluminum block V-8's.
All are automatic trans w/ console shifter.

Make 2 perfect cars using the 4 dr for parts.
Includes 3 engines & 4 transmissions.

ALL FOR JUST $2600.00!!!!!!!!

Call Bob @ (916)542-3150 or
Email @:   bob@oakweb.com

- ---------------------------------------------------------------

Happy Oldsmobiling,

Jeff King (61 Super 88)
- --
=======================================================================
Jeffrey W. King (N5PNU)      Internet@work:    jking@exame2.dseg.ti.com
Route 1, Box 290             Internet@home:           jking@iglobal.net
Krum, TX. 76249              Packet:     N5PNU @ N5AUX.ªDFW.TX.USA.NOAM
214-956-6031 (work)          214-597-1021 (pager)
817-482-3446 (home)          If none of the above works, shout HEY YOU!
=======================================================================
              http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1919
=======================================================================

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 03:33:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Getting the boot.

At 07:04 PM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Am I the only one that has been continually removed from
>the list the last few weeks?  I've had to re-subscribed 3
>times now.  I'll go for a two or three days when it happens
>cause I don't know if the list is down or I've been removed
>again.
>
>--Dan
>
>
How is 'Little Henry' these days.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 04:35:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Flashback Friday

At 07:15 PM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>
>On Fri, 2 May 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
>>
>> And you probably know this already Dave, the name GTO was taken from the
>> Ferrari 250(?) GTO of the late 50s/early 60s, and it stands for
>> "Gran Tourismo Omagatto(sp)".
>>

Gran Tourismo ~Omalagotto~ I thought.  (or something closer to that:)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 04:35:41 -0300
Subject: Ol' Toro now loudly optimistic :)

>See, Charlie, I'm surprised they're letting you graduate... Obviously, you
>have to replace this non-stock exhaust system with a stock-style exhaust;
>then my answer will be right, and the problem will be solved! ;)
>
>
>Sounds like mice, or a collapsed muffler tube. Good luck!

Regardless the nature of the problem, I effectively bypassed it today.
Dropped the Pass side exhaust off of the manifold (mounting provisions still
hold it fairly close to the manifold, didn't even have to wire it up:)
Fired 'er up, and she's run fine ever since (most of the day, that is...)  I
took it out on the "maiden voyage" across the block.  Can't say it goes like
a bat out of hell, but at least a wounded bat, anyway :)  Runs, drives, and
shifts.  That's a start.  It's louder than hell, so it really turns heads!
(as if the gash in the front end wasn't enough :)  Drove it to the gas
station, then to Taco Time (I work there, so I eat there often) and then to
the bowling alley (where I had to work tonight.)   Made the trips just fine.
Little lacking on power yet, and ~really~ smoky.  Between the oil leaks, bad
gas, contaminated cylinders, and open exhaust, I can put on quite a show.
On the way home, I got to use my one good headlight.  I couldn't get on the
throttle too much, because the light has an impotence problem there.  (Vac.
reservoirs not hooked up.)  All the lines are basically bypassed, and I've
got manifold vacuum going to the light actuators.  The headlight control
valve was crushed in the wreck, so it's kinda useless now.  Only passed one
cop on the way home, and although he ~really~ looked at me funny (seems
everyone has been, now that I think about it:) he never turned around and
didn't pull me over.  It's ok, tho, cuz the car actually is mostly legal
(except the one headlight, loud exhuast, and no wipers.)  Heck, I even have
brakes on it now!  (bled 'em today, they're working good!)  I'm afraid if I
~do~ keep driving it, I'll have to get the exhaust fixed right, and fix the
radiator, tho, cuz it leaks really bad, too!  Sounds like $$$.  'Course,
sounds like fun, too :)  Who knows, tomorrow's another day.

     Oh, fixed the rest of the dome lights, too.  The Napa guys looked at me
funny when I showed em the bulb I needed (Same style as Chev. pickup's dome
light), and told them I needed four of 'em.  "What the HELL are you doing,
Chuck!?" they asked.   What, do you have four dome lights in that thing!??!
I explained that it was for the door's marker lights, and that calmed em
down a bit.  (They had to order three of the four bulbs fo me!)  I didn't
feel like breaking the news to them that the car has four more exactly like
it for dome lights!  I just don't think they could have handled the shock :)
I'm kinda amused at the courtesy light switch.  Turn the headlight switch
backwards, and the dome lights come on (with the door lights) and turn the
courtesy switch on and the floor lights come on.  Open the door, and all of
em come on.  Cool! :)

     Made it up to just over 45 mph today in it.  A ~new~ milestone.
(C'mon, give me a break -- it hasn't ~moved~ in eight years or more! :)
Leaps and bounds, every day!

     Better go, tons more mail to read :o)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 04:35:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube

At 09:11 PM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 06:23 PM 5/2/97 -0300, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:
>
>>
>>Do I take that to mean I can use it w/o the GM limited
>>slip additive?  I already have the additive, would it
>>be compatible w/Mobil 1 if I mixed the two?
>>
>>I hate to screw up my only olds posi unit...
>>


I've heard people say that the additive is just to help slicken things up,
to make the posi break free easier (for cornering)  These people say you
really don't need it, unless you have chattering problems on corners.  Don't
know for sure.  I ran straight gear oil in the Rockit when I put that posi
in, and haven't had any problems with ~that~ side of the car.  We never
really got into that stuff in classes.  College teaches the ~book~ way, and
the ~proverbial correct~ way, but not often the intelligent and useful ways,
so I couldn't really argue either way on the need for the stuff.  Any
thoughts?


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 09:44:54 -0300
Subject: Calling out for 50's owners

Hey 50's onwers,

        WHERE ARE YOU GUYS?  I feel like I'm the only one on the list that
owns and older car.  The list certainly doesn't see its fair share of older
owners.  I have a '53 Super 88 and rarely see anything on any car near that
time period.  I would just like to see a little more involved in all of the
massive mail that goes around.

                                In wonderment,
                                               Youngin'
                                                '53 Super 88

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 09:51:18 -0300
Subject: Custom Whitewalls and Tires

Dear list,

I'm amazed at the price of whitewalls.  I have a '53 Super 88 and wish I
could get some good whitewalls for a descent price.  Does anyone know of
any good places to try?  I also have another question.  I was once at an
auction down in Las Vegas when I came across a handout on how to customize
whitewall size.  Has anyone seen or heard about anything like this?  I've
looked in a few books about it and have never found anything on it.

                                                Just Curious,
                                                        Youngin'
                                                        '53 Super 88

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 09:58:52 -0300
Subject: Please-'53 Upholserty or look-alike

I'm having a heck of a time looking for upholstery for the seats of my '53
Super 88.  When I got the car, the seats were in perfect condition.  The
threads though just got too old and gaveway to weight and split.  I thought
I had found someone who could find me some, but to no avail.  Certainly
some one knows of upholstery somewhere.  Even look-alike would be good
enough.  I would greatly appreciate any help.

                                                        Bewildered,
                                                                Youngin'
                                                                '53 Super 88

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 3 May 1997 16:51:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Getting the boot.

Daniel Houlton wrote:
>
> Am I the only one that has been continually removed from
> the list the last few weeks?

I guess Greg's out in the garage so since I do the Toro list, I'll give
you the best answer *I* can:

When Majordomo can't deliver mail, it is returned to the administrator.
That means that if there are 80 messages a day and 5 subscr*bers can't be
reached, Greg will get 400 extra messages bounced back to him.

The problem may be temporary or "harder" messages like "Host unknown" or
"User unknown".  I don't know about Greg, but I may let this go on for a
couple of days but if the problem doesn't clear, I'll have to remove them
from the list.  Of course, they can sign back up anytime.

I'm pretty sure if you're being unsubscr*bed from the list, it's for one
of those reasons.  You might want to check with your service provider and
see if THEY're having some problems.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª645
********************************
