To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #614


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 16 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 614

Re: Decal
1971 cutlass for parts
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
RE: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
307 Smoke
VIN Number check
Re: Oldsmobile Custon Cruiser V8 Diesel
Re: address
Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!
Re: 3.something rearend
78-79 wanted
Re: 1990 Vintage
Re: rearend ratio
7040250 Carb
Re: address
Re: Cutlass 442 ???
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
GM 3.4L V-6s
Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
70 cutlass
WANTED: 1966 Dynamic 88 Convertible
Re: 70 cutlass
Re: 1971 cutlass for parts
Re[2]: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
"Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
[2] Handling Problem
[2] Specificatons for a 1981 Delta 88
Another sad story
Re: Tranny Went Kablooie!
Synthetic Motor Oil Again
Re: 81 cutlass
Re: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)
Re: 70 cutlass
Re: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)
1974 Oldsmobile Bulletins For Sale (4/16)
Re: rearend ratio
New ISP address for me
Olds sighting in PHR
Re: Used Olds Prices (was '86 442)
Re: 1971 cutlass for parts
Re: 1971 cutlass for parts
Re: [2] Handling Problem
Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!
Re: 78-79 wanted
Re: [2] Handling Problem
Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!
RE: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)
Re: 1971 cutlass for parts
Re: Ramrod 350
Subject: Re: Torque Converter for Swap
Re: 1990 Vintage
68 442
Re: 1971 cutlass for parts
Olds V6 Oil Delivery.....Comments?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:22:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Decal

Mark,
Do you have the 68 Hurst decal for the dash with "Doc Watson" on it? My friend
 needs one and the only place I've found it is from The restocking fee
specialists, The parts place. We'd rather do without than buy from them.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@quix.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 21:09:27 -0300
Subject: 1971 cutlass for parts

>Just returned from my twice weekly trips across the border. Located a
mostly complete 71 cutlass, with a real nice rear bumper,front bumper needs
some work,but can be restored very  nicely. Car shows trim on roof,so at
one time it must have had a vinyl roof. Power windows with switches,nice
dash cluster. am radio complete with knobs, and a lot of things i didn't
have time to really take in. Only rust i remember was the one at lower part
of rear window, otherwise car appeared ok. With our history of rain in this
area, most cars are literally rust free. (average rainfall is 1/4 inch per
year, temperature in summer reaches 115 degrees). Good body, lousy
interiors!!!!!!! If
anybody needs something in particular, write to me, and i will confirm
condition, and price.     sincerely     mike aldana     maldana@quix.net

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 21:08:44 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

"Robert J. Barry" writes:

>Dave,
>
>That's an ingenious solution! (probably born of necessity as well,
>huh???)
>This one goes in the "neat tricks" file.

Well, you know, necessity ~is~ the mother of invention (or is it
ingenuity in this case?).  I used to remove them that way in the early
days of my working on cars, before I knew there was a special tool for
doing it.  Of course, now I own the 'proper' tool for the job.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert Russell" <RcRussell@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:24:24 -0300
Subject: RE: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)



------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 21:21:23 -0300
Subject: 307 Smoke

Howdy gang.

I'll get right to the question: when I start the car after work...taking
the t-tops off :)...there is a puff of smoke from both tailpipes.  It's
not blueish, so I figgur it's not an oil leak.  It's sort of a grayish,
dusty smoke...and just a puff when I start it.  I can't figgur it out.
It doesn't smell gasy, but I suppose it could be a stuck choke (307 V8
with 4bbl Quadrajet).

Also...last one, I promise...going to work today, the torque converter
just decided to act up and at all speeds greater than about 25, it would
engage.  Slowing and stopping aren't a problem, but as soon as I get to
about 25 mph, third gear catches and the TCC engages.  It's real
annoying driving hilly backroads @ 30-35 mph!  The only real thing I can
do about it is drive in 2nd gear, or run it pretty hard from a stop sign
until the car is @ 40 mph then let it do its thing.  By the way, its a
200-C, could I be on it's way out...I've heard the stories about the
weak three speeds.

Thanks in advance for all the help.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 73K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 21:44:20 -0300
Subject: VIN Number check

All,

Just wanted to let you know that I have access to running VINs for mileage
rollbacks, salvage titles, etc.  I can get a report that tells me in most
cases when a vehicle has gone through an auction, what city and state it
was last registered in, what the mileage was at the time of last transfer.
Report also decifers the VIN and lets me know what kind of car it is and
what motor it should have.  I can only do examples from 1981 an up.
Oldsmobiles only please.

As an example, I ran a VIN for an '83 Regency I once owned.  The report
told me it was an '83 98 Regency coupe with a 5.0 V8.  The car changed
hands six times since I sold it.  Last recorded mileage was 146K.  It is
currently located in Detroit.

If you have a VIN you'd like me to run, email me privately.  Remember,
nothing older than '81 and only Oldsmobiles.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Lloyd <equitygroup@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 21:57:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Custon Cruiser V8 Diesel

jones wrote:
>
> >         The 6.2L wasn't that much
> >      better from what I've heard.  You seem to be the exception.
> >
> >         Anyone else out there had any experiences (good/bad/indifferent)
> >      with GM diesels?
> You heard wrong about the 6.2. I have one in a 82 Blazer. It ran 247,000
> and broke a wrist pin. I sleeved that cylinder  replaced the crank,the two
> rods it damaged, bored it .020 and put it back in. It now has 318.000
> (total) and runs great. There are a lot of these running around here and
> since I have a automotive machine shop I get to work on what ever breaks
> down. I do a lot more repairs on the 6.9 & 7.3 Ford (international) than I
> do the chevys. The 7.3 has problems with pin holes in the rear cylinders
> and is the worst engine on valve guides ever made. I love em.They make me a
> lot of money. If I had to make a living on 6.2 & 6.5 GM engines I would
> starve to death. Oh I don't make much on Olds V8's either those things
> sometimes seem to run forever.
> Walter

I bought this Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser and two others right after they
came out November, December 1995.  hey were all alike.  I used them as
private airport cars in three different cities in conjunction with the
business I was in at the time.  The one I have today was the worst of
the three.  It had the poorest service record and the paint was sun
damaged in the first two years because it was on an Island in the
Bahamas without a garage.  When I sold the cars, six years later, all
had in excess of 200,000 miles this one wouldn't sell because it had the
worst record and the paint was all cracked and faded so I kept it.  This
is the only one that had the new engine.  With the new engine it has
been a very good car.  Now with 388,564 miles on it it runs like the day
I got them.

All of the cars averaged very good fuel mileage. The only complaint was
on hills, especially at high altitude on hot days.  One time, with the
one I still have, I was driving from Wyoming on US80 toward Utah and it
just wouldn't pull the hill over 25mph.  I turned around and had it
checked and after everything the Olds dealer could do it just didn't
have the power to make the hill any faster.

I like the wagon and now that there are very few being made I have
decided to keep this one running.  That is why I would like to know
where I can get one of the new model engines like the one GM put in for
me in 1990.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:02:04 -0300
Subject: Re: address

At 06:08 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>olds

So, from what I gather, you're living in your car???
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:02:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!

At 05:20 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I am looking for a 65, 66, 68-70 olds cutlass 2dr or 442 preferably a
>66. around $1200-1500 one in need of care , w/ or w/o engine, plaese
>send info.

Hey! What's the matter with the '67??? It's those funny headlights, isn't it?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:02:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 3.something rearend

At 03:46 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm scheduled to be done exams and on to cars soon, and I've got a
>consistent response from everybody about lower-geared rearends.  So, in my
>_75 Cutlass Supreme_, which curently has a low-2's rearend, I'm looking
>for a 3.something rearend.
>
>1)  What will/won't work?

Any '73-'77 A or G body car, including Cutlass, LeMans, Grand Prix, Monte
Carlo, Chevelle/Malibu, etc.

>2)  Is this the 'magic power booster' I've been told?

It will improve your acceleration

>3)  Can anyone get me one? (Shipping should be easy for that small a part(s))

If you just want the gears, you can buy those new.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:47:37 -0300
Subject: 78-79 wanted

anyone with a 78-79 2dr cutlass half way decent? for sale preferably a
beater......but a good driver

                  http://hanthorn@inwave.com

------------------------------

From: David Lincoln <lincoln@ebicom.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:59:50 -0300
Subject: Re: 1990 Vintage

Easton,Jeffrey wrote:
>
>
> I thought the 3.4L used a timing chain not a belt.  If so a chain
> should last a lot longer than 50k miles.
>
> Also, the basic block design has been distributorless for so long
> I doubt it has a block off plate.
>

The 3.4 has a timing chain and a timing belt, I looked it up in the shop
manual.

Good point about the block off plate, seems that even if it does still
have one, they would have perfected it's sealing properties, given how
difficult it is to get to!

Thanks for the help.

Dave Lincoln

> -Jeff
> jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
>
> 1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:30:33 -0300
Subject: Re: rearend ratio

At 06:58 4/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 11:29 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>anyway to tell without removing the cover?
>>
>>
>There is a letter code stamped into the axle tube, that can be translated
here. > >Anon. I > >
    Yes true, but I recently bought a 12 bolt rear that was supposed to be
out of a '69 HO. The owner couldn't find the code stamp so I took the chance
and bought it.  When I got it shipped to me I found the code which was 'SH'.
So, I checked here with the list, and found out that the 'SH' was a 1970
3.42:1.  So at that point I know that it wasn't originally from a '69 HO so
out of curiosity and a little pessimism I removed the cover to see a 42/13
stamped in the ring gear ( 42 ring teeth divided be 13 pinion teeth ) which
is a 3.23:1.
    So the moral of the story is if you can't get a 'for certain'/'correct
ID' you need to pull the cover to find out what it is.  Especially because a
component like this is over 25 years old and potentially has been rebuilt or
changed out at one time or another.

 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:45:51 -0300
Subject: 7040250 Carb

Anybody have a 7040250 Rochester for sale?

Mike
66 442
69 H/0
70 W30
71 442 convt

------------------------------

From: "Tracey Cleeton" <tcleeton@mcmsys.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:17:54 -0300
Subject: Re: address

a man of few words...

- ----------
> From: marc bodin <bodinkmk@island.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: address
> Date: Tuesday, April 15, 1997 5:08 PM
>
> olds

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:45:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Cutlass 442 ???

Stillsurfn@aol.com wrote:
>
>   Two weeks ago I purchased a 72 Cutlass convertible.  It has a 455, a
> Quadrajet, and an auto transmission with a hurst dual gate shifter.  Black
> exterior with white interior and top.  All numbers match.  It's a head
> turner, I get the "nice car" feedback all the time.  Ok so much for braggin'
> .... now my ignorant questions...
>
> 1) Is this a 442 also?  Was 442  an option package in '72?  How can I tell?
The only way to tell is to find the build sheet. It will show the option
code for the 4-4-2.
>  The serial number identifies the engine as a 250hp (net) 455.
>
> 2) Does anyone have any idea how may 72 Convertibles were made with the 455
> and hurst dual gate?
>
> 3) How does the dual gate work (I don't mean how do you move the shifter,
> even an over-the-hill California surfer like myself can figure that out)  I
> mean what is happening when I use the right side versus the left?
All a dual gate does is keep you from over-shifting from 3rd into
neutral and to step the gear shifting to make missing a shift
impossible.
>
> 4) Even though it is a lower compression 455 (8.5 I believe)  is it still
> considered a "muscle car"?
Let's not start the imperical "what is a musclecar" thread. I call it a
musclecar and if you think it's one be happy.
>
> 5)  I have already broken commandment numbers 1, 4 and 5 of the "Ten
> Commandments for the Car Collector" (posted on 4/12/97).  Will I go to hell
> for this?  Do they force you to drive Fords while there?
No. Much worse. VW bugs.  (inside joke)
>
>   By the way I have been reading all of this email for two weeks already.  I
> am very impressed with all of the knowledge that is distributed here.....
you > people are awesome!!!!  Thank you in advance for answers. No problemo

Danny

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:29:11 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

At 10:37 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
> Dear J&J,
>  I am trying to find some one to trade to buy from, a 3:31 rearend for
>my 69 442. I have a 3:73 now. Please advise. Thank you.
>

You must have a C rear end in the car. I don't know of anyone around here
that wants a Ch*vy rear. I can't give the 3.73:1 posi I have away. I'm
trying to trade it with a buddy of mine for a TO code 3.91 Olds right now.
You can buy 3.31:1 gears for that rear brand new. That might be an
alternative.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:25:35 -0300
Subject: GM 3.4L V-6s

Not all 3.4l V-6s are created equal.  Contrary to some comments made on the
list, the 3.4l V-6 offered in the Camaro, Cutlass, and Venture are all
different.
     The first version is the 3.4L DOHC V-6 used only in the GM W-cars
(Monte Carlo, Cutlass, Grand Prix).  This engine is based on the Chevy
2.8/3.1L V-6.  The reason why this engine is being eliminated at the end of
the 1997 model year is the warranty costs are very high.  Also, the reason
it is not used in the new Olds Intrigue is that it is too noisy.  The
original intention was to use it for the first year until the 3.5L DOHC V-6
came out, but the noise was unnaceptable for that class of vehicle.
     The second version 3.4L was used only in the Camaro/Firebird.  This
engine is strictly a larger displacement of the 3.1L Chevy V-6.  This
engine had poor power output.  Prodution on this engine was discontinued
because the 3.1L V-6 that it was based on was discontinued.  Chevrolet
introduced a new 3.1L V-6 in 1994 (called the 3100 V-6) which is completely
different than the old 3.1L. It is vastly improved and has more horsepower
(160). Production on the old 3.1L V-6 ended at the end of 1994 model year
(except in Mexico).  The new 3100 V-6 is used on a variety of GM vehicles
including N-car & W-car.
     The third version of the 3.4L is the one used only in the new GM
minivans (Venture, Trans Sport, Sillouhette).  This engine is not at all
related to the old 3.4L V-6.  This engine is a larger displacement of the
new Chevy 3100 V-6.  It has many technological improvements over the old
3.1/3.4L V-6.  Also increased is the power output (185 HP).

     I hope this helps clarify some of the misinformation about the GM
engines and their applications.  GM is not forcing junk engines on new car
platforms.  Please get your facts straight before making such statements.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:25:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!

At 10:02 PM 4/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 05:20 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>I am looking for a 65, 66, 68-70 olds cutlass 2dr or 442 preferably a
>>66. around $1200-1500 one in need of care , w/ or w/o engine, plaese
>>send info.
>
>Hey! What's the matter with the '67??? It's those funny headlights, isn't it?
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>
Bob

        A friend of mine is finishing a nice 66 442 Holiday coupe. Got a
rebuilt and built short stroke 400 and a automatic. It has been switched to
a TH400. Replated bumpers, beautiful grille, super straight body better yet
he'll let it go for $1500 right now before he puts everything back together.
The front clip is off and the engine is out. Otherwise the interior is very
nice. Radio delete car and if I remember right it may have been a heater
delete also. I can't remember. He had a few of them. If your interested
please give him a call at (804) 730-3396. His name is Frank. He's located in
Richmond, Virginia. Check it out. If I had some more cash right now I'd pick
it up. It's super clean.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:58:06 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.

**** New stuff to list****
69 Long Stroke 400 cu in engine (from automatic car, complete)  $400.00
will not ship, you pick up or arrange shipping.
71-72 N.O.S. Headlight Housings (plastic)  $100.00 pr
71-72 N.O.S. Cutlass Rear Bumper  $400.00
69 442 Rear bumper (Nice)   $140.00
66-69 14x6 SSI Wheels (All chrome) non disc brakes  $40.00 ea
70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $25.00 ea
69 Headlight doors (more sets)  $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
70  12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $75.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $20.00
66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
$20.00 each
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $25.00
68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
69 442 Grilles (very good)  $180.00 pr
Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue   $10.00
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00

70 Cutlass/442
70-71 Short Wheelwell Moldings  $100.00 set of 4
70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $40.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire

72 Cutlass/442
New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  (around radio area)  $20.00
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $100.00 ea
(5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire
console shift lens. Beautiful reproduction. $35.00 plus $3.00 shipping.  We
are getting ready to tool up for the 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate shift lens for
reproduction soon.

Jim Chermack
'70 SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 01:09:50 -0300
Subject: 70 cutlass

Are the dash pads and accessories the same in a 4 dr. and coupes?

------------------------------

From: Greg Yonge <gsyonge@genesisnetwork.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 01:15:06 -0300
Subject: WANTED: 1966 Dynamic 88 Convertible

If anyone out there has one of these in good condition for sale, please =
let me know how much and where it is.  (the one I've been looking at =
here in CA was sold out from under me 2 days ago!!)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 19:16:18 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass

Yorcoy@aol.com wrote:
>
> Are the dash pads and accessories the same in a 4 dr. and coupes?


They surely are.  Trade all you want.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Robert Bishop <rbishop@iAmerica.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 01:58:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 1971 cutlass for parts

At 09:09 PM 4/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>Just returned from my twice weekly trips across the border. Located a
>mostly complete 71 cutlass, with a real nice rear bumper,front bumper needs
>some work,but can be restored very  nicely. Car shows trim on roof,so at
>one time it must have had a vinyl roof. Power windows with switches,nice
>dash cluster. am radio complete with knobs, and a lot of things i didn't
>have time to really take in. Only rust i remember was the one at lower part
>of rear window, otherwise car appeared ok. With our history of rain in this
>area, most cars are literally rust free. (average rainfall is 1/4 inch per
>year, temperature in summer reaches 115 degrees). Good body, lousy
>interiors!!!!!!! If
>anybody needs something in particular, write to me, and i will confirm
>condition, and price.     sincerely     mike aldana     maldana@quix.net
>
>
>
>
I could use the ash tray tilting cover if it is the right color...
What color is the interior?

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:15:00 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

Andy "defroster head" Green wrote:

...The fan type is probably easiest to install overall and looks more
correct on 1960s era and earlier models.

     But you fail to point out the insulating properties of all the air
     bubbles in the aftermarket grid-type units...     ;)

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:12:04 -0300
Subject: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)

The good Dr. Robert Barry wrote:

...If your car has *four* _round_ headlights and 400 or more cubic inches
under the hood, you ARE driving a musclecar!

     Excellent!  I couldn't have said it better myself!  I tried to think
     up a factory 64-72 musclecar (as opposed to ponycar) that didn't have
     four headlights, and all I could come up with were some of the early
     Super Stock Chryslers.

     BTW, I'll count the 427 Cobra as a sports car...  ;)

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <dbennett@asu.edu>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 02:40:54 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.
>
> **** New stuff to list****
> 69 Long Stroke 400 cu in engine (from automatic car, complete)  $4
>
> Jim Chermack
> '70 SX W-32
> '72 442
> '86 Ninety Eight
> '94 Cutlass Supreme
> '96 C-1500
> Virginia  Beach, VA
> (757) 474-0869


Jim, do you, or anyone for that matter, have any center caps for SSII
wheels for sale.  These are the type that are bolted onto the wheel.
I need a set of four.  Thanks for any, all help.

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:07:48 -0300
Subject: [2] Handling Problem

When I had the shocks and tires installed, the front end was checked,
wheels were alligned and they said everything was okay.  This was done
aproximatley 2500km ago.  Right away, I noticed the problem. They keep
insisting that everything is fine.  Yes I am using stock rims that had
215/75/15s on them befoure.  Yes, I belive the car was in a front-end
accident with the previous owner, judging from paint residual in the right
part of the engine compartment.  I told them this at the shop, they
inspected the car and said it was repaired properly and it is not causing
any problems.  The left-upper ball-joint is new, while others are still
fine (so they said).  My next try was the brakes.  It pulled to the right
along with this handling problem, so I replaced the right caliper and
rotor.   I had the other rotor machined and put new pads on.  This hepled,
but the car still wonders.  My tires are inflated to the max. pressure
stated on the tires (36 psi).  It is really not that bad at speeds of 55mph
and above.  If the road is slanted a lot, then it pulls to that side (heavy
car combined with wide tires, this is to be expected), but the problem is
at lower speeds (25-40 mph).  I just don't know what else to look at.

Igor Todorovic
'81 Delta 88 307 4-dr
'95 Chrysler Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:11:55 -0300
Subject: [2] Specificatons for a 1981 Delta 88

Yes, the 111mph sounds about right, I don't know but had my dad follow me
in the Intrepid and he said that we were at about 180km/h (this is the
speed where the governor cuts the power on this car).

Igor Todorovic
'81 Delta 88 307 4-dr
'95 Chrysler Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:19:17 -0300
Subject: Another sad story

I was at the local junk-yard today getting parts for my cruise control and
saw a fork-lift taking a beautifull '70 Cutlass.  The body on the car was
in perfect shape.  From what I have seen, there was no sign of rust and the
paint was still in good shape.  The underbody was also good.  It dosen't
make me mad that the junk-yard guys are crushing it.  It is their job, they
pick a line of cars and clear it out.  What really pisses-me off is the
idiot that jukned that car for $100 bucks or so.  Who in their right mind
would trash a car that has obviously been taken-care-of.  If people like
that got off their lazy ass and put the car in the paper, they could get a
lot more money for it and save the life of a great car.

Igor Todorovic
'81 Delta 88 307 4-dr
'95 Chrysler Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:29:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Tranny Went Kablooie!

At 01:00 PM 4/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 06:06 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>At 12:52 PM 4/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>>Hey everyone,
>>>
>>>     Well, this past Sunday my transmission (in my '87 Cutlass,200-4R)
>>>decided it had enough. I pulled off my road and gave it some gas and it
felt >>>like I was pushing a brick wall. Gave it a little more gas and it
started to >>>jerk and finally as I began to go up a hill, it went. I had no
drive in any >>>gear. It was like I had neutral in every gear including
reverse. I checked >>>the fluid and it seemed fine except that it looked a
little yellow. Could I >>>have antifreeze leaking into my tranny fluid? >>>
The funny thing was that it just seemed to happen. Friday it was fine.
>>>Saturday it started acting up. I pulled out of my driveway and it didn't
>>>want to shift out of first gear. when it finally did, it jerked real hard
>>>and went into 2nd. All day I kept hearing these clunk kind of noises when I
>>>was driving around town. It would happen after I would stop coasting and
>>>give it a little gas. It was so bad at one point that my girlfriend
actually >>>looked out the back to see of something fell off. A couple more
symptoms >>>were: it didn't want to shift to overdrive right away. It felt
like I was >>>pushing a brick wall when I'd accelerate from a dead stop
(meaning I'd have >>>to have it almost to the floor to get it to move) but
didn't seem too bad >>>after it shifted into 2nd. >>>     Well, that's all I
can think of right now. Sorry this got so long but I >>>wanted to try and be
as detailed as possible. Can someone tell me what the >>>problem might be? I
know that's pretty tough considering it could almost be >>>anything. Sounds to
me like I'm looking at that rebuild I've been wanting >>to do. >>>Thanks in
advance! >>> >>>Andy Geeting >>>'87 Cutlass Supreme >>>'88 Cutlass Supreme
>>>'74 Delta 88 convertible >>>'78 Caprice wagon >>>'36 Plymouth coupe >>> >>>
>>> >>When your TH200 will only go into reverse, you have had in the not too
>>distant past very low oil! (Or possibly burned out oil, TH's require an oil
>>change at about 25,000 miles).  You've burned out the clutches.  I had this
>>happen once, the oil cooler fiting at the bottom of the radiator cracked
>>while I was out.  I noticed the oil on the ground, (it was too late already)
>>and got out a wrench, and some teflon tape.  Tefloned the joint, added some
>>Dexron, and started to drive home.  Got about 2 miles away, and it stopped
>>going forwards.  I drove home in reverse. >> >>Anyway, throw away the TH200,
get a TH350 and go.  It is a direct replacment >>as long as you get all the
TH350 stuff, ie, dipstick tube and dipstick, >>flywheel cover.  If you buy a
rebuilt, make sure it has a factory kick down >>cable.  The adjustable cables
at the top, do not secure as well as the >>factory.  Also, there are two
different atachment clips at the carb., make >>sure you have the one that
matches.  It is a bolt out, bolt in proposition. >> >>The Wiz >> >>P.S.  When
the TH200 went in my '84 Delta, a rebuilder traded me even; my >>core TH200
for a TH350.  Why I don't know, but that tranny now has 90,000 >>miles on it,
1/2 of which behind a mild 455 and it still is operating fine. >> >> >> How
badly will this affect my gas mileage? What about the computer and the
>lock-up torque converter? Can I use a lock-up torque converter with TH-350?
>If not will this affect my computer? The reason I ask this is because I have
>to drive to college everyday and I need a good, reliable car. This is my
>problem, I want performance and reliability too. Is that possible? Thanks. >
>Andy Geeting >'87 Cutlass Supreme >'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham >'74
Delta 88 convertible >'78 Caprice wagon >'36 Plymouth coupe > > > Gas milage
should not change.  Don't know about the lock up torque converter.  I would
think that it would not be noticed by the computer.  The beauty of installing
a TH350 in the place of a TH200 is that it is a bolt and go proposition, and
TH350s are very common.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 03:58:33 -0300
Subject: Synthetic Motor Oil Again

To: Kevin Wong,

I just found your response to my Synthetic Motor oil post of last week.  I
don't know how I missed it.  Anyway, I would say ultimately, but really mean
virtually, everything that has a hydrocarbon constituancy had it origin in
an oil or gas well.  And this includes such things as asprin and synthetic
motor oil.

I did not mean my post to sound like it was a simple conversion process,
from natural to synthetic, as it, does in fact; deal with a very complex and
complicated change of chemistry.

There are some definite advantages built into using synthetic motor oil.
Engines that sit a lot, can benefit because this oil 'clings' better, and is
retained on surfaces for a longer period of time than conventional oil.

And there are some definite disadvantages to its use, among those are price,
problems and LEAKS.  I will expand  on two of these problems in the next two
paragraphs.

I don't think I would use it in an engine with that is still being used with
leaded fuel either.  Mobil is being persued by a class action law suit
caused by their synthetics inability of keep lead in suspension, and it has
caused a large number of engine failures.  The lead creaps into the valve
guides, eventually causing the valve so sieze, and when this happens the
push rods fail, and ...

It is just my belief that you get much better bang for the buck, when you
use $25. worth of conventional oil than it is to use $25. worth of
synthetic.  Especially when one considers that the synthtic is about $5. a
qt, and that 'high' grade conventional oil is less than $5. a gallon, ie,
one can change it much more often at less cost, and I think that this is
where one gets the best value for one's buck.

I don't quite understand all the data that has been posted about much lower
engine operating temps when using it.  Why don't these engines run at the
t'stat temp, instead of lower.  Unless of course they are attempting to say
that they get t'stat op temps with synthetic and raised temps with
conventional oil.  The logic of this, either way, is fleeting for me.  And I
would appreciate a substantial post explaing the concepts, even if I don't
agree.

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 04:04:51 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 cutlass

>>
>I've done this!!~ The 350 motor will work well, but you'll need to change
>the springs in the front. A stock 350 motor mount kit will work just fine
>and... the th200 will bolt up. The th350 tranny will also work, without
>changing the driveshaft. I can go out and look at the car and tell you
>which bolt holes to use to mount the engine to as the motor is out of the
>car. One problem I ran across is emissions. Several states have emissions
>tests or inspections and will not accept an older motor with a newer
>vehicle. Hopefully, yours is not one of them. Also, DON'T  forget the
>grounds. That caused a little problem for me after installation. You'll
>also experience some minor problems with the speedo and dash indicators.
>They'll work, but sometimes lights will come on very dimly. Something to
>do with the computer. Good Luck, e-mail me back if you need any other
>assistance.
>
>Katana72
>


Actually, I'd say the dash problems are isolated, i.e. not related to the
engine swap.  Perhaps dumping the computer might give CEL problems (but I
think with the EMC gone, the light stays off) so I think Rob's lighting
problems are elsewhere.  The V6 and V8's used the same sending units (Or
~could~ use, I should say) so electrically there should be little difference.

  BTW, Rob T.  That address looks familiar.  Do you own a '57 Buick?  Or am
I confusing with another streetbike address I've seen?


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 318 BigBlock
(very)odd-fireV6
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 04:28:33 -0300
Subject: Re: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)

At 03:12 AM 4/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>The good Dr. Robert Barry wrote:
>
>...If your car has *four* _round_ headlights and 400 or more cubic inches
>under the hood, you ARE driving a musclecar!
>
     4  Headlights
     4  X 100 (=400) or more Cubes
     2  Wheels constantly powered...

          Hmmm, we may be on to something, here!   :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 318 BigBlock
(very)odd-fireV6
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 07:34:32 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 cutlass

At 01:09 AM 4/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Are the dash pads and accessories the same in a 4 dr. and coupes?
>


Yes they are.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 07:42:24 -0300
Subject: Re: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)

At 03:12 AM 4/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>The good Dr. Robert Barry wrote:
>
>...If your car has *four* _round_ headlights and 400 or more cubic inches
>under the hood, you ARE driving a musclecar!
>
>     Excellent!  I couldn't have said it better myself!  I tried to think
>     up a factory 64-72 musclecar (as opposed to ponycar) that didn't have
>     four headlights, and all I could come up with were some of the early
>     Super Stock Chryslers.
>
>     BTW, I'll count the 427 Cobra as a sports car...  ;)
>
>     Joe Padavano
>     jpada@orbital.com
>

Joe

        What about 71-72 Ch*velles (SS454), 70-71 M*nte Carlos (SS454),
71-72 Gr*nd Prix, 71 Hemi Cuda's, and if you include Big Block pony cars you
car addtwo more. Just my 2 cents worth.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:48:21 -0300
Subject: 1974 Oldsmobile Bulletins For Sale (4/16)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

A group of Oldsmobile Product Campaign (Recall), Dealer Information and
Dealer Technical Bulletins from 1974.

Bulletin Pages Title

74-C-4     4   1974 Cutlass Front Seat Lap Belt Retractors
74-I-1     2   Consumer Information Books
74-I-2     4   1974 Paint Stock Numbers
74-I-3     1   1974 Vinyl Trim Color and Vinyl Top Repair Kit
Information
                     (3 copies)
74-I-4     3   Exterior Plastic Refinishing Procedure
74-I-4A    3   Exterior Plastic Refinishing Procedure
74-I-5     1   Usage of Exterior Colors by Assembly Plants
74-I-8     4   Painting of Interior Trim Componets
74-I-10    1   Fuel Identification
74-I-12A   2   Clock Warranty Repair Supplemental Information
74-I-19    1   Kent-Moore Miles Per Gallon Tester Information
74-I-30    1   Damaged Tires on Claim For Damage or Shortage - Form
104-Olds
74-T-1     2   Tilt and Travel Steering Wheel Trim Plate Repair
74-T-2     1   1974 A/C Hose Replacement Parts
74-T-3     1   Radio Knob Spacers
74-T-4     1   Ignition Timing Indicator
74-T-5     3   A/C Thermal Limiter Diagnosis
74-T-6     1   Silastic Valve Cover Gasket Installation
74-T-7     2   Center Air Vent Control
74-T-9A    3   Ignition Interlock - Driver's and/or Passenger's Seat
Sensor
                    Switch Installation
74-T-13    1   Replacement of Front Upper Control Arm Bushings and/or
Pivot
                    Shaft With Welded Bushing Retaining Nuts
74-T-14    1   1974 Second Type V.I.R. (E.E.V.I.R.)
74-T-15    2   1974 88 and 98 Warped Glove Box Door Repair

This group of 1974 Bulletins is for sale at $20.00, including postage to
any address in North America.  (4/16/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this package of Bulletins or if you would like additional information
about them.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:14:00 -0300
Subject: Re: rearend ratio

OL>anyway to tell without removing the cover?

If you have a tach. It's  tire radius * rpm / 168 / mph = gear ratio. If
you have an overdrive leave it in drive not o.d to get the rpm. This
wont give you the exact ratio because of slippage in the transmission.
It should give you a close enough number though.

Daren

daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:41:20 -0300
Subject: New ISP address for me

     To anyone who cares (and to keep mail from bouncing back to ya)

     I am leaving Compuserve as of Fri 4/18 and my new internet mailing
     address will be - "brad442@erols.com"

     An unsubscribe to the Oldsmobile digest was sent 4/15
     I'm still available at work at "brad.nicholson@ssa.gov"

     That is all

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com (STARTING 4/18/97)

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:15:24 -0300
Subject: Olds sighting in PHR

Yesterday I recieved my new issue of Popular Hot Rodding.  Towards the
back was an article about installing new plug wires.  They had a single
black and white picture of an engine getting new wires. Lo and behold,
it was an Oldsmobile V-8.  I know it's not much in the way of Olds
coverage, they didn't even mention Olds in the text, but it was better
than nothing.  And as a side note, they are putting together an early
Firechicken to race against a come-here-oh at a few events.  They are
actually using a Pontiac engine in it.  There may be hope for this
magazine yet.  If only they had used a 64 or 65 4-4-2.

Dave Wyatt,
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:32:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Used Olds Prices (was '86 442)

Jason Labay wrote:
>
> For some odd reason it seems that every 85-87 4-4-2 that I see for sale
> around here is at least over $10,000. There is someone here trying to sell a
> 1986 4-4-2 with 98,500 miles for $11,000. Ok now if this car is worth
> $11,000, I should ask $20,000 for my 1980 4-4-2, about 3,000 less were made
> and it is the same G-body style, and it has the 350 as compared to the 307.

Wow just think what I could get for my 1968 4-4-2?  Hmmm.... :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:46:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 1971 cutlass for parts

Hi all,

I was wondering if the light fixture, I assume above the radio, was
available on the 68 442?  Or maybe just the Cutlass line.

Let me know.

Chris Sparks (68 442)

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:47:59 -0300
Subject: Re: 1971 cutlass for parts

Hi all,

I just want to ask if anyone on this list lives and drives their
Cutlasses/442s in the Southern California Area (LA/Orange County area).
I would like to keep my eye out for you so that I can appreciate your
cars.  Oh heck I appreciate anybodys old Oldsmobile.

Chris Sparks
68 442

PS Mail to me at sparks@aisf.com

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:40:40 -0300
Subject: Re: [2] Handling Problem

At 02:07 AM 4/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
>insisting that everything is fine.  Yes I am using stock rims that had
>215/75/15s on them befoure.  Yes, I belive the car was in a front-end

I don't know if wider rims (say 8" wide) would affect the footprint, and
thus the way the car tracks.

>but the car still wonders.  My tires are inflated to the max. pressure
>stated on the tires (36 psi).  It is really not that bad at speeds of 55mph

I'd try different tire pressure settings. Usually, max pressure is *not* the
optimal tire pressure for your car; it's simply the *most* the tires are
designed to take. Start at the recommended tire pressure for your car
(probably around 28psi all around), and add 2psi to a pair of wheels to see
if it improves. Then add to the other pair of tires and see if it makes it
better as well. It's a lot like an eye-exam (which is better... This... Or
this...); just as tedious, but the only way to optimize your tire pressure.

>and above.  If the road is slanted a lot, then it pulls to that side (heavy
>car combined with wide tires, this is to be expected), but the problem is
>at lower speeds (25-40 mph).  I just don't know what else to look at.

Also check the rag joint, and the lash in the steering box. I suffer the
same problem in my '78 Electra (same chassis as yours): all new front end
parts, but with the 235/70's, it tends to wander a bit. I've gotten used to
it, but I plan on adding a Monte SS steering box and pump, new springs and
decent handling shocks, and while I've got the springs out I might as well
replace the bushings (front and rear) with polygraphite bushings.

If it doesn't handle well after that, then I'll just have to graft on a
Corvette suspension!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:40:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!

At 11:25 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>>I am looking for a 65, 66, 68-70 olds cutlass 2dr or 442 preferably a
>>>66. around $1200-1500 one in need of care , w/ or w/o engine, plaese
>>>send info.
>>
>>Hey! What's the matter with the '67??? It's those funny headlights, isn't
it? > >Bob > >        A friend of mine is finishing a nice 66 442 Holiday
coupe. Got a >rebuilt and built short stroke 400 and a automatic. It has been
switched to >a TH400. Replated bumpers, beautiful grille, super straight body
better yet >he'll let it go for $1500 right now before he puts everything back
together.

I'm not actually the one looking for an early 442 (I'd love one, but don't
tempt me!); I was just commenting that the original poster was looking for
virtually anything *but* a 1967 442. He might be interested in the one
you're speaking of; it sounds like a good deal, if you've got some time on
your hands.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:46:29 -0300
Subject: Re: 78-79 wanted

Reply to message from hanthorn@inwave.com of Tue, 15 Apr
>
>anyone with a 78-79 2dr cutlass half way decent? for sale preferably a
>beater......but a good driver
>
>                  http://hanthorn@inwave.com



  Hi, I/m not sure how far you want to go, or how much you want to pay, but
here in northern ohio there's always seens to be a few in the paper for
around $2000 or so, and I have one myself, body's decent, a little mud
hewre n there, nice interior, 260 V8 (but i'd have to keep the tranny)
the rear frame isn't in that great a shape, but it should be fixable, this
would make a nice project, and i'd proabably let it go cheap, i need some
room :), lemme know

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:58:08 -0300
Subject: Re: [2] Handling Problem

I had a vette that had the same problem. They said the front end was good.
I replaced the ball joints and problem went away. It can be difficult to
tell how much play is in these joints.When I removed them and looked, the
lowers were definitly worn. Why do you have one new one on top? The bottom
joints usually go first.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:21:06 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 -442 NOT '67!

> At 05:20 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >I am looking for a 65, 66, 68-70 olds cutlass 2dr or 442 preferably a
> >66. around $1200-1500 one in need of care , w/ or w/o engine, plaese
> >send info.

Robert Barry asks:

> Hey! What's the matter with the '67??? It's those funny headlights, isn't
it?

Naw, he's just resigned himself to the fact that he doesn't *deserve* the
perfection that is a '67 :)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:33:15 -0300
Subject: RE: "Real" Musclecars (was: Cutlass 442 ???)

>What about 71-72 Ch*velles (SS454), 70-71 M*nte Carlos (SS454),
>71-72 Gr*nd Prix, 71 Hemi Cuda's, and if you include Big Block pony cars you
>car addtwo more. Just my 2 cents worth.

>Jim Chermack


Last time I checked, 71 Hemi Cudas had four Headlights. 70's only have two.
Just an observation.

Jim Rabideau
70 W30

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 06:34:31 -0300
Subject: Re: 1971 cutlass for parts

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was wondering if the light fixture, I assume above the radio, was
> available on the 68 442?  Or maybe just the Cutlass line.
>
> Let me know.
>
> Chris Sparks (68 442)

Chris,

My 1968 442 convertible has the courtesy light above the radio.  It is a
black trimmed light w/switch included.  It also comes on when the door
is opened or the light switch turned fully counter-clockwise.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:48:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Ramrod 350

On Apr 15,  2:33pm, hanthorn wrote:
> Subject: Ramrod 350
> please send any pictures or information on RamRod Olds.  I believe they
> were  limited to production in 68 or 69 only 5 hundred something were
> built.
>
>-- End of excerpt from hanthorn


1968 only, with production figures as follows:

Model327738 produced
3600674 produced
428730 produced


Mark

------------------------------

From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 14:54:20 -0300
Subject: Subject: Re: Torque Converter for Swap

>At 05:35 PM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Hi all,
>>       My mechanic just informed me that I have a high RPM stall speed
>>torque converter in my 72 Cutlass with a 455.  It is too high for
>>this engine.  It is probably around 3000 rpm (exact rpm can be
>>verified).
>
>Does your engine rev a bit before it begins to move? Is it a stock engine?
>What exactly led him to this conclusion, and what makes him think it's too
>high for this engine? (I'm a natural skeptic, auto-wise)

It is clear that it is a higer than stock torque converter.  While in
drive,
standing still, and with the brakes applied, he achieved RPMs of around
3000 RPM before loading up.  This is measured with the factory
Tic-Toc-Tac.
We would need to verify this with a more trustworthy tach to get an
exact stall
speed.  From a standing start, the car really winds out before
engaging.  This
engine has lots of torque even at pretty low RPMs, which I am missing
out on.
It is a stock 455 4 bbl.  Despite this, I cannot spin the tires from a
standing
start.  It really feels like there is a rubber band connection between
the
engine and tires (there isn't - I checked <g>).

>
>>I would like to put a stock converter in the car.  I understand that
>
>There are aftermarket converters available for very reasonable prices
>(~$90-$110) that have near-stock or slightly over stock stall speeds. I'd
>recommend against a used one, as the metal shavings from the clutches tend
>to exist in the converter, and then flow though your tranny once it is
>installed.

This is a good point.  I figured if I can find a comparable mileage
converter
installed in a car, it "should" be no worse than my converter.  If I get
no takers,
I will go this route.

- --
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL
mailto:brett@mcs.com

72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)

------------------------------

From: User552217@aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:59:09 -0300
Subject: Re: 1990 Vintage

A couple of years ago i purchased a 1991 Cutlass Supreme Covert.  Have been
pleased with it. Leaks a little during heavy rain but otherwise is a fine
machine.  I have been looking for production numbers for this model and if
anyone has any info i could get  i would be forever grateful. thanks for the
help!

       charles.

      1982 cutlass brougham
      1991 cutlass convert
      1994 cutlass ceira

------------------------------

From: hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:59:07 -0300
Subject: 68 442

I noticed alot of 68 442 talk lately.  I have a 68 442, and so does a
friend of mine.  If you live in WI or the surounding area and have a 68
442s for sale, or any parts..(need drivers Quarter panel) please let me
know, because you can never have enough 442s. I want more!!
Anyone know how many 68 442s were built with the automatic shifter on
the column???
                        http://hanthorn@inwave.com

Marty Hanthorn
68 442 Holiday Cp
69 Nova (parts car if anyone needs parts)
72 Nova
64 Vette

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:04:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 1971 cutlass for parts

Hi Bill,

> My 1968 442 convertible has the courtesy light above the radio.  It
> is a black trimmed light w/switch included.  It also comes on when
> the door is opened or the light switch turned fully counter-clockwise.

In checking with the 1968 Oldsmobile wholesale car order sheet, the
option U29 (Courtesy lamps) came standard on convertibles.  On the
sports/holiday coupes they were included with options M14 (Heavy duty
3 speed fully synchonized transmission), M20 (4 speed wide ratio fully
synchronized transmission), or M21 (4 speed close ration fully
synchronized transmission) when D55 (Sports console - with floor shift)
was ordered.  So I guess this light wasn't meant for my car since it
is a automatic.

Oh well...

Chris Sparks
68 442

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:11:56 -0300
Subject: Olds V6 Oil Delivery.....Comments?

        Greetings, fellow Oldsmobilers!

        I copied the following thread from another mailing list to you for
     your comments.  I'm not trying to create tension or start a flame war
     over differing opinions on cars but since I have a "vested" interest
     in an Olds V6 (wifey's car), I'd like your input on this thread.


Peter G. Teubel

pteubel@safety1st.com
'51 98 (50% complete....currently a driveway ornament) 48K
'52 Plymouth (Project-in-waiting....driveway ornament ª2) ??K
'73 Imperial (a.k.a. USS Enterprise)  28K
'82 98 (a.k.a USS Nimitz) 80K
'84 C10 P-up (junkyard hauler) 273K
'86 Ciera (Wife's car) 70K
'88 Subaru Turbo (Distainful communter vehicle that actually gets out
                  of its own way) 59K




______________________________ Forward Header
__________________________________ Subject: Re: Why do rods fly out??? Date:
4/16/97 7:26 AM


>   Here's a good one.   I borrowed a friend's '80 Olds Cutlass while Ol'
>Yeller goes to the shop for some mechanical tweaking.   I'm driving home
>the other day and for no reason I start getting a loud chirping sound from
>the GM V-6 up front--at idle only of course.
>
>  I suspect a rod so I take it to the mechanic and he says, "YUP.   You
>got a rod about to let go in there."
>
>   Well, this got me to thinking.  I was always gentle with the Olds--
>So, I'm wondering what causes a rod to let go.   The mechanic says that
>the V-6 in the olds was a wimpy engine any way and that it wasn't my
>fault--just happened while I was driving it.
>
>   So, to get to the point...  What causes a rod to cut loose?


A local autocrosser, Chris, has been campaigning a Starfire
with one of these for the past dozen years [and doing damn good - he's
frequently 1st or 2nd in the season points].  Over the course of time
I have learned from him many of the internal wonders of this motor,
which I will now relate unto you.

The Olds V-6 oiling system starts out like any other oiling system, with
a pickup sucking oil out of the sump for the pump, which is pretty
much your standard oil pump.  This pump has your typical pressure relief
system, with a spring that dumps oil back to the sump at 60 lbs - IF
the spring lives up to factory spec.  Sometimes they dump at 30.  But
wait, there's more...

>From the pump, the oil goes up to the rockers from one back of cylinders,
down to the lifters for that bank, then to the cam bearings, then to
the other bank's lifters, then up to the rockers for the other bank,
and then and only then down to the crank, through the crank to the
rods.  You can imagine how long it takes oil to get to the crank
and rods on start up or after a cornering interruption.  But wait!
There's more...

At the back end of the block is a plug for the gallery feeding the
crank.  With a new high volume oil pump with a -real- 75lb relief
spring, Chris has measured 5 pounds pressure at this point.  This
is before the oil has gone to the crank and rod bearings, mind you.
Essentially, this motor is splash lubricated right from the
factory.

Chris's solution is to run an external line from the pump directly to this
gallery.  He hasn't tossed a motor since he started doing this.



------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª614
********************************
