To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #682


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 19 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 682

Re: PUBS (this isn't a GTO mailing list)
Re: '67 442 ?'s
Re: 4-4-2 taillights
installing 455
unscribe oldsmobile
Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters
Dyno testing
Exhaust article
Olds 442 PROM
Defoggers (was: Overheating)
Dipstick ?
Not a GTO!
Photo-Flo  Was: Wiz?
Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)
Re: Oil discrepancies....
Re: Dyno testing
Re: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint
Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters
Re: Dipstick ?
69 choke spring/cover
Re: Red Air cleaner paint
Re: Just what is the difference
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)
1977 442
RE: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint
Wanted: Cutlass 442
HOT ROD article
IVOC meet (again)
Re: Not a GTO!
Help   Cam Walking
Need clutch fan test
HOT ROD article
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Re: new papa-again!! (Axle code reply!)
Email
Re: HOT ROD article
Re: installing 455
Motor Oil, AC Compressor
Re: Oil discrepancies....
Re: One for the Cutlass folks
welder question
Re: HOT ROD article
Re: PUBS (this isn't a GTO mailing list)
Re: Overheating
71' 442

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:00:20 -0300
Subject: Re: PUBS (this isn't a GTO mailing list)

> >>Why don't you get on a GTO mailing list?
> >>This is Olds country. No offence, but I get enough junk mail allready.
>
> >
>  he'd easily be
> >led to believe that Olds owners are, as a rule, a*sholes.  Which would give
> >him one more reason to buy a GTO.  Do we really want him to think that?
> >Yes, you're right, this ~is~ Olds country here, but I readily welcome any
> >Buick or Pontiac that cares to come for a visit,
>
>
>
>
> Kudos to you Charley!  I couldn't agree more!  There are very helpful
> people on this list who are vested in many areas of expertese and are more
> than willing to offer advice or even help with "connections" or whereabouts
> of cars, parts and idividuals with certain knowledge that can solve
> problems.
>
> I felt a little gun shy about asking my question about bandwidth a few
> weeks ago,  but all of the replys and help that came in were great.  It was
> totally non-Olds, but help still arrived!  That is what makes this group so
> great!  We for the most part will put in our 2 cents to anyone who asks!
>
> I am an Olds enthusiast first, and a car enthusiast second.  We all have
> something in common with ANYONE who is into preservation and care of
> cars/trucks/boats/ whatever.  It is our hobby!
>
> Coming across as you say...a*sholes is just what we can't have.  It give us
> a pompus image like we are holier than thou.  I for one will offer any help
> I can whenever I can!
>
> Thanks again Charly for a great reply!  Now if I can just get you to stop
> bashing Chevys!!  :)
>
> Tony
>
> 70 442 W-30
> 70 Toro GT W-34
> 65 Jetstar 88 W/4-speed
> 85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
> 92 Seville STS
> 65 Jetstar 88 Saved from demo derby!
 If anybody hasn't looked at my run down I own two olds and simply
refuse to own a F*rd or Ch*vy!!! I love Olds as the '62 was my first
car ever and I still own it! Does that not make a statement. I love
calssic and muscle cars, The Pontiac GTO is sister to the 442 and why
is it "against the Olds law" to stay with in the family. I own my
dream car of a 442, but desire more! I want a W-30 w/ matching
numbers, I want a GTO as my next dream car! HORSES!!! TORQUE!!!
POWER!!! OH, THE SOUND OF A BIG BLOCK!!!

Ben
'62 Olds F-85 (first car & still own it!)
'68 OLDS 442

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:36:55 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

I have a 425 in my '70 cutlass.  It came from a '66 Delta 88, would
this engine be a rare find?

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:28:33 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 taillights

Finally something I can speak with authority about!  I still have the
original taillight lenses from my 4-4-2.  They do not have the chrome
ring on the raised area.  According to the parts book at the dealership
the lenses with the chrome ring are for the Cutlass model.  I ordered
new lenses for my car in 1984 from Oldsmobile.  I had to specify 4-4-2
lenses due to the difference.  At that time you could get either lens.
I was lucky and ordered a few other items that are no longer available
at the same time.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:57:36 -0300
Subject: installing 455

When I dropped in my 425 big block, I had one HELL of a time getting
the headers to fit right.  It might be a possibility that you will
have a hard time to.  To avoid this, try dropping the engine in with
the headers bolted up.  It will make it harder to fasten the motor
mounts, but it will still be easier than pushing them up from
underneath. My big block is in my '70 olds.  Also, You may have to
bend in one of the header primaries on the drivers side of the engine
as it may knock the steering column when the engine torques while
going around a turn.  Watch for this and take it careful when doing
the first test drive.

Mat Nadrofsky,

'70 Olds Cutlass Supreme 425

------------------------------

From: Karl Davlin <kdavlin@bigfoot.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:19:59 -0300
Subject: unscribe oldsmobile



------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:44:02 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters

>      I seem to recall the same sort of thing on the 68s.  I also believe
>      that the 69 (and 70, if I remember correctly) taillights had either
>      silver or black paint on the sides, depending on whether the car was a
>      Cutlass or 442.  And the 67, with the over/under taillights used a red
>      taillight over a white backup light on the non-442s (and Supremes?)
>      and two red taillights with separate bumper-mounted backup lights on
>      the 442.
>
>      Joe Padavano

The rear bumper is the same for '67 442s and Supremes, with the separate
square backup lights.  All other Cutlii for '67 had thewhite backup light
in the lower lenses.



Tim (Who Will Soon Free Up a Nice Non-442/CS Rear Bumper When He Re-chromes
and Installs the Correct Piece) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Mark Tonazzi" <Mark.Tonazzi.0193171@nt.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:50:26 -0300
Subject: Dyno testing

        Reply to:   Dyno testing

Anyone know where to get your engine dyno tested in the Chicago area???

MT

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:48:00 -0300
Subject: Exhaust article

A couple of people emailed me looking for details on the exhaust system
article in a Pontiac magazine.  I lost your original emails so please
contact me again at r_mullen@merck.com.

FWIW, the lowest back pressure muffler of the ten types tested was a
Supertrapp 18, with a back pressure of 58 inches of water.  The worst
one tested was a Flowmaster 42551H at 159 inches of water.

The quietest muffler was the Dynomax 17749 at 82 dbls (static engine
speed of 2200 rpm's).  The loudest was the Flowmaster 42551H at 90 dbls.
 Open headers were 95 dbls.
Scott

------------------------------

From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:10:34 -0300
Subject: Olds 442 PROM

I found out what PROM my '87 442 takes.  It is a Signetics 82S181 (1Kx8).
I guess the carburated vehicles don't need much memory compared to the 2732
in the GN.  A replacement is an AMD27S181.  Now if I can figure out the
data map.  It is somewhat different than GN code.  Thanks for anyone that
sent me info on this.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

From: padavano.joe@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:33:28 -0300
Subject: Defoggers (was: Overheating)

Robert Barry wrote:

> Geez, I guess it will give me time to install that aftermarket
> defroster grid on my rear window. Now, let me see, where did I
> put that soapy water...

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike replied:

It's on the top shelf over the workbench right
next to the clock that won't run and the WD-40.   ;)

     Funny you should mention that.  On a recent trip into Trak Auto (who,
     in the best Radio Shack tradition, were out of the spark plugs I
     needed) I spied the Andy Green Memorial WINDOW TINT INSTALLATION
     KIT!!!!!  I swear I am not making this up.

     The kit contains:

     One Spray Bottle
     One Squeegee
     One Razor Blade

     Price:  Only $3.99

     Presumably the razor blade is included to allow you to slit your
     wrists after becoming distraught over the air bubbles in your window
     tint/defogger.  ;)

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 16:44:45 -0300
Subject: Dipstick ?

Not wanting to sound like one, I need a little help in figuring out if I have
the correct dipstick and/or tube in my car.  I have a 72 Cutlass Convert.
with a 68 350 in it.  I beleive the repair shop that put in the 68 replacement
engine may have installed a 72 dipstick or tube.  My oil level always shows
it being at the end of the dipstick when I know it is full.  Are there any
identifying part numbers on the tube or stick that would help to identify?
Does anyone know if the tubes or sticks were different from 68 to 72?  I am
getting ready to pull it out of storage and would like to correct this
annoying problem asap.  I was just going to try and purchase a 68 tube and
stick, but thought you guys might have some better ideas.


- -Rick
 72 Cutlass Sumpreme Convert.

------------------------------

From: padavano.joe@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:50:13 -0300
Subject: Not a GTO!

     In the general theme of Oldses being confused with other cars, I can't
     tell you the number of times my 69 H/O has been referred to as a Judge
     (well, at the time the H/O emblems were not on the car).  I'm planning
     to get plates that say NOTA GTO when I finish the restoration.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:55:45 -0300
Subject: Photo-Flo  Was: Wiz?

Christian Fair wrote:
>
> Can you tell me more about this Photo-Flo in place of water wetter?

Photo-Flo is used to lower the surface tension of the (mostly-water)
chemicals when processing film.  It helps to remove bubbles that
might adhere to the surface of the emulsion which would result in spots.

Never thought of using it in a car motor (much higher temperatures)
though but the theory seems sound. It should promote better heat transfer
for the same reason.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:59:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)

padavano.joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
>   I spied the Andy Green Memorial WINDOW TINT INSTALLATION KIT!!!!!
>   I swear I am not making this up.
>
>   The kit contains:
>
>   One Spray Bottle
>   One Squeegee
>   One Razor Blade
>
>   Price:  Only $3.99

HA!  So there!

>   Presumably the razor blade is included to allow you to slit your
>   wrists after becoming distraught over the air bubbles in your window
>   tint/defogger.  ;)

Andy?  ANDY?!?

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@spoiler.interaccess.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:08:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil discrepancies....

Andrew C. Green wrote:

<Snip>

> What's the listed capacity for your engine? Is it definitely 5 quarts?
> The rod-knocker V6 engine for the Cutlass, for example, is only 4. Assuming
> you have the right dipstick in there and the oil level isn't going _down_,
> I wouldn't sweat it.
The engine capacity is definitely 5 quarts, I've been changing the oil
in this baby since I bought it three years ago.  Takes four quarts for
the engine, plus about a quart for the filter.
>
> >Pressure guage shows about 45psi on start up, stays fairly
> >high for a while and then after 15 min of driving or so, will drop to a
> >nice 15 psi at idle.  Any ideas on what lurks in my engine now??
>
> Oil?  :-)  Those pressures sound reasonable.
>
Yeah, could be that since I got the valve cover gaskets done there is
more pressure in the system as a whole...but I remember it being about
30-35 at idle on startup...

> >Clogged passages??  I could see not getting all the oil out because of
> >some trapped up top, but they didn't say anything when about it when
> >they took the rocker covers off.  MAJOR sludge in the pan??  I don't
> >think so as I have always been good about changing the oil every 3,000.
> >Should I run some CD-2 through the system or would that be courting
> >disaster??
>
> Hate to sound dense, but I don't see a problem here, nor do I see any need
> to put CD-2 or anything else in there. It sounds like you've been taking
> proper care of it.
>
:-) Thanks!  But I still can't figure out what could be taking up the
"space" in the engine for the 5th quart (or so..) that I have always had
to put in to top it off...

- --
- ---Matt
'86 442
- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
remove the "spoiler" for replies |
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 17:13:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Dyno testing

At 01:50 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>        Reply to:   Dyno testing
>
>Anyone know where to get your engine dyno tested in the Chicago area???
>
>MT
>
>
>

  If you're talking about the engine in the car, I've gone to Z-Frank Chevy
on the north side on Western Ave..  The guy who ran it was really cool, took
me around to see all 'vettes waiting to be fixed, didn't charge me anything.
Great deal.  Call first and make sure you talk to whoever is running it now.
Sales guys sucked, but the mechnics were interested just because they didn't
see too many hot rods coming in anymore.

  If it's out of the car, there used to be a place on the south side called
Caramacenies(?sp.), but I don't know if they are there anymore.  Call the
Chevy Shop on Cicero, the old guy who runs the place is knowledgeable and
his prices are better than Jegs and Summitt on many things. Once his mind is
made up there's no arguement to be made with him unless you like beating
your head against a brick wall. In other words, know what you want in
advance.  He should know of a dyno in the area.

  Later.

  Paul

BTW:  What are you having tested?

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:41:03 -0300
Subject: Re: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint

jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:
>
> A couple questions:
>
> 1)  I am about to paint the 4bbl Air cleaner on my Cutlass, and I have had
> little luck finding a close match to the shade of red that is on it.  It (as
> most of you know) is kind of an orangish-red and I have looked all over, and
> haven't found anything too close.  The closest I have found so far is Krylon
> "Banner Red," but it still doesn't have quite enough of the orangish tint to
> it.  Anyone know where to find something closer without having it custom
> mixed?
>
> 2)  I am still looking for a paint match for the Gold color high-heat
> resistant engine paint on my 350, and every single color I have doesn't
> quite match.  Year one told me that they discontinued selling what they had,
> due to the fact that it really didn't match either.  Has anyone found a good
> reliable paint that matches?
>
> Thanks,
>
> It's good to be back!
>   .
> / | \
> | | |
> |/|\|
> \ | /
> Jeff Zeilmann
> SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
> '68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible


GoodDay

Don't know about the Red Air Cleaner paint but,

Write to these people and ask for a catalog(free) they have
alot of factory paint for engines and all kinds of parts
and they are advertised as OEM Appearance.......

Write to : THE EASTWOOD COMPANY
           BOX 3014
           MALVERN,PA 19355-0714

I Don't know if they ahave a web-page or not,
but i will be looking.

PS:  I Have been getting this catalog for about six months now
     but have never ordered anything, so I really can,t say
     if the colors are a good match or not.

If anyone has ever ordered paint or anything else from EASTWOOD
let me know how good or bad there product(s) are..

See Ya......

82 Cutlass 455 (building for drag car)

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:12:04 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters

At 04:12 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I once heard that the taillights on *most* 1970 4-4-2s were different
>than those on the Cutlass models.  Each of the four Cutlass lenses
>supposedly had a silver or white pinstripe around the edge of the red
>part of the lens, and this stripe was not applied to the 4-4-2 lenses.
>Can anyone corroborate this information?..were there any other taillight
oddities in the '64-'72 Cutlass / 4-4-2 lines?  From what Graham is saying,
sounds like there was >something special about the '68 Cutlass S / 4-4-2
taillights...
>
>

Hey to everyone,

        The skinny on the taillight thing is for 70; 442 coupes had a smooth
all red lens, Convertibles had the chrome molding on them due to they were
based on the Cutlass Supreme and ALL Cutlass Supreme had the chrome bezel.
The Cutlass and the 'S' cars All had the painted raised area. This includes
F-85's. Now for the 68's; 442 and Cutlass had a lens with a SINGLE chrome
molding around them and ALL others had a dual chrome molding( one on each
side of the lens. There were differences in ALL model years except for 64,
65, (67 Cutlass Supremes and 442's  had two red lens and the backup lights
in the center of the bumper) the rest had a upper red and a lower white
lens, 71 and 72 years. 66, 69, 70 and some later years had differences in
lens between different models. Hope this clears it up.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:16:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Dipstick ?

At 04:44 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>
>Not wanting to sound like one, I need a little help in figuring out if I have
>the correct dipstick and/or tube in my car.  I have a 72 Cutlass Convert.
>with a 68 350 in it.  I beleive the repair shop that put in the 68
replacement >engine may have installed a 72 dipstick or tube.  My oil level
always shows >it being at the end of the dipstick when I know it is full.  Are
there any >identifying part numbers on the tube or stick that would help to
identify? >Does anyone know if the tubes or sticks were different from 68 to
72?  I am >getting ready to pull it out of storage and would like to correct
this >annoying problem asap.  I was just going to try and purchase a 68 tube
and >stick, but thought you guys might have some better ideas. > > >-Rick > 72
Cutlass Sumpreme Convert. > > Rick

        Here's what you got. A long 68 tube and a short 72 Stick. I would
repplace the whole thing with a new matched set. Year One offers them for
about $8-10 for each piece. Total there were at least three different tube
and stick setups.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:24:20 -0300
Subject: 69 choke spring/cover

Anyone know where I can find a carb divorced choke spring/rod/cover for
my 69 H/O 455?  It is of the run of the mill Cutlass/442 4-bbl. type.  I
have heard Brother's has 'em, but they haven't sent my coil springs for
the suspension yet (ordered in MARCH!) so I don't want to wait until I'm
dead to get one.  Carb number 7029251.

Thanks,

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:33:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Red Air cleaner paint

jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com wrote:
>
> A couple questions:
>
> 1)  I am about to paint the 4bbl Air cleaner on my Cutlass, and I have had
> little luck finding a close match to the shade of red that is on it.  It (as
> most of you know) is kind of an orangish-red and I have looked all over, and
> haven't found anything too close.  The closest I have found so far is Krylon
> "Banner Red," but it still doesn't have quite enough of the orangish tint to
> it.  Anyone know where to find something closer without having it custom
> mixed?
>
> 2)  I am still looking for a paint match for the Gold color high-heat
> resistant engine paint on my 350, and every single color I have doesn't
> quite match.  Year one told me that they discontinued selling what they had,
> due to the fact that it really didn't match either.  Has anyone found a good
> reliable paint that matches?
>
> Thanks,
>
> It's good to be back!
>   .
> / | \
> | | |
> |/|\|
> \ | /
> Jeff Zeilmann
> SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
> '68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible


After Looking At The Front Of My EASTWOOD Catalog
I Realized The Http On Right There On The Cover
IMAGE THAT.. :)

Here It Is..

http://www.eastwoodco.com

------------------------------

From: "Steve C. Monty" <anything-auto@geocities.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:55:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Just what is the difference

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>
> Ok, this has been bugging me for too long:  I'm always being told that a
> pontiac 455 from a TA is the same as an oldsmobile, basically. I know
> the distributor's are in front, but just what are the majour internal
> differences (bore/stroke/degree of V?)
>
First off most T/A's had a "403" which was just a down graded 455. As
far as I know they are the same engine. Its all General Motors Division!

Later! Steve

Come Visit Me At:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7112/ - The Only Automotive Page!!!
http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/1711/

------------------------------

From: Clark Rempel <amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:18:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

Hello, my name is Clark, and I am new to the list.  I'm currently
considering the purchase of, what I am told, is a '77 Hurst/Olds.  The
current owner (the second) seems to know very little about the car: a
medium blue Cutlass with light blue body length "Hurst/Olds - W30"
stripes.  According to the current owner the car was repainted several
years ago and the stripes re-applied with an aftermarket stencil kit.  I
have looked the car over thoroughly (it's in beautiful shape) and the
stripes appear to be its only distinguishing feature.  Is there any sure
fire method of authenticating the car as a genuine Hurst?  Serial number?
 Any special parts to look for?
Thanks in advance - Clark Rempel   (amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca)

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:25:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)

>     Funny you should mention that.  On a recent trip into Trak Auto (who,
>     in the best Radio Shack tradition, were out of the spark plugs I
>     needed) I spied the Andy Green Memorial WINDOW TINT INSTALLATION
>     KIT!!!!!  I swear I am not making this up.
>
>     The kit contains:
>
>     One Spray Bottle
>     One Squeegee
>     One Razor Blade
>
>     Price:  Only $3.99
>
>     Presumably the razor blade is included to allow you to slit your
>     wrists after becoming distraught over the air bubbles in your window
>     tint/defogger.  ;)
>
>     Joe Padavano

Y'know, that reminds me of a guy who went to my high school.  He installed
window tint on his 80-something mustang.  It looked crappy and had it's fair
share of bubbles.  (as is tradition with most mustangs that have glass
tinted by a 16 year-old)  He certainly wasn't the most adept person in the
world, and he installed the tint film on the *outside* of the window.  Well,
somebody stole it.  Helped themselves and peeled it off without a trace.  It
was pretty funny at the time, anyway.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "C.K.G-B" <bluffin@netins.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:13:57 -0300
Subject: 1977 442

Looking for the shell of a 1977 442, if you can help let me know.

Thanks a million, my son will be in heaven if mom can help him get his
back on the road.

Chris Blumenstein

------------------------------

From: "Robert K. Whitaker" <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:07:51 -0300
Subject: RE: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC6481.79F9BCE0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Fusick has the correct color paint for the air cleaner.  I painted mine with
and it turned out really nice.

Robert Whitaker
69 H/O 455

- ----------
From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com[SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 1997 1:21 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint

A couple questions:

1)  I am about to paint the 4bbl Air cleaner on my Cutlass, and I have had
little luck finding a close match to the shade of red that is on it.  It (as
most of you know) is kind of an orangish-red and I have looked all over, and
haven't found anything too close.  The closest I have found so far is Krylon
"Banner Red," but it still doesn't have quite enough of the orangish tint to
it.  Anyone know where to find something closer without having it custom
mixed?

2)  I am still looking for a paint match for the Gold color high-heat
resistant engine paint on my 350, and every single color I have doesn't
quite match.  Year one told me that they discontinued selling what they had,
due to the fact that it really didn't match either.  Has anyone found a good
reliable paint that matches?

Thanks,

It's good to be back!
  .
/ | \
| | |
|/|\|
\ | /
Jeff Zeilmann
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible



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------------------------------

From: David Jenkins <David@vinca.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:51:40 -0300
Subject: Wanted: Cutlass 442

Looking for a nice Cutlass 442 65-70 to cruise in with my wife and boys.  Had
a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible and sold it.  I've missed it.  I have a very
nice '79 Corvette - white/AC/Auto/L82/ª match/red leather with 47K miles.
Very stock except for real wire chrome wheels.  Looking for a straight trade
for a car of comparable value.  Hope this isn't the wrong forum but I want an
Olds again. Thanks for your interest in advance.

Dave Jenkins
'66 Olds Cutlass Convert - Long term project
'79 Corvette
Orem, Utah
801-229-9140

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:44:31 -0300
Subject: HOT ROD article

Did anyone see the article about the 400+ hp 350 ch*vy in the June 97 HOT
ROD?  I know, this is a ch*vy engine, but the concepts that were unmasked
for this engine could be well applied to an olds engine.
For those of you who can't get the mag, here's the guts of the story:
400sbc block
307/327 crank
Ford 300-six rods
small valve 305 heads
11.00:1 compression, with 87 octane fuel!

The idea behind this engine was to get maximum horsepower with poor fuel,
and they were successful.  The engine had a VERY BROAD torque curve, maxing
435@3800, and max horsepower 412@5700.

The main development theories behind this monster was to get excellent
power with poor grade fuel.  Here's how:  They used the 6.209in Ford rod
with a short stroke crank combined with a large bore for a few reasons.
One was that the large bore is supposed to provide for better airflow into
the CC than a similar small bore engine.  Second is that the long rod
changes the geometry of the assembly, and is supposed to allow higher
compression ratios.  Clearly with 11:1, this holds true.

The most important thing is that this engine only cost $2959, with hardly
any exotic parts at all.

Now, couldn't this be applied to, say, a 455 'F' block with 425 crank and
.1+ overbore?  I don't know the rod length of a 425, but if I remember
right I think the Buick 455 rod is fairly long?  Can anyone back me up on
this?  If the laws that apply to that 352 Ch*vy would hold true to an Olds
engine, then one could make a stump pulling behemoth that would run on
today's poor gasoline.

Just a thought....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442 (with a 455 that is just dying to get a 425 crank and ultra high
compression  :)

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:41:14 -0300
Subject: IVOC meet (again)

(insert your own general greeting)

The feller taking notes on the black 1966 Cutlass tri-power was, in fact, my
new friend, Mr. D. Brown of Chicago. I was not immediately present for some
of the discussion. I was the wierd-looking guy wearing alternately a denim
jacket or (later on) a denim shirt and a Carolina Panthers cap. Chris Ruper
did not arrive until about 2:00 PM.

Mr. Brown was taking notes for assisting himself and others in the future
identification of Oldsmobiles, but I shall allow him to elaborate on that
himself. Hopefully he will give an account of the aforementioned Cutlass,
because I could not come close to offering a description that would do it
justice. There were some other good finds at A&B, but I am not going to tell
anyone what they were because I am hoping to go back there for them myself.
One I will mention is the correct map light for a 1965 Dynamic 88 (correct
because I found it in a 2dr model).

One interesting thing. Next to the tables where the Dealer merchandise was
being sold (new rocket-ugh! It looks more like a thorn (in my side?), there
were several GM Goodwrench brand items for sale. An odd miscellany, really.
On a second pass, I caught sight of "Immersion Parts Cleaner". When I asked,
the fellow said that the shop was changing to another brand and trying to get
rid of their stock. Two spray cans for $2! Never can have enough of these.
Already used up one on an intake manifold.

BTW Daren (and others nearby). Mr. Brown expressed a desire to return to A&B,
perhaps on Memorial Day monday or summat.

Later.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL
OCA Member (ªUnknown)

Ecumenical Grail Researcher?

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:44:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Not a GTO!

  HEH HEH HEH
                           I was just thinking that about my F85 mebbe i
should get a license plate that sez not a 442.  You'd be suprised at how many
people think that the 442 is the only car that was made in the 60's by
OLDSMOBILE.  :-)

              J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:38:01 -0300
Subject: Help   Cam Walking

       Help anybody,I pulled the timing chain cover & seen where
the cam bolt had been walking into the cover, so i proceed  to pull cam
&also noticed that the rear part of the cam had walked backwards .  Is
there soposed to be  some kind of cam bushing behind the cam gear?  Iknow
Mondello  sells a cam button for the bolt.  Oh     &  where can i  get a
new bolt?  You know it is kind-of  wore down.  Thanks a lot for the help.
Luke

------------------------------

From: John and Elizabeth Gene <gene@cybernex.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:54:04 -0300
Subject: Need clutch fan test

.
     My 350 which has run forever, all day and all night at 205'F, changed
today. On the highway the car was running 210'F and on the local roads with
lights it jumped to 220'F. This does not seem extreme but I want to check
it all out before my engine does a Three Mile Island. Is there a simply
test to see if the fan is working properly? It has 150,000 miles on it. One
year on a new radiator. This change happen so quick I think something
broke. Coolant level is good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

John

+================================+
| John and Elizabeth Gene        |
| mailto:gene@cybernex.net       |
| http://www2.cybernex.net/~gene |
+================================+

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:02:09 -0300
Subject: HOT ROD article

I recently spruced up my Olds 425.  I will check out the rod length,
and I know that my engine came with a stock steel crank, which I can
give you some info about when I find the paper I stashed away! :)
Anyways, with the stuff I've done to my 425, I founf that I was
making close to 450 bhp @ 4500 and 525 lb. ft. @3500.  These are
estimates from the class A mechanic that built the motor and helped
me get a good deal on Perf. parts.  I'll be sure to tell the Dyno
results and 1/4 Mile E.T once I get the time to run the car! :)  Let
me know if there is anything I can do to help.

Mat Nadrofsky

1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: "Marvin Friesen" <gowest@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:17:15 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

1 proto type Hurst/Olds made which may still be in existance from sktchy
info I,ve seen on net. Supposed to be on US east coast.
It was black with gold accents.

The one your looking must be a fake. The prototype had rear quarter windows
filled. It was based on Cutlass S model like all 73-75. Very little known
about the proto type.

I take it you are in Manitoba.

Marvin Friesen
Vancouver, BC

1976 Cutlass SOne Owner
1976 Cutlass S 2nd Owner
1983 Delta 88 One owner



- ----------
> From: Clark Rempel <amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
> Date: Monday, May 19, 1997 4:18 PM
>
> Hello, my name is Clark, and I am new to the list.  I'm currently
> considering the purchase of, what I am told, is a '77 Hurst/Olds.  The
> current owner (the second) seems to know very little about the car: a
> medium blue Cutlass with light blue body length "Hurst/Olds - W30"
> stripes.  According to the current owner the car was repainted several
> years ago and the stripes re-applied with an aftermarket stencil kit.  I
> have looked the car over thoroughly (it's in beautiful shape) and the
> stripes appear to be its only distinguishing feature.  Is there any sure
> fire method of authenticating the car as a genuine Hurst?  Serial number?

>  Any special parts to look for?
> Thanks in advance - Clark Rempel   (amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca)
>

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:17:15 -0300
Subject: Re: new papa-again!! (Axle code reply!)

In a message dated 97-05-19 00:10:52 EDT, you write:

>         1. Before I left to pace the horse-pittal, there was much
discussion
>  about the code stamped on the passenger side axle. I have looked and have
>  found a stamp that appears to read CL or GL. Does this jive with 65 axle
> codes?
>

Congratulations! And I second Daren's suggestion; many hands make light body
work.

In future, for requests, please try to be as specific as possible about the
vehicle in question. It makes the answers much easier to formulate.

Case in point; the 1965 Service Manual lists many axle codes, and depending
on which model the car is, the code could begin with an S, R, or Q (in the
order given in the manual).

If your vehicle's axle is from 1965 then the code must be something similar
to GL. I cannot see the code, so I shall list the codes which most resemble
that.

Jetstar I  through Starfire series

QB                 41:15        2.73:1
QD                 41:14        2.93:1
QE  &  QF      40:13        3.08:1
QH                 42:13        3.23:1
QI    &  QJ      41:12        3.42:1

Ninety Eight Series

QL                 41:15         2.73:1

This is more or less as listed in the manual. Where on the axle was the code
located?

Hope this helps.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Eliminated Grenadier Ranks?

------------------------------

From: Nick314@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:22:09 -0300
Subject: Email

      Could someone tell me how to change the Email address from this one to
another?


Nick

70' Cutlass Supreme
70' Cutlass 442

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:38:49 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

>I recently spruced up my Olds 425.  I will check out the rod length,
>and I know that my engine came with a stock steel crank, which I can
>give you some info about when I find the paper I stashed away! :)
>Anyways, with the stuff I've done to my 425, I founf that I was
>making close to 450 bhp @ 4500 and 525 lb. ft. @3500.  These are
>estimates from the class A mechanic that built the motor and helped
>me get a good deal on Perf. parts.  I'll be sure to tell the Dyno
>results and 1/4 Mile E.T once I get the time to run the car! :)  Let
>me know if there is anything I can do to help.
>
>Mat Nadrofsky
>
>1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>
>____
>Mat Nadrofsky
>70 Olds Cutlass

Remember to keep the rest of us 425 owners up to date!

Did you write up a list of modifications?

Details are welcome! (year of block, type of heads, carb, cam, etc)




*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:32:57 -0300
Subject: Re: installing 455

- ----------
>
>
>
>
> Ok, the engine is going in this weekend.  The car is a '71 cutlass
> convertible, and the engine is a freshly rebuilt 455 with a TH400 trans.
> I've got the big block motor mounts and frame mounts(Thanks to all that
let
> me know they exist), Hooker Super comp headers (3202), and I took the
> crossmember off for the trans, and I plan on putting the engine/trans in
as
> one piece.   Any tips or warnings when putting the engine back in.
Someone
> told me to move the brake distribution valve, or I'll lose brakes from
heat
> off the headers.  Is this true?  What are the chances of me moving that
> without breaking any of the lines?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave
>
>

I had to move my brake valve when I installed headers also...I managed to
get all of the factory brake lines to reconnect afterwards except the rear
brake line, this one ended up being to short so I added a 6" section to it,
I mounted my brake valve on top of the frame..I would HIGHLY recommend
doing this before you install the engine!!! Trust me ;-)

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:46:23 -0300
Subject: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

Hey all...yep, I've got some more questions  ;-)

First, about Motor Oil.  The Owner's Guide says to use a certain API
grade: SJ or CJ (I forgot exactly).  Do different grades of motor oil
differ that much?  Will the engine be damaged if a different grade than
is recommended is put in...not...that...I...would do anything like that
8P

Also, what is the difference between "MAX" and "NORM" on the air
comditioner?  I know that on NORM, the compressor cycles on and off...I
can't tell if it cycles on and off on the MAX setting.  Will this cause
premature compressor failure if I drive to work (~14 miles) with the
compressor on MAX?  Also, a related question...what if, hypothetically
speaking ;-), I _DID_ drive to work with the thing on MAX (those t-tops
~really~ let in the heat..I should change my license plates to
'GRENHOS').  Does this mean that my AC is in needing of a charge?

Thanks for any information...

Cheers.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:03:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil discrepancies....

OL>:-) Thanks!  But I still can't figure out what could be taking up the
OL>"space" in the engine for the 5th quart (or so..) that I have always had
OL>to put in to top it off...

The oil filter?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:09:37 -0300
Subject: Re: One for the Cutlass folks

At 09:41 AM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Well, over the weekend at a vintage car race, I was walking into the
>paddock area and a blue Ch*velle ragtop was pulling out.   Instantly,
>thoughts of 442, SX, and Cutlass owners rushed into my head, reiterating
those >words hated by everyone ....  "Nice Ch*velle!".  Seeing the moment, I
>turned to my friend and said (loud enough for the driver and his >girlfriend
to hear) - "Gee, that's a nice looking CUTLASS!"  We >proceeded a few steps
when the driver turned around and shouted >"Sorry, this ain't no Cutlass!" >

Aaah,  I love it!  You forgot one line, though.  After his reply, you should
have turned back and said, "Oh.  Never mind then..."  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 02:48:43 -0300
Subject: welder question

I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the other
day.  I know this topic was discussed earlier but I'm afraid I didn't take
good enough notes.  (I accidentally trashed the messages)

It's a kit that runs about $50 and uses the small cannisters of oxygen and
propane.  It can also use map(sp?) gas.  The package says it's capable of
welding up to 1/2" thick plate steel and cutting through 3/16" thick steel.
It looks like a mini acetyline (I'm a crappy speller, I know) setup only
without pressure gauges.  It has seperate controls to regulate the oxygen
and propane.

Has anyone had experience with this type of setup? Is it worth a darn?  I'm
trying to decide if I'd be better off waiting 'till I have enough money for
a better setup.  I'm going to need to do some sheet metal welding on my
cutlass soon and would like to do it myself but I haven't learned how to
weld yet and I don't have a welding rig either.  I understand that welding
with a torch type welder can warp sheetmetal easily from the heat.  Is it
impossible to weld sheet metal without warping it with someting like this?
Should I just save up for good mig welder?

Thanks in advance for any information.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme



------------------------------

From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:11:42 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

Suzanne Rousseau wrote:
>
> Did anyone see the article about the 400+ hp 350 ch*vy in the June 97 HOT
> ROD?  I know, this is a ch*vy engine, but the concepts that were unmasked
> for this engine could be well applied to an olds engine.
> For those of you who can't get the mag, here's the guts of the story:
> 400sbc block
> 307/327 crank
> Ford 300-six rods
> small valve 305 heads
> 11.00:1 compression, with 87 octane fuel!
>
> The idea behind this engine was to get maximum horsepower with poor fuel,
> and they were successful.  The engine had a VERY BROAD torque curve, maxing
> 435@3800, and max horsepower 412@5700.
>
> The main development theories behind this monster was to get excellent
> power with poor grade fuel.  Here's how:  They used the 6.209in Ford rod
> with a short stroke crank combined with a large bore for a few reasons.
> One was that the large bore is supposed to provide for better airflow into
> the CC than a similar small bore engine.  Second is that the long rod
> changes the geometry of the assembly, and is supposed to allow higher
> compression ratios.  Clearly with 11:1, this holds true.
>
> The most important thing is that this engine only cost $2959, with hardly
> any exotic parts at all.
>
> Now, couldn't this be applied to, say, a 455 'F' block with 425 crank and
> .1+ overbore?  I don't know the rod length of a 425, but if I remember
> right I think the Buick 455 rod is fairly long?  Can anyone back me up on
> this?  If the laws that apply to that 352 Ch*vy would hold true to an Olds
> engine, then one could make a stump pulling behemoth that would run on
> today's poor gasoline.
>
> Just a thought....
>
> Paul Rousseau
> *1967 442 (with a 455 that is just dying to get a 425 crank and ultra high
> compression  :)

_______________________________________________________________________
The only difference between the 425 and the 455 is the crank.  So puting
a 425 crank in a 455 would make it a 425.
455--4.126 bore  4.25 stroke
425--4.126 bore  3.975 stroke
I'm currently building a 383 chevy for my 72 Nova with fully ported Dart
II heads and 10.3:1 comp. and a 282 duration and .525 lift hyd.roller
it  has 544 hp at 6500 and 510 ft lb of torque at 5000.
                 The larger stroke you have on a engine the more torque
                 will have -thats the advantage of a stroker
(olds                       400-455)also will grenade easier.
                 Short stroke engines will be able to acheive this
but                  at a higher rpm.  So if your going for rpms
(6500-8000)
                 build the 425, but if you want low end torque (better
                 for higher gears 3.08-3.55) go for the 455.
I'm helping a friend plan his 455 for his 68 442, check out the roller
cams that were in the mid to late 80's 307's ....one of these in a 455
did wonders on the dyno.  stock C heads with 10.5 comp
529 hp at 5500         558 tq at 4000
damn, pocket port the heads or more and throw a single plane intake on
it and you'll get close to 600 hp at a little higher rpm
My friend has a set of ª5 small blk heads on his 455 and its running
11:1 now , I dont know how acurate that magazine is on running that on
87 octane??
last year we had his car at the track and it ran 13.8 melting the ª7
piston.  we thought the gas was mixed with racing fuel good enough but
it wasn't.. I have to retard the timing on my 68 442 to run it on 93
oct. otherwise it octane knocks like hell. and its only running 10.5:1

Marty
68 442

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From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:27:45 -0300
Subject: Re: PUBS (this isn't a GTO mailing list)

>Thanks again Charley for a great reply!  Now if I can just get you to stop
>bashing Chevys!!  :)

Yeah, well... I guess we can't have it all eh?  ;)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

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From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:27:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

>
>So, to sum it up, use the largest surface-area radiator you can, keep it
>clean inside and out, use a hi-flow thermostat, and a good rad cap, and
>you should be on easy street.  If still overheating, you may want to
>check for head gasket leaks......

Or install a fan & clutch :)

     Sorry, couldn't resist!

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:32:11 -0300
Subject: 71' 442

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I just wanted to put these pictures out there to show my 71' 442. Does
anyone out there have a 71' with these colors?

I'm also looking for any info on 71' 442's. Factory info or service
books. Really anything with information on this year and pictures would
be great. Some of you sent me info already but I deleted my e-mail
ooppss!



I am also looking for a center console for my car. The console is black
and the glove box lid broke off. I don't think you can just replace the
lid can you?
Thanks for your help

   Robert 71' 442
          87' Chevy Fullsize Stepside only 50k miles

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª682
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