To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #606


oldsmobile-digest          Friday, 11 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 606

Re: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Re: lets get technical
Re: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Re: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh
Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Re: Re[2]: Darwin Award/JATO idiot
Fusick web page
Collection of subjects
Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
Re: 1967 442
Re: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions
Quadrajet Question
sport steering wheel
Electrical Question
Re: a lot of blown engines
found parts for G-body Cutlass
Re: Electrical Question
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
dash covers
Re: Darwin Award/JATO idiot (Funny, somewhat long)
Re: 1967 442
Re: a lot of blown engines
Re: found parts for G-body Cutlass
Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
nightmare in suspension mod land
Re: Quadrajet Question
Re: Some dumb questions (Non Olds)
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: lets get technical
Re: dash covers
Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
Re: Some dumb questions (Non Olds)
Re: dash covers
Carburator/Choke problem
Re: a lot of blown engines
Re: sport steering wheel
Non Olds humor
Re: Carburator/Choke problem
WWII Jeeps
Fw: New Car
1971 -72 Backup Lamp Lens For Sale (4/11)
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: Electrical Question
Brake/knuckle info
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:12:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

Snips and more snips


>If You put ten wires in parallel that means that You have made ten ways for=
 the
>electrons to go. That means in turn that the electron speed inside the
wires has
>dropped to tenth of the original speed. Not so much power -> no burning.

Except for one interesting point that is contained in the paragraph above, I
agree.  The Point: I thought that the electron speed was the speed-of-light,
and that when they encountered a resistance in their circuit that some would
be stopped by the resistance, but that those that were allowed to continue
(less numbers) would still be traveling at the speed-of-light. =20

>Hope this helped.
>
>--=20
>**********************************************
>* Esko Ilola                                 *
>* Email esko.ilola@tele.fi                   *
>* X400  G=3Desko S=3Dilola O=3Dtele A=3Dmailnet C=3Dfi *
>* Tel.  +358 2040 3439                       *
>*       +358 4055 75977                      *
>*       +358 9537 430                        *
>* Mail  Ukonkivenpolku 7B5                   *
>*       01610 VANTAA                         *
>*       FINLAND                              *
>**********************************************
>* Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1964               *
>*            Holiday Sports Sedan (4D HT)    *
>**********************************************
>
>
>
Esko,

Very well done.  Just for fun, when do we get to the part where the
electrons only flow at the surface of the conductor, and that (for the same
weight, per unit length) a piece of pipe will carry more 'load' than a wire?

The Wiz

P.S. I passed your friends name to the DB.  I think that they are at about
the same level in their educations, as the DB is finalizing here Doctorial
paperwork as I write this.  She teaches the undergraduates at the same
University she is attending, which I think is a bit of scolastic(sp)
inbreeding, which is a condition that she does not care to agree with.  I
think she likes her job.

P.P.S. It was 78=BA F here yesterday, and this morning we had 6" of snow.
(39=BAC & 15cm)  Wierd weather.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:25:59 -0300
Subject: Re: lets get technical

At 09:14 AM 4/10/97 -0300, you wrote:
>OL>>Also since these are not petroleum based, gas and other
>OL>>contaminants won't break down the oil.  Theoretically if you could
>OL>>filter the oil well enough of the suspended contaminants you could use
>OL>>it a long time.  (you should still change it every 3000 miles to get rid
>OL>>of these contaminants - my opinon as well as most premium car
>OL>>manufacturers).  If you have a new car or a rebuilt engine I would use
>OL>>synthetic.  If you got say over 30,000 miles and don't plan to keep the
>OL>>car forever changing oil every 3000 miles with a good grade of oil is
>OL>>probably fine.   Remember - a regular oil that starts out as a 5/30
>OL>>slowly turns into a single weight over time as contaminants break it
>OL>>down.  This doesn't happen with synthetic!
>OL>>
>
>OL>Question: When did they stop making synthetic motor oil out of petroleum?
>
>OL>The Wiz Wonders
>
>True synthetic oils I thought were always petroleum free.
>Just the synthetic blends use petroleum. Like Duro-blend?
>
>
>Daren
>
>daren@qconline.com
>

I believe that the 'synthetic' motor oils started life as 'crude oil' and
that they molecule was reformulated to create a 'synthetic molecule.'  I do
not believe that it is a true synthetic in the sense that it was an
extension of a silicon based lubricant for example; which would be a true
synthetic.

I also believe that you are better off buying $3. a gallon "Shell Rotella
'T'" oil (my favorite oil, buy any major refiners equivalent as it is
equivalent) and change your oil at 1000 mile intervals, than to buy $20. a
gallon synthetic and change it at 6000 mile intervals, or even 3000 mile
intervals.  This is a more bang for the buck reply; as all major refiners
high grade motor oils are exceptionally good lubricants too.

I believe that the synthetics are a good product, but that they have certain
problems that the 'ordinary' oils do not, and are so expensive that copious
use of ordinary oil is a superior therapy for a good engine, ie more oil
changes of the less expensive oil.

The Wiz

P.S. I have had exceptional good luck with the blue synthetic grease, and in
as much as grease is a add on, and not a change out like oil, I would get on
the synthetics bandwagon, and recommend it heartly.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:35:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

Snip-snip-snip-snip-snip-snip-snip

>Hopefully that is a down and dirty lesson on conductors.
>
>I have to disagree about electrons having mass though.  There is no mass
>to an electron.  Hard to believe, but i=F4's true.
>
>My 2 cents
>Mike Rothe
>

Mike,

I'm sorry but here I go again.  If an electron ain't got no mass, what does
it have?

The Wiz: is he really is Out of his league here, or does the DB need an=
 e-mail?

P.S. Are you therefore saying that a proton and a neutron have the SAME=
 mass?

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:38:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

At 11:22 AM 4/10/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 05:49 AM 4/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Dear Mike and Wiz,
>>
>>You have managed to create a long thread out of a simple subject. Cool :)
>>
>>I think that many of us are wondering, why does the wire burn ?
>[ S N I P ! ]
>>dropped to tenth of the original speed. Not so much power -> no burning.
>>
>>Hope this helped.
>
>Esko,
>
>Thanks once again for an enlightening (and of course humorous) explanation.
>This gets saved in the folder of truly excellent explanations.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>
Bob,

I looks like it ain't dead yet.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:55:41 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh

At 04:18 PM 4/10/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Just to summarize my comments:
>
>1) The post which stated increasing voltage requires an increase in wire
>size was incorrect.  An increase in CURRENT, regardless of cause, may
>require an increase in wire size.
>
>2) Wiz questioned the use of the term "Load".  This is more of a street
>term than a precise electrical term.  You could say "Bob, we have a 20
>amp load" or "Jean, is that an 8 ohm load?"  Since it could refer to
>either resistance/impedance or current flow, those terms would be more
>proper to use.
>
>3) I'm suprised that on one jumped on Esko's remarks concerning the speed
>of electrons.
>
>Now before we get into ELI the ICEman or coulombs per fortnight,
>I'm outta here...
>
>    66 Toro
>The /\   /\ and Mike
>
>--
>Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
>
>
Mike,

The only engineering courses I took in college where 'Strength of Materials'
and 'Metals and Metalurgy' both at my fathers insistance.  He was a
mechnical engineer.  And strangely those two courses have more pratical use
than anything else I studied, save for mathmatics thru linear algebra; the
rest was of little practical value. Maybe 'Art and Music Appreciation' too,
but I already prefered long hair music, and French Impressionists, so it was
more of a me too course.  My electrical knowledge, or lack of it rather,
comes from hands on experience.  You have no idea of what I went thru the
first time I had to change out a 20hp electric motor that powered a 4" pump.
It was 460vac 3phase.  I never heard of '3 phase' it until I was faced with
it.  And here it is 20 years later and that pump is still running.

Also, when I came upon Eskos comments on speed of electrons I did make
mention of what I considered to be that remarks shortcomings.

Also the mass of an electron would have had the DB cringing.

Dr. E. showed that photons have mass, so why not an electron.

I know I've got a lot to learn.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:01:29 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

>didn't say running a "+" and "-" was another option.  There is a lot
>more to wiring than you mentioned.  Some of the problems I see are:
>    1.  Fusible links
>    2.  Type of wire being used, (cheap, can not handle much current.
>The gauge of the wire by all means
>         NOT the way to judge how much current it can handle.  The type
>of conductor and the insulation play
>         a major part as well!)
>    3.  The routing of wire without fuses closer to the battery or
>source
>    4.  Using male connectors on the "hot" side of the connector,
>(sensor side should be male)
>    5. ect...
>
>>
>>
>> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>
You guys have never looked into the wiring in a Rolls Royce have you?  The
power windows for example, have 8 wires.  Two to each window.  Yes, each has
a separate ground, I suppose they consider the chassis to be the electrical
netural!  And they use wire of sufficient size too.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:06:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Darwin Award/JATO idiot

At 03:18 PM 4/10/97 -0300, you wrote:
>         =20
>>   Here's the 1997 winner:  Larry Waters of Los Angeles.
>> Larry is one of the few to win the award and still be alive.=20
>[...]
>>He decided to fly.  He went to the
>>local Army-Navy surplus store and purchased 45
>> weather balloons and several tanks of helium.  The weather  balloons,=20
>>when fully inflated, measured more than four feet
>> across.  Back home, Larry securely strapped the balloons to his sturdy=20
>>lawn chair.
>         =20
>This matches a listing which _is_ described as True, but listed as=20
>happening on July 2, 1982, when he made it to 16,000 feet. No name=20
>given. Copycat, perhaps?
>         =20
>          I don't know if Larry Waters is the same guy, but this did=20
>          actually happen in 1982.  I was living in LA at the time and=20
>          the story made the front page of the LA Times (complete with=20
>          photo).  The guy lived in Long Beach and apparently got into=20
>          the approach path of LB Airport (which is right next to=20
>          Veterans Stadium, which is where the LB Swap Meet is held,=20
>          where one can often find enough Olds parts to warrant this=20
>          gratuitous Olds content in an otherwise non-Olds posting)
>         =20
>          Joe Padavano
>          jpada@orbital.com
>         =20
>          66 442
>          68 W-30
>          69 H/O
>          70 W-30
>         =20
>
>
>
The F.A.A. made me give up flying when I became a Insulin dependent diabetic
(and it looks like they are studying changing this rule).  But at that time,
an airports control space was only up to 2500 ft agl, and good ole Larry, at
11,000 or 16,000' was well above it, and in as much as his flying machine
was a chair and some baloons, I think he would have qualified as an
ultra-light, so he nor the aircraft needed licensing.  Why would they have
arrested him?

The Wiz

P.S. This post is only worth 2 mills, ie 2=A2 at a discount.

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:13:33 -0300
Subject: Fusick web page

Just wondering if everyone knew Fusick had a web page.
www.oldntime.com
then click on Fusick....or you could click on one of the other companies.
If this is already know, I apologize for wasting bandwidth.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute,IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:35:56 -0300
Subject: Collection of subjects

1969 Olds 98 Radio, AM/FM, nice old-looking model, chrome colour,aging
away in my junkyard, is it worth anything to anybody here (not looking
for great amounts of $)?

Electron -> I believe to have a very small mass, exponentially smaller
than proton/neutron.  Also, electrity travels at approx speed of light
(different lights travel at different speeds, not?), but, and I ask,
WHO_CARES!

Locking torques for Turbo 400's: Do replacement locking torques for old
trannies exist?  at what cost?

Coming Soon:
They're not beutifal or rare, but their MINE!
and soon they'll be ONLINE!

coming soon, my virtual junkyard
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/olds.html


EA~

------------------------------

From: Karl Davlin <kdavlin@bigfoot.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:07:02 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

C.R.F. wrote:

> >didn't say running a "+" and "-" was another option.  There is a
> lot
> >more to wiring than you mentioned.  Some of the problems I see are:
>
> >    1.  Fusible links
> >    2.  Type of wire being used, (cheap, can not handle much
> current.
> >The gauge of the wire by all means
> >         NOT the way to judge how much current it can handle.  The
> type
> >of conductor and the insulation play
> >         a major part as well!)
> >    3.  The routing of wire without fuses closer to the battery or
> >source
> >    4.  Using male connectors on the "hot" side of the connector,
> >(sensor side should be male)
> >    5. ect...
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> >> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> >
> >
> You guys have never looked into the wiring in a Rolls Royce have
> you?  The
> power windows for example, have 8 wires.  Two to each window.  Yes,
> each has
> a separate ground, I suppose they consider the chassis to be the
> electrical
> netural!  And they use wire of sufficient size too.
>
> The Wiz

 I don't know, but I jump started a $200,000 Rolls with my $200 Datsun
210 once.  What a Kodak moment!!!!

I do the electrical design on a $3,000,000.00 CVD machine, what do I
know?

                                Karl

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 12:19:48 -0300
Subject: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)

     This is rather non-Olds, so please reply by e-mail so as not to
     clutter the list more than I already am.

     My girlfriend recently inherited an old WW-II era army jeep.  Seems
     like it's in pretty good shape too.  They said it ran when it was last
     turned off 10 years ago.  Can anyone here point me toward any
     resources where I might learn about this critter some more?  I'd like
     to find out as much as I can about it before attempting to bring it
     back to life.  Perhaps a web site, or a mailing list would be nice.  I
     think this thing might make a good parts chaser for the Olds :-)

     Thanks!

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:42:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 1967 442

Brendon,
       I agree with your passion for '67s, I have 2 hardtops, and as
soon as I sell one I'm buying a convert. I personally like them w/o
vinyl tops, but that just mho.
      The hoods will interchange, but only the 4-4-2 had louvers.
        Doug

------------------------------

From: "M. Taylor" <chef@citynet.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:53:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass convertible questions

Robb

I recently bought a 1969 Cutlass Conv, do you know how many were made that
year???

Taylor
69 conv
Life is like a box of chocolates...........

------------------------------

From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:24:24 -0300
Subject: Quadrajet Question

I've taken apart my Qjet so may times in the 14 years I've owned my '70
Cutlass that I've memorized to part number (7040250).  Seems I've never gotten
it just perfect but always "good enough".  My question is about the operation
of the main metering rods.  The rods are suspended in the jet holes with a
yoke which sits in what appears to be some sort of a piston/cylinder
arangement with a spring underneath it to preload the yoke in the retracted
(rich?) position.  I would guess that the vacuum from under the carb would be
expected to pull down on the piston against the spring, thus lowering the
metering rods into the jets, thus leaning out the mixture until some
equilibrium ocurrs at the optimal mixture.

Is this correct?  If so it seems as though this piston is pretty loose in the
cylinder and that there would be leakage (blowby?) which prevents the leaning
out from occuring.  I've opened up a couple of different Qjets and they all
seem to be rather loose in this area.  Is there a repair procedure for this?
I've never seen any mention of this anywhere.

hans

------------------------------

From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:30:29 -0300
Subject: sport steering wheel

I need the horn button for the 4 spoke sport wheel.
            Doug

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:44:46 -0300
Subject: Electrical Question

Not to extend the thread on electrons and current any further, god
forbid, ;-) but I have a quick question:

The discussion today about how automotive electrical systems are designed
reminded me that I've never seen a source for the connectors typically
used on cars. I don't even know what they're called but you know the kind
I mean: the positive connecting male/female pairings you see under the
dash, etc., that are typically made of black plastic over metal. Whenever
I go to a junque yarde I usually snip off a few of each but then I have to
splice them together later on of course. Does anyone know the right name
for these and if they can be bought in the aftermarket? I'm sure they can
but I've never seen them.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:36:26 -0300
Subject: Re: a lot of blown engines

>
> So on a normal (ex:71 w30 455)rebuild which is better ,a stock pump or a
> high volume pump?
> Frank

That depends on your type of driving. For day to day and weekend cruises
that never exceed highway speeds a stock oil pump is perfect. If you
plan on running the engine at high RPMs for extended length of time then
you will need oil restricters and a higher volume pump. Remember, high
RPMs usually do not kill engines, lack of oil does.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:14:18 -0300
Subject: found parts for G-body Cutlass

I found an '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic in a salvage yard yesterday that
has some potentially usefull stuff.  I don't really need any of it so if
someone wants me get anything for them please let me know.

Dark blue sport steering wheel
dark blue remote right sport mirror
Rallye Pac with shift indicator for overdrive
also found another Rallye Pac in different Cutlass
T-Tops, both seemed in good shape
Limited slip diff with 2.56 gears (I might take this but not sure yet)
Sail panel script, CutlassSupremeClassic
Owners manuals

This yard is just outside Providence, RI.

Contact me at wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 00:16:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Not to extend the thread on electrons and current any further, god
> forbid, ;-) but I have a quick question:

HA!  Too late!

> Does anyone know the right name for these and if they can be bought in
> the aftermarket?

I believe they refered to as softshell connectors probably made by AMP
(Harrisburg, PA).  Check http://www.digikey.com/ as a source.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:04:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

I guess the worst "loss" would be something I should have bought but
didn't.  (It's not Olds, but I've never had a worst loss/best buy Olds
scenario.  Yet.)
About seven years ago a guy in Tucson was selling a Chevy L-78 396(the
one that was originally rated 425hp in the '65 Vette), with
the TH400, for 800 dollars, obo.  The motor was out
of a 69 Nova SS, had 38,000 miles on it(mostly highway, since it was a
rural-to-city commuter car), was run on natural gas, and was out of his
Grandma's car!  The way I saw it, it was a barely-broken-in very hi-perf
motor that pretty much had not been raced or abused.  Of course, I had no
way to verify that last part.  (Regardless the Little Old Lady From
Pasadena song, I've never seen a Grandma draggin' up and down the road!)
Still, I passed it up, and I still kick myself from time to time.

One thing I was wondering about...Would natural gas cause more, or less,
wear on the motor than gasoline?  Or would it make much difference?
I didn't really consider that at the time.

    Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:03:20 -0300
Subject: dash covers

Where is a good place to get the ABS hard plastic style dash cover? The
$500 that just dashes wants to redo my dash just isn't in the budget
right now..

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:25:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Darwin Award/JATO idiot (Funny, somewhat long)

FWIW:
I heard that story recently, but I was told that the guy intended to
float over to his girlfriend's house, to impress her.  I heard
that he was succesful, and landed in her back yard, unharmed.


   Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:32:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 1967 442

I agree about the vinyl tops.  They just don't fit on a performance-type
car.

     Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: "Frank Gonzalez" <frank@tridentsound.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:35:44 -0300
Subject: Re: a lot of blown engines

- ----------
> From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: a lot of blown engines
> Date: Thursday, April 10, 1997 6:36 PM
>
> >
> > So on a normal (ex:71 w30 455)rebuild which is better ,a stock pump or
a
> > high volume pump?
> > Frank
>
> That depends on your type of driving. For day to day and weekend cruises
> that never exceed highway speeds a stock oil pump is perfect. If you
> plan on running the engine at high RPMs for extended length of time then
> you will need oil restricters and a higher volume pump. Remember, high
> RPMs usually do not kill engines, lack of oil does.
>
> Danny


How come Olds made the oil system like that  if you cant even race it every
once in a while?
I imagine people drove a lot faster back then than now.
Frank.


------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:51:33 -0300
Subject: Re: found parts for G-body Cutlass

if the dark blue sport steering wheel will fit on a '92 Ciera, and i THINK
the interchange is correct, I would be interested.  I have a friend that has
been looking for a dark blue sport wheel for a year.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:44:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)

At 11:19 AM 4/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>     This is rather non-Olds, so please reply by e-mail so as not to
>     clutter the list more than I already am.
>
>     My girlfriend recently inherited an old WW-II era army jeep.  Seems
>     like it's in pretty good shape too.  They said it ran when it was last
>     turned off 10 years ago.  Can anyone here point me toward any
>     resources where I might learn about this critter some more?  I'd like

Well, to make this Olds-related, the *Olds* FAQ has a section on starting a
car that has been sitting for a while, that is applicable to any car. Also,
the My Classic Car page has a tech tip on the procedures to go through for
starting a car that has been sitting for a while. I've done it on cars that
have been sitting for 7 and 10 years (my two latest Toros), and they've
started up after the procedure.

One tip not in either article: double-check your point gap in the
distributor. Both Toros would crank but not start, until I got the point gap
(the same adjustment as the dwell, but not as accurate) in the ballpark.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:55:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

At 08:04 PM 4/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I guess the worst "loss" would be something I should have bought but
...
>one that was originally rated 425hp in the '65 Vette), with
>the TH400, for 800 dollars, obo.  The motor was out
>of a 69 Nova SS, had 38,000 miles on it(mostly highway, since it was a
>rural-to-city commuter car), was run on natural gas, and was out of his
>Grandma's car!... I've never seen a Grandma draggin' up and down the road!)
>Still, I passed it up, and I still kick myself from time to time.
>
>One thing I was wondering about...Would natural gas cause more, or less,
>wear on the motor than gasoline?  Or would it make much difference?
>I didn't really consider that at the time.

Well, apart from the fact that his story sounds like a dumptruck full of
fertilizer ("Yeah, granny got the Holley-carb equipped 396 'cause she said
her old Hemi GTX wouldn't turn to 7500rpm that easily any more..."), the
natural gas-powered engine would be substantially cleaner than a gasoline
powered one. Of course, the induction system would have to be completely
customized with a fuel-mixer (no, can't use that 780cfm Holley on there...).
Was it supposed to be LNG or CNG?

Finally, what would you have to put it in?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:56:44 -0300
Subject: nightmare in suspension mod land

Man! Do I have a headache! Talk about a real goosechase! The companys that
have the goods I need are near impossible to deal with! The rectals that
bought H-O Racing are not ready to sell that product line. I learned this
after four or five calls a fax w/ all needed p/n's and a conversation w/the
store mgr. G.W. Advancd Suspension has had it together. I think a little
pricey for my blood. The kit I lust for is $695.00 It includes:

                                        2-tubular upper cont arm
                                        2-upper ball jnts
                                        2-lower  "    "
                                        4-del-a-lum upper bushings
                                        2-outer tie rods
                                        2-upper control arm shafts
                                        4-del-a-lum lower control arm bushings
                                        4-reinforcement plates
                                        assorted hdwr
                                        instructions

Ron Marocco, Technician, is very helpful and willing to answer questions.
The new PHª is 909-349-2090. A friend and fellow 442 owner(67)of mine has
expressed an interest in the Scott Mullen conversion. We both would like a
little more detailed info if it isn't proprietery. I have detailed info on
the G.W. kits for those who want it.



James L. Smith
floydfan@wiltel.net

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:00:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Quadrajet Question

At 12:24 PM 4/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I've taken apart my Qjet so may times in the 14 years I've owned my '70
Cutlass [snip] >main metering rods.  The rods are suspended in the jet holes
with a yoke which >sits in what appears to be some sort of a piston/cylinder
arangement with a >spring underneath it to preload the yoke in the retracted
(rich?) position.  I [snip] >Is this correct?  If so it seems as though this
piston is pretty loose in the >cylinder and that there would be leakage
(blowby?) which prevents the leaning >out from occuring.  I've opened up a
couple of different Qjets and they all seem >to be rather loose in this area.
Is there a repair procedure for this? I've >never seen any mention of this
anywhere.

That's the power system (what the power valve does on a Holley), which
richens the system at low-vacuum (WOT) conditions, but leans it out under
part-throttle, high-vacuum conditions for better mileage. The spring is
pretty loose, so you can push that plunger down without too much difficulty.
You do want that plastic ring near the top of it to seat in the top of the
bore; you can "stake" it a little bit with a screwdriver, but it really
doesn't hold the whole thing in place (the gasket and top plate do most of
the work). You can change this spring to modify the operation of the power
system, going to a weaker or stiffer spring to change when the power system
comes in.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:18:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Some dumb questions (Non Olds)

At 12:37 AM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>>bandwidth is a *terrible* thing to waste...]
>>
>
>Hey everyone --
>
>I am as about computer stupid as anyone can get.  What is bandwitdh?  Also
>some posts get put on my desktop after I download my mail.  How come?
>
>I have built tons of motors and cars and am quite vested in Olds knowledge.
>As for these computers.....I need help!
>
>Tony
>
>70 442 W-30
>70 Toro GT W-34
>65 Jetstar 88 w/4-spd
>85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
>92 Seville STS
>
>Let Us not start up on bandwidth! We are currently witnessing Ohms Law six
ways from Sunday!!! Who says that? I says that and a whole H*LL of a lot of
other folks here on the Oldsmobile and Billy show!
>
>

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:48:51 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $75.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $20.00
66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
$20.00 each
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $25.00
68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
68-69 Left Quarter Panel (whole thing to roof, no rust w/inner wheelwell)
$325.00
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue   $10.00
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00

70 Cutlass/442
70-71 Short Wheelwell Moldings  $100.00 set of 4
70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $40.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
(Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00

72 Cutlass/442
New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  (around radio area)  $20.00
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
Boxed Lower Control Arms  $60.00 pr
Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00 ea
(5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set

**** New stuff to list****
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
70-72 Long Wheel lip moldings  $120.00 set of (4)
70 72 Chrome Hood pins (OAI) nice  $30.00 pr.
14x6 SSI Wheels (All chrome) non disc brakes  $40.00 ea
70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $25.00 ea
69 Headlight doors (more sets)  $40.00 pr
69 442 Grilles (very good)  $180.00 pr
RH 70-72 Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire
65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  Let us know if your interested.

Jim Chermack
'70 SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:52:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

At 09:55 PM 4/10/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 08:04 PM 4/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>I guess the worst "loss" would be something I should have bought but
>...
>>one that was originally rated 425hp in the '65 Vette), with
>>the TH400, for 800 dollars, obo.  The motor was out
>>of a 69 Nova SS, had 38,000 miles on it(mostly highway, since it was a
>>rural-to-city commuter car), was run on natural gas, and was out of his
>>Grandma's car!... I've never seen a Grandma draggin' up and down the road!)
>>Still, I passed it up, and I still kick myself from time to time.
>>
>>One thing I was wondering about...Would natural gas cause more, or less,
>>wear on the motor than gasoline?  Or would it make much difference?
>>I didn't really consider that at the time.
>
>Well, apart from the fact that his story sounds like a dumptruck full of
>fertilizer ("Yeah, granny got the Holley-carb equipped 396 'cause she said
>her old Hemi GTX wouldn't turn to 7500rpm that easily any more..."), the
>natural gas-powered engine would be substantially cleaner than a gasoline
>powered one. Of course, the induction system would have to be completely
>customized with a fuel-mixer (no, can't use that 780cfm Holley on there...).
>Was it supposed to be LNG or CNG?
>
>Finally, what would you have to put it in?
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>Hey Doc, What did you minor in all those years? You have got to be the most
rounded Theologian I have read. You go BOY!!
>

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:45:28 -0300
Subject: Re: lets get technical

> I believe that the 'synthetic' motor oils started life as 'crude oil' and
> that they molecule was reformulated to create a 'synthetic molecule.'  I do
> not believe that it is a true synthetic in the sense that it was an
> extension of a silicon based lubricant for example; which would be a true
> synthetic.

Hey Wiz, after some investigating, I'd have to disagree with this.
Synthetics are not petroleum based.  Apparently, the general idea is that
esters are produced from the reaction of carboxylic acids and alcohols.
The desired properties are engineered into the molecules, so that very
little, if any (Mobil 1), viscosity improvers are necessary.  Regular
crude based oil is comprised of a mixture of hydrocarbons.  Synthetics are
homogeneous in nature, making them chemically stable and much less prone
to evaporate.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 00:07:46 -0300
Subject: Re: dash covers

Steven,
Why don't you restore your own dash? I don't know if you'd be happy with a
cover.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 00:04:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)

Tom,
I recently acquired a '43 Ford GPA (JEEP). I also purchased two books on these
 war jeeps titled "All-American Wonder", volumes 1 and 2. They were written
by Ray Cowdery. If you're thinking about restoring one you have to have these
 books. I plan to use it for pulling my Oldsmobiles around the yard, and will
probably paint it 1970 twi-light blue. (This is the Oldsmobile related part).

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 01:03:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Some dumb questions (Non Olds)

>> Also some posts get put on my desktop after I download my mail.  How
>> come?
>
>You got a leak in the bottom of your monitor?   ;)
>


Similar to the light leaks prominent in certain year Toros.  Dangerous
stuff!  Make sure you wipe it up right away, and for God's sake, use rubber
gloves!  :)

I'm guessing we must be talking about the Windoze 95 desktop?  Do you have a
cat that likes to play with the mouse?  <:o===--  Maybe he's doing the
drag'n'drop thing without your knowledge?  What kind of mail reader do you
have?


>BEcause you have your mail program installed to the desktop...ie
>c:\windows\desktop
>
>if you using eudora you probably getting new files like in.toc and
>others right?
>

Hey, now that sounds like a logical solution.  Go to the "options" menu
(under special or tools, depending on which EuDorka version you have) or
"configuration" possibly if you're using another reader.  Look for an
attachment directory or something similar.  Just point it to a different
location, and you'd probably cure the problem.

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Shang <Shang@dfwmm.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:46:06 -0300
Subject: Re: dash covers

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
>
> Steven,
> Why don't you restore your own dash? I don't know if you'd be happy with a
> cover.
>
> Art Fuller
> mefco@sprynet.com


The only means of restoring the dash I know of is through Just dashes in
California. They want $500 to do it, and I just don't have it right now.
I could get it done later, but I wanted to have it done while I had the
dash off, it wasn't fun pulling it apart, and I don't really want to do
it again.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: "IT" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 01:14:11 -0300
Subject: Carburator/Choke problem

For about 6 months now I have a problem in my 81 Delta 88 307.  The problem
is when the car is warm (not hot) it is hard to start.  When cold, the car
just needs a touch to light and the choke comes right on.  Right after I
shut it off, it also just needs a touch.  However, after 5 min to about 2
hours after I shut it off (depending on outside temp, if cold better and if
warm worse) the key must be held for about 3 seconds or longer befoure the
car starts.  When it starts, it feels like it will stall, motor shakes and
RPMs dance around 300-400.  (should go right up to 1100 in park by the
underhood sitcker)  I don't have to start it twice, it will start the fist
time but after 3 seconds or so.  I just replaced the starter but no
difference.  I am thinking perhaps a bad choke setting or a carb problem.
Pressing the pedal all the way to the floor and then starting makes no real
difference.  It starts maybe just a hair faster and when I let go of the
pedal, the RPM things happends, just not as bad.  If you had a similar
experience, any suggestion would be more then welcome.

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 00:12:38 -0300
Subject: Re: a lot of blown engines

> How come Olds made the oil system like that  if you cant even race it every
> once in a while?
> I imagine people drove a lot faster back then than now.
> Frank.
>
The oiling system is good for what these cars are designed for. Driving
down the expressway at 55-90 mph and the occasional 1/4 mile blast. It's
really only when you get around 4500-5500 RPMs for an extended time that
the problems show up. The oil is pumped very effeciently to the top.
However, the return trip takes longer and will quickly run the pan dry.
I have noticed lifter noise after shutting down a s*l**n 5. slow. Talk
about making tents!

Danny

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 01:44:42 -0300
Subject: Re: sport steering wheel

doug thompson wrote:
>
> I need the horn button for the 4 spoke sport wheel.
>             Doug


Speaking of horn buttons for sport wheels, any one out there have one
for a 69 442/Hurst?  I don't care about the color or condition, except
that it must have all three metal attaching tangs in place.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 02:04:33 -0300
Subject: Non Olds humor

     Just ran across this on the net.  Thought it might hit home for some of
us:)


                         Ten Commandments For The Car Collector

 Written by Donald Peterson for the Feb. 1979 issue of Car Collector Magazine.


     1)Thou shalt not read thy Hemmings on company time, lest thy employer
     make it impossible to continue thy car payments.
     2)Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's car nor his garage, nor his
battery charger.
     3)Thou shalt not store thy car out-of-doors except for the wife's Toyota.
     4)Thou shalt not deceive thy wife into thinking that thee is taking her
for
     a romantic Sunday drive when indeed thou art going out to look at
another car.
     5)Thou shalt not love thy cars more than thy wife and children.
     6)Thou shalt not despise thy neighbor's Edsel, nor his DeSoto,
     nor even his '47 Plymouth.
     7)Thou shalt not tell thy spouse the entire cost of thy latest
restoration,
     at least not all at the same time.
     8)Thou shalt not promise thy wife a new addition fo the house and then
use it to store cars.
     9)Thou shalt not allow thy sons and daughters to get married during the
car show season.
     10)Thou shalt not buy thy wife a floor jack for Christmas.


                            ----------------

                     Used Car Classifieds Translations

MUST SELL
     before it blows up.
RUNS FINE
     I was going to say "runs excellent" but I had a last minute attack of
conscience.
NEEDS SOME BODY WORK
     was side-swiped by a Winnebago.
WELL-MAINTAINED
     I changed the oil occasionally.
LOOKS LIKE NEW
     just don't try to drive it anywhere.
ALL ORIGINAL
     I never had anything fixed, adjusted, or replaced.
LOADED WITH OPTIONS
     each one more troublesome than the next.
NEVER SMOKED IN
     unfortunately, that's the best thing I can say about it.
PROJECT CAR
     doesn't run.
LOTS OF POTENTIAL
     doesn't run.
NEEDS MINOR REPAIR
     doesn't run.

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 02:23:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Carburator/Choke problem

Sounds like a flooding problem since holding the pedal down starts it
quicker although not much.  Float level could be too high  and when the
engine is hot the gas boils over into the intake causing too rich
flooding condition.   Do you smell gas? Take off the air cleaner after
the car has sat hot and look into the carb - carefully open choke and
throttle plate and look for wet gas that may have dripped into the
intake.  Its a starting point anyway and won't take you more than five
minutes.  Also re-adjust the choke setting to factory specs.  Many carbs
are rebuilt and put on cars (or bought re-built) and never adjusted to
factory specs.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 03:10:35 -0300
Subject: WWII Jeeps

The Jeep,

There were many types of WWII jeeps, a major list follows:

1. The Bantam, the originator of the idea

2. The Willys, who took Bantams idea and ran with it

3. The Ford, the also ran that attempted to get the whole ball of wax by
buying the entire production of front axels, so that the others could not
meet production.  Of course the others cried fowl, or is it foul, and
Ordnance stepped in a passed the front axels around.  Some one was slippery
than Henry.

And then they built:

1. The Bantam (American Bantam prototype) four wheel drive two wheel steer

2a. The MA (Willys prototype) four wheel drive two wheel steer

2b. The MA (Willys prototype) four wheel drive four wheel steer

2c. The MB the standardized WWII jeep

2d. The TUG (Willys prototype) a six by six version intended to be an
artillery prime mover

3a. The GP (Ford prototype) four wheel drive two wheel steer

3b. The GP (Ford prototype) four wheel drive four wheel steer

3c. The GPW Ford production of the standardized jeep

3d. The GPA Ford production of the standardized amphibious jeep (called the
Seep)

So all in all you have acquired one of 9 possibilities.  The only 'common'
vehicles on the entire list are 2c and 3c, the standardized jeep.  The
prototypes were often sent to Russia as lend lease.

There are several books on the subject, as well as the original military
manuals.

Good luck, and do use it to pull start your Oldsmobile on very cold days.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Steve Reed" <ssreed@ibm.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 05:54:18 -0300
Subject: Fw: New Car

- ----------
> From: John and Robin Whitcore <retrotek@phoenixat.com>
> To: oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: New Car
> Date: Thursday, April 10, 1997 4:07 PM
>
> Hi guys!
>
> Well we were lucky enough to find another car, a mathching ª's 1971
> Cutlass S Holiday Coupe, stock w/ original paint for a whopping $450.
> All the pieces are there, SS2's, moldings, bumpers, 350/2V etc. It was
> the proverbial Little Ole Lady from Pasedena's car.
>
> Anyway, we just stripped it over the weekend and our friend is going to
> take to do the paint and body this coming weekend. The engine is a
> basket case (major oil burning/blowby) so we're going to pull it and the
> tranny over at his shop and bring them back home to rebuild over the
> next couple of months while he works on the body. This is our first
> engine rebuild so we've been reading as much as we can (Engine
> rebuilders handbook by HPBooks is excellent).
>
> What we want to do is build the car for primarily street use (daily
> driver) and most importantly to run on pump gas. So we don't want ultra
> high compression but we do want to be able to smoke the tires once in a
> while. What would you suggest putting into it (pistons (we'll probably
> have to bore it .30), cam, etc.). I know we could ask 10 different
> people and get 10 different answers but we respect your opinions over
> most peoples. Also, who is a good supplier of rebuild kits (price and
> quality).
>
> thanks in advance for you help...j&r

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 08:07:36 -0300
Subject: 1971 -72 Backup Lamp Lens For Sale (4/11)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

Backup Lamp Lens for 1971-72 5400 series (88), 6400 series ('71 88
Custom, '72 88 Royal), and 6600 series ('71 88 Royal).  Part number
5963467.  NOS in the box.  Yes, I know that your car needs two of these,
but I only have one to sell.  $12.00, including shipping to any address
in the United States. (4/11/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item or it you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: scotthensley@juno.com (Scott W Hensley)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 11:06:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

On Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:04:24 -0300 James William Townsend

>One thing I was wondering about...Would natural gas cause more, or
>less,
>wear on the motor than gasoline?  Or would it make much difference?
>I didn't really consider that at the time.
>
>    Jim Townsend
>
>
>
 Its LP gas and it causes less wear as it is a cleaner fuel. Less acids
are formed  during combustion so that the acids do not attack the oil or
metal parts

Scott Hensley
80 delta 88/455 rocket

------------------------------

From: scotthensley@juno.com (Scott W Hensley)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 11:18:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

On Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:44:46 -0300 Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
writes:
>splice them together later on of course. Does anyone know the right
>name
>for these and if they can be bought in the aftermarket? I'm sure they
>can
>but I've never seen them.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
>Canada
>

  I worked for a cable manufacturing house for 2 years. We built ABS
cables for the big rigs and LP gas conversion kits for government
automobiles. They used these types of connectors. One of my
responsibilities as test engineer  was to locate mating connectors. The
connector manufacture will not talk to you unless you order LARGE {read
1000's) quanities. G.M.'s Packard division builds these connectors and
the tools to crimp the pins. Sometimes the mating connectors total
production was being used on the system the cable mated to.

Some of your local auto supply stores should have the more popular types.
Otherwise your best bet is to keep snipping.

In reply to the wiring quality in automobiles I will have to agree with
Karl, the connectors and crimps are very poorly done in automobiles.
Most of our cable work was for military type vehicles and tanks. They
require strict crimp pull test where the wire crimps to the connector
pins. All the automotive cable specs I have used called out values half
or less of the military spec values when they existed. Poor crimps
translate into higher resistance (more voltage drop). The wire was also
not what it could be, especially insulation, exhibited poor heat
resistance compared to military spec wire.

Scott Hensley
80 delta 88/455 rocket

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 11:36:02 -0300
Subject: Brake/knuckle info

     I've done a little research into steering knuckle usage on disc brake
     vs non-disc applications for A-bodies, at the request of Chris Sparks,
     and I thought it might have some general interest, so I've posted it
     here as well.

     The following part numbers are listed in the dealer parts book:

     1966 (and presumably earlier)      P/N 385091
     67-69 Except Disc Brakes           P/N 396876
     67-69 Disc Brakes                  P/N 3894475
     68-69 Canadian (?!??)              P/N 1383958

     Note that my parts book only covers 66-69, however I assume that 64-66
     are the same, as are 67-72.  I was surprised that there was a
     different listing for disc vs. non-disc.  I was even more surprised
     that there was a different listing for Canadian-built cars, which did
     not specify disc or non-disc.  I infer from this that either there is
     no functional difference between the spindles, or there were no disc
     brake cars built in Canada (my first 68 442 was Canadian-built and it
     originally had drums).  Note also that the four-piston (67-68) and
     single piston (69-up) calipers both use the same knuckle.

     I did a little more research in the parts book, and discovered that
     the bolts which hold the backing plate/caliper bracket on the knuckle
     for both disc and drum applications for 67-up are the same, implying
     that while the part numbers are different, the knuckles should be
     functionally interchangeable.  Unfortunately, all of my drum brake
     hardware is long gone, so I can't easily compare the two.

     1966 and earlier cars used a smaller diameter bolt to hold the
     steering arm to the knuckle (one of these bolts also holds the lower
     end of the caliper bracket).  This means that when adding discs to the
     early cars, one must swap the complete knuckle.

     Hope this helps.  Sorry I took so long to respond.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@orbital.com (note new email address)

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 10:08:22 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh

OL>At 07:59 AM 4/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
OL>>OL>GM slowly  increased the spark plug gap from .030 to .060+  Why?  To
get OL>>OL>a longer burn and hotter spark (bigger gap = more resistance = need
for OL>[snip] OL>>If this is so then why on the '82 Cutlass with a 3.8 v6 that
I use to OL>>have did I see an improvement in power and gas mileage after I
dropped OL>>the gap from .080 or .060 down to .035. It picked up almost 2 mpg
and OL>>would spin the tires on smooth black top which it wouldn't do with the
OL>>stock gap.I agree that you need the hottest spark you can get and either
OL>>enough duration or multiple sparks to get the most complete burn
OL>>possible.

OL>Because your car's ignition system wasn't in top shape, and could regulary
OL>fire across a gap of .035", whereas it could only occasionally fire across
OL>the factory spec gap of .080"-.060"?
OL>_______________________________________________________
OL>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
OL>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918


This could be possible, but right after I bought the car I replaced the
cap,rotor,coil,wires,plugs with ac delco parts. (which still leaves the
module and stator) of course the parts I did replace could have been not
as good as they should have. It was a couple of months later I dropped
the gap. I know 2 other people that did the same thing and got the same
improvements.

With a more powerful ignition you should use a larger gap. I  should
have tried raising it to .040-.050 range, but I was happy with the
improvement I got so I left there, 23-25 mpg was good enough for me.

I spent about $1000 keeping all that computer crap working then had I
small under hood fire (not on purpose!) and burnt most of the computer
wiring. So I decided to scrap it. I went to the junk yard got a carb.
and distributor off of a '80 4.1 v6 put them on my 3.8 .     I had the
same performance but increased the mileage to 27-29 mpg!

One side effect of a complete burn (or close to) is that it raises NOX
emissions. So from what I understand from articles I've read is, that
they increase the power of the spark to improve low end throttle
response but put a bigger gap so that at cruise and higher rpm the coil
isn't able to build up as strong of a spark because of less saturation
time so you end up with a weaker spark and less NOX. Since the more
widely use of fuel injection these gap have gotten a little smaller.
That's because of better fuel management to keep emissions down.

This is just the way I was lead to believe it works. So if anybody
know's anything differant let me know.

Daren

daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª606
********************************
