To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #638


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 29 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 638

Repeat Sale - Quad4 Cap & Pin  (4/29)
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Olds Family
Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
This Web Page Stuff is HARD !
Re: 75 H/O
Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
Dry Wash Products?
'68 Cutlass 350
toro oil pan
re:1987 Cutlass Speakers
455 Manifold and carb
Your favorite Olds on a credit card
Re: 455 Aircleaner in 307
Re: Ol' Toro now runs!
Re: 455 Manifold and carb
Re: 69 Cutlass 'S'
Re: Valvetrain noise
Re:  TH 350 or TH400 ??
removal of outside mirrors
Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
RE: Type 'F' trans fluid
Re: Original Plates & Personalized
'66 Olds Cutlass Convert - For Sale
Re: TH 350 or TH400 ??
Valves
Re: Dry Wash Products?
Re: Original Plates & Personalized
'67 Supreme Seat
I want to white outline the letters on my tires
Re: The new guy .....
Re: removal of outside mirrors
Re: '68 Cutlass 350
Re: Paint Chip chart URL?
Re: The new guy .....
parts
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Misc. New Olds Parts
Cowl Tag HELP!!!  (re-xmit)
looking for manifold
Re: Valves
Re: Tire recommendation wanted
Rear Wing
Re: The new guy .....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 07:52:59 -0300
Subject: Repeat Sale - Quad4 Cap & Pin  (4/29)

- -- Repeat Sale ª1 --

I previously sold two of the following Oldsmobile related cap and pin
sets and had to disappoint at least one other potential buyer because I
though that was all I had.  I=B9ve since found one additional set however,
so I can again offer the following Oldsmobile related items for sale:

Oldsmobile racing cap and hat pin set.  Cap is red solid back with
=B3Oldsmobile Quad4=B2 embroidered in white and black.  Pin is silver
colored metal =B3Quad=B2 superimposed over =B34=B2, with black accents.  Li=
ke
new, as given to SCCA racers in 1989.  $20.00, including shipping to any
address in North America.  (4/29/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this final set, or if you would like additional information about it.
Thank you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 08:33:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

Duane recommends:

> I have found that Goodyear Eagles are real good (they hold the pavement like
> glue on my Buick, rain or shine), but the tread doesn't wear well.

I'm running Eagle STs on Big Red, and I have to agree here; the tires hold
the car to the road vey well.  Unfortunately, I believe Goodyear in their,
err, "infinite" wisdom has discontinued the STs.

> The Dunlop sports tire, the name escapes me at the moment, is VERY good.

I'm running a set of 'touring' Dunlops on the Fleetwood ('Elites'), purchased
the end of last year, and have been *very* happy with them.

> DO NOT BY FIRESTONE!!!!!  CHEAP PIECE OF CRAP!!!!!

That seems to be a fairly gen'l consensus :P
They never did recover from their Firestone %00 debacle in the 70s I guess...

> Michelin?  If the French can't kick any German butt in wars, can we trust
> them to build a tire?

LOL -- But seriously, among the *worst* tires I had on a car were a set of
Michelin... XZXs? I had on my Fiat 124 Spyder... Man, those things didn't
like wet roads!  And They did their very best to stay off of them :P

They lasted all of 2 weeks on the car (I found out quickly why someone would
give away a set of practically new tires), when I bought some Goodrich Comp
T/A's, which I liked much better.

FWIW, YMMV, yadda-yadda-yadda...



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Philip J Clarke <pjclarke@emirates.net.ae>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:18:38 -0300
Subject: Olds Family

Hello,

My name is Philip James Clarke. I am a decendant of the Olds Family. I =
am a New Zealander currently living in the Middle East. I am planning to =
travel home to New Zealand through the United States in a few months =
time and would like to trace members of my family and visit Oldsmobile =
plants if possible.

I am a great great nephew of Ransom E. Olds. I am the son of Christina =
(nee) Olds the youngest daughter of Francis E. Olds who was the youngest =
son of James Olds who came from Cornwall to New Zealand in 1883, whose =
father, also James Olds,  followed him to New Zealand a few years later.

I would be grateful for any contact information you could provide me or =
give me another avenue to pursue for this information.

Kind regards,

Philip J. Clarke.

P.O.Box 53614
Jumeirah
Dubai
United Arab Emirates
ph/fax (00971-4) 513 783
email: pjclarke@emirates.net.ae

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 09:47:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Car apprasials - auto insurance

At 08:12 PM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Jason Labay wrote:
>>
>>
>> Bill or anyone else, would these companies insure a 1980? I have been
>> wanting to get this type of insurance for my 80 442 W-30. While it isn't a
>> classic-yet, it is very rare with only 346 of the white/gold being
produced.
>> - - - - - - - - - - -
>> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
>Jason,
>
>I believe that everyone of them will.  Any special collectible is
>eligable.  The rates are a little higher if the car is less than 25
>years of age though.  The rest of the rules & benefits are in place no
>matter it's age.  The prices are still much cheaper than regular
>insurance.
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama

I think that many of these collector car insurance companies will insure a
care as new as 15 years old.  A 1980 model car would thus be eligible.

Dan


**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 10:41:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

What kind of shape are the '69 442 grilles in?

Patrickd@wwnet.com
'69 442 conv.




> 69 Cutlass/442
> 69 442 Rear bumper (Nice)   $140.00
> 69 442 Grilles (very good)  $160.00 pr
> Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
> Hood Tongue   $10.00
> LH Tail Light    $20.00
> 4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00
>
> 70 Cutlass/442
> 70-72 RH Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
> 70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $25.00 ea
> 70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
> 69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $30.00 pr
> 69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
> (1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $15.00
> (1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $15.00
> (1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
> Hood Tongue   $30.00 ea
> Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
> 442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
> Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
> 70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
> 70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
> 70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire
>
> 72 Cutlass/442
> 70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $20.00 ea
> (4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
> Dash Pads (A/C car, black)   $100.00 ea
> (5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00
>
> Misc: 65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $30.00 pr
> 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set
>
> P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
> Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
> $24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire
> console shift lens. Beautiful reproduction. $35.00 plus $3.00 shipping.  We
> are getting ready to tool up for the 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate shift lens for
> reproduction soon.
>
> Jim Chermack
> '70 SX W-32
> '72 442
> '86 Ninety Eight
> '94 Cutlass Supreme
> '96 C-1500
> Virginia  Beach, VA
> (757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 10:04:29 -0300
Subject: This Web Page Stuff is HARD !

     All,
     Until I get my act together, like getting the graphics to show up,
     hold off on looking at www.erols.com/brad442. I thought the graphics
     went up imbedded in the HTML file.  I'm new to this web page designing
     stuff, so bear with me.
     BRYCEMAN IS THE OLDSMOBILE INTERNET WEB PAGE GOD !!!
     (Insert graphics of humbled web surfer and page posting wannabe on his
     knees bowing to www.442.com opening screen on monitor)

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H) brad442@erols.com
www.erols.com/brad442 (Try again on Thursday)

------------------------------

From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 10:42:57 -0300
Subject: Re: 75 H/O

As for the leaking T- tops, I currently own 2 - 75 Hurst/Olds and both of
them leaked when I got them, with some close inspection I found that the
clips that hold the T-tops  to the inner roof were bent and very worn. I
placed a piece of cardboard over the weatherstrip by the clips and drilled
the rivits out with a very small bit. Taking a small piece of angle iron I
ground it down bigger then the clip that came off the car and drilled the
holes to match the old clip and counter sunk the holes, then I used some nice
crome inteior screws ( I had to cut the crome washers off )  from a HELPS
brand varitity pack, the 90 degree angle of the new clips makes it harder to
get the tops on but it holds them much tighter and most importantly they
stopped leaking.. Hopes this helps. Jeffrey "DUKE" Fieldsend

75 Hurst/Olds W-25
75 Hurst/Olds W-30
75 Cutlass "S" currently parting out!!!

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:14:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers

Gilbert Russell wrote:
>
> And I thought I was the only one that made the mistake of using a
> screwdriver to remove the grills in the winter.  I removed them last summer
> no problem tried the same thing in February and now I have 2 nice little
> cracks in the dash.  I guess its time for a dash cover <sniff>.  No really
> Replacing the 3 1/2" is not the only thing you will have to worry about if
> you want a nice sounding stereo.  I also replaced the stock speakers with
> 100 watt pioneers  3 1/2" front and 4x10 back. Now you will notice that the
> rear speakers will handle just about all volume levels but the front will
> distort just about any bass signal other than low volumes.  you should
> consult your local car audio shop and ask about "bass blockers" for the
> front speakers this will allow you to fade the sound up front with out
> distortion where the driver is and since bass is nondirectional you will
> still get the benefit of what bass the 4 x 10's will give you.  If your
> replacing the stock radio consider getting a sub woofer(s) and amp or at
> least switching to 6 x 9 with adapter boxes for the rear deck.  This will
> give you more punch to your music and make up a little for the poor speaker
> placement used in the 80's G body olds.
>
> Subject: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
> Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
> Date:    4/22/97 9:26 PM
>
> Pioneer 4X10's that I took out of my old car.  Now, the rear sounds great,
> but
> the front are distorting somewhat.  I plan on ordering a pair of Pioneer
>
> 3 1/2's this summer, but I need help on removing the grills.  I know that
> someone told me how to do this last year on my 85 Cutlass, but I never got
> around to doing it.  If someone could help me out it would be greatly
> appreciated. Thanks.
>     Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu
>
> From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
> Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:36:52 -0300
> Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
>
>     Do this when the dash is warm so that
>      it's pliable, when removing the speakers from my '79 in the dead of
>      winter (to put the factory ones back, I was selling the car) I cracked
>
>      my dash because it was too cold.
>
>          Last comment:  Don't cheap out on the front speakers.  These are
> the
>      ones that you hear the most.  Get some good quality ones, the Pioneer
>      are probably okay, I haven't heard them.
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com

A really sweet sounding system in your 80's cutlass can be achieved
while maintaining a clean factory look, go with a good quality component
speaker system with a tweeter in the dash location and a 5.25" driver in
the lower door. For mounting ease, order the factory GM door grills (in
your color) from the Concert Sound option found in 80's Buick Regals.
Along with the two grills you'll need the mounting baskets, the cost
might run around $35-40 for the dealer stuff. Speakers would be up to
you. When you remove the door panel you'll see indents where the baskets
mount, cut the round hole, screw in the basket with the speaker in it,
cut the lower interior panel, mount the grill, done !
A word on sound....Tom Lentz is right on target....the image should
always apear to be comming from the sound stage well in front of the
listener, (not 200 watts into 6x9's on the rear deck). Rear speakers are
needed for fill only, the main source should be the front. My audio show
vehicle has only 30 watts per channel of rear deck fill. It should be
clean and crisp without being to tinny. And even a small sub makes a
world of differencs.
When your done, if it's right, close your eyes and you'll hear each
instrument clearly in front of you !

Check out the site below, click on the 442 picture for more trick audio
stuff, .

- --

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

     Visit http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/14/97)

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eon.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:09:50 -0300
Subject: Dry Wash Products?

Have any of you ever used one of those 'dry-wash' products on your paint
job?  I've got a dark green (clear coat) 1938 street rod and some paint
swirling is showing.  I would like to use a product to eliminate them
and give the car a deep thick-looking finish.

I would appreciate hearing about your positive or negative advice.


Sincerely,

Stan Hartfelder
Edmonton, AB  CANADA

------------------------------

From: "Bohn,Ray" <Ray_Bohn@ce.xerox.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:41:14 -0300
Subject: '68 Cutlass 350

My son and I recently acquired a 1968 Cutlass Supreme, 2dr Hardtop. We
 added originally Rally wheels, 2.5" dual exhaust, new coil springs,
 front and rear sway bars and rebuilt the front end. In addition we
 installed a 700r4 tranny with a shift kit to replace the 2 speed auto.
 This is a first time project for both of us and we would appreciate
 any assistance in the following areas:

Engine: 350 4bbl. 10.25:1
We would like to increase performance with "Bolt on" parts. Has anyone
 had any experience with Edelbrock intake manifolds, carbs and cams?
 Their marketing makes it sound like  a safe way to go, but when I
 called their tech line, they couldn't tell me how their cams compared
 to my original. They indicated that the specs on my original were not
 available to them. What about Mondello? We would like to add as much
 street power as possible without a car rocking idle.

Body:
We have been unable to locate any kind of "Patch Panels" for the area
 around the rear wheel openings. Any ideas?

Thanks

Ray and Brent Bohn

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:08:22 -0300
Subject: toro oil pan

I am looking for a toro oil pan for a 455.  I think someone posted one a
little while back.  If you or someone else has one for sale, please email
me directly at dedarnell@electro-matic.com, or better yet, call me at 517
545 8838 after 5 or 810 615 3925 before 5.  I need one right away.

Thank you,
Dave.

------------------------------

From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:00:01 -0300
Subject: re:1987 Cutlass Speakers

At 07:48 PM 4/28/97 -0300, you wrote:
>And I thought I was the only one that made the mistake of using a
>screwdriver to remove the grills in the winter.  I removed them last summer
>no problem tried the same thing in February and now I have 2 nice little
>cracks in the dash.  I guess its time for a dash cover <sniff>.  No really
>Replacing the 3 1/2" is not the only thing you will have to worry about if
>you want a nice sounding stereo.  I also replaced the stock speakers with
>100 watt pioneers  3 1/2" front and 4x10 back. Now you will notice that the
>rear speakers will handle just about all volume levels but the front will
>distort just about any bass signal other than low volumes.  you should
>consult your local car audio shop and ask about "bass blockers" for the
>front speakers this will allow you to fade the sound up front with out
>distortion where the driver is and since bass is nondirectional you will
>still get the benefit of what bass the 4 x 10's will give you.  If your
>replacing the stock radio consider getting a sub woofer(s) and amp or at
>least switching to 6 x 9 with adapter boxes for the rear deck.  This will
>give you more punch to your music and make up a little for the poor speaker
>placement used in the 80's G body olds.
>
>Subject: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
>Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET
>Date:    4/22/97 9:26 PM
>
>Pioneer 4X10's that I took out of my old car.  Now, the rear sounds great,
>but
>the front are distorting somewhat.  I plan on ordering a pair of Pioneer
>
>3 1/2's this summer, but I need help on removing the grills.  I know that
>someone told me how to do this last year on my 85 Cutlass, but I never got
>around to doing it.  If someone could help me out it would be greatly
>appreciated. Thanks.
>    Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu
>
>
>From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
>Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:36:52 -0300
>Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
>
>    Do this when the dash is warm so that
>     it's pliable, when removing the speakers from my '79 in the dead of
>     winter (to put the factory ones back, I was selling the car) I cracked
>
>     my dash because it was too cold.
>
>         Last comment:  Don't cheap out on the front speakers.  These are
>the
>     ones that you hear the most.  Get some good quality ones, the Pioneer
>     are probably okay, I haven't heard them.
>
>     Tom Lentz
>     tlentz@teknon.com
>
>
>
>
>
>I put those adapter boxes in my '87 Cutlass and they are junk! The two
metal bars that hold the trunk open were in the way because the new 6x9's
extended further down in the trunk. I tried to make the bars fit by bending
them but that just took the temper out of them. (don't let anyone tell you
that is not spring steal, it is!) So now I need a broom stick to hold my
trunk lid open. I'm going to take the 6x9's out this summer and put them
somewhere else and put 4x10's back there again.

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

From: "dayc" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 04:56:53 -0300
Subject: 455 Manifold and carb

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC5472.E701EFC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have recently aquired a 455 manifold and a carb.
I am trying to identify them.  The carb is ª7044997.  The manifold has =
412753 stamped on it.  I got it from a 1970 SX Cutlass Supreme.  I think =
it is the original manifold.  I have a 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe.  =
Does anyone have anymore info on 455's in this model olds(Cutlass =
Holiday Coupe)? =20
Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Olds Cutlass S
1968 Delta 88


- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC5472.E701EFC0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY>
<P><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D+0>I have recently aquired a 455 =
manifold and a=20
carb.</FONT></FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D+0></FONT><FONT face=3DArial>I am =
trying to=20
identify them.  The carb is ª7044997.  The manifold has 412753 stamped =
on it.  I=20
got it from a 1970 SX Cutlass Supreme.  I think it is the original =
manifold.  I=20
have a 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe.  Does anyone have anymore info on =
455's in=20
this model olds(Cutlass Holiday Coupe)?  </FONT></FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D+0>Corey Day</FONT></FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D+0><A=20
href=3D"mailto:dayc@ix.netcom.com">dayc@ix.netcom.com</A></FONT></FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D+0>1970 Olds Cutlass S</FONT></FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D+0>1968 Delta 88</FONT></P>

</BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC5472.E701EFC0--

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 13:15:57 -0300
Subject: Your favorite Olds on a credit card

Last week I received a VISA credit card offer for car lovers from Travelers
Bank. They have three car card designs (50's, 60's, modern), but also have
a design where you can put a picture of your car on the card.

Wouldn't you just love to share the Olds when you make a purchase? Probably
have to brush up on "What you are looking at is a superior automobile, not
to be confused with a ch*vy!". Maybe your OCA number could be included in
the picture for those instant swap meet discounts.

If you want more information, give them a call at 800-895-3644. They are
claiming 0% introductory APR for six months, 6.9% transfer, and no annual
fee.

Disclaimer: Posted this for your information only. I have no monetary or
otherwise interest in this offer.


David Brown   Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com, http://www.en.com/users/thall, or
http://www.cybercity.hko.net/ulan_bator/gee/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:17:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 Aircleaner in 307

At 01:08 AM 4/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I got a 455 air-cleaner assembley from a ' 72 OLDS 98.  It looks like it
>will fit into my 307 '81 Delta 88, but I might have to extend the top-pice
>hole a little to fit the carburator screw.  This air-cleaner acomodates a
>bigger air-filter so I am thinking better flow (I had a Edelbrock open
>air-filter element but returened it cause I was unhappy and got my $60.00
>back).  Would this change make a difference at all.  I know it would look

Well, the opening on those older single-snorkel aircleaners was often
narrower than those of later cars like your 307. Plus you'll lose your
cold-air induction hookup. If you've got it, though, try it; just make sure
all vacuum lines are accounted for, and none are left open!

>better, so even if it is the same, I would do it.  That OLDSMOBILE 455
>ROCKET sticker might make me pull the motor out of the ' 72 as well.

NOW you're talking... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:13:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Ol' Toro now runs!

At 11:58 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>     Well, I ~finally~ got the Toro to go today.  What a nightmare!  It sat
[snip of success story]
>at a fast idle for a bit, to try clearing stuff out.  Holy S***, did it
>smoke!!!  Even with the far side of North Dakota flooding, I think I still

CONGRATULATIONS!!! As for the mouse nest/guts in the motor, yeah, it takes a
while for those to burn off (my '68 smoked for quite a few hours from the
hot-air tube)

>     So anyway, I drove it up on the lawn to put water in the radiator
>(which leaks heavily) and openned the hood.  This is when I noticed the fuel
>shooting out of the pump at a ~very~ strong rate :(  So I shut it off, and

:o   ! Yes, you always want to make sure that the fuel lines *and* the
electrical lines on your Toro are in perfect shape, without any pinches,
leaks or bare wires. Engine fires can happen very easily, especially since
there's no room under there and things get *very* hot!

>see the big gash in the driver's front corner...   I am going to have big CV
>repairs soon to come, though, if I do decide to fix it up anytime soon.
>They were clicking pretty bad :(  Oh well, I've got bigger worries at this

Not surprising. Go for a whole assembly; I believe that they're still
available rebuilt through the regular auto parts channels.

>point in time.  I'm just releived that it runs!  I'm not looking foreward to
>changing that fuel pump though.  I'm not impressed with the accessory layout
>of these things.  That ª2 spark plug sure is a b**ch!  The pump don't look
>much better...  Oh, well.  That's why I studied auto tech, right?

For the ª2 sparkplug, use just the sparkplug socket and an open-end wrench
to loosen it, and then undo it by hand. It's much easier without the battery
in place; other than that, it helps to have an extra joint right in the
middle of your forearm...

As for the fuel-pump, go at it from underneath. And if you need new fuel
line (all Toros this vintage do), see the Toro archives about the correct
and easy procedure (as opposed to the incorrect and impossible procedure).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:47:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 Manifold and carb

At 03:56 AM 4/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have recently aquired a 455 manifold and a carb.
>I am trying to identify them.  The carb is ª7044997.  The manifold has 412753
 Is that a 4-bbl carb? If so, then you've got a 1974 4-bbl there (don't even
think it's from an Olds; which direction does the fuel inlet point?), and I
don't know about the intake. Is there a pad for an EGR valve on the intake
manifold? If so, it's a post-'73 unit as well.

>stamped on it.  I got it from a 1970 SX Cutlass Supreme.  I think it is the
>original manifold.  I have a 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe.  Does anyone
have >anymore info on 455's in this model olds(Cutlass Holiday Coupe)?

Hmm, is your Coupe originally a 455/2-bbl? The 2-bbl L-33 engine was
available as an option on all Cutlass models until Feb. 1970, when it was
dropped. What's the production date on your car?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:47:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass 'S'

At 02:13 AM 4/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I now have a 69 Cutlass 'S' Convertable, 350/350 with
>a 2bbl and dual exaust. It's no snail now but as you all know it's not
>enough. My Question is what can I do to spice it up just a little. I
>know I need to go to a 4bbl. any recomendations on which carb. and
>manifold would be best. Also would that be a good time to go to HEI,
>would HEI produce a marked improvement. Or should I get into the motor

A stock pre-EGR iron 4-bbl and Quadrajet would work well, though it's a lot
easier (though more expensive) to order-up a new Performer intake and carb.

Oh, and the HEI will improve driveability and reduce the amount of attention
you need to give the car, but won't markedly improve all-out performance.

>and maybe replace the Cam. and work my way out(I'd hate to do that
>because the motor was rebuilt 3yrs. ago and only has 4500 miles on it.)
>I'm not a millionaire so try to keep $$$$ in mind.

Well, since everything else is new, you should be able to get a new cam and
lifters, along with a front-cover gasket kit, for around $150. This will
make the biggest difference in the performance of your car, so I'd sacrifice
the Performer intake (around $170) for an iron 4-bbl intake and the cam
(also about $170 total).

>One last Question Any quick tips on improveing handling I have new
>225*60*15 tires new shocks and the springs look ok?

Polyurethane bushings on your stabilizer bar (anti-sway bar) end-links, and
make sure you've got a stabilizer bar on the rear axle. Also check that all
front suspension components are in top shape.

>I've been reading these Emails  for a few weeks and have picked up lots
>already. Thanks.
>And Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
>
> Pat McDermott
> Louisville KY.
>
>
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:47:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Valvetrain noise

At 01:52 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The engine with the forged steel crank is one that I bought from a local
>junkyard.
>I'd called the guy looking for one I could rebuild between '68-'70.  He
>told me he had one from a '71. I went and looked at it and noticed it was a
>'68 with no heads, 2-barrel intake.  GAve him $50 for it, brought it home,
>sprayed it down with oven cleaner, let it set overnight.  Cleaned and
>sprayed with high-pressure hose and revealed red paint (which indicated it
>was an early '68).  Took oil pan off, found ª's 400943 on the rear throw,
>saw the wide parting lines.  I also noticed that the front throw has "AC"
>stamped in it.  Does anyone know what this means?  AC Delco?  I think it's
>the original crank for the block.  The block's a '68 F4.

You are the MAN!!! What a find, and what a buy!

This is the second confirmed sighting of a Forged 455 crank from a 2-bbl
motor. That settles it, folks; stop parting out those Toros; you want those
Deltas with the towing package and the 2-bbl motors!

>My valvetrain noise is coming from one valve only, it appears.  this makes
>me think it's a loose valve seat.

Yikes! Depending on the compression test, you may want to pull the head
before you drop a valve.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 14:03:27 -0300
Subject: Re:  TH 350 or TH400 ??

Recognizing this may start an argument I am interested in whether there
is a consensus on using a TH350 or TH400 behind a mild to medium modified
455?  I am going to buy a B&M trans and would like to get the "right"
one. I know the TH350 weighs less, saps fewer horses, etc but will it
hold up behind 425-450 horses using a 2400-2800 converter.  Thanks for
your thoughts.  I have seen both recommended here and in the FAQ.

Al


  http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 14:27:17 -0300
Subject: removal of outside mirrors

I was just curious if anyone knew how difficult it is to remove the
door mirrors on a G-Body Cutlass.  I found a right hand remote mirror in a
salvage yard and want to swap this onto my Cutlass.  My chasis manual
doesn't give any info on removing the mirror and I can't remember if it
was accessable when you remove the interior panel.

Thanks in advance,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 14:28:41 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers

SNIP___
> A really sweet sounding system in your 80's cutlass can be achieved
> while maintaining a clean factory look, go with a good quality component
> speaker system with a tweeter in the dash location and a 5.25" driver in
> the lower door. For mounting ease, order the factory GM door grills (in
> your color) from the Concert Sound option found in 80's Buick Regals.
> Along with the two grills you'll need the mounting baskets, the cost
> might run around $35-40 for the dealer stuff. Speakers would be up to
> you. When you remove the door panel you'll see indents where the baskets
> mount, cut the round hole, screw in the basket with the speaker in it,
> cut the lower interior panel, mount the grill, done !
> A word on sound....Tom Lentz is right on target....the image should
> always apear to be comming from the sound stage well in front of the
> listener, (not 200 watts into 6x9's on the rear deck). Rear speakers are
> needed for fill only, the main source should be the front. My audio show
> vehicle has only 30 watts per channel of rear deck fill. It should be
> clean and crisp without being to tinny. And even a small sub makes a
> world of differencs.
> When your done, if it's right, close your eyes and you'll hear each
> instrument clearly in front of you !
>
> Check out the site below, click on the 442 picture for more trick audio
> stuff, .
>
> --
>
> Bill !
>
>                                               _           _       ___
Bill do you know what the GM Partª is for the door speaker pods. I
tried to get them about 3 years ago and the guy at the counter
looked at me like I was from Mars. I was also curious about the
drivers, what size and how many can fit in each door, and do you
have to cut the metal in the door for them to fit. I know you have
to cut the plastic lower half of the door, but I have a spare set
from another car, I'm not going to cut my originals
>
>      Visit http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/14/97)
>
>

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 15:25:46 -0300
Subject: RE: Type 'F' trans fluid

This is a common trick that the Grand National guys do. You don't have to
rebuild the trans first to put in the type F. It is compatible w/ Dextron so
they say. It has less friction mofifiers then Dextron thus giving a 'harder'
shift then Dextron.
So in a word. Yes, you can use Type F in a GM trans.




=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 14:52:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates & Personalized

On 4/28/97 Dan wrote:
>
> Are you sure you've got this correct?  I live in Ohio, too, and I've
gotten
> both the Historical Vehicle and Personalized plates.  >

Sorry Dan, I kinda ran my thoughts together!  I was talking about
Historical plates first, and Personalized next, I didn't mean to imply that
you could get both.

However, they do have a computer in the Berea, OH license bureau which
allows you to immediately check on the availability of plates. This is much
better than the written request method for personalized and reserved
plates. Not sure if other brances have them yet. The terminal is ancient,
with a early 80s monitor with the green letters.

I ordered personalized plates once for my '70 Plym*uth Fury III conv.
(still for sale, cheap) I was outraged to find that Cuyahoga County (Cleve)
charged $72 (twice the going rate) for renewal! Let's see, $72 for a
sticker or $36 for a whole new plate & sticker. Make the guys in Lebanon
Correctional earn their 14 cent-per-day salary! I thought that was fleecing
by the county, so I did not renew it.

I did opt for the "reserved" plate for my everyday car, which only cost $10
extra. You can still get creative with these. I have "EO 11" on my everyday
car (title song from the 1960 Ratpack flick 'Ocean's Eleven,' no one asks,
so I never have to explain), but in the same vein, I got "FO 55" for my
Delta. I love it when people work through this one: Fo Fifty-Five!

BTW I've been meaning to e-mail you,  we've got a few things in common. I'm
an Ohioan (east-side 'burbs of Cleveland), Delta 88 ragtop owner ('69), and
I'm an OU Grad (J-school class of '85). Yes, I'm a disgrace to the j-school
if I can't correctly place my thoughts in an e-mail!

I cruise down to Athens once a year for an annual "grad-summit" (a pie-eyed
weekend at the OU Inn and maybe a football game!) Maybe I'll bring the Olds
look you up this year!

Sorry, more 'Rambler' than Olds content

Paul Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
'69 Delta 88 Conv 455
Go Bobcats - Grrrrrrrr!




------------------------------

From: David Jenkins <David@vinca.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:47:20 -0300
Subject: '66 Olds Cutlass Convert - For Sale

Car is as follows:

$850 - will negotiate
330 V8
Automatic on column
Bucket seats
Midnight Blue
Light Blue interior
Light Blue top

Condition: Car is complete.  Engine is stored and out of car.  Some rust in
rear quarters around wheel well,  in lower front fenders behind wheel well
opening and small strip 8" long along front edge of hood.  Floor pans are
solid with no rust.  Dash and pad are in good condition.  Original radio is
missing.  Dash has not been cut.  All interior trim, hardware, etc. is intact.
This car needs restoration and  is a project but is going inexpensively.

I have too many car projects and need more room.

Contact Dave Jenkins at:
Home 801-224-4086
Work 801-229-9140
Cowl tag info available if interested.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:04:52 -0300
Subject: Re: TH 350 or TH400 ??

The Viking wrote:
>
> Recognizing this may start an argument I am interested in whether there
> is a consensus on using a TH350 or TH400 behind a mild to medium modified
> 455?  I am going to buy a B&M trans and would like to get the "right"
> one. I know the TH350 weighs less, saps fewer horses, etc but will it
> hold up behind 425-450 horses using a 2400-2800 converter.  Thanks for
> your thoughts.  I have seen both recommended here and in the FAQ.
>
> Al
>
>   http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>
>
Al,

In drag racing, the 350 is preferable if it is built up.  Stock, the 400
is stronger.  If the proper rebuild is done, they both can take mucho
HP.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 15:03:16 -0300
Subject: Valves

Hi All,

        While browsing myclassiccar.com I read a restoration tip regarding
hardened valve seats.  They claim that you can get either hardened valve
seats or hardened valves you  don't need both to be hardened.

        I am going to take a set of C heads to the machine shop next week
and I am wondering whether I need to have them put hardened seats in, or if
I can simply buy new valves (which it needs anyway).  I was thinking about
Mondello's stainless steel valves, does anyone have any experience with
these valves.

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

From: <Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 15:02:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Dry Wash Products?

Re: the use of the dri-wash products:

We have used the dri-wash products on our '55 98 Holiday Coupe for the last
year or so.  It is great for a shine, but does not do much for paint
swirling  i.e. polish marks in the paint.  Our 98 is also base coat - clear
coat.

However, the advantage of dri-wash is that for going to car shows,
especially here in rainy B.C., you can just wipe the car down with a wet
towel followed by a dry towel, and it looks great.  It does reduce
fingerprinting considerably on the chrome too which is great for those
lookey-loos who cannot read the "Do not touch" signs!

BTW, I assume, Stan, that you are likely a member of the Northern Lights
Chapter.  Were you at either Couer d'Alene or Banff weekend?  If you're
coming out to the Parksville weekend rally in September, we'll look forward
to meeting you then.

Sherry Soball
B. C. Olds Club
soballs@douglas.bc.ca
- --

------------------------------

From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:45:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Original Plates & Personalized

Reply to message from fikaris@en.com of Tue, 29 Apr
>
>
>On 4/28/97 Dan wrote:
>>
>> Are you sure you've got this correct?  I live in Ohio, too, and I've
>gotten
>> both the Historical Vehicle and Personalized plates.  >
>
>Sorry Dan, I kinda ran my thoughts together!  I was talking about
>Historical plates first, and Personalized next, I didn't mean to imply that
>you could get both.
>
>However, they do have a computer in the Berea, OH license bureau which
>allows you to immediately check on the availability of plates. This is much
>better than the written request method for personalized and reserved
>plates. Not sure if other brances have them yet. The terminal is ancient,
>with a early 80s monitor with the green letters.
>
>I ordered personalized plates once for my '70 Plym*uth Fury III conv.
>(still for sale, cheap) I was outraged to find that Cuyahoga County (Cleve)
>charged $72 (twice the going rate) for renewal! Let's see, $72 for a
>sticker or $36 for a whole new plate & sticker. Make the guys in Lebanon
>Correctional earn their 14 cent-per-day salary! I thought that was fleecing
>by the county, so I did not renew it.
>
>I did opt for the "reserved" plate for my everyday car, which only cost $10
>extra. You can still get creative with these. I have "EO 11" on my everyday
>car (title song from the 1960 Ratpack flick 'Ocean's Eleven,' no one asks,
>so I never have to explain), but in the same vein, I got "FO 55" for my
>Delta. I love it when people work through this one: Fo Fifty-Five!
>
>BTW I've been meaning to e-mail you,  we've got a few things in common. I'm
>an Ohioan (east-side 'burbs of Cleveland), Delta 88 ragtop owner ('69), and
>I'm an OU Grad (J-school class of '85). Yes, I'm a disgrace to the j-school
>if I can't correctly place my thoughts in an e-mail!
>
>I cruise down to Athens once a year for an annual "grad-summit" (a pie-eyed
>weekend at the OU Inn and maybe a football game!) Maybe I'll bring the Olds
>look you up this year!
>
>Sorry, more 'Rambler' than Olds content
>
>Paul Fikaris
>fikaris@en.com
>'69 Delta 88 Conv 455
>Go Bobcats - Grrrrrrrr!
>

  Hi, I had to reply to this email because this is the first time i've
heard of another delta (late 60's early 70's) in the cleveland suburbs
area. I own a '70 delta 2dr HT, I do have a question for you, where do you
go for parts? local or mail order? I have been having some front end
problems and ended up paying an arm and a leg for a spindle and rotor, used
but in decent shape. and if your car has the front wheel speedo drive,
could you please be kind enough to pull the dust cover off and tell me how
the castle nut is held in, thios I haven't been able to find out and I
don't wan't my wheel falling off :)
on the other side, have a nice day

'70 delta 88
'79 cutlass
possibility for a '72 cutlass =)

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

From: "John E. Cameron" <cameronj@u.washington.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:07:13 -0300
Subject: '67 Supreme Seat

I need a front supreme bench seat from a '67 cutlass 2 door.  This is one
with the armrest in the middle.  I don't care about the upholstery
condition, but I need a seat. If anyone can help, I would really
appreciate.

                                      John E. Cameron
                                      University of Washington

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:06:00 -0300
Subject: I want to white outline the letters on my tires

All of the recent posts on tire recommendations got me thinking about a
previous problem that I've been unable to solve.  I have Goodyear VR60
Eagle Gatorbacks on my 442.   IMHO, these are the best tires you can get
for cornering and wet weather driving.  Dry traction is excellent also,
although comparing anything to the M&H DOT slicks I've have used in the
past has been disappointing.  For the owner of the H/O who wrote in, I
recommend 225/60 VR15 Eagles.  Since these were the stock tires for
several years of 5.0 Mustangs, that particular size will probably be
around for a few years.  I bought 245/60 VR 15's, which was the stock
size for mid-late 80's Camaros/Firebirds, and Goodyear stopped making
these about two years ago.  I hope I never have a blow out.

Anyhow, to get back to the question at hand, I like these tires (the
Gatorbacks) but would like them even better if the lettering was white
outlined.  I outlined the "GOODYEAR", the winged boot logo and the
"EAGLE VR60" using a white "Mean Streak" permanent grease pencil.  The
tires looked fantastic (very retro 1970 looking), but the permanent
grease pencil did not last long due to the flexing of the sidewall.
Does anyone have a recommendation for how to white outline my tires with
something that will last?

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: TURBO38@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:50:45 -0300
Subject: Re: The new guy .....

hey new guy, go easy on the olds folks. technology has come a long way since
the 70's. there is no way a 70 442 can compete with a new z28 for all out
performance, however , for quarter mile times only i've laid down many a Z28
in a 70 442. the handling ,braking and fuel economy is what make the new cars
easier to live with. if you want to pick on a new car i have a 89 20th anniv.
turbo trans am that will wax that Z28 even when you get your nitrous set up
and i'm in Texas too. so go easy on the olds folks. we know what time it is.

------------------------------

From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:46:16 -0300
Subject: Re: removal of outside mirrors

Tis not difficult at all.  Remove the interior door trim and loosen the
window mounting bolts so the window slides down and out of the way.
After that all it takes is a 1/4 or 3/8 socket and you are home free  :-)
However, check the mounting holes carefully as not all g-bodies will
accept the same mirrors.  Holes are spaced differently.
Good luck

Al

On Tue, 29 Apr 1997, Barnacle Bill wrote:

>
> I was just curious if anyone knew how difficult it is to remove the
> door mirrors on a G-Body Cutlass.  I found a right hand remote mirror in a
> salvage yard and want to swap this onto my Cutlass.  My chasis manual
> doesn't give any info on removing the mirror and I can't remember if it
> was accessable when you remove the interior panel.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Reilly
> '85 Cutlass Supreme
> wreilly@acad.bryant.edu
>
>


  http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:25:25 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass 350

At 10:41 AM 4/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>My son and I recently acquired a 1968 Cutlass Supreme, 2dr Hardtop. We
[snip]
>Engine: 350 4bbl. 10.25:1
>We would like to increase performance with "Bolt on" parts. Has anyone
> had any experience with Edelbrock intake manifolds, carbs and cams?

That's a great engine to start with. Assuming the engine is in excellent
condition (rings are tight, not burning oil, good even compression, no oil
leaks, etc.), then I'd have to suggest a performance camshaft as the most
cost-effective modification, way before a new intake and carb. Changing the
cam can give you 30-60 more hp; a new intake and carb would only give you
10-20 hp, for three times the cost. Mild porting and bigger intake valves
would mainly involve labor, but for around $300-$500, you could pick up
another 25-50hp. Of course, you face the law of diminishing returns with
further modifications. I'd go with a Mondello cam grind; you may find the
Performer cam too mild.

All this is assuming that the current carb is properly jetted for your car,
and everything is working well. Needless to say, replacing a malfuntioning
carb with a new performance carb would result in dramatic improvements (but
so would replacing the malfunctioning carb with a properly-functioning stock
carb!).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:29:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint Chip chart URL?

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> A while back someone mentioned that they had scanned in a paint chip
> chart from '70 or '71 and put it up on a web page. Unfortunately I
> didn't bookmark it and now I can't find it. Can anyone refresh my
> memory? Thanks!
>
> Greg Beaulieu

I believe it was Drew Senko's web page.
http://members.aol.com/drewinva/index.htm

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:31:37 -0300
Subject: Re: The new guy .....

At 11:08 PM 4/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>is because of the warm reception the Caddy owner got when talking about his
>Olds 350.
>
>I own a Pontiac Trans AM with the "mighty 301". It's tired and ready for a
>break.  So, I have located another TA ('79 Indy Pace car, 10th anniversary)
>with a 403/TH350 setup and am looking at a swap.  The TA was stolen and
[snip]
>I'm not looking to make a tire melting, sound barrier breaking motor.  Just
>a healthy 250 -275hp, pump gas, daily driver Olds 403.

I did this exact motor (even used the core from a '79 T/A) for my Buick
Electra to replace the stock 403. It's quite simple:

* Rebuild kit from PST (they price it the same as their 350 kit, whereas
most other places charge more than they charge for their 455 kit!)
* "7a" heads from a '72 350 for higher compression and hardened valve seats
(though ª5, ª6 or ª7 heads would work as well if you installed hardened
valve seats)
* Performer intake, stock carb rejetted for new combination (I still have to
tune mine)
* Whatever cam you can live with (mine's rather mild).

You should also have at least 3.08 or 3.23 gears to take advantage of this
motor's potential. If you can, also use the Hooker headers for this chassis,
as the stock small-block manifolds are not the freest-flowing ones around.

Let me know if you have any more specific questions. And by all means, do
read through the FAQ for information on small block heads and such.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: CK1951@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:49:28 -0300
Subject: parts

who ia a good scource for old/new stock of 1975 88 Olds Royale Conv. side
mouldings,chrome emblems,steering wheels (original equipment) ????

Thank You
CK1951@AOL.COM

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:02:03 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

At 10:41 AM 4/29/97 -0300, you wrote:
>What kind of shape are the '69 442 grilles in?
>
>Patrickd@wwnet.com
>'69 442 conv.

Patrick

        These grilles are in very good condition.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:09:30 -0300
Subject: Misc. New Olds Parts

We just got in the following items for 71-72 Cutlass Models

71 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (nice)  pot metal  $125.00 pr
71 Cutlass S Griles (very nice)  $110.00 pr
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr

Let us know if your interested.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: "smardale@airmail.net" <smardale@airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:46:57 -0300
Subject: Cowl Tag HELP!!!  (re-xmit)

<<Sorry if this gets repeated-- I first posted this quite a while ago, and
haven't seen it up here yet.  My ISP has been eating mail lately ;) >>


A local body shop had done some work on my '65 442 Holiday Coupe a while
back, and for some reason, they decided to remove (and then LOSE) my body
tag.  After playing Dick Tracy with the only (grainy) picture I had of the
tag and deciphering what some of the numbers HAD to be given the known
original paint combination/interior options etc, I've come up with the
following (which may or may not be entirely correct)...

12C
ST   65-33837      LAN 7677   BODY
TR   950-B         R-C        PAINT
? ???
4T


12C         = Time Build Code: Third week, December 1964.
ST 65-33837 = Style: 1965 Cutlass Holiday Coupe
LAN 7677    = Line Number 7677, Lansing.
TR 950-B    = Deluxe black interior, bucket seats.
R-C         = Two-Tone Paint: Red body, white top. (ack!)
? ???       = Unreadable; can't find any info on what it COULD be.
4T          = I think I got this right, though I don't know what it means.

I'm especially stumped on the last two bits of info on the tag.  I would
deeply appreciate any info you might be able to provide, or suggestions on
who might be able to help.

An additional note: If you are able to respond, please title the subject
something like "Scott--  Tag info" or the like.  I'm on two large lists,
and I would REALLY hate to miss your response!

Thanks in advance!

Scott Martindale
smardale@airmail.net
1965 442 Holiday Coupe
1965 442 Convertible

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:53:37 -0300
Subject: looking for manifold

I'm looking for a W-35 single outlet exhaust manifold, RIGHT side, for a 455.
If you can help I would appreciate it.
THANKS
Rick
yorcoy@aol.com

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 19:52:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Valves

Erik Nowacki wrote:

...They claim that you can get either hardened valve seats or hardened
valves you  don't need both to be hardened....

          Proving once again you shouldn't believe everything you
          read. :)

          Let's think about this for a second.  The cast iron head is
          already softer than the stock valve, soooo....it would seem
          to me that a hardened _valve_ would just compound the
          problem of valve seat regression (the failure mode is that
          the valve seat gets hammered up into the head, generally
          wreaking havoc with the valvetrain).  I don't see how a
          hardened _valve_ can solve the problem.  A hardened _valve
          seat_, however, clearly prevents this valve seat regression.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30




------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 20:40:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation wanted

"History dictates that they [Italians] have never been a strong military
force.  I think their little foray into armed conflict is more of an
anomoly
than anything else.  The French have a much longer military history"

Before this sort of non-Olds thing gets too outta hand I'd like to throw
in a couple of bits, FWIW.

What about that whole Roman Empire thing?  I'd think they'd have to be
pretty capable militarily to carry on like that.  And I wouldn't consider
it a "little foray" either.  After all, Western Civilization appears to be
more or less built on the remains of that "anomoly".

I'm sure everyone else will point this out but, anyway.



         Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 19:35:12 -0300
Subject: Rear Wing

  All the repro wings ive seen look o.k., If you put an original beside
a repro they look a little different.  the repro's are a little more
fatter looking and they are hollow not solid.  They wont fit the factory
type hole layout and they need a little work to get them to lay flat once
they are lined up.  95% of most people could not tell the difference between
the two once installed.  Just dont let it hang off the back, they look
terrible when they are done like that (Aint that Right DW). The originals are
hard too find.  I have been looking for one for my W30 for a couple of
months and so far have had no luck.

Mike
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 Convt

-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi all,
   I am interested in some feedback on rear wings sold by Brothers
and or Year One. I am interested in purchasing a rear wing and wanted
some feed back from anybody who has purchased one of these wings. I have
been told that the one sold by Brothers Automotive is pretty close to
the originals. Please respond with any feedback.

Thanks,
Tom Williams
70-W31
OCA ª 28886

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 20:34:05 -0300
Subject: Re: The new guy .....

At 04:50 PM 4/29/97 -0300, TURBO38@aol.com wrote:
>hey new guy, go easy on the olds folks. technology has come a long way since
>the 70's. there is no way a 70 442 can compete with a new z28 for all out
>performance, however , for quarter mile times only i've laid down many a Z28
>in a 70 442.

Really..... This is assuming stock v. stock....

 the handling ,braking and fuel economy is what make the new cars
>easier to live with.

275-305 hp stock with mpg's in the high 20's on freeway trips sure are a
nice mix....

> if you want to pick on a new car i have a 89 20th anniv.
>turbo trans am that will wax that Z28 even when you get your nitrous set up
>and i'm in Texas too.

Why in the hell do you have to be an ass and pick on a fellow F-body owner?
Sure it will stock v.stock, it has the awesome 3.8 Buick Turbo V6. Damn
lighten up...
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio  F-body list since 5/95
93 Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, GU5, PEG2, TFX cat-back, Mobil 1(eng. & diff.),
Fram HP-4 oil filter,  Firehawk SVX tires
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
coming soon: SLP headers, 150 Nitrous kit and low 12 second e.t's
80 Olds 4-4-2 W-30: show car... http://www.442.com/labay.html


------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª638
********************************
