To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #666


oldsmobile-digest            Friday, 9 May 1997         Volume 01 : Number 666

Re: GTO means...Wrong, but
FS: '87 442 $12K, 2300miles

Re: Drive to work
Bill's And Ross' Cars (WAS Re: Volunteerism?)
Re: Ideal Q-jet
Re: Quad-4 Exhaust
Desperately Need Parts!
Re: 1964 V.C. Hood Letters - A Challenge!
Right remote mirror
Re: Quad-4 Exhaust
REOlds Museum
Olds Firenza
Re: Desperately Need Parts!
RE: REOlds Museum
Engine Hoist
Re: Olds Firenza
Convertible top
Re: Quad-4 Exhaust
RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Re: "73 442
Re: 1965 425ci cam
RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Electrical problems
Re: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.
Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut
Re: Rear-end
RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Re: 1964 V.C. Hood Letters - A Challenge!
Re: Bill's And Ross' Cars (WAS Re: Volunteerism?)
Re: Olds Firenza
Re: New England get together
Re: Rockit ran again
Re: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.
Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham
Re: Abandoned Tows, was Re: Rockit ran again
NOS Door Edge Guards For Sale (5/8)
Re: Quad-4 Exhaust
Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut
Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)
Re: Electrical problems
64 98 parts needed
NOS Transmission Cables For Sale (5/9)
A/C question/found a Ram Air Hood
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Thursday at the Salvage Lot (The ongoing saga...)
Re: A/C question/found a Ram Air Hood
Celebrity Olds
Re: Charley's Salvage Lot
Re: A/C question/found a Ram Air Hood
AOL MEMBERS PLEASE READ!!!!!!!
Re: Charley's Salvage Lot
Re: A/C question
Wanted: 66 Cutlass rear bumper
SUSPENSION 73 Delta 88

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 07:44:45 -0300
Subject: Re: GTO means...Wrong, but

Ok I guess I'll have to set you all straight on this one.

GTO means Greatly Trailing Oldsmobiles.  Ok that is that! :-)

I couldn't resist!

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: Frank Iezzi <fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 09:03:27 -0300
Subject: FS: '87 442 $12K, 2300miles

Hello all,
A local car wholesaler has the following for sale.  I don't him and
don't make anything from the sale, yada, yada, yada:
1987 442 - loaded,
EXCEPT T-tops,
gray inside/out,
yes 2300 miles - $12,000 firm
Car is in central Ohio
E-mail me privately at fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us for more info
OR call RICH @ 1-800-344-7629 (serious inquiries only) to set up an appt
I haven't seen the car...
Have a good weekend,
Frank Iezzi

------------------------------

From: Lon Shook <LON@mssmtpgate.housing.umich.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 10:16:20 -0300
Subject:

 unsubscribe oldsmobile Lon Shook
<LON@mssmtpgate.housing.umich.edu>

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:03:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Drive to work

Jason Labay wrote:

> >Well my car ran peppier today after the exhaust upgrade.  I did my
> >infamous 0-60 test again.  Before today I was doing it in 16 seconds.
> >Today I got around 13 seconds.  That's cool.
>
> Are you sure it is 13 seconds? I think it should be a bit faster for a 442.
> For reference my 80 442 does it in 8.9 and the 93 Z does it in 5.3  What
> kind of exhaust did you get?

I am sorry for the confusion.  I guess I didn't specify that the car is
an 1982
Delta Royale Brougham.  I wouldn't expect is to get to 60mph in 8.9
seconds,
however, I would love it if it did!  Anyway the method I use for timing
is very
crude since I count 1001, 1002, 1003, 1004.... with one eyeball on the
speedo
and the other watching the road.  I really don't accurately know how
long it takes.
I mainly was pointing out I got better time with a new monolithic
converter and
new muffler.  It made enough of a difference for me to notice.

Thanks,

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 09:18:53 -0300
Subject: Bill's And Ross' Cars (WAS Re: Volunteerism?)

>   This "volunteerism" was already established here
> >before the President even called out for it.  (Maybe he owns an Olds,
> >and was on this thread when he got the idea.)
>
> Sorry, president bill's ride is a `66 or so m*stang ragtop....Bet a few of
> you wished you knew that before election day.  :)    At least he's somewhat
> of a car guy.

For the record, he owns a '67 M*st*ng ragtop.  I read an article about it
a few years ago.  It's currently sitting in some sort of museum.  As I recall,
the article stated the car only has a 6 cylinder (a 200?), and that the
last resto job was rather, err, "liberal" with the Bondo :)

I also seem to recall the Prez saying something at some rally about how he
used to own an El Camino, with Astro Turf as a bedliner.

>
> ...And I believe I saw perot once on 60 minuits pulling up to the office in
> what appeared to be a 90-something delta 88.

H. Ross also owns the *very* first Saturn to roll offf the ass'y line.
He was one of the folks that helped GM start the division.  It currently sits
in his *office*.

> No political intent, just a couple of fun facts that were rattling around in
> my head.

We should start a thread on Celebrities and Their Cars; of course limiting
ourselves to those celebs who own(ed) Oldses :)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 09:57:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Ideal Q-jet

In a message dated 97-05-07 00:48:18 EDT, you write:

<< Hi everyone,

         Just thought this would be good to give everyone some ideas about
 were to start when doing a Q-jet. Yes most factory settings were on the lean
 side for emissions and such, but were pretty good base starting points.
 First the idle mixture settings. Small blocks should use a base starting
 point of 4 turns out from a light seat. Then using a vacuum gauge set for
 the highest vacuum reading. That is exactly where you want them for throttle
 response and drivability. Big blocks use the same technic but start a 6
 turns on each. Yoiu should NEVER remove or mess with the primary metering
 rods. Use the primary jets to adjust mixture. 68-69 should be used in a
 stock small block. 70's are a good starting point for stock big blocks and
 hotter small blocks. 74's are what you want to have for a healthy big block.
 Now on to the secondary setup. AU or AX are good in small blocks all the way
 up to a stock big block. >>

Hmmm... this is interesting.  my carb has 76's for the primaries (as I
remember from two weeks ago), 51v (as I remember it from then also) for the
primary needles, and CV's for the secondary needles.  Also, any time I've
done anything to it, the idle screws are only out about 2 1/2 (maybe 3) turns
at most.

I'll have to check and make sure of these numbers (I'm pretty sure of them,
tho), and maybe start hunting around for some needles, and jets.

I suppose if I have smaller primaries, the idle mixture may need to be
richened then, correct?

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 11:21:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Quad-4 Exhaust

On  7 May 97 at 23:05, Greg Yonge wrote:

> Anyone know of a good performance boosting exhaust setup for my '92
> Achieva SC? (It's the H.O. Quad-4 185hp)

I think I have the info at home from the "Rocketparts Achieva"
project on an SCX, but it should be the same for yours.  It involved
replacing the cat with one from a 454SS truck (I'd go the cheaper
route and get a Walker lo-restriction) and 2 Borla mufflers with a
custom Y-pipe.  There was a guy here last year with a SCX and 2
Flowmasters (Custom Y-Pipe) and he said it made a difference at the
drag strip.

On my 442 (with a single muffler), the aftermarket books I saw all
had a "except H.O." on Quad4 single muffler exhausts.  There were
plenty of dual muffler set-ups for the H.O.  I finally went with a
factory W-41 muffler and the Walker cat.  The car has a
seat-of-the-pants improvement from this.

I would NOT recommend the W-41 Achieva SCX exhaust for your car (at
least the '93).  IMHO there is a lot of restriction in comparison
with my 442.  If you want, I can try and find the sheet from
RocketParts and send it to you.  Let me know.

Mike
'91 W-40 442
'93 W-41 SCX

------------------------------

From: AWalker564@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 11:56:43 -0300
Subject: Desperately Need Parts!

Anyone with any knowledge of where we might be able be able to get body parts
for a 1970 olds delta 88 convertible (two-door will also work) PLEASE contact
us. We have called every junkyard in the U.S. that we could find without
luck.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 12:47:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 1964 V.C. Hood Letters - A Challenge!

Jim; Thanks for your reply. Give Vic a mail, he will give you a deal on the
hood letters, he gave me one. I mailed you before on tires, what size do
you run front and back?
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 13:30:58 -0300
Subject: Right remote mirror

First I would like to thank those that provided me with info on how to
remove the right hand remote mirror for a g-body Cutlass.  I never would
have figured out to lower the window.

Now I have a question since I pulled this. I undid the screws that hold
the pedestal to the egg shaped part and now  after I put it back together
it seems the mirror is a little loose.  It wobbles around, and is not
"tight".  Did I just screw this up or can something be done to fix this?

I also pulled the stainless trim for the top of the door.  Needed to lower
the window for that also.  It's a pain in the A** when the window is
lowered and power.  Have to stick your hand way down in the door to unbolt
it from the mechanism because you can't roll it up.

Thanks
,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:00:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Quad-4 Exhaust

At 11:05 PM 5/7/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Anyone know of a good performance boosting exhaust setup for my '92
Achieva SC? (It's the H.O. Quad-4 185hp)
>
Well it's up to you on the mufflers, loud or quiet, prob quiet go with
borla or dynomax, and a high flow cat for sure. also try to get a bigger
pipe, like 2.25 or 2.5 in to get some more performance from it. it's all up
to what you can afford, i'm sure a good muffler shop can bend you 2.5 in
pipe if you were will to pay a little. I have 2.5 in pipe on my Quad 4 with
a hollow cat, and it made a tremendous difference. Just think about all the
flow you have coming out of those 2 exhaust valves, it a lot more than any
V8 outa 4 cyl. keep us posted

Jeff

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:30:17 -0300
Subject: REOlds Museum

Hi just got back from the one and only museum (REO) Some great cars and
history.  The gift shop had some things that might be of interest to some of
you.  They had the Aurora pacecar Die cast for 30.00  limited production of
2500  They also had the 69 die cast of 442 and Hurst for 40.00.  Some neet
black and white Dr. Olds posters 4 for 40.00 - gonna get some.  perfect for
framing.

If you come to Lansing this summer you will have to go there.  A few days it
will be open for free.  If anyone is interested let me know I'll try to help
you out.  Or at least give you the museums ª.

Looking forward to seeing you this summer

Doug
81 cutlass 350
almost bought the 70

Lansing

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 16:03:32 -0300
Subject: Olds Firenza

Does anybody out there know anything about Olds Firenza's?  My
brother-in-law is considering the purchase of an '86 model (I think), and
would like some info on problem areas, things to look out for, etc.  The
car has 93,000 miles on it, new battery, starter, alternator, and the
timing belt (or is it a chain?) was recently replaced.  The current owner
says the engine will "kind of cut out for a second while you drivin' it",
like a momentary stall, I'm guessing.

There are a few things I'd like to know before we go look at it.  What
size is the 4 cylinder engine in this car?  Is it carburated or fuel
injected?  Does anybody have any specific ideas on the stalling thing?
I'm thinking something with fuel delivery (clogged filter?).

The fella is only asking $100 for the car, and provided the body and
interior aren't trashed, I might even buy it myself if the bro-in-law
decides not to.

Thanks!


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com


------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:59:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Desperately Need Parts!

At 11:56 AM 5/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Anyone with any knowledge of where we might be able be able to get body parts
>for a 1970 olds delta 88 convertible (two-door will also work) PLEASE contact
>us. We have called every junkyard in the U.S. that we could find without
>luck.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
>

  You may want to try Ron Memmer.  He deals only in Olds parts.  Good chance
he would have what your looking for.  His phone is  219-583-9763.  Tell him
I sent you.

  Glenn Connors
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 16:18:51 -0300
Subject: RE: REOlds Museum

Wow!! $40.00 each for the Ertl 442 and Hurst. I can get them both for that
price. Seems a bit opportunistic, even for a museum.

Jim Rabideau
70 W30

- ----------
From:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca[SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent:  Thursday, May 08, 1997 2:12 PM
To:  Rabid
Subject:  REOlds Museum

Hi just got back from the one and only museum (REO) Some great cars and
history.  The gift shop had some things that might be of interest to some of
you.  They had the Aurora pacecar Die cast for 30.00  limited production of
2500  They also had the 69 die cast of 442 and Hurst for 40.00.  Some neet
black and white Dr. Olds posters 4 for 40.00 - gonna get some.  perfect for
framing.

If you come to Lansing this summer you will have to go there.  A few days it
will be open for free.  If anyone is interested let me know I'll try to help
you out.  Or at least give you the museums ª.

Looking forward to seeing you this summer

Doug
81 cutlass 350
almost bought the 70

Lansing

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:00:38 -0300
Subject: Engine Hoist

Hi all,
I am in the market for an engine hoist.  Unfortunately I don't have
unlimited garage space and I don't want a fully assembled engine hoist
taking up room and collecting dust.  I would like one that can be easily
disassembled or folds up into a corner.  Does anyone have any
recommendations of where I should look or who to call?  I checked a recent
Summit catalog and saw their fold up hoist, but I'm curious if anyone has
any info on a Blubird model or similar one that comes apart.  I thought I
had info on one of these in a magazine but either can't find it or it was a
model that folded up.
Thanks in advance for any advice, recommendations, info, insight, etc,
etc,.....


Approx 105 days until "The Event"


Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com
or
csmetana@disc.sony.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one ia s parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 16:48:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Firenza

At 04:03 PM 5/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Does anybody out there know anything about Olds Firenza's?  My
>brother-in-law is considering the purchase of an '86 model (I think), and
>would like some info on problem areas, things to look out for, etc.

My father owned two, one was an '85, the other an '87.  The '85 is still in
the family and is owned by my brother who lives in southern California.
He's got well over 100,000 miles on it and uses it as a daily beater to and
from work.  It's had it's share of problems (the most prevalent seeming to
be a need for new brakes way too often), but he's been basically happy
enough with it to hold onto it.

The '87 was one of those hatchback models, and it _always_, no matter what
anybody, dealer included, tried to do, would collect water in the rear
compartment after a rain.  That one was kept for only about two years
before being gotten rid of.

For $100, you can hardly go wrong.  What is your brother-in-law planning to
do with it?  For $100, he shouldn't expect reliable transportation.  If
that's what he gets, he'll be lucky.  If he wants a fixer-upper, why not.
If he gets it home and finds it to be too much to trouble or cost to bother
fixing up, he won't be out that much and could probably sell it for close
to what he paid.



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

From: chris burge <cburge@dekab.dc.peachnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:24:23 -0300
Subject: Convertible top

I have a small tare in the rear near the window. How can I
repair this.
 Are there repair kits?

  Thanks
72 Cutlas Supreme

------------------------------

From: "corey" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:35:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Quad-4 Exhaust

An Olds racing Achica SCX that i saw had a great Borla stainless steel
system on it.  You might check them out.  Although stainless is pretty $$.
Corey
dayc@ix.netcom.com

1970 Olds Cutlass S
1968 Olds Delta 88
1985 Olds Cutlass Cierra

- ----------
> From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Quad-4 Exhaust
> Date: Thursday, May 08, 1997 11:00 AM
>
> At 11:05 PM 5/7/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Anyone know of a good performance boosting exhaust setup for my '92
> Achieva SC? (It's the H.O. Quad-4 185hp)
> >
> Well it's up to you on the mufflers, loud or quiet, prob quiet go with
> borla or dynomax, and a high flow cat for sure. also try to get a bigger
> pipe, like 2.25 or 2.5 in to get some more performance from it. it's all
up
> to what you can afford, i'm sure a good muffler shop can bend you 2.5 in
> pipe if you were will to pay a little. I have 2.5 in pipe on my Quad 4
with
> a hollow cat, and it made a tremendous difference. Just think about all
the
> flow you have coming out of those 2 exhaust valves, it a lot more than
any
> V8 outa 4 cyl. keep us posted
>
> Jeff
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:58:28 -0300
Subject: RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

Hi all,

I just determined my MPG today and was surprised that it was only
13.  This is not too far from the 10 MPG that I get with my 68 442.
Anyone like to hazard a guess?

Later..

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: "Drew K. Bengert" <dk.bengert@sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:10:00 -0300
Subject: Re: "73 442

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> Everyone,
>
> In trying to get together a group of cars for our Olds dealer's
> celebration of that special 100th Anniversary, I contacted a fellow who
> has a lovely '73 442.  It seems that he will not only display it, but he
> wants to sell it.  I'd be interested in knowing a little about these
> cars as he wants $2200 for it.
>
> The car has been repainted a dark metallic brown w/correct white
> stripes, beige vinyl top, & beige interior.  The top is a couple of
> years old, but the vinyl "chrome" is missing around the quarter
> windows.  There is some rust bubbling through at the base of the quarter
> windows just below the vinyl top - nothing really serious, but some.
> The interior has had the seat recovered in a 2-tone vinyl, but the rest
> is very nice & original.  The car has 75,000 mi on it.  There was no key
> left at the house, & so I couldn't look at the engine, hear it run, or
> drive it.
>
> I'm supposing a 350 4-barrel is under the hood.  It is equipped w/AM/FM
> stereo, rear speakers, PS, PDB, AT on console, Rally II wheels, AC, &
> little else.  There are no rally gauges, tilt wheel, electric windows,
> or seat.
>
> Would accessories be difficult to find?  It supposedly runs nicely & I
> have seen it driven around some.  Would $2200 seem ok in light of the
> recovered seats, some rust at the edge of the quarter windows/vinyl
> roof, & only mildly accessorized?
>
> I know where a '73 H/O is resting in a salvage yard w/all the pieces to
> make it a H/O.  Is this feasable?  Would I just be ruining a nice 442?
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama



I own a 73 442 with a 455, and I can tell you that I think these 442's
are some of the nicest built.

I'd pay that and more if it is in good shape, but thats just me.

If I can help out let me know.

Drew Bengert
Toronto, Canada

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:22:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 1965 425ci cam

In a message dated 97-05-06 04:05:46 EDT, you write:

>
>  Wow, frighteningly close.  Ferris is out right now, and I haven't the
>  slightest idea (and my name is pronounced a bit differently, but...)
Seeing
>  as the list is deathly quiet, I feel a bit safer being a bandwidth hog and
>  replying this way :)
>
>
>
>               Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>               500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>               Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:37:11 -0300
Subject: RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

On Thu, 8 May 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I just determined my MPG today and was surprised that it was only
> 13.  This is not too far from the 10 MPG that I get with my 68 442.
> Anyone like to hazard a guess?
Which Gallons?  (BTW, in winter here I'd love to see double digitsd)

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:51:31 -0300
Subject: RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

On Thu, 8 May 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I just determined my MPG today and was surprised that it was only
> 13.  This is not too far from the 10 MPG that I get with my 68 442.
> Anyone like to hazard a guess?
>

Sorry I haven't been following this too closely, but you have the 305 in
that right?  And is that 13mpg highway or stop and go?

I get about 15 mpg in my 307 Cutlass, and that's delivering pizzas.
Constantly stop and go, and I'm pretty heavy on the gas between those stop
signs.

When I went to Atlanta last summer I kept track of milage and gas.  I
averaged about 23 mpg on the highway doing between 70-75mph, fully loaded
with the air conditioning on! Not that bad.

So 13mpg sounds right if its local driving.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:25:43 -0300
Subject: Electrical problems

Ok,here goes:

I'm having trouble with my main ignition wire smoking, or the original
resistor-type ends of it.  I replaced most of the resistor section with
standard wire ( I know, 12 volts will burn out my points, but that doesn't
concern me right now).  Somehow, the yellow ignition bypass wire coming
from the starter solenoid is the cause of my mischief.  If I disconnect
this wire, I have no trouble from the ignition wire.  The wire will begin
to smoke with 3 seconds of live ignition power.

     I got from my assembly manual that the purple wire went to the 'S'
post, and the yellow wire to the 'R' post on the solenoid.  But, this is
for the L6 engine, as the manual didn't display the starter wiring for a
V8.  Should it be the same for L6 and V8?  Could this be a problem with my
starter?  It is a '66 unit from a 425, could the 'R' and 'S' posts be
different from '66 to '67?

     I also know that since i have 12 volts to my coil that the yellow wire
isn't necessary, I just want to know what is causing trouble.

Thanks....

Paul Rousseau

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:44:18 -0300
Subject: Re: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.

i did a basic rebuild w/a kit. adjusted float,etc. i may have made a mistake
but don't think so.there was a major improvement after rebuild....would
appreciate any further suggestions....thanks....DJV442@AOL.COM(DAN)

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:54:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut

On Mon, 5 May 1997, Matthew Mayer wrote:

> I finally got my flare nut wrenched today.  Figured I would attack my
> fuel filter.  I liquid wrenched it and let it sit, but it still wouldn't
> budge.  I don't want toi try anymore as I think I am on the verge of
> permanently screwing up the nut.   anyone have any other ideas/tips on
> how to get that sucker loose??  (I know, spend the $25 and have a REAl
> mecahnic do it....but that's too easy...)

    Those things do get tight.   I've had some luck using a flare-nut
crow's foot wrench instead - they seem to grip a little tighter than a
regular flare wrench.   It's too bad this is one place where you can't use
the best nut/bolt loosener of all - HEAT.

    Most cars I've come across usually have Vice-Grip or pipe wrench teeth
marks on the flare nut, so you wouldn't be the first to do it.   ;^)

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:07:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear-end

On Tue, 6 May 1997, Pat McDermott wrote:

> Last week there were posts about rear-end ratios that got me thinking. I
> had no idea what gears were in my car. So today I had a little free time
> and thought, I'll put the car on stands, spin the drive-shaft 10 times
> and count how many times the tires turn, right? Well that's exactly what

    I always did it as how many turns of the driveshaft it takes to spin
the rear tires one revolution.

> pulled the cover off. What I saw was a Ring gear w/41 teeth and a Drive
> pinion w/32 teeth. I didn't count the teeth on the Differential gears

    Methinks you counted wrong.   On the ring gear you should see stamped
a number like "41:12".   Thus, the ratio is 41/12, which is 3.42:1.

> its red, then I ordered two gaskets because I don't know what Axle I
> have(HELP).

    I've had Red RVT goop on my rear end cover for 2 years without any
leaks, so I wouldn't worry about it.  You've probably got a 12-bolt
Oldsmobile rear ("Type O") in there now....  count the cover bolts!

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:21:58 -0300
Subject: RE: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

OL>I just determined my MPG today and was surprised that it was only
OL>13.  This is not too far from the 10 MPG that I get with my 68 442.
OL>Anyone like to hazard a guess?
OL>Chris Sparks

That seems awfully low. The '72 442 I use to have got 13-14 in stop and
go traffic. My 4400 lb. truck gets 16-17 city and 18-19.5 highway 70
mph. And I've got a heavy foot.
When the tranny went out in the 442 I drove my wifes Grand am(3100v6
auto). It got 20 mpg with both of us driving it and it gets 25-26 with
just her driving! Not to make a 442 sound bad but that Grand am could
very easily blow away that '72 442 in the 1/4 mile.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:27:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 1964 V.C. Hood Letters - A Challenge!

Hope I can help______

  I have a 64 D88 that I intend on parting out. I took off the hood letters
yesterday to check them out and to match them with some I had that were out
of packages. Turns out I have three NOS letters plus a hood molding for the
64 Vista Cruiser. The hood molding is a good used piece.  I forgot to bring
home my note from the warehouse so I don't know which three letters I have
 but will post tomorrow which ones I have. For your info guys all 1964's used
the same hood letters.
   Jim, I do have that complete set of so so used letters off that hood plus
a hood molding for the Vista plus the three NOS letters send me an e-mail
privately and we will discuss them


Everett OCA ª1961     ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:30:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Bill's And Ross' Cars (WAS Re: Volunteerism?)

On Thu, 8 May 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> We should start a thread on Celebrities and Their Cars; of course limiting
> ourselves to those celebs who own(ed) Oldses :)

OK!  Did you know that newsman/commentator Paul Harvey was an owner of one
of the first Toronados?  As was, I believe, one of the Rockefellers?

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:29:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds Firenza

On Thu, 8 May 1997, Dave Paulison wrote:

> Does anybody out there know anything about Olds Firenza's?  My
> brother-in-law is considering the purchase of an '86 model (I think), and
> would like some info on problem areas, things to look out for, etc.  The
> car has 93,000 miles on it, new battery, starter, alternator, and the
> timing belt (or is it a chain?) was recently replaced.  The current owner
> says the engine will "kind of cut out for a second while you drivin' it",
> like a momentary stall, I'm guessing.

    I had a '82 Hatchback, 1.8l 4-speed.   Damm thing ran forever, even
kept up with Escort GT's at 200k with no internal engine work.   Finally
had to dispose of it at 240k miles when the steering rack sheared off the
firewall and the rear suspension was about to fall out due to rust.

> There are a few things I'd like to know before we go look at it.  What
> size is the 4 cylinder engine in this car?  Is it carburated or fuel
> injected?  Does anybody have any specific ideas on the stalling thing?
> I'm thinking something with fuel delivery (clogged filter?).

   I belive there are two 4 cylinder motors for that car, a 1.8/2.0 litre
OHC (overhead cam) motor, and a conventional pushrod 1.8/2.0 motor.  The
motors are totally different, and the pushrod motor is considered to be
somewhat stronger.  Both are fuel injected.  Cutting out could be caused
by a bad sensor, clogged fuel filter or a intermittent connection.

> Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
> dpauliso@juno.com

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:28:32 -0300
Subject: Re: New England get together

No there is no meeting or show this weekend at Berijik Olds
Its  June 1st

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:32:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Rockit ran again

OL>the cops come and give it a nice orange sticker (usually put right
OL>on the front of the drivers window, and as an added bonus they are almost
OL>impossible to remove).
OL>                                             Scott
OL>                                 1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98


If there like the stickers they use around here. A soaking wet towel
laid over the sticker for an hour or so will soften the glue and it will
pell right off.

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:39:24 -0300
Subject: Re: HESITATION WHEN ACCELERATING/75 350/4 BBL.

OL>>I HAVE A 75 OLDS CUTLASS S W/350/4 BBL.CAR HAS LOW MILEAGE,RUNS SUPER
EXCEPT OL>>FOR A HESITATION AROUND 2000RPM...WILL RUN SMOOTH UP TO THIS POINT
AND BEYOND OL>>2500RPM.

OL>All I can think of offhand is to change the points if you haven't since the
OL>problem started.  A rebuilt points-distributor can be had for around $40.
OL>Rebuilt HEIs run about $90 I think.

OL>Anyone else have any ideas?

OL>Greg Pruett
OL>`72 Vista-Cruiser
OL>`67 Cutlass Supreme

Wouldn't a '75 already have an HEI? Is the float level correct? Is this
when then secondaries open? I'd look at the carb. Is there any smoke
coming from the exhaust when this happens?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:29:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

Barnacle Bill wrote:

> Sorry I haven't been following this too closely, but you have the 305 in
> that right?  And is that 13mpg highway or stop and go?

I have the 307 and my driving is part highway/part stop and go.

> I get about 15 mpg in my 307 Cutlass, and that's delivering pizzas.
> Constantly stop and go, and I'm pretty heavy on the gas between those stop
> signs.

Yeah me too.  I seem to have a lead foot!

> When I went to Atlanta last summer I kept track of milage and gas.  I
> averaged about 23 mpg on the highway doing between 70-75mph, fully loaded
> with the air conditioning on! Not that bad.
>
> So 13mpg sounds right if its local driving.

Ok then.  I won't worry too much about that then.

Chris

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:27:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 1982 Delta Royale Brougham

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>
> On Thu, 8 May 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I just determined my MPG today and was surprised that it was only
> > 13.  This is not too far from the 10 MPG that I get with my 68 442.
> > Anyone like to hazard a guess?
> Which Gallons?  (BTW, in winter here I'd love to see double digitsd)

Sorry about that.  US gallons..

Chris

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:28:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Abandoned Tows, was Re: Rockit ran again

OL>This is how I got my 75 H/O. It was left abandoned behind a garage and the
OL>cops had it towed and the owners never came after it. The 72 Cutlass
Supreme OL>setting down at the junkyard now was the same way, abandoned and
the owner OL>never claimed it. In fact we get in some real nice cars that for
usually OL>some very fixable reason (tranny gone, blown radiator, etc. ) are
not OL>claimed by their owners. OL>- - - - - - - - - - - OL>Jason Labay
(z28cfi@gwis.com) OL>1993 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 OL>1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Calais 4-4-2 W-30 OL>1975 Hurst/Olds

How does one find out about these cars? Are they availible to the
general public?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:59:23 -0300
Subject: NOS Door Edge Guards For Sale (5/8)

I have the following Oldsmobile Door Edge Guards which I would like to
sell:

NOS Door Edge Guard set for 1971 to 1975 88 and 98 2 door.  Part number
983262.  Both formed stainless guards in what's left of the original
packaging.  $16.00, including shipping to any address in North America.

Partial NOS Door Edge Guard set for 1975 98 4 door.  Part number 982013.
Only the two formed stainless guards for the rear doors are left in
what's left of the original packaging.  $12.00, including shipping to
any address in North America.

NOS Door Edge Guard set for 1973 to 1975 A-Body (Cutlass) 2 door.  Part
number 983391.  Both formed stainless guards in what's left of the
original packaging.  $16.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

NOS Door Edge Guard set for 1976 and 1977 A-Body (Cutlass) 2 door.  Part
number 994879.  Both formed stainless guards in what's left of the
original packaging.  $16.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

NOS Door Edge Guard set for 1973 to 1977 A-Body (Cutlass) 4 door.  Part
number 983392.  Four formed stainless guards in what's left of the
original packaging.  $20.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

Unidentified NOS Door Edge Guard set for an Oldsmobile 4 door.  Part
number 982627.  Four formed stainless guards in what's left of the
original packaging.  $12.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

(5/8/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
any of these items, or if you would like additional information about
them.  Thank you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:57:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Quad-4 Exhaust

> On  7 May 97 at 23:05, Greg Yonge wrote:
>
> > Anyone know of a good performance boosting exhaust setup for my '92
> > Achieva SC? (It's the H.O. Quad-4 185hp)

I put a Dynomax CAT back system on mine, it's a little loud but I really
like it.  Got it from Summit Racing.

Jeff'91 Quad 442 W-41

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:11:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut

>
>    Those things do get tight.   I've had some luck using a flare-nut
>crow's foot wrench instead - they seem to grip a little tighter than a
>regular flare wrench.   It's too bad this is one place where you can't use
>the best nut/bolt loosener of all - HEAT.
>
>    Most cars I've come across usually have Vice-Grip or pipe wrench teeth
>marks on the flare nut, so you wouldn't be the first to do it.   ;^)

Use ~only~ as a last resort, and be ~super~ careful doing so.  A friend of
mine changed his Ranger's filter a few years ago.  Started it up, and went
in the house.  When he got back outside (not sure how long he'd taken) the
truck was engulfed in flames.  Total loss.  I got to be the determiner of
the fire.  Knowing what he'd just finished, I examined the remnants of his
fuel lines.  Found a damaged flare nut fitting (as I'd suspected)  He'd used
a vise grip to change it, and squeezed it too tight.  The round nut had
become ovalled out, and as a result, no matter how tight he turned it, it
would never seal (Of course it's only a matter of intelligence to ~check~
for leaks, but I guess he was severely lacking that day.

For what it's worth, about a year later in that very same driveway, the
kid's two brother's were working on their Pontiac Tempest -- The first
musclecar I ever got to play with...  The eldest brother had just put an
engine and tranny in, had it all rebuilt, etc.  Switched from the three
speed to an auto (????:) Didn't have any linkages hooked up, but decided to
start it and break in the motor.  The middle brother (behind the wheel)
expressed his concern in making sure it was out of gear.  "Yup, it's in
nuetral."  So, they hotwire everything under the hood (cuz the interior
isn't an existing product at this point) and the car fires to life. And then
procedes to launch foreward like they'd expect it to do at the track.  Right
into the small shed blocking the far end of the driveway -- the only large
item between the driveway and a cliff  (With many houses below!)  So here's
the Tempest running full throttle, no shift linkage, and no brakes, with a
driver who can do little more than hang on.  After pushing the shed's wall
in about a foot, someone managed to get under the hood and disconnect the
coil, and the trauma was over.  Of course you know the next thing said:  "I
thought you said it wasn't in gear!!!"  "Well, I pushed it around, and it
moved just fine.  It wouldn't move if it was in gear!"
     --One shed away from Darwins next winners!!  :)  Good kids, but...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: <eekstrom@coris.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:25:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New List)

     Jim,

     Do you still have some of the 72 Auto Trans Console Indicators left.
     My friend did order one.  If so, I'll send the $27 check after you
     confirm you have at least one left.

                Ed Ekstrom
                '72 Cutlass


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Oldsmobile Parts For Sale (New
List) Author:  James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net> at ~WLBRK03 Date:
4/4/97 6:26 PM


<snip>

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  Taking orders for the
reproduction 70-72 Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicator. They're here.
Looks Great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  Let us know if your interested.

Jim Chermack
'70 SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869



------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:31:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical problems

At 09:25 PM 5/8/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Ok,here goes:
>
>I'm having trouble with my main ignition wire smoking, or the original
>resistor-type ends of it.  I replaced most of the resistor section with
>standard wire ( I know, 12 volts will burn out my points, but that doesn't
>concern me right now).  Somehow, the yellow ignition bypass wire coming
>from the starter solenoid is the cause of my mischief.  If I disconnect
>this wire, I have no trouble from the ignition wire.  The wire will begin
>to smoke with 3 seconds of live ignition power.
>
>     I got from my assembly manual that the purple wire went to the 'S'
>post, and the yellow wire to the 'R' post on the solenoid.  But, this is
>for the L6 engine, as the manual didn't display the starter wiring for a
>V8.  Should it be the same for L6 and V8?  Could this be a problem with my
>starter?  It is a '66 unit from a 425, could the 'R' and 'S' posts be
>different from '66 to '67?
>
>     I also know that since i have 12 volts to my coil that the yellow wire
>isn't necessary, I just want to know what is causing trouble.
>
>Thanks....
>
>Paul Rousseau
>

Paul

        Yes they are the same. Yellow to the run side and the purple to the
start side.
You might want to check that solenoid. Also are the battey cables good?

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:37:44 -0300
Subject: 64 98 parts needed

>
>  I have a 64 D88 that I intend on parting out. I took off the hood letters
>yesterday to check them out and to match them with some I had that were out
>of packages. Turns out I have three NOS letters plus a hood molding for the
>64 Vista Cruiser. The hood molding is a good used piece.  I forgot to bring
>home my note from the warehouse so I don't know which three letters I have
> but will post tomorrow which ones I have. For your info guys all 1964's used
>the same hood letters.

The salvage lot I spend ~entirely~ too much of my free time (and $$$) at has
a 64 Olds Ninety Eight on a trailer, going down to one of the lot owner's
buddies in Harlowtown, MT.  Really neat car.  Not bad condition.  The
driver's rear door glass is broken out, and the driver's side taillight is
gone, due to body damage in that corner.  Does anyone know if the D88 and 98
are similar bodywise?  If so, Everett, does yours have these parts & how
much would you need for 'em?  Also need the front fender emblem on the pass
side -- Whatever that big emblem was :)

As always, thanks for any info....



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:40:40 -0300
Subject: NOS Transmission Cables For Sale (5/9)

I have the following Oldsmobile related items which I would like to
sell:

NOS in original packaging shift lever to transmission cable for 1969
F-85 with console shift, and 1969 and 1970 Delta 88 with console shift.
Part number 402989.  $25.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.

NOS in original packaging transmission detent control cable for 1973 and
1974 A-body (Cutlass) cars with Turbo Hydra-Matic 350.  Part number
1242443.  $10.00, including shipping to any address in North America.

(5/9/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:40:17 -0300
Subject: A/C question/found a Ram Air Hood

Hi all,

I have a problem with the A/C on my 70 SX, it work fine the problem is
when you move the control to vent, heat or defrost the compressor cluch
will not release until I turn off the switch.  Any one have any Ideas
what might be causing this, also there is a relay mounted on the
passenger fender that appears to have something to do with the
compressor cluch, could someone tell me what this relay is used for.

A friend found a good ram air hood for me, it in pretty good shape
except on the very front just under the curve where it has some damage.
Other than that it is in good shape, it was on a 71 Cutlass S with a 70
front end standard dash with a tic-tock-tac which my friend Tom is going
to take, amazing what you will find out on some farms in the trees.

Later,

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32
70 Cuda 383 Conv.

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:46:30 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442, 66-69 Toronado parts for
sale.

**** New stuff to list****
69-70 Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
70 Cutlass Trunk Rocket (nice)  $10.00
71-72 LH Sport Mirror-Remote (N.O.S.)  $145.00 ea
70 RH Headlight Housing  $25.00
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (almost new)  $80.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $50.00
69 Cutlass RH Grille (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $400.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $40.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $100.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
72 442 RH Grille (N.O.S.) $300.00
71 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (nice)  pot metal  $125.00 pr
68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
66 Cutlass Grille (nice used)  $40.00
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
70  12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $25.00ea
66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00
66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea
66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea
66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00
68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00
68 Toronado Air Cleaner Pie Tin  $5.00
66-68 Toronado Trailer Hitch Assm.  $20.00

64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $25.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $10.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
(2) 66-69 SSI Wheels  $40.00 ea
Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Cutlass Front Grille  $40.00
LH Rear side molding  $10.00
Glove Box Door  $35.00
Front Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Window Molding Set  $75.00 set
A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 ea
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
N.O.S. Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $130.00 pr
Used Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $65.00 pr
Supreme/442 Side Moldings  $15.00 ea piece
Rear Window Molding Set  $75.00 set
Front Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
A Pillar Moldings  $15.00 ea
Glove Box Door  $35.00
(2) Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $45.00
442 Fender Emblem (1 set)  $20.00
442 Grille Emblem  $20.00
Headlight Plastics  $100.00 pr
Hood Hinge Set  $50.00 pr
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr
69 442 Rear Bumper (nice)  $130.00
Hood Tongue  $15.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $40.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $40.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

70 Cutlass/442
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
S Hood Chrome Grilles  $40.00 pr
Hood Grille Moldings  $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue  $25.00 ea
Cutlass Supreme RH Door (rust free)  $110.00
"S" Black Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $45.00 pr
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea
Windshield Molding Sets  $85.00 set
Rear Upper Control Arms  $50.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $100.00
442 Coupe Trunk Lid (little rust)  $75.00
Black A/C and Non A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
(1) Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire
console shift lens. Beautiful reproduction. $35.00 plus $3.00 shipping.  We
are getting ready to tool up for the 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate shift lens for
reproduction soon.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:49:24 -0300
Subject: Thursday at the Salvage Lot (The ongoing saga...)

     Well, having only five hours before my last final test ~ever,~ I did
what any level headed student would do.  No, I didn't study (No I didn't get
drunk!) I went back to the salvage lot again.  Found a couple more Toros.
'83 and '84.  (One with really nice interior, but mostly gone...)  Explored
a new section, cuz I could see a '64 Ninety Eight on a trailer (That story
earlier posted:)  While there I found an '81 Ninety Eight Regency-Complete,
Two tone burgandy, tinted windows, SSIII's with the ~big~ center caps...
Diesel.  Probably sell it as a whole car.  Fairly clean.  Doesn't belong at
a junk yard, that's for sure!  Kept looking.  Another Olds, also 81, as I
recall.  A Delta.  Ooh, ooh, ooh!!!  (At least I ~think~ that's what I said)
It's sitting on a set of chrome SSIII's!  Two center caps, but I've got a
couple here somewhere.  I walked quickly back to the office, only pausing
shortly to look at a '78 Toro's steering wheel inlay, and brought the owner
back to look at the wheels (he wanted to see what I wanted)  He said $150.
I counterred with $100 (You know me! :)  We settled at $140, and I'll be
picking them up tomorrow.  Even if they're the wrong bolt pattern, I still
made out well. (My fingers are crossed, though.  I hadn't considerred that
possibility at first - Heck, I don't even know if they're 14's or 15's.
Screw it, they're chrome!!!!  :)  Woohoo!  Hey, if they don't fit the
Rockit, they'll fit the 67 98 Convert!  Won't that look wild!


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 01:04:11 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C question/found a Ram Air Hood

At 12:40 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I have a problem with the A/C on my 70 SX, it work fine the problem is
>when you move the control to vent, heat or defrost the compressor cluch
>will not release until I turn off the switch.  Any one have any Ideas
>what might be causing this, also there is a relay mounted on the
>passenger fender that appears to have something to do with the
>compressor cluch, could someone tell me what this relay is used for.
>
>A friend found a good ram air hood for me, it in pretty good shape
>except on the very front just under the curve where it has some damage.
>Other than that it is in good shape, it was on a 71 Cutlass S with a 70
>front end standard dash with a tic-tock-tac which my friend Tom is going
>to take, amazing what you will find out on some farms in the trees.
>
>Later,
>
>John Oder
>70 Cutlass SX W-32
>70 Cuda 383 Conv.
>

John

        Good question. All of my older A/C cars do the same thing. Does
anyone know why? I thought at first mine was screwed up. I replaced the
relay and it did the same thing.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:55:36 -0300
Subject: Celebrity Olds

>We should start a thread on Celebrities and Their Cars; of course limiting
>ourselves to those celebs who own(ed) Oldses :)

I read in People or some other magazine where they knew the youngest
Arquette actor had spent the night at some starlet's house because his
"60's Olds" was parked out front till the wee hours.  Was it so dark they
couldn't read "Cutlass" or "Delta"?!

I was just  impressed they realized it was an Olds......


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:51:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Charley's Salvage Lot

Boy that bumper off that '68-'69 Delmont 2 door looked great.  A lot of
what was visible on that car looked good.

Sigh.  Nothing like that little old Toro horn button though......


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:41:19 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C question/found a Ram Air Hood

>At 12:40 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>Hi all,
>>
>>I have a problem with the A/C on my 70 SX, it work fine the problem is
>>when you move the control to vent, heat or defrost the compressor cluch
>>will not release until I turn off the switch.  Any one have any Ideas
>>what might be causing this, also there is a relay mounted on the
>>passenger fender that appears to have something to do with the
>>compressor cluch, could someone tell me what this relay is used for.

>>John Oder

>John
>
>        Good question. All of my older A/C cars do the same thing. Does
>anyone know why? I thought at first mine was screwed up. I replaced the
>relay and it did the same thing.
>
>Jim Chermack
>

Well the compressor comes on with the defroster so that the ac evaporator
can help de-humidify the air.  I don't know about the vent and heat settings
though.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: bbodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 03:45:02 -0300
Subject: AOL MEMBERS PLEASE READ!!!!!!!

TO ALL AOL MEMBERS:

DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT OPEN ANY MAIL YOU GET THAT IS TITLED
AOHELL97.COM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IT IS A VIRUS, I DID NOT KNOW AND I OPENED IT, IT F*CKED UP MY WHOLE
SYSTEM AND I SPENT AT THE MINIMUM OF 5HR. GETTING IT BACK UP.  I LOST
EVERYTHING.  ALL MY PROGRAMS NEEDED TO BE RELOADED AND MY DOCUMENTS ARE
GONE!!! IT IS A VERY HARD AND TIME CONSUMING TASK.  DO NOT OPEN IT!!!!!


BRYAN BODINE

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 02:06:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Charley's Salvage Lot

At 12:51 AM 5/9/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Boy that bumper off that '68-'69 Delmont 2 door looked great.  A lot of
>what was visible on that car looked good.

The pass. 1/4 panel is banged up all the way down it.  The roof has a bit of
a dent from the car on top of it, though! :(  I ~hate~ the way they do
that!!!!!


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 02:12:33 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C question

Greg Pruett wrote:

> >>I have a problem with the A/C on my 70 SX, it work fine the problem is
> >>when you move the control to vent, heat or defrost the compressor cluch
> >>will not release until I turn off the switch.


I think I read something about this somewhere a long time ago,(always
say you READ it somewhere, it sounds smarter than if you say you saw it
on TV....)  in a land far away it seems, that up until 1971, once the
defroster/AC is turned on, and the compressor clutch engages, it stays
engaged until the lever is placed in "OFF".  I think. I've never owned a
pre-71 with AC. Maybe it was only for the defroster.....I don't
remember.  I'm 37 and my memory fades........now where did I put my car
keys.........

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 02:20:54 -0300
Subject: Wanted: 66 Cutlass rear bumper

I have a friend who needs a good rear bumper for his 66 Cutlass drop =
top. If anyone has one, they can e-mail me direct and I'll pass the info =
along. Thanks.

Jim Rabideau
rabid@cybrzn.com
70 W30

------------------------------

From: MV <dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com>
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 02:40:10 -0300
Subject: SUSPENSION 73 Delta 88

i re send this one because with what happened yesterday, i don't know if
anybody got it...




Bonjour, everybody,

I'll be back home in a week or so and would like to work on the suspension
of my car. i'm mean rebuild both front and rear.
i've checked prices around and found great differences between dealers and
what's offered. Most of them will have a standard, a deluxe, a high
performance, a polygraphite or a polyurethane bushing kit in a price range
from 150 $ to 340 $.
i use the car quiet often but don't do any kind of racing, i just want the
car to run properly and be comfortable.
Do you think i have a need of one of these polygraphite (high performance) kit
or standard bushings will do the job? They tend to say that these
polygraphite are better, last longer, etc. is it worth it? (340$ against 210$)

What about sway bars? are they a real improvement to the stability of the car?

Among shock absorbers: air, gas, heavy duty, regular. What will be the best
for me, knowing i'd like a firm suspension?
i read in the option list for 73 that heavy duty coils and suspension
required special wheels. How special?

And last. on the rear suspension control arms, how do you change the bushings?
In the service manual it says you have to replace the control arm itself
(?), but i think i found bushings only for them. So who is right?

Help!!!

A. LACHATRE

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª666
********************************
