To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #649


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 6 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 649

Re: Olds "tech tips" (fwd)
Re: recommendations for 2.25 exhaust
Re: H/O aero
1965 425ci cam
oldsmobile-digest V1 ª648
Re: H/O aero
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª648
Re: Rockit ran again
Re: 1965 425ci cam
Super-Tuning & Blueprinting Booklet For Sale (5/6)
Re: 1964 original colors
RE: recommendations for 2.25 exhaust
Re: recomendations for 2.25 exhaust
G-body interior chrome
Re: New England get together
Re: Clutch (fwd) & Tires
Answers: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust (Long)
Re: Test.  Just delete this one
1965 425ci cam
Re: Attention!!! All 70 442 W-30 owners
Re: Calling out for 50's owners
Re: Stolen 442
Re: A/C Ooops
Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons
Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube
Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut
Re: G-body interior chrome
Re: A/C Ooops
Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad
Re: White rubberized paint
Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad
Re: New England get together
Attention!!! All 1970 442 W-30 Owners
Upcoming event...
Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons
subscribe to olds Email newsletter
Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons
Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons
test, erase
Re: rear differential
Re: test, erase
Fel- Pro Gasket Set
70 delta 88 convertible
Strange Noises / Shifters
T-3 Headlight info
Re: 70 delta 88 convertible

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc.seflin.org>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 00:46:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds "tech tips" (fwd)

Hi Tim;
thanks for the nice response to my post.

  I have a 455 in my 1970 98LS.
My distrubutor needed a rebuild.  I should have replaced it with HEI.
The HEI is a very good unit!  Mine failed at 103,000 miles, what a piece
of junk (HA-HA).  I paid around $80.00 to have RUSS auto of Hollywood
Florida rebuild it for me.  Few shops still have a good distrubuitor test
bench.  Russ has one because he does racing distrubitors and older marine
units that use the old points and condensior.  I got them (RUSS) a plug
in Oldsmobile Club of Florida's "Classic Olds Journel" because they gave
me excellant service for a fair price.  I had other problems with my
engine that I thought were the fault of the distrubitor, and they stood
by their work, and tested the unit for me several times that led me to
the other problems that turned out not to be a distrubitor problem at all.

I hope to be a writer one day, so I like to get response's like yours
that tell me "Did I communicate the idea/information to the reader clearly?"

Please send me some more information.  Where do you live? Are you a
member of any oldsmobile clubs?  What other oldsmobiles do you have?

Thanks again for the email
dennis Sytsma

Homestead, Florida
Member Olds club of America
Southeast Coordinator Oldsmobile Club Of Florida
1970 98 LS 455 CID Auto/power everything!
1977 Vista Cruiser Station Wagon 350R Auto

Need parts for 70 98 LS!!! help me restore this car!
Left Front Fender, Left rear Quarter Panel, Trunk Lid.

Rembember YOU CAN HELP FIND MISSING CHILDREN!!! VISIT
http://www.missingkids.org
click on the "How I can Help Icon".  Print out the information! give this
info to anyone who has a internet homepage and wants to help!  If you do
not have a internet homepage, visit the database at the missingkids
database. print out a poster and give it to your church/school/bussiness
assoication.  ask them to help
PASS IT ON!


Dennis Jon Sytsma

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org

or you can cc a copy to my full internet account at

sytsma@gzinc.com

On Mon, 5 May 1997 laradon_aaa@eos.csdco.com wrote:

> Thanks for the note on HEI distributors. I've recently replaced the 330
> engine in my '67 cutlass with a 455. I have been advised to put in an
> HEI. The mechanic that did the work said that it wasn't necessary. My
> worst nightmare is being caught in a situation like you have described.
> You are lucky. For people like me, I wouldn't have the module or the
> tools to fix it. I'd be like the Griswald's in "Vacation."
>
> Tim Hall
> HallT@athena.csdco.com
>

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 00:56:40 -0300
Subject: Re: recommendations for 2.25 exhaust

On Mon, 5 May 1997, Easton,Jeffrey wrote:
>
>
> Anyway, the pipes and "sears special" mufflers
> are pretty rusted up so its probably a good time
> to investigate a new exhaust system.  Since the
> exhaust manifold dump measures out to approx 2.25",
> any recommendations on a good mandrel bent 2.25"
And, speaking of reccomendations, what's the standard method of 'fake'
dual exhaust made for '75 single exhaust manifolds.  My plan is to plug
the driver's side exhaust entrance on the main manifold (already done),
then use factory pipes for the passenger side and a custom one on the
drivers side???????????????????????????????

>
>
> Since the exhaust manifolds are around 2.25",
> why would you want bigger pipes?  Who has a
> convincing argument for 2.5" pipes? :-)

Although a bottleneck of 2.25 inches minimizes flow gains of a 2.5 inch
exhaust, hot expanding exhaust travelling all the way along your car will
still get better flow with the bigger pipe, much like a bigger garden
hose will get more flow even when fed through a small in-house plumbing pipe.

.....Shameless but short self-promo sig file Version 2.1.....
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
.....End of self-promo                                  .....

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 01:04:28 -0300
Subject: Re: H/O aero

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> At 09:29 AM 5/5/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >FYI- I know somwone who just came from the Taladega racetrack museum
> >and low and behold they have an H/O aero on display.
>
> All this recent talk about the H/O Aero packages has me drooling (again...
> I'd finally managed to get that stopped, but here we go again...  :)  Does
> anyone have access to ~ALL~ of the following three items?  Camera, Scanner,
> and H/O Aero????  The scanner may be optional, as the prints could be mailed
> to one of us that have one...  I've never seen one of these kits, and I'd be
> really anxious to check it out.  I'm sure many other A/G body Olds owners
> would love to see one, as well (or several...)
>
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>              500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
>              Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              "FAST FWD" (Soon)     | '67 Toronado 425
>                      Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!


If anyone finds a picture of the H/O aero I'd be willing to scan the
image at the highest res. possible and post it at my site for all
intested to download ! Also if anyone needs any images scanned, e-mail
me for details, and there's no charge to list members (provided you own
one Oldsmobile !)

- -----------------------------

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/30/97)

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 01:31:09 -0300
Subject: 1965 425ci cam

OK the FAQ at Bryceman's site lists stock cam specs for 425 Starfire;

ª388828
                      intake          exhaust
overlap 50

duration          286               280

lift                  .427              .461


Is this the same cam that was found as stock on the (you guessed it) Dynamic
88 of 1965? My service manual says nothing about cam specs and I am somewhat
sceptical that the Dynamic cam would be the same (I would think slightly
milder i.e. 2bbl, single exhaust). Daren? Any input? Anyone?.....
Buehler?..... Buehler?

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 02:38:58 -0300
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª648

OL>From: Daren@qconline.com
OL>Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 09:26:16 -0300
OL>Subject: Re: '78 Olds Delta 88, suspension tips

OL>OL>I'm not even sure if I'm doing this right, but I'll find out (replying
OL>OL>that is) I found out PST makes a 1" rear sway bar and a 1 1/8" front
OL>OL>sway bar for my vehicle, but I believe they want $160 for it, which is
OL>OL>too much right now, considering i'm in college and working.  I may just
OL>OL>end up rebuilding a small block for my 88, perhaps another 350 or maybe
OL>OL>a 403 but I don't care for the 403's 'windowed' main webs.

OL>OL>Mike Jones mjones@gleep.com

OL>If I remember right the '77 403s have solid mains not windowed like
OL>'78-'79s do.

'77 403's have soild mains?  I heard that just a few 403's had solid
mains..  but of course the 403 was only in production from '77-'79
also.  I'll check out some '77 403 blocks in the yards around here.

Mike Jones mjones@gleep.com
'78 Olds Delta 88 coupe

OL>------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 04:46:30 -0300
Subject: Re: H/O aero

>If anyone finds a picture of the H/O aero I'd be willing to scan the
>image at the highest res. possible and post it at my site for all
>intested to download ! Also if anyone needs any images scanned, e-mail
>me for details, and there's no charge to list members (provided you own
>one Oldsmobile !)

Umm, should that be "~AT LEAST~ one Oldsmobile?"  Shouldn't matter to me,
cuz I've got a scanner, but I wouldn't want anyone to feel restricted
because they're trying to have too much of a good thing :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 04:46:35 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª648

maybe
a 403 but I don't care for the 403's 'windowed' main webs.
>
>Mike Jones mjones@gleep.com
>
>If I remember right the '77 403s have solid mains not windowed like
>'78-'79s do.
>
>'77 403's have soild mains?  I heard that just a few 403's had solid
>mains..  but of course the 403 was only in production from '77-'79
>also.  I'll check out some '77 403 blocks in the yards around here.
>


Very few had them  (Very few were lucky enough to see one:)  It seems to me
the FAQ had a partial listing of casting numbers that held solid main webs.
There may be more, so by all means, look, but don't hold your breath.  My
403 lasted quite well, with it's windowed webs, though.  (At least I think
it had em.  I knew nothing of the difference when it became a paperweight)
A faulty balancer took out the front end of the block (well, it caused the
crank to take that part of it out, anyway) so the whole assembly was pretty
well shot.  I might have saved a rod or two, but that'd be even
questionable.  The crank ended up in two pieces, and I've got the removed
section of the block in my toolbox still today...  I can't for the life of
me remember what the ~rest~ of the inside of the block looked like though.
I'd be just sick at the thought of losing a "monstor" block, but it's highly
doubtful.  Although it ~did~ come out of a Firebird, and somebody told me
they were fast cars!  (Hmm.  Must not have been in an Olds for a while:)

Man, what a quiet night.  I'm supposed to be doing my final research paper,
and here I am babbling about the block I lunched three years ago!  Hmm.
God, it's already 1:45, too.  I'd better get to work.  Later :)



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 04:46:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Rockit ran again

At 07:31 PM 5/5/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Charley Buehner wrote:
>>
>>      Well, since there's little going on here today, I'll tell ya'all that
>> the Rockit drove again today.
>
><snip of Charley's usual material>
>
>  Still making
>> preparations for the two new additions to the street out front.  (One of
>> which will ~not~ be able to start or run...  EVER:(  The other should for a
>> while...

>With a life like yours & that collection, Montana must be quite a place
>to visit.  Is the state legislature taking up a collection for your
>removal at this graduation you are always talking about?  You aren't
>planning on moving South are you?

Heck no.  I don't think there's enough room down there for all my cars :)
Even Texas isn't ~that~ big...  (or lenient:)

I keep my fleet ~fairly~ mobile (At very minimum I ~push~ them around every
week or so, just so I can say they've moved.  In this town, anything that
hasn't moved in five days is considered an abandoned vehicle, and is subject
to towing.  That really pi**es me off, but I comply quietly.  Technically,
and legally, if I got thrown in the hospital for some crippling illness
(like that hangover many of us will experience after graduation :)  and am
down for a week, I could come home to an empty lot, and be responsible
(financially) for the towing expenses of all five cars.  If I were some
rich, longstanding community member coming back from Arizona after a three
week vacation, I'd be fighting mad to find that the city even towed one of
my cars.  (as it is, I can't take big vacations like that.  Mine are more
like three hour vacations to the local salvage lot......:)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 04:46:33 -0300
Subject: Re: 1965 425ci cam

>Is this the same cam that was found as stock on the (you guessed it) Dynamic
>88 of 1965? My service manual says nothing about cam specs and I am somewhat
>sceptical that the Dynamic cam would be the same (I would think slightly
>milder i.e. 2bbl, single exhaust). Daren? Any input? Anyone?.....
>Buehler?..... Buehler?

Wow, frighteningly close.  Ferris is out right now, and I haven't the
slightest idea (and my name is pronounced a bit differently, but...) Seeing
as the list is deathly quiet, I feel a bit safer being a bandwidth hog and
replying this way :)



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:30:50 -0300
Subject: Super-Tuning & Blueprinting Booklet For Sale (5/6)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

Copy of the Spring 1972 publication =B3Super-Tuning and Blueprinting
Specifications for 1971-72 Oldsmobile 350 and 455 Cu.In. Engines -
Information Covers Street, Drag & Marine Performance=B2.  18 single sided
pages which cover factory performance parts used in the 1969 to 1972
Cutlass and 442 lines, including W-30 and W-31.  Includes recommended
modifications and adjustments to carbs, suspensions, and transmissions,
primarily for drag racing.  Also has a section on high performance
marine engines.  Originals of this publication were provided upon
request by Oldsmobile Engineering, but this is apparently not an
official Oldsmobile publication.  I=B9m sure that most of the information
in this is quite out of date now, but this is interesting reading none
the less.   Would the show display for your =8C71 or =8C72 be complete
without one?  $10.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.  (5/6/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

From: Jaakko Mustakallio <jaakko.mustakallio@kolorit.fi>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:45:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 1964 original colors

>Jim Hoekendijk Wrote

>Greg, Paul & others,
>
>Thanks for the info concerning the colors and ª's.
>The garage that's working on my car uses AKZO ª's, but I'll find a way to
>convert the given ª's (maybe somewhere on internet?).
>In the ª's you've given me, what is R.M. short for?
>

>Thanks again. I'll let you know what color I pick, I haven't made up my mind
>yet!
>

AKZO Sikkens colorlisting has almost all 60's paintcodes listed by those
one-letter original oldsmobile-codes.  I'm glad to hear that you have
chosen garage that uses Akzo paints.  Company where I work is importing
Sikkens-paints from Holland to Finland ( Skandinavia, Europe ) . So I can
try to help finding formulas for your oldsmobile if you need.

Jaakko Mustakallio

Starfire Convertible 1965

------------------------------

From: Curt Salada <csalada@astea.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:20:16 -0300
Subject: RE: recommendations for 2.25 exhaust

>
>Anyway, the pipes and "sears special" mufflers
>are pretty rusted up so its probably a good time
>to investigate a new exhaust system.  Since the
>exhaust manifold dump measures out to approx 2.25",
>any recommendations on a good mandrel bent 2.25"
>system that fits; a) stock exhaust manifolds,
>b) stock location of mufflers, and c) stock
>exits to allow welding on trumpets?
>
Hello.  I wholeheartedly recommend investigating purchasing your exhaust
system from King and Queen Mufflers in Plumsteadville, Pa.  I found
their ad in Hemmings several years ago and fortunately they turned out
to be less than five miles from my home.  I had them make a dual
aluminized system (downpipes to tailpipes) for my 1971 Cutlass, giving
them the make/model and engine size and the dimensions of my non-factory
mufflers.  As I recall, that was all they needed to bend a beautiful
aluminzed system for a competitive price.

When I brought the car in for its annual inspection, my mechanic asked
me about the exhaust system.  He told me he had assumed that the system
must have been custom-fitted right on the car because the bends were so
close to original and was quite surprised to learn that they had bent it
from a specification.

Even if they are not local to you, look them up in Hemmings and give
them a call.

Curt Salada
(not affiliated with King & Queen Muffler, or any other auto interest --
just a regular guy)

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:37:50 -0300
Subject: Re: recomendations for 2.25 exhaust

Jeffrey,
As a fellow 70 4-4-2 four speed owner let me tell you my findings.  The
guy who runs the muffler shop where I had my 2.25 pipes bent and
installed did not recomend anything larger.  He felt that the lack of
velocity in the larger pipes would contribute to premature rusting.
When I questioned performance he replied that unless I had a heavily
(ie full race) modified engine, the 455 would never benefit from larger
pipes.  He installed 2.25 inch alumanized pipes with short turbo
mufflers.  The car sounds like it has new glasspacks that have not burnt
out yet.  I took the muffler shop guy at his word because he is a very
knowledgable and successful drag racer.  Anything larger than 2.25 gets
crowded going over the axle.  The trumpets just happen to be the same
size as the 2.25 pipes.  Mine are 13 year old Walker trumpets from NAPA
and are not perfect, but look nice enough to use on a driver.  I am
going to have them butt welded to the pipes.  I did not put them back on
at the time we installed the pipes because I wasn't sure about how I
wanted to re-install them.  I will replace them the next time around
anyway.

I hope this helps,
Dave Wyatt
70 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@Prodigy.Net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:49:12 -0300
Subject: G-body interior chrome

I wrote this yesterday, but since there were e-mail problems, I am
resubmitting this.


> I was cleaning up my 85 442 the other day, and while I was in the back
> seat, to my horror, I saw the chrome coming off both rear side panel
> cloth insert trim.  I took one piece out, and took the trim off.  It had
> to be gently pried off, due to it being heat-stamped/glued to the velour
> insert.  The trim is still in excellent shape, except for what it looks
> like the mylar/chrome is shedding off.  My question of need is, how can
> I get these pieces re-chromed?  The trim is of a flexible-type plastic,
> and I don't think standard plastic re-chroming would work.  I figure I'm
> not the only one that has run into this, since the interior doesn't see
> the sun very often, and hasn't in over 10 years.  The rest of the
> interior remains mint.  ANY IDEAS??????
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:46:56 -0300
Subject: Re: New England get together

- ----------
>
>
> On Mon, 5 May 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > At 12:44 AM 5/5/97 -0300, you wrote:
> > >
> > >I was just wondering if the meeting at Berejick's this Saturday was
still
> > >on.  I hadn't seen anything about it lately on the list.
> >
> > Whoa!  I hadn't been following this thread closely at all, but it just
> > dawned on me why that name sounds familiar.  Check out this image, is
there
> > any correlation?  I see the spelling's different, but that may not mean
> > much.  I pulled this out of my Olds in
> > Action (Vol.1)
> >
> > http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/berejik.jpg
>
> I believe the car in the picture was most likely owned by this dealership.
> I spelled the name wrong that's why it didn't match up.  They have an Olds
> performance parts store next to the dealership.  I'm not to familiar with
> them though.  Maybe someone actually native to New England could offer
> some more info.
>
> Bill Reilly
> '85 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>
Yes, this car was or maybe still is owned by this dealer, they raced stock
eliminator in '68 - '70. I have a picture of there 70 W-30 4 speed post
coupe race car.. They have a bunch of rare cars "stashed" away. One thing
neat about there parts store is when you walk in they have a 70 W-30 455
sitting right there on display with the correct F heads, aluminum intake
and OAI air cleaner assembly!!! (Unfortunatly there prices tend to be kind
of steep...) Oh and the engine is not for sale :(

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Mike Coccagna" <mikec@oz.kis.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:45:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Clutch (fwd) & Tires

On  5 May 97 at 20:18, Nascarnut5@aol.com wrote:

> I have a question to you about clutches.  What is their normal life
> time?   I'm pretty ruff on mine, just because I bought the car to play in,
>... I now have 46,000 miles, and I am wondering when I will be replacing it.

Well, if it makes you feel any more comfortable, I have 118K on my
origional clutch, and I do NOT baby the car.  The dealer told me I need a new
clutch back at 80,000 miles, but its still working without slipping.  I have
very little play in it at the top or the bottom.  The only difference in my
442 and my SCX's clutch is the SCX's is a lot lighter.  The SCX has 24,000
miles on it......

> Also....I'm do for some tires, I don't think the "factory" Goodyear
> Eagle GT+4's will be on my car again.  I've already replaced them
> once.  I'll be buying my 3rd set in a month or so.  (23,000 miles

23K on a set of GT+4's is a lot better than some others have gotten,
but about average for a Quad442.  I replaced my Eagles with
Eagles off my Ciera Gt (they had about 10K) at 23,000 miles, and
replaced them at 35,000 miles with BF Goodrich Comp T/A HR-4's.
Those Comps were just replaced in November at over 100K (and they
still had tread).  The Comp T/A's are a LOT cheaper -- 4 Eagles
around home cost about $600 with mount/balance/alignment and the
Comps cost $350.  $250 and 40,000 miles is a big influence on the
tire choice.

You should be happy with Comp's overall.  I have found them a better
tire in the following ways:
- They are quieter
- They grip the road better
- They are much better in the rain/snow.  Eagles are worthless after
about 12K in either situation.
- Less "twichy" at high speeds and when they are over-inflated.
- And the cost/mileage thing...

Disadvantages of the Comp T/A's (for me) were:
- Bouncy ride at Olds recommended  PSI's - Increase them to about
35PSI and it takes up the difference.  (or you could install Koni
adjustables and that goes away ;-) )

I did change my wheels to a 15" in the process.  I have stored away
the O.E. wheels to protect them (I've chipped the clear coat a few
times).  Your results should be the same.  I bought my BBS wheels AND
tires for $550 from the Tire Rack in '93.  They came in mounted and
balanced, so all I had to do was put them on....

> could.  I've lost traction lately, and they are getting pretty bald,
> almost bald that is.

That's probably because of the age/wear on the tire.  See above...

Mike
'91 442
'93 SCX

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:46:12 -0300
Subject: Answers: 83-4 H/O & 85-7 442 Exhaust (Long)

Here is the orig message w/ replies to each question I got through the
digest (except for the individual ones I got at home)

>>> I've had it w/ exhausts for my '87 442.
>>> - From the factory it come w/ 2.25" system (.25" bigger than Monte
>>>   Carlo SS & Gran Nationals)
From: Daren@qconline.com
Did you try Flow Master? They have a system for GNs in my Summit catalog
2.25" replaces the stock system from the rear axle back. $228.50 Seems
like a lot of money for a muffler and tail pipes.
Daren
O.C.A. ª23571
Daren@qconline.com
(I checked it out and it was a single transverse muffler w/ duals.
FlowMaster doesn't make a dual muffler setup for G-bodies - Brad)

>>> - - Torque Tech DOES NOT AND WILL NOT IN THE FUTURE make a 2 1/2 inch
>>>     aluminized mandrel bent exhaust system for a cat-back installation.
>>>     They say there hasn't been a "rush" for them but they will sell me
>>>     a 3 inch system.  That would lean out my little 307 to much.
>>> - - Hooker makes a similar system, but it is a 2 inch system
From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
     I'm almost positive that the Hooker system was a 2.5" system, not a 2"
system.  Have you tried calling someplace like Summit and ask if they have
it?  I called them a few months ago just to ask if they had it and they
did, but I lost my notes.  I think it was around $250 with mufflers.
    I agree with your evaluation of Torque Tech, they gave me that attitude
when I talked to them also.  They say the 3" system is selling well enough
that they don't need to make a 2.5" system.  Well, duh!  If all you offer
is the 3" system, then all you're going to sell is the 3" system!  Why is
that so hard for them to figure out. . .
     I know that ATR makes a stainless 2.5" cat-back system that's
expensive ($600 or so) but excellent quality, sound, and being stainless I
doubt you'll ever need another exhaust system.  I'm seriously looking at
this one when my '84 H/O needs a replacement.
     Whichever system you get, be sure to ask how the tailpipe exits.  Many
exit out the rear under the gas tank like the Monte SS, rather than out the
side behind the wheels, since a lot of these manufacturers have their
Chevy-blinders on not allowing them to see anything else.
     Are you sure it's 2 1/4" stock system?  I measured mine not too long
ago, and I measured a 2" inside diameter at the tailpipe.  Could that
2.25 be outside diameter?
( I stand corrected. Will look at the pipe diameter, inside & out, when I
get the car back - Brad)

>>> - Walker makes a similar system, but it is a 2 inch system.
>>> - Walker makes a replacement system, but you "must" use center/center
>>> OEM style and size mufflers, so much for center/offset or offset/offset
>>> turbo style mufflers.(Double checked - It's 2.25" - Brad)
>>>
>>> I lost the previous messages I saved about this subject from the past
>>> so here are my questions this time (I will print and save the reply's
>>> this time)

>>> 1 - Who had the NAPA part ª's for the replacement exhaust
From: "Gilbert Russell" <russellg@dmv.com>
NAPA part numbers for the 84 H/O exhaust is as follows:
45211        Tail pipe                $22.62
45222        Tail pipe                $22.62
22623        Muffler                $50.46 ea.   (expensive little buggers)
They didn't have them in stock when I went in but they got them over night
from their main warehouse.  I didn't need to replace the hangers, y
pipe or center pipe after the catalytic converter. NAPA did list those
parts also.  Sorry I don't have those numbers.
Gil Russell
84 H/O
(I'll seek out the other numbers for other's reference - Brad)

>>> 2 - Anyone done a system w/ turbo style mufflers and what
>>>     did ya use (NO 3" systems please)
None really

>>> 3 - any thoughts on mufflers (Not flowmasters, out of my
>>>     price range)
From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
As for muffler recommendations, I don't have a good answer for you on
a cheap muffler.  It's really a personal decision anyways, how loud do
you want/can you stand, and what kind of tone do you want?  I've been
told to stay away from the Dynomax's, they have an annoying drone at
about 2000rpm, plus they get louder with age as the packing blows out.
The Walker Ultra-Flo muffler is supposed to be very good, but they're
expensive since they're stainless.  The Thrush CVX muffler is a good
cheaper alternative to the ultraflo.

>>> 4 - Did anyone replace their Cat. Conv. w/ a new high flow
>>>     model and if so which one and your opinion.
From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
One exhaust guy I talked to said that the cat on the car already
is of the same design as the "high flow" meaning it's honeycomb and not
pellet style.

>>> 5 - Y-pipe used: was is custom bent or production piece.
>>> 6 - Any TOTAL custom bent systems and how much did it run
From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
I had a custom Y pipe and total custom bent system for my '85 Cutlass. I
used dual Supertrapp mufflers exiting like the Monte SS (I know, I
know, but that's the only way they would fit) The mufflers were about $100
each and the custom bent aluminized pipes cost me about $300 at a Midas
shop. They did a great job on it too. (It got compliments from my
mechanics!!)

>>> 7 - Baltimore Area Gang: Any recommendations on places to
>>>     have the work done?
None

Final Decision-
Hooker Grand National/Monte Carlo Dual Exhaust System
(Description from and older Jeg's catalog)
Increase the efficiency of your 86-87 Grand National T-Type with 231 Turbo
or `85-87 SS  Monte Carlo with 305/350.  This cat-back kit bolts directly
to the stock catalytic converter and requires no modification to existing
emission control system. Features large 2.5 inch 16 guage mandrel bent
tubing and a pair of super competition mufflers,  Tailpipes exit behind
rear tires.  $259.99

Thank you Tom Lentz
The Hooker system is cheaper than what Meineke quoted for Walker
replacements. $300+ just for the pipe & mufflers.  The picture in the
catalog looks like the pipes exit the same way as stock and even have the
slash cut to them, not a pencil tip.  Ordering a kit today and might have
it on by next weekend the 17th.  Let ya know how they sound.
First I have to get the 442 back from the body shop.  Most of the clips
that hold the rear window mouldings broke and they had to get new ones, so
it wasn't ready Fri (MAJOR LEAGUE BUMMER) bu man was the paint deep.

Hope this helps out someone in the future
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
(H)  brad442@erols.com
http://www.erols.com/brad442

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:05:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Test.  Just delete this one

Test

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:07:20 -0300
Subject: 1965 425ci cam

OL>OK the FAQ at Bryceman's site lists stock cam specs for 425 Starfire;

OL>ª388828
OL>                      intake          exhaust
OL>overlap 50

OL>duration          286               280

OL>lift                  .427              .461

OL>
OL>Is this the same cam that was found as stock on the (you guessed it)
Dynamic OL>88 of 1965? My service manual says nothing about cam specs and I am
somewhat OL>sceptical that the Dynamic cam would be the same (I would think
slightly OL>milder i.e. 2bbl, single exhaust). Daren? Any input? Anyone?.....
OL>Buehler?..... Buehler?

OL>Karl Aune
OL>1965 Dynamic 88
OL>Chicago, IL

According to an article in 2/95 issue of JWO. Says this is a Starfire
cam. Here is what it has listed as cams used in '65

part ª       over      dur.           lift                  application
                  lap      in./ex.        in./ex.
387484     52    278/282  .430/.432          400 eng.  330 4 bc,st   425
exc. starfire
388992     47    278/282  .430/.432          jetstar 88   330 4bc jt  th
558528     36    250/264  .387/.388          330 2bc
388828     50    286/280  .472/.461          starfire

4/2 bc - 4/2 barrel carberator
st - standard tranny    jt - jetaway tranny    th - turbo hydro tranny
duration is at 0 lift

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:12:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Attention!!! All 70 442 W-30 owners

>I am looking for this car, not just any car but the one with the
>following VIN
>
>VIN:  344770M201645

This is kind of a long shot, but an outfit called CarFax tracks
sales transactions of cars and can track the history of a given
car by its VIN. You might need to know the state where the sale
occurs, though. They charge something like $20 for the service,
though I don't know if that's waived if they can't find the car
at all. Anyhow, they're at 1 (800) 274-2277 if you want to try.

Disclaimer: No connection to 'em; satisfied customer only, etc.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Dean Hodge <hodged@nichols.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:22:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Calling out for 50's owners

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------A0914CD5CE8665D763E5C6E2
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Well you are not alone in regards to 50 model ownership.  I presently
have a 54 Ols holiday 98 that I am partially restoring.  I had previouly
been drag racing the car since the mid 80's.  Today it is street legal
and about to hit the street. I am looking for the A/C bos that goes in
the trunk of the 54-56 so I can put and ait conditioner in the car.  Got
any ideas.  2nd question have anyone seen a 3 dueces intake for a 50's
model oldsmobile that I can buy, the one I had was stolen recently by
someone who obviously thought it would fit on a modern car.
Dean Hodge
- --

- --------------A0914CD5CE8665D763E5C6E2
Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: Card for Dean  Hodge
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf"

begin:vcard

fn:Dean  Hodge

n:Hodge;Dean

org:NRC

adr:MS 3-3-39;;4040 Memorial Parkway SW;Huntsville;AL;35802;

email;internet:hodged@nichols.com

title:Senior Consultant

tel;work:205-883-1170 x1347

tel;fax:205-880-0367

x-mozilla-cpt:;0

x-mozilla-html:FALSE

end:vcard




- --------------A0914CD5CE8665D763E5C6E2--

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:16:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Stolen 442

>
> I want to ask the help of fellow Olds fans in the Las Vegas (and Southwest
> US) areas to be on the look out for my black/silver '86 442 which was
> stolen on 5-3-97.  It is all orig. can be recognized because of having tint
> on side windows but none on the rear window.  NV License ª FZB 095,  VIN
> 1G3GK4794GP369613.  It was my 16th birthday present 11 years ago and I am
> heartbroken!!!  If you do see this car, please call the LV police.  Thanks.
>
> jdkim@lvdi.net
>
>
Sorry about your car, I guess some Olds fans take it to the extreme
and think that they have to steal someone elses to add to there
collection rather then but one legally and do it the right way...

What is the LV Police number? I'm in Phila and a car like that
would stand out, I will keep a eye  out for it.

Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:19:27 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C Ooops

>While looking under the hood at my O2 sensor, I crack a hard plastic
>(and very brittle..) vacuum line.

Heh. Been there, done that.

>Checking my service manual, I find
>that it one of the A/C vacuum hoses.  But I really can't discern what it
>feeds vacuum to.  There are two, a violet and a grey.  I broke the
>Grey.  I think it's for the water valve.

Sounds about right. I think the violet goes to the vacuum reservoir, the
spherical-shaped thing attached to a bracket hung off the A/C evaporator,
right?

>Is there such a thing as an
>"in-line connector" for hard vacuum lines??  Or am I scr**ed and have to
>replace the whole thing?

You can splice the hard stuff with a short length of tight-fitting vacuum
line. Be sure that the end of the hard line isn't squished flat and has
no debris in it, though. If the grey line broke fairly close to the water
valve, you might be able to draw up enough slack to connect the end to
the valve itself, and just discard the short bit that broke off.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:26:43 -0300
Subject: Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons

  Last night I went ot check out a guy's add in my area that had Olds '71
W30 rods with forged pistons and other stuff as well.  I bought a Muncie
close ratio and an Olds 455 Flywheel from the guy and had him hold the
flywheel in exchange for my taking one of his piston/rod setups.  It's in
front of me now.

  My questions are:

  Is there any difference between normal early 455 rods and W30's?  If so,
what?  These are resized, but not deburred.

  The pistons are from Nylen Products which I have never heard of.  Anyone
familar with them?  The model number is 961-P.  I don't think that they are
forged, but am not sure.  What should I look for?  They also have the date
"OCT. 92" on the inside of the piston.  If they are eutectics that's fine
with me.  If that's the case, they'd be high temp castings.  Another reason
I think they are cast is there are support plates at either end of the
piston perpendicular to the wrist pin.  I think this is to provide extra
re-enforcement for the pins.  They are pressed and the wrist action feels
nice and smooth.


  Finally, the piston/rod sets have been made the same weight.  The number
on each setup is 1541.  I assume that to be grams.  I know the weights of
the original cast pistons and the wrist pins from Mondello's ref. manual,
does anyone have the rod weights handy?



  Thanks.


  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:30:47 -0300
Subject: Posi Differentials and Synthetic Gear Lube

FWIW I put Mobil 1 in the "C" posi rear currently in the SX and it made the
most gawdawful banging noises you could imagine.  This would occur after
running on the straight highway and then stopping and making a turn.  After a
loud "clang" it wouls loosen up and be OK until you did the same routine
again.

I added the GM additive and it went away. So my experience is that Mobil 1
needs the GM additive for use in posi rears.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:31:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Flare Nut

>
> I finally got my flare nut wrenched today.  Figured I would attack my
> fuel filter.  I liquid wrenched it and let it sit, but it still wouldn't
> budge.  I don't want toi try anymore as I think I am on the verge of
> permanently screwing up the nut.   anyone have any other ideas/tips on
> how to get that sucker loose??  (I know, spend the $25 and have a REAl
> mecahnic do it....but that's too easy...)
> Thanks!
>
> ---Matt
> '86 442
> --------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
> remove the "spoiler" for replies |
> --------------------------------------------------------
>
>
I've done this at least 10 time in my car fixing days. You need two
wrenches one flare nut wrench for the smaller nut and a big wrench
I think about 1 1/8 in for the big one, it may be hard the first
time. You have two hold the big wrench still and turn the smaller
one against the force of the big one. Be sure that you have the
size for the smaller one they strip easy..


Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 01:44:30 -0300
Subject: Re: G-body interior chrome

>> I was cleaning up my 85 442 the other day, and while I was in the back
>> seat, to my horror, I saw the chrome coming off both rear side panel
>> cloth insert trim.  I took one piece out, and took the trim off.  It had
>> to be gently pried off, due to it being heat-stamped/glued to the velour
>> insert.  The trim is still in excellent shape, except for what it looks
>> like the mylar/chrome is shedding off.  My question of need is, how can
>> I get these pieces re-chromed?

I've never tried it but the word is you can brush on some adhesive (like
super glue) and take an old shiny mylar baloon and rub it on when the glue
gets tacky and then tear it back off.  The shiny sticks to the plastic and
looks like chrome.  I'd practice on something else first before I tried it
on trim though....Take an old plastic piece of something-or-other and play
around some first.  I've heard you can buy mylar in a hobby shop but I
haven't been able to find it.  I have seen some ultra-light emergency
blankets in the camping section of wal-mart that look like they might be
mylar.  They're thin shiny plastic and relatively cheap too.


Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:34:40 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C Ooops

>
> While looking under the hood at my O2 sensor, I crack a hard plastic
> (and very brittle..) vacuum line.  Checking my service manual, I find
> that it one of the A/C vacuum hoses.  But I really can't discern what it
> feeds vacuum to.  There are two, a violet and a grey.  I broke the
> Grey.  I think it's for the water valve.  Is there such a thing as an
> "in-line connector" for hard vacuum lines??  Or am I scr**ed and have to
> replace the whole thing?
>
> Thanks!
> --
> ---Matt
> '86 442
> --------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
> remove the "spoiler" for replies |
> --------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Hi, Parts USA has these little kits that are used to repaire the
nylon vacuum hoses for about  $1  I've used them in the past and
they work fine...

Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 14:54:42 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad

At 08:43 PM 5/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Is the glove box cover and the ashtray cover still present?


Glove Box Cover: Yes
Ash Tray Cover: No

Ray

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 07:27:01 -0300
Subject: Re: White rubberized paint

Mullen, R. Scott wrote:
>
> You wrote:
> >Included in this process is a white rubberized paint to cover the
> >whitewalls smoothly.  A very sharp blade is also needed so as not to
> >scuff the white rubber.  It must be cut very cleanly.
>
> >Bill Culp
> >Decatur, Alabama
>
> Bill,
> Any idea of where I can get this white rubberized paint?  I posted a
> request earlier for someone to help me out with making my black outline
> tires into white outline tires, but nobody responded.  This paint sounds
> like it would do the trick.  Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Scott Mullen

Scott,

I wasn't trying to ignore you.  I don't know what the man who
demonstrated this used.  I had him make me some red-line radials for my
442 & he had trouble w/the red paint that he used.  Just like the early
UniRoyal Tiger Paws, the red would darken in a few months & have to be
redone.  I finally gave up on his paint.

I did go out and come up w/my own red paint (Red Devil enamel)and it has
stayed in perfect shape for the last 5 years.  Enamel was used vecause
fo it's elastic ability.  I had to put on 2 coats by brush over the
faded red that was there.  A fresh job may require 3 coats.  I also
cleaned the area several times w/Prepsol.

I have also tried to do the same thing w/white letters that are
outlinned.  I filled in the blocks so as to get solid letters using Red
Devil white.  It has been ok for a year although I haven't driven on
them as yet.  They are just outside getting ready for mounting on the
car and so weather hasn't been an adverse factor here.

I am posting this to the list also in case it is useful.  I haven't
tried full white walls this way.  I dont' know how it may look.  There
are no brush marks in the small areas 3/8" I have done, but I haven't
tried a 3 1/4' whitewall either.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:59:25 -0300
Subject: Re: '70 Cutlass dash pad

If it's not warped and in good shape I would be interested in it.How much?

------------------------------

From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:57:51 -0300
Subject: Re: New England get together

whatever you all want to know about George and the boys at Berejik, I can
probably help.  Seen all his cars, both the real ones and the "psuedos", the
parts stash etc.  Expensive is putting it mildly, but George understands
economics 101, supply and demand, and pricing strategy.  His show is usually
a good time, and occasionally he'll let you waslk through the warehouse.  My
70 w-30 Convertible came from there, and I used to live about 10 miles away.

------------------------------

From: "Stubblefield, Lyndall (lstu)" <lstu@chevron.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:59:53 -0300
Subject: Attention!!! All 1970 442 W-30 Owners

I am in search of a 1970 Oldsmobile 442 W-30 with the following VIN

VIN:  344770M201645

If you currently own this vehicle or know of it's whereabouts please
contact me via E-mail at lstu@chevon.com or lrstubble@paranet.com

Thanks,
Lyndall

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:22:07 -0300
Subject: Upcoming event...

I was just looking through the upcoming events for the OCA, etc., and saw
there was a "Spring Dust Off" coming up on May 17th at Finley Olds in South
 Beloit, Wi. that was sponsered by the Illinois, and Wisconsin chapters.  Are
there any people on the list that are planning on being there?  It's only
like 5 minutes from my place, so of course, I'll have to stop by.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:36:41 -0300
Subject: Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons

>   The pistons are from Nylen Products which I have never heard of.
Anyone
> familar with them?  The model number is 961-P.  I don't think that they
are
> forged, but am not sure.  What should I look for?  They also have the
date
> "OCT. 92" on the inside of the piston.  If they are eutectics that's fine
> with me.  If that's the case, they'd be high temp castings.  Another
reason
> I think they are cast is there are support plates at either end of the
> piston perpendicular to the wrist pin.  I think this is to provide extra
> re-enforcement for the pins.
Forged pistons do not have the steel struts you decribed. These are to keep
the piston from contracting when it cools off. This lets you run cast
pistons with less clearance than is possible with a forged one.
Hypereutetic pistons are still cast they just wear better because of the
increased silicon content. They also seem to be more brittle and dont take
detenation as well as a eutetic or a forged, but they dont pound out the
ring lands as easy. I have never heard of Nylen Products has anyone else?
Walter

------------------------------

From: Markintime@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 15:43:43 -0300
Subject: subscribe to olds Email newsletter

Please add my name to you list of subscribers.
Markintime@aol.com
Thanx..

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 16:02:21 -0300
Subject: Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons

At 02:36 PM 5/6/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>
>>   The pistons are from Nylen Products which I have never heard of.
>Anyone
>> familar with them?  The model number is 961-P.  I don't think that they
>are
>> forged, but am not sure.  What should I look for?  They also have the
>date
>> "OCT. 92" on the inside of the piston.  If they are eutectics that's fine
>> with me.  If that's the case, they'd be high temp castings.  Another
>reason
>> I think they are cast is there are support plates at either end of the
>> piston perpendicular to the wrist pin.  I think this is to provide extra
>> re-enforcement for the pins.

  I answered my own question by checking the Thomas Register.  Nylen are
generic stock replacements.  Unless the rods are something special(I doubt
it now) then I won't be buying them.


  Thanks

  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 16:01:46 -0300
Subject: Re: W30 Rods and forged pistons

if thy are forged they will have an F at the end of the part number if no F
no forge!

IRONMAN



>>   The pistons are from Nylen Products which I have never heard of.
>Anyone
>> familar with them?  The model number is 961-P.  I don't think that they
>are
>> forged, but am not sure.  What should I look for?  They also have the
>date
>> "OCT. 92" on the inside of the piston.  If they are eutectics that's fine
>> with me.  If that's the case, they'd be high temp castings.  Another
>reason
>> I think they are cast is there are support plates at either end of the
>> piston perpendicular to the wrist pin.  I think this is to provide extra
>> re-enforcement for the pins.
>Forged pistons do not have the steel struts you decribed. These are to keep
>the piston from contracting when it cools off. This lets you run cast
>pistons with less clearance than is possible with a forged one.
>Hypereutetic pistons are still cast they just wear better because of the
>increased silicon content. They also seem to be more brittle and dont take
>detenation as well as a eutetic or a forged, but they dont pound out the
>ring lands as easy. I have never heard of Nylen Products has anyone else?
>Walter
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:25:52 -0300
Subject: test, erase

It's just been awful slow the last few days and my last message never went
though.

Did the net shut down for cleaning?  No one told me.  :)

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 18:24:52 -0300
Subject: Re: rear differential

At 07:45 AM 5/5/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>>         Here are the 70 Codes:
>> snip
>
>May I ask for the 68 codes? :-)
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Chris Sparks
>

Chris

        I lent my 68 Service Manual to a friend. I'll get it back and give
them to you towards the end of the week.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:33:16 -0300
Subject: Re: test, erase

Greg Pruett wrote:
>
> It's just been awful slow the last few days and my last message never went
> though.
>
> Did the net shut down for cleaning?  No one told me.  :)

Greg,

This corner of the net getting cleaned?  You must be kidding.  Yoiu
don't know these guys & gals very well, do you?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:36:27 -0300
Subject: Fel- Pro Gasket Set

              Hi all, Does anybody happen to know the partª for a
complete gasket kit for a 455?  And yes i know the valley  pan    doesn't
come with com. kit. I need that partª to.     Has anybody used Mondello's
bolt-in valley pan,& if so what kindof  luck?
             Thank's in advance.   Luke

------------------------------

From: AWalker564@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 19:36:27 -0300
Subject: 70 delta 88 convertible

I need quarter panels and bumpers for a 1970 delta 88 convertible.  If anyone
knows where I can obtain these parts please let me know.
  Thank You

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 20:00:56 -0300
Subject: Strange Noises / Shifters

  Howdee folks,
                        My Olds has picked up a strange noise as of late,
 it's kind of like pebbles rattling around in a can but it's muted, almost
the same sound a valve spring makes when it's being compressed for
installation.  The only thing internally that i changed on the engine was the
installation of a set of Mondello oil restricted pushrods, could this
possibly be the source of the strange noise??  It doesn't really follow any
pattern exept that sometimes it does fall in sync with the engine, sometimes.
      My second question is if anybody knows what happens if a shifter cable
gets stretched or kinked?  I have fiddled and fiddled with my Hurst Promatic
2 shifter and it just doesn't seem to want to work right -- every thing work
like it's supposed to except for when i shift into 1st/low gear --  then the
tranny acts like its trying to be in 1st and second gear at the same time --
i checked the linkage movement and the stroke is just shy of putting the
tranny solidly into first gear.

   I did have a little fun with the car already though with the shifter
adjusted differently
heh heh --  Featherfoot/drifted it up to my 5000 rpm shift point in 1st and
banged it into second and promptly screeched the tires for about 30 ft until
i backed off just enough to let them catch again and ran it up to 5000 in
second before i backed off.
Leaves me thinking that a 69 Hurst Olds must have been nearly impossible to
drive at full throttle on the old style Polyglass GT tires of the 60's and
early 70's

   Anyway -- if anybody has any clues -- let me know

                         Thanks -- J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 20:07:33 -0300
Subject: T-3 Headlight info

     To all...  I'm not much on the ~original~ restoration category, but I
remember some talking about finding the T3's, and still having the T3's,
etc.  What's the big story with these headlights?  (aside from being
original equipment)  Are they date coded, or model specific or anything?
How valuable/rare are they?  The '66 Toro I just bought (don't have it home
yet, but I ~do~ have the receipt, at least!) has three of them, and I ran
across two or three more out there.  Anyone want to shed some more light on
this subject (boo, hiss...  Bad pun, sorry!)

Thanks :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 20:11:29 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 delta 88 convertible

At 07:36 PM 5/6/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I need quarter panels and bumpers for a 1970 delta 88 convertible.  If anyone
>knows where I can obtain these parts please let me know.

What all interchanges with the convert?  I have a 70 Delta 88 four door,
with many parts still remaining.  David Brown still has dibs on many of the
parts, if still interested, but it has a good driver's 1/4 panel, and a
fairly decent front bumper.  (The back bumper's already sold & shipped,
along with driv. fender, and the pass 1/4 and doors are destroyed by pickup
& horse trailer)  If these or any other '70 Delta parts are needed, let me
know, and I'll check with David and see if he needs any of the same parts,
and then we'll go from there?


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª649
********************************
