To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #607


oldsmobile-digest          Friday, 11 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 607

Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Re: Fw: New Car
GM Electrical Connectors (Was Re: Electrical Question)
Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
Re:  dash covers
RE: Fusick web page
Acquired Olds
1959 Dynamic 88
Re: Electrical Question
interesting observations
4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)
Re: Collection of subjects
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Tires & Radios
Re: interesting observations
Re: 1959 Dynamic 88
Re: Tires & Radios
My 98 radio
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh
Re[2]: interesting observations
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
RE:  SPark Plug Gaps
Re: 1959 Dynamic 88
Re: nightmare in suspension mod land
Re: Tires & Radios
Re: 1967 442
Re: GM Electrical Connectors (Was Re: Electrical Question)
Re: paint color for SSII's
Re: paint color for SSII's
Re: Brake/knuckle info
Lower body paint protection
Re: Lower body paint protection
'62 buick invicta
Re: Lower body paint protection
Re: '62 buick invicta
Re[2]: 1967 442
Re: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)
Re: '62 buick invicta
Why Engine Flush?
RE: Funny stuff
RE: '67 Cutlass info
Steering Wheel
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage
RE: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Re[2]: interesting observations

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 11:49:32 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

>You guys have never looked into the wiring in a Rolls Royce have you?  The
>power windows for example, have 8 wires.  Two to each window.  Yes, each has
>a separate ground, I suppose they consider the chassis to be the electrical
>netural!  And they use wire of sufficient size too.

Ex-squeeze me? This is the same window circuitry as that of GM, by
necessity: if your window motor is expected to run in either direction,
for up or down motion, you'll need some way of running current through
it in either direction. So for the Up direction, one wire feeds positive,
the other runs it to negative ground. For the Down direction, the wire
roles reverse. The switching is done in the little control switch on the
door that you're poking at with your finger.

This is complex enough, but gets even better: The driver needs to control
all (two or four) windows from his panel, plus each passenger gets their
own control switch, plus you need interrupt/override capability to guard
against short circuiting if one switch is pressed for Up while the other
for that same window is pressed for Down.

Plus you need to figure out how to do this as economically as possible,
meaning you can't use exotic banks of relays and whatnot, and you can't
use microprocessors because they haven't been invented yet (back when
power windows first came out). Having worked on this stuff myself, I am
impressed that it worked at all. (Uh, _before_ I fixed it, not after  :-)

BTW, a bit off the subject: who supplies Rolls Royce with transmissions?

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 11:58:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Fw: New Car

At 04:54 AM 4/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> Well we were lucky enough to find another car, a mathching ª's 1971
>> Cutlass S Holiday Coupe, stock w/ original paint for a whopping $450.
[snip]
>> What we want to do is build the car for primarily street use (daily
>> driver) and most importantly to run on pump gas. So we don't want ultra
>> high compression but we do want to be able to smoke the tires once in a
[snip]
>> most peoples. Also, who is a good supplier of rebuild kits (price and
>> quality).

PST has high-quality kits at excellent prices. Go with the earlier 10.25:1
compression pistons (cast should be fine) and recurve your distributor;
you'll be happy you did, and you will be able to run on 92-93 octane gas. If
you must use 87 Octane gas, go with the 8:1 pistons.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 12:04:04 -0300
Subject: GM Electrical Connectors (Was Re: Electrical Question)

>> Does anyone know the right name for these and if they can be bought in
>> the aftermarket?
>
>I believe they refered to as softshell connectors probably made by AMP
>(Harrisburg, PA).  Check http://www.digikey.com/ as a source.

You can resuscitate the old ones by cleaning them and reshaping the
connectors slightly, if they're not too rotted out. The metal connector
is held in place within the plastic shell by (in most cases) a metal
barb hooked over a plastic ledge in the shell. Use a very small flat
bladed screwdriver to press the barb down, and the connector will slide
out the back of the shell. You get at the barb by sliding the screwdriver
in the front opening of the plastic shell, down the back of the connector.
(For female connectors, the back is the opposite side from the curved
retainers; for male connectors you kind of have to squint at it to see
which side the barb is on. There is sometimes a small recess in the edge
of the plastic shell to accommodate the screwdriver tool.)

Once you've extracted the connector, sand it lightly, clean it up,
reshape it to grip better if necessary, and wipe it lightly with
Vaseline. Removing the connector flattens the locking barb; pry it
out again gently with the screwdriver to a slight angle.

Blast the plastic connector shell with cleaner, compressed air and/or
whatever's necessary to clean the crud out of the crevices, reassemble,
and it should be fine.

The connectors most in need of this cleaning are usually for headlights,
and the results are well worth the effort.

(BTW, I see from the commuter train that there's a big new warehouse
or manufacturing plant being built on the northwest side; the signs
announce that it's "AMPERE AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS." Same company as that
of Harrisburg, PA?)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 12:04:57 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

At 10:49 AM 4/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>BTW, a bit off the subject: who supplies Rolls Royce with transmissions?

Aw, you know the answer to this one: whose transmissions are world-renouned
for their smoothness, reliability and seamless operation?

GM, of course; that's why RR used the TH400 for ages (as did Jaguar- and no,
it's not true that Jag specified their own pan gaskets that were designed to
leak a certain amount of oil when new, as per British standards...); now I
believe they are using the 4L80 OD version. I don't know what will happen
when they switch to BMW engines.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 05:27:17 -0300
Subject: Re:  dash covers

>Where is a good place to get the ABS hard plastic style dash cover? The
>$500 that just dashes wants to redo my dash just isn't in the budget
>right now..

Stephen,  '70 Cutlass dash pads tend to hold up pretty well and seem to be
pretty commonly available in very good condition at junkyards.  What color are
you looking for?  Is the Cutlass "S" pad the same as other Cutlass and 442
pads? I believe it is.  Unless you're looking for a rare color, I'm sure you
can get one off somebody on the list for less than $200 and probably less than
$100 if you visit your local pick-a-part and pull it yourself.  You may have
to try a few different yards over the course of a few months though.  Let me
know if you still can't find one and I'll keep an eye out.

hans

------------------------------

From: "R.B. Short" <rbshort@barnessmithlewis.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 13:45:55 -0300
Subject: RE: Fusick web page

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC466D.F62487A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

   You didn't waste bandwidth or length. I, for one, didn't know this =
and appreciate your info. I'm just glad A LITTLE of all that money I've =
been sending them is coming back.
           R.B. Short                 1956 "98"               OKC, OK

- ----------
From: Chris R. Smetana[SMTP:Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 1997 3:13 PM
To: Oldsmobile ListServer
Subject: Fusick web page


Just wondering if everyone knew Fusick had a web page.
www.oldntime.com
then click on Fusick....or you could click on one of the other =
companies.
If this is already know, I apologize for wasting bandwidth.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute,IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com






- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC466D.F62487A0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

eJ8+Ig8QAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABBJAG
ADgBAAABAAAADAAAAAMAADADAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAFEAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDd
AQ9UAgAAAABvbGRzbW9iaWxlQGNoZWJ1Y3RvLm5zLmNhAFNNVFAAb2xkc21vYmlsZUBjaGVidWN0
by5ucy5jYQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAGgAAAG9sZHNtb2JpbGVAY2hl
YnVjdG8ubnMuY2EAAAADABUMAQAAAAMA/g8GAAAAHgABMAEAAAAcAAAAJ29sZHNtb2JpbGVAY2hl
YnVjdG8ubnMuY2EnAAIBCzABAAAAHwAAAFNNVFA6T0xEU01PQklMRUBDSEVCVUNUTy5OUy5DQQAA
AwAAOQAAAAALAEA6AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAPaPQEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNyb3NvZnQg
TWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQSAAQAUAAAAUkU6IEZ1c2ljayB3ZWIgcGFnZQBxBgEFgAMADgAAAM0HBAAL
AAsALQA3AAUAVwEBIIADAA4AAADNBwQACwALACsAKwAFAEkBAQmAAQAhAAAAQzk2RkRFNDM2MEIy
RDAxMUExNEI0NDQ1NTM1NDAwMDAA4gYBA5AGAGwEAAASAAAACwAjAAAAAAADACYAAAAAAAsAKQAA
AAAAAwA2AAAAAABAADkAgMLu0pdGvAEeAHAAAQAAABQAAABSRTogRnVzaWNrIHdlYiBwYWdlAAIB
cQABAAAAFgAAAAG8RpfS7kPeb8qyYBHQoUtERVNUAAAAAB4AHgwBAAAAAwAAAE1TAAAeAB8MAQAA
ABsAAABXaW5kb3dzL1Bvc3RtYXN0ZXIvUkJTaG9ydAAAAwAGELwmHL0DAAcQ7gEAAB4ACBABAAAA
ZQAAAFlPVURJRE5UV0FTVEVCQU5EV0lEVEhPUkxFTkdUSEksRk9ST05FLERJRE5US05PV1RISVNB
TkRBUFBSRUNJQVRFWU9VUklORk9JTUpVU1RHTEFEQUxJVFRMRU9GQUxMVEhBVE0AAAAAAgEJEAEA
AADyAgAA7gIAAF8FAABMWkZ1jCL0cv8ACgEPAhUCqAXrAoMAUALyCQIAY2gKwHNldDI3BgAGwwKD
MgPFAgBwckJxEeJzdGVtAoMzdwLkBxMCgH0KgAjPCdk78RYPMjU1AoAKgQ2xC2DgbmcxMDMUUAsK
FFFVC/JjAEAgGuFZCGAgIGRpZG4nBUB3YSkTwSBiAHBkA/BkdFRoIAWxbAnwZxygLnAgSSwgAhAF
wAIgZeMdkBtla25vB+AcoAQA9iAcQR9AcBNQBZAHMBwBOnkIYSALgAIQHWEnbcgganUTwCBnC2Af
cABBIExJVFRMRXUcwGYfQGwDIBygIAAgawRgHgB5IOF2HBEJ4SD3EbAcUAuAZx7xE+AggAQgjQWg
bSRiHDBjay4KhZEmSVIuQh1gU2gVsQMmSiZDMTk1NiAiiDk4IietT0tDHZAHKjAKhQqLbGkxODDB
AtFpLTE0NA3wDNBzLIMLWTE2CqADYBPQY30FQC0upwqHLVsMMC4mRh0DYTovri4mDIIgQ2g/BRAE
ICcABgAHgAGQbmFAW1NNVFA6M2NfJScAXzP1QGQhoGMu/SUhXS9PMF0GYAIwMY8ym1RUaAhwczXQ
eR2QQR8TUAMRGTAdkCiwOTcggDM6MTMgUE02bxkwXVRvOK8ym09sZFpzBGBiAxAcEEwEAHQbBmEj
oHI8jzd+dWJq1y5hPq8ym0YhQGklsBvAZmUzQAqwZ2UqryuzM142LScaRS4mCoVKIUJ3zwIgBIEk
YgaQIGVBoSBA/x4AHqEH0UYlEYAfcUaHJdbad05QLgbwG4B0B3E2EvcKhSShA6BjK+BGYQIgRhXe
LlEBBbEgQSURdUCQUAj/S/IiYSShHMAkoQXAJSEKsHcDAAeQJdZJUvIfIR8ibN8WECGgI2Aesh2Q
SR+BFZH4Z2l6HBAdshvSJVQcVd8l1gqFM2Qz9QqFVASQFhAQIEhhdRPQLElO9wqFEXA04nI1MECw
NXxHHK9d70dPSF9JbyAVMQBi4AAAAwAQEAAAAAADABEQAAAAAEAABzAgr0KEl0a8AUAACDAgr0KE
l0a8AR4APQABAAAABQAAAFJFOiAAAAAAODM=

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC466D.F62487A0--

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 12:57:14 -0300
Subject: Acquired Olds

Hi All,
I would like to say thanks to everyone on the list for creating such a
friendly helpful environment. It is a real pleasure being a member!

I recently acquired a 70 cutlass convertable. She's got a 350 with a 4
barrel and dual exhaust, automatic trans and AC. At present the paint is
Krylon white with fades and drips. The interior is Track Auto seat cover
over torn light blue. The top is black and in good condition except someone
with a knife and a poor muscle control tried to add an opera window to the
driver's side. The plan is to put her back to the original Astro blue with a
white top and white interior.

BTW What is a good price for an Olds four spoke rally steering wheel in good
condition?

Thanks
Ray

70 Cutlass Conv.
Still looking for a 442 conv.

------------------------------

From: arjan johannes hegeman <a-hegem@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 13:06:51 -0300
Subject: 1959 Dynamic 88

I own a 1959 Dynamic 88.  The car has no engine nor transmission, but the
body is very solid and only has some surface rust.  The interior is in
fair condition (upholstery is torn).

My problem: I am moving and won't have the time to work on the car.  I am
trying to sell it but I have not found someone interested in it.  I am
willing to sell the car very cheap to someone who will work on it and can
get the car driving again.  If I have not sold the car in a couple of
weeks I will have to junk it, which would be a waste.  Is there anyone
out there looking for a solid oldsmobile for $200.-??

Arjan Hegeman
Champaign, IL
(217) 398-3195
a-hegem@uiuc.edu

P.S.  I have a lead to the original engine and transmission.  They will
have to be rebuild.  The last I heard was that the owner wants $50.- for it.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 06:13:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

     You can buy them at Napa (although you may not have those up in the
     Great White North), if you know what you want.  I get most of mine
     from my Dad who works for Kar Products, they have a web page at
     http://www.karproducts.com if you want to find a dealer near you.
     They're used to selling in bulk to body shops, truck stops, machine
     shops, etc. so they might not want to sell just a small order, but it
     can't hurt to ask.  Also a good source for chemicals like carb and
     brake cleaner, some tools, high-temp clear engine paint, and every
     fastener known to mankind.  He lets me browse through his catalog and
     there are several pages with pictures of all the different electrical
     connectors for GM cars.  They also sell a special tool used to get the
     pins in and out of these connectors.  The connectors all come with new
     pins that you crimp and/or solder to the wires and then insert into
     the connector so it looks professional and you don't have that
     spliced-together look.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Electrical Question Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/10/97 5:05 PM

     The discussion today about how automotive electrical systems are
     designed reminded me that I've never seen a source for the connectors
     typically used on cars.

------------------------------

From: tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 12:59:17 -0300
Subject: interesting observations

I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.  The old
oil was Mobil 1 and had been in there about 8 months, less than 2000 miles.
After running Gunk (an engine cleaner) for 15 minutes in the old oil, then
removing the old oil, I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my
water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and the
oil pressure drops to 40 psi after extended cruising.  The Mobil 1 pressure
never fell below 45 psi.  And at idle the oil pressure falls to around
15-18 psi.,as opposed to around 20+ before.  None of this worries me, since
these measurements are all comfortably within spec but I do find it
interesting the difference the oil makes.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 14:35:13 -0300
Subject: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)


BTW What is a good price for an Olds four spoke rally steering wheel in good
condition?

          Going rate in Hemmings is probably >$75, but as recently as
          two months ago at the Long Beach swap meet there was a
          vendor with 4-5 complete units for $25 each!  Note that
          there is a difference between the 70-72 wheels and the later
          units.  The later ones are slightly smaller in diameter and
          have the fake stitching around the edge.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 13:37:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Collection of subjects

I'm interested in the 98 radio, but do you know if it will fit into my 69
Delta 88 dash, methinks yes, anybody know for sure?

please e-mail me direct about the radio <fikaris@en.com>


- ----------
> From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
> To: Olds M List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Collection of subjects
> Date: Thursday, April 10, 1997 5:35 PM
>
> 1969 Olds 98 Radio, AM/FM, nice old-looking model, chrome colour,aging
> away in my junkyard, is it worth anything to anybody here (not looking
> for great amounts of $)?
>
> Electron -> I believe to have a very small mass, exponentially smaller
> than proton/neutron.  Also, electrity travels at approx speed of light
> (different lights travel at different speeds, not?), but, and I ask,
> WHO_CARES!
>
> Locking torques for Turbo 400's: Do replacement locking torques for old
> trannies exist?  at what cost?
>
> Coming Soon:
> They're not beutifal or rare, but their MINE!
> and soon they'll be ONLINE!
>
> coming soon, my virtual junkyard
> http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/olds.html
>
>
> EA~
>

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 13:59:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, John M. Barnes wrote:

> Yorcoy@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I bought a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. for $65.00 from a sheriff sale, not
bad > > Huh. > > Rick > > Yep, pretty good. Tell you what, I'll give $75.00
for it. A quick 10 bucks, what do you > think!?! :) > > John > > I'd go
100

Dustin

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 14:01:10 -0300
Subject: Tires & Radios

From:Paul Fikaris 69 Delta 88 Conv <fikaris@en.com>
RE:Tires

I'm looking for some nice (but not outrageously expensive)
touring/passenger WW tires for my '69 Delta 88. It has the original?
Polyglas tires on it. I will keep these, but I prefer the ride of radials.
I've had some success with Coopers in the past, they're cheap and I'm not
really planning on putting many mile on them.

I have a set of P235/70R/15s on my 1970 Plym*uth F*ry III Conv (which is
for sale if anyone is interested). I still have the set of Polyglas tires
(VGC) that it came with (if anyone's interested in these?)

Is the P235/70 tires size okay for the car. I want something beefier, but
nowhere near radical or non-stock looking.

Also (if you didn't see this as an earlier reply to Eric Aksomitis) will an
AM/FM radio from a '69 98 fit my '69 88?

Thanks

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 13:48:08 -0300
Subject: Re: interesting observations

I'm justguessing, but cleaning out the motor with engine flush may be
another indicator here.  By removing all sludge, you've essentially
lightened the new oil that's going in.  (I faithfully use engine flush
periodically, but have no oil pressure gage.) It follows that any
hard-residue inside the motor shorten's clearences and makes more
pressure a likely situation.  With 8 months and less than 2000 miles, I'm
guessing that's the story.


Glad to see an oldsmobile being taken care of!




EA~

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997 tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.  The old
> oil was Mobil 1 and had been in there about 8 months, less than 2000 miles.
> After running Gunk (an engine cleaner) for 15 minutes in the old oil, then
> removing the old oil, I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my
> water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and the
> oil pressure drops to 40 psi after extended cruising.  The Mobil 1 pressure
> never fell below 45 psi.  And at idle the oil pressure falls to around
> 15-18 psi.,as opposed to around 20+ before.  None of this worries me, since
> these measurements are all comfortably within spec but I do find it
> interesting the difference the oil makes.
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442
>
>

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:14:41 -0300
Subject: Re: 1959 Dynamic 88

I wish that you were closer to me and then I would buy it... I'm sure that
there is _somebody_ in Illinois that would give this car a home.  There's
probably half a dozen Chicagoans on the list.  Unfortunately though, I'm a
bit of a haul from you, being in Tennessee.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, arjan johannes hegeman wrote:

>
> I own a 1959 Dynamic 88.  The car has no engine nor transmission, but the
> body is very solid and only has some surface rust.  The interior is in
> fair condition (upholstery is torn).
>
> My problem: I am moving and won't have the time to work on the car.  I am
> trying to sell it but I have not found someone interested in it.  I am
> willing to sell the car very cheap to someone who will work on it and can
> get the car driving again.  If I have not sold the car in a couple of
> weeks I will have to junk it, which would be a waste.  Is there anyone
> out there looking for a solid oldsmobile for $200.-??
>
> Arjan Hegeman
> Champaign, IL
> (217) 398-3195
> a-hegem@uiuc.edu
>
> P.S.  I have a lead to the original engine and transmission.  They will
> have to be rebuild.  The last I heard was that the owner wants $50.- for it.
>
>

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (grpruett@vt.edu)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 05:05:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Tires & Radios

>I'm looking for some nice (but not outrageously expensive)
>touring/passenger WW tires for my '69 Delta 88.

>Is the P235/70 tires size okay for the car. I want something beefier, but
>nowhere near radical or non-stock looking.

Well the 235/70/15 general tires on my Vista-Cruiser ride and handle
beautifuly.  The car weighs about 4500 lb and has a pretty long wheelbase so
it's probably close to the size of your 88.  The 235s are probably a little
wider than stock but they won't look out of place and will be a definite
(sp?) improvement.  Wider tires  help the look of any car IMHO,  as long as
they will fit inside the stock fenderwells and don't rub.

In fact, I'd try and stuff 255 tires with offset rims under, your car if it
were mine.  :)

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 14:36:18 -0300
Subject: My 98 radio

Due to the fact that somebody actually might want my '98 radio, I will
take it out soon, take pics of it in car and out of car, check to see if
it works, and post my findings an an http address.  I'm not too concerned
about making any $, but I'd like to see it in a nice car.  I'm also
planning on building my virtual junkyard, but I'm still too busy building
me an actual driving car (limited to my Yamaha xs400 currently.)

Possibly Next week to week after is my ETC for my radio/junkyard project.




EA~

------------------------------

From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:06:26 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh

Daren-  a couple of points here to make.  The spark voltage is only
going to be as large as required to overcome the resistance caused by
the plug gap. Each cylinder will be firing at slightly different
voltages because of resistance differences. (plug wire length, condition
of plug etc.) You can't increase or decrease the firing voltage
according to just the speed of the engine assuming all other resistances
are the same.  Put your car on an ocilloscope or have it scoped watch
the secondary plug firing voltage.  Punch the accerator and the voltages
will peak.  Hold the rpms at about 2000 and the voltages will drop and
level off.   Now pull a plug wire off for second and you will see
obviously maximum resistance created and the voltage for that cylinder
will skyrocket (no pun) to the coils maximum design voltage. Yes NOX
does increase when you decrease HC and CO. Note: these points apply to
distributor ignitions and not nessesarily to the new distributorless
computer controlled ones.

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:49:29 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: interesting observations

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997 tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.  The old
> oil was Mobil 1 ...I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my
> water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and the
> oil pressure drops to 40 psi after extended cruising.  The Mobil 1 pressure
> never fell below 45 psi.  And at idle the oil pressure falls to around
> 15-18 psi.,as opposed to around 20+ before.

          I think these observations are consistent with replacing a
          synthetic oil with a non-synthetic.  The reduced internal
          friction of the synthetic would account for the hotter
          coolant temp with the Castrol.  In addition, I would assume
          the synthetic would have a more consistent viscosity with
          temperature, as opposed to the Castrol (resulting in the
          lower hot oil pressure).  I have also consistently seen the
          lower hot oil pressure immediately after changing the oil,
          due to the lack of oil-thickening sludge in the fresh oil
          (this was simply a replacement of Castrol with more
          Castrol).  As you point out, the current readings are well
          within family.  I, as you, am slightly surprised by the
          difference the synthetic makes, however.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:08:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

"Was it supposed to be LNG or CNG?"

Don't know.

"Finally, what would you have to put it in?"

At that time I had a '72 Monte Carlo, with a really lame rebuilt 350.
The car was very nice looking, inside and out, but the lack of power was
truly pitiful.  I figured a healthy big-block was just what I needed.
Didn't happen.  Oh well, maybe next time...

    Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:25:07 -0300
Subject: RE:  SPark Plug Gaps

Mondello recommends running .045 gap when using MSD components.. Owners
manual typically recommend .030 to .080... What is best given a multiple
spark box?  Is this another trial and error  adjustment for best
performance and economy?

Thanks

Al


  http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

From: arjan johannes hegeman <a-hegem@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:39:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 1959 Dynamic 88

> I wish that you were closer to me and then I would buy it... I'm sure that
> there is _somebody_ in Illinois that would give this car a home.  There's
> probably half a dozen Chicagoans on the list.  Unfortunately though, I'm a
> bit of a haul from you, being in Tennessee.
>

I hope you're right.  So far I have a realy hard time selling the car.
Although, in the beginning I did try to get more for it.  Now time is
running out, and I just do not want to junk the car.  It would be nice if
I break even.  If you know anyone in the Illinois area....

Arjan

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:45:38 -0300
Subject: Re: nightmare in suspension mod land

>Man! Do I have a headache! Talk about a real goosechase! The companys that
>have the goods I need are near impossible to deal with! The rectals that
>bought H-O Racing are not ready to sell that product line. I learned this
>after four or five calls a fax w/ all needed p/n's and a conversation w/the
>store mgr. G.W. Advancd Suspension has had it together. I think a little
>pricey for my blood. The kit I lust for is $695.00 It includes:
>
>                                        2-tubular upper cont arm
>                                        2-upper ball jnts
>                                        2-lower  "    "
>                                        4-del-a-lum upper bushings
>                                        2-outer tie rods
>                                        2-upper control arm shafts
>                                        4-del-a-lum lower control arm
bushings >                                        4-reinforcement plates >
assorted hdwr >                                        instructions > >Ron
Marocco, Technician, is very helpful and willing to answer questions. >The new
PHª is 909-349-2090. A friend and fellow 442 owner(67)of mine has >expressed
an interest in the Scott Mullen conversion. We both would like a >little more
detailed info if it isn't proprietery. I have detailed info on >the G.W. kits
for those who want it. > > > >James L. Smith >floydfan@wiltel.net

I am actually working on a 1965 98, but might be able to use some of the
info. I would like to find out what these manufacturers are doing and maybe
see if they can help me...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:46:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Tires & Radios

Reply to message from grpruett@vt.edu of Fri, 11 Apr
>
>>I'm looking for some nice (but not outrageously expensive)
>>touring/passenger WW tires for my '69 Delta 88.
>
>>Is the P235/70 tires size okay for the car. I want something beefier, but
>>nowhere near radical or non-stock looking.
>
>Well the 235/70/15 general tires on my Vista-Cruiser ride and handle
>beautifuly.  The car weighs about 4500 lb and has a pretty long wheelbase so
>it's probably close to the size of your 88.  The 235s are probably a little
>wider than stock but they won't look out of place and will be a definite
>(sp?) improvement.  Wider tires  help the look of any car IMHO,  as long as
>they will fit inside the stock fenderwells and don't rub.
>
>In fact, I'd try and stuff 255 tires with offset rims under, your car if it
>were mine.  :)
>
>Greg Pruett
>`72 Vista-Cruiser
>`67 Cutlass Supreme

  I think you might have a bit of a rub problem with 255's but on my '70 I
have 225/70/15 's in the front and 235/60/15 in the rear, the 60's fit like
a charm and aren't all that much wider than the 70's in front but i do get
a lot better traction out of it, I may switch to 60's in the front also for
a bit better handling, but the 235's fir on stock rims no problem and still
look stock is thats what your shooting for, good luck :-)

'70 delta 88
'79 cutlass
(still searching for the cutlass project car)

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

From: Sixty7442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:06:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 1967 442

In a message dated 97-04-10 14:40:45 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, it is.  But, I prefer the '66.  It's got cleaner headlight/parking
lights,
 and tail lights.  They are both way cool, Brendan. >>

Mike, how could you turn down that beautifully flared tail of the '67? Much
classier in my opinion!

Brendan
(lookin for a 67)

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:10:38 -0300
Subject: Re: GM Electrical Connectors (Was Re: Electrical Question)

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Andrew C. Green wrote:

> >> Does anyone know the right name for these and if they can be bought in
> >> the aftermarket?
> >
> >I believe they refered to as softshell connectors probably made by AMP
> >(Harrisburg, PA).  Check http://www.digikey.com/ as a source.

I'm not sure ('cuz I just stumbled into this thread) but the word this
reminds me of is the GM Weatherpack connectors.  These are the ones used
on most of the computer applications (sensors, etc.)  and have the little
rubber insulator boots inside.  Not sure if that's the connectors you're
referring to or not, but for what it's worth...

- --Charley Buehner  (In class, with no sig file...  Again)

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:02:41 -0300
Subject: Re: paint color for SSII's

From: Michael Baugher on 04/11/97 02:02 PM

     Has anyone found a good match for the
     grey used to paint '69 SSII wheels?
     I'm looking for an inexpensive match
     for touch up spray paint.

     Any help would be greatly appreciated.

     Thanks

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:52:46 -0300
Subject: Re: paint color for SSII's

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>
> From: Michael Baugher on 04/11/97 02:02 PM
>
>      Has anyone found a good match for the
>      grey used to paint '69 SSII wheels?
>
You might try Year One or Fusick (web page on this thread).  I think
they have the correct shade of gray for these wheels.  Eastwood makes a
Detail Gray that is pretty close also, but I think it's a little too
silvery looking.

Year One-  1-800-950-9503.

Eastwood-  1-800-345-1178

Hope I can help
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:59:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Brake/knuckle info

JPADA@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
>      I've done a little research into steering knuckle usage on disc brake
>      vs non-disc applications for A-bodies, at the request of Chris Sparks,
>      and I thought it might have some general interest, so I've posted it
>      here as well.
>
>      The following part numbers are listed in the dealer parts book:
>
>      1966 (and presumably earlier)      P/N 385091
>      67-69 Except Disc Brakes           P/N 396876
>      67-69 Disc Brakes                  P/N 3894475
>      68-69 Canadian (?!??)              P/N 1383958
>
>You are right in that the listing of P/N's are different, but the 70 Cutlass
I changed over to disc had the same part number stamped on the back of the
spindle assembly for both spindles (disc and non-disc).  Both sides were the
same way.  I just reused the old spindles and bolted up the disc brake parts.
Strange, but it fit like it was supposed to. Unless....nah ... I don't know
why anyone would convert disc to drums.......

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 17:22:47 -0300
Subject: Lower body paint protection

Let's see if anyone wants to tackle this one:

I am thinking about repainting my 85 442. It has the factory paint still
on it, (I know this, I ordered the car.)

What I need to know is about the factory paint protection for the lower
body areas between the wheel wells and behind the rear wheel well.  It's
a rough looking, dimply type of coating that LOOKS like it was applied
BEFORE the silver.  I'm not sure.  I don't know what this stuff is, but
when I get the car repainted, I want to be able to get this stuff put
back on the car.  I've seen it on numerous cars, but I haven't heard of
anyone replacing this stuff when the car was repainted.  The  look of
originality is to be maintained.

ANY IDEAS, PEOPLE?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 17:26:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Lower body paint protection

Factory Rock Gaurd???

This sound like 'Rock Gard' (That's the brand-name of what I've seen/have
used.  If this is the case, the stuff's a bit hard to get off the car, so
most people try to paint over it.  I own a car that suffered this, and I
wouldn't reccomend it.  The stuff is easy to spray on and the texture can
be changed by how you spray it.  I've never heard of factory rock-gaurd,
but I'm still owning '75's.  If you want details on experiences with the
stuff, let me know.




EA~

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, MROTHE wrote:

> Let's see if anyone wants to tackle this one:
>
> I am thinking about repainting my 85 442. It has the factory paint still
> on it, (I know this, I ordered the car.)
>
> What I need to know is about the factory paint protection for the lower
> body areas between the wheel wells and behind the rear wheel well.  It's
> a rough looking, dimply type of coating that LOOKS like it was applied
> BEFORE the silver.  I'm not sure.  I don't know what this stuff is, but
> when I get the car repainted, I want to be able to get this stuff put
> back on the car.  I've seen it on numerous cars, but I haven't heard of
> anyone replacing this stuff when the car was repainted.  The  look of
> originality is to be maintained.
>
> ANY IDEAS, PEOPLE?
>
> Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 18:00:08 -0300
Subject: '62 buick invicta

I know its not an olds but I thought someone might be interesed.

its a 4 door hardtop, green with green interior, it has a 445 wildcat
(according to the near perfect aircleaner)  the body is good excepting the
rf fender and the drivers door  I never talked directly with the owner but
a freind of his says it needs a starter but runs great

later
     Dustin

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 18:07:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Lower body paint protection

Mike,
A long time ago I had a new Buick Skyhawk with a manual transmission.
My oldest son was about 3 at the time and loved to set behind the wheel
of that new car.  Our driveway had a slight slope to it which caused us
to always leave the car parked in gear.  My dear son decided to push on
the pedals one day by holding on to the wheel and standing on the
clutch.  Near the drive was a decorative split rail fence and when the
boy got in the car he left the door wide open.  Needless to say, when
the car rolled back, the door made serious contact with a fence post.
The car had that same rough textured stuff on it along the lower portion
of the body.  When I had the damage repaired the body shop had to
replace this stuff before painting.  It was (is?) available through the
normal auto body supply sources.  I have no idea what it is called, but
any body man that has been working for the last few years should be
familiar with it.  Since that day we have kept the kids out of the cars
in the drive, especialy the 4-4-2.

Dave (who likes to tell longwinded stories) Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 19:16:24 -0300
Subject: Re: '62 buick invicta

Isn't that "It _IS_ a 445 Wildcat" not "has"?

Anon III

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Dustin Cross wrote:

>
> I know its not an olds but I thought someone might be interesed.
>
> its a 4 door hardtop, green with green interior, it has a 445 wildcat
> (according to the near perfect aircleaner)  the body is good excepting the
> rf fender and the drivers door  I never talked directly with the owner but
> a freind of his says it needs a starter but runs great
>
> later
>      Dustin
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 19:31:14 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 1967 442

In a message dated 97-04-10 14:40:45 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, it is.  But, I prefer the '66.  It's got cleaner headlight/parking
lights,
 and tail lights.  They are both way cool, Brendan. >>

Mike, how could you turn down that beautifully flared tail of the '67? Much
classier in my opinion!

Brendan
(lookin for a 67)

          "...flared..."???  The only difference between the tail of
          the 66 and the 67 is the one-piece vs two piece taillights.
          Trunk lids are interchangeable.  Granted, I like them both,
          in fact, I prefer the parking light between the headlights
          of the 67 and 68 models.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 18:51:23 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)

Find me a good one with lots of grain on it!  I have seen super nice wheels
sell for as little as $75, or as much as $300!

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 18:52:14 -0300
Subject: Re: '62 buick invicta

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Clayton Pierce wrote:

> Isn't that "It _IS_ a 445 Wildcat" not "has"?

not familiar with this vintage at all    name on the car is Invicta
aircleaner says 445 wildcat   didnt spend much time looking at it

Dustin

> Anon III
>
> On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Dustin Cross wrote:
>
> >
> > I know its not an olds but I thought someone might be interesed.
> >
> > its a 4 door hardtop, green with green interior, it has a 445 wildcat
> > (according to the near perfect aircleaner)  the body is good excepting the
> > rf fender and the drivers door  I never talked directly with the owner but
> > a freind of his says it needs a starter but runs great
> >
> > later
> >      Dustin
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: lns9659@LanMinds.Com (Lynn)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 19:24:53 -0300
Subject: Why Engine Flush?

Sorry for stupid question, But how does one know when to do it or it's
something extra to insure your are taking care of your car ? I mean since
most good car keeper change oil every 3k-5k miles and the oil came out of
engine almost as new as those that going in.

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 19:36:18 -0300
Subject: RE: Funny stuff

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC46A7.3F976360
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



Funny how he challenged something he knew he could beat, must not have =
alot
of confidence in the 5.0.
I had a similar experience yesterday with none other than an Olds =
Achieva.
We raced stoplight to stoplight and I let him win the first race (he was
laughing at me, rolled his window down and called my car a piece of =
sh!t) Ok
so the light turns green and by the time he puts his foot on the gas I =
am at
the next light already parked...he wouldn't even look at me now. Another
dumb@ss high school punk who thinks just because his car had dark tint,
wheels outside the body, loud bass and headlight covers his car was =
faster
than mine. I ~never~ get a 5.0 that will race me. I taunt them to no =
avail.
Maybe I smell bad or something:)=20

[Aaron R. Weimer] =20

I had a really nice run with a 1985 Thunderbird with a 351 Cleveland.  =
I was sitting at the light in town and he rolled up next to me running =
open headers, revved it a few times.  I just rolled my head over and =
told him he was asking for trouble.  His buddies were just leafing.  I =
am sitting here at the light in my '72 442 W30, 455, 750 holly, 2" =
hookers, and a 3 speed auto with a really good B&M shift kit.  This guy =
was in for it.  I dropped it into low figured I had better shift it =
tight, ya never know.  On the green light I mashed the peddle, didn't =
bother torquing it at all.  Right off I had three car lengths.  While I =
was in 1st he had already hit second, I slammed second, the 295/50's =
broke loose at 45mps, by this time I had him by 6 car lengths, he hit =
4th..  I dropped it in 3rd, and by now I am hitting 80 and the tires =
squawked again into 3rd :>  This was nice.  And it was over.  3rd =
started to wined and he was done.  about 15 cars back..  What a shame it =
was.  At the next light, he just looked strait ahead.  His friends were =
yelling "NICE CAR"..  I just drop it in low and burned off another 500 =
miles off the tires and was gone.. :>  This is my last race..

Aaron

1972 442 W30
- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC46A7.3F976360
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC46A7.3F976360--

------------------------------

From: "Dan Miller" <Dsm137@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 18:54:56 -0300
Subject: RE: '67 Cutlass info

- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of J2RKT@AOL.COM
Sent: Monday, April 07, 1997 8:23 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass info

  Check inside the trunk right around the body mounts towards the front of
the trunk around the wheel well areas -- This is a notorious area for rusting
out on the 66/67 Olds Cutlasses er F85s.  Also check the passenger side front
foot well for rust out -- I don't know why but almost every pre '70 Olds i
have ever looked at had a rust problem in this area also

     Hope that helps some

                                      J2RKT@aol.com

You bet they rust out in the back, for I just got finished welding in new
plates and rear body mounts on my '67 convertible. Not a fun job.....but glad
to have done it. I was amazed because the car has only 56k on it, and has been
 kept quite well. I bought it from the owner of a dealership who bought it
new. Luckily, mainly the body mounts were rotted and not the trunk floor, so
I made plates, and welded the new body mounts, from Year One, on to the
plates. Then I replaced the bushings and bolts. After a quick undercoating
job the rear is now back in good shape!!! Not to costly, and very necessary.

Dan.

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:26:25 -0300
Subject: Steering Wheel

I understand that the sport steering wheel was an option for a 69 442.
Can anybody tell me if it came just in black, or did it match the
interior color?  It was three spoked, right?  Also, could this car be
orderd with a remote mirror?

Thanks!
69 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 20:56:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

At 11:06 AM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>On Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:04:24 -0300 James William Townsend=20
>=20
>>One thing I was wondering about...Would natural gas cause more, or=20
>>less,=20
>>wear on the motor than gasoline?  Or would it make much difference?
>>I didn't really consider that at the time.
>>
>>    Jim Townsend
>>
>>
>>
> Its LP gas and it causes less wear as it is a cleaner fuel. Less acids
>are formed  during combustion so that the acids do not attack the oil or
>metal parts
>
>Scott Hensley
>80 delta 88/455 rocket
>
>
>
Scott,

This comes into the general world of semantics, but 'LP' =3D Liquid=
 PETROLEUM
gas, hence it comes from oil wells!!!  Natural Gas, is NATURAL, and hence it
comes from gas wells.

LP is the light ends of the petroleum hydrocarbons.  They are removed from
the liquid in the refinery first, as they boil off at the lowest
temperature.  They are liquified and stored as a liquid, until sold in that
form, or reintroduced into gasoline in the winter to aid in winter starting.

Please explain how it is cleaner?

As when you discuss natural gas, as it is full of all sorts of unsavory
material as it comes from the well.  Gasoline is a very tight range of
molecules, and is very clean after leaving the distilling tower.

Some crude oil is sufficiently clean, that it has been used as fuel directly
from the well.  Both the Japanese navy (during WWII) and the Mexican
National Railroad used crude as fuel.  The Royal navy had a big refinery at
Abadan(sp), Iran, that was simply a toping plant, it removed the gasoline
and all the balance was used as ships fuel, which was substanially crude.

What these gases do when they are used as fuel, is that they don't 'wet' the
upper cylinder walls at startup which was a major promoter of engine wear.

Also please expalin why it might produce less acid than either natural or LP
gas as used as a motor fuel.  A molecule of methan, butane or propane
contains exactly the same ingrediants (in different proportions only) as the
heptane thru octane modlcules which is the normal constitutant parts of
straight run gasoline.

This is not to say that either LP or natural does not make a satisfactory
motor fuel, but so does gasoline.  The gases are hard to store, harder to
use than a liquid, and boil off when the vehicle is setting. =20

Another 2=A2

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 21:03:55 -0300
Subject: Re: FW: Re[?]: MSDs, Current, and Voltage

At 12:04 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 10:49 AM 4/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>BTW, a bit off the subject: who supplies Rolls Royce with transmissions?
>
>Aw, you know the answer to this one: whose transmissions are world-renouned
>for their smoothness, reliability and seamless operation?
>
>GM, of course; that's why RR used the TH400 for ages (as did Jaguar- and no,
>it's not true that Jag specified their own pan gaskets that were designed to
>leak a certain amount of oil when new, as per British standards...); now I
>believe they are using the 4L80 OD version. I don't know what will happen
>when they switch to BMW engines.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>
>
Actually I believe that they originally made their own cases, and put TH
parts into it.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "Dan Miller" <Dsm137@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 18:59:40 -0300
Subject: RE: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

Jim,

              Would that hood moulding for the '67 be the same as for the '67
cutlass convertible?????

Let me know please,
           Thanks,
  Dan.
     dsm137@gti.net

- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of James & Joanne Chermack
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 1997 9:48 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $75.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $20.00
66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
$20.00 each
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $25.00
68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
68-69 Left Quarter Panel (whole thing to roof, no rust w/inner wheelwell)
$325.00
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue   $10.00
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00

70 Cutlass/442
70-71 Short Wheelwell Moldings  $100.00 set of 4
70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $40.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
(Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00

72 Cutlass/442
New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  (around radio area)  $20.00
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
Boxed Lower Control Arms  $60.00 pr
Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00 ea
(5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set

**** New stuff to list****
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
70-72 Long Wheel lip moldings  $120.00 set of (4)
70 72 Chrome Hood pins (OAI) nice  $30.00 pr.
14x6 SSI Wheels (All chrome) non disc brakes  $40.00 ea
70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $25.00 ea
69 Headlight doors (more sets)  $40.00 pr
69 442 Grilles (very good)  $180.00 pr
RH 70-72 Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire
65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  Let us know if your interested.

Jim Chermack
'70 SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 21:13:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: interesting observations

At 03:49 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>On Fri, 11 Apr 1997 tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
>> I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.  The old
 >> oil was Mobil 1 ...I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my >>
water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and the >>
oil pressure drops to 40 psi after extended cruising.  The Mobil 1 pressure
>> never fell below 45 psi.  And at idle the oil pressure falls to around >>
15-18 psi.,as opposed to around 20+ before. > >          I think
these observations are consistent with replacing a >          synthetic oil
with a non-synthetic.  The reduced internal >          friction of the
synthetic would account for the hotter >          coolant temp with the
Castrol.  In addition, I would assume >          the synthetic would have a
more consistent viscosity with >          temperature, as opposed to the
Castrol (resulting in the >          lower hot oil pressure).  I have also
consistently seen the >          lower hot oil pressure immediately after
changing the oil, >          due to the lack of oil-thickening sludge in the
fresh oil >          (this was simply a replacement of Castrol with more >
Castrol).  As you point out, the current readings are well >          within
family.  I, as you, am slightly surprised by the >          difference the
synthetic makes, however. > >          Joe Padavano >
jpada@orbital.com > >          66 442 >          68 W-30 >
69 H/O >          70 W-30


I have a question for you devotees of Castrol brand motor oil.  I've never
used it, but assume it is made from petroleum.  And not castor beans, as the
name seems to imply!

The Wiz

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª607
********************************
