To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #609


oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 13 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 609

70 olds ª's
Re: 70 olds ª's
Re: 70 olds ª's
Re: 70 olds ª's
Re: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)
Re: 70 olds ª's
Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question
Re: parts suppliers
Re: Steering Wheel
Re: limited slip questions
Re: 81 engine swap
Re: Re[2]: interesting observations
Re: parts suppliers
1973 442 Interior
Re: parts suppliers
Re: parts suppliers
Re: 1959 Dynamic 88
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: 70 olds ª's
Re: 81 engine swap
Re: 81 engine swap
Re: Crankcase tech quiz *update*
Re: 81 cutlass
test
Re: 1967 442
RE: Funny stuff
80's Engine swaps - Buick V6
Hot Rod Supernationals [non-olds]
Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
Re: dash covers
Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
Re: 81 engine swap
Olds-Rolls
was 64 parts
Re[2]: 81 engine swap
Re: Re[2]: 81 engine swap
442 parts
Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: headers, gaskets and such...
Re: Re[2]: interesting observations
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
69 quarter
Re: castle nut clip for spinde with speedo drive?
1990 Vintage
Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
69 Cutlass Radio
Re: 70 olds ª's
Re: 70 olds ª's
Testing again
Auto Electric Connectors Etc
New Member
Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)
Re: Olds-Rolls
Need 78-98 Moldings +
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: Re[2]: interesting observations
Re: WANTED 394 ENGINE PARTS
Re: New Member
Re: New Member
Re: Quadrajet Question
455 Engine question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: ASLY10A@prodigy.com (MR BOB M MASELLA)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 22:42:58 -0300
Subject: 70 olds ª's

Call Year One at 800 950-9503 and ask for tech support, they can read
any code and the do it quickly.  Also you can order one of the
catalogues and it also has all the information inside.  Bob '71 CS
Convert

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 22:13:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997 Yorcoy@AOL.COM wrote:
Well, Greg told me he's glad I'm back online, as he's been decoding these
lately.  Guess this is my chance to make up for some of my slacking.

> These are the ª's on my 70 supreme. Can anyone clue me in on what they mean?
> st  70-34257

(70) 1970 (3) Oldsmobile (4257) doesn't exist
                         (4287) Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe
                         (4267) Cutlass Supreme Convertible

> BF  14385  body

(BF) Fremont, Ca plant (14385) body sequence number

> TF  973  B80  25A Paint

(973) 9 & 7 denote the type of seat and the fabric, which I do not know.
3 is the color code for blue

(B80) is the option code for Roof Drip Moldings.  Guess you don't have the
convertible.

(25) Astro Blue (A) White vinyl top.  Sounds like a good lookin' car.

> 06C 48424  930403

(06) June (C) third week.  That's the build date.  Don't know what those
other numbers are


Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Jay Britt <Jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 22:26:45 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

Yorcoy@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> These are the ª's on my 70 supreme. Can anyone clue me in on what they mean?

> st  70-34257  BF  14385  body
1970 - Olds Cutlass Supreme 2-door HT -
Built in Fremont, CA
ª14385

> TF  973  B80  25A Paint
trim code=Blue vinyl
paint=Astro Blue w/ white vinyl top

> 06C 48424  930403
June 3rd week - ?? - ?? -

Hope this helps, some of the numbers are not listed in my book.
Jay Britt
'67 Cutlass Supreme
'89 Calais SL
- --
__________________________________________________________
Jay Britt                        3600 Communications
Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services
(757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
(757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
__________________________________________________________
This message was sent from a wireless data device using
3600 Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 22:31:11 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> Well, Greg told me he's glad I'm back online, as he's been decoding these
> lately.  Guess this is my chance to make up for some of my slacking.

Aw, geez! I was just getting ready to try it! Let's see... :)

> (70) 1970 (3) Oldsmobile (4257) doesn't exist

Yep. I was wondering about that ª also...

> (BF) Fremont, Ca plant (14385) body sequence number
> > TF  973  B80  25A Paint
>
> (973) 9 & 7 denote the type of seat and the fabric, which I do not know.
> 3 is the color code for blue

Pretty sure these are strato-bucket seats in blue vinyl.

> (B80) is the option code for Roof Drip Moldings.  Guess you don't have the
> convertible.

Didn't know that. Good call.

> (25) Astro Blue (A) White vinyl top.  Sounds like a good lookin' car.

Sure does! My favorite color combo...

> > 06C 48424  930403
>
> (06) June (C) third week.  That's the build date.  Don't know what those
> other numbers are

Option and accessory codes of some sort I'd guess, but not sure what they
are either...

Glad to have you back on duty, Paul!! Who needs Year One catalogs when
Mr. Hartlieb is on the job? :)


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:03:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)

buyin @$75, sellin @$300 - you should know me well enuf by now...

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:16:55 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

At 07:32 PM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>These are the ª's on my 70 supreme. Can anyone clue me in on what they mean?
>st  70-34257  BF  14385  body
>TF  973  B80  25A Paint
>06C 48424  930403
>
>Thanks
>Rick
>70 supreme
>70 conv.
>

Rick

        I've got a car that's very simular in color and options. Here we go.
70- 1970
3= Oldsmobile
42= Cutlass Supreme
57= Hardtop coupe (This code does exist) 87 is Cutlass S holiday coupe
BF= Fremont CA
TR 973= Light Blue Vinyl Bucket seats
B80= Exterior Drip moldings
25= Astro Blue
A= White Vinyl Top
06C= (Time built code) 06= June, C= Third week
48424= In plant job number
930403= ?

Just for some other information. Just because the car had bucket seats it
may not have had a console. That was an option. Bucket seats were standard
on the Cutlass Supreme. My cars is the same color with a black interior and
a black vinyl top. Let me know if there's more you would like to know.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:20:07 -0300
Subject: Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question

At 12:28 PM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>As I continue to pour over my build sheet, I find another perplexing
>question.  The car came with options B32, "Frt Floor Mat," and B33, "Rr Floor
>Mat."  As I have never seen a floor mat from a 1970 Cutlass, what exactly do
>they look like?  Where can I get my hands on some repros?  And are the mats
>colored to the carpeting, or a generic black, like they were in my dad's old
>Chevy?
>

The mats WILL be color coordinated with the interior. The original mats have
Oldsmobile embossed in them with grooves that run from the front to the back
of the car. There are companies repopping them but they are in black. There
may be other colors out there now.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:22:53 -0300
Subject: Re: parts suppliers

At 05:02 PM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a opinion on Oldsmobile USA parts Supply Ltd?
>Scott
>kozhill@titanlink.com
>

Scott

        I've dealt with them a few times. They are a little expensive but
they may be the only ones with certain parts. Their quality seems to be very
good.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 17:26:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

Dan Bennett wrote:
>
>
> Well, I'm not an expert but it is a three spoke wheel of brushed
> stainless steel.  The wheel is tan in color and is made of a rubber
> substance.  The wheel was is good shape, I just chose the Blue wheel
> because of my interior color.  I had never seen a three spoke before and
> only had seen a four spoke in pictures.  I put in on last week and fits
> and looks great, especially after the faded, cracked wheel is replaced.
>  The name and Phone ª of this guy is "Joe Esposito" and he can be
> reached at 602-404-1805(Phoenix,Arizona).  He was selling many hard to
> find Olds parts at a good price at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago,
> with a friend.  They both were 442 owners.  Good Luck all.
>
> Dan Bennett
> '72 Cutlass Supreme

Dan,

The '69 Olds 3-spoke wheel does not have brushed stainless spokes as
does the 4-spoke ones or the earlier 2 & 3-spoke wood grained wheels.
The wheels you are speaking of are probably the Buick ones w/the vinyl
rim.  These came in all colors & are very good looking.  '68-76 or so
Buicks borrrowed the design from Corvette.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:35:57 -0300
Subject: Re: limited slip questions

At 01:00 PM 4/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>P.S. The guy at the yard tried to pass the ratio off as a 3.73.  I told
>him that that only came in the 442 model.  He was kind of surprised, that
>I knew that.

Was this ABC Salvage?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:35:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 engine swap

At 01:39 PM 4/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I would like to know if anyone has dropped a 350 in a 81 cutlass.  What where
>the major obstacles and what to look for there is a 231 buick in it right
now. >What parts can be used off the car.  Will I need a new drive shaft?  How
about >the rear end.

You'll need the motor mounts for a 260 or 307 Cutlass, as well as an
appropriate exhaust and cooling system. The current tranny will bolt up, and
hence the driveshaft will too.

Of course, the TH200 would probably not live long, though the 7.5" rear
could survive a mild 350. A better transmission choice would be a TH350; in
that case I believe you'd need to shorten your driveshaft.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:35:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: interesting observations

At 02:49 PM 4/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.  The old
 >> oil was Mobil 1 ...I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my >>
water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and the >>
oil pressure drops to 40 psi after extended cruising.  The Mobil 1 pressure
>> never fell below 45 psi.  And at idle the oil pressure falls to around >>
15-18 psi.,as opposed to around 20+ before. > >          I think
these observations are consistent with replacing a >          synthetic oil
with a non-synthetic.  The reduced internal >          friction of the
synthetic would account for the hotter >          coolant temp with the
Castrol.  In addition, I would assume

Hmmm, was the Mobil 1 also 10W-30 weight? If it was 10W-40, then the drop in
oil pressure might be due to the thinner oil (I just changed from 10W-40
non-synthetic to 10W-30 Mobil 1, and noticed that my hot idle pressure is
down to 25psi, from 30psi)..
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:35:55 -0300
Subject: Re: parts suppliers

At 04:02 PM 4/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a opinion on Oldsmobile USA parts Supply Ltd?

Yes, we do.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Drew K. Bengert" <dk.bengert@sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 00:18:36 -0300
Subject: 1973 442 Interior

Does anyone know where I might be able to get at complete seat package
for my 73 442 Cutlass. I am interested in the swivel buckets, rear seats
in the Sadle color.

Thanks for your help.

Drew

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 00:46:11 -0300
Subject: Re: parts suppliers

OK< good one, care to elaborate?

- ----------
> From: Robert J. Barry <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: parts suppliers
> Date: Saturday, April 12, 1997 8:35 PM
>
> At 04:02 PM 4/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Does anyone have a opinion on Oldsmobile USA parts Supply Ltd?
>
> Yes, we do.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 00:51:14 -0300
Subject: Re: parts suppliers

Jim, thanks for the reply. I thought they were priced as good or better
than year one. Plus thet are listing more parts for my 64. 64 seems to be
to be the hard one to get parts.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 00:51:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 1959 Dynamic 88

In a message dated 97-04-11 20:52:16 EDT, Clayton and Arjen wrote:

<< > I wish that you were closer to me and then I would buy it... I'm sure
that
 > there is _somebody_ in Illinois that would give this car a home.  There's
 > probably half a dozen Chicagoans on the list.  Unfortunately though, I'm a
 > bit of a haul from you, being in Tennessee.
 >

 I hope you're right.  So far I have a realy hard time selling the car.
 Although, in the beginning I did try to get more for it.  Now time is
 running out, and I just do not want to junk the car.  It would be nice if
 I break even.  If you know anyone in the Illinois area....


Sorry guys, but after my own personal Easter weekend fiasco, I cannot even
venture to  eyeball the chariot in person for others, nevermind myself. If I
can interest any of my friends, I will try. Selling a car with only a lead on
the appropriate engine is tough. I hope you can find a good home for it.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago,IL

------------------------------

From: DanBSmith1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 01:05:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

Being a farmer, I can tell you that Oldsmobiles run great on natural gas.
 For many years the ª1 engine we used to power our irrigation wells were Olds
V-8s.  For relalibility, nothing could beat em.  Many times we would run them
for as long as 3 months straight wound up and loaded down for all they could
take. They were shut down once every 2 weeks for an oil change then went
right back running.  It was a sweet sound, running 2000 RPM under very heavy
load pulling a 6:5 gearhead, open headers, and powered by natural gas.  In
1976 when we found out that the 455 was going out of production, we (and
everybody else) bought up all we could.  Our last 455 gave it up in 1993
(after several overhauls).  We now use 454 Chevrolets but  we never found
anything better for this application than Olds.  They run great on natural
gas.    Dan

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 01:26:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, James & Joanne Chermack wrote:

> At 07:32 PM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:

> 42= Cutlass Supreme
> 57= Hardtop coupe (This code does exist) 87 is Cutlass S holiday coupe

Wow, my first day back on the list and I blew it.  When I decoded that
plate I was looking at my Colors and Interiors Album.  They list the
Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe as 4287.  But when I read the above, I got
out the Product Selling Features Album.  They do show the Holiday Coupe as
4257.  I can't believe Olds made an error like that in their showroom
sales tools.  Can I file some kind of a lawsuit?

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 02:02:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 engine swap

In a message dated 97-04-12 14:04:00 EDT, you write:

<< I would like to know if anyone has dropped a 350 in a 81 cutlass.  What
where
 the major obstacles and what to look for there is a 231 buick in it right
now.
 What parts can be used off the car.  Will I need a new drive shaft?  How
about
 the rear end.

 Thanks Doug >>

I'm not sure how well it goes with a 231 in there as I've put a 350 in place
of a 260 in my '81 Cutlass.  I would guess that you would need a set of
mounts for a 260 for that year (just order from the parts store, and tell 'em
you've got the 260, and you'll be fine).  as for the trans, I'm rather
unfamiliar with what is behind it, but that would be your first item to
pursue (identify transmission) and then it can be determined what you should
do with it.

As far as accessories, I'm sure you'll want to rob what ever is around from
the 350 as the stuff on the 231 won't fit (as far as I know).

BTW, don't hook up the computer, just use the HEI, and get a module from
about 1977, or so, and use that, it'll work fine.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 02:02:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 engine swap

In a message dated 97-04-12 14:22:32 EDT, you write:

<< Another closely-related question...I'm preparing to put an Olds 350 into
an
 '84 Cutlass that currently has an Olds 307...It appears that most everything
 will match up (driveshaft, transmission, mounts, etc.). But I was wondering
 if the acessories like A/C, Alt. and power steering will bolt on.>>

All items should swap over to the 350.

<< I'm also
 curious about headers. I'm trying to find a set that will work and haven't
 quite found anything suitable yet. A final question - I have a nicely built
 Ch*vy 350 sitting in the garage, but have opted to have an Olds 350 built
 for my Cutlass instead (I would like to keep this as high-quality, stock
 appearing project as possible)...Just for arguement's sake - what kind of
 work would have to be done to get a small block Chevy in there? Just
curious,
 but I don't plan on doing it.
 Otherwise the car is excellent....A southern car with T-Tops and power
 everything....A great car to work with (the previous owner didn't baby it
like
 I plan to)

 Thanks,
 Mike Twist >>

First, I'm not sure about the Headers, but I'm about to the point where I'll
start to look into them in the next few months, and see what's out there.  As
far as the Chevy-vs.-Olds. motor, the major thing will be the fact that most
likely if you use the Chevy, your transmission won't work for it, and you'd
need to get one with the proper bellhousing bolt pattern (for the Chevy).

Just go with the Olds.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 02:02:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Crankcase tech quiz *update*

In a message dated 97-04-12 04:32:38 EDT, you write:

<< I'll have to do some more diagnosis later,
 but as for the crankcase tech quiz, the answer ~apparantly~ wasn't in the
 intake after all :(  When I got the engine, it was still on the crate, it
 had been overhauled (semi-professionally) and never fired.  That overhaul
 was necessitated by a broken piston at 5000 miles on another overhaul. (This
 one's got about 5000, too. >>

Hmmm.... Ya know, I suppose it still could be the intake...   Lessee, the
gasket is shot (intake to head) and it finally starts really sucking oil into
the cylinder.  The cylinder(s) may have been marginally firing until now, and
next thing you know, they get clogged up good cause there was so much oil
getting in.  Your pressure would change at all, unless it sucked ALOT of oil
in.  Maybe while all this was going on, you literally CACKED the inside of
the cylinder walls, head, and piston top, and now it's got some really high
compression in those cylinders, and knocking like crazy.  I'd guess you could
get a good amount of noise if it was knocking bad enough.  What ever the
problem was before, it shouldn't have happened again, since you wouldn't
reuse the same parts, and if you did, they wouldn't last that long anyways.
 Besides, if you were to melt a piston, wouldn't there be some major problems
involved with this?  (ie., more than just knocking...  like major
noise.....from crap floating around in the chamber, ugghhh.... hate to think
about that one...)

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 02:08:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 cutlass

In a message dated 97-04-12 19:51:19 EDT, you write:

<< I just bought a 81 cutlass with a pretty nice body.  The motor is shot.  I
have
 a 1970 gold 350 and am planning on putting it in this car.  The car
currently
 has a v-6.  I know that the swap is possible.  I am wondering if I will need
to
 replace the drive shaft, I know I will need a new tranny also but will the
 drive shaft be the right length.  also I would like to know what the easiest
 way is to line up where the new motor mounts need to be placed.

 Can anyone help me

 just getting ready!!!!!
 thanks
 Doug >>

Boy will you be happy with this change.  The car will fly compared to the old
motor.  I believe the holes for the mounts should be in the frame already (I
could be wrong though, hell, they might both be in the same place for all I
know).  as far as the trans is concerned, it will depend upon what is in
there now.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 03:11:03 -0300
Subject: test

kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Sixty7442@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 06:19:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 1967 442

O.K., Bill. Let me rephrase my original comment. I *like* vinyl tops ONLY
when they are in mint condition. If the top is in poor condition, the car
looks disgusting.

Brendan
(looking for a 67)

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 07:19:22 -0300
Subject: RE: Funny stuff

>>
>>I had a really nice run with a 1985 Thunderbird with a 351 Cleveland.  I
>was sitting at the light in town and he rolled up next to me running open
>headers, revved it a few times.  I just rolled my head over and told him he
>was asking for trouble.  His buddies were just leafing.  I am sitting here
>at the light in my '72 442 W30, 455, 750 holly, 2" hookers, and a 3 speed
>auto with a really good B&M shift kit.  This guy was in for it.  I dropped
>it into low figured I had better shift it tight, ya never know.  On the
>green light I mashed the peddle, didn't bother torquing it at all.  Right
>off I had three car lengths.  While I was in 1st he had already hit second,
>I slammed second, the 295/50's broke loose at 45mps,
                                               ~~~~^~?   Wow!
Is that miles per second?  ~Very~ impressive indeed!  :)






by this time I had him
>by 6 car lengths, he hit 4th..  I dropped it in 3rd, and by now I am hitting
>80 and the tires squawked again into 3rd :>  This was nice.  And it was
>over.  3rd started to wined and he was done.  about 15 cars back..  What a
>shame it was.  At the next light, he just looked strait ahead.  His friends
>were yelling "NICE CAR"..  I just drop it in low and burned off another 500
>miles off the tires and was gone.. :>  This is my last race..


Too bad, sounds like the start of a good season ('course parts are cheaper
that way...)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 318 BigBlock
(very)odd-fireV6
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 07:19:27 -0300
Subject: 80's Engine swaps - Buick V6

     Well, we seem to have a lot of threads on engine swaps going on here,
so I'll post one more question that's come up in the past (and I've often
been curious as well)  A few have asked about swapping the V6 (mid 80's
Cutlass's) for a V8, usually Olds V8, sometimes an inferior replacement of a
little known brand (starts with a "C" I think...)  Does anyone know if the
Buick V8's will bolt up to the Buick v6's mounts?  Or what mod's will be
necessary?  Im completely impressed with the responsiveness and performance
of my GS 455, and could not argue against having one in an Olds, either.
(Although the Olds 455 ~would~ be more appropriate)  As long as there's no
bowties, anyway...

No news on the Rockit today.  Drove it again (OK, parked it closer to the
curb, but it ~does~ still drive...)  Drove the Toro and the '83 around the
block (God I miss those T-tops!) and retinted the driver's door window on
the '83.  Might get tires for the Toro next week so I can still have a few
backup cars to rely on:)  If its nice tomorrow, I'll pull the rocker cover
off the odd side and see what the valves look like (ie, how many are ~there~)

Better go, it's 430 AM, and its about bedtime...  :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 318 BigBlock
(very)odd-fireV6
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 10:29:26 -0300
Subject: Hot Rod Supernationals [non-olds]

The first promo hit the paper for the Nationals.

Will run May 30 through June 1 at the Canfield Fair Grounds
Canfield, OH.  Usually cars, vendors, swap with a drive to
A & W in Boardman at night.  People line the streets in
Boardman to see all the cars cruising all evening!  Last year
they repaved the streets with rubber! [I don't think the police
will allow it this year due to the complaints!]  Will send
more details as they become available to anyone wanting them!

Anyone read about Paul Newman being in the partnership
to buy a multi-car car dealership - one being Olds?

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 10:32:56 -0300
Subject: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

I hope someone who owns a '68 or '69 Cutlass with a rear defogger can
help me out. I want to install one in my '68 and have picked up the
original setup. The switch mounts on the underside of a ledge on the
dashboard that juts out above the radio. Since I have to cut a hole, I
need it to be in the right place. Could someone measure the distances
from the right side of the vertical side of the dash cavity, and from the
front edge of the ledge, to the sides of the switch bezel (or if you want
to drop the switch out of the dash for me, you can give me the exact
location of the hole!)?

I'm also wondering how this thing works. It has a 2-speed switch for low
and high fan speeds, which implies a resistor somewhere in the circuit.
But there's only one input connector on the blower, so it isn't in there.
The switch has 2 leads coming out of it, so I suppose the resistor might
be in the switch itself. Somewhere in between these leads and the time it
gets to the blower, the wires must get spliced together. Does anyone know
where the resistor might be? The wiring diagrams in my factory service
manual don't even mention the rear defogger, and the only reference to it
is for installing it in the full-size cars.

Thanks in advance.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 10:41:19 -0300
Subject: Re: dash covers

Stephen,
You do know that you can paint your dash a whole lot cheaper than $500. Email
me at my address, and we'll talk.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 09:25:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      This is rather non-Olds, so please reply by e-mail so as not to
>      clutter the list more than I already am.
>
>      My girlfriend recently inherited an old WW-II era army jeep.  Seems
>      like it's in pretty good shape too.  They said it ran when it was last
>      turned off 10 years ago.  Can anyone here point me toward any
>      resources where I might learn about this critter some more?  I'd like
>      to find out as much as I can about it before attempting to bring it
>      back to life.  Perhaps a web site, or a mailing list would be nice.  I
>      think this thing might make a good parts chaser for the Olds :-)
>
>      Thanks!
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com


Tom, I know there is a club for restoring army trucks,jeeps ect. I know
you can find them on the web. Good luck. If you need more info let me
know.

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 09:53:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 engine swap

OL>At 01:39 PM 4/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
OL>>I would like to know if anyone has dropped a 350 in a 81 cutlass.  What
whe OL>>the major obstacles and what to look for there is a 231 buick in it
right n OL>>What parts can be used off the car.  Will I need a new drive
shaft?  How ab OL>>the rear end.

OL>You'll need the motor mounts for a 260 or 307 Cutlass, as well as an
OL>appropriate exhaust and cooling system. The current tranny will bolt up,
and OL>hence the driveshaft will too.

OL>Of course, the TH200 would probably not live long, though the 7.5" rear
OL>could survive a mild 350. A better transmission choice would be a TH350; in
OL>that case I believe you'd need to shorten your driveshaft.
OL>_______________________________________________________
OL>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
OL>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918


Stock drive shaft from th200 will work with th350. I know from
experience.

Daren

daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: BigEJ@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 10:49:30 -0300
Subject: Olds-Rolls

You guys have never looked into the wiring in a Rolls Royce have you?  The
power windows for example, have 8 wires.  Two to each window.  Yes, each has
a separate ground, I suppose they consider the chassis to be the electrical
netural!  And they use wire of sufficient size too.

Yes, actually I have, many times. :-)    In the 70's I used to run the
service operations for a Olds-Cadillac-Rolls Royce store.  (Lots of fun, a
great time to be involved with cars and car people).   We discovered that the
windows on those Rolls were not capable of operating during the roughly 80%
of the year known as "not summer" here in New England.  The culprit??
  Undersized wiring to the window motors!!   The cure??  Two very expensive
relays per window to jumper additional electrical power from the lighter
circuits to the window circuits.

Everything that Rolls made was a thing of beauty to look at, but extremely
unreliable in the real world.  The fuses, for example, were made of a ceramic
like substance and when one failed instead of replacing it, a roll of "fuse
wire" was supplied and the mechanic rebuilt the fuse.  To compare
Rolls-Royces mechanicals and electrics to Olds of that period is grossly
unfair to Rolls.

Actually when compared to the cars and technology available at the time
(50'sthru 70"s) Olds had few peers.

Another note:  If you look carefully at Rolls-Royces from that time period,
you'll find more than just familiar transmissions.  Names like Figidaire,
Saganaw, and Delco also show up!!  Almost like a really expensive Olds,
without the great engine?? :-)

Just couldn't resist that crack about wire size!!

Elephant Engine Ernie

67-442
50- 88

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 11:16:06 -0300
Subject: was 64 parts

Vic: Having trouble with my mail, If your out there, I need a reply
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 11:21:10 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: 81 engine swap

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, Robert J. Barry wrote:
> >I would like to know if anyone has dropped a 350 in a 81 cutlass.  What
where > >the major obstacles and what to look for there is a 231 buick in it
right now. > >What parts can be used off the car.  Will I need a new drive
shaft?  How about > >the rear end. > > Of course, the TH200 would probably
not live long, though the 7.5" rear > could survive a mild 350. A better
transmission choice would be a TH350; in > that case I believe you'd need to
shorten your driveshaft. Actually, T200 and T350's withthe right sized
tailshaft can use the same driveshaft, though they are approx 1/2 inch
different legths.  Although, there is 3 different lengths of T350, I've been
told!

As far as motor mounts are concerned, the easiest way, I think, is to
mount the mounts on the motor, hook up the tranny, set the whole thing in
place and level, tach weld/ mark the spot where the mounts sit, remove
motor, weld, drill/bolt mounts in solid, and set the motor back in.  I've
seen this done in an 81 cutlass getting a 455 (Not a good setup, in this
case, it was all show-no go, and didn't like the weight in the front that
much)

> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 11:43:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 81 engine swap

In a message dated 97-04-13 10:24:27 EDT, you write:

<< As far as motor mounts are concerned, the easiest way, I think, is to
 mount the mounts on the motor, hook up the tranny, set the whole thing in
 place and level, tach weld/ mark the spot where the mounts sit, remove
 motor, weld, drill/bolt mounts in solid, and set the motor back in.  I've
 seen this done in an 81 cutlass getting a 455 (Not a good setup, in this
 case, it was all show-no go, and didn't like the weight in the front that
 much) >>

That's rather interesting, must have been the way it was set up.  we have
quite a few people on the Olds. list that have the same, or very similar
set-ups.  (455's, or 425's in 80-87 Cutlasses)  I would think this would be
very quick as the 350 I have in mine is rather worn out, and even with the
2.29 gears in the back it still gets up and moves quite well.  (I have plans
to put in a "warmed" 350 before summer really hits, and I've found a place
where I can get a 425, or a 455 (either with "C" head), and I'm just getting
some money together to "save" one of these for future use, now to decide
which one.....)

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 12:04:28 -0300
Subject: 442 parts

I'm a 17yr. old new to oldsmobile restoration, I have an original '71
442 hood that I replaced with an original ram air hood, I also have 3
consols, 1 of them is for the duelgate shifter.  I have someone that
said they might be interested in buying these parts, but he is more
knowledable than I am.  I was wondering if anyone could tell a fair
price to ask for the hood and the consols.  All the ocnsols are in fair
condition, one of them has a small crack towards the bottom.

Thanks,

Bryan Bodine
'70 Cutlass S W-31
'71 442

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 06:11:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I hope someone who owns a '68 or '69 Cutlass with a rear defogger can
> help me out. I want to install one in my '68 and have picked up the
> original setup. The switch mounts on the underside of a ledge on the
> dashboard that juts out above the radio. Since I have to cut a hole, I
> need it to be in the right place. Could someone measure the distances
> from the right side of the vertical side of the dash cavity, and from the
> front edge of the ledge, to the sides of the switch bezel (or if you want
> to drop the switch out of the dash for me, you can give me the exact
> location of the hole!)?
>
> I'm also wondering how this thing works. It has a 2-speed switch for low
> and high fan speeds, which implies a resistor somewhere in the circuit.
> But there's only one input connector on the blower, so it isn't in there.
> The switch has 2 leads coming out of it, so I suppose the resistor might
> be in the switch itself. Somewhere in between these leads and the time it
> gets to the blower, the wires must get spliced together. Does anyone know
> where the resistor might be? The wiring diagrams in my factory service
> manual don't even mention the rear defogger, and the only reference to it
> is for installing it in the full-size cars.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

Greg,

The dash is made for up to 3 switches above the radio.  Choose the
center one - it may be marked on the back.  The wiring is in 2 parts w/a
resister wire as part of the wiring.  One wire does both speeds.  The
other lead is the hot wire from a the fuse block to the switch.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 13:22:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

Greg; in my books there is a fan control switch between the cig. lighter
and the heater controls. Looks to be right in the middle. Lots of times
there is a mark or dimple on the dash or chrome plate( on the back) where
the factory had to punch it out.
The fan switch leads should go to a resistor, the low feeds through it on
low. And the high bi-passes it, on high. The location...............?
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Jim Hoekendijk <jim.hoekendijk@pi.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 14:10:12 -0300
Subject: How to remove window handle regulator?

I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the doorpanels
but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the window
handle regulator.
Any suggestions?

Jim Hoekendijk, '64 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Gregory M Zimmerman <gzimmerm@runet.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 14:15:08 -0300
Subject: Re: headers, gaskets and such...

>
> Clayton Pierce wrote:
> >
> > Okay all, I'm going to be installing my headers soon, probably within the
> > next week or two, and I need to buy parts.  First off, what gaskets etc.
> > do I need exactly?  Anybody have any brand preferences that they would
>

My local speed shop has a special Felpro high performance header gasket.
I don't have the part numbers on me (I'm at school), but they are worth
every penny.  Use RTV Ultra Copper sealant and follow the instructions.
I also found it's worth it to buy Summit Racing's stainless header bolt
kit (about $10).  They have reduced sized heads so a 7/16" wrech fits
them and they have shoulders to squash the washers down.

greg

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 14:35:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: interesting observations

> I have a question for you devotees of Castrol brand motor oil.  I've
never
> used it, but assume it is made from petroleum.  And not castor beans, as
the
> name seems to imply!
>
> The Wiz
Wiz When I worked at a Fiat dealership in 1972 we had to use Castrol in
their cars as was required by Fiat. It was in a ugly green and white can
and I understood it was made Castor beans. I think they also made a popular
2 stroke oil  that the dirt bike guys used. I guess the Castrol oil that is
popular today is made by the same company and is petroleum based. I saw a
can of the other stuff somewhere just the other day but I can't remember
where.I wonder if they still make it? If I am wrong about any of this
please correct me.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 14:43:08 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Jim Hoekendijk wrote:
> I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the doorpanels
> but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the window
> handle regulator.
> Any suggestions?

There's a spring clip that holds the handle to the regulator. I picked up
a tool to remove them. It's a stamped flat metalthing, sort of "Y"
shaped. The legs of the Y push the clip out of the slot in the handle.
They're pretty cheap around here, and fairly common. Perhaps in Europe
they use a different system so they may be rare. In a pinch I have been
able to get them off using a pair of screwdrivers to push on the clip.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:13:13 -0300
Subject: 69 quarter

This message is to Jim Chermack

Where have you been?  I'm still waiting on an answer about shipment for
the 69 quarter panel.  Did you recieve payment for it yet?  I sent a
check for $325 Monday the 7th.  Please respond.

Thanks, Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:21:52 -0300
Subject: Re: castle nut clip for spinde with speedo drive?

> I'm sorry I can't help you with your fastner problem, but it does bring
up a
> question.
>
> What postwar years/models ran the speedo off the front wheel.
>
> The Wiz is Concerned
66 & 68 Delta's both did. I don't know what else
Walter

------------------------------

From: TJBOYTOY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:00:01 -0300
Subject: 1990 Vintage

I have a 1990 Olds Cutlas Convertible and I would like to find ou how many
convertibles were made in 1990. I was told a under 500 were made but I cannot
confirm.If anyone can help me I would appreciate it.  Thankyou very much!

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:13:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)

     I remember when i was a teenager and was working on my uncles alfalfa
farm,  he gave me a 1948 Studebaker 1 ton truck to tinker with in my spare
time.  The only problem was that the engine was seized up solid.  My solution
to the problem was to take the sparkplugs out and fill the cylinders up with
deisel fuel/oil once a day for about a week.  The 6 volt power system still
wasn't strong enough to crank over the engine after this simple process so we
towed the truck to the top of a hill and coasted down while engaging and
disengaging the clutch --  it definitly loosened up the engine, and when we
were finally able to start the thing it belched smoke as though that was what
it was made to do --  the coolest part of it though was that the engine was a
Chrysler flathead 6 that probably barely made enough power to pull the truck
around on its own even when it was running good.


                                       J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:44:41 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

Jim Hoekendijk wrote:
>
> I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the doorpanels
> but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the window
> handle regulator.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Jim Hoekendijk, '64 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser

Jim,

Go to an auto parts store and they make a tool that does this, it is
really easy to us. The only thing that you have to do is push it behind
the window handle and push the retainer clip off.

Bryan Bodine

'70 Cutlass S W-31
'71 442

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:36:38 -0300
Subject: 69 Cutlass Radio

I'm searching for an AM-FM stereo factory radio, and mounting brackets,
for a 69 Cutlass.  I can't find anything in the scrapyards except AM.
Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 17:14:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

thanks for the info
Rick

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 17:23:45 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

Thanks, it does have a console between the seats. I just bought a conv. 1970
Cutlass, I'll need some help with those ª's in the future.

------------------------------

From: Tom Williams <"tjwilli@megavision.com"@megavision.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 17:44:28 -0300
Subject: Testing again

test

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 19:48:40 -0300
Subject: Auto Electric Connectors Etc

Waytek Inc, PO Box 690, Chanhassen Mn. 55317-0690, National, Minnesota &
Canada toll free tel 800 328 2724 & fax 1 800 858 0319 or 612 949
0765/0965 for Minneapolis-St. Paul area-take small or big orders-wire,
cable, terminals, corregated loom and fittings, auto fuses and holders
etc, 1 to six terminal connectors regular locking & weatherproof + amp
brand, switches, automotive circuit breakers, grommets etc--and yes-even
duct tape.  They have nice catalog (ª208 latest)-take phone
orders-credit cards-ship UPS & RPS & common carrier-have min 100 pcs or
$5 whichever is less-$25 minimum or they charge a few bucks extra ($2-3)
for small orders-have answering machine for after hours-Don't know how
their prices compare to others but they have neat stuff and neatness
counts in electric work! Catalog has prices in it which is nice-copper
prices fluctuate with market. They also provide some technical
assistance. Havn't used them in a few years (catª205) but just ordered a
new one, no charge. Try a catalog.

Kevin O'Brien
78-98 2D Diesel

------------------------------

From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@megavision.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 17:54:29 -0300
Subject: New Member

HI All
   My name is Tom Williams. I am the owner of a 1970 olds W-31.
It has a blue exterior with white stripes and white interior. It is a
4 speed car with the 3:91 posi rearend. It is a numbers matching car
with the correct carb, intake, rear, block, distributor ect...I have
been an oldsmobile owner of one model or another for approx: 20 years. I
would appreciate any information on W-31 or oldsmobile cars.

Thanks,

Tom Williams
1970 W-31

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:06:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Starting an old vehicle (non olds)

At 09:25 AM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Tom Lentz wrote:
>>
>>      This is rather non-Olds, so please reply by e-mail so as not to
>>      clutter the list more than I already am.
>>
>>      My girlfriend recently inherited an old WW-II era army jeep.  Seems
>>      like it's in pretty good shape too.  They said it ran when it was last
>>      turned off 10 years ago.  Can anyone here point me toward any
>>      resources where I might learn about this critter some more?  I'd like
>>      to find out as much as I can about it before attempting to bring it
>>      back to life.  Perhaps a web site, or a mailing list would be nice.  I
>>      think this thing might make a good parts chaser for the Olds :-)
>>
>>      Thanks!
>>
>>      Tom Lentz
>>      tlentz@teknon.com
>
>
>Tom, I know there is a club for restoring army trucks,jeeps ect. I know
>you can find them on the web. Good luck. If you need more info let me
>know.
>

Actually there are two, the Military Vehicle Collectors club, and another
that was started in a battle with the management of the MVCC.  There is also
are also at least two Willys clubs, but one the W.O.K.R. devotes itself to
pre-1942 vehicles, which does not include many jeeps.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:11:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds-Rolls

At 10:49 AM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>You guys have never looked into the wiring in a Rolls Royce have you?  The
>power windows for example, have 8 wires.  Two to each window.  Yes, each has
>a separate ground, I suppose they consider the chassis to be the electrical
>netural!  And they use wire of sufficient size too.
>
>Yes, actually I have, many times. :-)    In the 70's I used to run the
>service operations for a Olds-Cadillac-Rolls Royce store.  (Lots of fun, a
>great time to be involved with cars and car people).   We discovered that the
>windows on those Rolls were not capable of operating during the roughly 80%
>of the year known as "not summer" here in New England.  The culprit??
>  Undersized wiring to the window motors!!   The cure??  Two very expensive
>relays per window to jumper additional electrical power from the lighter
>circuits to the window circuits.
>
>Everything that Rolls made was a thing of beauty to look at, but extremely
>unreliable in the real world.  The fuses, for example, were made of a ceramic
>like substance and when one failed instead of replacing it, a roll of "fuse
>wire" was supplied and the mechanic rebuilt the fuse.  To compare
>Rolls-Royces mechanicals and electrics to Olds of that period is grossly
>unfair to Rolls.
>
>Actually when compared to the cars and technology available at the time
>(50'sthru 70"s) Olds had few peers.
>
>Another note:  If you look carefully at Rolls-Royces from that time period,
>you'll find more than just familiar transmissions.  Names like Figidaire,
>Saganaw, and Delco also show up!!  Almost like a really expensive Olds,
>without the great engine?? :-)
>
>Just couldn't resist that crack about wire size!!
>
>Elephant Engine Ernie
>
>67-442
>50- 88
>
>
That was very nicely put.  The No. 1 culprit in a R-R and Jags too, is
Lucas.  They should go out and buy some old cheap Delco stuff, and see how
to make electrics that work, and are inexpensive too.

And you know why Brits drink warm beer?  Lucas makes their 'friges.

Also a friend of mine, Leonard Davis, an R-R and V-W expert said the number
one reason that the windows cause trouble in a R-R is they are are seldom
used, as in they are always up; although occasionally the drivers window
will operate most of the time because it does get some use.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 20:10:47 -0300
Subject: Need 78-98 Moldings +

Need 3 pc steel moldings for 78-98 regency 2D-pieces that separate vinyl
top from body-any color but must be straight & rust free. Also 1/4 trim,
rocker trim. + looking for lead on who may have some diesel parts, ie
thermister, glow plug module etc. Thank you.

Kevin O'Brien
78-98 2D Diesel

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:21:14 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

At 02:10 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the doorpanels
>but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the window
>handle regulator.
>Any suggestions?
>
>Jim Hoekendijk, '64 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser
>
>
>
This retainer is a horseshoe shaped spring.  There is a tool that sill slip
it out, by pushing on the tines and backing it away from the shaft.  It is a
very inexpesnive tool, and I would suggest buying one.  Go to a GM dealer
and ask.  I bought one 35 years ago, and still use it.  When I bought it I
was interested in removing the handels from a recently acquired '30 Chevy,
and low and behold the '30s handles were held on by the same machanism, save
it was smaller.  My dad had the machine shop at work make a smaller version
which worked perfectly.

Also, when the retainer is out, hit the handel square on with a rubber
mallet, before trying to remove it.  It makes it much easier to remove.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:38:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: interesting observations

At 02:35 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>> I have a question for you devotees of Castrol brand motor oil.  I've
>never
>> used it, but assume it is made from petroleum.  And not castor beans, as
>the
>> name seems to imply!
>>
>> The Wiz
>Wiz When I worked at a Fiat dealership in 1972 we had to use Castrol in
>their cars as was required by Fiat. It was in a ugly green and white can
>and I understood it was made Castor beans. I think they also made a popular
>2 stroke oil  that the dirt bike guys used. I guess the Castrol oil that is
>popular today is made by the same company and is petroleum based. I saw a
>can of the other stuff somewhere just the other day but I can't remember
>where.I wonder if they still make it? If I am wrong about any of this
>please correct me.
>Walter
>

Thanks Walt,

WWI aero engines used Castor bean oil, and one of my uncles in WWI, and he
said that it had a very interesting smell when it was hot too.

This is just one of those curiosities.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:40:31 -0300
Subject: Re: WANTED 394 ENGINE PARTS

> I AM REBUIDING A 61 394 AND NEED FOLLOWING:
>
> PISTONS, RINGS, MAIN-ROD-CAM BEARINGS, TIMING SET, PISTON PIN BUSHINGS,
> LIFTERS, CAM SHAFT AND OIL PUMP.
>
> PERFER TO GET FROM ALL ONE SOURE
>
> BUT I WONT BE PICKY

When I rebuilt my 394, I bought a lot of my stuff from Kanter,
because they had good prices, and I coul'nt even get most of the stuff
locally.  The only things around here were the timing chain, and rod
bearings, both Sealed Power.  They were a better price too (kinda
strange).  I found both the quality and service from Kanter to be great.
They got my stuff to me on time and it all worked just fine.  Anyway, if
you have any questions, let me know, I might be able to help.

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 12:58:05 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Tom Williams wrote:
>
> HI All
>    My name is Tom Williams. I am the owner of a 1970 olds W-31.
> It has a blue exterior with white stripes and white interior. It is a
> 4 speed car with the 3:91 posi rearend. It is a numbers matching car
> with the correct carb, intake, rear, block, distributor ect...I have
> been an oldsmobile owner of one model or another for approx: 20 years. I
> would appreciate any information on W-31 or oldsmobile cars.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Williams
> 1970 W-31

Welcome Tom,

I have a 1968 442 relative of your car.  In checking, I find that we are
fresh out of W31 information.  Call back in about 10 days & we will have
replentished our stock.  It seems that there has been a run on this
stuff.  We have a deal on W33 & W34 stuff though.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

PS. Just kidding; those cars are very rare.  Aren't they usually called
Ralley 350's?  You're a lucky  man.

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 19:15:27 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Tom Williams wrote:
>
> HI All
>    My name is Tom Williams. I am the owner of a 1970 olds W-31.
> It has a blue exterior with white stripes and white interior. It is a
> 4 speed car with the 3:91 posi rearend. It is a numbers matching car
> with the correct carb, intake, rear, block, distributor ect...I have
> been an oldsmobile owner of one model or another for approx: 20 years. I
> would appreciate any information on W-31 or oldsmobile cars.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Williams
> 1970 W-31
Tom,

I am 17 years old and own a '71 442, my dad has a '70 W-31.  You
mentioned you would like some information on your car, we have alot of
information, exactly what are you looking for?  My dad has owned our car
for 27 years, he bought it used in October of '70.  It is an all
matching nubers car.  100% original, my dad always seems to like telling
everyone that it even has the original floor mats, I don't know why
though.  I bought my car about 2 weeks ago, and am working on getting it
"road worthy".  Which means sandblasting, brakes, getting the hood
painted and retrieving some parts that are missing.  I need to replace
the timing chain and radiator.  After I get all these things done, it
will be ok to drive.  I am going to attend Wyoming Tech. there I will do
a complete restoration on the car.

Bryan Bodine
'70 Cutlass S W-31 (My dads)
'71 442 (Mine)

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 13:15:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Quadrajet Question

hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM wrote:
>
>
> Is this correct?  If so it seems as though this piston is pretty loose in
the > cylinder and that there would be leakage (blowby?) which prevents the
leaning > out from occuring.  I've opened up a couple of different Qjets and
they all seem > to be rather loose in this area.  Is there a repair procedure
for this? I've > never seen any mention of this anywhere. > > hans

Hans,

This description is correct in my estimation.  The piston is loose in
every Q-Jet I have ever seen.  The factory must factor this in when they
calculate the vacuum needed for it's operation.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Drew K. Bengert" <dk.bengert@sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 19:21:37 -0300
Subject: 455 Engine question

I recently purchased a 73 442 with a 455. The car has a 750 holley
double pumper card and edelbrook intake. I recently started the car and
stared to hear a cracking or pinging noise every couple of seconds. It
sounded like the noise was coming from the exhaust. I shut the car off,
took of the air breather, started the car again. This time the noise
started, next I saw a flame coming from the top of the carb. I shut the
car off, caught my breath and watched as the flame slowly went out. Is
it possible that an intake valve is sticking open causing a backfire.

Also, does anyone know of vacum lines that need to be hooked up for this
combination to work properly. The guy that I bought the car from, only
had the carb on the car for a day or two.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Drew

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª609
********************************
