To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #683


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 20 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 683

71' 442
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Stolen Tint!??!
'77 442 parts
Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor
Re: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint
Re: 1977 442
61 Olds F/S in North Central Montana
Re: HOT ROD article
307's Roller Cam in a 455???
Re: HOT ROD article
A sticky problem
Unbounce: Cam Walking
Apology (was Re: 71' 442)
TH200 transmission
SENDING PICTURES TO THE LIST
Re: Differential ID
'68 442, '70 convertible
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Re: Exhaust Hanger Material
Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor
Re: '67 442 ?'s
Re: '67 442 ?'s
WTB: pre-74 98 Florida
Re: Apology (was Re: 71' 442)
Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
any 70's out there
Re: TH200 transmission
Re: '67 442 ?'s
Re: '77 442 parts
Re: A sticky problem
Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???
Re: HOT ROD article
Re: TH200 transmission
Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters
Re: '67 442 ?'s
Re: TH200 transmission
Re: Need clutch fan test
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Re: HOT ROD article
65 CUTLASS/ F-85
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Re: HOT ROD article
Olds at Hot Rod Power Tour...
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Re: welder question (Whoa! There it is! :)
Re: Axle Bearing Failure
Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor
Re: HOT ROD article
Brake Info
Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???
Olds Chat Link

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:36:11 -0300
Subject: 71' 442

Did those pictures even get thru? I'm pretty new at this.

------------------------------

From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:48:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

The only '77 H/O prototype was for sale a couple months back in
Hemmings....I believe the owner wanted about $15,000 for it.  Black w/gold,
403, Hurst hatches, rear quarter windows filled......sorry, no blue ones!


>1 proto type Hurst/Olds made which may still be in existance from sktchy
>info I,ve seen on net. Supposed to be on US east coast.
>It was black with gold accents.
>
>The one your looking must be a fake. The prototype had rear quarter windows
>filled. It was based on Cutlass S model like all 73-75. Very little known
>about the proto type.
>
>I take it you are in Manitoba.
>
>Marvin Friesen
>Vancouver, BC
>
>1976 Cutlass SOne Owner
>1976 Cutlass S 2nd Owner
>1983 Delta 88 One owner
>
>
>
>----------
>> From: Clark Rempel <amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
>> Date: Monday, May 19, 1997 4:18 PM
>>
>> Hello, my name is Clark, and I am new to the list.  I'm currently
>> considering the purchase of, what I am told, is a '77 Hurst/Olds.  The
>> current owner (the second) seems to know very little about the car: a
>> medium blue Cutlass with light blue body length "Hurst/Olds - W30"
>> stripes.  According to the current owner the car was repainted several
>> years ago and the stripes re-applied with an aftermarket stencil kit.  I
>> have looked the car over thoroughly (it's in beautiful shape) and the
>> stripes appear to be its only distinguishing feature.  Is there any sure
>> fire method of authenticating the car as a genuine Hurst?  Serial number?
>
>>  Any special parts to look for?
>> Thanks in advance - Clark Rempel   (amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca)
>>
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:57:03 -0300
Subject: Stolen Tint!??!

>Y'know, that reminds me of a guy who went to my high school.  He installed
>window tint on his 80-something mustang.  It looked crappy and had it's fair
>share of bubbles.  (as is tradition with most mustangs that have glass
>tinted by a 16 year-old)  He certainly wasn't the most adept person in the
>world, and he installed the tint film on the *outside* of the window.  Well,
>somebody stole it.  Helped themselves and peeled it off without a trace.  It
>was pretty funny at the time, anyway.

At the time???  It still is!!!   :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "C.K.G-B" <bluffin@netins.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:50:29 -0300
Subject: '77 442 parts

Let me try again.  Iam interested in any thing for a '77 442.
Help if you can.

Chris Blumenstein - Iowa

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:57:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

>Also, what is the difference between "MAX" and "NORM" on the air
>comditioner?  I know that on NORM, the compressor cycles on and off...I
>can't tell if it cycles on and off on the MAX setting.  Will this cause
>premature compressor failure if I drive to work (~14 miles) with the
>compressor on MAX?  Also, a related question...what if, hypothetically
>speaking ;-), I _DID_ drive to work with the thing on MAX (those t-tops
>~really~ let in the heat..I should change my license plates to
>'GRENHOS').  Does this mean that my AC is in needing of a charge?


The MAX is a recirculation position.  Instead of taking hot air from outside
and cooling it, it takes the cooler (drier) air from inside and cools it
more.  Don't worry.  Many people use their A/C constantly.  The biggest
concern is engine temperature.  (The A/C imposes quite a heat load on the
front end, especially when run constantly, ~especially~ at idle...)  The
other concern is fuel economy.  Period.

If your AC can blow out air that's roughly 35 to 40' F, on a good, hot day,
without fading away after half an hour or so, the charge is probably fine.
If it can't get colder than 50 coming out of the vents, a recharge is
needed.  It's a good idea to have it checked out anyway.

The compressor will cycle on and off in any A/C position (MAX, NORM, Bi-Lev,
and DEF)  Notice the other two (vent & heat) say economy above them?  That's
why.  The compressor runs until the refrigerant reaches a certain low
pressure.  Then it turns off and lets the system equalize, until the low
side reaches a predetermined higher pressure.  Then it comes back on to suck
it down again.  It's a thermostatic action that maintains a constant
temperature/pressure at the evaporator.  You're not going to lunch out the
compressor by keeping it running, unless there's no oil in it.  If there's
any question, an A/C shop can shoot some A/C oil in there for you with or
without a recharge.

As for the T-tops and the excess heat in there:  GM put air conditioners in
there for a reason, and that MAX function is there to be used.  Don't be
afraid to.  If it doesn't get cold enough in there, get it recharged.  If
the engine is overheating from the A/C use, get ~that~ part corrected first
(Notice the extensive thread on that subject here recently... :)  If you're
using too much gas, well that's too bad!  :)  Actually, it's been rumored
that the A/C's draw on the engine uses less fuel than rolling the windows
down, because of wind drag, etc.  Never seen ~actual~ evidence to back that
up, I've just moved the lever to max and ran with it!

Good Luck, let us know if there's any more problems with it!


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:50:16 -0300
Subject: Re: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint

At 02:21 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>A couple questions:
>
>1)  I am about to paint the 4bbl Air cleaner on my Cutlass, and I have had
>little luck finding a close match to the shade of red that is on it.  It (as
>most of you know) is kind of an orangish-red and I have looked all over, and
>haven't found anything too close.  The closest I have found so far is Krylon
>"Banner Red," but it still doesn't have quite enough of the orangish tint to
>it.  Anyone know where to find something closer without having it custom
>mixed?

   You might want to check out Duplicolor which is found in most parts
stores.  I used their Ford Engine Red part ªDE 1605 on my air cleaner and am
pleased with it.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:57:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 442

At 09:13 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Looking for the shell of a 1977 442, if you can help let me know.
>
>Thanks a million, my son will be in heaven if mom can help him get his
>back on the road.
>

Really funny you should mention that.  An old friend of mine had a '77 442
project car that he really liked (the Rockit's first new engine had been in
that car, too)  It was a mess to start with.  He was killed in a pickup
wreck a few years ago, and his little brother finished the car as a tribute
to him.  Pretty cool.  Car looked great for a while, but the kid really
thrashed on it :(  Sure like the car, though.  Good luck!


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:57:08 -0300
Subject: 61 Olds F/S in North Central Montana

     I've heard of a guy in Chinook MT (20 miles from me) who has a '61 Olds
for sale.  Rebuilt 394, rebuilt tranny.  Maroon, really nice shape.  Don't
know ~what~ it is, or even how many doors it has, but it's supposed to be
really decent.  He'd bought the car for the engine and tranny, and
discoverred they wouldn't work on his convert, I guess.  Don't know much
about that.  I guess he wants $900 OBO, though.  For a 61 in good shape, it
might be a good deal...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:53:02 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

Okay, here's a list of what I've done to my beloved 425, oh and by
the way, I meant to say stock forged steel crank earlier ;( .  Okay,
I bored the '66 425 block 0.030" over, and managed to find the only
set of 425 0.030" pistons in Canada!  I was lucky, to these I added a
set of Sealed Power Moly rings and had new cam bearings installed
also.  K, next I ordered and Edelbrock Performer 455 manifold and
also went with the Edelbrock Cam which has lift @ valve .472 .496,
288/298 duration at .006" lift.  It sounds just right and Idles
great!  Next I went with the edelbrock performer 750 cfm Carb with
Electric choke.  It also works great, and I am right now seeing if
the stock jets in the carb are enough for my application.  If I
change them from stock, I'll be sure to give out the jet number for
reference.  The heads are "A" castings and are great!  They feature
stock screw in studs, rocker braces, and ports that work great
untouched.  I have yet to modify the heads on the car, but am
thinking of going with Harland Sharp Roller rockers, offered at a
list price of $295.00 American.  You can find all sorts of
performance parts in the Street and Strip parts catalogue available
at any good corner store! :) Heck, I even found gear drives!
Okay, back to the tech, I looked around for headers and found that
Dynomax, Hooker, and Flowtech makes 'em.  Others probably do too, and
I'd be interested on knowing which headers fit best because the
Dynomax ones I put on fit like crap.  The headers are 1 3/4"
primaries, and I hear that hooker is making    1 7/8" soon.  The
compression is 10.5:1 and I don't notice any knock or ping on 94
octane gas.  To ignite the "Thunder Down Under" I decided to go with
a GM HEI ignition with an accel Supercoil and accel 300+ race wires.
I also put in a roller timing chain set.  The engine only cost a
little over $2400 with all the work done by myself and my buddy.  I'm
talkin' stump pulling torque!  I furnished the interior with a few
Autometer guages and found that the Chrome Autometer Autogauge Tach
fits right into the Electric clock hole on the instrument panel of my
'70 cutlass.  I assume this would be the same for all '70 to '72, but
don't take my word for anything other than that.  I'm thinking of
going with the Mondello recommended MSD-6AL ignition, any suggestions
from past experiences?  I also plan to bolt on a set of Lakewood No-
Hop bars and am contemplating Hoosier DOT legal tires.  I blow the
exhaust through a set of regular "super snoozer" mufflers from the
resident Midas Mufflers.  All in all this thing is a real M*stang,
Ch*velle, and Fire*ird killer!
I can safely say that my 425 really shows what engines are the most
powerful pound for pound, Oldsmobile Small and Big Blocks!

Mat Nadrofsky
 P.S  I have a 1966 Oldsmobile Chassis Service manual that lists the
specs of everything for '66 Olds cars!  If anyone out there has any
questions about their '66, give me a ring! :)

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:04:26 -0300
Subject: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???

>The only difference between the 425 and the 455 is the crank.  So puting
>a 425 crank in a 455 would make it a 425.

Don't forget that at the shorter stroke, the rods are also a different
length...



>I'm helping a friend plan his 455 for his 68 442, check out the roller
>cams that were in the mid to late 80's 307's ....one of these in a 455
>did wonders on the dyno.  stock C heads with 10.5 comp
>529 hp at 5500         558 tq at 4000

VERY interesting!  I've never even considerred that.  I am not very familiar
with those 307's.  What all was involved in switching to the rollers???
Which 307's had 'em?  (I'll check the FAQ in a minute, here, but...)  I
~really~ like the idea, though...  Those specs are amazing!  Was that a
stock 455, with ~just~ the stock 80's roller cam and lifters???  What other
goodies helped attain those ~big~ numbers?  Do tell!!!    :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:02:39 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

I recently did my 425 and its running 10.5:1 comp. and not knocking a
bit on 94 octane, it has all kinds of goodies that I have mentioned
in previous posts.

Mat Nadrofsky

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Jay Britt <jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:12:20 -0300
Subject: A sticky problem

Has anyone out there ever had to remove that cheap, glass tinting film
adhesive from your glass? I've tried every type of adhesive remover I
can find, but no luck. Today I tried 3M Adhesive Remover from a local
paint supply house. This is used for removing weatherstripping and
probably vinyl tops, but it won't touch this glue on the windows.
I would appreciate any advise.

Thanks,
Jay Britt

'67 Cutlass Supreme


- --
__________________________________________________________
Jay Britt                        3600 Communications
Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services
(757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
(757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
mailto:jay.britt@360.com
__________________________________________________________
This message was sent from a wireless data device using
3600 Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:21:56 -0300
Subject: Unbounce: Cam Walking

Another h*lp message... please do not use the "H*LP" word in your subject
line, folks, majordomo thinks you're trying to get to me...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date:Mon, 19 May 1997 09:38:01 -0300

       H*lp anybody,I pulled the timing chain cover & seen where
the cam bolt had been walking into the cover, so i proceed  to pull cam
&also noticed that the rear part of the cam had walked backwards .  Is
there soposed to be  some kind of cam bushing behind the cam gear?  Iknow
Mondello  sells a cam button for the bolt.  Oh     &  where can i  get a
new bolt?  You know it is kind-of  wore down.  Thanks a lot for the help.
Luke

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:39:43 -0300
Subject: Apology (was Re: 71' 442)

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:23:15 -0300
From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
To: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 71' 442

I apologize greatly to everyone out there. I must have missed that
part.I would never have sent the pictures if I had any idea it would
ruin anything. I am VERY SORRY and hope I can continue getting info from
everyone out there.
    Robert 71' 442   P.S. I really had no idea.

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:51:18 -0300
Subject: TH200 transmission

Hello all,

Against the advice I gave, my brother had his TH200 rebuilt.  Now that
it's back in his car, the guy who rebuilt it can't get it to shift into
drive.

He says there's a shift kit in the tranny that may be causing the
trouble.  We know the history of this drivetrain back to about 1990/91,
and never was a shift kit put in during this time.  This means that the
shift kit is at least 7 or 8 years old and never had an effect on the
the transmission going into drive that we knew of.  Is there any
possibility this older shift kit is giving problems?  Or is the tranny
guy trying to pass the buck?

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <RYANH@docker.com>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:46:53 -0300
Subject: SENDING PICTURES TO THE LIST

How many times do we have to go through this?

PLEASE do not send pictures of any format to the list.  I just sat
waiting and waiting for a 620K digest to download.  Of course, the
pictures embedded in the message were absolutely useless since they show
up as random characters, making the experience an even greater waste of
time.

If you have pictures that you wish to make available, put them on a web
page.

Thanks,

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:54:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Differential ID

>Hello all:
>I hope someone can help me.

Hope I'm not too late with help...

>The ID letters reading vertically."BD"
>
>I looked in the '69 chassis service manual and the letters "BD",
>are not listed.

I checked my info and found no BD listed, but there is an RD.  Are you
sure you read the code correctly?  An RD rear would be a type C
differential (it's got C-clips holding the axles in), 3.08 posi.  There's
also an SD, which is the O type rear (no C-clips), 3.08 posi.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:54:27 -0300
Subject: '68 442, '70 convertible

Hey folks,

I saw today a '68 442 sitting in a parking lot in an industrial area of
town.  My buddy says it's been sitting there for a couple months.  From
the road, it looked like it had a good bit of cancer, and it had no
bumpers.  The paint looked like it was the original green color, and
since it was so oxidized and faded, I'm thinking it was the original
paint.  Is this car worth pursuing?  There's no for sale sign in/on it,
but if it's a rare car (read: if the quantity built was low), I may
consider trying to purchase it.  How many '68 442's were made?

There's a fellow in town who was a '70 Cutlass convertible for sale.
Looks like it's got the original 350/350 in it.  Front disc brakes, front
bucket seats, floor shifter (not original; a poor replacement job with an
aftermarket Hurst shifter).  The body looks to be in excellent shape; the
paint is fairly fresh, and he claims it "doesn't have any Bondo!".
Right...  Anyway, I didn't check that part out.  It's a candy apple red
with a black top, and a custom black/grey interior with red accents that
looks like it could use some refreshing.  He wants $11,500 for it, which
I think is probably more than twice what he'll actually get for it.  If
anybody is interested, let me know!


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:54:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

>I have looked for the two letter ID that is supposed to be on the
>passenger
>side of the axle?  Could anyone provide a more detailed description of
>the
>location of this marking.
>Is this stamped in the axle or a Raised casting?

It ~should~ be on the rear of the passenger side axle tube (it's not on
the center housing).  Check about two or three inches out from the center
housing on the backside of the tube.  It's a stamping, two characters,
about 1/4" or 3/8" high.  If it's not there, check all around both axle
tubes.  You may have to scrape off whatever accumulated road gunk has
collected on the tubes!

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 22:54:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Exhaust Hanger Material

>Who makes 'em, and where can I find, the corded rubber material for
>the
>exhaust hangers.
>Anyone know of where I can get some of this hanger material?  Or will
>I
>just have to buy  a close-match hanger and steal the rubber out of it?

AFAIK, those generic replacement hangers you can buy in the auto parts
stores use punched out pieces of old worn out tires for the hanger
material.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:57:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

Jason Adcock wrote:

> Also, what is the difference between "MAX" and "NORM" on the air
> comditioner?  I know that on NORM, the compressor cycles on and off...I
> can't tell if it cycles on and off on the MAX setting.  Will this cause
> premature compressor failure if I drive to work (~14 miles) with the
> compressor on MAX?

The MAX setting on your A/C means that the system is recycling cooled
inside air through the evaporator core instead of hot outside air.  Max
is used mainly for quickly cooling down the interior.  In NORM the air
door switches over to outside air through the evaporator core.  You can
switch to NORM once you have cooled the interior down.  The compressor
should cycle on both settings.  But even if it doesn't, that shouldn't
hurt anything.  The compressor on my '67 runs constantly unless the
system is turned off.  It's a Comfortron system and the compressor even
runs when the heater is on.  Been running for 97000 miles with no
problems... yet.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:38:20 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> 988 trim = yellow cloth and vinyl buckets (these must be *very* rare!)

Sorry Greg,

Don't want to publicly humiliate you, but these seats were 100% vinyl.
No cloth was available in yellow.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:33:20 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

Mike Turley wrote:

> Car was black, black, black and _very_ nice.
>
> It had Y-2 paint code and 988-B trim code, aren't these the codes for
> yellow ext., yellow int., and a black top??
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Turley      '66 442

Yes, they are, but late in the model run they ran out of yellow paint
and yellow vinyl, so the factory substituted black in it's place...

Do you really think it's even a 442?  or just a Supreme in disguise?

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Dave Bird" <gannet@cftnet.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:02:13 -0300
Subject: WTB: pre-74 98 Florida

Wanted: pre-74 98 in Florida for a good home.  Must be loaded,
clean, complete, driving, and reasonably priced.  Consider similar
cars of other GM or Mopar makes.  Please reply via email so as not
to clutter the list.

Dave Bird
gannet@cftnet.com
St. Petersburg, FL

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:05:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Apology (was Re: 71' 442)

Subject: Re: 71' 442
>
> I apologize greatly to everyone out there. I must have missed that
> part.I would never have sent the pictures if I had any idea it would
> ruin anything. I am VERY SORRY and hope I can continue getting info from
> everyone out there.
>     Robert 71' 442   P.S. I really had no idea.

Robert,

Forget about it.  EVERYONE makes mistakes, and you can continue to get
information from here.  Unless of course, it's for a Ch... or Fo.., I
can't say those words, for if I did, others would kill me, but you get
the idea.  If it's Olds related, you are in the right spot.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:26:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters

> Now for the 68's; 442 and Cutlass had a lens with a SINGLE chrome
> molding around them and ALL others had a dual chrome molding( one on each
> side of the lens.

You have that backwards:  442 and S had the dual chrome moldings, the
supremes had the single. I believe the f-85 had the single also.

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: Clark Rempel <amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 01:02:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
>
> The only '77 H/O prototype was for sale a couple months back in
> Hemmings....I believe the owner wanted about $15,000 for it.  Black w/gold,
> 403, Hurst hatches, rear quarter windows filled......sorry, no blue ones!
>
> >1 proto type Hurst/Olds made which may still be in existance from sktchy
> >info I,ve seen on net. Supposed to be on US east coast.
> >It was black with gold accents.
> >
> >The one your looking must be a fake. The prototype had rear quarter windows
> >filled. It was based on Cutlass S model like all 73-75. Very little known
> >about the proto type.
> >
> >I take it you are in Manitoba.

I didn't realize '77 Hursts were so scarce (only 1 built!!!)  Here are
the first few digits of the cars serial number 3G3787M...... (hopefully
someone can tell me exactly what this car is, if not a Hurst).
As an aside: has anyone seen pictures of the stripes on the black
prototype?  The stripes on this car are quite detailed (especially the
Hurst/Olds insignia) and look unlike any Hurst/Olds stripes I've seen
(although I must admit I am no Oldsmobile expert).  I can't imagine any
company is making re-pro stencil kits for a 'one-off' prototype!

Clark Rempel (In Jetless Winnipeg)   (amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca)

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:47:28 -0300
Subject: any 70's out there

    I am very interested in purchasing a 1970 442 or S  I sold my project a
few years ago and miss it greatly.  I would like a car that I could drive, and
looks good.  doesn't have to be perfect.  I would like to purchase it in the
next month or so.  Want to drive a 70 here in olds country this summer.

ANY LEADS??????

Thanks
Doug

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:51:40 -0300
Subject: Re: TH200 transmission

At 09:51 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Against the advice I gave, my brother had his TH200 rebuilt.  Now that
>it's back in his car, the guy who rebuilt it can't get it to shift into
>drive.
[snip of tranny guy's lame explanations...]
>possibility this older shift kit is giving problems?  Or is the tranny
>guy trying to pass the buck?

He's trying to weasel out of fixing his mistake. You're right; if it shifted
into drive before the rebuild with a shift-kit, then it certainly should
shift into drive after the rebuild with the same shift kit. If the tranny
guy can't figure out the logic behind that, then maybe you don't want him
trying to figure out what he did wrong the first time.

Tell him you'll be back in two days when he gets the transmission working
*right*, and if it's not right by then, you'll charge *him* to have it towed
to another shop and repaired correctly.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:58:36 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

At 02:36 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 425 in my '70 cutlass.  It came from a '66 Delta 88, would
>this engine be a rare find?

Only as rare as '66 Deltas and 98's (they all came with the 425). You don't
trip over them in every junkyard, but they're still out there.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:58:39 -0300
Subject: Re: '77 442 parts

At 10:50 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Let me try again.  Iam interested in any thing for a '77 442.

"Anything"? Engine parts? Body Parts? Chrome trim? Decals? Interior parts?
Suspension parts?

The parts are out there, and can be either very common or very rare,
depending on what you're looking for.

I mean, I've got a water pump and intake manifold that would work, but does
he need them? If you can find out what he needs, specifically, post that
information.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 13:58:26 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

- ----------
> Has anyone out there ever had to remove that cheap, glass tinting film
> adhesive from your glass? I've tried every type of adhesive remover I
> can find, but no luck. Today I tried 3M Adhesive Remover from a local
> paint supply house. This is used for removing weatherstripping and
> probably vinyl tops, but it won't touch this glue on the windows.
> I would appreciate any advise.
>=20
> Thanks,
> Jay Britt
>=20
> '67 Cutlass Supreme
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> __________________________________________________________
> Jay Britt                        360=B0 Communications =20
> Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services  =20
> (757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
> (757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
> mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
> mailto:jay.britt@360.com
> __________________________________________________________
> This message was sent from a wireless data device using
> 360=B0 Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

    Jay   spray warm water w/ dish washing liquid on it , then scrape the
window the a razor blade.  It takes time& blades but it works.    =20

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:09:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???

At 09:04 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>I'm helping a friend plan his 455 for his 68 442, check out the roller
>>cams that were in the mid to late 80's 307's ....one of these in a 455
>>did wonders on the dyno.  stock C heads with 10.5 comp
>>529 hp at 5500         558 tq at 4000
>
>VERY interesting!  I've never even considerred that.  I am not very familiar
>with those 307's.  What all was involved in switching to the rollers???
>Which 307's had 'em?  (I'll check the FAQ in a minute, here, but...)  I
>~really~ like the idea, though...  Those specs are amazing!  Was that a
>stock 455, with ~just~ the stock 80's roller cam and lifters???  What other
>goodies helped attain those ~big~ numbers?  Do tell!!!    :)

The hydraulic roller-lifters used stock on the mid-'80's 307's were larger
in diameter than the standard Olds lifter, though they shared the same
lifter diameter as the early Toro 425's (.921"), so maybe they could be used
in the Toro-block 425's? The factory 307 roller-cam specs were very mild,
though Mondello offers "healthier" grinds for the hydraulic-lifter engines.

There are aftermarket roller cams, completely different from the factory
setup, that would give you numbers in the 500+hp range.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:09:03 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

At 06:44 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Did anyone see the article about the 400+ hp 350 ch*vy in the June 97 HOT
[snip]
>The main development theories behind this monster was to get excellent
>power with poor grade fuel.  Here's how:  They used the 6.209in Ford rod
>with a short stroke crank combined with a large bore for a few reasons.
>One was that the large bore is supposed to provide for better airflow into
>the CC than a similar small bore engine.  Second is that the long rod
>changes the geometry of the assembly, and is supposed to allow higher
>compression ratios.  Clearly with 11:1, this holds true.

So basically, they went in the direction of the engineering of stock Olds
engines, which used a relatively long rod (6" in small-blocks, 7" in
big-blocks) with a shorter stroke (3.39", vs. the "other" small-block's
3.48"), and a relatively large bore (4.057" on the 350, 4.351" on the 403)

>The most important thing is that this engine only cost $2959, with hardly
>any exotic parts at all.

More than my 403, and I really splurged.

>engine, then one could make a stump pulling behemoth that would run on
>today's poor gasoline.

Hey! That's what I thought all us Olds-folks had been doing all along! (just
don't tell the Ch*vy folks; then all our good parts that they think are junk
will become simply unaffordable)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:11:43 -0300
Subject: Re: TH200 transmission

At 10:51 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>Against the advice I gave, my brother had his TH200 rebuilt.  Now that
>it's back in his car, the guy who rebuilt it can't get it to shift into
>drive.
>
>He says there's a shift kit in the tranny that may be causing the
>trouble.  We know the history of this drivetrain back to about 1990/91,
>and never was a shift kit put in during this time.  This means that the
>shift kit is at least 7 or 8 years old and never had an effect on the
>the transmission going into drive that we knew of.  Is there any
>possibility this older shift kit is giving problems?  Or is the tranny
>guy trying to pass the buck?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Ryan Hehn
>ryanh@docker.com
>
>
Ryan

        He's trying to pass the buck. Sounds like he's got a air leak
between the valve body or put part of the tranny together wrong. A old shift
kit WILL NOT cause it not to shift into drive. That's a bunch of B.S.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:16:01 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-4-2 taillights, OAI canisters

At 11:26 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>> Now for the 68's; 442 and Cutlass had a lens with a SINGLE chrome
>> molding around them and ALL others had a dual chrome molding( one on each
>> side of the lens.
>
>You have that backwards:  442 and S had the dual chrome moldings, the
>supremes had the single. I believe the f-85 had the single also.
>
>-Dan
>
Dan

        Thanks for catching that. I brought some up to Greg and I couldn't
remember which was which, but I knew they were different.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 21:53:52 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

Mike Turley wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I went to look at a '67 442 conv. last Friday.  It had a D casting
> 425 in it.  As I was calling the man's bluff; he told me that a very small
> number of late '67s had 425s as there were no more E casting 400s.
>

A long time ago I learned never to never dealing with the car hobby.
This is one of those cases. On one hand I could say that since GM had a
BAN on any engine OVER 400 cubic inches that the engine is not correct.
In 1968 the H/O was the first intermediate car to have an engine that
broke the BAN. Though who is to say what they did. The car makers were
not above putting bigger engines in cars that went to the car mags.(case
in point the 421 p*ntiac g*o) If I had to bet I would say that the
engine is not original. But if the serial numbers match and you can get
confirmation on it's veracity go for it.

Danny

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:26:56 -0300
Subject: Re: TH200 transmission

>Hello all,
>
>Against the advice I gave, my brother had his TH200 rebuilt.  Now that
>it's back in his car, the guy who rebuilt it can't get it to shift into
>drive.
I'm not sure what exactly you mean by not shifting into drive.  Won't move
at all in the forward ranges?  Will engage in L but not D?  Will shift
though first and second but won't shift into third?

FWIW, Just a quick rundown of what my chilton manual sez.

No drive in drive range:
A. low oil level
B. manual linkage
C. Low oil pressure
D. Valve body Assy (the manual valve that's connected to the shifter is
missing the pin so it doesn't move    when you change gears)
E. Forward Clutch
F. Roller clutch assembly

First speed only, no 1-2 shift.
A. Governor and governor feed passages
B. Control valve assembly
C. Case problems  (porisity in case channels or undrilled 2nd speed feed
holes, Exessive leakage between     case bore and intermediate band apply
ring, or broken or missing band.
D intermediate servo assy

>He says there's a shift kit in the tranny that may be causing the
>trouble.
Reeeally, really doubt it.  I've never read or heard of it happening, and I
can't think of how it could happen.  Most shift kits are just a few springs
and a new valvebody plate.  There's really nothing that can go bad with one
if it was originally installed properly.  Which it was evidently, since it
ran at least 7 years with it.  They basically tweak the valvebody so that it
will provide better pressure to the servos, that's it.  A shift kit might
accelerate wear on the components,  but then many people say that they
decrease wear because they allow less slippage.  It probably depends on how
the car is driven.  At any rate, if the tranny isn't engaging because of a
shift kit, your mechanic didn't put it back in right.

Is he using this as a reason to charge you more to fix it?  I mean honestly,
you paid him to *rebuild* the transmission, that's what he should have done.
He should make sure each component is in spec and replace it if it isn't.
If the shift kit was bad he should have replaced it during the rebuild.
It's no excuse for a botched job.  He shouldn't be charging you extra labor
to remove the transmission again and fix it correctly.  Personally, I
wouldn't pay him extra to do that regardless of whether the shift kit was at
fault.  It's his mistake that he put the tranny back before he made sure he
had everything right.

In short, it's not bloody likely that a bad shift kit would cause a tranny
to be unable to shift into gear.  The mechanic either doesn't want to eat
the cost of fixing it or he doesn't really know why it's still not working.
.....He's trying to pass the buck.

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:22:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Need clutch fan test

At 06:54 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>.
>     My 350 which has run forever, all day and all night at 205'F, changed
>today. On the highway the car was running 210'F and on the local roads with
>lights it jumped to 220'F. This does not seem extreme but I want to check
>it all out before my engine does a Three Mile Island. Is there a simply
>test to see if the fan is working properly? It has 150,000 miles on it. One
>year on a new radiator. This change happen so quick I think something
>broke. Coolant level is good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

What year 350? 205' sounds kind of high for normal driving, and 220' is too
high. I'd suspect the fan clutch, since it goes up in town, but that should
have nothing to do with the temp going up on the highway. Check that the
thermostat is not sticking closed or failing to open completely, or that a
hose is not collapsing on you. It's cheap enough to replace the thermostat
and see if that is the cause.

My 403 had been creeping up to 200' around town, but on the highway would
stick right at the thermostat's opening point, 180'. Since it was a
thermostatic clutch fan, I couldn't test the clutch by simply spinning it
when cold (it isn't designed to engage fully at low temps, so it seems to
freewheel). You can test it, however, by comparing how long the fan turns
when the engine is shut off. When cold, it should continue to spin for a few
seconds; when hot, the clutch should be engaged, so it should turn only a
few times. If the fan spins the same amount both cold and hot, the
thermostatic engagement might be shot. Of course, you should visually
inspect it for leaks and such.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:24:31 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

At 08:18 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello, my name is Clark, and I am new to the list.  I'm currently
>considering the purchase of, what I am told, is a '77 Hurst/Olds.  The
>current owner (the second) seems to know very little about the car: a
>medium blue Cutlass with light blue body length "Hurst/Olds - W30"
>stripes.  According to the current owner the car was repainted several
>years ago and the stripes re-applied with an aftermarket stencil kit.  I
>have looked the car over thoroughly (it's in beautiful shape) and the
>stripes appear to be its only distinguishing feature.  Is there any sure
>fire method of authenticating the car as a genuine Hurst?  Serial number?
> Any special parts to look for?
>Thanks in advance - Clark Rempel   (amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca)
>
>
Clark

        Yes there was ONE 1977 Hurst/Olds. Last I remember seeing this car
it was registered to the owner of Mr. Gasket performace company. The car has
been for sale a couple of times in Hemmings Auto New, but I don't think it
sold. The car is Black with Gold Hurst stripes. There were no others. It was
a prototype that never got approved. It's got a 403 cu in that has been
modified with a marine cam and some other tricks. The car still had it's
original paint last I knew and was showing very low mileage. Price was I
believe somewhere around $13,000-$15,000 for it.

Hope this helps,
Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:22:38 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

At 09:53 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Okay, here's a list of what I've done to my beloved 425, oh and by
[snip]
>also went with the Edelbrock Cam which has lift @ valve .472 .496,
>288/298 duration at .006" lift.  It sounds just right and Idles
[snip]

Hmmm, is that a Toro 425 you've got there? That would have the
later-standard 39' angle lifter-banks, in which the Edelbrock cam would work
fine; most 425's came with the 45' lifter-banks, and required special-ground
camshafts.

Car sounds like a real sleeper; scan in some pictures when you're done (but
DON'T POST THEM TO THE LIST!!!)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: SPotter596@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:26:52 -0300
Subject: 65 CUTLASS/ F-85

i AM RESTORING A 65 F-85 DELUXE REPLACING 225V6 WITH A 67 CUTLASS 400. I HAVE
65 CUTLASS THAT HAD 330 AS PARTS CAR.IS THERE ANYTHING AS FAR AS PROBLEMS
ANYONE CAN SEE ARISING FROM THE SWAP AND  WILL I BE ABLE TO USE THE SWAY BARS
AND SUSPENSION TO HANDLE THE EXTRA POWER? DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THE REARENDS
ARE THE SAME BETWEEN THE TWO MODELS?ANY OTHER ADVISE APPRECIATED.

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:32:13 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

At 01:02 AM 5/20/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I didn't realize '77 Hursts were so scarce (only 1 built!!!)  Here are
>the first few digits of the cars serial number 3G3787M...... (hopefully
>someone can tell me exactly what this car is, if not a Hurst).
>As an aside: has anyone seen pictures of the stripes on the black
>prototype?  The stripes on this car are quite detailed (especially the
>Hurst/Olds insignia) and look unlike any Hurst/Olds stripes I've seen
>(although I must admit I am no Oldsmobile expert).  I can't imagine any
>company is making re-pro stencil kits for a 'one-off' prototype!
>
>Clark Rempel (In Jetless Winnipeg)   (amxclark@mb.sympatico.ca)
>
>
Clark

        I have a photo of the 77 prototype. The stripes look to be a couple
inches wide with a 1/4 inch stripe around it all the way down the side of
the car in the middle of the body. The Hurst/Olds is in the rear quarter
panels near the trunk.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:40:38 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

In a message dated 97-05-19 22:59:20 EDT, you write:

<< I recently spruced up my Olds 425.  I will check out the rod length,
 and I know that my engine came with a stock steel crank, which I can
 give you some info about when I find the paper I stashed away! :)
 Anyways, with the stuff I've done to my 425, I founf that I was
 making close to 450 bhp @ 4500 and 525 lb. ft. @3500.  These are
 estimates from the class A mechanic that built the motor and helped
 me get a good deal on Perf. parts.  I'll be sure to tell the Dyno
 results and 1/4 Mile E.T once I get the time to run the car! :)  Let
 me know if there is anything I can do to help.
  >>
 I actually dynoed my 455 OLds engine and it dynoed at 468 HP with 520 torque
at 3500RPM and my quickest e.t thus far is a 12.47@ 108.23mph in the 1/4th
mile
at Norwalk Raceway in Norwalk Ohio.  I am going to the track tomorrow and i
will let you guys know the results later.

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30 at 3700lbs

------------------------------

From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:40:34 -0300
Subject: Olds at Hot Rod Power Tour...

The Hot Rod Power Tour finished up Sunday in Mt.Clemens, Mi with the local
paper saying that an estimated 2,000 "Hot Rods" came to town for the two
day event. The highlight of the event (at least for me) were all the great
looking Oldsmobiles! Mark Prince (W Machines) and Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)
showed up with their beautiful W-30's, along with several of their friends
4-4-2's and Cutlass'. There were many Oldsmobiles that showed up ranging
from 4-4-2's, Cutlass, H/O's, Vista Cruiser's and custom Oldsmobiles from
the 50's and 40's. Our numbers may have been smaller compared to the oodles
of Chevelles, Mustangs and Mopars... But i'd rather have quality than
quantity anyday!

Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
OCA ª 028157

------------------------------

From: SLSupreme@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:50:53 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

Forwarded Message:
Subj:Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Date:97-05-19 22:34:23 EDT
From:gowest@direct.ca (Marvin Friesen)
Sender:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Reply-to:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

>The only '77 H/O prototype was for sale a couple months back in
>Hemmings....I believe the owner wanted about $15,000 for it.  Black w/gold,
>403, Hurst hatches, rear quarter windows filled......sorry, no blue ones!

>1 proto type Hurst/Olds made which may still be in existance from sktchy
>info I,ve seen on net. Supposed to be on US east coast.
>It was black with gold accents.

>The one your looking must be a fake. The prototype had rear quarter >windows
>filled. It was based on Cutlass S model like all 73-75. Very little known
about the proto type.

I've seen this car at a place called Golden Classics at 1165 Route 88 in
Lakewood, NJ...I believe the owner has it for sale on consignment
there...Don't know too much about the car since I did not know a '77 Hurst
even existed...

I drove by on a Sunday and the place was closed but the car was sitting
outside so I stopped to look at it...The car appeared to be in original
condition and even had a "Hurst" tach built into the dash...There was also a
binder on the passenger seat labelled "documents" so I guess this car may be
legit...

Anyway, if anyone is interested, their number is (908) 370-2323...

KG Ohsaka
Parsippany,NJ
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
1995 Cutlass Supreme Convertible





- ----------------------- Headers --------------------------------
>From oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca  Mon May 19 19:36:10 1997
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From: "Marvin Friesen" <gowest@direct.ca>
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Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 20:17:15 -0300
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------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:05:05 -0300
Subject: Re: welder question (Whoa! There it is! :)

 >I have a question about a type of welding kit I spotted in Lowes the other
>day.  I know this topic was discussed earlier but I'm afraid I didn't take
>good enough notes.  (I accidentally trashed the messages)

BLAH BLAH BLAH (snip!)

I sent that message six days ago!  I guess it finally got unstuck. :)  I
reposted it later that evening and got plenty of help.  Thanks for the input
everyone.  I belive I'll just save up my pennies for a mig welder.  I had my
doubts about how well the little contraption would work.  Someone said it
would go though a lot of oxygen, that's what I was afraid of.  I could
imagine it'd get expensive pretty fast, especially since the oxygen was $7 a
pop and the cannisters were smaller than most fire extinguishers.  Then
there's the braizing rods, which I'd need a few of since I'd have to
practice some.  (I've got an ugly `77 ch*velle I'll probably practice mig
welding on, since it's not much good for anything else.)  And tools are
generally not a good thing to go cheap on, I sorta figured a welder was no
exeption.  But I had to ask. :)

I guess my original message got stuck in a message tube on the mail server
somewhere. :)

And thanks again.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 01:00:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Axle Bearing Failure

Kevin O'Brien wrote:

> Next: Figured I should do the driver side. So, back to the bible"....To
>  remove the bearing retainer, take a cold chisel and strike the retainer
>  in several places..this will expand the retainer and make its removal
>  easy..."
>
et alii..

The moral of this story? Get the correct service manual and use it! (Keeping
it in the car is not a bad idea!) It can ultimately be worth more than 10
experienced mechanics. On the other hand if it were worth it's weight in gold
I could have made an offer to the couple with the white 1962 Dynamic 88 at
the IVOC antique show.....

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago IL

Enlightenment? Go Read  (the manual)!

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:59:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> Hey all...yep, I've got some more questions  ;-)
>
> First, about Motor Oil.  The Owner's Guide says to use a certain API
> grade: SJ or CJ (I forgot exactly).  Do different grades of motor oil
> differ that much?  Will the engine be damaged if a different grade than
> is recommended is put in...not...that...I...would do anything like that
> 8P

The API grade is a way of rating the quality of oils.  They start at SA
and I think they're up to something like SH now.  You can always use a
better grade of oil with no harm, but you shouldn't "go down".  For
example you can use an SG or SH oil if your car says to use SE engine
oil.  First of all, you have to look long and hard to find any oil with
a rating of SD or lower anymore, even most of the no-name generic oils
you find at the local quickie-mart are SE.  To make things even more
complicated, I think the API restructured their classification system a
few years ago, so the SE standard your car calls for isn't equateable to
a current SE oil.

Personally, I'd just stick with SG or SH oils and you'll never have to
worry about it.  Most good brand names (Pennsoil, Quaker State, Castrol,
Valvoline, etc) are SG rated.  Most synthetic oils are SH rated.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@teknon.com

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 01:07:21 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

At 12:40 AM 5/20/97 -0300, WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:

> I actually dynoed my 455 OLds engine and it dynoed at 468 HP with 520 torque
>at 3500RPM and my quickest e.t thus far is a 12.47@ 108.23mph in the 1/4th
>mile
>at Norwalk Raceway in Norwalk Ohio.  I am going to the track tomorrow and i
>will let you guys know the results later.

Mark, are you going to Norwalk again anytime soon? If so I will go out there
and race instead of locally here. I would like to see this engine! Awesome
numbers.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH
93 Camaro Z/28......13.402 @ 102.31
76 Chevelle Malibu...new project street/strip car
80 Olds 442 W-30....times coming this Friday ;-)
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.will not see the track any time soon

------------------------------

From: "Bryce Osborne" <LAVAROOM@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 01:19:28 -0300
Subject: Brake Info

I have a 1969 Delta 88 w/455 and have been unable to find front brake
rotors & rear drums any info would be greatly appreciated.
Bryce

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 04:08:00 -0300
Subject: Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???

>>VERY interesting!  I've never even considerred that.  I am not very familiar
>>with those 307's.  What all was involved in switching to the rollers???
>>Which 307's had 'em?  (I'll check the FAQ in a minute, here, but...)  I
>>~really~ like the idea, though...

>The hydraulic roller-lifters used stock on the mid-'80's 307's were larger
>in diameter than the standard Olds lifter, though they shared the same
>lifter diameter as the early Toro 425's (.921"), so maybe they could be used
>in the Toro-block 425's? The factory 307 roller-cam specs were very mild,
>though Mondello offers "healthier" grinds for the hydraulic-lifter engines.
>

So ~theoretically~ speaking, I could take my '67 Toro's 425, and stick in
the mid 80's roller lifters, take an aftermarket stick with a fairly wild
grind, (maybe go with Comp Cams' or equivalent's roller rockers), and have a
highly efficient valvetrain?  AND, if I decide I want more cubes, I can take
the same block, and swap in the 455's crank, rods, and pistons, and have me
one big munster???  Sounds ~entirely~ too tempting!!!

Any possibility of the 80's roller lifter accepting the same lube channels
that they had in '67?

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 05:13:05 -0300
Subject: Olds Chat Link

     Hey all!  I stumbled across a server today, and as a result I now have
a chat room installed on my web page.  Of course, it's titled "Rocket Talk"
:)  Anyone wishing to do the "chat" thing is more than welcome and invited
(pronounced "beg":) to come check it out.  Of course, if only one person
checks it out at a time, it's gonna be ~really~ dull, but the site's there
and ready, so if anyone (or everyone) has any common times...  I have no
idea about system capacity on it, I don't think there really is a limit, so
check it out, anyway...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª683
********************************
