To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #626


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 22 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 626

RE: Mileage + Leaded gas question
Re: Leaded gas question
Re[2]: Winter...is...Over!!
back
Re: Car Show and Swap Meet this Weekend in SE Wisconsin
Re: A few questions
Re: Winter...is...Over!!
Re: NE Olds events (was Re: Berejik meeting)
Re: "Bridge Gauge"
Re: Re[2]: Winter...is...Over!!
'86 307 "Hencho en Mexico"  Bueno o mal?
Re: 67 Toro Questions
Re: Mystery manifold
Re: Leaded gas question
Re: Take a minute to pass this on...
Re: Mystery manifold
Re: Bridge Gauge
Re: 67 Toro Questions
Re: "NE Olds events" and "Winter...is...Over!!"
Re: Leaded gas question
Re: Toropony?
Re: 67 Toro Questions
Prepare to be amazed! (was: 81 cutlass & katana name/rambling)
Re: Jim..thinking outloud
Subject: Re: Clock...
Re: 7040250 Carb
'87 Salon Options
Re: 56 Olds
Re: The Carburetor Shop Address
Re: 81 cutlass & katana name/rambling
Re: "Bridge Gauge"
Re: Fwd: Take a minute to pass this on... (fwd) -Forwarded
Factory HP ratings (was: Toropony?)
Re: Points to HEI
Lead on 15X7 Wheels...
Warranty question
Re: Pony cars (WAS Re: "Real" Musclecars)
Re: Olds in McDonald's Ad
want '65 info
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: My Olds Weekend
test, erase
Re: My Olds Weekend
Wanted: 70 SX
Re: Posi rearend????
buick,olds pontiac magazine
Re: 67 Toro Questions
Re: Posi rearend????
Re: '87 Salon Options

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:06:14 -0300
Subject: RE: Mileage + Leaded gas question

> > One Imperial gallon = 4.545 Litres
>
> 4.546 Liters   (those Americans will never figure out the "re";
>                 remember that French is our secret weapon  <g>)

Aw, come now Kevin; we're not as dumb as we look on TV :)

And if French is your secret weapon, does that mean that
Jerry Lewis is our deterrent??


Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:15:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaded gas question

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> Both are $4.00/gallon. I think I'll go hang out there on a Sat. night and
> see who's buying that stuff...

I have a place close by my house that sells 100 octane unleaded gas for
$4.13/gallon.  I don't know of anyone who can afford that.  I know I
can't.  Now if they charged maybe 1.75/gallon, I would probably line up
for it.

Oh well..

Chris

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:17:37 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Winter...is...Over!!

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> Once again, folks like Dr. Bob in RI, Steve Bento on the North Shore,
> and other New Englanders (including Yours Truly) have survived another
> winter.

          Tim,

          I thought winter in New England wasn't officially over until
          May 10!  ;)

          (and for gratuitous Olds content, my first 68 442 was caught
          in the infamous May 9, 1977 snowstorm in Massachusetts after
          having pulled it out of winter storage - you may want to
          reconsider awakening Big Red)

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: MV <dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:08:49 -0300
Subject: back

hi guys,
i'm back to work after a month holidays, and of course i've some new
questions:

i plan to work on the suspension of my 73 delta 88 in 3 weeks when i go
back home. i'd like to rebuild bah front and rear, but i don't know if i
can do it myself. Do i need special tools to do this job? (i'm thinking
about tools to remove bushings)
will i have enough space to work if i put the car on stands?
where can i get some good suspension kits, coil springs and shock absorbers?

i also plan to change all the weatherstripping on the car. last month
somebody wrote something about Dan-Brothers Auto:
>Dan-Brothers Auto sells the top weatherstip kit for $189.00.  Made by Metro
>Moulded Rubber the package states they have a 15 year warranty but Brothers
>will stand behind them for life.
does anybody have their phone number?

while on vacation i worked on my car of course... i did a carburetor
overhaul, everything was all right to disassemble and reassemble, but i had
problems with  adjustments: many different special tools were needed to set
gaps and bend rods for example( the 1973 service manual describes "t-scale
and gauges set", etc)
here can i get these tools?

Changing the intake manifold gasket was fun too: instead of 4 hours it took
me 8 hours to complete the job. it's amazing how much s... you discover
when you open these 25 year old engines...

happy to be back, (not at work but on this list!) hope i get some help.

regards

a. lachatre (the french guy)

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:30:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Show and Swap Meet this Weekend in SE Wisconsin

From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>

>I just wanted to inform my fellow Midwesterners of a nice
>car show/swap meet/car corral up in Jefferson, WI on April 26-27.
>It is a pretty big event, with over 1000 cars in the show, 1400 cars
>for sale, and a huge swap meet area (over 3000 spaces).  It is about
>2 hrs Northwest of Chicago.
>        It is at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds.  I have attended it
>regularly (spring and fall) for a few years now and it is a great show,
>and is well run.  The swap meet and for-sale corral are on both days,
>and the show is only on Sunday.
>It is located near the intersection of Hwy 18 and 26 in Jefferson, WI.
>You can take I-94 and head South a few miles on Hwy 26, or take I-90 to
>Hwy 26
>North in Janesville for about 20 miles or so.

I have also gone to this show the last couple of years.  Just to be
different I usually take US Hwy 14, although last spring it was closed
for repairs part of the way.  Looks like I'll miss this spring's
show as I have other plans this weekend.  They hold the show
in both the spring and fall though.

The swap meet area is huge, and there is a few vendors selling
Olds stuff, which isnt bad for a non-Olds show.  Plan to spend a day
walking the swap area.  The show is billed as "little Carlilse" for
good reason.

And to tie in another thread, last year I saw 4-5 vendors selling
the quartz conversion clock setups.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:34:56 -0300
Subject: Re: A few questions

Hi all,

Well all this talk of spring and getting the cars out for a drive
brought a few questions to my mind.  Currently my car has been sitting
in my driveway since the week of March 5, 1997.  I have started it up
to make sure that it still runs.  How long should I let my car run
before I turn it off and how frequently should I start it?  I am not
driving the car until I get it repaired which is still up in the air.
Getting the work done on my own is quite costly.  $3,000 is a lot to
put out.

I am a little jealous since I am not driving my 442 at this time as
some on you on the list.  It is making me sad and depressed.  :-(

Later... I don't feel like typing anymore.

Chris Sparks
(68 442)

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:31:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Winter...is...Over!!

'Bama Bill magnaminously (and facetiously) sez:

> Tim,
>
> Welcome to spring.  "Better late than never", is definitely apropos
> here.  Do youi think that spring will last longer than this week?
>

Now Bill, I know you're just actin' all smug 'n' stuff 'cuz you're
pumped up about the 'Dukes of Hazzard' reunion show that's on later
this week...  :)

BTW, what *do* you use to clean up chaw juice from your car's upholstery?
I figure whatever you use would need to be strong enough for me to use
as an engine degreaser.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:34:16 -0300
Subject: Re: NE Olds events (was Re: Berejik meeting)

> > Maybe us NE Oldsmobilers could get together before then? How about it,
guys; > > have you dug your cars out of the snow yet? > > I'm all for this!!
So, when and where do we want to meet?? >

Well, probably the 'where' would still be Berejik's, no?  So now it's
just the 'when'...  I'm up fer it!



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:39:09 -0300
Subject: Re: "Bridge Gauge"

0At 12:53 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Has anyone ever used a bridge gauge when rebuilding an engine.
>>One mechanic says you can't rebuild an olds engine without one
>>and another mechanic never heard of it.

This is an item that Mondello will gladly sell to you. It looks like a
"U"-shaped piece of square steel, and from the middle another short piece of
steel descends. Here is a really rough ASCII approximation of it, that won't
appear right if you don't use a monospaced font:
  ___________________
 | ________  _______ |
 ||        ||       ||
 ||        ||       ||
 ||        ||       ||
 ||                 ||
 ||                 ||
                    ||

This is used to check the valvestem height after a valvejob is done. The
outer arms of the tool rest on the valve-cover surfaces, and the middle
finger of the tool is supposed to just contact the top of the valvestem. If
the valvestem is too long, you cut it down to fit; the valvestem would be
too long because a valvejob cuts down the valve seat, whihc puts the valve
higher in the head. This is to account for the non-adjustable rocker arms on
the Olds; if the valvestem is too high, then the pushrod will be placing too
much preload on the lifter.

On second thought, the arms of the tool might rest on the workbench that the
head would be resting on. That is where it should rest, anyway, because you
want to measure the position of the valvestem in relation to the cam, not
the valvecover rails (rocker-cover rails for the picky among you, and you
know who you are... ;). Doing a valvejob raises the valvestem in relation to
the entire head, but surfacing the heads will lower the entire head in
relation to the camshaft, so these two often even each other out.

On my engine, I just used a $10 pack of shims to get the proper preload for
each lifter; most I needed was .040" worth of shims, so everything was
pretty close.

As far as your mechanic's advice: The one who says you need it is going
strictly by the factory procedure. He should own this tool, or be able to
borrow it from someone; if you buy it, he should deduct from your bill what
it would cost to "rent" this tool from you. I believe Mondello wants about
$50 for this piece. Yes, he knows he has you by the rocker nuts. I can't
imagine what Snap-On or GM would want for the same piece.

The one who says you don't need it either doesn't know what you're talking
about, knows what you're talking about but has some alternative method for
establishing proper valvetrain geometry (i.e. shimming the rockers), or
knows what you're talking about but doesn't care enough to actually check
these measurements. You can always ask him how he establishes the proper
valvetrain geometry on an Olds engine; if he says "Huh?" or "Aw, ya don't
need to do that", then run, don't walk, from that man. If he has another
answer, listen carefully.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:42:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Winter...is...Over!!

> > Once again, folks like Dr. Bob in RI, Steve Bento on the North Shore,
> > and other New Englanders (including Yours Truly) have survived another
> > winter.
>
>           Tim,
>
>           I thought winter in New England wasn't officially over until
>           May 10!  ;)
>
>           (and for gratuitous Olds content, my first 68 442 was caught
>           in the infamous May 9, 1977 snowstorm in Massachusetts after
>           having pulled it out of winter storage - you may want to
>           reconsider awakening Big Red)

Oh yeah, I remember that storm... it was in the mid 70s the day before, too!
We lost power in Framingham for 3 days... I figured that the 30"(!!) we got
on April Fool's Day was the last hurrah.

Big Red is in the garage anyways, it'd just mean I'd actually have to brush
snow of the Caddy if we got a 3-sigma storm...

P.S. When I went for the drive yesterday, I saw that blue '67 ragtop I first
saw last fall; got a close look at it.  Very tired interior, bench seat,
high-quality K-Mart AudioVox radio (Only $19.95 This Week!)...

But hey, it's an Olds!


Tim (Tempting Fate) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Steven Larry Cannon <slcannon@uncc.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:47:06 -0300
Subject: '86 307 "Hencho en Mexico"  Bueno o mal?

Hey guys,

I haven't been on here for a couple of months now. I hate to just ask a
question and not be able to return the favor immediately, but I'm at school
and don't have the time or computer memory (projects eat it up) to stay on the
digest.

I had to have my timing chain replaced on my '86 442 at 65,000 miles.  The
chain wasn't too bad, but the aluminum gears were stripped.  I was at school
and it jumped timing so I had no choice but to have it towed.  Anyhow, while
it was in the shop the mechanic noticed that the block had "Hencho en Mexico"
on it.  I've heard that these blocks were weaker than regular 307's.  Is this
just a rumor or is it a fact?

Having the timing chain replaced made a world of difference in the car.  Some
of you may remember that I've had on going problems, supposedly with my
200-4R.  Well, apparently when the car was put into passing gear this thing
was slipping or something due to higher rpm's, but now it hits passing gear
everytime and at any speed.

Please email me personally since I'm not on the list.  Thank you for your
help.

Hope to be back on here next fall,

Steve Cannon
'86 442

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:36:25 -0300
Subject: Re: 67 Toro Questions

     Charlie B has "Couple points I've noticed and wonderred about..."

The Toros have the starter bolted to the transmission instead of the block.
Do these blocks still have the conventional mounting provisions on the other
side?

          Yes.  The tapped holes are present but unused.  (It was a
          Toro 455 shortblock - with conventional starter position -
          used in the original Hurst/Oldses)

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30





------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:02:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Mystery manifold

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>

>Let's see if anyone knows what this is.

>I ran across a factory four-barrel intake manifold for a big-inch olds,
>in my pile of parts. It has a port for the 90 degree pcv elbow (a la 70
>W-30) but it is a cast iron manifold, and has the firing order in front
>of the carb mount. It has the choke tubes on it, with the 404521 on the
>back near the distributor.  Below the number it looks like a O1  V
>?????  Any clue on what this intake is for???  I can't find anything
>written about this manifold.

Sounds like the cast iron manifold on my '70 442 stick car.  The '70
manual trans cars had the 90deg elbow for the PVC just like the
W-30 cars but the intake is cast iron instead of Aluminum.  A fairly
rare peice.

If you want me to confirm the numbers email me and I'll check when I
get home.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-speed M-21 3.42 posi

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:51:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaded gas question

> Dan,
>
> This beats sitting outside watching your snow grow or the frost making
> pretty designs on the windows.  Cabin feaver can be devastating.

Well, I suppose goin down to the TVA dam in Gunthersville on a Saturday night
to watch water flow *is* more exciting...

...plus, we *like* to keep up this image that there is still a glacial ice cap
in the North East, with towns like Boston, Portland and Providence the only
bastions of civilization in an artic tundra;  it helps to deter the riff-raff
in places like Decatur from thinking about moving here.

> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama

BTW, on-topic;  Leaded gas hasn't been sold in MA for at least 5 - 6 years.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:55:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Take a minute to pass this on...

>     LITTLE JESSICA MYDEK IS SEVEN YEARS OLD AND IS SUFFERING FROM
>AN ACUTE AND VERY RARE CASE OF CEREBRAL CARCINOMA.
[blah, blah, blah...]

I've got a better idea: take a minute to check things out before
blindly forwarding things. (And contrary to what Greg implied
yesterday, this took me _literally_ less than a minute to find. :-)

>From the American Cancer Society's web page, available at
http://www.cancer.org/chain.html

[quote...]
Fraudulent Chain Letter

            This statement may be copied or reprinted by online users

The American Cancer Society is greatly disturbed by reports of a
fraudulent chain letter circulating on the internet which lists the
American Cancer Society as a "corporate sponsor" but which has in no
way been endorsed by the American Cancer Society.
[...]
As far as the American Cancer Society can determine, the story of
Jessica Mydek is completely unsubstantiated. No fundraising efforts
are being made by the American Cancer Society using chain letters of
any kind. Furthermore, the email address ACS@AOL.COM is inactive.
Any messages to the American Cancer Society should be instead sent
through the American Cancer Society website at http://www.cancer.org.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:24:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Mystery manifold

From: WMACHINES@aol.com

>This intake is a 442 4spd intake.  it only came on 4spds with the double
>snorkel ends.  Not OAI but and air cleaner with 2 snorkels and two breathers
>going to the valve covers.  this was a 70-72 option.

Huh?  I've got the dual breather tubes (thus the requirment for the PVC in the
intake) but I dont have a dual snorkle air cleaner.  I cant recall ever seeing
a dual snorkle air cleaner for a '70.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:21:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Bridge Gauge

Web gauges are used on large diesel engines to measure distance between
block webs seating crank bearings-to measure deflection-apparently a
concern on some large engines. Don't know anything about use on auto
engines. Ask the "web mechanic" what webs he's gauging on the olds
block.
Kevin O'Brien

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:37:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 67 Toro Questions

At 04:31 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The Toros have the starter bolted to the transmission instead of the block.
>Do these blocks still have the conventional mounting provisions on the other
>side?

Yes; otherwise an engine swap would be very difficult.

>Do these things really have the switch pitch converters in 'em?

Yup, they do. I'd imagine Kenne-Bell would be able to work up a pretty neat
custom unit for you and your supercharged Toro (you've ordered the 6-71,
haven't you?)

>The '66 I'm looking at for parts has the ~really cool~ steering wheel with
>the horn buttons on the side of that butterfly shaped insert (Almost wanted
>to say bowtie, but that just ruins the coolness...)  Is anyone still with my

*Don't* say it... ;) Think of it as the butterfly steering wheel used on
slingshot dragsters from the '60's, and you'll be in the right ballpark.

>description (perfectly accurate as it is...)?  Is this wheel available on
>the '67s too?  (Would I be violating originality by swapping them?  (Not
>that it'd matter, but I'm still curious.)

Don't know, don't care: I'd use it whatever the case. It might be easier to
swap the whole column (very few electrical connections). Just watch out for
interchanging tilt/telescoping wheels and non-t/t columns.

>And finally, just how many acres are in those trunks!?!  Was Olds originally
>planning to put the 455 back there?

Neat how the rear tire slides into where the differential would normally go.
Check under there for rust, though; it usually hides under there (aren't you
on the Toro list yet? That's the topic of the week)

>This poor car hasn't moved in probably 8 years, and was meant to be my
>engine donor.  The Toro virus has taken hold, however, and no cure seems
>likely.  I already have the plates picked out, for God's sake!

"Resistance is Futile" I'm not kidding.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:37:59 -0300
Subject: Re: "NE Olds events" and "Winter...is...Over!!"

At 08:00 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Once again, folks like Dr. Bob in RI, Steve Bento on the North Shore,
>and other New Englanders (including Yours Truly) have survived another
>winter.
>
>Yesterday, we celebrated it by running a marathon from Hopkinton to Boston;
>and I observed the end of winter by putting away the snowblower.

Wow; it's only April 21! You're living on the edge these days, aren't you...
;)

>And waking up Big Red :) :) :)

Did you leave the snowtires on her still?

Maybe we "snowmen" could get together in the coming weeks; June 1 at
Berejik's seems too far away! How about some weekend in early May? Perhaps
someplace in the Rt.128 region around Boston? Or perhaps a run out to
Fusick's? I know; we can all lend Everett Horton a hand with the two
trailerfuls of NOS stuff he bought from Hall's- if we buy it, you won't have
to catalog it, right Everett? :)  Or maybe swarm over those parts cars of
Everett's (I'm *sure* Bud would appreciate *that*!).

Who's interested? I'll collect a list of names, and we can take this off
list if enough people are interested.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:38:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaded gas question

At 04:00 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> >Both are $4.00/gallon. I think I'll go hang out there on a Sat. night and
>>
>> You've got a heck of a life there, Bob.  Do you routinely go to gas
>> stations and watch people pump their gas?  :)
>
>This beats sitting outside watching your snow grow or the frost making
>pretty designs on the windows.  Cabin feaver can be devastating.

If it's sunny and above 40', we consider it a "beach-day".

About watching the gas pumps...

The rumor has it that there's some pretty serious street-racing in this
area, but you never see anything hotter than a mid-80's IROC with the stupid
skateboard wheels around here. Until I saw these gas pumps, I discounted
these rumors, but I don't think they'd have these pumps if nobody ever
bought the stuff. So I figure they must only come out at night, and I'd be
like Marlin Perkins behind some bushes with a nightscope, trying to see
these rare beasts.

Of course, after a day at work, and putting the baby down to bed, I don't
usually say to my wife "OK, honey, I'm going to go bet $3,000 that I can get
to 130mph on a narrown side-street faster than some stranger who might be
carrying a gun. Do you want me to pick up some milk on the way home?" (BTW,
these pumps are in the "low-rent" district of the city, so we don't pass
them by all that often)

I think I'll restrict my racing to the track; probably safer in a number of
respects.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:38:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Toropony?

At 10:10 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> The '66-'68's were all 385hp. The '69-'70's were only 375hp. Unless you're
>> talking about the '68-'70 W-34's; then they've got 400hp even.
>
>I guess putting one of those W-34 engines in a 442 would come close or
>surpass a H/O.

Of course, you have to take the HP ratings of these cars with a grain of
salt. Though my '69 is rated at 375hp, I *doubt* it has 5hp on a W-30 motor!
In fact, the cams and carb calibrations on the W-34's were milder than the
W-30's, and virtually identical to the W-33 or standard-transmission'ed 442
motors.

They'd make a great 442 motor though. Old-timers here will recall Chris Witt
burning up the ª1 bearing on a built 425 motor that pushed an '81 Cutlass to
14.20's in the quarter mile. He installed a *stock* 1966 425 Toro motor, and
the car promptly ran 13.6's with no changes! (or something like that; check
the archives for the actual details)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 03:19:49 -0300
Subject: Re: 67 Toro Questions

>     Couple points I've noticed and wonderred about.
>
>The Toros have the starter bolted to the transmission instead of the block.
>Do these blocks still have the conventional mounting provisions on the other
>side?
>
>Anyone have any historical trivia about their ignition switches?  I see the
>keys say "GM" on one side, and "Briggs and Stratten" on the other.  One hell
>of a lawnmower!  ("Hey Bubba!  Come check out my new 385 horse Garden
>Tractor!!!")
I think Briggs and Stratten made locks at one point, maybe they still do.
My `67 Cutlass has briggs and stratten keys and the repro keys for my dad's
`28 f*rd are made by briggs and stratten.  Allthough that ford isn't very
far removed from a briggs and stratten in terms of power. :)

>Do these things really have the switch pitch converters in 'em?

Yup.

>And finally, just how many acres are in those trunks!?!  Was Olds originally
>planning to put the 455 back there?

....14.5 cubic feet of trunk capacity.  And actually, according to the sales
literature I have here, it's got the smallest trunk of any Olds that year.
(that can't be right, can it?) The cutlasses and 88s had around 20 cu ft and
the ninety-eight had 23 cu ft.  As for the Vista-Cruisers, well, let's just
say I think I could fit a morris mini in the back of mine if i let the air
out the tires first. (let the air out of the tires of the mini, that is)

...and if you think that trunk's big, wait 'till the first time you pour 24
gallons of premium down that gas tank. :)

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:36:38 -0300
Subject: Prepare to be amazed! (was: 81 cutlass & katana name/rambling)

In a message dated 97-04-22 01:43:25 EDT, you write:

<< I know it would work wonders for my Calais, but imagine what it would do
 in a bike.  Then again, what if it was set up for making power at 10 or
 11,000rpm?  Those heads really do breathe!
 (I saw recently in a bike mag that the current bike power champ has about
 160hp from an 1100cc engine.  What's that, over 160hp/liter? Wow.)

 Anyway, just thinking out loud again.

    Jim Townsend >>

The power of a bike is amazing, but you're wrong about the champion in HP for
a bike (may be an older book, or this years competition at Daytona was rather
weak).  The deal is every year at Daytone Bike Week they have a company
called Dynojet (re-jetting kits for bike carbs.), and they hold a streetbike
HP shootout (bring a dyno down there, and run the bike on it, best one wins).
 A year ago (I think, maybe two), there was a Suzuki GSX-R1100 which I think
had been bored out, turbo, etc., that put out 50 rear wheel HP (remember one
thing here, that means more HP at the crank due to frictional losses, etc.),
and the most I've seen them be able to be overbored (using sleeves) is like
1400, or so cc.'s).  There has also been a Kawasaki Ninja 1100 that was bored
also I think, with turbo, etc. also, that put out 450 rear wheel HP.
 Remember one other thing, these bikes are street capable, lights signals,
etc, and are cafe style.  Outrageous when you look at what they can do, and
both those bike would run up to approx. 12-15,000 RPM, or os in doing this.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:20:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Jim..thinking outloud

Jim- yoiu were talking about 100hp/liter engines. I can think of a few off the
top
of my head.. The Talon/Eclipse 2.0 turbo 210 hp (105 hp/ltr). The Acura NSX-T
(103) and the Acura GSX-r (102). Its fairly common among the japanese
manufactures today to produce engines w/ over 100 hp/liter.




=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:34:57 -0300
Subject: Subject: Re: Clock...

> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 14:05:02 -0300
> Subject: Re: Clock...
>
> >> Anyone out there that can tell us about the quality of the quartz
> >> conversion that Year One offers?  Or did I just piss away $125 clams?
>
> Ouch. The price has gone way up since I last had this done... I paid a
> local outfit $65 for this same project on my '76 Cutlass Supreme some
> years back. It ran perfectly for years after that.
>
> >Well, a few years ago for 29.95, I bought a quartz conversion for my 71
> >tic toc tac borg clock from the perrenial J.C. and the boys.  I changed
> >it out, and it's been running fine, and keepin' time, since 1992!
>
> I imagine that might have been where my local outfit was buying them from,
> but J.C. Whitney doesn't have 'em anymore and the company I used to use is
> gone now. Maybe Year One bought up the last of the supply, and knows it.
>
> FWIW, the conversion worked pretty well for me; I ended up having four
> clocks converted over the years for various GM cars. One clock went bad,
> after about eighteen months, but was replaced under warranty.
>
> Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331

I just called Instrument Services in Roscoe, IL about their ad in
Hemmings selling quartz clocks for conversion of mechanical ones.  They
want
$44 for my Borg Tic Toc Tac.  They have models for lots of cars (mostly
Borg).
I will probably get one real soon.  They provide instructions for
installation.
Their number is 1-800-558-2674.


- --
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL
mailto:brett@mcs.com

72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)
96 Impala SS (black)

------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:42:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 7040250 Carb

Mike,
Did you find your carb? What does that fit anyway?

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:42:15 -0300
Subject: '87 Salon Options

I have the GM service manual for my '86 Supreme that I had to bury
about 6 months ago. I was checking the book for the options codes
in the trunk of my '87 Salon and some of the codes are not in the
'86 book. Does anybody out there know what these codes mean

799  YT9  79C  J41 O47 STE UX1

The code for the '86 high capcity cooling is  V08  extra cap. is
VO3  What is the code for the '87 Salon , or does it come
automatically with the Salon

------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:16:15 -0300
Subject: Re: 56 Olds

To the lucky guy who recently purchased the '56 88...  I was searching the
internet classifieds last night and found a guy that is parting out a
complete '56 88 4-door.  The ad said the parts were in great shape and very
cheap.  The e-mail address is:  kita@tcoe.trinity.k12.ca.us  Located in
California...

> >I have recently purchased a 1956 Super 88. The automatic transmission
> >does not shift smoothly into 2nd gear unless I let up on the
> >accelleration. If not, the trans clunks during that shift.

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:12:46 -0300
Subject: Re: The Carburetor Shop Address

>
> Well, I have found something interesting out while doing some checking
around
> for my carb and intake.  I was talking to Edelbrock, and they recommended
a
> place to have my Rochester rebuilt (remember, this was recomended by
> Edelbrock's tech line).  So I called, and found out the following:
>
> The place is called:
> Mike Jones Company (Jones Fuel Systems)
> 17491 Apex Circle
> Huntington Beach, Ca. 92647
> 714-848-5500
>
> You send them the core, along with all application information which who
have
> (car, engine, manifold, cam, gearing, etc., and intended useage) and they
> will rebuild the carb (including bush the shafts) in about 1-2 weeks (as
I
> remember from a few months ago), and return it to you.  Total time
> investment, roughly 3 weeks (1 out, 1 there, 1 back).  Cost was quoted as
> $145, and it had a 1 yr. warranty on it.
>
> Maybe others have used them before, sounds like a decent deal to me.  Any
> information on them from others?
I havent used them but they arent newbys in the carb buisness. I have never
heard any thing bad about them.
Walter

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:17:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 81 cutlass & katana name/rambling

I wrenched on a ski-doo racer, a budy and I built that had (dynoed) 120 hp
out of a 440 cc Rotax endine. It would also reach over a 100 mph in 750 ft.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:47:54 -0300
Subject: Re: "Bridge Gauge"

>
> 0At 12:53 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >>Has anyone ever used a bridge gauge when rebuilding an engine.
> >>One mechanic says you can't rebuild an olds engine without one
> >>and another mechanic never heard of it.
> This is used to check the valvestem height after a valvejob is done. The
> outer arms of the tool rest on the valve-cover surfaces, and the middle
> finger of the tool is supposed to just contact the top of the valvestem.
If
> the valvestem is too long, you cut it down to fit; the valvestem would be
> too long because a valvejob cuts down the valve seat, whihc puts the
valve
> higher in the head. This is to account for the non-adjustable rocker arms
on
> the Olds; if the valvestem is too high, then the pushrod will be placing
too
> much preload on the lifter.
>
> On my engine, I just used a $10 pack of shims to get the proper preload
for
> each lifter; most I needed was .040" worth of shims, so everything was
> The one who says you don't need it either doesn't know what you're
talking
> about, knows what you're talking about but has some alternative method
for
> establishing proper valvetrain geometry (i.e. shimming the rockers), or
> knows what you're talking about but doesn't care enough to actually check
> these measurements. You can always ask him how he establishes the proper
> valvetrain geometry on an Olds engine; if he says "Huh?" or "Aw, ya don't
> need to do that", then run, don't walk, from that man. If he has another
> answer, listen carefully.
You don't have to have a fancy gauge to check this dimension , but the
proper valve stem height isnt given in most service manuals. What they give
is the installed spring height. This is the distance from the spring seat
to the bottom of the retainer or rotator. The stem height is measured from
the spring seat to the tip of the valve stem.
The AERA Cylinder head book gives this important specification for nearly
all heads. . I can look it up for any one that is interested I just need
the casting ª of the head. To check it all you have to use is a dial
caliper. I use a little tool that slips over the guide and sits on the
spring seat. It is simply a adjustable  threaded two piece sleeve that I
can set to the required height. I then trim the stem till it is the same as
the gauge. Its much faster than measuring each one.
If for some reason I don't have the specificaton I just check it before I
grind the valves and seats and put it back like the factory left it. This
is provided the head hasnt been worked on by some one else or the valves
arent recessed due to unleaded gas.
Olds engines arent the only ones that need this checked. It is critical
for any engine that doesnt have adjustable rockers. This includes all Fords
since 68,all Mopars,  new B/B Chevys, Pontiacs ect. Even if the valve train
is adjustable the geometry goes out of wack if this is too far off causeing
valve guide wear and other problems.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Douglas Hampton <douglas@snowcrest.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 03:49:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Take a minute to pass this on... (fwd) -Forwarded

Matthew Butler wrote:

>
>      LITTLE JESSICA MYDEK IS SEVEN YEARS OLD AND IS SUFFERING FROM
> AN ACUTE AND VERY RARE CASE OF CEREBRAL CARCINOMA. THIS CONDITION
> CAUSES SEVERE MALIGNANT BRAIN TUMORS AND IS A TERMINAL ILLNESS.  THE
> DOCTORS HAVE GIVEN HER SIX MONTHS TO LIVE. AS PART OF HER DYING
> WISH, SHE WANTED TO START A CHAIN LETTER TO INFORM PEOPLE OF THIS
> CONDITION AND TO SEND PEOPLE THE MESSAGE TO  LIVE LIFE TO THE FULLEST AND
> ENJOY EVERY MOMENT, A CHANCE THAT SHE WILL NEVER HAVE. FURTHERMORE, THE
> AMERICAN CANCER SOCIETY AND SEVERAL CORPORATE SPONSORS HAVE AGREED TO
> DONATE THREE CENTS TOWARD CONTINUING CANCER RESEARCH FOR EVERY NEW PERSON
> THAT GETS FORWARDED THIS MESSAGE.  PLEASE GIVE JESSICA AND ALL CANCER
> VICTIMS A CHANCE.  IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS, SEND THEM TO THE AMERICAN
> CANCER SOCIETY AT ACS@AOL.COM.
>


This email has been circulating for years...it is a hoax...  Disregard
it.

- --
Doug

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:41:56 -0300
Subject: Factory HP ratings (was: Toropony?)

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> The '66-'68's were all 385hp. The '69-'70's were only 375hp. Unless you're
> talking about the '68-'70 W-34's; then they've got 400hp even.

I guess putting one of those W-34 engines in a 442 would come close or
surpass a H/O.

Chris

          I've noted this here before (apologies if you find this
          redundant), but the factory HP ratings of the 60's have as
          much credibility as Slick Willie (OK, sorry about the
          political humor - NOT!).  Keep in mind that the 70 W-30,
          which had a more radical cam and better flowing heads and
          intake than the W-34, was only rated at 370 HP.  Mighty
          suspicious until you realize that GM Corporate mandated a 10
          pound per HP minimum limit on all cars except the Corvette.
          The 442, to add to the conspiracy theory, had a curb weight
          of about 3700 lbs.  Coincidence?  I think not!

          In fact, it's kind of hard to believe that all the W-30
          equipment only raised the HP of the base 442 engine by 5-10
          HP (do you really believe that the 66 W-30 setup didn't
          change the 360 HP rating of the L-69 tri-carb engine?).  It
          is curious that the various year W-30 HP ratings were almost
          always 1/10 of the curb weight of the car for that year!

          And, of course, the H/O was not subject to the GM 10 pound
          per HP limit (since it was theoretically built outside of
          Oldsmobile), so they were allowed to advertise 390 HP in the
          68 H/O.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 16:18:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Points to HEI

>At 06:19 PM 4/21/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>Hi all,
>>
>>What are we looking at in terms of cost to convert from Points to HEI?
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>I've done it several times for less than $50.
>
>The Wiz

Thanks for all the details!!!

Seriously, I have been told over and over that "most" big-block Olds had
the same distributor (I have a 1965 425 in a 98). So I could probably use
any big-block HEI distributor. Right?

What would be the most common? (442, 98, doesn't matter???)

I have some reservations about getting a used HEI dist. Am I paranoid? What
should I look for (bad stuff) when buying a used dist.???

Would the advance curves be the same for all dists.?? (Kinda doubt it).

Let's say I wanted to change the advance curve. What would I need to do?
Would I have to do this? (I assume it would be ill advised to have too
aggressive an advance curve in a 98 with that boats tall gearing...)

I am assuming that it is just weights and springs. Can you get these in
known values or do you just order them for make and model of car? Can you
order them at all?? Where can you find out the advance curve on a
distributor?

Comments please...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Denney J Keys <Denney.J.Keys.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:22:35 -0300
Subject: Lead on 15X7 Wheels...

Saw this ad posted at work, not sure of condition or if they are even OEM
(really don't know what came on '81 Deltas), but for anyone interested:

For Sale
15"x7" chrome wheel rims, 4 w/all h/w, bolt pattern (4.75"), came off 1981
Olds Delta 88, $100, 301/470-3470

------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:54:00 -0300
Subject: Warranty question

I visited a friend of mine in upstate NY this weekend.  He owns a '71
W30 with 23K orig. miles.  It is without a doubt the nicest 442 I've
seen as far  as cleanliness and unrestored originality.  He also has all
of the documentation on the car, including the window sticker, build
sheet (found behind pass. side of rear seat back), and all of the
service receipts.  The original owner apparently had problems with
squeeking noises from the front end (receipt for new sway bar
busings/mounts and rebuilding of right upper control arm) and vibration
during braking (receipt for removing factory balance weights from the
rear brake drums).  There was a charge for all of these services, even
though the receipts clearly show the milage as being in the low teens
and the dates were from late '72/early 73.  The car was purchased in
June of '71.    I thought the 442 came with a 3 year/36000 mile
warranty.  For you orignal owners out there, my question is what was the
warranty protection, and how cooperative were the dealerships when your
442 was towed in with spun bearings from some late night combat on the
streets?

Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 16:11:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Pony cars (WAS Re: "Real" Musclecars)

>        " Yup.  The way I've always understood it, a ponycar was just a
> sporty car that had a long hood, and short trunk following the lines of
> the Mustang, or GMs equivilant.  I think the 'Cuda would fit into this
> catagory as well.

>
> So according to this definition, even the Achieva and Calais can be
> considered ponycars? (at least in their performance versions?)

Well, not quite. Both are lacking some of the characteristics that
define a pony car--neither is strictly a 2 door car, and neither has a 2+2
seating arrangement.  The Calais also seems a little big (midsize).
However, in their performance versions they might both qualify as Muscle
Cars (depending on just how you want to define *that* :)  Particuarly the
Calais...it's a midsize, and with a powerful engine, it would be following
the equasion used to make the GTO, GTX, GTA Farilanes, etc.  Now, before
anybody starts on the 400cid thing again, I'm not saying that the Calais
is a hardcore, firebreathing, V8 horsepower monster....I'm just saying
that it follows the pattern used to make a Muscle Car...
Anyway, I hope this clears things up a little bit...

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 16:49:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds in McDonald's Ad

William Goodnight wrote:

> Have any of you caught the McDonalds 1950's prices TV commercial? In the
front of
the Mickey D's drive-in is a 1950 Holiday hardtop. Let's hear it for the
classic Oldsmobiles.

Didn't notice this, but I did see the *ss end of a '69 Delta 88 ragtop
parked out front of Jerry's or Elaine's apartment building on a recent
episode of "Seinfeld" (George builds nap area under work desk). It was
white with a dark top, no rear hubcap! I can't believe I caught this. Gotta
wait for the rerun.

Chalk it up to cabin fever, I can't wait to get outside and watch them pump
gas ;)


Paul Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
'69 Delta 88 Conv 455

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 17:44:50 -0300
Subject: want '65 info

Does any body know were you can get a 20'-25' roll of brake line at?
I've tried local auto stores and have looked in catalogs, but I can't
find it this long. I don't want to use multiple pieces going from the
front to the rear of my car like it is now(repairs).

Thanx
Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 17:35:13 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.

**** New stuff to list****
69 Long Stroke 400 cu in engine (from automatic car, complete)  $400.00
will not ship, you pick up or arrange shipping.

70-72 N.O.S. LH Fender  $400.00
N.O.S. SSI Center Caps  $40.00 ea
N.O.S. SSII/III Center Caps  $40.00 ea
71-72 N.O.S. Stone Shield  $50.00
71-72 N.O.S. Headlight Housings (plastic)  $100.00 pr
71-72 N.O.S. Cutlass Rear Bumper  $400.00
72 N.O.S. 442 RH Grille  $300.00
69 442 Rear bumper (Nice)   $140.00
66-69 14x6 SSI Wheels (All chrome) non disc brakes  $40.00 ea
70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $25.00 ea
69 Headlight doors (more sets)  $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
70  12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea

64 Cutlass/442
(1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
(1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
RH Headlight Door    $25.00
F. Bumper Core    $75.00
RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
Steering Wheel Center   $10.00

65 Cutlass/442
(1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $20.00
66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
$20.00 each
400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
(2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $25.00
68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
(4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
69 442 Grilles (very good)  $180.00 pr
Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue   $10.00
LH Tail Light    $20.00
4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00

70 Cutlass/442
70-71 Short Wheelwell Moldings  $100.00 set of 4
70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $40.00 pr
69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
(1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
(1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
(1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire

72 Cutlass/442
(4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
Dash Pads (A/C car, black)   $100.00 ea
(5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00

Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set

P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
$24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire
console shift lens. Beautiful reproduction. $35.00 plus $3.00 shipping.  We
are getting ready to tool up for the 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate shift lens for
reproduction soon.

Jim Chermack
'70 SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: "Frank Gonzalez" <frank@tridentsound.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 18:50:46 -0300
Subject: Re: My Olds Weekend

> Everything was going just great! Until... I shut down the motor and was
> cleaning up my tools when KA-Frickin-BOOM... the upper radiator hose
> blew off AGAIN! This time I wasn't so lucky. The hot water soaked my
> left pants leg and shoe. By the time I got cold water on it I had real
> neat 2nd degree burns on my left foot and right knee. After some
> neighborly coaxing... I went to the hospital.
> Even after all of this, I'm tickled to death that she's running again.
> Those flat top pistons and the W-31 cam sound great. Even with the set
> backs I'm hoping that I'll be back on the road next weekend to break
> this thing in. All-in-all, knee's OK, foot's kinda OK, cars doing great!
> Thanks for letting me vent some steam (pun intended)!
> David Nye
> '71 Cutlass Supreme Rag-Top
>
Ouch,same thing hapeened to me a few years back,no fun at all,lost all my
skin on my leg.
What converter\gears are you running with that cam?
Frank
70 442
71 442 W30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:38:50 -0300
Subject: test, erase



------------------------------

From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@mail.bright.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 19:52:22 -0300
Subject: Re: My Olds Weekend

At 12:36 AM 4/22/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 08:03 PM 4/21/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>David,
>>
>>No flames here, those are the kind of stories I like to see on the list.
>>Glad you found the oil problem. But what's the deal on those hoses? I
>>know that pressure can build up after a hot engine is shut off, but twice
>>in a row?
_________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918




Just a word of warning to all.  I had a cooling problem ~5 yrs. ago on a 455
in '70 W-30 I rebuilt.  My problem occurred after I had put ~ 500 mi. on the
car.  At first it would only overheat in heavy stop and go traffic.  Highway
driving wasn't alot better.  Finally it got to the point that even idling 5
or 10 minutes and the car would severly overheat.  I tried everything (or
what I thought was everything) new thermostat, radiator flush, radiator
re-core, different style fans, I even thought it was airlocked. No go. Water
flow appeared to be o.k. at idle.  Finally after trying so many different
things, I ended up scorring cylinder ª3.  When I began to tear down the
engine, I took the rebuilt water pump off (which looked like it had good
flow at idle) and found that the impeller was slipping on the shaft ever so
slightly.  At low rpm's the impeller was able to keep up with the engine,
but at higher rpm's wasn't able to provide enough water flow through the
engine to cool it sufficiently.  I took the water pump back to the parts
house I purchased it from and together approached the water pump rebuild
service.  I explained to them how much I had spent on rebuilding the engine
and how their waterpump caused the damage.  As it turned out, the impeller
shaft/impeller combination was unable to meet spec tolerances and to my
surprise, and without conflict, they agreed to pay for all the hardware to
bring the engine back up to snuff. In addition they paid me for my tear down
& rebuild time.  This is not one of those deals where you make out like a
bandit either, I was just able to get the engine back where it should have
been in the first place.  Looking back at it, I probably could have gotten
some pain and suffering compensation as well!!!!


Kevin (Yes I still use rebuilt water pumps from time to time) Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 17:50:00 -0300
Subject: Wanted: 70 SX

     A friend is looking for a 70 Cutlass SX hardtop. Please reply directly
since I am currently "unsubscribed" due to too much msg traffic at work !

*************************************************************
John Pajak     "DR. OLDS"     (301) 863-5319
Lexington Park, MD
Pajak_John%PAX1@MR.NAWCAD.NAVY.MIL

65 Delta 88
66 Toronado
69 Cutlass S
70 Cutlass S W31
70 442 W30 convert
72 442 W30 convert
72 Delta 88 convert
+ others

------------------------------

From: "Steve Bento" <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 23:17:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi rearend????

- ----------
> > From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> <snip>
> > it.  Am I looking in the wrong spot?  If it is posi how much would it
> > cost to get it rebuilt?
>
> Bryan,
>
> I have a 12 bolt Posi with ruined mounting brackets (cut off by junkyard
> w/torch, because they were too lazy to undo the bolts) and an open rear
> with great housing.  I asked the rear-end specialist how much he would
> charge to switch the guts and replace the bearings and clutches.  He
quoted
> me $500.  Between coughs and sputters, I told him that I was friends with
> So-and-so.  He then said he could do it for $300.  Just to switch the
> stinkin' parts!  Posi work isn't cheap, by any means.  The
> price/availability of the parts doesn't help any, either.  I would guess
> you're looking at $300 - $700, depending on what's broken (and who you
know
> <g>).  But that's just my best guess.  Anyone else?
>
> -Blaine
> '72 Cutlass Supreme
>
>

This price sounds high, A buddy of mine had 3.73's installed and the posi
rebuilt in his 90 Mustang GT. I am sure that the parts for the Ford  would
be cheaper than an Olds,  but this job still only cost him $300 parts and
labor...

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: mtpoole <mtpoole@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:51:07 -0300
Subject: buick,olds pontiac magazine

i,m looking for a copy of buick,olds pontiac collectors guide monthly
6/1993  with a cutlass sx on the front  at the top of the front page
INDY PACE CAR MANIA


THANK YOU
MICHAEL POOLE
1970 CUTLASS SX W-32

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:52:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 67 Toro Questions



> The '66 I'm looking at for parts has the ~really cool~ steering wheel
with
> the horn buttons on the side of that butterfly shaped insert (Almost
wanted
> to say bowtie, but that just ruins the coolness...)  Is anyone still with
my
> description (perfectly accurate as it is...)?  Is this wheel available on
> the '67s too?  (Would I be violating originality by swapping them?  (Not
> that it'd matter, but I'm still curious.)

My 66  Delta 88 has the wheel you like your Toro. Its also tilt and
telescoping. Do Y'all think this has ben transplanted from a Toro or was
this avaible on all big cars?
Walter


------------------------------

From: "Blaines" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:04:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Posi rearend????

>
> This price sounds high, A buddy of mine had 3.73's installed and the posi
> rebuilt in his 90 Mustang GT. I am sure that the parts for the Ford
would
> be cheaper than an Olds,  but this job still only cost him $300 parts and
> labor...

Tell me about it ;)  Of course, the expert I was referring to works at the
Olds dealership and charges the standard dealership mechanics rate (which
around here translates to $60/hour last I checked).  I had my buddy who
used to work with him call him, and got him to agree to doing it for me
after hours for a flat $100 + parts.  He's been rebuilding GM rearends for
thirty years.  It's his specialty, and no one else in town is qualified.
All the other mechanics in town send thier customers to him for rearend
work.

I've never checked into F*rd parts, but I imagine that they would be quite
a bit cheaper than Olds parts...

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:33:45 -0300
Subject: Re: '87 Salon Options

On Tue, 22 Apr 1997, Peter L. House wrote:

> '86 book. Does anybody out there know what these codes mean
>
> 799  YT9  79C  J41 O47 STE UX1
>
799 and 79C sound like interior color codes

UX1 is a radio code

Can't help with the others, sorry.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª626
********************************
