To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #684


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 20 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 684

Re: A sticky problem
Re: '67 442 ?'s
Re:Thermostat 2 cents
Surface tension of coolant
Digest Number 682
Re: Pictures in this list
Re: Surface tension of coolant
Re: '67 442 ?'s
Re: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint
Re: HOT ROD article
Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?
Re: new papa-again!!
Re: Wood grain decals
Re: 66 425
Re: My '70 Olds 4-Door
Re: One for the Cutlass folks
Re Yellow interior
Re: One for the Cutlass folks
Re: A sticky problem
Jpgs
Re: A sticky problem
Re: any 70's out there
Lots of Olds cars for sale
Re: Digest Number 682
Subject: Re: Need clutch fan test
Re: Dyno testing, etc.
"OW" fan clutch / Clutch fans for sale
Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???
Re: A sticky problem
Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???
Re: A sticky problem
Re: Re Yellow interior
RE: any 70's out there
Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª683
Re: '68 442, '70 convertible
'77 442
Re: Dyno testing, etc.
'50 Parts wanted
Ooops! (Re: Sticky Problem)
Re: Wiz?
Re: any 70's out there
Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor
Re: My '70 Olds 4-Door
Re: 66 425
Re: HOT ROD article
65 CUTLASS/ F-85
UNBOUNCE: '77 442
Re: HOT ROD article
Re: Apology (was Re: 71' 442)
Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)
Re: any 70's out there
Re: '50 Parts wanted
Re: A sticky problem
Re: Unbounce: Cam Walking
Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 06:18:51 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

There is a product out there called GooGone that can be found at Wal-Mart
that works on any glue product.  You may want to try this.

- ----------
> From: Jay Britt <jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: A sticky problem
> Date: Monday, May 19, 1997 9:12 PM
>=20
> Has anyone out there ever had to remove that cheap, glass tinting film
> adhesive from your glass? I've tried every type of adhesive remover I
> can find, but no luck. Today I tried 3M Adhesive Remover from a local
> paint supply house. This is used for removing weatherstripping and
> probably vinyl tops, but it won't touch this glue on the windows.
> I would appreciate any advise.
>=20
> Thanks,
> Jay Britt
>=20
> '67 Cutlass Supreme
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> __________________________________________________________
> Jay Britt                        360=B0 Communications =20
> Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services  =20
> (757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
> (757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
> mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
> mailto:jay.britt@360.com
> __________________________________________________________
> This message was sent from a wireless data device using
> 360=B0 Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 06:42:08 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

On Mon, 19 May 1997, Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> > 988 trim = yellow cloth and vinyl buckets (these must be *very* rare!)
>
> Sorry Greg,
> Don't want to publicly humiliate you, but these seats were 100% vinyl.
> No cloth was available in yellow.

Oh, the shame of it all... the humiliation! ;-)

My source for this was a factory chart entitled "1967 Oldsmobile Trim
Combination / Oldsmobile Sales and Car Order conversions". They list 2
lines for both yellow and champagne interiors (all other colors only have a
single line). They offered a bunch of interior colors in '67: black,
pewter, green, blue, champagne, gold, red, burgundy, garnet, turquoise,
yellow, and dubonnet -- how's that for choice? Anyway, the 2 lines for
yellow list 2 different choices in a Supreme and 2 more for a regular
Cutlass. The regular Cutlass could be apparently had with a yellow bench
seat. The Supremes show a choice of a 978/38, which is yellow bucket
seats with vinyl trim, or a 988/68, which is the cloth and vinyl buckets
I referred to earlier.

So as the saying goes, "you could look it up". Whether they ever made
such a combo is still an open question, but it *is* listed. So it's not
so humiliating after all... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 07:11:25 -0300
Subject: Re:Thermostat 2 cents

Eric Aksomitis wrote:

> 1) When you consider that a cooling system is pump driven, it must
> therefore have pressure and vacuum points to some extent.....
Right.

> therefore it must (ok, could) follow:
> With a thermostat, the entire engine block would be under more pressure
> than the radiator, thus making it heavier, and able to pick up heat
> easier from the motor. <SNIPPPPPPP>
Wrong.
ª1 The water is pumped OUT of engine, down the radiator.....
ª2 The volume of water does not change under pressure.

On the other hand, a slight vacuum might lower the boiling temperature
thus causing more bubbles........

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 07:15:04 -0300
Subject: Surface tension of coolant

Wiz and other cool(ant) guys.

Would it be that the rinse agent used in dish machines would do the
same job as does the "wetter water" and Photo-Flo ?

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 07:27:51 -0300
Subject: Digest Number 682

Nice pictures. =O(

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 07:39:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Pictures in this list

First I get half a megabyte of egyptian hieroglyphes.

Then the next digest starts with a message saying :
 "Did those pictures even get thru? I'm pretty new at this."

No, I didn't get p**sed, I think this is most humorous. This actually
saved my day. (Still laughing).

Would somebody send me a description how to decode base-64 ?

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:01:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Surface tension of coolant

Esko Ilola wrote:
>
> Wiz and other cool(ant) guys.
>
> Would it be that the rinse agent used in dish machines would do the
> same job as does the "wetter water" and Photo-Flo ?

It performs the same function, yes.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 09:00:30 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 442 ?'s

At 01:47 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>On Mon, 19 May 1997, Mike Turley wrote:
>>
>> It had Y-2 paint code and 988-B trim code, aren't these the codes for
>> yellow ext., yellow int., and a black top??
>
>Y paint code = Saffron (yellow)
>988 trim = yellow cloth and vinyl buckets (these must be *very* rare!)
>2 = black top (I think, can't find this in my '67 chart but '69 had that
>code)
>
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>My 66' Cutlass Holiday Coupe HT has a trim code of T-2
 Seirra Mist/Black Top
T-Seirra MIst
2- Black top
I also have a rare split bench with folding arm reat in my car with a build
date of 07D.....last week of july 1966
                                                         Robert
                                                         1966 Cutlass
Holiday Coupe
                                                         52,825 original miles
                                                         3rd owner

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 09:03:29 -0300
Subject: Re: '69 Cutlass 4bbl Red Air cleaner paint

At 02:21 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>A couple questions:
>
>1)  I am about to paint the 4bbl Air cleaner on my Cutlass, and I have had
>little luck finding a close match to the shade of red that is on it.  It (as
>most of you know) is kind of an orangish-red and I have looked all over, and
>haven't found anything too close.  The closest I have found so far is Krylon
>"Banner Red," but it still doesn't have quite enough of the orangish tint to
>it.  Anyone know where to find something closer without having it custom
>mixed?
>
>2)  I am still looking for a paint match for the Gold color high-heat
>resistant engine paint on my 350, and every single color I have doesn't
>quite match.  Year one told me that they discontinued selling what they had,
>due to the fact that it really didn't match either.  Has anyone found a good
>reliable paint that matches?
>
>Thanks,
>
>It's good to be back!
>  .
>/ | \
>| | |
>|/|\|
>\ | /
>Jeff Zeilmann
>SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
>'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible
>
>A good authority on Olds restorations, Art Fuller @ MEFCO in Ft.Worth told
me for my 66 Cutlass that Krylon Ford Red engine paint was as close as u
could get...thats what I painted mine with

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 07:32:18 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

Hi Marty,

> last year we had his car at the track and it ran 13.8 melting the ª7
> piston.  we thought the gas was mixed with racing fuel good enough but
> it wasn't.. I have to retard the timing on my 68 442 to run it on 93
> oct. otherwise it octane knocks like hell. and its only running 10.5:1

I have been down that road before (retarding the timing) and it is not
fun to drive the car.  It seems like it wants to go but doesn't.  What I
have tried to reduce the pinging is to use octane booster.  If I use
104+ consistently (the whole bottle) with each tank of gas, I get
pinging
to a minimum.  I guess another alternative is to have the distributer
recurved.

Later...

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 09:37:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 1977 Hurst Olds?

Hi, I am glad to see that everyone is interested in the 77 Hurst/Olds. So if
you all would like to see it, please go to the Hurst/Olds web page and look
at the photos of the Hursts then at the end click on :proto types, they have
a great pic of it there-
http://www.hurstolds.com/
Yes there is only ONE .

Hope this helps!!
Jeffrey T Fieldsend- Board of Director for OCC= Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes
73-77
Web page- http://members.aol.com/CUTLASCOUP/index.html

OCA
H/OCA

Owner: 75 Hurst/Olds W-25, Hurst/Olds W-30

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:36:49 -0300
Subject: Re: new papa-again!!

Now when you come across that next W-machine you can just tell your wife
it's for the newest when she learns to drive - congratulations by the way!

That's why I had five - I have five excuses (I'm down to two now however)
for future cars -

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 01:04:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Wood grain decals

I got an inquiry on my web page about who stocks these for the Vista
Cruisers.  I took mine OFF and have just heard rumors as to the cost.
Anyone know who carries these?

Thanks in advance -

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 01:02:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 425

 managed to find the only
>set of 425 0.030" pistons in Canada!
Now we'll see if there are any left in the US!!  I know now not to look in
Canada.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:56:06 -0300
Subject: Re: My '70 Olds 4-Door

I'll be doing a revised version of your changeover this summer - dropping
the '67 400 CID out of a 442 in my Vista Cruiser (hey, its a 5 door!).
I'll probably do the AutoMeter Tach retrofit as well - the car won't be
stock and I'm a gauge lover so...sounds good.  Interesting to hear about
your 0.30 bore over & piston change, I'd been hearing stories that pistons
would be hard to come by.

Lets hear it for the off-beat - Big Boys!!


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:51:43 -0300
Subject: Re: One for the Cutlass folks

>> I really get a kick out of people wh complement my Jetstar 88 by saying
>> "Nice Impala"  Then I kindly tell them what the car is.  I don't get
>> uptight about it.
At least they identify your car in some way - they always look at my '67
Delta and say "thats a nice car - WHAT is it?"


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 00:49:53 -0300
Subject: Re Yellow interior

I used to have a '67 Sales brochure and if I'm not mistaken, didn't they
have a photo of a yellow rag top 4-4-2 with yellow interior?  I know it was
a yellow car as it had the thin red wall tires and it looked SO nice with
the SSI's.

Someone out there has a brochure - see if age has dimmed the brain cells
here (hey, I'm talking 17 years of memory from when I had this brochure).


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '72 Vista Cruiser project

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 10:07:13 -0300
Subject: Re: One for the Cutlass folks

Mike Coccagna wrote:
>
> Well, over the weekend at a vintage car race, I was walking into the
> paddock area and a blue Ch*velle ragtop was pulling out.   Instantly,
> thoughts of 442, SX, and Cutlass owners rushed into my head, reiterating
those > words hated by everyone ....  "Nice Ch*velle!".  Seeing the moment, I >
turned to my friend and said (loud enough for the driver and his > girlfriend
to hear) - "Gee, that's a nice looking CUTLASS!"  We > proceeded a few steps
when the driver turned around and shouted > "Sorry, this ain't no Cutlass!" > >
If you could only see the surprised look on his face!!!!  I'm sure he > was
calling me all sorts of names afterwards, but it sure was worth > it! > >
Have a good day! > > Mike > '91 442 > '93 SCX

Nice call, gotta try that around here and see what reactions I get.
Can't wait to see their faces...

Fernando
'72 442

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 10:32:51 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

At 10:12 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Has anyone out there ever had to remove that cheap, glass tinting film
>adhesive from your glass? I've tried every type of adhesive remover I
>can find, but no luck. Today I tried 3M Adhesive Remover from a local
>paint supply house. This is used for removing weatherstripping and
>probably vinyl tops, but it won't touch this glue on the windows.
>I would appreciate any advise.
>
>Thanks,
>Jay Britt

Hi Jay,
I found Bestine Solvent Thinner to work well for this type of adhesive. It
is designed to be used to thin rubber cement, so you will find it at art
supply stores. The easiest way to use this solvent (read least elbow grease)
is to cover the area in question with a paper towel and then keep the towel
wet for 15-20 minutes (the solvent evaporates quickly). The adhesive should
turn to a gelatinous goo and be easily wiped off. In more stubborn cases
this technique will soften the adhesive to the point it can be scraped off
with a razor blade. I have used this solvent on lacquer, enamel and zolatone
without affecting the paint. Keep in mind this stuff is highly toxic. Gloves
and good ventilation are in order.

Good Luck,
Ray
70 Cutlass Conv.
70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Jeff Dick <JEFFREY.A.DICK@cpmx.saic.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 11:35:00 -0300
Subject: Jpgs

Dear Robert and Susan Colombo,

I appreciate your good intentions, but I just printed out 100 pages of
garbled file from the jpgs you posted monday, They do not transfer to people
like myself who get the digest version of the mailing list.    :)

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 11:28:38 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

Ray Moriarty wrote:
>
> At 10:12 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Has anyone out there ever had to remove that cheap, glass tinting film
> >adhesive from your glass? I've tried every type of adhesive remover I
> >can find, but no luck. Today I tried 3M Adhesive Remover from a local
> >paint supply house. This is used for removing weatherstripping and
> >probably vinyl tops, but it won't touch this glue on the windows.
> >I would appreciate any advise.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jay Britt
>
> Hi Jay,
> I found Bestine Solvent Thinner to work well for this type of adhesive. It
> is designed to be used to thin rubber cement, so you will find it at art
> supply stores. The easiest way to use this solvent (read least elbow grease)
> is to cover the area in question with a paper towel and then keep the towel
> wet for 15-20 minutes (the solvent evaporates quickly). The adhesive should
> turn to a gelatinous goo and be easily wiped off. In more stubborn cases
> this technique will soften the adhesive to the point it can be scraped off
> with a razor blade. I have used this solvent on lacquer, enamel and zolatone
> without affecting the paint. Keep in mind this stuff is highly toxic. Gloves
> and good ventilation are in order.
>
> Good Luck,
> Ray
> 70 Cutlass Conv.
> 70 442 Conv.
- --------------------------------------

Try a product called "GOOF OFF", it's available at all the Home Depot
stores. So far it's taken off every form of glue and adhesive that I've
come in contact with. Another good one is "Afta", it's a form of a dry
cleaning chemical/spot remover available at most hardware/auto stores.

good luck !

- --

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/30/97)

------------------------------

From: "Tracey Cleeton" <tcleeton@mcmsys.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 11:55:12 -0300
Subject: Re: any 70's out there

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC6503.E8D34B40
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey Doug, do I have the car for you or what....
1970 442 W-30 Convertible, W-27 rearend, Hurst His/Hers shifter, Ralley =
Red with black top, new pipes, mufflers, and tips, used by the Danbury =
Mint Co, for the production of a die cast scaled model, and has won =
several small time car shows. This is one in only 264 cars produced! =
(great investment).  I am the second owner, and it has 112,xxx miles.  =
The motor has been rebuilt also.  Taking serious offers only.
You can see it at: http://www.mcmsys.com/~tcleeton/
Let me know what you think, and if you have any ?'s about it.
Thanks,=20
T Cleeton  tcleeton@mcmsys.com
 ----
From: Douglas J Harkema <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Monday, May 19, 1997 10:00 PM
Subject: any 70's out there

    I am very interested in purchasing a 1970 442 or S  I sold my =
project a few
years ago and miss it greatly.  I would like a car that I could drive, =
and
looks good.  doesn't have to be perfect.  I would like to purchase it in =
the
next month or so.  Want to drive a 70 here in olds country this summer.

ANY LEADS??????

Thanks
Doug




- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC6503.E8D34B40
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<P>Hey Doug, do I have the car for you or what....</P>

<P>1970 442 W-30 Convertible, W-27 rearend, Hurst His/Hers shifter, =
Ralley Red=20
with black top, new pipes, mufflers, and tips, used by the Danbury Mint =
Co, for=20
the production of a die cast scaled model, and has won several small =
time car=20
shows. This is one in only 264 cars produced! (great investment).  I am =
the=20
second owner, and it has 112,xxx miles.  The motor has been rebuilt =
also. =20
Taking serious offers only.

<P>You can see it at: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mcmsys.com/~tcleeton/">http://www.mcmsys.com/~tcleeton=
/</A>

<P>Let me know what you think, and if you have any ?'s about it.

<P>Thanks,=20

<P>T Cleeton  tcleeton@mcmsys.com</P>
 ----<BR>
<B>From: </B>Douglas J Harkema &lt;harkema2@pilot.msu.edu&gt;<BR>
<B>To: </B>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR>
<B>Date: </B>Monday, May 19, 1997 10:00 PM<BR>
<B>Subject: </B>any 70's out there<BR>
<BR>
<HTML><BODY><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I am very interested in =
purchasing a=20
1970 442 or S&nbsp; I sold my project a few<BR>
years ago and miss it greatly.&nbsp; I would like a car that I could =
drive,=20
and<BR>
looks good.&nbsp; doesn't have to be perfect.&nbsp; I would like to =
purchase it=20
in the<BR>
next month or so.&nbsp; Want to drive a 70 here in olds country this =
summer.<BR>
<BR>
ANY LEADS??????<BR>
<BR>
Thanks<BR>
Doug<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></FONT>
</BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC6503.E8D34B40--

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:02:12 -0300
Subject: Lots of Olds cars for sale

I found a good web site to search for cars. It is on the "eauto" site. =
The URL is http://www.eAuto.com/  or go to: =
http://207.240.30.86/cgi-cls/Display.exe?eAuto+Auto+Car+Search and enter =
your search information.

I put in Oldsmobile from 1970 to 1971 and it listed 55 cars for sale. =
They listed cars from 1940 and newer.(?????)

Here is an exemple of one ad:

1970, Oldsmobile=A0442, 30K miles, $39,900/OBO
Options
                          White exterior, Black interior
                          Convertible
                          Classic Car
                          Two Door
                          Manual Transmission

Description
1970 Oldsmobile 442 Y-74 Indy Pace Car Convertible ª51 of the 64 at
the track and of the 268 built. Three year body-off restoration recently
completed. Numbers match; over $40,000.00 invested, asking 39,900
will consider trades. 330-369-2603 9:00 a.m to 6:00 P.M. 330-856-3234 =
after 6:00 and on weekends. I am putting this ad in for my father and I =
forgot to ask him how many miles.

            Seller Info
                          For sale by private party

                          (330) 369-2603 [Day]

                          (330) 856-3234 [Eve]

                          brat1121@aol.com

                          Warren, Ohio 44484

            Post Date
                          03-APR-97

Lots of other information on this site also.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the .....Past



------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:42:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Digest Number 682

At 06:27 AM 5/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Nice pictures. =O(

I had been considering going on digest, and now that I see I have missed a
couple lovely pictures, that clinches it, I'm signing up! ;)

>Esko & Anneli Ilola
>
>Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Looking at your address quickly, Esko, I could have sworn that it said
"Flintstone Island" (then your '64 could be foot-powered, and you wouldn't
need to worry about rebuilding your 394!)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:21:00 -0300
Subject: Subject: Re: Need clutch fan test

At 06:54 PM 5/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>.
>     My 350 which has run forever, all day and all night at 205'F, changed
>today. On the highway the car was running 210'F and on the local roads with
>lights it jumped to 220'F. This does not seem extreme but I want to check
>it all out before my engine does a Three Mile Island. Is there a simply
>test to see if the fan is working properly? It has 150,000 miles on it. One
>year on a new radiator. This change happen so quick I think something
>broke. Coolant level is good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

If your temp gauge goes up when the headlights are turned on (usually
accompanied by a drop in oil press. gauge) you have a grounding problem
with your instruments.

If it suddenly started running hot, my first guess is the thermostat.
Take it out of the car and check it in a pot of water on the stove with
a thermometer to see whart temp it opens at.  I've had good luck with
Gates thermostats.

If you have a thermostatic fan clutch (identified by a little bimetallic
coil on the front of the clutch), start the engine cold with a piece of
cardboard in front of the radiator (i.e. on the side opposite of the
fan!!) to block air flow.  As the engine heats up, the fan clutch should
engage with a roar.  When I rev my 455 with the fan clutch engaged it is
like a tornado under the hood.  Keep an eye on the temp gauge and remove
the cardboard if the engine starts to overheat.  After the cardboard is
off, turn on the heater full blast and let the engine idle to cool off.

If you have an RPM-limiting clutch (i.e. disengages above 3000 rpm or
so, no bimetallic coil on the front), the freewheeling method Dr. Bob
describes would be the way to check it.

Scott Mullen
'70 442

------------------------------

From: "Mark Tonazzi" <Mark.Tonazzi.0193171@nt.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 11:37:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Dyno testing, etc.

        Reply to:   RE>>Dyno testing, etc.

Paul, thanks for the reply, actually the dyno test is for my 86 Monte =
Carlo SS, I just put in a rebuilt 350..........Now before the =
Chevy-Buick-Pontiac, etc BASHING begins, let me explain.  I have an 85 =
442 and I used to own a 64 F-85, my father owns a 78 Delta 88  (Holiday), =
and he used to own a 71 Vista Cruiser, my grandfahter has a 62 F-85 and =
my other (late) grandfather owned an Olds dealership, we are all =
dedicated Olds lovers!!!!!  So please don't bash, I just happen to own a =
few G-body's and I'm not prejudice to anything......well, almost =
anything. (F*%d)

Now, with that said, a few questions, my father is curious as to how rare =
is his 78 Holiday?  It's white with white vinyl top, white seats, and =
Carmine interior.

For me, my 85 442 has one chrome wheel that has began to rust badly, =
anyone have one for sale?  If I re-chrome, I'll have to repaint too, =
where would I find the paint?  Dealership only? Any other suggestions? =
Also, my wife just broke off the lever for moving the six way seat =
forward and back, any suggestions on how to fix?

Thanks in advance,

MT
84 442
85 MCSS
86 MCSS
87 GN
88 Vette

>Anyone know where to get your engine dyno tested in the Chicago area???

BTW:  What are you having tested?

------------------------------

From: "Mullen, R. Scott" <r_mullen@merck.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:31:00 -0300
Subject: "OW" fan clutch / Clutch fans for sale

I have two HD cooling fans (7-blade w/thermo. clutch) for sale.  These
are from '69 455's.  Diameter is approx. 18".  I also have an "OW" (70
W30) code fan clutch.  Just perfect for the car show crowd.  No
guarantee on the clutches, since I haven't run them on my car.  $25 each
and I'll pay the shipping.  Email me at r_mullen@merck.com
Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:42:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???

At 03:08 AM 5/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>The hydraulic roller-lifters used stock on the mid-'80's 307's were larger
>>in diameter than the standard Olds lifter, though they shared the same
>>lifter diameter as the early Toro 425's (.921"), so maybe they could be used
>>in the Toro-block 425's? The factory 307 roller-cam specs were very mild,
>>though Mondello offers "healthier" grinds for the hydraulic-lifter engines.
>
>So ~theoretically~ speaking, I could take my '67 Toro's 425, and stick in
>the mid 80's roller lifters, take an aftermarket stick with a fairly wild
>grind, (maybe go with Comp Cams' or equivalent's roller rockers), and have a
>highly efficient valvetrain?  AND, if I decide I want more cubes, I can take
>the same block, and swap in the 455's crank, rods, and pistons, and have me
>one big munster???  Sounds ~entirely~ too tempting!!!
>
>Any possibility of the 80's roller lifter accepting the same lube channels
>that they had in '67?

I know the diameter is the same, but I don't know if anything else is. Is
anyone here familiar with the mounting provisions for the factory
roller-cams? I'd imagine the oil-feed would be compatible. That's an
interesting idea, and would be useful for me with my '66 Toro block (for
which I'm still looking for a set of main caps- Bryceman, yours still
available?).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:42:14 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

At 09:32 AM 5/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I found Bestine Solvent Thinner to work well for this type of adhesive. It
>is designed to be used to thin rubber cement, so you will find it at art
>supply stores. The easiest way to use this solvent (read least elbow grease)
>is to cover the area in question with a paper towel and then keep the towel
>wet for 15-20 minutes (the solvent evaporates quickly). The adhesive should

I've used that paper-towl trick, with great success. For less "persistent"
adhesives, I've simply wet a paper towel with vinegar, laid it over the
adhesive (left by, say, a window sticker), let it sit for twenty minutes,
and wiped it away with the same paper towel.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 13:02:34 -0300
Subject: Re: 307's Roller Cam in a 455???

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> So ~theoretically~ speaking, I could take my '67 Toro's 425, and stick in
> the mid 80's roller lifters, take an aftermarket stick with a fairly wild
> grind, (maybe go with Comp Cams' or equivalent's roller rockers), and have a
> highly efficient valvetrain?  AND, if I decide I want more cubes, I can take
> the same block, and swap in the 455's crank, rods, and pistons, and have me
> one big munster???  Sounds ~entirely~ too tempting!!!
>
> Any possibility of the 80's roller lifter accepting the same lube channels
> that they had in '67?
>

A while ago when I leaned the .921 lifter diameter, that same though
also crossed my mind.  I'd be neat to see done!  Don't the 425's that
use that larger lifter also have the different cam bank angle?  You'd
have a hard time finding a roller cam for that engine!

FYI, the roller lifters and cams were in all '86-up 307's, and most
'85's.  As an easy ID, look at the heads.  5A heads no roller lifter, 7A
heads have the roller lifter.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 13:46:57 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

>
 The easiest way to use this solvent (read least elbow grease)
> >is to cover the area in question with a paper towel and then keep the towel
> >wet for 15-20 minutes (the solvent evaporates quickly). The adhesive should
>
> I've used that paper-towl trick, with great success. For less "persistent"
> adhesives, I've simply wet a paper towel with vinegar, laid it over the
> adhesive (left by, say, a window sticker), let it sit for twenty minutes,
> and wiped it away with the same paper towel.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Similarly, I've used a bleach in water solution to take labels off beer
bottles (For use in home brewing).  The glue (and paper) comes right off the
glass within 10 mins or so.  So before you go out & buy stuff, you should try
either Doc Bob's or my
dissolve-the-glue-so-easily-I-can-be-lazy-and-not-have-to-work-at-scraping
trick. :)

And the Goo Gone that someone else suggested works great in gen'l, for smaller
areas anyway.  It removed old glue from silly gee-gaws attached to dash pads
of some of my cars -- by previous owners, natch -- w/o hurting the vinyl.
*That* stuff, however, does require a bit of the Grease-o'-the-Elbow. ;)




Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 14:13:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Re Yellow interior

yes, it's called saffron, and it matched a 67 exterior color as well.

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 14:15:32 -0300
Subject: RE: any 70's out there

Hi Tracey

Do you have a update on the Danbury Mint story. They were going to send =
you some drawings, I think. When are they going to produce the model? Any =
new information yet?

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Tue, May 20, 1997 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: any 70's out there
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
File(s): text

Hey Doug, do I have the car for you or what....
1970 442 W-30 Convertible, W-27 rearend, Hurst His/Hers shifter, Ralley =
Red with black top, new pipes, mufflers, and tips, used by the Danbury =
Mint Co, for the production of a die cast scaled model, and has won =
several small time car shows. This is one in only 264 cars produced! (grea=
t investment).  I am the second owner, and it has 112,xxx miles.  The =
motor has been rebuilt also.  Taking serious offers only.
You can see it at: http://www.mcmsys.com/~tcleeton/
Let me know what you think, and if you have any ?'s about it.
Thanks,
T Cleeton  tcleeton@mcmsys.com
 ----
From: Douglas J Harkema <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Monday, May 19, 1997 10:00 PM
Subject: any 70's out there

    I am very interested in purchasing a 1970 442 or S  I sold my project =
a few
years ago and miss it greatly.  I would like a car that I could drive, =
and
looks good.  doesn't have to be perfect.  I would like to purchase it in =
the
next month or so.  Want to drive a 70 here in olds country this summer.

ANY LEADS??????

Thanks
Doug






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------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 14:35:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
>padavano.joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>>
>>   I spied the Andy Green Memorial WINDOW TINT INSTALLATION KIT!!!!!
>>   I swear I am not making this up.
>>
>>   The kit contains:
>>
>>   One Spray Bottle
>>   One Squeegee
>>   One Razor Blade
>>
>>   Price:  Only $3.99
>
>HA!  So there!
>
>>   Presumably the razor blade is included to allow you to slit your
>>   wrists after becoming distraught over the air bubbles in your window
>>   tint/defogger.  ;)
>
>Andy?

[Andy sits at his desk, oblivious, idly picking his nose and staring off
into space as he waits for the stop sign over his desk to turn green...]

>ANDY?!?

Wha--- Huh?

[Startled, he leaps up and spills coffee all over his printout of
Useful Posts from Mike Frederick (1995-Present), staining both sides
of the page, but fortunately only a lame attempt at ASCII artwork is
obliterated.]

I don't know what the big deal is; a while back I made a few bucks off
some guy by installing it for him. It was a breeze; I decided that the
instructions were goofy, so I went ahead and stuck it on the outside
instead. It was much easier that way. I don't think he noticed.

>   **
>    *6 Tor*
>Th* /*** /\ a*d Mike

Needless to say, I'll have to rush right out and buy one of these
fine kits. They don't give me a discount, but I make it up in the
royalties later. You can find it right next to the Mike Frederick
Memorial Jackstands: "Giving New Meaning to the term 'Toro Supporter'".


Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: WALKERJIM@webtv.net (Jim Walker)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 14:42:12 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª683

To Jay Britt...
Ammonia will remove the adhesive, after you have scraped off the tint
film with a razor blade.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 15:04:34 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442, '70 convertible

Hi Dave,
At 10:54 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hey folks,
>
>I saw today a '68 442 sitting in a parking lot in an industrial area of
>town.  My buddy says it's been sitting there for a couple months.  From
>the road, it looked like it had a good bit of cancer, and it had no
>bumpers.  The paint looked like it was the original green color, and
>since it was so oxidized and faded, I'm thinking it was the original
>paint.  Is this car worth pursuing?  There's no for sale sign in/on it,
>but if it's a rare car (read: if the quantity built was low), I may
>consider trying to purchase it.  How many '68 442's were made?


According to various source, there were 5142 '68 convertible 442s made.  I
don't know about bench vs. bucket seats, 4-speed vs. auto, but I'd be
interested to hear :)

Using the Lavey method of determining rarity: if I've got one, they aren't
rare.  I have one with a bench seat and auto tranmission.


Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "C.K.G-B" <bluffin@netins.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:07:19 -0300
Subject: '77 442

Let me try one more time before I unsubscribe to the mailing list again.

I am looking for any or all body parts for a '77 442, have had no luck
in over a year to find anything in Iowa or the surrounding area, if you
can help please let me know.... I will be unsubcribing to the list at
the end of the day.

Thank you very much

Chris Blumenstein

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 15:28:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Dyno testing, etc.

>        Reply to:   RE>>Dyno testing, etc.
>

Hi All,

        I can't resist throwing in my $0.02 into this Dyno debate.  I
recently purchased Desktop Dyno by Mr. Gasket.  It is the coolest thing.
You feed all of your engine specs into the program and it will give you
horsepower and torque curves.  It is not super accurate, for instance it
does not have a parameter for ignition components, but it is good enough for
me.

        For instance you can compare the curves of different cams,
compression ratios, exhaust etc.  It will tell you if it is worth while to
make certain changes, or if your money will be better spent elsewhere.

        Will there be change forthcomming on my $0.02??


Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 15:25:23 -0300
Subject: '50 Parts wanted

I need right rear fender spear with "futuramic" for '50 club coupe.

Also rear fender gravel shields for same (stainless or rubber)

Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 15:34:42 -0300
Subject: Ooops! (Re: Sticky Problem)

> From WALKERJIM@webtv.net Tue May 20 14:25:24 1997

> To Jay Britt...
> Ammonia will remove the adhesive, after you have scraped off the tint
> film with a razor blade.

Err, umm.... when I mentioned a 'bleach/water' solution in my suggestion
a few e-mails back, that was my quixotic mind translating my memory for me...
I actually used ammonia & water to remove adheesives from glass, as in labels
off of beer bottles :)

And never, *ever* mix bleach & ammonia. :)



Tim (Had His 'Mr. Wizard' Chem. Set Taken Away the Day After the Xmas He Got
It) Churchill - ------------- '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible,
a.k.a. 'Big Red' '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen' '91 Mazda
Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 15:42:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Wiz?

At 01:05 PM 5/19/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can you tell me more about this Photo-Flo in place of water wetter? Theory,
>effectiveness, chemical components of each? No disbelief inteneded at all
>just curious...
>TIA
>cf
>
>
>>I totally agree with the wetter water aspects.  I personally use a cap (of
>>the bottle) full of Kodak Photo-Flo for that, and it works very well, at low
>>cost.
>
>
A couple of years ago, and after a rash of very hot days, and steam blasting
thru the radiator overflow bottle, I decided some sort of relief was needed.
As luck would have it I was at the curb adjacent to Jefferson Camera, so I
went in to beg some water.  I was talking to one of their tech guys, who
helped with some water.  He also suggested the Photo-Flo as a wetting agent.
I bought a small bottle, added a cap full or two to the radiator, and the
problem seemed to be solved.  At least it hasn't happened since.  Whenever I
change out to the coolant, I have added some Photo-Flo too.  Even if the
problem was elviated by coincidence, (always a possiblity with imperical
studies) it is of very low cost, and seems to help a great deal; at least
the problem went away, and has not resurfaced in the several intervening
years.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Nick314@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 16:20:44 -0300
Subject: Re: any 70's out there

Where are you from?  We are in the process of finishing a 1970 Oldsmobile
Cultass Supreme.

------------------------------

From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@spoiler.interaccess.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:31:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> Hey all...yep, I've got some more questions  ;-)
>
> Also, what is the difference between "MAX" and "NORM" on the air
> comditioner?  I know that on NORM, the compressor cycles on and off...I
> can't tell if it cycles on and off on the MAX setting.  Will this cause
> premature compressor failure if I drive to work (~14 miles) with the
> compressor on MAX?  Also, a related question...what if, hypothetically
> speaking ;-), I _DID_ drive to work with the thing on MAX (those t-tops
> ~really~ let in the heat..I should change my license plates to
> 'GRENHOS').  Does this mean that my AC is in needing of a charge?
>
Jason,
  one more thing happens when in MAX mode.  The system supplies vacuum
to the heater water valve cutting off coolant flow through the heater
core. (Found this out during my investigations of the HVAC controll
system when I broke my vacuum line...it's amazing what you can learn
after screwing something up....)

- --
- ---Matt
'86 442
- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
remove the "spoiler" for replies |
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:48:04 -0300
Subject: Re: My '70 Olds 4-Door

Right on!!  Sounds great already,  I'll want all the details about
your buildup of course! :)  I found that there were only 871 '70 Olds
Cutlass Supreme 4-Doors made in Canada, anyone out there have numbers
for how many were made in the states?  Pistons will most likely be
easier to find if you are rebuilding that 400 CID, but the 0.030
issue like you said might be difficult.  Hey, everything in my Olds
was a challenge.  I had way too many horror stories when I dropped
the '66 425 in my Cutlass.  Anyways, its workin' great now! :)

Mat Nadrofsky

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:44:04 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 425

Yeah, after many months of scrounging, I found a set in B.C. and had
them mailed to where I live.  I think you might be able to have them
custom fabricated though.  What car are you putting them in?

Mat Nadrofsky
'70 Olds Cutlass 425

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:59:49 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

I like those numbers! My 425 is pushing that almost exactly! I might
be shy of 12 horse or so, though.  I am running it in my '70 Cutlass
4-Door and have not gone to the track with it yet.  Did you get any
wheel hop? Did you use slicks for that run? What type of mods do you
have on that engine?

Thanks fer your time.
Mat Nadrofsky
'70 Olds 425 Cutlass S

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:04:47 -0300
Subject: 65 CUTLASS/ F-85

Sorry to do this but, please do not type in all capitals.. Its
annoying.

Mat Nadrofsky
'70 Olds 425 Cutlass S

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:23:41 -0300
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '77 442

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:Tue, 20 May 1997 17:07:19 -0300
From:"C.K.G-B" <bluffin@netins.net>
Reply-To: bluffin@netins.net
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: '77 442

Let me try one more time before I uns*bscribe to the mailing list again.

I am looking for any or all body parts for a '77 442, have had no luck
in over a year to find anything in Iowa or the surrounding area, if you
can help please let me know.... I will be unsubcribing to the list at
the end of the day.

Thank you very much

Chris Blumenstein

------------------------------

From: MECHWARRIOR2MASTER@prodigy.com ( MAT M NADROFSKY)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:03:35 -0300
Subject: Re: HOT ROD article

The car I got it out of looked like a '66 Delta 88.  Now, It could
well have been a Toro as I had some guy go up and get it for me. (A
mistake for sure).  Anyways, It must have the 39' banks cause the Cam
works great.

Mat Nadrofsky
'70 Olds 425 Cutlass S

____
Mat Nadrofsky
70 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Robert and Susan Colombo <rcolombo@sonic.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 17:39:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Apology (was Re: 71' 442)

MROTHE wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: 71' 442
> >
> > I apologize greatly to everyone out there. I must have missed that
> > part.I would never have sent the pictures if I had any idea it would
> > ruin anything. I am VERY SORRY and hope I can continue getting info from
> > everyone out there.
> >     Robert 71' 442   P.S. I really had no idea.
>
> Robert,
>
> Forget about it.  EVERYONE makes mistakes, and you can continue to get
> information from here.  Unless of course, it's for a Ch... or Fo.., I
> can't say those words, for if I did, others would kill me, but you get
> the idea.  If it's Olds related, you are in the right spot.
>
> Mike Rothe
I appreciate the understanding.

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 21:03:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Defoggers (was: Overheating)

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> [Andy sits at his desk, oblivious, idly picking his nose and staring
> off into space as he waits for the stop sign over his desk to turn
> green...]

Well, now we know why Andy switched to digest mode.  He has so much to do
during the day.

> [Startled, he leaps up and spills coffee all over his printout of
> Useful Posts from Mike Frederick (1995-Present),

You must have confused my posts with someone else's.  I've been very
careful to make sure all my posts include just enough big words to make
it seem like I'm actually saying something when, in fact, I'm only saying
nothing in reply to Andy's last post about absolutely nothing.

> ...staining both sides of the page, but fortunately only a lame attempt
> at ASCII artwork is obliterated.]

Forwarding my full color Toronado ASCII art...

> ...I decided that the instructions were goofy, so I went ahead and
> stuck it on the outside instead. It was much easier that way. I don't
> think he noticed.

You might want to apply that same theory to the Pontiac.  Why bother
trying to pour oil INTO the motor -- just smear it on the outside.

> >   **
> >    *6 Tor*
> >Th* /*** /\ a*d Mike

Seems the rats in Chicago are gnawing on my sig.

> You can find it right next to the Mike Frederick Memorial Jackstands:
> "Giving New Meaning to the term 'Toro Supporter'".

Just below shelf with the Andy "I don't really HAVE an Olds" Green 1/24
scale Pontiac complete with realistic bubble tint windows.  (Rear window
defogger and autographed portrait of Andy with his spray bottle available
for a slight additional charge)

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:31:46 -0300
Subject: Re: any 70's out there

Holt Michigan
Where are you>
> Where are you from?  We are in the process of finishing a 1970 Oldsmobile
> Cultass Supreme.
>
>

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 18:17:27 -0300
Subject: Re: '50 Parts wanted

        Difficult to find.  I was looking for the same piece (sort of) for
     my '51 98.  No one would sell it without the fender.  Mine were
     literally dented almost flat.  Sent them out with a few other pieces
     to a place in WI (can't remember the name off hand) for repair.  They
     said they could actually fix it up to look really good.

        Well, $500 later they came back.  They repaired one "spear" and two
     side molding pieces (also dented and creased), plus polished these and
     the other three matching pieces (six in all).

        I could not believe the work they did.  These pieces looked
     absolutly new.  Try as I might, I couldn't find a flaw.  Well worth
     the cost if you want quality.

        You may want to consider this route if you still have the piece.
     If its missing, I've just wasted some bandwidth, I guess <g>.

     - Pete
     '51 98
     '52 Plymouth Concord
     '73 Imperial(ist)
     '82 98
     '84 C10 (soon to be Olds powered)
     '86 Ciera



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: '50 Parts wanted Author:
idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight) at imail Date:    5/20/97 3:25 PM


I need right rear fender spear with "futuramic" for '50 club coupe.

Also rear fender gravel shields for same (stainless or rubber)

Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho



------------------------------

From: "Steve C. Monty" <anything-auto@geocities.com>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 19:06:47 -0300
Subject: Re: A sticky problem

Luke Hogan wrote:
>
> ----------
> > Has anyone out there ever had to remove that cheap, glass tinting film
> > adhesive from your glass? I've tried every type of adhesive remover I
> > can find, but no luck. Today I tried 3M Adhesive Remover from a local
> > paint supply house. This is used for removing weatherstripping and
> > probably vinyl tops, but it won't touch this glue on the windows.
> > I would appreciate any advise.
> >

Jay,

Try sparying amonia on the tint and let it soak. Use a trash bag or some
other object to protect the dash or carpet from the amonia. Just keep
thinking why they have always told you not to use amonia to clean your
windows.


- --
Later! Steve

Come Visit Me At:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7112/ - The Only Automotive Page!!!
http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/1711/

------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 19:17:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Unbounce: Cam Walking

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Another h*lp message... please do not use the "H*LP" word in your subject
> line, folks, majordomo thinks you're trying to get to me...
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From:   "Luke Hogan"
<hogan442@c-gate.net> > Date:   Mon, 19 May 1997 09:38:01 -0300 > >
H*lp anybody,                                                            I
pulled the timing chain cover & seen where > the cam bolt had been walking
into the cover, so i proceed  to pull cam > &also noticed that the rear part
of the cam had walked backwards .  Is > there soposed to be  some kind of cam
bushing behind the cam gear?  Iknow > Mondello  sells a cam button for the
bolt.  Oh     &  where can i  get a > new bolt?  You know it is kind-of  wore
down.  Thanks a lot for the help. > Luke


When I had my  '71 455 (.060"= 468) rebuilt, the builder said not to use
a cam button.  he said that when using hydrolic lifters, it is not
necessary because "it pulls the cam into the correct place, eliminating
the use of a cam button."  He also said that using a cam button can
prematurely wear out the cam and cause severe damage, some of which I
have heard of on this server.
The company that I had rebuild my motor is VERY reputable and has
rebuilt several Olds 455.  They had to be good to get the 6500 redline I
wanted.

Happy Oldsmobiling!
Brad
'70 442

------------------------------

From: BigEJ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 19:35:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Motor Oil, AC Compressor

you write:
>The compressor should cycle on both settings.  But even if it doesn't, that
shouldn't
>hurt anything.  The compressor on my '67 runs constantly unless the system
is >turned off.

The reason that A C compressors cycle is that most systems now use an
expansion valve type/cycling compressor design.  The evaporator must be kept
from freezing (its tough to blow air through a block of ice), so when the
temp of the evaporator drops below 30 degrees or so the compressor is shut
off to allow the temp to rise and allow any ice to melt and run out the
drain.  The amount of time the compressor stays on is  directly related to
the load on the system (air flow, heat, humidity and the amount of
refrigerant in the system).  It is possible for the system to work constantly
under exterme conditions, and because of the design of the system it won't
work if the outside temp is low enough to keep the evaporator cold or if the
system is too low on refrigerant.

The older systems (Frigidaire, I don't know about the others) used a "suction
throttling valve" system that allowed the compressor to run constantly when
AC was on.  The suction throttling valve in addition to the expansion valve
maintained a constant 32-33 degree temp and was much more effective than the
newer system.  It also didn't allow the multiple shock loads ( think about
4-5 horsepower load being slammed on and off while the engine is running at
2500 rpm).  It's undoing was the fuel shortage of the early 70's,because in
theory the engine is using less HP (fuel) while the compressor is cycled off.
 Its also lots cheaper to build a system with out a suction throttling valve
and the other controls necessary, but that couldn't have had anything to do
with the decision to go to the newer systems,     could it ?? ;-)

Hope this helps.

Elephant Engine Ernie

67-442
50- 88

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª684
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