To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #610


oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 14 April 1997       Volume 01 : Number 610

Re: Steering Wheel
Re: 1990 Vintage
Re: 455 Engine question
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: Origional Invoice
Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh
Re: 70 olds ª's
Hershey in the Spring
Power Seats
1970 Rallye 350 & W-31 Questions
Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
1957 Oldsmobile
'53 Clock Knob Wanted
'53 upholstery
Re: Power Seats
Owners manuals
Re: 69 quarter
Re-chroming prices and locations?
Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
Re: Owners manuals
Re: Owners manuals
Re: '53 Clock Knob Wanted
Re: 455 Engine question
Re: 1970 Rallye 350 & W-31 Questions
Re: Power Seats
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner
Re: How to remove window handle regulator?
Radio / Virtual Junkyard
Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
RE: 455 Engine question
Re: New Member
Re[4]: 1967 442
Re: hood clips & pad
64 parts
RE: Why Engine Flush?
Re: Steering Wheel
Carburetor Fires
'66 Dynamic 88 Power Seats & Production ª's
Re: 1970 Rallye 350 & W-31 Questions
Re: Carburetor Fires
Re: Oil filler tube cap
ADMIN: Posting Reminder
1978 - 80 Cutlass Sport Mirror For Sale (4/14)
Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED -Reply -Reply
New Set Of Olds Archives Available
Re: '66 Dynamic 88 Power Seats & Production ª's
Re: Oil filler tube cap
Need 70- 442 parts
New Member
Olds Project Cars

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 21:34:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

Dan Bennett wrote:
>
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> >
> > On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, Dan Bennett wrote:
> >    The guy I bought it from has another, in a Tan color for
> > > the same price at least he did a couple of weeks ago.  I can get a phone
> > > number if anyones intrested.
> >
> > The '69 sport wheel is sort of unique. It looks something like the
> > "deluxe" wheel from '68 or '69 with 3 spokes but has a fake wood rim. It
> > is a 1-year only piece I believe. The '68 sport wheel has 3 brushed
> > stainless spokes, while the '69 has a different spoke style and the hub is
> > larger thanks to the '69 steering column being bigger to handle the
> > ignition lock. Then in '70 they went with the 4-spoke style. Lots of
> > choices, kind of confusing.  If those are actual '69 sport wheels being
> > offered for $50 and not deluxe wheels, it's a good deal.
> >
> >
> > Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada > > Well, I'm not an expert but it is a three spoke wheel of brushed >
stainless steel.  The wheel is tan in color and is made of a rubber >
substance.  The wheel was is good shape, I just chose the Blue wheel > because
of my interior color.  I had never seen a three spoke before and > only had
seen a four spoke in pictures.  I put in on last week and fits > and looks
great, especially after the faded, cracked wheel is replaced. >  The name and
Phone ª of this guy is "Joe Esposito" and he can be > reached at
602-404-1805(Phoenix,Arizona).  He was selling many hard to > find Olds parts
at a good price at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago, > with a friend.  They
both were 442 owners.  Good Luck all. > > Dan Bennett > '72 Cutlass Supreme


Will a 70-72 sport steering wheel fit a 69 442?  If 69 was a one year
only wheel then I would imagine that there pretty rare.  Anybody have one
in a tan?

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 19:55:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 1990 Vintage

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997 TJBOYTOY@AOL.COM wrote:

> I have a 1990 Olds Cutlas Convertible and I would like to find ou how many
> convertibles were made in 1990. I was told a under 500 were made but I
cannot > confirm.If anyone can help me I would appreciate it.  Thankyou very
much! > >


Cutlass Supreme convertible production in '90 was 464.  This one's a
keeper.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 19:57:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 Engine question

   I had a car that started doing the same thing to me -- take the valve
covers off and watch the valve action while turning the engine over.  The
problem on my engine was that an exhaust lobe on the camshaft had worn flat
and wouldn't let any exhaust gasses out -- so when the intake valve would
open guess where all the exhaust gasses went???  --- right back into the
intake manifold.

   Hope that helps some
                                    J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 20:54:35 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Jim Hoekendijk wrote:

> I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the doorpanels
> but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the window
> handle regulator.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Jim Hoekendijk, '64 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser
>

the best way is to purchase a "special" tool for this they are only a few
$ and are available at most parts stores  another good one to get
removes the plastic plugs that hold the rest of the panel on

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 19:18:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Origional Invoice

MR BOB M MASELLA wrote:
>
> Is there a way to find a copy of the origional invoive for my car.  I
> know that Pontiac supplies interested parties with copies of their
> records on a particular car, I was wondering if anyone knows if
> Oldsmobile provides the same tyoe of service?  Thank you

>From what I understand, it is not p*ntiac that provides that info. It is
an individual who bought all those copies from p*ntiac and supplies them
for a small fee. And no, Oldsmobile does not have these records for
request. Sorry.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 14:48:38 -0300
Subject: Re: MSDs, Current, and Voltage  Was: no subject wh

Mike Frederick wrote:
>
> Just to summarize my comments:
>

> Now before we get into ELI the ICEman or coulombs per fortnight,
> I'm outta here...
>
>     66 Toro
> The /\   /\ and Mike
Mike,

That's just like you to start a fight & then leave.  Thanks to you,
Esko, & Wiz for some enlightenment (semi-darkness?).

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 20:56:26 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 olds ª's

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, James & Joanne Chermack wrote:

At 07:32 PM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:

42= Cutlass Supreme
57= Hardtop coupe (This code does exist) 87 is Cutlass S holiday coupe

Wow, my first day back on the list and I blew it.  When I decoded that
plate I was looking at my Colors and Interiors Album.  They list the
Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe as 4287.  But when I read the above, I got
out the Product Selling Features Album.  They do show the Holiday Coupe as
4257.  I can't believe Olds made an error like that in their showroom
sales tools.  Can I file some kind of a lawsuit?

Now that I've thought about this for a while, you know how the '68 and '69
Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupes were the 89 fastback body style?  I'll bet
the original '70 design was to be that too, but was changed to the 57
notchback design.  When you think of it, Olds was the only division to use
the 57 body style on an A body.  Actually they were the only division to
use the 87 body too.  Chevrolet, Buick and Pontiac all used 37 notchback
bodies for their hardtop coupes.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 21:08:59 -0300
Subject: Hershey in the Spring

Hershey in the Spring car show was this weekend.  Don't know if any of you
bothered to go.  If you didn't, you didn't miss anything.  Saturday was
rain, nothing muct was open.

Car corral was the pits.  There was one car of interest, a '77 442.  It
was Mandarin Orange and White, interior was White and Mandarin Orange.  It
had 32K original miles, was a Florida car.  Price was $8750.  Seemed like
too much to me, even with the low miles.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 21:16:59 -0300
Subject: Power Seats

I have a 69 442 convertible which I have restored but would like to
install power seats at least on the drivers side (where they an option
on both sides).  Maybe someone can help?  What do I need to buy?  I
assume the seat track and controls.  Where does the control switch
attach?  How about the power lead?  Anything else I should know?  I'd
like to know if one of you Olds folks has the required parts for
sale....how much?  Thanks.

Wayne schwartz
wschwart@IAW.ON.CA

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 21:32:03 -0300
Subject: 1970 Rallye 350 & W-31 Questions

A friend of mine was wondering if anyone here knew the answers to these
questions:

1. In 1970, how many Rallye 350s were produced with automatic transmissions?

2. Also in '70, how many W-31 4-speeds were made?

Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 21:30:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Lloyd Culp wrote:
> The dash is made for up to 3 switches above the radio.  Choose the
> center one - it may be marked on the back.  The wiring is in 2 parts w/a
> resister wire as part of the wiring.  One wire does both speeds.  The
> other lead is the hot wire from a the fuse block to the switch.

Well, Bill, not that I'm doubting you, but... I'm doubting you. :) The
only reason I say that is the few little illustrations of this switch
I've found all seem to show it more towards the right side of the car. I
was hoping to be able to install it without pulling the radio which is
why I was looking for the measurements. Unless I turn into Plastic Man
overnight there's no way I can get to the area above the radio from under
the dash, so I can't tell if there are any marks there or not.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "jallen" <jallen@wave-net.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 23:00:06 -0300
Subject: 1957 Oldsmobile

I am a collector / restorer of 1957 Oldsmobiles. I have a super 88
oldsmobile convertible, which I am looking for uphostlery and door panels.
Does anyone know where I can order the seat cover kits, or have other
suggestions?  Also I have several 1957 Olds parts cars which could be of
use to someone.  I would also be interested in hearing from someone who
also collects this rare model year.

Joseph P. Allen

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 21:58:28 -0300
Subject: '53 Clock Knob Wanted

I am having a heck of a time finding a knob for my clock in my '53
Oldsmobile Super 88.  It didn't have it when I bought the car, but I've
tried local jewelry/clock stores.  Of course I don't live in a big town, so
I'm hoping someone can help me out.

                                                        Desperate,

Youngin'
                                                                        '53
Super 88

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:02:49 -0300
Subject: '53 upholstery

Can anyone help me find a supplier or help me track down some original
upholstery?  Or is there an alternative?  The original upholstery in my '53
Oldsmobile Super 88 just got too old and the threads just gave way to a rip
in the passenger side. Any
info would be great.

                                                                Desperate,

Youngin'
                                                                        '53
Super 88

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:03:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Seats

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Wayne Schwartz wrote:

> I have a 69 442 convertible which I have restored but would like to
> install power seats at least on the drivers side (where they an option
> on both sides).  Maybe someone can help?  What do I need to buy?  I
> assume the seat track and controls.  Where does the control switch
> attach?  How about the power lead?  Anything else I should know?  I'd
> like to know if one of you Olds folks has the required parts for
> sale....how much?  Thanks.
>
> Wayne schwartz
> wschwart@IAW.ON.CA

A 4-way power driver's seat was available in '69.  It goes front and back,
and the back of the seat goes up and down.  The front of the seat does not
move in my understanding.  A power passenger seat was not an option in
'69, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to figure how to convert to one.
You will need a different seat track, switch and wiring harness.  To
install the seat track to the seat, you simply remove the bolts holding
your current track in place and install the new one.  The switch goes in
the metal cover on the left side of the seat, you'll probably need one of
these covers, too, as they are probably pre-cut for the switch.  The
switch should go in from the back and is secured by a screw on each end
from the front, through a chrome escutcheon.  Mounting the track to the
floor may get tricky. From what I understand, the manual seat tracks sit
on a stud in the floor and are secured by a nut.  The power tracks are
secured to the floor by a bolt going into the floor - there is no stud
involved.  I've yet to do this to my '72 (it's on my list) so I don't know
first hand what's needed to be done here.  A body manual would give
you more information here.  All that nut and bolt stuff may be
wrong, 'cause I just looked in my '72 body manual and it shows both
the manual and electic seat tracks being secured by studs and nuts.
But I thought somewhere I saw that there was a difference.  Wiring runs
under the carpeting and should just plug into the power feed outlet on the
fuse block, right next to the circuit breaker.  If you already have power
windows or locks, you'll need a piggyback to connect the power seat.  A
service manual or assembly manual should give you the proper wire routing.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:04:57 -0300
Subject: Owners manuals

I was wondering if anyone has or knows of actual owners manuals for older
cars, like my '53 Super 88.  I have a shop manual and was wondering if
there are just regular owners manuals similar to those used today.  Any
info?

                                                        Curious,
                                                                Youngin'
                                                                '53 Super 88

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:07:44 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 quarter

At 03:13 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>This message is to Jim Chermack
>
>Where have you been?  I'm still waiting on an answer about shipment for
>the 69 quarter panel.  Did you recieve payment for it yet?  I sent a
>check for $325 Monday the 7th.  Please respond.
>
>Thanks, Mike Rothe


Mike

        I sent you a Email the other day. Did you get it? I have not
received anything in the mail as of yet. I will have al the info on how and
where we will get this thing to tomorrow for you. Sorry if you missed my
message earlier.

Thanks,
Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: adamco@infowest.com (Monson)
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:08:45 -0300
Subject: Re-chroming prices and locations?

My '53 Olds Super 88 needs some new chrome on its exterior parts.  I'm a
student so I don't have a lot of money.  Is there a low cost or look-alike
alternative to high rechroming prices I've been quoted?  If anyone has any
information, I would be greatful.

                                                        Curious,
                                                                Youngin'
                                                                '53 Super 88

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:14:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Well, Bill, not that I'm doubting you, but... I'm doubting you. :) The
> only reason I say that is the few little illustrations of this switch
> I've found all seem to show it more towards the right side of the car. I
> was hoping to be able to install it without pulling the radio which is
> why I was looking for the measurements. Unless I turn into Plastic Man
> overnight there's no way I can get to the area above the radio from under
> the dash, so I can't tell if there are any marks there or not.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

Greg

So you're trying to take short cuts, huh?  I think that radio's gotta come
out in order to do this properly.  Something on that dash has gotta be
marked for the intended future installation of accessories such as yours.
I had switches like this in my '61 Ninety Eight.  One was for courtesy
lights, the other two on mine were blank.  One could be used for the power
antenna and the other was either for the convertible top or rear window
defogger depending on the body style.  These chrome covers were simply
removed by undoing two screws and you had a hole to install something
there.

I'm looking at the picture of the red 442 dash in my sales catalog for
'68.  I'll bet if you remove that black lower part of the dash there are
markings on top of where those switches go.  Start practicing your
contortionism exercises...

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:17:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Owners manuals

At 10:04 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I was wondering if anyone has or knows of actual owners manuals for older
>cars, like my '53 Super 88.  I have a shop manual and was wondering if
>there are just regular owners manuals similar to those used today.  Any
>info?

It's almost a certainty that owner's manuals were part of the car when you
bought one in 1953.  I have the owner's manual from my grandfather's '38
Chevy, so GM was providing these things well before the early '50s.  I'd
call one of the literature dealers advertising in Hemmings Motor News.
Another possible source is Al Sandy, a longtime literature dealer and
member of the National Antique Oldsmobile Club.  He advertises every month
in Journey with Olds and Runabouts to Rockets (the monthly magazine of the
NAOC).  I've never bought anything from him, but I know others who have,
and he's quite reputable.  If he doesn't have an owner's manual for a '53
Olds, he certainly ought to know where to get one.  His phone number is
(609) 858-0248, and call after 2 p.m. Eastern time (he's in New Jersey).

Good luck.



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:19:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Owners manuals

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Monson wrote:

>
> I was wondering if anyone has or knows of actual owners manuals for older
> cars, like my '53 Super 88.  I have a shop manual and was wondering if
> there are just regular owners manuals similar to those used today.  Any
> info?
>
>                                                         Curious,
>                                                                 Youngin'
>                                                                 '53 Super 88

Yep, they're around.  I still have the one from my '52 Ninety Eight.  Try:

Al Sandy
92 Geneva Ave
Westmont, NJ  08108
609-858-0248 after 1 P.M.

I'm sure he'll have one, but I can tell you he's gonna be expensive.  You
could probably find one at an old car meet also, like Carlisle or Hershey.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:22:19 -0300
Subject: Re: '53 Clock Knob Wanted

On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Monson wrote:

>
>
> I am having a heck of a time finding a knob for my clock in my '53
> Oldsmobile Super 88.  It didn't have it when I bought the car, but I've
> tried local jewelry/clock stores.  Of course I don't live in a big town, so
> I'm hoping someone can help me out.
>
>                                                         Desperate,
>
Youngin' >
'53 > Super 88

Sounds like you neet to get ahold of a clock repairer.  I think you need
to get a copy of Hemmings.  They have clock repairers listed under
Services Offered.  You should be able to find an owner's manual under
Literature for Sale, too.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:24:36 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 Engine question

At 07:21 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I recently purchased a 73 442 with a 455. The car has a 750 holley
>double pumper card and edelbrook intake. I recently started the car and
>stared to hear a cracking or pinging noise every couple of seconds. It
>sounded like the noise was coming from the exhaust. I shut the car off,
>took of the air breather, started the car again. This time the noise
>started, next I saw a flame coming from the top of the carb. I shut the
>car off, caught my breath and watched as the flame slowly went out. Is
>it possible that an intake valve is sticking open causing a backfire.
>
>Also, does anyone know of vacum lines that need to be hooked up for this
>combination to work properly. The guy that I bought the car from, only
>had the carb on the car for a day or two.
>
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drew
>
Drew

        Sounds like you have a bad exhaust valve. That is usually what makes
the pop come back through the carb. The other bad item of note is (I can
guarantee) that you've blown the power valve in the Holley. It still may run
well but your gas mileage and throttle response will suffer now. Holleys
have never liked being backfired through. If the manifold will accept a
spreadbore carb I would replced it with a good Q-jet. The performance
difference is very slight and the economy is a big difference.
Hope this info helps.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:46:57 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Rallye 350 & W-31 Questions

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> A friend of mine was wondering if anyone here knew the answers to these
> questions:
>
> 1. In 1970, how many Rallye 350s were produced with automatic transmissions?
>
> 2. Also in '70, how many W-31 4-speeds were made?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada Greg,

I looked in all of my books and none of them seperate the manual and
automatic trasmissions.  However, I'm not sure if this any help to you
there were 1,029 W-31's produced in '70.  As for the Rallye 350, I
couldn't even find how many were made.  Sorry if this does not help, but
I did the best I could do, being only 17 and using the knowledge I have.

Bryan Bodine
'70 Cutlass S W-31
'71 442

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:44:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Seats

Wayne Schwartz wrote:
>
> I have a 69 442 convertible which I have restored but would like to
> install power seats at least on the drivers side (where they an option
> on both sides).  Maybe someone can help?  What do I need to buy?  I
> assume the seat track and controls.  Where does the control switch
> attach?  How about the power lead?  Anything else I should know?  I'd
> like to know if one of you Olds folks has the required parts for
> sale....how much?  Thanks.
>
> Wayne schwartz


Wayne,

The power bucket seat for the driver was available as a 4-way type -
up/down-back/forth.  The passenger seat was never a power type, but a
driver's one can also be installed on the passenger side.

The switch is installed on the plastic panel that surrounds the lower
part of the seat.  Yours can be cut out or the replacement seat should
have one.  The switch is installed behind the plastic w/holes drilled
for the 2 screws & the single knob for seat operation.  Don't forget the
small stamped metal frame that supports the switch.  The plastic won't
take much use of the switch if that is the only mounting place that it
has.

You will need the tracks.  These will replace you manual ones.  The
switch is very common for many years, but get one w/the seat if you
can.  There is a motor, transmission, & belt/pulley drive system w/a
plastic cover on the front mounted to the track frame.

The wiring is usually included w/the seat tracks.  It connects to the
motor, switch, & then to the fuse box.  It is hot all the time, but can
be connected so as to be only activated by the key switch.  You will
need this wiring harness.

The seat tracks are bolt-ins for your bucket seated car as would be a
power bench seat for a bench seated car.  The real problem comes in
acquiring such a track/harness set.  Only the A body cars of '68-72 will
fit.  A Grand Prix, for instance has a different floor & therefore
different tracks.  Get the one w/the motor/pulley/drive system visable
from the front of the seat & covered w/a plastic shield.

Expect to pay $100 or more for a complete operable one.  Also expect to
find that they are hard to come by at any price.  You may even have to
gather one in pieces.  Even a combination of tracks for a bucket seated
model & other parts from a bench seat model may be an option.

Expect to have to clean, degrease, & re-lubricate one for good
operation.  The belts are a common vacuum cleaner belt & so are not
important.  They are usually very tough & only need a little maintenance
to be eternally operable.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 13:11:12 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

>
>
>On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Jim Hoekendijk wrote:
>
>> I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the
doorpanels >> but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds
the window >> handle regulator. >> Any suggestions? >> >> Jim Hoekendijk, '64
F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser >> If you can't find the tool in any local stores,
a skinny pair of needlenose pliers will do if you're careful.  It's a
horseshoe-shaped clip and you just use the open jaws to push the clip out.  To
put the crank back on, just re-install the clip and push the crank onto the
window regulator shaft, it'll pop right back on.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:57:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Need Favor - '68/'69 Owner

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Lloyd Culp wrote:

> Well, Bill, not that I'm doubting you, but... I'm doubting you. :) The
> only reason I say that is the few little illustrations of this switch
> I've found all seem to show it more towards the right side of the car. I
> was hoping to be able to install it without pulling the radio which is
> why I was looking for the measurements. Unless I turn into Plastic Man
> overnight there's no way I can get to the area above the radio from under
> the dash, so I can't tell if there are any marks there or not.
>
> Greg Beaulieu


Greg,

My car is a convertible & so it has the PT switch 1st, PA last.  I don't
know where I got the idea that there were 3 switches.  The switches are
just large enough to extend the same distance as the in-dash courtesy
light.  Each switch takes up half this distance.  The switches are 1/2"
down from the edge of the plastic toward the courtesy light.  In this
case, I guess you must choose either a left or right position.

I believe that the holes are a rectangle for the switch to recede up
into the dash.  The wiring is attached from there.  The switches are
attached by little wide headed sheet metal screws right into the
plastic.  It looks like quite a trick to do this w/out taking the radio
out.

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 00:08:38 -0300
Subject: Re: How to remove window handle regulator?

At 01:11 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>On Sun, 13 Apr 1997, Jim Hoekendijk wrote:
>>
>>> I'm getting my VC ready for a good paintjob. I want to remove the
doorpanels >>> but can't figure out how to remove the retaining clip that
holds the window >>> handle regulator. >>> Any suggestions? >>> >>> Jim
Hoekendijk, '64 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser >>> >If you can't find the tool in
any local stores, a skinny pair of needlenose >pliers will do if you're
careful.  It's a horseshoe-shaped clip and you just >use the open jaws to push
the clip out.  To put the crank back on, just >re-install the clip and push
the crank onto the window regulator shaft, >it'll pop right back on. > >Greg
Pruett >`72 Vista-Cruiser >`67 Cutlass Supreme > > > At reinstallation
time, have the window all the way up or all the way down, and put the handle
on where it will not be annoying while you are driving. It is a pain in the
arm to have the handle sticking straight up when the window is down, and your
arms is there, and that damned handle is in the way.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 00:16:36 -0300
Subject: Radio / Virtual Junkyard

Guess what, my memory played a little trick on me:
After looking at my radio (69), I can see it's only AM, and doesn't look
as fancy as I remembered.  But it is still original, and I took about 40
pictures of car-type stuff today.

I'm still throwing some terribly sloppy HTML togethor for these pics, but
I got some of it done (should be studying, I'm not!)

There's 40 jpg's labeled apr13_*.jpg in my public_html direcotry, but
only a couple are referenced yet.

Check out some virtual junk at:
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/




EA~

(If anyone wants the radio, I'll take it out and test it)

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:37:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> The following is a list of 64-72 Olds Cutlass/442 parts for sale.
>
> 64 Cutlass/442
> (1) 64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice) $15.00
> (1) 64 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
> RH Headlight Door    $25.00
> F. Bumper Core    $75.00
> RH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
> LH Tail Lens    $5.00ea
> Tail Light Bezels (used) $15.00 ea
> Steering Wheel Center   $10.00
>
> 65 Cutlass/442
> (1) 65 V-8 Fender Emblem (good used)  $5.00
>
> 66 Cutlass/442
> Headlight Doors    $45.00 pr
> 66-67 Golve Box Door (Mint, black)  $35.00
> 66 F-85/Cutlass Trunk Molding (Nice) $65.00
> 66-67 Rear Window Moldings (set)  $75.00 set
> 66 F-85 RH Taillight Lens and bucket (NIce)  $25.00
> 66 Cutlass LH Qtr Molding (Nice)  $20.00
> 66 Front Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
>
> 67 Cutlass/442
> 67 Front Hood Molding (Very nice, no pits)  $60.00
> 67 Front Bumper Core (straight , needs chrome)  $65.00 ea
> 67 C/S Rear Bumper Core (straight, needs chrome)  $65.00
> 67 C/S 442 Side Moldings (missing three pieces, in good to very good cond)
> $20.00 each
> 400/425 NOS Fuel Pump    $50.00
> Headlight Doors NOS   $125.00 pr (Cutlass)
> (2) 67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $15.00 ea
>
> 68 Cutlass/442
> 68 442 Grille Emblem (Very nice)  $25.00
> 68 442 Side Emblems (1 set)  $25.00
> 68 Lower Dash Panel (radio area) black (Mint)  $35.00
> 68-69 Left Quarter Panel (whole thing to roof, no rust w/inner wheelwell)
> $325.00
> 68-72 Windshield Chrome Trim $45.00 Set
> RH Headlight Plastic   $100.00 ea
> Headlight Doors    $5.00 ea
> Rear Bumper Core    $65.00 (cutlass)
> Rear Window Moldings   $40.00 set
> (4) 68 Std. Full Wheel Covers  $75.00 set
>
> 69 Cutlass/442
> Headlight Doors   $40.00 pr
> Hood Tongue   $10.00
> LH Tail Light    $20.00
> 4 Row Radiator Top Plate   $65.00
>
> 70 Cutlass/442
> 70-71 Short Wheelwell Moldings  $100.00 set of 4
> 70-72 Trunk Chrome Finish Molding  $35.00 ea
> 70-72 Dash Block Off  $5.00 ea
> 69-70 442/Cutlass S Hood Louvers $40.00 pr
> 69-70 442 Cutlass S Hood Louver Bezels $30.00 pr
> (1) 69-70 Front Rocket  $10.00
> (1) 70 Trunk Lock Rocket (nice)  $10.00
> (1) 14x7 HD Steel Wheel  (for dog dish caps) $20.00
> Hood Tongue   $20.00 ea
> Headlight Doors   $55.00 pr
> 442 Post Door Panels   $40.00 pr
> Cutlass S Grilles   $50.00 pr
> 455/425/400  Offenhauser 2-4bbl. low rise intake w/2 carter 550 cfm carbs.
> (Complete setup w/ linkage) $350.00
> 70 Cutlass "S" Side Moldings (set) $135.00
>
> 72 Cutlass/442
> New '72 Main Dash Woodgraining Kit  (around radio area)  $20.00
> (4) 72-74 Deluxe Wheel Covers (nice) $50.00 set
> Boxed Lower Control Arms  $60.00 pr
> Dash Pads (A/C car, 2 black)   $125.00 ea
> (5) SSII Wheels 14x7 complete $200.00
>
> Misc: 1986/87  88/98 Wire Wheel Covers   $125.00 set
>
> **** New stuff to list****
> 70 Cutlass Rear Bumper core  $75.00
> 70-72 Long Wheel lip moldings  $120.00 set of (4)
> 70 72 Chrome Hood pins (OAI) nice  $30.00 pr.
> 14x6 SSI Wheels (All chrome) non disc brakes  $40.00 ea
> 70-72 Glove box doors (several colors)  $25.00 ea
> 69 Headlight doors (more sets)  $40.00 pr
> 69 442 Grilles (very good)  $180.00 pr
> RH 70-72 Door 70-71 Cutlass Supreme tabs (complete, rust free)  $100.00
> 70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (nice)  $inquire
> 65?-70 B&C Body Rear Coil Springs (almost new)  $40.00 pr
> 68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $50.00 pr
> 12 Bolt Posi Ch*vy Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $500.00
> Rear Hood Molding  $50.00 ea
> Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $35.00ea
>
> P.S.  We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
> Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators are here. They look great.
> $24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.  Let us know if your interested.
>
> Jim Chermack
> '70 SX W-32
> '72 442
> '86 Ninety Eight
> '94 Cutlass Supreme
> '96 C-1500
> Virginia  Beach, VA
> (757) 474-0869

 Dear J&J,
  I am trying to find some one to trade to buy from, a 3:31 rearend for
my 69 442. I have a 3:73 now. Please advise. Thank you.

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 00:28:31 -0300
Subject: RE: 455 Engine question

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


 =20
[Aaron R. Weimer] =20

- -----Original Message-----
From:James & Joanne Chermack [SMTP:chermac@exis.net]
Sent:Sunday, April 13, 1997 9:25 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: 455 Engine question

At 07:21 PM 4/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I recently purchased a 73 442 with a 455. The car has a 750 holley
>double pumper card and edelbrook intake. I recently started the car and
>stared to hear a cracking or pinging noise every couple of seconds. It
>sounded like the noise was coming from the exhaust. I shut the car off,
>took of the air breather, started the car again. This time the noise
>started, next I saw a flame coming from the top of the carb. I shut the
>car off, caught my breath and watched as the flame slowly went out. Is
>it possible that an intake valve is sticking open causing a backfire.=20
>
>Also, does anyone know of vacum lines that need to be hooked up for =
this
>combination to work properly. The guy that I bought the car from, only
>had the carb on the car for a day or two.
>

[Aaron R. Weimer] =20
This is the same setup I have on my 72 442 W30.  Performer intake with =
750 Double pump, mechanical secondary.  The vacuum on the bottom in the =
front left is to the Trans, and the one on the same side up on the side =
of the carb is the vacuum advance for the distributor.  I can guarantee =
that you will love this setup.  I have a 750 Q-Jet that I took off the =
car and put this Holly on.  The throttle response on the holly is =
nothing shy of super..  Q-Jets are nice, but they require attention from =
time to time.. I have found that they will develop vacuum leeks like a =
strainer over time. :< this is why I put it away.  The holley out =
performs the Q-Jet every day and this is what Mondello recommend to me =
when I talked to him on the issue..=20

One other thing.  With a performer intake there is no valley relief =
valve, you will have to make one, and this will goto the back of the =
carb.  I drilled a hole in the intake just behind the carb, and put a =
base fitting in there.  I also installed very nice braided hoses from =
the two valve cover breathers and drilled two holes in my air cleaner =
bottom, this also helps to remove the engine pressure.. You will know if =
you have removed enough pressure when you tack it up on the road.  If =
there is too much pressure in your valley and valve covers it will force =
oil through your valve guides and out your exhaust.

Aaron

1972 442 W30


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------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 00:23:43 -0300
Subject: Re: New Member

Tom Williams wrote:
>
> HI All
>    My name is Tom Williams. I am the owner of a 1970 olds W-31.
> It has a blue exterior with white stripes and white interior. It is a
> 4 speed car with the 3:91 posi rearend. It is a numbers matching car
> with the correct carb, intake, rear, block, distributor ect...I have
> been an oldsmobile owner of one model or another for approx: 20 years. I
> would appreciate any information on W-31 or oldsmobile cars.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Williams
> 1970 W-31
Tom,

I got this message plus 2 test messages, looks like its all working now.
I will bring the W-31 pictures in tomarrow.

John

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 17:37:20 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: 1967 442

     So _youre_ the one who's been designing all those late-model cars!
     I've been wondering. . .

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

<begin quote>

 Oh what the heck --- i just like Oldsmobiles  -- if some one handed me a
hunk of clay and said make a car shape out of this i would probably end up
with something like a bowling ball on wheels.  Anybody seen a 33 Olds lately
???


                                  J2RKT@aol.com


------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 01:24:42 -0300
Subject: Re: hood clips & pad

Hi all,

I was clearing out some Email that was sooo backdated.

How old was it?

When I was cleaning the CPU I found it under the stack!

Sorry, sorry, I just can't help myself sometimes.

At any rate there was a query about the manipulation of hood pad clips. My
twist on that subject (if I may resurrect the thread) is this; has anyone
attempted to remove the pad, clean it and put it back, or would that be bad
for a 1965 car (asbestos?)

I just get so tired of cleaning my white cap when I forget how dirty the pad
is ...

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 01:13:13 -0300
Subject: 64 parts

Teresa;  Thanks for your reply.I will list a few this I still need;

1964 Olds cutlass F-85 conv. 4 spd. 330.holiday red interior
steering wheel
console
side mirror
T - shifter
rocker chrome
wheel well chrome
front left L side chrome
long rear side chrome
front signal lenses
arm rests
misc. interior parts ( if they are better than mine)
hub caps or optional rims
bumpers (if they are better than mine)
drivers door handle
drivers side mud deflector in front of the wheel well(under rad support)
etc, etc. etc.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 00:37:24 -0300
Subject: RE: Why Engine Flush?

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This is a tough one; you want to do it after your engine has accumulated
some varnish/sludge (i.e. you've just bought a car that was neglected =
for
much of its life, and you want to clean it out). OTOH, you *don't* want =
to
do it if the flush will flush *too* much stuff out (i.e. the engine has =
gone
234,000 miles, and the last time the oil was changed was when Gerald =
Ford
was President...). If too much of the heavy crud gets loosened up, it =
can
block off your oil drainback passages. In this case, you have to pull =
the
engine apart to properly clean it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

[Aaron R. Weimer] =20

Heck.. I would be nice to go 3k before changing the oil.. My olds 442 =
w30, is changed about every 1500 miles.. I also use 50 wt oil.. As =
recommended by my Kenne Bell Cam..

Aaron

1972 442 W30

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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4863.A4DF6FC0--

------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <dbennett@asu.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 02:21:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> Dan Bennett wrote:
> >
> >
> > Well, I'm not an expert but it is a three spoke wheel of brushed
> > stainless steel.  The wheel is tan in color and is made of a rubber
> > substance.  The wheel was is good shape, I just chose the Blue wheel
> > because of my interior color.  I had never seen a three spoke before
>
> Dan,
>
> The '69 Olds 3-spoke wheel does not have brushed stainless spokes as
> does the 4-spoke ones or the earlier 2 & 3-spoke wood grained wheels.
> The wheels you are speaking of are probably the Buick ones w/the vinyl
> rim.  These came in all colors & are very good looking.  '68-76 or so
> Buicks borrrowed the design from Corvette.
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama


Looks like I was fooled.  I suggest then that no-one call this guy as he
will sell you a Buick wheel.  It still looks better than the junky
whhel that was on there but I am very disappointed it is not Olds wheel.
 Thanks for the info.

Dan Bennett
'72 Cutlass and still learning!!

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 02:54:20 -0300
Subject: Carburetor Fires

If you are working on an engine, and have the air cleaner off, and discover
a underhood fire, in the carburetor, the best thing to do is crank the
engine, until it starts.  This will suck the fire back inside the engine
where it can be handled without damage.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: Greg Yonge <gsyonge@genesisnetwork.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 03:54:13 -0300
Subject: '66 Dynamic 88 Power Seats & Production ª's

Can anyone tell me if Driver's side power seats were an option on '66 Dynamic
88's?

Also, does anybody have any production ª's for 1966 Convertible Dynamic 88's?

------------------------------

From: Nick DiGiovanni <ndigiova@Direct.CA>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 03:02:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 Rallye 350 & W-31 Questions

At 09:32 PM 4/13/97 -0300, Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
>A friend of mine was wondering if anyone here knew the answers to these
>questions:
>
>1. In 1970, how many Rallye 350s were produced with automatic transmissions?

For some reason, they did not differentiate the transmission types produced
in the Cutlass line so I have never been able to find a breakdown for the
manual vs. the automatic.  On a side note: 3,547 were sold (1,020 F-85's,
2,367 Cutlass S hardtop coupes, 160 Sport coupes)

>2. Also in '70, how many W-31 4-speeds were made?

Same answer as above regarding the transmissions.  1,352 were sold.
207 F-85 club coupe
116 Cutlass club coupe
1029 Cutlass hardtop coupe




Nick DiGiovanni
ndigiova@Direct.CA
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
1970 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 04:21:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Carburetor Fires

In a message dated 97-04-14 02:02:46 EDT, the Wiz wizened us:

>
>  If you are working on an engine, and have the air cleaner off, and
discover
>  a underhood fire, in the carburetor, the best thing to do is crank the
>  engine, until it starts.  This will suck the fire back inside the engine
>  where it can be handled without damage.
>
>  The Wiz
>

Umm, Wiz?

This is specifically for non-nitrous eating machines, right?


Just a thought...


Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 04:44:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil filler tube cap

Pop quiz hot shots!


My service manual (1965) says that the gunk on the oil filler tube cap
(breather?) should be dissolved in kerosene, and after that giver a treatment
of 10W-30.

(And let's please not have another oil thread!)

I have to presume that some of you have experience with this procedure. My
question would be how much oil? I understand that the oil acts as sort of a
filtering element for dust etc. so the procedure itself makes some sense. I
have seen (in Chevvy Craft etc.) paper filters on filler caps. Is this a
better method?

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 07:08:50 -0300
Subject: ADMIN: Posting Reminder

Just a quick reminder: please try to take parts transactions to private
mail as much as possible. I'm glad that the list is a resource for people
seeking parts but once you find something, the details of the transaction
should not be here. And please try to trim your follow-up posts as much
as you can.

I saw a reference to photos also, and got a chill: remember, photos are
absolutely forbidden to be posted to the list. Causes all sorts of problems.

Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 07:31:27 -0300
Subject: 1978 - 80 Cutlass Sport Mirror For Sale (4/14)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

NOS, in primer and in the original box righthand manual adjust sport
mirror.  Part number 20131594.  This appears to be identical to the
mirror on our '79 H/O (except for paint of course), so I'm assuming that
it was designed to fit the 1978 to 1980 Cutlass line.  I can't confirm
this because the part is newer than my newest parts book and the local
Oldsmobile store tells me that the part number shows as having been
discontinued.  $45.00, including shipping within North America.
(4/14/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: GARY RUBRICH <RUBRICH@bwaafs.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 08:42:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED -Reply -Reply

Tom,
  Yes, I do have a 68-69 tic-toc-tach for sale, but just the tach
only. It's in great condition and everything works. The only thing I
cannot be responsible for is calibration, these thing are notorious
for being inaccurate. The price is $150.00 US plus shipping. My name
is Gary and I live in Michigan.
                                                  Thanks,
                                                  Gary
                                                  72 442 (350)

>>> THOMAS J MC DONALD <QJKH55A@prodigy.com>  4/11/97, 10:17pm >>>
I am looking for a Tic Toc Tack for my 68 442 400ci do you have one
for sale?

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeffrey.Easton@add.ssw.abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:30:12 -0300
Subject: New Set Of Olds Archives Available

A new archive set of Olds Mailing List material is now available
from my web site.  Digests =A6500 thru =A6599, covering 02/05/97 thru
04/08/97 are now available for download at;

  http://www.calcon.net/~easton

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442 4-speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 03:41:04 -0300
Subject: Re: '66 Dynamic 88 Power Seats & Production ª's

Greg Yonge wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me if Driver's side power seats were an option on '66
Dynamic 88's? > > Also, does anybody have any production ª's for 1966
Convertible Dynamic 88's?

I believe that driver's side bucket seats were an option on all 2-door
Oldsmobiles by 1966.  These probably can be taken from a Grand Prix of
that ere as the floor is the same.  They were most common in the Grand
Prix rather than Olds or Buick.

Bill Culp
Dectur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 03:45:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil filler tube cap

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
>
> Pop quiz hot shots!
>
> My service manual (1965) says that the gunk on the oil filler tube cap
> (breather?) should be dissolved in kerosene, and after that giver a
treatment > of 10W-30. > > (And let's please not have another oil thread!) > >
I have to presume that some of you have experience with this procedure. My >
question would be how much oil? I understand that the oil acts as sort of a >
filtering element for dust etc. so the procedure itself makes some sense. I >
have seen (in Chevvy Craft etc.) paper filters on filler caps. Is this a >
better method? > > Karl Aune > 1965 Dynamic 88 > Chicago, IL

Karl,

The advantages to the oil filtering system is that it is constantly
reusable.  The paper one requires a replacement paper regularly.  These
are a little hard or expensive to get now.  I would stick w/the oil
system.

I would think that the use of an oil squirt can or a small spoon might
be the less messy.  It shouldn't take much.  None should drip out when
the cap is upright.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: forlando@IA.ATT.com
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:34:09 -0300
Subject: Need 70- 442 parts

Fellow olds fans - looking for a pair of 1970 - 442 sport mirrors and an
AM/FM stereo radio.  Reasonably priced of course!   Would appreciate any
help.  Can pick up at upcoming Carlisle or Englishtown flee markets.
Thanks,

Frank  (forlando@att.com)

------------------------------

From: "Curtis A. Stanley" <d43cas@morgan.ucs.mun.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:29:53 -0300
Subject: New Member

Hey guys and gals.  This server is great.
 I have a 1966 Olds Delta 88 four door Hardtop
It is white with blue interior
It has a 425 2BL and a turbo hydramatic tranny
I have just recovered the seats and door panels and replaced the carpet.
one problem i have is the rear deck in the rear window. there was
a leak in the window and the trim on the deck is rotted (the carpet like
stuff)  does any one have any ideas what i could replace this with?

Alst would any one recomend switching to a 4Bl carb and intade manifold?

Curtis Stanley
66 delta 88

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:34:09 -0300
Subject: Olds Project Cars

If I am violating any rules, please let me know, but I found a few of Olds
cars in the Sunday classifieds here in Cleveland, OH. I'd be happy to
forward phone ªªs to anyone interested.

'60 Super 88 4dr. super shape, must see, $3200
'61 98 Holiday 4dr., Alabama car, mint, $5900
'64 F85, 330 rebuilt body & frame solid, very restorable, $800
'67 Cutlass Conv, 330 4-spd, disc brakes, complete but rusty, $750, all or
parts
'68 Cutlass 350, 4 dr., auto, broken frame, $500
'69 442 Solid, Blue/black, buckets, slapstick, gauges, headers, $3800
'71 &'74 Delta convs, for parts, $600 for both
'76 Delta 27K original miles, EC
'79 Cutlass Supreme V8 2, dr. black, air, ralley wheels, clean, 79K $2600

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª610
********************************
