To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #608


oldsmobile-digest         Saturday, 12 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 608

Non-Olds: Re: '62 buick invicta
Re: Re[2]: interesting observations
RE: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Tires & Radios
Re: Steering Wheel
Been gone for a while
Re: Lower body paint protection
Re:  dash covers
Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED -Reply
Re: Why Engine Flush?
Re: Re[2]: 1967 442
Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)
Re: '62 buick invicta
Re: Steering Wheel
Re: Non Olds humor
Origional Invoice
Re: Steering Wheel
Re: Steering Wheel
Crankcase tech quiz *update*
Re: Steering Wheel
Re: Steering Wheel
castle nut clip for spinde with speedo drive?
Re: Origional Invoice
Worst Loss, Best Buy
Re: Worst Loss, Best Buy
One more 1970 Cutlass question
Re: Why Engine Flush?
Re: Darwin Award/JATO idiot (Funny, somewhat long)
Re: Lower body paint protection
Re: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)
Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question
Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question
limited slip questions
Changed my E-mail
81 engine swap
RE: 81 engine swap
parts suppliers
Re: Origional Invoice
RE: Funny stuff
Re: castle nut clip for spinde with speedo drive?
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
RE: 81 engine swap
Floor Mats
Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question
Re: 1975-80 Starfire Registry (was: OCA Chapter List ...)
Re: 215 in Starfire (was: Aluminum Intake)
70 olds ª's
Re: 12-bolt rear in a g-body
Re: interesting observations
Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?
Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question
Re: Cabin Feaver (sic)
81 cutlass
Re: 1967 442
Re: Steering Wheel

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:25:32 -0300
Subject: Non-Olds: Re: '62 buick invicta

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Clayton Pierce wrote:

> Isn't that "It _IS_ a 445 Wildcat" not "has"?

Nope. It *could* be a Wildcat because in '62 they were a subseries of the
Invicta (2-door hardtop and convertible only though, I believe). But
Buick's early 60's motors were all called "Wildcat" V-8s. The one in my
'64 is a Wildcat 310. The 445 is the torque rating, not the displacement,
BTW.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 21:32:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: interesting observations

> > I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.  The
old > > oil was Mobil 1 ...I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my >
> water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and the >
 >           I think these observations are consistent with replacing a >
synthetic oil with a non-synthetic.  The reduced internal >
friction of the synthetic would account for the hotter >           coolant
temp with the Castrol.  In addition, I would assume

I just read somewhere that synthetic oil can transfer heat 10% more
efficiently than petroleum based lubricants, so this could partly
account for the reduction in engine temperatures with Mobil 1.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:38:44 -0300
Subject: RE: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

At 06:59 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>              Would that hood moulding for the '67 be the same as for the '67
 >cutlass convertible????? > >Let me know please, >           Thanks, >  Dan. >
dsm137@gti.net > Dan
        Yes. It's the same for the Cutlass too.

Jim

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:44:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Tires & Radios

>>I'm looking for some nice (but not outrageously expensive)
>>touring/passenger WW tires for my '69 Delta 88.
>
>>Is the P235/70 tires size okay for the car. I want something beefier, but
>>nowhere near radical or non-stock looking.
>
>Well the 235/70/15 general tires on my Vista-Cruiser ride and handle
>beautifuly.  The car weighs about 4500 lb and has a pretty long wheelbase so
>it's probably close to the size of your 88.  The 235s are probably a little
>wider than stock but they won't look out of place and will be a definite
>(sp?) improvement.  Wider tires  help the look of any car IMHO,  as long as
>they will fit inside the stock fenderwells and don't rub.

  I think you might have a bit of a rub problem with 255's but on my '70 I
have 225/70/15 's in the front and 235/60/15 in the rear, the 60's fit like
a charm and aren't all that much wider than the 70's in front but i do get
a lot better traction out of it, I may switch to 60's in the front also for
a bit better handling, but the 235's fir on stock rims no problem and still
look stock is thats what your shooting for, good luck :-)

Okay, I'm running 235/75/15s on the four corners of my 70 98,
which is stock.  Two of them are shot.  Any suggestions as to what
would be better sizes to use and would fit my current rims?

235/70s are wider and shorter, right?

-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\ (810)
825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/ Sterling Hts.,
MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:54:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

At 10:26 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I understand that the sport steering wheel was an option for a 69 442.
>Can anybody tell me if it came just in black, or did it match the
>interior color?  It was three spoked, right?  Also, could this car be
>orderd with a remote mirror?
>
>Thanks!
>69 442 Conv.
>
The steering wheel was color matched to the interior. I had a 69 W-32 442
that came with that wheel and it was gold. The guy still has the car.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:57:52 -0300
Subject: Been gone for a while

All,

I've been gone for almost two weeks.  I finally got good and fed up with
AOL and told them to get lost.  My new ISP only opened my account today.
For those of you who care, please make a note of the new address.  Its:

plh@leba.net

If anyone has tried to reach me over the past couple of weeks, please try
again at the new address.  Hopefully I'll soon figure out how the heck
this new system works.

Did I miss anything important?

Paul Hartlieb
'72 Cutlass Supreme (out of winter storage)
'67 Ninety Eight (got new sneakers to go to Lansing)

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:57:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Lower body paint protection

At 05:22 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Let's see if anyone wants to tackle this one:
>
>I am thinking about repainting my 85 442. It has the factory paint still
>on it, (I know this, I ordered the car.)
>
>What I need to know is about the factory paint protection for the lower
>body areas between the wheel wells and behind the rear wheel well.  It's
>a rough looking, dimply type of coating that LOOKS like it was applied
>BEFORE the silver.  I'm not sure.  I don't know what this stuff is, but
>when I get the car repainted, I want to be able to get this stuff put
>back on the car.  I've seen it on numerous cars, but I haven't heard of
>anyone replacing this stuff when the car was repainted.  The  look of
>originality is to be maintained.
>
>ANY IDEAS, PEOPLE?
>
>Mike Rothe
>
Mike

        That stuff on the rocker panels is called Rocker Sholtz. 3M makes it
and it's available at auto paint suppliers. You tape off the arear you want
it and then paint right over it when the car gets painted. Hope this helps
you.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 23:01:04 -0300
Subject: Re:  dash covers

At 05:27 AM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>>Where is a good place to get the ABS hard plastic style dash cover? The
>>$500 that just dashes wants to redo my dash just isn't in the budget
>>right now..
>
>Stephen,  '70 Cutlass dash pads tend to hold up pretty well and seem to be
>pretty commonly available in very good condition at junkyards.  What color
are >you looking for?  Is the Cutlass "S" pad the same as other Cutlass and
442 pads? >I believe it is.  Unless you're looking for a rare color, I'm sure
you can get >one off somebody on the list for less than $200 and probably less
than $100 if >you visit your local pick-a-part and pull it yourself.  You may
have to try a >few different yards over the course of a few months though.
Let me know if you >still can't find one and I'll keep an eye out. > >hans > >
Hey guys,

        I've got a few dash pads for 70 - 72 Cutlasses. What color do you
need I have black and blue. I usually ask $125.00 for a very nice one.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: QJKH55A@prodigy.com ( THOMAS J MC DONALD)
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 23:17:43 -0300
Subject: Re: 68 W-30 AIR CLEANER WANTED -Reply

I am looking for a Tic Toc Tack for my 68 442 400ci do you have one
for sale?

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 23:07:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Why Engine Flush?

At 06:24 PM 4/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Sorry for stupid question, But how does one know when to do it or it's
>something extra to insure your are taking care of your car ? I mean since
>most good car keeper change oil every 3k-5k miles and the oil came out of
>engine almost as new as those that going in.

This is a tough one; you want to do it after your engine has accumulated
some varnish/sludge (i.e. you've just bought a car that was neglected for
much of its life, and you want to clean it out). OTOH, you *don't* want to
do it if the flush will flush *too* much stuff out (i.e. the engine has gone
234,000 miles, and the last time the oil was changed was when Gerald Ford
was President...). If too much of the heavy crud gets loosened up, it can
block off your oil drainback passages. In this case, you have to pull the
engine apart to properly clean it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 23:36:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 1967 442

     Well -- i just gotta get my two pennies worth on this one,
With an obvious bias --  i really really like the 67 Olds F85's over the
whole shebang.
I never did like the belt line brightwork on the 66's or the 67's.  I think
it makes the cars look clunky and heavy.  I prefer the 442/Supreme rear
bumper over the F85 bumper on the 67 Olds's simply because they look better
to me.  I have always owned 67 Oldsmobiles so....  the 66's have always
seemed a little bit funny looking especially the tail-lights and it always
seemed like something was missing when i looked at them from the front  ---
 Oh what the heck --- i just like Oldsmobiles  -- if some one handed me a
hunk of clay and said make a car shape out of this i would probably end up
with something like a bowling ball on wheels.  Anybody seen a 33 Olds lately
???


                                  J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:21:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Power Windows Transplant (manual to power)

C.R.F. wrote:

> >
> >Hmmm, after reading all the suggestions, something occurred to me; couldn't
> >you just swap the entire set of doors, and have them painted to match your
> >car? That'd kill a whole *flock* of birds...
> >_______________________________________________________
> >Dr. Robert Barry
> >
> >
> >
> Bob,
>
> An interesting thought.  But it would not help with the biggest pain in the
> conversion, the power window wiring sub-harness.
>
> This poster was also considering changing over to the power door locks,
> which would be much easier at the change of the doors, until you get to its
> sub-harness.
>
> And then hanging and squaring up the doors is a major project alone.
>
> I think it would be better to change the small parts.
>
> The Wiz

Wiz,

Don't forget the wiring harness goes through the door & the door post.
To cut these holes, one must remove the doors anyway.  Hanging doors is
going to happen either way.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 17:52:25 -0300
Subject: Re: '62 buick invicta

Dustin Cross wrote:
>

>
> not familiar with this vintage at all    name on the car is Invicta
> aircleaner says 445 wildcat   didnt spend much time looking at it
>
> Dustin
>
> > Anon III
> >


445 refers to torque on these Buick engines.  Edsel did the same thing &
so did Mercury.  Many people mistake this for HP or displacement.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 17:56:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> I understand that the sport steering wheel was an option for a 69 442.
> Can anybody tell me if it came just in black, or did it match the
> interior color?  It was three spoked, right?  Also, could this car be
> orderd with a remote mirror?
>
> Thanks!
> 69 442 Conv.

I haave only seen these 3-spoke things in black.  I have one that is
good up in the barn if I can find all the parts.  I'll have to look for
it.  They are not bad looking, but the 4-spoke '70 & up ones look
better.

The remote mirror for the '69 is the same as the '68.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 22:36:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Non Olds humor

> RUNS FINE
>      I was going to say "runs excellent" but I had a last minute attack of
> conscience.

My version of that is "Runs out good." Which of course means that it
will not idle under half throttle.

Danny

------------------------------

From: ASLY10A@prodigy.com (MR BOB M MASELLA)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 01:53:48 -0300
Subject: Origional Invoice

Is there a way to find a copy of the origional invoive for my car.  I
know that Pontiac supplies interested parties with copies of their
records on a particular car, I was wondering if anyone knows if
Oldsmobile provides the same tyoe of service?  Thank you

------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <dbennett@asu.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 01:21:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
> >
> > I understand that the sport steering wheel was an option for a 69 442.
> > Can anybody tell me if it came just in black, or did it match the
> > interior color?  It was three spoked, right?
>
> I have only seen these 3-spoke things in black.  I have one that is
> good up in the barn if I can find all the parts.  I'll have to look for
> it.  They are not bad looking, but the 4-spoke '70 & up ones look
> better.
>
>
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama


I have one of these three spokes on my '72 Supreme, and it looks great.
 It is blue, and I got it at a parts swap meet for $50.00, with the horn
ring and hub.  The guy I bought it from has another, in a Tan color for
the same price at least he did a couple of weeks ago.  I can get a phone
number if anyones intrested.

Dan Bennett
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: JNelson751@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 02:39:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

i might be interested in it if the first mailer isn'nt and it not cracked and
over my budget
      thanx
jeff
69 442 ragtop

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 05:30:35 -0300
Subject: Crankcase tech quiz *update*

     Well, folks, it's time to consolidate two previously unrelated threads
today (you'll understand soon enough, and those that know me well probably
already have an idea what the other thread was!)  I recently posted the
question about some crankcase pressure problems and symptoms, and got a few
replies which matched my theories perfectly (theories ~and~ prayers!)
However, yesterday I developed a few new symptoms, and today I found a few
more.  Yesterday, it started taking oil noticably (determined by the cloud
behind me for six blocks) and developed a misfire (or two.)  Today I
determined that ª3 and ª7 were completely dead.  I didn't check compression,
tho.  Shortly thereafter (approximately two miles in town, perhaps?) I
developed the next and final set of symptoms: that familiar incessant
knocking with a disturbingly loud clicking at the same time (accompanying
the previously mentioned misfires!)  Oil pressure sitting at 55, water temp
at about 210, everything seemed to be fairly normal.  Gave it about half
throttle, she let out one final squack of the tires into second, and then
started going downhill quickly.  I drove it home (about 8 blocks, I guess,)
never overheated, and never lost oil pressure, but kept knocking pretty bad.
It's no bearing knock, though.  I'll have to do some more diagnosis later,
but as for the crankcase tech quiz, the answer ~apparantly~ wasn't in the
intake after all :(  When I got the engine, it was still on the crate, it
had been overhauled (semi-professionally) and never fired.  That overhaul
was necessitated by a broken piston at 5000 miles on another overhaul. (This
one's got about 5000, too.  Coincidence?)  I'm strongly considerring the
possibility (probability?) that I'm seeing a repeat failure of the same
nature.  Maybe a bad wristpin or rod's small end?  I don't know.  It's
really strange that it ran so strong though.  I don't know the nature of the
previous piston failure, though, either.  I'll just have to tear into 'er
and see what I find.  Either way, the Rockit is (once again) Rocketless :-(
(and still bent in back)  But, it does have a new, dark tinted driver's side
window :)  (Everyone in unison, now:  "OOooh, Ahhhh...")

Anyway, I'll keep you posted, whenever I learn more...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 318 BigBlock
(very)odd-fireV6
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455

             Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
                       .     .    . .
                   .        .    .  .
              ___     .    .    . .    ___
              `-_--__  .  . ___ -  __--_-'
                `-_  ---_ ./   \_--  _-'
                  `--_ /.\|  "  | __-'.  .
                    __-\_/\--__/_-
               . . /     \/      \  . . .
             .    | .'.  |    .`..|.      .
                  .\_____/\______/   .
                .        |ªª|.^.
              .          |ªª||  .
                         |ªª|| ACK ACK Phftt!---        |ªª|| .
                        / / ||:..
                       | | /  |
                       | ' |  |
                      / \_/   |
                    _-        |

------------------------------

From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 09:32:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

JNelson751@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> i might be interested in it if the first mailer isn'nt and it not cracked
and > over my budget >       thanx > jeff > 69 442 ragtop


I'd also be interested in that sterring wheel.  My interior is puke green
/tanish.  Let me know.  Thanks!

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 07:51:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, Dan Bennett wrote:
> I have one of these three spokes on my '72 Supreme, and it looks great.
>  It is blue, and I got it at a parts swap meet for $50.00, with the horn
> ring and hub.  The guy I bought it from has another, in a Tan color for
> the same price at least he did a couple of weeks ago.  I can get a phone
> number if anyones intrested.

The '69 sport wheel is sort of unique. It looks something like the
"deluxe" wheel from '68 or '69 with 3 spokes but has a fake wood rim. It
is a 1-year only piece I believe. The '68 sport wheel has 3 brushed
stainless spokes, while the '69 has a different spoke style and the hub is
larger thanks to the '69 steering column being bigger to handle the
ignition lock. Then in '70 they went with the 4-spoke style. Lots of
choices, kind of confusing.  If those are actual '69 sport wheels being
offered for $50 and not deluxe wheels, it's a good deal.


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 09:41:14 -0300
Subject: castle nut clip for spinde with speedo drive?

    Hi all, I am inneed of some help. on my '70 88 I just replaced the
spindle and rotor, and can't find out what kind of clip holds the castle
nut on, parts stores around here are no help, they still can't get over the
fact that ppl drive cars that old, everyonr keeps telling me to find the
hole and put a cotter pin in it but there isn't one because of where the
spedometer drive goes in, any help would be much appreciated,

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 09:49:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Origional Invoice

At 01:53 AM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Is there a way to find a copy of the origional invoive for my car.  I
>know that Pontiac supplies interested parties with copies of their
>records on a particular car, I was wondering if anyone knows if
>Oldsmobile provides the same tyoe of service?  Thank you

>From what the Olds History Center has said, they can only "pick up an
invoice" if your car is 1977 model year or newer.  But I've heard of people
_with_ 1977 or newer model years Oldsmobiles and the history center _still_
wasn't able to get one.  Apparently Olds did not save invoices for pre-1977
cars, and, while they may have wanted to save post-1977 ones, they didn't
start doing it regularly until sometime after 1977.  Unless you have all of
the original documentation that came with your car, you might not ever be
able to find the invoice.

I managed to track down the original selling dealer of my '75 Delta 88 in
New Jersey, and I wrote to him asking about the invoice and anything else
he might have (this was about two years ago that I wrote).  He was very
friendly, and he did some searching around in the dealership's records, but
he couldn't find anything other than something called a "delivery card,"
which listd the date the car was delivered to the purchaser and the name
and address of the purchaser.  He said that the salesman who had originally
sold my car had died in 1988 and that the dealership doesn't routinely keep
sales records for more than 10 years anyway.

I tried to track down that original purchaser, but there was no listing in
the local (Trenton) phone book with that name.  So that's where it pretty
much ended.

If your car is not too old, you might have some luck tracing its ownership
history back through auto title bureaus.  You'd be searching for the
original purchaser in the hopes that that person is still alive, that they
want to be bothered by complete strangers, and that they bothered to hang
onto the purchase records of a car they no longer own.

It's a long shot, but good luck!


Dan



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 11:48:33 -0300
Subject: Worst Loss, Best Buy

I'll try to keep this Oldsmobile related and therefore won't give y'all
the gory details on the '92 Ranger which I leased new with no money
down, for less than $100 per month.  Both my loss and buys are parts,
rather than whole vehicles, and both involve Outside Air Induction
systems:

My worst loss was the OAI setup which I had purchased from a 1968
Hurst/Olds drag racer and added to my '68 442.  I would have removed it
from the car in 1972 when I was selling it for $850.00, but couldn't
because my parents had cleaned out the garage while I was away in the
army and had thrown out the original air cleaner.  Today of course, that
air cleaner assembly and the two scoops would probably be worth more
than I sold that whole car for.  And based upon my habits for collecting
and keeping everything I lay my hands on, I'd still have it if I'd just
had the original aircleaner to put back on.  Thinking more about it,
maybe the original aircleaner was my worst loss . . .

My best buy was the undamaged hood and aircleaner assembly I took off a
severely rear-ended 1970 Pace Car that was in a local boneyard back
about 1976.  Since I had to do the work of getting the hood off the car,
they told me I could have it for $75.00.  They had already pulled the
engine and transmission, but they were still there in the yard.  The
aircleaner wasn't with it though, and they didn't know where it had gone
to.  They told me I was welcome to look around and if I could find it, I
could have it along with the hood.  It took me less than 5 minutes to
find the whole assembly, dumped into the trunk of another nearby car.

I sold the hood later that same day at a tidy profit, but since it was
replacing an accident damaged hood the air cleaner assembly didn't sell
with it.  That found a new owner a couple of months later, further
adding to my profits.  By the way, I'll bet my '72 W-30 looked kind of
funny headed for home with that extra hood tied upside down on the roof.
Big old scoops everywhere . . .

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

From: SRB442@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 12:23:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss, Best Buy

Hi All,
         I guess my worst loss was back in 1978 I had a 73 442, 455 4speed,
swivel buckets, 8 track am-fm that I had just finished dolling up. My
girlfriend (which by the way is my wife now)  and I were out crusing around
then decided to go to one of our favorite parking spots just as I was slowing
down to make a right hand turn I was rear ended on the right rear corner of
the car driving me accross the road (luckily no other cars were coming). The
guy who hit me was drunk and the car was totaled. The car was hit in the
right rear and kinked the roof above the driver. Neither one of us was hurt
bad and when we got out of the car both swivel buckets just fell backwards
into the rear seat area. The worst loss part is that I found out years later
that there were only 800 455 4spd cars built. I still have the window sticker
as a momento though.




















                                                                        Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 12:28:26 -0300
Subject: One more 1970 Cutlass question

As I continue to pour over my build sheet, I find another perplexing
question.  The car came with options B32, "Frt Floor Mat," and B33, "Rr Floor
Mat."  As I have never seen a floor mat from a 1970 Cutlass, what exactly do
they look like?  Where can I get my hands on some repros?  And are the mats
colored to the carpeting, or a generic black, like they were in my dad's old
Chevy?

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 12:48:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Why Engine Flush?

My engine flush ideals:

IMHO (not neccesarily truth related).  Engine flush is a corrosive, and
excessive use is probably bad, so I stick to the following:
1.  When I first buy a car (but after I change it once and see if it's
turns to sludge in seconds).
2.  Roughly annually, usually before driving season (I do the
winter/summer car thing).
3.  To see if I can eliminate 'ticks' (this does work the odd time!)
4.  Also, as an added bonus, I usually only use 1/2 reccomended amount for
my cutlass 350, which has had brown oil (never black) for the 3
1/2 years I've owned it.

....
This bandwidth is dedicated to proper maintenance of any car worth owning!
....


EA~

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997, Lynn wrote:

> Sorry for stupid question, But how does one know when to do it or it's
> something extra to insure your are taking care of your car ? I mean since
> most good car keeper change oil every 3k-5k miles and the oil came out of
> engine almost as new as those that going in.
>
>

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 13:43:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Darwin Award/JATO idiot (Funny, somewhat long)

In a message dated 4/10/97 5:21:34 PM, you wrote:

<<This matches a listing which _is_ described as True, but listed as
happening on July 2, 1982, when he made it to 16,000 feet. No name
given. Copycat, perhaps?>>

TRUE-Happened in st.louis.  Was the guys birthday-wife did the baloons-jerk
had a BB GUN to deflate the baloons for descent........

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 13:50:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Lower body paint protection

In a message dated 4/11/97 8:40:57 PM, you wrote:

<<What I need to know is about the factory paint protection for the lower
body areas between the wheel wells and behind the rear wheel well.  It's
a rough looking, dimply type of coating that LOOKS like it was applied
BEFORE the silver.  I'm not sure. >>

It's called "body Schiltz".  Any competant well equiped body shop can shoot
it!

------------------------------

From: Oldoldsguy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 13:51:39 -0300
Subject: Re: 4-spoke wheels (was: Acquired Olds)

In a message dated 4/11/97 10:56:21 PM, you wrote:

<<Find me a good one with lots of grain on it!  I have seen super nice wheels
sell for as little as $75, or as much as $300!
>>

You buyin, sellin, or just muddyin da water?

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 04:04:52 -0300
Subject: Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question

 The car came with options B32, "Frt Floor Mat," and B33, "Rr Floor
>Mat."  As I have never seen a floor mat from a 1970 Cutlass, what exactly do
>they look like?  Where can I get my hands on some repros?  And are the mats
>colored to the carpeting, or a generic black, like they were in my dad's old
>Chevy?

They were rubber floor mats, very thick compared to the ones you get at
wal-mart.  The front mats are rectangular and have "OLDSMOBILE" molded into
them in maybe 1/2" block letters.  The front half has a bunch of small (I'm
guessing 1/8 inch wide) ridges running front to back.  The back half has
about 4 ridges that are much wider running side to side.  The rear mats are
square and have the same pattern as the back half of the front floor mats.

I think the original mats were color-coordinated with the interior, because
I found a green one in an old green `72 cutlass at a junkyard.  Year one has
repros but only in generic black and they're $129 a set.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 13:59:14 -0300
Subject: Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997 Kabootski@aol.com wrote:
> As I continue to pour over my build sheet, I find another perplexing
> question.  The car came with options B32, "Frt Floor Mat," and B33, "Rr
Floor > Mat."  As I have never seen a floor mat from a 1970 Cutlass, what
exactly do > they look like?  Where can I get my hands on some repros?  And
are the mats > colored to the carpeting, or a generic black, like they were in
my dad's old > Chevy?

I've seen some color-keyed ones so I guess that's how the factory did it.
You can get repros, at a price, but in black only. All the usual places
have them - Fusick's, Year One, etc...

BTW, while shopping this morning I encountered a nice old '71 Cutlass S
2-door. Hard to find something like this around here. Looked like original
paint, no body rust I could see anywhere, even the bumpers looked good.
Brown metallic with a parchment bench interior, with a auto parts store
cloth slipcover over the front seat. A real plain-jane otherwise, no wheel
opening or roof drip moldings. Odometer showed 45,xxx, I'd guess original.
Only bad thing I saw was some bubbling in the corner of the dash by the
VIN plate. I waited for the little ol' lady I imagined was driving it but
she never showed...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 14:00:20 -0300
Subject: limited slip questions

Well, no one really replied to this question so I'm sending it again in
hopes that I could get a knowledgable response.  The gear ratio turned out
to be 2.56.  I don't think that it would be worth it for me to up upgrade
from 2.14 to 2.56, but I'm more interested in the limited slip mechanism.
Can this mechanism be interchanged between different gear ratios, in hopes
that maybe I can find a better ratio somewhere down the line?

> My second question stems from finding a limited slip unit in an '88
> Cutlass Supreme Classic. I don't know what ratio is in these either but it
> had the posi tag on the diff.  I couldn't find the key to check the
> sticker in the trunk either.  I'm sure it's the 7.5" rear.  So it should
> swap easily into my diff.  My question is how difficult it is to remove
> the gears and limited slip carriers?  Could someone like myself pull it
> with limited knowledge and tools?  Also how long would this take? I'm not
> going to try to install these myself but want to have them for later.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Reilly
> '85 Cutlass Supreme
> wreilly@acad.bryant.edu
>
P.S. The guy at the yard tried to pass the ratio off as a 3.73.  I told
him that that only came in the 442 model.  He was kind of surprised, that
I knew that.

------------------------------

From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 11:30:55 -0300
Subject: Changed my E-mail

Just a quick note to those that I have written to.  I have changed my
ISP so my e-mail address has changed from cya442@inetworld.net to
cya442@mindspring.com.

Thanks,
Chris Miller
'68 442

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 14:39:14 -0300
Subject: 81 engine swap

I would like to know if anyone has dropped a 350 in a 81 cutlass.  What where
the major obstacles and what to look for there is a 231 buick in it right now.
What parts can be used off the car.  Will I need a new drive shaft?  How about
the rear end.

Thanks Doug

------------------------------

From: mjtwist@unccvx.uncc.edu
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 15:59:02 -0300
Subject: RE: 81 engine swap

Another closely-related question...I'm preparing to put an Olds 350 into an
'84 Cutlass that currently has an Olds 307...It appears that most everything
will match up (driveshaft, transmission, mounts, etc.). But I was wondering
if the acessories like A/C, Alt. and power steering will bolt on. I'm also
curious about headers. I'm trying to find a set that will work and haven't
quite found anything suitable yet. A final question - I have a nicely built
Ch*vy 350 sitting in the garage, but have opted to have an Olds 350 built
for my Cutlass instead (I would like to keep this as high-quality, stock
appearing project as possible)...Just for arguement's sake - what kind of
work would have to be done to get a small block Chevy in there? Just curious,
but I don't plan on doing it.

Otherwise the car is excellent....A southern car with T-Tops and power
everything....A great car to work with (the previous owner didn't baby it like
I plan to)

Thanks,

Mike Twist

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 17:02:01 -0300
Subject: parts suppliers

Does anyone have a opinion on Oldsmobile USA parts Supply Ltd?
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 17:55:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Origional Invoice

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, MR BOB M MASELLA wrote:

> Is there a way to find a copy of the origional invoive for my car.  I
> know that Pontiac supplies interested parties with copies of their
> records on a particular car, I was wondering if anyone knows if
> Oldsmobile provides the same tyoe of service?  Thank you
>
We've had quite a bit of discussion about this in the past.  Oldsmobile
does have some invoices, but how far back they go seems to depend on what
day of the week you make your inquiry.  At one point I was told that they
only went back to 1977, but others have more recently received various
answers, none of them going back as far as '77.  Can you try the original
selling dealer?  Many dealer keep invoices for 7 to 10 years.  I was
fortunate to get the invoice to my '72 from the dealer.  I was lucky, it
was one of the few that they had on file.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:00:48 -0300
Subject: RE: Funny stuff

At 07:36 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>sure it is,Aaron,sure it is.
>
>Funny how he challenged something he knew he could beat, must not have alot
>of confidence in the 5.0.
>I had a similar experience yesterday with none other than an Olds Achieva.
>We raced stoplight to stoplight and I let him win the first race (he was
>laughing at me, rolled his window down and called my car a piece of sh!t) Ok
>so the light turns green and by the time he puts his foot on the gas I am at
>the next light already parked...he wouldn't even look at me now. Another
>dumb@ss high school punk who thinks just because his car had dark tint,
>wheels outside the body, loud bass and headlight covers his car was faster
>than mine. I ~never~ get a 5.0 that will race me. I taunt them to no avail.
>Maybe I smell bad or something:)
>
>[Aaron R. Weimer]
>
>I had a really nice run with a 1985 Thunderbird with a 351 Cleveland.  I
was sitting at the light in town and he rolled up next to me running open
headers, revved it a few times.  I just rolled my head over and told him he
was asking for trouble.  His buddies were just leafing.  I am sitting here
at the light in my '72 442 W30, 455, 750 holly, 2" hookers, and a 3 speed
auto with a really good B&M shift kit.  This guy was in for it.  I dropped
it into low figured I had better shift it tight, ya never know.  On the
green light I mashed the peddle, didn't bother torquing it at all.  Right
off I had three car lengths.  While I was in 1st he had already hit second,
I slammed second, the 295/50's broke loose at 45mps, by this time I had him
by 6 car lengths, he hit 4th..  I dropped it in 3rd, and by now I am hitting
80 and the tires squawked again into 3rd :>  This was nice.  And it was
over.  3rd started to wined and he was done.  about 15 cars back..  What a
shame it was.  At the next light, he just looked strait ahead.  His friends
were yelling "NICE CAR"..  I just drop it in low and burned off another 500
miles off the tires and was gone.. :>  This is my last race..
>
>Aaron
>
>1972 442 W30
>Attachment Converted: C:\PROGRAMF\WILTEL\EUDORA\REFunnys
>

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:08:18 -0300
Subject: Re: castle nut clip for spinde with speedo drive?

At 09:41 AM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>    Hi all, I am inneed of some help. on my '70 88 I just replaced the
>spindle and rotor, and can't find out what kind of clip holds the castle
>nut on, parts stores around here are no help, they still can't get over the
>fact that ppl drive cars that old, everyonr keeps telling me to find the
>hole and put a cotter pin in it but there isn't one because of where the
>spedometer drive goes in, any help would be much appreciated,
>
>--
>__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__
 >  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
>================================================================= > > I'm
sorry I can't help you with your fastner problem, but it does bring up a
question.

What postwar years/models ran the speedo off the front wheel.

The Wiz is Concerned

------------------------------

From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:07:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

At 08:56 PM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 11:06 AM 4/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>
>>On Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:04:24 -0300 James William Townsend=20
>>=20
>>>One thing I was wondering about...Would natural gas cause more, or=20
>>>less,=20
>>>wear on the motor than gasoline?  Or would it make much difference?
>>>I didn't really consider that at the time.
>>>
>>>    Jim Townsend
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Its LP gas and it causes less wear as it is a cleaner fuel. Less acids
>>are formed  during combustion so that the acids do not attack the oil or
>>metal parts
>>
>>Scott Hensley
>>80 delta 88/455 rocket
>>
>>
>>
>Scott,
>
>This comes into the general world of semantics, but 'LP' =3D Liquid=
 PETROLEUM
>gas, hence it comes from oil wells!!!  Natural Gas, is NATURAL, and hence=
 it
>comes from gas wells.
>
>LP is the light ends of the petroleum hydrocarbons.  They are removed from
>the liquid in the refinery first, as they boil off at the lowest
>temperature.  They are liquified and stored as a liquid, until sold in that
>form, or reintroduced into gasoline in the winter to aid in winter=
 starting.
>
>Please explain how it is cleaner?
>
>As when you discuss natural gas, as it is full of all sorts of unsavory
>material as it comes from the well.  Gasoline is a very tight range of
>molecules, and is very clean after leaving the distilling tower.
>
>Some crude oil is sufficiently clean, that it has been used as fuel=
 directly
>from the well.  Both the Japanese navy (during WWII) and the Mexican
>National Railroad used crude as fuel.  The Royal navy had a big refinery at
>Abadan(sp), Iran, that was simply a toping plant, it removed the gasoline
>and all the balance was used as ships fuel, which was substanially crude.
>
>What these gases do when they are used as fuel, is that they don't 'wet'=
 the
>upper cylinder walls at startup which was a major promoter of engine wear.
>
>Also please expalin why it might produce less acid than either natural or=
 LP
>gas as used as a motor fuel.  A molecule of methan, butane or propane
>contains exactly the same ingrediants (in different proportions only) as=
 the
>heptane thru octane modlcules which is the normal constitutant parts of
>straight run gasoline.
>
>This is not to say that either LP or natural does not make a satisfactory
>motor fuel, but so does gasoline.  The gases are hard to store, harder to
>use than a liquid, and boil off when the vehicle is setting. =20
>
>Another 2=A2
>
>The Wiz
>
>
>Wiz,
     Boiler firing was the primary use of the crude you referenced to.

Jim Smith  =20
>
>

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:16:21 -0300
Subject: RE: 81 engine swap

At 03:59 PM 4/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Another closely-related question...I'm preparing to put an Olds 350 into an
>'84 Cutlass that currently has an Olds 307...It appears that most everything
>will match up (driveshaft, transmission, mounts, etc.). But I was wondering
>if the acessories like A/C, Alt. and power steering will bolt on. I'm also
>curious about headers. I'm trying to find a set that will work and haven't
>quite found anything suitable yet. A final question - I have a nicely built
>Ch*vy 350 sitting in the garage, but have opted to have an Olds 350 built
>for my Cutlass instead (I would like to keep this as high-quality, stock
>appearing project as possible)...Just for arguement's sake - what kind of
>work would have to be done to get a small block Chevy in there? Just curious,
>but I don't plan on doing it.
>
>Otherwise the car is excellent....A southern car with T-Tops and power
>everything....A great car to work with (the previous owner didn't baby it
like >I plan to) > >Thanks, > >Mike Twist > > Pull the 307, install the 350,
bolt on the original accessories (use the 350 carb) and away you go.  Also,
use all the 307 covers and the like, so that the 350 has the 307 decals, and
no one, and I mean no one will know what you did.

THIS IS AS IN EVERYTHING FITS.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: "C.R.F." <wizkid@inlink.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:17:47 -0300
Subject: Floor Mats

My 1984 Delta 88 still has the factory floor mats.  They are color keyed to
the carpet.

The Wiz

------------------------------

From: ASLY10A@prodigy.com (MR BOB M MASELLA)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 19:21:57 -0300
Subject: Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question

Where did you find the build sheet on your 70 cutlass?

------------------------------

From: h07@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 19:24:10 -0300
Subject: Re: 1975-80 Starfire Registry (was: OCA Chapter List ...)

There is also the H07 Registry for 1975-80 Starfires and
other H07 bodied cars.  The registry is not affiliated
with the OCA or any other club, but announcements have
appeared in JWO.  Interested owners can obtain a
registration form by sending a SASE to:

   The H07 Registry
   PO Box 2653
   Mission Viejo, CA  92690

For more information on H07's and the registry, please visit
   http://home.earthlink.net/~h07/reg/main.htm

------------------------------

From: h07@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 19:24:28 -0300
Subject: Re: 215 in Starfire (was: Aluminum Intake)

There is at least one 215 V8 Skyhawk in the H07 Registry
(see previous post).  It is a street car that also competes
in SCCA.  I've also heard of others planning this swap.

BTW, the Starfire and other H07's were built on the H-special
platform.

- - Mike V. , '79 Starfire GT

>          The 215 weighs 305 lbs wet.  I put it into a 71 Vega wagon.
>          The Vega engine that came out weighs 285 lbs, so handling
>          wasn't effected the way 500+ lbs of SB Ch*vy will.  Given
>          the Vega heritage of the 1975 and up (H-body) Olds Starfire,
>          I always thought the 215 in the Starfire would be a sweet
>          swap, especially with a 5-speed.

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 19:32:10 -0300
Subject: 70 olds ª's

These are the ª's on my 70 supreme. Can anyone clue me in on what they mean?
st  70-34257  BF  14385  body
TF  973  B80  25A Paint
06C 48424  930403

Thanks
Rick
70 supreme
70 conv.

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:20:42 -0300
Subject: Re: 12-bolt rear in a g-body

Barnacle Bill wrote:
>
> I was checking out the salvage yard that Rob Barry told me about and as I
> was checking out a G-body Cutlass I noticed an older Delta 88 parked next
> to it.  It had 12 bolt rear in it and just out of curiosity could this big
> differential fit under a G-body Cutlass?  I don't know what gears are in
> it though.
>
> If anyone else is interested in it let me know because the yard doesn't
> have a phone.
>
> My second question stems from finding a limited slip unit in an '88
> Cutlass Supreme Classic. I don't know what ratio is in these either but it
> had the posi tag on the diff.  I couldn't find the key to check the
> sticker in the trunk either.  I'm sure it's the 7.5" rear.  So it should
> swap easily into my diff.  My question is how difficult it is to remove
> the gears and limited slip carriers?  Could someone like myself pull it
> with limited knowledge and tools?  Also how long would this take? I'm not
> going to try to install these myself but want to have them for later.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Reilly
> '85 Cutlass Supreme
> wreilly@acad.bryant.edu
Dear Sir, I am intresred in a posi rearend for my 69 442. I now have a
3:91 posi and trying to swap for about a 3:31 posi. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: scotthensley@juno.com (Scott W Hensley)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 21:39:47 -0300
Subject: Re: interesting observations

On Fri, 11 Apr 1997 12:59:17 -0300 tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM writes:
>I changed my oil last weekend and noticed some interesting things.
>The old
>oil was Mobil 1 and had been in there about 8 months, less than 2000
>miles.
>After running Gunk (an engine cleaner) for 15 minutes in the old oil,
>then
>removing the old oil, I refilled with 5 qts of Castrol 10W-30.  Now my
>water temperature is about 5 degrees hotter (up to about 180 deg.) and
>the
>oil pressure drops to 40 psi after extended cruising.  The Mobil 1
>pressure
>never fell below 45 psi.  And at idle the oil pressure falls to around
>15-18 psi.,as opposed to around 20+ before.  None of this worries me,
>since
>these measurements are all comfortably within spec but I do find it
>interesting the difference the oil makes.
>
>Todd Morris
>71 442
>
>
>

This is a good example of the difference in a synthetic oil and a "regular"
oil. The extra heat is caused by the different lubricating properties of the
two oils. One of the oil's important jobs besides lubrication is to remove the
heat generated in the bearings.

Less Friction = Less Heat

You might try switching back to synthetic to see if the pressure goes
back up and the temperature comes back down. It should.

Synthetics may leak but they are a superior lubricant both in lubrication
and high temp viscosity performance. Thats why they charge 3 to 4 dollars
a quart.

Changing oil should not only depend on mileage. Time is also an important
factor. Oil and its additives deteriorates over time whether the engine is run
or not. The usual time interval is recommended by the engine manufacurer
and/or the oil manufacturer.

------------------------------

From: scotthensley@juno.com (Scott W Hensley)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 21:32:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Worst Loss?, best buy?

>This comes into the general world of semantics, but 'LP' =3D Liquid=
> PETROLEUM
>gas, hence it comes from oil wells!!!  Natural Gas, is NATURAL, and
>hence it
>comes from gas wells.
>
>LP is the light ends of the petroleum hydrocarbons.  They are removed
>from
>the liquid in the refinery first, as they boil off at the lowest
>temperature.  They are liquified and stored as a liquid, until sold in
>that
>form, or reintroduced into gasoline in the winter to aid in winter
>starting.
>
>Please explain how it is cleaner?
>
>As when you discuss natural gas, as it is full of all sorts of
>unsavory
>material as it comes from the well.  Gasoline is a very tight range of
>molecules, and is very clean after leaving the distilling tower.
>
>Some crude oil is sufficiently clean, that it has been used as fuel
>directly
>from the well.  Both the Japanese navy (during WWII) and the Mexican
>National Railroad used crude as fuel.  The Royal navy had a big
>refinery at
>Abadan(sp), Iran, that was simply a toping plant, it removed the
>gasoline
>and all the balance was used as ships fuel, which was substanially
>crude.
>
>What these gases do when they are used as fuel, is that they don't
>'wet' the
>upper cylinder walls at startup which was a major promoter of engine
>wear.
>
>Also please expalin why it might produce less acid than either natural
>or LP
>gas as used as a motor fuel.  A molecule of methane, butane or propane
>contains exactly the same ingredients (in different proportions only)
>as the
>heptane thrum octane molecules which is the normal constituting parts
>of
>straight run gasoline.
>
>This is not to say that either LP or natural does not make a
>satisfactory
>motor fuel, but so does gasoline.  The gases are hard to store, harder
>to
>use than a liquid, and boil off when the vehicle is setting. =20
>
>Another 2=A2
>
>The Wiz
>
>
 When then engine starts cold the combustion process is incomplete.
During this time when the combustion process is incomplete, a molecule
that has many carbon molecules has a much greater chance of partial
combustion creating an acid molecule that will dissolve into the oil. I
am not a chemistry major but, a lot of nasty things are created during
this time. The organic acids attack the silver, lead, and cadmium in the
bearings first. This is why motor oil contains corrosion inhibitors.

 Liquified Propane (LP) is a liquid under pressure in the tank but
instantly turns into a gas at atmospheric pressures. Propane gas does
not wash the oil off the cylinder walls. Any propane that is dissolved
into the oil is soon separated again. It is also a much cleaner burning
fuel source. The smaller molecule is easier to burn. This is why the
Federal Government is converting many of their vehicles to LP.

Gasoline being liquid must be vaporized before entering the cylinder.
Gasoline will, when the engine is cold or the choke left for extended
periods, wash the oil off the cylinder walls and dilute the oil. You can
use gasoline to wash oil and grease from auto parts if your feeling
lucky.

Natural gas cannot be liquified easily as it main component is ethane
(85%). It is an excellent fuel however the tank will not hold much fuel
as a compressed gas.

Also a tankful of LP will last much longer than a tankful of Gasoline if
you don't mind driving with a 300 lb bomb in the back of your vehicle.
It makes a PINTO look like a firecracker. There used to be a certain car
wash in Springfield, MO. until a pickup's LP tank exploded.

LP used to be a pretty common pickup fuel around these parts. They put a
LP tank in the bed. They left the Gasoline system connected and ran some
gasoline thru every so often to lubricate the valves. I don't recall what
all was involved to modify the vehicle.

You have less horsepower using LP, however the oil requires less frequent
changing and when disassemble the engine components will be extremely
clean with no carbon build up.

Ships use oil to generate steam. If they can pump or shovel it they can burn
it.

Some paraffin based crude oil is clean enough to burn in slow speed
diesel engine.However the water must be separated out first. Some freak
crudes can also be used as a lubricating oil straight out of the
ground..

Scott Hensley
80 delta 88/455 Rocket

------------------------------

From: Kabootski@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 19:44:51 -0300
Subject: Re: One more 1970 Cutlass question

The build sheet was already removed from its original location.  I have heard
you will find it either under the rear seat cushion or underneath the
carpeting for the driver's side seat.

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 14:28:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Cabin Feaver (sic)

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
>
> Remember to put that top back up during Tornado season.
> But spit yer chaw first.
>
> And, they're off!!!
>
Tim,

I want to thank you for your response to my help w/your cabin feaver.
In checking w/a doctor, he recommended hanging on until 15 August when
summer arrives.  Use this time to prepare for a fun trip to Lansing
later that month.  Don't remove chains from your trunk though as you may
be returning home in the midst of a winter storm.  They don't call those
2 weeks summer vacation for nothing.  That is summer.

Hopefully, my JetFire will help me blaze a trail back to the sunny
Southland at the end of my trip.  Here's hoping you will be taking a
Rocket w/you to Lansing.
Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 20:45:18 -0300
Subject: 81 cutlass

I just bought a 81 cutlass with a pretty nice body.  The motor is shot.  I
have a 1970 gold 350 and am planning on putting it in this car.  The car
currently has a v-6.  I know that the swap is possible.  I am wondering if I
will need to replace the drive shaft, I know I will need a new tranny also but
will the drive shaft be the right length.  also I would like to know what the
easiest way is to line up where the new motor mounts need to be placed.

Can anyone help me

just getting ready!!!!!
thanks
Doug

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 14:51:42 -0300
Subject: Re: 1967 442

Sixty7442@AOL.COM wrote: I'm not the biggest Olds buff here, but can
> it be swapped with another hood without the slats?
> Next, who agrees with me that a vinyl top totally ruins the look of the car?
> Hard top is the way to go! All for now.
>
> Brendan
> (looking for a 67)

The hood question has been answered in the affirmative - use regular
Cutlass hood from that year.  The vinyl top is quite a question.

 like the looks of both.  I have 2 vinyl roofed cars.  In the first case
involves my '62 Jetfire w/a top that was definitely influenced by the
look of a convertible.  It even has the rib shape in the quarters.  This
car was offered w/a vinyl top for the first time (1962) in a regular
production GM car.  In restoring my Jetfire I elected to put a vinyl
roof on it.  The car definitely looks like a convertible.  I like it
very much.

The second case, I have a '70 Buick GS 455.  It came w/a vinyl roof as
did a new one that I purchased just like it many years ago.  I argued
w/myself repeatedly - I never did win as I am very good at arguements -
as to whether it looked better w/or w/out the vinyl.  I finally decided
to keep it; not just because my original one had this feature, but
because there was a short era which encompassed this look.  That era is
gone.  This feature is part of American thinking of the time.  While
they look so sleek w/out it; they bring back nice memories w/it.

Another era related thing is the Easter colors of the fifties.  1954-58
cars need not be white or black; but 2-tones in bright pastel colors.
Don't paint one a single color.  The typical colors of the '50s cannot
be duplicated on cars of this or any other era.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Dan Bennett <dbennett@asu.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 21:42:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, Dan Bennett wrote:
>    The guy I bought it from has another, in a Tan color for
> > the same price at least he did a couple of weeks ago.  I can get a phone
> > number if anyones intrested.
>
> The '69 sport wheel is sort of unique. It looks something like the
> "deluxe" wheel from '68 or '69 with 3 spokes but has a fake wood rim. It
> is a 1-year only piece I believe. The '68 sport wheel has 3 brushed
> stainless spokes, while the '69 has a different spoke style and the hub is
> larger thanks to the '69 steering column being bigger to handle the
> ignition lock. Then in '70 they went with the 4-spoke style. Lots of
> choices, kind of confusing.  If those are actual '69 sport wheels being
> offered for $50 and not deluxe wheels, it's a good deal.
>
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada


Well, I'm not an expert but it is a three spoke wheel of brushed
stainless steel.  The wheel is tan in color and is made of a rubber
substance.  The wheel was is good shape, I just chose the Blue wheel
because of my interior color.  I had never seen a three spoke before and
only had seen a four spoke in pictures.  I put in on last week and fits
and looks great, especially after the faded, cracked wheel is replaced.
 The name and Phone ª of this guy is "Joe Esposito" and he can be
reached at 602-404-1805(Phoenix,Arizona).  He was selling many hard to
find Olds parts at a good price at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago,
with a friend.  They both were 442 owners.  Good Luck all.

Dan Bennett
'72 Cutlass Supreme

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª608
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