To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #677


oldsmobile-digest           Friday, 16 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 677

Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
Re: Driveline Vibration
Re: Overheating
68 toro
Re: NEED PULLEY
Want to buy . . .
oldsmobile-digest V1 ª675
Re: Engine swap
Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
Re: Overheating
Re: engine modifications
Re: Overheating
Re: Want to buy . . .
FS 70 Toro, Great Falls, MT
Re:Radios
Re:  Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
67' 442 rear end question 2????
Oldsmobile In Action Magazine For Sale (5/16)
Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
Summer storage for the Olds
Re: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
Re: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)
Overheating
68 toro
Re: engine modifications
Re: Overheating
Right Fender
RE: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
Re: NEED PULLEY
Re: 67' 442 rear end question 2????
Re: Overheating
Re: Car Craft Readers letters
Re[2]: Overheating
Re:68 toro
Parts for sale !
Re: Overheating
Re: Overheating
Goin' to Montana Soon (WAS Re: Overheating)
Re: Re[2]: Overheating
Please Repost 66 Cutlass Rear Bumper
Re: Goin' to Montana Soon (WAS Re: Overheating)
Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual
68
Re: Driveline Vibration
Re: Any 85 olds 442 owners?
Re: Overheating
Re: Overheating
Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:10:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

david wyatt wrote:
>
> Excuse me for being ignorant about the early F-85s, but don't they share
> the transaxle set-up used in the Tempest series?  I was under the
> impression that B-O-P all used the same parts in that body with the
> exception of engines.  If I am correct, you should be able to find a
> donor parts car at the very least.  There were quite a few Tempest 4
> speeds of that era running around when I was in high school.
>
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2

There is a difference.  Buick & Olds are alike except for the heads on
the engines & the availability of turbocharging on the '62-63 Olds.  the
Olds automatic was usually a 3-speed while the Buick's was a Powerglide
type.  Olds also got a floor shift automatic which Buick did not.

Pontiac used a trans-axle on their cars whether a V8 or 4.  The V8 was
identical to the Buicks & is much more rare than the 4.  I believe that
all V8's were either 3-speeds or a 2 speed automatic.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 00:23:01 -0300
Subject: Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

In a message dated 97-05-15 19:26:28 EDT, you write:

<< The yards:
 Crabtree's [W area] (1760 Fischer Rd, S. Beloit, IL 815-389-1505) says he
has 3
 to 4 '53 parts cars (conv, ht), a couple of '68, '69 fastbacks. Open til
around
 8pm.

 A&B [W area] (1664 Guetschow St, S. Beloit, IL 815-389-2326) say they have
lots
 of older stuff. Cutlass', Toros, maybe some Deltas. Open til 5pm?

 Schoonover Auto Salvage [NE area] (2175 Thomas Rd, Beloit, WI 608-362-1427)
says
 not a lot of old stuff. A few sheet metal pieces, maybe a 442 bumper. Open
til
 noon or 1pm. >>

OK, A&B is the place of choice for older parts.  They seem to be "removing"
older cars, and bringing new ones in (newer years, that is, ughh...).  On
some parts, he's decent on price, other, just so-so.  I have a good idea of
what's in the yard there (spend alot of time there....), so just let me know
what you may be looking for, and I'll tell you if I remember seeing it there.

Chris Ruper
CRuper1@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:28:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibration

Christian Fair wrote:
>
> Oldmopeople,
> I'm getting a weird vibration in what may be the driveline at about 50-65
> mph. Very disconcerting. I think it might be the driveshaft, tranny or a
> wheel out of balance.
>
> Do you have any advice about what order I should eliminate the candidates?
>
> I was thinking about rotating and balancing the wheels this weekend,
> then check the tranny, then the driveshaft
>
> Are there any other candidate parts which might generate unpleasant
> vibrations only between 50-65 mph? It seems to happen only when the
> motor is pushing the car, when I shift out of drive and let it coast
> at that speed, it goes intermittant on me.
>
> Ideas?
>
> TIA
> cf

Christian,

As one suggestion, consider the driveshaft.  The universals must be in
good condition.  Check to see that there is no slop at that point by
putting the car in park & rotating the driveshaft back & forth.  Replace
the sloppy ones.

Another is the driveshaft being rotated 180* from original installation
when some work had been done necessitating its removal.  Mark the shaft
& remove it at the rear universal so that it can be reinstalled 180*
from its present position.

Bill Culp
Decauur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 00:49:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      Well, not _over_ heating, but the '84 H/O is definitely running a bit
>      hot these last few days.  Here are the symptoms, I'm hoping someone
>      here has had a similar problem in the past.
>
>      Normally, it runs right at 180 (180 degree thermostat) sometimes going
>      to 190 or even courting 200 when it's getting a real workout (like
>      climbing a mountain pass).  Recently it has been leveling off at 180
>      (when the thermostat opens) but then slowly creeps up over time.
>      Idling seems to cause it to rise fastest, a leisurely cruise at 40mph
>      or so keeps it in check at about 190, and freeway speeds seem to leave
>      it unaffected (temp neither rises nor falls, but then again I haven't
>      spent more than 5 miles on the freeway recently).  The cooling system
>      was flushed last fall, currently running 50/50 dexcool/distilled water
>      with watter wetter.  The radiator is a 1 1/2 yr old Modine 3-row,
>      which looks almost brand new on the inside.  No water in the oil or
>      oil in the water that I can tell.  Coolant level is fine and it hasn't
>      been consuming coolant.
>
>      I'm thinking it could be three things, I hope someone can narrow it
>      down, or suggest a fourth.  I just got laid off last Friday (anyone
>      wanna hire a Novell CNE?), so I don't want to make any expensive
>      mistakes:
>
>      1) Thermostat.  Cheap and easy to replace, but I've never heard of one
>      doing something like this.  I've had them just stop working before,
>      but never only partially open.
>
>      2) Fan clutch.  I don't see any silicone leakage around the fan
>      clutch, and when the engine is shut off warm and I give the fan a good
>      spin by hand it doesn't freewheel more than 1/4 turn or so.  The guy
>      at the radiator shop said to do that and if it spun more than 1 1/2
>      times it was bad.
>
>      3) Water pump.  There is no leakage out of the weep holes that are
>      supposed to leak when the seals go, but there are some corrosion
>      "tracks" as evidence that something has leaked out of there in the
>      past.  No noise coming from that area that would indicate bad bearings
>      either.
>
>      Thanks in advance!  I hope I can get this licked within a week,
>      supposed to be taking a trip to Montana, land of scared sheep and no
>      speed limits.
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com
Check for vacuum leaks, any extra air will lean out your air/fuel
mixture causing it to run hotter.  Ignition timing can also effect temp.
If it is octane knocking on acceleration more than normal,or if it never
did before.  Its weird but I've had my timing just move out of the clear
blue before.  poor quality gasoline will also run hotter-exploding
rather than burning- creating octane knock. these are the typical
problems I've had in the past, maybe thats whats wrong, maybe not.
Good luck!!!
Marty
68 442

------------------------------

From: JNelson751@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 00:48:45 -0300
Subject: 68 toro

there's a guy in town(davenport,ia) who is going to part out a 68 toro in a
couple
days, if somebody needs something in particular let me know,i'll check on it
(sorry, the motor is mine)
  jeff
69 442 conv

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 00:54:06 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

At 12:57 PM 5/15/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm interested if it's of a 71 98
>

Yes it's off a 455 of a 70 but the part numbers are the same.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Chuck Rowe <badgeman@tcac.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 01:10:52 -0300
Subject: Want to buy . . .

Hi, ya'll. I am looking to purchase a 10-bolt Positraction rear end. I
intend to use it in an '85 El Camino. If you have one for sale, please email
me. I am also looking for a pedal assembly for the EC. Hope to hear from
someone very soon.

------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 01:16:02 -0300
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª675

OL><<< This message is part 4 of a previous message >>>

OL>From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
OL>Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 09:38:19 -0300
OL>Subject: Re: '78 Olds 88, misfiring.

OL>mjones@dragon.gleep.com wrote:
OL>>
OL>> Lately I've been having problems with my '78 Olds 88 with the 350R
OL>> engine.  It's misfiring but I can't tell which cylinder it is.  I have
OL>> put a new plug wire on the ª3 cylinder (bad wire), I've cleaned and
OL>> regapped the plugs, checked the cap and rotor (new in December when the
OL>> edelbrock intake went on), checked the vacuum lines, checked the plug
OL>>

[snip]

OL>> Mike Jones
OL>> '78 Olds 88, misfiring & exhaust leak

OL>Mike, check a few things here,

OL>You could check the wires for resistance, but as cheap as they are, it
OL>may be wise to invest in a complete set and a maybe a new cap/rotor if
OL>it wasn't a quality cap/rotor. I've tried cheap store brand cap/rotors
OL>and they carbon arced like a big dog only after a short time.  I will
OL>assume you are using a quality piece, so you may just need to check
OL>inside for carbon lines.

I don't have an Ohmmeter so I can't check them, but I got some new ACCEL
wires I have to make for it.  I just put a new plug on ª3, still
missing.  The cap was a 'Blue Streak' brand, I believe I'll go with an
ACCEL cap next time.istributor, I believe you have the vacuum operated HEI



OL>which then you could check the vacuum canister for operation.  Hook a
OL>vacuum source to it when the engine is running and with your timing
OL>light in operation, see if timing changes when vacuum on and off. (or
OL>raise engine speed a bit if you have ported vacuum, keep an eye on the
OL>timing and have someone disconnect it to see if timing changes.  It also
OL>could be a bad control module in the distributor itself.  I've seen this
OL>before where sometimes they start misfiring before it finally just flat
OL>quits.  They seem to only go out completely only when you are on a dark,
OL>deserted area, 100 miles from nowhere, though.

I'll check the module.

OL>Recheck the torque on the intake bolts, the carb bolts, and (I believe
OL>the small Olds Edelbrock has the EGR) the EGR bolts.  Aluminum has a
OL>different expansion rate than steel or cast iron, sometimes the bolts
OL>work loose, and this could be causing a vacuum leak/leanout condition.
OL>About the EGR- If the EGR valve is stuck open, diaphragm busted, control

I tightened all the bolts, re-did some today.

OL>vacuum is on all the time, or at the wrong time, this could cause a
OL>problem similar to what you described. Try disconnecting and plugging
OL>the EGR vacuum signal, and see how it reacts.
OL>And try to get that darn exhaust leak fixed.  I know it's a pain, but

EGR valve is brand new.

OL>that can cause a slight leaning of that bank, which could cause you some
OL>problems.

The earliest I can fix it is anywhere from 2-4 weeks, I don't have much
time with finals coming up.

OL>Good luck.  I'm sure other people on the list will have many more

Thank you a lot, you've given me the drive to keep on working on it.
It's getting to be a pain in the ass.

ALSO: when I'm driving down the road and I take my foot off the
accelerator, I get a medium-high pitched "whistle" of some sort.
Does it at idle sometimes.

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 01:08:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine swap

At 11:46 AM 5/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Please don't hate me for this, I have a 72 'S' hardtop and plan on
>swaping the 350 for a 406 chevy...The reason for this is because the
>406 was free from my brother...I have built the engine strong and plan
>on stomping plenty of fords...My question is how will the engine bolt
>up to the stock olds frame mounts?  Will I have to move the mounts or
>find new ones???  What else will need to be changed??

You'll need the frame mounts for a '68-'72 V-8 Chevelle or Malibu (A-body,
same chassis as the Cutlass), plus the motor mounts for the small-block cars
from those years. Plus you'll need a transmission with a Ch*vy bolt pattern,
and perhaps adjust your driveshaft if you use a longer or shorter tranny.
Then you might also have to relocate your transmission crossmember, which
may require reworking your parking-brake cables, and switch over the
kickdown linkage/switch if the tranny you use has a different configuration.

Of course, the exhaust headpipes (or headers) and their connection to the
rest of the exhaust will be completely different, and you'll have to rewire
the engine compartment for the different locations of the starter and
alternator, if applicable. New radiator hoses, of course, and perhaps a
different fan shroud. You might also need the throttle linkage from a Ch*vy
as well.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@starnetinc.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 01:35:46 -0300
Subject: Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

Hello Dan, if the weather is nice it would'nt surprise me if we had 70
or better cars this year, wish i were driving up in the 61' but it's in
the shop this week<bummer> So that means the truck will get me there, at
least i'll be traveling with a 64'Cutlass convt.,a 65' 442, a 64 jetstar
1 and a 67' 442, Nice company!!

Michael Brady
IVOC-NAOC-IVOC-Starfire/Jetstar1 chapter

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 00:21:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      Well, not _over_ heating, but the '84 H/O is definitely running a bit
>      hot these last few days.  Here are the symptoms, I'm hoping someone
>      here has had a similar problem in the past.
>
>      Normally, it runs right at 180 (180 degree thermostat) sometimes going
>      to 190 or even courting 200 when it's getting a real workout (like
>      climbing a mountain pass).  Recently it has been leveling off at 180
>      (when the thermostat opens) but then slowly creeps up over time.
>      Idling seems to cause it to rise fastest, a leisurely cruise at 40mph
>      or so keeps it in check at about 190, and freeway speeds seem to leave
>      it unaffected (temp neither rises nor falls, but then again I haven't
>      spent more than 5 miles on the freeway recently).  The cooling system
>      was flushed last fall, currently running 50/50 dexcool/distilled water
>      with watter wetter.  The radiator is a 1 1/2 yr old Modine 3-row,
>      which looks almost brand new on the inside.  No water in the oil or
>      oil in the water that I can tell.  Coolant level is fine and it hasn't
>      been consuming coolant.
>
>      I'm thinking it could be three things, I hope someone can narrow it
>      down, or suggest a fourth.  I just got laid off last Friday (anyone
>      wanna hire a Novell CNE?), so I don't want to make any expensive
>      mistakes:
>
>      1) Thermostat.  Cheap and easy to replace, but I've never heard of one
>      doing something like this.  I've had them just stop working before,
>      but never only partially open.
>
>      2) Fan clutch.  I don't see any silicone leakage around the fan
>      clutch, and when the engine is shut off warm and I give the fan a good
>      spin by hand it doesn't freewheel more than 1/4 turn or so.  The guy
>      at the radiator shop said to do that and if it spun more than 1 1/2
>      times it was bad.
>
>      3) Water pump.  There is no leakage out of the weep holes that are
>      supposed to leak when the seals go, but there are some corrosion
>      "tracks" as evidence that something has leaked out of there in the
>      past.  No noise coming from that area that would indicate bad bearings
>      either.
>
>      Thanks in advance!  I hope I can get this licked within a week,
>      supposed to be taking a trip to Montana, land of scared sheep and no
>      speed limits.
>
>      Tom Lentz
>      tlentz@teknon.com


I'll take bets that the thermostat is sticking open.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: "Robert J. Barry" <rbarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 01:31:45 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

At 07:52 PM 5/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>corey wrote:
>> Who makes a good 455 camshaft.  I have seen some Sealed Power grinds that
>> are pretty good.  Any recommendations

People here have recommended the Mondello 20-22 camshaft, which has about
.496"/.512" lift. (or is that his 18-20 cam? Whatever the case, the lift is
mild enough to not require cutting down the valve guide for valvetrain
clearance.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 02:16:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

At 12:21 AM 5/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Tom Lentz wrote:
>>
>>      Well, not _over_ heating, but the '84 H/O is definitely running a bit
>>      hot these last few days.  Here are the symptoms, I'm hoping someone
>>      here has had a similar problem in the past.
>>

>
>I'll take bets that the thermostat is sticking open.
>

Uh, I'd hang on to your money for a while...  Open?  My thoughts are to
first do a complete visual (which I'm sure you have) to make sure the
airflow through the radiator is sufficient.  Ya know, dig the grass and bugs
and birds and children out of the condensor...  ;)  Is the shroud in good
shape, and present?  The fan clutch sounds like it's probably fine, but it's
hard to say.  Can you tell if and when it's engaging?  (You should hear the
fan roar when it does)  How big of a fan do you have?  You might try a seven
blade?  The water pump could well be a problem.  It's hard to say what the
corrosion/water marks are from, but it can affect things quite a bit.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the air conditioning will make things
run noticably warmer.  (All that heat in the condensor)  Did it run this way
last summer?

I remember ~one~ spring when the Rocket started overheating, I cured it by
pulling the radiator/shroud mount off, and pulling out the huge piece of
cardboard I'd shoved between the radiator and condensor sometime that
winter:)  Ya know, at 40 below and 60 mph, it's pretty tough to keep things
warm under there!

I'd go on the theory that if all else fails, change the pump.  While you're
there, get the Tstat, as well, cuz it's only a couple bucks, and that would
be the time to do it.  Both items can never hurt to have new.  Maybe while
you're there, switch to a 160' job, (and then order that power chip you've
been itchin' for)  :)


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 02:16:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Want to buy . . .

At 01:10 AM 5/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi, ya'll. I am looking to purchase a 10-bolt Positraction rear end. I
>intend to use it in an '85 El Camino. If you have one for sale, please email
>me. I am also looking for a pedal assembly for the EC. Hope to hear from
>someone very soon.


Cool, you're going to graft the front end of an '83 Cutlass on there,
~right~?  :) (and mold in the taillights, and swap interiors, etc.  The dash
will bolt right in  ;)

Someone on the net has pics of an El.C. done this way, except with a GNX.
Friggin' cool!


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 03:24:10 -0300
Subject: FS 70 Toro, Great Falls, MT

     The Great Falls paper has a '70 Toro, 455 $1250, That's about all I
know of it.  A friend called me to tell me about it.  Great Falls is about
110 miles from me.

Scott, ya want to be infected???  That's what, 200 from ZooTown?

I told the friend that I've already got three more Toros than I really
should have, so there's no ~way~ I could talk myself into another one!  (at
least not for more than $100!)  Although those 400 ponies and 510 ft.lbs.
sure do seem to have some sway in my thoughts.  No, dammit, I ~gotta~ fight
this infection!  It can't spread anymore...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 07:27:27 -0300
Subject: Re:Radios

Dan Williams was wondering on wonderbars:

> radio and it worked.  I was 2 for 2.  Then, I hooked up the wonderbar
> radio that I wanted to use for my 68 convertible.  It didn't work.  No
> sound at all.  Sometimes the speaker will thump when I turn it on,
> sometimes it won't. I did get the wonderbar to work.  Those things are
> really cool when they seek.  Anyway, when I let the wonderbar tune to a
> station and I crank the volume all the way up, I can actually hear the
> station comming out of the radio (not the speaker - It is 15 feet
> away).  That seemed pretty strange.  Does anybody have any pointers on

Without any knowledge on the colours of the wires coming out of Your
radio
I would say that the "sound" You can hear is the output transformer. I'm
almost sure on this.
There might be a bad connection causing this. If there would be a short,
You could hear no sound at all (from the transformer).

Some advice for You when testing these oldies:
- - always use some kind of current limiter on Your power supply. The 3amp
  power supply can actually output 10 amps for a short moment. The best
  solution would be a supply with adjustable current limiter. A FAST
  fuse will not give full protection but it is better than nothing.

- - never use a battery charger as their output voltage is not stabilized
  and can go way too high.

- - to use a car battery WITH battery charger is not a bad idea. Just
remember
  the current limiter !

- - put a current meter in series with the power supply so that You get
  early warning when the radio is "going crazy"

- - never "just try" the wires. You can get Your output stage fried in
  no time. (Actually some milliseconds are enough for these).

- - the old radios had germanium transistors that are very temperature
  sensitive. You must take some precautions when soldering these
animals.
  (Use nose-pliers to stop heat going into the transistor).

- - NEVER try to adjust ANY trimmers and/or capacitors inside the radio
  unless You are absolutely sure on what You are doing.

- - Most electrolytic capacitors loose their properties if not used over a
long
  time period. Fortunately these are easy to find and replace. The
hardest
  ones can be found on those tube-radios that have voltages in excess of
  100...200 Volts. Don't put Your fingers in there when these ladies are
  operating.

- - don't use a plain speaker when You test a radio. Although some radios
  "go crazy" if they are operated without the speaker, they are rare and
  this almost never does harm for the radio. Buy a 47 ohm / 5W resistor
  and put that  in series with the speaker. You don't get a loud sound
but
  You won't barbeque Your output stage either.

- - be QUICK and CAREFUL when soldering the old fashioned brownish
PC-boards.
  The thin copper stripes come loose very easily.

- - don't blow inside the radio. The dirt will go in places where it is
impossible
  to get out. Instead use vacuum cleaner equipped with a small diameter
hose.

- - there is NO guarantee that solvents won't solve something valuable
along
  with the dirt. If the dirt didn't disturb the radio and could not be
  sucked away, let it be there.

- - don't put crease in the potentiometers. To clean a "noisy"
potentiometer
  put some "dry" solvent (isoprophanol) inside it and give it a few
twists.
  If this procedure does not help (repeat 2..3 times) then You have a
bad
  potentiometer. Usually these can be replaced. But in some cases the
only
  way is to "rebuild" the potentiometer using contents of some other
  potentiometer.

- - ask me. I try to help.

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 07:37:00 -0300
Subject: Re:  Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

Well, I have a 98 with a 5 volume manual !

COuld not resist =O)

- --
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

From: Markintime@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 08:27:48 -0300
Subject: 67' 442 rear end question 2????

Will the rear end from a 68 to 72 old's fit under my 67' 442?
I'm told they are different widths, true or false?
Markintime@aol.com
67' 442

------------------------------

From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 08:39:22 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile In Action Magazine For Sale (5/16)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

Oldsmobile In Action Magazine, volume 1.  A 56 page magazine from
Petersen Publishing with no advertising and only articles about
Oldsmobiles.  Many photographs, including six pages in full color.
Published in 1984, this magazine has a color =8C84 Hurst/Olds photograph
on the front cover.  Articles include Performance History, parts 1 and
2, =B3America=B9s Latest V8 - The DRCE=B2, the small-block tech guide for t=
he
260, 307, 330, 350 and 403 engines, and =B3Exotic Rockets=B2 which details
some of Oldsmobile=B9s experimental engines from the preformance years.
Excellent condition.  $18.00, including shipping to any address in North
America.  (5/16/97)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          =3D=3D=3D
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D | | | =3D Tom Stoner =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D+
|        | | |   OCA ª3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         =3D=3D=3D    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D+

------------------------------

From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:01:08 -0300
Subject: Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

I should be at the show, I have a 75 Hurst/Olds, black W-25 with license
plates that say  DUKES 75

Hope to meet you all!!
Jeffrey Fieldsend
Member:
OCA
H/OCA
OCC- Oldsmoblie Cutlass Coupes 73-77

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:40:08 -0300
Subject: Summer storage for the Olds

Well, it looks like I am probably going to buy that Corvette I always =
wanted, for a summer car anyway. I have finished all my research, and I =
have decided I can afford it (a used one anyay). So, the olds is going =
to be my winter car. Before anyone gets upset, believe me, it is going =
to be very pampered winter car. Question, what should I do to it before =
I take it off the road for the summer? I am garaging it at my primary =
residence, but is there anything I should do to it first?  I take it =
summer storage is less painful than winter storage. Thanks, Joanne

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:30:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

          Greg,

          I know what you mean.  I will always remember selling my
          first 442 (a 68) due to impending marriage (the first).  I
          had rescued the car from a wrecking yard (for $100) and had
          spend over two years restoring it (my first such project).
          I had made a lot of mistakes, and the fiberglass I had used
          to patch the rust holes (did I mention I was young and
          ignorant at the time) was starting to show bubbles, but it
          was extremely difficult to watch someone else drive away in
          the car.  Come to think of it, that was the only Olds I've
          ever sold; two got parted out, one went away in the divorce,
          and I still have all the rest.  Well, I _did_ sell my first
          car also, a 68 Vista Cruiser, but that one went to a friend,
          so the car was still around for quite some time after.  It
          didn't seem like the car was really sold (just had someone
          else to pay the repair bills).  I definitely had regrets
          when the 442 drove off, however.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 10:49:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

> hard to say goodbye. So long, babe. The Cutlass and I will miss you.

And a moment of silence, of course......

****

And you sent it to a good home, to boot.  Ya did good, kid.

8)
peg
(who still hasn't broken up with any of her cars, but then again, they're
all Olds)  :)

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:52:42 -0300
Subject: Re: IVOC State Line Olds Dust-off (Saturday 4/17)

OL>OK, A&B is the place of choice for older parts.  They seem to be "removing"
OL>older cars, and bringing new ones in (newer years, that is, ughh...).  On
OL>some parts, he's decent on price, other, just so-so.  I have a good idea of
OL>what's in the yard there (spend alot of time there....), so just let me
know OL>what you may be looking for, and I'll tell you if I remember seeing it
there

OL>Chris Ruper
OL>CRuper1@aol.com

Any full size '65 Olds or around that year?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:49:50 -0300
Subject: Overheating

OL>     2) Fan clutch.  I don't see any silicone leakage around the fan
OL>     clutch, and when the engine is shut off warm and I give the fan a good
OL>     spin by hand it doesn't freewheel more than 1/4 turn or so.  The guy
OL>     at the radiator shop said to do that and if it spun more than 1 1/2
OL>     times it was bad.

OL>     Tom Lentz
OL>     tlentz@teknon.com

Since the higher temps happen at lower driving speeds I would think it's
the fan clutch. I've had them go bad with no leaking. When your engine
is completely cooled off open the hood start the car. Watch the temp
gauge once it gets up to temp or a little over the clutch should start
engaging off and on which will cause a lot of air to blow across the
engine. This will be very noticeable with the hood open. Something else
you can do to test the clutch but you shouldn't do. With the engine up
to temp and idling. Take a cardboard toilet paper tube or anything
sturdy but not very stiff (?). And very slowly lower into the edge of
the fan blade if the blade slows or stops the clutch is bad. Like I said
this is something you shouldn't do but it is the best way to tell if the
clutch is good or not.You can also rev. it up to your normal cruising
rpm to see If it gets hotter than when you are driving at those rpms. If
it gets hotter then it is a problem with air flow through the engine
compartment.

Did my repost for writing manufactures/ magazines make it to the list?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:56:52 -0300
Subject: 68 toro

OL>there's a guy in town(davenport,ia) who is going to part out a 68 toro in a
OL>couple
OL>days, if somebody needs something in particular let me know,i'll check on
it OL>(sorry, the motor is mine) OL>  jeff OL>69 442 conv

I live in Davenport. Would it be possible for me to go look at it?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:15:32 -0300
Subject: Re: engine modifications

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@FastLane.NET>

>Should I change the engine into a W-30 or should I leave it alone? I
>don't know if the engine in my car now has matching 's.

> RS
>'70 442 4-speed

As a fellow '70 442 4-Speed owner, I'd say leave it as is.  Being a stick
car its already got some hi-perf stuff that the auto 442 doesnt have.

What trans/rear axle combo do you have?

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442 4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 10:41:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> At 12:21 AM 5/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Tom Lentz wrote:
> >>
> >>      Well, not _over_ heating, but the '84 H/O is definitely running a
bit > >>      hot these last few days.  Here are the symptoms, I'm hoping
someone > >>      here has had a similar problem in the past. > >> > > > >
>I'll take bets that the thermostat is sticking open. > > > > Uh, I'd hang on
to your money for a while...  Open?  My thoughts are to > first do a complete
visual (which I'm sure you have) to make sure the > airflow through the
radiator is sufficient.  Ya know, dig the grass and bugs > and birds and
children out of the condensor...  ;)  Is the shroud in good > shape, and
present?  The fan clutch sounds like it's probably fine, but it's > hard to
say.  Can you tell if and when it's engaging?  (You should hear the > fan roar
when it does)  How big of a fan do you have?  You might try a seven > blade?
The water pump could well be a problem.  It's hard to say what the >
corrosion/water marks are from, but it can affect things quite a bit. > >
Another thing to keep in mind is that the air conditioning will make things >
run noticably warmer.  (All that heat in the condensor)  Did it run this way >
last summer? > > I remember ~one~ spring when the Rocket started overheating,
I cured it by > pulling the radiator/shroud mount off, and pulling out the
huge piece of > cardboard I'd shoved between the radiator and condensor
sometime that > winter:)  Ya know, at 40 below and 60 mph, it's pretty tough
to keep things > warm under there! > > I'd go on the theory that if all else
fails, change the pump.  While you're > there, get the Tstat, as well, cuz
it's only a couple bucks, and that would > be the time to do it.  Both items
can never hurt to have new.  Maybe while > you're there, switch to a 160' job,
(and then order that power chip you've > been itchin' for)  :) > > >
Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu >              500 4th
Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com >              Box 1255
| Montana State University-Northern >              Havre, Montana 59501  |
http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner >              "Rockit 1"            | '81
Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~ >              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS
455 >              "FAST FWD" (Soon)     | '67 Toronado 425 >
Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!


Yes, OPEN, if the thermostat hangs open after warming up, the water will
passs through the radiator too quickly to cool down. I have seen this
mean times.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: hot69w30@webtv.net (david harmon)
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:50:05 -0300
Subject: Right Fender

I need a right fender for a 69 cutlass. Little or no rust. I can put in
a patch if needed but no crash damage. The one i have has been hit and
repaired with filler. This is the only bad part on the car and i cann't
finish without it. If you know of one please send email.

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:52:55 -0300
Subject: RE: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

Well here is my sad story of my first 442. See it on my home page at:
http://home1.gte.net/betzel/be.html if you want.

I brought it in 1969 at a dealer in a small town west of Augusta, Ga. The =
dealer in Augusta would not order "such a fast car". I took the car to =
Germany and had a lot of fun with the German cars on the Autobahn. I also =
did the drag strip thing there also. I was getting ready to return to the =
states in 74 so I sold the car to a friend in the same unit. I wanted to =
order a 74 98 though the PX. He had the car for about 30 day days before =
I left. I guess that was the sad part. I seen the car go from a spotless =
example of one of the best cars Olds has produced, to... I dont know the =
words to describe it. The 442 had white interior and was always keep =
clean. He broke the key in the trunk so he took a screwdriver and tore =
out the lock to get it open. To see a car that was treated like a member =
of the household go through this treatment was hard fro both my wife and =
I.

However the pain did not end there. I came back to Augusta and within a =
year the guy I sold it to returned also. He was from Augusta also. He =
looked me up and came by with the car. I could not believe how bad the =
car looked. I dont think he ever washed the car. It ran so bad and needed =
so much work it was really sad. He sold the car to someone in Texas so I =
dont know where it is now. I have been looking for the VIN to try and =
trace it down, but no luck yet.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the ....Past

__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Fri, May 16, 1997 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

          Greg,

          I know what you mean.  I will always remember selling my
          first 442 (a 68) due to impending marriage (the first).  I
          had rescued the car from a wrecking yard (for $100) and had
          spend over two years restoring it (my first such project).
          I had made a lot of mistakes, and the fiberglass I had used
          to patch the rust holes (did I mention I was young and
          ignorant at the time) was starting to show bubbles, but it
          was extremely difficult to watch someone else drive away in
          the car.  Come to think of it, that was the only Olds I've
          ever sold; two got parted out, one went away in the divorce,
          and I still have all the rest.  Well, I _did_ sell my first
          car also, a 68 Vista Cruiser, but that one went to a friend,
          so the car was still around for quite some time after.  It
          didn't seem like the car was really sold (just had someone
          else to pay the repair bills).  I definitely had regrets
          when the 442 drove off, however.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30



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Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:30:34 -0300
From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Reply-to: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Message-id: <9704168638.AA863800208@hqgate.orbital.com>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Precedence: bulk

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 13:35:41 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

Great, what do I need to do, send you a money order or do you take credit
credit cards?
Whats your address?
Rick

------------------------------

From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 13:32:36 -0300
Subject: Re: 67' 442 rear end question 2????

At 08:27 AM 5/16/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Will the rear end from a 68 to 72 old's fit under my 67' 442?
>I'm told they are different widths, true or false?
>Markintime@aol.com
>67' 442
>
>
  It will fit, but it is approximately 1/4 in. longer than your '67's.
Check the Olds FAQ for exact specifications.  Also, you may have to weld
coil and shock mounts to the housing.  This I am not sure about, but my
uncle had to when he put a '70 Olds 12 bolt in his '66 GTO.  The '66 and '67
are interchangeable as I put a '66 F85 rear in a '67 442 with no problem.
Later.

  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

From: kozhill@titanlink.com (Jo-Anne Hillier)
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 13:58:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

I just changed my rad because of leaks not over heating. After I ran it for
a while it over heated very simular to this topic. I couldn't believe it
because it never over heated with half the water out of it. I changed the
thermostat and problem solved. And the old thermostat was only 6 mon. old.
My 92 grand prix was the very same. Always change the thermostat first,
even if it is new.
Scott
kozhill@titanlink.com

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 10:27:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Car Craft Readers letters

I think that tis is an awesome IDEA...I subscribe to both and they
say that they like all types of cars but I agree that they only show
Ch*vy or F**rd...I will be part of this let me know what to do and
when.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 06:26:54 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Overheating

     Since the car is computer controlled, wouldn't the computer either
     give me a lean error or richen the mixture to compensate?  I did just
     put in a new O2 sensor about a month ago, and this is the first really
     hot week since then.  I wonder if it could be bad and is causing it to
     run lean?

     For those who asked, no I'm not running the A/C.  Oddly enough though,
     when I do run the A/C, it doesn't run much hotter (always has run 5
     degrees or so warmer with the A/C on, I consider that normal).

     No spark knock, but I'll check the timing today.  I thought that
     retarded timing generally caused engines to run hotter, or am I
     backwards?

     Tom

     P.S. Chaning ISP's today, so please address any e-mail replies to
     tlentz@ior.com


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Overheating Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    5/15/97 10:04 PM

Check for vacuum leaks, any extra air will lean out your air/fuel
mixture causing it to run hotter.  Ignition timing can also effect temp.
If it is octane knocking on acceleration more than normal,or if it never
did before.  Its weird but I've had my timing just move out of the clear
blue before.  poor quality gasoline will also run hotter-exploding
rather than burning- creating octane knock. these are the typical
problems I've had in the past, maybe thats whats wrong, maybe not.
Good luck!!!
Marty
68 442


------------------------------

From: JNelson751@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 14:40:58 -0300
Subject: Re:68 toro

daren @qconline
daren , jerry has the car at 1125 pershing, phone is 322-6143
i tried to mail you dirctly but it got messed up.

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:10:58 -0300
Subject: Parts for sale !

Now located at the web site below is a "parts for sale" page, being an
"80's" Cutlass person I don't know much about them, but, a guy I met at
a show/swap meet seemed to have some stuff I thought you "older" Olds
guys could use. Since it doesn't cost anything but a little typing, I
figured we'd host him a page on our system. Hope it helps somebody !

good luck !

- --

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/30/97)

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:14:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

On Thu, 15 May 1997, Tom Lentz wrote:

>      Thanks in advance!  I hope I can get this licked within a week,
>      supposed to be taking a trip to Montana, land of scared sheep and no
>      speed limits.
>

where in Montana are you going?

BTW  the speed limit is "reasonable and prudent" in the daytime  I got a
ticket for 90mph on a corner (wide corner)  but that is the only daytime
ticket I've gotten since they eliminated the 55  (I usualy drive 85-90)

night time tickets are a completely different story I think I've gotten 4
anyway the night limit is 55 on most highways, 65 on the interstate

another ~warning~ they just doubled the fine for speeding in a "work area"
through road construction

oh...dont forget to bring some velcro gloves!!!!

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:32:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

On Fri, 16 May 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:

> The fan clutch sounds like it's probably fine, but it's
> hard to say.  Can you tell if and when it's engaging?  (You should hear the
> fan roar when it does)
had trouble with the fan clutch on my GMC  it had worked ok with the 305
but when I dumped in a new 350 it would overheat in just a couple minutes
the fan looked like it was turning up to speed  but....

>
> I'd go on the theory that if all else fails, change the pump.  While you're
> there, get the Tstat, as well, cuz it's only a couple bucks, and that would
> be the time to do it.  Both items can never hurt to have new.  Maybe while
> you're there, switch to a 160' job, (and then order that power chip you've
> been itchin' for)  :)
>

reminds me of a cartoon I saw a few years ago

guy has his engine on a stand, parts scattered across the garage...

he says to his freind "at first I was just gonna change the spark
plugs......"

Dustin

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 15:30:23 -0300
Subject: Goin' to Montana Soon (WAS Re: Overheating)

> >      Thanks in advance!  I hope I can get this licked within a week,
> >      supposed to be taking a trip to Montana, land of scared sheep and no
> >      speed limits.
> >
>
> where in Montana are you going?
>
> BTW  the speed limit is "reasonable and prudent" in the daytime  I got a
> ticket for 90mph on a corner (wide corner)  but that is the only daytime
> ticket I've gotten since they eliminated the 55  (I usualy drive 85-90)

GREAT article in the current (June?  July?? They go by a different calendar)
Car & Driver on speed limits in the Big Sky state... one of the gists of the
article seems to be that the only folks who think there's no speed limit are
out-of-staters who come for the sole purpose of crankin' their cars up to
top speed... and nailin' Mule Deer.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 06:24:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Overheating

>
>     Since the car is computer controlled, wouldn't the computer either
>     give me a lean error or richen the mixture to compensate?  I did just
>     put in a new O2 sensor about a month ago, and this is the first really
>     hot week since then.  I wonder if it could be bad and is causing it to
>     run lean?
For that matter make sure it's plugged in correctly and there's no dirty
connections to it.  That would be a cheap and easy thing to test first.  I
don't know if the O2 sensor would cause the overheating problem though.

Has anyone suggested to check that the radiator hoses aren't sucking shut
when you rev the motor?  That's been known to cause an overheating problem.

good luck

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Jim & Tina R." <rabid@cybrzn.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 16:26:54 -0300
Subject: Please Repost 66 Cutlass Rear Bumper

My apologies to all that responded with info on where I could find a 66 =
Cutlass rear bumper for a friend of mine. I forwarded all info to him =
and erased mine after a few days. It seems he lost his mail program and =
all it's contents. Could you please send/repost any info you have about =
where he might be able to obtain one. Thank you to all and my apologies =
once again.

Jim Rabideau
rabid@cybrzn.com
70 W30

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 16:31:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Goin' to Montana Soon (WAS Re: Overheating)

On Fri, 16 May 1997, Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

>
> GREAT article in the current (June?  July?? They go by a different calendar)
> Car & Driver on speed limits in the Big Sky state... one of the gists of the
> article seems to be that the only folks who think there's no speed limit are
> out-of-staters who come for the sole purpose of crankin' their cars up to
> top speed... and nailin' Mule Deer.
>

forgot to mention that the highway patrols now hang out on the edges of
towns (where there are posted limits)  since it is tougher to prove
someone was going an  ~unreasonable~ speed     I've never beaten a
"speeding" ticket (usualy dont try)    the fines arent too steep (usualy)
but they are tough on the insurance.....

Dustin

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 17:38:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Wanted: 61-62 Olds F-85 with a 4 speed manual

Hi Neal
  Read your request and said to myself goodluck. Then I picked up last nights
paper and lo and behold in the antique and classic section
  "1962 Cutlass, V8 4 speed. '62 Cutlass Convertible, needs restoration.
401-728-2915"
   This is in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, where are you located? If you have
further interest please e-mail me direct and I can check it out for you.

Everett  OCAª 1961
1-401-435-7139

------------------------------

From: Graham Cain <gcain@uvic.ca>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 18:01:50 -0300
Subject: 68

        I own a 1968 Cutlass Supreme with a 442 hood and rear tail lights
along with all the other Supreme crome and decals, but the engine is a six
cylinder. It is a hard top without a/c and has an automatic transmission.
The car was won, as is, at the Calgary Stampede, most likely in 1968, but I
am not positive. The car was provided by Jack Carter Olds in Calgary. I was
hoping you could tell me if this a common configuration and if you have the
production numbers and other technical information, including magazine
write-ups, about this particular car. Any information would be greatly
appreciated.

                                Graham Cain



------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 18:23:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibration

I had the exact vibration problem with my '71 cutlass.  I had the
driveshaft balanced as a last resort.  I had already "wasted" the money
on wheel bearings and wheel balance.  The driveshaft balance was way
off, I guess just from 200,000 of spinning.  Get new u-joint installed
at the same time.  The problem was solved!  Smooth cruising from then
on.

- -greg

------------------------------

From: "Mark Tonazzi" <Mark.Tonazzi.0193171@nt.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 17:29:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Any 85 olds 442 owners?

        Reply to:   RE>Any 85 olds 442 owners?

Dave, I have an 85 442, check out my homepage for pictures/details:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/clint_paul/zugzugs/gnwin1.html

I plan to replace my 307 at around 200K, will probably go with a built
to the hilt 350.

MT
Too many G-cars!!!

- --------------------------------------
Date: 5/14/97 7:05 PM
To: Mark Tonazzi
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Hi, this is Dave K. owner of a 1985 olds 442 if anyone else has
one, or any 442 for that matter feel free to e-mail me.  I am
particularly interested in seeing other 85's but am looking into
dropping a 1970 olds 442 w-30 engine in it. I know its a project and it
would probably just be cheaper buying a 1970 olds, but I hane already
done a lot of work on my 85 I just want the muscle car engine of 1970.
Right now I still have the original 307-cu-in. V8, 4-barrel carburetor,
190 hp.  I am looknig for any advice or suggestions anyone might have
who have some knowledge of engine swapping because I have very little.
I should be able to fit the 455-cu.-in. V8, 4-barrel carburetor with the
amazing 370hp.  But the transmission would most likely need upgrading as
well as maybe some wider tires.
So anyone who has suggestions or would just like to chat about their
cars feel free to drop me a line.
-Dave


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------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 19:15:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

>
>reminds me of a cartoon I saw a few years ago
>
>guy has his engine on a stand, parts scattered across the garage...
>
>he says to his freind "at first I was just gonna change the spark
>plugs......"

Hey Duster,  Ya sure that wasn't me?  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 19:20:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Overheating

> >
> >reminds me of a cartoon I saw a few years ago
> >
> >guy has his engine on a stand, parts scattered across the garage...
> >
> >he says to his freind "at first I was just gonna change the spark
> >plugs......"
>
> Hey Duster,  Ya sure that wasn't me?  :)

That's what happened with my 442.  At first I was gonna put an engine in
it.  But now it's had everything done aside from a frame-off.  GEEZ.  But
it ended up for the better, the car was BAD and it needed every bit of what
I put into it.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 19:57:20 -0300
Subject: Re: 76 Big Block Intake continued

 I still have one of those 950 Holleys!! I've had it for ~15 years.  I
don't
> even know what those came off of originally.  I bought the complete
> carbeurator for $5.00.  At the time I didn't really care what it was b/c
I
> figured any complete holley would be worth that if I only had to use the
> bowl or something.  The carbeurator is really odd looking with the GIANT
> vacuum diaphram and dual feed lines.  What were these carbeurators
> originally used on???
The 3 bbl was not a OEM carb. It was made just for the hot rod crowd. Kinda
like the dominator is now.  I never played with one but on a big block they
were suposed to be pretty impressive. I dont know if holley still has parts
for them or not but I imagine with a little tinkering you could get it to
work. I think the main diference would be in the base plate gasket and the
secondary diaphram.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª677
********************************
