To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #628


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 23 April 1997      Volume 01 : Number 628

Re: I know I shoulda paid attention but....
Re: trunk capacity
Re: White smoke from a '61 215, and replacing it with a 350.
Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
'67 88 window gasket
Re: 61 F-85 suggestions
Re: RPO codes
Re: Prepare to be amazed! (was: 81 cutlass & katana name/rambling)
Re: '67 88 window gasket
Re: A few questions
Re: Fwd: Take a minute to pass this on... (fwd) -Forwarded
Suspension on a 69 Cutlass
Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass
Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers
Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles
Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass
Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass
Re: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles
Re: "NE Olds events" and "Winter...is...Over!!"
Re: Cruise control is toast. . .
I need help identifying a 455 block.
Re: Ft. Wheel Speedo Drive
Re: "Bridge Gauge"
[none]
Re: Leaded gas question
Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass
Re: "NE Olds events" and "Winter...is...Over!!"
Re: I need help identifying a 455 block.
Cutlass/Toro/misc
Re: buick,olds pontiac magazine
Re: 67 Toro Questions
RE: Diff gears rationale
INTAKE PARTª'S

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Frank Gonzalez" <frank@tridentsound.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 14:38:36 -0300
Subject: Re: I know I shoulda paid attention but....

- ----------
> From: Linda Zuccaro <ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: I know I shoulda paid attention but....
> Date: Wednesday, April 23, 1997 7:14 AM
>
>
> Here's the ad, how can I verify this is a *real* one?
>
> 1969 442
> Automatic with rare W30 Ram Air Hood; 12 bolt posi; solid car;
> needs very little work; runs good; $2,700 or bo
> [it's pearl green]
>
> -soft plug is out he mentions - dontcha wonder why???
>
>
> He's taking it to the swap meet this weekend but the SO
> gets to go see it tonight.  Fair price?
>

69 442 dont have a W-30 hood,to verify its a 442 make sure theres a 44 in
the vinª.Price depends on condition.Price sounds about right for average
shape car that doesnt sound like it is all original.Keep us posted.
Frank Gonzalez
70 442
71 442 W30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC

------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 15:01:00 -0300
Subject: Re: trunk capacity

Greg- FYI- the late 80's trunk space for Olds's are as follows--
The 98- 16.4
Cutlass supreme (fwd)- 15.5
Cutlass Ciera- 15.8





=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 14:57:13 -0300
Subject: Re: White smoke from a '61 215, and replacing it with a 350.

At 12:22 PM 4/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I just bought a '61 Olds F-85 with 58K miles, and am having a few problems -
>and a hoot! (limited knowledge of cars here!).

Well, you'll soon learn! If you want anything done right on your car, you'll
have to at least know the details about the car yourself, so you can
double-check the work of whoever you pay to do it for you (unless, of
course, you can find a competent, trusted mechanic who will love and care
for your car as much as you do; unfortunately, there is usually only one
person who fits that description- you!)

>It is smoking what appears to be oil (white smoke) out of both the tailpipe
and >the oil fill cap - it definitely gets worse the warmer the engine is.  Am
I >looking at ring problems?  I checked the blow by pipe, and it is
unobstructed - >clear and no PVC valve.

Oil smoke is blue. Unfortunately, coolant is white (though tranny fluid can
be as well). Have the cooling-system pressure-tested, and check the
compression of the engine; if you're lucky, you've only blown a head-gasket.
If you have, however, you've also likely warped a head. Luckily for you,
this engine is still used (BMC/Rover bought the rights to it, and have been
installing it in everything that could use a V-8, including their upscale
Range Rovers), so there are still plenty of parts available!

>If it is rings, I was thinking it may be better for me to drop in a new
engine. >It currently has a 215 V8 aluminum block.  Someone suggested an Olds
350 might >bolt right up - any ideas if this is the way I should go, and if
so, what >engine I should be looking for?  Something a bit more common than
the 215 would >be ideal.

The 215 aluminum V-8 was used by Olds and Buick in the '61-'63 era, but has
more in common with the Buick line of motors (V-6 and small V-8). Though the
Olds 350 might bolt to the bellhousing, I'm certain that the motor mounts
would be entirely different. OTOH, a Buick 300, 340 or 350 would likely
share the same engine mounts and bellhousing pattern, since they're in the
same engine "family", of sorts.

Even if it is a cracked block, I'd say stick with the original engine! This
is a unique car, and since there were enough made, you should be able to
find enough parts to bring it back to 100% health. Go for it!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 15:07:25 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers

>[...] I need help on removing the grills.  I know that someone
>told me how to do this last year on my 85 Cutlass, but I never got
>around to doing it.  If someone could help me out it would be greatly
>appreciated.

Uhhh... (scratches head) Unless there are screw heads visible on the two
rear corners of each grille (forget if the Cutlass had 'em or not), I'd
say they're held in place by the World's Nastiest Spring Clips (tm), the
same light-blue kind that hold the dash faceplates on. Basically you get
a blunt instrument underneath the edge and just pry 'em out. Be careful
to not break the surrounding material that you're leaning on.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

From: Nathan Fonder <nfonder@atl.mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 15:43:39 -0300
Subject: '67 88 window gasket

Two days ago, I bought a convertible 1967 Delta 88 with a 455 Super Rocket.
When it rains and I turn a corner, water seeps in along the windshield.  I
have access to a window gasket for a 1967 442 and a 1967 Cutlass.  Will this
fit the Delta?

------------------------------

From: JPADA@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 16:05:14 -0300
Subject: Re: 61 F-85 suggestions


Glenn wrote:

I just bought a '61 Olds F-85 with 58K miles, and am having a few problems -
and a hoot! (limited knowledge of cars here!).

     Congrats on the new acquisition.  These are neat little cars and quite
     uncommon.

It is smoking what appears to be oil (white smoke) out of both the tailpipe
and the oil fill cap - it definitely gets worse the warmer the engine is.  Am
I looking at ring problems?  I checked the blow by pipe, and it is
unobstructed - clear and no PVC valve.

     Unfortunately, it does sound like oil burning.  I assume that the white
     smoke is a heavy bluish white oil smoke and not the wispy pure white
     indicative of water vapor.  I suggest you perform a compression check or,

     even better, a leakdown test to determine whether it is rings or valve
     guides.  One easy way to check with a compression tester is to run the
     compression check dry (recording the levels), then to squirt oil in each
     cylinder and check compression again.  If the readings go up appreciably,

     the rings are weak (the rationale is that the oil you squirted in the
     cylinder effectively sealed the rings during the compression check); if
the
     readings do not improve, then the problem is the valve guides.

If it is rings, I was thinking it may be better for me to drop in a new
engine. It currently has a 215 V8 aluminum block.  Someone suggested an Olds
350 might bolt right up - any ideas if this is the way I should go, and if
so, what engine I should be looking for?  Something a bit more common than
the 215 would be ideal.

     The aluminum 215 (which I happen to feel is a cool little motor, even if
     it does have less than 400 cubic inches) was designed by Buick and has
     more in common with the Buick V6 than any Olds motor.  In fact, the
     original version of the V6, in 198 cu in form, was optional in this car.

     The main problem is that the 215 uses a unique transmission bolt pattern,

     which is unlike than on any other GM engine.  Assuming that your car has
     an automatic, any engine swap will require a matching transmission as
     well.  This is not the case with the 4-spd, where you will only require
     the correct bellhousing.  In addition, the 215 only weighs about 305 lbs,

     while a 350 Olds tips the scales at about 590 lbs.  This will require
     different front springs, a difficult thing to find for the 61-63 cars.

     My suggestion would be to rebuild the 215.  There are two or three
     companies out there which specialize in this motor.  The coolest thing
     (and probably fairly expensive, unfortunately) would be to up the
     displacement.  At least one of the 215 specialists (my Hemmings is at
     home, otherwise I'd provide phone numbers) markets steel sleeves and
     pistons which, in addition to a crank from the Buick 300 cu in cast iron
     V8, will provide you with a 5 liter (or, in your case, litre)
     displacement.

     This larger engine will quickly waste your original automatic
     transmission.  Fortunately, there are adapter plates available to convert

     to a TH350 (which you were trying to avoid doing the in the first place).

     ;)

Thanks!

     You're welcome.

     Joe Padavano
     jpada@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30





------------------------------

From: FBS3@oas.psu.edu (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 15:48:00 -0300
Subject: Re: RPO codes

Peter- the rpo's you did not get are--
799- ruby red seats
79C- ruby red interior trim
J41- power disc front and cast iron drum rear brakes





=============================================================================
FRank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon sedan..K&N, dohc exhaust..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 16:33:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Prepare to be amazed! (was: 81 cutlass & katana name/rambling)

At 12:36 PM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
> A year ago (I think, maybe two), there was a Suzuki GSX-R1100 which I think
>had been bored out, turbo, etc., that put out 50 rear wheel HP (remember one
                                               ^^
Hmmmm, not all that impressive; do you mean _500_ hp? If that's the case,
I'd *hope* he doesn't get too much traction from the rear tire; it's be hard
to keep the front tire down, I'd imagine. One quick twist of the wrist, and
the bike would do one heck of an imitation of a 500lb mousetrap! (THWAP!)

>1400, or so cc.'s).  There has also been a Kawasaki Ninja 1100 that was bored
>also I think, with turbo, etc. also, that put out 450 rear wheel HP.
> Remember one other thing, these bikes are street capable, lights signals,
>etc, and are cafe style.  Outrageous when you look at what they can do, and
>both those bike would run up to approx. 12-15,000 RPM, or os in doing this.

Man, I'd imagine these things would give you more opportunities to turn
yourself into a smudge in the road than anything else you can build or buy.
(any of these guys ever show up in the Darwin Awards? NO, don't start *that*
thread!)

Olds-content: I'll gladly take any of those bikes on in head-to-head combat
with my Toro. Side-by-side, they'd pull away from me with ten times my
power/weight ratio, but head to head I've got ten times the mass... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 16:32:56 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 88 window gasket

At 02:43 PM 4/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Two days ago, I bought a convertible 1967 Delta 88 with a 455 Super Rocket.
>When it rains and I turn a corner, water seeps in along the windshield.  I
>have access to a window gasket for a 1967 442 and a 1967 Cutlass.  Will this
>fit the Delta?

The Delta is wider, so if the Cutlass gasket fit at all, it wouldn't fit
very well (i.e. you'd have more leaks).

Congratulations on the purchase, in any case! BTW, what happened to the
original 425? Which year is your 455 from? (they didn't start making them
until 1968)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 16:44:42 -0300
Subject: Re: A few questions

On Tue, 22 Apr 1997, Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

>
> I am a little jealous since I am not driving my 442 at this time as
> some on you on the list.  It is making me sad and depressed.  :-(
>
dont feel alone on that both my '72 buick and my '68 olds are currently
out of commision, due to finances (dented '89) I'm probably another
year&1/2 from running either one

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:48:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Fwd: Take a minute to pass this on... (fwd) -Forwarded

Douglas Hampton wrote:
>
> This email has been circulating for years...it is a hoax...  Disregard
> it.

Then why keep sending it?

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 17:21:22 -0300
Subject: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass

From: Michael Baugher on 04/23/97 03:21 PM

     Hi all,

      I just took my Cutlass to Midas for a front-end check.  It was riding
a little rough.
      I was shown bad springs (someone had put support blocks in the left
one).
      I was also shown the original upper ball joints, mounted with the
original
      rivets.  They are still good, but the rubber boots are torn, so they
need replaced.
      I was told that the boots aren't available by themselves and I'm sure
those old
      joints are ready for a replacement anyway.

     My question:  Is putting on new springs, shock absorbers, and upper
ball joints
      a job that I should attempt to tackle on my own?  I've seen
aftermarket ball joints
      in Year One's catalog for about $22 each and a local parts store has
springs for
      a 69 cutlass with a/c and a 350, so they seem to know which springs I
need.  They're
      only $60 for the pair.  Midas wanted $78 per ball joint including
      installation and another $250 or so to put in springs and shocks.

     Any suggestions?

------------------------------

From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 17:42:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass

>     My question:  Is putting on new springs, shock absorbers, and upper
>ball joints
>      a job that I should attempt to tackle on my own?  I've seen
>aftermarket ball joints
>     Any suggestions?

If you want a very big headache try the job yourself...keep in mind the
front coil springs are very dangerous, but if you have the right tools it
could be done safely. i would suggest trying a reputable local mechanic
those prices seem a little high as you have seen from teh comparasion to
the local parts stores.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:36:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Speakers

     These aren't too hard to get out, just go slow and be patient.
     They're held on by little metal clips.  I use my 1" gasket scraper to
     pry them up, a screwdriver could work, but the 1" scraper spreads the
     force out over a bigger area.  Do this when the dash is warm so that
     it's pliable, when removing the speakers from my '79 in the dead of
     winter (to put the factory ones back, I was selling the car) I cracked
     my dash because it was too cold.

     Once you pry them up, I think you kind of have to turn them at a funny
     angle to get them out from under the windshield.  Don't force 'em,
     they will come out if turned the right way.  I hope you have a _small_
     1/4" drive socket since there isn't much room to get in there to
     remove the bolts holding the speaker in.

     Last comment:  Don't cheap out on the front speakers.  These are the
     ones that you hear the most.  Get some good quality ones, the Pioneer
     are probably okay, I haven't heard them.

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: 1987 Cutlass Speakers Author:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at INTERNET Date:    4/22/97 9:26 PM

Pioneer 4X10's that I took out of my old car.  Now, the rear sounds great, but
 the front are distorting somewhat.  I plan on ordering a pair of Pioneer
 3 1/2's this summer, but I need help on removing the grills.  I know that
someone told me how to do this last year on my 85 Cutlass, but I never got
around to doing it.  If someone could help me out it would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks.
    Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu



------------------------------

From: r_mullen@Merck.Com (R Mullen)
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 17:56:00 -0300
Subject: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles

A friend gave me a copy of an early '68 CARS magazine.  There was an
article in their about Markowitz (sp?) Olds, which apparently was part
of the Baldwin/Motion outfit on Long Island.  The areticle was all about
their 1968 "Mach 1"  Baldwin/Motion W31 Cutlass.

Apparently, according to the full-page advertisement that was in the
magazine after the article, along with 427 Camaros, Motion also offered
a 455 Cutlass, the "Mach 1" W31, a "Ram-Lux" Toronado and a hopped-up
W30 442!  I have never heard of these cars and don't know how many were
made.  I would not have believed any of it if I hadn't seen the whole
thing in print.  I guess that Hurst was not the only one offering a 455
in the '68 A-body.  According to the ad, all of these cars were dyno
tuned and carried a warranty!

The article was only about the '68 W31, which was modified with milled
heads, adjustable valve train, headers, Mallory distributor and 4.33
gears.  The car was turning 12.80's with Baldwin's driver, using
4000-5000 rpm launches.  When it was tested by the magazine, the
blow-proof bell housing had been removed, so 3000-4000 rpm launches were
used.  The car was still turning 13.30's at 106 mph.  Kind of puts the
Hurst Olds to shame.  I only wish they had tested the 455 Cutlass.

Anyhow, I was delighted to learn this new fact, and wonder if anyone
else had heard of a Motion Oldsmobile?  Would it be possible to add this
article to the ones at Bryce's page?

Scott Mullen

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 18:04:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>
> From: Michael Baugher on 04/23/97 03:21 PM
>
>      Hi all,
>
>       I just took my Cutlass to Midas for a front-end check.  It was riding
> a little rough.
>       I was shown bad springs (someone had put support blocks in the left
> one).
>       I was also shown the original upper ball joints, mounted with the
> original
>       rivets.  They are still good, but the rubber boots are torn, so they
> need replaced.
>       I was told that the boots aren't available by themselves and I'm sure
> those old
>       joints are ready for a replacement anyway.
>
>      My question:  Is putting on new springs, shock absorbers, and upper
> ball joints
>       a job that I should attempt to tackle on my own?  I've seen
> aftermarket ball joints
>       in Year One's catalog for about $22 each and a local parts store has
> springs for
>       a 69 cutlass with a/c and a 350, so they seem to know which springs I
> need.  They're
>       only $60 for the pair.  Midas wanted $78 per ball joint including
>       installation and another $250 or so to put in springs and shocks.
>
>      Any suggestions?


I suggest, and I'm assuming you don't care about originality, that you
purchase your components at a local auto parts place.  They are cheaper
than Midas, and if you want to make sure you have good parts, I suggest
a place such as NAPA.  Western Auto has good parts too, if you like Moog
or TRW brands.  It is of course up to you if you want to tackle this job
by yourself.  You can do it, but get a good spring compressor, jack
stands, pickle fork for ball joints and tie-rod ends, and plenty of
penetrating fluid.  Also, with the riveted ball joints, you will have to
drill the rivets, and all aftermarket ball joints that I know of are
designed for bolt-in mounting. (They include the bolts for the original
holes) You might as well get the bushings for the A-arms too, if you are
going that far.  It is really NOT all that difficult, but if you are
strapped for time, find a place that you trust that would install your
parts and just charge you for labor.  The Midas price is a bit steep,
but then, Midas always is.

My $0.02

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 06:19:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>
> From: Michael Baugher on 04/23/97 03:21 PM
>
>      Hi all,
>
>       I just took my Cutlass to Midas for a front-end check.  It was riding
> a little rough.
>       I was shown bad springs (someone had put support blocks in the left
> one).
>       I was also shown the original upper ball joints, mounted with the
> original
>       rivets.  They are still good, but the rubber boots are torn, so they
> need replaced.
>       I was told that the boots aren't available by themselves and I'm sure
> those old
>       joints are ready for a replacement anyway.
>
>      My question:  Is putting on new springs, shock absorbers, and upper
> ball joints
>       a job that I should attempt to tackle on my own?  I've seen
> aftermarket ball joints
>       in Year One's catalog for about $22 each and a local parts store has
> springs for
>       a 69 cutlass with a/c and a 350, so they seem to know which springs I
> need.  They're
>       only $60 for the pair.  Midas wanted $78 per ball joint including
>       installation and another $250 or so to put in springs and shocks.
>
>      Any suggestions?

Micheal,

Those prices from Midas do seem high...but with the cost of labor these
days, it's hard to tell.  I've rebuilt the front ends on a '66 Mustang
and a '37 Chevy Street Rod (w/Mustang II front end).  I currently own a
'69 Cutlass S.  As for the difficulty of doin it yourself, I cannot
stress enough the importance of safe handling of the spring.  A proper
spring compressor is a MUST.  And you must use all the safety plates,
etc. on the tool.  These may typically be rented at a nominal fee from
your local parts house.

The rest of it is simply a matter of being careful to do the job
right.  Use good, high-quality parts, and don't take short-cuts.  This
is one place where you can't afford to cut corners.  But the mechanicals
of it are well within the ability of a hobbiest.  Use the correct torque
specs and any special tools called for (ie, Pitman Arm Puller, spring
compressor, etc.)  The job is messy (wear old clothes), and try counting
treads on the tie rod ends, etc, to try and get the allignment at least
close to right so as not to shred your tires when taking it to the
alignment shop.

I hope this has been of some help to you.  If there is anything else I
can do, just let me know!

John Ramsey
'69 Olds Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 18:53:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles

I've heard of these guys, but didn't know they did any Olds.  They
don't do performance parts any more, though.  they make aftermarket body
panels now.  Mostly ground effects, wings and hoods.  I have one of their
catalogs and I'm trying to save for their twin turbo hood for g-body
Cutlasses.  I think they also repro the '83 H/O front air dam.  Other than
that not too much stuff for Olds.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 18:55:36 -0300
Subject: Re: "NE Olds events" and "Winter...is...Over!!"

On Tue, 22 Apr 1997, Robert Barry wrote:

> Who's interested? I'll collect a list of names, and we can take this off
> list if enough people are interested.
>
>
Count me in for some time before May 17.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Barnacle Bill <wreilly@acad.bryant.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:02:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Cruise control is toast. . .

On Wed, 23 Apr 1997, Tom Lentz wrote:

>
>      2)  What's the name of the shop manual I need?  A chassis manual?  Can
>      anyone recommend a particular source?
>
Tom,
My '85 Cutlass Chassis manual has a section outlining the cruise control.
Also maybe the electrical system service suppliment would be of use also.
Try Al Sandy I paid $60 for my cassis manual and the electrical is $30.
Al's ª is(609) 858-0248  he's in NJ and call after 1pm.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: ross kreinbrink <r-kreinbrink@onu.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 22:11:13 -0300
Subject: I need help identifying a 455 block.

I own a 70' 442 W-30, but I can't find any identification ª's on the 455
block anywhere. The car is a true W-30 but I don't know what the engine
is. The only identification that I have for the engine are the head ª's.
The heads are stamped G(A), which would be from a 72 high performance
455. If anyone can figure out any reasons why the block does't have any
identification ª's I would greatly appreciate it.

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:14:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Ft. Wheel Speedo Drive

Will post to list when task is complete. I think Daren is also attemting
something like this. My intention is to see if I can not just rip the speedo
cable out of a junked caddy or some such and use that. One possibility for
failure; gage - wheel distance may be considerably longer than gauge-tranny
distance. Will keep all inormed.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Better hurry up and fix it, I am getting 0 MPG! ;)

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:43:22 -0300
Subject: Re: "Bridge Gauge"

- ----------
> I've always seen a steel rule with a 90' "T" on it (the part that has the
> pocket clip on it) used for this procedure.  This can measure the valve
> spring installed height and the valve stem height also.  This can be used
to
> keep them all identically loaded, but I'm not sure if head resurfacing
would
> affect the specs noticably.
>Your method will work just fine. The book gives a .030 range for most
engines so you dont have to be perfect. . After you get a bit older that
steel rule gets a bit harder to read. Thats why I like to use a dial
caliper. Resurfaceing the head only affects stem height. To compensate for
it multiply the amount removed by the rocker ratio. If a lot is removed you
will need shorter pushrods or rocker arm shims because you cant take enough
off the stem.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:44:24 -0300
Subject: [none]

On Wed, 23 Apr 1997, Robert Barry wrote:
>
> Man, I'd imagine these things would give you more opportunities to turn
> yourself into a smudge in the road than anything else you can build or buy.
> (any of these guys ever show up in the Darwin Awards? NO, don't start *that*
> thread!)

During a moment of severe stupidity  I dumped mine between 50 or 60 mph
I was wearing jeans and a leather jacket (no helmet), I beat up my knees
and ruined my jeans and cowboy boots but mostly was I was unharmed

> Olds-content: I'll gladly take any of those bikes on in head-to-head combat
> with my Toro. Side-by-side, they'd pull away from me with ten times my
> power/weight ratio, but head to head I've got ten times the mass... :)

I'll decline on the head-to-head toro vs bike   thanks for the offer

Dustin

------------------------------

From: "Steve Bento" <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 22:58:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaded gas question

- ----------
> At 04:00 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >> >Both are $4.00/gallon. I think I'll go hang out there on a Sat. night
and
> >>
> >> You've got a heck of a life there, Bob.  Do you routinely go to gas
> >> stations and watch people pump their gas?  :)
> >
> >This beats sitting outside watching your snow grow or the frost making
> >pretty designs on the windows.  Cabin feaver can be devastating.
>
> If it's sunny and above 40', we consider it a "beach-day".
>
> About watching the gas pumps...
>
> The rumor has it that there's some pretty serious street-racing in this
> area, but you never see anything hotter than a mid-80's IROC with the
stupid
> skateboard wheels around here. Until I saw these gas pumps, I discounted
> these rumors, but I don't think they'd have these pumps if nobody ever
> bought the stuff. So I figure they must only come out at night, and I'd be
> like Marlin Perkins behind some bushes with a nightscope, trying to see
> these rare beasts.
>
Oh yes, there is some VERY serious street racing going on in that area.. I
know a guy who is big into that scene down there, his current ride is an
mid 11 sec 5.0 Capri, and he has had a string of 11 &12 second cars over
the 10 years he has been doing this... Its kinda scary when you think of
it, I mean I have seen his Capri turn 115 mph at the dragway with DOT
street slicks and to think this car on occasion gets beat on the street!!!
That means some of these street racers have low 11 and some 10 sec cars!!!
And since these races go on late at night into the morning hours on the
weekend I can only  imagine the damage if some drunk driver or heck just a
tired driver got into an accident with these guys, SCARY!!!!!

> Of course, after a day at work, and putting the baby down to bed, I don't
> usually say to my wife "OK, honey, I'm going to go bet $3,000 that I can
get
> to 130mph on a narrown side-street faster than some stranger who might be
> carrying a gun. Do you want me to pick up some milk on the way home?"
(BTW,
> these pumps are in the "low-rent" district of the city, so we don't pass
> them by all that often)
>
> I think I'll restrict my racing to the track; probably safer in a number
of
> respects.

I couldn't agree with you more Bob, definetly much safer and you get to
find out what your car really runs!!!

_____________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------


>

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 19:56:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Suspension on a 69 Cutlass

At 06:19 AM 4/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>try counting
>treads on the tie rod ends, etc, to try and get the allignment at least
>close to right so as not to shred your tires when taking it to the
>alignment shop.
>

Another method, which has worked well for me, is to measure the toe-in
before the work is started with two dowels (or what ever substitute you have
handy) and a couple of hose clamps. The dowels need to be long enough to
overlap by about 18" when each end of the *device* is on a rim bead. With
the wheels straight, place the ends on the front rim beads at the height of
the hub and clamp the dowels together. Then you can either wiggle the device
out or mark a reference point on the dowels, loosen the clamps and slide the
dowels together for easy removal. When the work is done and the front end is
back together adjust the tie rod to a toe-out state. Then, use device to
determine the correct distance as you adjust the tie rod back in.

If you have not messed with the caster your car might not need an alignment.
I recommend finding a place that will do a free check before they begin the
alignment process. I use NTW.

Good Luck!
Ray (Oops? What do you mean oops?)
70 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

From: "Steve Bento" <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 23:02:50 -0300
Subject: Re: "NE Olds events" and "Winter...is...Over!!"

- ----------
> At 08:00 AM 4/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Once again, folks like Dr. Bob in RI, Steve Bento on the North Shore,
> >and other New Englanders (including Yours Truly) have survived another
> >winter.
> >
> >Yesterday, we celebrated it by running a marathon from Hopkinton to
Boston;
> >and I observed the end of winter by putting away the snowblower.
>
> Wow; it's only April 21! You're living on the edge these days, aren't
you...
> ;)
>
> >And waking up Big Red :) :) :)
>
> Did you leave the snowtires on her still?
>
> Maybe we "snowmen" could get together in the coming weeks; June 1 at
> Berejik's seems too far away! How about some weekend in early May? Perhaps
> someplace in the Rt.128 region around Boston? Or perhaps a run out to
> Fusick's? I know; we can all lend Everett Horton a hand with the two
> trailerfuls of NOS stuff he bought from Hall's- if we buy it, you won't
have
> to catalog it, right Everett? :)  Or maybe swarm over those parts cars of
> Everett's (I'm *sure* Bud would appreciate *that*!).
>
> Who's interested? I'll collect a list of names, and we can take this off
> list if enough people are interested.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>
> Bob,

I would be interested, anytime after May 9 would be good for me...

Keep me posted!!!

Thanks.....

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
e-mail: steveb@thecia.net
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 20:05:10 -0300
Subject: Re: I need help identifying a 455 block.

At 10:11 PM 4/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>If anyone can figure out any reasons why the block does't have any
>identification ª's I would greatly appreciate it.
>

I'm sorry to say that removing engine IDª's is usually the work of a thief
or charlatan.

Ray
70 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

From: James William Townsend <jwt7@dana.ucc.nau.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 20:22:02 -0300
Subject: Cutlass/Toro/misc

I just wanted to relate a little story to you guys.

Last night I went out for a midnite snack (dinner, actually) at Subway,
and I parked behind a 1970(I think) Cutlass.  It was white, very clean and
looked to be in great shape.  Haven't seen a car that nice looking in a
long time!  The driver was walking away when I pulled up so I wasn't able
to talk to him.  It was nice to see such a sharp car among all
the Accords, CRX's, etc.  It really stood out.
Anyway...

I've never owned or driven a Toronado, but all this talk about people
buying them and being infected with The Virus is making me feel left out!!
Anybody got an extra Toro you want to give away? :)

By the way, when I was talking about the bike horsepower champ having
about 160hp, I was talking about unmodified, factory bikes.  Not hot rods.
And the magazine I got the info from was my roommates, from last year.

If you want a little encouragement about the American automobile and
how it stacks up against the World, y'all should check out the latest
Motor Trend. It features a "shootout" with many of the world's exotic
sports cars.  Though it's not an Olds, I'm very pleased to announce that
the Viper absolutely destroyed everything in its path! (Yes, the Corvette
was there too)  That includes the
very highly-revered all-wheel-drive 911 twin turbo, Ferrari F355, Supra,
NSX, etc.
How about a fuel-injected, BIG aluminum V10 that runs from zero
to 170mph in 30 seconds?  Or the quarter-mile in 12.2 seconds at nearly
120mph?  Too bad Dodge is the only one willing to make something like
this.  What if Olds (or ANY American company) brought back their big V8's?
(Modernized, of course!)  These shootouts would end up being among the
American cars only!
The Vette did 13.2 at nearly 110mph in the 1/4, but faired poorly in the
track-time section of the test.  Apparently this was because the car kept
trying to spin in the corners due to all that torque.
Nothing like the big, American V-engine, huh?
(Talk about bike engines: the Ferrari's little 213ci V8 makes it's 375hp
at 8200rpm, and redlines at 8800! Breathing through five valves/cylinder!)

Well, hope this was a little encouraging to you all.  Just a few years ago
it seemed an American car was doing well just to hold its own in these
comparisons.  But, all those turboed wonder-sixes just didn't have it this
time!

Have a great day, all!

    Jim Townsend

------------------------------

From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 14:41:42 -0300
Subject: Re: buick,olds pontiac magazine

- ----------
> From: Robert Bishop <rbishop@iamerica.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: buick,olds pontiac magazine
> Date: Wednesday, April 23, 1997 12:42 AM
>
> At 08:51 PM 4/22/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >i,m looking for a copy of buick,olds pontiac collectors guide monthly
> >6/1993  with a cutlass sx on the front  at the top of the front page
> >INDY PACE CAR MANIA
> >
> >
> >THANK YOU
> >MICHAEL POOLE
> >1970 CUTLASS SX W-32
> >
> >
> >
> Michael, the magazine was printed by a company called MCG Publishing's in
> Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Their phone number (as of June 93) was (504)
926-6954.
>
> It is possible they printed other magazines, and might be still in
business,
> Give them a call to inquire for a back issue.
>
> By the way, there is also an excellent article on another 70 SX in the
> November 1987 issue of MUSCLECARS. This particular SX was also featured
in a
> small clipping in Hot Rod magazine. If you can't find it, let me know and
> I'll send you a copy off my copy machine of the article.
>
> MCG stands for M*par Collector's Guide, and they do still publish. The
BOP Collector's Guide was previously just Pontiac Collector's Guide and
they switched to BOP, then went away. Too bad, I like this mag and still
read MCG (sue me) ;)

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@leba.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 20:39:24 -0300
Subject: Re: 67 Toro Questions

On Wed, 23 Apr 1997, Christian Fair wrote:

> The tilt & tele was new for 66 according to my "new" sales manuals and
> available on 88's, 98's and Toros. I have one in my 98 now and one that
> works better from a 66 Toro that I'm planning to transplant one of these
> weekends. Not sure this wheel was available on the 67's since they went
> to safety knobs due to federal regs that year. Maybe on the toros since
> they were unusual, but I think that tilt wheel changed for 67 in the
> 88s and 98s.
> cf

Tilt/Tele was still available in '67, for Toros and 88s and 98s.  They
switched all three to a three spoke design with a padded center.

Paul Hartlieb
plh@leba.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe (Aquamarine)
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (Sunfire Yellow)

------------------------------

From: "Aaron R. Weimer" <aweimer@ameritech.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 20:38:43 -0300
Subject: RE: Diff gears rationale

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amount of torque be better
off with a lower gear ratio?

Anxious to learn the ABC's of differential gears.


Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago,IL

Yes, as horspower/torque increase you would lower you gear.  An engine =
with 2000 hp and about 2000LB of torque would want to run about a 2.65:1 =
or even lower.  There are many combos of rear end gears.  The only =
thing, don't red line before the finish line!!

Aaron

1972 442 W30

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------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 20:54:29 -0300
Subject: INTAKE PARTª'S

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ok guys, here are the part numbers for Big Block olds,

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